Skip to main content

Full text of "Guide to Spain & Portugal : including the Balearic Islands"

See other formats 


Google 


This  is  a  digital  copy  of  a  book  that  was  preserved  for  generations  on  library  shelves  before  it  was  carefully  scanned  by  Google  as  part  of  a  project 

to  make  the  world's  books  discoverable  online. 

It  has  survived  long  enough  for  the  copyright  to  expire  and  the  book  to  enter  the  public  domain.  A  public  domain  book  is  one  that  was  never  subject 

to  copyright  or  whose  legal  copyright  term  has  expired.  Whether  a  book  is  in  the  public  domain  may  vary  country  to  country.  Public  domain  books 

are  our  gateways  to  the  past,  representing  a  wealth  of  history,  culture  and  knowledge  that's  often  difficult  to  discover. 

Marks,  notations  and  other  maiginalia  present  in  the  original  volume  will  appear  in  this  file  -  a  reminder  of  this  book's  long  journey  from  the 

publisher  to  a  library  and  finally  to  you. 

Usage  guidelines 

Google  is  proud  to  partner  with  libraries  to  digitize  public  domain  materials  and  make  them  widely  accessible.  Public  domain  books  belong  to  the 
public  and  we  are  merely  their  custodians.  Nevertheless,  this  work  is  expensive,  so  in  order  to  keep  providing  tliis  resource,  we  liave  taken  steps  to 
prevent  abuse  by  commercial  parties,  including  placing  technical  restrictions  on  automated  querying. 
We  also  ask  that  you: 

+  Make  non-commercial  use  of  the  files  We  designed  Google  Book  Search  for  use  by  individuals,  and  we  request  that  you  use  these  files  for 
personal,  non-commercial  purposes. 

+  Refrain  fivm  automated  querying  Do  not  send  automated  queries  of  any  sort  to  Google's  system:  If  you  are  conducting  research  on  machine 
translation,  optical  character  recognition  or  other  areas  where  access  to  a  large  amount  of  text  is  helpful,  please  contact  us.  We  encourage  the 
use  of  public  domain  materials  for  these  purposes  and  may  be  able  to  help. 

+  Maintain  attributionTht  GoogXt  "watermark"  you  see  on  each  file  is  essential  for  in  forming  people  about  this  project  and  helping  them  find 
additional  materials  through  Google  Book  Search.  Please  do  not  remove  it. 

+  Keep  it  legal  Whatever  your  use,  remember  that  you  are  responsible  for  ensuring  that  what  you  are  doing  is  legal.  Do  not  assume  that  just 
because  we  believe  a  book  is  in  the  public  domain  for  users  in  the  United  States,  that  the  work  is  also  in  the  public  domain  for  users  in  other 
countries.  Whether  a  book  is  still  in  copyright  varies  from  country  to  country,  and  we  can't  offer  guidance  on  whether  any  specific  use  of 
any  specific  book  is  allowed.  Please  do  not  assume  that  a  book's  appearance  in  Google  Book  Search  means  it  can  be  used  in  any  manner 
anywhere  in  the  world.  Copyright  infringement  liabili^  can  be  quite  severe. 

About  Google  Book  Search 

Google's  mission  is  to  organize  the  world's  information  and  to  make  it  universally  accessible  and  useful.   Google  Book  Search  helps  readers 
discover  the  world's  books  while  helping  authors  and  publishers  reach  new  audiences.  You  can  search  through  the  full  text  of  this  book  on  the  web 

at|http: //books  .google  .com/I 


HARVARD 
COLLEGE 
LI  BRARY 


o 


GUIDE 


I 


lO 


SPAIN    &   PORTUGAL 


INCLUDING  THE  BALEABIO  ISLANDS 


BT  HENBT  O'SHEA 


/< 


EDINBUBOH :  ADAM  &  CHABLES  BLACK 

LONDON :  LONGMANS  &  CO. 

1876 


\finttndalSlatmitri  HM.    K([Ut/'TramUt$*»mtrvtd.} 


T^(:3-  v^ 


V^  SlS   .1,^ 


PREFACE  TO  THIRD  EDITION. 


I  OAMNOT  better  express  my  gratitude  for  the  very  fkvoarable 
manner  in  which  it  has  pleased  the  travelling  public  to  receive 
the  former  editions  of  this  book,  than  by  endeavouring  to 
improve  its  contents,  so  as  to  make  it  worthier  still  of  their 
acceptance.  With  this  view,  a  concise,  but  I  trust  useful, 
description  of  Portugal  has  been  added,  as  well  as  an  account 
of  the  Balearic  Islands. 

Numerous  plans  of  dties,  groimd-plans,  railway  charts  and 
maps— all  drawn  up  with  the  greatest  care,  and  expressly  for 
this  Guide— have  been  introduced  to  illustrate  the  text  New 
toura  and  routes  have  been  inserted,  and  travelling  information 
carefully  corrected  up  to  the  date  of  publication. 

I  am  hi^py  to  have  this  opportunity  of  thanlring  my  nume- 
rous correspondents  for  their  obliging  communications,  which  have 
often  proved  ot  value  to  my  work. 

H.  O'SIIEA. 
BiAaarn,  AprU  SO,  1868. 

PJS. — Smoe  the  above  was  written,  a  fourth  editicm  hanng  been 
etUed  for,  I  have  taken  the  opportunity  of  carefully  levisiiig  my  Quids 
and  making  certain  amendments  that  I  hope  will  be  found  useful  to 
the  trnvellfls; 

MnMrySe,180a 


OONTBNTa 


OmnMAL  l9voBMA^no»--TteTdUiig---Hotels---Anliiteetiir«,  eta.     Figw  I 

Pige 

ALQAiii  (de  Henirat)  1 

AHoute 6 

AliHidwi    .....  18 

Ahneik 14 

Andalnda 16 


Aiag«Ni  (Spanish  Pywnaw) 
Amgnei  .  .  .  . 
Astarits  .  .  .  . 
ATilm        .        .        .        . 


18 
20 
24 
28 


Balbabio  IsLAMiM ;  we  Fklma. 
BtroeloiiiA .  .  •  •  . 
Basque  PtotIiioss 

mOmo 

Bugos 


Ci( 

Osdis 

Owtagena  .        . 

Gwtaes  (New  sad  Old) 

Gsftsliifis loe 


81 
68 

68 
68 

88 

91 

108 

105 


G^on 

GnaadA  and  Alhamlifa 

Gimiga  (U) 


Oufdofa 
ConiAa(La) 


SsoomiAi* 


110 
122 

128 
144 


Gauoia    •       •       •  '    •       .145 
QitoBlte 149 


Lion 


Mad&id    . 

CUaalt . 

Histocy  . 

Hotdt   . 

GeoenJ  Dcjcripdon  . 

RoyalPidftM  . 

Amouiy 

PSctnre-Oallery 

UttUcty  01  SculpluiQ  • 

Minor  Pfictiire-Galkiiet 

PriinUe  Galleries 


Public  BoildiniS 
StreetSy  etc 
Tbealree,  bnU-ringa, 


Malaga 
Muroia 

Katahbb 
OnxDO 


eziT 

Pft8« 

150 
161 
200 

210 

215 

242 


S67 
S68 

ISO 


987 
S70 
187 
887 


S91 


Ml 
808 


806 
820 

827 
880 


vm 


S41 


Ml 


tn 


09 


V 


OS 
)     417 

414 


FOBTUQAL 


ti$ 


0 


ii7 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


JM^rtiMM. 


841 


41 
170 
SM 
111 
876 
687 


Qcoderal  Hap  of  Spain  and  Portugal 

BaUAHO  IfLAJOW 

Flana  of  Towns— 
Babgbloha 
Obaxida 
Kadbid 
ILllaoa 
Sbtillb 

liltBOW 

Oxonnd-Flana— 

BuBoos  Cathxdkal    . 
ThbAlhambba 

PnTOBB-OALLKKT  (MaD&ID)    . 

KAILWAY  OHABTa 

Madrid  to  Toledo^  AlUoete^  Alioante»  Umdti,  CkhMgm^  and 

y«leooia ^ 

Madrid  and  BflbM  to  Zungon,  Lend*,  and  BwodanA  81 

Madrid  to  Oofdora^  Seville  and  Gadix,  and  Mali^  and  Gianada    91 

Great  Kotthern  Raflwajp^-tem  the  Freneh  fitmtiflr  to  Madrid      842 

Meditenaaean  Line— Barcelona  to  Oerona»  Tingoat,  Vaka- 

eia,  and  Alieante  ,47, 

Madrid  to  Bad^  UaboD.  aad  Oporto  .     m 


70 
178 
S70 


TnicUiii(,  b. 

WiDciKr. 


TrftvaUlnc  In  Spain:  Hints. 
Whut  to  nuTU. — ^Ilie  beat  MaMnu  of  the  yvu  for  tnTelling  in  Spun 
m  Hitanim  or  winter  in  the  South  ;  ipiing  in  the  OeDtre  and  East ;  nod 
nnnnier  in  die  North  and  Weet.  Awr^^liirri^  «nd  Cutile,  Tklendk  and 
Eiinmadnn,  mutt  not  be  thonght  of  in  innuner,  ae  the  he*t  ie  then  in- 
lolmable,  and  riding  out  of  the  qneetion.  In  irinttff,  Malaga,  Alicante, 
and  eran  Baiedona  or  Valencia,  ate  pleuant  leaidencM.  Spring  is  de- 
li^tfnl  in  Serille,  Ronda,  and  Gnuuida  ;  and  Astnriaa,  Qalicia,  and  the 
^•nieb  FjienAea  may  be  Tinted  in  April,  Haf,  and  Jnne.  It  mart  ba 
borne  in  mind  that,  with  the  exception  of  Anil^lnM  and  Yalenda, 
viutar  in  Spain  ta  almoat  as  severe  ae  it  is  in  the  noithem  countriea  of 
Europe  ;  and  in  AatoriB*,  the  mow  makea  the  rooda  literallf  imptacti- 
eable,  and  diligmeea  oenae  mnning  dnring  the  aerereet  months.  Tooriata 
will  do  wall  not  to  dan  the  tmwj  ninbesmi  in  Jul^  and  Aiignat, 
and  era  September,  not  to  expoee  themaelvea  t«  the  iej  blaata  of 
Oaatile  and  the  N.  dnring  winter.  Invalida  who  intend  wintering  in  the 
B.  of  Spain  can  either  proceed  thither  by  Barceloiia  wd  Valencia,  along 
the  Ueditemnean,  or  \>j  lea  bom  ManeiUes  to  either  VaLencia  oe 


GSNBRAL  DirOBlCATION. 


AlicAnte  and  Malaga.  Tlie  route  throogli  Prance  and  by  GaatQe  and 
Madrid,  and  the  long  sea  jonmey  over  tbe  Atlantic,  are  more  fatiguing, 
and  the  cold  ia  felt  much  more  than  by  the  former  routea. 

How  TO  Tratsl. — ^We  haye  giren  at  erery  principal  dty  the  fullest 
details  concerning  the  sights,  fJImate,  and  means  to  reach  it  The  finest 
sceneiy  in  Spain  is  in  Andaluwa  and  in  the  N.B.  and  N.W.  portions ;  the 
most  interesting  cities  are  in  Andalusia  and  OastQe.  Spain  may  be 
entered  in  a*  Taiiety  of  ways,  and  this  must  be  decided  by  the  tourist 
himselfl  The  cheapest  and  most  rapid  is  horn.  Southampton  to  CSadis. 
In  this  way  the  principal  dtiea  might  be  lisited,  except  Qranada,  at  a 
comparatiyely  small  expense,  and  in  about  a  fortnijg^t — ^vix. 

Cadis  (where  stay) i  day. 

Serille^bynU 2 

Cordoba,  nil i 

Madrid  (Toledo,  Eioirial),  nil  ....  3 

Buigoty  nil  I 

Bayonne^  niL,  and  embark  to  London  or  liverpod  here  or  at 
Bordeaikz;  the  cost  would  be  about /|5a 

A  French  oompany  runs  steamers  which  leave  Havre  on  the  1st  and 
16th  of  eveiy  month,  and  ply  round  the  coast  to  Lisbon,  Osdix,  QibraUar, 
and  Malaga,  stopping  a  day  at  each  of  these  ports,  and  performing  the 
voyage  in  about  ten  days :  For  Isl  cL  cabin  and  table,  260fr. ;  2d  cL 
lOOfr.;  clean  and  decent  accommodation.    Spain  can  therefore  be  reached 

1.  Direct  from  BngUmd  to  Spain  by  sso,  either /vm  Southampton  to 
Csdii,  4^  days ;  otfrim  Liverpool  to  Oorufia,  3|  daya. 

2.  'from.  Franoif  A,  by  Ftois,  Bordeaux,  and  Bayonne. 

Time. — Paris  to  Bordeamc,  I2^hrs.  by  express  and  19  hrs.  by8low(omnibiis) 
trains.  Bordeanx  to  Bayonne,  4|  hrs.  by  express  and  7  hrs.  by  ilow 
train. 

E  From  Euis  l^  Lyons,  Avignon,  Montpellier,  Ferpignaa. 


99 
9$ 
99 


DiSTAMCB. 

Tun. 

Faebs. 

Pant  to  I^fOM .... 

Avignon 

Taiaaow  (branch  Hn«  to) 
Montpdllarnnd  Cttte  i 
VkumV\   .... 

MontpcDMr 

Cette  (branch  IbM  to  Bot^^ 

Msfbonns  (branch  nnc  to 
Tonlontt),  140  UL,  3  - 
hn. ; 

Pupignan 

KSL 

ICOii. 

(SxpraatlVnin). 

ratdara. 

adOaaa. 

sdOaia. 

5t« 

M 

aS 
49 

aS 

r« 
6s 

3i« 
MS 

44 

II  hn.  soafak 
Shf».s6ain. 

jhn.   $miu, 
Shn.  snim. 

j6fr.  Soc. 
aSfir.  IOC. 

iifr.79e. 

4afr.  te& 
asfr.  IOC. 

ifr.Soe. 
Itfr.  oc 

3tfr.  asc 

isfr.  45c 

<fr.  45c 
Sfr.i  5C. 

.•0. 

^ 

•Shn.   6uiu, 

lltfr.JOC 

Sjfr.soc 

6ifr.  aoc. 

IKAVKLUNO.  ID 

C  Fnm  ICmcdUaa  to  Buoelona,  U«U^  or  Alkute  hj  na  (we 

thoMdtiM). 

D.  Pari*  to  Boidemix,  Tonlooie,  NKtbonne,  Feringiiiii,  in  S4  iia.  S9 
IB.  it  Peipignaii,  nil  and  diligenoe  to  Genua,  whenoa  by  nil  to  Bt^ 
tdtita  tffut  lattor). 

A  CompUU  Tamr  dfw^A  Spain  can  be  peifoimed  in  abont  70  daya 
to  3  BMotha,  i^aring  I  da^  genenlly  ia  moat  plaeea.  Hie  prindpal  oitiea 
and  nMMt  inten^itig  aemtxy  an  compriaed. 


Gilon 


orbrKoadL 

liH»  to  CBBsgH,  bj  It.  ud  iL,  to  HBrck,  ar 

rb/iaO  Ikio^i  QiiachOliL 

■■■addiLJ,w 


B»iM  tD  Bonn  (catbadnlL  br  il. ;  Mav  i  div. 
Caidm,  nil  (■sania},  i  diT- 


^  Skcrt  ToiiT — the  eaneat  and  moitnpid. 

K  ToJlKCklliidnl  \  i  Ibc  KKoUlOncbX 

GAnlur.  it.  («  .nid  k  u>d  cSM  taMk  M  Cgnlon,  alMaa  br  ri.  to],  bdf-d>T. 

"  •  .  ,  at.  fiiiiiMt  I  dw'  -  •         «  1 

GnMdi,  il  ud  wr  ^on  da.  drin  (Alhubn),  ■  d>^ 

TiliBi  ■  1 1  frca  Gna.  1 KOBB  by  it  to  Cetdwn,  Auc*  lo  Aleuir  Brueh  Sl,  laddk. 

T^man^  tL  uatbtidMtlj,  t  dijr :  (ownl  toaiim  a^j  tnd  k,  ud  rnTimii  ch  to 

fmai,  tL  (nn  calbeinM,  t  &t,  or  colar  Fnoca  br  Ptipicaaa  u  Toulmwi  ud  Lyooi. 
Hiym  I.  A  (aA.,mt.  n  Amnii^  i  Jmr,  whmia  to  hiiM  by  Botrlwar. 

Tliia  tooi,  Thiah  allom  one  to  Me  the  erim*  of  Spain,  may  1m  aceom- 
pliahad  in  30  dajv  ;  and  ia  beaidei,  on  the  whole,  the  eheapeit 

Jf  ^tfwwJTtff  from  ManeiUea,  *wH  iniJnHiiw  the  Salcario  lalanda  and 
Fntogal  in  the  tonr,  the  following  ie  aoggeirted : — ManeiUea  to  Bate*- 
looa;  then  to  Baleario  Island*,  Valencia,  Ifalaga,  Onnada,  Cordora, 
Senile,  Cadii ;  embark  then  fbr  liibon,  whence  by  nil  to  Hadiid 
fTolado,  Am^uet,  and  Bacorial),  and  ratam  to  Fnnoe  bj  Buigoa  and 


Xii  OKNSRAL  IMFOBMATION. 

BAILWAT& — A.  net  of  xtilwayi  it  fufc  fproading  over  Spain,  and  the 
linea  n6w  connect  all  the  principal  dties  and  tniTeiso  moat  pictueaqno 
proyinces.  To  thoae,  thmfoie,  who  do  not  intend  to  make  a  dote  for- 
Tej  of  ereiy  nook  and  comer,  bat  wiih  merelyto  aee  the  cr^am  of  Spain, 
in  a  comfortable,  safe,  and  speedy  manner,  we  certainly  recommend  to 
follow,  as  mnch  as  possible,  the  lines  of  firro-^arriUif  which  will  save 
time,  jolting  in  diligences,  imposition,  and  trouble.  Now,  trayellers  can 
reach  Oadis  firom  Paris  (throng  Madrid,  Oordoya,  Seville,  and  Jeres)^ 
without  quitting  the  train.  The  lines  are  well  managed,  partly  by 
Frenchmen ;  the  carriages  are  good  and  spacious,  and  hours  of  departure 
and  arrival  observed  as  punctuidly  as  can  be  expected.  There  are  several 
companies  over  which  Qovemment  have  no  further  control  save  inspect- 
ing Uie  lines,  watching  over  the  security  of  property  and  passengers,  etc., 
and  granting  a  subvention  in  aid  to  their  construction.  The  principal 
companies  are, '  Feiro  CSuril  del  Norte,*  Madrid  to  Bayonne,and<F.O.de 
Zaragosa,*  Madrid  to  Zaragosa  and  Barcelona ;  the  Madrid  and  Alicante 
to  Valencia,  and  the  Seville  and  Cordova  in  Uie  South,  lliey  were  con- 
structed by  foreign  engineen,  French  especially,  and  with  English  and 
French  capital  They  are  well  oiganiBcd,  on  the  French  system.  Tbe 
avenge  rate  of  speed  is  about  15  miles  an  hour.  The  buffets  are  ex- 
tortionate, but  good,  and  kept  by  French  restanratenis. 

THE  BOAD. 

DnjOBNon  and  MaU^fotUi — ^JMli.  are  generally  divided  into  three 
compartments.  The  first  is  called  herUna  (in  Frendi  coupd),  and  holds 
three  persons.  It  is  the  most  agreeable  in  summer,  but  cold  in  winter, 
and  the  dearest  of  the  three.  The  seats  are  thus  placed  : — 1,  3,  8.  The 
2d  compartment  is  called  d  inUriar,  and  holds  three  or  four,  and  some- 
times is  made  to  hold  six  persons,  and  corresponds  to  2d  dass  by  rail : 
the  movement  is  the  best  of  the  three.  The  3d  compartment  is  2a  ro- 
tmuia:  the  movement  is  very  bad,  and  the  sode^  not  very  select  The 
dickey,  above,  called  caupt^  or  imperial  Qn  French,  banquette),  is  the 
cheapest,  and  we  recomm^id  it  to  men  or  ladies  who  do  not  mind  climb- 
ing, as  it  is  the  pleasantest  in  spring  and  summer ;  but  in  winter  it  is 
the  last  place  to  take.  Some  dils.  have  two  berlinas.  The  rate  of  speed 
is  about  2  leagues  an  hour,  more  usually  2^,  and  the  price  5  to  7r.  a 
league.  The  coarhman  or  conductor  is  called  mayoral;  he  has  the 
respondUe  care  of  travellers  and  carriage,  and  usually  drives  himself. 
The  Mu^  is  the  man  idio  runs  by  the  side  of  the  mules,  whipping  the 
laggards,  and  encouraging  them  with  oaths,  and  calling  to  them  by  their 
names.  The  postilion  is  called  *  el  delsntero,*  and  is  invariably  a  boy 
between  12  and  19,  who  has  sometimfa  to  ride  for  three  days  and  three 
nights  incessantly.     Tlie  mayoral  is  paid  20r.  a^y,  the  lagal  14r., 


TBAVSLLINa  XIU 

«iid  the  pott-boj  lOr.  It  is  nsaal  to  give  him  a  fee,  2,  4,  6r. ;  if  a  long 
jonm&jf  and  be  has  been  ciTil,  give  the  mayoial  a  61  piece.  The  mulesi 
8, 10,  and  eomethnee  eren  14  to  a  team,  are  strong,  bazdyi  bat  yiobns 
animals,  worth  aboot  2000r.  to  5000r.  and  6000r.  The  baggage  allowed 
is  80  kUs.  (44  lbs.)  The  ezcte  de  poids  is  higL  We  caution  traTellera 
agdnst  nn&ir  weighing  in  diflSerent  diL  offices,  to  avoid  which  they  had 
better  see  it  weighed  before  leaving  on  their  journey,  and  note  it  down. 
Ladies  had  better  cany  as  little  as  possible,  and  if  they  intend  to  ride 
some  time,  had  better  be  provided  with  a  small  portmanteau  to  fasten  on 
a  horse,  and  strong  leather  bags.  Sacs  de  voyage,  travelling  toilet-cases, 
and  the  like,  are  cumbersome,  and  exposed  to  rougji  handling. 

i2i<itf^  is.the  most  plsasant  way  of  travelling,  provided  one  is  strong 
and  disposed  to  rough  it  Always  attend  to  the  provend — ^fill  the  batOf 
and  become  Mends  with  your  guide,  who,  if  you  give  yourself  any 
*  bumos  (airs),  will  either  leave  you  in  the  lurch,  or  not  make  it  plea- 
sant ;  inrtead  of  which,  witH  some  jntroif  and  a  emmpliment  to  the  horses 
and  the  country,  you  may  obtain  a  deal  of  information,  and  often  some 
CKfML  and  well-told  stories  full  of  salt  and  couleur  locale,  to  beguile  the 
way.  Hie  usual  charges  are  30r.  to  |2  a-day  for  a  horse,  not  paying  his 
keep;  and  one  dollar  to  the  guide,  without  paying  his  feecUng  or  lod^ngs. 
Hm  price  for  a  bed  and  supper  at  a  wnto  is  about  from  12r.  to  20r.  a 
night  in  the  Souths  but  much  cheaper  in  the  North.  Always  allow  the 
gidde  to  settle  about  the  inns  to  put  up  at,  and  the  hours  of  starting,  but 
attend  yourself  to  the  provend,  uid  girt  the  saddle  and  see  to  the  bridle 
and  shodng  of  your  horse.  As  for  robbers,  none  axe  to  be  found  in 
Spain,  and  revolvers  would  be  worse  than  useless. 

It  wiU  be  as  well  to  acquaint  the  riding  tourist  with  several  terms 
used  in  such  expeditions  to  design  bridle-roads,  etc.  ^VocAo,  a  short  cut 
out  of  the  common  road ;  camino  de  karradwrOj  bridle-road,  literally 
horse-shoe  road ;  «0fu2crs  or  sMicia,  a  pathway — a  way  just  maiked  out  by 
the  foot  of  the  smugglfrr  and  labourer;  cammo  de  perdieee^  road  of  par- 
tridges—difficult, found  out  rather  by  instinct  than  otherwise ;  canUno 
eral  or  earrderOj  Gk>veniment  road — ^highroad;  arrteifee^  name  given 
in  Andalusia  to  high  roads  or  causeways— chaussto  ;  ttaveUa  and  camwo 
de  atajoy  a  short  cut — a  bye-way ;  raiMa^  a  sort  of  road ;  or  better,  bed 
of  river,  which  being  dry  in  summer  serves  as  a  road,  etc.  The  ordinary 
pace  is  1^  league  an  hour.  Mules  axe  sometimes  preferable  to  horses,  a> 
having  a  better  and  steadier  pace  and  surer  foot 

Sidesaddles  for  ladies  axe  recommended  in  preference  to  a  chair, 
sometimes  placed  on  one  side,  which,  however,  may  be  adopted,  except 
where  hiUy  districts  are  to  be  traversed.  Return  of  horses  and  men  ie 
always  understood  in  the  bargain,  where  the  contrary  has  not  been  speci- 
fied. The  principal  riding  tours  are  in  Andalnma  and  Asturias,  and 
some  in  the  Spamsh  I^yrenees.     Where  the  countiy  abounds  in  pictur- 


XLY  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

eaqiie  •ceneiy,  and  when  nnd^taken  in  antanin  or  spring,  this  mode  of 
travelling  will  prove  a  source  of  great  enjoyment,  of  health  and  manly 
exertion.  "V^thoat  a  ride  in  the  South  a  voyage  to  Spain  cannot  be  called 
complete,  and  we  mnst  say  with  Lord  Byron — 

Thouffa  ibmrds  doem  it  bot  an  idle  cfaacc. 
And  marrelmcii  should  quit  their  mMf  chair. 
The  toilMflM  way,  and  looc,  long  leafue  to  traoe^ 
Oh  I  there  ie  iweetneis  io  the  mountain  air, 
Andliie^  that  bloated  ease  can  never  hope  to  share. 


Potting  ii  no  longer  resorted  to  now-*-days. 

Qdltta»4 — Waggon-carts  covered  over,  without  springs,  performing  7 
or  8  leagues  *-day,  at  a  slow  pace,  and  dragged  by  some  8,  10,  or  12 
mules.  They  stop  for  the  night  at  the  posada,  ventas,  or  ventorilla  It 
is  a  veiy  slow  and  fiittiguing  way  of  travelling,  and  riding  is  by  far  pre- 
ferable. 

Ptdrntriamitm  is  unknown  in  Spain,  and  scarcely  to  be  thou^  of, 
except  in  Astnrias,  (Salioia,  and  the  I^rnneea.  Arrieros  may  be  joined  in 
long  riding-tours ;  they  are,  together  with  cosarios,  ordinarios,  and  ma- 
ragaton,  the  regular  muleteen  and  carriers  that  are  met  with  on  Span- 
ish roads. 

MaiU, — Sillas-correo  are  the  Qovemment  mails.  Ihey  axe  usually 
large,  high,  two-seat  berlinas,  going  veiy  fut,  stopping  only  the  neces- 
sary time  for  meals. 


The  Spanish  steamers,  except  those  of  the  Company  Lopes  (which  are 
first-rate,  and  built  in  Scotland),  are  neither  Cut  nor  comfortable.  The 
French  Oompagnie  Fluvialeetltoitime  run  good  boats,  which  are  gener- 
ally punctual  in  their  hoursof  departure  and  arrivaL  The  cabins  are  called 
camanUi  <i!f  la,  2a,  y  3a  dam.  Children  under  three  years  of  age  do  not 
pay ;  fi^xm  3  to  7,  only  half-passage.  The  luggage  allowed  to  each  first 
and  second  class  passenger  varies  from  80  to  100  Idlog.  Meals  are  gener- 
ally not  included  in  the  ticket;  10  to  12r.  a  break&st,  and  14  to  16r. 
dinner.  We  do  not  mention  the  Peninsular  and  Oriental  Steam  NaTig»- 
tion  Company's  steamers,  nor  those  of  the  Messageries  Imp^riales,  as 
their  excdlent  accommodationi  superior  speed,  etc,  are  too  well  known 
to  require  commendation. 

TackHng* — ^The  principal  ports  to  visit  are  BOboa,  G^on,  CoruSa, 
Vigo  {Portugal^  Opoito,  Lisbon),  Seville,  Cadis,  Gibraltar,  Malaga,  Ali- 
cante, Valencia,  and  Barcelona.  The  Commsndante  del  Puerto  is  the 
chief  authority.    The  best  season  is  summer  and  autumn. 

FABBPOBTa. 

According  to  decree  of  December  17, 1862,  no  passports  are  required 
from  foreigners  entering  Spain,  or  from  Spaniards  going  to  En^and  or 


TBAVXLLINa  XT 

Fruea.  FordgnexB  are,  howerer,  Ikble  to  be  oilled  upon  bj  local 
Bpaniih  tnthoEitiet  to  dedaie  their  nationality,  and  object  of  theb  jour- 
nej.  Any  docmnoiit  eetabliahiog  the  identity,  or  a  declaration  signed 
by  two  witneieee,  reaidenti  at  the  place  where  it  may  be  required,  and 
puiporting  their  knowledge  of  the  traTeller*8  name,  wiU  snffiiDe.  Theae 
are  aearo^  erer  required. 

POOT-OmOB. 

Until  the  15th  oentuiy,  news,  letters,  and  Qoyemment  orders  wore 
transmitted  in  Spain  by  horsemen,  and  more  especially  by  foot  messen- 
gea,  andarines  (pedestrians),  like  the  hmnerodnmm  of  the  Greeks,  and 
the  Boman  cwrm/m.  Philip  the  Fair  and  his  Queen  DoSa  Juana  were 
the  fimt  to  establish  posting  regulations,  and  made  the  office  of  Maestro 
Mayor  da  Hostes,  Postas  y  Oorreos,  a  Toy  important  one,  which  became 
hereditary.  In  the  hvofj  reigns  of  Charles  Y.  and  Philip  EL  this  appoint- 
ment was  no  sinecure,  as  couriers  were  always  *  on  the  wing,'  carrying 
oiden  to  aU  parts  of  the  world.  Letters  were  entrusted  to  especial  esta- 
fefeas^  but  subsequently  the  QoTemment  couriers  took  charge  of  them.  The 
first  Tehides  used  were  light  carts  (about  1642),  and  the  first  maQ- 
coaches,  jtZtot  ds  Pctta  (postdudses),  began  to  run  in  1739.  Offices  were 
established  only  in  the  principal  cities,  and  until  1759  only  one  diitri- 
bution  of  letters  made  a  week.  The  first  daily  post  estabUshment  be- 
tween Bayonne  and  Madrid  was  begun  in  1844.  Shortly  after  a  diligence 
senrioewas  established,  and  we  remember  going  from  Madrid  to  Bayonne 
by  that  last  means  in  six  days,  sleeping,  haciendo  noche^  every  night  Be- 
fore 1840  thoee  about  to  undertake  a  journey  in  Spain  called  a  priest,  a 
doctor,  and  an  Escribano,  confessed,  took  medicine,  and  wrote  their  wUL 
Letter-writing  has  of  late  years  increased  in  proportion  as  letter-boxes  haye 
been  established,  the  distribution  made  daily,  and  the  stamps  (mOm)  di- 
minished in  price.  The  total  number  of  letters  in  1846  was  19,044,958  ; 
in  1861,  69,447,86a 

Ltttin, — Their  deliveiy  is  well  r^gulsted,  and,  foreign  letters 
•omethnfis  excepted,  most  of  them  end  by  srriTing  tU  piurto.  Letters  are 
nerer  opened  saTe  during  exceptional /^tviuifiaaflitbito  moments  and  elec- 
tionfwring  time.  Letters  are  addressed  either  to  the  correspondent's  resi- 
dence, to  which  they  are  taken  bythe  postman  (0{carl«ro),or  left  at  the  box 
till  cdled  for,  poUi  mkmit,  in  Spanish  Oonw,  Sr.  XXm  stands  for  SeiUfr 
Don  (usual  mode  of  letter  address)  ;  Cto.  for  cwario  (the  stoiy  or  floor ; 
S*.  the  8d  floor ;  dha.  for  c2w«cAa,  door  on  the  right ;  isda.  for  tMjumda^ 
left  If  writing  to  a  foreigner,  jpssitt  mkmU  (write  eorrm  at  the  bottom  of 
the  envelope)^  omit  as  much  as  possible  all  such  words  as  Christian 
titles,  JBtj^  etc.,  and  confine  yourself  to  writing  very  le^Mn  the 
lliis  wiU  aroid  loss  of  letters,  and  the  confusion  often  arising 
bout  the  difficulties  experienced  by  the  Spanish  post-office  clerks  in  do- 


ZVi  GKNSRAL  DirORMATION. 

dpheiing  Engliah  names,  and  betides  it'faoilitatee  leaeaiclii  aa  all  letteit 
addieMed  poiU  retUaUe  {carrto)  axe  eorted  alphabetieallyy  or  according  aa 
thej  airiye.  Thnt,  alao^  the  addieaMS  are  copied  and  exposed  on  bouda 
at  the  post-officea.  Let  the  toniiflt,  who  will  Tint  thia  building  before 
any  other,  look  into  theae  lists;  when  he  finds  his  name  down,  let  him 
take  the  nnmber  corresponding  to  it,  write  it  dearl j,  and  giye  it  to  an 
impUado,  The  passport  is  sometimes  aaked  for,  or  in  lien  an  old  letter- 
cover,  or  a  card,  will  be  sofficient  to  establish  identity.  We  alao  advise 
tourists  to  go  tkenuehet  to  daim  their  letters,  and  alao  to  post  them,  as 
*  les  voyageors  ont  to^jonrs  tort'  If  staying  any  time  in  the  same  town, 
letters  had  better  be  addressed  to  the  residence.  A  euarto  ia  then  paid 
to  the  cartero  for  every  letter  or  newspaper.  There  is  alao  a  aprrss  inU" 
rior  distribnted  gratis  in  the  town  with  a  S-enartoa  stamp.  The  address 
consiBts  then  of  the  SeSor  Don,  CSiristian  name,  somame,  stareet,  nnmber, 
floor,  etc,  and  at  the  foot  *  canto  interior.'  levellers  uA  residents  may 
alao  have  a  separate  division  for  their  letters,  and  an  earlier  delivery  of 
them,  by  paying  a  fixed  snm  for  this  division,  called  d  apariado—Yii, 
240r.  per  annum  in  Madrid ;  SOOr.  in  some  cities ;  160r.,  lOOr:,  and  80r. 
only  in  others.  The  charge  for  postage  is  by  weight,  irrespective  of  dis* 
tance.  The  stamps  are  called  asUof ;  to  frank,  fiwnquear;  an  address, 
soireierito  and  las  »elUu. 

Stamp  Tariff. 

In  the  IrUmar  of  OiHet  (Carreo  Inienor). — ^Any  letter,  newspaper, 
irrespective  of  weight  and  siie,  2-cnartoa  stamp. 

In  the  Pravince»—fnm  one  city  to  another. — Any  sing^  letter  {oartu 
teneiUa)  not  exceeding  ^  oz.  weight  (six  adarmes)  4-euartoe  stamp ;  do.  if 
more  than  i  oc,  and  not  eiceeding  2  oa,  8  cnartos. 

A  4^uaxto6  stamp  for  every  additional  }  os.,  or  fraction  of  }  oi. 

Patterm^  without  value,  with  an  open  band  or  /^'o,  pay  half  the 
value  of  the  letters,  and  by  weight. 

New8pi^>er8,  and  other  printed  papera  sent  by  private  individuals, 
closed  with  an  open  band,  a  4-cuartoa  stamp  for  each.  Those  aent  by 
newspaper  offices,  30r.  per  arrobe. 

Booki  of  no  great  site  3r.  per  lb.  to  lOr.,  according  to  their  being 
sent  by  editor,  bookselleis,  or  private  individuals,  or  their  being  bound 
or  not     Closed  parcels  of  books  pay  like  letters 

To  Spamth  Cb^Mt.— To  Cuba  and  Puerto  Rico.— The  mails  leave 
Cadis  every  20  daya.  A  single  letter  (}  os.)  Ir.,  and  Ir.  per  each  ^  os. 
To  the  same,  vid  England,  4r.  per  }  os.    ' 

To  Philippine  Idands,  2r.  per  }  os.,  to  be  sent  to  Algedraa  before 
the  7th  of  the  month,  sent  vid  Gibralter  by  English  steamers. 

Franqueo(8tamping)inSpainandtohercoloniesisobligatory.  Lettersnot 


TBAVKLLING.  XVll 

Stamped  are  detained,  and  an  ovuo  eent  to  the  penona  to  whom  they  aie 
directed,  who  on  paying  the  amonnt  obtain  the  letters.  Selloe  oratampn 
are  sold  at  aU  tobacooniBti^  (mUmooi).  The  boxes  are  called  hutmm  ((mm, 
a  diver,  from  the  old  rerb  huar).  BiffiMttred  UtUn  (oertiflcadas)  require 
an  especial  stamp,  obtained  at  and  from  the  post-office  derks. 

8ingU  letUn  from  England^  not  prepaid,  pay  4r.  per  }  oz^  and  doable 
letters  pay  doable  when  not  prepaid.  Letters  from'  England,  on  which 
there  are  stamps  onder  sixpence,  are  ooDsidered  not  prepaid.  Letters  to 
England,  prepayment  Tolontaiy.  Not  exceeding  ^  os.  pay  2r. ;  and  2r» 
more  for  each  ^  os.  or  fraction  of  it  above.  Newspapers  and  other 
printed  papers  from  England  not  prepaid  will  be  considered  as  not  pre- 
paid letters,  and  subject  to  a  fine.  They  pay  130r.  to  150r.  per  arrobe. 
B^gistered  letters  to  England  mast  be  prepaid.  Those  from  England  are 
xeceived  gratia.  Begirtered  letters  to  En^Umd  pay  4r.  stamp,  izrespectiye 
of  weight,  besides  the  osaal  ones. 

PintugaL — ^A  single  letter,  6  caartos ;  certified  letters,  Sr.  besides  the 
ordinary  stamps ;  newspapers,  8  caartos  per  each  S4  adann6  or  fraction. 
Th!dfranqu€o  is  obligatory. 

Fnmoe, — ^Yolantaiy  franqaeo ;  for  each  ^  o&  12  caartos  ;  single  let- 
ters from  France  or  Algeria,  not  affranchies,  pay  in  Spain  18  caartos  per 
\  OS.     Certified  letters  to  France  mast  be  prepaid. 

Books  of  Rrfortnce, — 'Itinerario  Genend  de  EspaSSa,*  bjr  Campiuano; 
Madrid,  1S56,  4th  edition. 

<  Memoria  Razonada  7  Estadistica  de  Correos,'  by  D.  T.  Quinta 

'Itinerario  Real,'  etc.,  by  Campomanes.  A  Rerista  de  Correos  is  pub- 
lished monthly. 

[Since  the  abore  was  written,  Spain  having  entered  the  Postal  Union,  the  in- 
ternational rates  are  now  (1876)  the  same  as  those  in  force  in  other  European 
ooontries.] 

TXLSOBAPB. 

Telegraphs  began  to  be  established  aboat  1866,  and  now  connect  the 
whole  countacy.  It  is  administered  by  GoTemment  clerks.  There  are 
day  and  night  services  in  all  the  principal  cities.  A  telegram,  tin  cfet- 
^mmAo  tdegrd^f  may  be  written  in  French,  bat  we  adTise  correspondents 
in  Spain  to  write  theirs  in  Spanish.  A  telegram  of  20  words,'from 
any  jpart  of  the  Peninsala  to  another,  costs  8r.  For  more  than  20 
and  not  more  than  40  words,  16r.,  and  so  on  at  the  same  rate. 
The  prices  of  foreign  ones  vary  according  to  especial  international 
conventions.  To  France,  not  exceeding  20  words,  16r. — special 
telegraph  stampa  are  reqoired,  and  sold  at  tobacconists/  etc  Every 
word  pot  down  by  the  writer  of  the  telegram  is  indadad  in  the  nam- 
ber  of  the  words,  sach  as  address,  date,  signature.  Tne  writer  of  a 
telegram,  by  paying  dr.,  can  obtain  from  the  telegraph  office  to  which  he 
is  sending  a  telegram,  an  '  acaso  de  recibo,*  by  which  he  may  know 

h 


xviii  GlNieRAL  infobmation. 

wbeilior  liii  telegnm  has  been  reoeiTed  at  the  0jie$  to  which  il  was  aent. 
He  has  then  to  add  after  the  text^  and  before  the  cignatnrey  the  worda, 
'  Aoqao  de  reeiba*  By  patting  in  the  aame  plaoe  ^  worda,  f  Ooleed- 
6neae,*  and  bj  paying  over  again  the  price  of  Uie  telegram,he  will  obtain 
a  daplicate.  of  it  aent  by  the  office  to  which  he  tranamita  it  For  an 
antwir  paid,  he  will  write  in  the  aame  place  *  repneata  (ao  many)  palab- 
raa.'  A  receipt  ia  alwaya  given  by  the  office  derk  to  the  telegram  writei^ 
The  carriage  of  a  telegram  to  the  residence  of  the  parties  to  whom  it  is 
addreased  ia  2r.  Telegrams  can  be  aent  jmU  retiaiUe  (*  oorreo')  and  fol- 
low the  tourists  who  have  informed  the  postmaster  of  the  place  they  are 
going  to,  etc 

Homa  AND  LODomoa. 

A  hotel  ia  generally  called  La  Fonda  (from  fondak,  Arabici^  a  cara- 
vanserai Fotada  (rest,  repose,  which  it  seldom  affords)  is  the  hotel  at 
small  conntiy  placeS|  ai  caoriersy  and  ia  but  a  degree  higgler  than  a  muon^ 
the  arrieros^  usual  inn.  A  Venia  ia  a  bye-way  meaon,  where  the  accom- 
modation and  food  are  equally  bad.  A  Vmtonv  and  VentoriUo  are  mere 
roadside  pot-houses,  where  a  bed  ia  seldom  to  be  found.  La  Tabema  is 
the  cabaiety  the  wine-shop.  A  Fonda  is  called  sometimes  a  Parador, 
from  its  being  the  inn  where  diligences  stop  (fiorar)  for  meals  at  differ- 
ent hours :  lodging,  meals,  and  aerrice  are  usually  included  in  the  price 
Tlie  charges  in  laige  cities  vary  from  35r.  to  45r.  in  the  W.  and  N.  (^  Spain ; 
20r.  is  the  average.  The  table  d'hote  (m«aa  redcnda)  is  generally  resorted 
to,  although  the  company  is  often  of  a  mixed  character ;  to  put  on  a 
good  fSace  and  pass  on  the  dish  to  a  neighbour  is  the  surest  way  to 
avoid  remarks  aoid  a  bad  dinner.  The  emtin^  is  now-a-days  al  e$tilo  de 
Fraama^  and  does  not  deserve  the  critique  d  the  fastidious  traveller. 
The  Fuchero  is  always  served  ;  it  is  wholesome^  abundant,  and  devoid  of 
garlic  and  oiL  The  wine  can  be  drunk  with  water.  Never  ask  for  either 
tea  or  coffee,  except  in  the  first-dass  hotels,  but  take  them  with  you  from 
England  or  Paris,  and  renew  the  provision  at  Gibraltar.  Waiters  at  hotels, 
called  camareroi^  are  paid  2r.  a-day ;  the  maid,  doncMi  or  eriada^  about 
the  same. 

There  are  in  cities  eaeae  de  pupHoe  and  de  kueapedu^  or  lodgings, 
where  meals  at  meaa  redonda  are  included.  The  terms  vary  frrom  20r. 
to  34r.  a-day.  A  very  comfortable  room  can  be  obtained  for  20r.  a-day. 
Those  that  are  to  let  have  a  piece  of  white  paper  placed  on  a  eomer  of 
the  balcony.  When  not  fumished,  the  paper  is  placed  in  the  middle. 
Living  is  in  this  latter  way  exceedingly  cheap.  Indeed,  by  knowing  how 
to  manage,  an  economical  bachelor  (and  there  are  auch  beings  ^i  the 
world)  can  live  at  the  rate  of  ;£8  to  £10  a-month.  Young  artists  who 
have  to  make  their  way  in  the  world,  and  to  whom  economy  is  a  great 
object^  often  refrain  hom  a  journey  to  this  land  of  art,  from  fear  of  the 


QSOGRAFHT  AND  STATISTIOS.  XIZ 

ezpemas  of  tniYelliiig.  This  consideration  should  not  deter  them.  Let 
them  tmrel  two  or  three  together,  learn  a  few  of  the  most  nseM  phrases 
in  [^Mnish ;  thej  can  go  8d  class  by  steamers  from  England  to  Cadiz. 
There,  if  thej  do  not  prefer  the  railway,  and  wish  to  see  the  sceneiy  9t 
leisnrey  they  will  purchase  mules  &)r  ;^20  each,  which  will  be  sold  for 
^16 ;  and  by  roughing  it  a  little,  joining  the  arrieros,  etc.,  they  will  be 
aUe  to  liTa  for  4s.  a-day,  keeping  besides  the  maeho.  M.  DesbaroUes,  a 
French  painter,  went  thus  with  a  brother  artist  all  over  Spain,  and  pub- 
lished hk  tour, '  Deux  Artistes  en  Espagne.* 

Geography  and  Statistioa. 

Spain  is  situate  between  north  lat  30" — 43"  47',  and  west  long.  9" 
17'  to  east  long.  3"  SO'.  Its  greatest  length,  from  east  to  west,  is  660 
miles,  and  breadth,  from  north  to  south,  640  miles  Eng.  The  surface 
eontaina  193,000  sq.  miles  (three  times  more  than  England).  The 
kmgest  days  and  nights  are — ^m  the  northern  portion,  of  16  hrs.  16 
min.,  and  in  the  south,  of  14  his.  30  min.  Geographical  diyiMon, 
based  on  dimate,  is  out  of  the  question  in  a  country  that  contains  such 
rmtty  of  temperature  under  the  same  degree  of  latitude  :  that  based  on 
the  i^ysical  configuration  is  easer.  According  to  Mr.  Boiy  de  St  Yin- 
cent,  Sjpain  may  be  divided  into  seven  distinct  chains  of  mountains : — 

1.  Pyrenaan — Comprises  the  Pyrenees,  and  the  Asturian  or  CSsntabrio 
range. 

8.  Iberian — Oontains  the  Sierra  de  Molina,  Moncayo,  Oca,  Albar- 
razin,  and  Ouenca,  which  fonn  that  vast  reservoir  from  which  the  four 
laigest  rivers  flow  into  the  Mediterranean  and  the  Atlantic  ocean — ^namely, 
Guadalaviar  or  Turia,  Cabriel,  Icar,  and  the  Tsgus.  Hie  Sierra  de 
Espadan  nM^  here  also,  extending  to  the  sea^coast 

3.  CarpitamthVeUonian — Constituted  by  the  reunion  of  the  Sierras  de 
Guadarrama  and  Somosierra,  which  thus  divide  the  Castiles.  It  com- 
prises also  the  group  of  the  Gredas  hiUs,  Sierra  de  GUta,  extending  to 
PortugaL  Here  are  especially  found  those  immense,  denuded,  wind- 
blown table-lands  called  paranumf  which  have  a  great  influence  on  this 

4.  !%€  Lutitanian  sone  is  the  lowest  and  less  important  of  all  the 
Sierras,  and  belongs  more  especially  to  New  Castile  and  Estremadura. 
It  is  placed  between  Somoeierra  on  the  north,  the  Molina  and  Cuenoa 
ranges  to  east  and  south-east,  Guadarrama  to  north-east,  and  Sieira 
Morena  to  south. 

6.  Marian  (Montes  Mariani)  is  constituted  by  the  Sierra  Morena.  It 
is  the  most  metalliferous  of  all  in  Spain. 

6.  CiMMMsi — ^Formed  by  the  range  of  hills  that  extend  from 'Porta- 
kgre,  towards  the  south,  between  the  Alemtejo  and  Algarves.  It  is  but 
a  ptolongation  of  the  Lusitanian  zone. 


GENERAL  INFORICATION. 

7.  The  Bcftican  compriseB  the  extreme  southern  or  Andalnrian  por- 
tion— ^namely,  the  ranges  of  Bonda,  Alhamai  Tejada,  and  Sierra  Nevada. 

Thus  the  whole  conntry,  a  rest  agglomeration  of  monntains,  eom* 
parable  to  a  gigantic  pynonid  half-way  serered,  rises  on  an  average  in 
the  central  portions  2000  to  3000  ft  above  the  sea  (the  central  table* 
land  is  about  93,000  square  miles).  There  are  valleys  situated  con- 
siderably abore  6000  fL  These  lofty  ranges,  were  they  seen  from  a 
baloon,  would  give  one  the  idea  of  the  mighty  skeleton  or  carcase  of  a 
shipwrecked  leviathan,  whose  bones  protrude  through  the  tawny  skin 
and  Terdant'  soiL  These  intersect  the  snr&ee  in  every  sense,  and  have 
been  most  effoctive  in  creating  difTerenoes  of  race,  laws,  and  history. 

RiYSBS. — ^The  Ebro  rises  near  Beynoea,  flows  for  460  mOes,  and 
empties  its  waters  into  the  Mediterranean  near  Amposta.  The  Duero 
(Douro  in  Portuguese)  rises  in  the  Sierra  de  Urbion,  north  of  Soria ;  flows 
by  Zamora  for  460  miles,  and  is  emptied  into  the  Atlantic  below  Oporto, 
llie  Toffui  (d  Togo)  rises  in  the  hills  of  Albanazin,  and  after  a  course  of 
600  miles,  flows  into  the  Atlantic  at  lisbon.  The  Ouadiana  rises  in  the 
Mauftha,  near  Almagro,  crosses  Bstremadura,  and  flows — after  a  course  of 
680  miles — into  the  ocean  at  Ayamonte.  The  Chiadalquifnr  rises  in  the 
gorges  of  Sierra  de  Casorla,  then,  after  a  course  of  400  miles,  empties 
itsi^  into  the  Atlantic  near  Osdii.  There  are  besides  60  to  70  minor 
ones,  with  thousands  of  tributaries.  The  beds  of  rivers  in  Spain  are 
geuflsally  dry  in  summer,  and  become  torrents  in  the  winter  and  spring. 

Cahalb. — Gcmal  Imperial  de  Aragon^  begun  in  the  reign  of  Oharles 
m,  formed  with  the  waters  fkom  the  Ebro,  navigable  from  £1  Bocal  to 
Almenara,  and  beyond  used  only  for  irrigation.  ComI  vf  CaetHe,  168 
kiL  long,  from  Alar  del  Bey  to  Yalladolid ;  navigable ;  begun  1753. 
Canal  of  San  Fernando^  not  completed :  the  object  is  to  mike  all  the 
Qnadalquivir  navigable.  Canal  de  la  AUmfira  (Valencia)  not  concluded ; 
30  kiL  long  ;  begins  at  Sueca.  Canal  de  Urgd^  for  irrigation.  Canal 
de  leabd  II.;  the  most  important ;  the  object,  to  supply  Madrid  and  the 
provinces  with  water.  By  the  canalisation  of  the  Ebro,  should  the 
Government  ever  approve  the  works,  Zaragoia  will  be  directly  connected 
with  the  sea. 

Spain  was  foimeriy  divided  into  fourteen  large  provinces,  called  by 
diflierent  names — Beinoe  (kingdoms),  SeSorios,  Principados,  etc  In  1 84 1 
this  classification  disappeared,  and  Uie  count^  is  now  divided  into  forty- 
nine  provinces. 

The  provinces  are:  Alava,  Albacete,  Alicante,  Almeria,  Avila, 
fiadiyos,  Balearic  Islands,  Barcelona,  Burgos,  Oiceres,  Oadis,  Canary 
Islands,  Oaitellon,  Ciudad  Besl,  Oordova,  CoruSa,  Ouenca,  Gerona, 
Granada,  Gaudakjara,  Guipusooa,  Huelva,  Huesca,  Jaen,  Leon,  Ldrida, 
Iiogro2o,  Lugo,  Madrid,  Murda,  Malaga,  Navarra,  Orense,  Oviedo, 
Pklanciay   Ponteredrsy  Salamanca,  Santander,  Segovia,  Seville,  Soiia, 


CnOLOGT 

TungQiiAy  Ternal,  Toledo,  Yaleneia,  Yalladolid,  YizeayA,  Zunon,  Zan- 
gonu  It  it  eoolefiMtietllj  diTided  into  nine  aidibiahopries  and  foz^* 
six  biehoprice,  and  militarily  into  seventeen  Oapitaniae-Gleneialee. 

Thi  PcpiHatim  amounted  in  1864  to  16,308,686,  or  84  inhabitants 
to  the  square  mile.    In  the  reign  of  Philip  IL  it  was  only  8,806,791. 

The  annj  nombeis  833,000  men;  tiie  navy  comprises  118  ships, 
anned  with  1071  cannons,  and  manned  by  14,680  sailors,  and  7980 
marines.  For  details  on  the  trade,  education,  and  ereiything  connected 
with  statiitics,  we  refer  our  readers  to  the  'Annario  Estadistico  de 
Espana,'  which  is  published  annually ;  to  the  '  Bevista  de  Estadistica,* 
published  at  Madrid  and  Baroebna  ;  to  Sr.  Qarrido's  excellent  <  Espagne 
Oootemporaine  ;*  Bruxelles,  1868  ;  Nervo's  'Espagne  en  1867.' 

Mavs. — ^The  best  map  of  Spain  is  that  recently  published  by  Sr.  D. 
Francisco  Coella  His  AUas  of  Spain  and  Ultramarine  possessions,  on 
the  scale  of  j^ssso*  ^  being  completed.  The  map  of  Spain,  ordered  by 
Qoremment  and  entrusted  to  an  especial  Commission  of  Officers,  is  Ux 
from  being  finished.  We  recommend  Cabanes^  map,  found  in  his  <  Gkua 
General,'  useful  as  a  general  trarelling-map ;  but  those  who  seek  for 
more  details  and  greater  exactitude,  those  travelling  in  especial  districts, 
riding  or  walking  tourists,  will  do  well  to  provide  themselves  with  the 
AUas  of  Mados^s  Dictionaiy.  Monsieur  Dufour  has  also  published 
separate  maps  of  provinces,  with  routes.  We  recommend  also,  '  Dio- 
donario  Qeografico-estadistico  Historico'  of  Mados  and  Cfoello,  16  vols. 
4ta  Madrid  1848-50.  Its  price  is  high,  but  the  contents  are  of  great 
value  and  the  statements  are  generally  trustworthy. 

Of  the  ^renees — ^Mr.  L^sat^s  general  map  (at  Fsris,  Napoleon  Chaix, 
Rue  Berg^),  is  excellent  That  drawn  up  by  the  French  Military 
Engineen  is  most  accurate. 

a«olo87. 

It  would  be  a  mistake  to  suppose  that  Spain  is  terra  incogniSa  to  geolo- 
gists. Msny  regions  there  are,  doubtless,  where  the  hunmer  has  not 
as  yet  sounded,  but  many  more  have  been  studied  with  care  and  intelli- 
genoe,  as  well  by  native  geologists  as  by  foreign,  and  the  list  of  wodu  we 
subjoin  will  leave  little  doubt  Oki  the  subject  According  to  the  mvanU 
who  have  explored  this  country,  Spain  is  a  most  interesting  field,  and 
the  study  of  its  geological  formations  of  a  nature  to  enrich  the  science 
generally.  Bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  Pyrenees  and  CSantabric  range, 
Spain  is  traversed  obliciuely,  from  EJT JS.  to  WJSwW.,  by  four  orological 
systems  or  ranges,  viz. — 1.  The  Sierra  Quadarrama,  which  im  joinod  to 
the  Sierras  de  Qredss,  Gkita,  Estrella,  and  extends  to  the  ocean.  8.  The 
Montes  de  Toledo.  3.  Sierra  Morena,  forming  the  promontory  to  S.W. 
celled  Gbpe  St  "^nnoent     4.  Hie  Southern  range,  which  comprises  the 


ZXU  OKNXRAL  INTOBMATION. 

(MenaNeradayTejadayandBonda.  TheyareyOfoonneyOfdifliBrentpezioda. 
The  eailiest  are  in  the  .centre  of  the  Peninsula — riz.  l^tee  of  Toledo  and 
Siena  Moiena.  Una  nuclena  is  entiielj  palnoioio.  No  portion  of  the 
•eoondarjr  period  la  noticeable,  not  eren  the  oldest  triaasio  limestone. 

The  caibonifenma  deposita  are  aitoated  on  the  aonthem  part  of  the 
range.  They  generally  contain  in  the  lower  portion  limeatone,  with 
foadla  ;  among  them  tiie  Produehu  temiretieulatiii.  The  coal  ia  found 
with  conglomeratea  and  chalk.  The  moat  important  depoaita  are  thoae 
of  Behnez,  Espiel,  and  ViUannera  del  Bio,  near  Serille,  Aa  in  Aatoriaa, 
the  atrata  are  raiaed  and  often  TertieaL  DeTonian  rocka  are  well  de- 
Teloped  in  the  N.  and  S.  of  Almaden,  and  appear  alternately  with  l^nrian 
atrata.  The  foaaila  are  fonnd  in  grindstone  and  limeatone,  more  rarely 
in  achiata.  The  principal  are :  Ptoduehu  mbaeuleahti^  Sqaitna  duUrini, 
Spirifir  vemeulif  TerebrahUa  eaneentricOf  etc  The  npper  Silarian 
rocka  are  not  ao  fnUy  repreaented  aa  the  Deronian.  There  are  tracea 
aome  19  milea  NJB.  of  Cbrdova.  Bat  the  lower  Silarian  rocka  are  well 
characteriaed  in  tlua  range  and  the  Montea  de  Toledo.  They  follow  an 
ascendant  direction,  N.  to  S.  The  lower  atrata  are  compoaed  of  achiata 
and  prammitea,  then  comea  a  thick  maaa  of  qaartate,  not  onlike  the 
Stiperatone  foond  near  Oaradoa  Thia  rock  forma  the  aammita  or  edgea, 
extending  from  E.  to  W.,  and  alao  10*"  to  16*  N.,  10"*  to  W.,  or  IS*"  a 
At  their  baae  are  aitoated  the  rich  qoickailTer  minea  of  Almaden.  The 
Silarian  foaaila  are  foand  in  dark-coloored  achiata.  The  trilobitea  are 
better  preaerred ;  the  principal  are  :  Calymene,  Triatani,  Aaaphoa 
nobiliSy  Dalmania,  Phillipsii  etc 

1.  Ouadarrama  Baw^ — Towards  the  S.  and  E.  slopes  &rboniferoas 
schists  are  met,  especially  near  Tsmi^on,  Yaldesotos,  Betienda,  and 
Sierra  of  Baigos,  where  there  are  also  traces  of  vegetable  fossilB  (ferns). 
Fossil  deposits  are  foand  also  on  the  way  from  Hinarejos  (province  of 
Caenca)  to  the  coal-mines  of  El  Vapor,  at  the  points  called  *  £1  Castel- 
lano/  and  *  El  Oerro  del  Hierro '  (the  Devonian  rocks  contain  iron  here 
as  well  as  in  the  CSantabrio  range).  The  principal  fossils  are :  DaUnania 
(cryphtnu)  OaUitelet^  Spirifir ^  TttAratula  guenxngeri^  Ltpktna  mur- 
eMionif  etc  The  Qnadarrama  range  crosses  obliqaely  the  great  central 
plateaa  of  Spain.  It  is  one  of  the  highest  and  laigest  in  Uus  eoantry. 
The  gneiM  and  other  crystalline  schists  that  compose  it  are  often  mixed 
with  granite  These  represent  some  of  the  earliest  rocks  in  Spain. 
According  to  Sr.  Cas.  del  Piado,  the  crystalline  rocks  are  crowned,  to- 
wards the  east,  by  schists  and  qnartzine  rocks,  Silarian  in  all  likelihood. 
Bilobites  and  saccharoid  limestone  are  foond.  The  strata  of  limestone 
which  flank  the  Sierra  have  been  by  oscillation  raised  and  again  distorted 
by  another,  posterior  to  the  miocene  period ;  and  this  explains  the 
derangement  of  the  deposits  of  that  epoch.  The  ranges  that  frame  the 
Peninsola  to  north  and  sooth  are  the  most  modem. 


OB0L0aT«  Iziii 

The  Junnio  locks  are  not  generally  as  well  represented  as  the 
tertiaiy  depodts  and  limestone.  Those  in  the  prorince  of  Caenca,  Va- 
lencia,  of  Bmgos,  eta,  are  interesting.  A  reiy  rich  region  of  Jurassic 
fossilB  is  aitoaied  north  of  Molina;  and  beyond  the  Silnrian  axis  of 
Pttdos,  Conchay  Anchnela  del  Oampoi  Maranchon,  eta,  are  worth  yisit- 
ing.  All  the  species  belong  to  the  lias,  and  none  indicate  the  presence 
of  Oxfordshire  rocka  *-  There  are  104  Jurassic  fossils  in  Spain.  The  lias 
and  Oxfordshire  stages  are  fonnd  in  the  jnrassic  soiL  Tlie  latter  extend 
over  the  east  and  south  portions  of  Spain — Oaitalonia,  Valencia,  Malaga, 
Bonda,  and  lie  upon  red  sandstone. 

Tlu  Oantabrie  ran^  or  prolongation  of  the  Fyrenean  system. — ^Here 
Devonian  rocks  contain  great  Palnoioio  riches.  The  Deronian  period 
must  haye  been  probably  accompanied  by  great  displacements  of  the  sea, 
for  the  deposits  are  of  sandstone  and  conglomerates.  Bed  sandstone,  in 
thick  masses,  seems  to  be  the  base  in  Spain  of  the  Deyonian  system. 
They  are  impregnated  with  iron ;  whence  tiie  establishments  of  Mieres  in 
Astuiias,  and  of  Sabero  in  Leon.  The  sandstone  rocks  are  surmounted 
with  thick  calcareous  rocks,  which  form  those  sharp  indented  peaks  of  so 
picturesque  an  effect  in  the  plains  of  Castile.  The  road  from  Leon  to 
bviedo  is  very  interesting  to  geologists.  The  districts  that  are  richer  in 
fossils  are :  Sabero  in  Leon,  and  Ferrones  and  Avil^  in  Asturias.  Of 
these  three  there  are  about  seyenty-seyen  species  known.  They  are 
indicatiye  of  the  base  of  the  Devonian  soil,  and  constitute  the  Qerman 
'  Alterer  Qrauwacke.*  The  upper  portion  of  this  soil  is  composed  of  red 
limestone.  There  are  also  schists  near  Sabero  and  the  fossil  Gardiutn 
palmakun  goldfield.  Tlie  Devonian  rocks  extend  over  most  of  the  south 
portion  of  the  Cantabrio  range,  in  the  province  of  Leon.  Its  fuller 
development  is  towards  the  north  region  of  Asturias,  and  lies  to  the  east 
under  the  carboniferous  strata.  The  longitudinal  axis  of  the  Pyrenees  is 
surrounded  by  cretaceous  deposits.  On  the  north  slopes,  from  Font- 
arabia,  across  San  Sebastian  to  Cape  Penas,  the  sea-coast  is  flanked  by 
limestone  cUfb,  the  strata  sink  under  the  sea,  rise  against  the  Cantabric 
axiSy  not  without  irregularity  and  dislocations.  From  north  to  south  the 
cretaceous  deposits  extend  112  m.  These  abound  mostly  in  the  north 
of  Spain,  and  are  seldom  met  in  the  south,  except  near  Malaga.  The 
most  important  carboniferous  deposits  in  Spain  are  situated  on  the  two 
slopes  of  this  range,  especially  in  Asturias.  The  base  is  formed  by  thick 
limestone,  very  Ij^e  Devonian  rocks,  and  not  unlike  the  scar  limestone  in 
the  north  of  England.  Above  this  tiiere  are  some  thin  banks  of  the  same 
alternately  found  with  the  first  coal  strata.  In  these  are  found  well- 
preserved  marine  fossils,  such  as  the  Produettu  demireticulattu,  Produetui 
pu$ietatu$,  ProduduB  eora,  Spirifer,  JfosqumM,  etc,  and  the  Fusulina 
cjfUndnca.  The  fossil  plants  belong  to  the  ordinary  flora  found  in  most 
carboniferous  deposits.    Above  are  conglomerates  and  sandstone  mixed 


xziy  OKNKRAL  INTOBMATION. 

with  dBj  tdiista,  to  a  depUi  of  2000  to  8000  mton.  Tlien  are  mora 
than  80  eoal-bedib  The  itnitiflMtion  it  isr^gnkry  and  tiie  atrata  often 
xaiaed  np  to  a  yextical  poaition.  The  Hakn  tearenea  the  richest  por- 
tion. The  chalky  which  fionna  tiie  baae,  riaea  to  the  anrnmlta  of  the 
Ountahrio  or  Aatoiian  range,  and  conatitntea  the  hiUa  of  Cabraleay 
Oovadonga,  the  pieaehoi  (or  peaka)  tU  Bwnpa^  aa  fur  aa  tiie  aea,  near 
RibadeadUy  then  eontinnea  to  the  eaat  hj  tiie  proTinoe  of  Santander  and 
Pudenda.  According  to  acTeral  diatingoiahed  geologiata  (Mr.  Foibeiy  etc.), 
Ireland  mnat  have  heen  once  joined,  or  Teiy  nearly  ao,  to  Spain,  and  to 
that  canae  is  aacribed  the  aimHarify  between  portiona  of  the  flcna  and 
liMma  of  theae  two  ooontriea 

Heights  of  the  Prinoipal  Bangea. 

Spaniik  J^ntua,  East, 

PeakN^dioii,  Ii,i68  ft. 
Monte  Perdido,  10,994  ft. 
La  Msladetta,  10,866  ft. 

Past  d'oo,  between  iraHejs  of  Laibooste  and  de  Lasserm  (V^nasqne),  9843  ft 
Pass  of  Bidsa,  between  iraHejs  of  Neste  d'Hone  (Aiagon),  and  of  Pner- 
Udas,  8396  ft. 

Spanish  fyraua,  Wat,  cr  CasUahric  {Ashtrian)  Ras%ge, 

Pefia  de  Pefiaranda  (Leon),  11,031  ft.  (1) 

Peak  of  Pefiameiata,  9450  ft. 

Cibn  de  Pojales  (Ssntsnder),  4559  ft. 

Puerto  del  Rey  (Pror.  of  Jaen),  2251  (anth.  Betanoonrt). 

(xHadafTaituu 

Peaalarm  (Segoria),  8240  (anth.  BandL). 

Monte  del  Leon  de  los  2  CastiUas  (Pror.  of  Madrid),  4657. 

Cdm  de  Moodalindo  (Pror.  Gandalajarm),  6045  (<^<^  Bansi), 

Peak  of  Siena  Cdx>lleia  (ProT.  Soria),  6029  (anth.  Conde  de  AHOa  Fuentes). 

Siete  Picos  (Segoria),  7298  (anth.  Bsiisa). 

Sierra  Nioada^ 
Mula  Hacen  (Granada)  11,781  (anth.  Clemente). 
Picacho  de  U  Veleta  (Granada)  11,597  (anth.  Clemente). 
Alberea  de  Dnefias,  6272  it  (anth.  R.  Clemente). 
Sierra  Gador,  7130  ft  (R.  Clemente). 

Lower  line  of  snow  on  Sierra  Nevada  (15th  August  1804),  9064  ft  (anth. 
R.  Clemente. 

Pefias  Blancas,  7605  ft  (anth.  R.  Clemente). 

For  odMr  hdfhts  of  Siena  Neradft  to* 


ror  otner  Bewiin  or  swna  MenMU  too  Wft  aoa. 
Sm  dM  fcr  «  aora  umit  Ust  of  ItAAsM,  btddos  BauiA'i,  ttat  poblislMd  about  1S31  by  tbt 
8ociMd«G«)gn4aiioorj>a^,b'Oralogio"        '    *  r-~~ 


Bilbao,  73  ft 
Gtanada,  968x  ft. 


Hbight  or  tons  Crrtis. 


Gibraltar  (RocfcX  •94  ft 
Binfos.  ^3  ft  Jcvvs,  571  ft. 

EmwH  3683  ft.  Ma^  §384  ft. 

Granada,  968x  ft.  M orda.  44T  ft 


Vaincui,95ft. 
Zarifwa,  SgQft 


mMBS.  XXV 

Bosks  rf  Reftrmu. — 'Ap«mtopara  la  Historia  Natural  Espafiola,*  by  J. 
Tonubia;  Madrid,  1754;  and  Bowles*  excellent  work  on  the  same  subject; 
Bfadrid,  1775;  a  French  translation;  Paris,  1776.  B017  de  St  Vincent'* 
'  Guide  dn  Voyigeor  en  Espagne^'  1S23,  is  too  q>eculative. 

ffimtwHum.  *De  Hispanise  Coostitutione  Geognostica  Dissertatio ;'  Got- 
tingen,  1829 ;  and  hb  papers,  '  Sur  la  Constitutioin  G^oL  de  TEsptgne,'  in  the 
*  Annalei  des  Mines,'  ad  series,  toL  viL  p.  375. 

Btmm.  *  Table  of  Heights  of  various  Points  of  Spain;'  *  Journal  of  the 
Ro3ral  Gepgnphical  Society,'  voL  it  p.  269 ;  183a ;  and  his  '  Altura  de  algunos 
Pantos'  (« Boletm  Ofidal,'  1844). 

Cook  (S.  £.)— '  Sketches  in  Spain ;'  2  toIs.  8?o,  Phris,  1834. 

TirailL  <  On  the  Geology  of  Spain ;'  'Report  of  the  British  Association ;' 
ToL  VL|>.  70;  1837. 

A^  Moisirt,  *  Obsenradones  sobre  lot  Terrenos  Toldbicos  de  la  Peninsula,' 
in  the  '  Boletin  Ofidal  de  Minas,' p.  117;  1844. 

Btrrt]^,     *  Snr  les  TremUements  de  Terre  de  la  P^ninsule  Ib^que ;'  '  Ann.  de 
la  Soc.  d'Agric  de  Ljon;'  1847. 

Eopurra  dd  Bayo.  *  On  tiie  Geology  of  Spain,'  '  Quart  Joum.,'  toL  ▼{., 
185a  By  the  same :  *Estructura  Geologica  de  Espafia;'  Memorias  de  la  Real 
Academia  de  Ciendas  de  Bfadrid;'  1850;  toI.  ix.  Consult,  besides,  the 
'  Memoirs  of  the  Madrid  and  Barcelona  Academy  of  Sciences,'  Mados's  and 
MinaBo^s 'Dictionaries.' 

M.  VemeuO's  '  Coop  d'oeil  sur  la  Constitution  g^ologique  de  plusieurs  Prov. 
de  I'EqMgne ;'  Paris,  1853 ;  has  senred  prindpally  as  Sie  ground-work  for  the 
above  brief  summary.  This  able  French  geologist,  who  was  Sir  Roderick  I. 
Mnrdiison's  ooUaborateur  in  Russia,  has  latdy  pubUshed  a  large  and  complete 
geological  map  of  Spain,  the  only  one  to  refer  to.  The  Spanish  Government 
engineers  are  also  preparing  one,  vriiich  b  to  be  soon  published.  There  are 
already  published  the  maps  of  the  Province  of  Madrid,  by  Prado ;  of  the  Pro- 
vince of  Santander,  after  Codlo's  Geographical  Map ;  of  the  Province  of  Puigos, 
after  Lopet'k  similar  woric  Wilkomm's  '  Die  Strand,'  etc.,  on  the  Steppes  of 
the  Peninsula  (Ldpsig^  1852)  contains  a  inap ;  useftd  also  to  botanists. 


Tmi  milling  wealth  of  Spain  has  been  always  far  fiuned.  The  Pho»- 
nidaoa  were  tiie  fint  people  who  worked  the  ezhanstlefls  mines  of 
Tnshish  (Andalusia),  and  tiie  aoooonts  of  writen  such  as  Strabo  (book 
iiL)y  Oridi  Sicolosi  Jnstan,  Pliny,  etc.,  do  but  confirm,  if  it  were  needfdl, 
the  descriptions  of  the  Spanish  mines  which  we  find  in  Scripture 
(1  Maoe.  TiiL  3  ;  1  Kings  z.  81 ;  Jer.  z.  9,  etc.)  Loye  of  gold  has  been 
ofteui  almost  always,  the  prime  mover  of  all  projects  of  conquest,  war, 
and  disooreiy,  and  Spain  was  the  Peru  of  the  Ptonicians  and  B<nnans. 
When  Amfirica  was  disooyered,  a  narrow  policy  prohibited  the  working 
of  the  Spanish  mines,  and  exclnsiTely  faroared  those  of  the  New  World. 
The  qtridnlTer  mines  of  Almaden  were  exempted,  becanse  they  sent  to 
Mexioo  yearly  6000  to  6000  quintals  of  ore  (quintal  =  10^  lbs.),  nece»> 


ZXYl  OKNSRAL  mFOBMATION. 

•aiy  for  the  extiactioii  of  the  predoiu  metala.  Qorenunent  had  'the 
monopoly  of  mines  until  1820,  when  it  ceased.  The  precious  metals 
imported  bj  the  Qovemment  from  America  between  1498  and  1803 
amounted  to  the  Talue  of  ninety  millions  of  dollars,  according  to 
Humboldt  and  Ustsrii.  The  consequent  stimulus  given  to  the  mining 
interest  was  soon  felt.  Thus,  before  1820,  the  Boyal  ofidmai  only  pro* 
duced  30,000  to  40,000  quintak  a-year.  in  1823  the  produce  rose  to 
600,000  quintals.  In  1824  the  mining  legiBbtion  was  assimilated  to 
that  of  France.  In  1826  there  were  more  than  3500  mines  being 
worked  in  the  Sierras  of  Qadar  and  Lagar  alone,  and  in  1827  the  produce 
exceeded  800,000  quintals.  Mining  schools  {EteueUu  de  Miruu)  were 
established  at  Almaden  and  Madrid.  Several  young  men  were  sent  to 
study  the  most  approved  systems  at  Freyberg,  in  SiuEony,  eta  Foreign 
capitalists  have  undertaken  the  working  la  e$plataeion  of  several  of  the 
richest  mines  ;  foreign  machinery,  worked  by  foreign  miners,  has  been 
introduced,  and  the  wealth  derived  has  been  very  considerable.  The 
mining  fever  or  mania  commenced  to  rage  here  about  1825,  just  when  it 
was  in  the  wane  in  England.  Many,  most  indeed,  of  the  managers  of 
the  companies  formed  in  the  outset  were  ignorant,  rash,  over-confident, 
and  in  many  cases  dishonourable.  Companies  benme  hotbeds  of  law- 
suits and  compromises,  and,  like  the  augurs  of  old,  two  managers  could 
not  meet  each  other  without  a  laugh.  This  mania  has  subsided  into  a 
more  business-like  syvtem,  and  the  lesson  has  been  profitable  to  aU.  The 
importatbn  of  Spanish  ores  to  England  is  very  oondderable.  Almost  all 
the  mercury  supplied  to  England  is  derived  from  Spain.  .  The  imports 
usually  amount  to  from  2^,000,000  to  3,000,000  lbs. 

Spain  in  1860  exported  minerals  to  the  value  of  21,016,614r. — vi& 
2,418,433  quintals,  and  twenty  times  as  much  might  be  easily  exported 
were  tramways  and  roads  established.  The  improved  process  for 
smelting,  eta,  will  also  augment  the  produce.  Thua  recently  Uie  Spanish 
homo  tooncmico  (economic^  furnace)  has  been  substituted  for  the  slag 
hearth,  etc. ;  by  this  a  better  produce  of  Uad  is  obtained  from  the  refuse 
produ<^  of  the  mines.  Again,  a  great  deal  of  Uad  and  mZmt  is  saved 
by  Pattinson's  desilvering  process ;  and  when  Mr.  Burnett  applied  sue- 
cessfdlly  the  process  introduced  by  Mr.  Richardson  at  Blaydon  Qiard  lead 
converted  into  soft  lead  by  calcining)  to  the  softening  of  Spanish  lead, 
this  discovery  led  to  a  very  extensive  trade  between  England  and  Spain. 
The  ores  on  the  east  coast  of  Spain  are  smelted  with  Newcastle  coal,  and 
the  hard  lead  is  brought  to  England  to  be  there  softened  and  refined. 
Our  imports  in  1861  were  of  23,109  tons,  mostly  from  linares.  The 
lead  contains  little  silver,  the  average  is  about  40  os.  per  ton,  whilst  that 
of  England  yields  50  os.  per  ton.  There  is  also  importation  into  England 
from  Spain  of  cupreous  pyrites,  used  by  alcali-miJLen  for  the  manufro* 
tore  of  sulphuric 


MIN1E& 


XXYU 


In  1860  there  were  in  Spain  1988  prodaetiTe  mines — that  is,  that 
are  woiked ;  the  area  they  occupy  is  820,389,368  square  metres.  There 
were  3894  perteneneioB,  or  rights  of  mining  properties.  28,664  work- 
men employed,  and  thirty-nine  steam-enginee.    The  produce  was : — 


IfkaraL 

'S^ 

Matric 

MmoaL 

Principal 
Miaea. 

Metric 
Qomtab. 

Laad.    . 
Sh«r.    . 

Pk-ooal  .    . 
Solpbnr.    . 

Almcna 
Almcna 
GoadaUan 
HMlva 

GoVOKOft 

Oriedo 
Mania 

«.75S.<»9 
3,168,189 

4^300 
1,460^094 

»7S.309 

3.««7f73« 

*30^45o 

BarOk    .    . 

Antunony 
Ziae   .    .    . 
Qukksihrer . 
Asphalte.    . 
Maqgaiieae. 

Madrid 

Zamon 

Santander 

Oviedo 

Alava 

Hudvft 

•"•IS 

s,o88,oM 
a88,6a8 

The  produce  ohtained  by  the  extraction  of  quicksilyer  at  Almaden, 
eupreous  pyrites  of  Bio  Tinto  and  Qalena  of  Linares,  employing  3844 
wodanen,  was : — (Quintals  2  cwts.) 

Qaiatala. 
QotcksaYer   .  7f38a33 

Copper         ....        9,044.94 
Lead 22,264.79 


Valoa  ia  laali. 
13.559.938.53 

7.  "8,353.00 

3,264,815.1a 


ToUd 


38,69ao6  33»953>io6.65 


Hellin  has  produced  1984  quintals  of  sulphur.  The  salt,  a  great 
monopoly,  amounted  to  3,916,919*02  quintals,  Talue  of  11 1,849,561*1 4r. 
The  total  rerenue  of  the  Qoremment  from  its  own  mines,. and  contri- 
butions from  others,  amounts  to  140,061, 7 18*37r. 

The  miner  and  mineralogist  should  yisit  principally  the  mines  of 
Almaden,  Linares,  Bio  Tinto,  Logrosan,  the  salt  pans  of  Minglanilla,  the 
coal-fields  of  Qgon,  and  marble  quarries  of  Granada  and  l£icaeL  The 
best  season  is  spring  and  summer.  An  order  from  the  Ministerio  de 
Fomento  will  be  requisite  to  Tisit  the  Qorerhment  establishments.  The 
cdUection  at  the  Madrid  Museo  de  EKstoria  Natural  is  one  of  the  finest 
in  Europe,  and  that  of  the  Escuela  de  Minas  at  Madrid  will  not  frdl  to 
interest  mineralogists. 

B40Jb  tf  R^rm€t.^B09Us  'Natural  History  of  Spain.'  Excellent,  and 
wludi  has  led  to  the  disoorery  of  sereral  filoncs. 

H^ppentaek^  'Carte  des  FOoni  d' Almaden.' 

CM^,  '  M^m.  tor  le  Sd  de  Cardooe,'  in  '  Annales  des  Mines,'  toL  fi.  p. 
179  (181 7).  In  the  same  reriew,  Brongniart^s  'Paper  on  the  Magnetite  of 
Valkcas,'  toL  riil  year  1821. 

Etfturrm  dei  Bajw,  Bmmaa^  etc,  '  Minas  de  Carbon  de  Piedra  de  Astorias,' 
widiauM^  8to;  Madrid,  1831. 

Z^k&^, 'ObsenratioossQrrHitt  Nat  et  la  Richene  Min^rale  de  I'Espagne  ;* 
Fnis,  1834;  I  YoL 


ZZVm  OBNSRAL  INVOBMAIION. 

J?.  CakmiUat^  <Sobre  las  Bfinat  de  Almaden,'  'An.  de  Bfinat'  (Spanish), 
▼oL  i.  1838,  and  Es.  dd  Bayo's  details  in  the  Ftaich  'BnlL  des  Mines,'  ist 
geiiesy  1839. 

Amor  deta  Tom^  <Bfhias  de  Anfire  de  HeQiq,*  <An.  de  Minas,'Tol.  it 
1841. 

Saupogg^  *  Obsenrations  snr  la  ProYinoe  de  'Mnrde  et  snr  les  Minerals 
Aigentifbvs,  etc.,'  'Ann.  des  Mines,'  4th  series,  1843. 

JPtmoOd^  'Mines  et  Fonderies  da  Midi  de  I'Eqpagne,'  'Ann.  des  Mines,' 
4th  series,  toL  ix.  1846. 

C.  diJPtmb,  'Mines  de  Ahnaden;'  Bfadrid,  1846. 

BmrU^  *  Sur  le  Tenain  m^tallii^  de  I'EqMgne,'  in  the  'Institvt,'  1846. 

ViadanOt  '  Terrenos  anriferos  de  la  Pror.  de  Leon,'  '  Revista  Minera,'  voL 
L,  185a 

The  existence  of  gold-mines  in  Spain  b  an  old  &Toorite  dream  with 
Spaniards.  Besides  the  supposed  Callfomia,  said  to  lie  hidden  in  the  barnmoos 
near  Granada,  there  are  other  portions  of  the  Peninsola  that  ha^e  attracted 
some  attention.  See  the  papers  of  Maestie,  Naruijo  7  Gana,  etc,  in  '  Rer. 
Miners,'  185a 

G.  CamtaUpkdra^  'Salinas  de  MinglanOla,'  'Rer.  Ifin.,'  vol  iiL  1852. 
Also'Guiadel 


Olimata. 

Tmi  dimate  of  Spain  baa  not  been  aa  jet  snificiently  studied.  It  is 
superior  in  all  leepects  to  that  of  Italj^  being  more  sonthenii  more 
sheltered  firom  the  north  winds  by  the  elevated  siema  running  east  and 
west,  and  charactwriiwd  by  a  more  bracing,  genial  atmosphere.  If  we 
daasify  the  more  important  medical  stations  according  to  the  preyalent 
•tmoapherio  influence,  we  shall  divide  Spain  into  three  main  lonea. 

1.  Erciting  tlimatea,  such  as  thoee  of  Nice,  Montpellier,  Florence, 
Naples — ^in  Spain,  AlioanJU^  Jiala^ti^  Valeneia,  Cadis,  Senile, 

2.  Sedatiye,  such  aa  Pan,  Rome,  Arcachon,  etc — Ft^,  Chratuuta^ 
Bandcna, 

3.  Relaxing,  such  as  Madeira,  Pisa,  etc — Omedo,  Q^on  and  all  the 
north-west  coast 

Thermometrical  and  barometrical  obsenrations  are  no  doubt  very 
reliable  indicators  of  the  climate,  but  statistica  in  Spain  are  not  sufficiently 
advanced  to  allow  us  to  gather  any  series  of  data.  IdUitude,  again,  is  not 
always  the  only  rule  to  go  by.  Altitude,  situation,  and  soil,  are  so 
many  oonsiderations  to  which  attention  must  be  drawn  before  a  medical 
station  be  decided.  The  warm,  sunny,  still  air  that  is  constantly  breathed 
in  Spain ;  the  pure  crystalline  water  that  is  drunk  ;  the  doudlees,  deep- 
blue  sky ;  the  wholesome  dry  wines,  without  acidity ;  the  quiet  life  that 
is  usually  led ;  all  contribute  most  powerfully  to  bring  relief — often  to 
cure. 

• 

The  dimate  of  Spain  will  benefit  more  generally  patients  sufiering 


GLOCATK 


from  eonsiimptioiii  broncfaitiBy  and  djspepeia.  The  seleetbn  of  a  place  of 
iwidenee  it  moat  inapoitanti  aa  miatakea  arismg  firom  haafcjr  deciaiona,  or 
an  imperfeel  aoquaiiiiaace  with  the  peculiarities  of  eachy  bring  with  them 
fatal  eonaeqnenoea.    We  sabjoin  a  list  of  the  best  works  to  coosolt  on 

MeriaU^  TMe,  showing  tiie  proportion  of  deaths  to  the  munber  of 
the  pqpnlatioii  in  some  of  the  priiMdpal  medical  stations  :— 


In  London 
Pkris 
Yienna 
Rome 
Naples 


Berlin 


I  in  40  diet  amuitllx. 
I  »>  3> 

I  m34 


In  Nice 
Pan 
Bfadrid 
Mtltga 
Baroeloiia 
Valenda 
Alicante 


I  in  31  diet  aimiuillj. 
I  >•  45 


I  >i  45 
I  .»  26 
I  >t  2$ 
I  »39 
I  »  31 
I  „  a6 


ft 
t» 
ft 
ft 
ti 


Mum  Temf$ratmt  of  some  of  the  principal  medical  stations. 


IMSMfa^ 

WiBlar. 

opnog. 

SlUBBMf* 

AtttUM. 

Fahr. 

Pfthr 

Pahr. 

Pahr. 

44 

50 

61 

53 

Fan  . 

41 

54 

70 

37 

Rome 

49 

57 

12 

63 

Nice. 

47 

56 

72 

61 

Maddim    • 

60 

6a 

69 

67 

Malaga     • 

55 

68 

80 

61 

The  ammal  amoimt  of  imin  mt — 


Nice       It  of  a6  indiet 
Madeira  „    ig 
Rome      »»    29 


»» 


»t 


London  It  ofay  incliet. 


Torqnaj  is  of  28  inchet 
Mali«a     ,,     151 

Pm  »»    43 


»t 


»» 


IhTalida  ahoold  nndertake  the  joom^  to  Spain  about  the  middle  of 
September^  at  that  season  when  atmospheric  changes  become  more 
aenriUe  in  Thgland|  and  when  acclimatisation  in  so  different  a  latitude  is 
more  eaallj  eiiiBCtedy  the  great  summer  heat  baring  then  considerably 
snbaided  in  manj  points.  After  a  wintei^s  residence  in  a  Spaniah 
medical  atatkm,  we  mi^  be  permitted  to  recommend,  on  good  anthority, 
to  aToid  by  all  means  a  sudden  change  by  a  hasty  and  untimely  return 
to  Th'gl^**^!  or  any  other  country  wi^  a  similar  dimate.  The  transition 
might  be  made  gradually  by  xeridences  at  Serille,  Qranada,  or  Barcelona, 
or  ai  Nice,  Pau,  or  Mentou. 

The  best  authorities  on  the  climate  of  Spain  are  the  following : — 


XZX  OBNIRAL  INPOBlUnON. 

'  Gbuige  tt  dinuUo,'  eta,  with  an  Aecomit  of  th«  matt  eligible  PUcea 
of  Reaideiice  for  IsTilida  in  Spain,  Poitngal,  iJgeria,  et&,' 
Br  D.  J.  T.  Fnnds,  HJ). ;  London,  1863. 

'  Du  Clinut  da  I'Eapagne  tone  le  Bapport  Hidieal,'  pu 
le   Docteni  E,  CueoATe   (an   Eanz   Bcmnee  phjiidBn) ; 

Puis,  isea. 

'  Spun  and  ita  Climates,'  by  Edwin  Lee,  E*q. ;  London 
186S. 

'  Efemeiidei  BaiamJfaneo-HMieaa-Matritenaes,'  I7  Dta. 
Naran^te,  etc.  See  also  '  Hemoriaa  de  U  Real  Academi*- 
Hidiea-Uatritenie.' 

'  Topogiafla  Midiea,'  etc,  b7  Dr.  V.  Haitinei  j  Uontes  ; 
4to.  Malaga,  I80S.  Yerj  ralnable  to  the  invalid  who 
•electa  Mala^ 

UiniJio's  '  Dicdonario  de  Eepula  j  Poitngal,'  Madoi'a 
'  Diccionario,'  and  the' Alio  Clinico  deC^mgia,'  etc.,  contain 
ireatbei-tableB,  which  aaj  be  consulted. 

Meteorological  obeerrations  are  made  all  orer  Spain 
with  great  care  and  intelligence,  and  aent  hj  telegraph 
dailj  Irom  the  difierent  stations  to  tlie  central  one,  the 
Royal  ObaerratoTf  at  Madrid,  and  published  in  the  official 
'Gaceta.' 

Miteonlcffy  is  not  a  novel  adence  in  Spain..   Those 

cnruHiB  to  know  more  of  this  matter,  and  become  acquainted 

with  aome  now  almaet-forgotten  Spanish  meteorologists  (tee 

Cat  Fib.      Salvb  PiBolver,  Ganido,  etc.),  may  consult  the  interestiDg 

'  Eatndios  Meteorologicoa  del  Siglo  XVIII.,'  by  Mannel  Bico  Sinoraa  1 

Madrid,  18B8. 

cenvipondmf  d eares  of  the  Ceadgrado  kod  F*hmilicit 
C  Ctiitwnde :  F.  F^hrenheU. 

Mineral  Springa  and  Sea-bftthing. 
'  Of  all  the  coontriea  in  Europe,  Spain  ia  the  richest  in  mineral 
springs.'  Such  is  Dr.  Cazenave's  opinion,  and  that  of  eTery  competent 
person  who  hat  studied  the  subject ;  and  when  rommnnicationt  are 
rendered  more  easy,  and  the  accommodation  improred,  the  celebrated 
springe  of  Germany  and  France  will  meet  with  considerable  competition. 
There  are  upwards  of  2000  springa^that  is,  83S  more  than  in  France. 
Of  these,  eighty  only  are  placed  under  a  medical  inspector.  "Hie  bathiog 
alahUcimienlM  are,  generally  speaking,  defective,  and  the  comforts  attend- 
ing a  core  made  at  Luchoo,  Vichy,  Carlsbad,  Swalbach,  etc,  are  totally 
wanting  here.  But  the  efficacy  of  the  water,  and  that  ia  the  piincip^ 
object  in  view,  is  very  great      ^e  Romans  and  Bloon,  IKith  gteot 


MINXRAL  SPBIMOa  ZZXl 

bfttheiBy  and  wbo  would  not,  therefore,  have  nndentood  the  Spanish 
advice,  'De  loe  cnarenta  airiba,  no  te  mojes  la  barziga,'  knew  many 
•piingi  and  zestored  to  them ;  and  they  have  left  vestiges  of  their  pre- 
ference. Thns,  Alhama,  a  word  applied  to  many  springs,  is  the  Arab 
*Al  Adm^n*  (Alhama  de  Aragon,  Alhama  de  Oianada);  and  Oaldas, 
from  the  Roman  CaHikUf  is  foond  in  others,  '  Caldas  de  Monboy,  Oaldas 
de  Beyes,  CUdetas,  etc  The  best  season  to  go  to  the  Ba&os  is  June  to 
September.  The  establishments  belong  eiUier  to  the  State,  private 
individuals,  or  companies.  There  is  usually  great  cleanliness,  and  whole- 
some food  is  to  be  expected. 

The  most  renowned  among  Spanish  mineral  springs  are  the  follow- 
ing:— AUamaf  near  Qranada,  Carratraea^  Alhama  (de  Aragon),  Fa$Uicoia, 
Cmiona,  Anekaoaleta,  AUda,  'THUo,  d  Molar,  Calda$  de  MMu^  (the 
hottest,  66  B^anmur — saline). 

Sea-bathing  can  be  enjoyed  during,  summer  and  autumn  on  the  N.W. 
coasts  of  Spain,  at  Q^on,  Santander,  Bilbao  (Poitugalete),  and  Zaraus,  a 
wild  little  Quipuicoan  hamlet  near  San  Sebastian.  The  latter  is  Uie 
most  £sshionable  sea-side  resort  in  Spain.  On  the  shores  of  the  Medi*  * 
terranean  there  is  excellent  sea-bathing  at  Valencia,  Malaga,  Alicante, 
and  Barcelona.  The  most  fsshionable  is  the  CabaikU  of  Valencia.  More 
south,  the  bathing  and  bathing  eitabUeimiento  of  Oadis  will  tempt 
amateoxs.  There  are,  of  course,  differences  in  the  temperature,  mineml 
composition,  etc,  of  the  two  seas.  The  Mediterranean  waters  are  warmer, 
less  agitated,  and  contain  a  greater  proportion  of  chlorine  of  magnesium 
(8*86  mate),  etc,  than  the  Atlantic.  The  wave  is  often  imperceptible 
on  the  Meditenanean  coasts ;  and  swimmers  have  never  any  distance  to 
go  to  meet  the  open  sea.  The  Meditenanean  water  acts,  also,  as  a 
sedative,  and  must  be  preferred  by  certain  temperaments,  weak  con- 
stitutions ;  whilst  the  Atlantic  is  exciting,  produces  great  and  sudden 
reaction,  and  its  use  requires  especial  constitutions.  There  are  no 
bathing-machines,  but  thatched  huts,  tents,  or  barraques,  made  of  boards. 
The  h^  during  summer  at  Alicante  and  Malsga  is  too  intense  to  allow 
-bathing  to  be  beneficial.     Autumn  would  be  a  more  appropriate 


Botany 

As  a  idence,  has  been  very  much  neglected  in  Spain,  as  the  scarcity  of 
worics  on  the  subject  amply  testifies.  The  Sptoiard  is  not  fond  of 
^ardmu,  in  our  sense  of  the  word,  ahd  Jardine$  are  more  seldom  heard 
and  seen  than  kuertoi  (huertoi  also,  from  hortus), '  orchards.'  That  there 
were  Botanical  Gardens  in  the  time  of  the  Moors  there  is  litttle  doubt, 
and  that  of  King  Nasr,  at  Oadis,  under  the  direction  of  the  botanist  Al 
Shafr^h,  is  mentioned  more  than  once.  Medicine,  as  usual,  iutrouuced 
the  establishment  of  Botanical  Gardens,  and  Doctor  Loguna,  in  1666,  in 


XZZU  OKNSRAL  INVOBMATION. 

his  tnnaUtioii  of  Dioflooridety  which  he  dedicated  to  Philip  IL,  entreats 
the  king  to  found  one,  which  he  cnriouBlj  aajs  would  turn  to  the  benefit 
of  nil  Majesty's  heidth,  besides  enconnging  'la  disciplina  herbaria.' 
Hus  request  was  acceded  to,  and  a  portion  of  the  Arai^jues  gardens  was 
allotted  to  that  object  Subseqnentlj  were  formed  the  private  gardens 
of  Simou  Tovar  (1596),  Oortavillay  and  Jaime  Salvador,  who,  at  Uie  end 
ot  the  17th  centory  foxmed  a  most  remarkable  one  at  San  Joan  d'Bsp^, 
on  the  banks  of  the  Llobregat,  and  whose  herbarj  (at  Bareebna)  is  one 
of  the  most  interesting,  and  contains  a  goodly  collection  of  plants  sent  to 
him  by  his  friends  Toomefort^  Boerhaave,  Jossieu,  etc,  with  the  latter 
of  whom  he  botanised  in  l^win.  A  Botanical  Garden  was  established  at 
Seville  in  the  beginning  of  the  18th  century.  That  established  at 
Madrid  by  Qner,  1766,  was  augmented  by  the  addition  of  the  French 
botanist  Bigneur's  collection.  The  present  one  was  founded  by  Charles 
nL,  in  1774.  Several  were  subsequently  formed,  and  are  still  kept  up, 
though  rather  neglected  and  weedy.  The  principal  are  at  Madrid,  Val- 
encia, Baroelonai  The  most  important  Spanish  botanical  treatises  of 
early  times  are  included  in  books  of  medicine,  as  botany  formed  part  of 
pharmaiy.  The  botany  of  Spain,  although  imperfectly  known,  is  very 
varied  and  rich,  the  range  extending  over  all  the  lones  of  vegetation 
known,  from  the  fdngus,  Uredo  nivalii^  found  under  the  graders  of  the 
Pyrenees,  to  tropical  plants,  such  as  the  sogar-cane,  banana,  tobacco,  etc. 
Tlie  colour  of  ^e  flowers  in  Spain  is  veiy  lieh,  deep,  espedally  the  reds 
and  yellows.  The  odour,  when  the  plant  is  not  wiiered,  is  delicate  and 
subtle,  but'  of  no  great  intensity ;  the  sise  enormous,  when  properly 
cultivated  on  irrigated  ground ;  but  this  at  the  expense  of  odour,  and,  in 
fruits,  of  savour.  At  such  heights  even  as  8960  to  18,768  ft  (Mula- 
haeen,  'Qranada%  the  flora  is  not  destitute  of  interest  Tbib  cryptogam- 
ous  plants  are  numerous^  and  many  quite  novel  Tlie  Alp^jarrsi^  herbal 
is  one  of  the  richest  in  Europe,  and  its  variety  most  striking  as  one 
ascends,  witnessing  in  a  few  hours  all  the  phases  of  vegetation,  and  all 
the  climates.  At  elevatbns  vaiying  from  7000  to  9000  ft  we  find  the 
juniper,  brushwood,  PotetUiUa  nivali$,  varieties  of  saxifrage,  firs  and 
birch-trees.  From  6000  to  7000  ft.  the  coniferous,  leguminous,  rosace- 
ous, and  qrpenceoos  plants  are  found,  perennials  of  great  variety,  but 
annnals  more  especially,  which  do  not  grow  much  above  this  height 
From  3000  to  6000  ft  the  vine  ceases  to  ripen.  But  we  find  apple, 
pear,  and  walnut  trees,l)arley  and  oats.  The  tone  comprised  between  1 800 
and  3000  ft  contains  oak  forests,  chestnuts,  beech,  cereals.  At  this 
elevation  the  vine  and  maixe  begin  to  cease  in  the  northern  regions,  but 
not  in  the  central,  southern,  and  eastern  latitudes  ;  and  the  olive  and  vine 
grow  and  ripen  admirably  about  the  plateaux  of  Toledo,  Madrid,  etc 
(2418  ft  and  more  above  the  sea).  From  1000  to  1800  ft.  is  the  region 
of  all  cruciferous  and  umbelliferous  plants — the  palm,  sugarcane,  the 


•  ■• 


BOTANY.  ZXXIU 

onnge,  gojarey  wild  genniamBy  wild  crooaaet,  jonqnilB,  rhododendxoiiSy 
the  ptlmito  (Ckamarop$  kwiUU$),  eta  The  botaniBt  ahonld  Tint  caie- 
ftillj  the  Sierras,  about  Coidoiray  where  Dr.  Amor  j  Mayor  has  eollected 
some  1500  phanerogamous  and  dyptogamons  yarietieB.  The  Sienas 
Mmeoa  and  de  Oaenca  haTo  been  also  little  Tisited.  The  Finarea  of  Yal*. 
sain^the  foresta  of  Oaencayand  those  of  the  Cantabzic  range  are  vezj  fine. 
The  aones  mi^  be  thus  olassified :  the  Kortheniy  or  CantabriOy  which  offers 
planta  that  belong  to  temperate  Europe ;  the  Ooitral  region  is  a  transition 
between  the  f onner  and  that  of  most  Mediterranean  oontments  within 
the  same  latitude  ;  the  Eastern,  which  is  essentiall j  Meditenanean  ;  and 
the  Sonthem,  that  bean  an  Aftican  character  ;  to  which  may  be  added 
the  Western  regions,  Teiy  moist,  and  less  warm  than  the  Central  and 
Eaateni  portions.  Trees  once  aboonded  ererywhere  :  the  causes  of  their 
scarcity  may  be  sought,  not  only  in  the  despotism  of  the  Mesta  Monopolist 
Oompany  c^  sheep-owners,  whose  flocks  prevented  plantations,  bnt  in  the 
'  Qrdenanaas  de  Montef,*  a  law  by  which  every  two  trees  oat  of  five  that 
were  planted  belonged  by  right  to  the  crown.  The  amonnt  of  timber  in 
Spain  is  detailed  in  Mariana's  'De  r^gis  Institntione  ;'  Toledo,  1699, 
4to,  p.  332,  Teiy  scarce. 

There  are  sereral  good  Spanish  herbaries  which  botanista  may  consult 
Shenod's,  kept  at  Oxford,  contains  plants  sent  from  Spain  by  Salvador. 
Tlie  TJnnwan  Society  of  London  possesses  that  of  Linnnus,  which  includes 
a  laige  number  of  plants  collected  in  Spain  by  Losffling  and  Alstrcemer. 
In  the  British  Museum  mi^  be  seen  part  of  the  reiy  complete  Spanish, 
FteVTian,  CSdlian,  and  Philippine  herbary  of  Fayon,  Mutes,  and  Ruis ; 
many  portions  from  that  of  Sess^  y  Mocifio.  The  Madrid  Botanical 
Qaxden  possesses  some  curious  ones  of  Paron,  Buis,  Sess^,  and  other  early 
Spanish  botanists,  of  Haenka  (South  American  plants),  etc.  The 
Academy  of  Natural  Sdenoes  of  Barcelona  containa  portiona  of  Baron's 
hezbary.  In  the  School  of  Pharma^,  at  Madrid,  there  is  an  interesting 
Qallcian  herbaiy,  eollected  by  Pourret  We  may  also  mention,  in  Osdis, 
that  of  ddxrera,  belonging  to  Sr.  Chape ;  at  Malaga,  of  Sr.  Prolongo  and 
Hmseler ;  at  Mahon,  of  Sr.  Hemandes ;  in  Madrid,  of  Sr.  Qradls,  of 
Cutanda,andof  Sr.Solis;  in  Qranada,  of  Sz;  Aneo  y  Oampo  ;  in  Seville, 
that  of  the  Unirerrity.  In  the  Enorial  Library,  the  one  which  is 
supposed  eironeousfy  to  be  Mexican,  and  formed  by  Hemandes,  Philip 
H's  doctor,  proceeded  in  reality  from  Mendosa's  Library,  and  the  plants 
are  European.  It  is  placed  in  the  Upper  Library.  In  the  lower  one 
there  is  a  I^Mnish  herbary,  raised  by  Lsgasca,  and  shown  to  Toumefort 
when  he  visited  Spain  in  168a  In  the  Madrid  Academy  of  History 
there  is  a  small  one  of  Femandes  Kayarrete,  who  be^cm  a  Spanish  flora 
before  Quer. 

Chtrdent^ — There  are  yeiy  few  flower^ardens  in  Spain,  and  10  and  1 6 
i&  are  often  paid  for  a  camdlia,  the  same  for  a  tiny  ramHUk  (bouquet)  of 


TXJDY  OKNERAL  INfOBMATION. 

common  roses,  and  6  or  7  n.  a  piece  for  eUivelet  (pinks).  Hie  only 
gardens  we  mention  for  the  attention  of  amateurs  are  the*  royal  ones  of 
La  Qrai^a,  the  neglected  ones  of  Arai\jaezy  the  Due  de  Montpensier^s  at 
Seyille.  They  are  all  on  the  formal  Italian  style,  introduced  with  the 
dnquecento  fsshion,  and-  adopted  by  Charles  Y.,  Philip  IL,  etc. ;  and 
which  the  pseudo  Louis-Quatorased  Philip  Y.  enooura^  considerably. 
The  finest  private  gardens  are  about  Yalenda,  Barcelona,  and  in 
Andalusia  ;  and  the  best  gardeners  are  all  Yalencianos. 

Bo^  of  X^lereHCi,^^*  Cuno  de  Botinica,*  etc.,  bj  Dr.  Miguel  Cofanetro  t 
Madrid,  Callega ;  3  toIs.  1854 ;  with  woodcuts.  The  text-  &  mostly  takoi 
from  Frendi  aaUiois;  bat  Uie  oigsnological  Tocabalaiy  (with  the  Spsnish 
eqaiYalents  for  botanical  terms),  and  his  notes  on  the  Spanish  methods  introdnced 
by  Rajfo  in  1632,  '  Rivinos,'  etc.,  as  well  as  00  botanical  works,  are  useful ; 
and  his  'Cuadro  de  las  Familias  Naturales'  will  be  of  some  use  to  those 
botanisingin  Spain. 

'Flom  fispaSola,'  bj  Quer;  with  woodcuts.  Begun  in*i764,  completed 
hy  Gomes-Ortega,  scarcely  desenres  the  name.  • 

Assess  * OpuKulos'  on  the  plants  of  Aragon ;  wdl  illnstrated. 

'Iter  Hispanicum'  of  uSSBSatg — formed  bj  him  with  Llmueus's  aid; 
iUustrtted. 

*  Florae  Hispanioe  ddectus,'  bj  Gomes-Ortega  j  with  woodcuts  bj  Mufios 
Ugena.     His  <  Decades '  are  Ulustrtted  slso. 

Boissier's  '  Yoyage  Botanique  dans  le  Midi  de  I'Espagne,'  Paris,  1839-45  x 
'  Catilogo  Met^dico  de  Plantes  Obsenradsg  en  CataluBa,'  etc.,  by  Colmeiro ; 
Madrid,  1846,  i  vd. ;  useful  for  the  CstslonJsn  Flora  and  local  nomenclature. 
A  sketch  of  the  history  of  Spanish  botany  may  be  found  in  same  author's 
'  Lusago  Historic,'  etc. ;  Barcelona,  184a  ;  and  a  paper  on  the  formation  of  a 
Spanish  flora  by  same,  in  Italian,  *  Prindpi  che  derono  regolare  una  Flora,' 
etc.,  published  at  Lucca,  1843.      ' 

Rossmassler's  '  Reise-Erinnemngen  ans  Spsnien.'    Ldpiig,  1854,  2  vols. 

'  Manual  de  Botinica  descriptira,'  by  Cutanda  y  Amo.     2  vols.  54r. 

Cutanda's  '  Flora  de  Bladrid  y  Ptorindal'  i  toL  Madrid.  Mentions  more 
especially  the  flora  of  the  euTirons  of  Annjues  snd  the  Csstiles.     40r. 

'Apuntes  para  la  Flora  de  las  Dos  CastiUas,'  8to,  i  voL  Bfadifd,  lar. 
1849. 

SchimpeHs  '  Yoyage  Geologico-Botanique  dans  le  Sud  de  PEspagne,'  in  the 
review  *  L'Institut,'  p.  189 ;  and  MoriU  Willkomm's  '  Die  Strand,'  etc.,  on  the 
steppes  or  baldios  of  Spain  ;  with  a  botanical  map.     Leipiig,  185a. 

'  loones  et  Descrip.  Plantarum,'  iUustrated,  by  Cavanilles. 

'Diagnoses  Plant  noT.  Hispanite,'  by  Renter,  who  travelled  in  Spain  in 
1841,  and  wrote  an  interesting  '  Essai  snr  b  Y^^tatiod  de  la  Nouvelle  Castille.' 
Cook'i,  Townsend's,  and  EMllon's  books  on  Spain  mention  superficially  the 
plants  of  several  localities. 

AjprioiiltiiX6« 

A  LiOBT,  easOy-worked,  and  most  fertile  soQ,  a  combination  of  great  heat 
and  moisture,  absence  of  untimely  frost,  Tast  extent— all  contribute  to 


AORIOULTURBi 

make  Spain  a  pre-eminently  agticultnial  conntij ;  and  the  Spaniard,  a 
man  of  few  wants,  has  always  Referred  agrienltaie  to  trade  and  indnstry. 
Tiie  reason  is  obrioos :  the  tol  €fiador^  the  son — that  great  natural  fanner 
of  Spain— supplies  ereiy  want,  dothes,  feeds,  and  makes  a  poTpetoal 
sunmer  and  harrest ;  besides  which,  the  Spaniards  were  obliged  to  limit 
themeelTes  to  agriealtare  by  the  cirenmstanoes  of  their  histoiy  and 
character.  Constant  wars  on  one  side,  and  xm  the  other  want  of  xoadsi 
hxDdered  the  steady  development  of  trade.  Commerce,  which  requires 
order,  regnlarify,  keeping  accounts,  inteiixmrse  with  stxuigers,  and  some 
knowledge  of  tongues— «11  things  which  a  'labrador'  knows  not,  he 
naturally  despsed.  Trade,  moreoTer,  was  scorned  by  proud  hidalgos, 
whilst  fuming  has  always  been  considered  by  them  a  gentleman's  pursuit 
Like  all  soldieft,  the  Spanish  hidalgo  did  not  disdain  to  occupy  his  leisure 
hour,  between  campaigns,  with  the  cares  of  looking  after  his  estates,  thus 
liTing  as  the  Bomans  did,  mm  H  arairo.  But  even  that  fjRrming  was 
proseentad  chiefly  with  a  Tiew  to  increasing  the  rude  sinews  of  war,  by 
the  pvodnetiioa  of  floor  and  wool ;  and,  like  other  wadike  nations,  the 
,  %aniards  put  great  Talue  on  their  flocks,  which  they  could  move  from 

piaee  to  place,  as  the  ezigendea  of  the  time  required. 

■  .     <       .  • 

Omnia  seciun 

Annentariiis  Afer  agit;  tectumqae,  laremqne, 
Annaque^  AmTclaramque  canem,  Cremmqae  pharetram. 

ViaoiL,  (7«9f2f. 

Eren  when  permanent  oonqueats  fixed  them  anywhere,  their  farm^ 
houses  became  castles,  their  meadows  fields .  of  battle,  and  their  plough- 
men and  drovers  all  fighting  men.  Thus  a  peasantry,  all  guerilleros  to 
the  bone,  living  amid  perpd^  border  waxfioe,  exposed  to  the  raids  of 
the  Christians  and  talat  of  the  Moor,  was  not  likel^  to  possess  artificial 
pasture  and  forests,  and  rather  adopted  extensiTe  than  intensiye  agricul- 
ture. The  methods  and  implements  employed  were  preserved  as  the 
traditions  of  the  earlier  races  handed  them  down,  with  such  changes  only 
as  the  nature  of  the  soil  and  dimate  might  suggest  The  different  races 
who  settled  in  Spain  did  so  in  those  parts  which  were  more  congenial  to 
their  temperament,  and  possessed  of  greater  similarly  to  their  own  native 
land  ;  and  to  this  day  the  joactices  of  agriculture  are  but  the  slow  growth 
of  the  seeds  sown  by  the  passing  rulers^  The  Basque  and  Asturian 
agriculture  u  still  that  introduced  by  Celts  and  Cantabrians  ;  the  Greek 
and  Carthaginian  methods  are  now  in  use  in  CataluSa  and  the  Mediter- 
ranean coast  The  Gkith  and  Moor  live  in  the  rural  methods,  and  the 
fnmer's  calendar  of  Central  and  Southern  Spain ;  and  the  Berber  and 
Bedouin  iarmer,  if  landed  in  the  huerta  of  Yalenda,  would  have  little  to 
foiget  and  nothing  to  learn  anew.  Varro,  Columella,  Virgil,  and  Abu- 
Zakarias — nay,  Hcmier  and  Heaiod — seem  to  have  written  for  the  Spanish 


XZXVl  OINIRAL  INTOBMATION. 

fumen  of  the  nineteenth  eentoiy.  The  desoriptionB  of  the  enltivation 
of  rinesy  oliye,  and  nxnl  festiTities  now  in  nae  will  be  found  in  the  books 
of  Amoe,  Joel,  and  Deuteronomy.  The  plough^'lh^,  and  other  imple- 
ments leeemble  thoee  teen  on  the  monuments  of  Egypt  and  Asia  Minor. 
The  causes  of  this  were  wiuiant  war^  which  thinned  the  population  to 
such  an  extent  that  it  once  did  not  reach  eight  millions  (though  Spain  is 
almost  twice  as  large  as  England,  and  only  on»-tenth  smaller  tha|i 
France) ;  reUj^iaui  intoUnmce;  which  drove  away  the  industrious  Moor 
and  wealthy  Jews,  the  marrow'  of  the  nation ;  kaired  to  foreigners,  of 
which  four  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  were  expelled  under  Philip  IL, 
at  the  suggestion  of  the  Ck>uneil  of  Castile,  who  declared  *  que  es  oonveni- 
ente  exousar  el  trato  y  comerdo  con  cJlos,  porque  solo  sirren  haoer 
destruir  el  reino/  adding  the  charitable  hope  that  the  king  may  oblige 
them, '  que  se  yayan  i  sus  tierras ;'  mu^ovemmmi^  and  the  heavy  taxes, 
tithes,  and  vexations  of  which  the  fsLiming  class  was  the  object ;  the 
institution  of  La  Meata  and  other  privileged  societies  of  ganaderos 
(breeders),  creating  a  monopoly  detrimoital  to  husbandry  ;  thi  aJbwrpticn 
of  property  fy  thofiw^  which  chiefly  arose  from  the  distribution  d  the 
land  conquered  from  the  Infidel  among  the  principal  military  chiefii ;  tks 
abienieeum  of  those  courtiers  who  remembered  that  they  had  estates  only 
to  exact  soldiers  or  to  nose  money  from ;  tho  di$oo>»ery  of  Ammea  and  a 
thint  for  gold,  which  made  the  fknner  leave  his  hard-earned  crop  for  the 
Eldorados  of  the  New  World ;  and,  finally,  inaeeuriiy  and  oentralioation. 
These,  we  repeat,  are  the  causes  which  have  paralysed  the  development 
of  the  natural  resources.  When  a  pause  ensued  after  the  Peninsular  War, 
a  desire  for  rest,  which  so  strenuous  an  effort  commanded,  and  the  irre- 
sistible influence  of  progress,  began  to  be  felt ;  and  though  France  had 
fattened  the  Spanish  soil  with  Uie  bodies  of  its  generous  sons,  the  seeds 
that  she  had  dropped  in  the  furrows  which  her  sword  had  opened  now 
grew  and  prospered.  Church  property  was  sold  and  divided ;  the  law  of 
primogeniture  was  abolished  ;  8,470,008  acres  of  forests  belonging  to  the 
State  were  declared  deoamortiMobUi ;  and  the  produce  in  the  year  1860 
alone  of  the  BieM$  Jfaeunutla  amounted  to  £1,019,360.  The  conse- 
quence has  been  that  a  middle  class,  a  houryeoiM^  hsis  sprung  up,  eager 
of  power,  of  wealth,  of  liberty,  that  scorns  an  impotent  nobility,  and 
tenders  the  hand  to  the  hardy,  though  indifliBrent  lower  classes  The  price 
of  land  is  npidly  increaslDg,  wages  have  risen,  security  has  been  guaran- 
teed by  the  organisation  of  the  Ouardia  CfiviL  Bailways  are  contributing 
powerfully  to  the  prosperity  of  the  agricultural  classes.  French  books 
are  studied,  and  Engli^  machines  are  introduced ;  several  Qovemment 
agricultural  schools  and  model  farms  have  been  established  at  "^toria, 
Tolosa,  Barcelona,  Aranjuei,  Nogales  (province  of  Leon),  of  which  the 
directors  have  studied  at  Origncn,  and  the  pupils  have  been  sent  as 
capataui  all  over  Spain  to  manage  large  farms  according  to  the  most 


AORIOULTUBX-r-MAIZB.  ZXXVii 

■ppiDved  syvtem.  A  gu$to  or  fiaahioii  ioit  gwted  farming  is  even  affBctiiig 
MOM  of  the  nobility,  who  now  go  as  far  eyen  us  three  Iniles  whenever 
their  estates  are  within  that  distance  of  the  Corte.  Agrictdtnral  ezhibi- 
tions  take  place  peziodicallj  in  the  principal  cities  of  Spain,  while  seyeral 
lannen^  dnfaSi  oaociaeumM^  ansa  here  and  there,  publish  reriews,  and  make 
ezpeiiments.  Free-tzade  is  diwiissed,  though  not  as  yet  adopted.  In  a 
word,  the  wheel  has  been  set  in  motion — it  tains  and  advances.  May 
GoTevnment,  the  hostile  ignorance  of  the  peasantry,  and  dvil  strife,  not 
drive  it  again  into  the  rat 

Tsking  the  range  of  dimate  which  prevails,  and  the  prindpal  product 
which  it  determines,  we  shall  classify  Spain  into  five  agiicaltaral  regions — 
vis.  that  of  the  Ncnih,  or  of  maize';  that  of  the  East,  or  the  orange  ; 
that  of  the  Sonth,  or  the  vine ;  that  of  the  West,  or  pasture ;  and  that  of 
the  Centre,  or  com. 

The  Vgbxb  Bboioh,  or  o/Maixe^ 

Indodes  the  northern  portion  of  CataluBa,  Aragon,  Navarre,  Basque  Pro- 
vince, Astoiias,  Qalida.  The  prindpal  products  are  : — ^Bidze  or  Indian 
com,  fruit-trees,  cattle.  Com  scarcdy  ripens,  and  the  vine  produces  an 
inferior  wine,  the  addity  of  which,  caused  by  a  relative  want  of  sun  and 
certain  minmls  in  the  soil,  unfits  it  generally  for  exportation.  There 
are  marked  exceptions,  of  course,  and  some  good  wine  is  produced  and 
exported  in  Ostaluffa,  Aragon,  and  Nava#e.  Maize  is  cultivated  chiefly 
in  the  Basque  Province,  Astuiias,  and  Galida,  where  it  constitutes  the 
prindpal  food  of  the  people.  A  hectare  (2^  acres)  produces  on  an  average 
60  to  68  hectoL  (137  bushels),  weighing  60  to  70  kiL  (140  lbs.) ;  the 
straw  is  used  for  fodder  and  food  of  cattle ;  the  grain  produces-  more 
butter  than  milk,  and  fattens  quickly.  It  is  sown  in  May  and  June,  in 
lines  at  intervds,  ploughed  in  or  buried  with  the  foot  Weeding  takes 
place  once  (July),  and  the  reaping  in  August  or  September.  The  ears  of 
maize  are  exposed  for  some  time  to  the  air,  and  hang  in  thick  golden 
dusters  aroimd  the  faim-windows,  and  from  under  the  projecting  roofs. 
Hie  thrashing  takes  place  with  flails,  or  a  spedal  machine.  The  jj^oduce 
reaches  700^/o  ;  and  requires  irrigation  in  Uie  centre  and  south  of  Spain. 
Although  there  are  very  large  estates  in  Aragon  and  CatduSa,  property 
is  very  muidi  divided;  farms  seldom  extend  over  seven  acres.  The 
wooden  plough  is  used,  with  an  or^era,  or  diare ;  but  cultivation  is  more 
jnmctised  with  a  two-pronged  fork,  lojfo,  the  identicd  mattocks  mentioned 
in  Frdssart's  *  Chronide,'  and  Ohurdiill,  <  The  Duellist,*  book  11.  The 
Aragonese  make  use  of  the  aadon,  or  pickaxe,  and  are  first-rate  at  digging. 
Green  hedges  divide  property  in  tiie  Basque  Provinces  'and  West — an  old 
tradition,  handed  down  by  their  forefathers,  the  Cdts  and  Cantabrians 
(Viigil,  Gkorg.  book  2,  v.  370  ;  Cesar,  217)  ;  but  in  CatduSa  there  are 
none,  as  neither  in  Cbstile,  for  '  the  hidalgo  cannot  wall  in  Spain,'  says 


XXZYIU 


OKNERAL  INFOKICATIOM. 


the  proud  legislation  of  ancient  times,  and  instead  they  hare  land-maikS) 
fncjoMi — ^that  is,  mere  stones  placed  de  oomvn  aeuerdo,  and  neyer  trans- 
gressed— '  Thou  shalt  not  lemoye  thy  neighhoni's  land-mark  which  they 
of  old  haye  set  in  thine  inheritance '  (Deut  xiz.  14) ;  and  in  the  Qothio 
legislation,  he  who  dared  to  break  throogh  a  hedge  receiyed  fifty  lashes 
(For.  Tor.  b.  8,  tit  2,  cap.  6  and  7) ;  the  Basques,  therefore,  make  them, 
as  Chaucer  says,  *  a  hegge  as  thidke  as  a  castel  walL'  The  lulls  are 
clothed  with  timber  ;•  chestnuts,  pears,  and  apple-trees  grow  plentifully  on 
the  slopes ;  and  excellent  cider,  pamaradOf  is  made.  The  rotation  of 
crops  is  biennial :  Jini  year^  wheat  or  cloyer,  turnips,  and  red  cloyer ; 
second  year,  Indian  com,  beans,  and  turnips.  The  cattle  are  short-homed, 
small ;  used  for  milk,  and  the  plough  in  lieu  of  oxen  and  mules  ;  mostly 
imported  from  Brittany  and  Suitander ;  and  yield  4  to  10  quarts  Srday. 

The  South  Bboioh,  cr  o/YvsntB, 

Includes  Seyille,  Osdix,  Qranada,  all  Andaluda.  *  The  soil  here  teems 
with  generation  ;  the  fertility  is  especially  great  in  irrigated  soils,  where 
abundance  and  size  make  up  for  want  of  flayour  and  delicacy.  The  hills 
abound  with  timber.  An  aranmda  (an  English  acre  all  but  a  tenth)  is 
yalued  in  the  province  of  Seyille  to  produce  as  in  the  following  table  : — 


1 

'  ImioatsdSoil. 

^                Nom-Ibuoatbo. 

ForCereds. 

Frail. 

Olifc 

Vine. 

Cereds. 

PlMtnTB. 

Fonst 

£vm 

£'S/»fi 

£^9N 

£io/2/z 

;f7/i3/6 

£»/i3/6 

;f 9/17/3 

Property  is  yery  little  divided,  and  some  estates  in  the  province  of  Cadis 
amount  to  36,000  aranx.,  in  which  800  mules  plough  the  land,  and  are 
yalued  about  £l 60,000,  such  as  t^iat  of  Enrile  and  Velasques.  The  wages 
are  3)  to  6r.  (8|d.  to  16d.)  arday ;  the  produce  4  to  6  per  cent 

The  Ftiie.*--^pain  possesses  a  soil  especially  suited  to  its  cultivation^ 
and  though  grown  all  over  the  country,  this  is  its  native  district.  The 
different  modes  of  cultivating  it  were  introduced  by  the  Romans.  'The 
ground  is  first  deeply  ploughed,  then  large  and  deep  hoyos  (pits),  two  to 
three  yards  distant,  are  dug,  the  intervals  being  shorter  if  the  soQ  is  turned 
with  Uie  pickaxe.  Wine  is  produced  in  two  and  a  half  to  four  years  after 
the  planting,  an  aranxada  yielding  from  80  to  300  arrobas  of  grape,  con- 
stituting a  anys,  or  load ;  that  is,  8  arrobas  of  grape  produce  3  arrobas 
of  wine.  In  some  psrts,  however,  2  arrobas  of  grape  make  1  of  wine  (an 
arroba,  3l  gallons).  The  cost  of  vintage  (vendeja) — treading  (pisa)  yielding 
the  most  (arregio  de  mosto)— averages  3r.  (7d.)  per  caiga.  The  vineyards 
are  guarded  by  sheds  and  turrets,  just  as  in  Numbers  xxiL  26. 

*  For  fiiDer  particulan  on  Spt&ish  wum,  mc  pagt  xUv. 


AOmOULTUBS— OBANOS-TBEEa  XXZIX 

The  OuTM  grows  eTeiywhexe  in  Spain,  but  more  eapedally  in  the 
region  of  the  eonth.  The  moet  celebrated  are  in  Cordova,  the  cUvarm  of 
Odera,  Looena,  and  Ifontoro  in  the  province  of  Jaen ;  those  of  Andxgar, 
Bailen,  and  La  Aldea ;  those  in  the  neighbonihood  of  Granada  are  also 
excellent ;  howbeit,  the  SeviUanas  bear  Uie  palm.  The  coltivation  is  ill 
undeistood.  The  best  soil  for  the  olive  is  that  where  limestone  prevails, 
and  the  best  species  is  the  oomicabra.  A  fanega  (1^  bnshel)  of  olives 
gives  16  to  18  fts.  of  oiL  An  aranzada  produces  12  anobas,  which 
make  325  Ttm,  of  oil ;  tlus  is  the  minimum  type.  The  value  of  12 
arrobas  produced  by  an  araniada  is  560r.,  the  cost  to  produce  them  360r. 
The  liquid  amount  u  about  1200r.  (£12  :  10s.) ;  Mch  olive-tree  gives 
hslf-a-Cuiega  of  olives  per  year,  and  the  aranzada  20  to  26  ;  but  trees 
arc  known  to  yield  as  much  as  8  and  more.  They  are  planted  in  rows ; 
a  branch  is  cut  in  January,  the  end  opened  by  four  slits ;  it  is  then 
planted,  banked,  and  watered  for  two  or  three  yean,  and  pruned  into 
four  or  five  branches.  They  begin  to  produce  at  the  eighth  year,  but 
twelve  and  eighteen  aro  necessary  to  reach  the  highest  produce.  The 
bory  in  the  central  and  northern  regions  of  Spain  does  not  ripen  till  the 
end  of  December,  but  in  AfMlaln««.  early  in  the  autumn.  The  process 
lor  making  oil  is  very  primitive,  and  is  the  cause  of  its  being  often  ran- 
dd  and  inferior  to  the  French.  Olives  aro  also  preserved  to  be  eaten 
whole ;  for  this  they  aro  picked  beforo  they  aro  quite  ripe,  and  steeped 
in  brine.  The  olive  is  nutritious,  but  heating.  Most  of  the  sorts  used 
now  bear  the  old  Roman  names  (Columella,  6-8).  They  are  dearer  now 
than  they  were  at  Borne,  when  *  olei  libra  duoden»  assibus '  (Pliny,  16, 1). 
Oil,  acette^  the  AiaVs  anait,  is  a  substitute  for  butter  and  grease  in  Spain. 
They  make  with  it  a  dish  called  hm^os,  which  is  a  compound  of  crumbs 
of  bread  fried  with  oil,  salt,  and  pepper — the  Latin  poef  s  '  mica  vocor 
quid  sim  cemis  csniatio  parva ;'  and  gazpacho,  or  bread  soaked  in  oiL 
Hie  ofl  consumed  in  Spain  amounts  to  6,666,600  gallons,  being  4  galls. 
6  pints  per  head ;  while  the  consumption  of  meat  is  23*03  lbs.  The  oil 
exported  in  1860  was  371,734  airobas,  valued  at  20,444,066r. 

In  this  district  the  vegetablss  are  excellent,  some  of  enomjous  size. 
The  Cordovese  artichokes  were  a  relish  at  Rome  (Pliny,  19,  8).  Melons 
(wMJrynrfgf)  and  water-mel<ms  (seuu^tat),  citrons  and  limas,  aro  most  ex- 
quisite ;  so  aro  the  pomegranates  {^ranadai)  which  wero  sent  to  Abdur-r- 
rh4man  from  Baghdad,  and  thereforo  called  jaiaries — Arabic^,  traweUen, 

The  Easv  Bboiov,  cr  of  Orahqs-Tbbbb, 

Includes  R  and  a  CataluSa,  Valencia,  Alicante,  Murcia,  Malaga.  This 
is  the  panidiro  of  the  farming  Moor,  the  richest  soil  in  Europe,  and  one 
of  the  best  cultivated ;  every  tropical  plant  grows  and  thrives  admirably 
— xioe,  sugar,  cotton,  wine,  oil,  silk,  com.    Taking  Otttellon  for  average 


d  OXNIRAL  DIVOBICAIION: 

tjpe,  the  hamegada  (32  tqaare  pdlet)  ii  yalned  from  2000r.  (£21)  to  4000r. 
(;^2),if  irrigated  ;  the  rent  and  Talue  of  the  Buirta  (occhird)  ere  in  pio- 
poitiim  to  Uie  period  end  growth  of  the  plantationi.  The  narw^fala 
(oiange-groonds)  are  diyided  into  three  rliMini  on  an  arerage ;  the  hec- 
tare ii  Talued  at  98,000  reala,  each  tree  produces  700  reala,  and  the 
hanegada  contains  about  twentj  trees.  The  arrendamieiUa  (farming-lease) 
of  a  hanegada  planted  with  orange-treesy  from  16  to  20  years  old,  is  260 
reals  (£2  :  12sl>— tIl  1 220r.  per  hectare  (2|  acres)  ;  the  trees  b^gin  to  bear 
fruit  after  the  sixth  year,  and  improve  np  to  20  years,  after  which  they 
degenerate ;  they  flower  in  March.  *  It  rarely  happens  to  find  a  plant 
TigoroQS  enough  to  hare,  like  the  orange-tree,  at  once  beautiful  shining 
leayes,  fragrant  flowers,  and  delicious  nourishing  fruit'  (Spectator^  mem. 
166).  The  exportation  is  very  considerable ;  and  in  1860  it  amounted 
to  209,013  miUares,  and  138,199  anobas  of  dtrons,  both  Talued  about 
£240,000  ;  the  greatest  expcoiation  is  to  England,  where  the  entrance 
for  hcone  consumption  amounts  to  upwards  of  a  million  bushels  of  oranges 
and  lemons.  They  are  picked  in  October,  when  they  b^gin  to  turn 
yellow,  wr^iped  in  paper,  and  packed  in  boxes  containing  700  to  1000 
each,  and  worth  to  the  importer  from  twenty-five  to  thirty  shillings ; 
they  ripen  during  the  voyage.  The  finest  naraigales  are  at  Bicote, 
Mureia,  at  Oullera,  Aldra,  Gandia,  Osreagente. 

Rioe^ — Considerably  produced  and  consumed  in  this  r^on  ;  intro- 
duced by  the  Oarthaginians  and  cultivated  by  the  Arabs,  who  called  it 
orrdi,  and  sowed  it  on  both  irrigated  and  non-irrigated  soil :  it  is  now 
principally  produced  in  marshy  swamps,  called  marjaUi  or  arrowtaUif 
ague-feedm,  that  produce  great  mortality  among  the  cultivators.  A  hec- 
tare produces  20  to  60  hectolitre  of  grain  (a  hect  s=  6^  qrs.,  and  the 
stalks  weigh  86  ewt)  The  fertility  which  100  kilogrammea  of  rice-grain 
and  straw  draw  from  the  soil  is  equal  to  that  contained  in  136  IdL  of 
good  manure. 

Sugar-CcaUf  introduced  by  the  Arabs,  is  limited  to  the  province  of 
Mslaga ;  the  ccdtivadon  does  not  extend,  owing  to  American  competition  ; 
grows  o^y  on  irrigated  soiL  The  sugar  produced  is  only  10  per  cent, 
whilst  in  Cuba  16*4  to  17*6  ;  a  hectare  of  sugar-cane  yields  2900  kiL  of 
sugar.  This  Arab  9ukh%T  and  Sanscrit  mrhara  was,  according  to  some, 
imported  from  SicQy  by  the  Carthaginians,  and  exported  by  the  Spaniards 
to  St  Domingo,  though  indigenous  in  that  country. 

Tht  Baisin, — ^There  are  jkuom  of  three  sorts — ^moecatel,  de  sol  (sun 
rainn)  and  lejias,  so  called  from  the  liquor  ley  in  which  they  are  dipped, 
composed  of  water,  ashes,  and  oil,  after  which  they  go  through  the  usual 
process  of  drying  in  the  sun.  The  finest  are  those  from  Malaga,  which 
fetch  a  third  more  than  any  other  in  the  London  market  Those  im- 
ported to  Englfm^  from  Spain  in  1867  were  231,864  cwt 

BiMUOcu  {0(mwokmiMi  bataioif  L.) — ^Another  produce  of  Hakga,  im* 


AORIOULTUBB— PASrOBXi  xU 

potted  from  SoiitH  Ameriea ;  used  as  a  sweetmeat,  and  excellent  when 
boiledi  planted  in  spxiog,  and  taken  np  in  antomn.  A  hectare  yields 
thizty  to  sixty  thonsand  IdL    The  leayes  are  eaten  by  cattle. 

SUhi  Chiefly  at  Valenday  where  the  mnlbeny  grows  admirably,  an4 
the  silk  is  excellent  The  methods  practised  are  antiqnated  ;  the  Pkalama 
homifx  is  commonly  employed.  The  cocoon  weighs  only  2  grammes,  whikt 
that  of  the  Bembjfs  atku,  at  the  Vincennes  model-iarm,  weighs  9.  It  is  on 
the  increase ;  and  in  1860, 630,870  lbs.  were  exported,yalaed at  Xl  13,676. 

OoUotL — ^The  soil  and  climate  are  fayonrable,  but  man  is  unequsl  to 
either.  In  Motril  (province  of  Granada),  towards  the  end  of  the  last 
oentury,  1781  maijales  produced  12,000  anobas  (300,000  fts.)  The 
Arabs  cultiTated  it  on  the  Aiwlalnoi^w  searshore.  We  hare  seen  fine 
specimens  at  Ekhe  (Alicant).  A  hectare  (2^  acres)  yields  in  a  qnin- 
quennio,  or  period  of  fire  years,  6200  kiL  (102  cwts.),  which,  at  the  lowest 
pnce  (4r.  26c  per  kiL,  10^),  are  yalned  at  26,100r.  (;£272),  the  expenses 
to  18,496r.,  the  net  prodoce  being  therefore  1640r.  (£16  :  16  : 6)  per  hec* 
tare ;  whilst  inAlgeria  the  maximnm  produce  is  1 200r.  (£12 :  10s.)  per  hec- 
tare. In  1808  there  were  as  many  as  forty  thousand  marjales  planted  in 
Motril ;  it  decreased  again  during  the  Peninsular  war,  and  is  yery  slowly  re- 
coyering.  Land  is  yery  cheap,  and  were  English  companies  to  buy  up  a  large 
extent,  and  cultiyate  cotton,  the  result  would,  no  doubt,  proye  satisfactoiy. 

Irriffatiotk — ^The  huertas  of  Valencia,  Muroia,  and  yegas  of  Qranada, 
are  the  great  centres  of  irrigation.  The  celebrated  tribunal  de  las 
Agues,  at  Valencia,  applies  to  tibis  day  the  code  of  laws  introduced  by  the 
Goths  and  Arabe.  The  noria,  or  Arab  anaoura,  is  a  large  water-wheel, 
armed  with  jars  (alcaiuee$)  which  descend  into  the  well,  and,  as  ihey  rise, 
following  the  motion  of  the  wheel,  discharge  their  contents  into  a  reeenroir. 
There  is  irrigation  by  agua  de  pi^  (running  water)  and  agua  de  noria, 
artefacto,  arte,  as  these  wheels  are  called,  according  to  the  proyince  where 
they  are  employed.  By  means  of  irrigation,  Alfedia  (Lucerne)  is  mowed 
twelye  to  sixteen  times.  Guano  is  now  much  employed  by  farmers  in 
the  Huerta  of  Valencia,  and  in  1862,  16,000  tons  were  used.  The  neces- 
sity of  irrigation,  and  when  obtained,  in  this  parched-up  soU,  the  aug- 
mentation oi  the  yalue  of  land,  will  appear  evident  when  we  state  that, 
whilst  in  the  proyince  of  Murda  unirrigated  (ieoano)  land  sells  from  £12 
to  £Z0  per  acre,  irrigated  (reffodio)  land  fetches  prices  yarying  from  ;£300 
to^^OO.  In  the  JTtMTto  of  Valencia,  the  proportion  is  X6  to  £12  in  the 
first  case,  and  £300  to  £400  in  the  second.  Again,  while  the  yalue  of 
a  cubic  foot  of  water  per  second  is  in  Lombardy  £8,  and  in  Piedmont 
178.  6d.,  it  is  often  sold  in  Spain  at  the  rate  of  £300  the  cubic  foot  per 
second,  and  mmetimm  ejpoeedi  thi$  price. 

The  Weit  Bboioh,  or  of  Pastubb, 

Includes  Estri^*"" —  ~^  portions  of  Leon :  contains  little  more  than 
69  inhabita  ^eague ;  consbts  of  laige  wastes,  yaldios,  and 


Zlii  OKNERAL  INFORMATION. 

paatnie-laiid.  The  agticQUure  is  strictly  pastoral.  A  eompanj  of  aheep 
proprietors,  called  Concejo  de  la  Mesta,  was  established  in  1656,  to  which 
most  exclusiTe  and  arbitrary  privileges  were  granted.  In  the  16th  cen* 
tniy  they  possessed  seren  millions  of  sheep,  .in  the  17th  century  only 
two  and  a  half.  It  was  suppressed  in  1834,  and  the  remnant,  the  now 
nnpriyileged  Assodacion  de  Qanaderos,  possesses  only  five  millions.  The 
flocks  are  divided  into  sitontet  (stationary)  and  traihumanie$^  or  migratory, 
and  divided  into  detached  cabaSSas  (from  the  Qreek  kapane,  a  stable),  of 
about  10,000  head  each.  The  highland  summer  pastures  are  cidled 
a^oiiaderoi  (August,  from  a^oitar,  to  be  parched  with  heat,  as  metta  comes 
from  mettalf  a  barren  uncultivated  land),  and  are  quitted  about  October 
for  the  im>ernad<tre$t  winter  quarters,  in  Uie  warm  plains ;  each  cabaSa  is 
directed  by  a  Mayoral,  or  Merino,  who  has  under  his  orders  fifty  shep- 
herds. The  free  sheep-walks,  *  CaSada  de  'Paao'  now  suppressed,  were 
90  ft.  wide,  and  were  left  on  each  side  of  the  highway,  an  organisation  and 
custom  well  known  to  the  ancients.  (Pliny,  21, 10 ;  Varro,  22, 10  ;  2, 2.) 
The  merino  breeds  were  so  called  from  the  conductor's  name  (whence  those 
jurisdictional  districts  called  merindadei,  etymologically  to  divide,  to 
separate,  as  in  Navarre,  to  this  day).  Spanish  sheep  were  always  cele- 
brated, and  some  fetched  at  Bome  as  much  as  ^£200  (Columella,  B.o.  42). 
Qeorge  m.  was  a  great  patron  of  the  breed,  and  the  late  king  of  Saxony 
imported  it.  Indeed,  such  has  been  the  care  and  intelligence  shown  by 
English  and  Germans,  and  the  neglect  of  Spanish  breeders,  that  the  wo<^ 
trade  with  Spain  has  become  inrignificant  compared  with  that  of  (Ger- 
many and  Bra&l,  and  merina  are  now  imported  from  those  countries  to 
regenerate  the  Spanish  breeds  I  Spain  in  1659  possessed  about  seven- 
teen and  a  half  million  head.  The  net  produce  of  a  sheep  is  4r.  to  6r., 
and  the  price  33r.  to  36r. 

Swine  are  another  produce  of  this  region,  and  the  bacon  and  hams  of 
Montanches  and  the  strong  chorizos  are  celebrated  aU  over  Spain. 

« 

The  Central  Bboioh,  or  of  Oobn, 

Includes  the  Castiles  S.  of  Leon,  Mancha,  etc.  This  region  consLsts  of  vast 
treeless  plains,  where  com  thrives  wonderfuUy,  and  might  indeed  become 
the  granary  of  the  worid.  An  aranada  (nearly  an  acre)  is  in  general 
sown  with  a  fanega  and  6  cuartillos  (1|  bushel) ;  in  Andalusia  it  yields 
from  13  to  20  fanegadas.  A  ianegada  of  land  in  Castile  yields  9  to  30. 
There  are  a  great  many  varieties  of  com,  all  divided  under  the  heads  of 
caHivanoi  and  ooHimacuot— that  is,  hkmdoe  and  dturoe ;  90  lbs.  weight  of 
wheat  yield  116  lbs.  of  bread.  Much  bariey  is  also  grown,  but  is  princi- 
pally given  to  hones  and  cattle.  The  great  wheat  districts  are  Palenda, 
Valladolid,  Zamora,  with  Old  Castile,  *  tienas  de  pran  llevar'  is  applied  to 
land  which  grows  it  more  especially.  All  com  is  sown  broadcast  on  fallow 
land  and  ploughed  in ;  the  sowing  takes  places  from  October  to  Novem- 
ber.   In  the  spring  the  eeearda  (weeding)  takes  place«  and  in  July  and 


AORIOULTUBIt— CORN.  zliii 

August  the  leaping  b^nt,  which  is  done  with  the  sickle,  not  the  scythe, 
f  slower  but  sorer  process  in  this  climate.  The  thrsshing-floors  (erof), 
la  triUa^  the  wooden  or  stone  roller  used  in  some  disticts,  and  in  others 
the  treading  the  com  with  mnles  or  oxen,  are  aU  Eastern  importations, 
and  soch  as  practLsed  now  in  Egypt  and  Asia  Minor.  The  plough  is  an 
ehn-tree,  akumo  nsffro  (Utmut  ni^^),  stripped  of  its  bark  and  branches, 
sare  a  lower  one,  which  is  sharpened  and  coated  with  a  thin  sheet  of 
iron ;  the  trunk  forms  the  pole,  and  lies  obliquely  between  the  oxen  or 
muW  heads ;  no  traces,  no  reins  are  needed,  the  Yoice  alone  suffices  to 
guide  the  yunia,  and  the  ytdian  foUows  rather  than  dtrectt  the  plough, 
holding  the  single  handle  with  his  left  imnd,  and  with  a  short  goad 
(yavUan)  scrapes  o£F  the  mud,  roots,  etc.  But  the  goad  he  manages  to 
kare  bdiind  in  the  aperOf  which  is  often  two  or  three  leagues  distant ; 
and  he  will  go  on  singing,  as  he  ploughs,  some  wild  ditty  to  the  winds 
and  his  lass,  looking  back  rather  than  forward,  contrary  to  the  iiguno- 
tum  of  the  Bible.  The  vertethra  (versMr),  or  iron-share  plough  is  little 
known,  nor  rollers  and  harrows,  as  we  understand  them.  The  ploughing 
is  Tery  light,  what  the  Bomans  called  ioari/Uatic.  The  furrows  seldom 
exceed  eight  inches ;  its  diflferent  operations  are  reduced  to  4  rejas ;  the 
plou^  costs  from  60r.  to  76r.  (10s.  5d.  to  16s.  7d.,  and  weighs  25  lbs.), 
and  weighs  one  airoba ;  ploughing  otherwise  is  scorned,  *  mdo  rabudo 
y  labrador  barbudo.'  llie  rotation  of  crops  is  unknown,  and  would 
scarcely  be  possible  without  manure  or  water.  The  most  usual  system 
is  that  of  ano  y  ve»  (every  other  year).  Thus  the  soil  only  bears  a  crop 
ereiy  second  year,  and  f€s<«— that  is,  is  manured  by  the  air — the  other. 
Wages  Tary.  from  4r.  to  7r.  (from  lOd.  to  Is.  6d.)  The  Castilian  labra- 
dores  are  far  from  indolent,  rise  with  the  cook,  and  are  harder  wooers 
than  is  generally  belieyed. 

Sajfrcfif  oMofran  (Arabic^  9ajfrd^  yellow),  is  also  extensiyely  grown ; 
and  garbanxos  (deer,  imd4  C&cero,  whose  wart  was  like  one).  This  chick- 
pea, the  French  fHn^-ckiche^  is  farinaceous,  somewhat  fade^  but  JilU  the 
hu^y  and  that  is  all  that  is  required.  It  is,  moreover,  grown  without 
irrigation,  and  yields  plentifrd  crops.  This  pea,  quite  a  Spanish  pro- 
duce C  Espafia,  la  tierra  de  los  garbamos*),  enters  kigely  into  the  daily 
food  of  the  poor  and  rich  man  alike,  for  the  oUa  or  pudiero  appears  on 
the  queen's  table  ereiy  day,  as  it  does  between  the  crossed  Iqgs  of  the 
squatting  albtM^  or  ploughboy.  The  oUa  (oQo,  a  pot,  a  pipkin)  or 
puchero,  and  also  eoado^  is  the  Spanish  staple  dish.  It  is  a  compound 
of  stringy,  dried-up  beef,  boiled  garbanxos,  bacon,  cabbage,  chicken 
(victims  generally  of  raiud  decline),  rdevU  by  highly-epioed  choriio,  etc., 
all  boQed  and  served  together.  Quantity  replaces  quality,  and  it  satisfies 
all  Spanish  stomachs,  even  that  of  the  fastidious  (}ura,  whose  happiness 
Is  summed  up  in  it. 

Sn  oik,  ra  mita, 
TMDofia 


xliv  OXNSRAL  INTORMATION. 

The  algarroba  (Otium  mmcMtKoi^  L.)  is  ftsry  mncli  growiiy  and  is 
especmlly  used  for  cattle  ;  10  to  16  hectoU.  aie  produced  in  a  hectare. 
The  flour  made  with  it  ia  exceUent  for  milk-cowa  ;  growa  on  non-irri- 
gated  soil ;  two  species,  black  and  white ;  the  grains  are  sometimes  called 
Arbejones. 

BcpJkt  of  Refaretut. — 'Curso  de  Economia  mral  EspaSoU,'  by  Tablada. 
ExceUent,  in  coane  of  publication.     Madrid,  Cnesta,  1864. 

'  Manual  de  la  Constroccicm  de  las  Maquinas  aiatorias,'  bj  same.  Madrid, 
1853. 

'Manual  de  Riegos  y  Prados,' by  same. 

'  Herrera't  Treatise  of  General  Agriculture,'  published  15 13  (several  editions 
since),  may  be  consulted. 

'  Elementos  de  Agric.,'  by  Blanco  y  Femandes.     Madrid,  1857. 

<  Abu  Zakaria's  Moorish  Agric'  (dates  12th  century),  and  was  written  for 
the  use  of  the  Sevillian  Moors,  found  in  Ebnu-l-AwmAm's  Book  of  Agriculture. 
Translated  by  Sefior  BanquerL     Madrid,  a  foL  vols.,  1802. 

The  best  periodicals  are  *La  EspaSa  Agricola,'  and  <Eco  de  la  Ganaderia.' 

"Wine. 

Thi  celebrity  of  Spanish  wine  was  great  eren  in  olden  times.  That  it 
was  exported  to  England  and  France  as  early  aa  the  16th  century  there 
is  no  doubt  Spanish  wines  haye  lately  superseded  Madeira  and  other 
white  onea ;  and  when  the  Spanish  red  wines  become  better  known, 
Bordeaux  will  sustain  a  serious  competition.  The  principal  character- 
istics of  the  Spanish  wines  are — ^fdlness  of  body  (cuerpo),  strangth  deriyed 
from  its  natural  spiritnoeify  (mctUMModo),  absence  of  acidity,  owing  to 
the  power  of  the  sun,  very  high  ^your  or  bouquet,  and  great  durability, 
in  the  whites  more  especially.  The  principal  ^pkite  wines  are — Jeres, 
Mslaga,  Mansanilla ;  the  raf^YaldepeiSas,  Arganda,  Benicarl6. 

White, — Jeres,  or  Sherry,  pronounced  '  Haras,'  was  introduced  into 
England  in  the  reign  of  Heniy  VIL,  and  became  a  general  layourite  in 
the  time  of  Elizabeth.  The  ioek  mentioned  so  often  in  the  works  of 
Beaumont  and  Fletcher  ('the  yertue  of  sack') ;  of  Ben  Jonson  ('  An 
Epigram,'  etc) ;  and  in  Shakspeare  (Hen.  lY.,  pi  1,  etc)  alludea  to 
Canary  cmly.  The  layourite  diink  of  Sir  John  Falsteff  was,  howeyer, 
Xerez,  not  Canary  ;  and  Shakspeare  plainly  marks  the  difference : — ^^  A 
good  9hern$mck  hath  a  two-fold  operation  in  it :  it  ascends  me  into  the 
braine  ;  the  aecond  propertie  of  your  exeellent  aherris  is,  the  wanning  of 
the  blood'  (Hen.  IV.,  pt  2,  act  iy.)  Whether,  now,  sack  comes  from 
seeOf  diy,  or  otherwise,  as  Ducange  expresses  it,  we  leaye  to  the  learned. 
The  exportation  has  more  than  doubled  in  twenty  yean,  and  that  is  the 
best  commentary  upon  its  yalue  and  fayour.  In  1841  there  were  ex- 
ported from  Jeres  to  alt  parts,  14,773  butts  of  30  anobss  each,  yalue 
£440,000 ;  in  1860  there  were  30,725  butts,  yalue  £1,400,000 ;  in 
1862,  34,314  butts — the  largest  exporters  being  Messrs.  Qonzales,  Byass, 
and  Co.,  amounting  to  6426  butts ;  and  next  P.  Domecq,  3392  butts. 


WINB.  xIt 

The  dinnand,  espeeialljr  far  old  sheny,  is  enonnons  ;  and  the  prices  ere 
likely  to  increase.  Moieoyer,  the  yintages  for  some  time  past  have  been 
scanty  owing  to  scorching  African  winids,  absence  of  rain,  and  other 
caosesL  Sheny  is  made  with  Jeres  grapes,  but  of  great  many  sorts  and 
diffsrence  of  flayonr.  Hie  process  for  making  this  wine  is  thns  carried 
on : — ^The  grapes  are  carefolly  gathered  and  sorted,  and  exposed  npon 
reed  mats,  where  the  sun  dries  them ;  eight  or  ten  days  suffice,  according  to 
the  strength  of  the  son  and  varieties  of  froit — a  process  mesitioned  by 
Hesiod,  Ub.  ii,  t.  229.  Hie  grapes  are  then  taken  to  the  la^,  and 
snhmitted  to  the  action  of  presses  (prensis),  before  which  Uiey  are 
trampled  under  foot,  just  as  was  done  tiiousands  of  years  ago  in  F^estine 
(Isaiah  xriL  10  and  Jer.  zlriiL  33),  and  by  the  Greeks  and  Bomans,  and 
all  Eastern  nations,  for  where  the  wn  rules  paramount,  most  agricultaral 
practices,  and  others  indeed,  never  vary  ;  and  of  these  it  may  be  truly 
said,  lul  novmn  tub  toU^  as  most  inventions  and  innovations  of  the  frost- 
bitten Northerner  tend  to  making  artificial  suns  with  coals,  manures,  forests, 
^UsB,  etc.  The  qrstem  of  trampling  the  grape  under  foot  was  prohibited 
in  Ohariemagne^s  time  (Cap.  year  800).  The  must  or  Juice  (mate)  is  put 
into  botes,  where  it  u^ergoes  fermentation.  When  the  latter  is  com- 
pleted (in  January),  and  the  must  is  made  wine,  it  is  racked  from  the 
lees  and  left  to  itsdf  for  four  or  five  years — ^the  age  requisite  for  ex- 
portation. When  it  enters  tliis  stage  (madwraeton),  it  is  clarified  ;  which 
process  is  done  by  dinolving  a  fat^  substance  in  the  whites  of  twenty 
eggs  per  bota,  and  the  compost  poured  into  it  and  stirred  for  mixing, 
then  allowed  to  settle,  and  afterwardi  racked  off  into  another  bota  (a 
butt,  not  a  skin).  Now  an  important  operation  takes  place ;  the  wine 
{d  ctMldo,  as  it  is  technically  called)  receives  a  small  addition  of  madre 
vino  {madre,  mother),  or  very  rich  old  wine,  the  crSme  de  la  erSme,  and 
treasured  up,  as.  the  old  Dutchmen  kepi  wiUi  Jealous  eye  their  bulbs  of 
tulips.  The  quantify  of  mother  wine  is  every  year  made  up  by  other 
wine,  old  too,  but  younger  than  the  alma  mater  iteell  To  bear  exporta- 
tion, a  fiftieth  or  sixtie^  part  of  brandy  is  added — that  is,  about  1*/, ; 
Hiis  for  genuine  sherry.  Imitations  receive  6*/o  *nd  7Vo  ^^  spirit,  and 
sometimes  more. 

There  are,  under  the  sorts  of  dry  and  sweet  sherry,  two  varieties  of 
each.  1st  Dry  Sherry — Jerei  seco,  or,  properly,  English  Sherry.  There 
is  jNd#,  Jerei  claro,  sometimes  called  ambar,  and  brown  or  golden,  Jeres 
oseuro.  The  former  is  generally  new  raw  wine  ^m  four  to  five  years 
old)  ;  the  latter  owes  its  rich  colour  to  age.  There  is  between  the  straw- 
{pajiMo)  coloured  and  the  deep  golden  a  golden  sherry,  which  partakes 
of  the  nature  of  both ;  we  believe  Tic  Ptpi  alw  behmgs  to  this  daas. 
This  latter  is  as  yet  but  little  known,  and  produced  in  small  quantities ; 
but  let  the  reel  connoisseur,  whose  palate  is  not  used  up  by  fashion  and 
prejudice,  taste  it,  and  he  will  have  no  other.  The  second  is  Jera 
AwumtiVadn^  so  called  from  the  peculiar  highly  aromatic  filbert  or  almond- 


zlvi  QKNERAL  INTORMATION. 

like  «roma  of  the  wine  grown  near  Montilk  (near  Cordova).  It  is  alio 
drier  ;  the  colour  is  more  or  lest  deep  piyisOy  the  lightest  being  the  oldest 
wine.  These  two  dij  sherries,  so  diffeient  in  oolonr  and  flavonr  and 
soent^  proceed,  however,  from  the  same  grapes  (whose  sorts  hare  not  pro- 
bably been  snffidently  studied  separately),  and  thus  often  several  botes 
contain  mittt  from  the  ssme  press,  and  yet  part  becomes  amontillado  and 
the  other  diy  sherry.  The  latter  is  xidier  than  the  former,  but  inferior 
in  bonqnet  The  transformation  takes  place  during  the  first  or  second 
year ;  by  what  means  has  never  been  ascertained.  'Die  amontillado  is  less 
abnndant  and  dearer,  and  serves  to  enrich  poorer  sherries — that  is,  not  to 
add  cuerpo  (body),  but  aroma.  The  grapes  from  which  these  two  diy  wines 
are  made  are  exposed  to  the  son  for  two  or  three  days  only ;  the  sweet 
wines  require  ten  or  twelve,  so  that  they  become  almost  raisins  (ptuat), 

8weH  Sherry  consists  of  three  sorts ;  Flajsrete,  Moscatel,  and  Pecbo- 
Qimenes.  The  Pigarete  is  made  from  the  Pedro-Qimenes  grapea,  which  are 
sweeter  than  the  dierry  grape,  and  are  left  exposed  to  the  sun  from  ten  to 
twelve  days,  and  thus  become  id  a  way  sun-raisins,  or  pasas.  The  name 
comes  from  that  of  the  *  hamlet  of  Pi^arete,'  where  it  was  first  made.  There 
is  scarcely  any  difference  between  it  and  Pedro-Gimenes,  both  proceeding 
from  the  ssme  grape.   Its  colour  is  dark,  its  fiavour  that  of  the  natural  grape. 

Moscatel  is  made  with  the  Muscat  grapes,  which  are  sweeter  still  than 
the  two  former,  and  darker  also.  T^ere  is,  besides,  a  delicious  sweet 
sherry,  called  '  Malvasia,'  superior  in  all  re^^ects  to 
not  unlike  Ftjarete,  but  not  abundantly  produced,  and  dear. 

Sherries,  when  genuine,  keep  for  an  infinite  time,there  beingbotas  of  one 
hundred  years  old.  Age  darkmis  the  colour  of  sweet  sherries  and  lightens 
that  of  dry  ones.  The  wine  can  be  bottled  in  a  very  few  daysafter  its  arrival 

It  forms  no  deposit  (pon^*  The  basis  of  adulterated  sherry  consists, 
on  an  average,  of  pale  mal^  sulphuric  acid,  fiavoured  .frt>m  the  bitter 
almond  oil,  with  a  high  percentage  of  alcoholic  spirit 

The  most  celebrated  wine  in  Spain,  after  sherry,  is  Malaga,  There 
are  two  sorts— dry  and  sweet  The  latter  is  the  well-known '  Mountains ' 
of  olden  time.  The  annual  produce  exceeds  40,000  pipes ;  691,403 
arrobas  of  wine  were  produced  in  1869,  of  which  three-fourths  are  ex- 
ported to  the  United  States,  South  America,  and  England.  The  average 
price  is  £6  per  butt,  and  excellent  Frasaflejo — very  old — may  be 
obtained  for  £\  the  arroba.  About  on»-twelfth  part  of  dry  Malaga  con- 
sists of  brandy.  LagrimoM^  the  sweetest  and  most  delicious  of  all,  is,  as 
its  name  poetically  indicates,  the  teart  or  droppings  of  the  ripe  grape 
hung  up  and  dried  in  the  sun,  and  obtained  without  pressure.  They  are 
of  different  qualities,  varying  frt>m  60r.  to  lOOr.  the  arroba.  Besides 
these  several  liqueurs,  brandies  are  manufactured  in  the  district,  and 
Curasao,  Anisette  de  Bordeaux,  etc,  well  imitated. 

ManMonillq, — A  most  delicioos,  highly-flavoured,  and  stomachic  white 
vine,  made  at  San  Lucar  de  Barraineda,  near  Cadiz,  and  so  called  from 


-- M.    SmUHB  Snha^aU  , 

li&  mccaadfld  la  iha  ftcBir,  I 
t  tha  KlidtfM  ot  Cdnlm  I 

«d  by  IbM  j-AhMT,  i  i]l  lo  i^f^ 


AUbuo  I.,  d  CU 
FniikL 

SOo. 


^3 


1 


GENERAL  DVOBMATION. 


OHBiaflAH  MoNABOHUB— V^fKUHMd!. 


Kiagdoaof 


of 


IL  . 

OidoAoIII.  . 
Sanchol. 

lUmiro  IIL  . 

BeraiiidoIL  . 

AlfoowV.  . 
Beraiiido  III. . 


CaITI  LS  AlfD  LBOlt 

Fenumdo    L 
DoflaSaadia 
SanchoII. 

AlfoowVI.     . 


DoflaUmcft  . 
Alfoow  VIL  (Bm- 

ptmdoc) 
SuichoIU.(elDc»- 

ado) 
AtfwMVni. 

XoZiqiM  I* 


n. 


AUboaoHL     . 
Dofia  Bereoffoda 
Sao  Fenumdo  IIL 
AUbmoX-MSabio) 


Sancho 


(al 


Biavo)  . 

Fanaado     IV.    (d 
£anlasado 
AUbmoXL     . 

PwiioL(alCniel) 
EoriqnalL     . 
JuaaX    , 

Eanqpain.   . 
Juan  IL  . 


BuiQua  Tv.  (d 
Iiapotaatt) 

Iiabal  la  CktdBea  . 
\  FaraaDoo  V.    . 

JaaaaOaLoca) 

PhiKpL  . 

ClMikt  L  of  Spab 
andV.  of  Ganuay 
— Carlea  Qoiato    . 

PluUpIL        .       . 


990 
WO 

I 


HnghCapal^) 


BtfaabadlL^Tf) 


1087 

1037 


TfxBBp  I. 


107a 
1B09 
na6 

1158 
iai4 

1188 

lajo 

ia44 
lasa 

laOS 


I3«a 

1350 

1969 

«379 
1390 

1407 
1451 


M74 

1504 
1516 

1560 


:s! 


LodaVn. 


•• 


StLodi. 


FUfipVL 
JaaDlL 

LiMbXL 


vin. 

L 


IL 
IX. 


Wniiaai  tiM  Coo- 


n. 


Kicwatd(CflBWfda 
LioiOi 


IIL 


Edward  m. 
Edward  m. 


GiaforyV.  (99^ 


End  of  KhaH&taoT 
Corao¥a« 


Papa  Giafory  VIL 

Tha    fiiat    Ouadb 
(io9sX 

Papa  Adrian  IV. 


Fourth  Oruaada  (laoO 


Papa  laaooMiC  IV. 
PapaBooi&oaVIIL 

fUMOuHioi  n  irtTni'a 


Pope    Baaa^ct  VL 
RMm(i      ' 
laaocaat 


<W^ 


Takfaw  of  CoMtaatl* 
nopio  br  Mftit^ffi^^* 
IL— Tha  Madid  at 


HaaryVIL 
HaaryVin. 


BdwudVL 


Caofila  aad  Angoo 

P.  laooc^  VIIL 
LooX.,  Popa. 
Battle  of  Pavia  (tsas) 


Paoim. 

St    BarthaloMaw't 
DaydSTaX 


mSIORT. 


U 


Chbuhan  M0NABOHIB8 — CofUmued. 


PbilipIIL 

Phaipiy. 


IL     . 
Philip  V.(abdic.) 

Pldip  V. . 
FcnaadoVL  . 
IIL    . 


CharieslVJabdIc) 

FowuMloVlL 

lMbdIL<fled) 


(abdic) 


AUboaoXIL . 


Year 

of 


169s 

1665 

1700 

«7«4 

«7«4 
X746 

V^ 

s8o8 

1833 
(■S3S) 

s868 

1871 

i«73 
1875 


LoobXIV. 

LodtXV. 
LooitXyi. 

Louia-Plulippe. 
Napolaooin. 


ILTIiIen. 
Gen.  MacMahoo. 


England. 


GeotfellL 

William  IV. 
Victoria. 


Pope  Innocil  X 

Pope  Clement  XL 
XIIL 


Pius  VII. 

Gregory  XVL 
PiusUt 


^ffMMiiil^  Ohmnology, 
The  Roman  date  mn  (en)  was  in  vae  in  Spain  until  the  ISth 
eentuy.  It  began  on  December  S5.  To  make  it  coirespond  with  the 
Anno  Domini,  thirty-eight  yeaza  must  be  added  to  the  latter.  The  Ntw 
Style  was  adopted  in  168S  ;  ten  days  must  be  added  of  the  New  Style 
to  any  di^  of  accord  to  the  Old  Style.  The  H\jia  of  the  Moors  he^ 
Vddaj,  Jnly  16,  A.ik  622,  em  660. 

Pbihoipal  MoNAsno  Obduui  in  Spaik. 


Oidar. 

jFouDQcn* 

A.D. 

Ofaaarvation*. 

««V|fQK]B^v 

1 

C*     A  11  Mil  ■§?»  ■ 

350 

In  the  reyn  of  PhiKp  III.  there 
were  upwards  of  9000  conrentSy  con* 

Dtnedkiiaee     . 

StBenedict     .        . 

Soo 

GamtJos  (Guthittiaas) 

Sl  Bmno. 

1086 

taining  60^1000  mooks,  beaidet  988 

«  aSDCBCBIIB 

St.  Frandaof  Aaiiaa* 

S909 

nonnnies.    In  the  dkiiDeaesof  Pun- 

m^^VD^^lCaUiV 

St.  Domingo    . 

less 

plona  and   Calahorra  alone    there 

Oip<irhiai  ♦ 

MateoBaacfai  .       . 

S5*s 

HycrawMwcs  • 

San  Ignadode  Loyola 

S540 

and  deny.    In  GastUe,  the  Ghnrch 

FoDoved  the  role  of 
St   Jerome:    foor 

poeBBiicd  la  mffliona  of  lanegas  of 

Olden ;     that    of 

reals  (end  of  17th  centoryX     The 

Spain  foonded  hy 
Tliomna  of  Sienna 

revenues   of    the   Spanish   Church 

hi   1807   were    about    six   miOioas 

,  m    • 

I3JO 

sfeBtfing. 

B^akt  of  Reftrmce, — ^The  earliest  records  of  Spanish  history  are  found  in 
general  and  local  prorindal  dironides.  The  period  in  which  they  were  written, 
oattfe  prcjndke,  and  presnre  from  without,  render  many  of  these  sources  not 
trustworthy.  The  first  writers  who  deserve  the  name  of  historians  are : — 
ZmrUa^  Morality  Mmdcwa^  Sigumaa^  Ribadem^gra,  2^9i^^ga^  Mariana^  Sambvait 
ffimra^  etc.  Coloma,  Melo,  and  Solis's  works  are  all  trustworthy  and  interest- 
ing, though  wanting  in  inyestigation.  The  best  modem  works  are  Dmkam^ 
Sl  HUairt^  Lafuente^  Gc^^amgos, 


fiS  CtKNSRAL  mFORMATIOM. 


Spanish,  the  modem  name  for  CaUeUano,  it  the  leralt  of  the  Tidari- 
tudes  and  final  triumph  of  the  Latin  oyer  the  different  dialects  and 
tongues  that  have  been  spoken  in  the  Peninsula  by  the  different  races  that 
settled  successiyely  there,  modified  and  combined  with  that  most  prevalent 
at  one  time,  the  Arabic.  The  earliest  language  spoken  in  Spain  was  the 
Iberian,  or  Basque.  The  few  tegments  that  are  extant  of  Uie  literature 
of  this  solitary  race  are  among  the  earliest  known,  found  in  the  south  of 
Europe.  The  Iberians  probably  once  spread  over  the  whole  Peninsula, 
and  many  of  its  rivers,  mountains,  and  cities,  bear  names  of  evident 
Basque  origiiL 

Spain,  as  is  known,  was  a  most  important  Roman  colony,  which  con- 
tributed considerably  to  the  wealth  and  power  of  the  moUier^country. 
Latin  became  general,  and  Spain  produced  some  of  the  most  classical 
Latin  writers.  It  became  corrupted  subsequently  ;  and  though  continued 
to  be  spoken  during  the  second  and  third  centuries,  the  clergy  contributed 
to  its  &ial  decay,  as  much  by  their  share  of  the  then  universal  ignorance 
as  by  the  necessity  they  were  in  of  addressing  the  people  that  knew  only 
the  *  lingua  mstica.'  Classics  were  forbidden,  and  with  time  (7th  century) 
the  tongue  spoken  was  no  better  than  jaigoiL  The  Qoths  adopted  it,  but 
added  to  its  confusion  by  the  mixture  of  their  own  barbarous  language. 
The  last  vestige  of  Latinity  in  Spain  is  found  in  the  works  of  San  Iddoro 
of  Seville,  while  the  first  literary-  effort  of  the  new  race  is  the  Bible, 
translated  by  Bishop  Ulphilas  (307  aj>.) 

The  Qoths  fashioned  the  Latin  forms  to  the  genius  of  their  syntaxes.* 
Thus  the  Latin  UUf  iUa,  were  used  as  definite  articles ;  tile  homo  (el 
hombre),  xUa  mulier  (la  muger).  Unui  was  used  as  the  indefinite,  unus 
homo,  una  mulier.  The  verbs  were  likewise  subject  to  changes.  They 
introduced  the  present  use  of  the  auxiliaries  habere  and  eae;  and  instead 
of  vict,  said,  he^eo  victue  (he  venddo) ;  instead  of  amor,  turn  amatue  (soy 
amado).  The  me  became  the  sign  of  the  genitive  ;  ad  became  the  present ; 
d  (to),  and  so  on.  This  formation  was  not  definitely  accomplished  until 
several  centuries  after,  and  was,  moreover,  influenced  by  the  contact  with 
Arabic.  Such,  indeed,  was  the  influence  and  prevalence  of  the  harmonious, 
sonorous  Moslem's  tongue,  so  well  suited  to  the  climate  and  the  mind  of 
Spain,  that  in  many  regions  it  superseded  Latin,  and  even  the  Bible  had 
to  be  translated  into  Arabic  to  be  understood.  Coins,  public  acts,  etc^ 
down  to  the  fourteenth  century,  testify  this  fact,  and  the  infusion  of  the 
Arabic  has  subsisted  to  this  day,  one-eighth  of  the  language  being  of  pure 
Arabic  origin.  Most  words  beginning  withal — such  as  algatrrobo,  dlgoden, 
alpebra;  with  #,  such  as  emnaque,  Mumo,  aamarra^  attest  their  Moorish 
origin.    At  the  time  of  the  expulsion  of  the  Moors,  two  languages  may  be 


LANGUAGS.  liil 

Mid  to  have  been  proTalent  among  the  GhiifitianB  ,  tbat  spoken  in  the 
north,  consisting  of  Qothicised  Latin  with  additions  from  the  Basque  and 
local  dialectSy  and  that  of  the  south,  or  corrupted  Latin,  with  an  infusion 
of  the  Arabia  On  the  final  triumph  of  the  Cross  over  the  Crescent,  the 
union  of  peoples  wss  followed  by  a  combination  of  the  two  preyalent 
tongues,  whi^  resulted  in  Castilian.  The  earliest  document  in  this  lan- 
guage is  the  '  Carta  Pnebla '  of  Avil^s,  a  chart  granted  to  that  city  by 
AlfcmsoYU^  and  dated  1165.  There  are  critics  who  assert  it  is  a  forgery, 
and  that  the  seven  Partidos  are  the  earliest  document  extant 

The  Poem  of  the  Cid  (1200)  is  another  monument  of  that  early 
period.  The  Castilian  subscquenUy  received  those  modifications  which 
are  to  be  naturally  ascribed  to  great  political  changes  and  events  ;  and 
althou^  its  fundamental  principles  and  features  were  not  altered,  it  hsa 
owed  many  peculiarities  of  detail,  words,  etc.,  to  the  intercourse  with 
Italy,  the  wars  in  Flsnders  and  Qeimany,  and  the  intermarrisges  with 
Frsnoe.  The  period  of  refinement  in  literature,  of  exaggerated  niceties,  of 
euUiimo,  the  great  writers  of  Philip  lY  .*s  reign  may  be  said  to  have  fixed 
in  its  general  character,  which  the  Spanish  Academy  (founded  1714,  in 
imitation  of  that  of  Paris)  contributed  to  sustain.  Castilian  became,  and 
has  not  ceased  to  be,  the  oflidal  tongue.  In  many  regions  of  Spain  the 
early-formed  dialects  subsist  stUl,  and  are  spoken  almost  exclusively  by 
the  lower  clsssee — ^namely,  in  the  E.  and  N  JB^  the  Yalendan,  Mallorquin, 
Aragonese,  Navarrese,  and  the  Catalan.  In  the  W.  we  have  the  Qal- 
lidan,  Astarian,  mostly  modifications  from  the  Portuguese  ;  and  in  the 
N.  the  Basque  and  its  dialects,  the  Navanese,  Biscayan,  Souletin,  etc.  Li 
the  centre  Uie  Osstilian  is  spoken  in  its  purity,  partacularly  at  Toledo. 
In  the  S.  Osstilian  is  also  spoken,  but  with  some  peculiarities  in  the  pro- 
nunciation, such  as  the  ceeeo,  that  *  pingue  quiddam  .  .  .  atque  pere- 
grinnm,'  which  even  Cicero  noticed  when  they  spoke  Latin.  Charles  Y. 
is  repoited  to  have  said  that  German  is  the  fittest  tongue  to  address 
hofses,  French  to  converse  with  statesmen,  Italian  to  speak  with  ladies, 
English  to  answer  birds,  but  that  Spanish  was  the  only  language  that 
eould  be  used  to  address  kings,  princes,  and  the  Almighty.  It  ib 
sonorous,  harmonious,  mijeetic,  well  suited  to  oratory,  tmgedy,  and  the 
pulpt.  The  guttural  sounds  of  the  Jcta  (;),  inherited  from  the  Arabs, 
and  the  # ,  as  often  pronounced,  are  peculiar  and  not  unpleasant,  espe- 
cially from  a  pretty  woman's  lips.  The  grammatical  forms  are  based  on 
the  Latin,  and  very  like  Italian.  In  compound  words  and  infiexions, 
however,  it  is  inferior  to  northern  languages,  and  has  to  recur  to  auxili- 
aries to  distinguish  certain  moods  of  verbs. 

The  grammar  is  based  on  the  Latin  one.  There  are  twenty-eight 
lettea.  The  masculine  article  isd;  feminine,  la  ;  neuter,  U>,  For  the 
sake  of  euphony  they  are  sometimes  inserted,  as  el  agua  (for  la  offua),  d 
aiocar.    The  final  a  found  in  names — vis.  Sanchex,  Peres,  Gonitalea-^ 


liv 


GENERAL  INFORMATION. 


stands  for  a  genitive,  in  lien  of  '  son  of  Sancho,  of  Peio  (or  PedioX 
Gonzaloy  etc.  The  accent  on  the  fi  produces  the  pronunciation  of  the  yn 
of  the  French  (^ogn^r),  and  of  the  Italian  i^Mgno.  The  augmentatiyes  are 
expressed  bj  the  final  a$o,  ata;  an,  ana;  ate,  aia,  added  to  the  sub- 
stantive ;  hombre  becomes  hombron,  hombrote,  hombraso.  The  most 
usual  diminutives  end  in  tea,  tea  ;  tUo,  iUa  ;  tia,  ita  ;  uda,  uela  ;  pi^  (a 
foot)'  becomes  piecedto,  piececillo  ;  piececico.  The  comparatives  are : 
better,  mejor  ;  worse,  peor  ;  greater,  mayor  ;  lesser,  menor,  and  supe- 
rior uid  inferior.  Often  added  are  the  adverbs,  tan,  as  much  ;  mis, 
more  ;  menos,  less.  The  superlatives  end  in  Mno,  Uima ;  errimo, 
errima.  The  «  is  the  usual  sign  of  the  pluraL  Thit  is  este';  that,  ese ; 
that  yonder,  aquel,  with  the  feminines  esta,  aquella.  Mi$u,  is  mio  ;  thine, 
tujo  ;  yours,  vuestro  and  de  listed,  which  stands  for  the  old  Vuestra 
Merced,  your  worship,  now  written  in  abbreviation,  Vd. 

The  best  methade  are  those  of  OUendorf  and  Cornelia,  and  a  good 
grammar  is  published  by  the  Academia  de  la  Lengua. 


VERB  'HABER,' 
TO  HAVE. 

IfuUcative  Presents 


Yohe     .       .    / 

Tu  hasCfrauUftr)  Om  koH 

El(elk]ha      .    kt{ixtlU)kat 

VcMoCrot  habdt  y^mkmm 
EUothui        .    tkty  ' 


GLOSSARY. 

VERB  'TENER,' 
TO  HAVE,  OR  POSSESS. 

IndkatnH  PresenL 


Voteago 
Totienet 
El  tiene 
NototTM 


VonitrM  tends  jwiAonr 

(Uatedtien^ 

tttoally  uaed) 
EUotdenett  .    tktyham 

N.B.— 7>  hmm  (pnMiiMJfi)  k  Ttmtr.  I  have  teen,  H§  vUU,  I  have  a  Mick,  Ttmg»  tm  hattmi. 


VERB  'SER,' 
TO  BE. 

IndkaHvt  Present 


Votoy  .        .    /( 
Tucrea(fiuaiKar)  tksm  mrt 
El(tfeIJa)e«  •    ht  {tx  tJU)  is 
Noeotroe  MOKM  wtart 
Voeotroeentt      jwi< 

(more  usually 

Ustedcsson) 
EUos(tfellas)8on<Vf. 


The  other  tenses  are  : — 


FttL  Per. 


FmL  Itt^. 
FkLPAf. 

'    ■*      '* — 
Stt9»  Prtt,  Iw^ 


Yobabia;  yoera 
Yohube|  yofa4 
Yo    habia   habido;  yo 

babiasido 
Yobabi^sido 
Yo    babr«   babido:  yo 

babt^  sido 
Hayayo;  seayo 
Yo  baya ;  yo  sea 
Yobubiera,bafaria,bubi. 

ese ;  filers,  seria,  fbese 


SiA.  Pr9i,P09f,      .  Yo    babia    babido  :    yo 

baya  sido 
SiA,  Phuf^mm^erf.  Yo  bubien.  babriiL  bnbi- 

ese,  baoido;  do^  do. 

da  sido 
StA.  Pmi,  Im^,    .    Yo  bubiere ;  yo  fbere 
Stik  SsgmmdtPttf.    Yo  bubiere  babido ;  yo 

bubiere  sido 
ImMm  .    Haber:  ser 

InJimPpf,    .       .    Haber  babido,  baber  side 


Monday,  i^asMS 
Tuesday.  MmrUt 
Wednesda 


Friday,  Vitmtt 


DAYS. 


Saturday,  ^iJ«^ 
Soadav,  D0mi$if0 
A  boUday,  dia  st/Uttm 
Fast-day,  dim  dt  mymm0 


Oncea-day, 

Each  day,  M^  dtti 

To^y,  htf 

To*BBOROW, 

Yesterday, 


jaSa 


MONTHS. 


ssr 


AatBa,r/<iM> 
Bmt,i/tmUr 


%«l* 

■4.«l*o 

sS" 

Sss^V 

:6is?r£ 

ni,Aiiir 

I>*W 

nuonoira  (laa  FR^coiOHa). 

I  Quuter,  faqnh,  f/  nwnlf,  1*  I  TrcbK  tItrUt, 


SBATMLUMd  BT  SAILVAT. 


JMmiMt^iHrmt 


v.isiST' 

II B  (oiH  u  nil,  fu  rf /bwr 
Ho*  tOSit  H  r  t^.^JkMirl 

Too  bM,  <bOHlMi>  H/liMtf 


^  jq^  (bM  %ui■l^  b« 
Do  w«  cHDCB  airiinB  Ihc*T 


THI  BnAHBIU*  (n  TAPOB). 


To  on  OH  opk  diArtar 
To   li|ht  Um  Cr^  i— Zw 

Stoaw  daor,  titrrw  V4.  fa 
CUI  ■)r««id.  Onw  (V  tf 


Ivi 


GKNKRAL  INIORMAIION. 


iM  US  hftvt  aone  dioMr  im- 
mediately, DtttM   yd.   dt 


Dinner  it  rendj,  mtd  Utia  U 

etmiJm 
B^tt,  cmme  dt  vmem 
BoSltdmnt,tmm0fi0eidm 
Salt  meat,  cm 
Roast,  Mtttdt 
Beer,  Ut  cgrwtam 
BtM»,Ub&ttlU 
Biecutt^  tM  MmmsW 
"Bmooia,  ^  toeiM0 
Brandy,    #/ 


cogmmc 


A  du 


butter,   U 


An,  aoM  gmOimm  mm 


A  fTwy.  t0M  thmftfm 

Outt,  vA9»  dt  BmnUm 
Vin  oidinaire^  «Aw  apmnm^  dt 

JmsU 
Tocanr 


TBI  DOVHIB  (la  OOMIDA). 
Chocolafe,  #/cl<CT/<f/lr 

AcoPk  iMMteae 

XIm  dininr^tMn,  4/ 
Adiifa,Mf/^kiS» 
Til»led1iOte,Aii 
Where  it  mT  covert 

mtd  md  cmiitrUt 
An  cnf,  mmA$itm0 
AfitMoni*  Mii 
Afith,#//Moe^ 
A  lock,  tM  toiA^ 
Grapet|  £w  amtw 
naie,  ut  Hton 
Ham,  ttimmmm 
K\aiSit,mmcmckilU 
Lamb^  imUrmtra 
AhniH  mmmldm^mnk 

liq^atcm,  0I  Uarr 
Meat,  laearms 
CoUmet 
Ai 


MttttoQ,  #/  imrnert 
AnQtuM,mmmUriiUm 


Oyaten,  Uumirmt 
natrfi/msidtrim 
Acalo^  mm /mttti 
Apeaco,  tfifi  ' 
Pocatoei^  £w 


A  lane  dish,  mmmfmtmi* 
A  rabbit,  mmcmmn^ 
Aialad, 


To 

A  tenriette,  tMMS  ttrwinttM 
A  tea-^ooo,  tMM  cmckmritm 
Swttii,dmieg 

Aspooofnl,  •«««  cwdbireiAi 
Soiqi^Zaa^ 
Suf^,  timMmear 
Sopper,  XtMM 
A  tumbler,  tw  muv 
Avine-clasiu  m$imc0^ 
VefetabKS,  uuligmmirm 
Water,  Hapia 
Wine,#/vM# 


The  offos^cr  bureau, «/  4A9- 

A  letter,  ssitf  cmrtm 

Are  there  any  kcten  for  mo  t 

kt^  cmrUu  parm  mtit 
Here  is  my  naoM,  t$U  m  mm 


THE  POfiT-OVnOB  (WL  OORBBO). 
Postage  staaqis^  afUbr  4i/ «0r> 

Sia|de 
dMs 


Where  is  the  Hst  t  dtmdintd 

laKiimt 
Is  the  office  closed  f  «fAI  ctr- 


rmd»  H  dgtpmdu^ 

Is  it  too  hnvy?  kmy  tacnt  dt 

j€$0f 

Must  this  letter  be  pcepaidt 
Ast|f  f"  Jtmrn^mtmr  tttm 
fimflmt 

The  postman,  </  c«rtor» 


THB  OUBIOM-HOUBI  (lA  ADUAHA). 


An  employ^  im  mni^mMmv,  tfw 

va/o 
Is  the  lunage  examlaed  beret 

«r  reguirm  mamieitfmi^mgt  t 
Clothes,  «s  T9fm 
Won,  ifsed^ 
For  my  own  use, /ens  Mrf  iM» 


tariff,  •IrtglmmmtU 


The  duty,  jlxt  dSrrwoUs 
What  must  I  pay? 

Goutraband.  ttcmuw^ 
The  keys,  Aw/S£sw» 
Shut  the  trunks,  hwrrv  CTito^ 

£if  mtmlttmt 
A  dfessing<ase,  to  micnmtirt 

(not  Spanish,  but  used) 


A  caxpet-bag,  mm  mc9  dt 

Ahatoox,  mnm  mmihrtrtrm 
A  Tcty  huye  box,  mm  mtmmn0 
linen,  rtfa  blmmem 
To  searoi,  wisiimr,  fwfitirmr 
To  plomber,  /mwt  Ut^Umtm 


vnjQwsoB^  FOBmro,  bidino. 


Stable,  Airwerfrw 
Post-boy,  #/  prntiUom,  dtlmm 


Driver.  4i  mtmytnUp  ctmdmd^i^ 
What  IS  the  name  ofthisTil- 

laget   tmmm  at  Ijmmmt  4iU 

^mM0t 
Anw§uJgtimm»ml^Mr 
We  are  near. 


The  drag,  Xs/AtndU 

The  MAvn^fur, «/ 4mii# 

Awheel,sM«nMiAi 

The  pole,  Is  IsMSHs 

A  team  of  mules,  mm  Hrfdf 


tillm 

.-. , ci  mm 

Scii'iups,  ittttifiiM 
Amh^mdidiigif 


fka^X^mnydimlUI 

Tostop^/erwr 

To  post,  omrtr  imfmim 

A  poorboire,  mmmwtr^pimm 

Whoi  shaU  we  get 

Abckile,«N«3ridSs 

Is  there  any  dangcrt  hmy  /r- 

Ugrt^ 
Forward,  mdtimUt 
Take  care,  Um§m  Vd 


TOGABXJLABT. 


iTli 


^^« ^r  ^ 


USXIRpWRIXINO  (PASi.  BBOBIdlB  UVA  OABTi^ 

Sorelopes,  lot  tobras 

ScdiBf -wax, «/ Aktv 

A  wafer,  ammmMm 

To  put  a  kttw  into  the  P.O., 


A  letter-box,  tM^aunw 
Take  thii  letter  to  the  P.O., 


A  GAB  (UH  OOOmi  DB  ALQUHAB). 

Goback,^wr2MFi£ 

Gofint,flii^fe 

Go  alowar,  vaya  Vi 

By  toe  eon 


Stop  here,  >y»v  Vd,a^ 
Goavther,nMw  Vd,mual^ 
mthm 


What  is  the  &ret  cwMi^f 
It  is  too  nmch,  n  dtmmtimtip 
I  shall  oot  paj  more,  m»  ib 

gmriwmt, 
not  migngod,  M  aifmim 
Goafdunan,  c0cMtf9 


Of  A  TOWN   (nr  UVA  dUDAD). 


The  theati%  «/ ite^rv 
The  bank,  «/Amm» 
Cab-itaad,Ai/erW<i<ftfac<Ur 

ibmifmUr 
TheraeQiii,jdlef7>#/ 
The  faioen,  W^4i 
The  poblic  walk. 
The  palace,  «//ciSec£^ 


Aaaprao,  tmtUUmimi 
A  collar,  tes  < 


A 


^m 


The  ongistnite, «/ M«r£r4nedl9 
The  Mayor. «/  akmUi 
Which  «  ttie  way  to~^  par 

Turn  to  the  ri^  va«tas  K(dl 

T^un  to  the  left,  vmi^m  ViL  d 

UtMfttitrda 
A  pofacesBan,  tM  tuvtut  m€  ft' 

*ic$Mm  titt  fttiftdttl^ 

THB  WABHmO  (LAYAB). 
Anai 


A  street,  flMM  oi^ 

A  geadanne^  fMpMmtis  «wil 
A  89aare,  S0M  iMua 

I  wishto8ee,MSMVtvr,ciii^;ter 
I  do  oot  ondentaad,  m» 


I  do  Boc  neak 

I  aia  an  Knflithinan,  mflngHt 


B  upper-petticoat,  iM 

Amumd  waistcoat,  tm  dimitn 

mUritr^dtJUmtla 
Anaplcbi,  wmtamUa 
A  night-shirt,  som  ttmim  dt 


A    pocket-handkerchier,    tes 

/^^to<friSs 
A  neCikerdueC  aw 
Sheets,  Aw 
Aahirt,Ai 


Stayii  •i€mme,  Uf^m 
StodongB,  in  itkidtitttt,  hu 

MMttwOflonK) 
Washing,  Aceier 
Wadung-bin,  U  amUm  df  im 

Let  OS  count,  comitmot 
Ming  the  clean  hnen  inunedt* 
atdy,  iraigm  yd  la  nyto 

The  f^Bipt.  £sf  tiuutchtu 
Starch,  •Imlmkbm 
TomtOt/imtackar. 


PaoMtmciATioic.— The  fbllowis«  are  the  chief  pfwnHarififs  of  Spanish . 
mk;  #  as  «,  and  sounded  at  the  cad  of  words;  /ssm;  tfas«»;  Masfw(Cueaca^/rw«.Quenka): 
rhdhf  and  i  ja  k (0v9m,/rm.  Herona):  jw  as «r (GuadalqaiTir,  /rvw.  WadalkeTeer) ;  M 
■  silent: /asAa«m>>«>-  Hra ; /f  as  i^  (&iri%yf««.  Sereelia):  Z/ initial  as  r  (Uama, 
/mau  Yataa) ;  «  ai  n^  (Mor,  /rvw.  Sanfar) ;  f«  as  A  (Ouizota,  >nni.  Kchoty)L 


VOCABULARY. 

A  ftm  ui^  Wcrdi  and  £xpre$non$  irantlaUd  into  Spamshfor  tk$ 

Tcwriiti. 


Bacoii.  Ucim0 


Bad»<MMa 


Becr^iop^  imSemm 
Bin  (aooountX  c«r»/« 
Book,filrv 


Bhie, 
Bolster,  oiAsemi 
Boots,  M« 
Bottle,  A»lM&i 


Brandy, 


Iviii 


GENKRAL  INFORMATION. 


BnakSut,  mimtmrm 
Bog,  dkmekt 
Bunch  of  gn^tes,  rmeiim^ 
Butter,  wumttcm 
Button,  hoUm 

Cab,  ^ckt  dt  mlquiUr 
Candle,  wis 


Cauli 


ChnmW-pot,  0U* 
Change,  ettmoU 


Church,  Mttim 
Claret,  wmcdtBurdmt 

Omt,/fwc 

Coat,  frock,  iSrv^ 

Cod,  IWfff/fff 

witti  mOk,  MM  MCM 

CoiBb,/r^ 
Coik,  C9rck0 


Oa^ 


SBall.Au/Ai 


^  «««r»or«wil« 
Cutlet,  Mff^SrAi 


Deieert,  ^atirt 
PiBing*foon, 
Door,  ^ttfrte 


Drawm  (to  wear).  < 
Dniwen  (dieat  oOi  t^mmtm 
Dratring-room,  sola 
Driver,  €0dktr9 

Eaklv,  itw^nut0 

Eatiag*hoai 

BggfAtmv 


FaM,Mtemd0 


Foot,/rfr 

Fore 

Forl^  ttmtdtr 

Fritten»  ' 


GtJiM(wineX 
Glast  tnmhler. 
Gloves 


Grape,  ««• 

Craw. 
Guard 


Haol/** 


Handfcenrhief,/e<awi^ 
Hard,  duro 
Hare,  /Mnr 
Hat,  iMw^rvrv 
Hci^  cmhr 

I  HoC,MiUM/!r 

I,  K# 


iMd 


water,  ivaw  MM  JIMI^ 

I  Key,  Ibev 

I  Kidneya,  n'Mmn 

^  KwSk,aickiIU 

Lamp,  Au«|^l«ni 
Landlord,  «/4MM# 
Late,  tmrde 


liftx,  Jk4g»d0 

Luggage,  4yMr>vv 
Luggage,  avtidea  oC  inlCM 


Matdiea  (lucifei^ 

Milk,ikAtf 
Midnight,  timdimtc\t 
Milliner,  tmdisUt 

Monung,  miHUmm 
Mnatard,  tmtttmm 
Muttoa,  emtm  df  emrm^rif 


V  Amm,  strwiUtim 
Needle,  4i|f«(;Vi 

Oil  (bunpX  iteeiit  dt  qmimqmt 


PAm,/e!^ 
Partridge, /cnfie 

Pear, /mi 

Peas,rMnHi4M 

Pen,>/aMiM 

Pmtr./imifmtm 

Phytic,  m$ea$ctMa 

Pickles, /<c/^ 

Pie,/«rilr/ 

PillnT  efwwteA 
Plate, //eil# 
Plate  (sihrerX/Aiib 
Pbted  goods, /AifM/ 
Pork,Mn^ 
Porter^«e»yaWW*  or* 

Poet-ofice  (genonl). 
Postage  stamis  mIU 


Potato,  A*^!ate 
Poultry, /«//mmv 


Railway, 
Rat,  reiki 


Roast,  msmd0 


SALMOMp  ae/j 
Saucer.  Hatillt 


Shirt, 

Shop,/dMMAi 

Si^W«nN# 


SotiPk>«^ 

Socles,  httintt 

Sott,kamd^ 

Sole(fishX 

Soup,«?,»a 

Spoon,  rafolani 

Station  (laihrayX  ttUtcim 

Steamhoat,  fl«i/0r 

Strawberries,  ,^vaar 

Street,  MiXr 

String,  .mti^Imi 

Sugar, 


Tailbcloth, 

Tea,  it 

Thread,  i«& 

Ticket,  ^i^lr 

Train,  irwm 

Train,  express,  ^wia^j^rw 

Toast,  tMtmda 

Tobacco,  UUmc0 

To^ytVr 
To-morrow,  um 

Towel,  ImAW 
Trousers,  ptuttMl0i$st 
Turkey, /aJ» 

Umbkblla, /anifwar 

Vbal,  «ansri<r  ilcnwrv 


Waistooat,  ckmtte^ 
Waiting-rooBB,    rr/.i    i<r  dBiv* 


Washing,  rwAa 

Watch,  rvZer 

Water  (hoifrngtiM  crnHmU 

Water  lor  feet,  afiNi /ens  Aw 

Waterdoeet,  rttrtU 
Wide,  awdM 
White,  Mmm» 
Wine,  VM# 
Wiae-i^aas,  «iS^ 

Ybllow,  mmmrilh 
Yesterday,  i^ier 
Yoa,Mte^ 


LITERATURB. 

For  th»>Afni/Mid  #  when  tlie  word  eads  with  a  vowd,  and  m  when  with  a 
OOMMQir  1ZPB188IONB  AHD  QUnnOM& 


What,  whtchT  f«r,  nM/f 

Wheat  mMd^f 

Win  joat  fMmr  tuttdf 

Have  yoaftittu  mtitdt 

By 


Bjrthar^y^riAk 
An  joaf  MiSa  tuttdf 


HowT  C9ttt0  f 

Whyt/fryMtff 

That,«f«tf/ 

How  mocfa?  cmmmUt 

Guiyoii7/«M£ri»/n/f  

{jw  ttk0d*m4mo$  (miny  First  floor,  frimur  fim 
f0  M0etHt0  (rejioire)    |  Second  floor,  ugmtd0 
IV  faarrv  (denre)        I  Make  haste,  4<r /r«M 


How  many?  cmmmimt 
Howdoyoadof  cpm^itvmi 
Quite  wdl,  thank  you,  mraif 

Siem/ttrmaerwirm  mtitd 
Which  is   tha  way  tot  >^ 

dtmdt  Mvnmf 


Iflteratora. 

Sfavibh  Liteimtaie  may  be  divided  into  five  periods  : — 

1.  Roman  role^  transfonnatioii  of  language  1st  to  7th  century. 
8.  From  iuTasion  of  the  Moon  to  reign  of  Alfonso  X^  1861. 

3.  From  this  reign  to  the  marriage  of  Isabel  the  CSatholic  and 
wan,  1474. 

4.  From  that  erent  to  the  accession  of  the  Austrian  House. 
6.  From  Philip  Y.  to  the  present  day. 

The  most  remarkable  wiiten  of  the  present  day  are  : — The  Duke 
of  Biras,  a  poet  whose  ballads  are  full  of  feeting,  eloquence,  snd  breathe 
the  sfnrit  of  bygone  days  ;  Bspronceda,  a  charming  poet,  who  died  very 
young — he  beknged  to  the  Byionian- Werther  school ;  the  satirist  Lena ; 
Zorilla,  the  most  popular  of  present  poets ;  Hartaembush,  of  German 
origin,  a  successful  dramatist,  as  well  as  Ventura  de  la  Yega  ;  the  ex- 
cellent 'peintre  de  genre'  Mesonero  Bomanos  ;  the  historian  D.  Modesto 
Lsfuente  ;  in  the  drama,  sgain,  the  genial  Tein  of  Spanirii  talent,  D. 
Lois  l^guilas,  Tamayo,  et&,  Uiere  are  qrmptoms  of  improTement  .  Litera- 
ture is  gaining  &Tour.  iWe  for  reading,  awakened  by  French  literary 
translations  and  the  extension  of  newspaper  literature,  is  spreading  hat 

Hie  great  importance  and  high  station  that  Spanish  literature  occupies 
render  its  study  a  daily  greater  &Tourite  with  Qermans,  Knglish,  and 
French.  Indeed,  its  principal  works  are  better  known  and  oftener  read 
in  (Germany  than  they  are  in  the  natire  land  of  their  authors.  The  heit 
work  to  consult  ii  the  *  History  of  Spanish  Literature,'  by  G.  Tieknor. 
Tlie  best  edition  of  classical  Spanish  authon  is  that  published  by  Riba- 
deneyra.  The  works  of  Oerrantes  (Don  Quixote),  which  this  editor  is 
publishing,  will  be  the  best  edition  erer  obtained.     Baudry's  edition  of 

*  Eariy  and  Modem  Spanish  authon'  is  also  good,  and  chiefly  got  up  and 
superintended  by  SeSor  D.  Bug.  Ochoa.    To  bibliophiles  we  recommend 

*  Bosayo  de  una  Hblioteca  Bspa&ola  de  Libros  raros  y  curiosis,'  based  on 
the  well-known  Spanish  book-worm,  GaUazdo,  and  written  by  Sres.  Zaroo 
del  YaUa  and  Bayon ;  toIs.  i  and  iL  hare  recently  been  published. 

Those  desirous  to  know  the  mannen  and  custcmis  of  the  countiy  may 
peruse  M.  Thtophile  Gautiei^s '  Yoyage  en  Espagne.'    M.  Lateur's  ohann 


Ix  GXNSBAL  INFORMATION. 

log  *  £tade8  snr  I'Eepagne '  are  also  giaphic  and  aocnrate,  and  so  are  IL 
PhiL  Charles'B  *  fitodes  tor  I'EBpagne,'  Parifl. 

M.  Doxy's  '  ftecheiches  snr  THist  et  la  Litt  de  I'Espogne  pendant  le 
Moyen  Age/  S  vols.,  Lejden,  1860,  second  edition,  is  highly  inter- 
esting. For  a  general  and  comprehensiye  knowledge  of  Spanish  litera- 
ture, see  'History  of  Spanish  Literatore,'  by  Frederick  Bouterwek, 
trandated  from  the  original  German  by  Thomasina  Boss,' with  notes  by 
the  tianslator — ^London,  David  Bogae,  1847. 

Arohiteoture. 

Spain  stands  pre-eminent  among  nations  for  the  number  and  importance 
of  its  religions,  civil,  and  military  edifices.  It  has  been  surpassed  by  no 
other  country  in  this  respect  and  equalled  by  veiy  few,  and  even  these — 
we  mean  Italy,  Qeimany,  and  France— do  not  possess  the  same  variety 
of  styles  without  exceeding  the  first-rate  excellence  of  the  examples  of 
each.  The  different  races  that  settled  here  in  turn,  whose  sway  lasted 
several  centuries — the  Romans,  Qoths,  and  Arabs — ^were  all  builders,  all 
artlBts,  each  with  their  own  peculiar  style.  Edifices  were,  besides,  likely 
to  be  more  numerous  in  this  than  in  most  other  countries,  in  a  land 
where  quames  of  beautiful  soft  and  hard  stone  seemed  to  invite  the 
buildez^s  hand ;  where  oak  and  pine  forests  abounded  ;  where  the  glo- 
rious light  of  sun  and  stars  give  such  relief  to  outlines,  such  depth  to 
shadows,  such  brightness  of  tints  to  stone  and  marble  ;  where  the  soft 
air,  but  rarely  moistened,  embalms  the  ruin  and  preserves  the  monument 
better  and  more  generously  than  the  hand  of  man  ;  where  rich  mines 
exist  everywhere,  and  yielded  treasures  to  defray  the  expenses  and  mate- 
rials to  heighten  the  efibct 

The  architecture  of  Spain  has  been  comparatively  free  from  that 
foreign  influence  and  fashion  which  in  other  countries  have  crippled 
native  genius.  It  may  be  said  to  have  seldom  been  imitative,  or  the 
result  of  adaptation  and  comparison.  Foreign  styles,  no  doubt,  were  . 
implanted  with  new  races  in  the  rich  soil  of  Spain  ;  they  grew  luxuriously, 
but  never  lost  the  standard  original  type  ;  and  when  it  did  at  any 
period  adopt  new  accessories,  not  general  forms,  the  phase  was  native — 
that  is,  belonged  to  races  predominating  exclusively  and  for  centuries  in 
Spain.  Although  placed  so  near  Italy  and  France,  yet  Spain  stood  for 
centuries  a  stranger  to  both.  Hence  that  abrupt  diffdrenoe  in  art,  which 
observers  may  remark  between  France  and  Spain  as  they  cross  the 
frontiers. 

Spanish  architecture  during  the  middle  ages  was  almost  exclusively 
religions,  palaces  being  little  else  than  the  chieftidn's  stronghold,  and 
public  edifices  not  required  where  the  people  were  slaves  ;  its  history 
has  been  to  a  certain  extent  that  also  of  the  Spanish  Church.  The 
vidssitudeB  of  the  latter  may  be  traced  in  the  numberless  edifices  that 


ABOHITBOrURSi  bd 

were  ereeted  ;  the  antagonism  between  the  regalar  and  eecular  cleig7y 
and  final  anpremaej  of  the  latter,  determining  the  early  generalisation  of 
doiatered  oonTentoal  buildings,  and  the  subsequent  erection,  in  their 
stead,  of  parish  churches  and  cathedrals — facts  that  influenced  not  a 
little  the  architects  of  these  ages.  The'  Church  was  an  imperium  m 
impmrio  ;  the  cathedrals  were  the  centres  of  all  the  movement,  the  heart 
of  the  people.  Within  its  precincts  the  corU»  often  assembled,  the  kings 
were  christened,  anointed,  and  buried.  The  mystical  Autos,  or  Sacred 
Plays,  were  frequently  peribnned.  They  were  also  museums  of  natural 
history,  where  stuffed  animals  of  rare  species  were  carefully  preserred, 
beside  specimens  of  predous  marbles,  corals,  elephanti^  tusks,  eta,  sent 
as  presents  by  Eastern  princes  or  successful  nayigators.  The  greatest 
architects,  painters,  sculptors,  were  employed  to  erect  and  decorate 
them.  The  finest  specimens  of  artistiod  carpentry,  iron  and  silyer- 
smithi^  work,  and  glass,  were  to  be  sou^t  for  within  their  walls. 

In  Spain,  therefore,  the  student  of  architecture  has  a  great  deal  to 
see,  to  admire,  and  to  learn ;  and  despite  the  neglect  and  vandalism 
which  hare  strewn  the  land  with  ruins  and  ii\jured  many  a  peerless 
relic,  the  number  of  edifices  extant  is  very  considerable,  and  the  state  of 
preservation  remarkable.  The  circle  is  extensive,  comprising,  as  it  does, 
so  many  periods  and  styles,  from  the  vast  proportions  of  the  Roman 
ruins  of  MArida  and  liurviedro  ;  the  mysterious  and  gloomy  Bomano- 
Byamtine  churches  of  Asturias ;  the  pomp  of  decoration,  and  lacelike 
onuunentation,  never  surpassed  in  Bs^^ad  or  Damascus,  of  the  mosques 
and  palaces  of  the  Khalifs  of  Cordova,  Seville,  and  Qranada  ;  the  bold- 
ness and  svelteisa  of  the  Tndesque  (Qothio)  o^edrals  of  Toledo,  Leon, 
Seville,  and  Burgos ;  the  mi^iMtio  (hnoo-Boman  of  the  Esoorial,  to  end 
with  the  artistic  anarchy  ana  absurd  caprices  of  the  churrigueresque  in 
modem  times.  The  dommtio  arekUtetrnt  has  some  very  fine  examples, 
mostly  belonging  to  the  16th  and  17th  centuries.  Their  style  is  lioro- 
Italian  in  the  South,  and  Qotho-plateresque  in  Aragon,  Catalofiia,  etc. 
Seville,  Zaragoa,  Barcelona,  Segovia,  contain  several  excellent  specimens. 

The  oirttfflafsrf  <w€hiUetMr$  o/L  Spain  has  not  been  as  yet  properiy  in- 
vestigated. There '  are,  neverthelesi^  very  interesting  remains  of  walls, 
fortifications,  cubo-towers,  military  roads,  barracks,  magasines,  etc,  of 
the  Roman,  Arab,  Qothio,  and  Ossfilian  periods  at  Almeria,  Murviedro, 
Tarragona,  the  Leonese  and  Astnrian  cities,  Seville,  Qranada,  Segovia, 
etc  etc  They  abound  in  Castile,  as  that  very  name  evinces  sufficiently  ; 
and  <  chAteanx  en  Bspagne,'  likened  to  '  castles  in  the  air/  was  a  saying 
which  origmated  with  the  difficulties  attending  their  capture. 

We  subjoin  a  short  classification  of  Spamsh  architecture,  including  a 
list  of  the  principal  examples  of  each  period  and  style,  finishing  with  a 
list  of  the  most  celebrated  architects,  the  date  in  which  they  flourished 
and  their  most  important  works. 


Ixii  .  OKNSRAL  INFORIUTION. 

« 

« 
1*  Amium  Penod% 

This  fiiTonrite  Boman  province  was  filled  with  splendid  monnmentiy 
mostly  datincf  firam  the  reign  of  Octavianiis  to  Sept  Severns.  Thej 
have  been  ill  treated  by  Qoth  and  Arab.  Spanish  neglect  and  distaste 
for  ye$terday  haye  done  the  rest  Ezcayations  are  rare,  and  nndertaken 
without  plan  or  fimda.  The  medals  and  coins  of  that  period  are  of 
great  valne,  to  complete  what  remains  and  reproduce  what  is  no  more. 

BxamplM. — Bridffn  of  AldLntara  (the  finest),  of  M^rida,  Badajos, 
Martorell,  Tndelay  Alconetar  (near  Coria)  ;  the  Aqueducts  of  Segovia, 
M^rida,  Tanragona,  Oarmona,  Fuente  Ovejuna ;  the  Jiilitofy  Roads  of 
M^da  to  Cadiz,  the  Via  Lata  between  M^rida  and  Salamanca,  Aldea 
Nneva  de  Bafios,  Yinneso  ;  the  WaUs^  Towers,  etc,  of  Coria,  Lugo,  Tar- 
ragona, Seville  ;  TriumphiBU  Arches  of  M^rida,  Bara,  Cabanes,  Martorell, 
Torredembarra ;  the  Hippodromes  of  MMda,  Mnrviedro,  Cartagena, 
Italica,  Acinipo,  Toledo.  Besides  the  excavations  in  Salave  Mines  and 
Pyramidal  Towers  of  Angnstos,  near  £1  Fadron,  both  in  Astorias,  Torres 
de  Este  (Prov.  Cora2a),  the  principal  cities  which  antiquaries  can  make 
headquarters  are — ^M^rida,  Murviedro,  Italica,  Talaveia  la  Yieja. 

2.  Latin-Gothic  8tgU,  Aih  to  8<A  Century, 

The  Boman  style,  as  altered  by  the  Qoths,  and  with  the  Byzantine 
modifications  it  already  possessed  when  they  adopted  it  From  conver- 
sion of  Constantine,  323  to  714,  or  Livasion  of  Arabs.  The  type  of  the 
Bomano-Byzantine  and  Asturian. . 

Examples, — ^But  few,  principally  at  Toledo.  Sr.  de  Aans*  excellent 
work  on  Toledo  ('  Album  Ardstico  de  Toledo*)  may  be  consulted  and 
relied  upon.    The  Arabic  translations  are  by  S.  Qayangoa. 

3.  Astwrian,  ^tktoWth  CetUury  (Gothic). 

So  called  by  Jovellanos  and  other  learned  critics,  practised  also  in 
Leon  and  QaUida,  called  ohras  de  los  Oodos,  and  truly  Gothic  It  is 
characterised  by  circular  arches,  ingresses,  and  windows  ;  an  imitation  of 
the  CeUo,  with  a  single  nave,  oftoi  the  basilica  fonn,  with  three  low, 
nanow  naves ;  choir  raised  opposite  altar  ;  oiypts  low,  sombre,  heavy; 
rude  sculpture  ;  pointed  roof ;  sober  decoration. 

BxampleSi  Santa  Maria  de  Naranco  and  San  Miguel  de  Lino(Oviedo) 
of  9th  century ;  San  Salvador  de  Yaldedios,  Pefialva,  of  the  10th 
century  ;  Abamia,  Sta.  Maria  de  Lenes,  Church  of  Barcena,  Barines,  etc, 
all  in  the  province  of  Ovieda 


s,  or  Bysantine  {Ramatusjue),  divided  inio  2 
1st,  nth  to  I2th  Century.    Dawn;  id,  l2thto  13fA— /(f  Acme. 

In  the  2d  period'the  contact  with  the  Arabs  orientalised 


ABCUITJBUrUIUL  bdii 

Hie  pointed  arch  Appean,  end  the  traneition  to  Qothio  or  Ogiyal  ie 
erident  It  it  always  the  original  Latin  foims,  as  modified  in  AstaxiaS| 
but  of  superior  art 

Bxamflu  of  the  1st — San  Isidoio  of  Leon,  San  Daniel  of  Qerona, 
cathedrals  of  Jaea,  San  Oacofate  del  Yalles,  San  Millan,  and  La  Trinidad 
at  Segoria.  Of  the  fidw — San  Jnan  de  Amandi  (Astnrias) ;  churohes  of 
Santiago,  de  Zamoray  Yemela  (Aragon) ;  those  that  mark  the  transition 
to  Qothio  are — Oathedrala  of  TBrragona,  Salamanca,  Zamora,  Colegiata  of 
Toio,San  Yioente  at  A^ila.  The  Norman  is  evident  in  several  chnrches 
of  this  period  in  N.W.  and  K  of  Spain.  This  st^le,  modified  by  the 
diiEerent  races  that  introduced  it  from  Byzantium  and  Italy,  is  called 
Sazon  in  England,  Romanesque  and  Romane  in  France,  Lombard  in 
Italy,  Teutonic  in  Germany,  Norman,  eta  We  have  called  it  Byxantine 
throoghont  this  work,  as  this  is  the  usual  appellation  in  Spain  and  will 
facilitate  research. 

6.  Qctkie^  13t4  to  16t4  Ctntiury. 

It  is  called  sometimes  in  Spain  Tedaeo^  as  thought  to  be  of  Germanic 
origin ;  was  generalised  mainly  by  St  Ferdinand  and  his  queen,  aided 
powerfolly  by  French  allied  sovereigns,  foreign  bishops,  and  artists.  It 
was  not,  nevertheless,  a  mere  adoption  of  new  and  foreign  forms,  but  a 
gradual  combination  with  the  Byamtine  of  the  end  of  the  12th  century. 
There  is,  however,  little  doubt  that  portions  of  the  finest  Gothic  cathe- 
drals in  Spain  are  admirable  *copies  of  French  churohes  Is  divided  into 
three  per^ds.  1st  (13th  century)  Transition,  Dawn.  2d.  The  French 
Bayonnant  (14th  century),  in  all  its  purity,  mijesty,  and  originality. 
3d.  Tlie  Flamboyant,  florid,  orientalised  (15Ui,  and  beginning  of  16th 
century).  Was  rapidly  adopted  and  successfully  cultivated,  the  examples 
being  among  the  most  glorious  in  the  world. 

JSsaatjvlsiof  the  1st  (13th  century). — ^Earlier  portions  of  cathedrals  of 
Leon,  Bu^oa  ;  the  cathedral  of  Cuenca,  of  Segorve,  of  Oorio,  of  Badajos, 
Santo  Maria  de  la  Antigua  (at  YalladoUd).  Of  the  2d  (14th  century).— 
Oathedrals  of  Leon  Burgos,  Toledo,  Murda,  Barcelona,  Gerona,  Tortosa, 
Sen  of  Zaragoa,  Ovieda  Of  the  3d  (15th  to  beginning  of  16th  century). — 
Oathedrals  of  Huesca,  Oartcga  of  Miraflores  (Burgos),  of  Jeres  de  la 
Frontera  ;  BelMes  of  Uie  Oathedrals  of  Burgos,  Leon,  Oviedo,  Oapilk  del 
Oondestable  in  the  Oathedral  of  Burgos,  et& 

• 
6.  Rmval  or  Platen$juef  I6th  CeiUiuy, 

The  Italian  Oinquecento  (so  called  from  the  16th  century,  when  it 
sprung)  ;  the  French  Benaisaance,  introduced  into  Spain  under  the 
Oatholic  Slings.  The  constant  communications  and  wars  with  Italy  ;  the 
revival  of  learning,  etc,  aided  very  powerfully  to  its  general  adoption 
It  was  called  €8iilo  jlaUrmoo^  from  its  surfMO-omamentation  and  arsr 


bdv  GENERAL  INFORMATION. 

beaques,  which  were  as  carefnllj  wiotight  aa  *  chitelled  piece  of  plate. 
It  might  almost  be  divided  into  Qotho-platereaqne  (beginning  of  16ih 
centoiy)  and  Italian-platereaqne  (end  of  IGth,  beginning  of  17tib). 

EgampUi. — Hoepital  de  Santa  Cruz  (Toledo),  Oolegio  Mayor  de  Santa 
Cruz  (Villadolid),  transept  of  the  cathedral  of  Cordora,  ditto  of  the 
cathedral  of  Bnigos,  San  liaxeos  at  Leon,  town-hall  at  Seville,  Sacristia 
liajor  of  the  cathedral  of  Seville.  Private  booses  and  patios  at  Seville, 
Zaragoza,  Baicelonay  etc 

7.  €fr<900'Raman,  I6tkand  17(4  OeiUuriei. 

Hue  psendo-claasical  style,  never  entirely  nn-Qothidsed  in  Spain, 
dennded  of  all  ornamentation,  pedantic,  pagan,  and  cold,  was  generally 
adopted  in  the  reigns  of  Charles  Y.  and  P£dlip  IL  The  imitation  was 
clumsy  in  general,  out  of  keeping  with  the  times  and  wants.  There  are, 
however,  some  exceptions  which  reveal  genius,  and  are  characterised  by 
vast  proportions  and  mijesty. 

Exampla, — Palace  of  CSiarles  Y.  at  Qranada ;  Escorial ;  palaces  of 
Madrid,  Aranjuez,  La  Qraiga ;  S.  ia^e  of  Alcazar  of  Toledo  ;  cathedrals 
of  Qranada,  Yalladolid.  It  is  sometimes  called  stiHo  de  BismrOf  from 
this  great  architect's  exclusive  use  of  it 

The  decline  of  art  in  Spain  followed  that  of  the  monarchy.  Borro- 
mini*s  school  was  followed,  and  the  principles  exaggerated.  *  Bococo 
became  the  *  bean  id^,'  and  the  so-called  dassio  edifices  were  over- 
loaded with  gQding,  plartered  on  wood,  marble,  and  bronze,  tortured  into 
most  ridiculous  shapes.  It  was  the  faitiif nl  transcript  of  the  age.  Badne 
and  Comeille's  periwig — ^Bomans  dressed  with  ru£9es  and  jabot  It  may 
be  defined  the  GKmgorism  of  architecture,  just  as  Qongora's  poetry  can  be 
called  literary  churrigueresque— a  name  generally  applied  to  designate 
this  bad  taste,  as  being  that  of  Joe^  Churriguera,  an  otherwise  able 
architect,  who  used  and  generaliwd  it  Y.  Bodrigues,  with  others,  endea- 
voured in  vain  to  regenerate  the  style,  and  bidlt  several  edifices  that 
evince  his  good  intentions.  The  examples  are  scattered  all  over  ^pain. 
Cathedral  of  £1  Pilar  at  Zaragoza  ;  palace  of  San  Telmo  at  Seville  ;  and 
most  of  the  churches  of  Madrid. 

Moorish  ArckiUetute. 

The  fundamental  elements  belong  to  the  Bomano-Byzantine  and 
Persian  schools.  Many,  if  not  all,  the  prindpal  characteristics  are  dearly 
defined  in  Scripture  as  already  used  in  Palestine.  The  examples  that  are 
scattered  in  the  breadth  end  length  of  the  land,  but  more  especially  in 
the  south,  are  of  the  highest  order,  and  were  never  surpassed  in  the  East, 
Sicily,  or  Africa 

The  style  first  introduced  partook  somewhat  of  the  Berber  chaiactor. 


ABCHITBOTURS. 


kv 


was  ampla,  tobeily  decorated,  tlie  besilica  gronnd-pkn  of  the  Bjzantiiie 
being  adopted  for  moequea— great  muliiplieitj  of  aidiea,  baaeleie  oolimmay 
being  aome  of  iti  features  ;  tliei^  gradoallj  adYsneiiig  in  splendoor,  it 
aoqtdied  more  elegance  and  lightness  at  the  cost  of  ori^^ality.  Oonstant 
interoonneirith  Asi%  and  antagonistic  hatred  to  the  OhristiaH|  prerented 
mixtures  with  Gothic^  with  which  its  love  of  detail|  minute  omamenta- 
ikmf  etCi  had  more  than  one  similarity  ;  and  many  of  its  aocessonea— 
stalafitite  ceQings,  hoiseshoe  arches,  mosaic  dados,  eta — ^were  readilj 
adopted  by  the  Tietorions  Ohiistians,  and  the  combinations  of  their  own 
with  it  were  called  Mnzarabic. 

Mooriah  architecture  may  be  divided  into  three  periods  and  styles. 
Isty  ^jantine-Arabic  ;  Sd,  Manritane-Almohade  ;  3d,  Mndejar  or 
Qranadine. 

JBnmyitU$4 — Of  the  1st  period  (8th  to  10th  century),  mosque  of 
OordoTa,  remains  of  Medina  Axahra,  near  Oor^ora,  walls  ol  Ubeda,  etc. 
Of  the  Sd  (11th  to  13th  century),  Qiralda  of  ScTille,  chapel  of  Yilla- 
▼iciosa  in  tlM  cathedral  of  Oordora,  great  hall  in  the  Alcaar  of  Serille, 
remains  of  a  great  mosque  in  the  cathedral  of  Serille,  Sta.  Maria  la  Blanca 
at'Meda  Of  the  3d  (13th  to  16th  century),  Alcaar  of  Serille,  Alham- 
bra,  Generalife,  Cnarto  Beal  (Granada),  Transito  at  Tdedo,  Oasa  de 
Pilatoe  at  Serine,  eta 


riede ;  S«i  Tlno. 

KMmm.    9lii  cMtay.    Sm  P«dro  d«  lot 


Ctmhrit Gmiimrd0,    11x7.    Ckit/tan^tSan 
Mmim(Mmmtto).    is6a    PMtiomorOiUlL, 


XMoteniMkol    Qttk.dadMlRodrico. 
Crititiml    (P^dra).      Gwdtmo    (pratebly 


Gome. 

p0m  JMnX.    in6w  lariy  pettloM  of 
CbikofTofada 

Smi9mi(?^nf^    1900.  GMdeoTBdhrtf. 

^M^irv  (PsdfOjL  S34^  Wbtks  in  Msf wft* 

Arimt  (Lop^     ijjs.  Akaar  of  CSndad 

^  iSw  (RDdrigoX    1990.  Gftili.,  ToMo. 
Jl5r«fa«(AlfeMoX  ilSr  Catk,  StriDe. 


xjoM.  Cfttk.  Barcdooa. 
1^  CMk,  VakocM. 


XT.  CMITUEy. 


A  m  If  mil  dt  Mgmt  (BdaiMi>    1454.    QuIl, 


A  UR  OV  TBI  M08T  OBLIBBASBD  8PAMI8H  ABCUilllUnk 

^Jfm^fm  df  Egm»  (Us  mm),    1494-    Otk, 
Toledo. 

(HwvAi  (Padro).    MSI.  Calk.  Seville. 

NMtmmmQnanY.  146a.  Dtoo. 

/Vdhrirfr  TWoA.  1470.  Dkia 

SaaSahadordeBaftoi.                  SimmQiMmn).  x^  Ditto. 
(Padro).    mC^    Saa 


TiMM  Cptmim,     144s.    Gatk,  Buiioa. 
GMdW(Ptodfo).    149^    WoikaaftAkali 


snn.  cnrroKT. 


HmfmMm  Qmm  GiQi    isss.    QuIl,  Sak- 

J?«lMi(G«illdiideX  Ob.i43x*  Gatk.Leoa. 
GmU  (Baitoloa4)L    Obi  S41&    Cath.,  Bar^ 

C#ws^(FBdro).  0^x486.  OMk»ValeMk. 


RXTITAL  AlfD  PLATnsaQVB. 

1500^     Sculpture 


At 
eipeciaHy. 

MmrtmthGmmm,  XSSS*  Gai. Seal (Cath.* 
SeviOeX 

Dkg»  RimtU.    xs$x    Sc.  Majoii    (Catk, 
Serfllt). 

Ctwmt  mUmt (AMbaeoX    ^St^•V•    Woika  al 
Tolada 
^Etnmd*  (Jtmf  Jna^X    t4tf.    Woika  at 

^Km  (Fodio  d«X    ssn*    Woika  aft  Sala- 

HiOM  (FenumX    15^    Woikt  aft  Govdova. 
Bmdrfm  (Juan  deX     tfia. 
Leon,  etc. 


Ixvi  OKNERAL  INTOBMATION. 

▲  Lm  OW  TEE  MOBT  OBLEBRATU)  SPANISH  ABOHITIOIB— COftfMMMdL 

•  • 

,«tc.  F^ps  (Lak  and  Gttpar  d«).  1568.  Alcaar 
of  SoviOcL  etc. 

JtftfnM  FnuBciaooX  IS9&  WoriuatSifovk, 
EkotuJ.  Madrid. 

Mom^rw  (J.  Ba.)    is>a    Stcorial*  AlcMar 

^iwAani  (FeSpeX    iT^S*    Royal  Palace,  Ma- 
dnd. 
RadrifmM  (Ventma).    i7sa    Dhrert  worica. 
^4sAi/M/(Fnu>dsco)i  176a  Woriu  at  Madrid. 

.OlVUUQUSaSSQUB. 

Cl«rr(f(Mni,  Joid.    17*5. 


Gkjko-Romam. 

Mmekttem(9tdxo),  i$a6i.  PaboaofCharies 
▼.  of  Gnuiada. 

Silrn  (Diago).  isaa  Cath.,  Gianada  and 
Malan.     ^  "     '^ 

VaUHtmdaQnti.)    is6a    DiTcnworica. 
7MSn»  (Joan  deX    15^    EaooriaL 
H^rrtrm  (iuaa  de]t    156^    EaooriaL 
FtfrX"'*  iJ^^  I^^HE?»  Nicolas,  and  Martin 
deX    156S.    Woriu  at^eriOo  and  Toledo. 

The  following  Spaniah  tenuB,  applied  to  different  portions,  etc.,  of 
GhnrcheSy  will  be  found  useful : — 

CoUgiata  often  stands  for  cathedral,  as  well  as  Igletia  Ma^.  They 
are  generaUy  dedicated  to  the  Virgin  Mary.  A  collegiate  church  is 
composed  of  dignitaries  and  canons,  who  celebrate  divine  senrice  as  in 
cathedrals. 

Ibehadoi,  fsQades  ;  lof^a^  a  long  platform  which  often  surrounds  the 
churches  extoiorly,  and  whidh  is  ascended  by  steps  or  grees,  e$eaUnata  or 
grodcM,  The  font  is  pila  hanUiimal ;  pila  de  agua  hendita  is  the  stoup 
or  font  containing  holy  water. 

Coro  (choir)  ;  traaoom^  the  back  to  it,  often  profusely  decorated  ;  the 
re$paldM  del  coro  are  the  lateral  sides  of  it  The  staUs  are  $iUa»,  forming 
silleria  alta  or  biga,  as  the  case  may  be.  The  choristers^  desks  are  called 
atrilea,  the  lectern  faciitoL  Transept  (crueero), — Over  it  often  rises  a  dome 
or  lantern  called  cimborio,  and  firom  its  shape,  media  naranja.  The  pur- 
dose  or  railings,  r^of ,  are  most  remarkably  executed,  and  desenre  close 
inspection.  Tlie  apse,  abeide^  contains  a  eapiUa  mayor,  with  the  high  altar, 
aliar  mayor;  the  reredoe^  or  screen  rising  from  it,  is  called  rttablo.  The 
latter  are  generally  very  magnificently  gilt  and  sculptured.  The  right 
side  of  the  altar — that  is,  the  right  of  the  celebrant  looking  y^'oin  the  altar 
— is  called  lado  dd  evangeUo;  the  left  is  lado  de  la  epietoUu  Most  cathe- 
drals haye  a  parish  church,  parroquia  (eura  parroco  is  a  parish  priest), 
attached  to  them,  and  a  eapiUa  real,  for  tiie  entombment  of  princes.  The 
chapter  is  el  eabUdo,  The  eagrario  is  a  special  chapel,  where  the  Holy  of 
Holies  is  often  placed,  de  maniJUeto,  or  displayed.  The  vestry  is  la  eaerittia, 
the  sexton  el  eaerietan.  The  relics,  vestments,  plate,  etc,  are  kept  in  what 
is  called  el  rdiearic  MonaguiUoe  are  the  vestry  boy&  Jdiea  Mayor ^  High 
Mass.    The  bel^  is  la  tcrre,  el  campatumo. 

The  principal  objects  to  see  in  a  Spanish  church  are  :  the  high  altar, 
stalls  in  the  choir,  lateral  chapels,  the  relics  and  vestments  in  the  sacriatia. 
Ask  for  the  sacristan,  and  explain  the  object  of  your  visit  In  case  of 
unwillingness,  address  yourself  to  any  priest  attached  to  the  church.  The 
fee  may  vary  from  a  peseta  to  five  francs.     In  a  cathedral,  the  Sacristan 


ABOUiTJfiCTi'UKBL  Izvil 

Mayor  nmst  be  applied  to.  The  hotin  to  Tint  aie  |rom  8  ajc  to  12,  and 
from  4  to  5|  P.M.  The  finest  lejaB  aie  by  T.  Ba.Oelma,  1600  ;  Yillal* 
pando  (Fco.),  1561  ;  Cristobal  Andino,  1640.  The  finest  church  plate, 
cuModiat  (where  the  Host  is  kept  on  festiyals),  calioes,  or  sacramental  cnps, 
et&y  are  1^  the  Azfes  of  YaUadolid,  1600  ;  Becenil,  1534  ;  Juan  Bnia, 
1533,  etc.  The  painted  glass  is  among  the  most  splendid  in  Europe, 
thooi^  not  often  met  with,  as  it  was  not  a  Spanish  art,  but  imported  from 
Fruiee,  Belgium,  and  Gennany.  It  was  practised  by  Spaniards  in'the 
middle  of  the  16th  centuiy.  The  earliest  and  finest  examples  date 
from  1418  to  1560,  and  are  to  be  sought  in  the  cathedrals  of  Toledo, 
Leon,  Seville,  Buigos,  Barcelona,  etc.  The  composition  is  usually  simple, 
vigorously  oonoeiyed,  broadly  executed  ;  the  forms  following  those  of  the 
sculpture,  that  served  as  models ;  the  colouring  very  rich  and  deep.  The 
ornamentation  at  its  earliest  period  was  treated  conventionally,  in  later 
periods  nature  was  more  directly  imitated ;  shades  and  shadows  were 
introduced,  and  Moorish  details  mixed  with  the  Qothic. 
The  principal  vidriem,  or  painters  on  glass,  were : — 


H^immJm  (Ajb«fto  <U).    1590.    Cath.  AWlft. 
l/wimndm  (Nicoks  d«),  hk  ton.   tS3&.   Ditto. 


Cmd$wm  {pmtio  deju    1510-13.    The  best 


work  faiCktii.,  Toledo. 


Verpurm  (Nfeobt  de).    so*,  and  hb  eons, 
Nicolae  and  JoBB,  iS74-90b    Oitti.,  Toledo. 


Mie^CruUUUAUmim.  1504.  Cath.»So- 
Tille.    The  finest  in  Spain. 

Mmtttro  (Enrique).    147a    Ditto. 

GtlatuUm  (Bernardo  deji  151a  H.  Chapel, 
SeiriUe. 

A  mms  de  Flamdet.    1593.    Cath..  SeriOe. 

Vktnie  Minmndro,  1560^  Cath.,  Serille. 
Oneof  thebestpeinten.    . 

Dug9de  ymUtpiete,  is6a.  Cath.,  Dieaca, 
etc.  etc 


List  of  BcoJu  of  Reference  on  Spanish  ArchiUetmre, 

1.  '  Ensayo^  Hist6rico  sobre  los  divenos  Generos  de  Arqnitectura,  etc.,  en 
EspaBa,*  by  Josii  Caveda;  Madrid,  Saunague,  1848,  i  vol.  Carefully  written, 
more  literary  than  criticaL 

2.  'Snmario  de  las  Antigtiedades  Romanas  en  EspaSa,*  by  J.  A.  Cean 
Bennudez,  I  toL  fol. ;  Madrid,  1832.  Very  useful  and  reliable;  the  indexes 
well  drawn  up.  Thb,  with  *Poqz's  Morales*  and  Carballo's  works,  and 
Fkna^s  woric  on  coins  and  medals,  forms  an  indispensable  collection  to  antiquaries. 
The  works  of  Yepes,  Argaiz,  Sandoval,  and  Bergmnza  may  be  also  consulted. 

3.  'Notida  de  los  Arquitectos  y  Arquitectura,'  by  J.  A.  C.  Bermudez ;  4  toIs. 
4to ;  Madrid,  1829.  It  is  an  improved  edition  of  that  written  by  Llaguno  y 
Amirola,  usefol  and  reliable,  but  devoid  of  critical  investigation,  and  written 
with  that  ignorance  and  indifference  of  the  eariy  styles  whidi  were  current  in 
his  time. 

4.  <  EqiaBa  Artisdca  y  Monumental,'  3  fol.  vols.  ;  published  at  Paris ; 
1846^  by  VilbmiL  The  drawings  are  the  only  important  portion,  and  by 
Cardereia,  wfaoae  knowledge  of  Spanish  art  is  well  known.  The  work  com- 
prises only  the  Castiles. 

5.  'Some  Account  of  Gothic  Architecture  in  Spain*  by  G.  £.  Street, 
London,  J.  Murray,  1865  ;  most  competently  written  by  this  the  able  author 
of  Bnck  and  MarNe  ArckiUehtre  in  Italy^  and  profusely  illustrated.  The 
anthor  has  omitted  the  Arch,  of  S.  and  S.W.  of  Spain.  His  judgment  is 
flonewhat  biassed  by  too  ezdnsive  a  preference  for  that  one  style. 


Izviii  OXNKRAL IMIOBMATION. 

6.  'Momnnentot  Arquitect^cos  de  EspoSa,'  etc.,  published  by  the  Spanish 
Goreniment  orders,  Mmdiid  1859^8.  This  great  work,  most  Taloable  and 
qdendidlj  got  up,  is  in  oonne  of  publication.  Want  of  method,  and,,  it  is  to  be 
expected,  eventual  want  of  funds,  will  make' this,  an  otherwise  most  valuable 
woric,  oomparativelj  a  fiulure. 

<  Recuerdos  y  Bellezas  de  Espafia,'  in  several  vols.,  by  Madiazo,  Quadiado, 
etc.  The  drawings  by  Parcerisa.  The  text  is  generally  indifferent  A  volume 
for  each  province.  'Toledo  Pinteresco'  and  'Album  Artistico  de  Toledo* 
(see  Toledo)  are  valuable  works  on  the  Goikk  (i,c  Romano-Byiantine)  and 
Moorish  remains  in  that  dty.  The  Moorish  architecture  can  be  ftUly  studied  in 
Owen  Jones^  *  Plans  etc.,  of  the  Alhambra,'  London,  1842.  It  is  considered 
one  of  the  most  important  and  accurate  works  that  has  ever  been  written  on 
Moorish  art  'The  Alhambra  Court  in  the  Crystal  Palace,'  one  voL  (6</.) 
1854,  is  the  substance  of  that  able  architect's  larger  work.  *  AnHgHidada 
Artia^  by  Lozano,  4  vols.  1785,  2  editions;  it  has  been  copied  by  Murphy 
In  his  '  Arabian  Antiquities,'  Ixmdon,  18 16.  *  Erinnerungen  von  Wilhelm  von 
Gall,'  Munich ;  magnificently  got  up.  JoveDano's  Elogio  of  V.  Rodriguez, 
Bosarte's  '  Viages '  (Segovia,  Valladolid,  Buigos,  etc.)  may  be  also  consulted. 
'  Excelendas,  Antigttedad  y  Nobleza  de  la  Arquitectura,'  etc.,  by  Angrade, 
ardiitect  of  the  cathedral  of  Santiago ;  Santiago,  Frays,  1 795.  Diego  Sa^ed^'s 
woric  on  'Las  Medidas  dd  Romano/  1526,  is  the  first  work  in  Spaki  that 
mentioned  GrKco-Roman  architecture.  Didron's  valuable  '  loooographie '  will 
be  of  use  to  amateurs  in  explaining  several  passages  that  appear  dimly  In  the 
stone  pages  of  the  eariy  Romano-Byzantine  and  eariy  Gothic,  dead  languages 
now  with  us.  That  rude  symbolism,  bordering  on  pantheism,  was  an  awkward 
translation  of  the  refined  degant  Latin  and  Greek  mind  into  the  monkish  patois 
of  the  early  ages  of  the  Chur^  Mr.  Fergusson's  'IlL  Handbook  of  Ardiitecture' 
will  prove  usefiiL  There  are,  besides,  several  minor  works  and  papers ;  Mr. 
Waring's  '  Architectural  Studies  in  Buigos,'  etc 

Paintings. 

PAiBTnro  has  not  followed  in  Spain  the  giadnal  growth  that,  is  notice- 
able elsewhere ;  its  period  was  indeed  most  glorious,  bot  resembled 
that  of  a  meteor,  and  after  a  short  reign  of  splendour,  passed  away, 
leaving  no  traces  behind.  Spanish  art  was  never  cnltivated  for  its  own 
sake,  but  as  merely  instramentid  in  illustrating  the  most  striking  subjects 
of  rdigion.  Hie  early  period  of  Spanish  painting,  if  any  distinct  one  can 
be  traced,  followed  the  character  and  fate  of  seolptore.  As  long  as  the 
church  was  truly  milUami^  all  those  features  that  characterised  the 
hostile  riyal  religion  of  the  Pagans  were  carefully  proscribed.  Moses, 
Mahomet,  Luther,  were  all  opposed  to  images  of  the  Deity,  and  the  early 
Cbuneil  of  Ulib^  (near  Granada),  in  its  36th  Csnon,  says — ^  Placuit 
picturas  in  ecdesia  esse  non  debca«,  ne  quod  colitur  et  adoratur  in 
paiietibus  depingatur;'  When,  however,  the  church  became  triumjphaml^ 
sculpture  and  paintiDg  were  largely  resorted  to.  Images  of  saints,  and 
that  of  the  Virgin  more  especially,  were  rapidly  multiplied,  and  have  to 
this  day  superseded  that  of  God.  Painting  in  its  earlier  period  was 
strictly  sculptural  and  oonventionaL    It  was  used  to  decorate  crypts,  the 


PAiMnNCL  bdz 

i^My  with  fabjeeti  from  the  Old  Testamenti  and  tiie  ordinary  onea  of 
aaintiy  the  Oraation  of  the  World,  Fteadiae,  the  Last  Jndgmenti  and 
PnigatoTf.  The  miniature  paintmg  in  the  miMaliy  in  the  illaminated 
liSS.,  and  on  the  stained  glass,  mnst  have  inflaenoed  its  style  and  developed 
its  xesooreea.  We  think  that  early  BjiantiDe  painters  were  the  first 
modeb  that  were  copied  from,  and  that  Flemish  and  German  p^mting 
was  not  without  inflaenoe  daring  the  14Ui  and  ISth  centuries,  and  that 
from  that  period  henceforth  the  elements  were  either  completely  national 
or  borrowed  from  Italy.  The  principal  period  of  Spanish  painting  is 
between  the  16th  and  17ih  centories.  The  power  and  wealth  of  the 
enlightened  churchmen  that  were  its  most  munificent  patrons,  the  proe- 
perity  of  the  monarchy  at  that  time,  the  constant  intercourse  with  Italy, 
the  influence  of  the  renainance,  and,  not  a  little,  the  high  favour  that 
foreign  artists  eigoyed  at  the  Oourts  of  Charles  Y.  and  the  Hulips  con- 
tributed most  powerfully  in  creating  emulation  and  raising  the  national 
schools  to  great  enunence  and  repute.  Artists  were  treated  on  the  same 
footing  as  tiie  haughty  warrion,  tiie  aristocrat  of  blood.  Art  followed, 
as  usual,  the  fate  of  the  Empire,  and  declined  when  the  sun  of  the  House 
of  Austria  went  down.  Under  the  Bourbons,  the  French  school  was 
servilely  copied,  and  has  continued  to  be  so  to  this  day.  Want  of 
rmnlation  and  of  public  patronage  have  prevented  otherwise  clever 
painters  of  the  day  from  sttaining  to  any  marked  enunence.  The  Boyal 
Academy  of  Ban  Fernando  has  produced  no  genius.  There  are  yearly 
exhibitions,  juries,  prixes,  and  speeches,  but  few  purchaseis  to  encourage 
and  reward  the  merit  often  di^layed.  There  are,  nevertheless,  sevenl 
distinguished  painters,  such  as  Madraxo,  Gilbert,  Haes,  Ilerros,  and  three 
who  bear  the  weighty  names  of  Murillo,  Bibera,  and  Osna 

On  the  13th  of  June  1844,  a  royal  decree  establidied  a  central  com- 
minion,  ^  de  Monumentos  Historicos  y  Artisticos  del  Beina'  The  section 
for  painting  applied  its  labours  to  cc^ecting  the  best  pictures  that  had 
been  overiooked  by  foreign  dealers  and  amateurs  at  ^e  suppression  of 
convents  and  the  time  of  civil  war.  About  4600  pictures,  mostly 
rubbish,  were  collected,  and  formed  the  nucleus  of  the  different  Museos 
Provinciales  that  were  established  at  several  of  the  most  important  cities, 
the  principal  of  which  are  those  of  Madrid,  Seville,  Valencia,  and 
VaBadolid.  Besides  these,  the  Boyal  Museo  at  Madrid,  the  Boyal  Palace 
there,  and  the  pictures,  scattered  in  the  noblemen's  mansions  in  the 
metropolis,  there  are  few  important  collections.  Many  of  the  finest 
^ipnidi  pictures  decorate  the  galleries  of  English  noblemen,  and  others 
are  to  be  seen  in  the  Louvre. 

Spanish  painting  diffais  widely  in  style  from  any  other.  Its  charae- 
tcristie  ii,  we  should  say,  naturalism,  reidinn,  in  one  sense  of  the  word. 
It  is  characteriMd  by  monotony  of  subject,  of  handling,  and  of  colouring, 
i^anish  painters  studied  hum,  not  nature,  and  of  man  only  two  types  or 
nrieties  of  the  hero— vis.  the  martyr  and  the  warrior :  but  the  fonner 


Izx  flgWERATi  DflOBMATIOH. 


almoii  ezdniiTelj.  Home  and  nml  acenes  we  toftaDj  wantiiig.  Hi 
prodndioiie  beer  the  itamp  of  the  aolemn  and  aaeetk  ipint  and  becrj 
gloom  that  peiraded  the  doister.  The  itody  of  the  twetmrnt  of 
Ifadomiaa  hj  Baphael,  compared  with  that  of  the  same  aabject  hj 
Mnrillo,  will  teach  more  than  Tolnmea ;  for  while  the  latter  in  hia 
imagea  of  Yirgina  *  raiaed  a  wuftal  to  the  akieay'  the  former  ahraja  *  drew 
an  angel  down  ;'  and  moat  of  the  Spanish  pictorea  of  aainti  were  portraita. 
This  monotony  of  aobjectSy  ariaing  from  want  of  imagination^  as  well  as 
from  the  inTariable  nature  of  the  demand,  ia  clearly  eridenoed  in  the  list 
of  the  pictorea  of  any  Spanish  master.  Zurbaran's  Carthosians,  Boelas* 
JeaoitSy  Mnrillo's  Ooneepdones  and  Infant  Deities,  Bibera's  ICartyrdoms, 
Joane's  well-known  Heads  of  Christ,  and  most  others,  excepting  Yelazqnex, 
who  was  Italian  in  many  things.  Animal  life  they  knew  little  of, 
thoo^  the  few  bodegonea  that  exist  rereal  their  profideney  in  that  line. 
Sea  paintings  wexe  eqnaDy  orerlooked  by  painters  bom  in  a  peninsula 
whose  shores  are  ao  varied  in  aspect,  so  foil  of  character,  and  pictoresqoe. 
Landscape  was  treated  only  as  an  aoceasoiy,  and  seldom  resorted  to. 
Yelazqoes  painted  a  few,  bat  they  are  merely  view$  intended  as  frames  to 
groops.  Iriarte  (1620)  who,  MoriUo  said,  was  worthy  of  painting  sceneiy 
in  Paradise,  was  the  only  landscape  painter,  and  he  painted  natore 
onnatorally ;  and  in  modem  days,  Yillamil,  thoogh  effective  and  improved 
by  the  stody  of  Eoberts,  is  stiff,  pseodo-clamrical,  and  places  natore  always 
*  en  ac^ne.'  The  colooring  is  dso  monotonous,  being  that  suggested  by 
natore  around  ;  the  bloea  are,  of  coorse,  very  beautifol,  rich,  deep,  and 
luminous — those  of  the  sky  ;  the  tawny  red-bumt  soil  has  indicated  a 
similar  colour ;  the  greens,  that  only  exist  in  Asturias,  where  there  never 
was  much  art,  are,  consequentiy,  poor  and  defective.  In  general  they 
wiU,  on  dose  examination,  appear  greater  draughtsmen  than  colourists. 
A  quality  of  Spanish  painters,  never  surpassed  and  seldom  equalled  even 
by  the  best  Italian  masters,  lies  in  the  cast  of  the  draperies,  for  which 
the  long  and  many-folded  dresses  of  the  monks,  and  the  capa  universally 
wom,  were  such  good  models.  Mr.  Schepder  thinks,  however,  that  in 
thii  respect  they  never  attained  to  the  simplidty  and  dignity  exemplified 
by  the  Italians  in  their  draperies,  and  evinced  even  in  the  fantastic 
tobolar  folds  of  the  German  schooL  There  are  in  Spanish  pictorea  extra- 
ordinary life,  tmth  to  natore,  a  deep  feeling  of  piety,  and  a  simplicity 
and  power  that  apeak  to  the  heart  of  the  observer. 

The  compontion  ii  generaUy  excellent  and  simple,  evincing  cardeaa- 
nesa  in  the  handling  of  aeconduy  figores,  and  failing  in  the  few  inft^n^tt 
of  large  groops  and  complicated  action.  The  backgroond  ia  deficient, 
the  details  most  correct  and  minote.  Soch  are,  we  think,  the  prindpal 
characteristics  of  Spanish  painting.  As  commentators  of  Christian 
mythology,  as  portrait  painters,  the  Spanidi  masters  stand  onrivalled  ; 
and  soch  glorious  namea  as  Ydaiqoes,  Morillo,  Zorbaran,  and  Alfonso 
Gano,  are  sufficient  to  assign  to  the  schools  of  Spain  the  first  tank  after 


PAINTINO-HSOHOOL  OF  TALSNOIA.  bod 

those  of  Italy,  and  place  them  on  a  par  with  those  of  Qennany,  Flandenii 
and  Holland.  Spanish  painting  may  be  divided  into  three  great 
schools,  vis.,  Serille,  Madrid,  Yaljinciay  which  are  in  torn  sosoeptible  of 
snbdirisions,  sach  as  Aiagonese,  llatslonian,  Estremadnza,  etc  '  Their 
diiferences  of  style  are  not,  however,  clearly  defined. 

SehoU  of  Valencia, 

Jman  de  Juana  (or  Joane$)^  bom  at  Fnente  la  Higaera  (ptorine^  of 
Valencia)  in  1523  ;  died  at  Bocairente,  December  21,  1579.  His  real 
name  was  Macip ;  he  Latinised  his  Ohristian  name  according  to  the 
habit  of  the  age.  He  studied  at  Home,  and  was  a  pnpil  of  Qiolio  Bo- 
mano  and  Perin  del  Vaga.  iS^Vcte.— -Saviours  Heaids,  lives  of  the 
Saints.  S^le, — ^The  founder  of  the  school  He  was  the  first  to  intro- 
duce the  knowledge  of  Italian  art  into  Spain,  and  was  considered  by  some 
as  BaphacVs  most  suocessfol  imitator. '  Correct  drawing,  good  modellings 
power  of  expression  ;  his  perspective  falls  rather  short,  but  is  exact  to 
truth.  His  colouring  is  warm,  golden,  luminous  ;  his  draperies  elegantly 
folded ;  the  details,  even  the  hair  and  beard,  most  delicately  touched. 
His  Ghrists  and  saints  have  all  an  expression  of  mystic  inspiration,  love, 
and  tender  softness.  Principal  Ifbribi^— These  are  at  the  Public  Picture 
Galleries  of  Valencia ;  a  Holy  Family  at  the  Sacristy  of  Oathedral  of 
Valencia  ;  at  the  Picture  Gallery  of  Madrid  a  Last  Supper,  No.  225, 
and  portrait  of  Osstelvy,  No.  169.  IW, — He  had  a  son,  Juan  Vicente 
Joanes,  who  imitated  his  fsther^s  style. 

/Vonateo  BMUa^  bom  at  Castellon  de  la  Plana  (province  of  Valencia) 
1551 ;  died  Jan.  14,  1628,  at  Valencia.  He  studied  first  at  Valencia, 
then  at  Home,  under  the  CaraccL  SiyU, — ^Imitated  the  Bologneee 
masters,  and  his  style  is  after  SelMlstian  del  Piombo.  His  reds  are  those 
of  the  soil  of  the  rich  Huerta  of  Valencia ;  fine  attitudes,  good  composi- 
tion, deep  knowledge  of  anatomical  drawing.  Principal  Work$> — ^At  the 
FSctare  Ghdlery  at  Valencia,  at  Corpus  Christ!  College  at  Valencia,  and 
Four  Evangelists  at  the  Pi^ure  Galleiy  of  Madrid. 

Jman  lUbaUa  (his  son),  bom  1579  ;  died  162a  Pupil  of  his  father, 
and  painted  so  like  him  tliat  it  is  next  to  impossible  to  detect  the  differ- 
enee.  Pictures  by  him  maybe  seen  at  Valencia  and  Madrid  Picture  Gal- 
leiy (No.  163),  and  a  Crucifixion  at  S.  Miguel  de  los  Reyes,  at  Valencia. 

JM  BSbera  (Q  Spagnoletto),  bom  at  J^va,  January  12,  1588  ;  died 
at  NH>le>,  1656.  Pujdl  of  Bibalta.  Studied  principally  in  Italy  under 
Ouaviggio  and  the  naturalists.  Style, — Martyrdoms  and  Lives  of  the 
Saints.  Adopted  thiee  styled— 1.  when  he  studied  Caravaggio ;  2.  when 
he  imitatiid  Correggio  ;  3.  more  personal,  greater  expression  in  physical 
pain  and  moral  beatitude,  power  of  drawing,  profound  knowledge  of 
anatomy.  Great  force  of  colour  and  effect  Principal  Wcrke, — At 
Madrid  Picture  GaUeiy,  Na  42,  Martyrdom  of  St  Bartholomew  ;  116, 
JaodVs  Ladder  :  121,  Prometheus  ;  542,  a  Dead  Christ     At  Osuna,  a 


faodi  OENIRAL  nnOElCAIION 

CracMjJon ;  at  Balammf  ^  a  Ooncepcion  and  miftaX  oiheri.    ffia  fluMl^ 
a  PieUy  ia  in  Ban  ICartino  at  Naplaa. 

Jacinto  Ckromimo  EipinMa^  bom  at  Oooanftiina  QvorinM  of  Yaleneia 
1600;  died  1680  ;  aon  of  Bodiigae«,alao  a  painter,  and  popil  of  Bibalta 
(Ifignel  Eapinoaa,  bit  aon).  StffU, — SzoeUence  of  diawing,  well  choaen 
and  natonl  attitodea  of  hit  figorea,  power  of  ehiaio-oaeQia  He  imitated 
the  Oaraod  aehooL  PfMctjpaZPMfMTviL— At  the  Pietoie  Qalleiy  at  Va- 
lencia and  Madrid,  wliere  a  Magdalen  (Na  SSI),  and  Moeking  il  Ghiiit 
(No.  311),  TranaflgaTation,and  Death  of  St  LmsBeltran,aie  tobeaeen. 

Pedro  OrrenU,  bom  at  Montealegre  Qmmnce  of  Mnrda)  1560  ; 
died  at  Toledo  in  1644.  lAyle.— Imitated  Baasano  iOoeeidiillj ;  a 
good  oolonrift ;  painted  prindpidly  cattle  and  Adoiationa  of  Shepheida. 
Prinffgxd  Works.— At  Pictoie  Gallery,  Yaleneia  (five  pietnica),  and 
at  PietoTO  Gallery,  Madrid. 

Sdebtm  Mank^  died  1660.  He  was  pnpil  of  Onente.  KB.— A 
aon  of  hia,  Miguel,  alao  painted,  and  died  at  Valencia,  1670.  S^fU-^ 
Tmltatad  Omnte  and  Bawino  His  naoal  subjectB  battlea  and  soldier- 
life  ;  hia  execution  free  and  powerfiiL  Principal  Worit, — At  Valencia 
and  Madrid,  where  ii  his  Gbmp  (Na  149) 

PMo  PontcnifinB  a  pnpU  of  Qrrente  His  worka  only  aeen  at  Valencia. 

Zarilkena — Several  painters  of  this  name.  Of  inferior  merit,  and 
principally  seen  at  Valoicia. 

Sehca  if  Toledo. 

Ftman  GoncdUc  (1400). 

Juan  Al/on  (1418).  Painted  aereral  rrtabloa  at  the  CSi^thedral  of 
Toledo. 

Pedro  Benm^^ude.  Father  of  Alonio,  the  great  aeolptor,  and  painter, 
and  architect 

Antonio  del  Binconf  bom  at  Goadalijaia  1446.  ffia  worka  are  few. 
Portnita  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabdla,  at  Chapel  de  la  Antigua,  Cathedral 
of  Grsnada.  Some  of  the  richness  and  trsnsparen^  of  the  Venetian 
SchooL 

Fkmando  dd  Bineon. — Son  and  pupil  of  former.  No  work  known. 
He  worked  with  Juan  de  BorgoBa  at  the  great  rrtablo  of  the  Oithedral 
of  Toleda,  and  at  Alcali  de  Henarea. 

CbmofUtf,  bom  1496  ;  died  1629.  Antonio  and  BSigo,  who  were 
brothers,  were  both  scholars  of  Ant  del  Rinoon.  Higo  painted  the 
history  of  Pilate  on  the  wall  at  the  side  of  one  of  the  doon  of  the 
cathedral  df  Tblodo,  etc  Frandsoo,  alao  a  painter,  aon  of  ISigo  (died 
1565),  was  painter  to  the  Chapter  of  Toledo  in  1647. 

lAde  Moralee  (sumamed  '  el  Divino'  as  much  from  the  subjects  he 
treated  aa  firom  the  excellence  of  the  execution),  bom  at  Badijos  1509  ; 
died  at  Badajos  1566.  No  picture  of  his  earlier  than  1546.  St^Uj— 
Might  be  called  the  Spanish  Perugino ;  colouring  warm  and  brilliant 


PAINTING — BOHOOL  Of  8KVILL&  Ixxui 

His  picturet  of  Chnst  bietthe  the  moit  fdblime  ezpreflfdon  of  aelf- 
ncrifioe  and  raigned  lore  ;  hard  in  the  oaUinoa  ;  hia  modeUing  waata 
relief ;  too  minute  in  detaila,  anch  aa  the  hair  and  beard ;  good  ana- 
tomy,  eorreot  drawing,  and  the  half-tinta  yeiy  well  nnderrtood  and 
rendered.  PrmB^pal  Pichuru. —  At  Madrid  Pictore  Gallery,  which 
oontaina  aix  spedmena  ;  eacriaty  of  ohnreh  at  Oanna :  at  Alcantara,  over 
hi^  altar  of  the  church  of  the  oonyent  of  the  order  ;  at  cathedral  of 
Badi^,  and  at  pariah  chnrch  of  Arroyo  del  Poerco,  a  village  between 
MMda  and  Plaeencia,  where  there  are  sixteen  of  the  finest  he  erer 

Bla$  dd  PradOf  bom  at  Toledo  1497  ;  died  aboat  1593.  Contem- 
porary of  the  former,  and  aaid  to  haye  been  a  pupil  of  Bermgaete. 
BWib^^  Founding  of  the  Ohnreh  of  Our  Lady  of  LorettO|  at  Boyal 
Academy,  Madrid,  and  Picture  Galleiy,  Madrid,  No.  170. 

iSmcAef-Cbtefiy  hii  pupiL — Painted  illustrationB  of  liyea  of  Saints  in 
eknsteia  of  CSarthusian  conyenta  (Qranada,  etc) 

Lmt  d$  Carbt^alf  or  Cfarabtufolf  bom  at  Toledo  1534 ;  died  about  and 
after  1613.  F^ted  with  Blaa  del  Prado  at  Toleda,  at  the  Escorial,  and 
the  Puda  A  Magdalen  by  him  ia  to  be  aeen  at  the  Madrid  Picture 
Galleiy. 

Dcwwniea  HUotocopuli  (El  Greoco),  bom  in  Gbeece,  studied  under 
Titian.  He  liyed  at  Toledo  in  1577,  and  died  there  1685  ;  alaoa  good 
sculptor  and  architect  His  son,  Joige  Manuel  Theotocopuli,  was  a 
aeulptor  and  architect  S^U — ^At  first  imitated  Utian  successfully. 
Hie  pecsonal  second  style  he  adopted  was  extrayagant  in  length,  and 
often  in  composition ;  his  colouring  ashen-grey  ;  it  was  marked  by  great 
affectation.  Hia  last  manner,  when  he  became  mad,  is  simply  absurd. 
Prmeipal  irori&— At  sacristy  of  the  cathedral  of  Toledo,  Church  of  Sto. 
Tom^  in  same  dty.  Burial  of  Count  Orgas  (his  masterpiece) ;  at  the 
Escorial ;  and  ten  picturea  at  the  Picture  Gallery  of  Madrid. 

Jtian  BamHUa  Mayno^  bom  1569  ;  died  at  Madrid  1649.  He  was  a 
pupQ  of  £1  Grecco,  and  was  employed  by  the  Chapter  of  Toleda  Hia 
worka  may  be  aeen  at  Picture  Galleiy,  Madrid.     Imitated  Veronese. 

Luii  d$  F^rfoaco.— Besided  at  Toledo  in  1564  ;  died  1606.  Three 
pictures  in  the  cloisters  of  Cathedral  of  Toleda 

Lm»  IWiteii,  bom  near  Tbledo  1586 ;  died  1640.  The  fayourite 
piq[dl  of  El  Grecoo.  His  principal  works  are  at  Toledo  and  in  the  pariah 
ehurch  of  Yep^ 

SchoU  of  SmUe. 

Jman  SancKa  d€  Ca$tro. — 15th  centuiy ;  a  fresco  in  Church  of  San 

Seyille  (exec  1484),  and  a  Holy  Family;  died  about  1516. 
Pedro  AnidUt!— Worked  in  the  cathedral  of  Seyille ;  died  about  146i. 
Jtum  IfuneM,  a  pupU  of  Sanches  de  Outro.    A  T^igin  and  Christ  in 
Coarto  de  los  Subsidies,  attached  to  cathedral  of  Seyille. 


body  CONSRAL  INTOBMATION. 

JaUb  de  VargoM^  bom  at  Seville  1502 ;  died  1568 ;  may  be  eooaidered 
as  the  founder  of  Uie  sehool  of  Seville ;  went  to  Italy,  where  he  remained 
twenty-ei^t  yean,  and  stodied  under  Penn  del  Yaga,  whoee  style  he 
imitate  ffis  eailiest  woik  at  Seville  is  the  altar-jaeee  of  ehapel  of  the 
Nativity  in  the^cathedraly  and  La  GUmba,  or  Qenentiimy  at  same ;  at 
chnreh  of  Sta.  liana  la  Blanea,  Seville. 

FaJtlo  de  O^pftfet,  bom  at  Ooidova  1538 ;  died  1625 ;  in  1608  studied 
in  Italy.  Imitated  ConeggiOy  and  was  a  great  oolonrist  ^  The  painters 
of  the  sehool  of  Seville  learnt  from  him  the  fine  tone  of  their  fledt-tants." 
Principal  Wark$, — Cathedral  of  Oordova,  Chapter  Honse  and  Contadnria 
Mayor  of  the  Cathedral  of  Seville.  His  best  pupils  were  Zambrano, 
Peiialosa,  Contreras,  Yela,  Mohedana    Excelled  in  fruit-pieoes. 

AUm$o  VatquiMf  bom  at  Bonda ;  died  1650.  Worked  withMohedeno 
in  the  convent  of  St  Frauds,  Seville ;  also  excelled  in  fruit-pieces. 

Pedro  de  FOt^asirarmof^'d,  bom  at  Seville  1520;  died  1597.  Studied 
in  Italy,  and  imitated  the  Florentine  schooL  A  Yisitadon  in  cathedral, 
Seville. 

Jtian  de  lae  BcelaSf  bom  in  1558  or  60;  died  1625.  Studied  at  Yenice 
with  the  pupils  of  Titian  and  Tintoretto.  He  was  Zurbaran's  master. 
S^le, — His  colouring  is  veiy  fine  and  rich  ;  great  softness  of  execution. 
**  No  one  ever  painted  the  sleek  grimalkin  Jesuit  like  Roelas."  Had  great 
influence  in  the  Seville  schooL  Principal  Worts, — ^At  Olivares  (collegiate 
church),  Cathedral  of  Seville,  Hospitid  de  la  Caridad,  Seville,  Picture 
Galleiy  of  Seville,  University  of  SeviHe,  Church  of  San  Isidoro,  Seville. 

Lme  Fenumdeg,  lived  during  end  of  16th  century.  He  is  known  not 
by  his  pictures,  but  as  the  master  of  Juan  del  Osstillo  and  his  brother 
Augustin,  also  of  Herrero  and  Pacheca 

Juan  del  Castillo,  bom  at  Seville  1584.  •  He  was  the  master  of  Alonso 
Osno,  Pedro  de  Moya,  and  MuriUa  Six  fine  speoiinens  at  the  Picture 
QaUery,  Madrid,  and  at  the  Museo,  Seville. 

Aputin  del  CaMtiUo,  brother  of  Juan  del  Castillo,  and  pupil  of  Fer- 
nandex.  No  works  extant  exc^t  an  Adoration  of  the  Kings,  at  the  Ca- 
thedral of  Cadiz. 

Antonio  del  CastHlc,  the  son  of  J«an  del  Castillo,  and  pupil  of  Zur-  • 
baran.  He  died,  in  1667,  from  the  effects  of  envy  and  annoyance  caused 
by  the  sight  of  Muiillo's  pictures  in  the  Cathedral  of  Seville. 

Francisco  Pacheco,  bom  1579  ;  died  1654.  The  father-in-law  and 
teacher  of  Yelazquez,  and  a  remarkable  writer  on  painting.  He  was  a 
pupil  of  Femandex.  Style, — Correct  drawing,  good  and  equal  style, 
nataral  and  noble  attitudes  of  his  figures ;  he  was  intimately  acquainted 
with  all  the  effects  of  light  and  perspective.  His  colouring  was  some- 
what hard  and  stony,  and  the  execution  often  constrained.  Principal 
Pietwres, — Picture  Gallery,  Madrid,  and  at  the  Churches  of  San  Sebastian 
nd  Santiago  at  Mali  de  Quadaira. 

Luis  Pascual  Qmdin,  a  Carthusian  monk:  died  1621 ;  wtnked  at 


iPAINTING-^SGHOOL  OF  SEVILLB.  IzXT 

Serille.  Wb  *  Mairiage  of  the  Yitgin'  offended  Puheco^s  sense  of  pro- 
piietj  in  the  representetion  of  holy  personages,  as  he  diessed  the  Viigin, 
without  any  mantle,  in  a  Venetian  petticoat,  etc. 

Ihmoiieo  Herrera  (d  Vi^'o,  or  the  elder),  bom  at  Seville  1676 ;  died 
1666.  A  fellow-pupil  of  Pscheoo  at  the  school  of  Fernandez.  He  also 
engrayed  on  copper,  and  painted  frescoes.  Style. — *  Introduced  into  the 
school  of  Seville  that  bold  and  vigorous  touch  which  was  adopted  by 
Velasquei.'  His  drawing  is  ooirect,  his  knowledge  of  anatomy  and  pro- 
portions of  the  human  body  remarkable ;  expression,  symmetiy  in  the 
groups,  good  and  vigorous  colouring,  often  laid  on  wiUi  an  extraordinary 
imfattc  Prmcipal  Wcrh, — Picture  of  San  Hermenegildo  at  the  Picture 
Galleiy,  Seville,  and  a  Last  Judgment  in  the  Church  of  San  Bernardo, 
Seville. 

Franeitoo  Hmr$ra  (d  Moto^  bom  1622;  died  1686;  son  of  the 
fbmier.  (His  elder  brother,  H$mra  tl  RMo  (the  fair),  was  also  a  painter, 
less  known).  He  studied  in  Rome,  and,  like  his  elder  brother,  painted 
almost  exclusively  fish,  and  still-life  pieces,  and  was  called  at  Home 
'n  Spagnuolo  de^  pescL'  BtyU, — Imitated  hii  father^s  style;  surpassed 
him  in  the  painting  of  flower-pieces  and  bodegones;  inferior  in  his 
colouring,  where  the  reddish  half-tints  predominate,  and  was  well  ac- 
quainted with  the  happiest  effects  of  chiiux)-oscuro.  Principal  Pieiuret. 
— Picture  Galleiy,  Madrid,  No.  631 ;  Cupola  of  the  Church  of  Atocha, 
Madrid ;  and  Cupola  of  Choir  of  the  Church  of  San  Felipe  el  BeaL  ITJB. 
— ffis  uncle,  Bartolom^  painted  portraits  at  Seville. 

Alomo  Cano,  bom  1601  at  Granada;  died  1667.  Studied  under 
Picheco  and  Juan  del  Castillo,  and  was  also  a  great  sculptor  and  an 
architect  Style^^^li  is  doubtftd  whether  he  was  not  greater  as  a  sculptor 
than  as  a  painter.  His  manner  is  soft,  rich,  and  pleasing,  and  he  might 
be  called  the  Spanish  Correggio.  His  pencil  was  free  and  fertile,  yet 
correct  and  natural ;  his  colouring  rich  and  fine,  but  a  little  smoky ;  the 
outlines  consequently  appear  somewhat  indistinct  when  one  is  dose, 
though  the  detail  and  purity  of  the  form  may  l^e  seen  at  a  certain  dis- 
tance from  the  picture.  In  the  expression  of  his  figures  he  was  full  of 
sentiment  and  tenderness,  without  being  feeble  or  affected.  The  taste  of 
hii  draperies  and  his  forms  in  general  pure.  Principal  Works, — Cathedral 
of  Granada,  Picture  Gallery,  Madrid  (eight  specimens),  Church  of  Monte 
Sion,  Seville,  Cathedral  of  Seville,  University  of  Seville,  Church  of  San- 
tiago, Malaga,  Church  of  San  Girus,  Madrid. 

Pedro  Atanasio  Boeanegra^  bom  at  Granada.  Was  a  pupil  of  Cano, 
and  studied  also  Pedro  de  Moya's  style.  Worked  at  the  Cathedral  of 
Granada,  where  see  Virgin  and  San  Bernardo,  the  Scourging  at  the 
Bworial,  and  Picture  Gallery,  Madrid. 

Sebastian  de  LUmoe  y  VakUs,  lived  in  1667.  A  pupil  of  Herrera  el 
Yi^  and  was  killed  by  Cano  in  a  duel  His  works  are  very  seldom 
ioimd ;  thej  axe  very  ridi  in  colouring. 


Izzyi  GINIRAL  DflOBlCAIION. 

PedrodiMcfa,  bom  at  Gnnada  1610 ;  died  1666.  FeUow-pupil  of 
AloDto  Omo  nd  Moxillo  under  Outillo.  Frinclpellj  imitated  Yaa 
Dyeky  whom  He  went  to  atadj  in  England  in  1641.  His  anooeaafol  imi- 
tation of  tliia  master  is  said  to  haye  exercised  some  inflnenoe  on  the  style 
of  Mmillo. 

/Wm«ts0O  Zufharant  bom  at  Fnentes  de  Cantos  (Brtremadnia)  1598 ; 
died  1668.  Was  a  pupil  of  Laa  Boelaa.  JS^jfU, — ^Most  correct  drawing ; 
called  the  Spaniah  Cuavaggio.  Equal  to  Cano  in  reputation,  not  so 
tender  but  nune  vigorous  i  great  loftiness  of  wonderful  finish  of  the 
details  in  dress,  and  beautjr  and  truth  of  the  heada ;  generally  severe  in 
style,  rimple  in  composition ;  a  peculiar  pinky  tone,  especially  in  female 
cheeka.  Thib  prevalent  uae  of  rouge  at  that  time  influenced  his  eye,  ^s  it  did 
that  of  Yelazquea.  Prine^l  IforiiL— Picture  Galleiy,  Seville,*  Oathedral 
of  Seville.   At  the  Picture  Gallery,  Madrid,  there  are  fourteen  specimens. 

Jkm  d$  ValdSs  Leal,  bom  at  Cordova  in  1630  ;  died  1691.  Apupil 
of  Antonio  del  Castillo,  and  the  rival,  or  rather  adversary,  of  MuriUo. 
Style. — ^Forced  and  violent  attitudes,  sombre  and  gloomy  subjects,  a 
vigoroua  and  brilliant  colouring,  somewhat  exaggerated,  and  tinted  with 
violent  and  green  tones.  Principal  H^ia.— La  Caridad,  Seville ;  Pic- 
ture Qalleiy,  Seville ;  Picture  Qallery,  Madrid,  Kos.  89  and  470. 

BartoUmU  EUeban  Mubillo,  bom  at  Seville,  January  1,  1616 ;  died 
at  Seville,  April  3,  1688.  Waa  a  pupil  of  Castillo,  never  visited  Italy, 
and  began  by  w^itAijwg  Boelas  and  Zurbaran.  Style, — Has  three  recog- 
nised different  manners : — 1.  The  frio,  or  cold ;  8.  The  cdUdo^  or  warm  ; 
3.  The  vap&rveo,  or  mis^.  In  the  first,  *  the  outline  was  decided,  if  not 
hard,  and  the  tone  of  the  shadows  and  Uie  treatment  of  the  lights  remind 
us  ci  Zurbaran  or  Caravaggio.'  The  second,  which  he  adopted  about 
1648,  is  characterised  by  a  softer  outline  and  a  more  mellow  colouring. 
His  third  style,  which  is  the  most  characteristic  of  his  works  (thou^ 
the  painter  preferred  the  aeoond,  or  edUdo  himself),  exhibits  softness  and 
vigour  with  the  finest  colouring.  He  now  painted  rather  hastUy,  which 
produces  a  vaporous,  hazy  effect  thrown  over  the  whole — a  sort  of 
luninous  veiL  He  was  pre-eminent  as  a  colourist  The  colour  of  the 
flesh  in  contact  with  linen  is  very  fine ;  and  he  has  an  object  distinct 
firom  most  of  his  countrymen,  and  'aims  at  the  general  character  of 
flesh  when  tinged  with  the  glow  of  the  sun.  It  is  never  minute  or  par- 
ticular, but  a  general  and  poetical  recollection  of  nature ;  and  when  suc- 
cessful it  is  of  the  same  class,  and,  in  no  remote  degree,  an  approach  to 
Titian  and  Correggia'  (WiUbie,)  His  most  successful  works  have  for 
subjects  the  '\^igin  and  Infant  Deity.  He  was,  therefore,  called  *  EL 
pintor  de  los  concepdones,'  and  the  children  and  cherabs  he  painted, 
'  loa  nifioa  de  Murillo.'  Prineipal  Warh, — ^His  own  favourite  painting  is 
St  Thomas  giving  Alms,  at  the  Picture  Galleiy,  Seville — he  is  b^er 
studied  here  than  at  Madrid ; — ^Picture  Gallery,  Seville  ;  Cathedral, 
SeviUe ;  Picture  Qalleiy,  Madrid. 


PAINnNG — SOHOOL  OF  KADBID.  IxXTU 

Sebattitm  Chmm,    A  pnpfl  and  the  mulatto  daya  of  Mnzilla 

Frnk^Nm^UB  de  V%lknncenci»,  bom  at  Seville  1636 ;  died  1700.    He 

a  pupil  of  Muillo^  and  was,  with  Tobar,  the  beat  pupil  and  imitator 
of  the  maiter'a  ityle,  and  their  worka  are  often  miiiteVen  aa  being  hj 
him.    (See  at  the  Pietnze  QaUerj,  Madrid,  Na  61.) 

/WmoMO  Mmeiei  Omerio^  died  beginning  of  ISth  oentnij,  Papil 
of  Mnrilla  He  painted  at  Seville,  and  finished  at  Cadii  ^e  picture 
hia  master  was  painting  when  he  fell  firom  thescafibld  and  soon  after  died. 

Jwtm  Oamm^  died  at  Madrid  in  1729.    A  pupil  of  Mnrillo. 

Ipiacio  d$  IriarUy  bom  at  Azcoitia  1680  ;  died  1686.  Popil  of 
Henvra  el  Yiqo.    Painted  almost  exclnslYely  luidsoapes. 

Tolar,  bom  1678 ;  died  1768.  Pupil  of  Fiyaido  and  successful  imi- 
tator of  Murilla  Specimens  at  Chapel  del  Consueb  (Cathedxal,  Seville) ; 
two  at  Picture  Qalleiy,  Madrid. 

JSekoU  of  Madrid, 

Maj  be  also  called  of  Outile,  and  is  composed  of  painters  from  Sala- 
manca, Burgos,  Yalladdlid,  Madrid. 

Oatpar  B^oma^  bom  16S0  at  Baeza ;  died  1670.  Studied  in  Italy, 
and  waa  made  by  Philip  XL,  in  1663,  his  court-painter.  Introduced  with 
Benuguete  the  Italian  taste  in  Spain.  Most  of  his  works  have  perished. 
A  retid>b  in  the  CSathedral  of  Astoiga ;  very  Florentine  style. 

ii{^WsoiScm«to  (M2o,  bom,  beginning  of  1 6th  pentury,  near  Valencia; 
1690.  Was  probably  of  Portuguese  origin  (Coelho)  ;  became  a 
piqiil  of  Antonio  More,  and  studied  in  Italy.  8tyli — ^^  Was  peculiarly 
distinguished  in  portraits.  Qreat  life  and  troth  to  nature.'  He  eigoyed 
great  distinction  from  Philip  IL  Principal  WcrH—ki  Picture  Qalleiy, 
Madrid,  eight  fine  pifl|iires,  all  portraits,  save  a  St  Catherine,  painted  on 
CQik;  Kscorial.  , 

•/kofft  Ponlq^  de  la  Onu,  bom  at  Madrid  1661 ;  died  at  Madrid 
1610.  The  best  pupil  of  A  S.  Coella  *  These  pictures,  by  Coello  and 
Pantqja,  of  InfSuits  and  TwlWwiM^  bristling  with  the  stifhess  and  fomiality 
of  the  old  Spanish  Court,  independently  of  their  merit  as  works  of  arty 
are  in  themselves  most  interesting.'  Several  pictures,  mostly  portraits, 
in  the  Picture  Gallery,  Madrid. 

J,  FemandeM  NawgrrtU^  sumamed  M  Mudo^  bom  at  LogroBo,  16S6  ; 
died  1679.  He  studied  in  Italy,  and  worked  in  the  EscoriaL  'One  of 
hia  best  is  the  Bi^tism  of  Christ  at  Madrid  Picture  Gallery,  from  the 
EsooriaL    A  colourist  of  the  Titian  school' 

Imii  d€  Carbtffalf  or  Caraht^falf  bom  at  Toledo  1634 ;  died  begin- 
ning of  17th  century.  P^ted  at  the  Esoorial,  Pardo,  and  Csthedral, 
Toledo,  with  BhM  del  Prado  (1691).  His  Magdalen,  a  masterpiece,  is  in 
Madrid  Picture  Gallery  (Na  476).    He  was  named  painter  to  Philip  IL 

YBL4IQUBS  (Dpfi  Diego  Vdaejuet  de  8iha\  bom  at  Seville  1699 ; 


Ixxviii  OENSRAL  INTOBMATION. 

died  at  Madrid  1660.  Became  a  pupil  of  Heneia  the  Elder  and  Pacheoo, 
and  studied  also  in  Italy.  ^U, — ^He  first  imitated  Caravaggio  and 
Bibera,  of  which  the  Agoado?  de  Seyilla,  now  in  Apdey  Honae,  and  an 
Adoration  of  Shepherds,  in  the  Lonrre,  are  examples.  He  was  essentially 
a  *  natoralist'  He  stands  as  a  portrait-painter  side  by  side  with  Yandyck 
and  Titian.  He  often  IibIIb  short  of  the  elegance  of  the  fonner,  and  he  is 
inferior  to  the  latter  in  brilliancy  and  colour ;  but  the  feeling  and  spirit 
of  his  subject  are  admirably  conceived  and  executed.  Every  touch  has 
meaning,  and  nothing  is  conventional.  '  For  handling  no  one  surpasses 
him,  but  in  colour  Beynolds  is  much  beyond  him,  and  so  is  MurUlo.  In 
painting  an  intelligent  portrait,  Yelazques  is  nearly  unrivalled;  but 
where  he  attempts  simple  nature  or  saoed  subjects  he  is  &r  inferior  to 
Murillo.'  (ITOto.)  Fritmpal  WorU— At  the  Madrid  Gallery,  his 
Lanzas,  Meninas,  and  Borrachos ;  besides  others  in  some  noblemen's 
houses  at  Madrid. 

ParejOy  bom  1606 ;  died  1670.  A  pupil,  and  first  the  slave  of 
Velazquez.  The  *  Call  of  St  Matthew,'  by  him,  is  at  the  Picture  Gallery, 
Madrid. 

J.  Bauiuiadd  Mato^  bom  at  Madrid  1630  ;  died  1687 ;  Velazquez's 
son-in-law,  and  his  most  successful  pupiL  His  works,  five  in  number, 
may  be  seen  at  Madrid  and  the  EscoriaL 

MaUo  Cento^  bom  at  Burgos  1636  ;  died  1676.  A  pupil  of  Carreiio. 
Celebrated  for  his  mpierous  pictures  of  the  Immaculate  Conception. 
Valladolid,  Madrid  (Chapel  of  Atocha). 

/.  Carrwko^  bom  at  Aril^  1614  ;  died  1686.  Pupil  of  Las  Cu  vas. 
Worked  at  the  Escorial  and  Royal  Palace  of  Madrid. 

Claudio  Godlo,  died  at  Madrid  1693.  A  pupil  of  Biza  and  CarreSo. 
His  masterpiece  is  *  La  Santa  Forma,'  at  the  EscoriaL  His  genius  was 
crippled  by  the  prevalent  bad  taste  of  his  times. 

Rin  {FraneiMco),  bom  at  Madrid  1608  ;  died  1686.  Pupil  of'^^- 
cenzio  Carducho.  The  Bicci,  Carducci,  Ciyeci  (Caj^),  etc,  were  all  of 
Italian  descent,  and  their  works  are  of  no  great  merit 

Palomino^  bom  at  Bugalance  1663  ;  died  1726.  A  pupil  of  Valdes 
Leal,  but  worked  almost  exclusively  in  Castile,  Madrid,  and  Salamanca. 
Painted  the  cupola  of  sacristy  of  La  Caituja  at  Granada.  More  cele- 
brated for  his  literary  than  artistic  works.  He  was  the  author  of  '  El 
Mus6o  Pictorioo,'  etc. 

Menende$  (M.  Jacinto),  bom  at  Oviedo  1679  ;  died  1762.  Studied 
in  Italy,  and  was  especially  a  miniature-painter.  Luii  Menendu,  the  son 
and  pupil  of  the  former,  and  his  younger  brother,  Franci»oo  ArUcnio, 
were  also  painters.  Luis,  bom  1716;  died  1780.  There  are  thirty-eight 
paintings  by  him  at  the  Madrid  Picture  Gallery. 

Goya.— Painted  a  great  deal  at  Madrid.  Bom  1746 ;  died  182& 
One  of  the  few  really  original  Spanish  painters  who  strack  out  a  new 


PAIMTINQ — 80H00L  OF  ICADRID.  Izzil 

ptlli.  Great  imaginaticnL  '  Skilled  as  well  in  the  management  of  ooloor 
and  bniah  aa  in  that  of  the  bnrin,  aquafortii,  and  the  lithographic  stone ; 
lus  efifocto  in  scenes  of  common  life  are  inimitable  for  their  sazprising 
tenth  and  force/  Bespecting  this  master  see  Friarte*s  *  CEaTie  de  Qoya.' 
Tliere  are,  besides  Uie  above,  several  so-called  Escnelas,  as,  for  example, 
that  of  Aragon,  whose  chief  artists  were — R.  Tozrente  (died  1323) ; 
Chiillen  Fort,  his  pnpil ;  Bonant  de  Ortiza  (1437)  ;  Pedro  de  Aponte 
(1479),  who  studied  in  Italy  under  Qhirlandigo ;  F.  Pelegret,  who 
studied  with  P.  Caravaggio ;  Domin  Forment,  Ihe  Cellini  of  Aragon ; 
A.  Qolcovan  (1688);  Geronimo  de  Moia  (1587) ;  Ximenes  (died  1666). 
Then,  in  the  18th  century,  the  more  inferior  Artiga,  Piano,  Babiella, 
Almor,  OManoya,  etc^  ending  with  Martinez,  Bajeu,  and  Goya,  the  best 
of  whom  belong  more  properly  to  the  Madrid  school,  if  there  was  any  at 
that  time.  In  CataluSa,  the  Yiladomat,  Baylon,  Perramon,  Cesilles,  etc^ 
hare  been  said  by  native  critics  to  constitute  a  school ;  but  the  fact  is, 
that  what  is  generally  understood  by  that  name  hardly  applies  even  to  the 
groiq»  of  painters  that  flourished  at  Seville,  Toledo,  Valencia,  and  Madrid. 

Bcokt  pf  Referena, — ^Mr.  Sdrling's  *  Annals  of  Spanish  Painters,'  is  the 
most  important  and  accorate  historiod  work  npon  Spanish  painters.  It  has 
been  tnmslated  into  Spanish,  with  notes,  bj  Maldonado  Macanaz.  It  is 
based  on  Cean  Bermuda's  '  Dicdonario.* 

Captain  Cooke  Widdrington*s  <  Spain  in  1843,*  contains  some  nseftil  infor- 
matum. 

*  Les  Moste  d'Espagne,'  bj  L.  Viardot  (Paris,  i860,  3d  ed.),  was  the  first 
work  that  called  the  attention  of  foreign  cognoscenti  to  Spanish  pictures.  The 
substance  b  based  on  Palomino  and  Cean  Bermudez.  The  appreciations  are 
considered  most  trustworthy,  and  we  have  transcribed  manj  of  them  almost 
entirely. 

*  Handbook  of  Painting'  by  Sir  Ed.  Head,  toL  iL,  containing  the  Spanish 
and  Preach  schools;  London,  Murray,  1854.  Most  reliable  for  information, 
and  with  an  account  of  the  Spanish  pictures  out  of  Spain. 

PassaTanfs  *  Die  Christliche  Kunst  in  Spanien,'  1853 ;  Leipzig. 

R.  Cnmberland's  '  Anecdotes  of  Eminent  Spanish  Painters,'  2  toIs.  i2mo ; 
London,  1782.  (Contains  a  catalogue  of  the  pictures  of  the  King  of  Spain  in 
1787.) 

A.  PaUmm9^  *  Moseo  Pict6rico  y  Escala  Optica,'  3  toIs.  foL  ;  Madrid, 
1 795-6-7.  (An  abridged  edition  pnUished  in  London  in  1744*)  Somewhat 
inaccurate^  but  aseluL 

F.  A^Ascp,  •  El  Arte  de  la  Pinturs,  su  Antigiiedsd  y  Grandezas ;'  Seville^ 
1649.  Very  scarce,  and  of  great  importance  for  the  history  of  Spanish  paint- 
ing. The.  substance  of  much  has  passed  into  other  works.  He  wrote  a  MS. 
*  Descripdon  de  Retratos  Autenticos,'  etc. — a  series  of  biographical  sketches 
of  the  painters  and  literati  who  frequented  his  studia  The  original  MS.  has 
been  lost ;  a  copy  is,  we  believe,  in  the  hands  of  the  Serillian  poet,  Sefior 
D.  L  Maria  Bueno. 

Fdi^  di  Gunmm,  *Comentarios  de  la  Pintura'  (published  by  Pom); 
Madrid,  1788. 


IZXX  OSNKRAL  DflOBMATION. 

• 

Cam  Binmtda,  *  Diodomurio  Historioo  de  los  mts  ilnstres  Profeiofci  de 
las  BeOai  Axtes  en  Espafiat'  6  Yolt.  i2mo;  Madrid,  i8oa  The  best  of  all 
authorities.     *  Velaxques,  his  Life^'  etc.,  by  W.  Stiriing ;  1855. 

Consult,  also,  for  the  Aragonese  school,  MiSano's  '  Diockmario  Geogiifioo,' 
whidi  contains  a  paper  on  it  bj  Cean  Bemradez. 

Ekmlptnro* 

Spanish  scnlptoie  has  been  oyerlooked  by  most  tourists,  but  deserves 
their  attention.  The  Spanish  scnlptor,  until  the  reign  of  Chailes  Y.^ 
was  deprived  by  law  of  the  study  of  anatomy,  as  the  Ohurch  forbade 
dissection.  The  indifference  evinced  by  all  towards  the  Boman  remains 
of  art  oontributed  also  to  paralyse  the  progress  of  sculpture.  Besides, 
nudity  was  supposed  to  be  indecent,  and  accmLingly  proMMted,  although 
'  rien  nliabille  comme  le  nu,'  said  Yoltalre.  Sculpture  would,  indeed, 
never  have  eziBted  had  not  the  notion  of  bodily  representations  of  the 
heroes  and  events  of  sacred  histoiy  prevailed,  which  called  it  into  exist- 
ence. Painted  sculpture,  a  peculiarity  of  Spanish  art,  always  prevailed 
over  the  simple  marble,  ghost-like  statnaiy.  The  statues  were  to  be  as 
like  to  life  as  possible,  whence  they  were  clothed  often  with  stufb  ;  the 
beards,  hair,  eyelashes,  sometimes  were  reaL  They  are  not  thus  wanting 
in  effect ;  more  effective,  indeed,  in  the  churches,  upon  the  altars  for 
which  they  were  intended,  than  the  cold,  monotonous  marble  would  have 
been,  for  they  are  in  keeping  here  with  all  the  rest  around  them, — ^the 
waim  rich  varied  tints  of  tibe  painted  ^ass,  the  heavy  gilt  and  painted 
railings,  the  many-coloured  pavement,  the  diaperies  and  pictures. 

These  statues  and  sacred  groups  once  removed  from  their  appointed 
station  mnst  naturally  appear,  what  they  really  are,  out  ofplae$ ;  *  Lea 
hommes,'  says  La  Bochefoucaidt,  *  sont  comme  les  statues,  pour  les  juger 
il  faut  des  voir  en  place.'  On  the  altars  they  should  have  been  left,  for 
that  was  their  place.  Spanish  sculpture  exerted  itself  principally  in  the 
magnificently  carved  and  ettofado  (gilt)  retabloi,  usually  filled  up  with 
series  of  basso-relievo  scenes  from  Scripture,  the  Virgin's  life,  or  that  of 
the  tutelar  patron  of  the  lugar;  groups  in  the  TVascoro  and  Trasaltar, 
besides  sing^  statues  of  saints  with  their  attributes  in  the  chapels  dedi- 
cated to  them.  Alto-relievo  medallions  over  doors,  statues  (never  painted) 
in  niches,  recumbent  or  kneeling  e£Bgies  on  tombs,  etc.,  were  also  objects 
of  the  sculptor's  chisel  that  deserve  attention.  The  carved  sillerias  or 
stalls  in  the  choirs  are  among  the  finest  in  the  world.  Sculpture  here, 
as  elsewhere,  in  some  degree,  has  followed  the  gradations  of  architecture 
and  painting.  In  the  dark  ages  art  disappeared  through  the  oblivion  of 
daasical  principles,  and  during  the  Bysantine  and  early  Qothic  periods 
sculpture  in  Spain  was  rude,  symbolical,  and  conventionaL  The  most 
briUiant  period  was  the  16th  century,  when  the  study  of  Italian  models, 
and  a  growing  gusto  for  the  Bevival,  introduced  new  ideas  and  created 


BOULPTDBK  Ixzxi 

■nnbtion.  Towudttlieeadof  tliel7tli  canfanyutbeMiiMbaatudued, 
ntd  followed  the  preecpto  of  tlie  bad  tute  pnnlent  at  tlut  period,  and 
in  the  preeont  da^  acolpture  mtkj  be  Mfelf  nid  not  to  eziat  in  Spain. 
In  the  leth  eenhiix  iti  chenet«r  ma  Toijr  pecoliar,  the  life-like  appear- 
anee  <4  gnmpa  and  itatDea  ma  moat  ataitling ;  the  Tigonr,  breadth,  and 
iiHaiMJiiii  am  nanallf  yerj  remarkable ;  the  eompoi&ion,  eepedallj  of 
gnnpi^  fnelj  conMiTed  and  genanllf  wdl  carried  out ;  the  ezaeataui  of 
datailB  Teiy  exqtiinte,  the  attitndea  theatrical  and  exasKerated.  The 
genenl  eharacterietio  ii  aetioit,  which  tlie  impaanoned,  fi^  Soothenen 
like  and  nndentand  better  than  r^icit,  a  mora  difficnlt  and  intimatelj 
■athetic  lenlinient.  The  greateet  scalpton  hare  been  Ltan  Leoni,  and 
hie  ion  Pomp^  Ltoni,  native*  of  Italy,  whose  gilt-bionze  atatoes  at  the 
Eeoorial  and  Valladolid  are  among  the  fineat  of  their  kind;  Atfinio 
BvmgittU,  the  Spaniih  BenTennto  Cellini ;  Amtto,  who  was  a  graat 
anatomirt,  aod  even  niade  the  deeigne  for  an  anatomical  work  pnbliebed 
at  Borne,  1GG4,  the  text  bj  Dr.  J.  de  Talverde,  and  executed  two  anato- 
mieal  itntnee  (Cean  Bennndei  consider!  him  ai  the  fint  of  Spuilah 
aenlpton ;  bis  maaterpieeea  an  Ja  Tirgen  de  la  Soledad,  and  a  grand 
retablo  in  the  Cathedral  of  Astoiga,  etc) ;  the  fiery  and  graudioee  Jtiam 
dt  Jiau,  the  Min>ml  Angelo  of  Spun ;  Ortgmc  Htnianda,  whoee  style 
la  *o  elevated,  gracefol,  and  refined  \  JfonttAti,  snmamed  the  Fbidiaa  of 
Senile,  all  giaee,  exqniaite  delleaer,  and  tendemeaa  ;  Aybiuo  Com,  hia 
pt^l,  whoee  worka  exhibit  mneh  of  hia  maiter'a  taate  and  elegance,  tota- 
(aned  with  originalitj,  eipsenioD,  and  toeellent  earrfid  modelling. 

Sealptue  in  Spain  wia  aeldom  cmtddered  othenriae  than  aa  aa 
iBteaKiiy  to  anUtaeton.  It  beeame  the  tongne  of  ediflcea,  which  the 
nnletteted  eonld  read, '  Idbri  idiotamm,'  all  ajmbdical,  and  whoee  eeriia 
impotent  baa  been  aometime*  defined  aa  oonventicmaL  The  esamplee 
•le  acattend  all  oTer  Spain,  in  ehnrchea,  rtdnona  oonvcnta,  noblemoi^ 
honsee,  aod  aome  moaeoa ;  in  that  of  Yalladolid  there  ia  the  beat  ooUee- 
tiini ;  and  it  ia  in  that  dty  and  Berille  and  Toledo  that  Bpeuiah  een^itnie 
haa  to  be  prindpallj  atndied. 

liet  of  the  i»incipel  Speniah  eonlpton,  with  the  period  of  theii  deaAb, 
n  that  when  ituj  flonriahed  y~ 


boodi  QENBBAL  INTOBICATION. 

Tena-cotta  we  baye  omitted  mentioning^  m  foxeign,  in  one  aenae,  to 
onr  subject  There  are,  howeyer,  eeveral  excellent  epedmena  in  chnrchesy 
oyer  portals  In  cathedrals  (Seyi]le)|  and  the  spirited,  freely-modelled^ 
coloured  groups  and  statuettes  of  bull-fighting  aubjecta  at  Malaga. 

Bcoks  of  R^ermei, — ^We  know  of  no  Spanidi  works  oo  ioonogniphy.  Those 
of  our  readers  who  are  curious  of  deciphering  the  now  dead  language  expressed 
hf  sculpture  in  the  early  churches  niay  consult  Didron's  '  Msnud  d'Iconographie 
Chr^enne,'  and  the  Abb^  Crosnier's  work  oo  the  same  subject  On  sculpture, 
genersUy,  there  is  great  scarcity  of  books,  as  the  matter  has  not  been  as  yet  in- 
vestigated. Besidei^  most  of  the  early  sculptors,  until  perhaps  the  beginning  of 
the  14th  oentuiy,  were  also  and  especially  ardiitects,  and  bdonged  to  monas- 
teries, where  men  lost  all  individuality.  Cean  Bermudex's  '  Diodonario  *  may 
be  consulted. 

Fdroelain. 

PoBOWiiTW  amatenra  cannot  look  upon  Spain  withont  intereat,  as  it  baa 
oontnbnted  a  generona  ahare  to  the  pottei^a  art  Snch  names  aa  Majolica, 
Buen  BetirOy  and  Mooriah  Asolejoey  are  aoffident  to  awaken  their 
symp^^ea  and  excite  their  leaL 

The  Oarthaginian  pottery,  which  prindpally  flonriahed  at  Sagnntom 
(now  Mnrviedroy  aee  Fatoicta)|  waa  yeiy  celebrated  in  the  time  of  the 
Romanay  and  produced  the  'Oalioea  Sagnntini'  of  Martial  (xiy.  108), that 
were  of  that  beaotifiil  jaaper-red,  wbi^  Pliny  mentions,  in  the  mannfiu>- 
tore  of  which,  he  adda,  ISOO  woikmen  were  empbydL  {Vid$  Pliny, 
Hirt.  Nat,  Hb.  xxxr.  a  IS.) 

P^agmenta  are  atill  found  here  (beware  of  the  usual  impoeitiona  piac- 
tiaed  on  ereduloua  trayeUers),  and  exhibit  great  elegance  of  deaign,  being 
moat  Oriental  in  the  outline.  The  Oond^  de  Lumiare'a  woric,  'Barroa 
Saguntinoa,*  with  printa  (Valencia,  Oiga,  1779,  8ya),  throws  some  li^t 
on  the  subject ;  but  the  names  of  the  manu£sctorers,  etc.,  are  all  un- 
known, for,  alaa 


ThM  &aMb  fiktt /prr'^Mw  cait^  Car  ysMt  Bunt  by 
Boriad  and  ■ux'd  witk  doMMlal  day.— Hakt. 


We  know  the  Phosnieiana  excelled  in  the  manu&cture  of  eaithenware 
eupa,  ehalioea,  the  ««nf^  of  the  Qreeka,  which,  in  the  middle  agea, 
were  all  made  after  the  Qreek  and  Roman  modela.  The  Romans  did 
not  negleot  the  manufaoturea  of  Spanish  pottery,  but  the  Mohammedana 
raised  it  to  a  high  degree  of  excellence  by  the  introduction  of  the 
general  use  of  tiles  of  enamelled  earthenware,  called  asnlejoa,  from  the 
Arable '  Znleya,  luleich,'  a  yamiahed  tile,  lliey  are  of  Perdan  origin 
(the  lamrad  blue).  We  do  not  think  that  the  early  Moon  knew  them, 
and  there  are  fbw  yestages  of  these  tiles  in  the  Moeque  of  Qndoya  ; 
those  that  exist  must  have  been  posterior  to  the  10th  eentuiy.  In  the 
Mihrib  (Mosque  of  Oordoya),  the  enamelled  yitreous  moeaica,  the  finest 


POBOELAIN.  lygTTiii 

of  tlieir  kind  in  Earopey  were  «  Byiantine  prodnoe,  the  Qieek  4^fi##»^ 
and  Anbie  FaefysUiy  or  SofeTBafth.  The  Alhambra  tiles  are  among  the 
fineat  in  the  wodd.  The  Moorish  buildings  at  Berille  and  Toledo  were 
also  adorned  with  this  style  of  deooratiye  potterj. 

Tlie  sun-dried  bricks  made  in  Spain,  an  Arab  importation,  are  called 
odtbe^  mnd-wall,  (kib. 

The  Spaniards  learned  the  art  of  tile-potteiy  from  the  more  refined 
Easterns,  uid  became  yery  proficient  As  examples,  we  may  mention 
the  Dados  in  the  Oasa  de  Pilatos  at  Seville,  the  Portal  de  las  Moigas  de 
Sta.  Panla,  the  dnqneoento  asolejos  foond  here  and  there  in  the  Alcasar 
of  Seville,  the  asnlqo  picture  in  the  chapel  at  this  Alcazar,  put  up  by 
Isabella  the  Qstholic  ;  the  fine  asulejo  pictures  in  the  principal  figade  of 
the  Hospital  de  U  Oaridad,  after  deei^  by  Mnrillo  (Serille),  at  Barce- 
lona, Ocmyent  de  la  Merced,  dnqnecento  Dados,  rcprwionting  the  victories 
of  Jayme  L  of  Aragon,  portion  of  exterior  of  La  Sen  at  Zaragoa,  etc 

Thii  charming  fashion  fell  off  in  the  17th  century,  but  the  manufac- 
ture of  them  still  continues  to  prosper  in  Spain,  at  Manises,  near 
Valencia,  and  at  Seville,  and  considerable  importation  takes  place  from 
Morocco.  Th^  are  used  in  courts,  passages,  gardens,  bath-rooms.  They 
are  seen  in  butchen^  shops,  fishmongen^  stidls,  etc ;  but  they  deserve 
all  the  attention  of  architects  and  men  of  taste.  From  the  progress  that 
porcelain-painting  has  made,  which  has  great  analogy  with  enamel-paint- 
ing, the  processes  tlwd  at  Limoges,  the  superior  means  disposed  of  now, 
of  making  the  tiles  of  almost  any  siie  and  thinness,  they  might  be  in 
many  cases  a  substitute  for  cold,  meaningless,  heavy  stone  ;  superior  to 
frescoes,  that  do  not  generally  last  in  the  open  air,  and  preferable  to 
bricks ;  they  adapt  themselves  to  all  dimatfs.  Ceramic  decoration  for 
the  exteriors  of  buildings  ought  to  be  developed,  and  when  applied 
soberiy,  and  with  intelligence,  will  not  be  found,  we  think,  foreign  to 
dignity  and  repose. 

'  Knnca  hutfs  casa  con  axulejos,*  shows,  however,  that  this  decoration 
is  attended  with  expense.  They  are  of  a  pale  clay,  backed,  squeesed 
into  moulds,  glased  on  the  surfiMe  with  a  white  opaque  enamd,  upon 
which  designs  are  executed  in  colours.  The  Moorish  tiles  were  painted ; 
the  Spanish  ones  are  generally  stamped.  The  usual  tints  of  the  earliest 
were  blue  or  brown.  The  secondary  colours,  purple,  green,  and  orange, 
were  also  used.  About  the  16th  century,  whites  and  yellows  were  the 
fashion,  and  in  the  beginning  of  the  17th  century,  yellow,  almost  exclu- 
sively. But  these  tiles  were  not  the  only  production  of  Moorish  pottery. 
The  jars  (jamu)  and  the  water-coolers  (aloanuat),  all  Oriental  in  shape, 
were  elaborately  ornamented.  These  parous  day  drinking-vessels,  from 
Al-Karatth,  are  of  course  a  Moorish  importation,  and  differ  little  from 
the  Egyptian  hardadu  made  at  Elhermeh.  The  Arabs'  early  iooUh^ 
which  hold  and  keep  the  water  so  well,  were  the  prototypes  of  the  botijo^ 


Ixzxiv  QENSRAL  INFOBICATION. 

ICaitial'8  TmUa  (m,  106  ;  iy.  46),  who  mentioDS  all  toe  pftrtienlan  ot 
thoM  made  at  Sagantam  ;  they  are  veiy  like  the  Oenobio  aranxd,  Thfij 
were  probably  introdooed  bj  the  PhoBnidana,  and  were  made  in  Seville 
as  early  aa  304  ajo.  They  are  generally  placed  on  taUtu^  at  atands,  and 
kept  cool  by  being  corered  with  linen.  Tlie  moat  chanctexiatio  are  made 
at  Andt^r,    They  are  of  different  coloma — ^yellow,  brown,  and  white. 

Of  Moorish  ceramic  art,  the  beantifal  and  cdebrated  vase  at  the 
Alhambra  ia  a  good  apecimen  ;  it  datea  about  1320  ;  the  companion  of  it 
was  broken,  and  the  tegmenta  carried  away  by  a  French  lady  connois- 
seuEi  There  ii  a  copy  at  Sevres.  The  Hispano- Arabic  potteiy  flourished 
till  the  beginning  of  the  17  th  century,  the  period  of  the  final  expulsion 
of  the  Moors  ;  its  influence  haa  been  pennanent  To  this  day  all  earthen- 
ware  pots  and  vases  axe  of  Moorish  form.  The  edniaros  and  botifoi  of 
that  partienlar  peculiarly-scented  l6earo  cli^,  the  Qargantuaplike  Titu^, 
where  the  wine  and  oil  are  kept,  the  alcarrams  of  Videntia,  eoMutku^  etc, 
at  Elche,  are  all  of  Eastern^  very  early  forms. 

Besides,  the  Moors'  pottery  is  considered  to  be  the  prototype  of  the 
Italian  Majolica.  The  Hispano-Arabio  pottery  has  been  divided  into  three 
classes.  1st.  Of  the  transition  period  between  strictly  Moorish  and 
Spanish,  a  yellow  ground  with  lustred-reddish  ornaments,  flowers,  and 
birds.  2d.  Of  13th  to  14th  century,  generally  ornamented  with  shields 
of  Castile,  Leon,  Aragon,  of  a  uniform  golden  yellow  tone.  3d.  14th  to 
end  of  1 5th  century,  with  pattema  in  coloured  enamel,  with  golden  yellow 
omamenta,  escutcheons,  foliage,  cyphers,  sometimes  animala.  This  is 
thought  by  Mr.  Manyat  to  be  the  style  copied  by  Italian  artists  in  the 
1 6th  century.  *  Spain  had  the  priority  over  Italy  in  the  manufacturo  of 
enamelled  pottery'  (Marrya().  The  Moorish  potteiy  passed  from  Valeuda 
to  Minorca,  whence  Ma^foUea^  and  finally  to  Haa  and  Pesara  This  seems 
undeniable  firom  all  that  the  highest  authorities  have  stated  (Scaliger, 
Fabio  Ferrari,  etc.),  but  no  doubt  the  ground  had  b^en  well  prepared  by 
the  Sicilian  Saracens  (ajx  827),  who  decorated  the  mosque  at  Palermo. 
The  day  that  was  used  in  the  manufacturo  of  Majolica  waro  ia  found  in 
Migorca  at  Puigpufient  and  at  KstellenchSi 

On  the  succession  of  the  House  of  Bourbon,  French  pottery  iwas  in- 
troduced and  imitated,  and  the  Qranja  Porcelain  Factoiy,  an  appendage 
to  the  Fabrica  de  Cristales,  was  established  in  1688  by  the  French 
Thevart,  and  enlarged  by  Charles  IIL  But  a  more  important  one  was 
established  by  this  latter  sovereign  at  Madrid,  in  the  Qardena  del  Buen 
Retiro,  about  1769.  The  modds  and  workmen  came  from  the  Nea- 
politan manufactory  of  Cano  di  Monte.  The  influence  of  the  Sevres,  of 
which  specimens  were  sent  constantly  as  presents  to  the  Spanish  court, 
waa  felt  in  the  workmanship  of  the  new  Spanish  porcelain.  The  build- 
ings were  destroyed  during  the  French  occupation.  It  is  like  Capo  di 
Monte  ware.    Qroupa  of  figurea,  mostly  mythological  subjects,  were  also 


MUSIG.  IXZXT 

made.  The  mariu  are :  a  fleur-de-lyB,  either  in  blue  or  stamped  in 
relief,  and  the  monogram  of  Oharlee  m.  The  china  cabinet  in  the 
Qneen  of  Spain's  palace  at  Aiai\juez  is  certainly  one  of  the  best  examples 
of  the  tastcfdl  and  the  rare  application  of  porcelain  to  the  decoration  of 
rooms.  AU  the  walls,  ceilings,  doors,  are  fitted  up  with  high  relieYo 
Baen  Betiro  ware.  The  effect  is  admirable.  The  china-mannfitctore 
established  at  La  Mondoa  bj  Ferdinand  YIL,  notwithstanding  Sefior 
Siireda*s  efforts,  no  longer  exists. — Consult  Oh.  Davillier's  excellent  work 
on  the  subject,  besides  Manyafs  'History  of  Porcelain  and  Pottery,' 
London,  1867,  which  has  been  recently  translated  Into  French,  with 
Taluable  notes  ;  Jacquemart's  Besearches,  etc 

Muflic. 

'  Dahoiko,'  says  Mr.  Ticknor, '  has  been  to  Spain  what  music  has  been  to 
Italy — a  passbn  with  the  whole  population.'  Spanish  national  music  is, 
therefore,  strictly  mtmque  dantantef  composed  to  accompany  dances, 
entrenuaeif  roystering  ballads,  whence  cidled  dannu  kakadat^  hayU» 
enireme$adoi.  Most  of  the  Spanish  musical  instruments  have  an  Eastern 
derivation,  the  rdbel,  zambomba,  pandereta,  guitarra,  and  gaita.  Musical 
instruments,  peculiar  to  some  provinces,  may  be  earlier  still  than  the 
former,  such  as  the  goita  in  Asturias,  and  the  tomboril  of  the  Basque. 
The  emphatic  instrument  is  the  guitar,  the  xtid^a  of  the  Qreeks,  and 
kinoor  common  to  all  the  East  The  words  mean  little  or  nothing. 
The  character  of  this  Eastern  music  may  be  studied  in  Alfarabi's 
<  Elements  of  Music,'  in  the  Escorial  Library  (Oasiri  1, 34).  It  contains, 
besides  the  principles  of  the  art,  the  forms  of  the  Anibic  musical  notes, 
and  prints  of  thirty  different  instruments ;  there  is  also  an  interesting 
coUection  of  the  lives  of  celebrated  Spanish  singers,  both  male  and 
female,  and  of  early  Spanish  airs.  The  Archives  of  the  Cathedrals  of 
Toledo  and  Seville  contain  also  curious  and  numerous  collections  of 
church  music,  mostly  plain-diant  In  the  Colombine  Library,  Seville, 
see  also  Qaspar  de  Aguilar^s  '  Arte  de  Principios  de  Canto  Ellano  en 
EspaSoL'  With  the  exception  of  a  few  good  composers  of  sacred  music, 
there  is  little  here  that  will  interest  the  musio-coUector.  We  might 
mention  several  collections  of  Yillandcoe,  sung  in  churches  at  Christmas 
time,  as  early' as  the  16th  century,  the  words  of  which  teem  with  piety  : 
— See,  for  example,  'Villancicos  y  Coplas  curiosas,'  by  Francisco  de 
Avila,  AlcaU,  1606,  one  of  which  begins — 

O  que  bien  aoe  baiU  GU 
Vkado  al  udo  eativ  Im  piOas  I 

The  Moors  had  diffiBrent  moods  or  harmonic  phrases  which  they  called 
rooti  (ouasohl);  that  called  doughi^  was  applied  to  sorrowful  sulgeots  to 
which  the  Spanish  canas  (^aunia  of  the  Moors,  a  song)  belongs,  which 


Izzzyi  GENERAL  INVORICATION. 

terminates  with  an  Ay !  lah^c  expieesed  love,  and  its  malaM  partida» 
They  are  said  to  have  deriyed  this  system  from  the  Peisians.  There  was 
little  variety,  and  really,  as  they  themselves  defined  it,  their  mosio  was 
*  Dm  el  edwar/  the  sdoice  of  ardei.  La  Borde's  '  Essai  sor  la  Mnsiqae 
Andenne  et  Modeme,'  vol  L  pp.  177-182  ;  and  Villoteaa's '  Essai  sor  la 
Mnsiqae  des  Arabes'  in  his  work  on  Egypt,  will  give  further  particulars. 

Zarxuelas,  or  0p6»B  Oomiqnesy  have  been  recently  introduced  in  the 
Spanish  theatre,  and  meet  with  &vour.  The  opens  are  mostly  imita- 
tions from  Verdi,  Anber,  etc,  and  of  little  value. 

The  national  airs  are  deariy  losing  all  their  primitive  radnees ;  words 
and  music  are  becoming  Italianised  or  Frenchified.  The  best  and  most 
popular  composer  is  Seiior  Iradier. 

The  old  airs  are  full  of  character  (gracia  y  mQ.  A  poetical  vein 
which  runs  throughout  renders  them  very  attractive.  To  appear  in  all 
their  glory,  they  must  be  heard  in  Andalusia  on  a  summet's  evening. 

There  are  also  political  airs  of  great  effect,  sudi  as  the  *  Himno  de 
Biego,'  and  the  wild  Basque  *  Ay,  Ay,  Ay,  mutila  chapelligorriya  I  * 

In  many  diurches  the  Qregorian  or  plain-chant  is  still  in  practice, 
but  the  present  execution  is  far  firom  giving  the  exact  impression  of  the 
grand  effect  that  this  kind  of  music  can  proiduoe — an  efisct  so  admirably 
suited  to  the  age,  and  even  to  the  architecture  of  those  vast,  sombre 
edifices.  Modem  sacred  music  is  seldom  heard  in  churches ;  and  Pale- 
strina,  Bach,  Handel,  and  Mozart  are  unknown  to  Spanish  oiganists. 
Orchestras  are  heard  now  and  then ;  and  pdkas  and  waltses  are  often 
substituted  for  the  austere,  mystic,  inspired  compositions  of  the  mediwal 
monks. 

Festivals. 

The  description  of  the  great  holidays  of  a  people  is  a  safe  handbook  to 
their  character.  In  Spain,  the  dias  deJUtta  are  almost  exdusively  of  a 
religious  character.  Besides  the  gteaXJUtku  de  preeepto^  instituted  by  the 
Santa  Madre  Iglesia  to  gladden  ^e  heart  and  amuse  her  children,  there 
are  dioi  de  mnUm  fixed  upon  in  honour  of  some  saint,  and  varying  accord- 
ing to  hii  or  her  nationality.  Several  saints,  mostly  Spanish,  have  been 
made  patrons  and  tutelars,  patranoi  of  dties,  of  whidi  several  were 
natives,  A^os— vis.  Sanlsidro,  that  of  Madrid  ;  at  Seville,  Stas.  Justa  y 
Rufina ;  at  Valencia,  San  Vicente  Ferrer,  etc  The  smallest  village,  the 
most  out-of-the-way,  insignificant  hamlet,  has  its  particular  saint  lliese 
festivities  take  place  everywhere  on  the  grandest  scale  that  the  means  of 
the  place  can  afford.  The  Ohurdi,  all  powerful  and  wealthy,  exacted 
aaorifioes  from  the  pious  or  the  super^tious  ;  and  thus  its  great  fostivitiesy 
especially  in  Italy  and  Spain,  are  remarkable  for  the  wondrous  display 
of  pageants  over  which  the  sovereign  presides,  and  in  which  the  humblest 


nanvALEk  Izzzvii 

mbjeet  jdns.  FmnctioM  in  the  ohmohMi  prooenioiit  thxoiigk  the  •fereets, 
de^wd  with  floweiB  and  shaded  hj  awtdiigSy  all  served  to  bring  xeligion 
before  the  ejes,  if  not  to  the  hearts,  of  Uie  people.  The  painter,  the 
seolptory  the  poet  eren  contributed  to  augment  the  effect  of  fumewM$. 
Tadb  profited  laigel j  hf  thenL  Qreat  periodical  gatherings  fom  distant 
points  brought  men  who  coold  have  some  sort  of  interchange  of  ideas,  ete^ 
together.  Pilgrimages  to  celebrated  shrines  have  been  to  this  day  great 
Ikfoiirites  with  reUo-loTing  Spaniards.  The  most  fashionable  shrines  in 
the  middle  ages  were  Jerasalem,  Bome,  Loritto,  and  Santiago  de  Ck>m- 
postella.  The  last,  in  the  14th  century,  was  the  resort  of  k^gs,  heioes, 
and  the  pions  rabUe.  In  the  *  Fabliaux,'  it  is  called  *  Le  PMerinage' 
d'Astories,'  and  is  Froissart's '  PMerinage  dn  Baron  St  Jacques,'  el  Santo 
Varon,  They  hare,  howeyer,  considerably  &llen  ott^  and  religious 
fitmeimm  have  become  matters  of  mere  curiosity — ^parish  pride,  toilet- 
displaying,  and  loi  eo/radioif  little  else  than  gossiping  dubs.  We  shall 
briefly  describe  the  most  noteworthy  festivities  in  Uie  year,  both  religious 
and  civiL 

January, — Tb»  Jour^le-rAn  is  not  as  important  here  as  it  is  in 
Frsnce,  Christmar  being  the  great  public  festivity.  On  the  6th,  ere  of 
Twelfth-day,  Dia  de  Beyes  (Jour  des  Bois),  according  to  a  very  old 
traditian,  groups  of  urchins  and  vagabonds  go  about  the  streets  aod  to 
the  gates  of  cities,  escorting  gaJlltgo*  and  oth^  «uiip2et,  who  are,  or  pre- 
tend to  be,  persuaded  that  the  Magi  are  coming,  to  receive  whom  tiiey 
carry  ladders,  torches,  and  drums.  In  the  middle  and  upper  classes, 
islNdbt  and  mote  are  the  £uhian,  and  the  cake  (Za  (drto)  is  duly  eaten ; 
and  the  haita  (bean)  makes  kings  here,  as  elsewhere.  On  the  S3d,  San 
Ddefonso,  patron  of  Toledo,  at  which  city  great  festivities  take  place. 

On  the  17th,  another  popular  fiesta,  Lom  Vudtoi  de  San  Antonio — 
the  patron  of  cattle,  horses,  and  mulea.  It  is  store  especially  a  ICadri- 
lenian  festivity. 

On  the  23d,  Diss  or  Saints^-day  of  the  Prince  of  Asturias.  Levee 
at  the  palace  of  Madrid,  reviews  and  illuminations. 

FAruary, — Osmivid  takes  place  and  continues  during  several  days, 
espedally  on  the  16th  ;  masks  go  about  the  streets,  uUri^uant,  as  Uie 
Franeh  say,  acquaintances,  Mends,  and  enemies,  all  with  good  taste  and 
mmmiar  m  mode  Balls  in  the  theatres.  lOerooles  de  Oenia  (Ash 
Wednesday)  doses  the  gaieties. 

On  the  18th,  Santa  Eulalia,  Tutelar  of  Barcdona.  Qreat  festivities 
in  that  dty. 

On  the  S3d,  Santa  Marta,  Tutelar  of  Aitorga.  Interesting  to  artists 
for  holiday  costumes. 

Jfank — ^The  (hiaruma  (Lent)  is  rdigioudy  observed.  Sermons  in 
the  churches  ;  sacred  music  in  Madrid  and  the  larger  dties. 

On  the  1st,  San  Hisdo,  Tutelar  of  Tarifk    On  the  19th,  St.  Joseph 


Izzxviii  GENERAL  IMTORMATION. 

— a  yeiy  general  name  in  Spain.  OaidSy  bonbons^  and  bonqnetii  art 
sent  to  thoee  whose  dioi  it  is  ;  and  an  omission  is  a  grave  sin  in  the  eyes 
of  the  fair  sex.    On'  that  day,  great  fiesta  at  Badajos. 

On  or  about  the  28d,  F^on  Snndaj — Yisit  chnxches  (High  Mass)  ; 
a  sermon  in  the  open  air  at  Seville ;  Domingo  de  Bamos ;  Palm  Snndaj; 
High  Mass  in  cathedrals ;  blessing  of  palms,  which  remain  suspended 
round  the  balconies  during  the  rest  of  the  year. 

April — Holy  Week  is  the  most  interesting  period  of  the  Festival 
Year.  The  tourist  must  omit  no  fitneianf  as  they  are  all  very  peculiar, 
national,  and  generally  impressive.  Endeavour  to  witness  them  in  a 
large  dtj,  especially  at  Seville ;  if  not,  at  Valencia,  Toledo,  or  Madrid. 
The  period  begins  on  Wednesday  the  lit,  and  lasts  till  Sunday,  called  de 
Psseua  de  Besunecdon.  On  Thursday,  Juevti  8(mto  at  Madrid,  the 
Lavatorio  takes  place,  in  commemoration  of  Christ  washing  the  disciples' 
feet  The  ceremony  takes  place  at  the  palace,  and  after  the  morning 
service  or  o/eioL  Tb»  Queen  goes  through  the  unpleasant  process  of 
washing  the  feet  of  some  dosen  paupers,  who  partake  afterwards  of  a 
royal  limosna.  In  the  afternoon,  the  Queen  goes  in  state  to  make  the 
round  of  the  churches,  vitiiar  la»  ettaeuma.  On  Friday,  Viemes  Santo, 
a  grand  processbn  takes  place  through  the  streets.  The  best  is  at 
Seville,  where  it  is  *  irreverently  but  not  inappropriately'  called  'El 
Oamaval  Divino.'  The  great  peculiarity  of  the  procession  consists  in 
the  *  Pasos,'  or  groups  of  sculptured  effigies,  painted,  and  often  dressed 
up,  intending  to  represent  the  different  passages  of  the  Passion  of  Christ, 
and  borne  on  men's  shoulders. 

These  *  Pasos'  are  the  property  of  religious  associations,  Oo&adias 
(ctMii  fratet)^  several  of  them  still  very  wealthy,  which  sprang  up  about 
the  14th  century.  These  'Pasos,'  many  of  great  intrinsic  value  as 
works  of  art,  began  to  be  introduced  in  processions  in  the  early  portion 
of  the  17th  century.  They  were  originally  borne  on  the  ahoulders  of 
pmitetUi  (nanrenos).  Their  dress — ^long,  white,  or  black  robes,  with 
high  pointed  cape,  and  &ces  covered — is  still  worn  in  remembrance  of 
them — ^namea  surviving  things.  The  Oofradias  vie  with  each  other  in 
producing  the  greatest  effect  at  these  processiona.  The  principal  Oofradia 
at  Seville  is  that  of  '  El  Santo  Entierro,'  of  which  the  Sovereign  is  Her^ 
mano  Mayor,  and  its  Paso  is  the  finest  It  dates  from  the  conquest  of 
Seville  by  SL  Ferdinand.  Visit  the  '  Monumento'  in  the  churdies — a 
gigantic  temple  of  painted  wood-work,  often  that  of  great  artists,  upon 
which  the  Host  is  placed  for  the  Mass  on  Qcod  Friday.  Attend^  also, 
to  the  *  Miserere,'  sung  after  dark  in  the  churches.  At  Valencia  it  is 
particulariy  impressive.  The  Holy  Week  functions  are  believed  to  be 
superior  in  pomp  and  interest  at  Seville  to  those  at  Home. 

About  the  middle  of  the  month  the  animated  *  Feria'  (fur)  takes 
place  at  Seville,  outside  the  Puerta  de  San  Fernanda    It  should  not  be 


FB8TIVAI8.  lyCT> 

<nr«riooked  by  artistBy  and  is  most  peculiar  and  nationaL     On  the  Sth,' 
San  Vicente,  Tutelar  of  Valencia — great  feetiyities  there. 

JVoy. — At  Madrid,  the  political  fdte  dd  Do$  de  Mayo^  and  on  the 
15th  San  Indro,  Tutelar  of  the  metropolis  ;  a  Bomma  takes  place  ontaide 
tiie  town. 

SOth.  Qrand  Fiesta  at  Bonda. 


JwUi — The  yerbenasy  yeladas  (wakes  or  virgils),  of  San  Juan  ;  on  the 
S4th,  of  San  Antonio  de  Badua  ;  14th,  at  Madrid. 

18th.  San  CSriaoo  and  Santa  Paula,  Tutelais  of  Malaga. 

El  Dia  del  Ck>rpu8,  Ck>rpus  Chiisti  Day  (La  Fdte-Dieu),  generally  takes 
place  the  first  Thursday  after  Trinity  Sunday.  It  is  celebrated  with 
great  pomp  in  all  capitals.  The  middle  and  lower  classes  prepare  their 
best  and  new  toUtttm  for  that  day.  Streets  are  covered  with  awnings. 
Flowers  or  fine  grayel  soften  the  hard  parement  for  tiny  feet  to  moTe 
slowly  about,  and  processions  take  place, 

Juljf. — On  the  26th,  Santiago,  Patron  of  Spain.  Tourists  in  the 
North  should  endeavour  to  be  at  Santiago  on  that  day,  or  on  the  8d  at 
Oomiia. 

A^tgvuL — On  the  6th,  Fiesta  at  Oviedo  and  Ayila  ;  on  the  15th,  La 
Ascension,  the  Blessed  Virgin's  Day — Church  functions — ^High  Mass  at 
cathedrals.  On  the  SOth,  Fiestas  of  St  Qreiras  and  San  iEU>que,  near 
Gibraltar. 

iStptem^^— The  Feria  at  Madrid  begins  on  the  Slst  and  lasts  a 
fortnight.  It  is  scarcely  worth  while  mentioning  it,  and  ii  falling  off 
erery  year. 

Oekher. — 6th.  San  Froilan,  Tutelar  of  Leon. 
9th.  Fiesta  at  Jeres. 

Ncioemher, — On  the  1st  and  8d  the  cemeteries  are  visited,  the  tombs 
are  decorated  with  funeral  wreaths. 

December. — 6th.  Fiesta  at  Alicante.  The  last  week.  Fiestas  de 
Navidad,  Christmas.  Chriitmat  Eve,  La  Noche  Buena,  is  more  import- 
ant  than  Christmas-day.  The  churches  are  profusely  lighted  up.  Music 
of  all  descriptions  fills  the  air.  Great  slaughter  of  'pavos*  (turkeys) 
takes  place,  and  there  begins  an  universal  gargantuism  of  popular  merri- 
ment, bonfires,  etc. ;  pastrycook-shops  are  decked  out  with  ribbons, 
flowers,  and  literally  burst  with  maapanes,  jaleas,  and  turron  ;  the  mar- 
ket-places exhibit  pyramids  of  oranges,  melons— the  *  Nacimientos/  or 
pasteboard  representations  of  the  Nativity,  with  terra-cotta  figures, 


XC  GENERAL  INVOEHATIUN. 

eagerly  pmchaaed  by  chfldren,  aod  lighted  up  in  ereiy  housei  rich  ox 
poor.  Sappers  take  place  that  night,  and  at  midnight  mass,  la  Jfua  del 
Oallo. 

Besides  the  aboYe,  there  are  very  carious  and  early  costoms  still  in 
£uhion  in  many  out-of-the-way  cities  and  shrines.  Most  were  established 
in  honour  of  Uie  Viigin  Santisima,  whose  name  changes  according  ta 
the  different  attributes  of  her  intercession^  such  as  Nuestra  S^ora  del 
Pilar,  de  la  O.,  del  Buen  Viege,  La  Blanca,  del  Buen  Oonsejo,  de  las 
Kieres,  de  U  Merced,  del  Milagro,  del  Amparo,  de  la  Oonea,  del  Bemedio, 
de  la  F^  etc  etc,  in  all  upwards  of  thirty.  The  principal  PUgrimoffei 
are — to  Montserrat  (see  BareeUma)  and  Santiago  de  CompostellA  (see 
SantiagOf  etc.).  Oorreaders  will  find  the  following  an  interesting  hook 
upon  such  matters  :  *  Beladones  de  Solemnidades  y  Fiestas  Publicas  de 
EspaSa,'  by  Don  Go.  Alenda ;  Mad.  1866.  It  has  deserved  the  *  premio* 
awarded  by  the  Biblioteca  NadonaL 


Ooetnifinn   National  Breaa. 

The  lower  classes  still  retain  their  picturesque  national  dress.  The 
upper  orders  have  adopted  the  prosaic  chimney-top  hat,  9ambrtro  de  eopa, 
and  other  such-like  abominations  in  the  artisfs  eye.  Ladies,  alas  !  are 
oIbo  fast  divesting  themselves  of  the  graceful  veil,  the  lace  mantilla, 
which  become  their  especial  cast  of  beauty ;  and  the  provindals  alone 
have  been  preserved  from  the  invasion  of  bonnets  and  mantelets.  Each 
province  has  a  peculiar  dress,  the  populations  of  the  south  and  south-east 
approaching  more  to  the  original  type,  the  Moorish  dress — ^thoee  of  the 
eastern  coast  wearing  the  head-gear  of  their  Phrygian  fathers,  etc. 

The  tnantilU  is  worn  especially  in  the  morning  to  go  to  mass  and 
shopping  d  Hendae,  The  white  fine  blond  or  lace  one  is  now  seldom  used, 
and  only  at  the  bull-fight  and  Dia  de  Corpue;  the  one  more  usually  put 
on  ia  made  of  black  lace,  or  of  ram,  satin,  or  silk — the  latest  £uhion  has 
introduced  the  antiquated  manto,  which  is  a  mantilla  with  a  silken  eaeeo, 
and  a  lace  or  blond  \eil  that  just  covers  the  fS^e ;  eoeai,  or  the  coiffure 
k  llmp^ratrice  ii  adopted,  to  which  tiny  side-curls  are  added,  called 
picardias,  caracoles  dt  amor,  etc.,  with  a  stripe  or  two  of  black  velvet,  to 
whichafringe  (/i00)of  passementerie,  with  jet  beads,  is  sometimes  added. 
The  best  places  to  purchase  one  are  at  Madrid,  Margarit  and  Fkbrica  de 
Almagro,  and  at  Seville  and  Barcelona.  The  prices  vary  from  500r.  to 
3000  and  4000r. ;  but  a  good  one  maybe  had  for  ISOOr.  Large  pins 
on  the  sides  fMten  it  to  the  hair.  We  may  be  permitted  to  adviM  our 
£ur  readers  not  to  adopt  it,  unless  they  wish  to  be  stared  at,  for,  how- 
ever gracefully  th^  will  put  it  on  and  wear  it,  the  agvel,  ceje  nt  tau 
pun,  is  sure  to  be  wanting  and  cause  more  attention  than  admiration 


DANCOSa  zci 

U  is  ezdnaiyelj  the  head-gear  worn  in  charchesy  and  an  Illiberitan 
eanon  ordered  ,that  females  should  not  be  allowed  to  enter  churches 
without  haying  their  heads  corered  and  IsM^es  veiled,  *  for  deoeni^'s  sake,* 
and  not  to  distorb  the  male  congregation. 

In  the  male  costume,  the  cajM  (cloak)  is  still  YSiy  much  used ;  but 
without  a  cape  or  esclayina ;  the  quietest  colours  are  worn  by  gentlemen 
— invisible  green,  brown,  black,  with  a  bkek  or  green  ydyet  lining,  fono 
and  vueUaa,  The  usual  price  is  80  to  30  doUtts.  We  likewise  advise 
our  male  readers  to  abstidn  appealing  in  it  Itisawholesdenoe  toknow 
how  to  mnbctane  in  the  folds,  Uiere  being  at  least  serenteen  different  ways. 
Tliere  is  some  difficulty  in  finding  prints,  coloured  or  otherwise,  of  Spanish 
fnstumes  An  Mmn  dm  eoUmnei  0tpagnok  (one  separatelj  for  army  uni- 
fonns)  may  be  purchased  in  Paris  and  Bayonne,  and  is  rcdiable. 

Fans  are  worn  as  much  as  ever,  and  are  used  not  only  for  protection 
from  the  heat,  but  as  a  fonnidable  instrument  of  coquetry.  The  Louis 
XIV.  and  Louis  XY.  fans,  gems  of  miniature  and  workmanship,  are  very 
rarely  met  with  in  Spain,  most  of  the  best  having  been  sold  to  foreign 
amateuEs,  and  the  rest  being  heirlooms.  The  more  common  fan  (o&mtao), 
with  Spanish  subjects,  roughly  painted,  but  quaint  and  full  of  wulewr 
loede^  may  be  purchased  at  Madrid,  Colominai  Oalle  del  Carmen,  and  at 
Serille  and  Barcelona.  BuU-fights,  and  the  recent  African  campaign, 
fdmish  the  subjects.  Fans  with  figures,  landscapes,  eta,  are  called 
flftcmaosi  €qpttiindo$;  the  handle  is  called  dpvMo,  Fans  are  of  all  sizes, 
prices,  and  materials,  Sandal-wood,  studded  with  inlaid  steel  arabesques, 
are  in  great  request  Ivory  and  bone  &ns  from  Ohina,  de  Fil^nnaif  are 
purchased  at  the  'Filipinas  shop,'  in  Madrid,  Oalle  Mayor.  There  is 
s1k>  a  huge,  umbcellarsised,  drcnlar,  1-real  fan,  which  is  exclusively  used 
at  the  buU-fight    Frioes  of  &ns  vary  from  14r,  to  SOOr. 

Spaniih  garters,  l^oi,  are  very  quaint,  with  mottoes  replete  with  gal- 
lantry and  *  Honi  soit  qui  him  j  pense,*  Andalncian  gracia. 


EzoiFT  on  the  stage,  the  laUe  naeimial  has  well-iugh  disappeared,  and 
even  on  the  stsge  it  no  longer  is  the  ra^  com  de  JBtpaiia  which  it  for- 
merly was.  With  the  upper  classes,  the  dances  are  of  course  those  in 
£Mhian  in  the  taUmt  of  Paris,  London,  and  Yieima.  The  traveller  may 
chance  here  and  there  to  meet  with  a  romeriop  a  nmiendOf  or  pie'fUo 
party,  in  the  suburbs  of  cities,  where  the  bolero  and  fandango  are  still 
danced,  but  nUntu  the  qwrkling  gold  lace  and  silver  filigree  costume  and 
motley  loyeL  Spanish  dancers  were  celebrated  in  all  times,  especially  the 
Gbdii  danctng-giris,  whose  grace  and  laittei  oiler  delighted  the  Roman 
volnptoaries,  and  have  been  sung  by  Martial  (E  3|Ep.  63|V.79  ;  vi71)i 


Xcii  OXNSRAL  INVOBHATION. 

bj  JaTeoal  ^3.  2,  y.  168) ;  Strabo,  etc  The  dinces  differ  in  each  pto* 
▼hice.  •  The  danaa  prima  u  peculiar  to  ABturias ;  the/oto  Ara^oHmOf  to 
Aragon  ;  the  muJUmiy  to  Qdlicia ;  la$  haba»  9erde$^  to  Leon,  etc. ;  but 
AncUlnda  is  the  land  of  the  Jtieo  de  JtnM — ^the  caekucka  of  Oadis, 
fOfuMoj  of  Bonda. 

Danoing  was  alwaya  a  national  amnaement  in  Spain ;  and  figures 
belonging  to  yeiy  eailj  danees  of  a  religions,  and  heioio  chaTacter  may 
still  be  seen  in  seyeral  parts  of  the  conntij.  Th^  were  moetlj,  what 
they  now  are,  giaceful  and  TolnptoonSy  as  the  weakening  effect  of  the  son 
on  limbs  prediiposes  the  body  to  be  pliant  and  elastia  They  are  gener- 
al S^7>  especially  in  the  Soath  ;  and  the  fandango  and  cachncha  date 
from  times  prior  to  the  Romans — the  castagnettes  (eatU^ueloi)  being 
mentioned  1^  Jurenal,  who  calls  the  clicking  of  them  'Tertarom 
crepitos.*  The  FyrrhiCy  or  sword-dance,  was  an  Iberian  and  Oeltio 
amnsement,  and  is  now  sometimes  performed  in  the  Basqae  I^vinces. 
In  the  North,  men,  almost  exclnsiyely,  were  the  performers ;  whilst  in 
the  Soath,  dancing  was  a  woman's  department,  as  it  is  still  in  the  East 
As  now  happens,  there  were  few  plays  that  ended  withont  the  halU 
naeional: — 

Iba  la  gonte  oooteata. 

RoxAS,  K£vv*  X614. 

Dances,  composed  expressly  for  the  occasion,  besides  the  nsnal  ones, 
formed  part  of  the  eariiest  performances  of  the  Spanish  theatre ;  and  as 
an  actor  says  in  one  of  Lope  de  Vega's  plays  (*  La  Qran  Saltana *  )— 

TlMre  oe'tr  wu  bora  a  Spanish  wooiaa  jet. 
But  aha  was  bora  to  danca. 

Persons  of  all  ages  and  ranks  shared  in  the  fashion  ;  and  jnst  as  Osrdinal 
Ricbdien  used  to  dance  the  Sarabande  to  ca^vate  the  fur  Anne 
d'Antriche,  so  also  the  Doke  of  Lenna,  being  premier  to  Philip  lY^ 
was  reckoned  the  best  dancer  of  his  day.  The  dances  of  the  17Ui  cen- 
toiy,  laying  aside  the  grsTe  courtly  minuet  and  subsequent  gavotte, 
retained  so  much  of  the  Cancan  style  introduced  in  the  South  by  the 
Oaditan  Bigolboehes,  that  Queyara  declares  that  the  deyil  invented  them 
jJl,  which  Oerrantes  admits,  especially  of  the  Zarabanda  (probably  an 
Almte  Moorish  dance) ;  and  in  1621  government  endeavoured  to  put 
them  down,  and  well  nigh  succeeded.  The  Zarabanda  began  to  be  known 
in  1688  at  Seville,  and  was,  says  Mariana,  invented  by  a  devil  in  woman's 
shape. 

The  gipsies'  dance  has  retained  part  of  the  fireedom  of  those  times,  and 
must  not  be  omitted  by  amateurs.  It  is  a  most  graceful  dislocation  of 
the  human  body. 

Readers  who  may  feel  disposed  to  know  more  on  the  subject  of  ^anish 


THB  TECBATBB.  ZOUl 

dances  aie  veferred  to  the  following  woiks : — ^'Donajree  de  Teraieore,' 
hj  Den  j  Ayfla;  1663.  'Qiffoid'a  Notea'  in  yoL  iL  p.  169  ol 
'  JmrenaTa  Satiiea  ;'  Philadelphia,  1803.  Bapere'e  Notes  on  the  same 
paaage  in  Javenal ;  Lipaia,  1801  ;  8vo.  S.  zL  *  PeUicei^a  Oiigen/  eto.; 
voL  L  in  the  'Diablo  Ocjoelo,'  Tranoo  L,  eto.  'IHoaofia  Antigna 
Pbetica,' b]r  Pindano  ;  1596. 

The  Theatre. 

Thi  Spanish  theatre  in  many  of  its  attribates  and  characteristics  stands 
hj  itselt  It  takes  no  cognisance  of  ancient  ezamploi  for  the  spirit  of 
antiquity  conld  have  little  in  common  with  materials  so  modem,  duristian, 
and  romantia  It  hbnowed  nothing  from  the  drama  of  France  or  of  Italy, 
for  it  was  in  advance  of  both  whm  its  final  character  was  not  only  de- 
Tebped  bat  settled.  And  as  for  England,  though  Shakspeaie  and  Lope 
were  contemporaries,  and  there  are  points  of  resemblance  between  them, 
which  it  is  pleasant  to  trace  and  difficolt  to  explain,  still  they  and  their 
schools,  ondonbtedly,  had  not  the  least  influence  on  each  other.  The 
Spanish  drama  is,  ^erefbre,  entirely  national  Many  of  ita  best  snljeots 
are  taken  from  the  chronidee  and  traditions  IWmnifty  to  the  audience  that 
listened  to  them,  and  its  preralent  Tersification  reminded  the  hearers,  by 
its  sweetness  and  power,  of  what  had  so  often  mored  their*hearts  in  the 
eadiest  outpourings  of  the  national  genius.  With  all  its  fSMilts,  this  old 
Spanish  dxima,  founded  on  the  great  traits  of  the  national  diaraoter, 
maintained  itself  in  the  popular  fiiYOur  as  long  as  that  character  existed 
in  its  original  attributes;  and  even  now  it  remains  one  of  the  most 
striking  and  one  of  the  most  interesting  portions  of  modem  literature. 
(Ticknor^s  '  Histoiy  of  Spanish  Literature,*  toL  ii  chap.  xxyL)  The  drama 
is  the  mirror  of  a  nation's  diameter,  and  the  best  handbook  to  the  manners 
and  customs  of  a  period  is  the  lecture  of  its  dramatic  literature  at  that 
time.  As  over  all  manifestations  of  the  popular  mind,  so  oyer  the  spirit 
of  the  drama,  the  Ghurch  stood  sentinel,  watdted  ita  progicas  with  jealousy, 
and,  unable  to  confine  it  within  the  narrow  religious  channel,  declared 
open  war  against  it,  yiaiting  those  who  attended  lopicaentations  with 
ezeommunieatkm,  denying  Christian  burial  to  actors  (the  first  time  by 
67th  canon  of  tlM  lUiberian  OoundQ,  not  allowing  them  to  many,  etc, 
a  reminisoenoe  of  the  Boman  contempt  for  histriona.  The  earliest  form 
of  the  drama  was  therefore  the  religious  representations  of  scriptural 
erenta — the  Mysteries  (wuitmo9),  whidi  were  in  Duhion  till  the  time  of 
Phil^  n.  The  theatres  were  dosed  oftentimes  for  years  through  ecdesi- 
astical  influence,  and  then  re-opened  by  the  caprice  of  an  amateur  monarch, 
or  the  impulse  of  the  growing  popularity  that  they  were  daily  obtaining. 
The  reUgkms  dramas,  many  of  them  yery  gross  and  licentious,  were  also 
aet^  in  nunneries  and  monaeteriea.    The  real  founder  of  the  Spanish 


XCIT  OBNERAL  INTOBIIATION. 

dnina  was  Lope  de  Bneda  (1644-67),  who  boldly  abandoned  all  lemini* 
scences  of  the  myttmei  and  stradk  out  a  new  path.  The  theatrieal 
leeoonee  were  those  of  the  most  meagre  character.  A  managei'a  whole 
apparafcoB  was,  according  to  Oenrantes,  contained  in  a  large  sack.  The 
theatre  oonsiBted  of  four  benches  ananged  in  a  sqnaie,  with  boards  laid 
across  them,  and  raised  a  UtUe  from  the  groond.  The  fiunitare  was  an 
old  blanket^  drawn  aside  by  two  cords.  Behind  it  stood  the  mnsidaiis, 
'who  sang  old  ballads  without  a  guitar.*  A  public  square  was  the  site 
chosen  for  the  temporary  erection  of  the  theatre.  The  audiences  were 
collected  around ;  the  performance  took  place  by  daylight ;  and  the  plays 
themselyes  were  colloquies,  with  little  or  no  action,  but  divided  into 
several  scenes,  written  with  spirit,  humour,  and  so  as  to  display  the  Mli 
(sal)  of  the  gramMo^  or  Mmptet  as  they  were  first  called,  on  whose  perform 
mance  the  success  mainly  depended.  Lope  de  Yega  raised,  the  drama  to 
a  higher  sphere  and  placed  it  in  a  wider  range ;  but  the  indefatigable, 
implacable  Church  compelling  him  to  relinqnidi  secular  plays,  he  had 
resort  to  the  Ck>medias  de  Santos,  from  subjecta  found  in  their  lives,  and 
A^Om  Saoramentalea  (a  forensic  term  from  aetuif  a  decree)  or  sacramental 
acts ;  these  religious  plays  used  to  be  performed  in  the  streets  and  squares 
on  great  church  holidays ;  Lope  de  Vega  wrote  400  of  them.  The  period 
when  Madrid  became  the  real  metropolis  of  the  kingdom,  about  1660, 
the  drama  cdmmenced  a  career  of  progress  and  prosperity ;  playhouses 
were  established  under  the  patronage  of  the  nobility,  uid  Lope  de  Vega's 
genius  gave  life  to  them.  To  hii  school  belong  some  of  the  greatest 
dramatic  writers  that  Spain  has  possessed,  such  as  Tirso  de  Molina 
('Burlador  de  Sevilla,*  *  Yeigonzoso  en  Palacio,*  etc.) ;  Quillen  de  Oastro 
CMooedades  del  ad,'  imitated  b;  OomeiUe, '  Le  Cid*);  Qnevara  ('  Mis 
pesa  el  Bey  que  la  Sangre  *) ;  Montalvan  (^  Orf eo,'  f  Amantes  de  Teruel,* 
and  '  Don  Carlos  *) ;  Alarcon  ^  Texedor  de  Segoyia,' '  Yerdad  Sospechosa*), 
etc  Cslderon  de  la  Barca  was,  with  Lope,  the  great  luninaiy  of  the 
Spanish  drama,  and  the  most  national  of  its  writers.  Besides  Autos 
Sacramentales  (  Devocion  de  la  Cruz,'  and  others),  he  wrote  *  Capa  y 
Espada '  comedies  and  purely  heroic  ones  f  Amar  despues  de  la  Mnerte,' 
'  El  Medico  de  su  Hours,'  *  El  Mayor  Monstmo,  los  Zelos,'  etc)  The 
Spanish  drama  reached  the  acme  of  its  prosperity  in  the  reign  of 
Philip  lY.,  from  16S1  to  1666.  The  glorious  sun  thus  rose  from  among 
the  medisBval  darkness  of  the  mistenot,  expanding  gradually,  until  it  set 
magnificently  towards  the  death  of  C^eron,  when  decay  began.  But 
even  then  we  have  such  men  as  Moreto  (^  Desden  con  el  Desden  *), 
Boxes  (^  Del  Bey  abaxo  ninguno,'  etc),  besides  a  host  of  minor  uig$nio$, 
conspicuous  only  like  the  stars,  whose  light  shines  the  more  when  the 
sun  has  set 

In  the  beginning  of  the  18th  century,  just  as  the  French  had  previously 
imitated  the  Spanish  drama,  the  Spaniards  now  strove  to  adopt  the  s^le 


THB  TEEkTBJL  XCV 


cf  the  French  playa.    Comdlle's  *  Giima  *  was  trnnalated,  1713 ;  Bacme't 
<  Athilie*  in  1747|  etc.    Of  this  period  we  may  mention  Moratin  the 
elder  ('  Qtuman  el  Baeno  ^,  Cadahalao  ('  Sancho  Qaicia'},  Iriarte  C  The 
Ql-lned  Mias/  etc),  Moratin  the  younger,  one  of  the  moet  Baceeeafiil  comic 
writera('Si  de  Laa  NifSas;  <  El  OM^,    In  the  present  day  the  drama  haa 
ftUen  Tery  low,  and  the  plays  are  mostly  French  tianalationB.    The  melo- 
drama fiiids  fivonr  with  the  lower  daases ;  and  the  xairaelas,  or  operab 
^cQmiqneSy  are  preferred  to  plays  of  the  old  achooL    We  mnst  except  some 
•original  and  national  anthors,  whose  productions  we  recommend  to  the 
playgoer,  however  much  he  may  feel  *  new '  to  their  peculiar  character  and 
•efilBct — ^ris.  the  Duke  of  Bivas,  whoae  *  Fnena  del  Sino  *  has  become 
Verdf  a  libretto  of  the  opera  *  La  Forza  del  Destino  ;*  Qarda  Qntienei, 
whose  stirring  'Troyador'  is  another  of  Yerdi'a  triumphs;  Rodriguez 
Rubi  f  La  Eaeda  de  la  Fortuna*} ;  Ventura  de  la  Vega  ('  Hombre  de 
Mundo*) ;  Jos^  Zorilla  C  D-  Jnan  Tenorio  *) ;  Luia  IJguilax  {*  Verdades 
Amargas  ^ ;  Haitzembush  f  Amantes  de  T^ruel  ^ ;  and  Breton  de  los 
Herreros  (the  Spanish  Scribe),  etc.    The  vein  of  enthusiasm  that  runs 
through  Spaniards,  their  love   of  romance  and  the  marvellous,  their 
natural  quickness  of  apprehension  and  sense  of  the  ridiculous,  their 
-childish  delight  in  tinsel  and  effect,  all  fit  them  to  succeed  in  the  drama. 
The  play-houses  themselves  naturally  shared  the  late  of  the  drama. 
But  they  have  never  reached  in  Spain,  to  this  day,  the  splice,  commodity, 
and  the  display  of  mechanical  means  employed  to  enhance  the  scenic 
•efleet    It  is  true  that  to  reaort  to  the  latter  was  deemed  contemptible, 
and  the  plays  requiring  them  were  called  *  comedias  de  ruido/  pieces  d 
mackinm,     Madame  D'Aulnay,  who  was  in  Spain  in  1679-80,  mentions 
in  her  amnaing  letters  a  sun  xnade  of  oiled  paper,  actors  quietly  climbing 
ladders,  placed  in  view  of  the  spectators,  to  letich  the  stage.    The  site  of 
the  theatre  waa  a  court-yard,  |ni(io,  or  eirral;  in  front  of  the  stage  were 
benches  for  thoae  who  boug|it  single  tickets ;  the  crowd  stood  in  the  open 
air  and  paid  three  maravedis.    Here  stood  the  noisiest  and  disorderiy 
part  of  the  audience,  called  *  moequeteros '  (moeoon,  a  large  fly),  from  the 
constant  buzzing,  on  whose  approbation  the  success  of  new  plays  always 
•depended  (Alcazar,  Ortographia  Oastellana,  Pellioer,  Origen,  etc).   Behind 
were  the  grades,  *  grees,'  or  rising  seats,  for  the  men  ;  and  the  cazuela, 
literally  *  atew-pan/  exclusively  uaed  by  the  women  of  the  lower  orders, 
and  which  we  have  seen  not  many  years  ago  at  the  Teatro  de  la  Gruz, 
Madrid,  in  all  its  glory.  Above  were  Uie  desvanes  and  aposentos — that  is, 
balconies  and  rooms,  our  modem'boxes,  still  called  in  Spain  the  first  and 
second  floors,  the  rea-de-chauss^    The  lower  ones  were  generally  railed, 
as  all  ground-floor  windows  are  in  Spain,  rejas,  whence  the  present 
French  iSo^ei  griUUt  and  vapour  bath,  haignoirt$.     These  rooms,  belong- 
ing to  houses  placed  round  three  sides  of  the  court-yard,  were  filled  by 
the  Oowt,  and  held  as  an  heirloom  firom  generation  to  generation— «a  it 


j.„^  OSNBRAL  nWOBMATION. 

rfJll  hADDena  at  BaiceloML  The  audience,  were  noisy— U»e  Wwuiff  and 
^i?ne«.^  of  di«»ntent  or  appUu^ ;  ratttej^  Wl^  jnd 
^^  often  angiwtting  the  expwMlon  of  the  former.  The  flrrt  play- 
Sr^w^upToranaAi  in  1600.  The  performance,  took  pkce  by 
SSb^t  «d  w^iSnl  lca,OT  prologue,  followed  by  the  flrrt>or««fo, 
J  «t  of  tito  principal  comedy  or  drama ;  entremeae.  «me  after,  amo«ng. 

Swed  by  another  entremes,  muric,  and  dancing ;  and  the  f^^^^ 
S^Ta  -S^eto  or  farce,  in  which  Spanirfi  actor,  dway.  excdled. 
J^Tof  li  "C^  i»  now  <^ften  the  ca«^  a  t««.  «««««^  te^^ 

last  01  au,  B5  evott  «  -n^'A^  ♦l*^  «.1ani1i<1    Tlufflfl  EetllO  dUv- 


defitneum. 


t^'ZTJS^^^^^  ;;^  celebrated  have  existed  tin  very 
ST^  T^e  cSi  de  hi  Groa  and  Del  Prindpe^hich  were 
SSl~  thfr^ert  of  I«bel  Fame...  in  1743, 1746.  The  «tor^ 
^Zi  "e.  w««Uniiable  interpreter,  of  the  geniu.  of  Lope  «d  Qd- 
S,™  the  name,  of  Figueroa,  Pinedo^  Prado, «  «-«>«*iJj^ 
Sr  flJSert  8ucce« ;  Barbara  Corond,  Mam  de  Cordova,  Bdte«w, 
^^iTSterly,  Mdque.,  Querd.  U  Bite  Luna,  la  Lloiente.  Bodn- 

«""\t8  el'tC^^SS^y  perfom^d  J»  the  Pemm«h^  of  which 
there  were  108  comedies  96  arroeU.,  and  67  dnmuu.  . 

_    .     .  „  - ■       Tt^  1,-rf  ciitiaiie.  on  the  SpM»i»h  »!>«•*»  hare  issoed 

Mlected. 

BallpfllChta. 
>•      1  ,*_*-  «»  nmun  at  which  the  lower  daMe.  are  wen 

Thib  i.  the  n^o"^-^.  f  Sa  wTat  &e  Derby.  We  didl  leave 
indltheipchar«ter,a.^^JWJa«attteU     y  ^^  ^ 

!!!f!f  "^T^o^iS^e^i^for^S^re..  Wed-llonly 
■^^^.f^bSZ  ^Sll  ie  filhion,  that  they  have  lort  few  of 
remark  that  ^'»"-»8«^*L"' J^jjTtonrirta  diould  not  liul  to  we  one 

atleart.    "^^^^  JJ^^^J^I^^I^^    The  •  ««on '  begin. 

the  flrrt  Sunday  •»*' /T^qn,—  j-  .  n,nt«  during  the  height  of  rammer, 

.  ri  .1  tiempo  »2r*S;JSS>^^«  ^»'  ^'^  **  "'•  *"iy 

and  a  wcond  wawm  "JK^ffT"^  noward.  of  £400  at  Madrid  and 
r".^  "^"Tt  ^  iTS  T^T^   rk.  bdl-fighten  are 

^'S***  Ilf!  iiL^XTlK  .''mw-W.'  of  the  art,  men  of  great 
SiJ^q^yc'to  ^"^  p^eence  of  mind ;  they  riw  fmm 


BULL-FIGHia  XCVU 

Uie  lower  dtm,  withoat  passing  by  that  of  picadores,  and  follow  the 
especial  rules  laid  down  bj  some  great  master,  or  found  a  new  school 
themselves.  *  Aficionados*  (amateurs),  alone  can  see  the  differences  be- 
tween the  tuertei,  Tlie  most  celebrated  maesttos  have  been  Mcntm, 
BomnVf  CdntUdOf  Pepe  lUOf  El  CkidoMrc  The  present  ones  are  paid 
from  SOOQr.  to  600(>r.  for  each  coniday  and  there  are  always  two  at  each 
iimdon,  besides  a  *  sobresaliente,'  in  case  of  accidents.  The  second  class, 
the  B<tnderiUtro9^  from  handeriUOf  a  small  flag,  or  barbed  dart,  are  paid 
lOOOr.  to  ISOQr.  each  oorrida.  They  reqnire  swiftness  of  foot  and  great 
dexterity.  The  third  class  are  the  PfocKC9f«t,  from  piifls,  a  knee.  They 
receiye  2000r.  They  ride  jaded  Bosinante-hacks,  in  lieu  of  the  noble 
steeds  of  yore,  and  scarcely  defend  them  against  Uie  'embestida'  of  the 
bnU.  They  are  rather  looked  down  upon,  as  a  set  of  drunkards  and 
' holgasanes.'  The  'Ohnlos'  and  'Capas'  fonn  the^  fourth  dassL  They 
are  picked  men,  as  their  business  requires  great  activity — '  ojo  y  condi- 
ckm.'  They  are  pud  from  |16  to  |20  (300r.  to  40Qr.)  The  spectacle 
is  a  drama  in  three  acts.  First,  after  a  shrill  trumpet  has  announced 
the  beginning,  the  Toril  door  is  opened,  and  the  wretched  beast  rushes 
into  the  arena,  deooiated  with  the  bri^t-ribboned  mMku  The  picadores 
advance,  each  in  turn,  and  attack,  or  rather  receive  the  bull's  attack. 
After  a  few  varm  have  been  split,  and  several  tumbles  duly  taken  place, 
the  banderillos,  at  the  sound  of  another  trumpet,  come  in  for  their  share, 
and  dart  their  arrows  about  the  bull's  gory  neck.  Sometimes,  when  the 
NfiAo  is  phlegmatic,  these  darts  are  provided  with  ciaokeis,  which  ex- 
plode on  their  being  aflixed,  and  madden  the  animaL  A  few  minutes 
after,  at  the  sound  of  a  trumpet,  the  JStpada  is  seen  advancing  towards 
the  buU,  after  having  pronounced  a  speech  before  the  AitioHdad  presid- 
ing over  the  plasa,  in  which  he  asks,  ^)f«  /»rmd,  penniSBion  to  kili  this 
foe,  and  offers  to  perform  the  $uirte  in  a  way  that  shall  do  honour  to 
'El  pueblo  de  Madrid,  or  el  Se£k>ria'  On  his  left  hand  he  holds  the 
mulda,  a  small  staff  wiUi  a  deep  red  flag  that  serves  as  a  lure,  and  in  his 
right  a  good  Toledan  blade.  This  is  the  stirring  scene— the  JtMf,  the 
d^uement  After  the  bull's  death,  the  caehetero  nts  on  the  prortrate 
foe,  and  removes  all  doubts  by  darting  a  small  sharp-pointed  dagger,  d 
eaektU  into  the  animal's  spine.  A  team  of  mules,  ^y  attired,  drag 
away  the  foredoomed  vateido  (v»  victis  I)  to  the  VMdador  or  dung-heap, 
where  the  flesh  is  sold.  In  an  economical  point  of  view,  bullrfights  may 
be  considered  detrimental  to  agriculture.  During  the  year  1866^  S375 
bulls  were  killed,  a  serious  loss  to  cattle-breeders,  and,  besides,  3661 
horses.  The  sum  they  represent  is  calculated  to  reach  upwards  of 
7,800,000  reals.  475  corridas  took  place ;  the  tickets  sold  ampuntecl 
to  thiTtitftn  millions  of  reals  ;  thus  bull-fights  may  be  said  to  cost  the 
oountiy  some  j£l  20,000  annually.  The  different  ways  of  killing  a  bull, 
of  pladng  banderiUas,  are  called  murtm.  A  whole  especial  vocabulary  is 
in  coostant  use,  and  may  be  soon  acquired.    The  best  works  are  :— 

9 


XCViii  OENKRAL  IMIORMaTION. 

*  Tamomaqnia  Completay'  by  Franco  Monies  ;  Madrid^  1836. 

<  Carta  hittorica  sobie  el  Origen  y  Piogreioa  de  las  Fiestas  de  Toiosy 
by  N.  F.  de  Moratin ;  Msdiid,  1777. 

*  Taoxomaquiay  6  Arte  de  Toiear ;  Madrid,  1804,  por  nn  afidonado. 
Excellent 

Qoya's  caricahurtB  on  the  subject  aie  fiisfe-imtey  as  he  was  most  con- 
versant with  the  matter,  and  patronised  by  the  great  a/eimiada^  Dnchess 
deAlba. 

Alcocer^s  *  Tratado  del  Foego,  eta,  Salamanca,  Portonariis/  iL  l'568y 
examines  them,  along  with  toomaments,  etc.,  in  a  religions  light 


'  Iiotteries. 

Tn  lottery  was  introdnoed  into  Spain  by  Charles  UL,  and  became  a 
great  sonree  of  revenne.  There  were  till  lately  two  lotteries — La  An- 
tigoa,  on  the  French  system,  and  La  Modema;  the  former  was  suppressed 
in  1861  from  fear  of  a  '  combinadon'  between  players  and  the  borean 
derks,  by  which,  had  the  large  prize  come  out,  Uie  treasoiy  would  have 
been  exhausted;  and,  as  it  was,  £20,000  had  been  already  lost  by  Go- 
yemment  in  a  preceding  sorteo  of  La  Modima,  There  are  three  sorteos  a 
month.  The  ticket  costs  from  $10  to  $30.  On  great  holidays,  such  as 
Christinas  Day,  the  tidcet  costs  lOOOr^  and  the  Isige  prise  is  then  of 
200,000  duros,  about  £40,000,  beddes  several  minor  prises,  the  number 
of  tickets  being  then  of  26,000  to  30,000.  The  maximnm  premio  here- 
tofore has  been  of  1,020,000  francs.  It  has  been  calculated  that  of  late 
years  1100  persons  who  had  got  prises  have  become  landed  proprietors. 
Be  this  as  it  may,  it  is  l^al  gambling — ^fevers  the  peasant  and  workman's 
head  with  dreams,  and  empties  his  larder  of  realities.  It  is  immoral,  and 
will  some  day  be  suppressed.  The  net  produce  to  the  State  in  1861  was 
37,243,230r.  The  winning  tidcets  that  have  never  been  claimed 
amounted  in  1860  to  l,007,502r.    There  is  a  *  Manual  dd  Lotero,'  etc 


Sport 

Spaih  is  eminently  a  countiy  of  the  rod  and  the  gun.  Spaniards  have 
been  always  great  sportsmen  (eoModorei^^  first-rate  diots  owing  to  the 
deamess  of  the  landscape  that  allows  all  distant  objects  to  be  so  much 
rdieved,  end  the  constant  guerilla  warfare,  that  second  nature  of  the 
Iberian,  who,  come  what  may,  rule  who  will,  is  always  *  de  la  opoddon.* 
From  the  cardess  way  in  which  game  is  preserved,  and  its  wild- 
ness,  the  qportsman  has  to  exert  himself  in  seaidi  of  it,  and  not  wdt  till 
it  meets  him,  as  in  the  fashionable  slaughter-covers  of  ESngland  and 
France. 


SPORT.  XOIX 

The  imbbit  (can^o)  it  abtindaiit  Indeed,  Bome  tnioe  the  origin  of 
the  name  of  Spun,  Hinpenia,  to  the  Hebrew  MpAon,  a  rabbit  Hares 
(jMrm),  red  and  wldte  lagged  partridges  (ptrdices),  moltiplj  with  asto- 
nishing prolification ;  the  codomit  (qnai^,  €Umuirai  (larks — ^taken  with  the 
ttp^fmeUf  or  mirror),  are  most  plentiful  There  is  eon  mayor,  such  as 
wild  boars  (jtnaliei),  deer  (venadoi) ;  and  coMa  mtnotf  such  as  Uie  minor 
tribes  of  the  partridge,  the  rabbit,  imd  hare.  The  shooting-season  begins 
in  September.  There  is  excellent  earn  d$  pom,  birds  of  passage,  in  Sep- 
tember, October,  and  November,  of  cocftnucet ,  and  ^alWiuku  (sand-piper), 
and  ckoekat  (woodcocks),  about  Tsrifa,  Gibndtar,  the  bsldios  of  Andaluda, 
whose  thick  brushwood  affords  good  cover,  and  the  newly-ploughed 
campos  of  Osstile.  In  November,  winter  shooting  begins,  and,  becddes 
galllnetas,  bustards,  snipe  {offaehadiMa)  (whence, '  haoer  la  agachadiat,'  to 
stoop  down  and  conceal  one's-self),  €mmrei  (wild  geese),  wild  duck  (paioi)^ 
of  iJl  sorts  abound  in  shoals  in  the  marshes  (mariimcu)  and  lagoons 
(jU^wuEi)  of  Albnfera,  near  Valencia,  of  Alicante;  and,  near  Qibndtar, 
of  TkivOla,  Betin,  Handar,  OMavic|ja,  etc. ;  where  8000  to  10,000  head 
can  be  brought  down  bj  four  or  five  guns  in  one  month,  saj  December. 
There  is  most  excellent  wild-boar  himting,  on  foot  with  ojeadares  (or 
battue),  and  3akueio$  dogs,  in  Siena  Morena,  Siena  de  Yaldecabras,  and 
that  of  Cuenca.  In  the  Montes  de  Toledo,  the  hospitable  Nimrod,  lord 
of  a  great  portion  of  its  best  districts,  the  Marqu^  de  Malpioa,  has  battues 
that  often  result  in  the  death  of  several  bead  of  wild-boar.  In  Asturias, 
another  nobleman,  the  Maiqute  de  CSsmposagrado,  has  capital  sport  with 
bears,  wolves,  etc. '  Javatos,  deer,  and  stags  abound  in  the  Siena  Morena. 
In  SieRm  Berm^a,  besides  these,  there  are  multitudes  of  cortoi  (roe-deer), 
cabroM  montetoif  wi\d  goat  f  La  cabra  siempre  tira  al  tnonfe)^  like  the 
chamois  @bex).  The  Oonde  de  Luque  posseeses  whole  districts  where 
thej  are  found,  which  are  situated  between  Estepona  and  Marbella. 

On  the  Spanish  side  of  the  Pyrenees,  another  sort  of  wild  goat,  the 
rupncabrOf  also  called  cabra  momJtma  (the  French  hwqvuOin^  buck),  and 
the  iard  vA  bears  in  winter  afford  esLcellent  sport,  now  so  rare  in  the 
French  Pjrenees. 

There  is  likewise  some  firat-rate  fishing,  and  salmon  abounds  in  the 
N.  and  N.W.  coasts  of  Spain.  Trout  is  equally  plentiful  in  the  rapid 
OTstalline  rivers  in  the  Pyrenees,  Gallicia,  and  Asturias.  Near  Madrid 
the  angler  will  do  well  to  visit  the  country  about  Avilla,  Plasencia,  and 
Cuenca,  which  also  afford  excellent  localities.  The  Spanish  Mediterranean 
coast  is  well  provided  with  fish,  such  as  the  delicious  boquerones  of 
Malaga,  mijoles,  and  planosrayas.  The  Guadalquivir  containa  several 
good  species.     There  are  excellent  oysters  at  el  Padron  (Gallicia). 

TMkle,  books,  rods,  and  flies  are  not  to  be  obtained  in  Spain,  where 
fly-fishing  is  not  practised. 


^  QBNKRAL  INFORMATION. 

Cigars  and  Tobaooo. 

A  Spanish  satiiist  has  said  that  real  progrest  will  not  begin  in  Spain 
until  a  decree  comes  ont  prohibiting  the  ose  of  cloaks^  knives,  and 
dgarettea.    *  YamoB  d  echar  nn  pnro  *  is  woxse  than  twenty  irtu^^  for 
the  wine  ends  by  being  drained,  bat  the  pnro  never  ends.    A  pnro,  nay, 
a  humble  pita,  or  paper  cigar,  goes  a  groat  length  here.    It  serves  as  a 
letter  of  introduction,  a  shaking  of  the  hands — ^'un  dgairo  fidt  des  amis 
et  rapproche  des  i>n«A»«i«-'    A  Spaniard  smokes  always  and  everywhero  ; 
when  he  is  shaving,  at  meals,  in  the  Paseo,  the  couloirs  of  the  Opera- 
house,  at  the  bull-fight,  etc.    It  often  is  a  substitute  for  meat  and  the 
'copa'  of  the  poor  man,  and  is  always  the  wealthier  man's  dessert 
Towards  the  middle  of  the  16th  century  Spain  and  Portugal  received  the 
first  samples  of  tobacco  from  America.    The  Spaniards  called  it  tabaco, 
from  the  idand  of  Tobago,  one  of  the  Antilles,  near  the  coast  of  CSahicaa. 
Monsieur  de  Nicot,  French  ambassador  at  Lisbon  (1660),  sent  some  leaves 
of  it  to  Catherine  of  Medici,  who  took  a  liking  to  it,  using  it  as  snu£^ 
and  the  frsMon  began  for  ladies  to  take  snn£^  thanks  to  which  we  aro 
now  in  poesesdon  of  whole  collections  of  exquisite  miniatures  and 
.chiselling  with  which  snuff-boxes  wero  ornamented.    A  reaction, how- 
ever, afterwards  ensued ;  and  although  Molito  said,  *  quoi  que  puisse 
diro  Aristote  ^  toute  la  phUosophie,  il  nY  a  rien  d'^gal  au  tabac,'  Fymch 
doctors  of  his  day  wrote  against  it,  especially  Fagon.    Pope  Urban  Vlli. 
(1624)  excommunicated  those  who  took  snufF  in  churches.    'Sultan 
Amurat  lY.  had  smokers  condemned  to  death,  and  snufP-takers  had  their 
noses,  as  being  the  corpi  de  dilit,  cut  oft    In  1661,  the  Senate  of  Berne 
published  a  Decalogue,  in  which  smoking  was  announced  as  prohibited 
by  Qod.    In  1603,  James  L  of  England  wrote  his  pamphlet  against 
smoldng,  calling  it  a  habit,  *  disgusting  to  the  sight,  repulsive  to  the 
smell,  dangerous  to  the  brain,  unwholesome  for  the  chest,'  etc.,  and  his 
proclamations  against  it  wero  couched  in  very  severe  terms.     Br. 
Almiron  Zayas  wrote,  in  1623,  a  book  (see  below)  on  the  abuses  and 
bad  consequences  of  smoldng  and  taking  snuff,  and  Dr.  Arias  another. 
But  the  use  continued  and  has  become  very  general 

Children  of  five  and  six  years  old  are  seen  smoking  in  Spain.  There 
aro  men  who  smoke  ten  to  fourteen  jntroe  Srday .  Epileptic  fits,  consump- 
tion, dyspepsia,  and  nervous  affections,  are  the  more  usual  effects  attending 
WffflwwK  Dr;  Ayo  (1645)  mentions  it  as  an  excellent  medicine,  a 
liqueur  being  extracted  from  it  called  *  miszela.*  Chilblains  are  cured,  he 
says,  by  rubbing  them  with  dry  tobacco-leaves,  and  then  washed  with 

warm  brine. 

Tobacco  is  a  monopoly  of  the  State,  and  the  privilege  is  frzmed  out 
to  contractors,  its  cultivation  being  prohibited  in  Spain,  where  it  succeeds 
admirably.    This  was  done  with  a  view  to  benefit  the  Habana  1    In  1861, 


aaABs  Ain>  lOBAooa  ct 

the  eoBurompdon  of  tobaceo,  cigan,  cigaietteB,  nia£^  amounted  to  upwards 
of  iixteeii  milliona  of  pouiiids,  the  yalne  of  which  was  306  milliiw  of 
reals.  In  1860  nearly  seven  millions  of  cigars  were  consumed  in  Spain. 
The  rate  per  inhabitant  is  0*226  cigar.  OonnoisBeurs  will  do  weU  to 
remember  the  subjoined  obsenrations.  There  are  home-made  cigars — 
that  isy  leaves  imported  hj  Government  contractors  from  the  United 
States  (Kentucky,  Maryland,  etc.)  They  are  sold  in  the  Qoveinment 
ettoiMof ,  tobaooonisti^  shops,  at  high  prices,  and  are  of  inferior  quali^. 

Good  Habana  cigars  are  an  artide  seldom  met  with  in  the  country 
that  rules  the  island  of  Cuba.  They  are  sometimes  to  be  found  at 
restaurants  or  clubs.  The  surest  way  is  to  write  for  them  to  Cuba,  or 
purchase  them  at  the  Cadis  Cnstom-House.  IfJd — ^Boxes  sent  firam 
Cuba  to  parties  are  often  changed  at  the  Custom-House.  The  best  dgais 
in  the  world  are  sent  to  London,  New  York,  and  St  Petersburg.  Impo- 
sition, not  always  to  be  detected  by  connoisseurs,  takes  place  in  tius 
trade.  Thus  the  Crtjpo,  or  inside,  is  often  of  inferior  quality,  whilst  the 
ct^fOf  or  external  lealf  is  of  the  very  best  sort  Agpun,  such  poor 
rosterials  as  Holandilla,  made  at  Yitoria,  bum  snow-white  ashes,  which 
is  effected  by  means  of  potash  and  soda.  A  false  aroma  can  also  be 
communicated  by  means  of  steeping  the  leaves  in  opium  (that  is  a  general 
praetioe  with  most  cigars),  or  with  vamlle.  The  requirites  for  a  first-rate 
dgar  are :  that  it  should  bum  by  itself  when  lighted  without  going  out 
for  some  time — that  the  ashes  be  whitish-grey,  without  thick  gndns,  and 
leaving  but  a  £dnt  ring  round  the  burning  ends — that  the  smoke  should 
ascend  freely — that  the  taste  should  be  agreeable  to  the  palate,  soft,  and 
notadd.  The  colour  of  the  dgar  generally  indicates  the  degree  of  strength 
— 'Colorado  daro,  oscuro.'  The  strength  of  a  dgv^lBO  denotes  the  flavour, 
and  when  proceeding  from  a  good  manu&oturer  the  stronger  are  always 
the  best  The  names,  like  those  of  Bordeaux  wines,  distinguish  the  myoi 
that  produce  very  diwrimilar  ifeeds.  The  Vudta  de  Abijo  is  genendly 
the  best  district  There  are  0482  vegas,  or  tobacco-plantations,  The 
prindpal  tjpes  for  sites  and  shapes  are :  Imperiales,  Prensados,  Begalia, 
half-Begalia,  lVabuoo»damas ;  the  extremer  being  purones  of  20  centi- 
metres long,  the  smallest  of  6  oentim4tres.  The  best  Fabricas  at  the 
Habana  are :  Partagas,  CabaSas,  La  India,  and  La  Espafiola.  The  prices,  in 
Spain,  vary  from  3  duros  to  26  duros  the  hundred.  Average  nall^  good 
dgais  cannot  be  had  under  8  dollars.  Let  them  not  be  too  dry,  as  the  aroma 
then  is  gone ;  nor  too  wet,  or  new,  as  they  are  more  difficult  to  smoke. 

Pi^MT  ei^mt  (ci^itHUoi)  are  made  with  pieado  (chopped)  tobaooo- 
leaves,  from  the  Habana  or  United  States,  and  called,  according  to  its 
sort,  superior,  suave,  or  entrefuertes,  and  sold  in  agetillas,  already 
made,  lliose  who  prefer  smoking  them  wiU  purchase  pi^  de  Alcoy, 
and  avoid  spurious,  very  unwholesome  prepared  paper.  There  are  also 
pt^aioif  or  cigarettes,  made  with  Guatemala  Indian  com,  or  the  xiee 
paper.  Filippinos  are  an  inferior  produce,  and  Spanish  rap^  snuff  is  sol 
worth  the  Vkhb  Cioetk. 


CU  GBNBRAL  INFOBMATION. 


SwoBD& — Spanish  steel  has  been  always  celebrated,  and  the  mines  that 
prodace  now  the  finest  ore  weie  originallj  worked  by  the  Romans  and 
Qoths.  Tlie  best  swordswere madeabout the  14th9  ISth^and  16th centuries. 
The  Zaragozay  Toledo,  and  Valencia  swordmakeis,  etpaderoi^  were  the 
most  oelebvated,  and  niied  especial  marks,  such  as  d  perrUlo,  a  miniature 
dog,  placed  bj  the  Toledan  Moor,  Julian  del  Bei,  upon  all  his  blades  ; 
the  mariUOf  at  Zaragosa,  the  loba  (the  ahe^wolf),  etc  Armourers  (oniMroi) 
formed  a  guild,  but  worked  separately,  and  concealed  from  each  other 
the  secrets  for  tempering,  etc,  which  they  employed  to  make  those  master- 
pieces so  remarkable  for  the  chiselling  and  damascene  ornament  introduced 
by  the  Moors.  The  principal  swordmakers  at  Toledo  were :  Nicolas 
OrduSo,  Juan  Martines,  Antonio  Ruix,  Dionisio  Corrientes.  Those  of 
Zaragoza  were  also  held  in  great  repute.  A  sword  is  called  espada  (^waia) ; 
the  blade  is  la  knffa ;  the  sheath,  la  votna;  the  handle,  puiko  vod, porno, 
mJbUf  t^e  modem  curved  cavalry  sword.  The  introduction  of  firearms 
dealt  the  first  blow  to  sword-manufacture  in  Spain,  and  those  now  made 
at  Toledo,  although  good  weapons  still,  are  no  longer  works  of  art  On 
the  whole,  the  old  blades,  '  Toledo's  trusty,'  a  '  soldier^s  dream,'  which 
Othello  *  kept  in  his  chamber,'  were  unequalled  save  in  the  East,  but  for 
form  and  design  they  were  inferior  to  the  Milanese  and  Florentines.  All 
the  celebrated  swords  of  heroes  had  names,  as  well  in  France  and  Italy 
as  in  Spain:  *  La  Durandal '  and  *  La  Oolada,'  of  the  Gid,  etc.  The  best 
examples  of  Spanish  swords  are  collected  in  the  Madrid  Armaria.  The 
Artileiy  Museo,  the  Armouries  of  the  Dukes  de  Medinaceliy  Alba,  Feman- 
Nunez,  Osnna,  are  all  very  remarkable,  as  much  for  the  intrinsic  value 
as  for  U&e  historical  traditions  attached  to  them.  That  formed  by  n^TwliTiAl 
Mendoza  at  Qaudaligara  was  one  of  the  finest  in  Europe ;  4000  men 
and  4000  horses  could  be  armed  with  its  contents.  Some  war-horse 
mmuet  cost  6000  ducats ;  it  was  sold  and  partly  stolen. 

Daggen. — ^In  the  16th  and  1 7th  centuries  duels  took  place  with  the 
long  rapier  in  one  hand,  and  the  long  hroqud,  or  dagger,  with  caaoleta 
hilt,  in  the  other.  The  combat  began  with  the  former,  and  the  thrusts 
were  parried  with  the  hroqud,  which  served  especially  to  jffiuA  the  fidlen 
foe,,  and  was  called  in  consequence  wdmnm^  the  French  eoup  d$  grde€. 
Hie  broquel  was  subsequently  changed  for  the  Italian  poignard,  pufkd, 
and  became  the  favourite  weapon  of  the  lower  orders,  who  were  not 
allowed  the  use  of  rapiers.  La  fktpqfa,  or  euekiUoy  often  as  long  as  a 
conunon  sword,  settles  at  once  all  differences  of  opinion,  blood  being 
thou^t  to  wipe  off  any. petty  rancour.  It  is  used  very  firequently,  and 
has  become  an  art  in  which  the  bant$ro9  are  proficient  A  banttero 
(from  baraio,  cheap)  lives  by  his  knife.  He  frequents  gambling  drclea, 
and  receives  some  coins  from  the  oowed-down  players  whom  he  haa 
threatened  to  disturb  if  they  should  not  grant  his  boon.    This  is  called 


OOIN&  OUl 

*  oobiar  el  YmnXo,  to  get  change.  In  some  casen,  one  of  the  challenged 
parties  geli  up  and  lefnsee  to  paj;  upon  which  the  champion  fights. 
Death  often  ensneSy  as  the  stomach  is  aimed  at  Those  cnrions  to  leam 
more  particnlars  xdmj  consult  *  Mannal  del  Baratero,'  with  prints.  The 
best  specimens  of  hnlyes  can  be  had  at  Madrid  and  Serille ;  thej  are 
prindpaU J  mannfactored  at  Alhacete ;  they  have  bright  colours  on  the 
bkdei  wiUi  mottoes — a  mnelle  or  catch ;  the  price  varies  from  6r.  to  30r. 

FurearmL — Spamsh  fowling-pieces  now-a-days  are  mannfactored  in 
yeiy  small  qnantitiesy  at  the  manufactories  of  Trnbia  and  Eybar,  together 
witli  indiflferent  field-pieces.  Yet  the  poorest  peasant  has  a  retaeo  of  all 
sites  and  for  all  objects ;  from  the  blunderbuss,  trahucoy  to  the  ucopeia  di 
cofo.  They  are  all  sportsmen  and  excellent  diots.  The  firearms  made 
in  Spain  in  the  reign  of  Philip  lY.  and  V.  were  excellent,  and  among 
the  finest  then  in  the  world ;  and  revolyers  were  more  frequently  made 
than  may  be  generally  belioTed.  The  Madrid  Armaria,  and  Artilery 
Museo,  contain  a  complete  collection  of  examples  of  the  arcabuceros  de 
Madrid,  pittolai  de  ru^da.  The  best  armourer  of  the  present  day  in  Spain 
is  Sr.  Znloaga  at  Madrid. 

The  best  worln  to  consult  on  the  above  subjects  are : — an  extensiTe 
woric  recently  published  in  England,  on  'Arms  and  Armours,*  by  Hewitt 

*  OntdOogo  de  la  Real  Armaria;'  Madrid,  Aguado,  1861  ;  rery  accurate. 
An  important  French  murkf  with  excellent  engravings  by  Sensi  and 
Jubinal ;  the  text  not  always  reliable ;  Paris,  1838.  An  Essay  on  ancient 
Spanish  arms  in  Mohedano's  *  Historia  litersria,'  3d  voL,  eta  The  Arab 
woric  of  Mohammed-Ben-Ali,  El-Erani,  etc  Details  also  may  be  found 
in  Panose  *  Toledo  en  la  Muio,'  Sd  y6L  p.  696,  eta  Qeneral  Oonde  de 
Gleonard's  woric  on  the  History  of  Spanish  Arms, '  Historia  de  Armas  en 
Espafia,'  costs  1066r. 

Ooina. 

Thii  is  not  a  viigin  land  for  numismatics,  as  the  sdenoe  is  old  in  Spaing 
and  there  have  been  always  collectors.  Many  false  coins,  besides  the 
omul  ones,  are  sdd  to  the  unexperienced  traveUer,  especially  on  the  sites 
of  celebrated  ruins.  Hie  collection  at  the  Biblioteca  Nadonal,  Madrid, 
exceeds  160,000  in  number,  and  is  one  of  the  most  important  in  Europe  ; 
especially  as  illustiating  some  otherwise  obscure  facta  of  the  lustoiy  of 
^pain.  It  abounds  in  a  most  complete  and  admirably  classified  moiwftrios 
of  very  early  ^anish,  Boman,  Qothic,  and  Moorish  coins.  There  were 
Inwards  of  a  hundred  cities  in  Boman43pain  that  had  the  privilege  of  a 
ndnt  The  municipii  coins  are  not  very  often  met  with.  The  best 
places  to  make  purchsses  but  caioeai  eniptor/ — are  Granada,  Seville, 
Valencia,  and  M^rida.  There  are  several  fine  private  collections,  but 
one  of  the  finest  that  was  ever  made  in  Spain — that  fonned  by  the 


ay  QENXRAL   INFORILLTION. 

Swedish  Chaig^  d'Affidrea,  Le  GheTtlier  Lorichfl — ^was  dispened  at  hli 
death. 

The  moet  interesting  to  collect  are  the  coins  of  the  Monidpii  and 
OoloniflB  immunea.  Roman  and  lioozish  silyer  coins  are  easil j  obtained ; 
not  so,  gold  onee.  Ooppers,  often  interesting,  can  be  picked  np  for  a  few 
reals  at  tobacconists.' 

The  best  works  on  the  subject  are  : — '  Diilogos  de  las  MedaUas,'  by  Antonio 
Agostin,  Arch,  of  Tarragona.  Tarragona,  1587.  And  another  edition  pob- 
li^ed  l:^  Carballido^  4to,  Madrid,  1744. 

*  Medallas  de  EipiAa,'  by  Father  Henriqne  Florez ;  3  toIs.  folio.  Madrid, 
1757*73  i  with  plates.    One  of  the  most  important  works  erer  published  on  the 

mnanoes  and  Fondfl. 

Tn  l^nancea  of  Spain  have  always  been  the  stombling-block  of  her 
progress  in  the  path  of  civilisation.  When  mistress  of  the  world,  she 
was  poor,  embairasaed,  the  slave  of  expediency.  She  has  had  great 
theoreticiJ  financiers,  who  make  poems  oat  of  budgets ;  and  '  Tart  de 
grouper  lea  chiffres'  is  admirably  practised  here ;  but  the  public  chest  is 
like  Pandora's  box,  and  hope  alone,  in  the  shape  of  paper,  is  the  only 
reality.  '  The  objects  of  a  financier,'  says  Burke,  are  to  secure  an  ample 
revenue ;  to  impose  it  with  judgment  and  equality  ;  to  employ  it  econo- 
mically ;  and  when  necessity  obliges  him  to  make  use  of  credit,  to  secure 
its  foundation  in  that  instance,  and  for  ever,  by  the  deamess  and  candour 
of  his  proceedings,  the  exactness  of  his  calculations,  and  the  solidity  of 
hi*  funds.' 

Reverse  the  above,  and  you  will  obtain  the  best  explanation  possible 
of  the  state,  past  and  presenti'of  Spanish  Financea.  The  Public  Debt 
amounto  to  S0,4 1 2,1 34,068rs.  The  Floating  Debt  (1 867),  to  1 72  million 
reals.    We  refrain  from  saying  more  on  the  subject 


Fiskimfkmktf  ar.  00c.  per  kStoff.    F.  L. 

C0jrtt,  xtsr.  the  kdoc.    F.  L. 

C^aif  tr.  70c  S.,  and  jr.  tfc  per  xooldlogt. 

VektcUt,  coechee,  lendim,^-eMt  brougluunt, 

nr.  S.»  4Soor.  F.  L.  tettchee,  eeeet 
bww^hemi^  jooor.  S.,j6oor.  F.L.  Of  ocher 
deecnptione,  two  or  four  wlieeh,  lesor.  S., 
ssoor.  F.  L. 

JWr,  AUt^vn  hedoL,  sor.  S..  6or.  F.  L. 

C0Umrt,  ou-coloon,  gt.  60c,  kHof.  F.  L. ; 
MtfercoloiBe,  jor.  kilog.  F.  L. 


Dntiee— Tarift 

1.  Tabiff  of  duties  payable  on  entering  Spain  (P.  L.  Foreign,  or  intro- 
duced by  land ;  S.  on  board  Spanish  ships)  : — 

BrmdUt,  C9gme.w. yn  fitra.     F.  L.        Fr9$erptdmmi,^iekU$,9lUL,s''  $^,¥.1^: 

|See_Meoeiifoe  end  WeiglitsX  '''^^ 

r'0mlimm^iien,  of  one  baxrel,  jor.  eech, 

F.  L.;  onuuBcated  (anus  de  k^oA  >Mr.  each, 
F.  L. 

Cmiri  tmmrdi  aad  ochenu  \a.  joe. 
F.U 

/Vi»/f,  plans,  laadacapei,  dcotdMi 
of  a  woritj  tSr.  lulof.  F.  L. 

A  rt^ficif^fltrntrtt  96r.  kilog;  F.  L^ 

/^tfrwr— StelUoos  and   mares    abovo    dM 
heifbc,  U  wmrcm  (7  dedoeX  and 


DUTOS — TABiyr. 


■noalMimtsDad,  So.  mdi,  S.  ud  gSt. 
K  L.;  dkn,  irimwi  ■  BO  knaci  •MvtuMd, 
uot.  S,  ■4(r.  F.I.;  oMiiMd  ud  «aMJiiil 

CJknB,  lb*  tumii,  4irF.  L. 


ypxir.,  inr.  mA,  P.  I.;  ilm  IkU  frie^ 
w  Hd,'^  joc  1^  F.I.:  rnnad^ 
ihI  %b.  of  >*nr^^  MMcfiaf  »  ddt. 


'  An;  isr.  6gc  Idloc-  '■  I^  _       - 

P^mtiai$,  mA.  4er.  P.  L.  and  S.    n* 

S.  ^luiuh  utiolM  inUodnwd  into  YfaM. 


ni^H,  pnUUwd  bc]n«l  ■  dons  dgin. 
IT^Hi,  ia  ikiiii  or  bunk,  ajE.  pw  hKBl 


r.  I^;  mIiIh  mJ  tta  ^^nt  fee  ptr  Ms 
■       Cr^  at—It.  ijt  M  «rf  porMm. 


2jaS" 


3.  AitiolM  that  pv  do^  on  antning  tha  tJnittd  Kingdom  from 


us! 


tm 


OENBRAX  INFORMATION. 


Mon«7— Maasurea  and  Weights. 

MoNiT.— A  Deeree  of  April  16/1848,  and  the  Law  of  J11I7  19, 1849) 
leduoed  the  Spanish  monej  to  the  decimal  B7>teiiL 


Tabu  ov  Spanish  Oonra. 


Gold. 

Sih«r. 

Coppor. 

f 

Dobfeo 
Inbolino 

Few  or 
Duro 

Eacudo 

orMedio 

Dnio 

PotetA 

Modio 

POMte 

Baal 

Modio 
Rool 

Doblo 
IMdoui 

MJmdWA 

Modio 

£i:isl. 

5 

10 

25 

50 

100 

200 

500 

1006 

2000 

4s.2jd. 

2 

5 

10 

20 

40 

ICO 

200 

400 

3S.lid. 

^4 

5 

10 

20 

50 

100 

200 

« 

lod. 

2 

4 

8 

20 

40 

8o| 

Sd. 

2 

4 

10 

20 

40 

21d. 

a 

5 

10 

20 

lid. 

^i 

5 

10 

i^ 

4 

id 

2 

1 

The  r$al  ia  the  hasif  of  the  whole  ^Tstem.  The  coins  that  constitute 
the  Spanish  system  aie :  doblon,  iieudo^  real,  and  dSeima ;  these  aie  the 
onlj  ones  allowed  to  be  used  and  mentioned  in  official  docnmenta  and 
transactions.  The  rest  aie  conent— Tii.  the  gold  ona^  Talae  sixteen 
dnxosy  or  320  leales,  and  the  media  onsL  In  copper,  the  coarto  (34^ 
make  a  peseta),  Talne,  fonnerly,  4  marsTedises ;  the  oduiYO,  worth  2  maia- 
yedises ;  the  coartos  (81  make  one  real)  are  still  nsed 

As  a  general  rale,  the  real  maj  be  taken  for  2id.,  two  reales  for  6d^ 
the  half-dnro  for  2s.  The  lOOr.  piece,  Isabelino,  may  be  likened  to  the 
soyereign.  The  denondnationa  of  To^h<»linft^  escndo,  and  doblon,  are  rarely 
heard :  the  ralne  is  most  commonl j  expressed  in  reales  and  coartoa 
The  duo  in  aoconnts  is  often  marked  |. 


MONST. 


0?U 


BsDOonov  Tabu  ov  Otabsos  nrao  Bbaub. 


• 

1 

Owfios. 

Kciles. 

Maxm^edltet. 

Qautos. 

Redo. 

llfycdim. 

•1 

o 

54, 

4 

o 

9 

s 

M 

1 

o 

so 

6 

5». 

o 

«7. 

o 

59* 

7 

o 

«sl 

o 

too 

It 

•6 

BBDuonov  Tablb  ov  Mabatbdibis  into  Bbalbb. 


u,«„^ 

RcaltiL 

Mn. 

Hmnfdmm. 

RcaltiL 

Mn. 

S 

o 

I 

lOO 

s 

3* 

4© 

I 

6 

900 

M 

•4 

£ 

s 
I 

i6 

•6 

tooo 

•9 

4« 

OOMPARATIYB  YaLUB  OV  SpABIBH  ABD  AmBBKUW  MONBT. 


ooa,  32or.    .  •  $i6uio 

Half-ona,  l6or.    .  .      &5 

One  doblooy  loor.  .      5.4 

One  dmo,  aor.      .  .      l.o 


i.o 


One  dnioi  aor. .    .    . 


Sihfer—<OHtm9ud, 

Spuiiik 

A                     » 

HalMuro,  lor. 

.    .  faso 

One  peseta,  4r. 

.    .    aao 

One  real,  ir.  .  . 

.    •    a5 

C^pptr^^ 

Hair-icid     ^    . 

.    .    aa4 

Dedmade  red 

.    .    ao^ 

GOMPABAXITB  TaBLB  OB  FBBBGH  ABD  SpABIBH  MoBBT. 


R^ 

Gnu. 

GoU^ 

One  nqxileoii,  aofr.     . 

74 

3 

Spiia  fai  grtator  abttBdaaoe  Umb  tho  Spuuih 
dufO»  ftoatho  best  ooiB  tho  txmvelkr  o«0  tmko 

5ffecr— 

villi  Ub  :  ill  Talne  is  lor.,  aad  it  is  called 
a  Napolsoo.  Tho  rest  01  the  Frandi  ooia  is 
not  onrcaL     The  dobloa  (loor.  pieoe)  is 

Ftre-fruic  piece  . 

18 

6 

One-nine  . 

3 

74 

woffth  sjfr.  9fe. ;  the  dnro  is  woith  sfr.  a6c. ; 

Half*fruic  . 

I 

S7 

the  peseta,  tlierafore,  socaewhat  SBore  tina 

Ofpa-^ 

• 

ifr. ;  the  sedio  peseta,  about  see.  (10  soos) : 
the  leal  cutrsspiaods  to  a&93  ciariasi  m 

Fhre  cenrimfi  (one  soa) 

0 

20 

*                  • 

•  •• 

evm 


OKNERAL  INIORMATION. 

*  • 

ToBXOQXjmBmf  Spanish,  Frihoh,  EMOLDHy  and  Ambbioan  Mount. 


Pkbmch. 

AMmtCAHL 

Reel 

CeatTO. 

Fkaao. 

GeotBM> 

£ 

M,      d. 

!•   oean. 

GM^ 

CoroA,  10,000  reb 

220 

40 

60 

30 

2 

^    3, 

11.20 

^•Coroa 

1 10 

20 

30 

15 

I 

3     1 

5.60 

1-5^1  Coroa 

>          • 

44 

8 

12 

6 

0 

9    3 

2.24 

i-ioth  Coroa, 

t          • 

32 

4 

6 

3 

0 

4    7 

1. 12 

Moeda  . 

t          • 

129 

0 

34 

0  . 

I 

7    0 

6.35 

Mda  Moeda  . 

I          • 

64 

50 

17 

0 

0 

13    6 

3.17 

Five  Tottao»  500  rds 

II 

2 

2 

97 

0 

a    4 

a  56 

I  Teston 

2 

28 

0 

58 

0 

0    5 

0.1 1 

^  Tefton,  50  rds    . 

I 

14 

0 

29 

0 

0    2^ 

0.5 

N.B.—Thm  ftv«4anc  piece  is  worth  tot 

OieiS*     AaM  eovtRi|^  H 

worth  490a 

»i«ii. 

MoNNT  Tabli  vob  Bbadt  Rnokonino. 


PKBMCIf.         PDMTUOOMK. 

SrANItH. 

Bngusm. 

AMSaiCAN. 

Fkaao. 

Ceal- 
13 

Mil- 

_ .  •  _ 

Rde. 

BMW- 
doe. 

R«de. 

Gia^ 
avoe. 

1 

1 

$ 

Ceats. 

•  • 

•  • 

22 

•  % 

0 

50 

li 

3| 

•  • 

27 

•  • 

45 

•  • 

1 

•  • 

s4 

5 

•  • 

•  • 
I 

It 

8 

•  • 

•  • 

•  • 

90 

•  ■ 

•  • 

•  • 

2 

8 

4 

•  • 

•  • 

•  • 

'74 

10 

10 

«5 

20 

I 

35 

•  • 

335 

•  • 

6 

•  • 

\ 

25 

I 

4S 

a> 

250 

•  • 

6 

50 

2 

28 

I 

61 

•  • 

270 

•  • 

6 

•  • 

3. 

30 

I 

88 

•  • 

315 

•  • 

7 

•  • 

it 

35 

2 

15 

•  • 

360 

•  • 

8 

•  ■ 

40 

2 

4a 

•  • 

405 

•  • 

9 

•  • 

I0| 

45 

2 

69 

•  • 

4«5 

0 

10 

•  • 

2 

li 

50 

2 

97 

d) 

500 

•  • 

U 

2 

2 

4 

56 

4 

4 

•  • 

668 

•  • 

15 

•  • 

3 

2 

76 

5 

39 

•  • 

890 

0 

20 

•  • 

4 

A 

I 

I 

6 

3 

0 

1000 

•  • 

22 

4 

4 

71 

I 

12 

12 

6 

2  ' 

•  • 

•  • 

44 

8 

9 

3l 

2 

H 

«3 

47 

-2 

225 

0 

60 

•  • 

10 

6| 

2 

5a 

«7 

94 

4 

455 

(w) 

100 

•  • 

21 

I 

5 

4 

The  above  celcahrioni  are  bated  on  the  Spaaidi  Real  aad  Poftogucee  Rei,  and  do  not 

include  tl»«  flactaehoae  of  etchaafe. 


MONEY.  cix 

BUis  of  Saoehange, — Banking, 

The  ezdumge  on  the  prindpel  markets  in  Europe  it  dailj  published 
in  most  Spanish  papezs.  The  'Change  at  par  between  Etpain  and  Eng- 
land is  60d.  46c,  for  a  dnro  (20r.)  The  simplest  rale  to  ascertain  how 
manj  pounds  sterling  will  be  given  in  London  for  Spanish  duros  is  the 
fbllofwing : — ^Mnltiplj  the  number  of  duros  hj  the  'Change,  and  the 
product  will  be  the  quantity  desired,  expressed  in  pence  and  a  fraction ; 

756  duros 
50.30  mte  of  eidumge 

22.680 
3»78o 
3,802.680  pence  and  fractions. 

Which  we  reduce  to  shillings  hj  dividing  the  above  product  hj  12 
(Ifid.  in  Is.)  the  resolt  being  3162s.y  which  again  reduced  to  pounds  by 
dividing  bj  SO,  gives  us  £168  :  8s.  The  same  operations  will  suflEkse  for 
ascertaining  the  value  of  reals  in  ^1  on  London.  The  usual  change 
given  for  a  pound  sterling  is  96r. — ^pico  mas  6  pico  menos.  They  are 
also  drawn  at  three  days.  A  cheque  is  called  wia  letra;  a  draft, 
Ubrtmn;  to  draw,  Uhrar.  The  par  between  France  and  Spain  is  6fr. 
S0ic.  for  one  duro  (80r.)  The  same  role  subsLsts  for  knowing  the  result 
of  'Change  as  shown  above.  IVaveUers  will  do  well  to  provide  them- 
selves on  leaving  England  with  circular  notes,  and  not  letters  of  credit, 
as  they  thus  avoid  paying  commission.  ^  IVavellers  proceeding  out  of  the 
beaten  track  wiU  do  well  to  procure  sinall  letters  of  credit  horn  Spanish 
bankers,  on  those  of  other  sinall  towns,  where  dreular  notes  are  not  so 
much  respected.  Hie  numerous  agency  offices  of  the  Giro  Mutno  Bank 
may  be  also  resorted  to.    Hie  usual  form  of  receipt  is  this  >-^ 

*  He  rectbodo  de  (fiomf  iff  place)  la  cantidad  de  {tk«  $mm  m  Uikn) 
valor  en  cuenta  (sr  valor  por)  tuek  and  wek  an  oiffeeL 

*  Son,  rs.  vft  (mun  in  nmmhen)  (iignaharty  with  a  rubrica. 

NS, — ^A  rabrica — ie.  a  flouriah  or  dash  with  the  pen  under  the  name 
— and  always  the  same,  is  necessary.  Without  it  legal  documents  in  Spain 
are  not  regularly  drawn,  and  these  gandHsUm  are  ol^  most  intricate  and 
long  to  execute ;  all  the  Royal  Decrees  end  with  the  formula : .  *  Esti 
ryJbfioado  de  la  real  mano.'  He  who  *  no  sabe  ni  poner  una  rubrica'  is 
indeed  worse  than  an  *  infelis.*    He  is  '  un  mijadero  de  marca  mayor.' 

Endeavour  to  obtain  no  change  from  bankers  for  dreular  notes,  except 
money^  gold  especially,  as  bank-notes  are  not  easily  changed  in  shops, 
and  aro  not  legal  tenders  as  soon  as  the  bearer  is  out  of  the  province. 
Lideed,  in  Madrid,  the  Banco  de  EspaSa  notes  aro  not  accepted  outside 
the  very  gatea  of  the  capital    English  sovereigns  and  French  Napoleons 


ex 


GENKRAL  IMTORIIATION. 


aie  eaneiit  The  principal  cities  to  change  money  are  Bajonne,  Baroe- 
lonAy  GadiXy  and  Gibxaltan  Hie  LtlUfn  dPIndicatum  that  accompanies 
the  dicolar  .notes  onght  to  be  kept  sepamte  for  greater  security.  Be 
always  piOYided  with  snufll  change,  silyer  and  copper,  and  avoid  Spanish 
bank-notes. 

We  have  pniposely  omitted  pientioning  ihe  coins  pecoliar  to  each 
proyince,  as  tiiey  are  now  extant  but  in  few,  and  are  reiy  rapidly 
disappearing. 

N3. — Forei^  money  can  aUoaye  he  purekaeed  en  better  temu  the 
fitrther  the  eeller  tefrom  the  country  yfhere  the  moiuy  eiradatet^ 


Fbs  French  metrical  decimal  system  has  been  introdnced  by  decree  of 
July  13,  1849,  and  is  the  only  ofieial  one  ;  bat  its  use  has  not  as  y^ 
become  qnite  general,  and  the  yara,  legna,  coartillo,  etc,  are  stiU  pre- 
ferred to  tbe  metro,  kilometro,  litro,  etc. 

Old  Spanieh  meaeuree  etiU  in  hm. — ^The  vara  is  the  base  ;  it  consists 
of  8  piSe  (feet),  each  of  18  jmUyadoe  ^ches),  each  of  18  Imeae^  and  is 
equal  to  836  millimetres,  or  abont  8788  English  feet 

English  Spuitth 

lOO  yaras  make  109  Tsras  and  30  polgadas 

13  feet       „  .        .  13  pi^ 

la  inches   „  .        .  13  polgadas 


OOMPAKATIYB  MSAaUBB  OV  TBI  FrSMGH  M^TBl  AND  ENGLISH  YaBD. 


French 
I  minim^tre  is  equal  to 
I  centimetre        „ 
I  decimetre         „ 
I  m^tie               ,, 

Enfliah 
"03937  inches 

•3937       M 
.      3*937        » 

•     39*371         ..      "d  I  ¥ara  7  polgadas,  74 

cents,  of  a  linea. 

I  d^camkre  (10  m.) 
I  kUomkre         „ 
I  myriam^tre      „ 
A  mhre  u  therefore  about 
myriamhre  abont  6^  miles. 

I '9884  poles 
4*971    fbrlongs 
6*214   miles 
3}  indies  longer  than  an  English  yard,  and  a 

Bbduotion  ov  Yabas  urao  Mkran  ahd  Yabds. 


Vann 

UHrm.          Yanb. 

VaiM. 

Mtoo.            Yards. 

I 

a    . 

0,835  «"^     '9^ 
1,670  aboot  2 

9    .      • 
10    .     . 

7,515  aboot     8 
8,350    „        8| 

3    • 

2,505     ..     3 

20    .     . 

16,700    „       17 

4 

5    < 

3.340     „     3 
4.175     .,     4i 

50  .    . 

100    . 

41.750    »>      42 
83.500    „       84 

6    . 

7 
8    . 

5.010     „     St 
5.845     ..     6 

6,680    „    r 

500  .    . 

1000    . 

417.500    „    420 
835.000     „     840 

MXASUBSa 


Oli 


I  mhtn        tm  I  taiAt  7  ptdgidis,  74  cents,  of  a  Hnou 
I  nullimitre  at  <o  cents,  of  n  lines*  or  hslfJines. 


'I 


Hie  foUowing  is  a  role  to  reduce  all  a&dent  measuzes  into  modern — 
that  ii,  Taiasy  legnas,  eto^  into  metres,  kilom^tzei — vis.  one  Spaniel^ 
lesgoe  it  6  kiL  666  mitres ;  therefore,  to  ascertain  how  many  kilomtossy 
midtiplj  the  6  kiL  666  metres  hj  the  nmnber  of  leagnes  70a  wish  to 
reduce ;  then  separate  the  three  last  numbers  on  the  rij^t  b j  a  comma, 
and  the  remaining  total  forms  the  kilometres,  whilst  the  three  numbers 
•to  the  right' constitute  the  mtees. 

Kiam|Je :  How  manj  kilomtoes  are  there  in  IS  leagues  t 

ka.  m.  I 

5  555  multiplied  by 

12  ksgnesy  pcodnce 

II    IIO  ^ 

55  55 

66  660;  Tis.  66 kiL  660 mkies. 

To  reduce  mtoes  to  Taras,  the  seme  rule  stands  good.  Multiplj  1 
-vara  7  pulg.  74  cents,  of  a  linea  bj  the  number  of  metres  desired.  The 
▼aras  diflfer  oonsiderablj  aocoTding  to  the  prorinces,  and  are  still  in 


JOO 


»» 


^ 


Omquui 

QlttO  fOf  BOwj 

9t§       dtfto 


soo 
too 


»• 
»• 


BahiicMtt    iU 
FottofoMtM    «je 


QBCvO 

ditto 
ditto 


MO  Bosiiib  Yaidt  oqwU 

Tbo 

I  oitad 

loodo 

I 


»» 


»» 


•• 


9 

SpidB 
S 


3opaL  otc. 


The  Spanish  league  (UpM),  of  SO  to  a  degree,  is  of  S0,000  geomet- 
rical feet  (patoi),  equal  to  the  nautical  league  of  3  geogr^»hioal  miles  b  6 
kilomtoes  and  666  mtoss,  about  8*46  English  m.  Tlie  old  Spanish 
league  of  174  to  the  degree  «  neadj  4  Bng^  ul,  often  fiuniliarly 
called  29^iiat2(vyubj  the  guides  and  dloMtMumte  A  statute  English 
mile  a  1760  yds.  «  6S80  ft.  «  69  to  a  degree. 

8%iperfeial  JVMiwm— The  ofBcial  one  is  the  French  hectsre,  equal  to 
10,000  square  mtees,  S*471  teres,  or,  roughly,  S4  seres,  or  thereabouts. 

Hie  fuiega  is  the  usual  Spaidsb  lend  measure.  1^  is  thus  com- 
posed: — 


IS 

I 


M 


I 


•• 


-16 

I 


(S 


■akoi  ait  aad  Oko6e). 


"*-^jaa 


em 


QSNSRAL  INTOBMATION. 


RiDuonoH  or  Sufibvioial  Fahioab  to  FmcTiBiB,' 


'  FaiMgM. 

Hectaiw. 

FaiMgM. 

Hoctaret. 

I      •     •     •     • 

!■•••• 
^         •        •       •        • 

0*6440 
1*2879 
3*2198 

10     .     .     . 

50     .     .     . 

100     .     .     . 

64396 
3a '1978 
64*3956 

N.B.—'Thm  liuMC*  of  GudDa  b  diiierait  from  that  of  iho  othor  pforiaoea.    TIm  vuiada 
gitonny  Tokod,  or  yoluaf  K  tbe  land  that  two  boOocks  caa  ploi^ih  ia  a  daj.    Tbojooraalorthe 
Sooth  of  Fkaaoob  the  ahatto,  etc.,  variea  conakknibly.    Aaaiaaadaisaaauidiaaapairof 
caa  ploof h  ia  a  daj. 


oxen- 


• 

The  aqvaie  oentim^tio  ii  equal  to  *166  sqiuffe  inchet,  or  laiher  lesfr 
than  ^th  of  a  square  incL 

I  mitre  caiT^»  1*196  sq.  yirds,  or  10,000  sq.  oentimkreSi 

A  Spanish  sq.  fbot»  7*746  d^dmkns  d^ncs. 

The  Ttra  cnadrada  »     6  pi^  cnadradat. 

I  pi^  coadimdo        ■■144  pnlgadas  cuadradas. 

I  pnlgada  caadrada«-i44  lineas  cnadradai. 


MlABURIS  or  OAFAOSTIf  WKQBX. 


I  qobtal  ss  4  airobaa 


»» 


•sKhias 
I    „    =16 

t    •• 


s6 

s 


»f 


ft 


IS 


AmbaiL 

KiL  centig.  nuL     1             AnbbaiL 

KO.  ccatif  .  BuL 

1  aiToha  .     .     . 

2  If      •     •     • 

3  »»      •    •    • 

11,502,325 
23.005 

34.507 

5  anobas    .    . 
50     ., 

57,512,000 

115.023 
575.  "6 

Apprazimatd/,  i  kflog.  it  somewhat  more  than  2  libias;  46  kilog.,  100 
libras  (pounds) ;  thegnunme^  15*4340  English  grains;  i  cwt,  alxxit  1 10}  libns. 

I  toodada  (tons)  ■■20  qnintales,  or  920  Idlog.  186  centig. 
5       „  -  4,601  Idlogs. 

10       „  -  9,202     „ 

100       „  -92t"9     I* 

I  Idlog.  is  equal  to  2-2055  U)a.  Elfish;  100  kilog.  to  1*97  cwt ;  looa 
kilpg.  (or  tonnean),  to  19*7  cwt 


Gbais,  oe  DmrMBABOBM.    * 

I  cakb  -  la  hmec» 

I      „     s  12  oekminei  (or  almvdes) 
I        „       s  4  amtUlot 

I       »,      a  8  odiATiUot» 

I  caiitiUo  1.156  litre 

I  cum  660    9, 

ifuMga.  55i.»     ' 

Tbe  hectolitre  «»  i  fentga,  9  odemine%  a  OMatiUot,  486  mSL  of  cuMtillow 
I  Ikie  =  865-tlioiBaiidtbsoraciiaitiUo  '   >' 

I  fuega  K  aboat  14  bosfad    _  .     "* 

5  fiuM^as         —  abo«l  I  <iiiarter  '  '  '^ 


I  knega  o>5550  bectob. 

S     .•  a.  775*      .. 

10     „  5S5o«      .t 


50  fiuiegas  S7-7505  baotol 

100     „  55*5010      »• 

1000     „  .     555.0100      », 


46  pi^  cnbicoe  ■■0*995*096  mil.  cnU 
50        ,9  a*!  mitre  cnbe  and  081*626  mil  cub. 

The  cubic  mMre         1-  35*317  cubic  feet  (English) 
The  cubic  centimHre  -■  0*06100  cubic  inches 
I  decalitre  b  about  an  English  peck,  and  2^  hectolitres  about  I  English  quart 

Liquid  Miaburm. 

«Md)aB  iocAataras(arTolMttor«4UlMrM«ach) 

I       H        ■■  4  coartiUos  (Mklooi  UMd) 


t  H        -4 


Hie  anobft  or  cintaim  =  3*56  English  galloBB,  or  18  lilrea»  13m 
otfitilitreB ;  1  litre  approziiiiaielj  aomewhat  more  than  1  ooartilo— rii. 
1  cnartllloy  8  copaSy  98  oentesimoe  of  a  oopa. 

Hie  litre  s  fths  of  an  English  gallon,  or  8*11  wine  pints,  or  *97  of 
an  English  quart  Hie  arrobe  it  marked  (i.  In  oil  measures :  the 
arroba  oontaina  86  libras,  and  each  4  panillsi.  1  airobe  a  IS  litrsii 
66j»  eentiL 

1  litre  =  1  lib^^  3  panillas,  96  oentesimoe  of  a  panilla. 

Oiif — I  arrobe 12*563  litres. 

2   „ 25*126 

5   m 62*815 

10   , 125-630 

100   „ 1256*300 


»t 
•I 


1  bou  de  viao  or  pipe  ■■  about  no  to  iis  ipBom,    It  will  boCdo  about  s* 
I  ■■rem  mm  t  OMM  (oqmI  to  the  U^t  laarc.  oadi  of  t  diicaiM) 
I  ■vtochaTas^ordracmat 

t  ■■  t  adanoM 

I     •»      V  It  griboa 


OXIV  GBNERAL  INFOBMATION. 

9  Coniiies  =  1.198  gnumnes ;  t  gmuM  a  sS434o  Eai^iah  gi«ii». 

I  ouuco    as  €k»yoo46^  IdlognuBmes. 

5  Buuoos  ss  I.I50S33  $$      t 

I  kOate     ss  4  granot :  I  fiBoo  s  f  pnrtM  d«  gnoo  K  514  Biilligramiiie.. 

5  kilatas  ■>  s.o«7  gnuBOBca. 

s  libim  madidnti  k  la  onas 

I     „    a8dncaMi,o 

»       •*      » 3 

I        M       »a4granoa 
I  Ubrm  medidBal     ....       a34slnlog. 

5  •»  *»7*5     »» 

so  ,,  ....       3*45>     »• 

Tba  mauM  it  s  is.44  BogfiA  gnina. 
a|  FVeaidi  grunit  ait  equiu  10  a  Engtitli  grains. 

s  fonaiada  da  arauao    a  s.si8  cubic  mkrtt.    Tba  lattra  »  a  toiialadw 
%  lonalada  (ibip^         k  ao  cwt  or  i  ton. 


GUIDE    TO    SPAIN. 


alcalA  (DE  henAre8) 

(birthflacb  or  cemyahtes). 


ProTinoe  of  Madrid, — Popnlatloii, 
8746,  dioceM  of  Toledo. 

BoatM.~l8t,  From  Madrid,  bjnil, 
21(  mfles,  ]J  hr.  bj  mtil  tndn,  ftbont 
1 1^.  bj  dir.  tr. ;  ftres,  litol.,  16r.  76a ; 
2d  cL,  llr.  26c  It  is  on  the  direct  R 
line  from  Zangoxa  to  Madrid,  its  laat 
laigesttown.  The  beat  plan  if  to  Tisit  it 
whilst  at  Madrid  aodretom  the  aamedaj, 
to  aroid  discomfort  at  the  posads  (inn). 
Beaides,  there  isbnt  litUe  hereto  interest 
the  general  tonrist  Itis6leagaesih>m 
Madrid  bj  the  carretera  (high  road).. 

Hotels^ — Parador  Ckmeia],  in  the 
Plan. 

General  Deaoription.— AlcalAstands 
in  a  plain,  on  the  ri^t  bank  of  the  He- 
niree^  which  winds  its  way,  hiding,  aa 
if  for  shame,  its  mnddy  Uiin  sheet  of 
water  behind  some  stately  ebns.  Sere- 
ral  lofty  sandy  drrot  screen  It  from  tiie 
N.  winds,  bat  it  is  nerertheless  a  rery 
cold  and  wind-Uown  place  in  winter. 
The  former  town,  or  rather  Tillage,  that 
was  grouped  around  a  castle  bnilt  by 
the  Moors,  whence  it  receiTed  its  actual 
name— Al-Kalat,  the  Castle— was  si- 
ready  known  in  tiie  time  of  the  Romans, 
who  caUed  it  Corophitam,  and,  accord- 
ing to  Pliny,  was  a  stipendisry  city, 
snljected  to  the  Jnrid.  ConTsntus  of 
Onsar- Augusta  (Zaragoca) :  sereral 
▼sees  and  coins  that  turn  up  now  snd 


B 


then  would  seem  to  confinn  this  state- 
ment Quadalijara,  nererthdesi,  i% 
or  rather  was  formerly,  the  riTsl  of  Al- 
calA, and  disputed  with  it  the  rigiht  of 
being  Pliny^sO>mplutnm.  The  citadel 
stood  on  the  site  now  called  Alcali  la 
Ti^s.  About  1118,  the  first  archbishop 
of  Toledo,  Den  Bernardo,  built  a  lijii 
fortress  on  the  hill  now  called  Mai  Ye- 
dno,  and  the  Moors,  who  possessed  the 
dty,  had  to  surrender.  This  prelate 
was  the  real  conqueror  of  AlcalA,  which, 
in  reward,  was  given  to  him  with  all 
the  land  around  by  King  Alonso  VI., 
and  confirmed  to  his  successor  Baimun- 
do.  This  last,  a  truly-styled  prince  of 
the  Church,  thus  beoune  the  absolute 
sovereign  of  this  petty  principality, 
which,  howerer,  nerer  ceased  to  be, 
ecclesiastically,  dependent  on  the  see  of 
Toledo.  Among  many  other  curious 
illustrations  of  those  times  which  we 
read  in  the  Fueros  or  charter  that  he 
gare  to  his  people  (they  are  found  in  a 
fine  eodez  of  the  18th  century  in  the 
nranldpat  archiysa  of  that  dty),  is  the 
following  law :  *Th^man  who  will  pull 
another  by  the  beard  ia  to  be  fined  four 
maraTedi%  and  hare  his  own  cut  away ;  - 
and  if  he  ahould  have  none,  let  him 
hare  an  inch  deep  of  fleah  cut  into  his 
chin.*  Strange  to  say,  great  toleraact 
was  shown  by  these  archbishope  towafdi 


2 


ALOAUL  (DB  HENArBS). 


the  Jewi^  tnd  a  perfect  equality  between 
them  and  Ghrietiana  eetabliahed  before 
the  law,  'peche  como  pechan  por  Te- 
sino  criatiano  4  criatiano ; '  bnt  thia 
apirit  of  moderation  did  not  extend  to 
the  hated  infidela,  the  Moon,  who  were 
treated  alwaya  aa  the  conquered  people, 
and  dealt  with  according^/.  The  see  of 
Complntnm  ia  one  of  the  earliest  in 
Spain,  and  its  two  celebrated  martyrs, 
Santos  Jnsto  y  Pastor,  lived  in  the  time 
of  Dadan.  Those  who  are  earioos  in 
martyrology  and  modem  mlradea  may 
consult  on  this  subject,  *  La  Yida,  ICar- 
tirio»  etc.,  de  loa  NiAoa  S&  Jnsto  y 
Pastor,'  by  A.  Morales.  AlcalA,  1668, 
4to  (tare).  It  oontains,  besidei^  some 
rery  carious  information  rektire  to  the 
antiquities  of  Alcali. 

SeVersl  kingi  hare  often  resided  at 
AloalA,  where,  moreoTer,  the  Cortes  of 
the  kingdom  were  held  in  former  times 
and  on  various  oooaaiona ;  but  it  haa 
been  chiefly  one  of  the  battie-fields  of 
the  aQ-grasping^  all-powerfol  theocracy 
of  Spain,  and  celebrated  for  Arch.  Teno- 
rio's  efforts  to  obtain  the  regency  dnring 
Enrique  III.'s  minority ;  for  CeresueU's 
partian  warfsre  on  behalf  of  Don  Al- 
Taro  de  Luna,  and  OarriUo's  intriguea 
in  &Tour  of  La  Beltran^a  agsinst  the 
interests  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella,  in 
the  arrangement  of  whose  marrisge  he 
had  played  ao  principal  a  part  Their 
daughter,  Catherine  of  Aragon,  whom 
Shakspeare  makes  Henry  VIII.  define 
as  'the  queen  of  earthly  queens^'  was 
bom  at  Alcali,  and  ao  was  the  same 
Catholic  king's  grandson  Ferdinand, 
subsequentiy  Emperor  of  Germany, 
whose  birth  caused  his  mother  Juana 
the  loss  of  htt  reason ;  but  Alcali't 
greatest  glory  must  for  ever  be  to  hare 
giren  birth  to  Cerrantea.  The  prospe- 
rity of  Aloali,  inaugurated  by  the 
Church,  attained  its  acm<  under  the 
wise  protection  of  Card.  Ximenes,  more 
genenlly  known  by  Spaniards  as  Cine- 


roe,  who  studied  here,  and  founded  the 
celebrated  uniTersity  in  1610,  endow- 
ing it  generously,  and  filling  its  collegea 
with  some  of  the  most  learned  seholari 
of  his  agei  When,  in  obedience  to  the 
spirit  of  centralisation— a  bad  importa- 
tion from  France— the  unirersity  was 
remored  to  Madrid  in  1886,  Alcali  fell, 
nerer  to  rise  sgain,  and  is  now  but  a 
shadow  of  its  former  self,  a  backward, 
aolitary,  abandoned  city,  without  re 
taining  any  quaintness  or  originality 
or  eren  enrirons,  to  compensate  for  idl 
its  other  losses.  Alcali  was  indeed  pros- 
perous as  the  seat  of  learning  when 
its  haDs  were  thronged  by  eleren  thou- 
sand students,  when  Cenrantes^  study- 
ing here  before  he  remored  to  Madrid 
and  Salamanca,  called  it  the  *famoso 
Compluto'  ('Galatea,'  toL  L  p.  121), 
and  it  counted  nineteen  collegea.  Then, 
on  the  banka  of  the  rirer,  'las  liberas 
del  lamoso  Henar<s'  (Cerrsn'tes^  'Gala- 
tea,' YoL  L  p.  68),  the  estudiantina,  or 
Burschenschaft,  held  merry  assemUiea. 
These  were  the  Spanish  estudiantes^  who 
studied  principally  for  the  Church,  and 
belonged  to  the  middleand  lower  clsssft. 
Theb  want  of  funda  and  oontinual  re- 
mti  to  expedient,  mingled  with  gaiety 
and  liiinesB,  haa  giren  them  a  peculiar 
character,  style,  and  reputation.  Dur- 
ing racationa  and  camiral,  they  went, 
and  stiU  ccmtinue  to  go,  in  bands  about 
the  streets  with  their  usual  and  now 
antiquated  doaka  in  rags,  and  torn  two- 
comer  hats,  and  singing  with  a  guitar 
under  the  windows  beg  for  pence  and 
smiles  from  regaa. 

Vm  wmdi— te  tunaate 
Se  poso  A  pintaria  luna, 
Y  de  hambre  que  tenia 
Kattf  na  plato  de  aceituaas. 
Anda,  Tida  nia,  abre  la  ventana, 
Mira  qytf  hictda  Ueiro  la  totaaa. 

Bights.— Colegio  de  San  Ildefonso 
(CapUU  del  Cardinal  Cisneros),  Archi- 
episoapal  Palace,  La  Colegiata  (cathe- 
dral). Church  of  Santa  Maria. 


ALGAlA  (DB  HSHiRBS). 


OaUgic  d$  Sem  /U^AmM.  — This 
oolegk)  major  wit  tlia  tett  of  the  for- 
BMT  nnirenity.  It  has  a  grand  effect 
when  seen  from  a  distance^  bat  on  oloeer 
ezamhiation  becomes  clnmsj  and  mas- 
sire.  It  was  magnificently  built  and 
endowed  by  Ximenes.  Thefewremain- 
ing  halls,  patioi^  and  galleries  srs  deso- 
late and  lonely,  bat  i^  bear  yestiges 
of  their  former  grandear.  Of  the  Para- 
ninfo^  where  degrees  were  oonferredf 
and  whieh  was  richly  ornamented  in 
the  16th  centmy,  there  eztsts  little  now 
except  the  oeilings  and  the  ornamented 
galleries  which  ran  roand. 

The  principal  cariosity  here  is  the 
chapel  bailt  by  Oil  de  OntaAon  in  a 
semi-Moorish  Oothic  style  with  great 
magnificence  and  taste.  Here  lies 
the  foonder  in  one  of  the  finest  oms 
(amss)  to  be  found  in  Spain.  It  is  in 
marUe^  and  the  work  of  Domenicho  of 
Florence.  Obserre  sttentiTely  the  ex- 
qaisito  medallions,  winged  griffins, 
foliage^  etc,  and  especially  the  effigy 
(ezpiession,  robes,  and  details)  of  Card. 
Cimeros.  The  epit^  is  not  worthy 
of  either  the  man  or  his  tomb,  and  ends, 
'FMer,  daz,  pnesal,  cardineasqae 
pater,— qoin,  Tirtate  mea  jonctam  est 
diadema  cocoUo, — Dum  mihi  regnanti 
patoit  Hespeiia.'  He  died  at  Boa, 
Not.  8,  1517.    Of  him  may  be  said— 

Thb  cardinal, 
Tpflmh  uMB  an  liMiiJa  slodi,  nodonbtadly 
Waa  faihiwiart  to  iich  hooour.  From  hit  cradle 
Ha  waa  a  acholar,  and  a  ripe  and  good  one, 
Bsceediof  wiae,  fiiir  wpcktn  and  panoadiag ; 
Lofty  aad  aoor  to  thcBi  that  loved  Urn  not. 
Bat,  to  thoaa  nen  that  loaght  Ua.  aweet  aa 

Kimi  Henry  VIII, 

This  great  man,  who  seiied  the  reins  of 
goTemment  that  neither  nobles  nor 
commons  coold  hold,  a  model  of  in- 
tegrity, energy,  and  piety,  was  a  perfect 
nJrnr  of  his  age,  <^  which  he  aharcd 
the  defects  and  upheld  the  Tirtues.  He 
destroyed  by  fire  thousands  of  precious 


Arabic  and  Hebrew  worics.  He  was, 
howerer,  a  scholar  himself,  and  pub- 
lished the  celebrated  Pdyc^oi  Bible, 
called  Complutensian,  from  ite  being 
printed  here  (Complutum),  in  1M4-16. 
There  an  still  some  books  and  MSB., 
the  great  curiosity  being  the  celebrated 
Alphonsine  Tables  (by  Alfonso  Z.  of 
Castile),  which  sie  kept  here.  A  splen- 
did  folio  edition  has  been  Just  pub- 
lished and  printed  at  Madrid,  by  order 
of  the  queen,  from  the  M8S.  The  work 
is  written  in  Spanish,  and  is  one  of  the 
earliest  of  Western  science  written  in  a 
modem  language  ;  the  introduction  is 
the  catalogue  of  the  fixed  star%  cele- 
brated as  <  Las  TaUas  Alfonsinas. '  Thitf 
work  was  a  great  step  towards  the  dif • 
frttion  of  knowledge  in  the  ISth  cen- 
tury. These  books  oontain,  besides 
methods,  etc,  and  the  tables,  eloquent 
and  poetical  explanations.  The  follow- 
ing passage  will  show  the  style  and 
quaint  manner  of  the  king.  Speaking 
of  Ursa  Mi^r,  he  says,  '  Some  astrono- 
mers haye  taken  it  for  a  wain  with  its 
pole ;  others  say  it  has  the  form  of  an 
animal,  which  mif^t  as  well  be  a  lion, 
a  woU^  or  a  dog^  as  a  male  or  a  female 
bear.  Here,  then,  are  hearenly  animals 
inhabiting  that  part  of  the  dcy  where 
this  constellation  is  to  be  found,  and 
recognised  by  ancient  astronomers  be- 
cause they  saw  four  stars  forming  a 
square^  and  three  in  a  right  line.  They 
must  haye  been  endowed  with  a  better 
eyesight  than  ours,  and  the  sky  must 
hare  been  Teiy  clear.  Since  they  say 
it  is  ashe-bear,  let  it  be  one  ;  they  were 
lucky  in  being  able  to  diBtingnish  it.' 
The  andent  astronomers  did  not  err  in 
their  estimate  of  the  Alphonsine  Tables. 
Regiomontanos  sayH,  *  Doware  lest  you 
trust  too  much  to  blind  calculation  and 
Alphonsine  dreams.'  Tycho  Brahesays 
that  the  400,000  ducate  expended  upon 
the  tebles  would  hare  been  better  laid 
out  in  actual  obeerration  of  the  heaTsnsi 


ALOAUL  (DB  HXNArES). 


In  point  of  tniCh,  AlfonM  hftd  litUe  or 
noUiing  to  do  with  the  tables  that  beer 
his  name.  (See  also  about  these  tables, 
Tieknor's  'Histoiy  of  Spanish  liteia- 
tore;'  ToL  l  p.  86»  note.) 

The  nja  in  this  chapel  is  a  fine  speci- 
men of  Spanish  Reriral,  and  the  work 
of  Nicholas  de  Yeigara  ofToledo. 

ArtkUpmopal  PfUaa. — Observe  the 
second  patio  and  staircase,  both  of 
them  plateresqne  and  exqniaite,  the 
Bemgaete-like  windows  of  the  first 
patio  and  f)i(ade  to  the  gardens. 

La  CoUgiata,  or  San  Jutlo  y  Pador, 
— This  church  is  the  oldest  parish 
in  AlcaU,  and  was  raised  to  a  col- 
legiata  in  1479.  The  edifice  was  con* 
siderably  enlarged  in  1497  and  1609 
under  Pedro  GumieL  It  was  styled 
Magittral  hj  Pope  Leo  X.,  when  Cis- 
neros  caused  all  its  prebendaries  to  be 
doctors  in  dirinitj.  It  is  situated  in  a 
plasuela,  and  preaents  a  plain  f)i(ade 
with  an  indifferent  stone  tower.  Its 
three  nares  an  deficient  in  beauty  and 
proportions ;  the  reja  which  leads  into 
the  presbytery  was  elaborately  worked 
by  Juan  Frances.  The  principal  re- 
tablo  in  the  presbytery  is  barroque,  and 
all  around  is  modernised,  churrigue- 
resque,  paint,  and  bad  taste ;  under  it 
is  a  crypt,  where  the  remains  of  the 
martyr  boys,  Justo  y  Pastor,  srs  kept 
with  great  Teneration.  The  paintings 
of  Carducho^  etc,  are  very  indifferent 

TK$  Chmnk  ^  Samla  Afaria  should 
be  visited  by  all  readers  of  Don  Quixote, 
as  it  was  here  that  Miguel  de  Cerrantes 
Saarerda  was  christened.  We  read  in 
the  registry  of  births  of  this  ehuroh,  in 
the  b(mk  which  begins  in  1583  and  ends 
1660 :  'On  Sunday,  9th  Oct  of  the 


year  of  our  Lord  1647,  was  baptised 
Miguel,  son  of  Rodrigo  de  Cernintes, 
and  of  his  wife  Doha  Leoner.  Juan 
Pardo  was  godfather,  and  he  was  bap- 
tised by  the  Bachiller  Serrano^  curate 
of  Our  Lady.  The  witneeses  being  the 
sanristan  (sexton),  Baltasar  Yaxques, 
and  I  who  baptised  him.  Signed, 
Bachiller  Serrano.'  In  this  same  book 
ere  also  the  'parti  das  de  bantismo'  of 
bis  brother  Andres,  baptised  1642,  and 
his  Bister%  Andrea,  1644,  and  Luisa, 
1646.  We  may  therefore  assume  with 
Ticknor  (*  History  of  Spanish  litera- 
ture,' vol.  ii  p.  60),  that  he  was  bom 
on  that  very  day,  or  the  day  preceding, 
according  to  the  practice  of  the  Catholic 
Church. 

Bookiif  Sif0rene§---1.  *yida,  Mar- 
tirio^  etc,  de  los  gloriosos  Ni&os  Mar- 
tires  SS.  Justo  y  Pastor,'  by  Amb.  de 
Morales ;  Alcali,  Angulo^  1668 — scarce, 
and  containing  curiotts  information  on 
the  antiquities  of  the  town. 

2.  'DescripdondelaUniversidadde 
Alcali,'  by  Vcrgara  (a  MR) 

8.  'Seminario  de  Nobles,  TaUer  de 
Venerables,'  etc  ; '  £1  Col^o  Mayor  de 
San  Pedro  y  San  Pablo,'  with  a  life  of 
Card.  Cisneroe,  by  Alcolea  (Madrid, 
Martin,  1777) ;  another  '  Life'  by  Albar 
Qomes,  and  an  incomplete  one  by 
Vergarw 

For  the  history  of  Cardinal  Ximenes, 
'  Yida  de  Ximenes,'  etc,  by  Eugenic 
Bobles,  4to,  Toledo,  1604 ;  Prescotf  s 
'  Ferdhiand  and  Isabella,'  etc  ;  but 
the  life  of  this  great  man,  the  real 
founder  of  the  unity  of  Spain,  and 
precursor  of  Richelieu,  is  yet  to  be 
written. 


1 


)iAMaDToTnua)o.MiivcEnuucAimimmmx^^ 

sqCd/id 


«flrjfttt 


ME  Dtr  g&RAXEAy    SXJ 

t t*  30 ±_  *•     .    Jf 


^smaas^Tt, 


A,*  C  iUf*.   VAiobui^ 


ROUTES  TO  ALICANTE. 


1 


lit  ¥nm  Afadiid.  Bjimilwayin 
18)  homt  bj  mail  tnin*  about  15  hows 
bj  omnibus  train  ;  distuica,  282  miles 
or  4SS  kiL;  two  trains  a-day;  iare% 
1st  cL,  200r.  25c. ;  2d  cL,  155r.  25c. ; 
8d  cL,  95r.  25e.  Station  at  Madrid, 
Pnertade  Atocha ;  same  road  as  Madrid 
to  Valencia  as  fiur  as  Almansa  (see  F«- 
Unda),  At  Almansa  a  good  baffet 
The  load  from  Almansa  is  not  pictur- 
esque, and  the  Tillages  uninteresting. 
At  FiUena,  (8224  inhabitants,  once 
the  appanage  of  the  celebrated  Maiy  of 
that  name),  there  is  on  a  hill,  an  old 
historical  castle,  of  no  artistic  merit ; 
the  slopes  of  the  hiUs  around  are 
clothed  with  rinea,  and  the  great  an- 
nual lair,  held  Sept  29  to  Oct  5,  is  of 
considerable  importance,  the  sales 
amounting  then  to  about  £120,000.  A 
road  here  leads  to  Aieoy,  where  the  best 
cigarette-paper  in  Spain  is  manufactured, 
with  woollens,  coarse  and  inferior.  The 
riTeristheYinalapd.  Three  miles  from 
Saac^  the  Yinslap6  is  crossed,  andatnn- 
nel  begins  of  580  yards  (485  metres) 
long;  2 kiL  after  ifoNovor  the yinalap6 
it  crossed  sgain  on  a  bridge  which  is  con- 
sidered the  most  important  woric  on  that 
line.  Novelda  (Pop.  8100)  is  one  of 
the  most  picturesque  Talleys  in  this  part 
of  Spain.  This,  with  the  country 
around  Elche,  and  the  whole  ralley  of 
the  Seguraa,  has  been  compared  to  the 
delta  a  the  Nile^  and  its  natural  pro- 
ductions are  the  orange,  the  palm, 
Indian  com,  fruits  of  all  sorts,  aniseed, 
oil,  wine,  etc  Three  miles  from  it  is 
an  almost  ignored  sulphureous  spring. 
IHL  here  to  Murcia,  Klohe,  etc     (See 

) 


2d.  From  Vaimeia.  A.  By  rail 
Take  tickets  to  Alicante  At  Abnansa 
carriages  are  changed,  and  traTollers 
haTe  ordinarily  to  wait  for  train  from 
Madrid  to  Alicante  Only  two  tndns 
(the  mail  and  slow)  leate  daUr  from 
Valencia  to  Almansa.  Time  4  nrs.  by 
mail,  and  about  the  same  by  slow  train ; 
fares,  1st  cL,  64r.  94c  ;  2d  cL,  41r. 
54c  ;  8d  d.,  24r.  12c  Distance,  621 
miles.  If,B. — Hours  of  trains  should 
be  carefrdly  combined,  so  as  to  aroid 
delay  at  Almansa,  and  eten  passing  the 
night  there ;  but  if  the  ktter  be  the 
case,  the  I^eh  people  who  keep  the 
Buffet  supply  some  Tery  decent  rooms^ 
and  the  tm  is  tolerable  The  inn  close 
by  is  Tery  wretched.  From  Almansa 
to  Alicante,  time  about  8|  hrs.  by 
either  train ;  distance,  97  kiL ;  (ares, 
1st  cL,  48r. ;  2d  cL,  83r.  (For  details 
of  road  from  Valencia  to  Almansa,  see 
Falenaa  B.)  B.^Bj  sea,  12  hrs.  by 
steamers  of  the  Campahia  de  NaTcga- 
oion  4  Industria,  and  others  occasion- 
ally, which  are  adTerUsed  in  pspers 
of  Valencia  and  Alicante,  llOr.,  80r., 
and40r. 

8d.  From  Murcia  (see  Mureia),  by 
rail,  through  Chinchilla,  17  hours.  For 
steamers  running  from  Alicante  to  Mar- 
seilles, (Cartagena,  etc,  see  these  at 
their  proper  place 

4th.  From  Bantiona,  by  Lopes*s 
steamers ;  leaye  7th  and  22d  of  erery 
month  at  10  A.M.,  touch  at  Valencia, 
and  arriTO  the  9th  and  24th  in  80  hrs. ; 
1st  cL,  240r. ;  2d  cL,  160r. ;  8d  a,  90r. 

5th.  from  MalagtL  Lopes*s  steamers 
I  leare  2d  and  17th  at  12,  arrive  the  follow- 
lingday.  280r.,  180r.,and90r.,in88hre 


6 


AUOANTE. 


Cbpltal  of  the  proviacs  UAUemnU,  tcapoft,  fortified  place.    Pbp.  (t86i)  9i,s6e. 


JUUwiU  Station.— At  the  tUOUm, 
omnftMiaes  and  carriagea  in  attendance 
at  fixed  faree.  A  upecdal  omniboa  of 
Fonda  del  Vapor.  N.B.—to  aroid 
loggige  being  Visited,  fee  of  8r.  to  12r. 
to  offidala. 

At  the  jitTf  on  landing  from  or  to 
steamer,  2r.  per  paaeenger,  and  2r. 
ordinary-sised  packages,  a  tarifll  Agree 
nerertheleis  before  teking  a  boat 

Hotels.— Fonda  del  Vapor,  fiusing 
the  sea  and  pier.  A  good  and  well-con- 
dncted  establishment;  charges  mode- 
rate, 26r.  to  80r.  per  diem,  all  included, 
on  tiie  first  floor ;  and  20r.  to  25r.  on 
the  second  floor ;  Uble  dlidte,  12r.  ; 
good  breakfast,  lOr. ;  and  caj^tal  wines 
of  the  prorince.  Reduction  of  prices 
to  famffliMi  staying  some  time.  A  good 
oaUehe.  Booms  on  the  sea  from  8r.  to 
40r. 

Hotel  Bomio^  well  situated  near  the 
theatre  and  Alameda ;  charges  abont 
the  same  as  at  former ;  clean  rooms ; 
Uble  dliftte. 

Ouiiio.— On  Paseo  de  la  Rejna; 
French  papers ;  admission  for  a  fort- 
night or  more  easily  obtained  throu^ 
reconmiendation  of  consnL 

BaiXt, — ^BaAos  de  Bonansa,  6r.;  sea- 
bathing daring  summer. 

fTtiuiL  — Of  Fondillol,  Belemeta, 
Aloque,  Mal?asia  de  Alicante,  Moscatel, 
▼eiy  rich,  some  sweet,  and  all  strong 
and  heady. 

Post-Offloe.— Closes  at  6.16  P.M.  and 
6A.1C  Letters  are  distributed  at  7.80 
▲.M.  if.i^.— On  special  days  in  the 
week  letters  may  be  sent  by  Lopes's 
steamers  that  run  between  Cadis  and 
ICaneilles,  with  intermediate  stations 


at  Malaga,  Alicante,  Barcelona.  A  let- 
ter takes  four  days  to  Paris,  fire  to  Lon- 
don. Lopes's  steamers  office  opposite 
Fonda  del  Vapor. 

Telegraph  Offloa.— Open   only  by 
day,  to  all  parts  of  Europe. 

Olixnate.— Alicante  would  justly  de- 
serve to  be  ranked  among  the  southern 
cities  better  suited  to  inralids.      Its 
ktitude  is  88*  18^.80*  Paris,  and  88*  20' 
41*  N.  longitude,  0'80'W.  Greenwich. 
It  is  sheltered  from  the  K.  and  W. 
winds  by  a  hi^  ridge  of  mountains,  of 
which  the  highest  is  £l  Mongo.    The 
sir  is  warmer  than  at  Valencia,bnt  more 
dry.    There  is  an  occasionally  marked, 
but  not  ii^urious,  depression  in  the 
thermometer  about  night&ll,  and  that 
Tery  dryness  is  somewhat  tempered  by 
the  cool  sea-breexe,  to  which  the  dty, 
by  its  position,  is  fsTonraUy  expoeed. 
It  is,  nerertheles^  exposed  to  all  the 
Tiolence  of  the  8.  and  &W.  winds. 
There  is  a  certain  analogy  between  this 
climate  and  that  of  Nice,  which  is  all 
in  fkrour  of  Alicante.     According  to 
local  and  foreign  doctors,  this  climate 
is  Tery  well  suited  to  inyalids  sinking 
under  a  debilitated  organiim.    Scrofri- 
lous  and  lymphatic   perwns,  conra- 
lescents,  and  all  those  predisposed  to 
consumption,  but  without  any  symp- 
toms, will  derire  great  benefit  from  this 
balmy  air. 

MHmfltgiemiatrwHmimmJemitktOh- 

9grvmt0rfmiAliemtU4imtk4ymrxlf^ 
Avenge  yMrty  beioaetiical  heiflu  7^>*  nul>  o 
AYcnge  eiuniel  temperature  .       .    17.5  oeaL 
Tesperatare,  auudma  (July  m)     .    37*   •• 
„  nioiaa(Februer77)     0.6   „ 

Nua^beroffaJBTdaysintheyew  .    ^4 
Quantity  of  faia  lallea    .  .   770^1  10 


AUOAMTB. 


MsnoioLOOiCAL  Obsbktations  madb  at  thb  Institutb  or 

AucANTB,  i86a 


TciBpcfBtuw  01  Air* 

DiracDOB  0*  wriiKUt 

• 

i 

Quail- 
tity. 

MoBlha. 

Aver^ 
ago. 

Mud- 

amoL 

Mini- 

amm. 

OkO. 

N. 

MS. 

m. 

•B. 

a. 

•w. 

w. 

MW. 

lite 

Mardi 

Angwc. 

OVpvdB 

Octoba 

NovmU 

y . 

iwr' 

» 

• 

tt.1 

19.6 
•3.1 

•4.7 

*i.6 

t«^7 
1&6 

•$.4 

•5.8 

•3.9 

3:2 

33« 
•97 
•94 

•.4 

a.6 

3-J 
3-« 

a.1 

5.6 
x«.« 

i«.6 
«4.4 

7.» 
44 

•7.t 

•3-« 

«7.» 

«6.x 

••.7 
•4.0 

•5.« 

».: 

•S.9 
•S-o 

4 

4 
9 
S 

7 

•  • 

•  • 

•  • 

•  • 

3 

3 

• 

9 

6 

4 

7 
so 

J 

4 

xa 

6 

9 
5 

S 

•  • 

•  ■ 

•  • 

•  • 

II 

•  • 

•  • 

•  • 

10 
X4 
X3 
II 

•  • 

•  • 

•  • 

•  • 

4 

1 

3 

t 

9 

t 

•  • 

•  • 

•  • 

•  • 

1 
•  • 
5 

«7 

10 
It 

10 

9 

6110 

36^83 
i4a.75 

.\tu 

11.69 

43-69 

i6loo 
55." 

i.7t 

Toudt 

35 

7« 

40    66 

at 

40 

14 

79 

• 

ArtngH 
Mv£m 

tarn 

•t 
nta 
mU 

raalatn 

mparal 
tmpcrali 

ipetmtui 
ivo^  Ai 

icpresi 
r«  . 
igmtw 
Jch  10 

tore 

•              • 

•       • 

76aoS 

17.5           Nvmber  of  raby  days 
2IL4          Qoatttiky  faUea 

35 

.    447. 3« 

MsnOROLOOIOAL  OBSBKVATIONS  MADB  AT  THB  InSTITUTB  OP 

AUCANTBt   1861. 


U<mdm. 

TciBpstatuia  of  Air. 

j^uvcuon  01  wnos. 

1 
1 

1 
Qoaa- 

Aw 
aga. 

Maxi- 

Miai- 

OsdL 

N. 

MS. 

B. 

•B. 

t. 

tw. 

w. 

MW. 

iMo 

Doonabv 
1861 

FfAxwigj  . 

13.0 

•5.3 

S.I 

•4.» 

a 

a 

•  • 

•  • 

1 

II 

4 

II 

5 

M.74 

ia6 
14.0 

aS.3 

S3.9 

t.i 

S.I 

aa.8 

5 

a 

4 
4 

S 

4 

S 
1 

t 
3 

i 

10 

6 

4 

1 

'tn 

March.    . 

•7.9 

o-i 

•7.6 

6 

4 

•  • 

4 

3 

7 

6 

3 

7.  IS 

p.: 

15.9 
It 

31.1 

4.0 

S7.1 

3 

7 

7 

i 

a 

3 

3 

3 

4«-67 

33.7 

.4.7 

•90 

•  • 

la 

7 

a 

9 

» 

4 

Jttna     .    . 
J«hr     .    . 

34.4 

11.5 

SS.9 

•  • 

5 

4 

10 

8 

9 

•  • 

1 

1 

••79 

s; 

37.« 

14.0 

t3.i 

•  • 

4 

9 

10 

i 

a 

•  • 

3 

•  • 

•  • 

Augmt     . 

Jit 

15.0 

ta.9 

•  • 

i 

4 

•i 

•  • 

•  • 

■  • 

#• 

•  • 

•>9 

Sl.l 

11.3 

•3-5 

a 

i 

6 

s 

•  • 

3 

1 

•.79 

Octoo6r 

SJ 

8.9 

«4-« 

•  • 

la 

1 

9 

6 

1 

3 

5 

S6.4S 

Vonmhnw 

1&6 

5.« 

SI.6 

s 

5 

6 

•  • 

9 

4 

9 

9 

3 

•7-94 

Totals 

ta 

7» 

53 

57 

39 

y> 

l« 

56 

ATerafo  pressora  01  ilpmsphcra 

960.10 

ATersga  teaipefatnrc,  annoal                       18.4 

Nttinber  of  raiay  days               %» 

Maxianifli  tanporatttrst  AngmC  9  •             37-9 

Qwiuicyfansa         .       .   i6a56 

MiaiMoa  ttapefatnrc,  Jamiary  ai               1.1 

8 


AUCAMTS. 


*The  grand  objection  to  Kioe  it  iti 
dxynatt  and  the  exciting  and  irritating 
natOTd'of  its  atmoephere.'-— (*0n  the 
Climate  of  Nice,'  by  W.  Fair,  ILD., 
p.  10.)  But  U,  in  some  diseases^  these 
an  foond  to  aggrarate  the  malady,  in 
other%  of  an  opposite  tendency,  they  are 
prodnctiye  of  mnch  good.  The  death- 
rate  in  I860  was  1  in  Si ;  in  1801, 
lin85. 

Elche  (12  m.  from  Alicante,  see  p. 
10)  has  not  been  as  yet  studied  as  a 
medical  station.  Itmi^t,  ncTertheless, 
be  considered  superior  to  Alicants  in 
many  respects.    The  sky  is  heayenly, 
the  Mir  pore  and  genial,  and  the  forests 
of  palmar  orange-trees,  pomegranates, 
and  olives,  srs  soiBcient  to  indicate  the 
temperatore  in  winter.    It  is  rery  dry, 
but  not  ss  much,  perhaps,  as  Alicante, 
owing  to  constant  and  abundant  irriga- 
tion, the  Yinalap^  river,  and  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  Pantano  or  lake^  situated 
8  miles  K.    There  is  also  a  cool  ahade 
under  the  palms ;  but  it  must  not  be 
forgotten  that  it  is  exposed  to  the  influ- 
ence of  the  S.  and  K.  irind%  which 
prevail  especially  during  the  winter, 
although  at  rare  intervals.     In  the 
summer,  intermittent  levers  srs  not  un- 
f^nent  (a  consequence  of  emanations 
from  the  irrigated  huerta)  which  more 
particularly  seise  the  labourer^  who 
stand  all  day  in  the  water  under  a 
scorching  sun.   The  houses  srs  not  com- 
fortable, certainly,  but  arm-chain,  car- 
pets^ and  doors  and  windows  closing 
hermeticaUy,  are  a  useleis  luxury,  nay, 
a  nuisance^  in  thcM  Oriental  climatea. 
living  is  very  cheap,  fhiit  and  vege- 
tables srs  sold  for  a  song;  and  its  prox- 
imity to  Alicante  renders  supplies  easily 
obtainable.    There  is,  we  do  not  deny, 
a  total  lack  of  society,  amusements,  and 
comforts,  the  absence  of  which  is  often 
felt  by  invalids ;  but  the  real  advantages 
of  elhnate,  combined  with  very' great 
cheapness  are  objects  not  to  be  despised. 


and  must  compensate  for  others.  Doe 
tors  may  safely  send  here  all  invalids  , 
suiTering  from  catarrh,  rheumatism,  and 
consumption,  accompanied  by  abundant 
expectoration,  in  the  first  stages  of  the 
malady,  and  in  all  cases  where  the  irri- 
tability of  the  patient  (especially  in  lym- 
I^iatio  temperaments)  cannot  endure 
the  more  exciting  air  of  the  sea-side 
medical  stations. 

Oeneral  Dosoriptlon. — ^Alicante  is 
situated  on  the  sea-side,  extending  slong 
and  around  the  spacious  open  bay,  and 
at  the  foot  of  the  lofty,  Ueak,  chalky 
hill,  crewned  by  an  old  and  now  mu<^ 
ruined  castlei  Its  houses,  low,  gay, 
whitewaahed,  look  picturesque  from  the 
steamer  ss  one  enten  the  port,  and  the 
background  is  formed  by  a  striUngrange 
of  mountains.  The  environs  sre  bare, 
and  the  soil  salinous.  Afewpalmsand 
fig-trees  add  to  the  Oriental  appearance 
of  the  place.  It  is,  on  the  whole,  a  very 
backward,  uninteresting  city,  with  little 
or  no  society  save  that  of  a  few  En^^ish 
merchants,  old  residents  in  the  pUce, 
and  the  usual  humdrum  old-fashioned 
Spanish  provincial  tertnlia  (easy  evening 
parties).  There  is  a  pretty  good  theat^ 
a  plasa  de  toros^  a  fine  market-phice, 
opposite  to  Fonda  del  Yapor,  and  the 
town-hall  has  some  sort  of  an  appear- 
ance, but  without  any  determined  style 
or  definable  effect  The  tobacco-manu- 
fSMstoiy  employs  some  4000  women, 
many  of  whom  are  perfect  ^rpes  of  the 
semi-Moorish  AHcsntina  beauty.  The 
Alameda  is  the  flahionable  walk.  Out- 
side the  tofm  sre  two  other  promenades, 
the  Alameda  of  San  Frandsco  and  that 
ofLosCapuchinos.  There  are  two  pretty 
gardens,  which  should  be  visited  rather 
by  botanists  than  by  amateurs  accus- 
tomed to  English  or  French  gardens — 
we  mean  the  Jardin  of  Pinohennoso  snd 
that  of  FeAaoerrada.  For  permits  (ad- 
mission), apply  through  Uie  obliging 
landlord  of  the  Yapor  Hotel 


AUOANTS. 


9 


The  Port  ii  tpadoiif,  dtoAtad  between 
Oibo  de  la  Hwrt»  on  the  N.K  end 
Gbbo  de  Sta.  Pole  on  the  a,  distent 
from  eeeh  other  &W.  end  N.K.  ebont  10 
m.  Itieeeeora^  end  though  Uigeehipe 
moor  K.  end  S.,  dietent  from  (  m.  to 
1  VL  from  shore  (in  from  foor  to  ei^ 
fethome  water),  thej  eie  nerer  driven, 
from  tiieirmooringi,  howerer  much  they 
are  expoeed  to  all  winds  from  K.N.K.  to 
&  bj  W.,  beceneetheholding-groimdis 
first-rate.  The  trade  ie  not  reiy  aetiTO, 
elthoo^  it  has  of  late  eomewhet  in- 
creeeed,  from  &cilitiee  being  afforded  to 
transport  by  the  railway  to  Madrid. 
The  prindpel  export  is  raisins»  which 
are  mostly  taken  to  England.  Theother 
chief  ezporte  ere  liqnorice,  brandy,  wine, 
afanonds,  berilhs  seflfron,  silks.  The 
exportation  of  barilla  fonneriy  emonnt- 
ed  to  100,000  cwt,  bnt  has  declined  to 
little  more  than  20,000  cwt,  from  its 
being  edolterated,  uid  elso  soperseded 
by  ertifidel  eoda.  The  importe  ere, 
soger,  ooffee,  eottoo,  linen  stafl%  mostly 
from  England  and  Franoe.  The  Tahie 
of  English  direct  legitimete  importe  into 
Alioente  (1857)  wee  £S00,14S— the  port 
hsTing  been  Tisited  by  IM  Britieh 
ehipe,  of  the  borthen  of  24,487  tons. 
Alicente  is  a  greet  smngiG^ing  centre, 
end  the  contrabandistes,  thoee  ermed 
end  bold  free-traders  of  all  times  and 
dimee,  ere  Tory  mnch  looked  up  to^ 
sympathised  wiUi,  eided  and  oTerlooked 
by  dl  here.  An  Englieh  compeny  has 
been  formed  for  melting  and  rsfining  the 
rich  aigentifiBroas  leed  oree  of  Almsgera 
and  other  perte  of  the  proTince  of  Mnr- 
da.  The  echools  for  the  lower  classes 
are  rery  few  and  not  attended:  crime  is 
therefore  frequent— abont  1  in  870 ;  and 
eoeofding  to  statistical  retoms^  of  847 
bnoght  for  trial,  780  were  able  neither 
to  rMd  nor  write,  end  the  Yalendan 
diekct,  the  old  langne  d*oc  is  still 
chiefly  spoken  by  the  lower  end  many 
of  the  middle  classes.    Agrionltore  is 


rery  backwsrd,  and  although  the  fivmer 
has  certainly  to  oontendegainst  drought, 
which  often  lasts  for  scTen  and  nine 
months  in  the  yeer,  his  ignorance  and 
indolence  prerent  his  eUeriating  this 
condition  by  making  more  pemtanat^ 
canals,  wells,  and  by  planting  treee 
thoee  beted  enemiee  of  the  Spenish 


Sights.— Church  of  Sen  Nicolss  de 
Beri— Picture  Galleiy  of  Marq.  del  An- 
golfk^The  Osstle— Elche.  . 

Ckwnk  tf  8Mk  KieoUu  d$  Bari^  the 
titdar  saint,  «el  patron,'  of  Alicante, 
was  built  in  1619,  in  the  Herrera  atyle 
(Oraco-Boman).  It  is  of  Tory  good  pro* 
portions^  well  oonodved  and  executed, 
but  not  completed,  and  ornamented 
with  Tory  bed  taste.  The  church  of 
Sta^  Maria  is  Toy  indifferent;  that  of 
Stai  Clara  was  originally  founded  to 
receiTe  the  sacred  sudario,  '  one  of  the 
three  napkins  or  kerchiefs  with  which 
the  Yeronica  wiped  our  Sariour's  face 
on  his  way  to  the  Calrary.'  It  was 
brought  from  Rome  in  the  16th  cen- 
tury, and  its  authentidty  is  undoubted 
by  the  Alioantinoe,  who  hold  it  in  great 
feneration.  See,  for  more  detaili,  *  Di* 
sertadon  historico-dogmatica  sobre  la 
ssgrada  Beliquia  de  la  eerenirima  Fas,' 
etc,  by  a  Jesuit  called  Fabiani  Murda, 
1788,  4to. 

Pietmf-OaUiryqf  Marq,  dd  Anifo{fa. 
— ^Apply  to  this  nobleman's  house 
for  permit,  which  ie  always  granted ; 
eend  your  card  and  fix  a  thne  for  cell- 
ing. The  house  contains  some  fine 
rooms,  well  frimished,  end  the  walli 
coTered  with  fine  old  tapeetry.  There 
ere,  in  all,  about  1060  pictures  of  Span- 
ish and  Dutch  schools.  His  Italian 
paintings  are  eaid  to  be  moetly  copiee  ; 
but  there  ere  eome  good  Sneyders,  a 
copy,  said  to  be  a  study,  of  Bnbens*  De- 
position from  the  Cross,  at  Antwerp^ 
Obeenre^  in  the  Spenish  school,  the 
Good  Shei^erd,  br  Orrente^  a  sd-dissnt 


10 


AUOANTB. 


Murillo^  And  a  Yiigin  and  Sleeping  Sa- 
rioor  by  Alo.  Cano. 

OadU.-'To  see  it»  apply  with  card 
to  the  Qobeniador.  The  OMtillo  de 
Santa  Barbara  oommanda  the  town  and 
bay ;  ita  aitnation  ia  good,  bat  the  con- 
tinned  dilapidationa  to  which  it  has 
been  labject  haTe  rendered  it  ahnoat 
useleM  for  defence,  and  of  no  interest 
to  the  military  tourist ;  it  is  composed 
of  four  tmplatamimUot  (plateanx),  the 
highest  of. which  overlooks  the  dty, 
and  is  strong.  It  is  about  400  ft  high. 
The  castle  of  San  Fernando  crowns  on 
the  N.  side  the  cenro  (height)  of  Tosal, 
and  defends  that  position  which  com- 
mands the  fortress ;  the  Isla  Plana,  on 
the  S.  of  the  city,  and  distant  8} 
leagues  from  Oabo  de  Santa  Pola,  is 
1180  yaras  long  by  600  wide,  and  de- 
fended by  the  Torre  de  San  Josi 
*  AnUquUiei. — ^There  are  no  antiqui- 
ties collected  at  Alicante  that  we  know 
of^  although  sereral  perMms  possess 
coins,  medals,  etc  Alicante,  nererre- 
markable  in  history,  is  the  ancients' 
lUice^  erroneously  ascribed  to  Elche, 
and  has  sometimes  also  been  called 
Alona.  The  Lucentum  which  some  au- 
thors mention  as  the  former  name  of 
Alicante,  was  not  this  city,  but  one 
situated  at  Tusal  de  Manises,  dose  to 
Alicante,  where  many  ruins,  coins,  etc., 
have  befn  found.  The  '  Crdnica  de  la 
andad  de  Alicante,'  by  Dr.  Don  Tic 
Bendicho^  MS.  foL,  in  Acad,  de  kHis- 
toria,  J).  107,  dated  1640 ;  and  *niice 
Ilustrada,'  b^un  by  Halt4s  and  finished 
by  Lorenso  Lopei,  both  Jesuits— HS., 
Tory  scarce ; '  Lucentum,  hoy  Alicante,' 
proTing  that  Lucentum  was  the  origin 
of  Tusal  de  Manises,  by  Pio  de  SaboTa, 
Count  of  Lumiares,  Yalenda,  1780, 4to, 
with  cuts ;  <  De  U  Iglesiade  Illic^  hoy 
Bche,'  by  Floret,  in  his  7th  ynL  of 
'Esp.  Sa^prada ;'  *Recopaadon,'etc,  by 
Sans,  Ma,  in  Bib.  Nac  (Coleodon  Bohl 
deFaber). 


DiBBoromr. 

*  CbfutOf.— Of  J^IoMii.— CoL  Barrie, 
Plasa  de  Bamiro^  a  rery  old  resident 
here^  rery  obli^ng;  and  much  re- 
spected. United  Staim  of  Anmiea,--- 
Mr.  Leech,  Oalle  de  la  Princess.  Bd- 
^Miffi.— T.  Carrey.  /)0i»fiiarl^— A. 
Harmsen.  J7o/2aiuf.— Arthur  Salyetd. 
iVusfto.  — Jasper  White  (one  of  the 
most  respectable  and  wealthy  merchants 
in  this  town).  Autio.— Michaelis. 
Sweden,— C.  A.  Dahlander. 

Doctor.— DonYicente  Boman ;  speaks 
French.  Qoler,  the  best  apothecary. 
No  English  ^ysidan. 

JSsiOsnL— Jasper  White  and  Ca 

EX017B8IOH  TO  ElOHI. 

A  Tisit  to  this  town  of  most 
Oriental  character,  situated  amid  a 
forest  of  palm%  ahould  by  no  means  be 
omitted  ;  indeed,  it  is  worth  a  Journey 
to  Alicante.  The  distance  is  4  lesgues 
(12  miles)  from  the  town,  snd  2  lesgues 
(6  mOes)  from  the  sea.  The  drire  is 
charming;  for  thou^  the  country  is 
flat  and  nerer  green,  there  is  a  compen- 
sating noTelty  and  pioturesqneness 
about  the  ruddy  soil,  the  dumps  of 
statdy  palms  and  fig-trees  that  shade 
the  doors  and  arenues  to  Tsngerine- 
looking  houses.  The  conreyance  is 
a  smdl  and  wretched  diligence,  or 
rather  covered  cart,  that  leaTes  Ali- 
cante at  8  A.1C  and  returns  by  8  p.m.  ; 
&res,  20r.  to  go  and  come  back.  An- 
other diL  proceeds  to  Murda,  and 
leaTcs  at  6  in  the  morning  ;  fiures, 
berlina,  88r.,  interior,  82r.,  coup4,  20r. 
It  is  Tsiy  tolerable  indeed;  there  is 
also  an  excellent  cd4ohe-and-foar  at 
the  Hotd  Fonda  dd  Vapor,  which  can 
take  four  peraons  comfortebly,  for  about 
160r.  There  are  also  small  omnibuses 
and  tartanas,  that  may  be  hired  ton  a 
oonrentional  price;  time,  from  24  to 


AUOAMTE — ^KZCUBSIONa 


11 


S|  hoint.  teecfdagto  itefte  of  tbe  road, 
wU^  It  Mi  good. 

BlelM,  Mao  toft  woo  ocigiiiADy  tbe 
oneMBt  Uiee^  Vnt  toeofdag  tooUMr% 
and  witiiiBOfo  likdiliood,  it  woo  nMfoly 
u  Arab  TiDog^  wbooo  name  in  Arabic 
would  BMUi  twmmdim  (wbirtwisdv  and 
alio  tnniooat,  dcMrtor),  (see  'ToMiodo 
la  Lengna  OMtollana,'  by  Dr.  Sebaat 
do  Oofaiiubaai^  ote.  It  ii  ntoatod 
elooe  to  tbe  nTine  formed  bj  tbe  Tina- 
1^^  wbieb  noia  tbion^  it»  and  wbidi 
odled  iBto  ezirtenoe  tbis  cbarniing 
oaaiein  tbe  deaflrt»  at  tbe  Arabt  Qted 
itt  waten  witb  tbetr  otoal  ingeniiity 
for  tbe  irrigatioii  of  tbe  boertot  and 
pafant.  Tbe  workt  to  intuie  tbit  ini- 
gition  to  tbe  plaint  around  Slcbe  are 
a  pmnUwua  (manb),  titoated  about  8 
mike  N.  of  tbe  town,  and  plaoed  aeroti 
a  gorge  of  tbe  Vinalapd  water ;  tbe 
wall  tbat  abntt  up  tbit  gorge  it  68  ft. 
8  in.  bic^  84  ft.  tbick  at  itt  bate,  and 
28  ft.  at  tbe  annimit^  tbnt  forming  a 
temoe  of  8884  inilM  long,  from  one 
bin  to  anotbv.  Tbe  town  it  long  and 
clean,  tbe  boottt  wbitewatbed,  61  one 
or  two  ttoreyt ;  tbe  rood  flat,  witb  few 
openingi  on  tbe  ttreeti^  and  mott  witb 
a  patio  or  open  coort  in  tbe  interior. 
Tbe  oottome  of  tbe  people^  tbeir  fea- 
toret  and  attitodet,  tbe  abeenoe  of 
femalet  in  tbe  ttreeti,  taTO  on  boliday% 
tbe  k^  ttately  palmt,  wbiob,  like  to 
many  jett  of  ^erdnre,  tpring  np  aboTO 
tbe  rooft  between  tbe  edifloei^  are  all 
OrientaL  Tbe  beet  and  only  inn  it 
Posada  Noera  do  Tadeo^  wbere  decent 
bedt  and  rery  cbeap  liring  are  to  be 
obtained,  coupled  witb  ci?ility.  Tbe 
popolation  it  abont  80,000. 

Sifliia.— Tbere  it  little  to  tee  in  tbe 
townittdt  TK$Chwrfki^Sta,  Maria 
bat  a  rery  fine  portico ;  tbe  interior  it 
weU  proportioned  and  not  orer-oma- 
nmted.  Tbe  tabernacle  it  made  of 
preebni  mtrUet^  witb  an  ^Bgy  of  tbe 
"^ligin  of  tbe  Attomption,  wbicb  it 


bold  in  great  Tcneration.  It  it  oftec 
drHted  In  betntiftil  rieb  inanto^  bai 
terend  fine  jewel%  and  It  e?en  a  landed 
proprietor,  for  tbe  finett  palma  era  teen 
in  btrordiardt,  caDed  'Hnertot  do  la 
Yiigen,'  OTer  tbe  entrance  of  wbidi  It 
ber  crown  and  monogram.  Tbe  pro- 
dnce  goet  to  pay  for  tbe  drettet  and 
candlet ;  and  tbe  priettt  and  ■»^rt«««, 
wbo  take  care  of  tbe  image,  baTe  matt 
taid,  and  celebrate  nndonit  on  ber 
tpedal  foetiTal%  ete.  Do  not  omit 
atcending  tbe  belfry  {wmfamano)\  tbe 
bei^t  it  not  great,  tboQ^  tbe  ttepe 
are  mucb  won  and  tlippery.  Tbe 
Tiew  it  rery  pleating  On  tbe  one  tide 
it  teen,  in  tbe  dittence,  tbe  langoon, 
or  albnfen  of  Elcbe,  wbiob  it  tmaller 
tban  tbat  of  Valencia,  bat  equally  well 
ttored  witb  fitb  and  game;  on  tbe 
otber  ara  tbe  Hoertot  do  la  Yiigen  and 
palm  gronndt,  tbe  tawny  barren  plaini 
all  round,  and  below  tbe  many  bundled 
terrtcei^  eaob  a  perfect  picture.  From 
tbii  it  alto  teen  tbe  OaUmdmt^  now  a 
priton,  once  an  alcaiar,  wboee  tower  it 
crowned  by  two  iMonie  figuret  larger 
tban  Ufe,  repretenting  a  man  and  a 
cbild,  wbicb,  by  bidden  coanbinationt 
witb  tbe  dock,  are  made  to  ttiike  tbe 
boun  and  tbe  quartert. 

Faim  Trm9, — Now  proceed  to  ritit 
tbe  gardent  dote  by;  tbe  date-tree 
(/MntcB  daet^tra,  Linn.)  it  called 
bore  jMlmirfr,  and  tbe  fruit  d4HL  To 
protper,  tbey  requira  tbit  tandy  toil, 
well  watered,  and  tbe  warm  genial 
atmotpbere ;  tbey  grow  Ttiy  well,  toO) 
near  ^e  tea,  proTided  it  be  about  tbe 
tame  latitude^  and  are  an  importation 
probably  firom  tbat  portion  of  Barbery 
wbere  tbey  abound  meet,  and  wbicb  it 
tberefore  celled  Biledulgerid.  In  Hoi* 
land't  'Plinie,'  K  ziii  c  4,  it  it  taid 
'Date-treee  lore  a  li^t  and  tandie 
ground,  and  tpedally  (for  tbe  mott 
part)  if  it  tttnd  mucb  upon  a  reine  of 
nitre  betidet.*     Tbe  Arabt  tow  tbt 


13 


AUOAMTB— KZCUB8I0N& 


kernel  abont  the  end  of  Herch,  bat 
they  *nd  the  Spaniards  prefer  mnlti- 
I^ying  them  from  the  dioota  taken 
him  the  roots,  or  Jost  under  the  leayea; 
iheif  are  aheltered  horn  the  son,  and 
watered  often  nntO  they  hare  taken 
root.  This  mode  has  the  great  advan- 
tage of  obtaining  female  j^ants  (which 
are  the  only  ones  that  yield  frnit),  as  a 
lew  males  are  sufficient  to  fecundise  a 
whole  forest'  When,  abont  April  and 
May,  the  male  flowers  are  blooming, 
the  labourers  cut  these  ofl;  and  shake 
the  dust  (pollen  or  larina)  oyer  the 
females,  which  are  thus  impregnated. 
This  artificial  fecundation,  which  is  now 
beingezperimented  upon  in  France,  to 
extend  it  to  com,  eta,  is  not  a  new 
discorery,  and  Theophrastus  mentions 
it  in  his  'History  of  Plants,'  whUe 
Pliny  leaTss  little  or  no  doubt  about 
it.  This  would  show  that  the  andenta 
were  cognisant  of  the  existence  of  sexes 
in  plants  long  before  Unnmis  and 
others. 

The  best  dates  are  the  yellowiah- 
ooloured  ones^  They  ripen  about  No- 
rember,  when  they  hang  in  rich  golden 
dusters  all  round  the  summit  It  ii 
curious  to  watch  the  dexterous  Aor- 
Ulamci  (gardeners),  when  they  gather 
the  fruity  reaching  the  top  of  the 
branchless  trunk  by  means  of  a  rope, 
which  they  pass  loosely  round  their 
waists  and  the  trunk,  resting  on  it  all 
their  body  in  a  horisontal  position, 
while  their  bare  feet,  pressing  the 
tree,  tighten  the  rope,  and  thus  lesTc 
their  hands  free.  Th^  produce  is  abun- 
dant^ aTsraging  4  to  8  arrobas  yearly 
(though  some  exceed  16  and  20),  which 
are  aold  from  8r.  to  40r.  each.  The 
trunk  is  often'  used  for  li^t  timber, 
and  isTcry  hard,  firm,  and  ahnost  incor- 
ruptible.   There  is  scarcely  a  part  of 


the  tree  that  has  not  some  use,  slthougb 
the  Arabs  deriye  greater  utility  from 
them  than  the  Spaniards.  The  male 
leaTcs  or  palms  on  the  summit  are  tied 
together  firom  April  to  June,  and 
blanched,  as  gardeners  say;  that  is, 
by  this  continued  compression,  they 
lose,  so  to  speak,  the  circulation  of 
their  sap  and  become  whitish.  They 
are  then  cut^  and  sold  separately  on 
Palm  Sunday — some  twisted  into 
shapes  of  crowns,  witb  ribbons,  etc. — 
and  when  blessed  by  the  priest  are 
hung  up  at  the  balconies  and  orer  the 
doors,  and  taken  about  on  Palm  Sun- 
day processions. 

Pilgrims^  formerly,  as  is  known,  were 
holy  tramUirMf  who  riiited  one  parti- 
cular shrine  and  then  returned  home, 
but  the  palnur  made  it  hii  sole  pro- 
fession to  Tisit  several  ahrines,  and 
lived  on  charity ;  and  as  Jerusalem  was 
one  of  them,  tiiey  used,  once  there^  to 
make  a  palm  staff  mnd  go  with  it  thence 
about  the  world. 

The  defective  palm-leaves  are  sent  to 
dgar  manufactories  to  be  converted  into 
cigarettes — often  mistaken,  together 
with  the  maise  leaf,  for  the  genuine 
Guatemala  pajillas.  The  annual  crop 
averagee — Palm-leaves  sold  on  Palm 
Sunday,  £2000  ;  dates,  £14,000.  This 
old  Catholic  custom  is  tending  to  wear  off. 
Visit  the  palm-plantation  of  one  of  the 
most  intelligent  pabn-growers  at  Elche, 
whose  name  is  almost  as  long  as  the 
highest  of  hii  trees  Don  Qaspar  Bo- 
teUs  de  Pomares.  He  has  the  best 
nuiseiy  here,  and  sells  them,  when  of 
8  to  5  years  old,  fbr  about  lOr.  to  12r. 
each,  journey  to  Alicante  induded, 
whence  they  can  be  sent  to  Maraeillea 
by  Lopes'a  steamers  for  a  trifle.  Cotton 
is  grown  here,  but  in  small  and  inaigni- 
cant  quantity. 


IS 


ALMADEN 


Proriaee  ol  Oimimd  BmL     Dioom 
of  2WM*— 74S1  iahdk 

BoQl— ,  OoiiT. — 1.  From  Midrid, 
lij  the  Madrid  to  LkbcAimU  Hm  ;  two 
tnint  »-d^.  Book  througfaottt ;  time, 
8|  fanL  Fum,  let  oL,  166r.  91c ;  Sd 
d.  ^Sdfrom  Medrid  to  Meni^neree 
by  mail  train),  lS7r.  S7e.  Buffet  at 
Aleaar,  at  Manmmunea,  Branch  line 
toOadii;  the  diatanoe  between  Madrid 
and  Almaden  ia— Madrid  to  Cindad 
BeaL  6S  kiL :  Cindad  Beal  to  Almaden. 
114 ;  total,  177  kiL  A  bnuieh  line  ia 
in  contemplation  between  Oaetoera  and 
Oofdora. 

SL  From  Ooido?a — riding — roada 
bad,  and  aeoommodatioii  wone. 


tt  fttigmmt  3 


Cordova  lo  VDbrta  . 
Vilhamia  dd  Dnqm 
VindelotPfedracbes 


6 

S 

a 
a 

3 
It 


The  ride  ia  o?€r  a  wfld  ooontry,  in- 
tereatiog  alike  to  botaniat  and  miner- 
•logirt.  Sleep  let  ni^t  at  YillarU ; 
9d  night  aleep  at  Yiao  de  loe  Pedrochea. 
The  ibat  day'a  ride  ia  through  the 
•Mtraa  and  pine^oreeta.  At  Yiao  there 
la  abondant  mica-alate,  followed  hj 
granite.  There  ia  a  bridle-road  from 
Ahnadn  to  SeriOe,  Ij  FnoDte  de  Oan- 
toe,  Araoena,  and  Rio  Tinto ;  diatanoe 
about  50  leagoea. 

Inn.— At  Almaden  the  inn  ia  Terj 
wretdied.  Get,  before  yon  leare  for 
Almaden,  lettera  of  introdvotion  to  the 
•QperintandentaoftliemiMi,  and  lodge 
in  aome  priTate  honaei  The  Tillage 
ia  petfeeU J  nnintenating ;  a  good  hoa- 


pital  and  aareral  aehool%  mining  and 
othefiL 

Qniokatlrer  Minao.— The  qaiekaQ- 
Ter  minee  of  Almaden  are  conrideied 
to  be  the  oldeat  known  in  Borope,  aa 
afSofding  moat  enriooa  matter  of  in* 
fonnatioo  to  adence,  and,  what  ia 
more^  aa  the  richeat  in  the  world. 
Thej  are  deemed  inezhanatibl^  and 
are  a  aonroe  of  great  rerenne  to  the 
State,  to  which  thej  belong.  The 
principal  Tein  or  flow  aetnall  j  wo^ed 
ii  about  S6  ft  deep^  and  ia  foimd  amid 
a  aoil  compoaed  of  rocka  of  qnarti  and 
atrata  of  achiat,  Tirgin  qniekeilTer  being 
alao  found  in  pyritea  and  horaatein ; 
S66  metiea  deep  have  been  already 
reached.  The  ore  yields,  on  an  aTer- 
age,  10  per  cent  qnickrilTer.  The 
minee  produce  200,000  qointala,  out 
of  which  20,000  quintala  of  qoickailTer 
are  extracted.  Now,  deducting  ex- 
penaea  of  tranaport,  amelting,  etc,  the 
net  rerenne  ia  about  £175,000,  the 
quintal  being  aold  for  £12.  The  minee 
employ  about  4000  men.  The  work 
goee  on  night  and  day.  The  arched 
stone  galleriea  and  the  wella  called 
tomoe  are  well  deaerring  of  doae  atten- 
tion ;  the  machineiy  ia  not  worthy  of 
the  rest 

.Book$  pf  Srfermct,^!,  Minaa  de 
Almaden,'  by  Casimo  de  Prado;  Ma- 
drid, 184«. 

2.  Plana  and  Mapa  of  the  Fflonea 
(reins)  of  Almaden,  in  Hoppensaok*a 
'  Ueber  den  Beighau  in  Spanien. '  1794. 

8.  'D^taila  QMog.  sur  Almaden, 
par  Ssquerrm  del  Bayo,'  BulL  of  French 
QeoL  Soc,  roL  X.  p.  107  (1830). 

4.  'Sobre  laa  Minaa  de  Almaden,' 
by  Balael  CaboniUaa  in  'Analea  de 
Minaa,' roLL  1858. 

5.  '  Dicdonario,'  etc.  by  Paaoual 
Madoi»  etc,  ToL  iL  p.  21. 


u 


ALMERIA. 


Oipttil  of  prorinoe  of  Mme  name. 
Popoktioii  27,0S0. 

BoutM,  Oonr. — 1.  From  Gnnada  by 
Quadix ;  dktance,  254  iMgOM*  There 
is  a  nDAll  diligenoe  called  a  gondola, 
whieh  holda  eight  people^  and  perfonna 
that  Jonroey  in  8  daya,  stopping  at 
Gnadix  for  the  first  nigh^  and  at  Venta 
de  DoAa  Maria.  FortheroadtoOoadiz, 
see  Mureia.  The  road  ia  rery  bad, 
especially  in  winter,  when  it  ia  often 
impracticable ;  it  ia  also  nninterestinc^ 
thon^  the  Tillages  hsTe  all  soft,  roman- 
tic names  of  If  oorish  origin,  such  as 
Alboladns,*  Alcvbillas,  Qador,  Benaha- 
doz.  For  thoee  who  prefer  riding  we 
subjoin  another  itinerary. 

Crm$$mdm  U  AhuHm,  ritUm^i  distmttet,  tsl 
Umgtut,  3  tUtys,  #r  a  Itmg  tntt. 


To  Fargnt 

HneftM  d«  SftotiUiJiat 
Cruidel  Puerto 
Venta  dolMoUnillo^ 
Diesaa    . 
Venta  del  Rio  . 
Guadix     .       .       . 

Sleep. 
Ventorillo  del  BamnqolDo 
OcaBa      .... 
AlcnbiOas 

Sleep. 
Gador      .... 
Benahadux 
AloMiia  .... 


\ 

t 

i| 
i» 
i| 
i» 
3^ 

3 

a 

4 

>l 

3 

I 


%  From  If  nrda.  Unless  proceeding 
to  Guadix  to  wait  for  and  go  by  the 
abore  Na  1  gondola,  we  know  of  no 
direct  serrioe ;  if  riding  stop  at  Baza, 
and  go  direct  across  to  Join  the  Na  1 
road.  8.  From  Alicante  and  Oartagena, 
Cadis,  and  Gibraltar,  thero  aro  occa- 
iicmal  steamers  that  touch  at  Almeria ; 
they  aro  advertised  in  local  papers,  and 
may  be  ayeraged  about  once  a  fortnight : 


time  by  steamer  from  Cartagena,  IShra. 
to  18  hrs;  from  Malaga,  about  the 
ssme. 

Hotels.-- Fonda  del  Vapor,  and  Ma- 
lagneBai 

Ooneral  Dosoription.— Almeria,  the 
Al-Maiiyat  of  the  Arabs,  is  situated  on 
the  sea^oro  snd  in  a  Talley  formed 
by  two  hills  crowned  by  a  castle  and  an 
alcaiaba ;  it  ia  surrounded  by  high  walls 
of  most  picturesque  appearance  that 
extend  him  the  sea  to  the  hill ;  then 
follow  the  undulating  ground,  and  from 
the  Tslley  ascend  to  ti^e  other  hill  and 
back  to  the  city.  These  walls,  with 
their  cubes  or  towers,  aro  an  excellent 
specimen  of  medi»Tal  and  Moorish  mili- 
tary architecturo  and  engineering ;  the 
forts  still  subsist,  though  the  Al-Kazaba 
is  in  niins,and  the  Tomtm  MEcmeiu^e, 
that  oTcrlooks  yawning  precipices,  has 
better  escaped  the  unrelenting  hatred  of 
the  riTal  Goth  and  of  time,  and  was  eren 
repaired  in  the  16th  oentury.  Its  two 
Gothic  iafades  are  deoonted  with  the 
escutcheons  of  the*Catholic  kings,  and 
it  contains  sereral  low  and  sombre  halls 
and  corridon  with  miradont. 

The  pTOTinee  of  Almeria  ia  not  yery 
prosperous,  and  yet  the  soil  is  rich,  and 
yields  plentiful  crops  of  msiae  and  corn. 
At  Adra  the  sugar-cane  abounds ;  at 
Albanchei  and  Rioja  excellent  oranges 
and  lemons  jut  produced,  and  many 
Tarieties  of  American  fruits  grow  almost 
spontaneously  in  the  plains  around  Al- 
meria itselC  Sereral  Tery  rich  mines 
aro  found  in  the  different  sierras  which 
intersect  it  in  erery  direction.  In  that 
of  Gata,  K  of  Almeria,  jaspers,  agates, 
basaltic  banks.  In  Sierra  Nerada,  W. 
of  the  prorince,  aro  the  celebrated  quar- 
ries of  Macael  marble.  In  Siem  Ca- 
breremaybe  found  antimony,  malachite, 
gypsum,  msgnetic  iron,  etc    The  Sierra 


ALBIERIA. 


15 


Almagren,  E.  of  proTiooa^  teems  with 
silver. 

The  climste  is  proTerbisUy  mild,  end 
winter  is  not  known,  except  in  the  ridge 
of  hills  to  N.,  where  snow  often  falls, 
end  the  cold  is  strongly  felt  Thehest 
is  ezoeadTe  in  summer,  but  in  winter 
the  thermometer  seldom  falls  under  18 
Ont  64  Fahr. 

PnUio  Schools  are  scarce  and  ill-at- 
tended ;  about  1.40  per  cent  receive  any 
instruction,  bat  crimes  are  not  the  more 
f^nentfor  that,  being  theoonseqoences 
more  of  violent  pasiions  onre^nined 
than  of  sordid  views  and  premeditation. 

Almeria,  once  in  the  iniddle  ages  the 
rival  of  Malaga,  has  now  dwindled  into 
utter  insignificance,  and  the  only  sight  is 

The  OathwlraL^This  edifioe,  of 
about  the  end  of  the  16th  century,  par- 
takes of  the  character  of  the  fortifica- 
tions ;  four  msssive  and  once  formidably 
baUt  and  armed  towers  are  placed  at 
its  angles  ;  the  apse  has  the  ^pe  of  a 
polygon,  aiid  its  walls  are  crowned  with 
battlements.  In  1617  the  warlike  chap- 
ter rebuilt  the  military  work%  if  they 
may  be  so  called,  of  the  cathedral, 
spending  80,000  marvedis  upon  them  ; 
and  when,  on  September  28, 1622,  an 
earthquake  had  battered  the  whole  edi- 
fice, they  lost  no  time^  and  spared  neither 
money  nor  workmen,  in  repairing  their 
walls.  The  principal  facade  is  placed 
between  two  buttresses  or  pilasters^ 
that  bear  on  their  basements  alto-relievo 
angels  of  indifferent  execution,  with 
c^tals  compooed  of  mascarons  and 
Jarrm,  Between  them  runs  a  gallery 
with  arabeeque  open  work  ;  the  portal 
is  effective  uid  of  quadrangular  liiape, 
much  and  ill  ornamented  ;  the  second 


or  upper  stage  is  ornamented  with  an 
imperial  escutcheon,  the  statues  of  St 
Peter  and  St  PMil,  and  a  Virgin  in  a 
niche.  The  imttrior  belongs  to  thi 
period  of  Gothic  Decline,  the  c^tals  of 
the  pillars  being  almost  Corinthian  in 
style.  In  achapel  situated  in  the  apse 
is  a  rich  marble  tomb  of  a  great  b^e- 
ftetor  of  this  church,  called  Fray  Diego 
da  y illola.  It  is  on  Uie  whole  of  meagre 
appearanoe.  The  tialU  are  the  work  of 
Juan  de  Orea,  and  the  date  1668-60 ; 
they  are  elaborately  sculptured,  but 
wi^out  much  skill  or  taste.  This 
church  has  no  definite  style,  but  is  rather 
a  medley  of  several 

The  other  churches,  San  Domingo 
and  San  Pedro^  are  uninteresting. 

The  Baniode  loe  Huertoe  is  the  most 
populous. 

The  promenade  on  the  muelle  or  jetty 
is  pleasant,  and  the  view  from  it  of  the 
port  and  bay  picturesque. 

BookB  itf  R^€renc$,'-Fat  the  na- 
tural history  (ndnendogy)  readers  may 
see  Etquerra  del  Bayo's  notes  '  On  the 
Province  of  Almeria,'  in  '  Neues  Jahr- 
boch  fHr  Mineralogie  und  Gedogie* 
(von  Leombard  und  Broom),  1841,  p. 
886. 

1.  Pellic^  and  Haestres,  'Apuntes 
geognosticos  sobre  la  parte  Oriental  de 
U  Prov.  de  Almeria' («AnaL  da  Mines *), 
vol  iL  1841. 

a.  Paillette's '  Appendice  an  M4moiie 
BUT  les  Minerals  de  plomb  des  environs 
da  Almeria'  *  Ann.  des  Mines '(French) 
4th  series,  vol  ii.  p.  887  (1841X 

8.  In  the  'Boletin  Oficial  de  JGnas,' 
p.  409, 1846;  AmatdeU Torre's  'Apun- 
tee  Geog.  y  Mineros^'  etc,  on  Granada 
and  Almeria»  eto. 


16 


ANDALUSIA. 


The  kingdom  of  Andnlaiia,  the  eipo- 
ekUj  IkToored  Und»  La  Ti^rra  tU 
Maria  SamMma^  It  now  diTidedinto 
ti^t  proTinoes,  Tis. — 

Pop.  Pop. 

478,920    Ooidofft      868,667 

448,669    Jaan.    .    862,486 

441,404    AlmorU.    816,460 


Serille  . 
Malaga. 
Ofmnada 
Obdis    . 


891,806    HuelTa  .    178,628 
T6tal    .    .    2,489,841- 

All  tlieae  prorincea  are  nnder  the  Jndi- 
dal  Joriadiotion  of  the  Aadienciaa  of 
Seyille.and  Granada,  and  eccleaiaatically 
nnder  the  anfingana  of  Serille  and 
Qranada. 

Thej  oonatitate  a  eapitaniA  general, 
whoee  oentre  ia  Seville,  and  which  ia 
labdivided  into  aa  many  comandandaa 
generalea  aa  there  are  dvil  gobumos 
or  prorinoea. 

Olimatd.— Thia  ia  raried.  Granada 
and  Ronda  are,  from  their  altitade  and 
prozimitj  to  the  anow-eapped  moon- 
taina,  well  auited  for  the  anmmer 
montha,  whilit  the  genial  temperature 
of  Malaga^  Serille,  Cordova,  etc.,  makea 
them  the  fittest  residences  for  winter. 
On  the  whole,  the  climate  much  re- 
aemhles  that  of  the  N.  and  portiona  of 
the  W.  ooasta  of  Africa,  from  which 
Sonth  AiMJalnaU  waa  probably  aevered 
at  Gibraltar  by  some  great  geological 
convaltion.  Suffice  it  to  state  that  the 
palm,  the  sngar-cane,  orange^  dtron, 
are  among  the  commonest  plants ;  that 
com  and  barley  ara  reaped  when  th«y 
are  Jost  about  to  flower  elaewhere,  and 
these  examples^  with  many  others^  will 
convince  our  readers,  if  they  are  not 
already  aware  of  the  fact,  that  in  climate 
Andaluaia  haa  been  most  especially 
favoured  by  Providence. 

The  cities  ara  all  of  very  great  intereat 
to  artist,  painter,  ecdeaiologist,  and 
antiquary,  for  all  this  country  is  still 
foil  of  the  most  glorious  monuments  of 


taste,  grandeur,  and  engineering  aldll 
which  the  Moan  erected  during  their 
sway  of  aeven  oenturiea.  Seville  and  ita 
alcasar,  cathedral,  andgiralda ;  Granada 
and  the  Alhambra ;  Oordova  and  ita 
wonderful  mosque,  cannot  fail  to  attract 
dose  attention  and  untiring  admiration. 
As  for  the  picturesque^  Ronda  and 
Alhama,  Sierra  Nevada,  the  Alp^jarraa, 
etc,  will  suffioe. 

The  pec^le  themsdvesaranottheleaat 
interesting  featura  in  Andalusia  ;  they 
ara  the  Irish,  theGascons,  the  Athenians 
of  Spain ;  with  them  all  is  gay,  light, 
wit,  love,  doloefarniente ;  lifeiapleasure, 
the  bull-fight,  pdar  la  jNwa»  puff  the  d- 
garrita  Go  therefora  to  study  this  type 
wherait  isfoundinall  itsunaophisticated 
redness.  Repair  to  the  fain  which  ara 
annually  hdd  at  Hairena  and  Ronda, 
whera  you  will  see  the  majeza  in  all  its 
glory,  and  sceneswill  jHresentthemsdves 
worthy  of  antique  vases  and  baad-relievi 
— the  song  in  the  cort^o,  the  dance  on 
the  here,  and  many  othera  They  have, 
withal,  thdr  dark  ddea  of  character — 
ezaggoration,  superstition,  insurmount- 
able ladneaa,  and  middling  courage 
when  massed  together ;  but  their  gene- 
rodty,  verging  on  ostentation,  and  tiidr 
gentlemanly  mannera,  ara  remarkable. 
However  low  in  station,  the  Andalus 
may  be  *  canaille^'  but  he  cannot  be 
vulgar  ;  for  that  is  never  to  be  found 
whera  Uiera  is  a  blue  heaven,  a  bright 
glowing  sun,  no  starving;  and  a  guitar 
Th^  beauty  of  the  women  ia  proverbiaL 

In  a  word— 

• 

La  terrm  aM>ll«  •  Beta,  e  dikttosa, 
Simili  a  M  gU  abitacor  produce. 

The  excellent  methods  of  irrigation 
and  agricultnra  introduced  by  the  Araba 
have  been  neglected,  and  hera  ara  aeen 
despobladoa  or  wastes,  some  of  2  or  8 
leagues  in  extent,  whera  not  a  house, 


ANDALUSIA. 


17 


not  a  beast  or  tree,  aaro  the  lentisk  and 
palmito^  are  to  be  teen.  The  principal 
riTera  are  the  GoadalqniTir  (the  Betis 
OUrifeia  of  ^Martial),  which  has  for  tri- 
bntaries  the  Sanlncar,  Biar,  Hoelva, 
and  the  Oonil ;  the  Ghiadairs,  which 
the  summer  heat  dries  up  ererj  year ; 
the  Gaodalete,  which  flows  thnra^  the 
Sienm  de  Ronda  into  the  Bay  of  Gadiz 
in  an  almost  parallel  direction  to  the 
Onadalquivii*,  which  rises  in  the  Sierra 
Kerada,  and  whose  coarse  is  of  abont 
400  mOes.  The  mountains  are — the 
Sierra  Nerada,  Sierra  Horena  (the 
Hontes  Ifariani  of  the  ancients),  and 
their  ramifications.'  The  mineral  wealth 
of  these  proTinoes  is  Tory  great,  and 
TDushish  was  the  Eldorado  to  which 
Solomon  used  to  send  his  ships  for  gold 
snd  silTer.  It  was  called  iiao  Turde- 
tania  before  the  Carthaginians  founded 
colonies  on  all  its  shores  on  the  If  edi- 
tenanean.  Tartessus  ii  indiflferently 
applied  to  Cadis  or  Qadir  (Ayienus),  to 
sereral  other  dties,  and  eren  to  the 
fi0tisof8trabo(pil48).  TheTanhish 
of  Scripture  was,  according  to  Betham, 
Bochait,  Florez,  and  otherSi  applied  to 
all  the  8.W.  region  from  Uie  Guadal- 
quirir  to  the  Straits.  The  Romans 
drore  sway  the  Carthaginians,  and  It 
became  a  senatorial  proTince  after  the 
capture  of  ScTille  by  Julius  Onsar  {43 
B.a)  Under  the  Bomans,  the  citiea  of 
Sq{a,  Serille,  Cordova,  Cadii,  ItaUca, 
etc.,  rose  to  great  importsnce.  At  the 
doimiall  of  the  Soman  Empire^  the 
Vandals,  on  their  way  to  Africa,  sacked 
the  citiea  and  burned  the  crops.  Bstica 
then  took  the  nams  of  Yandalusis, 
which  was  preserred  by  the  Arabs  when 
they,  in  their  turn,  inraded  it ;  though 
some  authors  derive  the  name '  Belld-al- 
Andslosh,'  from  the  'Land  of  the  West* 
It  then  becamean  empire  called  the  Kali- 
fste  of  Cordova.  At  the  downfall  of  the 
Ummeyih  dynasty,  Andalusia  was  di- 
vided into  the  kingdoms  of  Granada, 
Jaen,  Seville,  and  Cwdova,  of  which  the 


flnt  was  the  last  to  fall  into  the  hands 
of  the  Catholic  kings,  who  added  these 
kinffdUmu  to  that  of  Onstile. 

Travelling  is  easy  no^*    We  suggest 
the  following  routes : — 


f  7#W|  Cptl^iMf^ jTUH  MmMb^wm^^tpriM^  0^ 

Seville.       ; 

.    R.aiidd.,3daj«. 

Jeres    . 

Cadb    .       .       . 

:    \l 

Gibnliv 
Roadft  . 

.    St.rkili« 

M«Ug»        .       . 

»       .    Ride  and  d. 

Alhenui 

.       .    Ride. 

Gnuiada 

.       .    Ride. 

vSm 

.       .    D. 

.    D.  and  r. 

•d  T0mr,jirmm  Qiirmilmr,  mmUdimg  tkg  rUti, 

CaS»  .  .       .    St  iday  toviiUit 

R»»  w  .f» 
•.    ^..jdayt 

.  R.  edayt 

.  D.  sday 

Jaen'  .       .       .       .  D.  s    „ 

Granada  .  D.  s^y% 

.  D.  and  cL,  i  day 

.  St 


CofdoTS 
Andi|)ar 


Malaga 
Gibnksr 


ft 
•• 
tt 
t» 

n 


This  portion  of  Spain  may  thus  be 
easily  visited,  and  at  the  seaports  and 
Seville,  the  constant  flow  of  English 
visitors  has  introduced  comforts.  Ths 
fm/ui^  Moorith  monuminta  are  at->lst, 
Granada;  2d,  Cordova;  8d,  Seville. 
TJU  fiiyui  cAitfxAef  are  at  —  1st, 
SeviUe ;  2d,  Granada;  8d,  Jaen  ;  4th, 
Malaga.  Th4  moti  pidMTWfitA  mmtrji 
at— lat,  road  between  Gibraltar  and 
Ronda ;  2d,  road  between  Malaga  and 
Granada,  by  Alhama,  and  also  by  Loja, 
l^aqjaron,  the  Bay  of  Cadis,  Motril, 
and  Gibraltar.  With  respect  to  mines, 
forests,  and  agriculture,  we  must  draw 
attention  to  the  copper-mines  of  Rio 
Unto,  the  quicksilver  at  Almadm, 
I^osphate  of  lime  at  Logrosan,  lead  at 
Linsres,  marbles  of  Macael  9xA  Pur- 
ohena,  lead  at  Adra,  iron  at  Marbella ; 
the  forests  of  Segura,  the  sugar-cane 
plantations  of  General  Concha  between 
Marbella  and  Gibraltar,  the  vines  of 
Jeres,  the  raisin-making  at  Malaga,  the 
sslinas  of  Cadis.  The  dress  ii  most 
picturesque,  but  too  well  known  to  need 
description. 


18 


ARAQON. 

(THB  SPANISH  FYKBNSBS.) 


This  former  Sdno  (kingdom)  his  been 
diyided  into  the  three  provinces  of 
Zsngost,  Hnescft,  tnd  Temel,  which 
smn  up  a  population  of  880, 648  inhabit- 
ants. Its  nadens  was  the  former  king- 
dom of  Sobrarbe  (Sobre-Arbe),  which, 
situated  in  the  heart  of  the  Spanish 
Pyrenees,  occupied  a  space  of  12  leagues 
long  bj  10  wide.  To  this  and  to  the 
mountains  of  Asturias  the  yanquished 
Goths  fled  for  refoge.  Here  in  time 
scTend  petty  states  arose,  the  prize  of  a 
bold  chieftain  ;  and  in  the  11th  century 
Sancho  IL,  whoee  sway  now  extended 
over  Aragon,  which  had  grown  out  and 
around  Sobrarbe  and  Navaira,  gave  these 
separately  to  his  sons,  one  of  whom, 
Kamiro^  thus  became  the  first  king.  It 
was  in  tiie  12th century  annexed  bymar- 
riage  to  Catalonia,  and  was  goyemed  by 
its  counts  until  1479,  when  the  msr- 
risge  took  place  of  its  king,  Ferdinsnd 
the  CsthoUc,  with  Isabella  of  OsstUe. 
The  Aragonese  haTe  been  remarkable  in 
history  for  their  loTe  of  independence 
and  public  liberty,  and  a  law  in  the 
fueros  of  Sobrarbe  was  to  the  effect  that 
'  whenerer  the  king  should  infringe  the 
fueros,  any  other  might  be  elected  in  his 
stead,  eren  should  he  be  a  Pagan.'  The 
authority  of  the  king  was  limited  by 
that  of  the  justida,  or  high  magistrate, 
named  by  the  people  to  watch  orer 
their  liberties,  and  who  was  the  link 
between  the  king  and  the  popular 
asBcmblies. 

Angon  is  a  most  fertile  country, 
though  sadly  depopulated  Bivers  in- 
tersect  It  in  all  directions,  and  there  are 
plains  of  oonnderable  beauty  around 
scTeral  large  towns.  Com,  barley,  the 
olire,  and  the  yine^  are  much  and  very 
snocessAilly  cultifated.  The  woollens 
of  Venasque  and  Albarracin  are  good. 


and  the  silkworm  has  of  late  been  rtrj 
successfully  introduced.  The  mineral 
riches  are  not  Tery  important  The 
principal  mining  districts  are  : — 

Tenid— tulphor. 

Torres,  RemoUnot    t^lr 

Grustau,  Grau»— ooalc 

Jaca,  Canfranc,  Hedio— marbles. 

Alcanix^'aluin. 

Cetrillas,  Daroca— je<- 

AlmoiOat  Torres,  Nogwera    copper. 

Calcena,  Venaaque,  Bieba— «ilver. 

Zoma,  Venaaqoe,  Salient    lead. 

The  Aragonese  are  a  cold,  serious, 
obstinate,  daring  race.  There  is  little 
or  no  industry,  letters  and  arts  are  nei- 
ther studied  nor  practised  ;  they  are 
solely  agriculturists,  soldiers,  sports- 
men, smugglers,  and  guerrilleros|Nir  ex- 
ceUenee,  The  Spanish  Pyrenees  are  to 
the  trayeller  one  of  the  many  hidden 
treasures  in  Spain,  for  they  haye  seldom 
been  trodden  saye  by  Uie  smuggler, 
the  flying  Oarliit,  and  the  buck  or 
isard.  l^e  scenery  is  yeiy  grsnd,  the 
plants  met  with  of  great  yariety,  and 
some  spedes  little  known.  There  is 
good  sport  and  angling ;  the  bear,  the 
wolf^  and  the  cabra  montesa  or  isard 
(ibex),  abound.  Trout  and  salmon 
thriye  unmolested,  and  there  is  here  a 
yirgin  land  alike  for  geologists,  slpen- 
stodcs,  and  artists.  The  best  season  to 
yisit  the  Spanish  Pyrenees  is  summer 
and  spring.  The  latter  must  be  ayoided 
by  mountaineers,  on  account  of  the 
ayalanchea. 

The  principal  riyersare  the  Jiloca, 
Jalon,  Cinca,  O^ega.  The  cities  in 
Aragon  haye  no  yery  great  interest  for 
the  artist;  and  Aragon  has  produced 
but  yery  few,  and  mostly  indifferent, 
architects,  sculptors,  and  painters.  The 
finest  churches  are  at  Zar^josa  and 
Huesca;  the  cities  are  poor  in  menu- 


ABAGON. 


19 


atattM,  tod  thoM  of  litU«  importaiioe. 
ZtngonnervrthelHi liM  a grat ouM 
of  tbe  16th  md  17th  omtoriei.  We 
•hall  adTiae  the  genenl  tooriat  to  limit 
Ua  Tint  to  ZaIl^on^  and,  majbe,  Hu- 
eeoa ;  the  eoelenologiat  eaa  extend  hit 
inTWtigetioni  to  Jaea,  Temel,  Daroca, 
Barbaatro.  The  lailroad  croewa  the 
moetintflfeattngportioiiof  Aragon;  the 
earraten%  or  h^h  roade,  are  very  ill 
kept;  the  moontain-peaees,  often  im- 
.  piaeticahK  reqoiiing  a  guide ;  and  ac- 
oommpdRtioiM  limited  to  hoveb  and 
mianaUe  poawiiJM  (inna).  For  routee 
aeroee  the  Pjrrenees  «id  monntain- 
pawBi^  heighti^  eto.,  eee  Zaragosa  and 
Baroelon%  and  Jaca,  Venaeqne^  Gbn- 
franc^  fiarbaetroi  Hneaea,  ete. 

The  Pyrenean  range  in  its  largeet 
extent  stretchea  from  Gape  Greux  on 
the  Mediterranean  to  Cape  Finieterre 
on  the  Galieian  coast,  a  distance  of 
abont  060  milei^  comprisiog  the  Asta- 
rian  portions,  as  well  as  isthmian  part 
of  the  chain,  which  latter  forms  the 
mountain -wall  dividing  Spain  from 
Frsnce ;  the  mean  altitode  of  this  is 
6000  ft,  the  maximnm  height  is  at- 
tained almost  midwaj  where  the  Pic 
de  Nithoa  rises  11,168  ft  abore  the 
sea.  Between  this  and  the  Pic  da 
Midi  d*Oasan,  70  m.  W.,  are  the  high- 
est peaks  of  the  chain,  many  of  them 
abore  10,000  ft,  and  four  or  fire  little 
inferior  to  Pic  de  N^thou.  From  a 
comparatiTe  surrey  of  the  chain  on  the 
Spanish  and  French  sides,  it  will  be 
seen  that  while  four-fifths  of  the  waters 
that  rise  on  the  French  side  hare  their 
outpouring  in  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  as 
trilmtariea  of  the  Adour  and  Garonne, 
all  the  streams  on  the  Spanish  side  are 
reoeiTed  by  the  £bro  and  flow  into  the 
Meditenanean.  The  highest  moun- 
tains on  the  Spanish  frontier  are  Monte 
Peidido  (Mont  Perdu),  10,994  ft ;  the 
granite  peaks  of  Peseta,  11,046  ft  ; 
and  K^thoo,  11,168  .  ft     From  the 


hi^er  moontains  spars  are  thrown  out 
on  either  side  80  or  80  m.  towards  the 
plain.  There  are  but  five  carriage- 
roads  across  the  chain,  all  lying  to  tiie 
extreme  S.  or  W.  The  gaps  (j^ertoe), 
with  their  French  equiyalents,  eol, 
brSeks,  Aour^iM^  etc.,  in  the  main  wall 
between  the  two  countries  are  generally 
higher  than  the  ordinary  Alpine  passes, 
and  present  exceedingly  wild  and^^rand 
scenery;  the  cirques  or  orUs,  large, 
natural  rocky  ba^ns,  hare  a  peculiar 
beauty  not  to  be  found  in  the  Alps ; 
but  on  the  Spanish  side^  being  destitute 
of  snow,  by  reason  of  the  steeper  de- 
diyity  on  this  side,  they  do  not  present 
the  same  aspect  with  those  on  the 
French  side.  The  scenery,  on  the 
whole,  together  with  the  dress  of  the 
peasants,  the  style  of  houses  and 
churches^  the  botany,  etc,  tend  to 
establish  a  curioua  but  real  contrast 
between  the  two  sides.  There  is  better 
sport  in  the  Spanish  Pyrenees ;  and  the 
mineral-springs,  of  which  Pantioosf  is 
the  most  celebrated,  are  perhaps  supe- 
rior to  those  issuing  on  the  French  side; 
but  the  want  of  oommunicationa,  the 
wretched  accommodation  at  thelto^/iMi- 
mmUt,  and  abeence  of  the  most  ordinary 
comforts,  are  all  ao  many  drawbacks  to 
a  journey  through  the  Spanish  Pyre- 
nees. We  haTs  at  '  Barcelona '  enu- 
merated the  most  important  routes 
from  the  French  Pyrenees  on  that  side 
into  CataluAa,  and  describe  at  Zara- 
gosa thoee  which  comprise  the  main 
routea  leading  to  Aragon  and  Nararre ; 
the  former  therefore  treating  of  the  £., 
and  the  latter  of  the  W.  range.  The  ex- 
cursions do  not  usually  exceed  four  daya 
The  best  and  safest  guides  to  con- 
sult *nd  from' which,  b^des  personal 
experience,  we  have  derived  the  above 
information,  are— Dr.  Jjambron'a  excel- 
lent and  detafled  work  on  the  '  Pyre- 
nees of  Luchon ' ;  the  portable,  condse^ 
and  most  practical  '  Guide  to  the  Fyra* 


80 


ARAKJUBZ. 


neei)'  which  was  written  etpedallj  for 
the  nee  of  moontaineen  by  Chmrles 
Paoke,  Esq.,  with  inapa,  diagrams,  etc, 
and  Joanne's  '  Itin^raire  Deeeriptif  et 
Historique  dee  P7r6n^'  1  roL,  with 
maps. 

Dnu  or  Costume  of  ih$  Aragonese, 
— It  is  not  nnlike  the  Yalendan,  and 
diflTers  from  any  other  in  Spain.  The 
men  wear  knee-breeches^  generally  of 
the  common  ootton  Telvet  called  pana, 
ornamented  abont  the  pockets  and  ex- 
tremities with  filigree  buttons  and  old 
medios  reales  in  sUrer,  blue  woollen 
stockings  and  sandals.  The  npper 
man  is  clad  in  a  black  TelTet  waistcoat, 
which  is  a  substitute  for  a  coat  or 
jacket,  decorated  also  with  filigree  but- 
tons, and  Tery  short,  so  as  to  show  the 
wide  sOk  or  cotton  red  or  yivid  blue 
(iija,  which  is  a  whole  oae  ds  voyage, 
containing  and  concealing  dgars,  na- 
T^as,  money,  etc  The  doudied  hat 
is  not  often  worn,  and  a  coloured  ker- 
chief is  fastened  like  a  band  or  diadem 
round  their  foreheads^  learing  the  upper 
portion  oXfnKo:  the  mantas  in  which 
they  are  most  gracefully  draped  an  of 


various  colours,  white  streaked  with 
bine  and  black  being  much  worn.  The 
women's  dress  is  not  nearly  so  pictur- 
esque nor  complicated  ;  it  is  Teiy  like 
that  of  the  C«talonian  women.  Ob- 
serre  their  antique  ear-rings,  crosses, 
rosaries^  etc 

Booke  of  Btferenoe. — ^1.  '  Anales  de 
k  Corona  de  Aragon,'  by  Ger.  Zurita, 
Chronistadel  Reino^  Zaragosa,  Bermos, 
1662,  fol  Two  other  editions  of  1610 
and  1669-70,  found  in  scTend  public 
libraries.  It  is  the  most  important 
work  ever  written  oi^  Aragon,  ftill  of 
erudition,  free  from  bombast,  excelling 
in  the  selection  of  the  most  trustworthy 
sources. 

9.  Argensok's  excellent  sequel  to 
Zurita's  'Anales,  Zangoia,  Lani^a,' 
1680,  foL  The  author  is  a  standard 
classical  Spanish  histwian.  The  in- 
formation is  reliable. 

8.  'HistoriadelaEoonomiaPolitica 
de  Aragon,'  by  Asso  del  Bio»  Zangoca, 
Kagallon,  1798.  Contains  curious  and 
accurate  information  respecting  the 
ancient  legislation,  wealth,  etc,  of  this 
reino. 


ARANJUEZ. 


ProT.  of  iftuirifi— PopuUtion,  6197. 
a867). 

Boutds. — From  Madrid  by  rail; 
time,  \\  hr.  by  mail  train,  and  14  hr. 
by  ordinary  train.  It  is  on  the  line 
from  Madrid  to  Alicante  and  Valencia; 
distance,  804  m. ;  fares,  1st  d.,  21  r. 
76c  ;  2d,  16r.  76c. ;  8d,  lOr.  50c  Five 
trains  a-day,  and  one  or  two  mors  during 
the  JomadA  (the  season  when  the  Court 
resides  there).  From  Toledo^  distance, 
42  ka  ;  lares»  1st  cl,  17r.  26c;  2d, 
18r.  26c  ;  8d,  7r.  75c  ;  time,  1  hr. 
16  min. ;  two  trains  a-day.  From 
Alicante  and  Valencia,  diat  407  klL, 
and  444  ka 


Hotels,  Houses. — ^At  station,  a  mid« 
dling  bufl'et;   Fonda  (HoUt^  de  lae 
auUro  Nadenee,  f ormeriy  de  Ja  Begina, 
kept   by   this  well-known,    good-hu- 
moured, and  extortionate  hostess.  The 
situation  is  not  good,  as  to  reach  the 
gardens  the  square  is  to  be  crossed, 
which  is  no  joke  when  the  thermometer 
is  80*  Fahr.    Booms  decent ;  cooking 
pretty  good  ;  private  oMneU»     HoUl 
de  loe  In/anUt,  kept  by  Snares,  a  con 
cierge  at  the  Palace  of  Arazguex,  situ 
ated  in  a  street,  but  very  dose  to  gar 
dens ;  clean   and   cool   in   summer 
fire-places  in  winter ;    a   restaurant ; 
civU  people ;  charges  moderate.  Fonda 


AKAmXJBZ. 


SI 


de  lof  MilaiUMWi  eontigooiii ;  Tiew  on 
the  gardem.  There  are  hooeee  to  let 
during  the  eeeeon. 

Hiir^i  Omrioffet. — CtUohes,  Tery 
good,  with  two  hones ;  a  stand  doee  to 
the  latter  Fonda ;  larea»  16r.  the  fint 
hr.y  14r.  the  eeoond,  and  following; 
lOr.  the  eonne,  if  within  the  Tillage  or 
from  atation,  where  there  are  omnibnaea 
ako  daring  the  aommer  onl j. 

i^M^Q^— Open  from  7  to  11.80 
A.M.,  and  from  7  to  11  p.il  Letters 
ddiTsred  at  9  A.ic  and  10  p.m.,  and  an 
extra  deliTery  daring  Qaeen*a  ataj  at 
IS  'A.1C  LeUers  leaTe  at  6  A.M.  and 
9.16  A.M.,  and  an  extra  ditto  at  8  P.M. 

Telc|(raiA  at  the  station. 

Oonoral  Daaoription.— The  illnatri^ 
ooa  and  wealthy  Order  of  Santiago  held 
•ereral  large  estates  sitoftted  on  the 
banka  of  the  Tugoa,  of  which  the  finest 
waa  an  aldea,  ciJled  Aransoel  or  Aran- 
sa^  happily  pUoed  at  the  oonflaenee 
of  the  Tigoa  and  Jarama.  Treea  were 
planted.  Tinea  and  oliTea  cnltiTated, 
and  near  the  apot  now  ooonpied  by  the 
palace^  a  Tflla,  partaking  of  both  the 
conTent  and  the  castle,  waa  erected  ih 
the  16th  oentoiy,  by  the  llaeatre  of  the 
Order,  Snares  de  Figueroa.  When  the 
liaesUansa  waa  incorporated  to  the 
crown,  it  became  the  temporary  sttmmer 
reaideneeoftheOatholiokingi.  and  the 
/ata  waa  a  Tery  fitToorite  reeort  of  Queen 
laabella  in  her  promenadea.  Charles 
y.  improTod  thepalaoe,  parchaaed  land 
and  kept  it  np  for  ahooting.  Under 
Philip  II.  aeTsral  additiona  were  made 
by  the  architeota  Toledo  and  Henera. 
The  marahea  of  Ontigola  were  con- 
Terted  into  a  lake  now  pompooaly 
called  a  mar  (a  aea)  ;  and  it  waa  a 
pleasant  and  a  regal  reaidenoe  aa  far 
back  aa  1676.  Two  consecntiTe  fires 
destroyed  the  greater  portion  of  the 
palace,  when  Philip  V.  eanaed,  in  1727, 
a  new  aet  of  boildbigs  to  be  erected  in 
fattitationof  tha  Looia  XIV.  atyle,  and 


the  older  and  remaining  portions  be> 
came  abaorbed  in  the  new  worka. 
One  Pedro  Caro  waa  the  architect  of 
thia  Spanish  Fontainebleau,  which  is 
aa  inferior  to  its  model  (thoogh  oten 
thia  one  ia  no  gem)  aa  La  Grai^a 
(excepting  the  gaidena)  ia  below  Ter^ 
aaillea.  Fernando  YI.  improTed  on  it, 
and  Charlea  IIL  added  the  two  aalient 
aislea  at  the  extremitiea  of  the  principal 
lafade. 

The  Tillage  was  built  after  an  impm^ 
Hon  d4  voifage  of  Karquia  Grimaldi,  who 
had  juat  returned  from  his  embasay  to 
the  Hague.  It  waa  a  ludicroua  idea  to 
apply  Dutch  architecture  to  a  Spaniah 
cUmate,  and  the  effect  is  curioos,  cold, 
and  uni^eaaant  The  atreeta  are  per- 
fectly straight,  Tery  wide,  and  treeleai^ 
and  formed  by  miserable  housee,  all  on 
the  aame  plan,  two  store3r^  small  win- 
dows without  shutters,  and  low  tooh. 
The  Court  reaidea  here  cTery  year  ttom 
four  to  aix  weeka,  when  it  ia  (^  Moiom 
of  Araigues,  and  ministers,  empleadoa, 
and  many  ambassadors,  come  here  and 
take  lodgings.  Several  people  haTe 
recently  built  Tillas  around  or  does  to 
the  gardens,  the  best  being  that  of 
Sefior  Salamanca,  the  Spanish  Hudson, 
who  made  the  first  railway  in  Spain  (that 
of  Araiguez).  The  Tillaa  of  Marshal 
Nenrses,  Count  of  Oftste,  Marquia  of 
Mlraflorea,  are  alao  liona  of  the  place, 
but  not  worth  the  trouble  of  aeeing. 
The  only  sights  here  are  :— 

The  Palaoo. — ^Apply  for  permit  to 
Se&or  Intendente  dd  Real  Sitio,  SeAor 
Valera,  who  liTea  in  Galle  del  Almibar ; 
but  as  there  are  fixed  days  in  the  week, 
and  alao  to  aToid  the  trouble.  Snares  dT 
Hotel  de  Isa  Infantas  will  obtain  lesTe ; 
foe  to  porter  who  ahowa  the  palace^ 
from  SOr.  to  40r.  The  principal  facade 
ia  the  best,  and  is  not  wanting  in  good 
proportiona  and  effect  The  fi^igade 
towards  the  parterre  is  something  be- 
tween a  poorhouse  in  Holland  nA  a 


22 


ARANJUBZ. 


eonyent  or  iabrik.     The  ntnatioii  is 
ohumini^  as  it  is  snrroanded  by  regal 
avenues  of  stately  elms  and  sycamoresi 
at  the  confluence  of  the  Tt^goB  and 
Jarama,  which  form  small  islands  here 
and  there,  clothed  with  treesi  a  fine  cas- 
cade bofling  down  dose  under  the  win- 
dows.   The  inUrior  is  very  indifferent^ 
and  the  fUmiture^  numberless  clocks 
and  candelabra,  belong  to  the  stiff  un- 
meaning Greco-Roman  style,  adopted 
by  Charles  IT.  and  Ferdinand  YII. 
There  are  a  few  pictures  by  Jordin,  as 
the   Spaniards  call    Lucca   Giordano^ 
alias   Lucca  Fa  Presto  ;    a  series  of 
pictures  representing  scenes  from  the 
story  of  the   Prodigal  Son,  Orpheus 
and  ApoUo,  Bathsheba  and  Judith,  by 
Gonrado  Bayeu ;   scTeral  frescoes  by 
H engs,  Amiconi,  and  other  worthies 
of  the  worst  period  of  Spanish  p^nting^ 
There  is,  nererthelesi^  a  fine  Titian  in 
the  chapel,  representing  the  Annunci- 
ation of  the  Virgin,  which  the  master 
gsTs  to  Charles  v.     TkeGhMnMetUta 
China  is  the  most  elegant  boudoir  that 
could  be  dreamed  of  in  Belgraria ;  the 
walls,  doors,  ceilings,  are  all  fitted  up 
with  Capo  di  Monte  porcelain,  in  high 
relief.     This  gem  #as  placed  here  by 
Charles  III.    The  colours,  composition, 
and  execution  are  wonderhil ;  the  artist, 
Joei  Grio  (?).     It  is  dated  1762.    There 
are  two  rooms  in  the  Alhambraio  style. 
In  the  queen's  despaeho  there  is  a  good 
Teniera^  and  her  toilet-room  has  some 
mosquettine  and  laige  mirrors. 

Casa  del  Iiabrador. — A  special  per- 
mit to  see  this  other  palace,  to  be  ob- 
tained as  before.  9^  A  tilper  key  oytoM 
all  these  gates  and  doors.  This  fkrm- 
house^  as  the  name  implies,  is  an 
affected  modesty,  for  it  is  nothing  but  a 
palace^  and,  though  small,  is  better  tar- 
nished  than  the  laiger  one ;  but,  unlike 
the  Escorial  Cell^  which  is  a  suite  of 
stately  rooms,  this  OoUag$  is  a  series  of 
boudoirs— a  Petit  Trianon,  built  by  ' 


Charles  III.,  and  worthy  of  a  Pompa-' 
dour.  The  oeilings  are  all  painted  by 
Zacarias  Velasquez  (not  tkt  great  man). 
Lopes,  an  R.  A.,  MaeUa,  eta  The 
walls  of  the  back  staircase  are  painted 
with  scenes  and  personages  of  the  time 
of  Charles  I. ;  &e  dress  of  the  period 
and  other  details  are  the  only  interesting 
feature.  On  the  top  is  figured  a  balcony, 
on  which  are  leaning  the  handsome  wife 
and  ehOdren  of  the  painter,  Zac.  Velas- 
ques.  The  bannister  on  the  front  stair- 
case contains  £3000  ralue  of  gold,  and 
the  marbles  orer  the  doors,  eto.,  are  very 
fine.  The  oeiling  of  laige  saloon  re- 
presents the  four  parts  of  tiie  worid,  by 
Maella.  There  are  some  fine  Serres 
Tases,  anda  chafr  and  table  in  malachite, 
a  present  of  Prince  Demidoffs,  Talued 
at  about  £1500.  Visit  the  gabineU  tU 
jOatima,  inlaid  with  this  metal,  iTory, 
and  ebony;  and  the  one  next  to  it, 
where  mirrors  hare  been  profusely 
pboed  where  they  are  least  required. 
There  are  beautifully-embroidered  silks 
and  damasks  on  the  walls,  representing 
Tiews  in  Italy  and  Greece,  marines,  etc. 
The  ceilings  and  doors  are  reiy  low. 

Gardens.— /)>  la  /«^~Those  so 
called  are  situated  around  the  larger 
palace.  They  were  oiiginally  laid  out 
under  Philip  II.,  and  an  idea  of  their 
style  at  that  epoch  may  be  formed  from 
the  picture  taken  of  them  by  Velasquez, 
now  in  the  Royal  Gallery  at  Madrid, 
under  Nos.  145  (representing  the  Last 
Fountain  in  the  Garden  de  la  Isla),  and 
540  (representing  the  Arenue  or  Calle 
de  la  Reina).  Much  was  modified  after- 
wards in  the  LenOtre  style  of  Versailles ; 
now  they  are  in  great  neglect  and  weedy, 
the  fountains  mostiy  dry;  and  one 
Monsieur  Lederc,  the  actual  head  gar- 
dener, does  littie  more  than  sow  rye- 
grass, and  make  narrow  walks  and 
plots.  There  are  some  msgnificent 
elms  and  planes,  of  the  spedes  Ulma 
nigra  and  Plaianut  crimUaUi  (Linn.) 


ARAMJX7BZ. 


23 


These  trees  (origiiiaUy  brought  from 
England)  were  once  ts  great  rarities 
here  as  the^>range  tree^  l^e  olire,  and 
the  palm  would  be  in  a  garden  at  Wind* 
sor  or  Kensington.  Fmi4rr$. — ^The 
Fountain  of  Herailes^  with  the  eohimns 
of  Oalpe  and  AbyU  (Gibraltar  and 
Geuta) ;  round  the  pedestal  are  sculp- 
tured the  labours  of  the  god»  and  abore 
his  statue  and  Anteus.  The  FomUaim* 
tf  Baeckuif  tU  la  Alcaehofa,  are  of  in- 
different execution.  Cloee  to  the  sus- 
pension bridge  isalarge  EngUsh-looking 
flour-mill,  the  propertj  of  Mr.  Drake 
del  Oastillo,  Marquis  of  Y^gamar.  In 
the  Oaardmu  dd  Prindpe,  where  the 
Oasa  del  Labrador  is  situated,  the  trees 
are  also  Tery  fine,  and  make  of  Aran- 
jues  a  charming  oasis  in  the  midst  of 
the  dustj  scorched-up  desert  wherein 
Madrid  is  placed,  and  to  which  the 
foreign  residentB  at  Madrid — for  the 
Spaniard  is  no  lorer  of  trees  and  ma- 
escape  at  times  to  breathe  in  summer, 
and  hear  the  chmrs  of  sweet-tongued 
ni^tingales,  a  rara  ovu  for  Madrile&os. 
There  are  some  fine  cedars  of  Lebanon 
and  colossal  elms.  Tisit  the  Islas 
Americanas,  peopled  with  sereral  in- 
teresting spedes  imported  from  America 
under  Oharles  IIL  The  usual  oookney- 
iled  MonldMos  masj^  and  fnisnt,  grot- 
toes, kiosks,  fountaina,  labyrinths^  etc, 
found  in  the  gardens  of  that  period  of 
bad  taste,  abound  also  here.  On  the 
banks  of  the  ri^er,  which  flows  some- 
what rapidly,  are  some  paddocks  of  the 
crown,  where  the  cream-coloured  Aran- 
jues  breed  are  reared,  and  also  sereral 
camels,  llamas,  etc.  According  to  the 
Journal  kept  by  Lord  Auckland,  am- 
bassador to  Charles  IIL,  there  was 
great  animation  here;  at  that  time^  the 
court  and  miniitersdined  between  twelTO 
and  two  o'clock,  and  drore  to  the  Oalle 
ds  la  Beina  at  &r%  in  landaus  drawn 
by  six  or  ten  mules,  and  four  footmen 
behind.     There  wis  much  shooting, 


hunting;  balls,  and  intrigues,  and  tn^ 
quent  ezhibitionsof  hOTsemanship  called 
par^oi,  where  the  princes  and  young 
nobleman  played  the  most  prominent 
part,  in  tiie  jHreeence  of  10,000  or 
12,000  spectators.  The  horses,  to  the 
sound  of  music,  formed  into  various 
figures  '  resembling  a  rery  oomplicated 
dance.' 

The  most  interestingdriTes are  Oamino 
de  las  Bocas  to  Lago  de  Ontigola,  eta, 
and  to  the  fiod^  or  wine-cellars, 
made  on  a  very  great  scale  by  Oharles 
IIL  in  1788  ;  they  are  curious  for  their 
size.  The  wine  made  in  the  enyirons  is 
of  inferior  quality,  which  has  not  been 
improred  by  such  good  connoisseurs  and 
landed  proprietors  as  Seftores  Marin, 
Zayas,  eta  The  cabaXUriaiu  (stables) 
are  in  the  tillage  itself;  and  deserre  a 
riiit  The  An&  sires  are  most  pure, 
and  the  crossed  breed  fine. 

There  is  a  theatre  open  during  the 
season,  which  begins  about  April  and 
ends  in  June,  whni  all  who  can  depart, 
as  then  the  heat  is  rery  great,  and  the 
ague  resulting  from  the  great  erapora- 
tion  and  stagnant  waters  to  be  dreaded, 
causing  many  deaths  amongst  the  inha- 
bitants. The  bull-ring  is  large,  and 
there  are  occasionally  veiy  good  corri- 
das. The  sporting  world  of  Madrid 
contrire  now  and  then  to  get  up  a 
steeplechase,  which  is  about  what  a 
bull-fight  would  be  in  England. 

The  court  resides  at  this  SUio  Rtal 
during  the  month  of  May  and  part  of 
Juna  There  is  then  some  animation  in 
this  otherwise  dull  and  monotonous 
place ;  but  Araigues,  eren  then,  cannot 
reoorer  its  past  splendour  and  gaieties, 
and  well  may  we  exclaim  with  Schiller, 

Di«  ■chBn—  Tag*  In  AmijiMt  ilwl  noi  na 
Bad*  !—/>««  Gm^m; 

Bookt  of  Ittfinnct,^!,  'Obras  li- 
ricas  y  Odmicas,  Dirinas  y  Humanas,' 
eta,  by  Hurtado  de  Mendosa ;  Madrid, 
2ulkiga»  about  1788.    Atsiss  and  prose 


24 


A8TUBU& 


deicriptioii  of'the  gardens  and  palaoet ; 
crnitaint,  moreoTer,  one  of  a  fiesta  in  the 
time  of  Charles  11.  of  Spain. 

2.  'Pescripdon  Hittorica  de  la  BL 
CSaia  7  Bosque  de  Araigue^'  by  Gnin- 
dos  7  Buena;  Madrid,  Impta.  Beal« 
1804. 

8.  'Desoripeion  de  los  Jardines  Fa- 
antes,  Estatnas  Palado^  OMa  del  La- 


brador/ etc,  hj  H.  Aleas;  liadrid, 
1824. 

4.  .'Gnia  Pintoresca  Descripeion,' 
etc.,  by  E.  de  £.  7  R.;  Madrid,  Biifino» 
1864.  The  mineral  springs  ( i)  and  flora 
of  the  oerros  around  Arai^jues  hare  been 
giren  by  Doctor  Qsmes  in  his  '  Ensayo 
sobre  las  Agoas  Medidnales  de  Aran- 
juex,'  1771. 


A8TURIA8. 


If  we  are  to  beliere  Sillus  Italieus  and 
others,  the  Asturians  descend  by  name 
and  race  from  Astyr,  a  follower,  or  rather 
serrant^  of  Memnon,  and  fugitive  from 
Troy.  Father  Sota,  in  his  '  Cr6nica  de 
los  Prfndpes  de  Asturias,'  too  proud  to 
admit  of  Astyr  for  his  low  origin,  con* 
Terts  him  into  Jupiter  Cretensis  and 
Mercury  Trismegistus,  eta  But  the  real 
origin  of  the  name  comes  frt>m  the  river 
Astura,  afterwards  called  Extula  and 
Stola,  and  finally  Ezk ;  and  the  Asturii 
were  then  the  different  peoples  that 
dwelt  between  the  Oantabric  Sea  and  the 
Duero,  which  latter  separated  them  ttom 
the  Vetoidi  as  the  Ezla  frt>m  the  Vacd, 
etc.  The  most  warlike  amongst  them 
were  the  Transmontane  Asturii«  who 
lived  between  the  ocean  and  the  Erba* 
sian  hills,  Which  to  this  day  are  called 
Arvas,  and  whose  limits  correspond  eic- 
actly  to  those  of  the  present  prindpal- 
ity  of  Asturias.  They  were  originally 
peopled  by  the  laguri  of  Italy  (see 
Avienus)»  and  are  mentioned  in  Himil- 
csr^s  'Journey  round  Spain. '  The  Celts 
expelled  them  and  settled  here,  and  a 
portion  of  them  became  the  Asturii; 
they  were  a  most  warlike,  independent 
race,  and  the  Romans  had  great  trouble 
to  overcome  them.  Augustus  himself 
came  in  27  B.a  with  that  object,  and 
had  to  retire^  d^ected,  out  of  humour 
and  patience,  to  Tarragona,  and,  as  is 
well  known,  the  Canti^>ric  war  lasted 
upwards  of  five  year%  at  the  end  of 


which  time  Agrippa  subdued  them.  The 
riches  of  this  country  did  not  escape  the 
shrewd  Roman,  who  knew  that  mone7 
in  the  nerve  of  war.  Lucan,  Martial, 
8.  Italieus^  mention  the  mines  that 
abounded: 

Visoeribut  laans  tdhiris  mergUnr  Imis, 
£t  rodit  inlclix  eflbso  coocoloc  aura. 

Plin7  w**  ^^^  ignorant  of  them,  and 
Florus  says : '  Circa  se  omnia  aurifera, 
miniique  et  chrysocalls  et  aliornm,  co- 
larumferaz.'  The  Roman  Treasury  was 
in  the  yearly  reodpt  of  20,000  lilnras  of 
gold  from  Asturias.  The  sure-footed, 
gentle,  and  xoktitingJajuUai,  called  by 
them  Astuteotm,  are  praised  by  S^ 
Italieus  as 

IngcBtcs  iwifffit  BMnilaa  luuid  ntocwa  d#- 

cutque: 
Corporis  exigiram ;  ted  torn  tibi  foeent  elae, 
Coodtus,  fttqnt  ibat  eampo  bdvCBatM  habcBML 

The  Romanised  Asturians,  so  to  say, 
made  great  resistance  to  the  Qoth,  and 
it  was  not  untQ  the  7th  century  that 
they  submitted.  When  the  hour  of  the 
downfidl  of  the  Oothic  monarchy  had 
sounded  for  all  Spain,  the  mountains 
between  the  Atlantic  and  the  Mediter- 
ranean became  the  refbge  of  those  who 
had  not  bent  before  de  Berber,  and 
in  a  community  of  danger,  the  descend- 
ant of  the  Roman,  the  blue-eyed  Ooth, 
and  the  tall  Iberian,  all  became  one  and 
the  same  race,  and  were  regenerated, 
and  found  unity  and  strength,  by  seek- 


A8TURIA& 


20 


ing  in  oommoii  a  ecmntiy  and  liberty. 
Pdayo^  a  Boman  hj  .nama^  bat  whose 
fiOher,  FaTi]la»  waa  a  Goth,  and  of  the 
Uood  roTal,  oame  from  Toledo,  where 
be  oommaaded  Witia'e  body-goard,  and 
rooaed  hie  oOnntrymen  to  fight  The 
lore  of  hia  eonntrj  mored  him  to  it,  aa 
wen  aa  the  ontragea  hia  aiater  had  been 
ez]^oeed  to  at  the  handa  of  Mnnnn. 
The*Berbera  aent  Al-Kaman  to  rednoe 
the  independent  tribea.  PeUyo  headed 
hia  troopa,  and  aocoeeded  in  drawing 
the  Araba  into  the  recewea  and  danger- 
ooa  gotgea  of  Ooradonga,  where  he  maa- 
aaered  them  hj  thonaanda — 187,000, 
according  to  Bishop  Sebaatian,  and 
80,000,  to  the  Tndenae.  The  Sheikh 
Pdayo  waa  now  proclaimed  king,  and 
dnring  nineteen  years  endeaToored  to 
consolidate  a  Idngdom,  which  was 
created  in  a  day  of  yictory.  To  aohiere 
hia  work  he  waa  not  a  little  aided  by  the 
dlTisiona  amid  the  Araba,  their  ddteata 
in  theeonth  oi France,  and  more  eape- 
dally  by  the  inacceadbility  of  thoae 
natml  barriera  which,  moreoTer,  led  to 
no  wealthy  dtiea.  The  monarchy  thna 
foondedt  and  formed  of  acattered  and 
different  popolatiooa  into  one  alrong 
body  Uke  the  handle  of  arrowa  of  La 
Fontaine'a  &ble,  waa  afterwarda  divided 
into  aerend  kingdoma,  and  aa  the  oon- 
qaered  groand  became  daily  more  ezten- 
aire,  waa  to  be  once  more  anited,  ander 
Ferdinand  and  laabella,  after  eight  cen- 
tariea  of  atroggle  with  that  rery  race 
whoae  first  onset  had  anited  them  also. 
Oriedo  waa  the  capital,  after  Cangaa  de 
Onia  and  PraTia  had  oeaaed  to  be  each, 
and  after  becoming  in  torn  the  Tictim 
and  head  of  ita  ndghboars,  Leon  and 
Galida,  were  abaorbed  in  the  kingdom 
of  Osatile.  When  Jaan  L  married  hia 
aon  Heniy  to  Oittherine,  daughter  oi 
the  Doke  of  Lancaster,  the  Oorisi  of 
BriTieaca  (1888)  decreed  that  the  Aata- 
riaa  would  henceforth  become  the  ap- 
panage of  the  heira'to  the  crown,  and 


they  haTe  cTer  sinoe  been  styled 
dpn  d$  Aatmritu, 

Astarias  ia  aitoated  on  a  mach  lower 
level  thin  OaatQe,  and  ia  interseoted  by 
hiUs,  which  form  rich  Swiss-like  Tales, 
where  pastors  is  abnndant  The  derra 
on  the  S.  rises  like  a  gigantic  wall,  and 
is  bat  a  prolongation  of  the  Pyrenean 
system,  and  impracticable  save  by  the 
Putrto  d€  Pajaru,  It  doees  in  a  line 
paralld  to  the  sea,  which  forms  its  na- 
tural barrier  on  the  N.  It  ooeapies  a 
sarfaoe  of  888  sqaare  leagnea,  with  a 
aomewhat  denae  population  of  684,529, 
giving  841*80  per  Spanish  mile  of  80  to 
the  degree.  The  aapeet  of  Aatariaa 
▼ariea,  bat  it  ia  in  general  woody,  with 
fhdt  treea,  planea,  ^e  cheatnat,  and  aah 
in  the  valley  r^on.  The  moantainoaa 
diatricta  aboond  in  Salvator  Boaa-like 
rocka  and  ravines,  foaming  torrents 
gashing  from  the  summits  into  yawning 
pred^ces,  virgin  forests  of  oak%  the 
Qumiu»  nUmr  (Uim.),  and  beech-trees, 
and  the  bea^  and  the  wolf  are  not  unfre- 
quently  met  with.  In  the  coast^line 
the  vegetation  changes,  and  there  are 
between  shdtering  MUs  bosomed  valea 
where  the  orange  growa. 

The  climate  ia  generally  damp  and 
cold,  on  aoooant  of  the  icy  Uaata  hom 
the  anowy  hilla,  and  the  derso  or  N. 
wind  which  blows  horn  ita  denuded 
shores.  There  is  much  fog  and  con* 
tinned  rains,  a  oonsequenoe  ni  the  high 
hills,  the  sbundanoe  of  trees,  and  water. 
These  vapours,  which  in  some  portions 
and  at  certain  periods  hang  over  the 
valleys  produce  an  absence  of  chiaro 
oscnro,  which  deprives  the  scenery, 
otherwise  grand  and  varied,  of  anima- 
tion and  rdieC 

Agriculture  is  the  prindpd  occupa- 
tion fd  the  people ;  the  ctmttmo  (rye) 
grows  wdl  on  the  dopes  of  the  moun- 
tains, corn  has  been  of  late  yeara  much 
cultivated,  eapedally  the  apedea  called 
fftniifnl  or  ttoottdA :  and  *^*^  Indies 


26 


A8TURIAS. 


ooni,  called  here  baroKa,  ia  grown.  The 
vine,  which  wm  cnltiyated  in  the  middle 
ages,  haa  been  anperaeded  hy  iht  pcma- 
fuda,  or  apple-treea»  from  which  toler- 
able cider  ia  extracted.  The  aheep  are 
also  the  object  of  much  attention,  and 
the  piaroi  of  piga  are  oelebnted.  The 
hilla  and  apora  of  the  aierraa  aboond 
with  game,  wild  boars,  and  deer,  and 
the  rirera  with  trout  and  salmon.  The 
Aynntamientoa,  or  Commona,  are  sab- 
divided  into  feligretias,  and  these  again 
into  lugaret  (from  locos).  The  houses 
in  these  country  placea  are  dean,  tidy, 
and  white-washed ;  dose  to  them  are 
the  crrioi  or  granariea  (from  the  Latin 
A<MT»iMf»),  which  are  made  of  wood,  and 
rise  upon  pillars,  so  ss  to  keep  out  rata 
and  moisture. 

The  people  are  a  hardy,  humble^ 
good-hearted  race,  celebrated  for  their 
honesty  and  industry,  and  of  patriarchal 
hsbita.  In  thia  comer  of  Spain,  where 
railways  and  the  press  hare  not  ss  yet 
penetrated,  there  are  treasures  of  norel 
scenes,  costumes,  and  customs  in  store 
for  the  artist ;  aa^  for  erample^  the  iv- 
merioi,  or  pilgrimages  to  the  prind- 
pal  shrines  of  this  piously-minded 
people.  There  is  heard  the  old  war-cry, 
^^41  and  the  dance,  worthy  of  a  bass- 
relief^  called  danxa  prima,  takea  place, 
which  consists  of  two  chdr%  one  exdu- 
sirdy  composed  ol  men,  who  move  hand 
in  hand  and  dowly  round  in  a  drde, 
keeping  time  with  the  melancholy  iv- 
moiiM  which  is  sungby  achoir  (^  women. 
This,  the  muHeira,  and  others  not  less 
poetical  and  antique  in  character  are 
danced  also  after  the  eoida,  or  fruit- 
gathering  (harrest).  On  the  long  win- 
ter nights,  when  the  snow  lies  so  thick  at 
the  door  Uiat  the  very  atars  aeem  ahlTer- 
ing  in  the  amethyst  hearen,  and  the  big 
round  moon  peepa  ghost-like  at  the  win- 
dow, the  ddera  ol  the  Tillage  or  farm 
sit  round  the  shining  Uar,  and  fH|^ten 
the  rp**^*"«  and  amuse  the  lads  with 


legends  of  a  truly  German  cast,  wherein 
are  mentioned  the  doings  of  the  xmuUf 
or  diminutive  fiiiries  that  rise  firom 
fountains  and  springs  at  night  time, 
and  dry  their  alimy  hair  in  the  moon- 
beams ;  and  the  e^  and  mischief-msk- 
ing  hwaUt,  that  appear  in  the  woods 
and  over  marshes,  messengers  of  sorrow 
and  death.  The  meetinga  in  the  open 
air,  the  oklada,  or  eating-offering  at 
funerals^  are  likewise  curious. 

The  didect  they  speak  is  very  like 
the  llomeme$  whidi  wss  so  prevdent  in 
Spain  in  the  12th  and  18th  centuries. 
It  has  great  andogy  with  the  Oalician 
and  Portuguese,  and  also  with  the 
Italian  and  Limousin.  It  is  called 
BdbU,  a  word  not  unlike  the  French 
bdlnl,  and  Dutch  babeUn,  for  which  the 
Spanish  has  no  equivdent  aave  tkarla 
and  gerigonsa.  In  this  didect  the  J 
sounds  y,  and  often  like  e^  the/is- in- 
stead of  h  aspirate  (falar  for  hdNar, 
far  for  haeer).  With  but  few  modifica- 
tions it  is  slmost  the  same  language  in 
which  Beroeo,  Segura,  and  the  Ard- 
preste'de  Hits  wrote ;  the  number  of 
angmentatlves  and  diminutives  give  to 
it  great  charm,  strength,  and  tenderness. 
There  are  no  vestiges  ^  Bable  ballade 
anterior  to  the  I7th  century,  and  those 
sung  or  found  in  Asturiaa  dating  before 
are  in  Castilian.  Of  the  latter  we  may 
be  allowed  to  give  an  example :  it  is 
the  most  popular  ballad  in  Asturiaa, 
and  in  quaintnese  and  plaintive  strain 
is  not  unlike  some  Scottish  ballads. 
It  is  sung  by  dtemate  choirs,  at  their 
dances,  and  is  a  Castilian  romance : — 

Ay  OB  faha  de  etta  vflla. 
Ay  im  fdaa  <le  etta  cua : 
Ay  A  for  aqid  venia. 
Ay  fl  por  aqid  Uegaba. 
—Ay  <Uga  lo  que  €i  qoeria 
Ay  diga  lo  qua  H  btucaba. 
—Ay  buaco  la  blaoca  oifta. 
Ay  bmoo  la  niBa  blaaca. 
La  que  el  cabello  t^ 
La  qua  el  cabello  traoaba. 


ASTUBIAS. 


27 


l^W  imw  yum  QmgmmmMf 

Qostieo*  la  vot  dttlfiria. 
^Ay  qiM  BO  la  hay  o'etta  villa. 
Ay  qoe  no  la  hay  o'etta  caaa. 
Si  DO  6fa  ma  mi  pmna. 
Si  DO  era  ooa  ai  benoHBa, 
Ay  dtl  OHtfido  pedida. 
Ay  dtl  OHtfido  Tclada, 
Ay  la  dcM  alU  SevOh^ 
Ay  k  tieM  alii  Gnuiada, 
Ay  bien  qn'ora  la  castifa» 
Ay  biea  qat  la  caatigaba. 
Ay  ooo  varillas  de  oUva, 
Ay  con  TariUas  de  raalva. 
—Ay  que  m  ainifo  la  dta. 
Ay  que  m  amigo  raguanla. 
Ay  d  qoe  le  did  la  dnia. 
Ay  el  que  le  did  la  saya, 
Al  pi^  de  ana  fueote  fria, 
Al  pid  de  oaa  ^leate  dan, 
Q*M  por  el  oro  oonta. 
Que  per  el  cro  manaba. 
Ya  tu  boen  taaof  venia, 
Ya  m  boen  aaor  llegaba, 
Pbr  doade  era  el  sol  lalia, 
Pw  doade  ora  el  sol  rayaba, 
Yodoeledeepedia, 
Y  celos  le  demaadaba. 

JDrmi  <f  (hs  JPitammirf, — The  m«n 
white  felt  caps  anliTviied  bjgrten 
trimming,'  and  theblaokTelTetmofilira 
oi  the  Qall^got  ia  seen  here  and  then. 
The  mmngaUm  wear  a  apedal  dieaai 
wide  knee-breeohea  called  aaragaeUea 
tied  on  the  knee  bj  red  cotton  garten^ 
laige  aloaohed  hats,  long  brown  doth 
gaiters  poknmat,  leather  jerUna,  jnbo- 
netas  with  a  eMumn  of  leather,  em- 
broidered and  colonred  red,  and  a  black 
long  undercoat  in  doth.  The  wealthy 
inhabitants  wear  almost  the  same  cos- 
tome,  bat  without  the  jerkin,  and  the 
doth  is  replaced  by  silL  The  women 
wear  a  pecoliar  dress,  rery  pictoresqae 
also,  and  when  married,  a  sort  of  head- 
gear called  «Ueamm*e^ 

The  dtiea  in  Astnrias  are  the  most 
backward  in  all  Spain,  and  interesting 
only  for  their  churches. 

The  country  is  Swin-like  and  jHotur- 
esiiue.  This  is  a  yiigin  land  we  recom- 
maid  to  enterprising  pedestrians  and 
hotiemen, — thoo^  they  must  be  pre- 


pared to  rough  it,  as  inns  and  post- 
houses  are  things  unknown  in  the  moun* 
tains  of  Asturias.  But  the  unbought 
hospitality  in  the  &rms  is  Teiy  great 
and  heartfdt 

The  season  for  traydling  in  Asturiaa 
is  spring;  summer,  or  not  at  all— except 
on  the  sea-coast,  where  autumn  is  not 
so  much  to  be  feared. 

Asturiss  abounds  in  yery  rich  mines ; 
but  through  ignorance,  bad  iaith,  often 
neglect,  and  want  of  ftmds,  Asturian 
minea  haye  been  neither  aought  for  nor 
woriced  as  they  deserre.  'Die  subsoil 
of  most  of  the  extent  oi  ,the  proyinoe 
consirts  of  deep  beds  oi  excellent  coal, 
inferior  to  no  other  in  the  world  saye 
that  from  Newcastle ;  the  prindpal  beds 
are  at  Langreo^  Mierea,  Santo  Firme, 
FeiTolkk,  etc.  A.  railroad  carries  the 
ore  from  the  former  to  the  quay  at 
Oyon,  where  they  are  embarked.  The 
exportation  of  the  Asturisn  ports  ex- 
ceeds 70,000,000  klL  There  is  a  rich 
copper  mine  at  Lobiana,  cobalt  at  Pe- 
fiameUera,  tin  at  Salaye,  antimony  at 
Cangas  do  Tineo,  quicksilyer  at  Fo  de 
Oabnlea,  Carabia,  eta 

To  those  coming  from  Madrid  we 
recommend :— Begin  tour  at  Leon, 
proceed  to  Oyiedo,  whence  by  Ganges 
de  Tineo,  Fonsagrada,  Logo,  riding; 
there  take  the  dii  to  CoruAa,  ride  round 
the  extreme  N.W.  point  by  Ferrol  and 
Yiyero  to  Biyadeo,  or  proceed  by  diL 
or  riding  from  CoruAa  to  Riyadeo  by 
HondoAedo,  Castropol,  Ayil^  and  Oi- 
jon  (or  back  to  Oyiedo),  Infieeto,  Oan- 
gas  de  Onii^  Coyadongo,  Abandarea 
(near  is  Peftamdera),  S.  Vicente^  San- 
tillana,  Santander.  Tourists  coming 
from  France  may  dther  take  the  inyerse 
routes  or,  if  preawd  for  time,  limit  their 
excursion  to  a  ride  through  Santillana, 
Coyadonga,  and  Oyiedo,  returning  dther 
by  one  of  tiie  steamers  that  ply  between 
G^on  and  Santander,  or  by  dil.  from 
Oyiedo  to  Leon.     The  ohuichfls  tn 


S8 


AvnjL 


tmong  the  earliest  known  in  the  Penin- 
fole,  end  of  yery  high  interest  to  the 
ecclesiologist  The  style  is  pecnliir  to 
Astoria^  end  portions  of  Gslicia  end 
Leon.  The  best  examples  are  dted  in 
onr  General  Information^  Ar^itMhim, 

The  principal  riyers  and  streams, 
abounding  with  salmon,  are :  at  Silia, 
near  Ganges  de  Onis ;  the  salmon-pools 
of  Paso  de  Moncjo,  near  Abandares; 
on  the  Dera  rirer,  the  points  called  Gar- 
reras,  Abandonee,  and  ArenaiL  There 
is  excellent  trout  in  the  Geres,  near 
Mier,  and  in  the  Yemeiiga,  between 
Gyiedo  and  Leon. 

Booh  qf  Jttfereiu$, — 1.  'Antigtte- 
dades  conoemientee  i  la  B^on  de  los 
Astnros  Transmontanos,'  (only  to  the 
10th  century),  by  Bisco,  in  the  87th 
ToLofhis*Espa&a8agrada.'  The 87th, 
88th,  and  89th  Tola,  of  *  Espa&a  Sagrada* 
contain  the  most  accurate,  critical,  and 
extensiTe  information  that  exists  upon 
Asturias. 

2.  *Uistoria  Natural  y  HWca  del 
Principado*  de  Asturias,'  by  D.  Gasal ; 
Madrid,  Martin,  1762,  4ta,  weU  spoken 
of  by  Sempere  in  his  'Snsayo  de  una 
BibL  EspiAa  de  Eecritores  del  Reinado 
de  Garlos  III.,'  toL  iL  p.  152. 


8.  'GolecciondePoesias  Asturiana% 
Gyiedo,  1880,  contains  the  best  ex- 
amples of  tiie  poets  of  the  17th  and 
18tii  centuries,  with  a  good  philological 
discourse  on  the  dialect 

4.  Far  the  natural  history  of  this 
region,  see  Bowles'  'Introducdon  i  la 
Historia  Natural,'  eta,  and  Gasal's 
'Descripcion.' 

6.  'Mines  de  Carbon  de  Piedra  de 
Asturias^'  8to.,  Madrid,  with  a  map  and 
sections,  by  Esquerra  del  Bayo^  Bausa, 
etc.;  188L 

6.  'Bese&a  ge^gnostica  del  Princi- 
pado de  Asturias,' by  O.  Schults,  in  the 
*  Anales  de  Mines,'  1888,  toL  L 

7.  *Gn  the  Coal  Dc^KMits  of  the 
Asturias,'  by  8.  Pratt,  a  paper  pub- 
lished in  the  *Atheneum,'  1845,  p. 
676. 

8.  '  Notice  sur  les  Foasiles  d^Toniens 
dee  Asturies,'  by  De  Vemeuil,  d'Ar- 
chiao,  'Bulletins  de  la  8oci4t4  G^ 
logique  de  France,'  1846,  2d  series, 
ToL  iL  p.  458. 

9.  '  Coup  d'oeil  sur  les  Minerals  de 
Per  des  Asturies,  par  Paillette  et  B4- 
xard,'  same  bulletin,  1849,  2d  series, 
ToL  tL  p.  575,  etc. 


AVILA. 


Capital  of  prorince  of  same  name— 
6606  inhab.  ;  bishopric. 

Boutee  and  OonTeyanoaa.— 1 .  From 
Madrid,  by  raU  ;  distance,  50}  mUes  ; 
time,  8}  hrs.  by  express ;  5  hrs.  Ixjrslow 
train.  Fares,  1st  cL,  50r.  25c  ;  2d, 
87r.  750.  A  buffet ;  breakfMt,  12r.  ; 
dinner,  1 4r.~pretty  good.  Trains  stop 
20  minutes.  It  is  on  the  line  from 
Bayonne  to  Madrid,  by  Buigoe  and 
Valladolid.  It  is  also  reached  tmm 
Esoorial  by  rail  direct  27)  miles ;  time 
about  1}  hours  by  express,  and  tourists 
may  thus  combine  the  houit  so  es  to 
Tisit  Afila,  avoiding,  if  possible,  to 


deep  there,  es  the  inn  is  yery  wretched. 
2.  Antiquariea  A  ouirane$  who  wish  to 
Tisit  the  antiquitiee  at  Ouisando^  on  the 
way  to  Arila,  can  hire  horses  at  Esco- 
rial  and  perform  the  following  tour : — 


ROVTB  t. 
EKorfaJ  to  San  Mardn  <k  VaJdeigledas 

Tiemblo 


Avfla 


Or,  Etcorial  to  Neves  M  MaiqMt 
Vrraci 


5* 


AVILA. 


29 


And  8,  also  from  or  to  8cgoTk»  hj 
the  Etoorial,  QoadtRunft,  8«n  Qdo- 
feooo,  18i  ki^aflt.  Yeiy  hard  riding 
oTw  nninlBfoatiiig'  country.  A  ocnno- 
whftt  r^gnkr  dfligpnee-aeifioe  hat  been 
reoently  wteWlihed  between  Ayik  and 
HaUmanoa,  about  61  milea,  to  PU- 
aeneiB»  634niilei, 

DsBOUfnoH  OF  2d  Bourn.— Yeiy 
near  San  Martin  de  Yaldeit^eaiaa  ia 
the  Bemardine  oonrent  of  that  name, 
which  waa  founded  in  the  12th  centniy 
by  Alfonao  YIL,  and  whoae  gem,  a  fine 
platereaqne  ailleria,  the  master-pieoe  of 
Tdedano^  1671,  hat  been  remored  to 
the  Unirenitj  of  Madrid. 

One  league  Ctfther  ia  the  conrent  of 
San  Geronimo  de  Goiaando,  dtuated  on 
aal<ye,  amid  lanrela  and  cypi  eaaes,  fktmi 
whidi  the  yiew  extends  orer  the  V^ga 
and  YiUa  of  San  Martin.  Ita  grottoes 
and  caret  aenred  aa  oella  to  the  Italian 
hermita  who  founded  with  aome  Spaniah 
brethren  the  Order  of  Bt  Gerome.  In 
a  Tinejard  at  the  baae  oi  tiie  hill  are 
aeattered  acnlptorea  which,  from  their 
^Mrent,  thoogh  rery  rpde,  imitatbn 
of  bolla,  haTC  been  termed  lot  toro§  d$ 
Oniaando.  They  are  considered  to  be 
Boman  work,  and  to  record  the  Tictory 
ai  Oasar  orer  the  aons  of  Pompey. 
lliey  are  often  mentioned  in  'Don 
Quixote.'  The  authenticity  of  their  in- 
aeriptioos  may  be  doubted,  acoording 
to  Siguena,  Moralea,  and  othen^  aa 
they  refer  to  the  battle  of  Munda, 
which  ia  situated  between  Gibraltar  and 
Malaga,  These  inscriptions,  almost  il- 
legiUe  to  old  Pedro  de  Medina,  eren  aa 
hi  back  aa  the  16th  century,  are  en* 
tirely  ao  now. 

Oeneral  Deaoription. — (Inn :  Para- 
dor  de  las  Diligendas.)  This  dty, 
which  still  presMTSs  much  of  the  Gothic 
sfyle  in  its  edifices,  houses,  and  aspect, 
is  one  of  the  most  backward  in  the  world. 
Ita  origin,  aa  of  all  other  cities  in  Spain, 
is  attributed  to  fabulous  heroes  and 


semi-god%'  and  it  ia  curious  to  see  how 
seriously  such  kamed  men  aa  the  Bene- 
dictine Luia  Aries  in  hia  grandesaa  da 
AriU  (*  AlcaU  de  Henires,'  foL  1607, 
the  Ma  <  Historia  de  Arila, '  escribed  to 
Biahop  PeUyo  of  Oriedo,  in  the  Biblio- 
teca  Nadoiial,  G.  118)  could  lose  their 
time  in  writing  Tolumes  to  proTs  which 
of  the  forty-three  Hercules  of  Paganism 
was  king  of  Spain,  and  manM  an 
African  princess  called  Abyla,  whose 
son  founded  Arila.  But  by  whomsocTer 
the  dty  was  founded  and  peopled, 
trustworthy  chronides  allow  ua  to  sup- 
pose that  it  waa  repeopled  by  Count 
Don  Bemond,  by  order  of  King  Alfonao 
YL,  hit  father-in-kw.  Ita  maadTS 
walls  are  stOl  extant,  and  form  a  fine 
specimen  of  the  military  arohiteoturs 
and  engineering  of  the  11th  century, 
acme  of  which  are  48  ft  high  and  14ft. 
thick.  The  gloomy  aspect  of  this  de- 
cayed dty  ia  increaaed  by  the  dark 
colour  of  the  gnmite  employed  in  the 
oonstruction.    The  only  si^t  is 

The  Oathadral,  which  partakes  of 
the  castle,  fh>m  its  mssdrenese  and 
capabilitiea  of  defence.  It  waa  buOt  in 
1107,  and  ia  of  the  Gothic  style^  hesTy, 
aombre,  and  wanting  in  proportiona. 
The  daiMd  gUm  is  rery  beautify  the 
colours  dngulariy  freah  and  Tigoitma ; 
it  datea  mostly  ai  end  ai^  16th  century. 
The  rUaJUo  ia  of  the  16th  century,  with 
pioturea  by  Juan  de  Borgo&a,  Pedro 
Bermguete,  and  Santoa  Cms.  The 
windows  in  the  CdpiUa  del  Oardmcd 
were  painted  by  Alberto  de  Holanda,  a 
Dutch  yidriero  of  the  16th  century. 
Thestallain  the  choir  are  rery  eUbo- 
ratdy  worked — a  masterpiece  of  Cor- 
nidis,  dating  1636-47.  The  other  pic- 
tures and  aculpture  are  indifferent 
Here  is  buried  one  of  the  great  scholara 
of  Spain-r-the  Bishop  of  Avila,  Alfonso 
de  Madrigal,  sumamed  £1  Tostado, 
and  alao  £1  Abulense,  died  1466.  Sta. 
Teresa  de  Jesus,  also  bom  here  (l^I^^* 


so 


AVnJL 


died  1682),  wia  a  woman  of  yery  great 
Tirtue,  ofa  powerftd  imagination^  which, 
once  kindled  hy  religion,  reached  to  a 
degree  of  exultation  reiging  on  madnen. 
She  wrote  eeyeral  works  and  letten, 
manj  of  the  latter  teeming  with  the 
moet  ferrent  piety,  tender  leelin^  and 
eloquence.  The  following  TerMS  of  hers 
will  giTe  a  just  idea  of  her  fenronr, 
mind,  and  heart : — 

'  To  Jbsus  Christ,  CRUcnma 
*  What  moves  me  to  lore  Thee,  my 
God,  is  not  that  heaven  which  Thou 
hast  promised  unto  me ;  nor  is  it  either 
that  hell,  so  full  of  awe,  that  moves  me 
not  to  offend  Thee. 

'  What  moves  me  is  Thine  own  Sel( 
O  God ;  what  moves  me  is  the  sight  of 
Thee  upon  that  cross,  nailed  and  in- 
sulted !  What  does  move  me  is  the 
sight  of  Thy  body  with  so  many  wounds ; 
what  does  move  me  are  the  pangs  of 
Thy  death. 

*Thy  love,  in  (act,  is  that  which 
moves  me  ;  and  to  so  great  a  degree 
that  I  could  love  Thee  all  the  same  if 
there  were  not  a  heaven ;  and  if  there 
were  not  a  hell  I  would  fear  Thee  no 

'Give  me  nought  in  return  for  thb 
my  love  for  Thee ;  for  were  I  not  to 
hope  what  I  am  longing  for,  then  I 
should  love  Thee  as  well  as  I  do  now.' 

The  eodesiologist  may  also  visit  th^ 
church  oi  Santo  TomoM,  situated  out- 
side the  town,  founded  1482.  Severtl  of 
the  paintings  in  the  fetablo  have  been 


•scribed  to  Fernando  Otllegoi,  tad  an 
therefore  among  the  eailiest  speeimeos 
of  Spanish  painting.  Here  also  is  a 
magnificent  sepulchre  of  white  marble 
of  Prince  Juan,  only  son  of  Ferdinand 
and  Isabella,  ob.  at  Salamanca,  1407, 
at  the  age  of  only  19.  The  tomb  and 
effigy  are  a  master-piece  of  sculpture, 
and  the  work  of  Dominicho  of  Florence, 
beginning  of  the  16th  century.  The 
stidls^  choir,  and  doisters  are  aQ  gems. 
Visit  also  the  church  of  San  Vicente, 
of  beginning  oi  14th  century,  and  the 
Byzantino-Norman  church  of  San  Pedro, 
San  Esteban,  San  Salvador,  the  houses 
of  the  Condes  de  Polentinos^  of  Golme- 
nares,  VeUrea— all  andent  and  curious 
for  their  quaint  style. 

Booh  of  JS^smiMs.— >'Tratado  de  la 
Iglesia  Abulense, '  in  14th  toL  of  Flores, 

*  Espa&a  Sagrada.' 

The  best  edition— at  least  the  most 
complete— of  Sta.  Teresa's  works   is 

*  Obras  y  Cartas  de  Sta.  Teresa  de  Jesus, ' 
etc,  Madrid,  1703,  six  Tola.  Moet  of 
the  original  MSS.  are  in  the  Esoorial 
Library.  Anew  '  Life,'  etc,  has  been 
recently  published ;  and  Se&or  Cueto, 
an  able  diplomatist  and  literate,  is  busy 
in  compiling  materials  for  another.  The 
'Oamino  de  la  Perfecdon',  sonnets  and 
letters,  are  the  host  of  her  works.  There 
is  also  a  scarce  book  on  her  life,  but 
little  known,  'Rdadon  de  la  Oanonisa- 
don,  Nadmiento,  Vida,  Muerte,  etc 
de  S.  Teresa  de  Jesu%'  etc,  in  four  ro- 
mances ;  Seville,  1622,  and  a  MS.  poem 
of  17th  century. 


BALEARIC  ISLANDS.    Sh  PALMA. 


MADKH)  *  K n.n AO to  ZARAGOZA. LKRlD.i&BMCElOBA. 


A  *  C  Rlick.  r.iii.Witrgl. 


SI 


BARCELONA. 


Capital  of  proTittoe  of  wuot  name, 
fonntfljT  <^  Citaliilka  (tee  Utter),  len- 
dence  of  Capitania-Qenenl  of  Oatalnlka ; 
bishop*!  aee^  anffngaii  of  ArchbtBhop  (^ 
TmrnganaL    Popuktioii,  188,787. 

Boatoe  and  CkmTeyanoaa.^lrt, 
ftom  Madrid,  hj  raU ;  thiia— Hadiid 
to  Zaragosa,  distano^  8134  m.  ;  farea, 
1st  cL,  150r.  250.  ;  2d  cL,  116r.  60c.  ; 
time,  10  to  10|  hia.  by  &8t  train  ;  15 
bra.  by  slow  train ;  two  trains  a-daj. 
See  for  details  of  road,  baffets,  etc. 
*  Madrid  from  Zaragoxa.*  At  Zaiagoa 
there  are  trains  in  connection  with  Bar- 
celona ;  see  as' follows  for  details,  etc 

CcmL  from  Zaragon  (line  from  Pam- 
plona), distance,  226  m.  ;  time^  12  bra. 
80  m.  ;  two  trains  a-day,  all  classes ; 
Cues,  1st  cL,  161r.  15c ;  2d  cL,  120r. 
78c  ;  8d  cL,  88r.  55c 

Bvffets^-^ltX  at  LMda,  51)  bra.  from 
Zaragoxa — good,  dear ;  2d,  at  Manresa, 
not  quite  so  good,  about  4  bra.  from 
L^rida. 

Deaoription  of  Boute.— The  country 
is  not  Tory  interesting.  The  prindpid 
features  are,  great  scarcity  of  trees,  ex- 
cept some  olires  here  and  there ;  scarcity 
of  Tillages  and  towns  on  the  way ;  plains 
Tery  extensire,  and  some  hills,  on  slopes 
of  which  Tines  are  oultiTated.  At  FtUci- 
iMMMi,  the  Gillego  is  seen  on  the  right 
At  Zuera  it  is  crossed  on  a  bridge 
TardimUa^  reached  about  two  hours 
after  leaTing  Zaragoza.  DiL  here  for 
Huesca,  94  m.,  which  by  latter  also 
runs  to  Barbas^  8  leaguea,  and  from 
which  one  may  return  to  take  up  R.  line 
from  Zaragosa  to  Baroelonaat  the  station 
of  Monson.  Huesca  is  an  interesting 
excursion  for  eoclesiologists,  as  the  ca- 
thedral is  fine  To  those  who  Tisit 
Huesca  and  Barbastro,  see  end  of  Zarar 
gooL  At  one  hour's  ride  from  the 
station  of  SariAena  is  a  fine  Carthusian 


couTent  of  good  sfyle ;  the  pictnrea 
onoe  here  haTt  been  taken  to  Huesca 
and  to  Sari&ena,  and  a  fine  Christ  to 
the  Tillsge  of  Lanija.  Not  Ui  fix>m  it 
the  country  is  much  broken  up^  as  if  by 
couTulsions,  and  here  and  there  appear 
lofty  mMwes  ni  red  earth  not  unlike 
some  mouldering  Titanic  fortrenee,  or 
ruins  of  csstles,  worthy  of  the  pencil 
fd  SalTator  Bose  Selgua. — CouTey- 
ances  to  Barbastra,  64  miles.  Memmm, 
— CouTeyanoes  to  Barbastra,  84  miles. 
The  Cinca  riTer,  which  passes  here, 
diTides  Aragon  ttom  Catalnfta.  The 
castle^  on  a  height,  is  Tery  old ;  was 
enlarged  by  Templsn  in  1148,  to  whom 
it  was  granted  hy  Count  Ramon  Ber> 
enguer.  The  ruins  on  another  height 
dose  by  are  ascribed  to  the  Romana. 

Linda  (seeTarragonafh>m  Zaragoa). 
— Cap.  of  proT.  of  LMda.  Population 
19,627.  Bufiet  The  Segre  is  crossed 
by  a  fine  bridge  Bdlpuig,  about  |  hr. 
from  L4rida.  This  was  the  9oUtr  or 
family  mansion  of  the  Anglesolas^ 
whose  castle  crowns  a  hilL  Close  to 
it  is  the  odebratod  Franciscan  couTent, 
now  deserted  and  going  to  utter  ruin. 
The  exterior  is  indifferent  It  wss 
founded  in  the  16th  century  by  Don 
Ramon  de  Cardona,  Viceroy  of  Naples. 
The  gem  of  it  are  the  doisters,  which 
are  formed  by  three  galleries  ;  the  two 
lower  ones  belong  to  the  decline  of 
Gothic,  and  the  third  is  classicaL  The 
pillars  of  the  second  gallery,  which 
presento  asomewhat  strange  appearance, 
are  not  unlike  tboee  of  the  Loi^a  of 
Valencia,  and  the  capitals  are  (nna- 
mented  with  foliage,  firult,  and  figures. 
The  spiral  staircase  leading  from  the 
cloister  to  the  church  is  of  great  merit, 
from  ito  well-combined  proportions. 

In  this  church,  ind  on  one  aide  of  the 
altar,  is  a  Tery  fine  mausoleum,  the 


82 


BARCOELONA — ROUTEa 


tomb  of  the  fonnder.  The  stylo  is 
dassie.  The  relievi  representiiig  scenes 
from  his  Life  in  Italy,  Africa,  etc  ; 
genii,  medallions,  allegorical  figures, 
and  all  other  snch  ornament  appropriate 
to  this  style  appear  well  executed.  The 
relieri  will  interest  the  artist  as  pre- 
senting a  rich  collection  of  the  militaiy 
costumes  worn  at  the  beginning  of  the 
16th  century.  The  Viigin  and  child 
aboTe  are  of  bad  effect.  The  sarco- 
phagus ii  placed  within  a  deep  recessed 
niche,  the  external  arch  of  which  is 
supported  Ixycaryatatideswith  dolorous 
countenances.  The  relicTO  on  the  back 
of  the  niche  represents  a  Virgin  and 
dead  Christ,  with  the  Hsgdalen  and 
angels.  The  tomb  is  of  most  elegant 
design.  Upon  a  broad  pedestal  are  two 
sirens  kneeling.  The  basement  is  sculp- 
tured  with  finely  modelled  horses  and 
marine  monsters.  On  the  central  front 
of  the  urn  are  sculptured  mythological 
subjects,  fine  in  composition,  well 
grouped,  and  with  morement  and  life. 
The  lying  effigy,  armed  cap-k-pie,  is 
holding  a  staff.  The  soldier's  Word,  a 
present  from  Julius  II.,  wassacril^ously 
carried  off  by  the  French.  Pouz,  Celles, 
and  other  sure  connoisseurs,  consider 
this  monument  as  a  rery  fine  specimen 
of  architectural  ornamentation.  There 
is  an  excessiTe  profusion  of  details, 
worked  out  to  a  Chinese  scrupulosity 
on  the  helmets,  escutcheons,  vases,  etc. ; 
the  figures  are  natural,  graceful,  pleas- 
ing and  well  executed.  This  magnificent 
in  memariam  on  stone  was  erected  by 
the  wife  of  Ramon  de  Cardona.  It  is 
of  Carrara  marble  ;  the  sculptor,  Juan 
Nolano. 

'  KanroM  (Buffet  Inn  :  Posada  de 
Sol),  most  picturesquely  situated  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  Canloner ;  pop.  16,264. 
One  of  the  largest  manufacturing  cities 
in  Catalulka.  Cloth,  cotton  weaving 
and  distilling  are  the  principal  finbrics. 
Thecathedral  isuninterestin^  of  Gothic 


architecture,  with  some  fine  painted 
^ass.  The  Ouevade  San  Ignaeia,  where 
'  San  Ignacio  de  Loyola,  the  founder  of 
the  Order  of  Jesuits,  wrote  his  book 
and  did  penance,  may  be  yitited.  Con- 
yejrances :  dil  to  salt  mines  of  Cardona, 
belonging  to  Duke  of  Medinaceli  ;  to 
visit  them  obtain  an  order  from  his 
steward  at  Cardona.  The  mine  is  a 
mountain  of  salt,  600  feet  high,  and  a 
league  in  circumference.  Some  of  the 
grottoes  are  most  effective.  Tarrtua, 
I>op.  8000  ;  manufactories  of  doth, 
paper,  woollens.  SaJbadeU^  pop.  14,000. 
One  of  the  wealthiest  and  most  manu- 
facturing dties  in  Catalulka.  A  good 
theatre ;  streets  lighted  with  gas.  Up- 
wards it  100  manufactories,  of  which 
80  are  woollen  and  20  cotton  spinning, 
which  employ  9000  workmen,  the  yearly 
produce  representingavalueof  £800, 000. 
The  sea  shortly  after  appears  on  the  left, 
and  Barcelona  is  reached. 

2d.  From  Bayonna:  A,  by  Imn  and 
Pamplona  (see  Madrid) ;  B,  by  the 
valley  of  Baztan,  Pamplona,  and  Zara- 
goza  {Madrid), 

8d.  From  Ferpignan  and  Gerona, 
A,  By  railway  throughout.  This 
line  is  to  be  immediatdy  completed. 
JBhie  is  the  first  station  ;  shortly  after 
the  Tech  is  crossed,  and  a  little  beyond 
Argeiis^tur-mer,  the  railvray  runs  dose 
to  the  sea-shore,  passes  at  the  foot  of 
the  eastern  spurs  of  the  Pyrenean  range, 
reaching  CoUioure  first,  and  farther  on 
Port  VendreB  (Portui  Feneris)  a  very 
secure  port,  however,  with  some  trade- 
especially  with  Algeria.  The  railvray 
advances  south,  having  the  sea  on  left, 
crosses  the  wild  valley  of  Cervera,  and 
joins  the  Spanish  railway  at  Bellinetre ; 
42  ki].,  26  from  Perpignan  (in  Spanish 
PerpiOan),  The  Spanish  line  follows 
the  sea-sh6re,  leaving  on  right  such 
unimportant  towns  ss  San  Mignd,  etc, 
then  cuts  through  that  portion  of  the 
Pyrenees  whose  extremity  forms  Cape 


BABGSLONA — ^ROUTES. 


33 


Creax,  puses  oyer  the  eztensiTe  plains 
of  El  Ampurdan,  stadded  with  TiUsges 
and  fkim-hoiiBes — and  oroaaes  'La 
Maga*  near  station  of  PtnUada,  On 
learing  FiguUroi  the  railway  oroaaes 
two  or  three  streama  and  finally  reachea 
Gerona.  B.  by  ooach  road,  distanoe, 
47  miles;  fares,  fh>m  Perpignan  to 
Gerona  hj  diL,  64r.;  Berlina,  52r.; 
interior,  83r. ;  banqnettea  and  rotonda, 
-  44r. ;  thne,  10  hoars.  The  Uobr^t 
la  eroaaed.  From  Gerona  to  Barcelona 
by  rail,  67t  milea ;  faree,  1st  cL,  44r. ; 
Sd,  85r.  20c ;  time,4  hours  ;  three  trains 
a-day.  N,  B.  — Through  tioketa  may  be 
taken,  to  aroid  trouble  and  delay  at 
Perpignan  or  at  Barcelona,  at  the  offioea 
oi  the  DiL  Company  of  SI  Oomerdo, 
BoaeDon^  which  hare  the  best  sendee, 
thon^  there  is  another  company  called 
FaTre;  three  senrices  a-day.  This 
Journey  is  easily  performed,  though 
the  changing  of  carriagea  ia  aomewhat 
annoying.  The  countiy  is  pretty ;  the 
diligenoes  good.  The  principal  citiea 
on  the  way,  Figaeraa,  OeronA. 

Perpignan.— Hotela :  du  Petit  Paria 
et  du  Nord,  de  rEurope^  aomewhat 
indifferent  CofllM-houae :  Oaf(&  Fran* 
faia.  Thia  ia  a  chef  lieu  of  the  Pyr4- 
n4ea  Orientales,  17,600  inhab.  It  is 
a  dull  and  backward  town,  with  little 
or  nothing  to  interest  the  touristy  save 
perhapa  the  Citadelle,  which  waa  ori- 
ginally begun  by  the  kinga  of  Aragon, 
and  oonaiderably  strengthened  by 
Chariea  Y.  The  rirer  Tet  croasea  the 
city ;  the  churchea  are  (^  no  import- 
ance ;  the  Exchange^  library,  Picture 
Gallery,  Maiaon  de  Ville,  eta,  with 
the  more  intereating  Botanical  Gardens, 
oonstitate  the  principal  aighta.  On 
sallying  out  of  the  city  to  the  left, 
obaerre  the  archea  of  an  aqueduct  made 
by  a  king  of  Minorca,  to  bring  the 
watsra  of  the  Tet  to  the  royal  palacci 
The  riier  Oanterane  ia  then  oroaaed ; 
fiothar  on  that  of  the  Beart^  with 


mina  of  a  caatle  on  left  Botdou, 
on  left  bank  of* the  Tech;  ndna*  of 
mediflsral  fortreaa  and  walla ;  church  of 
10th  and  11th  centuries,  the  portal  oi 
which  ia  in  white  mscrble  with  bassi- 
relieri  repreaenting  the  nativity  of 
Christy  with  curious  medieval  ooa- 
tiynea.  Ferihui$,  French  frontier,  and 
tUmane,  A  little  before  you  arrire^  on 
the  left  appeara  the  fort  of  BeU^gp^de, 
raised  by  Louis  XIY.  in  1679  ;  shortly 
after,  La  Junquera. 

One  hour  at  least  is  lost  here  in 
examining  the  luggage  as  this  is  the 
Spanish  custom-house.  Hare  your 
trunka  pUmbis^  to  avoid  their  being 
examined  again,  for  whioh  a  fixed  aum 
(a  trifle)  is  paid.  The  liuga  ia  axMaed 
at  Molina. 

Figueraa. — Hotels:  Dessaya, Fonda 
del  Oomerdo  —  7400  inhab.  A  de- 
cayed old  town,  with  no  fine  monu- 
menta  ;  the  OitadeUe  ia  the  moat 
important  one  in  OataluAa,  and  ia  con- 
aidered  by  foreign  as  well  as  Spaniah 
engineera  aa  almoat  impregnable,  if 
such  a  thing  ia  possible  in  the  daya  of 
Armatrong  and  Whitworth.  The  dty 
ia  dtuated  in  a  plain  where  the  olive 
now  growa,  but  where  formerly  rice 
waa  cultivated.  The  Gaatle  of  San 
Fernando,  crowning  the  height,  waa 
erected  by  Ferdinand  YI.  and  enlarged 
byCharlealU.  It  ia  built  in  the  n^ 
and  ita  ahape  ia  an  irregular  pentagon. 
It  waa  the  woric  of  the  military  engi- 
neer Oermi&o.  The  drcumferenoe  ia 
7880  feet  (about) ;  ita  length,  N.  to  8., 
8090 ;  breadth,  £.  to  W.,  1988.  Its 
msgaainea  and  araenala  (bomb-prooO» 
banraoka  for  80,000  men,  and  atablea 
for  600  horae,  are  all  wonderfUly  con- 
trived. The  water-datema  are  inex- 
hanatible.  The  weakeat  point  ia  the 
baation  of  San  Roque,  doae  to  tha 
prindpal  entrance,  and  the  unfiniahed 
mhalUro  of  Santa  Barbara,  which  latter 
leavea  tha  fortreaa   expoaed   to    tha 


34 


BARCELONA — ROUTEa 


heights  of  Koants  Sana,  La  Perdera, 
AvinoDety  and  Sierra  Blanoa^  It  is 
▼iaited  by  malignant  fevers  yeariy  in 
sommer  and  autnnuL  These  are  cansed 
by  stagnant  ponds  and  marshes  in  the 
plains  below,  which  might  easily  be 
remoTsd.  The  cost  of  this  fortress 
amounted  to  £286,000.  Its  situation 
renders  it  the  key  of  the  frontier.  In 
1794  it  was  cowardly  surrendered  to 
the  French  by  Andr^  Torres,  before  a 
singjle  shot  had  been  fired.  On  March 
18,  1808,  this  citadel  was  taken  by 
surprise  by  the  Fronch  under  Oeneral 
Duhesme,  who  introduced  200  soldiers 
under  a  false  pretext  It  was  recap- 
tured on  April  10,  1811,  by  Royira,  a 
doctor  in  theology,  also  bj  surprise, 
and  with  a  handfid  of  men.  In  Hay 
of  the  same  year  it  was  retaken  by  the 
French  General,  Baraguay  d'HiUiers, 
at  the  head  of  4000  men.  The  yiow 
from  the  summit  is  extendre.  For 
permit,  apply  to  Se&or  Oobemador  de 

A  curious  iffocession  takes  place  at 
Figueras  on  the  last  Monday  in  May  or 
the  first  in  June.  It  is  called  Profas6 
de  la  Tramontana,  a  name  given  to  the 
N.  wind,  which  is  to  be  compared  only 
to  the  Brighton  westerly  in  violence 
and  continuity.  This  procession,  which 
dates  1612,  is  rather  a  pilgrimage  to 
the  church  of  N.  Sta.  de  Requesens, 
which  is  in  the  mountains  close  by, 
and  lasts  three  days.  Auoom,  on  a 
hill,  and  dose  to  the  river  Fluvia. 
Here  it  was  that  on  March  21, 1814, 
King  Ferdinand  YII.  was  restored  to 
his  kingdom  after  his  captivity  at 
Yaien^Ay,  and  escorted  Uther  by 
Suchet's  army. 

GeronA. — Capital  of  the  province  of 
Oerona  and  part  of  Catalufia ;  popula- 
tion, 14,615.  The  best  inn  is  Fonda 
de  la  Estrella,  which  is  itself  an  in- 
teresting sight  (observe  the  shafted 
windows  of  end  of  12th  century). 


This  town  is  built  upon  a  hiB,  the 
slopes  of  which  extend  to  the  Y^ga, 
and  forma  barrio  called  £1  Marcadal. 
The  OAa  crosses  it,  and  the  three-arch 
bridge  over  it  is  picturesque  from  a 
distance,  as  well  ss  the  wooden  bal- 
conies looking  upon  the  river,  and  foil 
of  flower-pots.  It  is  a  very  old  and 
quaint  dty,  a  desolate,  silent  place, 
without  trade,  manufactures,  books,  or 
any  monument  worthy  of  a  lengthened 
vidt,  if  we  except  the  very  interesting 
cathedral,  one  of  the  best  examples  of 
Catalonisn  style.  It  is  said  to  have 
been  founded  by  the  Braoati  Cdts 
about  980  B.O.,  and  was  never  important 
under  dther  Qoths  or  Arabs.  The 
ddest  sons  of  the  kings  of  Aragon  were 
styled  Marquises  of  Oerona  ;  and  this 
predilection,  by  making  this  city  the 
habitual  residence  and  court  of  those 
princes,  cansed  its  depopulation  and 
ruin  by  the  many  sieges  it  had  to 
underga  In  1285  it  was  bcdeged  by 
the  king  of  France,  Philippe  le  Hardi, 
when  the  garrison,  being  starved  out, 
surrendered.  This  fact  is  recorded  in 
Catalan  over  the  gate  to  the  S.  of  the 
dty,  called  Pnerta  de  la  CarceL  The 
inscription  states  that  the  French  took 
it  not  *  per  foisa,  mes  per  fam.' 

Cathsdral  of  Omrma, — The  ascent 
to  this  building  is  by  a  wide  flight  of 
steps,  forming  an  impodng  approach, 
worthy  of  a  larger  and  handsomer 
church.  The  fa^e  is  a  plain  wall, 
with  a  front  composed  of  three  stages 
that  belong  to  the  pseudo-olasdc  style  ; 
the  whole  most  indifferent  In  the 
centre  of  the  fa9ade  is  a  drcnlar  rose- 
window,  with  statues  of  Hope,  Fdth, 
and  Charity.  This  work,  with  its 
niches,  statuettes,  and  other  details, 
dates  173S.  Only  one  of  the  two  in- 
tended towers  exists  and  ii  heavy  and 
incongruous.  The  primitive  cathedral 
was  very  andent,  and  the  Moors  con- 
verted it  into  a  mosque.   When  Lndovic 


BABOKLONA — ROUTE&. 


35 


Pitui  ncaptorad  the  city  it  mm  restofed 
to  its  of^;iiiAl  nfe.  It  was  so  ruinoiis 
in  the  11th  oentoiy  that  Bishop  Pedro 
B<^ger  and  his  sister,  the  Countess 
Ermesinds,  undertook  to  reboild  it  'at 
their  expense,  and  in  1038  the  new 
choreh  was  consecrated.  This  second 
one  was  palled  down  also,  and  lefl  no 
Testiges  behind  sare  tho  doisten  and 
the  belfry  ;  the  chapter  resolved  to  re- 
boild it  at  their  own  expense.  The 
extreinity  of  the  edifice  was  begnn  in 
1316 ;  the  architect  is  supposed  to  hsTt 
been  Enrique  of  Narbonne,  whose  name 
la  found  as  maestro  de  obras  in  the 
'Liber  Notulorum'  (archires  of  the 
cathedral  oi  Qeroo*)  as  hi  back  ss 
1320.  His  successor  was  Jaime  de 
Farariis^  also  from  Narbonne.  Ho  was 
succeeded  by  Argenter,  who,  it  is  be- 
liered,  completed  this  portion  of  the 
church  in  1346.  At  this  time  the 
original  plan  oi  prolonging  the  three 
nares  was  abandoned.  Sereral  of  the 
most  celebrated  maestros  mayoies  of 
Spain  were  called  to  a  Jtanta,  and  their 
opinion  asked  ss  to  the  expediency  of 
continuing  the  work  with  one  or  more 
nares ;  the  plan  of  one  single  nare  pro- 
posed hy  Ouillelmo  Boffis  was  adopted, 
and  the  work  completed  between  1417 
and  1579. 

The  style  is  Gothic ;  the  nave  is  73 
ft.  wide ;  the  arches  are  (^  an  elegant 
Cgival*  with  a  roee-window  of  sti^ied 
glass  over  each,  which  is  norel  and  of 
pleasing  effect  The  lateral  nares  meet 
and  blend  into  one  behind  the  presby- 
teiy,  which  is  surrounded  by  pillars  in 
sh^  oi  a  semicircle,  and  support  the 
cupola.  The  arches  are  pointed ;  the 
cAoir  la  indifferent ;  the  high  aitar  be- 
longed to  the  former  church,  dates  11th 
century,  and  is  original  as  to  form. 
The  frontal  is  alabaster,  but  cannot  be 
seen,  ss  it  is  all  over  concealed  under  a 
tUrer  chapa,  except  in  the  front,  which 
is  corered  with  gold.    In  the  centre  are 


some  figureaof  saints,  and  in  a  niche  a 
Yiigiaand  Child.  All  of  it  is  dotted 
with  stonea  that  shine  like  precious 
stones.  There  are,  besides^  seveiml  other 
figures  of  prophet  apoeUes.  etc  The 
retadlo  Is  a  mass  of  silirei  gilt,  and 
fi>rms  three  stages  divided  into  com- 
partments, with  figures  and  a  reUero 
rq»resentaiion ;  the  lower  stsge  has 
saints  and  two  bishops  at  the  sides ; 
the  second,  scenes  from  the  life  of 
Christ ;  the  thkd,  scenes  from  life  of 
the  Yiigin.  The  whole  is  crowned 
with  statues,  sUver  gilt,  of  the  Virgin, 
St  Narcissus,  and  St  Felise.  Over 
this  retablo  Is  a  baldachin  or  dais  of 
sUrer,  which  rests  upon  four  very  thin 
pillars  ooTered  with  silver  also.  Thisfine 
retablo  is  by  Pedro  Benes ;  the  balda- 
chin Is  of  the  14th  century.  On  the  left 
of  the  M,  Chapel,  or  apse,  is  a  marble 
tomb  of  Bishop  Berenguer,  obi  1408. 
It  Is  Gothic,  and  has  findy-exeouted 
niches  and  figures.  Between  the  chapeb 
(^  Corpus  Christi  and  San  Juan  Is  a  fine 
Gothic  tomb^  of  the  14th  centuiy,  of 
the  great  benefiictress  of  the  cathedral. 
Countess  Ermesinda,  who  was  married 
090  to  Count  Ramon  Borrell  IIL,  and 
was  celebrated  for  her  virtue,  great 
beauty,  and  wisdom  in  poUtieal  afCiiirs ; 
oK  1057.  In  tho  chapel  of  San  Pablo, 
which  is  the  first  to  the  left  on  entering 
by  the  principal  door,  is  another  fine 
sepulchre  of  Bidiop  Bemado  de  Pan, 
obi  1547.  There  is  a  great  profusion 
of  details,  rendered  most  minutely, 
and  divided  into  horisontal  compart- 
ments, filled  with  numberless  figures ; 
dates  15th  century.  Over  the  door  of 
the  sacristy  Is  the  tomb  of  Count 
Ramon  Berenguer  IL,  oap  de  eaiopa^ 
with  his  effigy  upon  it  U  is  of  the 
end  of  the  14th  century.  The  doitUn 
are  anterior  to  the  church,  and  Byxan- 
tine ;  they  are  laige  with  a  heavy  low 
root  The  capitals  of  the.  pillars  bear 
sculptured  subjects  from  the  Book  ol 


36 


BARCELONA— ROUTSa 


Genadi^  rtry  rudely  ezocuted.  The 
pfttio  ia  indifferent  and  weedy ;  the  S. 
door,  oalled  de  loe  Apoftolee,  hat 
ale&der  piUara  riohlj  acolptnred,  and 
d  the  coarN  execution  characteriatic 
of  the  Byiantine^  althoo^^  here  and 
then  the  Gothic  may  be  aeeii  already 
dawning;  the  ardhea  hare  the  best 
•peoimen  of  acnlptnre  in  the  cathedral ; 
the  atatoes  oi  the  Apoatlea  are  inferior 
to  the  leaf  ornamentation—date  1468. 
The  ca^edral  waa  finished  by  one  Pedro 
Cott%  an  B.A.  of  a  Fernando,  obi 
1761,  who  alao  made  the  Gr»oo*Roman 
front  of  the  edifice^  and  ought  to  hare 
confined  his  time  and  talenta  to  the 
completion  of  another  work,  of  which 
he  wrote  three  enormous  Tolumea,  on 
genealogy. 

Tht  CfoU^iata  d§  Sam  nUe$,  iMi  iti 
belfry  towers  rising  abore  the  houaea, 
ia  seem  fit>m  ereiy  direction.  It  is 
elegant  a|id  lofty,  and  dirided  into 
three  stages;  the  best  is  the  third, 
which  datea  16th  century ;  the  second 
is  of  the  14th  century,  aa  it  was  raised 
graduaUy.  In  1681  it  was  struck  by 
lightning  and  seriously  damaged,  but 
has  been  since  repaired ;  the  £i^e  of 
the  church  is  of  the  18th  century.  The 
general  and  original  deaign  of  the 
church  ia  Bysantine ;  one  nare,  rather 
high  for  the  two  low  galleriea  or  cor- 
ridors  on  the  sidea,  scarcely  deserres 
the  name  of  nave ;  the  pillara  are  heaTy 
and  almost  shapeless.  The  prindpd 
object  of  interest  is  the  sepulchre  of  San 
Felice  (or  St  Feliz.)  It  is  of  the  ISth 
century.  The  relieri  on  it,  with  per- 
aonagea  in  the  Roman  dres%  represent 
scenes  from  the  saint* a  Ufa.  There  are 
two  basst-relievi,  said  to  be  Roman 
work ;  one  representa  a  lion-hunt,  and 
the  other  *  Night,'  with  the  choir  of 
Hours,  and  the  Graces^  etc,  well  pre- 
aenred,  but  of  little  merit 

The  principal  siege  Gerona  has  erer 
sustained  took  place  in  May  1800,  when 


the  F^oh,  86,000  in  number,  undei 
Verier,  GouTion  St  Cyr,  and  Augereau, 
fairly  starred  the  heroic  inhabitanta, 
who  defended  themaelyea  with  the  de- 
spair  that  hatred  to  the  foreigner, 
^te,  Tengeanoe^  and  priesthood  can 
cause :  the  siege  lasted  7  months  and 
6  days.  The  French  lost  16,000  men, 
and  the  Spaniards  0000 ;  and  against 
the  40  French  batteriea  the  Gerundeaea 
had  but  rtry  scanty  ammunition,  and 
their  guna,  mostly  out  of  order,  were 
serred  and  loaded  by  the  women. 

From  Gerona,  tlierail¥ray  to  Barcelona 
branchea  between  Sila  and  HartorelL 
▲.  One  line  goea  to  Barcelona  by  the 
sea-coast,  crondng  Arenys  and  Matard, 
and  is  caJled  Linea  de  MatanS  and  del 
literal ;  distance,  66  m. ;  time  about  8 
hrs.  to  84  hra. ;  three  trains  a-day ;  fares, 
l8tcL,40r.;  2dc].,82r.;  8dcL,22r.  It 
is  the  pleaaanter  of  the  two^  aa  it  fol- 
lows the  charming  Mediterranean  coast; 
the  cod  sea-breese  tempering  the  heal 
in  summer,  and  the  many  wMte  lateen 
saila  and  steamera  gladdening  the  eye. 

^renyt  d§  Mar,  pronounced  Arem  in 
Catalan  (ia.  sea-aand),  ia  a  amall  and 
pretty  town  of  aome  6000  inhaK, 
aituated  on  the  Mediterranean,  at  the 
foot  of  aome  hilla  clothed  with  treea, 
and  atudded  with  gardens^  orange- 
groTca,  and  gay-looking  torrea ;  abore 
rises  ^rmyt  ds  MunL  Here  are  aereral 
Unen,  lace,  and  blonde  manutiactories ; 
brandiea  and  aoap^  'ce  luxe  de  la  par- 
f^unerie  modeme,*  are  considerably 
exported.  Beaide%  there  are  three 
fine  dockyarda,  and  Charlea  III.  esta- 
bliahed  here  a  good  nautical  or  nayal 
achool,  now  kept  up  by  the  Chamber 
of  Commerce  of  Barcelona.  There  is 
good  bathing  in  the  summer ;  the  en- 
virons are  pleaaant,  and  excursions  may 
be  made  to  the  hermitagea  del  Cal- 
▼ario  and  el  Reroedio.  A  tunnel  aome 
600  ft    long   is  crossed   on   learing 


BARCELONA — ^ROUTES. 


37 


AreiiTi.  On  the  right  we  tee  the  laige 
uid  new  mineral  establecimiento,  called 
'  BaAoe  de  Uto,'  excellent  in  diseases 
of  the  skin  and  rheumatism.  The 
small  rirer  of  Oaldetas  is  trsTersed. 
To  right,  on  a  height,  stands  the  pic- 
turesque Torre  de  los  Encantados,  con- 
sisting oiaomt  ill-kept-up  fortifications. 
CakUtoi,  631  inhab.,  is  a  pretty,  dean, 
indifferent  hamlet,  with  some  good 
thermal  springs ;  close  to  it,  on  a  he^ht, 
stands  the  mined  castle  of  Rocab^ti, 
the  name  of  which  is  associated  with 
sereral  romanesque  legends  of  border 
life  and  piratical  inroads  of  Algerines, 
etc  The  Lleraneras  is  crossed ;  on  a 
height  rises  the  ancient  castle  of  Nofre 
Arnau,  now  in  ruins. 

Matard,  pop.  16,600.  Inns :.  Meson 
de  la  Fnerte,  Parador  Nuero.  The 
name  is  derired  from  San  Miguel  de 
Mata;  the  armorial  bearings  being  or 
4  bars  gules,  a  hand  holding  a  sprig 
(MaU),  with  the  word  Rd.  This  rery 
thriring;  busy,  manufacturing  town  is 
divided  into  two  portions ;  tiie  older, 
Ia  Ciudad  Ti^a,  occupies  a  hiU,  and 
preserves  its  ancient  character,  in  its 
gates,  sombre  narrow  streets,  etc  ;  the 
modon  part  extends  down  to  the  sea, 
on  the  slopes  of  that  same  hiU,  the 
streets  being  wide,  the  houses  lofty, 
dean,  and  many  elegantly  furnished, 
well  built,  and  painted  outside  and  in 
with  daul^  but  effectiTe  frescoes.  Visit 
the  parish  church  for  its  silleiia,  and  the 
six  fine  pictures  by  Yiladomat  (chapd 
de  los  Dolores),  rispresenting  Passion  of 
Christ  '  Jesus  bearing  the  Cross,*  has 
been  compared  by  connoisseurs  to 
MuriUo's  best  style  There  are  some 
others  by  Montafia.  There  is  a  pretty 
theatre,  an  admirably  well-oiganiMd 
'Col^gio  de  Oatalufia,'  a  large  and 
regular  Plaza  de  la  Constitndon,  etc 
ThB  town  was  crueUy  sacked  in  1808 
by  the  Franco-Italian  divisioii  under 
Lecdii,  and  it  was  saved  from  being  set 


on  fire  lyy  the  intercession  of  Don  Fdix 
Quarro,  who  entreated  the  general  to 
spare  Uie  town.  Had  he  lived  in  the 
18th  or  14th  century  he  would  have 
been  canonised  by  the  militant  Church, 
just  ss  his  city  was  by  the  tritm^ithant 
French  army ;  as  it  was,  the  merciful 
conquerors  managed  to  carry  away  some 
.780,000rs.  as  a  souvenir.  On  leaving 
the  dty,  the  traveller  sees  on  a  hill  to 
the  right  the  ruins  of  the  Moorish  tower 
Boiriach,  at  the  foot  of  which  is  the 
mineral  spring  of  Argentona.^  The 
waters  are  carbonated,  and  most  effica- 
cious in  the  treatment  of  nervous  com- 
plaints. (Conveyance  by  tartanas,  in 
I  hr.,  from  station  of  Matar6  during  the 
temporada.)  All  the  dirtrict  between 
this  and  V ilassr  produces  beautiful  roses 
and  strawberries,  etc,  which  are  sent 
to  Barodona. 

On  leaving  the  station  of  Yilassr,  and 
not  far  from  several  Moorish  atalayas  or 
watch-towers  on  same  hills,  observe 
the  castle  of  Yilasar,  one  of  the  best 
preserved  examples  of  medinval  palatial 
fortresses  in  OitaluAa.  The  railway 
continues  to  follow  the  seaboard,  stud- 
ded with  small,  pretty,  And  thriving 
hamlets.  On  leaving  Masnou,  the 
Aleya  is  crossed,  and  a  tunnd  entered, 
some  420  ft.  long.  At  Mongat,  observe 
on  the  hill  the  castle  of  that  name, 
which  is  cdebrated  for  the  heorio  re- 
sistanoe  oi  its  few  inhabitants  in  1808 
against  the  whole  of  Leochi's  divirion, 
numbering  eight  guns  of  heavy  calibre. 
The.  dege  lasted  four  days-4t  fell  at 
last,  and  all  its  brave  inmates  were  cut 
down  one  after  the  other. 

One  hour  off  stand  the  ruins  of  the 
Oartqja  of  Montalegre,  amid  wild 
soeneiy.  The  legend  of  its  foundation 
runs  Uius: — Two  schod-fellows,  who 
had  completed  their  studies  at  Barce- 
lona, were  coming  home,  when  they 
chanced  to  halt  in  the  pleasant  valley 
of  Montalegrs.     'This  is  fine  womuj. 


38 


BAROELONA— ROUTSa 


and  worthy  of  a  eon?eiit '  '  The  aitoa- 
tion  ia  fine  indeed.'  '  Well,'  qnoth  the 
former,  'if  I  erer  become  a  Pope,  I 
ahall  boild  one  here.'  '  In  that  caae,' 
answered  the  other,  '  I  mnat  become  a 
monk,  and  lire  in  it'  Tears  and  years 
had  elapsed,  when  Fray  Jnan  de  Kea 
was  sent  to  Home  by  command  of  his 
superior,  who  had  r^oeired  an  order 
from  the  Pope  to  that  effect  The 
good  monk,  in  the  act  of  kissing  the 
Pontiff's  foot,  raised  his  head,  and  lo, 
the  Pope,  Nioolas  Y. ,  was  no  other  than 
his  old  school-fellow  of  Barcelona. 
Keed  we  add  that  the  conrent  was 
bnilt,  and  the  ftmds  generoosly  giren 
by  the  Santo  Padre  f  Alfonso  Y.  and 
his  queen  embellished  and  aggrandised 
it,  uid  the  three  cloisters,  paintings, 
library,  and  plate  subsisted,  and  were 
celebrated  unUl  1835,  when  it  was  mostly 
destroyed  during  the  ciril  war.  The 
only  remains  are  a  Ci^e,  ruins  of 
cloisters,  and  some  cells.  All  now  is  a 
scene  of  desolation  and  ruin, 

Thencred  tapers^  lights  are  foo«, 
Grey  mou  hadi  dad  the  altai^etooe, 
The  holy  image  b  of'erthrown, 

The  bell  haa  ceaaed  to  toll 

The  loof-ribbed  aisles  are  burnt  and  shnink. 
The  holy  shrines  to  min  sunk. 
Departed  is  the  pious  monk, 

God's  Mrtft^f  on  his  aouL 

Atfirif'iM. 

Badalona-^op.  10,486 — the  Betnlo 
of  the  Bomans,  on  the  Nesos,  amid  a 
fertile  plain,  gardens  and  orange-groves. 
As  we  approach  the  capital  the  railway 
passes  dose  under  the  citadel ;  to  the 
left  is  Baroeloneta  and  the  bull-ring, 
and  we  stop  at  the  E.  side  of  Barcelona. 

B.  The  second  line  passes  Hostahrich 
and  Qranollers,  and  is  called  linea  del 
Interior  and  of  GranoUers.  Distanceb614 
m. ;  time  same  as  by  former ;  turn,  1st 
cL,  40r. ;  SdcL,  82r. ;  8dcL,  22r.  JTbs- 
talnek,  on  the  Tordera,  a  strongly 
fortified  place,  Tery  picturesque. 

QnuioU«ri.^ProTince  of  Barcelona, 


capital  of  the  Yall^  population  4500. 
A  rather  interesting  church  is  here  of 
12th  century,  but  with  portions  prob- 
ably of  14th  and  even  15th  century,  a 
nave  of  five  bays ;  an  apse  of  seven  sides, 
with  a  tower  at  the  north-west  angle. 
Observe  staircase,  and  especially  the 
iron  hand-railing,  leading  to  the  groined 
galleiy  (late  15th  century)  in  west  bay, 
a  charming  newel  staircase  in  the  angle 
of  the  tower,  a  remarkable  late  wooden 
pulpit  with  rich  woodwork,  a  fine  pic- 
ture representing  the  martyrdom  of  St 
Bartholomew.  Conveyances  to  Yich 
and  Oaldas  de  Montbuy— a  busy  manu- 
facturing town,  with  regular,  clean 
streets,  and  a  much-frequented  cattle- 
fair  every  Thursday.  In  the  environs, 
several  excursions.  Ruins  of  the  castle  of 
La  Boca ;  the  Bomanesque  Church  of 
San  Felice  de  Canovellas  (dist  1  m.); 
the  snowy  hills  of  Montseny,  and  the 
picturesque  ruins  of  the  Simtuario  de 
San  Miguel  del  Fay,  to  reach  which 
some  wild  country  has  to  be  crossed. 

From  MaT9tUUa  by  A.  Lopes  com- 
pany's steamers. — ^Yeiy  good  and  fest, 
service  good.  Leave  Tuesdays  at  11 
morning,  and  arrive  Wednesdays  in 
about  20  to 28 hrs.  Fares,  1st d.,  55fr. ; 
2d  d.,  d7fr. ;  8d  cL,  20fr.  First  and 
second  class  passengers  are  entitled 
to  100  kilog.  luggage  f^;  children 
under  8  years  gratis  ;  fh>m  8  to  7  years 
old  pay  half-fare.  MeaU  extra.  Table 
d'hote  breakfast  and  dinner  at  tariff 
prices.  Private  cabins  if  desired. 
Offices  at  Marseilles^  Messrs.  Emmanud 
Olivieri,  and  general  offices,  Place 
Royale.  At  Barcelona,  D.  Ripoll  y 
Cia.,  PUsa  de  las  OUas. 

Fiom  Vfdmeia, — ^A.  By  sea.  Steam- 
ers of  Bofill,  Martorell,  k  Co.  Leave 
Yalenda  on  10th  and  !^th  of  each 
month  at  5  p.m.,  and  arrive  at  Bar- 
cdona  on  the  11th  and  26th  at  1  ▲.!€., 
10  hrs.,  more  generally  19  hrs.  Special 
steamer,  *  El  Catalan,'  leaves  Yalenda 


BAROBLONA — ^ROUTES. 


39 


every  Fridij  direct  to  Bereelona,  in 
20  hn. ;  fiues,  ISO  end  80n.  K  Bj 
railwaj.  TalenciA  to  Ttmgoiia  IS 
boon,  incladiiig  8)  bj  diL ;  Tarragona 
to  Bmelooa,  8  hn.  by  rail ;  total  16 
hn.     See  FaUneia, 

From  Liverpool,  Boail,  Martorell,  k 
Co,  twice  a-month.  From  Cfadis,  Ma- 
lagot  AlicomUj  steamen  of  Lopez  k  Ga 
Leave,  let,  16th;  Sd,  17th;  4th,  10th. 

From  Balearie  Idanda :  from  Palma, 
On  Toeedaya  at  4  p.m.  a  new  steamer, 
'llallorca';  on  Saturdays  at  S  p.m. 
'St  iCenorca,'  toaches  on  its  way  at 
Alcodia.  Offices  at  Barcelona,  Calle 
TsabellLNaO.  Fares,  60, 40,  and  SOrs. 
distance  180  miles,  14  to  16  hrs.  From 
Hahoo,  steamer  'Menorca,'  on  Sundars 
at  8  A.M.,  toQohing  at  Alendia ;  frmn 
Torien^  touching  at  Siljei,  FiUami^m, 
Tarragona{ia  5  to6  hrs.,  twice  a-week), 
and  Ampoda,  twice  a-month,  no  fixed 
day ;  offices  Calle  de  Ases  No.  1. 
There  are  also  direct  steamen  from 
Hambiirg,Soathampton,etc  ,and  others, 
stopping  at  intermediate  ports,  which 
have  noregnlar  days,  and  are  advertiaed 
in  the  local  papers.  N^, — If  attention 
be  attached  to  personal  comfort,  go  to 
the  port  and  visit  the  steamer  before 
yon  leave,  ss  most  steamers,  save  those 
we  have  named,  beingconstmeted  nther 
for  merchandise  than  passengers,  afford 
often  bntscantyand  bad  accommodation. 


Frvm  the  Fmck  Pyrtnttt^  mt^tking  mttd 
ridimf—A.  Tonlouae  or  Ax  to  Barcelooa  by 
PoyoenU  and  Valley  of  Andorre.  Tooloase  to 
Ax.  The  ndlway  b  opeo  between  TouIoum 
and  Foix ;  trains  mn  in  3  bra.  is  min.  Fares, 
tst  cL,  gfr.  30c  :  ad  cL,  Ut.  95c  ;  3d  cL,  sfr. 
toe.  There  are  3  dally  dU.  between  Foix  and 
Ax  doring  the  season,  and  one  (T)  daily  all  the 


Disim$te*s. 

Kn. 

Miles. 

Toulouse  to  Foix 

8s 

5« 

Tarasoon  .... 

t6 

10 

Ussat        .... 

3 

s 

LesCabaanet  . 

7 

4 

Ajc 

t6 

10 

««4       Tf 


At  Usmi,  Hdtel  Cassagne.  Tnm  Les 
Cahannes,  the  Ptc  St  Barth^ltey  or  Pic  d« 
Tabe,  7707  ft,  whidi  presents  an  adndrabb 
panorama,  may  be  conveniently  ascended;  6 
hrs.  to  ascend,  and  4  hrs.  to  return.  Ruins  of 
the  castle  of  Lordart,  also  worth  a  visit  Ax^ 
a  small  thermal  establishment,  S399  ft  above 
the  sea.  Hotel :  Sacre ;  room  and  board,  Cfr. 
per  diem.  It  is  otoe  of  the  most  remarkable 
thermal  sites  in  the  French  Pyrenees.  The 
scenery  is  extremely  beantifuL  The  hottest 
spring  is  t68'4*  Fahr.  Now  proceed  to  valley 
of  Andorre  by  the  Port  de  Salden,  t6  houraf 
journey.  Better  to  make  two  days,  and  sleep 
at  CaniQo,  9  bra.  30  mm.  Carriage  road  as  far 
as  Merens,  8  luL  5  m. :  thence  mountain  path 
practicable  for  horses.  The  road  ascends  the 
r%ht  bank  of  the  Ari^,  crosses  the  stream  by 
a  stone  bridge,  and  x  hr.  30  mm.  a/ker  again 
creasing,  b  Mtttmt^  which  has  700  fahab., 
and  b  3560  ft  in  height  by  a  rough  ascent ;  a 
hrs.  more  to  Hospitabt,  the  bst  French  village. 
About  5  min.  bring  you  to  the  bridge  of  Cerda 
and  douane  station.  Here  branch  two  roads ; 
that  to  the  left  crossing  t)^  Ari^ge,  lends  by 
Puycerda.  Continue  to  ascend  to  the  right; 
s|  bra.  to  Rochers  d'Avignoles  or  PourtaHles, 
where  the  Ari^ge  takes  its  rise.  Here  two 
gorges  open ;  that  to  the  lefk  leads,  by  a  longer 
though  somewhat  easier  roed.  into  the  valley 
of  Andorre,  over  the  Port  de  FramigueL  Take 
to  the  right ;  cross  a  plateau,  fellow  the  stream 
of  the  Valira,  and  descend  into  the  upper  valley 
of  Andorre.  The  narrow  gorge  to  the  left  with 
forests,  b  the  Spanish  issue  of  Port  FramigueL 
Before  you  rises  the  snowy  Mount  Rialp ;  the 
Port  of  Salden  b  8sos  ft ;  si  hours'  descent  to 
the  wretched  hamlet  of  Saklen.  FoUow  the 
course  of  the  stream,  and  reach  Canilio  to 
sleep;  600  inhab. :  belongs  to  Andorre ;  lodg- 
ings.  Next  naoming  cross,  on  leaving,  the 
stream  of  the  Valira,  pan  bjr  Chapel  of  Miri> 
chel,  a  shrine  high  in  repute  ;  pan  also  villages 
of  En  Camp,  picturesquely  placed,  and  Laa 
F.srakias,  a  thermal  establishment  7  hrs. 
after  leaving  CanOlo,  Andorre  b  reached, 
which  b  the  capital  of  the  republic  Thb 
worthy  pendant  of  the  republic  of  San  Marino, 
which  Napoleon  b  said  to  have  spared  because 
it  was  'une  curiositf  politique,*  extends  to 
ss  Bi*  to  W.,  and  so  m.  N.  to  &  ;  popubtion 
about  6000,  and  the  army  b  of  600  men:  drums, 
lUgs,  uniforsss,  etc,  we  should  say  arms, 
almost,  are  not  required.  The  republic  was 
first  enfranchised  by  Chariemagne,  and  a 
charter  granted  by  Loub  le  DAonnaire.  It 
pays  a  yeariy  trilnite  of  96olr.  to  France,  and 
as  auich  to  the  Piinoe  Bishop  of  UrgeL    There 

to  unak  ot    Hm  people  are  qubt,  and  oocu* 


40 


BARCELONA — ^ROUTES. 


pied  ia  pMtonI  or  agricultural  pnmiits.  The 
capital,  Andorra,  haa  8so  inhab.  From  Andorra 
toUrgel  a  mule-path  along  the  Valira,  in  6  hn. 
Urgel  to  Puycerdi  along  the  river  Segre,  »5 
OL  in  6  hrt.,  whence  to  Barcelona. 

B.  AxUBarcehtutfyPuyctrcUL—'DlM^aact 
»3|  m. ;  time  lo  hra.  mule-track.  As  &r  aa 
HoapitaJet,  lee  above.  Croaa  the  stream  by 
Pont  de  Cerda,  and  take  to  left,  aacending  to 
Col  de  Piqmorin  by  a  sigag  road.  After  hav- 
ing croaaed  (45  min.)  between  a  peak  on  left 
and  flat-topped  summit  on  right,  traverse  a 
plfttfffw^  and  IS  min.  after  readi  the  C#/, 
height,  6093  ft.,  between  Pic  de  Fronftide, 
8380  ft.  to  the  &,  and  the  Pic  Sabarthe, 
836s  ft.  lo  the  N.,  forming  the  Umiu  of  the 
departmentaof  Ari^ge  and  the  Vytiatm  Orien- 
tales,  dose  by  is  the  douane  station.  De- 
scend into  the  ralley  of  the  S^gre,  as  m.  after  ia 
readied  village  of  Port^  and  ruined  castle  of 
Caidogne  on  opposite  side  of  the  gorge  of 
Fondvive,  at  the  head  of  which  are,  moiwtatn 
of  Lanoux,  9374  ft. »  and  of  Pedroux,  931X  ft 
Follow  down  the  stream,  30  ndn.  after  reach 
Pocti  on  left  bank  of  Stfgre,  49S0  ft.  Here 
the  gorge  beoomea  very  wild,  a  chaoa  c^huge 
rodcs  showing  conspicuoua  tracea  of  gbider 
action.  Farther  down  are  the  Tours  de  Carol, 
erected  In  commemoration  of  a  victory  here 
gmned  by  Charlemagne  over  the  Ifoora.  Cross 
the  canal»  leave  on  left  the  route  to  Bourg 
Madame,  and  reach  Puycerdi,  whence  to 
Perpignan  by  daily  dil.,  6a  m. 

C  FromBagnircsdeLacboB,bythevaIleyt 
of  La  Noguera,  Pallaresa,  and  of  Aran.  Lu- 
chon  to  Portilkm ;  this  pass  is  practicable  in  all 
wciather,  and  a  guide  is  not  indispensable ;  dts- 
tanoe,  i  hr.  s  inin.  To  Boaoat,  a  hrs.  (Hdtcl 
du  Conuneroe,  decent  but  dearX  quite  a  Spanish 
town,  indifftrent.  Then  ard  three  routea  from 
Luchon  to  Boaost,  one  by  the  Portnion  ia  the 
shortest;  on  horse  or  foot,  8}nL,  3)  to4  hrs. ; 
another  by  La  Bacaftere,  on  foot ;  the  scenery 
is  finer,  fatigue  greater.  The  third  is  by  Pont 
de  Roi,  and  St  B^at ;  good  carriage-road,  %$ 
m.  A  itH^  tmmert  is  recommended  to  avoid 
heat  and  dust  To  Viella,  s  hr.  from  Artias ; 
from  this  to  Salardu,  first  French  vDlage,  t  hr. 
so  min.  Now  readi  Col  de  Plat  de  Bcrch. 
To  Aka,  last  French  douane  atation  in  valley 
of  Aneu»  about  3  hra.,  then  Gil,  40  min. ; 
Gurrsn,  ao  min. ;  Iiabarre,  |  hr. ;  Eslerri  de 
Aneu,  40  min.  Of  the  two  roads  here,  take 
the  left  one:  toBacalo,  a  hra. ;  to  Uabersi,  a 
hra. ;  sleep  there.  Next  day,  to  San  Juan  de 
Leira,  and  leaving  to  right  road  to  Siort,  pro* 
ceed  through  the  Col  de  la  Besaota,  then  to 
Castellbo^  then  by  a  good  nmle-path  to  ViOn- 
mitjana;  to  Urgel  and  Barcelona  thera  b  a 
road  frott  Amaa4aa-Baina»  diataace  mtI  lul* 


Kfl. 

Am^lie  lo  Aries  .       ...       4 

La  Tech la 

The  Canigou,  9144  ft.,  amy 

be  ascended  frtmi  this  by  way  of 

Corsair. 
Prats  de  MoUo    ....       7 

CamprodoQ 19^ 

Baroekina 105 

7*k  «»>•  »47* 

« 

AT.  A— Pedestrians  may  aaceiKi  the  Can!gou» 
by  way  of  Prats  de  Mollo  to  Vernet,  9  hra. 
From  Vemet  to  Perpignan,  daily  public  con- 
veyances, price  8fr.,  33^  m.  ;  time  4  hra.  as  nu 
For  more  details  and  other  routes,  see  Joanne's 
*  Itin^raire,'  i  vol  with  plans  and  mapa,  lofr. : 
Dr.  Lambron's  work,  together  with  Mr.  Packe's 
Gtdde  t0  the  Pyrttutt,  Longman,  London, 
1867,  new  edition  with  maps,  diagram,  and 
tableSk  For  aacensions  in  this  part  of  the 
Pyreneea,  we  very  warmly  recoaunend  Comte 
H.  Russell  KiUoi^h's  special  work  on  the  sub- 
ject, *  Lea  Grandes  Asccnuions,'  with  is  amps,  1 
voL  4fr.  Also  for  other  Pyrenean  routes  from 
France  Inte  Spain,  see  Z/tm^nm,  *A  ragmt.* 

From  CampTHUm  and  Vick.—^amprodaH^ 
4000  inhab.,  on  left  bank  of  the  Riutort,  nKWt 
uninteresting;  dil  to  Ripoll  by  San  Juan  de 
las  Abadesas,  which  is  close  to  an  important 
coal  mine,  one  hr.*s  distance,  of  11  kiL  extent 
Ripoll  to  Puyoerdi,  a  very  bad  carreta  road. 
The  gorge  cslled  Las  Cobas  de  Ribas  b  very 
impoaiag. 

RipolL-^utoo  iahabi— at  the  confluence  of 
the  Ter  and  Fraser.  During  the  dvil  war  thb 
dty  waa  entirely  burnt  up,  and  is  being  slowly 
rabuilt  again.  See  the  ruins  of  a  magnificent 
Benedictine  monastery  founded  by  Count 
Wifred  £1  Velludo,  which  became  the  Eacorial 
or  burial-house  of  the  Counta  of  Barcelona. 
The  capitab  of  cdunms  are  most  daboratdy 
worked  out  with  hunun  and  allegorical  heads ; 
the  central  nave  is  of  9th  and  loth  century, 
the  transept  and  apse  of  the  nth. 

Kibl.— Dil  toVich  from  Ripoll  by  Puyoeidi— 
sa,ooo  inhab.,  Bishop's  See :  the  plains  around 
are  watered  fajthe  Ter,  and  from  them  the  Mon- 
seny  and  Pyrenees  may  be  seen.  Vich,  the  Ro- 
num  Ansa,  aad  Gothic  Ausona,  became  Vicua- 
Ausooe,  aiid  waa  tmder  the  exdusive  jurisdic- 
tion of  the  Bishop,  though  the  upper  portion 
belonged  to  the  Moncada  family.  It  finally  be- 
casae  the  propeity  of  the  crown,  under  Jaime 
II.,  about  t4sa  The  streets  ara  narrow  and 
iD-paved ;  the  only  interesting  sight  hera  b  the 
taUudrtUt  iriiich  waa  built  about  1040,  but  re- 
paired and  BKMlemised  about  the  ead  of  the  18th 
teatuiy :  who  the  architect  waa  b  aot  kaowa. 
We  only  kaov  that  te  S3as»  the  amcatro  amyos 


BABCKIONA. 


41 


iRainooDes|iiiig,aiidiiii333oneLadenKMa. 

llie oattide  b  Tciy  iadUlerent;  the  interior  it 
divided  into  three  naves,  which  are  bold  and 
eleganL  The  transept  b  formed  by  lofty  pillars 
somewhat  thin;  the  Gothic  dobters  are  of  the 
richest  and  most  elegant  character.  They  were 
completed  in  1340.  Most  of  the  former  sepul- 
chres disappeared  when  the  cathedral  was  re- 
paired, and  then  also  were  blocked  up  the  sub- 
terraneous chapeb,  amonsst  which  was  the 
celebrated  CmpiUm  d«  Sm  ATie^Uu,  where  the 
natudne  or  fp^uUr  masses  were  celebrated, 
hi  the  beginninf  of  the  14th  century,  on  the 
festival  of  St  Stephen,  and  the  epi^e  of  hb 
martyrdom  was  sung  in  Limousin  of  the  13th 
century.  The  CapOb  del  Santo  Espiritu  b  a 
fine  Udlding,  and  dates  i344-i35''  In  the  ar- 
chivo  and  library  b  kept  a  bible  of  the  13th 
century,  very  richly  illuminated,  the  poem  of 
Dande  de  Prades,  and  a  curious  book  on 
Cttrtrm.  Conveyances:  diligence  to  Mollet 
and  Granollers,  both  stations  on  the  Gcrooe,  to 
BarcckmaHne:  fores, R. berlina,  i8r. ;  int,  i6r. ; 
banq.,  i4r. 

GrmMoUert^  capital  of  the  Vallds,  3500  faihab., 
b  uninteresting :  church  of  the  isth  century. 
In  the  vicinity  are  the  celebrated  springs  of 
CaMas  {htt  springs)  de  il<»ibuy  (see  Mineral 
Establishments,  General  InformatioaX 

Pr9m    Puyctrdd    mttd    U^^L—Pmycerdd 
18,000  inhabk,  is49mHres(4o85  ft.)  high ;  a  very 


wTOtched,  dirty  village,  with  an  bdiffBrent 
church  of  Sta.  Barbara.  From  thb  to  Urge! 
by  a  mule-path  ;  excellent  trout-fishing  and 
shooting.  Go  to  Deliver  by  a  carriageable 
road.  Deliver,  600  hihab.,  ruins  of  a  medbsval 
castle  ;  magnificent  and  extensive  views  are 
obtained  from  the  town,  whence  its  graphic 
name.  Then  through  a  defile  to  Puente  de 
Var,  after  crossing  Martinet ;  then  by  the  right 
bank  of  the  Stfgre  to  UrgeL  Urgti,  or  Sea 
(see  of  UrgelX  it  a  bishop's  see,  3000  inhab. 
The  cathedral  b  indifferent:  the  cfobters  of 
13th  century.  Two  m.  W.  are  the  three  forts 
which  defend  the  dty,  the  Citadel,  the  C:astiUo, 
andtheTorradeSobona.  Proceed  to  Spitmm, 
s67t  inhab.  Cmrdommy  S366  inhab.,  ck)se  to 
river  Cardoner.  Its  Castillo  b  very  strongly 
built,  and  situated  N.E.  DiL  for  and  from 
PuycerdA  two  a-week.  From  Cardona  to 
Mauresa,  and  then  by  rail  to  Baroekma  hi  s  hrs., 
two  trains  a-day :  line  from  Zaragosa  to  Barce- 
kma.  There  b  a  second  road  from  and  to  Vk:h. 
Vichto  Granollers  by  diL,  £^ :  offices  at  Barce- 
kma.  No.  7  Calte  de  Asahouadots,  Mcaon  de 


Fnm,  or  to  MdrtartlL'-Bj  nul ;  line 
del  Ontro;  distance,  10|  m. ;  time, 
1  hr. ;  fares,  6r.  69c.,  4r.  7Ic ;  four 
traina  daily,  and  one  more  on  holidaya. 
(For  fubecquont  dcecrip.  aoe  p  '478.) 


BARCELONA. 

Capital  of  Province  of  same  name.    Population,  184,00a 

Distances—Madrid,  440  miles  (33  hours);  Paris,  41  hours ;  Pamplona,  339  miles  (14  hoursX 

Omnected  by  rail  with  all  the  principal  towns  on  the  coast 

Steamers  to  various  Mediterranean  ports,  including  the  Balearic  Islands. 


BaUwaj  Btationa,  fto.— Of  the  Ma- 
tar6  line,  Pnerta  del  Mar;  of  Granol- 
lers, Plata  de  la  Adoana  ;  of  Martorell, 
La  Rambla ;  of  Zar^^oia  ditto.  Gabs 
and  omniboBee  (for  first,  see  cab-lares) ; 
omniboses,  Sr.  per  person  ;  Ir.  to  4r. 
each  parcel,  acc<miing  to  size  and  weight, 
a  tariff ;  porters  (called  iaqnines)  carry 
Inggsge  to  or  from  hotels  for  5r.,a  tariff 
also ;  to  boatmen,  2r.  per  person,  Sr. 
per  parcel ;  to  load  or  unload,  2r.  a 
parcel  Mtle  price  beforehand,  or  ask 
for  tariff. 

Hotels.— 1st,  De  las  Cnatro  Nadones, 
on  Rambla  del  Centro,  kept  bj  Italians ; 
excellent  situation,  aspect  to  east;  few 
fireplaces.    A  good  hotel,  senrice  and 


cooking  included ;  charges  high.  Table 
d*hdte  at  6.80,  price  12r.,  with  rin 
ordinare ;  breakfast,  lOr.  ;  charges  ac- 
cording to  aspect  and  the  pito  (storey) ; 
sitting-rooms,  80r.  to  120r. ;  bedroom, 
8r.  to  lOr.,  eta  French  papers  taken 
in.  O>mmiasionnaires.  French  spoken. 
2d,  Del  Oriente,  not  &r  from  former, 
but  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Rambla ; 
western  exposure,  kept  by  Italians, 
about  same  charges,  perhaps  somewhat 
lower  than  former ;  gtrad  cooking. 
jVl^.— There  are  usually  no  female 
senrants  in  tl^  hotels  kept  by  Italian^ 
but  ladies  may  obtain  them  by  applica- 
tion at  the  bureau. 
I«odsincs.—Are  all  rery  second-rate ; 


43 


BARCELONA. 


pretty  villas,  mostly  nnfuniisbed,  are 
to  let  in  Paaeo  de  Gracia  and  other 
suburbs  for  £3  to  £5  a-month  :  they 
are  advertised  in  local  papers. 

Post-Oflloe. — Rambla  de  Sta.  Mo- 
nica, 1,  close  to  Hotel  de  las  Cnatro 
Nadones,  closed  1)  hr.  before  departure 
of  mails ;  21  letter-boxes  in  the  city,  col- 
lected at  12  p.  M.  and  2  and  5  P.  H.  Burean 
for  posts  restante,  prepaid  letters,  news- 
papers, etc,  open  from  8  A.U.  to  4  p.m. 
A  letter  takes  about  four  days  to  Lon- 
don, three  to  Paris,  two  to  Madrid. 

Telegraph  Offloe.- — Plaza  de  Pa- 
lacio,  2d  floor,  open  day  and  night 

History. — Barcelona  is  said  by  the 
learned  to  have  been  founded  by  the 
Carthaginian  Homilcar,  sumamed  Barca 
(Mmen  Latin^),  a  conmion  family  name 
with  the  Carthaginians,  according  to 
Niebuhr,  Heeren,  etc.,  about  the  year 
237  B.a,  according  to  Romcy.  Coesar 
Augustus  raiseil  it  to  a  'colonia,'  with 
the  names  of  Julia  Augusta,  Pia,  Fa- 
ventia,  etc.  Its  importance  now  daily 
increased,  and  tliere  are  many  vestiges, 
such  as  slabs,  fragments  of  altars,  col- 
umns, etc,  of  that  time,  which  are  so 
many  evidences  of  its  prosperity  under 
the  Romans.  Ataulfo,  the  fint  king  of 
theOoths,  chose  it  as  hiscourt,  and  made 
it  the  capital  of  Hispana-Gothia,  sub- 
sequently called  Septimania.  Shortly 
after  713,  Barcelona  fell  into  the  hands 
of  Abdul-Aziz.  The  Moon  did  not 
retain  it  long ;  for  Charlemagne,  on  the 
death  of  his  fkther,  thought  the  oppor- 
tunity a  favourable  one  to  extend  his 
dominions,  and  with  the  pretext  of 
coming  in  aid  to  his  Christian  brethren, 
he  and  his  son  Ludivic  expelled  the 
infidel  in  801,  who  had  ruled  for  88 
years  only,  and  then  quietly  added  the 
city  he  had  come  to  free  to  his  duchy 
of  Acquitaine,  of  which  it  became  the 
head.  '  Dies  me  libre  de  mis  amigos, 
que  yo  me  library  de  mis  enemigos.' 
Barcelona  was  n  m  governed  by  counts, 


who  in  874  became  hereditary,  when 
Charles  the  Bold  made  it  an  independ- 
ent kingdom  in  favour  of  and  to  reward 
Count  'Wilfred  el  Yelloso,  who  had  so 
eflectually  aided  him  against  the  Kor- 
mans.  One  of  its  greatest  counts, 
Ramon  Berenguer  lY.  (12th  centuiy), 
united  the  crowns  of  Catalufta  to  Aragon 
by  marriage  with  Petronila,  the  heiress 
to  this  latter  kingdom.  In  his  reign, 
Barcelona  became  the  emporium  of 
Southern  Europe^  and  the  capital  of  the 
most  powerfid  of  maritime  nations. 
Dockyards,  arsenals,  and  warehouses, 
were  numerous,  and  on  a  grand  scale, 
for  the  trade,  especiallywith  the  Levant, 
was  very  great ;  and  Barcelona  was  the 
rival  of  Genoa  and  Venice  It  became 
part  of  the  kingdom  when  Ferdinand 
of  Aragon  espoused  Isabella  of  Castile 
Always  more  or  less  ill-disposed,  but 
more  especially  since  Philip  III.,  Cata- 
lu&a  has  often  endeavoured  to  regain 
her  former  independence,  and  gave  her 
interest  and  money  at  one  time  to  the 
French,  at  another  to  the  Spaniard, 
whichever  held  out  the  better  prospect 
of  altainlng  that  end.  The  principedo 
has  been  always  a  focus  of  revolution, 
democracy,  and  pronnnciamientos. 
Barcelona,  in  the  middle  ages,  was 
thronged  with  proven9al  troubadon 
'de  la  gaye  sdense,'  and  councillon 
and  statesmen  who  framed  the  laws  of 
the  '  Consulado  del  Mar,*  a  commercinl 
code  which  dates  1279,  and  was  re- 
spected and  imitated  everywhere. 

With  reference  to  this,  tee  *le  Codigo  de  las 
Costumbres  Marittnus  de  Barcelona,' etc,  in 
Spanish  and  the  original  Limousin,  by  Cap- 
mani  y  Moopalau  ;  Madrid  1791,  a  vols,  in  4to  : 
and  about  the  early  trade  and  navy,  see 
'  Memorias  historicas  sobre  la  Marina,  Co- 
merdo,'  etc,  of  Barcelona  by  same  author ; 
Madrid,  Saiicha,  1779,  4  vols,  in  410,  one  of  the 
most  important  works  ever  published  00  trade 
and  navy  in  the  middle  ages,  from  which  Dep- 
ping,  *  Histoire  du  Commerce  entre  le,  Levant 
et  TEurope  depub  Ics  Croisadcs,'  etc,  and 
others  have  drawn  largely. 


BARCELONA. 


4? 


In  many  and  important  aimadas,  some 
nnmbering  200  soil,  80  and  more  laige 
galleys  were  often  equipped  here.    Aza- 
gon  (when  comprising  Gatalufia)  was 
very  proud,  and  justly  so,  of  its  pre- 
eminence on  the  sea  ;  and  such  was  the 
jealousy  felt   at  Barcelona  when  the 
rival  Castile  had  lent  its  aid,  money, 
and  fleet  to  Columhns,  that  though  it 
was  here  that  he  was  received  hy  the 
Catholic  kings,  to  whom  he  had  given  a 
world,  with  all  'the  pomp  and  circum- 
stance '  so  hrilliantly  described  by  W. 
Irving,  there  is  no  notice  of  such  an 
event  to  be  found  either  in  the  archives 
of  the  city  or  those  of  Aragon.    The 
DUtaria  of  1492  is  likewise  disdainfully 
silent  on   this   point      (See   Migor's 
*  Select  Letters  of  Christ  Columbus,' 
Hackluyt  Sos.  1857.      Barcelona  was 
at  an  early  period  a  centre  of  learning, 
and   one  of  the  first  cities  of  Spain 
where  printing  was  introduced,  and  ac- 
cording    to     'Annal.     Typogmph.  ;' 
'  IMbliotlicca  Vctus  ot  Nova,'  etc.,  the 
works  of  St  Thomas  were  published 
here  in  1471, the  'Commentaries  on  Aris- 
toteles,'  by  Fray  Boneti,    1473,  etc, 
(Fr.  Mendez,  in  his  'Typograph.  Es- 
pafiola,'.  Madrid   1796).    Here,    also, 
Jan.  17,  1543,  a  ship  of  200  tons  was 
launched,  which  was  made  to  move  by 
means   of  steam.      Its  inventor  was 
Blasco  de  Garay,  and  the  escperiment 
took  place  in  the  presence  of  a  com- 
mittee named  by  Charles  Y.  and  Philip 
II.    (The  memoir  which  contains  these 
and  other  details  is  at  Simancas. )    The 
invention  consisted  of  a  laige  boiler, 
which   moved   by   steam   two  wheels 
placed  at  the  sides  of  the  vessel    The 
experiment  seems  to  have  answered, 
but  the  trial  was  discouraged  by  the 
king's  treasurer,  R&vago,  who  was,  for 
some  personal  motive,  hostile  to  the 
inventor,  and    drew  up  a   report  in 
which  he  states  that  the  speed  did  not 
exceed  two  leagues  in  three  hours,  that 


the  machinery  was  too  complicated,  and 
the  boiler  likely  to  burst  Charles  Y., 
who  was  then  absorbed  in  political 
schemes  of  greater  moment,  did  not 
examine  the  thing  with  attention,  but 
paid  Garay  idl  expenses,  and  gave  him 
promotion  and  a  present  of  200,000 
maravedis.  But  he  was  di8C4}uraged, 
and  the  secret,  whatever  it  was,  died 
with  him.  Andrea  Navagero,  Yenetian 
ambassador  to  Charles  Y.,  speaks  thus 
of  this  dty,  which  he  visited  in  1526  : 
'  %  belliasima  dttlt  ed  in  bcllissimo  sito ; 
ed  ha  gran  copia  di  giardini  belissimi, 
di  mirti,  aranci,  e  cedri ;  le  case  buone 
e  comode,  fabbricate  di  pietra,  e  noK 
di  terra,  come  nd  resto  di  Catalogna. ' 

General  Desoription.  —  Barcdona 
is  the  second  laigest  dty  in  Spain,  and 
the  first  in  a  commerdal  view.     It  is 
most  prosperous  and  improving,  and 
although  called  the  Manchester  of  Span- 
ish  Lancashire  (Catalu&a),   it  is  free 
from  the  usual  annoyances  and  appear- 
ances diaractcristic  of  manufacturing 
towns.    The  mills  (cotton,   silk,   and 
woollen)  are  situated  at  some  distance 
outside  the  walls,  and  the  sons  of  toil, 
waggoners,  wharfingers,  and  the  sea- 
faring population,  are  confined  within 
the  suburbs.     The  happy  situation  of 
the  city  on  the  shores  of  the  Mediter- 
ranean, and  communicating  at  the  same 
time  with  the  Atlantic  ports  by  railway ; 
its  vicinity  to  France  and  Italy;  the 
facilities  of  living  the  climate  mild  in 
winter  and  agreeable  at  all  seasons ; 
the  enlightened,  kind,  and  bold-hearted, 
enterprising  people  who  are  seen  in  so 
thriving  a  condition,  are  all  so  many 
inducements     for    the    invalid     and 
general  tourist  to  linger   here.      We 
must  add  the  no  less  important  advan- 
tages of  which  otlier  medical  stations, 
such  as  Malaga,  Alicante,  etc.,  are  de- 
prived, viz.,  several  well-organised  libra- 
ries^ and  collections  of  natural  history 
and  antiquities,  a  first-rate  opera-house. 


44 


BARCKLONA. 


andaTirietr  of  ezconioiuinthe 
roBB.  Of  iocIb^,  whiofa  U  aftar  all  tha 
Icut  intanating  featnn  In  &  connti;, 
there  ii  little,  tliough  tha  BoroaloDeaa 
■re  paaionately  food  of  miuic,  dancing 
and  dreaa.  On  the  other  hand,  mere 
alght-aean  mnat  nmain  oomparatiTelj 
idle  her^  al  moat  of  thia  handaoma 
titj  has  b«en  either  modeniiaad  or  en- 
tirelr  nhullt,  mriag  th«  tortaona  and 
naiTOw  but  pictnnwiQa  qnatten  in- 
habited bj  the  lowor  claasea  ;  and 
b««dM  the  cathedral  and  one  or  two 
other  chnrchea  (which  are  certainly  in- 
teresting euinplea  of  Catalonian- 
Oothio  architectare},  there  an  faw  ob- 
ject* that  deaerre  tha  attention  of 
the  attiat.  On  quitting  Barcelona, 
July  1844,  Waabingtaa  Irring  gara 
hia  opinion  of  tha  citj  thna  : — '  I  leave 
thii  hcBQtiral  city  with  regret  .  .  . 
Indsed,  one  anjoya  the  very  poetry  of 
«xiat«nce  in  theae  aoft  aonthem  climatea 
which  border  the  Ueditemneao.  All 
hara  1*  pictnn  and  romance.  Nothing 
hai  given  me  greater  delight  than  occa- 
aional  evening  drivea  with  tome  of  my 
diplomatic  colleagara  to  thoaa  country' 
■eata,  or  lorrtt,  ai  tbcy  are  called,  ajtn- 
ated  on  the  atopea  of  the  hill*,  two  or 
three  mUea  from  the  city,  aurronnded 
by  grara  of  orangca,  dtrona,  Sga,  l)o- 
megranatea,  etc.,  with  terraced  gardena 
gay  with  flowen  and  fountaina.  Here 
we  would  ait  on  tha  lofty  terrace*  over- 
looking the  rich  and  varied  plain,  tha 
distant  city  gilded  hj  the  aetting  ann, 
and  the  blue  tea  beyond.  ITotUng  can 
be  purer  and  aofter  and  iWMter  than  the 
evening  air  Inhaled  in  theae  bvonred 
retlMtB.'  Cerrantca,  who  knew  evety 
town  in  Spain,  and  wa*  a  great  traveller 
for  hi*  day,  dcscribeait  enthnalBaticBlly 
al  tha  '  Qor  de  laa  helUa  dndade*  del 
mnndo,  honra  de  Eepaha,  regalo  j  de- 
lieia  de  ana  moradorta  y  aatiafacdon  de 
todo  aqoello  que  da  ona  gnude,  bmoaa. 


tica  y  bieu  hndida  dndad  paede  pedii 
on  diacnto  y  eoiioao  deaeo. ' 

OUiiiato.--Thoagh  ihelta«d  on  the 
weatem  aide  by  the  high  hill  of  Hont- 
Juich,  Barcelona  ia  aomewhat  ezpoacd 
to  the  north  and  ta*t  wind*.  The  t«m- 
peratnn  ia  very  mild  ;  it  anow*  very 

oeed*  81*  Cent  (87  7ahT.),  nor  fall*  be- 
low 2*  under  icro  (28  Fahr).  It  rained 
06  day*  in  the  year  1801.     The  average 

{*sg. 

Tkg  ■v«nf«  wlalar  tempcnnn  .  .  jo-iS 
Cold  wind*  an  not  freqneDt,  and  the 
elinute  i*  dry.  The  moat  prevalent 
diaeaaea  are  catairhsl,  rhanmatia,  dya- 
peptic,  and  nerroiu  affection*.  Jan- 
nary  ia  about  the  only  month  to  avoid, 
Mpedally  in  bronchial  complaint*. 

Barcelona  i*  Ut  II'  M  S8*  N.,  long. 
2*S'11*E.     The  orange  and  palm  grow 

UKTEOKO  LOGICAL  OBSERVATIONS 
mad*  at  Iba  Uanoulr  of  Baictlau.  — iWi. 
CnUifmJi  Thtrmtumltr . 


Avarafc  pnourt  of 


BABOELONA. 


45 


Streets,  SqiiArefl,  •to. — The  prin- 
dptl  streets  are  rtty  well  pftyed,  wide, 
•nd  long,  such  as  Oatte  d$  lienumdOt 
whichisthehmdsomesty  aadwliereihere 
ere  some  Parisisii-lookiiiig  shops  ;  Oalle 
Aneha,  which  runs  panllel  with  the 
MnralU  del  Mar ;  tbeJRanMa,  which  is 
a  fine  broad  boolerard,  with  trees  and 
a  promenade  in  the  centre,  and  reodres 
different  names  to  designate  portions  of 
it,  such  as  Sambla  del  OenirOf  d$  Urn 
OapueMmM,  etc     It  is  1120  metres 
(1100  yards)  lon^  and  rons  in  a  straight 
line  to  the  sea.    It  is  a  constant  pro* 
menade,  espedallj  towards  the  erening ; 
and  here  the  best  hotels,  theatres,  dili- 
gence offices,  etc,  are  dtoated.     OaXU 
de  la  Plateria  is  the  (ooerfl  of  the  sUyer- 
smiths,  in  whose  shops  amateurs  of 
Tert6  now  end  then  pick  up  a  fine  speci- 
men of  8iiTersmith-w<»^  of  former  times. 
See  abo  the  earrings  worn  bj  the  pajesas 
or  country-women,   of  antique  form. 
The  principal  tquaret  are— Pfasoi   de 
Palado,  with  a  Carara  marble  fountain 
in  the  centre,  representing  the  genii  of 
the  four  provinces  of  CSatalulka,  with 
attributes,  flowers^   etc,  executed  by 
Italian  artists.   A  winged  genius  crowns 
the  monument,  on  the  principal  front 
of  which  is  the  escutcheon  of  the  Mar- 
quis of  GampO'Sagrado^  formerly  Capt- 
Qeneral  of  Oatalufta,  with  the  proud 
motto  of  his  fiunily,  '  Despues  de  Dios 
k  Casa  de  Quirds.'    Pkun  Rtal^  sur- 
rounded by  handsome  new  houses  with 
arcades,  in  imitation  of  the  Palais  Royal 
in  Parii^  with  a  fine  monument  in  the 
centre  erected  to  the  memory  of  the 
Catholic  kings,  with  basd-relieTi  repre- 
senting some  of  the  principal  erents  of 
their  reign,  and  Ferdinand  the  CSatholic's 
statue  on  the  summit  Plaaut  del  Teatro^ 
elose  to  Hotel  de  las  Cuatro  Naciones  ; 
in  centre  an  Egyptian-looking  pyramidal 
monument  crowned  with  an  allegorical 
statue  of  Bamelona;  this  fountain  is 
called 'Font  da  YeU' in  OataUn.    In 


Plan  d$  Medinacdi  there  Is  a  paltiy 
statue  raised  in  1851  to  Galceran  Mar- 
quet,  one  of  the  greatest  seamen  Cata- 
lufta  has  produced.  The  obelisk  in  Pfasa 
d4  San  Pedro  dates  1072,  and  the  statue 
is  of  Sta.  Euhdia,  the  tutelar  of  Bar- 
celona. 

Fortress. — ^From  its  situation  and 
importance,  Barcelona  has  been  yery 
strongly  fortified    On  the  N.  side  are 
the  Atarammoi  which  Join  the  dtadeL 
The  Atarazanas  were  built  by  Jaime  el 
Conquistador,  1248,  as  arsenals  for  the 
nayy,  and  extended  formerly  to  Plasa 
de  Palaeio.    The  name  Arabic^  means 
dockyards,  whence  the  Catalan  dressana 
and  Uie  Spanish  dirsena.    These  could 
hold  already,  in  the  time  of  James  II., 
26  large  gdleys  under  shelter  and  se- 
cure   Alargegalley  used  to  cost  then 
(14th  century)  about  28,780r.,  and  the 
yearly  expense  (seamen,  rigging;  etc) 
about  18,120r.    Now  the  AUrasanas 
comprise  infantry  and  caraliy  barracks 
(7000  men  in  all).    Its  construction, 
though  andent,   is  interesting.    The 
citadel  was  begun  in  1715,  and  designed 
by  Philip  Y.'s  minister,  OliTsres,  to 
hare  command  oyer  the  dty.    It  ii  a 
regular  pentagon  of  1155  ft  on  each 
dde ;  most  of  the  edifices  are  not  bomb- 
proof.     The    FuerU   de  CarUm  and 
Fuerie  Pio  are  destined  to  cut  communi- 
cations  between    Barcdona   and   the 
country  and  attacks  by  the  old  French 
road.    The  Cadle  of  Mofujuvk,  8.  of 
the  town,  is  placed  on  an  isolated  hill 
about  785  ft.  aboye  the  leyd  of  the  sea. 
It  is  of  irregular  form,  with  a  roduU 
composed  of  four  fronts,  to  the  sea,  and 
port,  and  to  the  country.     This  is  truly 
the  most  important  fortification,  and  he 
who  holds  it  holds  the  whole  dty  in 
check  and  in  his  power,  for  from  its 
great   deyation    and    proximity    the 
cunred  fires  (the  direct  ones  would  not 
be  so  certain)  could  destroy  the  dty. 
The  name  is  sdd  by  some  to  mean 


i 


46 


BABOELONA. 


Mons  Jovis,  from  *  temple  raised  to 
Jupiter  on  tiiat  hill,  and  by  others  Hill 
of  the  Jevrs,  whose  cemetery  was  for- 
merly sitoated  between  the  hill  and  the 
city.  When  the  Archdoke,  Charles  of 
Austria,  who  claimed  from  Philip  Y. 
the  Spanish  crown,  landed  close  by 
Badalona  (Sept  1705),  Lord  Peter- 
borough attacked  Hoiguich,  and,  by  a 
daring  surprise,  took  it  on  the  14th  of 
that  same  month,  obliging  the  Spanish 
general  Velasco  to  abandon  Barcelona. 
In  the  Peninsular  war  it  was  taken  by 
Duhosme,  by  a  stratagem  not  unlike 
that  used  towards  Pamplona  (1808), 
and  surrendered  to  Marshal  Hones  by 
Mina  in  1823. 

The  Port. — ^The  port  has  been,  and 
continues  to  be,  yearly  improved.  It 
is  large,  commodious ;  but  the  bar  at 
the  entrance  is  not  without  danger,  and 
the  assistance  of  pilots  is  deemed  neces- 
sary to  enter  or  go  out  The  harbour 
is  formed  by  a  jetty  of  considerable 
length,  with  a  lighthouse  and  some 
batteries.  Oo  one  side,  K,  extends 
the  well-peopled  barrio  or  quartier 
called  Barceloneta,  and  on  the  opposite 
is  the  fort  of  Ataraxanas,  and  the  quays 
called  Muralla  del  Mar.  In  the  14th 
and  15th  centuries,  when  the  port  was 
always  crowded  with  fleets  of  merchant- 
men, the  entrance  was  not  above  84  ft 
deep,  and  the  sandbanks  or  bar  called 
tasca  (atatcar,  from  slaneare)  was  a 
great  natural  defence.  Though  granted 
in  1438  by  Alfonso  Y.  of  Aragon,  the 
works  for  the  mole  did  not  begin  before 
the  20th  September  1474,  after  the  de- 
signs and  under  the  direction  of  an 
engineer  from  Alexandria,  called  Itacio; 
but  this  mole  was  a  very  imperfect  work, 
and  even  after  sevend  augmentations 
and  much  expense,  it  was,  we  read  in 
Capmany,  about  600  feet  long  in  the  end 
of  17th  century ;  though  in  the  accu- 
rate 'life  of  the  Duke  of  Osuna,' 
written  in  Italian  by  Leti,  Amsterdiuu, 


1700,  400  only.  The  works  were  re- 
newed in  1758,  and  completed  in  1764. 
Several  additions  have  been  but  le- 
cently  finished.  The  depth  of  water 
within  the  mole  is  from  18  ft.  to  20  ft 
Yessels  of  no  great  sixe  moor  at  a  short 
distance  firom  the  mole,  but  laiger  ships 
must  anchor  outside. 

The  Trade  is  brisk,  and  the  railways, 
which  now  centre  in  Barcelona,  will 
increase  it  The  principal  imports  are 
raw  cotton  and  colonial  products,  prin- 
cipally from  Cuba  and  Puerto  Rico  ; 
iron,  machinery,  coal,  from  England. 
Catalufia  is  the  greatest  manufacturing 
centre  in  Spain,  and  principal  seat  of 
the  cotton  trade.  In  1858,  80,043  bales, 
worth  4,516,244  dols.,  were  shipped 
from  the  United  States  to  Barcelona, 
and  about  100,000  persons  are  engaged 
in  the  trade.  The  exports  are  Wrought 
silks,  cotton  stufis,  soap,  firearms, 
paper,  etc.,  almonds,  nuts,  etc  ;  the 
value  of  cargoes  exported  and  imported 
in  1856  being  about  £8,228,198.  See 
for  more  details, '  RevistadeEstadistica,' 
the  Catalonian  one  as  well  as  that  pub- 
lished at  Madrid,  the  consular  returns, 
etc  In  1860,  whilst  the  queen  was  at 
Barcelona,  the  'Ictineo,'  or  submarine 
ship  was  launched  most  successfully. 
She  has  been  invented,  or  rather  modi- 
fied (as  the  idea  is  not  new),  by  Se&or 
MonturioL  It  can  remain  two  or  more 
hours  under  water,  and  is  moved  by 
screws.  Sefior  Monturiol  has  published 
a  memoir  explaining  his  system. 

Bights.— The  Cathedral ;  aiurch  of 
Sta.  Maria  del  Mar ;  Sta.  Muria  del 
Pino  ;  Lo^ja ;  Casa  de  la  Diputacion. 
Private,  early  houses  of  Dusay  and  of 
Gnilhk 

The  Cathedral — (la  Sen  or  Soo). — 
The  old  cathedral  of  Barcelona  was  con- 
verted by  the  Moors  into  a  mosque,  and 
partly  rebuilt  and  augmented  by  Count 
Ramon  Berenguer  I.  But  as  the  im- 
portance of  the  city  grew  with  the 


BARCELONA — OATUEDRAL. 


47 


establishment  of  the  Court  of  Aragon, 
James  IL,  in  1298,  laid  the  first  stone 
of  a  new  cathedral,  which  was  finished 
in  1448.  Style,— The  style  is  Gothic, 
or  what  we  should  more  appropriately 
call  Catalonian,  and  it  exhibits  the 
characteristics  of  the  first  and  latter 
period  of  that  style  in  Spain.  It  is 
sober,  elegant,  harmonious,  and  simple; 
not  crowded  with  sculpturing  and  orna- 
mentation, as  was  the  case  at  the  close 
of  the  14  th  century,  and  it  mostly  be- 
longs to  the  best  and  purest  period  of 
ogiral  architecture.  There  are  portions 
left  unfinished,  such  as  the  grand  portal, 
etc.,  and  others  of  the  vilest  churrigue- 
rcsque,  as  the  lateral  chapels,  etc  On 
the  whole,  there  are  here  no  great  speci- 
mens of  genius  or  especial  taste. 

llxt«rior. — It  is  approached,  as  is 
usual  in  Catalufia,  by  an  elerated  flight 
of  steps,  which  renders  the  edifice  more 
effective.  The  principal  £ifade  was 
never  finished.  Tlie  design  for  the 
portal  is  kept  in  the  archives  of  the 
cathedral.  Though  much  effaced  by 
time  and  neglect,  it  exhibits  a  magnifi- 
cent specimen  of  the  florid  style  of  the 
16th  century.  It  is  ascribed  to  Barto- 
lom^  Gual  and  Roque.  The  door  lead- 
ing to  the  doister  from  Oalle  del  Obispo 
is  Byxantine,  as  is  the  small  belfry,  the 
bell  of  which  is  the  oldest  in  Barcelona. 
The  helfry  Unoen  are  very  lofty,  and 
date  end  of  14th  century.  The  present 
dock  is  comparatively  modem,  but  the 
former  one  was  the  oldest  Imown  in 
Spain,  dated  1393,  and  therefore  older 
than  that  at  Seville.  (Capmany,  'Mem. 
Hist,'  book  iv.)  At  each  side  of  the 
Forial  de  la  Inqui$ieum  is  a  slab  with 
inscription  containing  the  date  Hay 
1298,  when  the  cathedral  was  begun, 
and  the  other  the  continuance  or  prose- 
cution of  the  works  in  1829.  Over  the 
portal  there  is  a  relievo,  representing, 
though  most  rudely  rendered,  the  le- 
gendary fight  between  Vikrdell  and  the 


Dragon.  This  monster  was  let  loose  by 
the  Moors,  when  this  hero  was  oUiged 
to  abandon  to  them  his  castle  in  the  * 
Yal^  Ood  appearing  to  him  under  tne 
garb  of  a  pauper,  tried  first  his  charity, 
.and  being  satisfied,  gave  him  a  miracu- 
lous sword,  whish  cleft  rocks  and  the 
thickest  trees.  He  then  met  the  dragon 
and  killed  him,  upon  which,  as  he  was 
more  of  a  huntsman  than  a  pious  gentle- 
man, he  gave  vent  to  his  Joy,  and 
exclaimed,  '  Well  done,  mighty  sword, 
and  not  less  mighty  arm  of  Vilardell ! ' 
Just  then  he  felt  on  his  arm  some  drops 
from  the  dragon's  blood  which  dripped 
from  the  blade  he  held  up  in  exultation  ; 
and  as  it  was  the  subtlest  poison  he 
died  instantly.  Ood  thus  'castigando 
suvanagloria. 

The  name  of  the  architect  who  de- 
signed the  cathedral  is  not  ascertained 
The  Mallorquin  Jaime  Fabre  (1817)  is 
known  to  have  directed  the  works  in 
the  beginning.  In  1888,  the  Maestro 
Roque  succeeded  him.  Escuder  (middle 
of  15th  century)  is  the  last  architect 
mentioned  in  the  archives.  The  cathe- 
dral was  first  named  Sta.  Cruz,  to  which 
the  name  of  Sta.  EulaUa  was  added 
when  this  saint's  body  was  brought  to 
this  church. 

Interior. — The  plan  is  cruciform.  The 
church,  though  exclusively  Catalan  as 
to  detiils,  is  not  Spanish  in  plan,  but 
approaches  rather  Uie  French  arrange- 
ment of  an  aisle  and  chapels  round  the 
apse.  Such  is  at  least  Mr.  Street's 
opinion.  It  is  divided  into  three  spa- 
cious naves,  formed  by  somewhat  mas- 
sive pillars,  with  elegant  shafts  semi- 
attached  and  topped  by  elaborately- 
worked  capitals,  from  which  nineteen 
arches  spring  to  form  a  vaulted  roofl  The 
preabytery  is  surrounded  by  ten  columns 
of  a  good  style.  The  portion  between 
the  choir  and  the  principal  entrance 
dates  1420;  but  some  authors  are  of 
opinion  that  it  is  of  1329.    Observe  the 


48 


BARCELONA — CATHEDRAL. 


bold  tnd  elfectiTe  arch  which  rests  apon 
the  two  first  piers,  and  the  open-work 
clerestory  or  balustrade  over  the  portal 
and  its  lateral  chapels. 

Under  the' high  altar  is  a  crypi  called 
Oaittlla  and  Sepulcro  de  Sta.  Enlalia. 
It  is  not  always  shown  to  visitors,  and 
is  not  remarkable.  It  was  built  and 
completed  1888,  by  Fabre,  and  the 
body  of  the  saint  removed  in  following 
year  from  the  chnrch  of  Sta.  Maria  del 
Mar,  where  it  had  been  kept  since  878. 
The  general  plan  and  design  are  like 
that  of  the  sepulchre  of  SS.  Peter  and 
Paul  in  the  Vatican.  The  urn  is  of 
alabaster,  with  many  mezzi-relievi  re- 
presenting scenes  from  the  life  of  the 
saint.  It  is  lighted  up  by  lamps,  which 
bum  without  intermission.  '  The  plan- 
ning of  the  nave,'  says  Street,  '  is  very 
peculiar.  The  chapels  in  the  south 
aisle  have  a  row  of  other  chapels,  which 
open  into  the  cloister,  placed  back  to 
back  with  them,  and  the  windows  which 
light  the  former  open  into  the  latter, 
showing,  when  seen  from  the  nave  cha- 
pels, their  glass ;  and  when  seen  from 
the  cloister  chapels,  the  dark  piercings 
of  their  openings.  The  arrangement  is 
eztnemely  picturesque.'  The  transepts 
■how  themselves  only  on  the  ground- 
plan,  where  they  form  porches. 

High  AUar. — ^The  arches  of  the  apse 
are  too  narrow  and  poor;  indeed,  the 
columns  throughout  are  deficient  in  the 
distribution  of  their  very  thin  mould- 
ings. The  high  altar  forms  a  pleasing 
ensemble  of  piUarets  and  open-work 
ornamentation.  The  form  is  that  of  a 
temple,  in  the  centre  of  which,  above 
the  tabernacle,  is  a  picture  of  the  cruci- 
fixion. The  colour  of  the  stone  adds 
to  the  general  sombre  effect 

Th4  Choir  is  of  good  proportions, 
and  deserves  attention.  The  canopies 
of  the  stalls  of  the  upper  row  are  by  the 
Qerman  sculptors,  Michael  Loker  and 
Johan  Friedrich  (1487).    The  work  is  I 


most  excellent  The  pinnacles  and 
canopies  were  pronounced  faulty  by  the 
chapter,  who  did  not  pay  the  sculptor 
the  f^  amount  agreed  upon.  The 
lower  row  was  sculptured  by  Matias 
Bonaf(^  1488.  In  the  agreement  jMssed 
between  him  and  the  chapter,  a  curious 
daose  occurs,  by  which  the  sculptor 
was  forbidden  to  introduce  images, 
figures,  or  beasts  of  any  kind,  and  to 
limit  himself  to  the  leaf  ornamentation. 
The  jm/pi^  is  rich,  but  indifferent  The 
staircase  leading  to  it,  with  its  arched 
doorway,  traceried  handrail,  and  open 
iron-woric  door,  should  be  carefully 
noticed.  On  the  back  of  each  stall  is 
the  painted  shield  of  each  of  the  knights 
of  the  Golden  Fleece,  who  held  in  this 
choir  a  general  assembly  or  chapter, 
presided  over  by  Charles  Y.,  March  5, 
1519.  This  was  a  grand  scene,  fit  for  a 
painter  to  take  up.  The  walls  were 
hung  with  rich  tapestries  and  velvets. 
On  one  side  rose  the  vacant  throne, 
canopied  with  black  velvet  hangings  of 
Maximilian  I.  On  the  opposite  side, 
on  one  of  brocade,  sat  Charles  V.,  then 
only  king  of  Spain,  and  around  him 
Christian  King  of  Denmark,  Sigismund 
King  of  Poland,  the  Prince  of  Orange, 
Duke  of  Alba,  of  Frias,  Cms,  and  the 
flower  of  the  nobility  of  Spain  and 
Flanders.  Kings,  on  entering  Barcelona 
for  the  first  time,  were  obli^d  to  take 
the  oath  to  d^iend  and  never  transgress 
the  popular  laws  (fueros)  of  fiarcelona ; 
the  councils  (Jura)  used  to  take  place 
in  different  parts  of  the  city,  and  before 
the  High  Altar  in  this  cathedral  When 
Charles  Y.,  in  1519,  visited  the  city, 
he  wished  to  be  received,  not  as  a  king, 
but  as  one  of  the  former  counts  ;  'for,' 
said  he,  'I  would  rather  be  count  of 
Barcelona  than  king  of  the  Romans.' 
Several  councils  have  taken  place  here. 
On  June  20, 1525,  Francis  I.  of  France, 
then  a  prisoner,  heard  mass  in  the 
chapel  of  Sta.  Eulalia. 


BABOILOMA — GATHKDRAL. 


49 


iiM  ZTVMOfv  IS  ft  goou  spoctmcn  oi 
the  Rem«l  in  Spain,  and  tiie  work  of 
Fdbo  Yilar  of  Z•ngoa^  who  followad 
the  dmgpM  of  Bertolom^  Ordano^  date 
1564.  It  is  composed  of  a  series  of 
bsflsi-ielieTi  representing  scenes  from 
the  life  of  Sta.  Enlalia,  on  white  marUe, 
and  with  cdnmns  of  the  Doric  order. 

The  imnbt  in  the  cathedral  are  mostly 
indifferent  Close  to  the  sacristy  are 
those  of  Berengoer  el  Y icjo  and  Almodis 
his  wife  ;  the  inscriptions  are  modem. 
In  achapel,  close  to  that  of  San  Olagoer, 
is  an  elegant  tomb  of  DoAa  Sancha  de 
Gabrera,  SeAora  de  Noralles ;  a  finer 
one  is  that  of  Bishop  Ssealas,  in  the 
Chapel  d$  Urn  Innoeenia,  Tery  elaborately 
scnlptored,  the  details  of  dress,  beard, 
hair,  etc.,  being  rery  delioate--Oothic. 
That  of  San  Olagner,  whose  body  eight 
centories  hare  not  been  able  to  deoom- 
pose,  is  indifferent;  his  body  may  be 
easily  seen,  dressed  in  poni\/ieaiibu$, 
from  the  camarin  of  the  altar. 

The  ttained  wi$uUfw$  are  amongst  the 
finest  in  Spain,  and  date  between  1418 
and  1660.  They  are  not  of  large  site, 
bat  the  richness  of  their  bines,  purples, 
and'reds,  is  as  fresh  as  when  first  they 
were  painted.  The  duMpeU  are  indif* 
ferent,  mostly  chnrrigaeresqne.  See 
behind  the  apee  (which  is  itself  one  of 
the  best  things  in  the  cathedral)  the 
eradfiz  called  Cristo  de  Lepanto.  It 
was  carried  on  the  prow  of  the  flagship 
of  D.  Joan  of  Anstria,  at  the  battle  of 
Lepanto.  It  is  Tiolently  inclined,  be* 
cause  as  the  Moors  directed  their  mus- 
ketry  sgainst  the  sacred  imager  the 
image  turned  aside^  and  thus  aToided 
the  infidels*  ballets.  The  ultra  fidthful 
beliere  that  the  small  galley  placed  here 
also  mores  and  tarns  according  to  the 
wind  I  Amongst  the  cariosities  {curio- 
Madei),  see  an  infant  Jesus,  to  which 
Ferdinand  YIL  gare  the  insignia  of 
field-marshal,  and  his  queen,  Amelie  of 
Saxony,  the  badge  of  Maria  Laisa.    The 


reUqnaries  are  fine.  The  jMsnlinfi^  few 
and  of  no  great  merit,  are— in  Gs|>illa 
de  San  Olagaer,  some  pictores  by  Ant 
Yiladomat  (1678  to  1766);  the  rest  in 
this  chapel  also^  and  in  that  of  San 
Pablo  and  San  Marcos,  are  by  Fran 
Tramnllas  of  Perpignan,  who  Ured  in 
the  18th  eentory,  and  his  son  Manuel. 
The  doisterf  are  interesting ;  they  were 
begun  by  Boque.  In  148S,  Quel  suc- 
ceeded him,  and  they  were  finished  in 
1448 ;  they  were  principally  the  work 
of  Bishop  Sapera.  Obswre  t^e  elegant 
egiral  door  on  the  CaUe  del  Obispo,  the 
first  door  to  left,  and  CapUla  de  Sta. 
Lucia ;  this  portion  is  the  oldest  in  the 
whole  edifice.  The  tombs  are  indif- 
ferent Notice,  nerertheless,  that  of 
Mossen  (abbr.  for  Mossenyor,  or  Mon- 
senyor,  my  lord)  Borra,  the  nom  de 
guerra  of  Antonio  Tallander,  the  buffoon 
of  Alfonso  Y.  el  Sabio  of  Aragon,  ob.  about 
1483;  see  his  jocose  epitaph,  calling  him 
Mile^glorioeus,  and  the  bells  on  his  dress. 
In  the  chapel  of  La  Concepoion  there 
used  to  be  a  picture  ordoed  by  the 
municipality  (1661)  to  be  painted  in 
thanksgiving  for  her  intercession  in  be- 
half of  Uie  city  at  the  time  of  the  plague. 
It  ceased  some  days  after,  and  the  keys 
of  the  city,  made  in  silTsr  for  the  occa- 
sion, wsre  presented  to  her.  See  the 
fountain  dt  loi  Oca$  (of  the  Geese).  It 
stands  in  the  centre  of  a  pleasant  oourt 
full  of  orange-trees  and  flowers.  The 
Bithap*$  /loiacf,  on  the  S.  side  of  the 
cloister,  retains  portions  of  good  late 
Romanesque  arcading. 

Ohoroh  of  Sta.  Maria  del  Xar.^ 
This  church  is  preferred  by  some  to  the 
cathedral  in  an  architectural  light  It 
was  built  on  or  near  the  si^  formerly 
occupied  by  a  smaller  church  raised, 
A.D.  1000,  by  Bishop  Acdo,  to  keep  the 
bodyofSt£uUlia(nowin  cathedral).  It 
was  begun  in  March  1829,  and  is  one  of 
the  few  churches  buOt  entirely  at  the  ex- 
pense of  the  working-classes,  the  bai»- 


50 


BARCELONA — OHURCHES. 


taixos  or  faqnines  eren  oontributmg  to  it 
— ^the  latter  fact  being  recorded  on  the 
door  of  the  principal  fafade,  where  there 
are  sculptured  two  small  bronze  figures 
carrying  stone,  wood,  etc.  The  name 
of  the  architect  is  not  known.  In  1879, 
a  great  fire  burnt  up  the  restry,  altar, 
choir,  and  portion  of  the  roof,  but  by 
the  aid  of  Pedro  IV.  el  Ceremonioso^ 
the  church  was  repaired  and  completed, 
Nor.  9,  1888.  The  style  is  Gothic, 
with  a  few  ohnrrigneresque  alterations 
in  the  chapels,  eta  The  church  is  situ- 
ated  in  a  square  ;  the  principal  fa^e 
is  plain  but  elegant,  with  statues  on  the 
sides  and  oyer  the  door.  The  rose- 
window  is  very  fine,  and  was  repaired 
after  it  had  been  almost  destroyed  by 
an  earthquake  in  1428.  There  are  four 
entrances  in  all ;  the  portal  and  side 
looking  towards  the  market-place,  called 
Bom,  is  quaint  The  churdi  is  divided 
into  three  naves,  the  piers  and  shafts 
are  very  lofty  and  elegant,  the  arches 
sharply  pointed ;  the  high  altar,  though 
it  has  cost  100,000  ducats,  is  in  bad 
taste  and  out  of  keeping  with  the  rest ; 
it  dates  1687.  The  chair,  by  a  too  rare 
exception,  is  happily  ^Uced  behind  the 
presbytery ;  there  is  a  royal  pew  opposite 
to  the  huge  organ.  The  general  style 
of  the  church  is  very  good  and  pure,  the 
painted  glass  fine ;  there  are  five  pictures 
of  Yiladomat,  representing  scenes  from 
the  Passion,  beliind  the  idtar,  and  two 
others  in  chapel  de  San  Salvador,  Four 
pictures  by  Tramullas  (son),  in  chapel 
de  lot  Oorredores  de  Ckmibio;  a  St  Peter, 
by  Juan  Amau  of  Barcelona  (1595- 
1698),  in  chapel  of  SL  PeUr,  A  good 
statu  J  of  San  Alejo,  in  the  Traaeoro,  by 
A.  Pi^ol  of.Villafranca,  about  1643  ;  the 
Yiigin  and  Christ  Dead,  in  same  por- 
tion, is  by  Miguel  SaU  (1627-1704). 
The  indifferent  retablo  mayor  is  by  a 
sculptor  who  ornamented  the  poops  of 
the  gulleys.  The  sculpture  on  the  organ 
is  of  1560. 


j  8t^  Maria  del  Pino,  a  fine  sped- 
'  men  of  the  Gothic,  dates  1829-1418.  It 
is  also  called  N.  Sro.  do  los  Reyes.  The 
name,  del  Pi,  or  Pino,  ]>inc,  is  durive«l 
from  a  tradition,  according  to  which  an 
image  of  the  Viigin  was  found  in  a  trunk 
of  a  pine,  some  say  because  the  pine  is 
the  emblem  of  the  Catholic  faith,  ever- 
green, ever  soaring  to  heaven  ;  accord- 
ingly a  pine,  blessed  on  Palm  Sunday,  is 
every  year  placed  on  tlie  highest  point 
of  the  belfry.  It  is  also  said  that  one 
of  these  trees  was  planted  dose  to  it  in 
1768,  and  cut  down  in  1802.  The  church 
iB  of  good  proportions  and  elegant  The 
belfry-tower  is  fine,  massive,  and  very 
lofty.  The  nave  consists  of  seven  bays, 
is  54  ft  wide  in  the  clear,  and  has  an 
esstem  apse  of  seven  sides,  is  high  and 
spacious,  and  lighted  up  by  good  ogival 
windows  with  stained  gloss.  On  the 
altars  of  the  chapels  of  San  Pancrocio 
and  San  Clementc,  Jevfs  hod  a  right  to 
take  an  oath  in  ony  suit  with  a  Chris- 
tian, validity  of  wills,  etc  The  prin- 
cipal portal  is  very  rich.  The  relics  aro 
curious  and  kept  in  silver  cases,  and 
rich  reliquaries ;  amongst  them  are  two 
thorns  from  the  crown  of  Jesus,  once  at 
St  Denis  ;  a  portion  of  Christ's  gar- 
ment ;  a  bit  from  the  piRar  against 
which  He  was  scourged,  etc.  etc.  Be- 
tween the  third  and  fourth  altar,  to  the 
right,  a  tablet  on  the  wall  marks  the 
spot  where  the  Barcelonese  painter, 
Yiladomat,  is  buried — ob.  1755. 

The  ecdesiologist  may  also  visit  San 
Miguel,  which  belongs  to  the  transition 
between  the  Byzantine  and  Gothic  The 
interior  indifferent ;  a  curious  mosaic, 
white  and  blue,  on  the  pavement,  said 
by  the  learned  to  be  a  remnant  of  the 
Temple  of  Neptune  that  existed  on  this 
spot,  and  a  fine  sepulchre  of  Fran.  Coll, 
a  councillor  of  the  Catholic  kings  and 
Charles  V.— ob.  1536.  A  divine  Shep- 
herdess, by  Vilatlomat,  and  a  pointed 
cupola  also  by  him. 


BAROSLONA — PUBLIC  BUILDINGS. 


51 


Ikm  ICartires,  or  Sui  JoBto  y  8ftn 
Pastor,  tho  ewliett  ChristiEn  church  in 
Barcelona,  is  a  good  specimen  of  Gk>thic; 
one  nare  lofty  and  wide ;  good  stained 
glass ;  begun  in  1345.  A  poor  facade 
and  a  pretty  tower  on  one  side.  The 
altar  of  San  Felio  had  the  privilege  of 
serving  for  the  oath  token  by  Jews  on 
the  decalogue  placed  upon  it,  also  for 
witnesses  of  wills  made  at  sea  or  battle, 
etc,  and  of  knights  before  engaging  in 
a  '  battala  juzgada,'  not  to  use  any  but 
£ur  means,  and  swords  neither  constel- 
lated nor  enchanted,  etc  Five  bays  ; 
an  apse  of  five  sides.  The  nave  is  43  ft 
6  in.  in  width  in  the  clear,  by  some  130 
in  length.  The  vaulting  quadripartite, 
with  laige  bosses  at  the  intersection  of 
the  ribs,  on  which  are  carved  subjects 
from  the  New  Testament  A  fine  but 
undersized  High  Altar. 

In  the  Chwrek  of  Afoniesim  (14th 
century)  is  the  flag  (festum)  of  D.  Juan 
de  Austria  and  the  image  of  our  Lady 
of  Victory,  botli  carried  by  horse  at  tl|c 
battle  of  Lepanta  In<S^n<a^na(1146) 
is  the  tomb  of  Miguel  de  Boera,  who 
fought  at  Ravenna  under  the  Catholic 
king's  reign,  and  commanded  Charles 
y.*s  galleys  at  the  conquests  of  Tripoli, 
Bugia,  Oran,  etc  The  cloister  is  more 
modem  than  the  other  portions  of  tlie 
church. 

San  Pedro  de  las  Paellas  ('  of  the 
Maiden  *)  is  extra-mural,  and  on  the  site 
where  Ludovic  Pio  encamped  his  troops 
in  801,  and  built  a  former  church.  It 
was  so  caUed  because  destined  for  a 
nunnery.  The  date  of  its  building,  and 
names  of  founder  and  architect,  are  un- 
known ;  about  the  beginning  or  middle 
of  the  10th  century  is  the  most  pro- 
bable ;  the  circular  dome,  vault  of  S. 
transept  nave,  and  western  portion  of 
the  chancel,  are  the  parts  that  have  been 
the  least  altered.  The  sculpture  of  the 
capitals  is  remarkable,  and  most  Eastern 
in  character.    It  is  said  that  when  tho 


nuns  were  aware  of  the  probable  inva- 
sion of  their  convent  by  Al  Manser's 
soldiers,  who  were  recruiting  for  the 
Balearic  harems,  they  most  heroically 
disfigured  themselves,  to  avoid  this 
shame,  by  cutting  off  their  nosea.  These 
good  nuns,  however,  could  not  have 
been  in  great  earnest  as  most  of  than 
were  carried  off  to  the  harems. 

Ban  Pablo  del  Oampo. — A  most  in- 
teresting relic  of  the  Catalan  Roman- 
esque architecture  of  the  second  period. 
This  church— originally  a  Benedictine 
convent  founded  914  by  the  Count  of 
Barcelona,  Wifred  II. — was  severely 
injured  by  Al  Manso^  in  986,  but  re- 
stored by  one  Q.  Guiterdo  and  his  wife 
in  1117,  in  a  way  which  has  allowed  it 
to  retain  most  if  not  every  portion,  of 
the  primitive  structure.  Itiscruciformt 
with  three  parallel  apses,  an  ootagonid 
vault  on  pendants  over  the  crossing. 
The  nave  and  transepts  are  covered  with 
a  waggon-vault  The  W.  front  is  in- 
tcrosttng  and  purely  Byzantine,  with  tlie 
exception  of  the  circular  window,  which 
has  been  added.  Observe  the  rude  sym- 
bolical sculpture  on  and  within  the 
massive  arch — on  the  sides,  the  usual 
figures  symbolising  the  Evangelists,  and 
above  the  arch  a  hand,  with  a  cruciform 
nimbus,  giving  the  benediction.  The 
small  eUnaUr  on  S.  side  is  of  11th  cen- 
tury, very  Arabic  in  its  details,  cusp- 
ing,  and  stone  work.  Observe  a  14th 
century  doorway,  W.  of  cloister,  and 
everything,  indeed,  connected  with  this 
important  though  to  many  tourists  not 
striking^  little  church. 


The  Iionja,  or  Sxohange. — This 
building  rises  on  the  site  formerly  called 
*  dels  Cam  bis,*  where  merchants  trans- 
acted business  'al  fresco.*  There  was 
in  very  early  times  an  Exchange  in  all 
the  principal  cities  of  Spain,  such  as 
that  of  Madrid,  esUblished  1652,  Seville 


52 


BARCELONA— PUBUO  BUILDINGS. 


1685,  BfargM  and  Bilbao  1494,  but  the 
Ezohange  of  Baroelona  dates  from  about 
1882,  and  waa  established  by  Pedro  lY. 
of  Aragon.  The  former  Exchange  was 
situated  near  the  sea,  and  was  built  in 
1857.  There  was  a  chapel  added  to  the 
building  in  1452,  and  a  portico  in  1562. 
Of  this  edifice  nothing  remains  save  the 
haU  (saU),  which  was  finished  in  1888, 
and  escaped  the  general  sweeping  modi- 
fication which  began  its  avenging  work 
in  1772  under  the  Solers.  The  style  of 
the  modem  building  is  the  so-oUled 
classic^  and  of  the  Tuscan  and  Ionic 
orders.  The  principal  entrance  is  by 
the  plasa  of  the  palace.  The  facade  is 
fine  and  effectiTe,  and  the  whole  edifice 
is  of  stone,  with  marble  here  and  there. 
In  the  court  (patio)  are  statues  symboli- 
cal of  the  four  parts  of  the  world,  and 
sereral  others  in  the  Hall  of  Sessions, 
etc. — all  modem  and  indifferent,  the 
work  of  Catalonian  sculptors.  The 
Qothic  hall  is  lofty  and  of  good  propor- 
tions, about  116  ft  long  by  75  ft  wide. 
Men  of  business  meet  here  daily  frt>m 
12  till  2  P.M. 

Oaaa  do  la  Dipataoion. — Built  in 
the  beginning  of  the  15th  century — 
was  considerably  enlarged  at  different 
epochs,  which  explains  the  Tariety  of 
styles,  taste,  and  execution  exhibited. 
It  was  destined  and  senred  as  a  popular 
local  institution  for  the  Commons  of 
Catalufta,  until  abolished  by  Philip  V. 
in  1714.  The  name  of  the  architect  of 
the  first  plan  is  not  known.  Abou^ 
1598,  a  great  portion  of  the  edifice  had 
to  be  pulled  down  for  enlargement,  but 
Pedro  Blay,  the  architect  who  carried 
on  the  works,  left  fortunately  intact  the 
best  portions  of  the  primitire  building, 
such  as  the  lateral  fa^e  of  St  George, 
in  Calle  del  Obispo,  the  gallery  round 
the  court  of  the  orange-trees,  and  the 
garden.  The  Roman  or  classic  fafade, 
seen  tnm  the  Plasa  San  Jaime  is  not 
elegant,  but  heary,  clumsy,  and  out  of 


keeping.  The  work  of  Blay  extends 
ttom  this  fa^e  to  the  beginning  of  the 
grand  staircase ;  the  older  portion  be* 
gins  at  the  patio.  The  front  of  the 
chapel  of  St  Geoige  is  fine.  In  the 
centre  is  a  small  ogival  door,  between 
two  pointed  windows  separated  by  pil- 
larets ;  the  wall  between  is  worked  out 
like  a  damask  doth  in  relieyo,  and  is  of 
two  different  patterns.  This  is  crown- 
ed with  delicate  foliage,  and  a  series  of 
animals,  of  indifferent  execution  and 
out  of  place.  Oyer  them  rise  QgiTsl, 
placed  within  circular,  arches,  and  om»* 
mented  on  the  sides  with  cherubs*  heads^ 
and  surmounted  by  an  anUpttho  bolus- 
traded  with  Gothic  open-work,  tending 
in  character  to  the  plateresque.  In  the 
centre  of  a  medallion  is  rudely  sculp- 
tured St  George  and  the  Dragon ;  there 
are  four  Erangelists  at  the  angles.  The 
galleries,  howerer  much  admired  for 
their  ingenious  constraction,  were  eri- 
dently  the  contrary,  as  the  pillars,  al- 
ready bent  under  the  ill-calculate<> 
weight,  show  too  weU.  The  chapel  it- 
self is  uninteresting,  though  in  it  are 
preserved  some  curious  atUiguaUaa, 
such  as  the  frontal  of  St  Geoige,  on 
which  is  represented  his  struggle  with 
a  lion  in  defence  of  a  maiden.  St 
George  was  the  tutelar  of  the  Diputadon, 
as  tradition  would  have  it  that  he  fought 
the  Moors  in  behalf  of  the  Aragonese 
and  Catalans,  and  there  used  to  be 
jousts  and  tournaments  on  St  George's 
Day,  which  latter  is  kept  up  every  year. 
In  the  Salones  del  Tribunal  of  the  Audi- 
enda  are  some  rich  artesonados  of  the 
15th  century,  and  good,  but  worn-out 
and  effaced,  tapestries.  The  portraits 
of  the  kings  of  Spain,  beginning  with 
Ataulfus,  are  prior  to  the  IGth  century. 
There  is  also  a  statue  of  St  Francis  ol 
Boija,  dressed  as  a  knight  He  was 
Duke  of  Gandia  and  Viceroy  of  Cata- 
lu&a.  There  are  other  salones  and  halls^ 
all  modem  and  indifferent    Observe 


BABCKLONA — PRIVATS  BUILDINGS. 


63 


from  GbUe  del  Obispo  tho  olegant  Gothic 
fii^de  of  St.  Gooige. 

The  Town  Hall  (Gaats  Omaistori- 
alet)  la  Gothic,  of  1878 ;  the  patio  is 
fine,  the  principal  facade  modem ;  the 
archiTes  contain  docnments  from  1880 
concerning  municipal  lawa^  r^giatran, 
dietarioe  from  1890. 

The  Rubrica  de  Bmniqner,  where 
are  foond  noticea  of  the  principal  erenta 
reUting  to  Barcelona  from  1800.  The 
Llibre  Yert  and  the  liibre  Yermell,  con- 
taining the  royal  privil^gea^  fneroa,  etc., 
of  the  city. 

The  Palace  haa  been  moatly  repaired, 
and  thia  in  a  very  paltry  way.  The 
older  portion  waa  Uie  palace  of  the 
coonta  of  Barcelona,  and  waa  bnilt  in 
the  12th  oentory.  The  church  ia  of  a 
aomewhat  later  period.  The  painting 
outaide  imitatea  the  atyle  of  the  former 
facade  of  atone.  The  interior  ia  not 
intereating.  The  cuarto  nare  waa  built 
in  1540.  The  former  Salon  de  Emba- 
Jadorea  ia  now  tho  church  of  Sta.  Clara. 
The  chapel  of  Sta.  Agueda  waa  the  for* 
mer  royal  chapel,  and  exhibita  fine 
apedmena  of  the  early  Gothic  It  haa 
a  fine  artesonado,  ornamented  with  the 
eacuteheon  of  CataluAa. 

FriTat«  Buildings. — There  are  atone 
manaiona  of  the  14th  and  15th  centuries, 
well  worth  risiting  aa  good  specimena 
of  the  prirate  architecture  of  those  agea. 
See  eapedally  the  hoosea  of  OraUa  and 
Iktpld,  now  called  de  Aytona  y  Car- 
dona,  aa  these  are  titlea  belonging  to 
their  present  owner,  the  Duke  of  Me- 
dinaceli  The  atyle  belonga  to  different 
perioda.  The  former  house  was  built 
about  180fi  by  the  well-known  Catalo- 
nian  architect  of  that  time,  Damian  Fer- 
ment (The  old  staircase  on  one  side 
of  the  patio  and  portions  of  latter  are  of 
this  epoch.)  The  facade  is  a  first-rate 
specimen  of  the  transition  Renaissance 
from  Gothic  The  entrance-door  is 
especially  to  be  admired ;  it  is  formed  by 


two  Corinthian  columns  elegantly  orna- 
mented; the  arch  is  equally  seulptored^ 
and  on  the  Jambe  are  medalliona  re- 
preaenting  athletes  and  a  wild  beaat 
Over  the  cornice,  and  amid  flowers, 
etc,  is  the  figure  of  a  child  or  Cupid 
bearing  the  escutcheon  of  the  Aytonas 
and  (^trdonas.  On  the  pedestals  of 
the  columns  are  these  half-eflaoed 
inscriptions:  ' PublicsB rennstati,' and 
*  PriTatn  utilitati,'  that  is,  'for  pub- 
lic embellishment  and  pfirate  use.' 
The  windows  are  adorned  with  classic 
pillarets  and  medallions  of  great  men 
from  the  history  of  Rome  See  the 
patio,  part  of  Which  belongs  to  the 
14th  century,  but  the  gallery  of  the 
upper  floor  bears  traces  already  of  the 
dawn  of  the  ReviraL  Thia  patio  and 
ita  elegant  Corinthian  columna  and 
Gothic  open-worked  baluatrade  are  Yeiy 
effective  There  are  inaide  aereral  noble 
rooma  now  much  neglected,  with  fine 
artesonado  ceilings,  especially  that  of 
the  grand  saloon. 

The  Cam  de  Dutay  stands  on  the 
site  of  a  casUe  where  the  Waif  Ghamfr 
was  confined.  The  patio  is  no  longer 
that  which  Forment  built  at  the  be^- 
ning  of  the  16th  century.  There  are 
still  some  good  specimens  of  ornament 
of  the  ReriraL  Ca$a  CardcntUf  close 
to  B^jada  de  San  Miguel,  has  also  a 
fine  patio^  good  artesonados,  a  noUe 
stairoMS,  and  windows  much  oma- 
roented. 

Antiquities. — ^These  are  most  seen 
in  museums  and  prirate  galleries.  The 
older  portion  of  the  city  lay  about  the 
present  cathedral  The  line  of  fortifica- 
tions followed  this  course— Calls  de  la 
Tapineria,  Escahis  de  la  Sen,  Plan 
Nuera ;  here  there  was  a  gate  to  N.  W. 
flanked  by  towers,  then  behind  la  PslK 
Calle  des  Banys,  el  Call,  to  the  palace. 
Plaza  de  Arrieros,  and  continuing  by 
the  upper  part  of  the  hills  that  sre 
here,  went  by  Calle  de  Bases  and  Saa 


54 


BAROELONA — PROMENADES. 


Justo  to  join  and  meet .  the  other 
extremity  of  the  circuit  at  the  Arco  de 
la  Bigada  de  la  CorceL  In  a  honae 
No.  5  Calle  de  Paraya,  behind  the 
apee  of  the  cathedral,  there  are  tome 
Roman  columna  that  belonged  (say  the 
learned)  to  a  temple.  They  are  of  good 
proportions,  for  the  basement  alone 
measurea  10  ft  8  in.  1  line  Spanish. 
There  are  magnificent  clooce,  a  work 
ascribed  to  the  Scipioa,  which  run  un- 
der the  Rambla  (from  Rami  and  Ram- 
bula,  rivuia),  and  through  which  a  man 
on  horseback  can  easily  pasa.  Of  Arab 
architecture  there  are  no  monuments, 
and  the  five  Moorish  baths  in  Calle 
del  Banys  Frets  have  long  disappeared. 
The  Roman  amphitheatre  was  close  to 
Galle  Fernando,  of  which  the  vomitoria 
looked  on  tlte  present  Calle  Boqueria. 
In  the  Call  (Latin^  eallis,  whence  ealU, 
Spanish  for  street,  and  also  avenue  and 
garden-walk),  and  thereabouts  was  Uie 
Qhetto,  or  quarter  of  the  Jews,  who  had 
several  synagogues,  lai^  depdts,  and  a 
great  trade  with  the  £ast  The  Bom, 
where  tournaments  took  place,  and  the 
other  markets,  will  interest  the  artist 
The  most  important  hospitals,  etc. 
aro— Xa  Cariiad,  a  well -managed  poor- 
house  ;  Misarieordia,  for  poor  girls,  who 
are  brought  up  to  be  servants  or  work- 
women ;  SUl  Orwt,  for  convalescents, 
etc 

Plaoes  of  Publio  Beaort. — Pro- 
menades.— The  Rambla  is  much  fre- 
quented in  the  evening.  In  the  summer, 
the  Muralla  del  Mar  is  a  very  cool  walk  ; 
the  Paseo  de  Oracia  is  the  Hyde  Park 
and  Rotten  Row  of  Barcelona,  hours 
from  2  to  5  P.  X.  The  Paseo  del  Cemen- 
terio,  notwithstanding  its  name  and 
object,  is  much  fVequented  by  the 
lower  classes  on  holidaya.  Besides,  there 
is  the  Jardin  Pnblico,  Jardin  del  Oene- 
nd  (in  Paseo  de  Oracia),  and  the  two 
Vauzhallian  gardensi  Tivoli  and  Cam- 
pot  Eliseoa. 


Theatres. — The   Licoo,   or  Opera- 
house,  has  been  rebuilt  on  the  site, 
and  we  believe  the  same  propcntions 
as  the  former,  which  was  burnt  down. 
It  is  on  the  model  of  La  Scala  of  Milan, 
but  lai^ger  than  either  it  or  the  San 
Carlo  of  Naples,   and    accommodates 
upwards  of  4000  spectators  at  their 
ease;  the  boxes  are  large,  and  well 
adapted  to  show  off  dresses  :  first-rate 
Italian  opera  in  winter.     Ladies  gener- 
ally attend  with  bonnets  on  the  lower 
tiers  ;  lialf-dress  is  usual.     Gentlemen 
can  dress  ad  HbUum,     The  principal 
boxes,  being  private  property,  can  sel- 
dom or  never  be  obtained.     Price  of  a 
box,  llOr.  ;  a  stall,  18r.     Teatro  Prin- 
cipal.     A    pretty    theatre ;    Spanish 
comedy,  drama  and  dancing;  opposite 
to    Hotel    de    las    Cuatro    Naciones. 
Odeon,  second-rate  ;  tlie  performers  are 
gcnemlly  amateurs  ;  dramas,  etc.   Circo 
BareeUmis,    concerts   and   soir6es   de 
magie,   etc.     Bull-Jighlt, — These   are 
very  inferior  here  to  those  in  Anda- 
lusia, Madrid,  eta,  and  Catalans  are 
no  lovers  of  tauronuchia.    The  Plasa 
was  built  in  1833,  on  the  plan  of  that 
at  Madrid  ;  it  holds  10,000  spectators. 
The  Carnival  is  very  gay.     The  local 
great   holidays   are    Feb.    12th,    Sta. 
Eulalia,  tutelar  of  the  city  (go  to  Sar- 
ria,  etc) ;  Jan.  17,  San  Antonio,  horse- 
races ;  April  23,  San  Jorge  (the  fSte 
take  places  in  gardens,  courts,  chapel 
of  tlie  Audiencia) ;  on  Easter  Monday, 
at  Coll  and  Oracia,  great  merriment, 
fain,  booths,  etc     C/t<^. —Tliere  is  a 
very  good  Casino,  comfortably  fitted 
up^  foreign  papers  and  reviews  taken 
in ;  presentation  by  a  member  neces- 
sary; several  public  reading-rooms,  but 
no  English  papers. 

Directory. — ApoUuearie$. — Borrell, 
Calle  Conde  del  Asalto.  Bankert, — 
Oirona  hermanos,  Clav^  and  Co.,  cor- 
respondents of  London  and  Westmin* 
ster ;  Compte  and  Co. ,  agents  of  Messrs. 


BAROSLONA. 


55 


Uott«  and  Ca  AiMiL—At  Hotel  de 
Oriente  and  Odle  del  Arco  del  Teatro, 
Ka  7,  from  8r.  to  lOr.,  linen  ineloded, 
good.  BopkmiUr» — Bonnehanit,  French, 
S2  BamUa  de  Oapaohiiioe ;  Sala,  Oalle 
de  la  Union,  S.  Ck^^U, — Coffee-boaaea 
at  Barcelona  are  laige  eatabUahmenta, 
fitted  np  with  great  loxuiy  ;  and  icee, 
agrax,  borchata,  are  very  well  prepared. 
Tbe  bandaomeat  and  moat  frequented 
are  Oaf(&  de  laa  Siete  Pnertaa  and  El 
Gran  Gafii  Waiters  are  called  hy  dap- 
ping one*8  bands,  and  not  bj  striking 
tbe  glass,  as  in  Paris.  There  are  some 
good  restanrants,  where  one  can  dine 
d  la  earU  and  ao  mnch  a  head,  French 
cooking ;  the  best  is  Restanrant  de 
Paria  87,  Rambla  de  Oapuchinos. 
Cfigan, — The  best  genoine  Harannah 
cigars  are  to  be  had  at  Sr.  Bentoaa's, 
Cidle  Ancha,  Casa  Ark  They  are  dear, 
but  excellent.  BUmda  and  Zae$, — 
The  Barcelona  produce  is  considered 
rery  lasting  and  dieap,  though  not 
fine—Fitcr,  1  PUza  Real  and  Mar- 
garit  Silks.  ^Fine  Spanish  produce, 
manufactured  in  Catalonia  and  Valencia, 
etc,  jtnd  foreign — Escuder,  Calle  Fer- 
nando. Olaver, — Yaret,  Calle  Fer- 
nando, 27. 

OontuU^^H.  B,  M:$  ContuIaU,  Plan 
Real,  8.  UnUed  StaUt,  8  Dormitorio 
de  San  Francisco.  Dodon, — English 
physician,  Mr.  Roberts,  F.R.aaE., 
Calle  Cristina,  No.  8. 

Church  of  England. — DiTine  senrice 
erery  Sunday  morning  at  11  o*dock  at 
the  British  Consulate. 

Mbney-chani^ers. — Janini,  87  Rambla 
Capuchinos.  N.B. — French  gold  and 
sUrer  current  Oiro  MiUuo. — A  bank- 
ing company ;  money  from  the  smallest 
possible  sums  remitted  all  orer  Spain 
for  2  per  cent  premium,  Calle  Donna 
San  Francisco,  open  from  9  till  4. 
fitrfimir. — Roriralta,  6  Calle  Fernanda 
Win€9. — The  Catalonian  winea  are 
strong;  not  very  delicate,  but  rich  and 


juicy.  Beni-Carl<S  is  sent  to  France^ 
where  it  is  mixed  with  reiy  light  Bor» 
deanx.  This  red  wine  ii  susceptible 
(^  amelioration.  Malrasia  de  Si^e^ 
Taya,  Atella,  CuUera,  Priorato,  ought 
to  be  tasted.  Manila  shawls  and  gene- 
ral china  warehouse,  fSuis^  i^oiy,  etc, 
Quer,  Calle  Boters,  6. 

Picture  OaUeru*,  ColUdumt,  Mu' 
MSMnt. — ^The  Catalan  is  no  oonnoiaseur 
of  painting,  and  the  Museo  ii  unim- 
portant Of  Viladomat  there  are 
some  good  specimens,  espedally  Sta. 
Clara,  La  Stigmata,  etc  There  are 
many  librariea,  private  and  public,  rich 
in  MSS.  and  local  history.  Archiw 
04nL  di  la  Corona  di  Aragon. — It  is 
one  of  the  oldest,  best-arranged,  and 
most  important  arohiTes  in  Europe  It 
was  established  by  Pedro  IV.  dd  Pun- 
yalet.  The  admirable  classification  ia 
due  to  the  late  keeper  of  the  archires. 
The  documents  date  from  the  0th 
century.  This  establishment  is  pub- 
lishing a  collection  of  political  and  ad- 
ministratiye  documents  of  yalae,  espe- 
cially for  the  history  of  the  kingdoms 
of  Valencia,  CataluAa,  Aragon,  Migorca, 
and  their  dependent  portions  in  southern 
France,  Italy,  etc     Free  admittance. 

Lihrairy  t^  San  JiMm.— 40,000  vols., 
which  were  removed  here  from  the  sup- 
pressed convents,  and  many  MSS.  of 
the  18th,  14th,  and  15th  centuriea. 
Bpiaeopal  Zi&mry.— 16,000  vols ,  2000 
MBS.  of  Spaniah  romance,  coins,  sped- 
mens  of  minerals  and  natural  history. 
Mu»eo  Salvador, — A  magnificent  and 
most  complete  collection  of  the  natural 
history,  geology,  minerals,  and  anti- 
quitiea  of  Catalufta  ;  a  fine  library  and 
MSS.  prindpally  rdating  to  natural 
history,  medicine,  and  travels,  and  a 
very  fine  and  rich  herbary,  which  was 
formed  by  MM.  Salvador,  Toumefort, 
A.  and  B.  Jussieu,  etc  ;  admittance  on 
presenting  card,  Calle  Ancha,  68. 
CoUoeium  iff  Antiquum  of  Se&or 


56 


BARCELONA — SUBURBS. 


Corttda,  Calle  Riera  de  San  Juan,  88. 
Zooiogieal  CcUege  of  Selkor  Mercader  do 
BeUoch,  CallA  Llado,  11.  PUtwr*  Col- 
UeHcn  of  8.  Pascoal,  19  Calle  JneU 
(old  pictnrea,  teyeral  of  yalue) ;  ditto 
of  Selkor  Campaner,  Calle  Candida,  16  ; 
ditto,  of  SetLor  Boah  and  Pazad,  Calle 
Ripoll,22. 

PMic  InBtrudion.—lt  it  rerywell 
organised  here,  and  education  is  ^eiy 
general  and  popular.  There  are  86 
schools  of  primary  instmctidn ;  and 
seYeral  higher  schools,  mostly  founded 
and  supported  by  the  town,  Chamber 
of  Commerce,  eta  We  shall  mention 
the  laiger  schools  :  Esoolapios,  Colegio 
Barcelona  Seminario  Condliar;  be- 
sides Factdty  of  Medicine,  College  of 
Surgeons,  etc 

Oab  Fare$.^Thx9t  stands,  Flasa  del 
Teatro ;  ditto^  de  la  Constitudon ;  ditto, 
de  Palado.  Caliches  comfortable ; 
cabbies  extortionate.  There  are  sereral 
stands. 


Rcab 

I 


'One  hofte,  dswn  to  I  P.M. 

r^coanrnJ      »»        »»      •  P- M.  to  midnight 

**  v«i—  -^  ^^  hone*,  dawn  to  8  r.M.     .    6 

n      „       I  F.M.  to  midnight  9 

One  hone,  dawn  to  I  f.m.      .    8 

TK«  kAMr  ./     »»      »»     8  F.M.  to  midnight    10 

*"""""  "Two  horeet,  dawn  to  8  F.M.     .  «o 

„       8  r.M.  to  midnight  15 
Every  extra  |  hr.  is  paid  proportionately. 

/VvOT  mmy^mH  tf  tkt  /mm*  ta  BarctUtutm  #r 

Renb 
One  hone,  dawn  to  8  r.M.   ....    6 

,,      „     8  r.M.  to  midnight  .       .    9 

Two  bones,  dawn  to  8  r.M.         ...    9 

„      „      8  r.M.  to  midnight    .  .it 

A  drim'U  TivUi,  Pmff  d»  Grmcim,  ttc. 

Reals 

One  hone,  dawn  to  8  p.m 8 

^      „     8  P.M.  to  midnight  .  •  so 

Two  hones,  dawn  to  8  r.M.  .16 

„      M       1  ^'^  ^  midnight    .  .so 

From  the  dieatre,  1  horse,  8r.,  9  horses,  isr. 

F1rst>nue  hired  carriages,  with  footman,  open 
or  dosed,  6or.  to  soor.  a-day,  by  the  wcdc, 
month,  or  year. 

SUBUBBH.— Visit  the  barrio  or  quar- 


tier  called  BareeloiMto^  S.E.  of  city,  and 
b\iilt  in  the  banning  of  this  century. 
It  is  on  a  perfectly  regular  plan,  the 
straight  line  being  the  rule,  composed 
of  houses  of  the  same  size  and  shape, 
containing  a  population  of  upwards  of 
12,000,  mostly  uilors  and  lower  classes. 
Qriuiii,  N.W.  of  city,  at  the  foot  of 
the  hill  San  Pedro  Martir,  close  to 
the  most  fashionable  promenade,  a 
picturesque  little  Tillage,  with  inns, 
restaurants,  tea-gardens,  eta  Sarriik 
is  another  favourite  resort  of  the 
Barcelonese  on  holidays  and  summer 
eveningB.  There  are  seyeral  pretty 
Tillas,  called  in  Catalufia  Unrt^  scat- 
tered about  the  country  with  charming 
gardens  and  ristas.  See  especially  £1 
Laberinto  and  the  Torre  of  Sr.  An- 
glada,  near  Harta.  Rail  to  Sarrii, 
through  Qracia,  17,  12,  8  auntoi^  in  a 
few  minutes. 

Bxcurti»tu.—lQ  baths  of  Mootbuy,  of  La- 
puda,  etc  To  M^tutrrai. — ^An  excursion  to 
this  celebrated  monastery,  and  picturesque 
hills  around  it,  ou^t  not  to  be  omitted.  Con- 
veyances :—isc,  by  rail  from  Barcelona  to 
Martorell,  i  hr.  17^  m.,  iir.  and  8r.  At  Mar- 
torell  take  a  carriage  to  CoUbatd,  s  hrs. ;  from 
CoUbatd  (an  inn,  Posada  Nueva  de  las  Oievas) 
to  Monscrrat,  riding  (donkeys  and  horsesX 
N.B. — If  carriages  be  preferred  to  riding, 
there  are  carriages  to  Monserrat,  but  this  is 
the  kmgest  way.  sd  mode,  Barcelona  to 
Monistrol  by  raU,  31^  m. ;  lares,  itt  cL.  aor. 
Soc- ;  ad  cL,  ijr.  ssc :  time,  s  hrs.  from 
statkm  of  Monistrol  to  the  village,  \  hr. :  Moni- 
strol to  Monserrat,  riding,  s  hrs.  Fares  to 
ascend  Monserrat  :~A  guide  and  donkey,  8r. 
for  a  man,  lor.  if  a  lady  riding ;  a  guide  to 
show  the  grottoes,  i4r.,  a  torch,  lor. ;  for  Ben- 
gal fire,  used  to  illuminate  the  grottoes,  etc., 
i6r. ;  half*an-hour  requisite  to  reach  the  grot- 
toes. A  whole  day  is  hidispensable  to  see  the 
principal  sights,  hot  two  wouki  fatigue  less ; 
and  the  inn  at  CoUbatd  is  decent,  and  its  host, 
Pedro  Bacarissi,  who  keeps  the  keys  of  the 
grottoes,  is  dvil. 

/>««rr//<*m.— Those  who  are  desiroos  of 
more  details  can  consult  the  books  written 
on  the  subject  (see  /«/yv.)  Monserrat,  Mobs 
Scrratns,  or  the  Jagged  Mountain,  is  so  called 
from  its  form ;  it  is  about  8  leagues  in  circum- 
ference, and  the  pinnacles  range  soom  j8oe 


BABdLOHA — IXOUItSION& 


57 


ft.  higk  It  b  OM  of  the  wMt  cdtbntwl 
bS|Maa,aad  thm  object  of  yearly  pU- 
wMdi  OBce  Munbcred  upwenn  of 
60^000  pfltriiw,  bat  are  gradneUy  thiaaiag  b 
IwupoitioM  M.troe  piety  it  hecniing  nore 
eoUfbiened.  Acoordiiif  to  the  legend,  Biihop 
hearing  a  report  »pread  by  loine 
that  mysterious  lights  were  seea« 
aadaniic  heard,  both  ooaung  from  the  Jagged 
Mooataia,  risited  it  hi  Mo  to  fiod  out  the 
truth.  A  small  statue  of  the  Vhgia  was  dis- 
covered in  a  grotto.  Thto  inmge  (the  one  now 
here)  is  said  to  be  the  work  of  St  Luke,  and 
to  have  been  brought  to  Spain  by  St.  Pster. 
It  WM  concealed  here  by  the  Bishop  of 
Barcelona  when  the  Arabs  lavadad  CafahiBa 
As  it  was  bong  carried  toManresa  by  the 
bishop,  he  soon  fancied  he  discovered  strong 
and  weighty  proof  that  it  was  the  statne's  par- 
ticular wish  not  to  travel  farther.  An  altar  was 
then  raised,  a  chapel  built,  and  an  anchorite 
pUced  to  watdi  over  it  Now  the  devil  came 
fm  /rrsmMT  to  inhabit  a  grotto  doee  by,  with 
the  determination  to  lead  astray  the  pious  man. 
Wilfred,  then  Count  of  Barcelona,  had  a  beau- 
tiful daughter,  Riquilda,  who,  having  become 
possemed  by  the  evil  spirit,  dedared  that  the 
latter  would  not  leave  her  until  Juan  Guarin, 
the  godly  anchorite,  gave  him  leave  to  do  so. 
The  count  then  took  her  to  the  hermit,  and 
left  her  to  hb  care.    Guarin  was  perversely 

the  body.  Guarin,  all  repentance, 
parted  company  with  Us  wicked  friend,  and 
led  to  lUmie.  The  Pope  gave  him  abedu- 
tien,  but  ordered  him  to  return  to  M onserrat, 
never  to  look  up  to  heaven,  but  that  he  should 
walk  and  lead  like  the  beasts  and  never  utter 
a  word.  Heaven  stems  to  have  oonnrmcd  the 
Pbpefs  verdict,  lor  shortly  after  he  was  turned 
faMo  a  wild  beast  The  huntsmen  of  Count 
Wilfred  captured  the  stnmge  nr^^wf,  and  took 
him  10  the  palace,  whcrs  he  bccsam  a  great 
Imb.  But  not  lone  after,  at  a  bamraet  eivcn 
by  the  ooHnC,  tke  erild  beaat  being  mtroduced 
Car  the  gaae  of  the  guests,  a  child  cried  out  to 
it, 'Arise.  Jmb  Guark :  thy  aim  art  pardoned 
The  beaat  then  brrsme  once  BMire  the 
Monaerrsft  anckonte,  was  paroooed  by 
the  cows,  and  a  search  being  amde  by  the 
Cacher  and  Gwarin,  led  to  the  discovery  of  fair 
Riquilds,  who,  nocvichstaadtng  kariag  had  her 
taroet  ort  and  being  buried  lor  e*gbl  yean  in 
a  deep  hole,  reappeared  al>v«,  and  with  only 
a  ted  rim  en  her  throat,  amre  Hke  a  aUk  thread 

VMS.     Coimc  WiJfrcd  fbnaded  a  aoraKry.  of 

the  \fa6f  abbcm,  amd 
or  ma^pr  dCww.  The 
by  the  holy  mm^  at- 


tracted thousands  of  pilgrinu^  and  the  mmi 
were  removed  and  nMuks  pbeed  la  their  alead. 
It  has  been  ever  since  a  Aivouriie  shrine 
with  kings,  popes,  great  captains,  eie..  and 
was  especially  patronised  during  the  isth  and 
16th  centtvies.  The  r#j»fv  of  the  Virgin  was 
truly  magnUkent,  and  amounted  to  upwards  of 
aoo,ooo  ducats.  11m  ostensorium  given  by 
PhUibert  of  Savoy  contained  upwards  of  1000 
diamonds,  100  pearls,  too  sapphires,  opals, 
etc  One  of  hn  numberlem  crowns  was  en- 
riched with  S500  emeralds.  Don  Juan  of 
Austria  placed  around  it  the  flags  and  bannere 
he  had  captured  at  Lepanto  i  and  wh«i  Philip 
V.  visited  the  chapel  there  were  1 10  precious 
lamps  of  massive  silver  before  the  altar.  Most 
of  the  riches  were  carried  away  when  Suchet's 
troops  kept  garrison  at  the  monastery  for  three 
months.  Portions  of  the  buildings  were  pulled 
down,  the  library  burnt,  and  the  monks  hanged 
or  hunted  out  of  their  celk  In  ila7,  Ferdi- 
nand VII.  granted  jCs^^oo  for  the  reconstruc- 
tion of  the  edifices :  and  the  present  queen,  on 
her  visit  In  ils7,  made  the  Virgin  several 
presents  and  left  OMney.  The  former  church 
and  monastery  no  longer  eaist ;  the  only 
vestige  b  a  Bytantine  portal  and  a  small  por- 
tion of  the  Gothic  cloisters  of  147^  Thepresent 
convent  is  well  situated ;  the  cluaier  of  buildings, 
some  of  them  eight  storeys  high,  Is  placed  oa  a 
terrace  overlooking  a  gorge,  where  rocks  are 
jumbled  together  in  Sslvator  Rosa  style,  with 
plains  at  the  end  coloured  wiih  a  grejriUi 
yellow,  and  dark  foretu  scattered  In  the  dis- 
tance. At  the  back  there  are  lofty  and  preci- 
pitous masMu  of  conical  rocka  rising  to  a  great 
height  The  Uobrexst  winds  through  the 
pfadn  below,  and  the  background  of  this  grand 
tableau  b  formed  by  the  dtstant  Pyrenees, 
blending  with  the  ckwds.  There  b  llitb  to 
see  here  save  the  scenery,  which  Is  wild  and 
grand.  The  hermiugct,  once  very  numermie, 
and  placed  la  ahnoil  InacceMible  and  retired, 
solitary,  lofty  spots,  are  no  longer  what  ih«y 
were  :  aioet  have  dt«appearrd,  and  the  rest  are 
cruroUing  Cast  Vbii  tlie  rock-walUd  garden  ; 
the  dnirch,  where  there  b  a  gnod  retsMo, 
the  work  of  Earahen  Jordan,  mad  a  reia,  a 
■aaatcrptece  of  Cristobal  de  SahimuM-a,  i^t*. 
The  oeiebraled  iaaaga  b  of  infertor  eseruttoo, 
made  of  dark  wood.  The  C  awwe,  or  (jtviM  d« 
la  Eaperanra,  b  a  very  Urge  trv^ui,  wnk  a 
stalactite- roofed  gre<t/>  o^jfmmiitf  calbd  Kl 
Camarin.  1U»  Umv  l»»4*  ut  7 *tmjlfr  ^  U* 
Sil/id£t  fBoMd'^tr  of  the  frytfAe,.  At  ike 
bottom  of  Ike  larger  grotio  b  Um  /*#«#  fw#ltj 
4Ut  DUiU,  ao  yards  d^^fp.  I>««r#^  \ma  N 
and  citMS  several  gro«to«^  aXi  cvrvMis,  and 
rendered  elective  by  the  a«alariii«  roof  and  the 

Tht 


58 


BASQUE  PROVINCES. 


largest  it  caOcd  GaUria  de  Smm  BmrUlem/. 
To  the  right  of  it  is  another,  CUmstr^  dt  Im 
Mm^ti^  where  the  stalaciifes  with  the  stalag- 
niites  have,  by  blending,  formed  slender  ptllara. 
Prom  it  proceed  to  the  Grutm  dt  lot  Eitalac- 
tiimt.  The  spectacle  presented  here  by  the 
thousand  different  fantastical  forms  assumed 
by  the  crystallisation  and  incrustations  is 
greatly  enhanced  by  the  light  of  the  torches 
and  Bengal  fire  generally  lighted  up  for  the 
greater  effect  Hence  to  Gruia  del  EU/omU, 
so  called  from  the  seeming  form  of  that  animal 
placed  in  the  centre,  and  formed  by  an  im- 
posing  mass.  Observe  in  it  besides  a  strikingly 
regular  ogival  arch,  naturally  formed.  Here 
ladies  may  Kmit  their  excursion  to  this  curious 
underground  palace.  Those  wk^m  mttkimf^ 
dmmm/s—thMt  is,  neither  mud  nor  dampness— 
we  advise  to  proceed  to  S0ca  dfi  Jm/Urtit, 
SiS  metres  deep ;  to  Gruta  de  la  Damn  Blanca, 
where  the  lady  m  wkiU  is  a  Urge  white  rock, 
mysteriously  wrought  by  nature.  Thence, 
after  crossing  several  other  curious  halls  full  of 
stalactites,  the  Saltm  dtl  Absidt  Gptico  is 
attained,  which  is  the  lasL  The  temperature 
varies  •  good  deal,  and  we  advise  tourists 
setting  out  on  the  complete  /^rand  tour 
(which  takes  6  hrs. )  of  thb  subterraneous  coun- 
try to  provide  themselves  with  wrap|icnt,  u«, 
whila  it  is  so  degrees  centigrade  in  tliu  la&i- 
naroed  grotto,  it  is  13  in  that  of  Las  Eitalacti- 
tat,  and  only  9  in  the  Vett^uU.  The  church 
is  mostly  modernised.  Visit  the  Camarin^  or 
wardrobe,  of  the  Virgin,  where  her  costly  and 
beautifully  embroidered  mantot  are  carefully 
kept :  and  the  devotees  (devotos  de  la  Virgen) 
may  kiu  her  statue's  hand.  The  mountain 
isJ*CB^  <w  separated  into  two  portions  or 
hills,  forming  thus  the  small  valley,  where  the 
winter  torrenu  have  formed  a  ravine,  which 
serves  as  a  line  of  demarcation  between  the 


bidiopricsof  Vichaad  Barcefcma.  Thisviolcnt 
rent  or  separation  was  produced,  say  religious 
legends,  at  the  moment  of  the  crucifixion. 
Geology  explains  it  by  the  eruption  of  a  vol- 
cano, and  the  waters  which  filled  the  siwnmirs 
forming  an  fanrnenie  basin  or  lake. 

The  13  hermitages  formed  what  is  called  a 
via  emeu  and  $cala  aelit  which  began  at  the 
hermitage  of  Santiago  and  ended  at  that  of  St. 
Teronima  The  views  from  the  former  are 
extensive.  The  mountain  itself,  whidi  is  after 
all  the  /mm  here,  is  formed  by  several  huge 
clustering  conical  hills,  drnxigh  which  all  access 
isdiflScult.  These  'aiguilles' consist  of  roiuid 
calcareous  stones,  of  various  colours,  and 
hewn,  so  to  speak,  by  a  sort  of  natural  bitumen 
mixed  with  sand.  Continued  rains  gradually 
destroy  by  decomposition  this  glutinous  fossil 
pitch;  they  thus  render  these  peaks  more 
pointed,  carry  away  the  soil  and  sand,  and 
plough  the  slopes  of  the  mountain  in  all  direc- 
tions, filtering  through  the  mass  ani  producing 
tbew  stalactites  which  we  see  in  the  grottoes  of 
Collbatd.  11>e  detritus  accumubted  at  the 
base  of  the  mountain  has  at  last  become  an 
excellent  vegetable  soil,  which  produces  fine 
wheat  and  vines  :  and  though  the  summits  are 
rugged,  denuded,  nnd  Klcrile,  the  »k*pcs,  within 
an  extent  of  as  kil.  circumrercnce,  arc  clothed 
with  vegetation,  and  present  a  Kries  of  soo 
varieties  of  plants.  Tlie  mountain  stands 
isolated.  Its  spurs  extend  N.W.,  and  are  of 
great  height  also,  and  the  whole  mass  forms 
part  of  the  Pyrenean  range.  The  greatest 
height  is  about  3390  ft  above  the  sea,  and  8 
leagues  in  circumference.  The  mountain  is 
rent  the  third  part  of  its  whole  height,  forming 
thus  two  hills  or  summits  separated  by  a  nar- 
row valley,  where  the  rains  have  dug  a  small 
ravine  W.  to  E. 


THE  BASQUE  PROVINCES. 


GbOOBAPHIOAL  ADMIKIflTEATiyB  DI- 
VISIONS.— These  three  prorinces,  Alavs, 
Yizosys,  Gaipiizcos  (capitals,  Vitoria, 
Bilbao,  San  SebastiaD)  are  commonly 
called  'Las  Prorincias,'  to  which  Yas- 
congadas  is  often  added;  thej  consti- 
tuted the  ancient  Cantabria  (from  Kent- 
Aber,  oomer  of  the  water),  the  inhabit- 
ants of  which  were  nerer  expelled 
from  their  natiye  soil,  and  proved  as 
indomitable  as  the  Asturii  and  all 
moontaineers  generally  are.  Thelai^^est 


of  the  tliree  is  Biscay,  which  measures 
some  81 4  m.  from  N.  to  S.,  and  89  m. 
K  to  W.,  with  a  seaboard  of  52}  m.  i*i 
extent  The  smallest,  that  of  Gnipuz- 
00a,  contains  only  52  square  leagues, 
and  Alaya  116  square  leagues.  The 
population  is  :— Vixcaya,  168,705  ; 
Alava,  97,934  ;  Guipuzcoa,  162,547  ; 
total,  429,186  (1860).  The  principal 
rivers  are : — the  Bidnssoa,  which  rises 
on  the  S.W.  slopes  of  the  Pico  de  Les- 
sets,  in  the  range  of  the  Alduides,  some 


BASQUS  PB0VIN0B8. 


69 


S336  ft  aboY6  the  lerel  of  tbo  sea ;  the 
Ibaizabal,  Amtia,  Ordufka,  and  Cadag- 
na,  in  Bisca j,  which  uniting  their  waters 
form  the  Neirion  that  crowea  Bilhao 
and  empties  itself  into  the  AUantio. 
The  principal  towns,  besides  the  capitals 
already  mentioned,  are :  Tolosa,  Iron, 
and  Veigara.  The  principal  ports  those 
of  Lequeitio,  Portngalete,  and  Laredo. 
The  three  provinces  are  placed  under 
the  military  jurisdtcton  of  a  Capitania- 
General  de  las  Provincias  Yascongadas 
and  Nararre,  whose  residence  is  at 
Pamplona.  There  is  a  gobemador  for 
each,  and  judicially  and  ecclesiastically 
they  depend  on  the  audienda  of  Burgos 
and  the  dioceses  of  Santander  and  Cida- 
horra. 

History. — ^The  Basques  sre  said  to 
be  the  descendants  of  the  earliest  in- 
habitants of  the  Peninsula,  and  to  this 
day  they  have  preserved  intact  the 
character,  customs,  and  language,  of 
their  forefathers.  With  all  justice  they 
can  lay  claim  to  the  title  of  the  oldest 
race  in  Spain.  In  their  tongue  they 
call  their  language  Eskara,  and  them- 
selves Escualdunac,  which  meansaj^nm^^ 
hand.  From  the  first  they  constituted 
small  republics,  ruled  by  chiefs  elected 
among  themselves,  and  according  to 
especial  codes  or  fueros,  which  breathed 
fierce  independence,  parochial  exclusive- 
ness,  and  stem  but  patriarchal  regula- 
tions. This  national  code  has  been 
respected  at  all  times,  and  by  every 
ruler,  forming  an  imperium  in  imperio, 
with  its  especial  Uouse  of  Commons, 
Diputacion  Provincial,  tarifia,  tolls, 
police,  and  army.  There  is  now  some 
talk  of  abolishing  these  fueros,  and  the 
moment  seems  to  have  come  when  they 
may  be  suppressed  without  causing  any 
real  and  lasting  disturbance.  The 
Basques  have  played  no  important  part 
in  the  annals  of  Spain.  In  1106  those 
on  the  French  side  purchased  the  La- 
board  for  3306  gold  florins^  and  were 


incorporated  with  France  in  1461,  under 
Charles  VIl.,  but  continued  to  eigoy 
certain  exemptions  from  taxes,  enlist- 
ment in  the  army,  etc  In  1830  and 
1383,  tlie  Spanish  Basque  Provinces 
submitted  to  the  authority  of  Alfonso 
XI.  of  Castile,  and  were  annexed  to 
CastUe  by  Pedro  the  Cruel,  who  put  to 
death  Juan  of  Aragon,  husband  of  the 
heiress  to  the  lordship  {$eiU}rio)  which 
these  provinces  constituted. 

Chaeactkb,  Lakouaob,  and  Drbss. 
— ^The  Fcueueiues  are  a  most  noble, 
high-minded,  and  interesting  race ;  a 
haughty,  stem,  independent  people, 
noted  for  trathfulness  and  honesty,  and 
unbounded  hospitality.  They  are  ad- 
dicted to  agriculture  and  smith-work, 
make  excellent  sailors,  and  have  be- 
come most  remarkable  discoverers.  £1- 
cano,  who  commanded  one  of  Magel- 
lan's ships ;  Lcgazpia,  who  made  the 
conquest  of  the  Philippine  Islands,  and 
founded  the  first  Spanish  town  at  Zebu, 
Luaira,  etc ;  and  the  discovery  of 
Greenland,  Canada,  Newfoundland,  etc, 
have  been  ascribed  to  Basques.  They 
were  certainly  the  earliest  whale-fisher- 
men on  record,  and  to  this  day  man  the 
French  and  Spanish  whalers  that  leave 
Bayonne,  Bordeaux,  and  the  Spanish 
northem  ports.  They  are  good  sold  iers, 
especially  when  under  the  immediate 
and  exclusive  orders  of  a  countryman 
{pauano)f  and  the  terdous  Yascongados 
were  always  held  in  great  repute. 
Though  deficient  in  works  of  imagina- 
tion, taste,  and  art,  they  are  excellent 
mathematicians,  learned  scholars,  and 
stout  reasoners.  Physically,  they  are 
a  very  superior  race,  tall,  muscular, 
well-proportioned,  wiry,  and  swift- 
footed.  Fair  hair  and  blue  eyes  are 
frequent — a  fact  explained  by  the  long 
and  constant  intercourse  and  partial 
amalgamation  with  the  Northmen  dur- 
ing Uie  9th  century,  and  their  Celtic 
origin.   The  women  are  very  handioms^ 


60 


BASQUK  FROVmOBS. 


fairHSomplezioned,  and  with  magnificenl 
long  hair,  worn  in  trmaas  lianging  oTer 
th«   back.      They  are   reaerred   and 
han^tj  before  strangera.   Their  claima 
to  be  the  deacendants  of  Noah  and 
Tabal,  the  moat  noble  race  in  the  world, 
and  of  pore  and  earliest  nobility,  are 
prondnent  featorea  in  their  chancter. 
Erery  Yaaoongado  is  bom  a  eabattero  a 
goieoa,  and  prond  aimorialB  are  Tery 
frequently  aeen  aeolptored  in  stone  OTer 
a  humble  cottage  or  a  dilapidate  hoYcL 
Their  cnatoms,  gamea,  etc,  are  all  in- 
teresting and  crrinoe  antiquity.     For 
instance,  com  and  bread  are  offered  to 
the  dead  on  the  anniTcrsaiy  day  of  their 
death.     At  ^isondo,  San  Sebastian, 
etc. ,  we  hare  often  seen  some  poor  fisher- 
man'a  daughter,  in  a  church,  praying 
for  a  dead  relatiye,  amid  baskets  ftdl  of 
fruit,  loaTea  of  bread,  and  com,  and 
kneeing  upon  the  tomb  of  her  anoeston, 
bearing  an  escutcheon  with   canting 
arms.    The  dances  on  holidays  must 
alM>  be  noticed  for  their  originality  and 
antiquechanieter,thea9rdio0,  theeorrica, 
the  $tptUa,  and  others,  are  all  interest- 
ing to  witness.     The  bagpipe,  tam- 
bourine, fife,  and  the  silbaio  are  the 
usual  rade  Berber-like  instruments  that 
accompany  them.     The  wild  cries  of 
outbursting  joy,  the  dashing  of  the 
chestnut  iron-ended  iiial;»/ia,the  delight 
of  the  dancers,  bring  back  to  aur  recol- 
lection their  definition  by  Voltaire  :— 
'  Les  Basques  sont  un  petit  pcruple  qui 
saute  etdanse  an  sommet  des  PyhSn^es.' 
The  great  national  amusement  is  the 
Juego  de  pelota,  firea-court,  which  is 
met  with  in  the   most  insignificant 
hamlet    They  are  the  best  players  in 
Europe,  and  haye  frequently  beaten  the 
French  Basques,  renowned  alike  in  this 
game.     The  dress  is  picturesque  but 
pUin.     The  men  wear  short  Telret 
Jackets^  mostiy  dark  green  or  brown, 
long  loose  trowaersof  the  same  material, 
alpaigatas  (sandals)  or  wooden  8hoei» 


in  winter,  called  madrtiku,  A  blue  or 
vivid  red  sash  girds  the  loins,  and  the 
head-gear  consirts  of  the  picturesque 
hokug,  generally  blue. 

The  women  cover  their  heads  in  the 
cold  and  rainy  months,  or  when  they 
go  to  church,  with  the  cloth  hood,  black 
or  brown,  worn  in  Navarre,  the  Pyre- 
neea  French  and  Spanish,  the  south  of 
France,  and  Bruges  in  Belgium. 

Ths  Lamou  AGS  is  said  by  some  philo- 
logists to  be  akin  to  Mandchu  and  Mon- 
golian, and,  according  to  Humboldt, 
was  formerly  spoken  throughout  all 
Spain.  It  certainly  is  a  primitive 
tongue^  without  the  least  analogy  with 
any  of  Latin  or  Teutonic  origin.  Its 
vigour,  word-paintings  and  locutions 
are  most  remarkable,  and  it  is  consi- 
dered the  richest  of  alL  There  are 
some  4000  words  of  one,  two^  and  three 
syllablea,  and  some  of  them  contain  as 
many  as  sixteen  1  The  pronunciation 
is  hsrsh,  unharmonious,  and  moat  diffi- 
cult to  learn.  The  devil  iasaid  to  have 
studied  it,  and  could  not  lesm  above 
three  words  after  several  years'  labour ; 
while  a  prince  of  the  Bonaparte  family 
sueceeded  in  speaking  it,  but  very  lately, 
after  a  summer's  residence  or  two  in  the 
Basque  country.  The  nouns,  pronouns, 
and  a4jectives  change  into  verbe  at 
will,  and  likewiae  verba  may  be  trana- 
formed  into  nouns  and  a4jectivea.  AH 
prepositions,  adverbs,  oonjunctions,  in- 
teijeetions,  the  very  letters  of  the  alpha- 
bet, are  declined  like  nouna  or  a^jectivea 
and  coigugated  like  verba.  The  aub- 
stantive  changea  according  to  the 
condition  of  the  being  or  tMng  to  de- 
signate, expressing  graphically  the 
sense  <i  objects  to  which  they  are  ap- 
plied, thus : — 

Gml  it  caOad  7m^  Gmem^  that  ii,  the  good 

UuUT  who  dwclk  on  high. 
JtftfM         „    ^«»rli;  light  of  the  doKL 
Ctmeifry  „    /^#rrM,  the  bud  of  the  deed. 
Stitmcf     -    lemdidf,  road  to  kafsiai. 


BASQUS  pRovmcia 


61 


it  called  Btektvirry,  and  any- 
body's houie    lay  Raymoiid*t 


Lope  de  Y^ga,  who  traced  his  origiii 
to  one  of  theee  proWncee,  saTt : — 

l^afa  noblo  nai^nitwitft 
Hay  ea  Eapafia  tres  partes, 

O  ya  iw»w/<rtl*ilai  flaman. 

Indeed,  ererj  Basque  claims  a  descent 
at  lead  from  Noah,  and  maintains  it  as 
serioQsljas  anj  Scotchman :  As  is  told 
of  one  whok  on  being  infonned  that  we 
all  descended  from  Noah,  asserted  that 
his  family  *didn«  do  so,*  for  they  had 
at  the  time  of  the  delnge '  a  little  ark 
of  their  own,'  a  story  similar  to  one 
told  of  some  of  the  monbers  of  the  Dno 
de  Levi's  family,  who  serionsly  pfetend 
to  be  nearly  relied  to  the  Yiigin  Mary, 
who  was  one  of  the  tribe  of  LtioL  But 
the  sensible  Spaniard  remarks^  'hay 
parentescos  que  no  lesalcansa  nn  galgo.' 
AoRiouLTUBAL  Pboduob,  Mimis,  etc 
— ^The  country  is  yery  hilly,  oontaining^ 
but  as  exceptions  to  the  rule,  some 
charming  green  ralleys  embosomed 
amid  chestnut-dad  slopes,  oaki^  ^nd  the 
blue  arrowy  pine.  The  scenery,  cottsges, 
▼illsges,  and  houses,  are  most  Sniss- 
like.  •  The  tinkling  of  bells  hung 
around  the  Telvet-coated  black  and 
white  cowa^  mostly  imported  from 
Brittany  or  Nayarre  ;  the  wild,  shrill. 
Joyful  cries  of  the  cowherds  caUing  to 
each  other  across  the  yalleys  ;  the  blue- 
green  meadows  watered  by  sparkling 
rill%  fringed  by  English-looking  hedges; 
the  slopes  of  clustered  hills  gilt  by  the 
waying  maize ;  whitewashed  cottages 
studd^  about :  how  difTerent  all  frt>m 
the  dusty,  dreary,  deserted,  sarage 
Gastile  which  we  hare  crossed  or  are 
about  to  enter!  the  well-kept  roads, 
secure  bridges,  regular  pretty  Tillages, 
with  a  tidy  plasa,  a  shady  alameda,  and 
the  school-house  and  diurch,  frill  of 


sunshine ;  all  bespeak  good  self-gorern- 
ment^  habits  of  order,  and  honest  toil 
Thore  are  sereral  manufrkcUnies  of  paper, 
soap^  matches,  cotton  and  linen,  woollen 
stufis,  etc.,  at  Iran,  Benteria,  Tolosa, 
Lasarte,  and  Yei^^anL  Iron-foundries 
at  Irura  and  ToloHk  Mines  are  not 
Tery  abundant.  Iron  is  found  at  Ciz- 
urquil  and  Also,  and  especially  at  So* 
morrostro,  mentioned  by  Pliny,  where 
it  is  most  abundant,  producing  upwards 
of  800,000  quintals  of  ore  annually. 
That  of  Ralmaseda  is  also  considerably 
worked  and  abundant  Pyrites  of  cop- 
per are  found  dose  to  Bilbao,  lead  at 
Monte  Haya,  eta  Chalk,  alabaster, 
baryta,  and  calcareous  spar  are  Tery 
common,  and  galine  is  extracted  from 
the  rich  mines  of  Slarrio,  Ma&aria, 
Quadalcano,  eta  (N.  of  Bilbao) ;  coals 
haTO  not  been  found,  and  are  brought 
from  Asturias. 

Some  of  the  best  min/tral  $pnng9  are 
to  be  met  with  in  these  proTinces,  such 
as  Santa  Agueda,  near  Mondragon  (sul- 
phate of  ^dnm  and  chlorure  of  so- 
dium), Alsola ;  ArechaTaleta  (sulphu- 
ric add  gas  and  sulphate  of  caldum), 
near  Yeigan;  Cestona  (chlor.  sod.), 
not  far  from  Azepdtia ;  Molinar  de 
Oarranza  (aa  carb.) ;  Cortesubi,  near 
MurquifiA  (sulph.  hydrog.),  Zaldiyar, 
etc.  The  prindpol  products  of  the 
proTince  are  maize,  red  and  white  ;  ex- 
c  client  frtdt,  such  as  the  paTia  peaches 
of  the  Talley  of  Oordegoela,  near  Bilbao; 
the  delidous  Busturia  cherries;  juicy 
apples  from  Duranza,  and  chestnuts. 
Cora  is  not  much  grown,  as  the  climate 
does  not  allow  it  to  ripen  suffidently. 
The  exports  are  null ;  the  imports  con- 
sist chiefly  of  corn,  cheap  French  wines, 
eta  The  Chacoli  wine  produced  hero 
is  sour,  and  strangers  cannot  drink  it 
without  water.  Some  crystal  is  manu- 
facturod  at  La  Piedad  de  Ibaizabal ; 
linen  at  BegoA* ;  porcdain,  ropes,  pa- 
I  per,  eta,  at  Buisturia.    The 


62 


BA8QUB  PROVINCES. 


are  comprised  in  ante-iglesias  or  dis- 
tricts, so  called  from  being  generally 
grouped  'before,'  or  rather  around  the 
parish  church,  which  is  the  citadel,  the 
palace,  the  hospital,  the  seat  of  govern- 
ment and  wisdom  in  the  eyes  of  the 
religious,  simple-ininded,  patriarchal 
Yascuenses,  who  readily  believe  with 
Napoleon  '  tout  ce  que  croit  mon  curl' 
The  municipalities,  parientes  mayores 
or  inlanzones  (not  the  lards,  but,  accord- 
ing to  the  Basque  etymology,  the  first 
occupants  of  the  land,  the  eUen),  meet 
under  the  porch  of  the  church  to  de- 
lib(!rate  on  parish  matters  ;  the  merin- 
dades,  or  larger  political  districts,  com- 
prising each  several  ante^iglesias,  meet 
at  different  laige  cities  of  ^e  provinces 
to  treat  on  general  matters  important 
to  the  interest  of  the  commonwealth. 
But  however  republican  and  democratic 
the  Basques  pretend  to  be,  they  retain 
certain  aristocratic  privileges  and  prin- 
ciples ;  thus,  though  all  bom  gentle- 
men, the  master  of  a  house  is  alone 
etcheco-yauna,  the  equivalent  for  hi- 
dalgo. Right  of  primogeniture  also 
exists,  which  is  applied  to  the  first-bom, 
whether  a  male  (etcheco-premna),  or  a 
female  (etcheco-prima).  A  time-ho- 
noured oak,  el  arbol  de  (juemica,  is 
from  time  immemorial  the  rendezvous 
of  the  political  assemblies  of  the  pro- 
vinces  which  meet  under  its  shady 
branches  (Quemica  is  near  Bilbao),  and 
alternately  also  at  Iran,  .Vittoria,  etc 
Bontes,  etc.— The  cities  are  devoid 
of  interest,  save  to  military  tourists  who 
may  wish  to  visit  the  celebrated  fields 
of  Vittoria,  Emani,  Iran,  San  Sebas- 
tian, etc ;  the  roost  picturesque  portions 
lie  about  Vergara,  Zarauz,  Salinas, 
Mondragon,  and  may  be  visited,  follow- 
ing the  old  coach-road.  There  is  some 
good  trout-fishing  and  caza  menor  ;  the 
country  is  free  from  robbers,  and  the 
local  raral  police,  lot  tniqusleUit,  are  a 
trustworthy,  good-natured  tribe,  always 


ready  to  aid  the  traveller,  as  we  have 
personally  experienced  more  than  once. 
For  a  tour  in  the  provinces  we  should 
suggest  the  following  routes  : — 


Inm  to  Sebastian,  c  or. 

rL« 

Zaraus,  c 

Bilbao,  c 

OrduKa,  rL 

Vittoria,  c  or  rL 

Salinas,  c 

Mondragon,  c 

>» 

Toloaa,c. 

»» 

Inm,  c 

*  C  caixiage  or  diL  :  ri.  nulway. 

There  are  small  cal^hes  to  be  found  in 
every  laige  village,  and  the  wiry,  sure- 
footed hack  of  the  countiy  will  be  often 
preferred  to  the  close  stuffy  diligence 
and  too  rapid  railway ;  the  inns  are 
everywhere  tidy,  clean,  and  the  chaiges 
most  reasonable  ;  the  climate  is  rainy 
and  damp— summer  and  autumn  are 
the  best  seasons  for  travelling. 

Books  of  Rsfkeknob. — The  Basque 
literature  is  of  little  importance,  though 
some  of  the  productions  of  its  poetry 
are  among  the  earliest  in  southera 
Europe.  The  Souletine  Pastorals  par- 
take of  the  character  of  the  mediaeval 
mysteries,  and  are  still  performed.  The 
earliest  on  record  date  from  the  10th 
century ;  tlie  subjects  are  generally 
historical  and  legendary,  and  satire  is 
often  happily  introduced.  The  Basques, 
like  most  mountaineers,  are  proficient 
in  the  composition  of  songs,  both  his- 
torical and  religious,  but  more  espe- 
cially satirical  and  light  Their  pro- 
verbs are  very  mcy,  and  have  been 
collected  by  the  Souletine  Basque, 
Oiheuart,  in  the  17th  century ;  tliey 
are  contained  in  the  MS.  copy  at  the 
Paris  Biblioth^ue  Imp^riale.  The 
Ouipuzcoon  Iturriaza  has  published 
some  charming  fables.  The  poetical 
works  of  Goyhetche,  Ileribarreu,  and 
Istuela,  also  exist  Several  proverbs, 
and    information    respecting    Basque 


BILBAO. 


63 


literatare,  etc.,  are  found  in  Chah<S*8 
'  BiMTiti,  entre  let  Pyr^nto  et 
rOc^an,'    2   Tolf. ;    B«yonne.     And- 


1.  'Voyage  Arch^lcigiqae  et  Histo- 
rique  dans  le  Pays  Basque,  le  Labonrd, 
et  le  Onipuxooa,  par  BL  Cinao  Mon- 
caut ;'  Paris,  Didron,  1857. 

2.  Good  and  anthentio  information 
may  be  derived  from  'Dicdonariogeog- 
historico  de  Espafta,'  published  by  the 
Acad,  of  Hist  in  1802 ;  Madrid  Ibarra. 
The  seccion  1*  comprises  these  pro- 
rinces  and  Navarre,  2  toIs.  4ta 

8.  *  Historia  de  la  ProTincia  de  Qoi- 
pnzcoa,'  by  Baroja;  San  Sebastian, 
1847  (written  in  Basque).  The  author 
wrote  in  1824  and  1826  (published  at 
San  Sebastian)  two  interesting  papers  on 
the  music  and  dances  of  this  proWnce. 

4.  The  history  of  Quipuxcoa  has  been 
written  by  Isasti  (1626),  Velasquez, 
EccheTerri,  etc  They  are  of  little 
importance,  being  founded  on  fables, 
and  many  facts  distorted  by  local  par- 
tiality.    An  exception  to  this  is  the 


82d  Tol  of  Bisco's  'Espafta  Sagrada,' 
and  Iturriasa  y  Zabala's  '  Historic  (3en. 
de  Vizcaya,'  1785,  foL  MS.  Acad.  Hist, 
Madrid  (C.  150),  and  'Compendios 
histdricos  de  la  Ciudad  y  Villas  de 
Alava,'  by  Landazuri ;  Pamplona,  Oca- 
culluek,  1798,  4to. 

The  Basque  language  has  been  the 
olject  of  rery  learned  inrestigatbns  by 
Baron  Humboldt:  'Uber  die  (^n- 
tabriache  oder  Baskische  Sprache,'  pub- 
lished as  an  appendix  to  Adelung  and 
Vater's  'Mithridates,'  Theil  Iy.  1817 ; 
and  by  the  same^  another  work  on  the 
Basque  tongue,  published  at  Berlin, 
1821,  4ta  In  tiieae  two  works  the 
philological  matter  is  exhausted,  and 
must  be  prefeired  to  Larramandi*8 
Astarloa's,  and  Erro*s  labours.  M. 
Chah<Sha8  written  a  good  '  Dictionnaire 
Basque,  Franfais,  Espagnol,  et  Latin.' 
An  important  philological  work  is  in 
course  of  publication,  written  by  order 
of  Prince  L.  Bonaparte.  Besides  these, 
Le  Pays  Bosque,  by  F.  Michel,  his 
Romansero,  etc 


BILBAO. 
Capital  of  proriAce  of  ViacaTa  (BuemyX  a  aeaport    Pbp.  (i86i)  17,969. 

Bontos  and  OonTeyanoea.— 1st,  fh>m  Madrid^  by  rail  throughout,  thus : — 


Madrid  to  Minuida  (branch  buffet, 

carriages  chanfed)  by  rail . 
MiraBda  to  Bilbao          „     . 

KiL 

453 
104 

Time  (expreatX 

h.    m, 

«3    e 

4    0 

Farei,  tat  and  ad  d. 
r.    c        r.    c 

199  S»      X49  JO 
46    0       34  50 

557 

The  route  is  uninteresting,  though 
the  scenery  is  wild,  and  the  engineering 
ranks  among  the  finest  in  Europe  for 
daring  and  boldness. 

1st,  From  Barcelona  and  Zaragoza 
by  Tudela,  by  rail  throughout  Bar- 
celona to  Zaragosa,  by  rail ;  Zaragoza 
to  Castejon  (rail  line  of  Zaragoza  to 
Alsisua),  distance,  92  kiL  Time,  about 
2  hours  20  min.  Fares,  40r.  60c; 
80r.  5O0.  Stops  at  Castejon,  a  good 
buffet    Change  carriages  for  Miranda, 


17    o 


«43  JO      i«4    o 


by  Logro5o.  Castrjon  to  Miranda  and 
Bilbao,  distance  249  kil  Tim^  9  houra 
16  min.  Fares,  109r.  76c  ;  82r.  26c 
Junction-station,  Miranda.  Buffet,  about 
80  min.  stops.  This  journey  is  not  in- 
teresting. We  shall  describe  it  very 
briefly. 

Daaoription  of  Bonte.— OoZoADrm 
(/an,  at  Espinosa's),  on  the  river 
Cidacoe,  was  the  birthplace  of  Quin- 
tilian,  the  rival  of  Kumantia  and  of 
Zaragoza  for  dogged  resistaDce  agunst 


64 


BILBAO — ROirrE& 


the  enemy.  Here  Sertorine  Bustained  a 
long  liege  against  Pompey  (b.  o.  678), 
when  the  latter,  after  a  loea  of  8000 
men,  was  compelled  to  retire.  Four 
years  after,  it  was  hesieged  by  Apranins, 
and  finally  taken  and  destroyed  after  a 
most  desperate  resistance.  Provisions 
being  at  an  end,  hnman  flesh  was 
resorted  to  rather  than  surrender,  and 
at  Rome  '  Fames  Galagnrritana'  became 
a  prorerb.  Indeed,  Alfonso  el  Sabio, 
in  his  *Partidas,' ir.  17,  8,  sets  down 
as  a  law  that  a  lather,  whilst  defending 
a  casUe,  may  eat  his  own  son  rather 
than  surrender: — 'Seyendo  el  padre 
oercado  en  algun  castillo  que  toviesse 
de  se&or,  si  fbesse  tan  cuytado  de  fambre 
que  non  oWesse  al  que  comer,  paede 
comer  al  l^o^  sin  mid  estrange,  ante 
que  diesse  el  castillo  sin  mandado  de  su 
sehor.'  The  town  is  a  thing  of  the 
past,  and  perUmU  ruinm.  At  Castejon 
vehicles  may  bo  obt^ned  to  baths  of 
Fitero,  and  at  Calahorra  for  those  of 
Almedillo.  On  the  Lera,  two  leagues 
from  Logrolio,  took  place  the  battle  of 
Clayyo^  at  which  Santiago,  notwith- 
standing having  been  stoned  to  death 
some  800  years  before,  managed  to  kill 
60,000  Moors. 

LoffTvtU). — Ifm:  Fonda  del  Christo. 
Popi  11,476.  Capital  of  province  of 
same  name.  On  ^e  right  bank  of  the 
Ebro^  on  a  very  fertile  plain,  well  cul- 
tivated and  planted,  producing  the 
good  but  heady  vino  de  la  Rioja.  The 
church  of  Santa  Maria  la  Redonda(I) 
is  $aid  to  have  been  erected  by  order  of 
Constantine  (f),  and  is  therefore  styled 
imperial;  it  is  Gothic  and  indiflTerent, 
the  stalls  finely  carved.  The  cloisters 
are  very  early.  In  the  church  of  San- 
'tiago  is  said  to  have  been  established 
the  order  of  Santiaga  Engineers  as 
well  as  antiquaries  and  artists  should 
examine  attentively  the  bridge  over  the 
Ebro,  built  by  a  Dominican  friar  called 
San  Juan  de  Ortega,  in  1188.    Logrofto 


is  the  ordinary  residence  of  General 
Espartero^  K.C.R,  Duke  of  Morella, 
etc.,  etc.,  and  the  hero  of  the  Yergara 
Convention.  This  true  patriot,  a  model 
of  honesty  and  disinterestedness,  ha8 
retired.  Garibaldi-like,  to  this  other 
Caprera,  where  his  greatest  ambition  is 
to  rear  the  largest  cherries  and  cauli- 
flowers in  Spain,  and  to  make  the  best 
wine.  Shortly  after  leaving  Logrofto 
Fummayor  is  reached.  Close  to  it  is 
the  smell  town  of  Kavarrete,  whose 
name  is  fM"!'!?*?  to  readers  of  Spanish 
history,  on  account  of  the  celebrated 
battle  which  was  fought  not  far  from 
its  walls,  at  Nigera,  between  Enrique 
de  Trsstamara,  aided  by  the  French, 
Duguesdin,  and  Don  Pedro  el  Cruel, 
who  won  the  day,  thanks  to  his  Eng- 
lish allies,  headed  by  the  gallant  Black 
Prince,  April  8,  1867.  Some  excellent 
silk  is  {nxMluced  at  Laguardia,  near 
StationofConicera  The  fertile  'Campos 
de  la  Rioja,'  watered  by  the  Ebro,  are 
crossed,  as  well  as  this  river,  on  nearing 
Miivi'^^ 

2d,  From  Bayonne.  A.  By  land, 
by  rail  to  Miranda,  8}  hours,  SAd  then 
to  Bilboa,  4  houra— 12)  hours. 

B.  By  bnd,  by  diL  dd  Notte  y  Mediodia  in 
i6  hn.,  by  Vergan  one  day,  and  the  other  by 
Saraos  and  Asooitaa. 

Pint  ttimertuy.    By  Vtrgmra. 

LeagiMt 

San  Sebastian  to  Andoai  a 

Tokxa »— 4 

VtUafranca 3 

ViUareal 3 

Vetfara • 

ElfueU 1 

Elorrio i 

Dunuigo • 

Zornota       .....  3 

BObao • 

Fares:  berlina,  laor. ;  interior,  loor. ;  im- 
periale,  9ar. :  no  rotunda:  good  carriages, 
geoeraUy  leave  at  6  p.m.  every  other  day: 
offices  at  Hotel  de  la  Posta.  Same  for  either 
route. 

Ki/A«fv»il— Vehicles  for  baths  of  Ctstooa. 


BOSAO — BOUTBa 


65 


ytrgmm.~-Good  100,  de  k  Potu.  A  Swim- 
Uke  tofWB ;  nanubctories*  an  excellent  colegio, 
■itonfcid  OB  the  Devm  (a  good  troot  stream). 
PopL  400a  Scalpcnre-amateun  may  examine 
a  &ie  Dying  Christ  by  Juan  Marts  Montaltes  in 
chinch  of  San  Pedro :  and  an  excdlent  statue 
of  St.  Ignatius  in  the  colegia  In  church  of 
Sta.  Marina,  a  much-thought-of  painting  by 
Mateo  Cereso— subject,  the  Cristo  de  Burgos. 
Daily  diL  service  to  Deva,  a  fiuhionaUe  sea- 
side and  bathing-place  on  the  river  of  same 
name :  good  accommodation,  excellent  beach 
for  bathing,  3300  souls,  8  leagues,  6  hrs.  by 
either  Placencia  (Government  gun  manufactory) 
or  by  Elsoybar  and  Alsola  (mineral  waters). 

7>/SffM.— -Province  of  Guipuacoa,  7639  inhab. , 
situated  in  a  narrow  vale  between  the  Mootes 
Emio  and  Loatu,  on  the  rivers  Orio  and  Arages. 
An  improving,  tidy,  clean,  and  busy  town,  as 
most  of  these  provinces  are.  A  good  Parador 
de  las  Dtligendas.  The  old,  once  Gothic 
church  of  Sta.  Maria  was  modernised  in  i8t4. 
The  magnificent  retablo  ooce  here,  and  90  ft. 
high,  disappeared,  together  with  the  ardiives  ef 
the  town,  etc,  during  a  fire  in  1781. 

Dmrmmg9. — An  important  arilitary  position, 
with  s«46  inhab.,  charmingly  situated   on  a 
plain  watered  by  the  Durango.    Its  church  of 
San  Pedro  de  Tavira  is  one  of  the  eaiiiest  in 
Biscay. 

£#n*MA.— Close  to  it,  on  March  st,  1837,  an 
action  took  place  between  Espartero,  with  the 
legion  under  Sir  de  Lacy  Evans  and  the  Car- 
lists,  which  lasted  11  hn.,  and  ended  in  the 
victory  of  the  former.  C  The  second  ro«rte 
runs  thus:— 

Stetmd  ttintrmy.    By  Zmrma  mmd  A  aemiim. 


San  Sebasttan  to  Orio 
Zaraus 


Aaooitia 

Elgoybar 

E:^ 

D>urango 

Zomosa 

Babao 


9 

I 

4 
I 

I 
a 
1 

3 

3 

s 

SI 


In  16  his. 

The  scenery  is  very  picturesque,  and  the 
roads  good,  though  hilly  and  often  narrow. 

Zanuta.—tyoo  inhab.  A  new  fonda;  good 
lodging-houses.  A  sea-side  fdace,  becoming 
every  day  more  and  more  fashionable,  situated 
near  some  very  picturesque  hills,  dotted  with 
chestnut  and  other  trees;  there  are  several 
marine  villas,  built  by  some  Madrid  noblemen 
and  gentlemen  of  wealth.  The  castle-like 
cf  Condes  de  Nams  is  the  moat  fre- 


quented evemng  tertulia,  besides  those  of  the 
Duke  of  Villahermoea,  Gnuiada,  Coast  SoKna, 
Sr.  D.  Pascual  Mados,  etc  The  playa  is 
good  and  secure,  and  several  pretty  excunions 
can  be  made  in  the  environs. 

C«r/«(M.— Mineral  spring,  very  much  resorted, 
to.  The  establecinuento  can  hold  sie  persons ; 
charges  moderate,  sor.  a-day  all  included.  Fre- 
quented by  800  to  1000  bathers  a-year. 

Aa^itia, — On  the  Urrida,  4000  inhab.  A 
mUe  farther  is  the  convent  and  $a$ttm  ctum, 
where  Ignatios  de  Loyola,  the  founder  of  the 
Jesuits,  was  bom  in  1491.  The  former  is  a 
handscHne  building,  raised  in  1683  by  Maria 
Ana  of  Austria,  niilip  IV. *s  wife,  on  the  fine 
old  domain  of  Ignatius.  It  was  buflt  by  the 
Roman  ardiitect  Fontana.  There  b  a  grand 
public  festival  and  romeria  in  honour  of  the 
saint,  towards  the  end  of  July,  when  pilgrims 
and  admirem  of  the  Jesuit  flock  to  do  him  and 
his  institution  honour,  by  means  of  solemn 
mswei,  proceasions,  squibs,  rockets,  and  bull- 
fights. 

Aacmtim  (5000  inhab.)  is  chaimingly  situated 
amid  woodland,  and  on  the  banks  of  the  Urola. 
The  stalk  of  itt  church  of  Sta.  Maria  k  Real 
are  daborately  carred,  but  the  chapek  tawdry 
and  in  vik  taste  Oose  to  Elsoybar  k  the 
mineral  spring  of  Akok,  which  has  good  accom- 
modation, and  is  much  fivquented  by  invalidt 
sufiering  from  the  stone,  etc 

£>l«r.— 4000  inhabu  Important  Guf einment 
manufactory  of  firearms,  swords,  etc ;  the 
machinery  k  all  English,  the  produce  good 
enough,  the  activity  in  the  works  and  prosperity 


4th.  Bj  sea,  10  hrs.  (remAiniog  S  bra. 
at  San  SebastiaiiX  IttoL,  21f^.  60.  ;  2d 
ci,  16fr.  8O0.  ;  bj  steamen  of  Cie.  de 
l*Uiil<m  or  Internationale,  Pkoe  Cram- 
mont,  and  at  Rue  Vainsot  The  latter 
steamera  leare  twice  a  week,  tbe  former 
erery  4th  day.  OfBoea  at  Bilbao,  D. 
Yiot  de  Boitla.  Difltan<^  154  kil— 
88  mar.  milen  Alao  the  steamers 
*Union,'  *Comeroio,'  and  'Osrmen' 
sail  twice  a-week,  in  connection  with 
the  trains  of  the  northern  rail*  and 
Tadek  to  Bilbao  line  ;  fares,  80r.  and 
60r.  Offices  at  Bayonne,  Isla,  Rue 
Vainsot,  at  Bilbao,  Landa,  Arenal,  2. 

6th.  From  8an  Sebastian,  6  bra. 
Same  steamen ;  offices  at  San  Sebas- 
tian, Sres.  Domeroqy  Sobrina,  and  Eng. 
RipalOa. 


66 


BILBAO. 


6th.  From  Nantes  {St  Niizaire)  by 
steamers  of  da.  Vasoo-Andaluza,  leave 
St  Kazaire  on  the  1st  and  16th  of 
erery  month,  and  Bilbao  on  the  9t2i 
and  24th.  Fares,  Ist  cL,  152r. ;  2d., 
95r.  ;  Sd,  57r.  120  IdL  of  luggage  al. 
lowed  to  passengers.  Offices  at  St 
Nazaire,  M.  d'AyiUya,  Rue  deU  Paix ; 
in  Paris,  same  name.  Rue  Rossini,  6 ; 
BUbao,  Costs  y  Yidasola ;  Madrid,  8r. 
Bo.  Miota,  Calle  Atocha,  92.  Mer> 
chandise,  carriages,  horses,  parcels, 
etc.,  are  carried  between  Paris,  Nantes, 
Bilbao,  Zaragoza,  and  Madrid,  at  fixed 
prices.  100  luL  from  Paris  to  Madrid, 
982r.  851r.,  and  683r. 

7th.  From  Santander,  2  hrs.  From 
Corufta,  Vigo,  etc,  see  those  names. 
There  are  steamers  plying  between  Bil- 
bao and  the  principal  ports  of  France 
and  England.  From  Liverpool,  the 
Rita  and  NiAa  from  Cobnrg  Dock,  leave 
every  fortnight,  and  proceed  also  to 
Santander  and  San  Sebastian.  There 
are  occasional  steamers  between  Bor- 
deaux and  Bilbao,  and  SeviUe,  Cadiz, 
and  Lisbon,  especially  during  the  sum- 
mer; they  are  duly  advertised  in  the 
local  papers  and  maritime  offices. 

Hotels.— Hotel  del  Boulevart,  new 
and  clean ;  Fonda  de  las  Navarras,  the 
accommodation  good,  and  the  charges 
moderate. 

General  Deaoription.— This  thriv- 
ing and  improving  mercantile  city  is 
situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Ner- 
vion,  in  a  gorge  formed  by  the  hills  of 
Archanda  on  the  N.,  the  Morro  on  the 
£..  Moravilla  to^.,  and  exposed  only 
totheN.W.*  The  streets  are  remarkably 
clean,  the  houses  with  projecting  gables, 
the  Plasa  Nueva  is  large,  and  formed 
by  rows  of  fine  houses,  among  which  is 
the  Palace  de  la  Diputacion  ProvinciaL 
It  is  a  purely  trading  town,  with  little 
or  no  society,  with  no  edifices  to  inter- 
est the  traveller,  and  few  historical 
associations  of  importance.    Formeriy, 


under  the  name  of  Mlo  Fat,  or 
'  beautiful  bay ;'  it  was  founded  in 
1808  by  Diego  Lopez  de  Haro.  It 
played  no  part  in  the  annals  of  the 
middle  ages,  showed  towards  the  Eng- 
lish the  same  hostile  spirit  as  Santander 
during  the  beginning  of  this  century, 
and  sustained  two  destructive  sieges 
against  the  Carlists,  at  one  of  whidi, 
in  June  1886,  Zumalacarregui  —  the 
only  hero  that  civil  war  ever  produced 
— received  a  mortal  wound.  Espartero, 
in  1886,  coming  to  the  rescue  of  the 
city,  fought  and  won  (close  to  the 
Luchana  bridge)  the  action^  which  was 
raised  to  a  haUle,  ashe  was  in  turn  raised 
to  a  grandeza  and  earldom  of  that  name. 

The  most  frequented  promenade  is 
the  Arenal  dose  to  the  port,  and  near 
the  small  and  wretched  theatre.  The 
Campo  Yolantin  and  the  Monton  are 
equally  charming  poscos.  Tlie  river 
joins  the  sea  at  Portugalete,  distant 
about  6  m.,  and  which  is  in  reality 
the  Port  of  Bilbao,  and  a  fashionable 
sea-bathing  place,  'but  de  promenade.' 
The  bull-fights  are  much  frequented  in 
summer  by  Bordeaux  and  Bayonne 
amateurs,  but  the  bulls  are  seldom 
anything  but  tcriioa  navarros^  aaUarinett 
and  a  small  feeble  ganado.  The  Bilba- 
inas,  excepting  the  female  carriers 
(Carg%ur<is\  who  here  do  all  the  porters* 
work,  are  handsome,  statuesque  in  their 
attitudes,  and  amiable  in  their  temper. 
The  living  is  very  cheap;  and  fish, 
fruit,  and  meat  all  excellent  The 
Chaeoii  wine  is  reckoned  smong  the 
best  in  the  world,  more  especially  by 
those  who  sell  it  The  chestnut's  famo 
does  not  'pasar  de  castaAo  oscuro,'  and 
as  for  the  nuts,  we  may  say,  'mucho 
ruido  y  pocas  nueces.' 

Neither  carts  nor  carriages  are  al- 
lowed about  the  streets,  with  a  view  to 
cleanliness  more  than  comfort  or  trade, 
and  the  object  is  sttained  *  en  honor  de 
lavcrdad'  with  Dutdi-like  scnipulotitj 


BILBAO. 


C7 


for  we  hare  nerer  seen  at  Amsterdam 
or  the  Hague  anything  to  compare  to  it 
There  are  earroaat^  or  passage -boats, 
plying  constantly  between  Bilbao  and 
Portogalete.  Passengers  by  sea  land  at 
Olayiaga,  where  conveyances  are  easily 
procnred  to  the  town.  Olaviaga  is  4 
m.  distant. 

The  Fort.— The  bay  stretches  be- 
tween Pnnta  Galea  and  Ponta  de  Las- 
nero,  on  its  Wt  side,  distant  about  8  m. 
On  the  bar  at  the  month  of  the  river, 
between    Santaroe    and    Portngalete, 
there  are  scarcely  4  ft  of  water  at  ebb 
tide.     In  the  bay  the  depth  varies  from 
5  fathoms  to  10  or  14  fathoms.     The 
trade,  for  which  Bilbao  is  favourably 
situated,    has    increased   considerably 
since  the  opening  of  the  railway ;  it 
now  shares  with  Santander,  and  will 
soon  have  to  share  with  San  Sebastian, 
the   exclusive    exportation    of   com, 
which  in  1836  amounted  to  upwards  of 
141,000  quartern    This  has  been  con- 
siderably surpassed  since.     We  may 
suppoae  in  what  proportion  this  will  be 
still  augmented  when  the    Oas^ian 
eaminoes  vednales  pour  the  produce  of 
the  OMMfMS  (plains)  into  the  waggons  of 
the  northern  line ;  for,  incredible  as  it 
may   appear,  the   crops  are  often  so 
abundant  that  the   peasants   decline 
reaping  the  fields  at  a  distance  from 
their  villages.     The  iron  manufactures 
of  BiKay  also  export  some  produce,  the 
imports  being  chiefly  colonial  articles, 
wove  fabrics,  etc    The  exportation  of 
merino  woollens,  thou^  still  important, 
has  latterly  declined,  owing  to  the  in- 
troduction of  the  breed  into  Germany, 
and  competition  with  Australia.    The 
capital  invested    in  trade  in  1856  a- 
mounted   to   about   67,901,000fr.,    of 
which  49)  millions  were  employed  in 
motive  trade  with  the  larger  ports,  and 
18  millions  engaged  in  the  petfy  Spanish 


sea-coast  commerce.  Twelve  kH  W* 
of  Bilbao  and  at  1  league  from  the  sea, 
is  the  rich  iron  mine  of  Somorostro^ 
which  is  750  ft  deep,  about  8000  ft 
wide,  and  6000  ft  long,  yielding  up- 
wards of  40,000  tons  of  ore  to  the 
founderies  of  Asturias^  Alava,  and 
Guipuzcoa. 

Consuls.— JET.  B,  M,\  Horatius 
Young,  Esq.  U.  StaUi  of  AfMriea, 
Mr.  Evans.  France,  M.  D.  d'Aiies. 
Belgium,  A.  d'Ortegoza  FrumOt  Mr. 
T.  £.  Roechett 

Bamkkbs.— Yida  de  F.  Uhagon  aor- 
respondents  of  Henries,  Farquhar,  and 
Co. 

Olimata.— The  city  is  sheltered  fit>m 
the  N.  winds  by  the  hills  of  Arohanda, 
frt>m  the  £.  by  the  Morro,  from  the  8. 
by  those  of  Maravilla,but  is  exposed  to 
the  icy  north-western  winds  which 
sweep  across  the  ocean.  Owing  to  its 
low  situation  in  a  gorge  of  hills,  Bilbao 
is  very  damp^  and  from  its  exposure  to 
N.W.,  8.E.,  and  N.E.,  the  climate  pro- 
duces disorders  in  the  respiratory  or- 
gans. The  air  is  nevertheless  bracing, 
moist,  invigorating,  and  suited  to 
weakened  constitutions,  not  predis- 
posed to  phthisis.  The  mortality  in 
1860  was  1.ZX  *nd  in  1861  as  1  in  49. 

t86a 

Aytngt  preMuw  of  tfm<wphcr> .    •    .  T^jo 

„       aniMMl  temperature  .    .    •    •  13.3 

MudouoD  tcapetrntiire,  Aogwt  90  .    .  36.6 

Mintmom  tenpecmture,  February  4  aad  5     5-0 

Raiaydayt iW 

Quaotitjr  &Den aSM 

PKTaleatwiiMl»-S.E:  N.W. 


1861. 
Average  preMore  of  atmoephere 


t» 


.    .  •5-4 

Maximmteaperature,  Aofwt  II .    .  »,• 

MinioniB  tenperature,  Jamiaty  •  .    .  $.0 

Rainy  days M3 

Qoaatity  &lleB     •..•••••  Mi$.9 
FkcvafanC  wiMk  S.E  to  N.W. 


68 


BURQ08. 


Capital  of  the  prorince  of  the  aame 
name»  and  of  the  fonner  of  OM  Caatile 
— ftn  archbUhop'a  aee.  Fof^  (1861) 
25,721.  N.  lat  42'  21',  W.  long.  8*  88* 
Greenwich.  2867  ft.  above  Uie  aea, 
according  to  Humboldt,  and  8076  ft, 
YemeniL 

Bontea  and  OonT.— lat,  from  ^af" 
oniu.  For  detaila  of  ronte^  see  MadntL 
Bj  rail  in  10  hrs.  (ezp.) ;  dist«noe,  190 
m.,  farea,  lat  cL,  85fr.  dOc ;  2d  oL,  26fr. 
60c. ;  8d  cL,  16fr.  40c.  Two  traina  a-day, 
and  by  leaTing  Bayonne  al  12.86  r.M., 
arriye  at  Burgos  at  10.12  that  same  even- 
ing. Ticketa  at  railway  atation ;  bnf- 
feta  at  Iron,  Alslaaa,  and  Miranda. 

2d.  IVom  Madrid^  By  laU  (for  de- 
taila of  ronte aee  Afadrid);  time,  114 bra. ; 
diatance,  226  m.;  fa^ea,  lat  cl,  160?. ; 
2d  cL,  120r. ;  8d  cL,  72r.  26c  Thei^ 
are  two  traina  a-day ;  buffela  at  AtiK 
Medina,  YaUadoliO,  Y.  de  BaAoi. 

8d.  From  FaUadolid,  Diatance,  76  m.; 
time,84hrs.;  lares, latd,  i8r.;^cL, 
27r.,  etc.    For  details,  aee  Madrid^ 

4th.  From  LoffroHo.  To  m^Hf^ 
whence  by  rail  in  8  hrs.    See  BUhao, 

6th.  From  Bilbaa,  7\  hrs.  by  rail, 
vid  Miranda.    See  Bilbao. 

6th.  From  ScmiamUr.  94  hra.  by 
rail,  vid  Alar  and  YenU  de  BaAoa.  See 
SaniOMder. 

7th.  From  Zetm,  By  rail,  vid  Pa- 
lencia.  Leon  to  Palencia,  4  hra.  Pa- 
lendato  BaAoa,  16  m.  (by  mail);  Ba&os 
to  Boigoa,  2i  hrs. ;  total  7  hrs. 

Hotels. — Ia  RafSiela,  oppoaite  to 
cavalry  barracka.  An  old-fashioned 
diligence  parador,  decent  bat  extor- 
tionate; make  your  prices  beforshand; 
table  dlidte,  14r.,  good ;  carriagea  to 
hire,  fimda  dsl  NorU,  newly  fitted  up ; 
clean ;  an  obliging  landlord ;  bedroom 
and  dtting  room  12r.,  breakfast  lOr., 


dinner  14r. ;  in  all,  pay  from  80r.  to  40r 
a  day ;  good  aherry  for  20r.  a  bottle. 

Peat  OlBoo. — Close  to  Fonda  de  la 
RafSMla  ;  open  from  9  jlu.  to  12  p.m., 
and  fh>m  4  A.1C  to  6  Jl.u,  Houra  of 
delivery  vary  according  to  those  of 
trains.  The  train  frt>m  Madrid  comen 
in  at  12  and  leavea  at  2.20  km.  ;  that 
from  France  comea  in  at  8  p.m.  and 
leaves  at  11.80  A.M. 

Telegraph  OlBoo. — First  house  in 
Paseo  de  la  lala,  doae  to  Arco  de  Sta. 
Maria ;  open  day  and  night 

fromemuUi,  Theatm. — Thero  are 
aome  pretty  promenadet  by  the  river- 
side, especially  the  shady  Espolon  Nuevo 
and  Ia  Jala  and  its  mion.  The  prin- 
cipal (U^ia  aro  El  Suizo  and  £1  Iris, 
both  on  the  Espolon.  The  Casino,  first 
floor  above  the  Cafi  Suizo,  is  a  poo* 
concern;  French  papers  taken  in.  The 
theatre,  built  in  1858,  ia  spadoua  and 
elegantly  fitted  up^  and  can  contain 
about  1200  spectators. 

CHmaio. — Dull,  damp,  cold,  and 
windblown ;  from  ita  elevation  and 
scarcity  of  trees  it  is  very  much  ex- 
posed to  the  K.N.  W.  and  N.E. ;  the  heat 
in  summer  is  never  great — nay,  there 
are  days  in  June  and  July  when  enUHh 
zarm  en  la  eapa  is  deemed  prudent  by 
the  inbabitanta.  The  cold  lasts  seven 
or  eight  months.  Indeed,  the  cele- 
brated saying  of  '  Dies  mesea  de  invi- 
emo  y  dos  de  infiemo,'  now  reversed 
when  applied  somewhat  uigusUy  to  Ma- 
drid, originated  at  Burgos  and  in  1526, 
Navagero,  in  'Viaggio  in  Ispagna* 
(Padua,  1718,  p.  887),  mentions  it,  add- 
ing how  cold  and  wretched  he  thought 
the  climate^  and  quotes  this  other 
saying.  'El  sol  como  las  otraa  cosas 
vieoe  4  Burgos  de  Carreo.'  Neverthe- 
less,   though    certainly    disagreeable^ 


BUBOO& 


69 


It  it  not  unwholesome,  and  the  nioi> 
tolitytoblet,  1861,  amount  to  836  (births 
997),  being  1-81  proportionate^  to  the 
population. 

Dvndonry, — Hired  carriages  at  Hotel 
de  la  Ba£M]a;  no  tariff.  £xcuni<ms  to 
Cartvga,  20r.;  to  Las  Huelgas,  lOr.,  also 
at  45  Galle  de  San  Juan,  and  at  the 
Dofado^  Galle  de  Abellanoa.  JETonef 
may  be  hired  opposite  the  cavalry  bar- 
nu^  and  at  No.  8  CaUe  de  Lain  Calvo. 
Government  caballos  padres  for  the 
arm  J  may  be  seen  at  C^e  Sta.  Glara, 
opposite  to  the  oonyent  BaJQii, — Baftos 
del  Recnerdo  at  Los  Yadillos,  marble 
and  jasper  baths  ;  and  de  los  Jardines, 
InGalledelaPuebla.  Fhoiographen,-^ 
Views  of  Burgos  may  be  obtained  at 
Plaza  Mayor,  No.  9.  Messrs.  Aparido, 
Plaza  de  Santander,  have  some  pretty 
good  riewB  also.  Lod(fing$, — Few  and 
very  indifferent ;  Gasa  de  los  Dos  Her- 
manos,  on  the  Paseo  de  la  Isla,  cheap 
and  rdatirely  clean. 

O^naral  Deaoription. — ^Tourists,  in 
their  eagerness  to  reach  Madrid,  or,  it 
may  be,  Bayonne,  are  too  apt  to'  pass 
by  this  city  without  visiting  it  The 
well-m^ted  reputation  of  dulneas  and 
desolation  as  a  back-going  provincial 
capital,  and  its  second-rate  hotels,  have 
undoubtedly  contributed  to  this  indif- 
ference; but  ss  in  Spain  the  past  alone 
is  to  be  sought,  we  advise  travellers  to 
put  up  with  this,  and  not  miss  Burgos. 
It  is  among  the  interesting  cities  of 
Spain,  ss  possessing  one  of  her  most 
magnificent  cathednJs,  several  curious 
churches,  the  bones  of  the  Gid,  that 
popular  hero  of  legendary  Spain,  and 
monuments,  streets,  and  houses  which 
still  retain,  though  fading  fast,  the  style 
and  charactur  ^  the  Gotho-OMtilian 
period. 

Not  entering  into  the  early  history  of 
the  dtjf  and  leaving  aside  Y  ilamor's  as* 
sertiim  that  Burgos  wss  founded  by 
King  Brigo^  and  re-peopled  by  Alfonso 


the  Grtholio,  and  called  Briga^  weshall 
be  content  to  follow  Rodrignei,  Floret, 
etc.,  who  state  that  Burgos  was  founded 
(884)  by  Diego  Porcelos,  a  Gastilian 
knight^  and  hia  son-in-law,  the  Ger- 
man (f)  Nuflo  Belchides,  who,  with  the 
object  of  repelling  the  infidel  and  serv- 
ing Santiago,  to  whose  shrinehe  was  de* 
voutly  going,  halted  here  some  time, 
whan  the  fair  daughter  of  Porceloa, 
Sulla  Bella»  won  his  heart;  upon  which 
they  both  decided  on  concentrating 
into  one  fortified  place  the  scattered 
villagers  and  serfe,  and  built  up  Burgos, 
so  called  from  the  German  Buig  (a 
fortified  place ;  Gothic^  Bargain ;  An- 
cient Saxony  Borgan,  and  Byrgans). 
Under  Fruek  11.  (926)  the  descendants 
of  Porcelos  were  traitorously  massacred 
by  the  orders  of  the  former.  Buigos 
continued  to  be  governed  by  a  sort  of 
oligarchical  coundl  composed  of  judges 
elected  by  the  people,  and  amongst 
whom  Lain  Galvo,  Nufto  Basuro,  etc, 
were  the  most  celebrated.  Feman  Gon- 
zales was  the  first  who  assumed  the 
title  of  Gount  of  Gastile,  which  be- 
came hereditaiy.  He  shook  off  the 
yoke  of  Leon,  and  thus  began  the 
monarchy,  or  reino,  which,  by  the 
marriage  of  his  granddaughter  to  the 
King  of  Navarre,  united  in  the  latter's 
son,  Ferdinand  L  (1067),  the  crowns  of 
Lemi  and  Gastile.  Burgos  wss  the  birth- 
place of  the  Cid,  and  the  scene  of  inany 
of  his  acts  of  prowess  and  legendary 
deeds,  ss  also  that  of  Pedro  el  Gruel,  of 
San  Julian,  and  San  Lesroe.  The  Gas- 
tellano  Y i^o,  the  tfue  type  of  the  rameio 
Spaniard,  is  to  be  seen  here  in  all  the 
glory  of  his  tattered  doak,  worn  like 
the  toga  of  a  Roman  senator,  and  truly, 
as  Th4ophile  Gauthier  defines  it,  'la 
sublimit^du  haUlon.'  The  Bur^dose 
is  one  of  the  most  unprogressive  of 
Spanish  jmwMCMNiot;  the  railway,  now 
at  the  gates  of  this  dty,  calls  forth  from 
him  no  energy,  or  spirit  of  emulation, 


BDROOS— CATHEDRAL 


ptlbT  nuuiiiftrtorer  or 
ip«r  and  oloth,  tha  quae  d* 
1  criMm  eliMH  mada  with 
Jlk)  would  Mem  to  be  the 
dnM  of  tha  land.  Tbe  citj 
\ij  tfas  Arluuon.  Tha  Pico, 
■treun,  psaMs  throagh  toma 
and  ii  diridad  into  MTeral 
raea  mllad  MgnaTU. 


BiBhta.— Cathedral  Stt.  Agneda, 
fluelgaa,  Cattle,  Cartoja. 

Stt  SiiKinL'-Tlie  jm  of  Ooa  (Auea), 
a  placa  tituatcd  S  leoguei  fnun  Buigoa, 
U  (aid  to  have  been  Touoded  by  fiaU' 
tiago  (the  ApoMIe  8l  Junea),  when 
OD  hi*  way  tnm  Oalida  to  Zangoia 
he  Mopped  in  thit  Roman  colony, 
whoae  fouodatioa  aoma  Spaniah  hi*- 


toriana  graTelj  aacribe  to  the  aona  of 
Tabftl,  Noah 'a  grandchildren.  In  I07G 
AlfoDJo  VI.  cauied  it  to  be  remored  to 
Burgo^  and  gave  to  the  chnrch  about 
to  ba  bnilt  aereial  of  hia  palacM.  From 
political  notlTM  it  waa  declared  exaUa, 
and  depended  directly  from  Rome  until 
it  bacama  mttropolitan  in  the  reign  of 
Philip  II.,  who  obtained  ftttm  Fopa 
Qf«goi7  XIII.  the  gnuit  of  thia  privi- 
lege. 

CbiuraJAybL— Thia  eathednl  ia  nn- 
donhtadly  one  of  the  fineat  in  Ettrapc, 
and  one  which  moat  be  looked  npon, 
taring  poitiona  wliich  belong  to  aubae- 


HmuL  (i]ik  (XBiuiT  Goihic). 

qnent  period^  aa  a  grand  and  perfect 
■pecimen  of  tbe  ISth  centuiy  Gothic  In 
Spain.  Tha  principal  cbataeteriitiet 
are,  great  parity  of  a^le,  harmony 
between  the  parta,  great  pomp  and 
bean^  of  ornament  It  i*  not  ao  grace- 
ful, aidant,  and  airy  »*  the  cathedral 
of  Leon,  bnt  more  anbliae,  richer  in 
detalla,  both  ontiide  and  in  the  inte- 
rior, and  poaaeaaing  more  itriking  out- 
ward ptctureaqueaesi  and  character, 
notwithstanding  ita  nnfortanate  poai- 
tion  on  uneren  ground,  and  tbe  ricinity 
of  choking  hoTela.  Tbe  cathedral 
belongi  chiefly  to  tha  earlieat   period 


BUBG08 — CATHSDRAL. 


71 


of  ogiTil  ■rohiteetnre  in  Spain,  though 
in  it  may  he  studied  the  ogiVe  in  its 
different  modifications  from  the  18th  to 
the  1 6th  oentorj.  It  is  sparing  of  reiy 
minate  ornament,  thoa^^  exoeedingljr 
rich  in  chaste  and  elahorate  scalpture. 
This  latter  is  Teiy  good  and  effeotiTeii 
There  are  few  paintingiL  FoundaHon, — 
Ferdinand  el  Samio  fonnded  this  ehnroh 
in  honour  of  his  marriage  with  Dofta 
Beatrice,  dau^ter  of  the  Duke  of 
Suabia.  Bishop  lianrioe,  an  Kn^^ish- 
man  bj  birth,  laid  the  first  stone^  to- 
gether with  the  king  and  the  In^nte 
Antonio  de  Molina,  July  20, 1221.  The 
Bishop  it  was  who  had  negotiated  the 
marriage  and  accompanied  the  princess 
to  Buigos.  He  had  also  aided  Uie  king 
with  his  counsel  and  infiuence  in  eiyil 
wars,  and  done  much  towards  inclining 
lus  mind  to  undertake  the  building.  It 
wasnot,however,  Llngnns  ssserts,  during 
Bishop  Maurice's  rule^  and  under  lus 
actiTe  direction,  seal,  and  lofty  spirit, 
thatthemain  bodyof  theedificewascom- 
I^bted,  but  only  a  portion  of  it^  which  is 
distinct  in  style  frcon  the  rest  Thename 
of  the  architect,  is  unknown.  When 
descried  from  a  distance,  the  impres- 
sion is  that  of  a  most  striking  edifice. 
The  towers  and  filigree  jannacles  are 
then  seen  rising  into  the  blue  ether,  so 
airy  and  open-worked,  that  by  night  the 
stars  may  be  seen  through  ^em.  The 
elegant  cuire  formed  on  the  K  side  by 
the  prolongstion  of  the  lateral  naTes 
round  the  apee  is  somewhat  concealed 
by  the  chapel  of  the  Constablee,  a 
church  in  itself,  and  the  quadrangular 
one  of  Santiago.  The  latersl  outlines 
of  the  building  hsTe  lost  also  some  of 
their  original  symmetry  on  the  N.  side^ 
although  they  gained  rariety  from  the 
several  additions  msde  to  the  main  body 
of  chapels  and  officesi  But  a  remark* 
able  trait  of  architectural  beauty,  not 
always  obserred  in  buildings  of  any 
sorti  is  here  rery  admirably  cileotwi :  we 


mean  that  the  forms  should  be  bold 
projections  or  reproductions  in  relief 
of  the  internal  parts,  as  in  embossing. 
Thus  in  this  cathedrsl  the  eye  embraces 
the  inward  dstribution  at  one  glsnce 
from  the  shape  of  the  parts  outsi& ;  we 
see  the  Ck>nstable's  chapel  plainly,  with 
its  delicate  open-worked  turrets  at  the 
anglesand  thirty-two  statuettesof saints,  * 
forming  a  separate  portion,  differing  in 
ornaments  imd  appearance*  ftt>m  the 
rest  The  transept  or  crucero^  which 
belongs  to  the  Renaissance,  rises  higher, 
and  has  an  octagonal  shapes  with  eight 
turrets  ornamented  with  twenty-four  full 
relievo  heads,  and  twenty-four  fhll-sised 
statues  of  female  saints,  the  virtues,  etc, 
all  canopied ;  each  turret  is  crowned 
with  an  angel  holding  an  iron  cross. 
There  are  numberless  statues,  statuettes 
of  kings  and  saints  and  prophets,  placed 
between  or  under  the  corridors  that  run 
round  the  crucero  outside.  On  the  four 
large  ]^lasters  at  the  angles  are  large 
open-worked  capitals;  all  the  rest  of 
this  portion  of  the  cathedral  rests  on  * 
the  four  toral  arches. 

ibftuiet.— The  principal  fa^  W.  is 
the  Pueria  del  Perdoo,  or  of  Sta.  Maria, 
composed  of  three  portals  corresponding 
with  the  three  naves ;  at  each  side  of 
the  ia^ade  are  two  towers  of  goodly 
size,  veiy  light  and  airy.  The  por- 
tals have  pointed  arches.  This  portion 
of  the  ia^e  was  fcnmerly  richly  At^ 
corated  with  statues,  eto^  which  dis- 
ai^eared  in  1794,  when  the  chapter, 
seised  by  the  contagious  spirit  of  inno- 
vation and  modemiidng;  removed  much 
of  what  constituted  the  beauty  of  this 
fi^ade,  and  introduced  a  paltry  Qreco- 
Roman  front  The  only  remnants  of  the 
former  sculpture  are  the  Ooronation  of 
the  Virgin,  on  the  portal  to  the  right ; 
the  Conceptioi^  on  tiie  left  one ;  and  at 
the  sides  of  the  central  portal  the  statues 
of  King  AlfonsoYL,  Ferdinand  IIL  (the 
Saint),  and  the  Bishops  Maniioa  and 


72 


BURGOS — CATHEDRAL. 


Arterio  of  Oca.     The  second  tier  or 
•tage  of  tbifllSft^e  is  formed  by  an  open- 
worked  balustrade  corridor,  with  turrets 
and  a  fine  rose-window  with  trefoils ; 
orer  this  portion  there  are  large  ogiyal 
windows  with  Gothic  tracery,  and  the 
third  and  last  stage  consists  of  two 
very  richly  ornamented  windows,  sorae- 
>what  like  aytmeesf,  and  divided  into 
different  compartments  by  pointed  mi- 
nute arches,  pillarets,  and  open-worked 
roses,  with  eight  statues  of  youths  with 
crowns.    This  stage  is  fiidshed  by  a 
balustrade  which  links  the  two  lateral 
towers,  and  whose  open-work  composes 
the  words,  'Pulchra  es  et  decora,'  in 
praise  of  theTirgin,  whoee  image^  hold- 
ing the  Infant  Deity  and  surrounded  by 
angels,  is  in  the  centre  and  under  a 
canopy.     On  the  capitals  on  the  sides 
are  the  woids  '  Pax  Tobis'  and  the  Vir- 
gin's monogram ;  on  the  left,   '  Ecoe 
Agnus  Dei,'  and  the  monogram  of  Christ 
The  statuesof  the  Saviour  and  of  St  John 
the  Baptist  are  here,  and  correspond 
with  the  inscription.  There  are  around 
the  lateral  towers,  at  different  stages, 
not  less  than  seventy-three  statues,  life- 
size,  representing  the  Evangelists^  doc- 
tors of  the  church,  and  saints.    The 
towers  themselves  are  800  ft.   high, 
and  rise   (separately  from  the   nudn 
body)  from  the  porch  only,  this  lower 
part  being  the  otily  one  ascribed  to  Bp. 
if  aurice.     The  higher  portions  of  these 
towers  are  the  work  of  Juan  de  Colonia, 
who  had  just  arrived  in  Spain,  and  who 
undertook  them    in  1442.     The  two 
towers  were  built  by  Bishops  Cartsgena 
and  AcuSa,  whose  shields  are  placed  at 
the  base  and  summit ;  they  are  admi- 
rable examples  of  the  Gothic  in  its 
purest  and  richest  forms,  and  the  effect 
produced  is  enhanced  by  the  warm, 
white,    marble-like,    and   transparent 
stone  of  Ontoria,  out  of  which  they 
are  cut  and  worked. 
ThtFutrtaAUa,  also  called  tUlaCo- 


roneria,  or  Zo§  Ap&stoUt,  is  one  of  the 
transept  ingresses  on  the  N.,  and  the 
pendant  to  that  of  El  SarmetUal,  It  in 
harmonious  in  composition  and  of  good 
style.  The  portal  is  ogival,  with  con- 
centric arches,  profusely  decorated  with 
e£Sgies  of  saints  and  fantastical  figures. 
In  the  centre  of  the  arch  is  a  Christ 
seated ;  on  His  right  the  Virgin,  and  on 
His  left  St  John,  both  lifting  up  their 
hands.to  Him  in  a  supplicant  manner  ; 
different  other  figures  representing  the 
good  and  evU  angels,  with  details,  are 
said  to  represent  the  struggle  of  good 
and  evil ;  and  man  praying  his  Maker 
to  intercede  on  his  behalf.  The  exe- 
cution is  very  rude.  Over  the  door 
is  exhibited  a  church  with  its  belf^, 
with  statues  on  the  sides:  those  on  the 
left  are  said  to  represent  St  Domingo  of 
Guzman  and  St  Francis  of  Assise  ask- 
ing the  King  of  Castile  to  grant 
to  them  the  papal  bulls  to  found 
the  orders  of  Dominicans  and  Francis- 
cans. The  upper  and  second  stage  of 
this  facade  consists  of  two  large  <>gival 
windows  of  early  Gothic.  In  the  third 
are  agimes  lights,  sixteen  statues 'in 
niches  and  otherwise.  This  door  is 
some  80  ft  above  the  level  of  the  nave. 
To  the  right  is  a  railed-in  chapel,  with 
an  effigy  of  our  Lady  of  Joyfhlness 
(Alegria)l    . 

ThtPuertadelaPelkgeriaiBnimXeA 
inanangleof  the  transept  towards  the  E. ; 
the  style  is  plateresque,  and  the  composi- 
tion of  the  whole,  including  elegance  of 
form  and  richness  of  details,  renders  this 
portal  a  magnificent  specimen  of  the 
Spanish  silversmith  work  as  applied  to 
the  revival  of  architecture,  whence  the 
plateresque  derived  its  name.  It  is  di- 
vided into  three  perpendicular  compart- 
ments. In  the  lateral  are  statues  of  Sant- 
iago^ St  John  the  Baptist,  etc  That  of 
the  centre  is  subdivided  into  two  parts, 
the  lower  occupied  by  the  door,  the 
sides  of  which  are  profusely  decorated 


BURGOS— OATHSDRAL. 


78 


with,  minttte  deteOi  and  stataettes,  and 
the  upper  portion  ie  filled  with  aculptare 
repraentiLg  the  martyrdom  of  88. 
John  the  Baptist  and  tiie  Erangelist 
Orer  this  is  a  Virgin  and  ChUd,  a 
bishop  kneelin^^  and  angels  playing  on 
flutes  and  other  instruments.  On  the 
sides  are  the  efllgies  of  88.  Peter  and 
Panl ;  a  comioe  runs  orer  this  sort  of 
reUMo,  and  is  crowned  with  the  escut- 
cheon of  Bishop  Fonseca,  who  defrayed 
the  expenses  of  this  beautiftil  portaL 
Its  name,  'pellegeria,'  is  derived  from 
a  street  that  once  existed  there,  and  was 
chiefly  inhabited  by  fellmongers. 

Fuerta  del  Sarmental,  also  called  iftt 
ArwobiapOf  is  divided  into  three  por- 
tions, and  ooiresponds  with  the  piMial 
of  tiie  ApottUs,  It  is  ascended  from 
the  transept  floor  by  a  staircase  of 
twenty-eight  steps ;  thedooris  decorated 
with  statues  of  Moses  and  Aaron,  and 
the  Apostles  8a  Peter  and  Paul,  etc 
In  the  tympanum  of  the  doorway  is  the 
Saviour  amid  the  four  Evangelists  in 
the  act  of  writing  the  Oospels,  with 
their  attributes ;  below  this  are  twelve 
Apostles.  Around  the  same  arch  are 
forty-five  images  of  seraphs,  cherubs, 
and  angels,  holding  candles,  censers, 
and  musical  instruments.  In  tiie  third 
stage  there  are  three  windows^  with 
pHlarets,  angels,  and  arches,  inter- 
twined in  the  style  of  the  Gothic  at  its 
third  and  latter  period.  The  rose- 
window  is  magnificent^  with  painted 
glass  of  14tii  century,  of  rich  hue  and 
good  execution.  There  are  about  sixty- 
four  statues  in  alL  It  is  called  Sarmen- 
tal from  the  name  (mrmSeiUoi,  vine- 
shoots)  of  a  wealthy  fiunily  who  gave 
up  the  houses  they  held  hereabouts  to 
thecathedraL 

There  are  some  Gothic  tombs  of  good 
style,  belonging  to  the  14th  century,  at 
the  sides  of  the  steps  leading  to  the 
Poerta  del  SaimentaL  They  contain 
the  bodies  of  prelates ; '  and  are  voy 


curious  for  their  sculpture,  and  the 
manner  and  spirit  of  the  scenes  repre- 
sented—the torments  of  Hades,  delights 
of  Heaven,  etci 

TnUrior, — ^The  form  is  a  Latin  cross. 
The  dimensicms  are : — Length,  800  ft. 
(Spanish),  frt>m  the  door  of  Sta.  Maria 
(Perdon)  to  Chapel  del  Ck>ndestable ; 
width,  218  ft  between  the  door  of  the 
Sarmental  to  that  of  La  Coroneria,  98  ft. 
being  the  avenge  breadth  throughout,  * 
and  198  ft  its  greatest  height  There 
are  three  naves,  which  are  cut  perpen- 
dicularly by  that  which  runs  paimllel 
to  the  principal  ia^ade.  The  central 
one  is  lofty,  liry,  and  bold  ;  the  lateral 
ones  are  lower  and  of  smaller  propor- 
tions. They  are  separated  by  twenty 
pUlars  of  octagonal  form,  strong  and 
massive,  yet  neither  heavy  nor  incon- 
gruous, but  rather  made  light,  slender, 
and  elegant  by  the  engaged  shafts.  The 
interior  generally  breathes  a  spirit  of 
solemnity,  serenity,  grandeur,  and  noble 
simpUdfy.  The  natural  whiteness  of 
the  stones  augmented  by  the  li^t 
caused  by  the  absence  of  painted  glass, 
gives  it  a  new  appearance,  as  if  the 
building  had  been  but  yesterday  com- 
pleted. The  stained  glass,  mostly  put 
up  in  the  14th  century,  was  very  beau- 
tifuL  It  was  destroyed  by  the  explo- 
siein  of  the  castle  in  1818.  The  inuw- 
mmtf  unworthy  of  the  rest^  is  abont  to 
be  removed  and  replaced  by  beautiful 
Carrara,  towards  which  expense  the 
Queen  of  Spain  has  recently  given  0000 
dollars  (about  £1 200).  The  minor  bay, 
which,  with  the  larger,  forms  the  cross, 
begins  at  tiie  Portal  del  Sarmental, 
and  ends  at  the  Puerta  Alta.  Ths 
LamJUm, — At  tiie  point  of  intersec- 
tion of  these  two  bays  is  placed  the 
emcira  or  XatUem,  the  gem  of  the 
whole  edifice,  which  was  called  so  by 
Charles  Y.,  who  added  that  it  ou^t  to 
be  placed  in  a  case,  and  not  be  seen  ss 
other  ordinary  w(ffk%  and  Philip  II. 


74 


BURGOS — CATHEDRAL. 


said  it  was  nther  the  woik  of  angels 
than  of  man.  The  lofty  dome,  or  oim- 
borio,  was  finished  on  December  4, 
1567,  and  replaced  the  prior  one  which 
fell  in  in  March  1689.  To  the  present 
one  all  the  Bnrgalese  oontribnted  with 
their  porse^  and  eepeoiallj  so  Card. 
Joan  Alyares  de  Toledo,  son  of  the 
Dnke  of  A1ts»  and  lus  mother,  whose 
escutcheons  are  displajed  with  that  of 
Charles  Y.  on  the  pillars  towards  the 
preshjrteiy.  It  was  designed  hy  Maese 
Philip  Yigami  (diat  De  BoigoSa,  and 
ezecnted  bj  him  and  Jnan  CastaBeda 
and  Jnan  de  Vallejo^  both  from  Bmgos. 
Philip  Ysgami  was  also  a  Bnrgalese. 

Ths  rmfuept.— Thetranseptisfcnmed 
hy  fonr  rerj  large  piers,  which  rise  like 
so  many  towers,  and  are  decorated  with 
a  profosion  of  soulptore  of  great  deli- 
cacy, taste,  end  ridmess.  These  may 
be  dirided  into  four  stages  ;  the  lower 
one  is  octagonal,  and  forms  tiie  pedestal 
or  basement,  and  is  decorated  with  six- 
teen meszo-relieTO  figures,  allegorical  of 
Prudence^  Justice^  Churity,  Prayer, 
etc,  and  Prophets.  In  the  second  the 
pillsrs  are  Anted,  and  bear  shields  of 
the  said  Arohbpi  Alyares  de  Toledo  and 
those  of  the  cathedral  In  the  third 
and  fourth  are  twenty  fbll-sized  statues 
of  doctors  of  the  church,  apostles,  etc 
From  the  cornice  spring  the  four  (oral 
or  main  arches  from  amid  bunches  of 
fruit  They  are  richly  decorated,  and 
bear  four  angeis  holding  scrolls  with 
date  of  building.  At  eadi  angle  there 
is  a  statue^  size  of  life,  supporting  the 
^  dmborio,  and  over  them  angels,  dbeUs, 
and  busts.  At  the  eight  angles  there 
are  seraphs,  waring  banners  bearing 
arms  of  the  cathednl,  round  which  is 
therersicle,  '  I  will  praise  Thee  in  Thy 
temple,  and  will  ^oriiy  Thy  name, 
Thou  whose  works  are  mirades.'  There 
are  numberless  statues  of  prophets^  pin- 
nacles^ etc,  under  the  galleries,  over 
the  windows^  etc     This  Isntem   is 


roofed  in  by  an  elegant  dome,  the  pat- 
tern of  which  is  a  star  ;  the  height  of 
this  from  the  parement  is  178  ft  The 
style  of  this  magnificent  work  is  Re- 
naissance, with  traces  of  the  Gothic  or- 
namentation of  the  third  period ;  the 
composition  and  execution  of  the  sculp- 
ture is  classic  and  pure.  There  is  in 
the  whole  a  splendour,  a  breadth,  a 
boldness  seldom  equalled  in  any  other 
woriL  The  exterior  is  rery  beiuitifiil 
also ;  the  stone  of  Ontoris,  out  of  which 
it  has  been  made,  enhances  the  effect 
ffigh  ^ttor.— The  style  of  the  retablo 
belongs  to  the  Rerival,  and  comprises 
the  three  orders.  It  is  full  of  reUeros, 
with  subjects  drawn  from  the  life  of 
the  Yirgin,  and  statues  of  apostles  and 
saints,  llie  elaborate  ssgrario  is  de- 
corated with  relieTos  representing  scenes 
from  the  Old  and  New  Testament  This 
retabl6  was  designed  and  executed  by 
Rodrigo  and  his  brother  Martin  dd 
Haya  for  40,000  ducats.  It  was  gilt 
and  edo/ado  by  Urbina  of  Madrid  and 
Martina  of  Yalladolid  for  1  l,000ducats, 
which  were  giren  by  Bishop  Yela,  1590. 
The  sculpture  wss  begun  in  1577,  and 
completed  in  1598,  and  is  generaUy  con- 
sidered good.  To  the  right  of  the  altar 
are  the  tombs  of  the  Infante  Don  Juan 
(son  of  Alfonso  the  Learned),  Count 
Don  Sancho,  and  his  wife  Beatrice  For 
this  reason  it  is  called  a  Capilla  Seal. 
In  the  Tratmtgrario  are  alto-relievos 
representing  the  Passion  of  Christ 
These  spirited  iroiy-like  compositions 
date  1640,  and  are  the  work  of  Juan  de 
Borgofia.  Between  the  pillars  of  the 
central  nave  are  six  rejss,  which  are 
fixed  on  Jasper  pedestals  and  greec 
Those  on  each  side  of  the  presbytery 
are  of  bronse  wrought  for  Archl^shop 
Nararretto  by  a  lay  monk  called  P. 
Martines.  They  are  all  reiy  beautifbL 
On  the  outside  of  the  above-mentioned 
pillars  of  the  central  nave  are  statues  of 
saints,  etc,  the  sise  of  life. 


BURGOS— CATHEDRAL. 


75 


The  Chair  is  ray  fine,  and  li  oom- 
poaed  of  108  walnut  ftalb  divided  into 
two  tiMt.  In  tht  Lower  Timr  the  anni» 
btok,  and  feat  are  oniamented  with 
delicate  box  aonlptiire.  Between  them 
are  pilasten  fall  of  monldings,  and  all 
literally  covered  with  flowen^  omamentB, 
human  figoree,  chimeras,  fkntastio  ani- 
mals and  foliage,  the  pasamanos  or 
balosters  being  meet  originally  deco- 
rated with  qniUnt  figures.  The  backs 
are  ornamented  with  reUero  medallions 
repifiiinting  scenes  from  the  life  of  the 
Virgin,  and  martyrdoms  of  different 
saints.  In  the  C^ipirTiar  there  are  also 
abundant  mouldings^  inlaid  and  figured. 
The  backs  and  respaldos  are  ornamented 
with  relieyos  from  the  New  Testament, 
crowned  with  a  bust  In  thistierruns 
a  series  of  altemately-plaoed  columns 
varied  in  sculpture  with  figures,  and 
terminated  by  a  sort  of  canopy.  In  the 
frt>nt  are  medallions  representing  scenes 
fitvm  the  Old  Testament,  and  in  the 
intermediate  spaces  are  statuettes  of 
apostles,  sib]is,  and  various  saints.  Ob- 
serve all  the  phases  of  the  Creation, 
the  legend  of  the  deluge^  the  poem  of 
Abraham,  and  the  story  of  Jacob.  On 
the  backs  of  this  upper  tier  are  sceiies 
from  the  New  Testament  On  those  of 
thelowertierarescenesalreadydescribed, 
and  statuettes  of  saints,  the  third  being 
81  Atendio  riding  the  devil,  who,  ac- 
aocording  to  legends  and  Father  Fey^ 
('  Cartas  Eruditas,'  etc,  voL  i,  pi  84), 
took  him  from  Jaen  to  Rome  in  one 
ni^t  The  stalls  are  of  different 
periods  and  artists ;  the  lower  is  the 
best  and  most  qlassical.  This  fine  Re- 
naissance Italian-like  work  dates  1497- 
1618.  The  choir  was  formerly  near 
the  high  altar,  and  Bishop  Ia  Fuerte 
Ampudia  had  it  removed  to  satiiiy  cer- 
tain ideas  of  precedence.  The  arohi- 
episoopal  stall  or  throne  is  a  copy  of 
that  of  Granada,  and  much  ornamented 
with  statuettes,  scenes  from  Scripture^ 


etc  Card.  Zapata,  a  great  benefiustor 
of  the  cathedral,  had  it  enclosed  and 
railed  in.  The  trascoro  or  reredos  was 
put  up  at  a  cost  of  10,000  ducats,  but 
as  it  did  not  please  those  artist-prelates 
of  the  timet,  it  was  pulled  down,  and 
the  present  one,  costing  a  similar  sum, 
substituted.  The  Splendid  r^it,  which 
cost  6600  ducats,  is  the  work  of  J.  B. 
Celma  (1608),  and  the  gift  of  Oaidinal 
Zapata,  whoee  canting  arms,  boots  and 
shoes,  are  placed  here 

The  trasearo  pillars  rise  upon  Jasper 
greesand  pedestals ;  there  are  two  statues 
of  8S.  Peter  and  Paul,  of  white  marble, 
brought  frt>m  Italy.  The  rielievo  repre- 
sents 8t  Paul  in  tiie  desert,  fed  miracu- 
lously with  loaves  brought  by  philan- 
thropic crows.  The  sculptor  was  a 
Carthusian  monk  called  Leiva,  ob.  1637. 
All  the  relievos,  columns,  statues  of 
saints,  and  altar-pieces,  were  the  work 
of  Bishop  Hanso  of  Zuniga,  who  gave 
16,000  ducats  towards  it.  Mid  the  sculp- 
tor was  one  Fray  Juan  de  Risi,  a  Bene- 
dictine monk. 

The  orgam  are  inferior  in  styles  but 
good  as  instruments ;  one  is  of  1706, 
the  other  of  1806.  Under  the  first 
UeUm,  placed  at  the  entrance  of  choir, 
is  the  jaoent  effigy  of  Bishop  Maurice, 
*Pontaex  et  Fundator,'  ob.  1340,  of 
whose  fSunily  little  is  known  else  than 
that  he  was  an  Kngiishman  by  birth, 
and  that  he  was  elected  Bishop  of  Bur- 
gos in  1811  The  Virgin  on  the  second 
Udem  is  by  Ancheta,  and  considered 
very  fine  (1678). 

OkaptU^Them  number  fifteen,  but 
differ  in  style  and  proportions,  as  they 
were  built  at  di£Eerent  periods,  and  are 
therefore  not  in  keeping  with  the  main 
portion  of  the  churdi.  Cki^  9f  Sla, 
TSwIs.— A  church  in  itself;  tawdry, 
thou^  much  admired  by  the  natives, 
whom  cotter  and  gaudiness  deli^t^  dT 
churriguresque  styles  founded  by  Ardi- 
bishop8amanif>goin  1784.    Tht  media 


76 


BUBOOS — CATHEDRAL. 


nam^  or  dome,  is  well  ezeeated,  the 
colours  tre  fresh  as  the  first  day.  On 
the  site  of  the  present  haptistery,  old 
and  onrions  in  its  way,  there  was  for- 
merly a  small  chapel  of  Santiago^  in 
whidi  Alfonso  XI.  instituted  the  order 
of  knighthood  of  La  Yanda  (the  hedge) 
in  1380,  of  which  the  Catholic  kings 
were  hrothers,  ctfradei  (companions). 
Ohapd  of  Sta.  Ana.'-Vot  interesting. 
See  round  the  uma  the  sculptured 
genealogical  tree  of  Christ,  h^nning 
with  Ah^aham  and  finishing  at  Christ 
Founded  hy  Bishop  Acnftai  1474,  of 
florid  Gothic  sty]&  The  statuary  here 
is  not  Tery  good.  There  is  a  Holy 
FamOy,  ascrihed  to  Andrea  del  Sarto  ; 
a  81  Philip  Neri  and  St  Francis,  hy 
M.  Cereso  ;  the  lew  others  here  are  in- 
different Bosarte  and  other  connoisseurs 
mention  with  enoomium  the  small  Go- 
tliic  altar  and  retahlo,  with  tomh  of 
Archdeacon  Fuente  Pdayo,  oh.  1492, 
enriched  with  sculptured  scenes  from 
the  New  Testament ;  the  other  sepul- 
chres, including  that  of  the  founder, 
are  not  Tery  fine,  and  date  15th  century. 
SteaUra{t[ttlrea»e)d4laPuerimAUtL — 
This  staircase  of  88  steps  was  rendered 
necessary  from  the  uneren  site  upon 
which  the  cathedral  stands.  It  is  a 
magnificent  specimen  of  its  kind,  and 
of  Renaissance  style,  not  exempt  horn 
Gothic  details.  The  plan  is  novel,  the 
work  most  elahorate,  and  the  «ffect 
charming.  It  is  ascrihed  to  Diego  Siloe, 
whose  handling  of  foliage,  dbildren, 
lion's  daws,  griffins,  draperies,  «tc., 
are,  says  Bosarte,  'not  he  mistaken 
wiUi  those  of  any  other  soulpter. '  The 
iron  halustrade  was  wrought  by Cristohal 
Andino.  The  sepulchral  altar  of  Ber- 
nardino Gutierres  is  remarkable  for  the 
exquisitely-sculptured  children  oyer  the 
ardi ;  the  artist's  name  is  not  known — 
someascribeittoTorrigiano,  M.  Angelo^s 
liraL  In  thesame  nave  is  the  very  old 
ehapel  of  Am  Nieoldt,     On  the  left 


entering  is  a  tomh^  with  standing  effigy 
of  Bishop  Villahos,  ob.  1 275 ;  as  bodies 
used  at  that  time  to  be  interred  standing 
and  embedded  in  walls,  these  tombs 
were  hence  called  'armarios.'  There 
are  some  portraits  here  of  Pope  Gregory 
XL,  Canon  of  Burgos  (1871),  and 
Alexander  VL,  archdeacon  of  the  same 
cathedral,  149S^  etc— Cnsar  Borgia,  and 
father  of  Lucrezia  Borgia.  Close  to  it 
is  a  fine  and  richly-sculptured  tomb  of 
the  learned  Archdeacon  Fernandez  Vil- 
legas  (1586),  who  transkted  Dante  iifto 
Spanish. 

OapiUa  dd  GmdatahU^A  eonni- 
(able,  eontUdabU  (from  which  amstahle), 
as  the  Latin  etymology  explains  it 
somewhat  (eonu$  tUUmli,  Ducange, 
etc),  was  '  an  officer,  so  called,  because, 
like  the  Lord  High  Constable  of  Eng- 
land, he  was  to  regulate  all  matters  of 
chiyalry — ^tilts,  tournaments,  and  feats 
of  arms— which  were  performed  on 
horseback.'  (Blackstone's  Com.  855.) 
He  also  oommanded  the  cavalry,  and 
bore  the  royal  standard  in  battle  This 
chapel  was  founded,  as  the  inscription 
relates,  '  by  D.  Pedro  Fernandez  de  Ye- 
lasoo.  Count  of  Haro,  of  the  House  of 
the  In&ntes  of  Lara,  five  times  Viceroy 
of  these  realms,  who  was  present  at  the 
wars  of  Portugal  and  Granada,  and  con- 
tributed to  the  Catholic  kings  obtaining 
these  kingdoms,  etc'  The  Duke  of 
Fries  is  the  present  heir  to  this  founder, 
and  is  the  patron  and  possessor  of  the 
chapeL  It  is  the  laigest  and  most 
beautifril  in  the  cathedral  It  was 
built  by  Juan  de  Colonia,  and  parts, 
though  reiy  few,  of  his  works  are  as 
German  as  his  name  The  style  is  the 
Gothic  florid  (with  somewhat  of  the 
Saracenic  ornament)  of  the  15th  century, 
and  the  ground-plan  is  octagonal,  with 
a  bold  dmborio  and  large  ogiral  win- 
dows. The  entrance  is  magnificent,  and 
formed  by  a  semicircular  arch  fiill  of 
details,  and  of  that  peculiar  and  intri- 


BUB008. 


77 


oate  ornament  otUed  cntteria  (crest- 
work  or  niche- work);  aboTe  it  are  sere- 
ral  charming  clostert  of  pinnadea,  with 
atatnettea  and  htfger  anljects  under  moet 
richlj-worked  canopiea,  looking  like 
piled-np  lace  of  point  d*Angleterre. 
Below  thii  portion  of  the  arch  there  are 
nomberleaa  piilareta,  figures,  and  child- 
ren supporting  cornices;  then  come 
other  statuettes  placed  at  the  side  of 
children  with  crowns  of  laurel ;  in  the 
centre  of  one  of  the  latter  is  a  sun  and 
Jesus*  name;  in  theotiier,  a  cross.  Orer 
this  the  Annunciation  of  the  Viigin, 
81  Gabriel  on  one  side  and  tiie  Virgin 
on  the  other.  The  railing;  orr^  is  one 
of  the  finest  specimens  of  Renaissance 
extant,  though  age  and  neglect  have 
done  much  to  efface  its  primaiy  splen- 
dour and  tamidi  the  colouring,  etc  It 
was  the  masterwork  of  Cristobal  Andino, 
and  was  wrought  in  1628.  It  is  com- 
posed of  two  bodies  and  an  attic, 
crowned  by  an  asp  or  cross  of  San 
Andres.  Obsenre  eTerything  here: — 
The  two  kneeling  figures  holding  an 
escutcheon;  the  heads  of  Jesus  and 
Maiy ;  and  the  inscription  on  the  other 
side  of  them — ^the  '  ^o  sum  Alpha  et 
Omega,'  and  statue  of  the  Saviour; 
the  four-sided  columns,  then  the  ba- 
lustnMied  pillars  higher  up.  The  lock 
is  so  contrived  that  nobodjr  can  open 
the  r^a  who  does  not  possess  the 
secret  of  pulling  back  a  certain  spring 
ingeniously  concealed.  The  principal 
ntabio  is  of  the  Bevival,  with  traces  of 
the  grutefto,  and  some  remnants  of 
the  primitive  Gothic  one,  which  was 
removed  and  replaced  bj  the  present 
one.  It  forms  two  stagea ;  the  first  is 
formed  by  the  Purification  and  figures 
of  the  Virgin,  St  Joseph,  Infant  Deity, 
etc,  and  a  girl  carrying  doves  in  a 
basket  On  the  cornice  and  on  one 
side  is  a  statue  representing  the  Law 
of  *Gracia'  (Holy  Grace),  personified  by 
a  young  woman  with  eyes  lifted  up  to 


heaven ;  as  a  pendant,  is  another  of  the 
Written  Law,  represented  by  an  aged 
nmn  holding  a  book.  The  upper  por- 
tion is  filled  by  relievos  of  scenes  from 
the  New  Testament  Over  it  all  are  a 
small  shell  and  a  skull.  There  are  a 
few  other  figures  of  saints,  ascribed  by 
some  to  Becerra,  and  by  others  to  JunL 
There  are  four  large  stone  escutcheons 
with  arms  of  the  Velasoos  on  the  walla^ 
supported  by  wild  men  and  women. 
There  are  fourteen  windows  in  the  chapel, 
with  painted  glass,  representing  scenes 
from  Passion  and  arms  of  founders.  The 
statues  of  St  Austin  and  St  Jerome 
close  to  the  pillars  are  good,  but  in- 
ferior to  the  same  latter  saint  placed  in 
a  ratable  of  a  small  chapel  on  the  left 
It  is  by  Becerra,  one  of  Spain's  few  and 
great  sculptors.  The  Gothic  retablo 
opposite  is  very  ancient  Close  to  the 
steps  of  the  high  altar  are  the  magnifi- 
cent tombs  of  the  founders,  all  of  Jasper 
except  the  efiHgies,  which  are  of  Ou- 
rara  marble  They  were  sculptured  in 
Italy  in  1540.  The  effigy  of  the  iDon- 
stable,  who  died  in  1492  when  he  was 
Viceroy  of  Castile,  etc.,  is  lying  armed 
eap^'pU,  full  length,  and  the  muscles 
of  his  hands,  elaborate  details  of  lus 
mailed  armour,  cushion,  etc,  are  won- 
derful. There  is  a  huge  block  of  po- 
lished jasper  dose  to  it,  now  without 
object,  and  weighing  about  200  cwt 
The  effigy  of  the  constable's  wife,  '  La 
muy  ilustre  Seftora  DoAa  Menda  de 
Mendoza,  Condesa  de  Haro '  (ob.  1600, 
nt  79),  is  also  full  length,  and  lying 
on  richly-embroidered  cushions,  with 
elaborately-embroidered  gloves,  and  a 
lapdog  at  her  feet,  emblem  of  fidelity. 
The  vault  is  under  these  tomba.  In  the 
jomMy  is  the  picture  of  a  Magdalen, 
ascribed  to  Loonardo  da  Vind ;  the 
colouring  is  beautiful  Beneath  it  is 
the  little  portable  ivory  altar,  which  the 
constable  carried  about  with  him  in  his 
campaigns ;  the  other  pictures  and  por- 


78 


BURGOS— CATHBDRAL. 


tnits  19  inferior.  Aak  for  a  fine  work 
of  Arfe's,  a  croes ;  and  tereral  relice, 
for  seeing  which  apply  to  the  prirate 
capiUaries  of  this  chapeL  (Permission 
seldom  granted.) 

Th$  Chapel  o/SanHago  is  the  laigest 
^in  the  cathedral,  and  senres  ss  the 
porith  choroh.  The  r^'a,  which  rests 
on  jasper  pedestals,  is  crowned  bj  a 
statue  of  the  patron  of  Spain.  There  ii 
a  fine  tomb  of  J.  0.  de  Velasoo,  Abbot 
of  San  Quirce,  ob.  1567 ;  it  is  placed  on 
the  left  on  entering.  There  is  also  a 
tomb  of.  the  Lesmee,  whose  father, 
Pedro  de  Astndillo,  founded  the  cele- 
brated chapel  of  the  Magi  Kings  in  the 
cathedral  of  Cologne.  In  the  high 
altar  there  is  the  apoeUe  on  horseback. 
In  the  centre  of  the  chapel  lies  Bishop 
Juan  de  Villacrecee,  ob.  1463,  in  an 
alabaster  tomb ;  cloee  to  it  a  Jasper  one 
of  the  Regidor  of  Butgos,  Melgooa,  ob. 
1528,  and  his  wife.  There  are  some  other 
tombs,  of  no  great  merit  either  in  the 
chapel  or  its  sacristy ;  obsenre,  never- 
theless, Bishop  Oabeza  de  Vaca's  plater- 
esque  tomb,  1512,  and  that  of  his 
brother  Don  Pedro  (literally  cow's  head, 
sn  illustrious  family  in  Spain — Front 
de  Bosuf).  The  fire  altars  here  are  in- 
different 

SacridiaNueva, — Formerly  composed 
of  two  chapels.  There  are  some  old 
mirrors  and  indifferent  pictures  ascribed 
to  Giordano  (Natirity  of  Christ),  a 
Christ  and  Ecce  Homo  to  Murillo,  and 
in  the  ante-Testry  a  St  Francis,  as- 
scribed  to  Mateo  Cerexo— all  doubtful. 
The  ci^oneria,  or  chest  of  drawers  to 
hold  the  church  and  priest's  ornaments, 
etc.,  are  finely  canred  ;  all  the  rest  is 
churrigueresque  and  tawdry.  There  are 
some  curious  objects  :  a  jasper  table,  a 
rich  specimen  of  braseros,  a  fine  proces- 
sional cross,  etc. 

Chapel  of  San  Enrique. — Founded  by 
Archbp.  Peralta,  at  the  cost  of  100,000 
ducats.  Obsenre  the  magnificent  kneel- 


ing eiBgy  and  tomb  of  the  founder,  ob. 
1679 ;  the  bronze  lectern  is  good  ;  the 
paTcment  and  steps  are  of  alabaster;  the 
stalls  are  inlaid.  In  the  sacristy  is  a 
very  curious  table,  and  a  Dolorosa  and 
Christ  ascribed  to  Cerezo. 

Chapel  of  San  Juan  de  Sahagun, — 
Here  is  the  much-yenerated  Yiigin  de 
Oca.  Here  is  the  tomb  also  of  the 
Beato  Lesroes,  'h\jo  de  Buigos,  abo- 
gado  del  dolor  de  ri&ones,'  who  is  be- 
lieved to  cure  pains  in  the  kidneys,  and 
said  to  hare  earned  this  privilege  by 
the  patience  with  which  he  bore  the 
same  complaint,  which  had  been  caused 
by  constantly  bending  when  he  distri- 
buted com  to  the  poor.  See  a  picture 
of  a  Christ  de  la  Agonia,  by  Theoto- 
copuli,  il  Qrecco^  whose  signature  is 
placed  at  the  foot  of  the  cross.  In  its 
sacristy  is  the  ground-plan  of  the  cathe- 
draL  The  ^elieario  was  formeriy  a 
chapel  of  St  Peter,  and  abounds  in  the 
usual  gifts  of  kings  and  great  personages, 
consisting  of  legs,  toes,  arms,  jaws, 
teeth,  and  other  parts  of  the  bodies  of 
saints ;  here  is  kept  the  image  of  the 
Virgin  de  Oca,  who  nodded  assent  to  a 
devoutselkorita  who  made  herawitnessto 
her  faithless  lover's  promise  of  marriage. 

Chapel  of  la  iV«S0iitocum.— Spacious; 
founded  by  Canon  Lerma  in  1519. 
Over  the  modem  high  altar  is  a  Virgin; 
ascribed  by  Pons  and  other  good  con- 
noissuers  to  Michael  Angelo;  others  say 
it  is  rather  by  Sebastian  del  Piombo, 
but  all  concur  in  considering  it  very 
beautifully  executed  and  composed.  It 
was  sent  here  by  a  wealthy  Florentine, 
Mozzi  A  fine  white  marble  tomb  of 
Canon  Jacobo  de  BUbao,  who,  a  good 
son,  and  therefore  a  righteous  man, 
erected  a  mausoleum  to  his  '  matri  di- 
lect«'  and  himself  with  the  Christian 
and  simple  epitaph :  '  Because  I  have 
hoped  in  thee,  0  Lord,and  have  entrusted 
to  Thee  my  soul. '  Tomb  of  the  founder, 
with  effigy,  said  to  be  a  portrait 


BURGOa 


79 


Cki^  cfSamOiimo  OriMo  d4  la  Ago- 
nkL — H«re  it  kept  the  celebrated  and 
mach-Tenented  Cfritlo  d$  Burgot,  which 
was,  according  to  Flores,  caired  by  Nice- 
demna,  ahortlj  after  he^  with  Joeeph 
of  Arimathea,  buried  onr  Lord.  It  waa 
found  inaide  a  box  floating  in  the  tea, 
and  after  many  eventfnl  joumeya  and 
miahapa,  waa  finally  removed  to  thia 
cathedral  from  the  oonrent  of  8t  Agna- 
tine  in  1886.  It  certainly  ii  of  Twry 
early  date,  and  moat  admirably  model- 
led ;  the  anatomy  perfect,  a  deep  ez- 
preadon  of  pain ;  the  hair,  beard,  eye- 
lashea,  thoma,  are  all  real  To  thia 
image  are  ascribed  nnmberleae  miraclea, 
and  it  ii  aaid  to  sweat  on  Fridaya,  and 
eren  to  bleed  now  and  then.  'Rien 
n'est  pins  lugubre,  'says  a  French  writer, 
'et  pins  inqni^tant  i  voir  que  oe  long 
£uit6me  crucifix  arec  son  fanx  air  de  rie 
et  son  immobility  morte.'  The  image 
ii  girt  with  a  richly  embroidered  crino- 
line. The  pictnrea  are  indifferent ;  the 
Descent  from  the  Croaa  is  ascribed  to 
Ribera  (Spagnoletto).  The  €loek$  of 
the  cathediral  are  not  rery  old ;  they  are 
furnished  with  small  figures  that  come 
out  and  strike  the  hour,  and  slide  in 
again,  etc. 

The  (TZoiiCtfrt  areintereating;  and  date 
middle  of  14th  century.  They  are  spa- 
cious, and  occupy  a  quadrangle,  each 
gallery  being  of  89  ft  long  ^  22  ft 
broad.  The  walls  from  the  outside  are 
pierced  with  double  arches  pointed  in  the 
shape  of  agimeoea'(Moori8h  windows), 
subdirided  by  smaller  onea,  and  richly 
ornamented  with  lancet-work,  trefoil, 
pillarets,  roses,  etc.  The  principal  en- 
trance is  of  an  early  date,  and  the  sculp- 
ture and  details  abundant  and  curioua. 
On  the  doors  is  a  mezzo-reliero  repre- 
senting Christ's  entrance  into  Jerusa- 
lem, and  other  biblical  and  allegorical 
scenes  and  statues  of  saints,  the  ETan- 
geliatfl^  etc  ;  these  doors  were  giyen  by 
Bishop  Aoufia.    Bound  the  arch  are  two 


rows  of  statues,  and  in  the  keystone 
angels  holding  arrows.  In  the  oentre 
ii  represented  the  Baptism  in  the  Jor- 
dan. A  peculiarity  HiatingnlAing  this 
from  other  similar  scenes  is  that  our 
Lord  ii  seated  and  doea  not  stand.  It 
ii  thought  the  Gothic  sculptor  resorted 
to  this  innoTatbn  to  avoid  the  some- 
what irrererent  representation  of  the 
act  by  imflismofs  and  not  hyabhUUm; 
the  Umbs  of  the  SaTiour  are  actually 
immersed,  to  be  true  to  tradition,  and 
yet  tiie  figure  ii  seated  with  dignity  and 
eaae.  Four  statues  of  Darid,  Isaiah, 
St  Gabriel,  and  the  Virgin,  decorate 
this  splendid  door.  There  is  also  a 
head  of  St  Francis  of  Assia,  aaid  to  be 
an  extempore  portrait  by  the  sculptor, 
taken  at  the  moment  the  saint  was 
passing  by.  It  is  probable  that  aU  the 
flgurea  on  this  door  were  formerly 
painted. 

In  the  interior  the  ogirea  of  the  win- 
dows are  rery  pure  in  shape,  and  deco- 
rated profusely  with  foliage,  and  in  the 
centre  with  statuea  of  saints  and  Chris- 
tian heroes,  of  good  and  correct  Gothic 
style.  There  are,  beaidea,  a  great  num- 
ber of  tomba  of  diflerent  periods  and 
styles,  some  with  good  sculptures. 
There  are  fire  chapels  alsa  On  enter- 
ing^ to  the  ri^t,  is  the  tomb  of  Canon 
Aguilar,  with  his  effigy  in  ssoerdotal 
robes,  a  dog  at  his  feet,  and  a  dosed 
book  in  his  hands;  the  date  1482.  The 
tomb  of  Canon  Gadea,  chaplain  of  the 
Catholic  kings,  and  before  of  Don  En* 
rique^  ob.  1488.  The  epit^^  ends, 
'  Virtus  socia  rita  fuit  Gloria  mortis 
cornea.'  The  dress  of  a  knight  at  one 
aide  of  the  tomb,  railed  in,  is  curious ; 
on  the  back  ii  a  Christ  seated,  with  fig- 
ures and  angels.  The  pictures  are  in- 
different in  the  cliapel  de  los  Reyes. 
Proceeding  on,  is  the  tomb  of  Sepul- 
Tcda,  chaplain  of  the  kings  Don  Juan 
and  Don  Enrique  of  Castile.  Obserrt 
especially  the  tomb  of  Canon  Santandor, 


80 


BURGOS — OATHKDRAL. 


ob.  1528 — a  magnificent  work,  full  of 
details  delicate  and  chaate.  See  the 
channing;  yonthful,  loving  Virgin  and 
Child,  forming  a  relievo  in  the  centre 
of  the  arch,  and  carved  oni  of  the  bean- 
tifnl  white  Ontoria  atone ;  the  attitnde 
of  the  head,  breathing  maternal  love, 
and  the  eestacy  at  being  choeen  the  mo- 
tbAr  of  Ood,  remind  one  somewhatof  that 
in  Raphael's  'Yergine  della  Seggiola.' 
There  is  a  fireedom,  a  boldness  of  com- 
position and  execution  seldom  attempt- 
ed bj  artists  of  those  times.  She  holds 
with  her  right  hand  a  book  opened,  with 
her  left  the  Infant,  of  exquisite  model- 
ling. There  are  escutcheons  with  fleurs- 
de-ljs,  etc. 

In  the  third  gallery  is  a  door  leading 
up  to  the  archives,  which  contain  very 
early  and  curious  documents  concerning 
the  cathedral  In  a  chapel  lies  the 
tomb  of  Juan  CuchiUer.  He  was  ser- 
vant, or  rather  a  knight  trenchant  (ch- 
chiUer,  euehiUo)  to  Henry  III.  el  Enfer- 
mo,  and  aniro  aois  amongst  his  kind, 
who  sold  his  coat  to  buy  d$  eenar  for 
his  master.  Happy  times  t  for  now  it 
is  rather  roasten  who  have  finally  to 
sell  their  coats  to  procure  suppers  for 
their  flunkeys.  The  eflSgy  is  of  alabas- 
ter ;  a  dog,  the  emblem  of  fidelity,  lies 
at  his  feet  On  the  wall  is  affixed  a 
heavy  dark-looking  trunk,  called  £1 
cofre  del  Cid.  This  is  supposed  to  be 
one  of  the  two  trunks  which  he  fiUed 
with  sand  and  left  as  security  to  the 
Burgslese  Jews,  Rachel  and  Yida%  for 
a  loan  of  000  marks,  assuring  them  that 
they  contained  all  his  Jewels  and  gold, 
but  that  they  were  not  to  open  them 
until  his  return.  There  is  no  proof  or 
evidence  in  the  '  Romancero,'  '  Cr<Snica 
Rimada,'  etc,  of  hit  having  ever  repaid 
either  the  principal  or  interest  But 
Mio  Cid  was  then  in  want  of  money  for 
the  conquest  of  Valencia,  and  this  hero, 
who  '  fought  for  his  bread,'  was  as  un- 
scrupulous  as  heroes  have  always  been. 


and  always  will  be.  He,  a  Christian 
knight,  headed  infidel  armies  sgainst 
lus  fellow-Christians;  he,  a  CastOian 
lord,  rebelled  and  fought  against  his 
king;  he  betrayed  not  only  these 
money-lenden,  thus  out-Jewing  the 
Jews  (for  to  do  so  was  a  merit  in  those 
times),  but  Alfonso,*  the  Moorish  kings, 
his  allies,  everybody,  and  practised  biit 
too  well  the  Al-harbo  Khod'aton  of 
Mahomet  (Arabic^,  to  wage  war  is  to 
betray).  His  favourite  author,  Mohal- 
lab,  was  styled  *The  liar;'  but  then 
he  knew  also  the  Prophet's  words: 
'There  are  three  sorts  of  lies  which  will 
not  be  taken  into  account  at  the  Last 
Judgment : — 1st,  that  which  is  concoct- 
ed with  an  object  to  reconcile  two  per- 
sons who  have  quarrelled ;  2dly,  -that 
which  a  husband  tells  when  he  promises 
anything  to  his  wife;  and,  ddly,  a 
chieftain's  word  in  time  of  ¥rar.'  Tliis 
old  trunk  is  undoubtedly,  says  a  French 
writer,  *  La  doyenne  des  malles  du 
monde,'  and  contained  some  parchments 
till  very  recently. 

Sola  Capitular  contains  some  paint- 
ings ascribed  to  Giordano,  and  a  'St 
John  the  Evangelist,'  also  ascribed  to 
Murillo.  The  walls  on  great  holidays 
are  hung  with  fine  old  tapestry.  The 
roof  forms  a  fine  artcsonodo :  around 
the  cornice  run  versicles  from  the  Sd 
chap,  of  the  Book  of  Proverbs.  In  the 
Sacridia  Ku^a  are  some  fine  Venetian 
mirrors  and  two  coral  branches.  An 
admirably  carved  cajoneria  (presses),  to 
keep  the  beautifully  embroidered  tcr- 
nos,  carved  by  a  Benedictine  monk 
called  Pedro  Martinez.  There  are  128 
portraits  of  the  bishops  and  archbishops 
of  Burgos,  llie  eighth  arcade  of  the 
fourth  gallery  was  supposed  to  have 
contained  the  former  Royal  Chapel, 
where  Ferdinand  was  married  to  Beat- 
rice by  Maurice,  the  English  Bishop  of 
Burgos,  November  SOth,  1219.  Ob- 
serve their  two  former   statues,  and 


BUBOO& 


81 


oppoate  fbor  ttituatlM  laptfiinting 
tikk  king't  «b%  aad  ia  the  third  an^e 
of  the  ekwier  e  etatnette  d  Bi^»p 
Mawice,  elao  St  Ferdinend,  end  two 
otiMrfigureiL  There  are  other  doistert 
heneath,  with  good  acnlptiirea  and  an 
infisitj  of  tomtia,  atatnea,  aad  epit^iha 
of  13th  and  14th  eentoriea. 

The  eathednd  oontaina  7  ataireaaea, 
lis  windows  86  railings,  144  piotnrea, 
npwarda  of  60  tomba  (worked  out  and 
raiaed  abore  the  ground),  7  oig*tt%  9 
haptiainal  fonta,  9  chotr%  and  9  lee- 
tema,  10  copfwannali,  44  altan^  with 
nearly  100  fnU-length  atatoeaL  On  en- 
tering the  cathednl,  Sta.  Teda  ia  the 
firat  diapel  on  the  r^t,  and  j^e  Chapel  I 
del  Criato  that  on  the  left  Church 
opened  from  6  A.1L  to  8  F.x.  High 
maap  with  oigan  mnaio  at  9.80  fjl  on 
Sondaja  and  holidaya;  organa  good. 
To  aee  jewela,  apply  to  oapeUan  mayor. 
To  be  aeen  only  after  8.80  p.m.  To 
Tisit  the  arduTea,  make  copies  of  pic- 
torea,  and  the  like,  apply  to  the  oabildo. 

Ohorohea. — SUl  Agueda  or  Gadea, 
deaerrea  a  riait,  as  an  hiatorical  monu- 
ment aaaodated  with  the  poetic  and 
chiTalrona  legend  of  the  Cid.  It  was 
one  of  the  igloias  jnraderaa— that  is^  of 
poigation  by  adjuration.  It  waa  there- 
fore in  thia  chapel  that  Alfonao  Y  L  waa 
obliged,  in  the  preaence  of  the  Cid,  to 
awear  that  he  had  no  part  in  the  mur- 
der of  his  brother  Don  Sancho  at  the 
ai^  of  Zamora.  According  to  authen- 
tic history— if  such  there  be— the  king 
swore  on  the  cerrojo,  or  a  lock,  which 
waa  the  touchatone  of  hia  reradty; 
other  authors  say  on  the  Qoapela. 

Accofdiag  to  Um  '  RooMaccro,'  k  nnt  tlras : 
'  la  Sta.  Afveda,  at  Bmioa,  wbera  kaiclits  ara 
wont  to  take  the  oaths,  the  oath  of  AMoimo 
wat  abo  takea  after  hit  brother't  dttth.  The 
fallaac  Gd,  who  heM  a  crudfU.  aHHit  hia 
•wear  the  tnrth  opoo  an  tnm  lock,  a  cnm- 
bow,  aad  the  Goepieli.  The  words  ha  ipeaks 
are  «o  awfbl  that  the  kii«  ehudden  at  them. 
'  V  th«o  ihookbt  mi  tpeak  the  tmth  oo 


part  ia  the 


of  thy 


aad  act  with  gih 
May  thoae  that  do  ea  wei 
-       .  theyweai 
cloaks  aad  aet  the  Cowtray  cfeaki,  or 
of  cnried  tSk:  caa^ai  shorts,  aB« 

■ay  they  anke  ase  of  ropo'^iidles,  aad 
ef  leathern  oaes  well  taaa^;  aMytheykiB 
thea  ia  the  ieUs,  aadaetiaadtyaravO- 
Isge:  aad  sMiy  they  tear  thy  heart  all  paatiat 
liesa  thy  breasti*  The  oath  was  sa  awfid 
that  the  hkc  did  aot^sataie  to  take  it  Bm 
a  kaight,  a  fnead  of  the  ka«,  said  wsa  hua : 
'Swear,  aad  l(Mr  aanglM,  brave  kinf,  lor 
aerer  was  a  Idag  peijunoas  aor  a  pope  ex- 
foaiwinicatad.*  Hie  gallaat  kii«  then  took 
the  oath,  aad  swora  ha  had  had  ao  head  ia 
his  brathert  •■■ssiastina ;  bat  evea  thw  he 
fined  with  ai««r  aad  iadigaatioa:  'Thoa 
^^  O  Od,  to  audta  sMitaka  that  oath, 
for  later  thoa  wilt  have  to  kiss  aiy  hand.' 
'  To  kiss  a  Idag 's  head  is  no  hoaoor  to  aie. 
'  Get  thee  heace  lioss  this  my  kad,  thea  Od, 
Ciba  kaitht,  aad  ooam  aot  back  tin  a  year  has 


(t 


The  church  ia  uninteresting  eom- 
poaed  of  a  sin^e  ogiTal  nave  of  a  pure 
styles  and  a  fine  Reriyal  tomb.  The 
famoua  lock  of  the  Cid  waa  affixed  up 
out  of  reaoh  by  Bishop  Don  Paaoual  de 
la  Fuente. 

Sam  JMston.— Gothic  aS80.1860) ; 
formerly  a  oonTent  The  portico  ia  oom- 
poaed  of  three  stages  of  ogires  with 
figures  canppied,  and  of  good  effect 
T^e  interior  Sa  formed  of  three  spacious 
naTes.  The  lofty  arches  are  orna- 
mented with  the  Byxantine  pattern 
called  OreeoM  by  the  Spaniardai  The 
retabloa  are  modem ;  a  platereaque 
tomb  on  the  left  of  the  reatiy  door; 
picturea  inferior.  Stm  Pahlo  (1415-85, 
now  oaTalry  barracks)  contains  some 
fine  ReriTal  tombi^  of  the  middle  of 
16th  century,  and  a  good  cloister.  In 
San  Nieoia$  there  is  a  stone  rstablo 
richly  carred,  and  tomba  of  tha  15th 
and  beginning  of  18th  centuiy. 


82 


BURGOS — FUBLIO  SUILDINGtt. 


Stm  OH  (14th  century).— Some  fine 
tpeciment  of  Gothic  sepolchres ;  a  rtarj 
intereetinK  tnd  elegant  iron  pnlpit  and 
fine  retabloe  in  chapels  N.  and  S.  of 
choir. 

SireeU.  ~^Tht  principal  street  of  Bar- 
gos  ii  the  Espolon,  which  also  forms  a 
promenade  along  the  hanks  of  the  rirer. 
The  Plaza  Mayor  is  a  large  square,  de- 
signed hy  Yentnra  Bodrignes,  the  last 
great  (?)  architect  of  Spi^i  (1788).  In 
the  centre  is  a  Tery  mediocre  hronze 
statae  of  Charles  III. ;  the  fiishionahle 
harrio  in  former  days  was  in  and  about 
the  Calle  Alta.  llie  older  streets  are 
Calle  San  Lorenso,  Arellanos,  and  San 
Joan ;  the  widest  street  ii  del  Hnerto 
del  Bey.  The  streets,  iU-paved  and 
prosy  for  one's  feet  as  they  are,  abound, 
many  of  them,  with  associations  of  the 
erer-poetio  past,  and  their  names  are 
well  known  to  the  reader  of  Castillan 
history— Calle  de  Lain  Cairo,  Feman 
Gonzales,  Cid,  Diego  Porceloa^  Nnlko 
Basnra,  etc 

The  Town  HaU  is  a  modem  building; 
containing  some  rery  middling  modem 
portraits,  said  to  be  likenesses  of  Bur- 
galeae  worthies.  The  gaU»  are  most 
picturesque;  especially  the  Arco  de 
Santa  Ifaria,  which  is  said  to  hare 
been  erected  by  the  Bnrgalese  on  the 
occasion  of  the  risit  of  Charles  V.,  and 
to  reconcile  him  to  them  after  the  part 
,  they  had  taken  in  the  Comnnero  more- 
ment.  It  was  decorated  with  the  statues 
of  the  populsr  heroes  of  the  city,  the 
Cid,  Lain  Cairo,  Feman  Gonzalez,  etc., 
and  that  of  the  Oceiarwas  placed  in  the 
centre.  Grer  the  arch,  which  was  origi- 
nally painted  and  gOt,  is  the  imsge  of 
the  Yiigin,  to  whom  it  was  ostensibly 
dedicated.  The  gate  is  ornamented  with 
turrets  and  battlements,  and,  with  the 
circular  (cubo)  bastions  of  tiie  former 
walls  of  this  once  mighty  capital,  forms 
a  rery  effectire  and  interesting  spot  1 1 
was  erected  on  the  site  of  the  Torre  de 


Santa  Maria,  from  which  Don  Pedro  e\ 
JusHdero  hurled  the  JusUeia  Mayor 
Gard  Laso  de  La  Vega.  The  rooms 
placed  orer  the  arch  were  the  former 
Town  Hall  of  the  city ;  these  hare  two 
horseshoe  doors  with  stucco  patterns. 
The  Areo  d4  Feman  OonzaUz  was 
erected  to  the  memory  of  that  hero 
by  Philip  IL  It  is  of  Doric  style,  and 
effectire.  aoee  by  in  the  Calle  Alta 
was  the  tolar,  or  mansion  of  the  Oid, 
on  tiie  site  of  which  Charles  III.  erected 
(1784)  the  present  paltiy  and  insignifi. 
cant  monument  On  the  obelisks  are 
the  shields  of  Buigos  and  of  the  Cid. 

The  Oid  was  bom  here  in  1026,  was 
baptized  in  the  Church  of  San  Martin, 
now  no  longer  extant,  and  died  at 
Yalenda  in  1099.  His  body  was  re- 
mored  from  the  latter  town  to  the 
monastery  of  CardefSa,  near  Burgos, 
whence  once  more  it  was  conreyed  to 
the  Town  Hall.  The  bones  of  the  hero 
and  those  of  his  faithful  and  heroic 
Jimena  are  shown  to  risitors  on  obtain- 
ing the  rerbal  permioo  of  the  secretary 
of  the  Ayuntamiento.  The  bones  are 
kept  in  a  common  walnut  urn,  placed 
in  a  room  fitted  up  as  a  chapeL 

The  CoMtle  of  Buiigos  is  interesting  in 
an. historical  point  of  riew.  It  was  the 
eariy  palace  of  the  Counts  of  Castile. 
In  959,  Count  Feman  Gonzalez  brought 
Garcia,  King  of  Nararre,  a  prisoner  here, 
and  confined  him  for  thirteen  months. 
The  bridal  of  the  Cid  took  place  within 
it  Alfonso  YI.  of  Leon  was  taken  here 
after  he  was  made  a  prisoner  by  the  Cid 
in  the  Church  of  Carrion.  Here  St 
Ferdinand  receired  St  Casilda,  daugh- 
ter of  the  Moorish  King  of  Toledo, 
who  was  conrerted  to  Christianity.  It 
was  the  birthplace  of  Pedro  the  Crael : 
Don  Fadrique,  son  of  Enrique  IL  and 
the  first  Spanish  duke,  was  imprisoned 
here;  and  here  again  Edward  I.  of 
England  espoused  Eleanor  of  OsstQe. 
It  was  in  those  times  a  msgnifloent 


BUBGOS— CASIUL 


83 


pAlaee,  m  well  m  a  itroBg  fcwtiMi, 
which  WM  oooadflimblj  ftrengthened 
in  the  ■nofwding  leigBi.     The  rtate- 
roomi  were  deetrojed  bj  a  fire  which 
h^pened  Id    1736.     In  Nor.   1808, 
oo  Napoleon's  Tietofione  march  from 
Yitoria  to  Madrid,  at  the  head  of  the 
•eeood  corps   d'ann^  under   Sonlt, 
Bvgos  was  defended  hj  Oonnt  BelTo- 
der,  at  the  head  of  18,000  men.    Las- 
saUie,  after  a  reeonnoissanoe,  retired  to 
his  qnarters,  porsoed  hjhalf  theSpanish 
army,  whidi  was  at  GamonaL     The 
Fmch   horsemen    then   tamed  sod- 
dsnljnpon  the  assailants,  defeated  these 
and  the  rest,  and  entered  the  town 
ptte-mllei     It  then  became  the  head 
qnarters  of  Napoleon.    The  Dnke  of 
Wellington,  alter  the  battle  of  Sala- 
manca, laidsiege  to  Bnigos;  bat,  being 
ill  sapported  by  Balesteros,  had  to  raise 
the  siege,  to  SToid  falling  into  the  hands 
of  Sonlt,  who  was  adTandng  at  the 
head  of  orerwhelming  nombers.    On 
Sept  1,  1818,  WeUington  began  this 
siege^  at  the  head  of  reiy  few  troops, 
and  with  only  three  18-poander8.    The 
castle  was  garrisoned  by  1800  infantry, 
besides  siidllerymen,  commanded  by 
the   gsUant   Dabreton.     It  was   de- 
fended  by  fire   endosores,  which   a 
heary  casemated  work  called  the  Na- 
poleon battery  cannonaded  on  erery  side 
except  to  the  N.,  where  at  some  dis- 
tance another  height,  San  Higad,  was 
weakly  pdissdfd.     The  French  pos- 
sessed twenty-six  gnns,  besides  the  re- 
serre  srtillery  of  the  army  of  PortogaL 
The  position  taken  by  the  £n|^^ 
extended  from  San  Higad  on  the  left 
of  the  old  camino  real  to  Yitoria,  np  to 
the  island  of  San  Pedro.     On  the  19th, 
notwithstanding  the  strong  batteries 
commanding  the  Arlanzon,  this  rirer 
was  forded  by  the  first  diTidon,  and  the 
first  assaalt  made  by  Mijor  Somers 
Cocks,  sapported  by  Pack's  Portogaese. 
Thoa(^  the  loss  wss  great»  the  hill  of 


San  Migod  was  gained.    The  pisn  of 
ths  siege  now  became  clearer.     Head 
qnarters  were  fixed  at  Villa  Tbra    OoL 
Bnrgoyne  ccndncted  the  operations  d 
the  engineen^  aad  the  artilleiy  was 
placed  nnder  Bobe  and  Dickson.    They 
had  only  three  18-poanders  and  fire 
84-poand  howitsers.     The  second  as- 
saalt met  with  no  saccess ;  the  third 
wasalsoafidlare,  owing  to  the  darkness 
of  the  night  and  the  &alt  of  the  con- 
ducting engineers ;  the  fourth  seemed 
at  first  to  be  attended  with  better  snc- 
oesi^  but  each  time  the  troops  had  ad- 
vanced,  Dubreton  'came  tiinnderin^ 
down  from  the  upper  ground,  lerdling 
all  the  works,  carrying  oif  all  the  tools, 
etc.*    M^jor  Cocks  was  killed,  with  800 
killed  or  wounded.    After  the  fifth  as> 
sault,  the  French  regained  some  import- 
ant podtions»  galUntly  obtained  by 
the  EngUsh,  who  had  once  more  to  iaU 
back  on  thdr  former  lines.    The  news 
came  now  that  Soult  was  mardiing 
from  Granada,  Ring  Joseph  was  moT- 
ing  upon  Madrid,  and  Souham  concen- 
trating Caiiarelli's  troops  with  his  own 
at  Bririesca.    The  En^^  army,  with- 
oat  ammunition,  ill  -  proTidoned,  de- 
spondent,   and   eren  growing  insub- 
ordinate, had  to  raiie  the  siege,  and 
Wellington  determined  to  endcayour  to 
join  HilL     This  retreat  was  effected 
after  thirty-three  days  of  inrestment, 
and  a  loss  of  upwards  of  8000  men. 
The  moTcment  was  skilfully  concerted, 
and  boldly  carried  out  on  the  31st    In 
June  1818,  the  castle,  still  in  posses- 
don  of  the  French,  had  not  been  re- 
paired, but  rather  so  neglected  that  it 
was  declared  untenable.     Before  the 
adTandng  duke.  King  Joeeph  retreated. 
The  castle  was  mined,  but  the  mines  so 
hurriedly  or  unskilfully  exploded  that 
they  destroyed  about  300  French,  ruined 
scTerd  streets^  and  thousands  of  shells, 
being  ignited  and  driven  upward^  fell 
on  sererd  buildings,  which  th^ 


84 


BUBGOS — LAS  HUBLGA& 


pletely  destroyed  or  mutilated.  It  was 
then,  and  by  that  terrific  explosion, 
that  the  beantiftil  painted  glass  windows 
in  the  cathedral  were  destroyed.  The 
castle  is  now  in  ruins,  and  the  fortifi- 
cations quite  insignificant 

FrivaU  JTousef.— There  srs  still  a 
few  mansions,  curious  and  interesting 
specimens  of  the  ciyil  architecture  of 
the  •14th  to  the  l«th  oentury.  Visit 
especially  the  '  Oasa  del  Cordon'  (16th 
oentury),  now  the  residence  of  the  Cap- 
tain OeneraL  It  belongs  to  the  Duke 
of  Friss^  who  is  a  descendant  of  the 
Count  of  Haro,  who  erected  it,  and  was 
Qonstable  of  Castile.  It  dates  from 
the  end  of  16th  century.  Oyer  the 
portal  is  the  rape  or  cordon  of  the  Teu- 
tonic Order  which  links  the  arms  of 
the  houses  of  Yelasco,  Mendoza,  and 
ilguera  with  those  of  royalty.  The 
msgnificenoe  of  this  royal  mansion  must 
hare  equalled  that  of  the  chapel  of  the 
Constable  in  the  Cathedra]  erected  by 
the  same  nobleman,  and  there  are  still 
some  fine  aculigos^  artesonado  ceilingi, 
the  patio  with  two  series  of  galleries, 
anns^  turrets,  etc,  besides  some  family 
portraits  in  the  sdmjnistrador  of  the 
duke's  rooms ;  but  muoh  was  plundered 
and  destroyed  by  the  French.  Ckua  tU 
Ifmuwb.— InCalledelaCalera,  E.of  the 
bsrrio  de  la  Vega.  Obserre  tiie  noble 
patio  and  pOlars.  Cam  d$  Angulo. — 
Close  to  the  former,  of  16th  century ;  a 
fine  portaL  In  Cbdle  de  los  ATelbaios^ 
Casa  del  Conde  de  Villsriezo,  of  the 
10th  century,  where  the  powerful  con- 
stable Alraro  de  Luna  was  imprisoned. 
The  archiepiscopal  palace  is  plain. 

Suhmb$, — Those  which  trsTellers 
should  not  fail  to  risit  consist  of  the 
conrent  of  Lss  Huelgas;  Cart^Ja  of 
Miraflores ;  and  San  Pedro  de  Cardefia, 
where  the  Cid's  tomb  used  to  be. 

La$Huttga$, — ^This  couTent  is  situ- 
ated on  the  high  road  to  Valladolid, 
and  was  founded  by  Alf<mso  VI IL  and 


his  queen  Leonora,  daughter  of  Henry 
II.  of  England,  in  1180,  on  the  site  of 
some  pleasure-grounds  (huelgas,  tnm. 
holgoTf  to  rest »  Sans  Soud).  It  has 
been  often  augmented  and  repaired  in 
subsequent  periods,  and  is  therefore  not 
homogeneous  in  either  style  or  shape. 
Of  the  former  pslaoe  or  rilla,  nothing 
more^  it  is  said,  remains  than  the  smaU 
cloister  with  &ntastical  capitals,  and 
Byzantine  semiciroulsr  arch.  The 
church  was  consecrated  in  1279,  and 
was  the  work  of  King  St  Ferdinand. 
It  is  of  a  good  pure  Gothic,  serere,  and 
well  characterised.  The  interior  of 
the  church  is  not  rery  interesting^  the 
altars  churrigueresque  and  gaudy,  with 
a  Christ  dressed  with  a  most  profiuie 
crinoline^  an  offering  of  the  present  lady 
abbesa  TheabbessesofHuelgasusedfor- 
meriy  to  be  most  powerful,  and  inferior 
to  no  one  in  dignity  besides  the  queen  ; 
they  were  mitred,  '  Sefioras  de  horca  y 
cuohillo'  (t.e.  with  right  of  life  and 
death),  lorded  oTer  fifty-one  villages 
and  boroughs,  named  their  alcaldes, 
curates,  chaplains^  and  possessed  the 
style  of  'For  la  grsda  de  Dies' and 
'  nullins  diocesis. '  It  is  one  of  the  few 
remaining  conyents  which  hare  pre- 
serred,  though  considerably  diminished, 
extensive  landed  property,  amounting 
to  some  1 6,000  fiuiegas,  several  villsgea^ 
and  many  thousand  head  of  merino 
sheep.  The  order  is  Cistereian,  and 
to  gain  admission  the  nuns  must,  besides 
the  ordinary  exigencies  of  the  mle^ 
bring  adowry  and  belong  to  the  nobility. 
The  clausura  (confinement)  is  most  strict, 
and  the  nuns  can  only  be  visited  by 
ladies.  On  Sundays,  during  high  mass, 
they  may  be  nevertheless  seen  sitting 
in  their  magnificently  carved  stalls, 
singing  and  praying,  dad  in  a  most 
becoming  dreaa  As  the  building  was 
also  intended  for  the  burial-house  ol 
the  Kings  of  Castile,  there  are  several 
tombs  worthy  of  a  rapid  glance.    In 


BUBGOS — CABTUJA. 


S5 


this  Eflcofial  of  ihe  North  are  Imried, 
•mongBt  othen,  the  Emperor  Alfonso 
YIL*  AlfoDBo  YIIL,  end  his  queen 
Leonor%  Alfonso  the  Learned,  Hen- 
rique I.,  etc.  In  this  church  the 
marriage  took  place  of  the  InfSuite 
de  la  Cerda  (who  is  buried  here)  with 
Blanche^  daughter  of  St.  Louis  of 
France,  at  which  the  Kings  of  Castile^ 
Aragon,  NaTaire^  the  Mocnrish  King  of 
Granada,  Prince  Edward  of  England 
(son  of  Henry  IIL),  the  Empress  of 
Constantinople,  the  French  Dauphin, 
and  twenty  or  thirty  other  crowned 
heads  and  princes  were  present  A- 
mongst  the  nuns  of  rank  that  have 
lired  and  died  here,  were  Berenguela, 
daughter  of  St  Ferdinand ;  Maria  of 
Aragon,  aunt  to  Charles  Y.,  etc  In 
the  Chapel  de  Santiago  is  preserved  an 
image  of  this  warrior  saint,  in  which 
some  springs  move  the  arms.  Here 
aspirants  to  knighthood  used  to  'velar 
las  armas'  (keep  the  vigil),  and  when 
they  were  knighted,  a  sword  was  fas-, 
tened  to  the  rig^t  hand  of  the  image, 
which,  by  moving  a  spring;  fell  genUy 
on  the  recipient*  s  shoulder,  and  thus 
their  dignity  was  saved  ;  for  otherwise 
it  was  an  offence  to  receive  the  accolade 
(dub  of  knighthood)  from  a  man.  In 
the  nun'a  choir  is  preserved  the  banner 
of  Alfonso  YIIL,  which  waved  at  Las 
Navas  de  Tolosa. 

Lck  Oairtuia, — This  convent  is  one  of 
the  lions  of  Buigos,  and  well  deserves 
a  visit  The  distance  is  balf-ati-hour's 
drive  from  the  centre  of  the  dty ;  a 
cal^e  there  and  back,  20r.  Shown 
only  from  8  A.M.  to  18  ▲.!!.,  and  from 
8  P.M.  to  sunset  The  convent,  once  a 
Ytrj  wealthy  one,  has  suffered  greatly 
since  the  suppression  of  religious  com- 
munitiet  in  Spain,  and  is  now  inhabited 
by  four  or  five  poor,  slovenly,  exdau- 
strado  Carthusian  monks,  who  are  just 
tolerated  and  looked  upon  with  hostile 
suspicion  by  that  rival  of  the  regular 


deigy,  d  ewu.  The  railway  is  eairied 
over  an  arch  called  Puerta  de  la  Yi^ 
which  was  built  by  Enrique  IIL,  but 
repaired  in  1881.  The  site  originally 
formed  some  hunting-grounds  called 
El  Pairqw  Eeal^  whidi  were  purchased 
by  Enrique  IIL,  who  built  the  palace 
of  liiraflores.'  At  his  death  it  was 
seen  that^  by  his  will,  he  had  intended 
founding  a  monastery.  Much  opposi- 
tion was  offered  to  the  accomplishment 
of  his  vow,  which  was  finally  carried 
out  by  his  son  Juan  II.,  who  granted 
thegroundsand  palace  to  the  Cai&uaian 
order  in  1442.  The  oooveUt  then  built 
was  burnt  down  to  the  ground  (1458), 
and  the  •present  one,  deogned  by  Juan 
de  Colonia,  whom  Bishop  Cartagena  had 
brought  with  him  for  the  works  of  ihe 
cathedral,  was  continued  with  great 
activity  and  completed  by  Isabella, 
who,  at  the  death  of  Juan  de  Colonia, 
employed  his  sons  Simon  and  Matienio. 
The  style  of  the  church  is  simple  yet  ele- 
gant, with  pointed  arched  windows,  and  a 
Jem  transition  pinnadesand  other  details. 
The  style  of  both  the  exterior  and  in- 
terior belongs  to  the  florid  Gothic,  with 
somewhat  of  the  plateresque.  The  ex- 
terior, with  ita  worked-out  flying  but- 
tresses and  pinnacles,  is  effective  from  a 
distance.  The  principal  fa9ade  is  deco- 
rated with  the  arms  of  Castile  and  Leon. 
Tfu  ItUerior  is  divided  into  three  por- 
tions, according  to  the  rule  observed  by 
the  Carthusian  order  in  all  ita  churches. 
One  portion  is  allotted  to  the  monks,  the 
other  to  the  legos  (laity),  and  the  third 
to  the  people,  each  railed  in,  and  the  two 
first  with  choirs  and  stalls.  The  AUar 
was  designed  by  Gil  De  Siloe  and  Diego 
de  la  Civix  ;  begun  in  I486,  finished  in 
1499.  It  was  entered  by  Queen  Isabella, 
and  gilt  with  the  gold  brought  from 
America  alter  the  second  journey  of 
Columbus.  It  is  quadrangular  in  shape, 
and  crowned  by  a  circle  formed  of  saints, 
and  in  the  centre  an  tcenes  Itom  the 


86 


BURGOS — OABTUJA. 


PassioiL  Before  it  it  a  cnici^  of  little 
merit  Orer  the  aagnrio  isa  Yiigin  in 
an  um,  which,  being  placed  on  a  wheel, 
lerolyeB,  preaenting  seven  aoenes  of  the 
Scripture,  acolptnred  upon  its  seven 
sides.  Th€  Tombs  are  the  principal 
sight  in  the  convent,  and  may  be  ranked 
among  the  finest  in  Europe.  In  the 
centre  of  the  nave  is  the  tomb  of  Juan 
II.,  and  that  of  Queen  Isabella  of  Por- 
tugaL .  The  mausoleums  are  octagonal 
in  aha^;  sixteen  lions,  two  at  each 
angle,  support  eight  escutcheons  bearing 
the  royal  arms  from  the  base ;  the  sides, 
upper  angles,  etc,  are  crowded  with 
numerous  statuettes  under  filigree  cano- 
pies, open-worked  leaves,  and  fruit,  be- 
sidesnumberlessbirds  and  other  animals, 
and  the  whole  charmingly  oomposed 
and  executed  with  such  delicacy  of  de- 
tail and  abundance  of'  subjects,  that  la 
vitia  $epimU  amongst  all  that  intricacy. 
The  statues  are  in  a  recumbent  attitude. 
Observt  the  wonderftil  workmanship  of 
the  cushions  and  robes,  as  well  as  the 
sitting  figures  of  the  four  Evangelists, 
and  the  group  of  a  lion,  dog,  and  child 
at  the  queen's  feet  Cloee  to  these 
tombs,  in  a  recess  in  the  wall,  is  that 
of  their  son,  Don  Alfonso  (ob.  1470,  nt 
10),  who,  at  his  death,  was  succeeded 
by  his  sister  Isabella.  The  Infante  is 
kneeling;  a  vine,  from  around  which 
children  are  hanging,  whilst  they  are 
plucking  the  grapes,  winds  in  festoons 
round  tiie  Gothic  arch  which  frames 
that  poetical  composition.  There  are 
also  numberless  specimens  from  the 
v^table  and  animal  kingdoms,  fhiit, 
branches,  leaves  of  all  sorts,  eta,  all 
admirably  executed.  These  tombs, 
raised  by  Isabella  to  the  memoiy  of  her 
sires  and  brother,  were  designed  by  Gil 
de  Sfloe,  who  began  them  in  1489,  and 
finished  them  in  1498 ;  they  cost  60S,  400 
maravedis.  TAsitoltf  in  the  first  choir, 
dose  to  the  altar,  are  of  walnut,  and 
deoorated  only  with  leaf  ornaments. 


The  prior's  stall,  with  its  Gothic  canopy, 
is  fine ;  it  dates  from  1488,  and  is  the 
work  of  Martin  Sanches.  The  second 
choir,  eoro  de  ios  Ugot,  has  stalls  more 
elaborately  worked  and  bemeguete-like 
in  the  style  and  execution~{1558)— by 
Simon  Bueras.  The  retahh  over  the 
high  altar  is  a  grand  composition,  with 
subjects  from  our  Saviour's  life ;  at  the 
bottom,  on  each  side,  are  Imeeling 
eflBgies  of  the  king  and  queen.  There 
is  a  crowd  of  suljects  and  figures  on 
either  side  of  the  tabemade ;  above  this 
latter  is  the  Assumption  of  the  Yiigin ; 
and  above^  a  circle  formed  of  clnstOTsd 
angels.  In  the  centre  stands  a  fine 
Crucifix,  surmounted  by  the  allegorical 
subject  of  the  Pelican,  vulning  her 
breast  The  sculpture  is  ex<^ent 
throughout,  and  does  credit  to  Maestro 
Gil  de  Siloe,  who  designed  it  (1496-99), 
and  executed  most  of  it,  the  rest  being 
the  work  of  Diego  de  la  Crux.  The 
elaborate  reja  is  by  Santillana.  The 
painted  glass  is  not  very  remarkable, 
though  expressly  made  in  and  brought 
fh>m  Flanders  in  the  15th  century. 
The  burial-ground  is  truly  a  'champ  du 
repos' — nay,  of  oblivion  and  n^ect 
41 9  Carthusian  monks  lie  there  in  death 
as  they  lived,  humble  and  foigotten, 
without  a  name  or  a  date^  amongst  the 
weeds,  and  shaded  by  some  tdl  and 
sombre  cypresses,  which  raise  up  their 
arrowy  and  motionless  spires  into  the 
blue  heavens.  All  is  calm  and  quiet 
there,  and  silence  is  only  interrupted  by 
the  trickling  tear-like  drops  of  water 
from  a  fountain  in  the  centre.  Weeds 
grow  thick  and  quick  around  graves  in 
Spain ;  in  that  land  of  sun  and  blue 
sky,  shadows  do  not  linger  long  over 
the  heart,  and  the  poor  dead  are  soon 
forgotten.  Visit  the  cells  and  adjoining 
gardens  and  workshops  of  the  monks. 
In  a  chapel  is  a  fine  statue  of  the  founder 
of  the  order,  St  Bruno,  by  Manuel  Perey- 
ra,  which  was  formerly  in  the  cathedriL 


BURGO& 


87 


Sam  Ptdro  de  OardeHa  is  a  oohvent  of 
the  Beoedictine  order,  founded  by  Qaeen 
Stnoha,  mother  of  the  Gothic  Theodoric. 
In  the  time  of  Alfonso  el  Ossto  (9th 
oentniy),  the  Moors,  during  one  of  their 
forays,  rased  the  edifice  to  the  groond, 
and  killed  200  monks  who  inhabited  it 
It  was  a  favoorite  oonyent  with  the  Cid, 
and  at  his  dying  request  (1090),  his  body 
was  conTeyed  hither,  and  buried  before 
the  high  altar,  together  with  his  laith- 
ful  Jimena. 

Y  i  S«a  Pedro  dm  CBrddIa 
Mando  qoc  mi  cucrpo  Ueven,  etc. 


The  empty  monument  now  stands  in  a 
small  side-chapel ;  on  the  stone  pedestal 
are  placed  the  eflSgies  of  the  great  hero 
and  Jimena,  side  by  side  in  death  as 
they  had  lived.  On  the  upper  part  is 
an  inscription,  placed  by  order  of  Al- 
fonso the  Learned.  On  the  walls  are 
blasoned  the  escutcheons  of  the  CSd's 
relatires  and  companions  in  arms.  But 
the  conyent  has  been  modernised ;  this 
reiy  chapel  only  dates  from  1786,  and 
on  the  whole  we  do  not  advise  tourists 
to  undergo  the  dreary  drive  across  wind- 
blown, rocky  downs  for  this  edifice,  of 
which  little  remains  of  fonner  days. 


^ooyb0U0n.~Rodrigues,  Plasuela  da 
Lain  Cairo  ;  Avila,  40  Galle  de  ht  Pa- 
loma ;  both  Hl-prorided.  We  know  of 
no  good  public  library  here.  Some 
curious  M8S.  of  Sta.  Teresa,  etc,  may 
be  found  at  Arohires  of  Ayuntamiento. 

Booki  qf  JZ^smicf.— 1.  'Reladon 
de  la  Fundadon  y  Goeas  memorables  de 
la  Iglesia  mayor  de  Buigos,'  foL,  MS. 
in  BibL  Nad.  (O.  101).  Yeiy  interest- 
ing ;  consisting,  moreover,  of  data  on 
the  Monastery  of  Garde&a,  relics  of  the 
Oid,  eta,  reliable. 

5.  'Hist  de  htCatedraldeBuigoe,' 
by  Orajo;  Buigoe,  Palo^  1846,  8vo 
editions  by  Yillsnueva,  in  1848  and 
1848 ;  veiy  accurate  and  detailed. 

8.  'Apuntes  Hist  sober  el  cdebre 
Monasterio  de  Sta.  Maria  La  Beal  de 
las  Hue]ga%'  by  Galvo  ;  Burgos,  Yilla- 
nueva,  1848.    Accurate  and  detailed. 

4.  On  the  history  of  the  *Cid,'  its 
chronides  and  poems,  and  of  Fern. 
Oomnlei,  etc,  see  Ticknor's  '  Hist  Sp. 
Literature' 

6.  'Minas  de  Oarbon  de  las  Inme- 
diadones  de  Buigoe,'  by  Grande^  a 
paper  in  *Revista  Minora,'  vd.  L  p. 
130,  188a 

For  the  histoiy  of  Castile  see  Ths 


88 


CXCERES    (E8TREMADURA). 


Capital  of  proyince  of  same  name ; 
pop.  IS,  466. 

Boutea  to— Ist,  From  Madrid  or  from 
Lisbon  to  M^rida ;  see  MMda.  Dis- 
tance about  344  miles.  A  small  diligence 
service  mns  between  M4rida  and  GiL- 
ceres.  The  principal  villages  and  sites 
are  of  no  importance.  On  leaving  M4- 
rida,  a  Roman  aqnednct  repaired  and 
carrying  water  to  Uie  town :  tiirongh  an 
uninteresting  tract  of  country,  reach 
the  miserable  hamlets  otAlguem,  and 
its  stream ;  skirt  the  Sierra  de  San 
Pedro,  and  Caeas  de  Don  Antonio.  Close 
to  hotter,  6  miles  distant,  lies  the 
town  of  Montanches,  celebrated  for  its 
hams,  jatHonee,  the  most  succulent  in 
Spain ;  along  with  those  of  the  Alpu- 
jirras,  they  were  great  favourites  with 
Charles  Y.  during  his  '  Betiro'  at  Yuste. 
Much  of  their  delicacy  was  then 
ascribed  to  the  different  sorts  of  reptiles 
which  it  was  supposed  constituted  the 
ordinary  food  of  the  Montanches  pigs. 
Acorns  are  certainly  not  abundant  in 
tliispartof  the  country.  Cross  the  riven 
Ayuela  and  JHo  Solar, 

2d.  From  Madrid  or  Lisbon  to  Bada- 
joz,  whence  by  galeras  or  riding — 


Vadi^os  to  CAceres,  14  leagues. 
(If  riding,  take  a  load  guide,  as  tlMo 
you  cross  the  Puerto  de  Saocho 
Caballo,  whUst  by  galeras  that  of 
Qovin  is  travened.) 
Bs4Si0os  to  Roca        ...       6 
Puebia  de  Ovando  .       t 

Cftoefes  .7 

In  a  long  day*s  hard  ride       14 

A  league  after  leaving  Badiyoz  the 
Bbora  is  crossed  by  a  fine  bridge,  then 
the  Riberade  Periquitos  is  forded.  The 
other  riven  which  the  traveller  meets 
are,  the  Ayuella,  24  leagues  before  ar- 
riving at  Cioeres^  and  the  Salar,  half-a- 


league.  The  Ribera  del  Saltillo  has  to 
be  forded  near  Puebia  de  OVando,  a 
village  of  871  inhabiUnts,  also  called 
£1  Zdngano,  which  name  would  reflect 
no  flattering  credit  on  the  inhabitants. 
<But^  what's  in  a  name!*— though  it 
generally  itoZi. 

8d.  ByTn^fillo.   Madrid  to  Tn^iUo, 
whence:^ 


TrujUlo  to  Veata  de  MasOla 


3 

8 


Across  hills  planted  with  oaks;  the 
riven  Magnscaand  Tameja  are  crossed. 
Reached  by  galeras  or  riding.  In  both 
toun  take  a  local  guide,  and  attend  to 
the  provender. 

OAoeres.— /iMu— most  indifferent- 
Posada  Nueva  and  that  of  Los  Cabal- 
leros.  The  climate  is  excellent;  the  air 
pure  and  soft.  The  winter  is  scarcely 
felt,  and  lasts  but  a  few  weeks ;  the 
mortality  is  1.81.  The  country  around 
b  the  most  fertile  in  the  province. 
The  older  portion  of  Cdceres  occupies 
the  summit  of  the  height  on  which  the 
town  is  placed,  and  is  flanked  bv  old 
quaint  massive  walls  with  cuboi  ana  five 
gates,  of  which  latter  that  of  LaEHrtUa 
is  the  most  intereatiDg.  The  newer 
portion  is  built  around  the  former,  but 
slopes  down  to  the  plain,  which  is  wa- 
tered by  the 'eaiMla/oso'ifaroo.  Though 
abounding  with  wine,  corn,  fruit,  and 
delicious  hams  and  bacon,  and  rich 
imcculent  sausages  of  all  kinds  (which 
we  recommend  •  to  the  gastronomic 
tourist),  CAceres,  from  its  out-of-the- 
way  situation  and  want  of  roads,  lies  in 
an  ignored  nook  of  Estremadura,  and 
is  dull,  lifeless,  dirty,  and  sombre.  The 
antiquary  and  artist  will  nevertheless 
not  lack  subjects  worthy  of  attention, 


CiOSRES — ALOillTARA  BRIDOB. 


89 


pen,  and  pencil ;  not  somach  from  uiy 
perticiilAr  edifice,  aa  for  'Proat*-bit 
nooka  and  comen^  and  private  houaea, 
all  well  preaerred  and  atrongly  ohanio- 
teriaed,  belonging  to  the  feadal  timea, 
and  bttring  proud  armoriala.  Do  not 
faU  to  Tiait  the  FeUioi,  the  Mooriah 
Alcazar ;  the  houaea  of  the  Duque  de 
Abrantea,  Conde  de  la  Torre,  de  loa  Gol- 
ftnea,deloaCarbigalea,ete.  The  plaza  ia 
decorated  with  a  Roman  Cerea  and  a  Di- 
ana (the  head  ia  modem).  There  are,  be- 
aidea,  the  Biahop'a  Palace ;  the  Gothic 
church  of  Santa  JUaria,  rebuilt  in  1556, 
wliero  notice  the  retablo  of  that  period 
and  the  aepulchrea  of  the  Figueroaa,  Pare- 
des,  etc. ;  SanMaUo,  in  the  upper  or  older 
town,  doae  to  houae  de  loa  Yeletaa,  and 
tlie  work  of  Pedro  de  Ezquerrs  (ita 
tower  and  tomba) ;  and  in  SanUago  a 
fine  reja  (1563).  The  bull-ring,  all  of 
granite,  and  aituated  N.  W.  of  the  town, 
is  a  magnificent  building  $ui  generii. 
Tliero  arc  antiquitica  constantly  dug 
up  and  rcbtuiod  in  the  '  Deheaa  de  loa 
Arrogatoa'  8  leagues  off.  Cdccrea  waa 
founded,  74  B.C.,  by  Q.  C.  Metellua, 
and  named  by  him  Castra  Cnaaria, 
whence  ita  preeent  name  ia  derired. 

Bzoursion  to  Alcantara* — ^A  6  hrs.' 
ride^  amid  wild  oaka  and  deheaaa,  by 
Brozaa. 

Alointara.— Pop.  4000.  On  a  rocky 
height  OTer  the  Tagua,  and  girdled  by 
waUa  6  mil  high  and  2  m^t  wide.  Al- 
Kantarih  (Che  bridge  in  Arab.)  waa  the 
Norba  Casmrea  of  the  Kumana,  and 
belonged  aubeequently  to  the  military 
order  of  Aldmtara,  to  whom  it  waa 
granted  by  Alfonso  IX.  of  Castile,  in 
1212.  YmtihtConvctU  of  San  Benito, 
built  in  1506,  and  tolaiged  and  em- 
belliahed  by  Philip  II.  Obsenre^  orer 
and  above  the  collateral  altar,  aome 
fine  pictures  by  Morales,  who  must  be 
studied  in  Estremadura,  hia  native  land. 
Alaonodcetheaepulchieaof  the  knights, 
the  doiaters^  eto.   The  great  lion  here  is 


the  Bridge,  a  wonderful  work  built  for 
Tngan,  ▲.D.  105,  by  the  architect  Oaiua 
Juliua  Lacer,  who  waa  buried  near  it 
It  waa  repaired  by  that  other  great  em- 
peror, Charles  Y.,  in  1548.  It  oonaists 
of  six  arches,  varying  in  aize^  and  is 
entirely  built  with  blocks  of  granite, 
without  cement ;  the  wideat  arehea  in 
the  centre  have  a  apan  of  110  ft ;  the 
length  is  670  fL  ;  the  height  210  ft 
There  is  a  tower  in  the  middle  some  18. 
mU.  high.  The  second  arch  on  the 
right  bulk  waa  blown  up  in  1819  by 
CoL  Mayne^  was  repaired  in  1812  by 
CoL  Stuigoon,  and  destroyed  a  aecond 
time  in  1836  ;  it  has  never  been  repaired 
since,  and  the  river  is  crossed  in  a  ferry- 
boat, and  thia  near  and  under  one  of 
the  grandest  engineering  works  of  the 
Romans  in  Spain,  whidi  it  is  a  na 
tional  duty  to  preserve  as  a  monument, 
and  a  government's  obligation  to  make 
available.  A  decent  Casa  de  huespedes, 
kept  by  Don  Cisto  Pefia,  near  the  Plasa 
de  Toros,  and  a  tolerable  posada,  Nueva 
de  la  Viuda. 

ICxonrsion  to  Plaaencia,  82  leagues, 
can  be  made.    (See  Pla$eneia,) 

liimtrtuy. 


CAcerM  to  Ma1pwtid« 

» 
1 

Aldbttan  (sleep) 
AlcAntara  to  Gammlb*    . 

Camaverml      .          .          .         . 

Coria  (sleep)   .         .         .         . 
Plascncia 

\k 

3* 

Riding ;  take  a  local  guide  and  pro- 
vender. Interesting  only  to  artiats  and 
ecdesiologists. 

Arroyo  del  Puereo, — Posada  de  la 
Cacerana.  In  the  parish  church  are, 
or  were  till  but  very  recently,  aixteen 
very  fine  authentic  and  undefiled  pic- 
tures by  Morales.  The  subjects  are^ 
Chiist  in   the  Garden,  Bearing  the 


90 


OACSRES — CONVBNT  OF  YUSTK. 


CroaB,  the  Annunciatioii,  KatiTity, 
Christ  in  limbo^  St  John,  SaTioor 
Bound,  Descent,  Borial,  Christ  snd 
Joseph  of  Arimathea,  Adoration  of 
Kings,  Circumcision,  Ascension,  Pen- 
tecost, Saviour  with  the  Reed,  St 
Jerome. 

AlediUara,—  Vide  p.  89. 

C^yrio.— Posada  Kueva,  in  Calle  de 
los  Moi^as.  Pop.  2500.  Is  the  Roman 
Caurinm,  of  which  the  walla  still  suh- 
gist,  and  are  interesting ;  they  are  SO  ft 
high  and  19  ft  thick  on  an  aTerage. 
Visit  the  Paredon,  the  Aqueduct^  Torre 
de  San  Francisco,  the  Gothic  Cathedral 
of  granite,  with  a  fine  plateresque  en- 
trance and  quaintly  carved  stalls,  dat- 
ing 1489,  and  tombs  of  Bishop  Oalarza, 
Prescamo,  Doba  Catalina,  Dial,  etc, 
most  of  them  of  the  beginning  of  the 
16th  oentury  and  end  of  the  15th. 

Flaaenoia. — Inns :  Posada  de  las  tree 
Puertas  and  Parador  Nuevo.  6000  in- 
habitants, bishop's  see  as  well  as  Coria, 
•  on  the  banks  of  the  Jerte  and  in  the 
pror.  of  C&ceres.  The  town  is  hooped 
in  by  a  massive  wall,  built  in  1197  by 
Alfonso  YIII.  of  Castile,  and  strength- 
ened by  sixty-eight  cubo  towers  and 
with  six  gates,  all  most  picturesque, 
and  excellent  specimens  of  medieval 
Castilian  military  engineering.  Besides, 
on  the  N.E.  side,  and  overlooking  the 
rest,  rose  a  strongly-built  fortress,  of 
which  the  ruins  subsist  The  flint- 
made  streets  are  straight,  and  the 
houses  of  the  earlier  periods  are  worth 
a  visit,  especially  that  of  Marqu^  de 
HiraveL  Observe  the  grand  staircase, 
the  pOlais  and  statues;  that  of  the 
Maiqu^  de  Santa  Cms  de  Paniagua 
Oiterally,  bread  and  water),  with  a  fine 
balcony.  The  principal  sight  is  the 
Cathedral.  It  was  built  in  1498,  and 
belongs  to  the  florid  Gothic ;  but  has 
been  modernised  and  altered  in  several 
portions,  while  other  parts 'have  re- 
mained unfinished.  Observt  the  fine  S. 


entrance,  the  plateresque  door,  '  Puerta 
del  Enlosado;'  the  interior  is  some- 
what disfigured  by  the  over-sized  pil- 
lars which  support  the  roof  of  th* 
centrsl  aisle ;  notice  more  especially  the 
colossal  and  fine  r^a  del  ooro,  6  ft 
high  (1664),  by  Celma ;  the  finely-carved 
Tedesque  stells  by  Aleman ;  the  retablo 
of  the  high  altar,  a  masterpiece  of 
Gregorio  Hemandes  (1626),  four  large 
pictures  by  Ricd ;  the  plateresque  se- 
pulchres of  Bishop  Ponce  de  Leon  and 
others. 

Besides  the  cathedral  may  be  visited 
the  Church  of  San  Nicolas,  with  a  fine 
tomb  of  Bishop  Pedro  de  Carv^jal ;  San 
Ildefonso  for  the  tomb  of  Cristobal  de 
VillalU ;  the  Church  of  San  Vicente 
for  another  of  Martin  Nieto  (1597),  etc 
Prout-bits  that  will  tempt  the  sketcher 
are  not  wanting  about  the  cathedral, 
bishop's  palace,  etc  Antiquaries  will 
study  and  trace  from  what  remains  the 
beautiful  Roman  Via  Lata,  going  from 
M^rida  to  Salamanca,  whidi  is  more 
strongly  marked  on  nearing  Merida 
and  the  Charca,  where  still  subsist  the 
military  columns,  7  ft  high,  generally 
well  preserved. 

Exenr$im  U  Cmvent  ff  Kiw/r.— TnYeHen 
desirous  of  visitihg  this  out-or-the-way  coorenc, 
the  site  of  the  refuge  and  death  of  Quurles  V., 
win  do  well  to  ohtain  beforehand  ioformatioo 
respecting  the  administrador  of  El  Mooasterio 
de  San  Geronimo  de  Yuste,  at  Cuacos,  as 
changes  are  now  taking  place  in  the  ksseeship 
of  the  convent,  which  has  been  recently  pur- 
chased by  the  Due  de  Montpenster,  and  is 
undergoing  repairs.  Yuste  lies  some  8  leagues 
from  Pbaencia,  acrom  the  Xerte.  the  Calaooes 
hill,  the  charming  valley  of  Vera,  to  pictur- 
esque Pasaroo.  Soon  after  the  latter  has  been 
left,  the  Hieronyraite  'Convent  appears  a  little 
above  the  Magdalena  &rm,  and  near  the  small 
stream  of  the  Yuste.  Visit  the  Nogal  Grande, 
a  huge  wahiut-tree,  under  which  Charles  used 
to  sit ;  his  bedroom,  where  once  hung  Titian's 
Gloria,  now  at  the  Madrid  Gallery,  No.  75a. 
In  the  chqiel  observe  the  finely-carved  silleria 
by  MatM  Aleman:  visit  likewise  the  Plata 
del  Palacio,  the  sun-dial  erected  by  Juaneb 
Tuniana,   the  pleasnrt-groands— Sidly  aa- 


JIADRID  TO  CORT)m:A.SK\TIJA&CADlZAm>MAU«AA  GRASADA 


A  A  C  BUflcBlitbiir^ 


CADIZ. 


91 


fleeted— and  its  Cenador  de  Belem.  The 
convent  wnt  tndced  and  alneoet  destroyed  by 
Sonh't  loldicn:  and  tlie  brutal  peasants  of 
Cnacos,  the  constant  enemies  of  the  convent 
even  daring  Charies's  liJe,  have  done  the  rest 
In  the  vicinity  ef  Ynste  game  aboonds,  such 
at  deer,  roebudc,  wild  boan,  cabfms  montesas 
(chamoisX  and  wolves.  There  is  also  soom  ex- 
cdlent  6slimg  about  the  Xerte,  Yuste,  etc 

From  or  to  Salamaniea^  48  letgaes  by 
Ciadid  Bodrigo.    (See  Salamumea,) 

Bock$  cf  JZ^tfrmM.— 'Hktoria  de 
Oioeree  con.  eiie  Pririlegioe,'  by  Ullo* 
y  Golfin,  MS.  in  Actd.  Hirt.  (D.  49), 
the  beet  work  written  on  thie  dty. 

AkdiUara, — '  Descripdon  de  la  ion- 
tooeey  oelebre  Pnentede  AlcdLntirm ; '  4to, 
Ma,  BibL  Nftdonele  (toL  159,  foL  9«). 

TutU, — 1.  'Fundftdon  del  Monas- 


terio  de  Ynste,'  by  Hemendo  del  Cor* 
ml,  Ma  of  the  l«th  centniy,  BibL  of 
Eecorial  (L.  J.  18,  fol.  26X  end  Signon- 
ga's  '  Hist  of  the  Older  of  St  Jerom^' 
2  vols.,  i,  p.  29. 

2.  And  for  details  on  the  life  of 
Charles  Y.  at  Ynste,  see,  *  History  of  the 
Order  of  St  Jerome,'  by  Signenza,  toL 
i,  p.  86;  *ao|rter  life  of  the  Em- 
peror Charles  v.,'  by  Stirling  1862, 
etc;  SeAorTomas Gonzales's  important 
work,  '  Retiro, '  etc.,  extracted  from  da 
cuments  at  Simancas,  and  M.  Miffnet's 
'Charies  Qnint'  etc.,  the  last  edition 
(1862),  in  whidi  we  hare  remarked 
very  interesting  new  documents,  not 
comprised  in  the  former  editions ;  San* 
doTal's' Hist 'etc. 


CADIZ. 


Capital  of  prorinoe  of  the  same  name ; 
bishop's  see ;  trading  and  military  sea- 
port   Pop.  (1861)  71,521. 

Boataa  and  Ckmreyaaoas.  —  1st, 
From  Madrid^  by  rail  thronghont,  cros- 
sing Cordova,  Serille^  and  Jeres  ;  dis- 
tance, 726  kil ;  time,  24  hours.  Fares, 
IstcL,  822r.  26c.;  2d  a,  245r.  26o. 
From  Madrid  to  Alcasar,  the  Alicante 
Railway  ii  followed.  At  Alcasar  change 
carriages.  A  buffet  Madrid  to  Cor^ 
doTa,  164  hours ;  Cordora  to  SeriUe, 
d|  hours ;  Senile  to  Cadi^  4|  hours. 
Buffet  at  Cordora.  For  description  of 
route  see  Alicante,  Cordora,  etc 

2d,  From  SwOU.  A.  By  rail,  6t 
hours  ;  distanc^  168  klL  For  details 
see  SeriUe  and  Jeres. 

B.  By  the  rirer ;  offioes^  Salmon, 
Oalle  Noera,  7.  Time,  64  to  7  hours  ; 
see  SeriUe  (sddom  adopted). 

8d,  From  Cctdova^  9  hours;  one 
train ;  distance^  286  kU.  Fares,  1st 
oL,  112r.  70c  ;  2d  cL,  8^.  94c ;  8d 
d.»  61r.  64.    For  detaUs  see  Cbntoio. 


4th,  From  Malaga,  A.  By  sea.  The 
Lopes  steamers  leare  11th  and  26th  of 
eyeiy  month,  and  arrive  12th  and  27th 
in  the  morning.  Time,  15  hours.  Fares, 
1st  cL,  160r.;  2d  cL,  lOOr.;  8d  cL,  60r. 
B.  By  land.  ByraU,asfarasXai20«ia, 
8  hours  ;  whence,  riding  or  walkinf^ 
by  Onma  to  ndlway  station  of  Mmrm  ; 
distance,  about  6  mUes.  At  Moron 
take  up-raU  to  Uirtra,  1  hour.  Fares, 
19r.  76c  ;  on  the  SeriUe  to  Cadii  Une 
Utrera  to  Cadiz,  4}  hours.  Also,  by 
raU  to  Montilla,  whence,  by  walking, 
24  mfles  to  i^i^  take  up  at  latter ; 
take  the  raflway  dH  to  CbrMona,  or 
walk,  whenoe  by  raU  to  SeriUe  and 
Cadis. 

6th,  FromjD<f6oisleaTeon8th«18th« 
and  28th  of  erery  month,  by  the  St 
Naaaire  Company^s  packets,  at  8  A.M. 
Fares,  1st  cL,  860r.  ;  2d  cL,  240r.; 
8dcL,  120r.  The  same  leare  Cadiz  for 
Lisbon  on  the  10th,  20th,  and  80th  of 
each  month,  at  4  P.M.  J^.i^.— Infbt^ 
matioa  tdrisable  respecting  pmra^ 


02 


CADIZ— ROUTJfiB. 


Unas  for  ships  coming  from  Harre  by 
Lisbon. 

(ith,Jhtom  AlicanU,  Lopez's  stosmen 
leare  on  0th  and  24th  of  erery  month, 
touch  at  Malaga,  and  arrive  12th  and 
27th,  in  the  morning.  Fares,  Ist  cL, 
880r.;  2d  cL,  260r. ;  8d  cl.,  ISOr.; 
Time,  80  hoars. 

Cadiz  and  Barcelona  are  the  .two 
most  important  ports  in  Spain,  and  the 
points  of  departure  and  centres  of  com- 
munication for  Tcssels  to  all  parts  of 
the  world. 

To  Puerto  meo  and  ffavamuih, — ^The 
Roysl  Mail  Transatlantic  steamen  of 
Lopez  9l  Company  leare  on  the  15th 
and  80th  of  erery  month.  Fares,  1st 
d.,  180  dols.;  2d  cl,  120  dols.,  to  Ha- 
rannah  ;  and  Ist  cL,  150  dols. ;  2d 
cL,  100  dols.,  to  Puerto  Itico.  To 
DMin,  OUugow,  Edinlurgh,  Zeiih, 
and  Liverpool,  every  15  days  by  the 
steamer  *  Baron  Harobro*  and  the  '  Celt. ' 
Office,  Charles  Harrison  Younger,  Calls 
del  Norte,  2;  and  by  the  English 
steamers  'De  Bms'  and  'Bokeby.' 
Offices  here,  Cslle  Columela,  80.  To 
Manila,  MtUta,  Suex,  India,  China,  and 
vice  vend  to  Southampton.  To  first  in 
45  days,  by  the  Peninsular  and  Oriental 
Steam  Navigation  Company,  122  Lead- 
enhall  Street,  London ;  leave  South- 
ampton on  the  4th  of  every  month  ;  on 
the  9th  touch  at  Gibraltar,  to  which 
port  Csdiz  travellers  must  resort,  but 
can  take  their  tickets  at  the  Cadiz  office. 
Plaza  de  las  Nieves,  8 ;  Don  Antonio 
de  Znlueta.  To  and  from  Liverpool, 
plying  between  it  and  Barcelona,  touch- 
ing at  the  ports  of  Gallida.  English 
steamers  despatched  by  Sefior  Joaquin 
del  Cuvilla,  Calle  ColumeU,  86 ;  the 
large  steamers  '  Peninsula, '  '  Britannia, ' 
*(>idiz,'  and  'London,'  leave  once 
a-week.  Same  office.  Leave  from  and 
to  London  once  a-week,  touching  at 
Gibraltar  only  on  coming  and  on  going 
at  the  principal  Qallidan  ports  (Vigo, 


Ferrol,  etc.)  The  South  American 
General  Steam  Navigation  Company 
leave  Liverpool  on  the  11th  and  21st  of 
every  mont^  for  Lisbon  and  Cadiz ;  to 
the  latter  £10  and  £8. 

From  Oibraltar  to  Oufiz.— The  large 
steamers  (the  '  London,'  1800  tons)  of 
the  Spanish  and  Portuguese  St&m- 
shij^  Company,  once  a-week.  Time, 
8hodrs.  Fares,  1st  cl.,  £1;  2d  cl, 
12s.  The  French  St  Nazaire  steamers 
leave  on  the  0th,  19th,  and  29th  of 
every  month,  the  two  first  at  8  a.m. 
and  the  latter  at  5  p.m.  Fares»  1st  cl, 
90r. ;  2d  cl,  60r. ;  8d  cl,  40r. 

0th.  From  Jerez.    See  that  name. 

7th.  From  OibraUar  to  Oadix.-^A, 
By  Sea.— 6  hours  to  74  hours,  by  St 
Nazaire  steamers,  on  9th,  19th,  and 
29th ;  the  two  former  leave  at  8  a.m. 
and  the  latter  at  5  p.m.  Fares,  Ist  cl, 
90r.;  2d  cl,  60r.;  3d  cl.,  40r.  There 
are  also  excellent  Spanish  steamers 
plying  occasionally  between  Gibraltar 
and  Cadiz,  and  vice  vered;  and  English, 
all  duly  advertised  in  local  papers,  leave 
for  Gibraltar  on  2d,  12th,  and  21st 
This  is  a  very  pleasant  trip  when  the 
weather  is  fine,  and  after  crossing  the 
Straits,  which  bad  sailors  will  not 
relish,  the  cosst  of  Spain  is  scarcely  lost 
sight  of^  whilst  the  African  shores  rise 
in  the  distance.  On  the  left,  we  soon 
make  out  Tarifa  and  its  white-washed 
houses  ;  the  Punta  de  la  Paloma ;  Cape 
Trafalgar,  dear  to  every  Englbh  heart 
as  the  scene  of  Nelson's  immortal  vic- 
tory, October  21, 1805.  (See  B.)  Conil 
and  Isla  de  San  Fernando  are  passed 
by,  and  the  beautiful  bay  of  Cadiz 
entered,  the  city  lying  to  the  right, 
Bota,  Puerto  Santa  Maria,  etc,  to  the 
left.  Boats,  a  tariff ;  see  Port  of 
Cadiz.  The  fast  Spanish  steamer 
'Sevilla'  plies  between  Seville,  Ssnlu- 
car,  Cadiz,  Tarifa,  Algeciras,  and  Gib- 
raltar, once  a-week.  Offices  at  OmUz, 
Calle  de  Halcon,  S. 


CADIZ — ROUTXa 


93 


B.  By  laad.  Two  roatet:  one  crones 
Algednt  and  Tari&,  the  other  leaves  these  on 
the  left,  and  cuts  acrois  Los  Barrios,  Qua  Vieja, 
Medina  Sidonia.  The  firrt  oontinaes  along  the 
sea-coast,  and  is  practicable  only  during  some 
seasons.  It  travenes  Tari&  and  Tkmfalgar, 
and  ^  to  be  preferred  when  ladles  are  m  the 
case.  The  second  is  shorter,  trilder,  and 
a  wopdy  portion  of  country. 

i  FirH  Jtiturmty. 

Gibraltar  to  Algedras 
Tarila        .       . 
VenUdeTaibiUa 
Venta  de  Vejer 
Chiclana    . 
Cadis         .       . 


Miles. 


9 

IS 

14 
16 

»3 


The  ride  to  Tarife  b  9  to  to  hrs.  Leave  San 
Roqoe  to  the  right,  follow  the  sands  and  bay. 
Aigwtimu.^'^of.  i8,si6  inhab.,  pror.  of  Cadis. 
This  Porttts  Albos  of  the  Romans,  and  the  Erin, 
the  Grten  hUmd  (Jesiratu-1-Rhadri},  of  the 
Moor,  a  name  whidi  has  been  preserved  to  the 
Isia  Verde,  also  called  de  hs  Palomas,  was 
strongly  ibrtiiied  by  the  Moors,  and  suffered 
several  lieges,  until  it  was  taken  in  1344  by  Al- 
fonso XL  The  capture  was  considered  of  great 
importance,  and  the  see  of  Cadb  was  removed 
here  by  a  bull  of  Clement  VL,  the  bishops  being 
henceforth,  and  still,  'of  Cadis  and  Algedras,' 
and  the  kings  of  Spam  were  styled  'Reyes  del 
Algedra.'  It  was  retaken  1379  by  Mahomet 
II.  of  Granada,  and  destroyed,  not  to  be  rdMiilt 
befora  1760^  under  Charies  III.,  as  a  watch- 
tower  to  spy  the  doings  of /^r^<£si4AiMS.  The 
town  is  strsggling,  the  streets  dirty  and  silent ; 
the  houses  with  low  balconies  and  rejas  closely 
latticed.  Jalousies  indeed,  worthy  of  the  former 
Moor  and  irritable  hidalgos.  The  port  might 
be  made  excellent ;  but  alas  1  altnough  being 
Gibraltar,  where  all  is  trade,  activity,  order,  and 
iaqNx>vement,  there  are  hera  neither  moles, 
quays,  nor  works  of  defence,  for  the  pasteboard 
fort  and  few  guns  which  we  see  are  only  a  use- 
less show.  There  is  a  /*/««»,  with  a  paltry 
statue  of  CastaHflS,  field-manhal  and  Duke  of 
Baylen,  a  snudl  theatre,  some  barradn,  and  an 
indifferent  church.  Algeciras  might  become, 
from  its  situation,  one  of  the  most  flourishii^ 
ports  in  Spain ;  there  is  soone  trade  with  Africa 
and  the  ports  on  the  coast,  the  exports  and  im- 
ports averaging  some  ;C^ooo  annually.  The 
oranges  of  Algeciras  are  exquisite,  and  next  to 
them  the  greatest  attraction  here  is  the  fiur  sex, 
who  are  celebrated  for  their  beauty : 

EUe  est  jsone  comma  une  orange, 
£Ba  est  viva  comma  un  oiseau. 

A,  d»  Muuit. 


There  is  a  decent  inn  near  the  beach,  '  La 
Fonda  Francesa.'  The  road  between  thk  and 
Tarifo  is  wild  and  beantiAil,  and  from  the  hills 
the  view  sweeps  over  the  bay,  to  the  proud  and 
ma^talac  PtMom  de  Gibmltar,  the  cork-tree 
forest  (alcornoques),  the  boOing  GusdahnacJl 
rushing  through  and  lighting  it  up  with  flashes 
of  sunlit  water  on  the  left,  and  before  us,  and 
to  the  right,  the  ocean,  unfruling  its  wide  tran- 
quil sheet  of  vrater  between  Africa  and  Europe, 
like  an  illuminated,  gilt-edged  page,  bearmg 
some  of  the  greatest  deeds  of  man :  for  tfiese 
shores  have  witnessed  the  battles  of  Mnnda  and 
Trafidgar,  abo  the  kuidii«  of  the  Berber,  the 
merduuits  of  Tyre  and  Sidon,  the  departure  of 
Columbus,  foreshadowing  the  discovery  of  a 
new  world. 

Tarlflk— PtopL  11,863  inhab.,  W.  of  the  Bay 
of  Gibraltar,  b  the  most  Moorish-looking  town 
in  aU  Spain.  The  wooBen  are  celebrated  for 
theb  grace  and  beauty.  They  wear  the  man- 
tiOa,  as  the  Egyptbns  the  1^  and  KkSbmrkA, 
—and,  at  Lima,  the  tm^euUu,  that  b  leaving 
on^  one  eye  discovered,  of  which  each  flash  b 
a  puBalada  from  whidi  few  are  said  to  rscover. 
It  b  said  to  have  been  built  by  the  Phoenicians, 
and  then  called  Cmrimmm  and  Tmrtttim;  it  be- 
came a  Grede  colony,  and  was  raised  to  a  Ceh- 
nim  LiberHnm  by  the  Romans,  being  colonised 
by  4000  sons  of  Roman  soldiers  and  Danish 
woflsen,  not  dieir  wives,  and  called  ynUrn  TVia- 
tbtdm.  It  obtained  its  present  nasse  from 
Tarif-Ben-Malik,  the  fint  Berber  sheikh  who 
landed  in  Spain.  After  a  lo^gMge  it  was  cap- 
tured, la^s,  by  Sandio  IV.  Alfonso  Pttes  da 
Gtisman,  an  ancestor  of  the  Empress  Euginie, 
was  entrusted  with  its  defence.  It  was  besieged 
by  the  Moor%  akied  by  the  treachcreus  Inbata  < 
Don  Juan,  who,  to  cause  Don  AUbaso  to  sur- 
render, brought  the  fetter's  son  to  the  foot  of  the 
walb,  and  threatened  to  kill  him  if  hb  fitther 
did  not  give  up  the  dty;  seeing  which  Don 
Alfonso,  according  to  the  old  ballad— 

Luego  tomando  d  cuchHlo, 
Per  dma  d  mure  lo  ha  erhadot 
Junto  cayd  dd  real 
De  que  Tarifo  as  cercndo^ 
DUo :  '  Matadio  oon  esta, 
Sulo  habeb  determinado, 
Que  mas  quiero  henra  sin  h^o. 
Que  1h)o  oon  ad  honor  Bsanchada* 


The  son  was  put  to  death,  but  the  Moors  retired, 
and  Tarifo  was  saved.  But  the  story,  as  ob- 
tkuied  from  the  '  Ilustradones  de  la  Casa  de 
Niebla'ofBarrantesMaklonado<Biblk>t  Acad. 
Hist  of  Madrid),  and  other  anthentk  soorocs, 
reconciles  us  with  the  fother's  herdsm.  Tha 
celebrated    battle   of   Si  SmUdf^    betwvta 


94 


CADIZ — ROUTEa 


tb«  king!  of  CtitOe  and  Portugal  against 
the  Moor%  took  place  under  its  walls.  Its 
ok!  walls  and  gates,  and  tweatf<«x  towers, 
its  narrow  winding  streets,  low  houses,  balconies 
full  of  llower-vaaes,  are  all  Oriental*  aovd,  and 
pictnrssque.  The  ,Gunnan  Castle  will  tempt 
thesketcher. 

The  panoraout  from  the  Tower  of  PeMm  M 
CiiSrrsw  is  among  the  grandest  in  Spain.    Africa 

a  little  to  the  right,  Tsri£s 
out  into  the  open  sea  on  the  left,  at  a 
distance,  and  the  headlsnd  yonder  to  the  right 
is  Cape  Trafalgar.  After  crossing  Venta  de 
TaiviUa,  a  mfle  inland  is  the  Lmgmm  ^ 

Here  the  Berbers  first  met  the  disorganised 
armies  of  Roderick,  the  last  of  the  Goths,  July 
19^  711 ;  the  action  not  being  decided  t31  the 
a6th,  on  the  Guadalete^  near  Jeres.  After 
crossing  Vcjer,  the  Moorish  Btkktr,  whkh  re- 
tains all  its  African  charactcf  and  comfccts,  the 
scenery  becomss  monotonous  and  dreary.  We 
come  in  sight  of  the  Cabo  de  Thi&lgar  (7Vm{^ 
ml-^kkr^  the  promontory  of  the  cav^,  and  Pr^- 
tmmttrimm  JmmmU  (dthm  Romans.  In  these 
waters  took  place,  Oct  ei,  1805,  the  celebrated 
bottle  of  Thifidgar.  Nelson,  at  the  head  of 
twenty-seven  small  ships  of  the  line  and  four 
frigates,  encountered  the  French  fleet  under 
VtUeneureand  the  Spanish  under  Gravina,  both 
of  dnrty-three  saS  of  the  line,  and  seven  frigates. 
The  secret.of  the  victory  hy  in  Nelson's  novel 
omaoeuvring,  an  inspiration  of  genius.  He 
divided  hb  fleet  into  two  compart  columns,  so 
as  to  bear  at  once  on  the  same  point  of  resistance. 
He  thus  succeeded  in  breaking  the  line  of  battle 
of  ViOeneuve,  who,  as  wellasGravina,  had  scat- 
tared  his  ships,  isolating  them  too  much  from 
each  other.  The  fighting  on  all  sides  was  avtst 
heroic.  Ndson  was  mortally  wounded,  and 
died  s}  hours  after  receiving  his  wound,  but 
lived  long  enough  to  see  hb  triumph.  On  lus 
deadibed,  Gravina  (who  died  shortly  after  fipom 
his  wounds)  told  Dr.  PeDowe*  that  he  was  goii« 
to  Join  Nelson,  the  '  greatest  man  the  world  has 
ever  prouuce<L 

Ohlolana,  and  on  to  Cadia.  See  No.  a  Itiner- 
ary. Sleep  at  Vejcr ;  a  decent  inn  near  the 
bridge  over  the  Bariiate.  The  journey  can  be 
performed  in  two  days. 

Gibraltar  to  Los  Baiiios  3 

Venta  deOj^    ....  si 

Venta  Lobalbanro        ...  1 

Tstvina I 

Rcttn I 

Vejcr aft 

.       .       •  5 


San  Fernando 
Cadis  .       . 


9 

I 


It  has  been  performed  in  one  long  day,  trot- 
ting part  of  the  journey,  but  can  be  Msily  ridden 
in  two^  sleeping  at  Casavi^  Leave  Gibral- 
tar at  7.30 ;  if  much  luggage,  send  pack-lyMse 
earlier  to  Spanish  custom-house  with  keys,  to 
avoid  delay.  Follow  the  beach;  avoid  San 
Roque,  leave  Algedrns  to  the  left,  and  make 
for  Rio  Gnadarranque,  along  a  tramway  con- 
structed to  carry  timbor  to  the  arsenal  of  Car- 
racas  from  the  Sierra  de  Almotayma.  By  is 
at  noon  get  to  Venta  and  stream  de  la  Pdvor- 
eda,  which  is  good  4I  leagues  from  Gibraltar. 
Lunch  in  the  wood  or  at  the  tidy  little  Venta, 
and  get  in  between  five  and  six  to  the  Gil  Bias 
sortdTinnatCasavicjafOntheBarijate.  Around 
this  hamlet  diere  is  excellent  shooting;  and  offi- 
cers of  the  garrison  at  Gibraltar  often  visit  it. 
Leave  next  morning  at  eight ;  V^er  is  seen  in 
the  distance  to  the  left,  whidi  is  not  worth  visit- 
ing, and  about  11.30  to  is  A.M.  get  to  foot 
of  the  baton  which  <MAfM«.rM^iwia  rises:  ihr. 
to  ascend.  This  oU  town,  the  AsuU  of  the 
Romans,  and  Mtdimmtm  Schidmmak,  the  city 
of  Sidon,  or  Phoenician  Asidon,*was  a  stronghold 
during  tlie  wars  between  the  Moors  and  Chris- 
tians, and  the  court  of  the  puissant  dukes  of  the 
same  name  (now  better  known  as  Marqueses  de 
VJIIafrsncsX  ob«  of  whom  commanded  the  In- 
vincible Armada.  The  ruins  ofiu  Castle  de  la 
Mota  are  associsfed  with  eariy  amorous  Span- 
ish ballads.  Here  was  confined  the  fiivourite 
of  Alfrmso  XI.,  and  here  also  Pedro  d  Crud 
shut  up  the  frur  and  ill-fated  Blanche  de  Bour- 
bon. 

But,  except  for  its  pictoresque,  airy  situation, 
we  do  not  advise  traveOers  to  visit  it  Its 
churches  are  duossy,  its  streets  narrow,  steeps 
and  dirty.  Ladies  amy  be,  perhaps,  glad  to 
know  that  they  amy  leave  tbor  horses  here,  if 
they  dioose,  and  take  a  cmlnm  on  springs,  and 
a  small  diL  leaves  also  for  La  Isia  (office,  Calle 
San  JuanX  daily  in  summer,  and  in  winter  only 
on  Mondays,  Wednesdays,  and  Fridays.  The 
road  is  excellent  to  ChicUna.  From  Medina  to 
La  Isia,  4hrs. 

Chkimmm.—'^oa^  inhab. ;  an  old  Phoenician 
town,  conquered  from  the  Moors  by  St  Ferdi- 
nand, in  XS51,  and  rdwilt  by  Alfonso  Peres  de 
Gusmaa,  1303.  There  are  some  sulphureous 
baths  at  Fuente  Amarga  and  Poao  de  Braqtie, 
between  June  and  October.  It  is  a  frivourite 
resort  with  the  Cadis  lower  classes,  and  a  great 
buU-fighting  centre,  being  the  /a/rie  of  the 
cakbrafed  Oiidalnero,  Montes*  rival    There 


CADIZ — THE  CITY. 


9} 


BBuHbuKi  (o  the  HUlon  u  Li  IiU  (Su  Ft 
■udo),  I  hr.  A  Cunleh,  iiKtiHlin|  Ingfait, 
OH  Hi  Ij.  A'.A— Tbcn  *n  lerai  u  *i(ht 
niH  BHlir  fim  Sub  Fcnundg  u  CUb  i  da- 


CmUi  U  odb  of  thi  moat  charmingl; 
ritutted  atiet  io  tfai  would.  It  Im  at 
one  cxtmnjtf  of  ■  long  paunnUk,  Mid 
li  joined  to  tha  eontjiinit  on  tbs  S.  bj 
»  Terr  nuTWr  itrip  of  Und.  It  ruo^ 
M  the  poet  nfi,  over  the  dirk  bine 
•ea,  H  if  by  ■  fairy'i  wand,  with  it* 
■hiiiiiig  wbits  walli,  id  long  raw*  of 
elegant  hooies,  crowded  with  tensccB, 
with  gliM  and  gilt  balconied  mindorea. 
In  the  cental  rise  the  high  tower*  of  ila 
MthedraL  It  may  be  compand  to  a 
white  pcari  wt  in  a  erawn  of  aapphina 
and  enwTald%  or,  13  the  Oaditanoa  call 
H,  '  taiita  de  plata, '  a  ailTar  cnp,  jiut 
a*  Babylon  waa  likened  to  a  cup  of 
pld  (Jer.  IL  7).  Walk  round  ita  granite 
ranparta,  the  MnralU  del  Mar,  a  leriea 
of  ipadon  tcrracea,  which  fom  a  de^ 
Ji^tfnl  evening  jnum;  Mil  acroaa  it* 


bnty  bay,  the  Antline*  of  which  have 
the  greatest  bean^  ;  traTene  ita  (ta«eta, 
Dutch — dean,  and  formed  by  high, 
brightly  -coloured,  and  gay  ■  looking 
hoosee,  wiUi  aioteai  or  terrace*,  and 
a  turret  oftentime*  or  belvedere  at  an 
ang1&  There  ia  moTement  and  life 
on  the  qnay^  port,  and  in  the  town. 
C*di^  once  the  emporiam  of  the  world, 
moat,'  from  Ita  very  ajtoation,  recorer 
■ome  day  part  at  leaat  of  ita  former 
proapari^.  By  the  ocean  it  commnni- 
eatci  with  Portugal,  the  Oallicion 
porta,  France,  England,  Holland,  and 
ia  one  of  the  European  porta  neareet 
to,  and  beat  placed  for,  the  trade  with 
America.  By  the  ataaits  it  ia  in  the 
neighboorbood  of  the  principal  ports 
of  If orocco,  Algiers,  Italy,  the  eatt 
and  south  of  France.  A  lengthened 
niidence  in  Cadii  may,  in  the  end, 
appear  monotonon*  to  the  invalid  and 
trnveller,  a*  there  ia  but  little  aodety, 
and,  oonaeqnently,  no  great  Tariety  ol 
bcea,  topics  of  conreraation,  or  those 
petty  eTenta  which  are,  after  all,  '  la 
grands  affaire'  of  the  man  of  pIcMnr*. 
Some  intimate  tertnliaa  at  the  hos- 
pitable menihanta'  houses,  tha  play  at 
the  tolenble  thvtre,  and  a  chit-chat 
or  almost  wlihuy  lecture  at  the  com- 
fortable casino ;  a  ball,  perhaps  two 
anbsciiption  dances  at  the  casino,  ez- 
cumoDS  to  Puerto  Sta.  Idaria,  Jerea, 
Bota,  etc— thii  is  aU  that  must  be 
expected.  For  there  ia  little  art  1  the 
architectnn  of  houaea,  churcha,  and 
public  ediEcea  ia  moatly  modem,  paint- 
ing are  rare,  and,  *■  the  witty  Ftench- 

aaid,  'id  le*  lettna  de  cbsage 
aont  tea  belles  lettrta,'  and  the  only 

of  lettetB  one  cam  t«  ace  i*  the 
nan,  el  earUro.     But  Cadii.  in  a 

positive  aenae,  aflorda  many  com- 
forta,  which  oontinned  intrrroarae  with 
foreignen,  especially  English,  ha*  in- 
troduced, and  that  an  unknown  in  the 
more  inland  and  larger  Spanish  dtiea. 


96 


OADIZ. 


H18TOBIOAL  NoncB.— Cadix  wu  the 
'ultima  terns,'  the  Biblical  Tanhiah. 
the  fortunate  Erythrea  and  Island  01 
Jnno^  the  happy  Iberian  region  of 
Homer,  Anacreon,  etc  It  is  coigec- 
tnred  that  shortly  after  the  destmotion 
of  Troy,  some  Phoenician  traders  sailed 
in  search  of  new  d^bonch^  along  the 
coast  of  the  Mediterranean,  and  came 
as  far  as  Cadiz.  Here,  they  thought, 
were  the  limits  of  the  world,  and  here, 
probably,  almost  ended  the  sea,  Africa 
being  separated  from  the  European  con- 
tinent by  a  Tery  narrow  channel ;  they 
therefore  erected,  mere  tua,  two  high 
pyramids,  on  the  promontories  of  Aby- 
k  (CeuU)  and  Caipe  (Gibraltar),  ex- 
tending in  subseqnent  times  their  jour- 
ney as  far  as  Q^dir.  Gftddir  now 
became  an  important  trading  port  A 
magnificent  temple  was  erected  to  the 
Lybian  Hercules.  .GIddir,  when  the 
Carthaginians  became  powerful,  be- 
trayed its  ruleni^  siding  with  the 
former.  It  fell  likewise  an  easy  prey 
to  the  Romans.  The  first  colonia  was 
established  171  B.  a  C«sar  considered 
its  situation  most  important,  fortified 
it,  and  made  it  the  hetA  of  Tingitane, 
or  TVanspetane  Spain ;  its  inhabitants 
enjoyed  bH  the  pririleges  of  free  Roman 
citizens,  and  it  was  called  Augusta  Urbs, 
and  JuUa  Gaditana.  Cadiz  and  Serille 
were  then  important  naval  arsenals. 
Cssar  says :  *  NaTes  longas  decem 
Gaditanis  ut  (acerent  imperavit ;  com- 
plures  prvterea  Hispali  faciendas  ou- 
ravit'  Under  the  Romans  Cadiz  be- 
came tho  emporium  of  the  world ;  its 
salt-fish  monopoly,  most  of  the  tin  of 
England  and  amber  of  the  Baltic,  its 
marble  palaces,  amphitheatres,  and  aque- 
ducts (that  of  Terapul  especially) ;  its 
YiaLata,  which  went  to  Rome  by  Seville, 
Merida,  Ciudad  Rodrigo,  Salamanca, 
Leon,  south  of  France  and  Italy;  its 
merchant  princes,  its  fleets  of  war  and 
of  commerce,  hare  all  been  sung  by 


the  poets  of  Rome,  and  praised  by  itc 
writers.  It  was  the  Venice  of  medi»yal 
Europe,  the  Paris  of  our  days,  was  in- 
habited by  600  Roman  equites,  which 
Rome  alone  and  Padua  could  boast  of 
possessing— more  the  city,  say  Martial 
and  JuTcuoal,  of  Venus  than  of  Diana, 
the  gastronomic  punreyor  of  the  Lu- 
culli  and  other  Brlllat  Sayarins  of 
Rome,  renowned  for  its  ballet-girls, 
the  improba  OadUtuuB,  whose  more- 
ments  turned  erery  head. 

In  the  6th  centuiy  it  fell  into  the 
hands  of  the  Gk)ths,  and  in  the  8th  into 
those  of  the  Arabs,  who  called  it  Djezi- 
ri^-Klulis,  and  retained  it  in  their  power 
for  upwards  of  600  years.  It  was  retaken 
by  Don  Alfonso  the  Learned,  September 
14,  1262,  rebuilt  by  him,  and  peopled 
with  families  brought  from  the  moun- 
tains of  Santander,  Laredo^  etc.,  a  sad 
mixture  with  the  Attic  'Sal  de  Anda- 
lucia. *  Its  prosperity  reyired  with  the 
disooTery  of  America,  being  made  with 
Seville  the  entrepOt  of  its  gold  and 
merchandise.  In  1509,  Queen  Dofia 
Juana,  by  suppressing  the  monopoly 
which  Seville  enjoyed  of  sending  fleets 
to  the  Indies,  added  greatly  to  its  wealth 
and  importance,  and  Barbarossa,  at  the 
head  of  a  fleet  of  piratical  galleys,  at- 
tacked the  city,  goi^ged,  as  he  knew, 
with  gold.  It  was  saved  by  Doria's 
activity ;  but  the  pirates  of  Algiers  and 
Morocco  never  lost  sight  of  the  treasure, 
and  attacked  it  oftentimes  after,  espe- 
cially in  1558  and  1574,  when  it  was 
almost  taken,  and  saved  only  by 
chance — ^that  Providence  of  fools  and 
the  imprudent  In  1587  Cadiz  was 
attacked  by  Drake,  who  destroyed  its 
ships  and  dockyards,  and  was  cruelly 
sacked  in  1596  by  Lord  Essex,  the 
booty  amounting  to  thirteen  ships  of 
war,  and  forty  enormous  galleons  loaded 
with  American  gold,  etc  Two  subse- 
quent English  attacks,  in  1625  and 
1702,  failed  before  a  well-armed  gar- 


OADIZ — OLDCATB. 


97 


rison,  and  throo^  fll-planned  and 
wotBb  ezecatad  muoBaTTet.  During 
the  Peniiisoltt  wtr»  Oidis  was  mada 
the  ontre  of  the  Spaniah  re8iataiioa» 
and  aeat  of  ita  oelebrated  Cortea.  Ita 
wealth  and  oommeieial  importanoe  were 
▼ery  greats  erm  aa  recently  aa  the  mid- 
dle and  end  of  the  laat  century.  ETery 
hanking  and  mercantile  honae  in  the 
l^dbe  had  ita  agenta  here.  Adam  Smith, 
in  1770,  wrote  that  the  inerchanU  of 
London  had  not  yet  the  meana  to  com- 
pete with  the  wealth  of  thoae  of  Oadix. 
In  1702,  the  gold  and  ailrw  imported 
tnm  America  to  thia  port  amonnted  to 
1S5  milliona ;  the  general  impoitationa 
heing  that  year  (from  AmerioA  alone) 
176  milUona.  Its  arsenal  employed 
Qpwarda  of  6000  men,  and  the  '  Galea' 
or  *Oallice'  of  the  Engliah  enjoyed  a 
wcrid-wide  reputation.  The  war  of 
170S  waa  the  first  blow  dealt  to  ita 
prosperity;  the  independence  of  the 
Spaniah  colonies,  the  second ;  French 
invasion,  intrignes,  and  dril  war  hsTS 
done  the  reet  But  ita  importance  not 
depending  on  the  whim  of  a  monarch 
or  the  c^rice  of  an  hour,  hat  resting  on 
the  more  adid  adTsntagea  and  faroors 
of  aitoation  and  climate^  will,  we 
have  no  donbt,  come  back,  when  rail- 
ways reUgioiia  tolerance,  and  Aosm^ 
not  fomgn  colonisation  haTS  borne 
their  froit 

Oliniate.— OMlis  lies  open  to  erery 
wind,  which  consequently  exposes  it  to 
sudden  and  frequent  ohangea  in  the 
temperature.  The  most  preralentwinda 
come  from  the  sea.  According  to  D. 
Frandfl^  the  land*winda,  ran^ng  be- 
tween K.  to  S.S.,  prerailed  during  100 
days  and  the  aea  winds  (aaW.  by  W.) 
during  240  days, — baaed  on  6  yeara* 
dbaerrationa.  The  maximum  prera- 
lence  of  the  aea  winda  ia  during  the 
spring:  the  land  winda  reach  it  in  win- 
ter. Their  influence  on  the  thermo- 
meter is  indifierent ;  they  give  tone  to 


phlfigmatifi  constitutions,  sndlsst  some- 
times fiTS  or  six  daya.  The  Leranter, 
soft  and  inirigofating  at  HeJaga  and 
Yalenda,  ia  here  hui^tftal  to'  weidc  con- 
stitutions, and  precursory  of  storms  snd 
rain.  The  airocco  (S.S.)  ia  as  bad,  and 
the  thermometer  rises  under  its  in- 
fluence six  to  seren  degrees.  The 
nerroos  system  is  exdt^  irritated, 
and  the  dok  sufier  greatly  during  ita 
preralence. 

But  as  totemperaturs  Cadis  ia  supe- 
rior to  any  medical  atation  both  in  Italy 
and  Spain.  *The  mean  temperature  of 
winter,'  aaya  Dr.  Francis  'is  four  de- 
grees warmer  than  Bome  or  Naples  sod 
six  than  that  of  Pisa.  The  same  may 
be  said  of  spfin§^  the  temperature  oif 
which  being  00*28  Fahr.,  exceeds  that 
of  Bome  and  Pisa  by  three  degrees  and 
two ;  the  mean  diurnal  range  ia  ten, 
being  identical  with  Madeira.'  Sum- 
mer is  rery  tderabls  owing  to  the 
constant  aea-breeaes  and  Uie  tem- 
perature ia  as  soft  and  warm  in  the 
end  of  February  aa  it  ia  in  the  end 
of  March  in  the  most  IsToured  of  other 
Spaniah  medical  stations.  Autumn  is 
less  subject  than  other  aeaaona  to  sud- 
den changes  and  as  to  winter,  Decem- 
ber and  January,  the  coldest  winds 
nerer  bring  down  the  thermometer 
under  41*  Fahr. 

Oadis  is  more  rainy  tlian  any  part  of 
the  Mediterranean  coast  of  SpaLi,  but 
this  statement  need  not  deter  infalids 
inm  choosing  it  as  a  reaidencs  for  the 
aTsrage  number  of  rainy  days  is  90,  the 
quantity  of  rain  22  in.,  and  at  Madeira 
Ae  fnawltfiiy  of  rain  exceeds  cemtUmmU^ 
that  at  Oadis  thou^  it  ianot  so>W- 
quemL  It  aeldom  lasts  here  but  a  (ew 
hours  Attd,  aa  Lee  and  others  mjt  is 
made  up  of  ahowers  with  intamJa  of 
sunshine.  A  eurioas  fiiet  ariaes  from 
the  compartiTO  study  of  rain  in  Rngland, 
Italy,  and  Spain— rii.  that  while  the 
rainy  daya  in  En^^and  are  more  frequent* 


98 


CADIZ. 


the  jTiMNiltfVy  thftt  iidlf  is  grmter  in  Itdj 
and  Spain.  Inawofd^Cadisiioneoftlie 
moat  fityonred  medical  atationf  in  Spain, 
and  that  which  unites  most  adTantages 
to  general  inyalids.  Its  defects  aie^ 
Tsriabilitj  and  the  sirooco,  hat  these  do 
not  affect  constitations  seriously,  except 
in  cases  of  irritable  nenronsness.  The 
water  is  not  good,  which  is  for  some  a 
great  drawback.  Where  great  weak- 
ness and  emaciation  prerail,  and  in  the 
adTanoed  stages  of  phthisiB,  the  mor- 
tality rate  was  1-28.  In  1800,  of  2498 
deaths,  20  were  sged  between  01  and 
100.  In  1802,  56  died  aged  between 
01  and  upwards  of  100.  The  death 
rate  1-34. 

Hotals.«l.  Hotel  de  Pari%  one  of 
the  best  in  Spain,  kept  by  Menrs.  Fal- 
lola,  the  proprietors  and  managers  of 
the  Madrid  Grand  HOtel  de  Pai^  etc 
The  look-out  is  not  good,  and  it  is 
situated  in  the  centre  ci  the  town ;  but 
the  rooms  are  most  comfortable^  attend- 
ance excellent^  and  cooking  very  good. 
Charges  moderate— 40r.  to  60r.  (meals 
included),  on  1st  floor;  80r.  on  2d; 
Uble  d'hote  at  6.80, 14r.  a  head;  winea 
indifferent  *  Gallgnani '  and  French 
papers  taken  in. 

2.  Hotel  Blanco ;  Tiews  on  the  bay 
and  sea.  A  spacious  patio— old,  too 
old  established. .  Charges  high. 

LoDOiKO-Housis.— Oalle  de  San 
Al^andro^ ,  kept  by  Messrsi  Stanleyt 
and  at  117  Calle  del  Baluarte,  Juan 

MufiOE. 


Gunages  of  the  fint-daai  (bife  caliches) :« 

Fintbour 

Second  and 

Nocoune. 
Carnages  of  the 

Fintbour 

Second  and 


isr. 


IF- 

lor. 


.  Hired  horses  may  be  had  at  Kl 
Picadoo  and  Juan  PedroX  Plssa  de 
San  Anton. 


Tblboraph  Offics.— Open  daily,  at 
the  Custom-house.    - 

PoBT  Offiob.— Admin.  Prindpal, 
Calle  Bnxique  de  las  Marinas.  The 
hours  depend  on  those  of  trains,  which 
Tsryagooddeal.  Open  from  8  a.m.  to 
2  P.M.,  and  from  6  p.m.  to  7  p.m.  for 
listas^  apartado  and  fkanqueo  of  foreign 
newspapers ;  from  8  to  0  a.m.,  and  fit>m 
12  to  2  and  6  to  7  p.m.  for  registered 
letters.  The  foreigners'  list  is  open 
from  8  A.M.  to  2  P.M.,  and  fit>m  6  p.m. 
to  sunset  There  are  boxes  also  at  the 
railway  stations,  Plasa  de  la  libertad, 
Oalle  del  Bosario^  San  Fernando,  etc 
Cadii^  Serille,  and  Jeres  Bailway  Com- 
pany OiBce  in  Plasa  de  la  Constitueion, 
16.  Luggage  is  registered,  tickets  de- 
liTored,  etc,  onmibuses  obtained. 

Ta&iff  fob  Boats.— To  and  from 
steamer^  4r.  a  person,  8r.  a  portman- 
teau. Pay  the  porters,  called  here  de- 
mandaderos,  for  a  portmanteau  carried 
from  mole  to  custom-house,  4r. ;  tnm 
custom-house  to  any  part  of  town,  2r. 
each  parcel 

Stbamxbs  to  Moguer,  8hrB.;  ditto 
to  HuelTa,  0  hrs.  Neither  are  of  great 
interest  Palo%  a  port  near  Moguer,  ia 
celebrated  for  the  courent  of  la  Rabida, 
which  reoeiTed  Columbus  in  1484,  and 
whose  prior,  Peres  de  Marchena,  en- 
couraged him  to  follow  his  plans  and 
ideas.  Columbus  having  discovered 
America,  returned  to  this  port  March 
16,  1498.  The  oonvent  has  been  very 
much  improved  lately  by  the  Ducde 
Montpensier. 

Thb  Pobt,  Bat,  akd  Tradb.— The 
entrance  to  this  magnificent  bay  lies 
between  tiie  dty  and  tiie  small  town  and 
eape  of  Bota.  The  bay  is  most  spaci- 
ous, and  affords  excellent  anchoiage  in 
the  inner  portion,  the  outer  one  being 
exposed  to  the  S.W.  The  port  is  placed 
on  the  K  side  of  the  town,  where  three 
moles  project— that  of  'Sevilla'  in  fnmt 
of  the  custom-house ;  the  Muelle  del 


CADIZ— <3ATHJa>RALB. 


99 


PmrUPU^  wliick  letdt  into  the  dtj 
through  tiie  Poerta  do  Son  Carlos,  and 
the  'Prindpal,'  doae  to  the  Puerto  de 
Tierra»  another  of  the  four  prindpal 
entruioea  to  Cadis  (the  two  others  are 
Puerto  de  Serilla  and  Puerto  de  la 
Caleta,  whioh  leads  to  the  castle  and 
li^thoose  (aw.  of  San  Sebastian).  This 
Ptineipal  is  of  considerable  extent^  and 
has  been  recently  prolonged  by  some 
660  ft  The  water  is  not  soffidently 
deep  to  allow  large  Tessels  to  approach 
nearer  than  I  of  a  mile,  where  fire  and 
seren  fSithoms  are  reached.  There  are 
some  dangerons  rooks  opposite  the  town; 
the  'Coohinos'and  'Pueroas'lie  fths 
of  a  mile ;  the  'Diamante'  liea  1)  m. 
off  the  dty,  and  is  not  so  dangeroos. 
At  spring-tide  the  water  rises  10  or  11 
ft,  but  often  does  not  exceed  6  ft  The 
inner  bay  is  dirided  naturally  fit>m  the 
enter  one  by  the  promontory,  baring  at 
ito  extremity  the  castle  of  Katsgo^ 
which  approaches  within  f  of  a  mile  of 
the  Puntales  castle  on  the  Isla  de  Leon. 
In  the  inner  portion  is  the  arsenal  of 
Carracas,  and  the  small  *  Pobladon  ds 
San  Carlos,*  a  naval  dep6t,  established 
1776^  on  the  plans  of  Marq.  de  Ure&a. 
Here  is  a  fine  naval  college,  and  the 
Panteon  de  ICarinos  Ilustres,  the  Alpha 
and  Omega,  the  cradle  and  the  tomb. 
In  ito  chapel  are  presenred  an  image  of 
the  Viigen  dd  Roterio,  which  Don 
Juan  of  Austria  carried  on  his  galley  at 
Lepanto,  and  a  chalice  with  his  crest 
and  arms.  Here  is  also  the  canal  of 
Trooadero^  odebrated  for  the  victoiy  of 
Duke  ofAjigoul^e  in  1828.  The  trade 
is  gradually  reWying;  railroads  com- 
municating with  central  Spain,  new 
lines  of  steamers  plying  between  the 
prindpal  Spanish  and  foreign  ports, 
manufactories  arising  here  and  there, 
banks  and  credit  companies  bdng  daily 
estobUshed,  will  tend  to  increase  it 
The  custom-house  returns  were,  in  1862, 
•boat  £190,000.    The  diips  entered  in 


1862  numbered  6098  (between  large 
and  small),  fonning  a  total  of  692,667 
ton%  and  carrying  84»669  passengers. 
Of  the  above  there  were  261  British 
diips,  96,604  tons  in  all,  and  202 
French.  In  1866,  866  &ig)ish  diips 
entered  the  port^  with  caigoes  of 
£9,646^486  ;  and  187  &ig)ish  ships 
sailed  from  Cadis  with  cargoes  of 
£74,486.  28,480  tons  of  coals  were  im- 
ported from  Kngiand.  The  prindpal 
exports  are  dierries  and  salt ;  of  tho 
former,  64,616  butto  were  exported  in 
1866,  and  of  the  latter,  98,168  tons. 
In  1862  the  salt  exports  amounted  to 
4,062,828  ianegas. 

Bights.— Cathedral  (the  old  and 
new);  Convent  de  los  Capuchinos  (Mu« 
rillos) ;  excursions  to  Puerto  Sto  Maria, 
Bota,  etc 

Cathbdbal.— The  dd  cathedral.  La 
Yi^a,  now  abandoned  for  the  new  one, 
was  built  in  the  18th  centuiy,  in  Alfonso 
II. 's  reign,  and  by  him  erected  to  a 
cathedral,  the  See  of  Sidonia  having 
been  removed  hither  by  a  bull  of  Pope 
Urban  lY.  New  chapeb  were  added 
in  the  16th  and  16th  centuriea.  It  was 
almost  all  destroyed  by  fire  during  the 
sack  of  the  akj  bj  Lord  Essex.  It  was 
immediatdy  repaired,  or  rather  rebuilt, 
and  thirteen  chapeb  erected.  The  edi- 
fice is  low  and  mean,  with  a  fa^e 
of  bastardised  Bevival,  decorated  with 
stotues,  some  of  which  have  been  re- 
moved to  the  new  cathedral  It  is  most 
indifferent 

Cttlcsrti  VwU,  OB  DS  LA.  Santa 
Cruz,  was  begun  1720,  on  the  plans  of 
Messrs.  Acero  and  Cayon,  pupils  of  the 
MM^dled  Salamanca  school,  founded  by 
ChorrigueraandTom4.  The  works  were 
interrupted  frcnn  want  of  funds  till  1882, 
when  they  were  resumed  at  the  expense 
of  the  privy  purse  of  the  lato  most 
virtuous  and  sealous  bishop,  Don  D<^ 
mingo  de  Siloe,  the  edifice  costing 


100 


CADIZ. 


£800,000.  The  style  la  claadeal,  the 
exterior  jdaiii,  not  wentiiig  in  effect; 
the  interior  OTer-omamented,  rmj  chnr- 
rigaereeque  in  itsdeteila^  and  deoonted 
with  predone  merblee  ttom  Genoe,  and 
Jaspers  from  Arooa  and  HanilTa.  It  ia 
of  the  Corinthian  order,  and  measnies 
800  feet  long,  216  feet  wide,  and  189 
feet  to  the  cnpola.  The  tnrreta  outside 
are  207  feet  high.  Some  portions  are 
still  unfinished.  A  high  altar  ia  being 
made  of,  white  marble,  and  ia  to  ooat 
£7000,  of  which  the  qneen  has  giren 
halt  The  paintings  are  few,  and  all 
indifferent ;  a  good  copy  of  one  of  Ma- 
rillo'a  Conoepdones,  Ij  demente  de 
Torres,  and  a  San  Lacaa,  aacribed  to 
Bibera.  The  Costodia  is  Talaed  at 
£10,000.  The  tiUena  dd  earo,  once  in 
the  Oarthnsian  conrent  of  Sta.  Maria 
de  las  Cneraa  of  Serille,  and  then  in 
the  Serflle  Pictare  Gallery,  haa  been 
remored  here  in  1850.  It  is  one  of  the 
finest  in  Spain,  and  tiie  masterpiece  of 
Pedro  Dnqae  Comijo^  a  pnjA  of  Bol- 
dan's.  The  chapels,  relics^  and  jewels 
are  all  indifferent 

Loe  Cafvohinos,  formerly  a  conTent, 
was  bnilt  1641.  The  church  is  unin- 
teresting^ but  contains  paintings  which 
are  gems.  Orer  the  hi^  altar  ia  the 
celebrated  Marriage  of  St  Catharine, 
Murillo's  last  work,  executed  1682,  and 
about  to  be  finished  when  he  fell  from 
the  acaffolding;  dying  ahortly  after. 
Meneaea  Osorio,  at  his  request,  finished 
it  The  San  Juan  Bautista,  St  Michael, 
and  other  minor  subjects,  are  by  Meneses 
Oscrio^  after  deaigna  by  Murillo.  Ob- 
aerre  oTer  a  lateral  altar  a  grand  Mu- 
rillo^ St  Franda  receiTing  the  Stigmata. 
The  head,  hands,  colouring— all  ia  per- 
fect In  the  OapiUa  del  Sagrario  there 
ia  another,  but  inferior  Mivillo^  and  a 
small  ConcepdoiL 

San  Fkltpb  Nxal — A  Concepdon 
orer  hi^  altar,  by  MuriUo,  and  a  Padre 
Stenio^  by  demente  de  Torrea.   In  Los 


Descaslos  some  good  earrings  by  Yer* 
gara  and  Rddan. 

PiOTiTBB  Oallbkt  (El  Mubbo)  in 
Flasa  de  Mina.  Amid  great  rubbish 
obserre  a  good  San  Bruno,  by  Zurbaran ; 
an  admirable  copy  of  Murillo's  Yiigen 
de  la  Fija,  now  tiie  property  of  the  Due 
de Montpender,  byTorar;  aSan Agus- 
tin,  by  Qicfdano ;  and  a  Last  Judgment, 
much  thought  of  here ;  Sight  Monks, 
by  Zurbaran,  from  the  Carti^a  of  Jeres ; 
Tlie  Four  Brangelists,  by  San  Lorenzo ; 
The  Baptist  by  Zurbaran. 

The  other  bnOdings  are  all  indifferent 
El  Carmen  is  churriguereaque.  The  huge 
Aduana  is  out  of  proportions  with  the 
present  trade,  and  out  of  place  in  a  land 
ofamugg^era.  The  Casa  de  Misericordia 
is  a  large  edifice  by  Cayon  ;  aa  a  poor- 
house  it  is  admirably  oiganised. 

Prommuidea,  Thsatrts,  de. — ^Theprin- 
dpal  street  is  the  broad  and  fine  CalU 
Aneha,  lined  with  weU-aupplied  shops. 
The  CfaUa  de  la  Aduema  begins  at 
Plasa  laabd  II.,  and  runs  under  the 
Muralla  dd  Mar,  parallel  to  the  fine 
custom-house  edifice. 

ThePfaaa  deScmAnUmfo  and  de  Mina 
are  the  prindpal  aquarea.  The  Muralla 
del  Mar  is  a  channing  summer  prome- 
nade. Lae  DeHeiae  i  the  winter  paaeo 
from  2  to  180  P.M.,  with  a  band  on  holi- 
days,and  during  thesummerthe  Alameda 
de  Apodaca,  iiom'  6.80  to  0  p.m.,  with 
music  every  night,  the  paaeo  dodng  at 
PlasadeMina.  There  are  two  theatres; 
the  Principal,  which  holds  1400  specU- 
ian,  is  degantiy  fitted  up.  Italian 
operas,  sanrudaa^  and  dramas  are  well 
performed.  TheiKafoisinCalleAncha, 
is  not  so  wen  /rSqueiUi;  comedies, 
dancea,  etc  The  bull-rin^  not  so  faah- 
ionable  aa  that  of  Puerto  de  Sta.  Maria, 
waa  built  by  Montea,  the  king  of  'maea- 
troa.'  The  carnival  is  a  gay  aeaaon,  and 
in  the  Caeiao,  which  is  handsomdy 
fitted  np^  sereral  good  and  well-attended 
subscription  balletake  place.  Foreignsn 


CADIZ. 


101 


are  introdnoed  to  it  bj  thdr  ooDfiila  and 
BMOibflnL 

Difwetory  —  Ckmtuit.'—E,  B.  M,% 
John  M*Plienoii  Brackenlrory,  Eiq.» 
AUmoda  do  Apodaca,  No.  20  (Ohorch 
of  England  •arrioe  on  Sundaya  at  tho 
Oonanlate).  There  ia  alao  a  «Proteatant 
borial-gronnd.  At  Algeiiraa,  Geoige 
0.  Qlynn,  Eiq.^Y.a  ;  Pta  Sta.  liaria, 
a  Campbell,  Esq. ;  a  Philip^  Eiq.,  at 
Sanlnoar;  D.  Kroo.  Fraada,  Eaq.,  at 
San  Boqne ;  D.  Joa6  Lobaton  at  Yeger. 
Framee^  M.  BenedettL  Portugal,  D. 
Joa6  Siteban  Gomei.  JSiMtio,  IL  de 
Fehleiaen,  0.  QeneraL 

Dodon,  —  Ceballoi,  Boaario^  12— 
apeaka  Fkvnoh ;  D.  Bastamente. 

ApothMory.  —  Del  Correo^  Calle 
Cofreo. 

Bamkmr$,  —  Means.  John  Duncan 
Shaw,  correfpondents  of  Hessrs.  Herries 
andFarqiihar,OdleIaabel  laCatolioa  11. 

Oun  ifiidco.— Plaia  lOna,  7. 

OmUs  is  oelebrated  for  fans,  ladiea' 
ahoea,  ^ores,  and  guitars.  Spanish 
music,  guitan^  oastagnettes^  may  be 
purchased  at  Quirrell'%  17  Bosario; 
lana,  Yilleta,  comer  of  Calle  Juan  de 
Andas;gloTes  in  Calle  Tetnan.  ModuU, 
La  Fannj,  Calle  Yestuario  16  and  20. 
TaOar,  Calle  de  Muiguia  26  and  26. 
MttMrmttr,  Cort^  Calle  Duque  de 
Tetuan  18.  Shomnakmrf  Bertrand,  7 
Calle  del  Duque  de  Tetuan.  Cfigon, 
a  large  dep6t  with  samples  of  the  best 
Habana  weeds  in  6  Calle  da  linarea. 
Bathi,  Call^on  del  Tinte  No.  1  (7r., 
all  included).  Silks,  linen,  ICanik 
ahawls,  Calle  Cristobal,  Colon  Noa.  17, 
19.  Caniages  to  hire  at  Juan  Pedro's, 
Plaia  de  San  Anton,  and  at  Lat  Deli- 
das.  The  best  are  at  Arana's,  PUia 
de  la  Constitudon  16,  Calle  San  Joa6 
86,  and  CaUe  Ancha,  8. 

EcmaopatMie  iXipsiiaary.— CaUe  de 
Yiodas  No.  1,  ground-floor.  Open 
dailj,  fromll  A.M.tolp.M.  only.  Dr. 
Moimle^  6  CbUe  San  lOgueL 


Sea-bathing  at  Muelle  de  la  Pnerta 
deSerilla. 

3ook$eUen.'^'Dt  la  Barista  Medica, 
Plata  de  la  Constitudon  11.  A  dep6t 
of  maps,  plans,  general  stationerj.  Es- 
pa&ola  J  Extni^jera,  Plaia  San  Agus- 
tin  4  and  6. 

Fakneian  Amtl^.—Dt^U  at  the 
Calle  Compa&ia  6.  CaUe  Palma  6,  etc 

PMie  omd  PHmU  L(h^orie$  amd 
CbttMMimjL— The  Prorindal,  26,000, 
publio  admittance  daflj,  and  that  of  the 
Biahopric,  numbering  2000  Tolnmea. 
Dr.  Elisalde  possesses  one  of  the  most 
complete  oonchological  colIectionB  in 
Spain,  among  them  aereral  fossQ  shells; 
admittance  easily  obtained  on  applica- 
tion with  card,  CsUe  Aduana  2L  Sr. 
Chape's  Herbal  contains  specimens  of 
the  flora  of  this  prorince,  Calle  Balu- 
arte  No.  8.  There  are  few  picture 
galleries ;  that  of  Sr.  T^}ada,  27  Odle 
Doblones,  contains  some  good  pictures 
of  tiie  Italian,  German,  and  old  Spanish 
schools.  Se&or  D.  Joa6  Cssanora,  Cslle 
Descalsas  Na  4— a  Piedad  of  MuriUo; 
a  Child,  d  NiAo  de  la  Espina,  bj  Zur- 
baran ;  a  Crudfijdon,  astvibed  to  Yan 
Dyck  (f ),  and  a  Marine,  by  Enrique  de 
laa  Marinas.  8.  D.  Manuel  Femandei, 
Calle  dd  Bocario  17,  possesses  some 
originals— an  Ascendon,  and  St  Joseph, 
by  AL  Cano,  a  Concepdon,  of  Mu- 
rillo's,etc. 

Sr.  CerrerSy  Ya]d4s,CsUe  San  Fran- 
dsoo  21,  has  a  good  collection  of  arms. 
See  a  magnificent  sword  of  Charlea  Y., 
by  Belmonte^  and  aereral  bj  the  most 
oelebrated  Toledo  armourers^  such  as 
Julian  dd  Bey,  Tomas  de  Ayala,  etc, 
the  Qeiman  Ca^  etc 


SxooraioBS. — To  Puerto  de  Stc 
Maria,  conTeyanoes  two  and  thres  times 
a-day;  steamers  IsaTO  near  the  nUway 
station,  Puerto  dd  Mar,  6r.  and  8r.;  it 
ia  2  leagues  by  sea.    By  rail,  18|  m.. 


102 


CADIZ — XNVIRON& 


1ft  cL,  lOr.;  2d  oL,  8r.;  8d  d.,  6r.; 
in  1(  br. ;  Atb  trmint  a-daj.  Inm$. — 
Yifta-Al^greandLaToiTe;  population, 
21,714 ;  on  right  bank  of  the  Qoadalete. 
It  was  the  Qraek  port  of  Mneathea. 
TUa  small,  dean,  nninteresting  dtjr  is 
▼ery  popular  with  the  migos  and  bull- 
fighters.  ItBpkuadetaroB  holds  10,000 
spectators.  Visit  the  boose  of  Marqn^ 
de  Pnmllena,  whidi  oontains  some  good 
paintings  snd  canring.  Excellent  wine, 
mnch  like  bat  inferior  to  that  of  Xeres, 
is  prodnoed  here.  The  bodegas  are  in- 
teresting. The  prindpal  houses  are 
Thomas  Osborne  k  Co.,  Doff  Oordon, 
Heald,  Qorman,  eto.  San  Ftmando, 
20  minutes  by  rail,  is  also  called  La  Isla 
de  Leon,  and  is  an  island  which  the 
bridge  of  Zuaso  oonnects  to  the  main 
land,  and  orer  which  one  crosses  the 
salted  riTer  of  Sancti  Petri  Obserre 
all  aroond  the  white  snowy  mounds 
shining  in  tiie  sun,  for  here  are  the  salt- 
pans (salinas)  that  bring  in  so  important 
a  rerenue  to  the  state.  The  obserra- 
torj  of  San  Fernando  is  the'  oldest  in 
Spain,  and  ii  well  proiided  with  instru- 
ments, mostly  En^ish  (Froughton  and 
Simms's  and  Newman's). 

Ia  OarrlKoa. — Steamers  twice  a-day, 
in  14  hr.,  and  by  rail  to  San  Fernando^ 
and  then  by  omnibus  (2r.)  LesTC  to 
see  it  easily  granted.  This  is  one  of  the 
most  importont  Goremment  dockyards 
in  Spain,  and  though  considerably  de- 
cayed, is  fast  reoorering  part  at  least  of 
its  former  prosperity.  It  was  esta- 
blished 1700.  Visit  the  Odderaria, 
Arboladura,  Fofja^  Fundidon,  rope- 
walks^  etc  There  are  three  docks,  two 
of  which  can  hold  diips  with  keels  mea- 
suring 280  feet  long.  During  the  work- 
hours  there  are  some  900  men  rarioudy 
employed,  of  whom  800  are  presidarioa. 
The  edifices,  dstems,  etc,  are  all  on  a 
large  soale^  and  its  whole  area  ii  of 
049,680  squsre  Taru. 

To  La  BoUl — By  steamer  to  Puerto 


Sta.  Maria,  whence  oy  special  diL  or 
across  the  bayin  a  sailing  boat,  8  leagues 
hj  sea  and  8  leagues  by  land.  DiL  at 
the  Puerto  in  attendance  on  the  Muellc 
The  wine  called  Tintillade  RoU  is  made 
here,  and  when  pure  and  a&q'o^  is  not 
to  be  despised  by  connoisseurs.  7266 
inhab.  The  interior  of  its  parish  church 
is  Gothic  and  spacioua.  This  Phoeni- 
cian-built town  was  never  of  any  im- 
portance, and  is  dull  and  nninteresting. 

Puerto  Baal. —  By  rail,  |  hr.  ; 
founded  in  1488  by  Queen  Isabdle.  A 
small  Tillage,  all  regularity,  ennui,  and 
dirt ;  a  good  new  basin  for  steamers. 
On  the  fint  days  of  May  there  is  a  hir 
hdd  here^  much  frequented  by  the  lower 
rliisea,  and  abounding  then  in  pictur- 
esque groups,  dresses,  etc 

Sanluoar  (de  Barrameda). — 9  leagues 
by  land  and  7)  by  sea.  A  gondola 
(smdl  Tehide,  and  another  name  for  a 
cart  on  springs)  serrice  between  Puerto 
de  StiL  Maria  and  Sanlncar  dafly,  there 
and  back ;  offices  on  Psseo  dd  Vergd ; 
16r.  beilina,  18r.  interior,  lOr.  imperi- 
de,  in  combination  with  hours  of  trainc 
By  sea,  steamers  about  two  a-week,  lOr. 
and  8r.  Population,  19,948.  It  was 
founded  by  the  AndalusJan  Tartesians 
about  8667  htfan  CkriHt  It  was  re- 
coTcred  from  the  Moors  by  Alfonso  the 
Learned,  who  called  it  San  Lucas,  pUc- 
ing  it  under  the  patronage  of  that  nint 
How  this  is  to  be  reconciled  with  its 
Roman  name,  iMdftr^  is  difficult  to 
guess ;  howcTcr,  the  latter  is  a  motcAto 
the  other  in  puziling  etymdogies.  The 
^p^i^g  anna  an  a  castle  with  a  star 
aboTC,  and  at  the  foot  of  it  a  bull  and 
an  inkstand,  the  attributes  of  St  Luke, 
and  the  motto  '  Ludferi  lani  Senatus.* 
The  climate  is  ddightftil,  and  the  Duo 
de  Montpensier  has  here  a  charming 
summer  rilla.  There  is-  an  andent 
parish  church  of  the  beginning  of  the 
14th  centuiy,  a  good  example  of  Mude- 
jar  architecture.    Obsenre  the  facade,  a 


OABTAOINl. 


los 


rieh  Mooriah  roof  studded  with  ttuB. 
It  wu  Irailt  Vr  Do&a  Isabel  da  la  0«d«. 
It  la  dedicated  to  Our  Ladj  of  the  0. 
There  ia  alao  a  elaaaioal  church  of  San 
Fraooiaoo.  Thewineayia  with  thoaeof 
Xeres  and  tiie  Puerto ;  the  bod^gaa  are 
large  and  cuions,  the  ezporta  oonaider- 
Mb, 

Sxooraion  to  Hi&elTa»  bj  Sea^— 
Xreiy  ten  daja  the  steamer  'Pensa- 
miento'  (adrertiaed  in  local  papera) 
goea  from  Oadis  to  HnelTa  (lOr.),  then  to 
Ayamonte  and  San  lAicar  de  Qnadiana 
onthePortogoeaefrontierain  halfnt-daj ; 
6  hra.  to  the  embouchiire  of  the  Haelym 
riTcr,  formed  by  the  Bio  Tinto  and 
OdieL  The  tour  is  pleaaant,  and  the 
aoenery  fine ;  the  dtiea  most  indifferent 

Budva  ia  a  poor  tradeleas  port^  which, 
fit>m  its  sitoatioa  and  natural  advan* 


AffotmmU  ia  a  doll  fishing-TiUsge  on 
the  dopes  of  a  hill  which  owlooks  the 
left  banka  of  the  Ooadiana. 

San  Iauot  de  Ouaditmeu-^IOOO  in* 
hah.,  oppoaite  the  small  Portogoese 
hamlet  of  Alooatim,  with  a  miaeraUe 
caatillo  and  aome  aham  batteriea. 

Bock$  itf  Btf$rmiM,—l.  'Deaorip.  da 
k  Oatedral,'  etc,  hj  Uirntia;  Oadis. 
Barista  Medics,  1848. 

8.  'QniadeOadii, 'containing ansa- 
tvl  directoTj,  pubUahed  yearly,  aold  at 
'Berista  Medica.'  N,B,  Thero  is  a 
good  map  of  the  dty  by  Wassermann. 

8.  *U  Bibida  y  OristiSbal  Colon.' 
Deacription  of  the  conrent  and  ita  re- 
cent repairs  by  the  Due  de  Montpensier 
in  1865  ;  HuelTa»  Beyea  y  Moreno^  1 
ToL,  1855. 


CARTAQENA. 


Prorince  of  Mmeim  (pop.  1857, 
83,000. 

From  IfMlHci  to  Chinchilk  (rail  from 
Madrid  to  AUcante),  distance,  S98kiL  ; 
time,  9  hrs. ;  change  carriagei^  bianch 
line  to  Oartagcna  distance,  227  kii ; 
time,  8  hrs. ;  total  time,  17  hrs.  Farea 
from  Madrid  to  Chinchilla,  1st  cL, 
181r.  25c. ;  Sd  cL,  lOlr.  75c ;  Chin- 
chiUa  to  Cartagena,  1st  cL,  99r.  75c ; 
2d  cL,  77r.  25c  Tlie  scenery  ii  most 
uninteresting.  See  for  detUl  Murda^ 
2d  fnm  Madrid.  There  are  alao  occa- 
aional  steamers  to  Alicante^  Malaga, 
Yalenda,  Almeria,  etc,  about  one  a- 
fortnight  To  Alicante,  6  hrs.  To 
Almeria,  18  hrs. 


Ooneral  Deaoription.— Thia  port  ia 
tiie  Urgeat  in  Spain  after  that  of  Y  igc 
It  is  the  best  and  aecureat  along  the 
whole  coast,  sheltered  from  all  danger- 
ous winds,  snd  well  protected  by  nature 
The  best  inn  is  that  tU  tot  CSuUro  No- 
ekmm;  a  new  hotel  also^  Fimia  Frwrn- 
ceta^  in  Calk  Jaboneria.  The  town, 
dull  and  uninteresting;  consists  mainly 
of  a  long  street,  the  Oalle  Mayor,  which 
terminates  in  tiie  Plasa  de  la  Constitu- 
don  ;  it  ii  broad  and  rektirely  dean, 
but  preaenta  little  to  attract  the  trsTd- 
ler*s  notice  Cartagena  waa  the  Carthago 
Nora,  founded  by  the  Carthaginian 
family  of  the  Barcaa,  who  always 
founded  dties  near  the  aea.    Thk  port 


104 


CABTAOINA. 


wu  the  most  important  tb*  Otttha- 
ginianf  poneased  in  Spain,  and  became 
their  great  arsenal  and  general  entrepot 
lU  teenre  baj  and  dtoation  fiidng  the 
Meditenanean,  half-waj  between  Gaol 
and  Tfngitania>  was  not  orerlooked  hj 
the  litf-d^ted  Boman%  who  fortified 
it»  and  called  it  Colonia  Yietrix  Jolia. 
The  Qoths  almott  destroyed  it  When 
the  navy  of  Spain  was  floorialiing  (17th 
osntoiy),  Ositagena  contained  upwards 
of  00,000  inhaUtants.  Charles  III. 
endeaTonred,  bat  in  Tain,  to  restore  it 
to  its  former  prosperity,  and  dnring 
the  sabseqnent  rei^  it  has  gradnally 
dwindled  to  its  present  miserable  con- 
dition ;  bat  life  will*  we  trost^  soon 
come  back  and  fill  those  noble  arsenals, 
magnificent  dock%  and  admirable  port^ 
whne  nothing  it  wanting  saTO  ships 
and  sailors ;  articles  not  to  easily  made 
as  tiie  former. 

Among  the  very  few  si^ts  is  the 
arsenal,  to  Tisit  which  an  order  is  neoes- 
saiyfrom  the  G6mandantede  Marina. 
The  fortifications^  basing  barrack% 
hospitals,  rope-walks,  foandries^  are  all 
boilt  on  a  grand  scale ;  bat  they  are  ne- 
glected and  left  to  decay.  There  are 
some  few  bat  interesting  rains  in  the 
Tidnity,  ahcgether  n^g^eted  by  anti- 
qoaries.  There  is  little  trade  gobg  on, 
as  Alicante  is  preferred,  especially  since 
the  railway  connecta  with  the  interior. 
The  iron,  copper,  and  lead  mines  in  the 
▼idnity  are  actirely  worked,  and  many 
Tesseis  arrire  tnm  En|^and  laden  with 
eoal  to  be  employed  in  them ;  the  oopper, 
aQrer,  and  loui  are  of  excellent  qoality, 
and  the  filones  aboand.  There  is  a 
small  theatre  and  casino^  into  which 
trarellers  are  easily  admitted.  As  a 
residence  the  town  is  most  dnll,  and 
there  is  no  sodety.  To  obtain  a  fine 
Tiew  of  the  town,  port,  and  smroonding 
scenery,  we  adTise  traTeUers  to  ascend 
Las  Oalcrai^  La  Atalaya,  or  San  Jolian. 


The  only  choreh  is  that  of  Sta.  Maria 
de  Orada,  the  old  cathedral  of  18th 
centary  bdng  rninoos. 

JVtKlf  oiitf  ifiase.— The  total  import- 
ations and  ezpcrtations  from  1842  to 
1855  haTO  increased  from  £160,000  to 
some  £800,000,  owing  especially  to  the 
extension  of  the  mining  business.  There 
are  now  aboat  sixty-seren  iron-foandries 
in  and  near  the  dty,  employing  2000 
workmen,  three  luge  steam-engines, 
5000  males  and  donkeyi  for  the  Tcnti* 
latent  and  prodndng  annnally  aboat 
20,000  tons.  The  exports  in  1855  were 
16^402  tons.  Theee  mines  woald  yield 
tenfold  what  they  do  now  were  tiiey 
better  managed ;  the  local  miners  and 
speoalators  prefer  extracting  what  they 
can  fhmi  the  tooritt  of  andent  mines 
worked  by  the  Bomans,  and  which  are 
foand  in  considerable  qnantities  baried 
ander  a  thin  stratam  of  alluTial  soil. 
They  thas  extract,  with  little  expense^ 
fhmi  4  to  10  per  cent  of  lead,  and  sere- 
ral  of  these  filones  or  beds  are  fwtm&i 
for  fhim  £5000  to  £10,000.  The  beds 
of  the  nameroas  raTinee,  torrents^  etc, 
in  the  Tidnity,  are  also  the  object  of 
laeratiTe  speralation,  and  the  sands 
and  soil  often  yidd,  by  washin§^  etc, 
40  to  50  per  cent  of  snlphar  of  lead  in 
an  almott  pare  state. 

Tlie  climate,  formerly  Tsry  anwhole- 
somfl^  when  the  agne-stricken  iahabit- 
aats  osed  to  die  'como  chinches,' 
owing  to  the  brackish  water,  the  emana- 
tiona  of  the  ill-drained  Alini^ar  (a  lake 
fanned  by  the  rain%  near  tiie  town), 
etc,  has  been  considerably  modified  and 
improred  by  the  complete  drainage  of 
this  focos  of  feTer%  the  waters  of  which 
now  flow  into  the  sea,  and  by  sereral 
other  works.  Tliesommertemperatare, 
thoo^  hi^  is  tempered  by  the  moist 
sea-breen ;  and  winter,  when  the  Mistral 
(N.W. )  wind  does  not  blow,  may  be  said 
not  to  exist 


106 


CA8TILE8  (NEW  AND  OLDX 


Outflla-lA-NiieTa  and  Outflla-lA- 
Yi^a,  the  two  Urgett  prorinoet  In 
Spain,  haTB  been  diiided  into  tiie  pro- 
Tinoee  of  Bwrffpi,  pop.  887,782 ;  Xo- 
gro§k>,  pop.  17(^111  ;  Saria,  pop. 
149,649  ;  Stgoffia,  pop.  140,892 ;  AfriJa, 
pop.  168,778 ;  SamtantUr,  pop.  219,968 ; 
JPliUneia,  pop.  186,966;  and  FalUuMid, 
pop.  246,981  (fonning  part  of  Old  Gaa- 
tile),  and  Madrid,  pop.  489,882  ;  Cfuth 
dakifara,  pop.  204,626 ;  Toledo,  pop. 
828,782,  and  Ouohm,  pop.  229,614 
(New  OMtae),  aamming  2,841,991. 
Theae  two  gnat  dirialona  are  plaoed 
under  the  milituy  Jorledietion  of  the 
Oaptain-General  of  Kew  Outile,  who 
reaidea  at  Madrid,  and  of  that  of  Old 
Oaatile,  who  reaidea  at  YaUadolid,  and 
are  eccleaiaaticall  j  dependent  of  the  aeea 
of  Toledo  and  B«tigo& 

HIatorioal  Hotloe.— The  earlieat  in- 
habltanta  were  the  Oeltiberi,  Oarpetoni, 
Oretui,  etc.  '  The  name  CkuUU  waa 
derired  from  the  nnmberleM  oaatiea 
plaoed  on  the  frontien,  and  aerring  aa 
delenoea  against  home  and  foreign  ene- 
mies.   CbiMlei  to  ri^  was  one  of  the 

the  inTiding  inAieL  The  eotidado,  or 
ooontj  of  Burgoa  became  a  kingdom  in 
1086,  and  Hew  Osstile  was  annexed  to 
it  by  Ferdinand  L,  the  snbseqnent 
reigns  of  Alfbnso  YL  and  YIIL 
strengthening  ths  nnion  ;  and  thoo^ 
tomed  for  a  time  into  chaos  in  tibe 
reigns  of  Peter  tiie  Omel  and  Enrique 
lY.,  thejr  were  finally  eonaolidated,  and 
at  the  marrii^  of  Isabel  with  Fedinand 
of  Aragon  were  with  this  latter  meiged 
into  one  Test  monarehj,  1479. 

JMoon,  MotuUoim,  eCs.— The  princi- 
pal moontains  are  the  Sierra  Goadar- 
rama,  to  the  N.E.  of  New  Outile ;  the 
snow-capped  SomosieiTa  to  &  ;  the 
taqges  of  Molina  and  Onenca,  which 
&n  joined  to  those  of  Alcanas  and 


Mnrda ;  the  Montes  de  Toledo^  which 
rise  between  the  Tsgns  and  Qnadiana ; 
and  to  the  S.  a  pc^tion  of  the  Sierra 
Morena,  which  dlTidea  it  from  Anda* 
Insia.  The  moat  important  rirers  are 
the  Ebro,  Jhuro,  Taguo,  etc  The 
mountainous  districts  are  picturesque, 
highly  interesting  for  their  botany  and 
geology.  The  rest  of  the  oonntiy  is 
composed  of  trackless,  lonely,  wind- 
blown plains^  most  fertOe,  tiio«i(^  much 
expoeed  to  drought,  and  thinly  peopled. 
The  heat  is  ezoessiTe  in  summer,  and 
the  ley  blasts  in  winter  come  sweeping 
down  from  the  lofty  mountain^  checked 
in  their  oourse  by  neither  forests, 
hedges^  nor  cultlTa^on. 

The  People,  CharaeUr,  jDwit.— The 
Oastilisns  are  a  graTe^  loyal,  stem, 
trustworthy,  and  manly  raoe^  silent  and 
proud  ;  porerty,  ignorance^  and  Ugotry 
are  their  lot,  but  not  their  work ;  and 
their  wtflifllfnt  qualities,  and  eren  do- 
lecte^  mi^t  be  easily  turned  to  good  ao- 
coont  They  speak  the  purest  Spanish, 
a  CkuMama,  which  Charlea  Y.  said  was 
the  only  tongue  in  which  man  could 
presume  to  address  the  DiTinity.  They 
wear  long  cloak%  OMguarimae,  and  a 
ourioudy-sh^ied  cap  or  immtoni. 

The  cities  retain  mostly  all  the  cha- 
racteristics of  the  medi»Tal  Gotho- 
Castilian  styles  and  abound  in  magnifi- 
cent examplca  of  Gothic  and  Byantine 
churches^  and  of  military  palatial  archi- 
tecture. Andalusia  it  the  land  of  the 
Mooiv  but  Castile  is  alone  truly  and 
ezdusiTely  Spaniah. 


TlMibllawiqf 

Madrid  to  Alcali 

d«  Htnarei,  r. 
Gmdal^^aii^  r. 
SiaucBn.  T. 

sSkTda. 

Ajfiv^dO. 

Bnivot,  r. 
ValCdolid,!; 


the 


OfaDcdcsda. 

ofiKwTNL  r. 

A^di. 


.  r. 
Madrid,  r. 
Toledo^  r. 
Albacetc,  r. 
CmacM,  diL 
HMCaidiL 


106 


GATALUIU. 


We  hare  entirely  omitted  each  dtiee 
M  AnndAy  Lenna,  Boitngo,  TtkTeza» 
Belmonte,  eto.»  becanse,  besides  the 
diffienltj  of  lesohiiig  them  now;  and 
the  wretched  accommodation,  to  which 


we  can  testify,  their  contents  are  moetlj 
indifferent  to  the  general  tonrist  The 
best  season  is  the  spring  and  sarij  pait 
ofsommer. 


CATALUNA 


Oeographioal  and  AdminiatratiTe 
DiTision.  —  Catalnfla,  a  captaincy- 
general,  #1  pnmeipado,  as  it  is  often 
called,  has  the  shape  of  a  triangle^  the 
summit  of  which  is  formed  by  the 
Pyrenees  and  the  base  by  the  M«diter- 
ranean.  It  has  an  extent  of  140  ul  K 
to  W.,  and  154  UL  N.  to  a  The 
population,  which  amoontedto  820,970 
inthel5thcentaiy,  numbers  now  (1800) : 
in  Oerona,  811,158  inhab.;  Barcelona, 
720,267  ;  Lerida,  814,581 ;  Tanrsgona, 
iB21,880 ;  in  all,  1,678,842  sonls— these 
four  jnesent  prorinoes  constituting 
formeriyaU  CataluAa.  It  is  a  region 
of  hills  and  Talleys,  the  seaboard  ex- 
tending some  880  kiL  from  Cape  Cer- 
Tera  to  the  embouchure  of  Cerrera,  the 
principal  penis  being  Barcelona,  Tana- 
gona.  Salon,  Rosas,  Palamos;  etc 

The  People,  CKameUrf  Dnn,  etc — 
The  Catalans  are  the  most  industrious, 
business-like,  enterprising  peof^e  in 
Spain ;  they  are  the  Scotch  of  this 
country,  as  the  Andalnsians  are  the 
Irish,  and  the  Asturlans  the  Welsh. 
They  are  sober,  laborious,  honest,  en- 
thusiastie  for  progress,  proud  of  their 
own,  looking  up  to  France  for  example 
and  oompetition,  and  down  on  the  sur- 
rounding prorinces  with  contempt  and 


pity.  WhereTerthoe  are  trade,  tabricsr 
enterprise^  there  you  are  sure  to  find 
Catalans  ;.  in  England,  in  America,  in 
the  East,  they  haTO  cTcrywhere,  and  in 
all  ages  and  times,  carried  their  insa- 
tiable lore  of  enterprise  and  activity. 
They  are  rehement,  austere^  rerengefiil, 
and  generally  not  capable  of  great  feel- 
ing or  lasting  friendship^  and  egotism 
seems  to  be  a  pirot  aroimd  which  all 
their  actions  turn.  They  are  besides 
destitute  of  stability  in  their  own  poli- 
tical principles,  and  have  sold  them- 
selTes  always  to  the  bluest  bidder ; 
but  it  must  not  be  forgotten  that  in 
their  hearts  and  souls  they  are  neither 
Spaniards  nor  French,  they  are  Cata- 
lans ;  and  in  their  eyes,  there  is  only 
one  CataluAa,  and  Barcelona  is  its  pro- 
phet Their  religion  reaches  supersti- 
tion ;  their  activity  degenerates  into 
feverish  craving  ;  Uieir  love  of  liberty 
has  led  them  to  bloodshed,  excesses, 
and  rapine.  They  hold  the  commerce 
of  Spain  in  their  hands,  and  have  been 
justly  defined,  as  a  province,  the  Spanish 
Lanoishire.  Oatalufia  has  been  always 
the  centre  of  rebellion,  the  focus  of  re- 
publicanism and  democracy ;  it  is  the 
feeder  of  Spain,  its  stomach,  which  is 
the  centre  and  cause  of  all  disease  in 


OATALUKA. 


107 


the  great  bodj.  Th&j  are  patient  and 
daring  ac^dien^  excellent  aailon,  and 
model  amngj^flft  and  gaenfllertML  The 
draai  ia  plain  and  unpietareaqne.  The 
wemen  laa  payeaaa  who  are  not  a 
handaome  laoe^  hot  atran^  maarwlfae, 
angolar,  and  roa|^  diamond^  wear  a 
ti(^  boddiceb  ahcurt  dreai^  and  an  nn- 
heeomlng  handkenhie(  moeado,  on 
their  h^da,  which  la  genenllj-red. 
The  men'a  draaa  eonaiata  of  a  Teiyahort 
▼etret  or  cloth  Ja^et,  long  looae  dark 
tronaerBi  which  come  np  Tvy  highland 

la  a  remlnlaoenoe  of  their  Carthaginian 
forefatheri,  and  ia  a  rvj  long  red  or 
purple  cotton  ni^toiq^-ehaped  'gorro^* 
not  nnlike  that  worn  by  the  Genoeee 
and  KeapoUtan  fiahennen;  the  end 
either  hangi  on  one  aide^  or  ia  donbled 
np  and  brmight  orer  the  forehead  :  the 
red  predominatea.  Indeed,  the  different 
prorincea  might  be  characterised  bj 
tints ;  red  woold  atand  for  OataloAa, 
bine  and  black  for  Andalnaia,  light 
green  and  white  forYalenoiai  brown 
for  Aatorlai^  dark  purple  for  Aragon, 
eta  The  Gatalana  are,  aaj  their  de- 
tractors, Tsiy  egotistical,  proeak,  and 
grasping  —  monej  IdkUrm)  is  their 
god.  ^niis  is  exaggerated,  for  allowing 
that 


Et  Doo  DiMTOk 

to  them  the  Boman  satirist  conld  not 
say:— 

cnrai|CiTC»i  qiMBriDO  pccunMi  pcuaiiiB  cw, 

V  VIQS  POK 


for  thej  are  Terj  generona,  apend  their 
fortonee  in  works  of  art,  patronise  music 
eqwdall J,  their  popolar  poetrj  ia  eren 
ethereal  and  Gennan  in  its  style  and 
feeling,  and  the  meet  etralghtforwaid 
maxims  role  without  exception. 

Hiatorj.— The  Oatalans  are  deecend- 
ants  of  the  Phomiciana,  Carthaginians, 
and  Oieeki^  who  colonised  all  Medi- 


terranean Spain.  It  waa  considered, 
from  its  position,  a  Tsiy  important  pro- 
Tince  of  Boman43pain;  Titfragona  be- 
came the  capital  CataloAa  was  divided 
into.different  minor  states-  Cerretania» 
Ansetania,  Oaatellania,  etc  When 
Borne  fell,  and  Spain  waa  inraded  by 
the  Alani,  SncTea,  etc,  the  Qotha  fixed 
their  first  cdoniee  here,  and  called 
it  their  own  land,  Qotha-lnnia.  When 
the  Moors  injaded  it,  disposseesing  the 
Ooth%  the  Franka  croesed  the  Pyrenees^ 
were  repoleed,  and  driren  back  to  Nar> 
bonne,  bat  mnstering  great  nombers, 
came  again  and  took  Barcelona.  The 
Moors  were  defeated,  and  retired,  and 
the  French  conquerors  eetabUshed  a 
feudal  oondado,  or  county,  calling  it 
the  Spaniah  Miirche,  and  dirided  into 
nine  smaller  etatec  Wifred,  goTemor 
under  Charlee  the  Bald,  of  France, 
raised  the  standard  of  rerolt,  and  be- 
came the  independent  chief  of  the  pros- 
perous and  extenslTe  oondado  of  Bar- 
celona. The  independence  of  the  county 
lasted  from  the  9th  to  the  ISth  cen- 
tury. Thia  was  the  greatest  period  of 
the  proeperity,  wealUi,  and  power  of 
Catalulka.  It  waa  then  that  the  cele- 
brated maritime  expeditione  against 
the  pirates  of  the  Balearic  laUnds  and 
Corrica  took  place,  as  well  aa  the  war 
with  Majorca  (then  poeseesed  by  the 
Mooie),  which  was  carried  on  by  Bamon 
Berenguer  III.  and  the  Catalan  nobility 
— the  expeditbna  against  the  Moon  in 
Spain— the  capture  of  Tortoea— the 
alliancee  with  the  puisaant  republioe 
of  Qenoa  and  Pisa,  etc  By  the  mar- 
riage in  1187  of  Bamon  Berenguer  lY. 
wi^  Petronila,  dangjiter  and  heiress  of 
Bamiro  el  Mo^Je,  king  of  Arsgon, 
Catalnfia  waa  merged  in  the  crown  of 
the  latter  country,  and  loot  its  inde- 
pendence Annexed  to  Castile  by  the 
marriage  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella, 
CataluAa  no  longer  poaeessed  the  proe- 
perity and  power  of  andent  times.   Ill 


108 


OATALimA. 


eneigiei^  tplritof  tndei  and  independent 
pretonsione  were  crippled,  ecomed,  and 
pat  down  bj  the  hangbty  oonrtier- 
wairion  of  OMtUla.  Bebellion,  the 
well-known  eableradonee,  motinee,  to* 
matenee,  pronnnciamientoi»  and  other 
•achlike  oatbnnta,  with  which  Catalan 
political  Tocabnlaries  abonnd,  began 
now  nerer  to  eeaae.  In  1640  thej 
threw  off  the  joke  of  FhHip  lY.,  and 
offered  their  allegiance  to  Looii  XIIL, 
'  qni  ne  fe  fit  paa  prier/  but  haetened  to 
proclaim  himaelf  Ooimt  of  Barcelona. 
Pat  down  in  1662,  the  rebellion  wai 
renewed  in  1689,  when  thej  reaiated 
Charlea  II.,  bat  were  obliged  to  ear- 
render  to  tiie  French  arm  j  ander  the 
ordera  of  Dnc  de  Yenddme.  In  the  war 
of  aacoearion  thej  aided  with  Aostria, 
and  in  1714  FhOip  Y.  bombarded  Barce- 
lona, and  deetrojed  one-third  of  it  Bat 
their  want  of  iaccaia  haa  not  deterred 
them  from  indulging  to  thii  daj  in  dTil 
wara  and  rerolationa.  Thej  are  per- 
petaal  gramblerib  and  haTc  taken  to 
meetlngi^  aaeodatlona,  political  diaena- 
aiona,  repreaentadonca  to  Goremment 
and  the  Queen,  coached  often  in  ener- 
getic term%  eta  Free  trade  and  Pro- 
tection are  here  at  loggerhead^  and  the 
tariff  and  ita  grierancea  call  forth  the 
eloqaenoe  of  ita  depatietat  the  Oortea, 
and  the  diatribea  of  iti  preea-writen  at 
home.  Catilafta  ia  with  all  thia  Teij 
proaperoai^  her  manafiustarea  inereaa- 
ing;  and  her  trade  thriring,  eapedallj 
with  France. 

Mma,  AgHmUurt,  de, — CataloAa 
aboonda  in  minea,  though  thej  are  of 
no  Terj  great  importance.  iS^ia  found 
in  great  quantitlea  at  ChnUma  and 
Gerri,  Uad  at  Falaet,  lead  and  copper 
at  Baawgoda,  La  Biabal,  Sdlera,  Yi- 
dreeaa ;  lin,  tint,  and  cMU  are  more 
aearoe;  eoal  ia  found  at  Ripoll  and 
San  Juan  de  laa  Abadeeaa ;  and  the 
jRorUci  of  Tortoea  and  Tarragona  are 
excellent,  and  in  great  repute 


« 

There  are  aereral  excellent  and  bene- 
ficial  mineral  apringa  called  Oaldaa  (cal» 
doi^  hot),  each  aa  the  Oddaa  de  Mont- 
bnj,  Oaldaa  d'Satrach,  de  Makrella, 
the  aulphuroua  waten  of  La  Puda, 
OTer  the  Lbbregat,  and  of  N.  Sra.  de 
Oaldaa.  linen,  blondei^  and  lace  are 
extenaiTeljproduced,  and  beaideapaper- 
manufactma,  aoapa,  apirit%  etc.,  oot- 
ton-epinning  haa  of  late  jeara  acquired 
great  importance,  and  milla  are  being 
eatabliahed  eTerjwhere.  The  principal 
centrea  are  Barcelona,  Sabadell,  Reua, 
etc  Agriculture  ia  far  fh>m  being 
n^ected;  and  Oatalan  energj  haa 
tnmaformed  the  arid  rarined  aoil  into 
gardena  and  crchard%  the  example 
being  giren  bj  the  wealthj  proprie- 
tora,  who,  un-Spanish-like,  lore  to 
dwell  on  their  eatatea,  where  thej 
build  handaome  houaea,  called  tarm. 
The  plaina  of  the  Ampuidau,  the 
countrj  about  Gerona,  Yich,  Oeidafia, 
Uigel,  Tarragona,  the  IfMUterranean 
board,  are  celebrated  for  the  fertilitj 
of  the  aoil,  their  oliTea,  Tinea,  and  paa- 
turea.  Wine  of  infinite  Tarietiee  and 
taatea  ia  likewiae  produced,  among 
which  we  maj  name  the  delidoua 
malTaaia  de  SitJ^a,  thoee  of  Allera, 
Oullera,  Trina,  Tkja,  the  headj  Beni- 
carlo,  aent  to  France  to  flaTour  and 
dor  euerpo  to  the  apiritleeeadd  piquette, 
Priorato  (near  Tarragona),  etc  The 
rich  red  common  wine,  when  matured 
bj  age,  and  then  called  rondo,  ia  ex- 
cellent^ eapedallj  with  water.  The 
prindpal  rirera  are^  the  FluTia,  Ter 
Ebro,  liobr^gat^  Francoli,  and  Cerria, 
moat  emptjing  themaelTea  into  tha 
Mediterranean. 

XwUinni  NaH9e$,^ln  point  of  art, 
aa  of  letters,  Oatailuna  ia  not  remark- 
able It  haa,  howerer,  produced  aome 
diatinguiahed  writen^  auch  aa  Gap- 
man  j,  Bofarrun,  Balmea. 

Boiitea.-Ita  dtiee  are  deatitute  ai 
character,  bearing  moatlj  a  modan 


GATALimA. 


109    ' 


•I^Mimnoe;  and  itt  monnmentt  be- 
long to  the  wont  period  of  art,  or, 
if  andent,  haTe  beoi  aadlj  disfigured 
or  n^eetod.  Thii  ii  apeaking  in 
a  general  aense^  for  there  axe  some 
and  Tery  important  exceptions,  soeh 
as  the  cathedral  and  oUrfsters  of  Tirra- 
gona,  the  roinoos  but  interesting  Po- 
blet,  Cnoolate  del  Yalles,  cathedrals  of 
Barcelona,  Gerona,  Lerida,  eta,  all  of 
which  must  be  Tislted  (thoa|^  Poblet 
and  Cocofiite,  from  their  ont-of-the- 
waj  aitoation  and  dilapidated  state, 
we  haTe  but  tvj  alighUj  described), 
and  are  hi^  j  interesting.  The  best 
season  to  trayel  in  GataloAa  is  the 
spring  and  aotomn,  and  the  moon- 
tainoos  diitricts  in  the  summer.  Ber- 
oelona  is  a  good  winter  quarter  for 
inTalids. 


Ptopi(Bao  to  Vi^a^  I    Xoctoia,  f.,  tBdiflw' 


rai,  r. 


r. 


Rcwyd. 


Matard^r. 


r. 


,  r. 
r. 

Sokooa,  d. 
UffeL  r^d. 
Ffcndi  Pjitueetyr.d. 
orwalk. 


PuMcoerdlL  r.  (V  wsDc 

Ptobl«l,d.r. 
lJridm,6,r, 
vnnBfodfliit  OH* 
OkA,4Sl 
Ripoll,<UL 

GnaoXUn,  diL 


And  a  BMMtcf,  finoB  Ducclooa  to  Tamsona 
and  Real,  dicD  to  LSrida  sad  MaimM,  aad 
(finoB  ttaiL  dX  k  a  vodc^  lims. 


Book$  qf  Btfwmei.^1.  *  Los  Ck>ndes 
de  Baredooa  Tindicadoe^'  bj  the 
learned  Bdamll;  Barcelona,  18Z%  2 
4to  Tola.    Hi^j  important. 

2.  'BecosrdosjBeUesasdeEspafia.^ 
The  portion  relating  to  OataloAa  haa 
been  ablj  written  hj  Messrs..  PifiRcrer 
and  Pi  7  MaigdL 

S.  'l^ageUtenrioilasIiMMde 
Espa&a,'  by  YillanoimL  Yds.  6  to  21 
relate  to  thechordiesaiid  ecdesiastioal 
history  of  Oatahtfka. 


>   I 


no 


CORDOVA. 


Oapital  of  prorinoe  of  nme  name, 
blihoprio,  commandanda  general;  pop. 
41,968  (IMO). 

Oommonioatlona. — 1.  Fhmi  Mad- 
rid, Bj  rail  throngfaoiit,  I7  the  Mad- 
rid to  Alicante  line  aa  far  aa  Alcasar ; 
boflet^  change  car. ;  diatanee^  442  IdL  ; 
time  16|  hn. ;  farea,  Itt  cL,  194r.  60c ; 
i2d  d.,  160r.  76c. 

DeKHpUm  of  BauU, — ^Between  Alca- 
lar  and  Oocdora  the  ooontrj  ia  most 
nnintereating — traeleaB,  atonj,   wind- 
blown, are  indeed  the  endleea  '  Oampoa 
de  la  Mancha,'  a  name,  howerer,  Ytxy 
familiar  to  all  readera  aa  being  ao  closely 
aay>ciated   with   Oerrantea*  immortal 
hero^  El  Hidalgo  Don  Qnizote  de  la 
Mancha.     ArgamadUa  d$  Alba^  which 
ia  eroaaed  aoon  after  leaying  AUauar,  ia 
sappoaed  to  hare  been  the  place  where 
Ocmntea,  thrown  into  iti  prison  by 
the  iraadble  debtors  whose  rents  he  had 
been  sent  to  collect,  began  to  write  his 
noTd,  making  his  hero  a  natire  of  the 
village  which  had  so  ill  treated  him.  Ko 
one  doubts  here  of  the  real  existence  of 
the  gallant  old  knight,  and  there  are 
seyeral  familiea  who  dsim  descent  fh>m 
that  wiaest  of  fool%  and  that  ahrewdeat 
of  madmen.     One  of  the  best  and  most 
recent  editions  haa  been  printed  in  that 
Tery  prison,  the  former  town  jaiL  Short- 
ly after  we  leare  thia  atation  are  aeen, 
rising  on  onr  right,  the  foremost  altoras 
of  Sierra  Morena.    Matuanairet. — ^Tra- 
rellers   to    Lbbon   change   carriages. 
FaUspeiUu  (Inn :  Posada  del  Medio- 
dia),  11,200  thirsty  aonla,  who  almost 
lire  upon  the  excellent  but  improrable 
wine  of  that  name— the  best  common 
red  wine  in  Spain.    It  originated  with 
some  Tines  brought  tnm  Borgnndy,  and 
which  thriTe  in  that  flinty  tract  of 
coontry  (Yal  de  Peftas,  literally,  Yale 


of  Rocks).  Venia  «U  (Ubrdmai.—Tid^ 
name  ia  also  Cuniliar  to  readers  of  Don 
Quixote  as  being  that  of  the  renta  to 
which  Oudenio,  the  curate,  and  Doro- 
tea  took  the  penitent  kn^^t  on  hia 
giring  up  hia  aolitary  life.  Liniani, 
Close  by  are  the  cdebrated  lead  and 
copper  minea  of  that  name,  a  national 
property.  Cross  the  Guadalquivir  at 
Mm^ibar,  and  we  then  reach  Andt^ar, 
about  10,000  inhab.,  sombre^  backward, 
and  unwholeaome.  In  its  church  a  fine 
Sta  Sepulcro  in  relief;  around  are  very 
extensiTS  olire -grounds^  and  dose  by 
flows  the  Guadalquiyir.  The  Conren- 
tion  of  Bailen,  July  28, 1808,  waa  aigned 
here.  After  crossing  the  bridge,  one 
enters  the  prorince  of  Cordora.  Not 
far  fh>m  Pitdro  Abad  is  El  Ckrpio^  with 
a  Moorish  tower,  built  in  1826.  Close 
to  Ossa  Blanca  ia  a  very  fine  black 
marble  bridge  of  20  archea.  The  Guad- 
alquirir  to  Uie  left  CordoTa  soon  ap- 
pears^ in  not  a  striking  situation.  To 
S.E.  of  the  Talley  is  ^e  large  conical 
rock  and  castle  of  Almodovar,  one  of 
Don  Pedro's  fortresses,  where  he  kept 
his  treasures,  sometimes  amounting  to 
70  million  ducata. 

Now  the  Guadalbarbo  ia  crossed,  the 
orange  and  the  palm  min^e  with  the 
dusty  ungainly  oUre,  and  Cordoba  ia 
reached. 

2.  From  SevOU  (see  Serille),  4  hrs. 
from  Cadis;  by  rail  through  Serille, 
9  hrs.  ;  both  by  rail  direct 

8.  VromOramadtk  Granada  by  Lojo, 
Antegnera  to  BobadiUa,  by  rail,  about 
8  hrs.  ;  at  latter  atation  take  up  the 
Malaga  to  CordoTa  train,  6  hrs.  For 
deacription  of  route,  see  Oramada  fh>m 
Cordora. 

4.  From  or  to  ^^MAifiimines^  riding. 
ISleaguea. 


OOBDOVAi 


111 


Cordova  to  Villsharta 
VOloBoem  dd  Daqoe 
Los  Fodvodwo 


6 

S 

t 
t 
3 

i8 


6.  From  Malaga,  Bj  nil  direct; 
dirtttioe,  196  kiL ;  time,  e  bm  (midl 
train,  como) ;  faree,  let  eL,  98r.  60o. ; 
Sd  cL,  70r.  860.  For  deecriptioii  of 
route,  aee  Malaga  from  Oordora. 

6.  F^om  Jaea.  A  diL  Mrrioe  (La 
Madrilefia)  mne  dail  j  (f)  between  Jeen 
and  raihraj  atatkni  of  Mei^jibar,  whenee 
bj  rail  to  Cordora,  aboat  4  bra.  Infor- 
mation required— addreM  to  Sree.  Faj- 
erat  i  H^o^  Cie  La  Madrilefla.  at  Jaen. 
Alao  to  Oofdora  direct,   16  kiL,  hj 


HoWlfld— Fonda  8niia,kept  bjaSwiM 
Italian ;  neitber  tbebotel  nortbe  dtaa- 
tion  Terj  good,  but  tbe  beet  in  tbis  Teiy 
backward  dty.  Tbe  soocnraale  Jmt 
finiabing  oppoeite,  and  belonging  to  tbe 
aame  ptoyietor,  will  bare  better  accom- 
modation. T^^ble  dlidte  at  6  r.  IL,  14r. ; 
a  bedroom  on  firat  floor,  S<hr.,  meals  in- 
clnded,  and  26r.  on  aecond floor;  an 
interpreter.  Fonda  Biiii,  elean  and 
decent 

Omriagm  ma j  be  bired  at  tbe  botela 
for  lOOr.  a-day,  end  SOr.  balf  tbe  daj. 
JEToriif,  for  promenades  and  trarel,  at 
Prieto's  and  Oastafloo'a. 

CMmo. — ^Foreignen  maj  Tisit  it  and 
reed  tbe  Frencb  and  Spanisb  papers 
gratis  for  a  fortni^t  T17  tbe  excel- 
lent Montilla  wine  berei  Some  good 
samples  may  be  bad  at  LaTinda  de  Jaen, 
for  12r.,  16r.,  and  20r.  a  bottle. 

OommgameeitolMeina, — ^Tbe  'Anda- 
lon,'  dafly  senice  at  1180  r.M. ;  &res^ 
bed.,  S20r.,  int  160r.,  imp.,  120r.,  in 
80  brsi ;  distance,  34  leagues.  Distance 
to  McnHUa,  4  leagnes ;  to  Serille,  8S 
leagnes  ;  to  Madrid,  88  leagues. 

Jf  Jil— Tbose  desirous  of  Tisiting  an 


olhre  &rmbouse,  etc,  will  do  well  togs 
to  Tones  Oabras,  Las  Quemada%  La 
Jarosa,  eta  For  details  on  tbe  pro- 
ceeding!^ etc,  see  Oen.  Inl :  ^prtfciiftMn. 
OlimaW. — Owing  to  tbe  low  and 
somewbat  sunk  situation  of  tbe  eitj  in 
a  Tallflj,  tbe  utter  want  of  trees,  tbe 
scanty  irrigation,  eta,  tbe  beat  in  sum- 
mer is  Teiy  great— indeed  ahnoet  insup- 
portable—and  tbe  wealtby  inbabitants 
migrate  to  Y  eranear  in  tbe  cool  Talleys 
oftbeSittra.  Tbe  climate  is,  bowerer, 
wbolesome^  and  tbe  ^ring  and  autumn 
are  deU^tluL  Tbe  most  common  ill- 
neeees  are  catarrii,  intermittent  lbm% 
inflammatory  feren^  and  pmfmmim. 
Tbe  arenige  temperature  is— 

Rk 

la  HMJin  .  •  •  .  15^ 
Insoamer  ....  n* 
Inautnnui  •    M* 

In  winter  .     5*to0* 

Tbe  tbermometer  bas  nerer  been  known 
to  rise  aboTc  88*  to  84*  in  summer,  or 
to  fidl  below  8*  undsr  nro.  As  to 
wind,  it  is  eatpoeed  to  tbe  K.  wind. 
Tbe  Sierra,  extending  from  K  to  W., 
screens  tbe  town  a  good  deal  from  tbe 
S.  burning  blast;  tbe  meet  preralent 
are  K,  aW.,  W.,  N.W.  Mortality  is 
1.S6;  great*  age  is  seldom  reaebed. 
The  climate  bas  cbanged  considerably 
since  tbe  time  of  tbe  Moors^  wben  Oor- 
doTa  and  its  districts  were  beld  to  be  a 
perfect  paradise  up(m  eartb,  of  wbicb 
its  blabk-eyed  women  were  tbe  bouris. 
Oordora  is  situated  8r  43"  K.  lat, 
4*  46"  W.  long. 

Ooneral  Peeorlption.  —  OordoTa, 
once  tbe  centre  of  European  cirilisation, 
tbe  suoceosful  HtsI  of  Bdi^idad  and  Da- 
mascus^ tbe  seat  of  learning  and  repoei- 
tory  of  arts,  sank  long  ago  into  a  tblrd- 
rate  prorincial  dty,  backward,  dull, 
ill-proTided,  depopulated  and  silent— a 
dty  of  tbe  dead.  Tbe  Tory  labourer, 
forgetful  of  tbe  golden  rules  practically 
laid  down  by  tbe  industrious  Moor  for 


112 


OOBDOYA. 


conrertiiig  wastes  into  gudens  snd  or- 
chards, looks  sluggishly  on  his  tioelett^ 
wateristt^  parehed  op  Tallej,  confident 
that  what  litUc  seed  &lls  from  his  lasj 
hands  will  ripen  nnder  the  generons  son 
into  an  ahondant  crop,  l^ns  it  is  that 
the  extent  of  the  district  (Termino), 
being  184,288  fimegM  (Qen.  In£)  of  land. 
34eldsonfyaboat£206,0007earlj.  The 

peasants' antipathy  to  trees  is  shown  by 
the  fact  that  out  of  the  shore  extent  thej 
corer  a  sorfiMM  of  scaroelj  4000  fanegM  1 
In  the  l«th  centory,  the  district  of  Sta. 
Olara  yielded  half-a-million  fanegu  of 
com  a-year ;  and  the  silk,  once  asonree 
ofwealthtothekhalifate,  scarcely  yields 
4000  lbs.  a-year. 

The  celebrated  Cordoran  breed  of 
horses,  called  Oel-mefki,  and  worthy  of 
the  Prophet's  beantifal  description  of  a 
horse  in  th^  Koran,  hare  also  degene- 
rated ;  and  though  they  are  still  elegant, 
swilt-footed,  shining  with  Instroos  hair 
and  beantifal  tail  and  mane^  yet  their 
mxid^  hi^  kgi^  thick '  acamerada '  head 
and  ned[,  bespeak  neglect  and  ead  cros- 
sings. 

The  dtj,  once  the  abode  of  the  flower 
of  Andalusian  nobility,  is  inhabited 
chiefly  by  the  administradores  of  the 
absentee  seftorio,  their  'solares '  are  de- 
sert and  wretched,  the  streets  ill  pared 
thon^  dean,  and  the  whitewashed 
houses^  nnimportsnt^  low,  and  denuded 
of  all  art  and  meaning  either  past  or 
present. 

There  are  now  but  few  and  fast- 
fading  Testiges  of  the  glorious  Moslem 
dominion.  Indeed,  aitbts  and  poets 
will  feel  here  as  elsewhere  that  their 
progress  through  Spain  i%  as  it  were, 
little  else  than  following  the  long  fhneral 
of  that  Eastern  genius  that  left  no  heirs 
behind  sstc  suo£  like  cities  as  this  one^ 
that  sit  in  widowhood  pointing  to  some 
great  monument  as  an  eloquent  record 
of  the  past 

But,  as  Yictor  Hugo  Justly  remarks, 


Cordoao  sax  naiioot  vieillM 
A  n  motqofc  oil  foeil  le  pcfd  dam  le« 
ireOks; 

and  that  magnificent  edifice— a  town  in 
itself— with  its  many  streets  formed  by 
marble  i^llars,  like  alleys  of  trees,  com- 
pensates for  the  absent  life  from  the 
body,  whose  limy,  white,  and  calcined 
skeleton  lies  before  us.  For  the  passing 
tourist  who  is  busy  doimg  Spain,  a  few 
hours  will  suffice ;  but  tiie  artist,  the 
antiquary,  the  loTer  of  the  beantifiil,  ol 
the  poetry  and  music  inftised  in  stones, 
must  linger  more,  and  yisit  the  mosque 
oftentimes  and  at  rarions  hours  of  the 
day.  The  enrirons,  Talley,  and  sierra 
teem  with  magnificent  fruit  of  excep- 
tional sise  and  exquisite  flarour,  abound 
with  game— the  boar,  deer,  and  cTca 
lynx ;  and  the  botanist  will  meet  with 
a  Tery  extensiTe  flora,  comprising  up- 
wards of  1600  sorts  of  plants,  many  of 
which  will  be  new  to  him  and  desenre 
inyestigation. 

CordoTa  will  appear  most  Oriental  to 
the  trareller  coming  fhmi  the  North, 
and  who  has  not  seen  SerlUe^  Granada, 
etc.,  and  has,  at  all  erents^  a  most  un* 
European  character  about  its  street^ 
nsrrow  and  windin^^  its  flat-roofed 
houses,  the  stately  palm  waring  in  the 
sQent  air  fh>m  behind  a  garden  wall, 
oyer  which  enormous  oranges,  citrons^ 
and  limas  cluster  and  fall  like  golden 
balls.  The  appearance  and  colouring 
of  the  suburbs  and  sierra  by  erening 
time  win  tempt  many  a  painter  and 
poet  besides  Boberts  and  Southey. 

History.— CordoTS,  whose  name,  Bo- 
chsrt  suppose^  is  derired  tnm  the 
Syrian  eoUb,  'oil-press,'  and,  accord- 
ing to  Conde,  Carta-tuba,  an  'import- 
ant dty, '  was  but  little  known  under  the 
Phoenicians.  Silins  Italious  mentions  it 
in  his  poem  on  the  second  Punic  War, 
'  Nee  decus  auriferv  cessarit  Oorduba 
terris,'  when  Hannibal  disposed  of 
troops  ftimished  by  that  dty.    Kartius 


GOBDOVA — OATHXDRAL. 


113 


first,  206  B.a»  and  A.  Kftroellos  after, 
gare  it  importance,  and    the   latter 
(bunded  here  the  fiivt  Roman  colony, 
which  waa  called  Faitrieia,  from  the 
nomber  of  patridan  familiea  that  came 
from  Bome  and  eatabliahed  here  their 
home.    CordoTa  aabeeqnentlj  became 
the  capital  of  Ulterior  Spain,  and  aob- 
seqnentlj  of  Bstica.     It  sided  with 
Pompey,  which  opinion  cost  the  liresof 
28,000  of  iti  inhabitant^  who  were  pat 
to  death  by  Cnsar,  after  his  Tiotory  of 
Honda.     Under  ^he  Ooths  the  city  lost 
its  importance,  to  regain  it,  and  reach 
iti  hij^iest  acme,  when  it  became  Moor- 
ish.  It  was  takenshortlj  after  the  battle 
of  the  Gnadelete  by  Mngneith  El  Bumi, 
who,  throogh  the  assistanoe  of  the  Jews 
inside^  obtained  possession  of  it^  and 
entmsted  part  of  its  garrison  to  the  sons, 
of  Israel,  erer  ready  to  open  the  doors 
to  let  in  the  enemy  and  diride  the  spoils. 
Sabjeot  at  first  to  the   khalifate   of 
Damasoos^  CordoTa  aboat  766  declared 
itself  independent,  and  became  the  capi- 
tal of  the  Moorish  Empire  of  Spain, 
under  the  UmmeyAh  Abdii'r-rhAman. 
Under  the  princes  of  this  dynasty,  this 
dtj  (10th  century)  contained  800,000 
inhabitanti  ^dnding   the  saburbe), 
600  mosqnes,  60  hospitals,  800  pnblic 
schools,  900  baths,  and  600  inns ;  a 
library  of  600,000  Volumes,  besides  70 
prirate  ones  in  the  rest  of  the  kingdom. 
The  rerenue  smounted  to  six  millions 
steriing.    Discord  now  began  to  weaken 
the  eztensiTe  kingdom  ;  the  factions 
among  thesheiks,  aided  by  the  progress 
of  the  Ohristians,  soon  put  an  end  to 
the  prosperity  of  the  kingdom,  and  on 
June  80,  1286,  St  Ferdinand  entered 
the  dty.     Erer  since  that  time,  and 
notwithstanding  the  many  pririleges 
granted  to  its  inhabitants  and  the  no- 
bility that  resided  here,  CordoTa  nerer 
reeoTsred  even  the  shadow  of  its  fnmer 
prosperity.     In  the  17th  century  the 
populatioo  did  not  reach  70,000,  and 


has  now  dwindled  to  little  more  than 
40,000. 

EnUneiUir<Uivei.'^Ckitdctf%,  theabode 
and  cradle  of  many  of  the  noblest 
Spanish  houses,  'lapobladon  de  Europe 
de  mas  limpia  y  apurada  noblesa,'  as 
Gonialo  de  C^spedes  has  it^  has  been 
the  birthplace  of  sereral  great  writers, 
such  as  Seneca  (6  JLa),  the  master  of 
Nero;  the  stoic  philosopher  Lucan  (89 
A.a),  the  author  of  * PharMlia ;'  Arer- 
roes  (12th  century),  the  erudite  trans- 
lator of  Aristotle  ;  Moses  Maimonides 
(1189),  the  rabbi ;  Juan  de  Mena  (1412), 
the  author  of  *£1  Laberinto ;'  Sepul- 
reda,  Qongora,  O^spedes,  A.  de  Morales, 
etc. 

The  French,  under  Dupont,  June 
1808,  entered  the  unresisting  dty, 
whidi  they  sacked,  murdering  the  in- 
haUtsnti  in  cold  Uood.  The  plunder, 
according  to  Maldonado^  exceeded 
£100,000,  of  which  £26,000  alone  were 
found  among  Dupont's  luggage. 

Sights.— The  cathedral  (or  mosque), 
Alcaiar,  El  Triunfo,  churches,  minor 
sight%  and  the  enrirons. 

Oalhodral,  or  Mosqno:  its  His- 
tory.—On  entering  the  dty,  the  Moors, 
as  was  always  the  case,  assured  to  the 
Christians  the  liberty  of  thdr  religion, 
and  by  treaty  alloweil  them  the  uss  of 
their  cathedral,  dedicated  to  San  Vi- 
cente, built  on  the  dte  of  a  temple  of 
Janus.  All  the  other  churches  were 
destroyed  but  thii  one,  which  was  ex- 
tant in  746,  as  the  author  of  the  Akhbir 
Madjmona  asserts  most  formally. 

But  the  augmentation  of  population 
which  soon  arose  obliged  the  Moors  to 
adopt  here  the  plan  already  fdlowed  at 
DAmascns  and  Kmesia,  and  half  the 
cathedral  was  wrested  from  them  and 
conrerted  into  a  moeque,  just  as  half 
their  mosque  was,  centuries  sfter,  con- 
Terted  into  a  Christian  church.  In  784 
Abdu-r-rhiman  I.  insisted  on  obtaialog 


lU 


OOBDOYA — OATHKDRAL. 


the  other  lud(  and  a  trtniaotioii  enioed 
hj  which  the  Ghristiiiia  were  allowed 
to  rebuild  all  their  former  churohea, 
and  reoeiTed  for  their  cathedral  the  inm 
of  100,000  dinart  (£40,000,  bat  equal 
now  to  £440,600).  That  prince  had 
determined,  frem  political  aa  well  aa 
religiona  motiTea,  to  build  a  magnifi- 
cent moaque  «n  the  plana  of  that  of 
Damaacua,  to  eKceed  Uie  then  new  one 
of  Bagdad  in  aflendour  and  extent, 
and  comparable  onlj  to  the  Ackafth  of 
Jeruaalem.  It  waa  to  be  the  Mecca  of 
the  Weat,  and  to  be  called  the  Zeca,  or 
Houae  of  Purification,  and  pilgrimagea 
to  ita  wondroua  Mih-r^  were  to  be 
oonaidered  equiTalent  to  fthoae  made  to 
the  CaAba  of  the  Prophet  The  khalif 
in  peraon  deiigned  the  ediice,  gaTc  up 
for  ita  erection  a  large  portion  of  hia 
rerenue^  and  ia  aaid  to  haTc  worked  at 
it  himaelf  for  a  few  houre  ererf  daj. 

It  waa  begun  in  786^  and  the  follow- 
ing year,  on  the  untimely  death  of  the 
founder,  it  waa  alread j  much  adranced. 
Haahem  or  Hixem,  hia  aon,  continued 
it  on  the  aame  plana,  and  with  auch  ao- 
Uritj  that  it  waa  completed  in  79«— 
that  ii,  ten  yeara  after  the  irrt  atone 
waa  laid.  At  the  death  of  the  founder 
100,000  gold  doblaa  had  alreadj  been 
apentu  Abdu-r-rhAman  III.  erected  the 
fountaina  and  ita  moat  elegant  minaret. 
The  moaque  now  conaiated  of  eleren 
naTCi^  642  fL  long  by  298  ft.  wide.  Al 
Maaaoikr,  the  hadjeb  of  Haahem  II., 
ordered  eight  more  narea  to  be  added, 
and  erected  the  chapel  where  the  Imana 
aaaembled,  now  called  OapiUa  de  Y  illa- 
Ticioaa.  • 

On  entering  the  captured  city,  8t 
Ferdinand  had  the  mooque  purified  and 
dedicated  to  the  Yiigin.  Sereral  chapela, 
altua,  aacristiea,  et&,  wero  now  added, 
and  about  July  1521  the  tranaept  and 
choir  were  begun ;  but  when  Charles  Y., 
who  had  allowed  theae  worka  to  be 
made^  came  to  GordoTa  in  1526,  and 


aaw  what  had  taken  plaoe^  he  exclaimed 
indignantly : '  I  waa  not  aware  of  thii ; 
for  had  I  known  you  intended  to  touch 
the  ancient  portion,  1  would  not  haTc 
permitted  it  You  haTc  built  hero 
what  can  be  built  anywhero  dae,  but 
you  hare  deatroyed  what  waa  unique  in 
the  world.'  Henian  Bnia,  on  Septem- 
ber 7,  1628,  had  begun  the  worica;  the 
elegant  alminar  or  belfry,  built  by  Ab- 
du-r-rfatman,  and  which  had  alao  been 
disfigured  by  Henian  Ruix,  fell  to  the 
ground  and  waa  replaoed  by  the  preaent 
belfry. 

lU  StyU  and  iViqporCioiM.^The 
Mooque  of  CordoTa  may  be  oonaidered 
aa  the  moat  perfect  apedmen  extant,  ot 
erer  erected,  of  the  religioua  architec- 
turo  of  the  Moon  of  Spain.  Indeed,  it 
ia  generally  thought  to  be  'the  fineat 
type  in  Europe  of  the  true  temple  of 
Islam  ;'  and  aa  the  reault  and  exprea* 
aion  of  one  age,  one  plan,  one  idea,  the 
oonaequent  unity  of  deaign  ia  erident 
In  ahape  it  ia  the  Baailica,  adapted  to 
the  Moalem  worship.  Its  characteria- 
tica  aro  :  Tsatneai^  originality,  great 
simplicity  in  the  distribution,  aolidity 
aerero  and  maaaiye^  great  elegance  in 
the  carrea  and  profilea,  a  happy  com- 
bination of  linea  producing  Tistaa.  What 
this  odifioe  must  hare  be^  in  ita  palmy 
daya,  when  ita  roof  waa  higher  and  glia- 
teningwith  gilding  and  fivid  colour^ 
and  thouaands  of  gold  and  aflTsr  lampa ; 
when  ita  waUs  wero  worked  like  lace, 
and  looked  Kke  Osshmero  ahawla  iUu- 
minate<1  fit>m  behind,  and  ita  arohea  like 
ao  many  gigantic  bowa,  studded  with 
emeralds  and  rubies,  retting  on  mosaic 
trunks  of  porphyiy,  jasper,  and  other 
predoua  marbles^  may  be  imagined; 
but  now  whitewash  has  obliterated  the 
peat  magnificence,  and  ignorance  and 
neglect  hare  done  the  rest 

The  area  ia  642  ft.  long  N.  to  a,  by 
462  ft.  wide,  £.  to  W.  (this  being  the 
last  meaaurement  made  in  1811). 


OOBDOVA — OATHKDRAL. 


119 


ABterior.— The  widodng  waOt  are 
moft  piotaretqna^  and  pnterre  all  their 
Mooriih  ehenoter.  They  are  in  tapia^ 
areragiiig  from  80  to  60  ft.  in  hei^t» 
and  6  ft.  in  thickneaa,  andatrengthened 
here  and  there  by  eqnare  battreaa  towenL 
In  the  a  wall,  which,  by  the  deoliTify 
of  the  aite,  reached  a  great  heij^  were 
built  aa  many  aa  ^fa^**»  towen^  their 
whole  nomber  amoontingto  fortj-elght 
towen^  of  which  moat  remain.  There 
were  aizteen  entrancea,  and  twenty-one 
interior  doon.  The  external  oneawere 
generally  aqnare,  with  horaeahoearohea, 
and  Teiy  richly  decorated.  The  bonl- 
der%  atonea,  aiUonea,  of  which  the  waDa 
and  great  part  of  the  towera  are  bnilt^ 
were  of  the  aiie  need  by  the  Boman% 
4  ft.  long  and  2  ft.  wide.  The  almenaa 
(bnttreaaea  indented)  crowning  the 
walla  and  oonoealing  the  roof  are  abont 
9  ft.  high,  and  are  indented  and  trian- 
gular, except  here  and  there  on  the 
tower%  where  they  aarome  an  nnfiniahed 
large  flower-Taao  form.  Half  of  thoae 
towards  the  patio  hare  the  shape  of  a 
Heor-de-lyi^  bat  they  are  modem ;  whilat 
the  former  are  of  Peraian  origin,  with- 
oat  modela  in  Greece  or  Italy.  The 
Ooort  of  Orangea,  Paerta  del  Perdon, 
and  dstem  are  moat  Mooriih.  All  the 
former  ingrcaaea  erenow  blocked  ap  and 
dceed  aare  one.  Obaerre  thoee  on  the 
S.  aide,  with  their  rich  spandrila,  pillar- 
eta,  and  agimecee— /HiertocW  Ftridon  ia 
the  laigeat  and  moat  beantif oL  Theae 
entrancea,  very  common  in  Spanish 
cathedrals,  were  ao  called  from  the  in- 
dolgencea  granted  to  thoee  who  passed 
ander  them.  On  the  sides  of  it  are  the 
coats  of  arma  of  Oastile  and  Leon,  and  I 
the  inaoription  aroond  it  ia : 

'  On  thb  ain>  day  op  thb  month 
OP  March,  op  thb  bra  op  Cvsar, 
141 5  (i377a.c),  xnthbrsionopthb 
Most  High  and  Puissant  Don  £n 
EiQui,  King  op  dsnuL' 


The  doors  themselTee  are  eoriooaly  orna- 
mented with  bronae  arteaonillea,  form- 
ing different  pattema,  and  in  Gothic 
letters  the  won!  *  Deoa,'  and  in  Arabic 
charactera,  *The  Empire  belonga  to  God : 
allisHia.'  Intheltfthcentoryaeireral 
freaco  paintings  were  placed  orer  thia 
portal,  bat  they  were  defaced,  and 
wretched  onea  pat  np  in  the  17tli  and 
18th  centorieaL 

OmH  (/ OttMipeiL— Thia  patio,  4S0  ft. 
by  210  ft.,  ia  diTided  into  three  oaadroa 
or  qaartera ;  in  the  centre  of  each  is  a 
fonntain.  There  were  alwaya  treea  in 
it,  especially  palma  and  cyprsaasa,  many 
of  which  were  deetroyed  in  a  honicane 
(1823.)  Moat  of  the  preaent  orange- 
treea  date  16th  centory.  At  each  end, 
except  the  8.,  of  this  coort  is  a  colon- 
nade of  marble  piUara,  sapporting  dr- 
calararohea.  They  date  from  after  the 
captare  of  OordoTa  by  the  Christiana. 
The  dstem,  need  for  i^ntioos^  waapat 
up  in  946  by  Abda-r-rhAman,  and  the 
coort  ia  the  work  of  Said  Ben  Aynb^  087. 
On  each  aide  of  the  entrance  to  the  ca- 
thedral ia  a  Boman  military  colnmn, 
found  in  the  moaqoe  in  1582,  with  an 
inscription  stating  the  diatance  (114  m.) 
to  Cadis  from  the  Temple  of  Janaa, 
which  atood  oh  thia  site. 

Tks  Bs(/vy.^Th»  former  Moessin 
tower,  boilt  by  the  Khalif  Abda-r-riiA- 
man  IIL  on  the  aite  of  a  atOl  earlier 
one,  waa  modernised  by  the  Christians, 
and  then  palled  down  by  a  atorm,  and 
the  preeent  baatard  inaignificant  atrnc- 
tare  erected  in  1689  by  Heman  Rais, 
crowned  by  a  gQt  atatoe  of  St  BafaeL 

InUrior, — ^^le  first  imprfasion  ia  that 
of  bewilderment  and  astonishment,  pro- 
daced  by  the  interminable  and  aeem- 
inglyconibsedmazHSof  pillars,  compared 
by  a  French  writer  to  a  roofed-in  foreet 
Tlie  roof  ia  86  ft.  high  ;  the  cupolaa  are 
modem,  and  pat  np  in  1713.  The 
Moorish  roof  waa  flat,  the  beams  appa- 
rent, painted  and  gilt,  and  made  of  aleros 


116 


OOBDOVA — CATHEDRAL. 


(which  is  the  Thus  arHeulaia  or  Arbor 
vita,  a  wood  considered  incorruptible), 
which  when  taken  down  were  found  as 
eoond  as  when  placed  there  eleren  cen- 
turies before.  The  pillars  numbered 
once  upwards  of  1200,  now  reduced  to 
850  ;  but  if  we  include  those  embedded 
in  the  wslls  and  others  absorbed,  so  to 
say,  in  works  of  repair,  etc,  there  may 
eren  now  be  said  to  be  about  1000. 
They  axe  all  monolithic  (of  one  block), 
and  came,  already  shaped,  capitals  and 
all,  from  different  countries,  Roman 
temples,  mosques,  eta ;  in  Spain,  chiefly 
from  ScTille  end  Tarragona ;  in  France, 
from  Nismes  and  Narbonne ;  from  Car- 
thsge  in  Africa;  frt>m  Constantinople, 
whence  140  were  sent  as  a  present  by 
the  Emperor  Leo ;  and  hence  the  direr- 
sity  of  styles,  sizes,  etc  They  are  all 
of  marbles  of  different  hues  and  species 
— the  jasper,  green  and  blood  jasper,  the 
deep  black,  white,  red,  rose,  emerald, 
porphyry.  The  basements  were  sup- 
pressed, probably  toshorten  their  height 
The*  capitals  are  generally  Composite, 
almost  all  those  on  the  E.  side  Corin- 
thian ;  but  this  character  is  vaguely  ex- 
pressed and  rudely  conceived.  Others 
hare  purely  Arab  and  African  capitals. 
These  pillars  form  nineteen  spacious 
naves,  from  E.  to  W.,  and  twenty-nine 
from  N.  to  8.,  which,  intersecting  each 
other  at  right  angles,  produce  great 
variety  of  perspectives,  enhanced  by  the 
elegant  ultra-semicircular  or  horseshoe 
arches,  most  originally  placed  one  upon 
another,  and  which,  iised  in  this  mosque 
for  the  first  time,  add  to  its  architectural 
value:  The  important  additions  made 
by  Al-Hanssodr  are  in  the  African  style 
of  transition,  and  characterised  by  the 
presence  of  the  ogival  arch,  used  here 
for  the  first  time  in  the  Moorish  monu- 
ments of  Spain  and  the  type  of  the 
Spanish  ogival  style 

Th4  Mih^r&b,  CT  Sanctuary  of  the 
Jfotqm. — In  this  small  and  most  beau- 


tiftil  recess,  the  Othmanio  Koran  wai 
placed,  and  the  Ehalif^  the  Prince  ot 
the  Faithful,  Defender  of  the  Faith, 
Pope  and  Autocrat  at  the  same  time, 
used  to  perform  his  chotbd  or  public 
prayer  at  the  window  towards  the  ceca, 
or  holy  of  holies,  and  placed  to  the 
Kiblah,  or  S. — ^that  is,  in  the  direction 
of  Mecca.  This  Mih-rdb  forms  A 
heptagon  18  ft.  in  diameter,  and  274  ^ 
high  to  the  cupola.  The  pavement  is 
of  white  marble,  as  well  as  the  base- 
ment and  the  ahell-shaped  roof  (all  of 
one  block).  The  six  sides  of  the  hepta- 
gon are  decorated  with  three-lobed 
arches  resting  on  marble  pillarets,  with 
gilt  capitals  of  most  excellent  workman- 
ship. These  stand  upon  a  low  cornice, 
under  which  runs  an  inscription  in  gold. 
Inside  was  kept  the  pulpit  of  Al-Ha- 
kem  II.,  unpaialleled  in  the  world.  It 
was  all  of  ivory  and  precious  woods  and 
stones,  inlaid,  and  fastened  with  gold 
and  silver  nails ;  it  cost  some  £250,000, 
equal,  certainly,  now  to  a  million 
sterling  1  In  it  was  kept  the  famous 
copy  of  the  Koran  made  by  Othman, 
and  stained  with  his  blood.  It  was 
contained  in  a  box  covered  with  gold 
tissue,  embroidered  with  pearls  and 
rubies,  and  placed  on  a  lectern  made 
of  aloe,  with  gold  nails.  This  pulpit 
disappeared  not  very  long  ago.  At 
the  hour  of  the  Azalldi  this  book  was 
opened  and  read  by  the  Iman,  and 
then  taken  to  where  the  gold  and  silver 
sacred  vases  were  placed,  which  appeared 
in  the  illuminations  of  the  month  of  Ra- 
msdlffl. 

To  right  and  left  of  this  sanc- 
tuary were  the  habitations  of  the  clei^. 
To  the  right  was  also  a  door  leading  by 
a  passage  to  the  Khalif  s  Palace,  which 
was  close  by.  Al-Hakem  II.,  who  built 
the  Mih-rikb  and  Muksur2ih,  began 
these  works  about  901  A.O.  (according 
to  the  historian  of  Magreb,  Ibn  Adzari, 
published  in  the  original  by  Dozy  of 


OOBDOVA — CATHEDRAL. 


117 


Leyden,  tod  transUted  by  S.  Gayangos 
for  Sr.  Madrazo,  'Cordova,'  pp.  178-4). 
The  cupola  or  'cubba'  of  the  Mih-rkb 
was  pat  up  in  966,  according  to  some 
hitherto  unedited  documenta. 

Ths  motaie  omamefUalion  surpasses 
all  the  finest  examples  of  this  Byzantine 
art  elsewhere  in  Italy,  Africa,  or  the 
East  It  was  the  Greek  Psephdais  and 
Moorish  Sofeysafah.  The  Emperor  Leo 
sent  the  earliest  examples  of  it  to*Ab- 
du-r-rhiman  for  his  pdace  of  Azzahra. 
The  Cordovan  khalit,  Hnkem,  sent  an 
embassy  to  Constantinople,  asking  for 
artists  skilled  in  Uus  peculiar  way  of 
giving  to  glass,  flint,  and  metals  the 
effect  and  appearance,  and  almost  the 
texture,  of  a  velret  and  gold  brocade. 
The  artists  came,  bringing  as  presents 
835  quintals  of  this  enamelled  mosaic. 
The  designs  are  Byzantine,  as  all  ob- 
jects of  art  and  luxury  were  in  Western 
Europe  in  the  10th  century  already. 
This  as  well  as  the  rest  of  the  mosque 
must  have  shone  like  a  palace  of  the 
'Arabian  Nighty'  when  in  the  festi- 
Tities  of  the  Rhamadhki  this  Mih-rkb 
alone  was  lighted  up  by  a  lamp  number- 
ing 1454  lights,  and  the  601bs.-taper 
placed  by  the  khalit .  The  rest  of  the 
mosque  was  lighted  by  4  lamps  like  the 
above ;  880  candelabra,  most  of  bronze. 
The  total  number  of  lights  was  10,805, 
and  750  arrobas  of  oil  were  used  per 
month.  (See 'ALMakkart,voLL  book 
8d,  chapter  ii.)  The  Cufic  inscription 
refers  to  the  two  columns  placed  at  the 
entrance  in  965  a.  a  by  Al-Hakem. 

When  last  we  visited  this  mosque, 
Muley-Abbas,  a  brother  of  the  Em- 
peror of  Morocco,  had  just  been  through 
it  He  went  seven  times  on  his  knees 
round  the  sanctuary,  as  was  wont  with 
the  Moors  here  and  at  Mecca,  and 
sighed  and  prayed,  and  then  wept 
loudly,  sobbing  like  a  child.  AU  this 
iplendoor  had  been  the'  work  of  his 
BOOiitori.    They  had  raised  this  won- 


der, and  now  the  degenerate  Moor 
could  not  even  read  tibe  Arabic  in- 
scriptions 1 

Tks  formal  endUm  nf  the  mo9qu€ 
into  a  eaihedral  took  place  in  1288, 
under  the  usual  name  of  Sta.  Maria. 
The  lateral  aisles  were  converted  into 
chapels. 

ffi^  CMapeZ.— Built .  in  1547,  by 
Heman  Ruiz,  and  finished  by  his  son 
and  Di^  de  Praves,  1599.  The  style 
of  it  is  Morocco-Gothic  and  plateresque. 
The  fine  retablo,  which  cost  50,000 
ducats,  is  the  work  of  the  Jesuit  Matias 
Alonao^  who  began  it  in  1618,  and 
finished  it  ten  years  after.  It  is  made 
out  of  the  rosy  jasper  from  Careabuey, 
with  gilt  bronze  ornaments.  The 
painting  is  by  Antonio  Palomino.  The 
statues  indifferent  The  tabemade, 
also  byAlonso,  aided  by  Sebastiau 
Vidal  (1658),  is  very  rich,  and  well 
executed.  Observe  the  magnificent 
silver  lamp  hanging  from  the  roof^  and 
wei^iing  16  arrobas  (1686). 

CAotr.'This  is  the  work  of  Heman 
Ruiz,  who  commenced  it  in  1528,  and 
finished  it  in  1589.  The  style  is  pla- 
teresque and  effective.  The  tkUU  are 
sixty-three  in  number,  and  by  Isabel 
Famesio*s  favourite  sculptor,  Pedro 
Duque  Comcjo,  1257— churrigueresque^ 
but '  there  is  great  finiahing  in  the 
elaborate  details.  The  mahogany  jml" 
piU,  with  attributes  of  the  Evangelists, 
are  clumsy — the  work  of  Miguel  Verdi- 
guier  (1766).  Bnir$  Urn  amm  lies  Lope 
de  Rneda,  the  grtet  comic  writer, 
superior  in  many  points  to  Moliire. 

CkaptU. — ^Theibrty-five  chapels  and 
offices  around  the  naves  are  meetly 
very  indifferent  They  date  generally 
from  a  period  unfiavourable  to  taste  in 
art,  and  their  pictures,  statues,  etc., 
are  very  indifferent  Notice  notwith- 
standing 

QipiUa  «U  Am  Andrii  (1628).— A 
picture  of  St  Bnk^o^  by  Y.  Oarducho. 


118 


OORDOVA. 


0,  San  StUban,^-UutjTdom.  of  the 
mint  by  Lnii  Zambiano.  • 

(7.  dd  CardmtU  <S!a2(u»r.— Finlthed 
1706;  founded  bj  Cardinel  Sektar; 
churrignereeqae.  la  the  aacrittU 
major  inquire  for  the  fine  Cnttodia  of 
1Mb  (Qothic),  for  the  Orm  AiUigua, 
ML  of  florid  Qothio  deUile,  but  ill  re- 
paired. The  relies  are  kept  here.  The 
beaatiftil  Cnstodia  of  Arf(&  waa  begun 
1618,  and  flniahed  1618. 

The  chapel  of  ViUavidon  ia  still 
intereating  to  risit  for  its  Moorish  style, 
and  it  waa  the  Maksorah  once,  all 
pared  with  silyer.  There  are  no  inte- 
resting tombs.  C^pedes  is  boned  in 
front  of  Chapel  of  San  Pablo  (ob.  1608). 
Observe  thii  artist's  paintings  of  St 
John,  St  Andrew,  and  The  Lut  Sap- 
per, his  masterpiece.  Oyer  altar  de 
San  RafiM]  hangs  the  Apparition  of 
the  saiat^  a  fioe  paioUng  by  the  ssme 
master.  A  pillar  is  showa  with  a 
radely  traoed  Crucifixioa,  uAd  to  hare 
beea  the  work  of  a  Christian  captire, 
who  ezecnted  this  woader  with  his  nail, 
and  whilst  he  was  for  years  fastened  to 
this  pillar;  an  improbable  story,  as  the 
Moors  never  could  hare  tolerated  a 
Christian  captire  within  a  mosque; 
besides  which,  they  had  prisons  on 
parpose. 

Hours^— Theoathedraliaopenallday. 
Therelica  may  be  seen  after  2JM)  r.M. 

Xinor  Ohiirchoa* — 0(>UgicUad4San 
HipUUtk-^JM^  middle  of  14th  cen- 
tury. BaOt  by  Alfonso  XL,  in  thanks- 
giring  for  hia  rictory  at  Tarifii,  when 
he  won  the  battle  del  Salado,  1840. 
Philip  y.,  in  1728,  remored  to  this 
churdi  the  Capilla  Beal,  formeriy  in 
tha  cathedral,  and  founded  in  1781 
by  Henrique  XL  Ferdinand  lY.  and 
his  SOD,  the  chiralroua  and  gallant 
Alfonso  XL,  lie  buried  here.  This 
church  waa  modernised  in  1729,  and  ia 
In  tha  rile  taste  of  that  period.    In  the 


High  Chapel  lie  the  bodies  of  the  lather, 
mother,  and  brother  of  the  grmn  eapUan, 
Qonxalo  de  Cordora,  luckier  than  this 
great  hero,  whose  ashes  were  scattered 
to  the  winds  daring  the  French  inva- 
sion. Here  also  lies  the  erudite  'cro- 
nista'  Ambrosio  de  Morales,  in  a  plain 
tomb  erected  by  his  pupil,  Caidinal 
Sandoral  y  Rojas^  Archbishop  of  To- 
ledo. The  privileges,  etc,  of  the  Boyal 
Chapel  and'  Colegiata  were  suppressed 
by  government  in  1862. 

^ureh  (/  Sta,  Marina  d$  Agua» 
Santas, — ^Modernised,  except  on  the 
outside.  Founded  in  7th  century,  but 
rebuilt  ofter  the  conquest  Some  in- 
different pictures  and  tombs  of  the 
Benavidei^  and  of  a  Marquesa  de  Oua- 
dalcazar  (ob.  1808),  who  (a  rare  in- 
stance in  Spain)  waa  a  blue  stocking, 
JDodora  tn  Filoao/ia  y  Ldrat  Hwnamai^ 
Fellow  of  the  Spanish  Royal  Academy, 
eta,  and  died  sged  thirty-five.  Most 
of  Uie  parish  churches  date  18th  and 
14th  centuries,  but  have  been  so  ill  re- 
paired and  churriguerised  that  they 
have  lost  most  of  their  importance. 

Hu  Bdfry  Tower  of  San  Nicola*  is 
very  pretty  and  Moorish-like.  Upon 
it  are  the  words,  'Psdencia,  obedi- 
encia,'  said  to  hare  been  put  up  as  a  re- 
proof to  the  nuns  of  San  Martin,  for- 
merly in  this  square,  who  objected  to 
this  church  being  erected  opposite  to 
them,  as  it  would  impede  the  prospect 
they  then  eigoyed.  Visit  the  doisters 
and  staircase  of  San  Paiilo  ;  Alo.  Cano'a 
Ecce  Homo,  in  Chapel  of  San  Poiro  el 
Mtal,  now  a  cloth-manufactory;  and 
outside  the  town  is  the  picturesquely- 
situated  Santuario  de  N.  Sra.  de  Fuen- 
ssnta  (8th,  9th,  and  10th  September 
are  great  holidays,  kept  up  here  with 
pomp  end  pious  jollification).  Obserre 
four  oopper  paintings,  ascribed,  to 
Teniers,  one  of  which  represents  the 
*  Crowning  Christ  with  Thorns.' 

Th4  JUaaar,  or  Khalifs  Palaos^  was 


COBDOVA — THS  ALOAZAB. 


119 


rerj  eztemiT^  and  oocapied  the  die 
of  the  present  prieon,  bidiopriek,  etc. 
Kow  nothing  remains  ssre  a  few  walls 
and  oroharda.  It  waa  aitnated  W.  of 
the  dtjf  and  8.  of  the  riirer.  It  waa 
the  former  palace  of  the  Qothic  kings, 
where  the  khalifii  lodged  first,  and  then 
repaired  and  modified  it^  enlarging  it 
eonaiderablj.  The  little  we  Imowof 
thia  palace,  donbtlees  magnificent  and 
spadona,  is  derifed  fh>m  Al-Makkari 
Ibn-Baahknwal,  and  Aben  Hayyim, 
who  mention  ita  wonderful  gardens  and 
halli^  and  its  baths  prorided  with  water 
bron^t  from  the  €hiadalqniyir  through 
a  hydimniic  brick  machine,  called  Albo- 
Ufia.  Theae  baths  existed  till  the  end 
of  thelSth  oentory,  when  the  machine, 
probaU  J  in  the  ahape  of  a  huge  hy- 
dranlio  wheel,  waa  deatrojred  becanae  ita 
noise  kept  Qacen  Isabella  awake,  when 
ahewaa  lodged  in  the  Alcaar.  The 
Alcaar  Nnero^  now  a  prison,  waa  for- 
merlj  the  reaidence  of  the  Santo  Ofida 
(Inquisition),  and  built  in  1S28  by  Al- 
fonso XI.  It  is  a  aquare^  endoaed  by 
a  thick  wall,  with  towers  at  the  angles. 
The  interior,  with  ita  twenty  dungeons 
(calaboios)  and  seren  patios^  we  adriN 
readers  to  abstain  from  fidting^  for  it 
is nowthe abode  of  misery,  rice, filth, 
and  n^lect  The  gardena  of  the  Al- 
caar are  most  indifferent  and  weedy. 
In  the  chapd  is  a  good  Crudfizion  by 
A.  dd  Oaatillo. 

The  Bishop's  Palace  datea  of  15th 
century,  but  waa  condderably  repaired 
and  almost  rebuilt  in  1746,  in  the  chur- 
rigueresque  style.  Ferdinand  YII., 
whoee  late  seems  to  haTe  been  to  dwdl 
in  confinement^  waa  kept  here  a  pri- 
aoner  in  1828,  and  attempted  to  escape. 
In  the  Toum  IlaU  are  kept  the  archirea 
of  the  dty»  deficient  in  general  interest 
and  ill  arranged. 

Mwtta, — Cordora  nerer  produced 
grsat  painters  —  Pablo  de  C^spedes, 
Arbasiai  and  thdr  pupils^  Mohedano, 


Zambrano^  B^>hadesque  in  his  styles 
Yds,  who  imitated  Ouducd,  Contreras 
and  Pefta,  and  the  modem  Monroy,  are 
the  only  names  we  know  o£  The  style 
they  adopted  waa  Italian  and  SeWllian. 
The  preeent  picture-gallery  contains 
some  289  paintings  —  all  rubbidi. 
Among  other  curiosidadea,  we  may 
mention  a  email  bronxe  deer,  add  to  be 
Mooridi  woric,  and  to  haTe  been  found 
in  the  gardens  of  Anhara. 

WoUb  amd  6^ate.->The  walls  are  all 
of  Mooriah  workmanships  thou^  re- 
paired since.  They  are  of  tapia,  and 
strengthened  by  bold  turrets^  square, 
octagon,  etc  The  gatee  hare  lost 
mud^  and  many  all  tiidr  piotuiesque 
former  diaracter ;  notice,  nererthdea^ 
that  6f  AlmodoTsr;  of  El  Oaario, 
flanked  by  turreta  ;  that  of  El  Puente, 
after  des^pia  by  Herrera ;  the  two  good 
basd-rdieri  abore  are  aacribed  to  Torri- 
giano.  Julius  Cnsar  describes  the  ori- 
gind  drcumyallation,  of  which  little 
haa  been  changed  since  (B.a  11-19). 
Around  the  AlmodoTar  gate  lay  the 
andent  Juderia,  or  Jews'  quarters,  and 
it  waa  called  by  the  Moors  after  them 
<Bab-l-Tahud.'  The  tower  doee  to  it, 
Tom  d4  la  Mala  MuerU,  datea  1 40e. 

Th$  JM^— The  bridge  orer  the 
Quaddquirir  ia  said  by  the  Arab  writers 
to  haTe  been  originally  built  by  Octa- 
Tiua  Gbsar,  but  it  waa  entirdy  rebuilt 
by  the  khdifii  of  OordoTa.  It  is  com- 
posed of  sixteen  arches,  and  is  Tery 
IMctuxesque^  as  well  as  the  Moorish 
mills  dose  toit^  and  the  Oalahcrra 
(Kalat  honeyi)  tower,  with  ita  pdy- 
gond  barbican  and  buttresses,  is  moat 
effeotiTes  and  played  an  important 
part  in  Uie  aiige  of  CordoTa  by  Pedro 
ofCastOe. 

The  jCndf  of  Moorish  CordoTa  are 
the  first  that  were  erer  paTedin  Europe 
and  were  ao  by  order  of  Abdu-r^rhlmaB, 
in  850.  The  prindpal  onea  are  the 
Oalle  de  la  Feria,  now  de  San  Fernando^ 


120 


COBDOVA. 


San  Pablo,  Carnieerii,  Sta.  Victoria,  el 
Potro,  etc  Visit  the  quaint  and  very 
old  aqnare  of  La  Corrodent  to  called 
becanae  it  waa  the  aite  where  tonma- 
menta  and  eorrtr  torot  took  place.  The 
wooden  galleriea,  etc,  date  1688,  and 
are  the  work  of  Uie  popolar  and  fieunoaa 
Alcalde  Ronqnillo.  Readera  of  *  Don 
Qnizote'  will  not  fail  toTidt  the  Potro, 
a  popular  qnarter,  ao  called  becanae 
formraly  a  horae-market  (fotro,  a  filly). 
Viait  the  Chapel  of  Hoapital  del  Car- 
denal,  which  waa  part  of  the  moaqne 
boilt  by  Al-Manaaodr,  near  hia  palace 

El  Triuitfb  ia  a  heavy,  dnmsy  monu- 
ment, erected  by  Biahop  Barcia  in  com- 
memoration of  ihemiraculoua  apparition 
of  St  BafiMl,  the  tutelar  of  Cordova, 
whoae  atatue  crowna  thla  wtetohed 
monument  (1766). 

PrivaU  ffouta  amd  /Voii^Mte.— Moit 
of  the  fine  old  aolarea  built  in  the  15th 
and  16th  centuriea  no  longer  exiat,  or 
are  ao  disfigured  aa  to  deaerve  no  atten- 
tion. Obaerve  the  houae  of  the  Mar- 
queaea  del  Carpio  (18th  century),  and 
Uiat  which  belonged  to  the  famfly  of 
Paei  de  Castillejo. 

Of  the  900  hatha,  remainaof  two  only 
may  be  aeen,  in  Oille  del  Bafio  Alta, 
No.  5,  aod  Calle  del  Bafio  Bi^«>  ^o- 10. 
They  have  been  aadly  disfigured,  but 
atOl  preaerve  their  marble  colurona,  the 
aquaro  lumbreraa  (lomru^  loopholea), 
etc  IntheOalledeksCabeiaaiaalao 
a  houae  called  de  laa  Oabeiaa,  fh>mthe 
heada  of  the  In£uitea  de  Lara,  that  were 
placed  on  the  facade.  The  ballad, 
mentioning  how  theae  heada,  treache- 
roualy  cut  ofl;  were  aerved  before  the 
Infantea'  lather,  ia  very  charaoteriatio 
of  that  time  I — 

Un  oottoM  pUto  fidu. 
Ay,  frata  teaptaMi  1  mc 

(See  A.  de  Horaleir  <  Cr6n.,'  lib.  zxvi, 
etc)  Viait  the  Mooriah  houaea,  called 
Oaaa  de  la  Cuadra,  in  the  Plaauela  de 


San  Kioolaa,  remarkable  for  its  gal- 
lery of  jaaper  columns,  with  Bynntine 
capitals^  and  a  beauUftil  arch,  aadly 
whitewaahed.  That  of  Las  Campana% 
oppoaite  to  Church  de  Santiago,  also 
preaervea  vestiges  of  past  splendour  and 
taste 

Within  the  city  is  also  the  Oami^o 
(now  Campo  Santo),  where  Chriaitian 
martyrs  were  put  to  death,  and  the  aite 
of  the  Boman  fortresa  and  Mooriah  Al- 
casar.  It  waa  hereabouta  that  grew 
the  celebrated  plane-tree,  planted  by 
Juliua  Cnaar  aftw  the  battle  of  Munda, 
and  which  Martial  mentiona : — 

In  Tartessbds  domns  est  iioliMinMi  term, 
Qna  dhres  pfaicidiim  Covduba  Bctin  amat. 

E^,  6t,bookiz. 

The  house  of  El  Conde  del  Aguila 
(Plaza  Anto.  Cabrera)  is  also  curioua. 


BxoQraiona. — ^Three  miles  K.W.  of 
Cordova  in  a  dehesa  belonging  to 
Marq.  de  Guadaleaiar,  anywhere  now 
but  very  rare  fragmenta  of  broken 
pillara  are  found,  roae  once  the  fairy 
palace  of  Azddira,  built  by  Abdu-r- 
rhAman  An-nasir,  for  hia  sultana  of 
that  name  It  waa  all  of  marblea, 
jasper,  and  atone,  with  great  richneaa 
of  decoration — ^the  atatue  of  the  favour- 
ite being  placed  over  the  door.  The 
architect  waa  the  moat  fiunoua  that 
Stamboul  could  produce,  and  thia  royal 
village,  a  Mooriah  Versailles^  aprang 
forth,  as  if  by  magic,  under  the  wand 
of  the  Louia  XI V.  of  that  period.  His 
harem  contained  6800  women  and  800 
hatha.  Hia  body-guard  amounted  to 
12,000  men.  Hia  houaehold  conaumed 
18,000  Iba.  of  meat  daily.  The  worka 
were  begun  in  986-7  A.a,  and  lasted 
many  years.  8000  mules,  horses,  and 
camels  weredaily  employed,  with  10,000 
workmen,  who  were  paid  from  one  to 
three  dirhema  a-day  (about  £1).  The 
khalif  waa  so  abs^bed  by  the  works 


OOBBOVA — BX0UB8I0NS. 


i21 


that  he  eren  mknd  three  Fridaje'  Za- 
Uh  at  the  moeqiie,  npon  which  the  the- 
ologiui  MmidhAr  threatened  him  pub- 
licly with  hell  fire.  4300  marble 
ecdmnna  were  brought  from  Borne,  Nar- 
bonne,  Tnnia,  etc.  The  total  ooet 
amoonted  to  7|  mfflions  of  dinahre 
(524  milliona  aterling),  which  were  de- 
frayed by  the  third  of  the  emperor*a 
rerenne.  Many  other  detaik  concern- 
ing  this  wondroos  palace  and  ita  two 
moeqnea  may  be  found  in  Al-Makkart's 
hiatoriea-' Hist  of  Magreb^'  by  Ben 
Adari,  etc.  There  is  here  a  bnried 
mine  of  Moorish  art»  that  calls  loudly 
foralCarietteoraLayard.  SeeJZaeitfr' 
clot,  ste.,  d$  EtpcMa,  Oordoy%  p.  407. 

An  excursion  may  be  also  made,  espe- 
cially in  summer  or  spring,  to  the  Arri' 
attfOf  i  league  from  OordoTa,  on  the 
slopes  of  the  Sierra,  and  in  a  charming 
situation.  It  was  the  Bissefidi,  a  TiUa 
erected  by  Abdu-r^hAman,  but  of  which 
nothing  now  remains.  The  present 
edifice  and  gardens  belong  to  the  land- 
lord of  Hotel  Suiso,  who  lets  it  on  Teiy 
moderate  terms.  An  omnibus  daily  in 
summer.  The  country  around  is  woody, 
and  pleasant  paseos  can  be  taken.  The 
carob-tree,  erergreen  oak,  rariegated 
dstui^  myrtlei^  and  palms  grow  forest- 
like. According  to  Conde,  that  master 
in  erudite  errors,  the  first  palm  erer 
seen  in  Spain  was  planted  here  by  Abdu- 
r-rhAman,  who  is  said  to  hare  composed 
to  it  the  melancholy  rerses  in  which  he 
compares  his  life  to  that  of  the  tree 
transplanted  from  other  lands  : — 


Xa  tunbiait 

SfM  M|ttl  fcmtm«  etc. 

Close  by  are  the  ffermUagis  nf  Vol- 
pmraim.  The  ErmUoi  are  Tery  pic- 
turesquely situated,  and  endosed  by  a 
low  walL  The  head  hermit^  or  hermano 
mayor,  hasa  laiger  house  than  the  rest 
The  chapel  is  indifferent  Monastio 
and  eremitical  lifein  Cordoraisof  great 


antiquity,  and,  it  is  thou^t^  was  intro- 
dueed  by  the  celebrated  Bishop  Hosius, 
who  hsd  seen  it  in  Egypt  These 
wretched  horels,  now  chiefly  inhabited 
by  lasiness  and  ignorance^  were  once 
the  refrige  to  which  worn-out  Talour, 
deluded  ambition,  and  often  repentant 
crime,  fled  during  the  middle  ages. 
Around  are  ssTcral  lorely  rides,  throu^ 
rose-gardens,  pine-forests  (Pmuipmm)^ 
chestnuts,  and  oliTes.  The  resales  of 
GordoTa  were  once  the  pride  of  the  Moor, 
and  sung  by  their  poets.  They  culti* 
▼ated  them  with  great  care  ai^  inge- 
nuity. £bn-el-Amam's  'Ha^ji,'  <Abdu- 
el-8air,*  and  other  special  treatiies,  are 
curious  to  consult  on  this  matter. 

Another  ride  takes  one  to  the  ruins 
of  a  hieronymite  convent,  looking  oTer 
the  Campifta,  and  lying  amid  orange- 
groTSi^  evergreen  oaks^  and  luxuriant 
oUves.  These  latter  are  reckoned  the 
best  in  Andalusia,  though  some  prefer 
the  Serillanas.  Lope  de  Rueds,  in  his 
charming  'entremes,'  called  'Las  Acei- 
tunas,*  praises  those  of  CcrdoTa  ;  and 
Lope  de  Vega,  in  his  *  BatUe  of  the 
Gate,'  'La  Gatomaquia,'  sayi^  'Las 
sabrosas  de  Gordoba  aceitunas.'  The 
coscoja,  or  scarlet  oak  (^m  which  the 
kermes  proceeds),  the  msdro&ce^  or 
strawbeny-tree^  qoejigo,  the  piffple 
sauge^  the  straw-coloural  gualda,  woad 
blue,  splendid  nigela,  will  draw  the  at- 
tention of  all  botanists  and  lorers  of 
flowen.  Indeed,  the  mineralogist  need 
not  be  idle ;  immense  coalfidds^  copper 
minei^  etc.,  abound  in  the  Sierra  Al- 
magrera,  besides  very  important  quarries 
of  porphyiy,  white  and  black  marbles, 
etc.  Nor  will  the  sportsman  lose  here 
his  time,  for  the  sierra  abounds  with 
game  ;  there  are  S42  species  of  birds  ; 
Uie  lynx  (Felix  pardina) ;  the  melon 
(or  fferpuUt  widringicniij,  almost  un- 
known to  naturalists ;  the  grifo  (Oipa$* 
tu»  barbatui);  the  wild  boar,  deer, 
ffhMni>M^  harei^  and  especially  rabbit% 


123 


OOBUl^A. 


Anglers  will  not  find  mnoh  to  do  in  the 
QnadilqniTir  and  efflnenti,  which, 
nerertheleaa,  prodnoe  tenoai  (tenches), 
berbos  (bsrbel),  snd  exquisite  eels, 
(anguilss). 

There  is  sn  indifferent  Plszade  Toros 
and  a  theatre.  The  Pablio  Library, 
called  Blblioteca  ProTincial,  contains 
7000  Tolnmes,  mostly  collected  from 
sappreased  conTents ;  free  and  daily 
admittance. 

SxCVMlOlf  TO  MOMTILLA. 

i/.  A— iBtdwcing  only  for  Um  wioe-cdbis, 
vines,  etc.,  of  MoodUa. 

CM*M9UMW»r.— By  the  Cordova  to  Malaga 
laiL  Cordova  to  MootOla,  distance,  50  kiL  ; 
time,  i|  hri.    Fares,  ist  cL,  071.  ssc. :  td  cL, 

IfMi^lflk^A decent posada.  ThMsaalland 
now  oniaqtortant  city,  popi  I4.6S4»  (•  pictur- 
esqnely  sttuated  on  the  two  hills  of  El  Castillo 
and  L«s  SOeias,  from  which  the  view  is  exten- 
nve.  Its  churdies  are  indilTerenL  In  the 
hiffhest  part  stood  once  the  HMSt  glorioos  castle 
in  an  Andahtsaa,  which  was  hailt  by  the  Grsn 
Capitan's  fiuher,  Pedro  Fern,  de  Cordova,  and 
demolished  by  order  of  Ferdinand  the  Catholic, 
to  punish  its  owner,  Marqnds  del  Arigo,  for 
havinf  imprisoned  within  its  dungeons  Feman 
Gomes  de  Herra.  The  site  is  now  occupied  by 
some  large  granaries.  This,  the  Roman  Munda 
Betica,  is  now  a  dull,  backward  town,  celebrated 


only  for  its  exquisite  MontiDa,  a  peculiar, 
flavoury  sort  of  dry,  light  sherry,  with  much 
body,  and  which  communicates  aroma  to  all  the 
wines  it  b  mixed  with,  and  especially  sheny. 
The  MMwiifaMi^  sherry  indicates  a  dam  of  wine 
whichi^Havour  somewhat  resemblesthatofMon- 
^'Mm  It  is  ahnost  ignored  elsewhere  than  here, 
but  must  some  day  rival  sherry  itself,  and  there 
are  fortunes  to  be  made  here,  were  specularinn 
and  industry  10  venture  establishments.  There 
are  several  wine-growers,  whose  bodegas  may 
be  visited ;  among  them  we  shall  mention  Sr. 
Alvear,  a  gentleman  of  Anglo-Spanish  origin. 
These  wines  have  no  other  rivals  in  Spain,  save, 
perhaps,  those  ofPag»dt  Ri0  FrU.  near  Cmbm, 
3  leagues  from  BacmL 

Boola  of  Brferenee.—!.  *  Corogralla 
de  la  Provinda  y  Obispado,'  by  Casas- 
Desa.  First  YoL  only  published.  Cor- 
doba, Nogn^  y  Hant^  1888. 

2.  'Brere  Tratado  de  Geografla  de 
la  ProTincia  de  Cordoba,'  by  same ; 
Cordoba,  Garda,  1841.    Both  excellent 

works. 
8.  'Indicaor  Cordobes,' etc.,  written 

especially  for  trayellers  by  Las-Casas- 

Desa ;  Cordoba,  Rodrigaes,  1867.    £x- 

cellent  and  acoiurate. 

4.  The  geology  of  the  enyirons  of 

CordoTa  has  been  studied  by   Pratt, 

*Bal.  French  Soc  GeoL,  2d  snies,  yoL 

I  T.  p.  298,  1848. 


coruRa  OJO. 


Capital  of  pror.  of  same  name ;  sof- 
friganofSantisga  Pop.  (1881)  80,182. 
Capitsnia-Qeneral  of  Qalida. 

Boutea  and  Oonr. — 1.  From  Mad- 
rid, by  Aalorffa;  Northern  R.  line 
to  Bayonne,  as  far  as  Ya.  de  Ba&os; 
time  84  hrs.  Branch  to  PaUnda  (San- 
tander  Ry.) ;  time  i  hr.  PaL  to  As- 
torga  by  rail ;  time  64  hrs.  by  Leon  ; 
dist,  176  kil.  ,  Fares— 1st cL,  77r. ;  2d 
cl,  67r.  76c  At  Astorga  take  da  to 
Cmfta,  48  leagnes ;  time  2days. 


tHneraryfirom  A  iUrgm  {tks 


AstoroL 

Bcmbibre 

ViUafruica 


Sobrado 
Logo  . 
Bshamnndft 


LaConiBa 


The  best  dOigeoces  art  those 
Peno  Canilaaa. 


CORURA — ROUTBS,  VtC 


135 


Roun  (from  Leon,  p.  2\S).—Orbiffo, 
—The  bridge  cirer  tlie  Orbigo  was,  on 
the  10th  Jtdy  1484,  the  lite  of  the  jnu 
itarmm  called  El  PUo  Honroeo,  per- 
formed bj  Don  Soero  de  QniAones, 
when  he  challenged  and  fought  daring 
ten  days  all  knights  who  pasMd  on  their 
way  to  the  grand  jnbilee  at  Santiago ; 
and  this  he  did  in  order  to  be  entitled 
to  lemoTe  an  iron  link  which  he  wore 
roond  his  neck  tvvj  Thursday  in  token 
of  hii  captiyity  to  the  lady  of  his  lore. 
177  lances  were  split,  serenty-eight 
knights  baring  accepted  the  chidlenge, 
and,  though  called  a  (fentle  pom,  one 
knight  was  killed  and  eleren  wouAded ; 
but  Don  Staero  prored  yictorioui^  and 
the  link  was  reniored  by  heralds  amid 
great  pomp  and  ceremony.  His  swwd 
is.  at  the  Madrid  annouiy.  Ho.  1917. 

The  country  is  flat  and  most  unin- 
teresting faring  and  dusty  in  summer, 
and  wind-blown  in  the  wintry  months. 

▲storga  (ProT.  of  Leon). — Bishop's 
se^  4808  inhab.  Fonda  da  NorU,—- 
This  Tery  ancient  dty,  the  Astmriea 
Augruta  of  Pliny,  was  an  important 
centre  of  commnidoation  in  the  time  of 
the  Romans,  and  four  vim  diveiged, 
leading  to  Bngai  Zaragoa^  Tarragona, 
and  to  Aquitaineb  across  the  Pyrenees. 
Its  wall%  of  Roman  work,  were  re- 
spected by  Witisa,  an  exception  whidi 
he  extended  only  to  Leon  and  Toledo. 
TheystCU  subsist  inall  their  picturesque- 
nesB  and  strength,  linked  here  and  tha« 
by  maasiTe  cubos^  and  forming  a  pro- 
longed oblong  square,  extending  from 
E.  to  W.,  and  following  the  lerel  of 
the  ground.  On  the  E.  extremity, 
sereral  Roman  sarcophagi  are  embedded 
in  them.  The  part  played  by  this 
dty  in  the  annals  of  Spain  is  yery 
seoond-imte.  It  fell  a  prey  to  Moussa's 
sddien^  was  recoTcred  by  Alfonso  I., 
rebuilt  and  peopled  again  byOrdofio 
IL  with  the  inhabitants  of  the  Yieno, 
then  taken  by  Al-lfansso6r,  etc.    Dur- 


ing the  Peninsular  war  it  offered  ■ 
herdc  resistance  first  to  Loison  (1810), 
and  next  to  Junot,  who  was  obliged  to 
retire^  but  subsequently  entered,  a  capi- 
tulation being  offered.  Its  capabilities 
of  resistance,  were,  howerer,  scanty, 
and  the  surrender  excusable.  Astoiga 
is  the  capital  of  La  Maragateria,  a  dis- 
trict of  some  four  leagues  square^  dtn- 
sted  between  the  Pioos  of  £1  Tdeno 
and  Foncebadon,  to  aW.  of  Astorga^ 
and  exdudrdy  peopled  by  the  honesi; 
actiTc,  and  interesting  race  of  Mazagatos 
(Mauri  Oapti),  who  are  descendants,  it 
is  supposed,  from  the  Moon^  whose  wide 
breedieB  and  part  of  thdr  costume  they 
hare  preserred.  The  prindpal  dght 
here  is 

TK€  OaiMraL—Tht  see  of  Astorg» 
is  as  old  as  847,  when  its  bishop^  Domi- 
tian,  was  present  at  the  Oc^mdl  of 
Sardes.  The  cathedral  dates  1471,  and, 
owing  to  several  repairs,  has  been 
modernised,  and  presents  a  medley  of 
Gothic,  churrigueresque^  and  pliier- 
esquei 

The  interior  is  diWded  into  three 
nayes,  the  lateral  ones  being  Tery  nar- 
row and  lower  than  the  centraL  It  is 
68  metres  long  by  88  widei  The  itattt 
Iff  tk$  €hoir  are  elaboratdy  carred  in 
imitation  of  the  early  period  of  Ckythic ; 
they  date  1661,  an4  sre  the  work  of 
Tomas  and  Roberto.  The  lower  row 
consists  of  busts  of  saints  of  Old  Testa- 
ment ;  it  is  inferior  to  the  uj^wr  row, 
in  which  admire  the  male  saints  on  the 
right,  and  female  saints  on  the  left; 
aoootding  to  etiquette^  all  of  the  Hew 
Testament  Some  of  the  stained  i^ass 
is  good,  but  not  early.  '  The  trasooto 
was  churriguerised  in  1788.  The  rqia 
and  pulpit  are  fine^  and  date  1688;  by 
L4aro  Asoain,  of  Bilbao.  The  finest 
thing  here  is  the  wtaAfo  mayor,  the  mas- 
ter^eoe  of  Gkspar  de  Becerr^  166i^ 
and  for  which  the  chapter  paid  41,000 
dueatiL    Itisofpent^ooalshi^eaeh 


124 


OORURA — ROUTES,  Eia 


ci  the  five  oompArtments  consisting  of 
three  tiers  ;  the  centre  of  the  principal 
tier  is  occupied  by  a  tabernacle  adorned 
with  figures,  and  under  a  canopy  sup- 
ported by  two  angels ;  that  of  ^e  se- 
cond represents  the  Assumption  of  the 
Virgin,  who. is  seated  on  a  throne 
formed  by  cherubs  ;  that  of  the  third 
is  her  coronation.  This  grand,  simple, 
and  beautiful  sculptured  poem  is 
crowned  with  groups  representing  the 
Passion.  The  relieyos  represent  the 
different  episodes  of  the  Yiigin's  life, 
and  are  of  the  three  orders.  Obsenre 
and  admire  the  execution,  draperies, 
attitudes,  and  expression ;  tiie  grouping 
and  general  composition  are  forcible 
andclassicaL 

The  cloisters  were  modernised,  and 
not  ineffectively,  by  Gaspar  Lopez,  end 
of  18th  centuiy ;  the  sacri^  is  of  1772. 

The  remaining  churches  at  Astoiga 
are  indifferent  The  agimeoes  and 
early  Qotiiio  of  San  Francisco  may  be 
looked  at  On  the  site  of  the  mined 
castie  stood  once  the  proud  Palado 
of  tiie  Marqueses  de  Astorga.  The 
ruins  exhibit  good  specimens  of  medi- 
eval militaiy  architecture.  Obsenre 
its  cubos  and  buttresses^  and  the  osorio 
motto^ 

Do  aoevo  higar  poaicroo   ■ 
Moveiia  Janus  podieroo  ; 

with  a  rope  and  sliield,  all  very  pictur- 
esque. 

The  streets  are  m-paved;  all  is  back- 
ward and  desolate.  The  Paseo  Huero 
is  pretty. 

BmtUrihn,^6S^  inhab.,  situated  on 
the  confluence  of  the  Hooeda  and  Baeak 

Fillaflranca  da  rMrM>.~This  all 
tourists  who  intend  to  make  an  ex- 
cursion into  the  Yieno  wfll  make  their 
head-quarters  ;  pop.  2600  ;  a  decent 
posado  (La  Hueva). 

IiUgo. — Pop.  21,298;  capital  of  pro- 
▼ince  of  same  name  ;  bishop's  see  ;  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  MiAo.    A  good  po- 


sado in  the  Barrio  de  San  Roque.  The 
Lucus  Augusti  of  the  Romans,  who  tre 
quented  its  sulphur  baths  on  the  Mifio^ 
and  of  which  some  remains  can  be 
seen,  as  well  as  a  dyke.  The  walls  are 
very  interesting,  80  ft.  to  40  ft.  high, 
and  about  20  ft.  thick,  flanked  by 
cubes,  formerly  eighty-five  in  number. 
The  ramparts  are  now  the  paseo,  and 
from  them  the  view  is  pleasant  and  ex- 
tensive. The  streets  are  clean.  The 
Plaza  Mayor,  with  arcades  on  one  side, 
is  the  rendezvous  of  local  types — Mam- 
gotas  and  anieros.  The  Libraiy  del 
Obispado  contains  some  7000  volumes, 
proceeding  firom  suppressed  convents. 
The  only  interesting  edifice  here  is 

Th4  Cathedml— It  dates  1120,  when 
it  was  built  by  Maestro  Raymundo, 
whose  contract  with  the  Chapter  is  dated 
t]iat  same  year.  It  was  finished  1177. 
The  exterior  has  been  modernised,  as 
well  as  the  incongruous  towers  and 
doistors,  of  which  only  two  lateral 
doors  retain  the  former  style.  The 
interior  consists  of  three  naves,  well 
lighted  up,  with  low  arches,  and  a 
galleiy  above.  The  Silleria  of  1624  is 
a  good  sample  of  the  gallego  sculptor, 
Fiandsco  de  Moure.  This  cathedral 
shares  with  San  Isidore  of  I/eon  the 
privilege  of  having  the  consecrated 
host  permanentiy  de  mafUfiesio.  The 
H.  doorway  is  early  and  interesting ; 
within  a  vesica  in  the  tympanum  is  a 
figure  of  Our  Lord,  and  below  is,  as  a 
pendant,  the  Last  Supper.  The  high 
altar  is  modem  and  indiffer^t.  Be- 
hind is  a  chapel  dedicated  to  Our  Lady 
of  the  Large  Eyes  I  Ecclesiologists  may 
visit  the  conventual  churches  of  Los 
Capuchinos  and  Sto.  Domingo;  they 
are  14th  century  buildings,  and  though 
partiy  modernised,  and  the  former  de- 
secrated, still  contain  well-preserved 
details. 

The  mineral  spring  is  about  10  min. 
walk  from  the  town.    Its  temperature 


COBUl^A. 


125 


Is  86*  Cent,  tnd  it  Is  most  efficadoos 
in  nerrons  complaints,  diseases  of  the 
skin,  etc 

Gei^eral  Moore,  in  his  retreot  on 
ConiAa,  halted  here  (Jan.  6,  1809), 
and  gave  hii  wom-ont  troops  some 
days  of  rest.  Soolt,  who  had  been  sent 
in  his  porsoit,  came  np  soon  after,  and 
hesitated  to  accept  the  battle  presented 
bj  the  EnglislL  Ignorant  of  the  state 
and  nnmbers  of  the  enemy,  the  French 
general  adopted  a  defensive  line,  and 
lost  time  in  partial  attacks  and  manoea- 
▼ring.  On  the  9th  the  British  forces 
retired  in  good  order,  and  fell  back  on 
La  CknuAa,  unmolested  by  the  French, 
who  were  for  some  time  unaware  of  the 
retreat  of  an  army  which  they  conld  so 
easUy  have  annihilated,  had  tiiey,  with 
their  forces  and  fresh  troops,  attacked 
it  at  once,  and  boldly. 

B€tamo8.—TTOY\  of  Comfia  ;  7919 
inhab.  Near  the  rivers  Kendo  and 
Handeo. 

2.  From  Skmtiago,  9)  leagues ;  7  hrs. 


Santiago  to  Siqueiro 
Lein  ... 
ComOft    •       ■       « 


League 
.  a 
••* 
.  5 


8.  From  Ferrol  (see  at  end  of  OunrAo, 
Excunion  to  Ferrol). 

Sleamtn, 

4.  From  Bayonne,  steamers  of  Comp. 
lAtemationale  de  Kayigation  ^Yapeur, 
two  a-month;  distance,  629  k0.=884 
Fr.  mar.  m. ;  fares,  1st  cab.,  ISlfr.  60c. ; 
8d  cab.,  lOOfr.  Time  40  hrs.  Offices 
at  ComAa,  Andr6s  Gerrido;  at  Bayonne^ 
see  Vigo, 

6.  From  Yigo,  16  hrs. ;  1st  cab.,  60r. ; 
2d  cab.,40r.;  3d  cab.,  20r.,  by  same 
steamers. 

6.  From  liverpool ;  76  hrs.     Com- 


pania  Hispano-Alemana }  also  the 
*Tago'  and  'Ebro' ;  1st  cL,  9  guineas ; 
2d  d.,  £7  (Cia.  Hispano-Ini^lesa). 

7.  From  Havre  once  a-month,  285fr. 

8.  Marseilles  to  Southampton  and  to 
Hamburg  touching  here;  laigesteamei% 
slow,  Oia.  Hispano-Alemana. 

9.  From  G^on  In  18  hrs.  ;  two  a- 
month,  by  steamers  of  Cia.  Internation- 
ale, and  de  VUnion  ;  1st  oL,  200r. ; 
2d  cl,  140r.;  8d  d.,  lOOr. ;  146  mar. 
m.    Offices,  Domingnez  GiL 

10.  From  Santander,  the  *Gadii' 
(400  tons),  <C4r^'  *Apostel,'  and 
'  Oapricho ;  small  trading  steamers,  for 
passengers  also^  two  a-month,  28  hrs.  ; 
fares,  1st  cL,  820r. ;  2d  cL,  240r.  Bet- 
ter by  the  laige  steamers  of  Cia.  Hii- 
pano-Alemana ;  the  *Catalufia,'  2800 
tons,  the  *  Hamburg'  (2000),  and 
'  Barcelona'  (2000),  once  a-month,  same 
fares.  Offices  at  Sres.  Hgos  ds  Ddriga, 
Huelle. 

ooBinSI'A. 

Inns^ — Fonda  del  Comerdo,  in  Calle 
ReaL  The  best  is,  perhaps,  Casa  ds 
'Inocencia.' 

(V^9.  — Suiio  and  Del,  Correr; 
charges,  16r.  to  20r. 

CkmnUs  ai  C<miiHa.^H,  B,  if.'s,  0. 
C.  Braokenbuiy,  Esq. ,  also  for  Denmark. 
Frcmet^  M.  Ad.  Cabarrus.  Belgium^  A. 
deVita.  iViisfio,  Jos4  Pastor.  Rimia, 
Luis  Martinez  y  Guertero. 

Banken,—!!,  F.  Bairie  and  Co.,  cor- 
respondents to  Messrs.  Hoare,  Henries, 
Farquhar,  etc  ' 

Comfia  ii  the  chief  seaport  in  Galida, 
and  rival  of  Vigo.  It  lies  half-way 
between  Capes  Ortegal  and  Finisterre, 
in  a  situation  most  favourable  to  trade. 
The  bay  is  spadous  and  most  secure^ 
ships  being  sblo  to  enter  it  at  all  times 
and  in  all  weather.  The  port  itself  ii 
defended  by  the  Castillo  de  San  Anton 
and  that  of  San  Diego,  and  the  road* 
stead  by  Castillo  de  Sta.  Cms  (eight 


186 


OOBUtA* 


gmit)  tad  btttfliy  de  U  Qa.  The 
cliniile  it  delicioa%  and  etn  be  ■troogly 
feeommesded  to  iiiTalide.  The  mor- 
teUty  is  1-82;  there  dying  44  aged 
between  76  tiid  100.  liring  is  good 
end  Tery  eheep.  Fniit  end  ^eyciflent 
fiehabomid.  Indeed,  engleneenmeke 
this  their  heed-qnarter%  end  sooar  the 
troot-etveeme  which  flow  into  the  bey ; 
the  beet  being  the  Lemie,  Eo^  Tniie. 
end  AUonee.  The  tnde  is  yeiy  doll, 
not  exceeding  £250, 000  between  exports 
end  imports. 

The  dij  is  dirided  into  two  yeiy 
dilTersnt  portions— the  npper,  aUa^  por- 
tion end  a  lower  one,  bc^fa,  celled  Pee- 
cadsria,  and  which,  once  bat  a  refoge 
of  fishermen,  has  gradoally  outstripped 
the  former  end  older  pert»  end  is  im- 
proTing  and  prosperoos.  The  Oalle 
Beel  and  Calie  Espos  y  Mine  ere 
broed,  handsome,  and  mndi  frequented. 
La  Marina  is  the  eyening  summer 
peseo,  and  a  most  charming  one  it  is. 
Englishmen  will  not  fail  to  yisit  the 
Jaidin  de  Sen  CSarlos,  in  the  centre  of 
which  stands  the  tomb  of  General 
Moore^  with  the  inscription ;  '  Joanes 
Moore.  Exerdtns  Britannid  Dux. 
Prslio  ocdsos  a.d.  1809.'  The  Paseo 
de  Sta.  Margarita  commands  extensive 
▼lews  on  the  Bay  del  Orzan  and  Torre 
de  Hercules,  on  the  site  of  a  PhoBnidan 
pharoe,  which  rises  1  m.  N.W.  of  the 
town,  and  was  repaired  by  order  of 
Tn^{an,  The  preeent  one  has  been  eon- 
sidmbly  improved,  ii  898  ft  high,  and 
can  be  seen  at  a  distance  of  12  m. 
There  im  a  small  theatre  (Teetro  Huevo) ; 
a  large  tobacco  manufactory,  established 
1808,  which  turns  out  some  898,000  Ibe. 
annually,  emplo]rs  2800  women,  and  ii 
worth  a  visit  The  public  ediflcee  are 
meet  indifferent  The  churches  are: 
Santiago,  in  the  upper  town,  of  the  11th 
century ;  obeerve  tiie  S.  door,  the  apee 
and  ]^pit  The  CoUgiata,  Gothic 
(1258),  but  with  a  good  Byzantine  W. 


pofch,  and  a  loffy  tower.  Convent  of 
SUl  Barbara,  a  fine  basso-rdievo  of 
15th  century,  over  a  lateral  door.  Con« 
vent  of  San  Francueo,  where  Philip  II. 
lodged  when  he  came  here  to  embeik 
Cor  England,  1551,  and  now  turned  into 
a  preddio;  and  in  the  Sam  Jorgt^  an 
old  Jesuit  church,  some  pictures  (An- 
mmdation  and  Purgatory)  of  Peter 
Yanderlaken. 

ffidorieal  JVMm.— La  Oorulia,  tw- 
meriy  called  La  Cnha  (corona),  and 
Groyne  by  the  English,  is  said  to  have 
been  founded  by  tiie  Phoenicians,  and 
was  taken  by  the  Unmans,  A.u.a  698. 
Here,  July  28,  1888,  John  of  Gaunt 
landed,  to  daim  the  crown  of  Castile  in 
right  of  his  wife,  the  daughter  of  Pedro 
d  CrueL  Here,  May  1588,  the  Invin- 
cible Armada  was  refitted.  It  wascom- 
poeed  of  186  ships  (59,120  tons),  armed 
with  8165  guns,  and  manned  by  8252 
sailore,  2000  volunteer^  2088  galley- 
slaves,  20,000  veteran  troops,  and  ac- 
companied, bedde%  by  290  monks, 
priests,  and  familiars,  sent  to  convert 
the  English  people,  and  also  attend 
to  the  spiritud  want  of  the  army ;  but 
the  Drakes,  Frobiahers,  and  Hawldnses 
made  great  havoc  among  the  Spaniards, 
and  completed  the  work  of  destruction 
which  the  dements  had  begun.  Ho 
doubt  can  be  entertained  but  that  this 
expedition  was,  and  may  be  again,  a* 
great  lesson  to  England,  for  had  not 
the  Spaniardslosttime  in  wdting  for  the 
Duke  of  Parma's  flotilla,  the  invading 
army  would  have  landed  undisturbed 
on  the  7th  August,  and,  under  the 
moet  favourable  circumstances  of  sea 
and  weather,  would  have  mardied  on 
to  London,  and  easily  have  destroyed 
the  capitd  of  the  hated  *  Inglesa;'  for 
the  so^ften-repeated  *Bellona-like'  ap- 
pearance of  the  Queen,  her  address  to 
the  troopi^  etc,  was  not  till  tUven  days 
afterwards,  and  on  the  5th  no  army,  not 
even  the  body-guard  of  the  Queen,  had 


OORURA. 


1S7 


been  MMmbled;  tad  Leioeiter,  with 
only  4000  men  to  oppose  to  80,000,  wm 
but  Just  commendng  his  entrenched 
osmp  St  nUmrj.  Philip  II.,  on  lesrn- 
ing  the  Iste  of  thst  expedition,  which 
hsd  been  ihuned  with  so  mnch  csre 
■end  st  so  great  sn  expense^  betrsyed 
ss  little  ooncem  ss  he  did  sgsin  when 
the  Tietory  of  Lepsnto  was  announced 
to  him  at  the  Escorial.  Both  erents 
were  bat  the  wiU  of  Ood,  end  on  both 
occasions  of  joy  and  sorrow  his  great 
Christian  sool  checked  his  pride,  and 
made  them  weigh  equally  before  God. 

La  Corofta  fdl  a  prey  to  Drake  snd 
Korris,  April  20,  1689 ;  and  here  again 
was  foQ^^t  the  battle  of  La  OorUBa, 
Jan.  10, 1809,  between  Sir  John  Moore^ 
at  the  head  of  14,800  men,  and  Soolt, 
who  commanded  20,000.  The  British 
infantry  occupied  the  inferior  range 
of  the  Elyira  hiUs.  The  right,  formed 
by  Baird's  dirision,  approached  the 
enemy,  while  the  centre  and  left  were  of 
necessity  withheld  in  such  a  manner 
that  the  French  battery  on  the  rocks 
rsked  the  whole  of  the  linei  Qeneral 
Hope's  diTision,  crossing  the  main 
road,  prolonged  the  line  of  the  right's 
wing.  The  resenre  was  drawn  up  near 
Airis,  in  the  rear  of  the  centre.  General 
Frsser's  diTision  remainedon  theheights 
immediately  before  the  gstes  of  the  dty. 
The  action  was  hard.  General  Baird 
defeated  Foy  at  ElTira,  and  F^tget  re- 
pulsed La  Houssaye ;  and  had  General 
Fruer's  division  been  broQght  into 
action  towards  nighty  and  when  the 
French  were  already  falling  back  in 
confbsion,  they  would  hsTe  been  most 
signally  defeated ;  but  Sir  John  Moore 
was  wounded,  and  so  was  General  Baird; 
and  Sir  Johji  Hope,  who  now  com- 
manded the  forcee,  pursued  the  original 
plan  of  embarking  during  the  night, 
which  operation  took  place  in  the  most 
admiimble  order,  so  that  when  the 
F^eneh  approached  the  town,  which  the 


inhabitants  faithfully  maintained  for 
some  hour%  the  Knglish,  to  their  sor- 
prise,  were  seen  ssiUng  lustily  on  the 
main.  The  English  lost  sbont  800 
men,  and  the  French  some  8000.  lUs 
battle  and  retreat  have  been  the  caase 
of  much  and  often  angiy  contioreisy. 
Setting  aside  the  opinions  of  the  hi^est 
English  military  authorities,  all  faTour- 
able  to  Moore,  we  shall  only  quote 
what  his  opponent^  Marshal  Soult,  has 
said  of  him,  'See  dispositions  furent 
toigouis  les  plus  oonTenaUes  aux  dr- 
Constances,  et  en  profitant  habilement 
des  sTMitsges  que  les  localit4s  pouTaient 
lui  foumir  pour  seconder  sa  Talenr,  il 
m'opposa  partout  la  rMstance  la  plus 
4neigique  et  la  mieux  calculi;  o'est 
ainsi  qu'U  trouva  une  mort  ^^orieuse 
dcTsnt  La  Corogne  an  milieu  d'un  com- 
bat qui  doit  honorer  son  sourenir.' 

Wbilst  being  carried  to  his  lodgings, 
the  gallant  wounded  soldier  used  to  ask 
at  intenrals  if  the  French  were  beaten, 
and  being  told  they  were,  he  exprened 
a  great  satisfaction. 

'His  countenance  continued  firm,  and 
his  thoughts  dear ;  once  only,  when  he 
spoke  of  his  mother,  he  becsme  sgi- 
tated.'  His  last  words  were,  'I  hope 
the  people  of  England  wiU  be  sstisfied, 
I  hope  my  country  will  to-d^r  do  me 
justice.'  'The  battle  iras scarcely  ended 
when  his  corpse^  wrapped  in  a  militaiy 
doak,  was  internd  by  the  officers  of  his 
staff  in  the  dtadd  of  Corufia.'— Napier's 
ffidaryqftiUBmintularJP'ar,  toL  L 

£xeurtian  to  El  FtrroL—A.  By  land, 
9i  lesgues.  A  charming  ride,  amid 
orange  and  lemon  groyes,  through 
Betansos  and  Puentedeuma,  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Euma,  with  a  fine  bridge. 
Gape  Prior  is  seen  in  the  distance  on  the 
left,  standing  N.  W.  of  Ferrol  and  next 
Cape  Priorino,  which  form  the  entrance 
to  the  port'  Follow  up  the  beach  to  the 
dty. 


128 


BSOORIAL. 


B.  By  sea.  A  steamer  leayes  twice 
a-day ;  the  passage  is  1|  hr. 

JVmo/.— Pop.  18,670  inhab.  (PtoT. 
of  Corufia).  Oodiz,  Cartagena,  and 
Ferrol,  are  the  three  great  naval  de- 
partments into  which  Spain  is  diyided, 
which  are  themselyes  snbdiyided  into 
eleven  tereioi,  then  prorinciasy  and 
lastly,  distritos  maritimos.  The  present 
departamento  comprises  all  the  ports 
and  arsenals  of  norUiem  Spain. 

Inn:  Posada  de  San  Felipe.  £1 
Ferrol,  the  name  of  which  is  derived 
from  el  farol,  the  lighthouse,  was 
a  mere  fishing  village  before  1730, 
when  its  excdlent  port  and  sitnation 
drew  the  attention  of  Qovemment 
Very  extensive  dockyards  (darsenas) 
were  built,  which  exceed  forty  acres  in 
extent  The  town  itself  is  divided  into 
three  parts — the  old,  the  new,  and  the 
eateiro.  It  is  strongly  fortified,  and 
considered  impregnable ;  notwitlistond- 
ing  which,  it  ought  and  would  have 
been  taken  in  August  1800,  by  Ad- 
miral Warren  and  General  Pulteney, 
had  they  not  lost  time  and  good 
weather  in  obtaining  possession  of 
minor  and  unimportant  points^  such  as 
Grafia  and  Fort  San  Felipe.  It  was 
taken  by  Soult  in  1809,  after  six  days' 
blockade ;  and  in  1823  Captain  Hoth- 
am  took  possession  of  it  with  a  mere 
handful  of  men.  The  town  is  slowly 
imjffoving;  but  would  do  so  much  more 
rapidly  if  the  Government  made  it  a 
traiding  port,  and  not  exclusively  mili- 
taiy. 


The  dockyards  are  also  gradually 
recovering  from  their  former  desolation 
and  absence  of  nuUnitU,  and  the  most 
recent  improvements  introduced  in 
ship-building  by  England  and  France 
are  being  adopted  with  intelligence  and 
activity. 

Admittance  to  visit  the  darsenas, 
astillerosy  etc,  is  to  be  easily  obtained 
on  application  to  the  authorities.  They 
areentered  at  Puerta  del  Parque,  leaving 
to  the  right  the  SaUs  de  las  Armas. 
The  dockyard  is  divided  into  a  smaller 
outward  and  a  larger  inward  portion. 
Behind  are  the  dwellings  of  the  opera- 
tives, and  in  the  H.  angle  are  the  found- 
ries^ rope-walks,  and  magadnea.  Visit 
the  grades  de  construcdon  or  ship-slips^ 
the  esteiro,  the  timber  depdts  of  Carran- 
za,  Carragon,  etc 

There  is  a  pretty  Alameda  and  Fuente 
del  Dique  (water  here  is  delicious),  a 
well-proportioned  church  of  Son  Julian, 
and  some  well-conducted  naval  estab- 
lishments^ such  as  the  Hospital,  Bar- 
racks, de  Guardas  Marinas,  etc. 

Book$  of  JU/trenee,—!.  '  Historia  y 
descripdon  de  la  0.  de  la  Corufia,'  by 
Yedia  and  Goossens ;  Corufia,  Puga, 
1846.  Very  well  written,  and  abound- 
ing in  curious  and  useful  information. 

2.  '  Investigaciones  sobre  la  Funda- 
don,  etc,  de  la  Tone  llamada  de  Her- 
cules,' etc,  by  Comide;  Madrid,  Cano, 
1792,  with  six  prints. 

FerroL — '  Historia  y  Descripdon  de 
la  y.  y  Departamento  dd  Ferrol,'  by 
Arost^uL    To  be  soon  published. 


E8C0RIAL. 


Prov.  of  Madrid,  diocese  of  Toledo, 
pop.  1726,  including  both  villages. 

Boute  and  Oonr. — It  will  be  advis- 
able to  visit  the  Escorial  whilst  at 
Madrid.  There  are  three  trains  a-day 
in  winter,  and  four  during  the  summer, 
besides  extra  ones  on  holidays ;  distance^ 


61  kiL;   trains,  Ist  cL,  22r.  50c  ;  2d 
cL,  llr.    Time,  14  hr. 

Omnibuses  are  found  in  attendance 
at  the  station,  which  convey  travellers 
to  the  village  of  Escorial  in  20  min.  for 
2r.  a  head,  and  2r.  lai^  trunks,  Ir. 
smaller,  and  {t,  for  hat-boxe%  etc 


ESOORIAL — MONASTERY. 


129 


Inni.— The  Tillage  is  moet  backward 
in  ererything.  The  only  tolerable  inns 
are,  La  MirandA  and  La  Y izcaina ;  the 
charges  high ;  the  people  Ooths,  and 
extortionate.  A  cicerone  is  here  a 
necessary  otiL  One  named  Comelio, 
aiioB  £1  Sordo  {the  Detrf),  has  been  in 
.the  habit  of  showing  the  lions  of  the 
Esoorial  with  singolar  accuracy,  ikongh 
aUo  hand;  fee,  lOr.  to  16r.  or  20r.  for 
the  whole  mn  of  the  sights.  These  are 
shown  according  to  certain  routine,  and 
al  different  hours.  Begin  as  early  as 
possible ;  a  whole  day  will  only  afford  a 
hurried  Tisit 

The  hours  for  yisiting  the  different 
portions  of  the  Escorial  are — Chwrek 
amd  iVNi<Aeoi»— Open  from  10  A.M.  to 
12  P.M.,  and  from  2  p.k.  to  4  p.m.  ; 
Pslaoe  ^own  about  1  P.M.  The  usual 
order  is,  Church  and  Pantheon,  Palace 
andOasita* 

General  Desoription. — There  are 
two  small  Tillages  close  to  each  other 
which  bear  the  name  of  El  Escorial, 
deriTed  from  the  scoric  of  iron,  yestiges 
from  former  iron-mines.  They  are  dis- 
tinguished by  Esoorial  de  Abigo  and 
that  of  Arriba,  which  Utter  comprises 
sereral  miserable  granite-built  houses 
and  half-ruined  edifices,  used  in  other 
times  as  caTalry- barracks,  etc  The 
Esoorial  is  a  «i^  reoZ,  or  royal  residence, 
and  is  called  from  that,  and  from  the 
Palace  and  Monastery,  'San  Lorenzo 
el  ReaL'  There  is  still  a  season  or 
temporada  during  the  summer  months, 
and  were  there  better  hotels  and  some 
comforts,  its  pifiares  and  chestnut  woods 
would  be  a  greetresouroe  to  the  parched- 
up  Madrile&os  ;  and  if  the  archires  of 
the  kingdom  could  be  remored  hither 
from  out-of-the-way  Simancas,  many 
adTantages  would  be  gained  by  travel- 
lers,  nadonales,  theiilliigerBthemselYes, 
and  not  a  little  for  the  edifices,  which 
are  sadly  ne^ected. 
The  Bighta    sre,    the    MonasUry, 

K 


comprising    the    Church,    Pantheon, 
Library,  and  the  Palace ;  the  Camia  del. 
Principe ;  the  more  indifferent  i^iUci  de 
Felipe  //.,  La  Fresneda,  etc 

Konastery. — This  stupendous  edi- 
fice— a  mountain  of  granite  shaped  into 
a  palace^  a  church,  and  a  conyent,  the 
leriathan  of  architecture — is  reckoned 
by  Spaniards  as  the  eighth  maryel  of 
the  world.  It  nerertheless  belongs  to 
that  class  of  the  oppressiye  sublime  and 
gigantic,  which,  whether  in  nature  or . 
art,  awes  or  strikes  at  firsts  and  then 
yery  soon  only  causes  ennuL  To  under- 
stand the  Escorial  it  is  necessary  to  haye 
studied  deeply  and  most  impartially  the 
character  and  genius  of  its  founder ;  fw 
this  is  not  a  monument  which  is  the 
expression  of  an  age  or  a  people^  but 
bears  the  stamp  of  a  man  of  a  special 
train  of  thought  and  feeling.  Philip 
IL  must  be  judged  not  in  the  light  ot 
the  19th,  but  in  that  of  the  16th  cen- 
tury. There  is  no  doubt  that  the  Esco- 
rial existed  already,  ideally,  in  the 
mind  of  his  grandmother,  Crazy  Jane, 
whoae  morbid  deyotion  yeiged  on  in- 
sanity, and  in  Charles  Y.'s  early  and 
constant  desire  to  retire  into  seclusion, 
and  his  death  in  a  conyent.  Spain  must 
be  in  a  manner  explained  by  the  East, 
and  neyer  by  the  North,  as  it  too  often 
is.  And  thus,  after  the  fashion  of  the 
Eastern  sultan^  the  Spanish  kings  haye 
alwajTS  sou^t  the  seclusion  of  their 
palaces,  which  their  piety  and  the  bur- 
den of  soyereignty  turned  into  conyents. 
The  Monastery  of  the  Escorial  is  the 
key  to  Philip's  character,  never,  as  yet, 
perfectly  understood  by  historians.  Suf- 
fice it,  for  the  present,  to  observe  that 
as  he  was  the  proudest  among  kingi^ 
and  the  most  devout  amongst  monks^  it 
was  not  all  his  fault  if  he  built  oonvents 
that  look  like  palaces,  and  palaces  that 
were  also  convents.  The  Escorial  was 
built  in  compliance  with  the  deeirei 


130 


BSOOBIAL — M0NA8TKRT. 


often  ezpretied  by  Chiriet  V.  to  Philip^ 
to  liATe  a  bnrul-houM  for  him  and  liis 
deaoendanti,  and  aa  a  aolemn  act  of 
gratitude  to  hia  patron  taint*  St  Law- 
rence^ to  whoae  protection  he  aacribed 
the  Tictory  of  San  Qnintin,  which  hap- 
pened on  that  aaint's  veiy.  day  (Ang. 
10,  1567).  It  waa  not  a  panic-inq»ired 
TOW,  aa  haa  ao  often  been  repeated, 
made  during  the  action,  nor  waa  there 
any  chnrc)i  of  St  Laurent  deatroyed 
during  the  action.  The  battle  waa  won 
by  Phibl)ert  of  Sayoy,  and  Philip  II. 
airired  only  four  days  after  the  victory. 
The  fonndo^s  'Oarta  de  Dotadon,'  in 
Cabrera's  'Vida  de  Felipe  IL,'  written 
and  signed  by  Philip,  contains  all  hia 
reaaons  for  founding  the  Escorial.  It 
runathus : — 

'In  acknowledgement  of  the  many 
and  great  blessingB  which  it  has  pleased 
Qod  to  heap  on  us  and  continue  to  us 
daily,  and,  inasmuch  as  He  has  been 
plessed  to  direct  and  guide  our  deeds 
and  acts  to  his  Holy  serrice,  and  in 
maintenance  and  defence  of  Hia  holy 
&ith  and  religion,  and  of  justice  and 
peace  within  our  realms;  considering 
likewise,  what  the  emperor  and  king, 
my  lord  and  father,  in  a  codicil  which 
he  lately  made,  committed  to  our  care, 
and  charged  ua  with,   respecting  his 
tomb,  the  spot  and  place  where  his 
body  and  that  of  the   empress   and 
queen,  my  lady  and  mother,  should  be 
placed ;   it  bomg  just  and  meet  that 
their  bodies  shodd  be  moat  duly  hon- 
oured with  a  befitting  burial-ground, 
and  that  for  their  souls  be  said  continu- 
ally, masses,  prayers,  anniyersaries,  and 
other  holy  records,   and    because  we 
hare^  besides,  determined  that  when- 
erer  it  may  please  God  to  take  us  away 
to  Him,  our  body  should  rest  in  the 
aame  place  and  spot  near  theirs   .    .    . 
for  all  these  reasons  we  found  and  erect 
the  Monastery  of  St  Lorenzo  el  Real, 
near  the  town  of  £1  Escorial,  in  the 


diocese  and  archbiahopric  of  Toledo^ 
the  which  we  dedicate  in  the  name  ik 
the  Blessed  St  Lawrence,  on  aoooont 
of  the  special  derotion  which,  aa  we 
have  said,  we  pray  to  thia  i^oiioua 
saint,  and  in  memory  of  the  laTOur  and 
Tictories  which  on  his  day  we  reoeiTed 
from  Qod.     HoreoTer,  we  found  it  for 
the  order  of  St  Jerome,  on  accountof  our 
spedalaffectionandrespectforthiB  order, 
and  that  which  was  also  bestowed  upon 
it  by  the  emperor  and  king,  my  lather.' 
For  two  years  he  waa  looking  for 
some  spot,  in  the  Tidnity  of  Madrid, 
which  mi^t  be  farourable  to  his  pur- 
pose, and  at  last  fixed  on  the  wfld, 
roclqTf  and  secluded  pine-dad  alopea  of 
the  Guadarrama — the  reiy  frame  for 
such  a  picture.    Juan  Bautista  de  To- 
ledo was  called  from  Naples,  and  en- 
trusted with  the  design.      The   first 
stone  was  laid  on  April  23,  1565,  and 
on  August  20  the  church  was  begun. 
The  rnl  designer  was  Philip  himsdf, 
who  was  a  man  of  great  and  pure  taste, 
an  enlightened  and  generous  patron  of 
artiste.     He  used  to  come  frequently 
from  Madrid  to  watch  the  progress  of 
hia  creation  from  the  summit  of  a  hiU 
cloee  by,  and  suggested  changes,  and 
advised  different  details.    The  erection 
of  this,  the  laigest  and  first  great  edi- 
fice in  Spain  into  which  the  Grssco- 
Roman  dement  was  cast,  constituted 
an  important  epoch  in  the  histoiyof 
Spani^  art     Its  characteristics  are  : 
vast  proportions,  admirable  harmony 
and  unity  of  design,  simplidty,  mas- 
dveness,  grandeur.     Whatever  defects 
or  qualities  are  noticeable  must  be  as- 
cribed to  Philip,  who  influenced  the 
architect's  decision  ;  but  it  must  never 
be  forgotten  what  its  object  was,  the 
means  employed  to  attain  it,  and  the 
general  effect  attending  the  execution. 
In  ^567  Toledo  died,  and  his  first  ayu- 
dante,  Juan   do    Herrera,    succeeded 
him.     This  other  great   man   made 


BSOORIAL — OUUKOU. 


131 


•ereral  bappj  alteratioiu,  but,  on, the 
whole,  followed  the  original  designs. 
He  was  ably  aided  hj  Fray  Antonio  de 
Villacastin,  and  the  hoilding  rapidly 
adTanoing,  was  completed  18th  Sept 
1684,  twenty-one  yean  after  it  had 
been  begun,  and  at  the  then  enormous 
cost  of  about  £660,000. 

The  edifice  itself— that  is,  without  the 
offices,  etc. — is  a  rectangular  parallelo- 
gram, of  744  ft  (span)  long,  K.  to  S., 
and  680  ft  E.  to  W.  The  square 
covers  8002  ft,  and  a  surface  ground 
of  600,000  ft  It  is  of  the  Doric  order, 
and  made  entirely  of  Berroquefia  stone 
and  of  granite,  ofwhich  there  are  quar- 
ries  in  the  vicinity.  The  distribution 
is  thus  : — ^The  quadrangles  were  divided 
into  three  parts  from  E.  to  W. ;  that 
in  the  middle  formed  the  church,  por- 
tioo,  and  principal  entrance ;  that 
towards  the  8.  was  made  into  five 
cloisters ;  the  part  to  the  H.  was  di- 
vided into  two  portions,  one  allotted  to 
the  habitation  of  ladies  and  gentlemen 
of  the  household,  and  the  other  to  the 
convent  and  offices.  On  the  £.  side 
Toledo  drew  forth  and  out  from  the 
line  another  square  for  the  palace, 
which  also  comprised  the  high  chapel 
of  the  church,  so  that  tribunes  should 
be  made  into  it  from  the  royal  apart- 
ments. Thus  ^e  colossal  edifice  was 
divided  ;  from  its  angles  and  centre 
spring  eight  towers,  about  200  ft  high, 
and  it  is  crowned  by  the  cupola  or 
dmborio  of  the  church. 

The  facades  are  migestic,  but  some- 
what, as  a  French  autiior  says,  '  of  an 
awful  simplicity.'  The  western  one  is 
the  finest,  60  ft  high  and  740  ft  long. 
It  has  two  towers  at  the  angles,  and 
three  noble  entrances.  The  eastern 
facade  has  nothing  to  characterise  it 
except  the  back  of  the  high  church  and 
its  front  The  8.  fafade  is  the  most 
denuded,  and  looks  not  a  little  like  a 
huge  poor-house  or  barracks ;  and  bar- 


racks they  were,  indeed,  for  800  Jeroni- 
mites,  a  portion  of  the  vast  army  of 
monki^  the  sturdy  soldiers  of  the  faith, 
who  fought  and  won  the  battle  of  the 
mind  against  barbarism,  and  handed 
down  the  knowledge  and  the  practice 
of  Christianity.  The  K.  side  has  three 
spacious  entrances,  leading  to  the  Cole- 
gio  and  Palace.  Everything  in  the 
edifice  is  on  a  colossal  scale.  Suffice  it 
to  state  that  there  are  16  coarts,  40 
altars,  1111  windows  outside^  1662 
inside ;  1200  doors,  16  doisters,  86 
staircases,  8000  ft  of  f^^sco-painting, 
89  fountains,  and  about  82  leagues  of 
surface  to  walk  upon.  It  is  an  error  to 
suppose  that  the  strong-minded  archi- 
tects ever  intended  to  represent  in  its 
general  shape  a  reversed  gridiron,  the 
instrument  of  St  Lorenzo's  martyrdom 
— it  is  purely  imaginative.  The  roofs 
are  covered  with  slates  and  lead. 

Primeipal  Eniranee  is  the  W.  one. 
Over  the  portico  are  the  libraries. 
Enter  now  tiie 

PcUio  de  IcB  Heyes, — Is  280  ft  long 
by  186  ft  wide — so  called  from  six 
colossal  statues  representing  the  six 
kings  of  the  house  of  David  ;  indiffer- 
ently  executed  by  Monegro  in  granite, 
with  portions  in  white  marble  and 
crowns  and  insignia  in  gilt  bronxe. 
That  of  the  tutelar  saint  placed  over 
the  portal,  is  also  by  .the  same. 

The  Ohnroh  (Tetnplo)  was  begun 
in  1668  and  finished  in  1686.  It  is 
oonsidered  the  masterpiece  of  Herrera, 
and  the  triumph  of  the  Gneco-Roman 
applied  to  Christian  temples.  '  It  is 
320  ft  long,  280  ft  wide,  and  820 
ft  high  to  the  top  of  the  cupola.  It  is 
all  granite  and  of  the  Doric  style  ;  the 
greatest  simplicity  prevails,  and  ma- 
jesty, height,  and  vast  proportions  are 
its  characteristics.  The  form  is  a 
square  basilica,  assuming  the  shape  of  a 
Greek  cross.     The  roof  rests  on  fooi 


132 


SSOORIAL — CHURCH. 


yery  xnaanye  square  piera»  which  cone-, 
•pond  to  eight  others  placed  in  the  walls. 
Qrerall  these  run  twenty-four  srehes, 
forming  six  nayes,  so  comhined  that 
three  nayes  are  seen  firom  eyeiy  part  of 
the  temple.  The  two  principal  nayes 
form  the  Greek  cross,  and  are  58  ft 
wide  and  118  ft  high. 

Ths  Chapeli  cand  AUars.—The  first 
on  the  left»  called  Df  lot  DodartB^  has 
fiye  altars  with  pictures  of  saints  by 
Alcmso  Sanches  Coello  and  two  by  Lnis 
de  CarbigaL  The  tomb  and  statue  of  the 
Infanta  Dofta  Carlota  are  indifferent 
In  that  of  El  PalrodiUo  are  also  seyend 
pictures  of  female  saints  by  the  same 
painters.  See,  besides,  seyend  others 
by  Pelegrino  Tibaldi,  and  by  Luca 
Cangiagi,  and  Luis  de  Carbajal,  who 
followed  £1  Mudo's  manner.  Ko* 
tics  especially  all  those  by  this  latter 
(Juan  Femandes  Kayarette),  who  is  to 
be  sought  for  here ;  admire  his  St. 
Philip  and  Santiago,  St  Barnabas  and 
St  Mathias  on  the  last  pier,  Santiago 
and  St  Andrew  (signed  and  dated 
1577),  SS.  Simon  and  Judas,  SS.  Bar- 
tholomew and  Thomas,  etc,  all  yery 
fine,  richly-coloured  Titian -like,  and 
powerfully  rendered.  The  others  are 
by  Zuccharo,  Qomex,  and  Sanchez 
Coello,  who  painted  the  following  : — 
SS.  Paula  and  M6nica,  SS.  Catherine 
and  In^  SS.  Ambrosio  and  Qregorio, 
SS.  Basilic  and  Atanasio,  Geronimo 
an  1  Augustin,  the  former  as  a  cardinal 
and  the  latter  as  a  bishop^  looking  at- 
tentiyely  at  a  child  who  is  filling  s  hole 
in  the  sands  with  water  issuing  from  a 
shell  (signed  and  dated  1580) ;  Sa 
Paul  and  Anthony  in  the  Wilderness 
fed  by  a  crow  (signed  and  dated  1582) ; 
SS.  Lorenzo  and  Esteban,  and  dressed 
as  deacons  (signed  and  dated  1580) ; 
St  Vincent  and  St  (korge,  etc 

The  pulpitt  were  certainly  not  forgot- 
ten by  Herrera/  and  some  powerful 
motiye  must  iiaye  preyented  his  erect- 


ing any.  A  portable  one  was  used  in 
his  time.  The  present  pulpits,  which 
cost  £15,000,  were  the  gilt  of  Ferdinand 
YII.  ;  they  are  made  of  alabaster 
and  the  richest  marbles,  ornamented 
with  mezzo-relieyo  medallions,  pilla- 
rets,  etc,  in  gilt  bronze.  They  are 
sadly  out  of  keeping  with  the  other 
sober,  quiet,  simple  portions  of  the 
church,  and  are  of  no  artistic  yalue  in 
themselyes,  though  exhibiting  glorious 
specimens  of  the  Spanish  marbles. 

The  Organa, — ^There  are  two ;  one  in 
the  Iglesia  Vieja,  and  the  other  seldom 
used,  and  the  work  of  the  Fleming 
Kaese  Gil,  and  the  ofhers  by  Masigeles 
and  his  sons ;  that  in  the  S.  is  yeiy 
fine,  and  is  considered  one  of  the  best 
in  Spain. 

The  vaulted  roo/^  or  hoveda,  was  ori- 
ginally stuccoed  white  and  dotted  with 
blue  stars.  In  the  reign  of  Charles  II. 
its  compartments  were  painted  al/reeeo 
by  Giordano,  happily  sumamed  Liicch 
Fa  Presto,  who  is  said  to  haye  finished 
all  his  work  in  the  Escorial  in  seyea 
months.  There  are  eight  compositions, 
representing  subjects  from  Holy  Writ 
and  allegorical  The  composition  is 
good,  the  execution  hurried,  yet  faith- 
ful, and  the  colouring  yeiy  fine,  though 
somewhat  tarnished  by  dunp. 

The  High  Chapel  is  70  ft  wide  by  50 
ft  long,  and  comprises  the  high  altar 
and  oratorios.  In  the  centre  rises  a 
flight  of  red-stained  steps,  steeper  than 
was  intended,  but  to  afford  space  for  a 
cupola  under  it  for  the  pantheon,  and 
that  in  this  manner  the  wish  of  Philip 
might  be  accomplished,  thatmassshould 
be  daily  said  over  the  bodies  of  the 
kings.  The  altar  is  made  of  precious 
marbles  and  inlaid  jasper,  covered  with 
a  jasper  stone  of  one  whole  piece.  It 
stands  isolated.  At  the  sides  are  doors 
with  jasper  jambs,  etc.,  and  beautifully 
inlaid  mahogany,  which  lead  to  the 
aagrario.     On  the  back  of  the  altar  is 


SSOORIAL — 0HX7B0H. 


133 


the  consecration  stone  of  the  chnrdi, 
which  act  was  perfonned  by  Clement 
YIIL'snonda  ThertfiaMotsglorioas, 
tnd  the  piotnies  desenre  close  inspec- 
tion, however  difficult  it  be  on  account 
of  Uie  bad  light  and  dark  wood  and 
jaspers.  It  ii  98  ft.  hi^^  and  94  ft 
wide^  of  the  four  order%  and  composed 
of  red  granite,  precious  jaspers,  and  gilt 
bronze.  It  ii  the  masterpiece  of  the 
Milanese  Giacomo  Treszo,  who  here  em- 
ployed to  perfection  and  great  effect  all 
the  orders  of  classic  architecture  except 
the  Tuscan.  The  tabemaoulo  was  de- 
•signed  by  Herrera  and  executed  by 
TnoK^  who  finished  it  in  seren  years. 
The  pictures,  of  no  great  merit,  are  by 
Pellegrino  Tibaldi  (suljects,  Nativity, 
Adon^n,  Martyrdom  of  St  Lorenzo), 
andtherestbyZucchait).  The 'Scourg- 
ing' is  the  best  work  of  Zuocharo's  at 
the  Esoorial,  and  not  as  dry,  cold,  and 
raw  as  his  paintings  always  are.  The 
statues  are  by  Leon  Leoui  and  hii  son 
Pompdo,  1688.  The  altar  cost  about 
£40,000. 

Saifrario. — ^There  are  some  indifferent 
frescoes  by  Tibaldi,  and  some  rery  rich 
Spanish  marbles  and  jaspers.  The  sag- 
lario  constitntes  the  coulisses  of  the 
religious  spectacle  on  great  festivals 
offored  to  devout  and  sensual  piety;  and 
here  from  behind  these  screens,  waU% 
and  curtains,  the  sacristanes,  those  able 
scene-shifters,  prepare  the  lights,  incen- 
soriei^  place  and  remove  the  vases,  and 
alternately  draw,  diminish,  or  change 
the  curtains  and  many-coloured  veils, 
placed  before  the  window  and  calculated 
to  mitigate  or  graduate  the  li^t,  ao- 
oocding  to  the  nature  of  the  festival 

The  nlieano  is  one  of  the  richest  in 
Spain :  much  of  the  valuable  matter, 
gold  vases,  ornaments,  precious  stones, 
etc,  were  carried  away  by  Qeneral 
Houasaye  and  his  troops ;  they  took  the 
flesh  and  left  the  bones.  However,  these 
oooftitate  the  real  valus^  and  are  gohi 


and  caviare  to  the  vulgar.  Amongst 
other  buHi^  ds  guerre  was  a  statue  called 
La  Matrona  or  La  Mesina,  given  by  the 
inhabitants  of  Messina  to  Philip  IIL, 
weighing  220  lbs.  silver,  which  held  in 
her  right  hand  a  golden  custodia  weigh- 
ing 26  lbs.,  besides  a  heavy  crown  with 
rubies  and  other  precious  stones,  and, 
moreover,  forty-seven  of  the  richest 
vases.  There  are  now  about  7421  relics, 
amongst  which  are  ten  whole  bodies, 
144  heads,  800  whole  arms  and  l^gs,  etc 
See  the  fine  Ana  del  Mbnummio,  which 
formerly  possessed  twenty-six  invalu- 
able Greek  cameos,  one  of  the  real  bars 
of  San  Lorenzo's  gridiron,  the  femur  of 
this  saint  with  portions  of  his  flesh 
roasted  and  broiled  {todado  y  OBodo), 
and  one  of  his  feet  with  a  bit  of  coal 
between  the  toes,  etc 

Orat&rum  and  EiUimro»  JRealei, — On 
each  side  of  the  altar  are  placed  the  ora- 
torios, low  chambers  or  tribunes  of  duk 
marble  fw  the  use  of  royal  persons  when 
they  come  to  hear  mass.  That  on  the 
left  was  used  by  Philip  II.,  and  in  a 
small  and  narrow  room  dose  to  it  he 
expired.  Above,  and  about  12  ft  hi^ 
are  placed  the  bronze  gilt  and  painted 
effigies  of  the  kings,  all  kneeling.  On 
the  right  of  the  altar  are  five  statuea. 
The  first  is  that  of  Charles  y.,  kneeling 
on  a  cushion,  and  dose  to  him  are,  to 
the  right,  the  Empress  Isabella,  mother 
of  PhiUp  IL;  behind,  his  daughter  the 
Empress  Maria,  and  his  sisters  Eleonora 
and  Maria.  On  the  leftof  the  altar  are 
the  statues  of  Philip  IL ;  on  his  right  is 
his  fourth  wife^  Anna,  mother  of  Philip 
IIL;  behind,  his  third  wife,  Isabella ; 
on  the  right  of  latter  his  first  wife,  Dolka 
Maria  of  Portugal,  mother  of  Don 
Carlos,  and  behind  her  ia  this  prince^ 
immortalised  by  Schiller,  but  who  was, 
historically  speaking,  a  poor  imbecile 
much  taken  care  of  by  his  father.  These 
statues  are  portraits,  and  very  remark- 
able for  the  execution,  likeneasesi  And 


134 


ESOORIAL — OHUBOH. 


detaflt  of  embroideiy  ;  obaenre  alio  the 
plumage  of  the  ee^es,  etc  They  were 
all  the  work  of  Pompeio  Leoni,  who  was 
paid  fur  them  about  £15,000.  The  Latin 
insoriptioi)!  are  bj  Arias  Montana 

AnU  SacritHa, — Indifferent  ceilings 
finely  painted  by  Qranello  and  Fabrido. 
The  pictures  are  mostly  copies  from  the 
Italian  school  Na  68.  A  Descent  from 
the  Cross,  by  Van  der  Weide,  and  a  San 
Jnan  de  Dios,  a  sketch  or  duplicate  by 
Qiordano,  an  Adoration  by  the  same, 
and  a  St  Qeronimo  eucribed  to  Ribera. 
Fine  fresco  arabesque  ceilings  by  Qran- 
ello and  Fabrido,  imitating  predous 
stones,  etc  Twenty-six  of  the  finest 
paintings  formerly  here  were  removed 
to  the  Picture  Gallery  of  Madrid  in 
1827. 

N,B, — ^Tha  numbers  of  the  pictures 
were  put  up  in  1864,  and  a  catalogue  of 
all  those  actually  in  the  Escorial  formed 
by  Sr.  PolenS^  a  restaurador  of  the  Pic- 
ture Gallery  of  Madrid.  No.  62.  Gloria, 
Purgatorio  i  Infiemo,  a$eribed  to  El 
Greco,  known  also  as  the  Dream  of 
Philip  II.  08.  St  Francis  of  Assise, 
by  the  same  64.  St  Peter  of  Alcan- 
tara, by  Zurbaran.  65.  St  Francis  of 
Asdse  in  the  desert ;  and  66.  St  Paul, 
both  by  the  latter.  68.  Jacob  Watch- 
ing Laban's  Flocks,  by  Ribera.  71.  A 
copy  of  Raphael's  Transfiguration.  72. 
Christ  Wailing  the  Apostles'  Feet,  by 
Tintoretto,  who  painted  it  for  the 
Church  of  Sta»  Maroela  at  Venice,  and 
belonged  to  Charles  I.  of  England,  at 
whose  sale  Philip  lY.'s  ambassador, 
Cirdenas,  purchased  it  for  £250. 

76.  St  Peter  in  Gaol,  said  to  be  a 
replica  by  Ribera.  77.  The  two  St 
John%  ascribed  to  Greece,  are  of  his 
early  style 

81.  Jesus  bearing  the  Cross,  sscribed 
to  Guide  RenL 

88.  St  Gerome,  sscribed  to  Ribera. 

85.  Descent  from  the  Cross,  by  Yero- 
n< 


86.  A  Mystical  Subject,  by  Tlnto. 
retto. 

88.  Crudflzion,  by  Titian. 

89.  Mystical  Subject,  by  Veronese. 

90.  St  Eugenic^  Archbishop  of  To* 
ledo^  by  El  Greece. 

92.  San  Onefre,  by  Ribera  ;  signed. 

98.  Msgdalen  Penitent,  Tintoretto. 

98.  St  John  in  the  Desert,  Titian. 

101.  Virgin  and  St  Joseph  Watching 
the  Chfld  ssleep»  Veronese 

108.  Burial  of  Christ,  Ribera. 

The  Na  84  is  called  lia  Santa  Forma, 
placed  at  the  S.  end  of  the  room.  On 
the  altar  is  kept  the  wafer  which  bled 
miraculously  at  Goroum  (Holland)  in 
1525,  when  it  was  trodden  under  foot 
by  Zuinglian  partisans.  It  was  taken 
up,  and  after  being  some  time  at  Prague 
and  Vienna,  was  sent  to  Philip  II.  by  the 
Emperor  Rudolph  II.  in  1592.  Thelaige 
painting  was  first  sketched  by  Rizzi,  and 
at  his  death  taken  up  and  modified  by 
Claudio  Coello,  who,  after  seren  years' 
labour,  made  it  his  masterpiece  Thesub- 
ject  isthe  procession  and  ceremony  which 
took  place  In  this  yery  sacristia  in  the 
presence  of  Charles  II.  All  the  heads 
are  portraits ;  the  prior's,  holding  the 
custodia,  is  Santos,  one  of  the  earliest 
and  best  historians  of  the  EscoriaL 
Behind  Charles  are  the  Duke  of  Me- 
dinaceli,  his  prime  minister,  the  Duke 
of  Pastnna,  ete  It  is  a  yery  fine  pic- 
ture, full  of  expresdye  yigour,  exed- 
lent  perspectiye,  and  forms  a  page  of 
histoiy  worth  yolumee  It  has  been 
touched  up  in  1846,  and  well  copied  by 
Lopez  tor  the  Madrid  Picture  Gallery 
(Na  576).  There  are  some  fine  temos 
and  other  church  stuffSi,  beautifully  em- 
broidered, and  exhibiting  pictures  from 
Holy  Writ  embroidered  in  silk.  Spsin 
was  always  cdebrated  for  this  kind  of 
embroidery,  and  the  bordaderas  en  oro 
of  this  day  continue  the  good  tradi- 
tions of  that  art,  which  originated  in 
Ciudad  Rodriga    Many  of  the  yest- 


SSOORIAL — CUUKOU. 


135 


mental  etc,  in  the  Escorial  were  em- 
broidered after  designs  hj  Elmudo, 
Tibeldi,  etc  There  is  one  valned  by 
Sigaenza  at  £46,000. 

The  Camarw  was  erected  in  1692  by 
Olmo  and  Rid,  or  RizzL  There  is  a 
l^orions  collection  here  of  precious 
marbles,  unrivalled  anywhere  else. 
There  is  a  cnstodia  containing  above 
10,000  predons  stone%  and  which  cost 
£6000 ;  it  is  a  present  of  Qneen  Isa- 
bella and  the  King  Consort,  made  to 
the  monastery  in  1866. 

In  the  OapUulario  is  a  fine  old  folio, 
written  by  the  monk  Martin  de  Pa- 
lencia,  and  containing  eighteen  fine 
miniatores  by  Andrte  de  Leon,  Sala- 
zar,  and  other  great  miniatnrists  of  the 
time. 

The  C3b»r.— Visit  first  the  ant$<oro§ 
placed  on  the  sides  of  the  choir.  The 
statne  of  San  Lorenzo  is  an  indifferent 
Roman  statne  sent  from  Rome^  and 
aeeommodi  to  represent  the  Christian 
hero  ;  the  four  lunctos  or  divisions  are 
painted  by  Giordana  In  the  other 
ante-coro  is  a  St  Peter  and  St  Andrew, 
by  El  Mudo,  and  fresco  ceilings,  also 
by  Giordana  Cloee  to  this  the  Libre- 
ria  del  Coro,  where  are  kept  the  colos- 
sal choral  books,  some  of  them  being 
two  yards  wide  ;  each  leaf  was  made 
out  of  the  skin  of  a  calf.  The  Psalms 
of  Maitines  are  by  Cristobal  Ramirez 
and  others.  The  style  of  letter  or 
writing  is  that  called  jMoiMf  by  the  Span- 
ish monkish  caligrapheis,  all  very  able 
hands,  and  the  books  date  from  the 
foundati<m  of  the  Escorial.  They  were 
magnificently  illuminated  by  Andrte 
de  Leon  and  his  pupils,  Julian  de  Fu- 
ente-el-Sas  and  Ambrosio  de  Salazar. 
See  especially,  and  as  specimens,  the 
three  Pasionarioe  and  Ofido  of  the 
Apostle  Santiago  by  Fuente-el-Saz,  and 
the  Beginning  of  tiie  Mass  on  the  Day 
of  St  ffimon  and  St  Judas,  by  Salazar. 
Though  many  are  wanting^  and  others 


are  torn,  there  are  still  fine  specimens 
of  monldsh  bookbinding  by  the  Pft- 
rises  and  Pedro  del  Bosque.  Na  128, 
A  Christ  Crudfied,  by  Kavairete,  of 
little  Talue^  and  a  curious  diptych  by 
Boech,  representing  the  Delists  of  this 
World  and  Punishment  of  the  Wicked. 
The  choir  is  placed  at  the  entrance  of 
the  church,  and  continues  the  central 
nave,  and  though  80  ft  above  the  pave- 
ment, is  still  low  enough  to  allow  spec- 
tators to  follow  the  mass  with  ease.  It 
is  laxge  and  brightly  lighted ;  there  are 
two  series  or  rows  of  stalls,  both  be- 
longing to  the  Corinthian  order,  and 
designed  by  Herrera  himself,  and  made 
out  of  ebony,  cedar,  box,  and  other 
choice  sorts  of  wood ;  they  are  simple 
and  unadorned,  but  very  elegant  imd 
well  carved,  especially  the  prior's  stalL 
To  theS.,  and  close  to  a  small  concealed 
door,  is  the  stall  which  was  used  by 
Philip  II.  ;  and  here  he  was  kneeling, 
absorbed  in  fervent  prayer,  when 
through  that  small  door  a  messenger 
glided,  in  bearing  the  news  of  the  vic- 
tory of  Lepanto  ;  but,  as  when  he  re- 
cdved  the  tidings  of  the  destruction  of 
the  Armada,  his  countenance  remained 
impasdble,  and  he.  resumed  his  in- 
terrupted prayers.  The  lateral  fres- 
coes by  Romulus  Cindnato,  represent 
subjects  from  life  of  the  tutelar  and  of 
St  Qerome^  founder  of  the  order,  to 
whose  care  the  monasteiy  was  entrusted 
by  Philip,  as  they  were  in  great  fii- 
vonr  with  him,  and  had  been  so  also 
with  Charles  Y.  at  Yuste.  The  other 
frescoes  are  by  Luqueto ;  the  ceiling 
is  also  by  hijcn,  and  represents  the 
Bliss  of  Heaven;  in  a  comer  is  the 
portrait  of  Father  Yillaeaatin,  one  of 
the  Escorial  architects,  and  behind  it 
the  painter  introduced  his  own  ;  upon 
observing  which,  Siguenza  said  that 
he  was  ^sd  to  see  that  the  artist 
(whose  way  of  living  was  not  very  or* 
thodox)  had  placed  himself  in  Paradiss 


136 


XSOORIAL — OHUBOH. 


beforehind,  for  he  wm  much  afraid 
that  he  was  in  fo  great  a  hairy  to  make 
monej  that  this  could  never  become 
a  reality.  The  cryatal  chandelier, 
though  much  ill-treated  by  the  French, 
is  a  fine  specimen,  made  at  Milan,  and 
giren  by  Charles  II. 

The  /odstof  (Intern)  is  a  present 
from  Charles  IL  The  ea^e,  with 
spread  wings,  forming  it^  carries  in  its 
beak  the  gridiron,  emblematic  of  the 
tutelar^s  martyrdom.  It  is  clissicsl  in 
style^  but  indifferent  in  execution.  The 
gem  of  this  choir  is  the  beantifril  Car- 
rara marble  crucifix.  It  was  made  by 
Cellini,  and  is  signed  '  Benrenutns  Zo- 
linus  Ciris  Florentinus  (adebat,  1662.' 
The  great  Florentine  carved  it  fur  his 
lord  and  master,  the  Duke  of  Tuscany, 
who  gave  it  to  Philip  IL  The  artist 
prised  it  much,  and  in  his  autobio- 
graphy he  says: — 'Although  I  haye 
made  sereral  marble  statues,  I  shall 
only  mention  one,  from  its  being  of  a 
kind  most  difficult  for  art  to  render — 
that  is  dead  bodies ;  I  speak  of  the 
image  of  Our  Lord  Crucified,  for  which 
I  stodied  a  great  deal,  working  upon 
it  with  the  diligence  and  lore  Uiat 
80  precious  a  timulaere  deserres,  and 
also  because  I  knew  myself  to  be  the 
first  who  erer  executed  crucifixes  in 
marble.' 

fia$Uh$(m, — Descend  a  few  steps, 
which  are,  as  well  as  the  walls,  of 
precious  marbles.  On  the  seoond  land- 
ing the  door  to  right  leads  to  sacristia 
of  the  Pantheon,  and  that  on  left  to 
Pantheon  de  los  Infimtes.  Philip  II. 
built  a  plain  vault,  but  Philip  IIL  and 
PhiUp  IV.,  who  did  not  inherit  the 
ideas  of  simplicity  of  their  sire,  built 
these  theatrical  show-rooms — ^this  al- 
most ironical  gilding  of  bones,  and 
most  pagan-like  series  of  urns.  There 
is  the  icy  blast  of  death  that  chills 
one's  very  bones,  sombie  darkness,  j 
something   opptessiTe  and   repolsiTe  I 


amid  these  shining  marbles  and  gilt 
bronxe ;  nothing  of  the  feelings  that 
fill  the  soul  and  mind  in  the  presence 
of  the  truly  Christian,  yet  regal  and 
beautifbl  tombs  in  medisval  cathedrals, 
with  their  sculptured  effigies  praying 
or  asleep. 

This  pantheon  (the  very  name  is 
pagan)  was  completed  in  1664.  Over 
the  portal  is  the  history  of  its  erection, 
'l4«ussaoer  mortalibus  exuriis,'  etc 
At  the  sides  are  Roman  statues,  alle- 
goricaL  One  is  Nature,  and  the  other 
represents  Hope,  with  the  words, 
'  Katura  ocddit,'  '  Exaltat  Spes.'  The 
Pantheon  itself  is  some  46  ft  dismeter, 
and  88  ft  high.  The  cupola  is  low, 
owing  to  its  being  placed  just  under 
the  steps  leading  to  the  high  altar. 
It  is  of  the  Composite  order,  after 
designs  by  Marquis  Crescend.  It  is 
entii^y  made  of  marbles  from  Tortosa 
and  Biscay,  and  jasper  fhnn  Toledo,  etc 
The  altar  is  also  made  of  the  same  mate- 
rial, heightened  here  and  there,  as  else- 
where too,  by  gilt  bronse  ornaments, 
and  an  indifferent  basso-relieyo,  repre- 
senting the  Burial  of  Christy  by  two 
Hieronymite  monks. 

All  round  the  octagonal  chamber  are 
placed  in  rows,  within  niches,  twenty- 
six  marble  urns,  identically  sited,  and 
not -unlike  an  anatomical  collection. 
The  kings  are  placed  on  the  right  of 
altar,  and  queens  on  leit,  and  none  save 
kings  and  mothers  of  kings  are  buried 
here,  all  according  to  etiquette  and  strict 
classification,  worthy  of  any  French 
bureau.  There  are  wanting  Philip  V., 
Ferdinand  YL,  and  their  queens,  who 
are  buried  at  La  Grai^a  and  Madrid. 
Upon  one  of  the  urns  Maria  Louisa, 
wife  of  Philips  wrote  her  own  name 
with  scissors.  When  Queen  Isabella 
comes  to  the  Escorial,  die  makes  it  a 
point  to  hear  midnight  masses  in  the 
Pantheon  ;  it  is  also  what  Ferdinand 
VIL  liked  to  do^  as  well  as  his  mother. 


S900BIAL — OONVKNT. 


137 


In  the  Infantes  Pantheon,  diagnstingly 
called  'El  PndriderOy'  pudrtn^  are 
placed  in  most  familiar  confusion  the 
bones  of  all  the  Princes  and  Qneens  of 
Spain  whose  sons  did  not  reign.  There 
are  upwards  of  sixty  bodies  :  here  lie 
Isabelle  de  Yaloii  and  Maria  of  Porta- 
gal,  dose  to  the  ill-fated  Don  Carlos, 
son  of  Philip ;  the  son  of  Charles  Y., 
Don  Juan  of  Austria,  who  entreated 
to  be  buried  here,  'as  the  fittest  re- 
ward for  his  seryioea'  (his  body  was 
brought  from  Kamur,  May  1679); 
Louis  Xiy.*s  natural  son,  the  Duo  de 
Yenddme,  etc  We  understand  there  is 
some  talk  of  reforming  this  porti<m  of 
the  Pantheon. 

The  Ckmrent. — ^Enter  from  thoTes- 
tibule  of  church  into  Sala  de  Secretos, 
so  called,  because  eren  whispers  may 
be  heard  from  any  angle,  owing  to  the 
fonn  of  the  ceiling.  Cknutro  Priiuipal 
Ba^o. — ^All  of  granite,  except  the  marble 
pavement ;  its  style  Doric.  This  lower 
cloirter  is  a  square  of  212  fL  each  side. 
The  frescoes  with  the  subjects  from 
life  of  Christ  are  by  Tibaldi,  or  after 
his  designs,  but  executed  by  other 
artists.  The  £.  side  is  all  by  Mm,  but 
none  deserve  attention,  and  they  have, 
moreorer,  been  wretchedly  rtdoftd  by 
Polerd,  Marin,  AigandoUa,  k  Co. 

Patio  de  lc$  SvangelisUM$,—lM  ft 
each  side  of  the  square,  and  60  ft  high. 
There  are  some  indifferent  statues  of 
the  Apostles^  by  Monegra 

Ths  Sala  de  OapUidoi,  or  Chapter- 

houee. — ^There  are  some  pictures  on  the 

-walls,  mostly  copies  from  the  Bassanos, 

and  many  others  with  fine  names^  but 

evidently  copies. 

833.  Christ  Presented  to  the  People 
by  Pilate,  Tintoretto. 

831,  884.  By  Caballero  M4ximo; 
two  Yirgins.  The  latter  picture  was 
lemored  hither  from  a  Madrid  convent 

886.  Koah  Intoxicated,  by  Giordano. 


887.  TheSatyrMar^yaa^Vythei 
Yery  fine. 

889.  Nativity  and  Adoration,  by  Bi- 
bera;  signed,  'Giuseppe  de  Bibera, 
Espatkol  Yalendano,  de  la  Ciudad  de 
Jitiva,  Academico  Bomano.    F.  1640.' 

841.  The  Sons  of  Jacobs  by  Yelas- 
ques ;  painted  by  him  at  Bome,  and 
durinff  his  first  journey  thither,  and 
sent  u>  Spain,  together  with  Yulcan's 
Foige  (Mad.  P.  GaL,  No.  195),  and  his 
own  portrait  for  Paciieco. 

848.  Nativity,  by  Bibera ;  844,  847, 
848,byGiordano.  ThelatterTitianesque. 

849.  St  Gerome  Penitent,  by  Bibera 
(signed). 

882.  St  Marguerite ;  copy  or  replica 
of  Titian's  at  P.  Gall,  No.  861,  tttm 
which  it  varies  (repainted), 

855.  St  Gerome  Praying,  by  Titian 
(signed). 

859.  St  Christopher  (wood),  by  IV 
tenier. 

871.  Crowning  Christ  with  Thorns, 
by  Bosch,  either  a  copy  or  replica  of 
that  in  P.  GalL  of  Yalenda,  No.  878. 
An  oratorio  on  the  subject  '  Omnis 
caro  ftsnum,'  by  Bosch,  signed : '  a  pic- 
ture,' says  Father  Siguena»  'worth 
many  books.' 

899.  St  John,  ascribed  to  Caballero 
M4ximo. 

SalaPrioral. — 

891.  Flowers,  by  F.  Bassano  (signed) ; 
belonged  to  Charles  I.  of  England,  and 
was  purchased  at  his  sale. 

892.  Flowers,  by  Mario  Mini,  sur- 
named  dei  Fiwi 

895.  '  Yiigen  de  la  Antigua,'  a  copy 
made  by  A.  Sanches  Coello  of  that 
effigy  in  Cathedral  of  SeviUe;  dates 
1564. 

411.    The    Prayer    on   Olivet,    by 

439.  Copy  of  Titian's  Eoce  Ucmo, 
by  El  Mudo. 
^42.  Loth,  ascribed  to  Yaocaro. 
444.   Christ  at  the  PhaiiseeX  VT 


138 


S900BIAL — OONVEMi: 


Tintoretto^  pnrdiAsed  at  Charles  I. 'a. 
sale  for  £100. 

440.  The  Lord's  Sapper,  by  Titian, 
formerly  in  the  refectory  (repainted). 

448.  Qneen  Esther,  by  Tintoretto^ 
purchased  at  sale  of  Charles  I.  of  Eng- 
land for  £100. 

458.  Hades^  by  Bosch.  A  pendant 
in  Mad.  P.  GalL,  No.  460. 

468.  Flowers,  by  Mario  dei  Fiori 
(signed  1660). 

Iglma  Fi^ — Used  as  a  chapel  nntQ 
the  completion  of  the  laiger  actual 
chnrch.  On  each  side  of  the  altar 
are  an  Ecce  Homo  and  Adoration  of 
Msgi,  by  Titian,  perhaps  only  a  copy 
or  replica  of  No.  882,  in  Mad.  P.  GalL, 
ill  treated,  if  not  altogether  disfigured 
and  spoilt,  by  restorers,  and  a  copy  of 
Titian's  Burial  of  Christ,  formerly 
here^  end  now  at  the  Mad.  P.  GalL, 
No.  818.  In  the  high  altar  is  a  large 
painting  by  Titian,  representing  San 
Lorenzo's  Martyrdom — rery  fine,  but 
ill  restored,  plaoed  in  a  bad  ligh^  and 
the  picture  itself  reiy  sombre.  It  has 
been  engrsTcd  by  Cornelius  Coort 

468.  EnUmmieiUo  (eflSgy,  etc)  of 
Charles  Y.,  by  Pantoja,  dated  1699. 

470.  Our  Lady  of  Soirow,  by  Ti- 
tian (I). 

476.  Martyrdom  of  Santiago,  by  El 
Mudo ;  in  Uie  background.  Battle  of 
CUt^o  (signed  and  dated  1671).  The 
executioner's  face  is  a  portrait  of  a 
blacksmith,  a  countryman  (jpaiBcmo)  of 
the  painter^s  (Siguenza). 

477.  480,  484,  406.  Escutcheons  of 
the  House  of  Austria ;  they  are  sketches 
of  some  that  were  to  haTe  been  placed 
orer  each  enterramiento  in  high  chapel, 
by  Pantoja. 

478.  Annunciation,  by  Veronese 
(signed,  dated  1683),  was  painted  for 
the  high  chapel,  but  found  too  large, 
and  Tibaldi's  (No.  2)  placed  instead. 

479.  Nativity  and  Adoration  of  Shep- 
herd%  hj  Tintoretto^  painted  for  the 


ivtoMo  of  high  chapel ;  there  are^  besides^ 
seyeral  indifferent  Cangiagi  and  Zne* 
caros. 

486.  St  Maurice  and  his  brother 
martyrs^  by  Grecoo  (signed,. 

EsedUra  Principal  leads  from  the 
latter  cloisters  to  the  uj^ier  ones.  It  is 
magnificent,  and  the  work  of  J.  Baut 
de  Toledo,  and  J.  Baut  Castillo,  sur- 
named  El  Beigamasco,  and  father  of 
the  fresco-painters,  the  Granelli  The 
frescoes  on  the  walls  are  by  Luqueto 
and  Tibaldi,  of  no  merit,  and  scenes 
from  the  battle  of  San  Quintin,  by 
Giordano,  and  an  allegory  of  the  foun- 
dation of  Escorial  by  Philip.  All  the 
figures  are  portraits. 

Claudro  Principal  AUo  contains  but 
few  good  pictures.  No.  144.  Christ 
Appearing  to  His  Mother  after  the  Re- 
surrection is  ascribed  to  £1  Mudo. 
The  series  from  life  of  St  Lorenzo  are 
by  Carducd,  and  indifferent,  and  the 
scenes  from  History  of  St  Gerome,  by 
Gomez.  A  fine  St  Gerome  Penitent 
(No.  174),  by  £1  Mudo,  signed,  and  a 
once  magnificent  Nativity  and  Adora- 
tion of  Shepherds,  by  same  (No.  176), 
before  which  Siguenza  says  he  often 
heard  Tibaldi  exclaim,  <0h,  gU  beUi 
pastorir 

176.  Sacrifice  of  Abraham,  a  copy  of 
Andrea  del  Sarto's  in  Vienna  P.  GalL 
(a  replica  in  Mad.  P.  GalL,  under  No. 
887).  This  original  picture,  of  which 
the  Madrid  one  is  a  replica,  was  sent 
to  Francis  L  of  France,  by  A.  del 
Sarto.  The  replica  was,  at  Andrea's 
death,  purchased  by  Marq.  del  Vasto, 
or  Guast,  whose  porteait  Titian  painted. 

187.  Holy  Family,  by  El  Mudo^  was 
a  great  favourite  of  Philip's. 

188.  The  Scourging  of  Christ,  by  the 
same ;  the  head  of  the  Saviour,  fine. 

189.  Descent  from  the  (>dss,  hj 
Veronese  (1). 

Avia  de  Moral—Thia  ffaU  of  Jfo- 


B800RIAL — CONVENT. 


139 


ralUy  WIS  used* by  the  monks  to  hold 
conferences  on  points  of  morality  and 
theolpgy,  and  solve  casuistio  oontro* 
▼ersiea. 

Piehim.—lOS.  The  Besmrection  of 
Christy  ascribed  to  Veronese. 

111.  Burial  of  San  Lorenzo,  by  El 
Kudo ;  used  to  be  hong  in  his  own 
rooms  at  the  EsooriaL 

118.  Descent  from  the  Cross,  signed 
by  Veronese. 

114.  Charles  V.,  an  early  copy  from 
Titian's  at  Vienna. 

116.  John  of  Austria,  copy  by  Car- 
re&os. 

Camaiin, — Little  remains  here  of 
the  former  treasures,  most  of  the  best 
pictnres  having  been  removed  to  Mad- 
rid. There  are  some  MS.  by  Santa 
Teresa,  the  works  of  St.  Austin,  written 
in  the  8th  oentury,  and  some  relics. 

905.  A  Crucifixion,  ascribed  to 
Titian,  and  910,  a  Vitellum,  painted 
and  stuck  on  wood,  ascribed  to  Holbein, 
Lucca  of  Holland,  etc.  (it  was  a  present 
to  Philip  from  Philibert  of  Savoy). 
There  are,  besides,  several  miniatures 
by  Leon  and  Fuente-el-Sas. 

Celda  FriortU  AUa, — Some  good  mar- 
queteiie ;  the  windows  look  on  the  gar- 
dens and  fish-ponds.  192  is  a  copy  by 
Carrefio  of  Simches  Coello*s  very  fine 
portrait  of  Father  Josi  de  Siguenza, 
the  learned  and  earlier  historian  of  the 
Esoorial ;  the  rest  are  copies.  Close  to 
this  cloister  is  a  room  where  Ferdinand 
VIL  wasconfined,  having  been  arrested 
for  high  treason.  It  contains  a  few 
pictures:  a  copy  of  Raphael's  Trans- 
figuration by  a  Flemish  pidnter ;  an  ez- 
cdlent  one  of  that  great  master's '  Perla,' 
by  Santos.  821.  A  Virgin,  by  Carlo 
Dolce,  etc 

In  the  Cdda  Prioral  Bc^a  is  a  por- 
trait of  Charies  V.  by  Pantoja,  aged 
forty-seven,  signed  (No.  419). 

420.  Philip  II.,  aged  twenty-five,  by 
Antonio  Moro  (signed). 


424.  Portrait  of  Mariana  of  Austria, 
Philip  II. 's  wife,  by  Carrifio. 

426.  Portrait  of  Charles  IL,  aged 
fourteen,  by  the  same,  replica^  copy,  or 
original  of  No.  250. 

The  rest  of  the  convent  is  occupied 
by  eight  smaller  cloisters,  the  apothe- 
cary's hall,  kitchens,  etc — aU  on  the 
same  colossal  scale 

Idbraiy. — ^This  portion  of  the  edifice 
bears  most  completely  and  strongly 
marked  the  stamp  of  the  found^'s 
and  architect's  mind.  As  the  Esoorial 
was  intended  to  be  the  largest  convent, 
the  noblest  church,  and,  besidefl^  the 
emporium  of  the  fine  arts,  sciences,  and 
letters  of  the  sge,  there  were  seminaries 
and  schools  formed,  and  a  magnificent 
library,  collected  with  care  and  dili- 
gence, and  containing  at  length  invalu- 
able treasures  of  Arab  art  and  science^ 
Greek  and  Hebrew  MSS.,  etc.  The 
Biblioteca  is  placed  above  the  porch  of 
the  Patio  de  los  Beyes.  It  is  194  ft. 
long  by  82  ft.  wide  (Spanish).  The 
arched  ceiling  is  painted  by  Tibaldi  and 
Carducho  with  subjects  personifying 
the  sciences  and  arta  The  composi- 
tions and  allegories,  etc,  were  the  woric 
of  Siguenza.  The  bookcases  ana 
shelves  are  made  of  ebony,  cedar,  orange, 
and  other  choice  woods,  and  were  de- 
signed by  Herrer ;  the  pavement  is  of 
white  and  daric  marbles.  In  the  middle 
of  this  long  and  beautiful  ro(Mn,  very 
well  lighted  up,  are  five  large  marble 
and  jasper  tables,  with  smaller  ones  in  • 
porphyry,  for  the  use  of  reader^  a  pre- 
sent from  Philip  IV.  There  are  several 
portraits  here ;  that  of  CJharles  V.,  aged 
forty-nine,  is  a  fine  copy  of  Titian's,  by 
Pantqja.  Opposite  is  that  of  Philip  IL, 
aged  seventy-one,  ascribed  by  some  to 
Pantoja,  and  by  others  to  Moro ;  Philip 
III.,  aged  twenty-three,  by  Pantoja; 
and  Charles  II.,  aged  fourteen,  by  C^- 
refto.    There  is,  besides^  a  marble  bust 


140 


ISOOBIAL — dONYENT. 


of  Cioero,  add  to  hare  been  found  at 
Hercalaneam ;  a  plaster  boat  of  the 
great  Spanish  aeaman  Jorge  Joan,  and 
two  baasi-relieyi  repreaenting  the  two 
aidea  of  the  medal  giTen  by  Philip  II. 
to  Herrera,  and  engraved  by  Qiaoomo 
.Treno.  A  portrait  of  Herrera,  one  of 
laabelle  of  Portugal,  Charka  Y.'a  wife, 
by  Cranach  (I),  and  of  Fray  Ceballoa, 
who  wrote  'Falae  Philosophy  is  a  State 
Grime,'  etc,  complete  the  catalogae 
here. 

The  library  itaeli^  once  one  of  the 
rioheat  in  Europe,  haa  been  aadly  dimi- 
niahed  through  neglect,  inrasion  of  the 
French,  and  thefts^  but  still  amounts  to 
some  50,000  vols.  The  basis  of  it  was 
formed  by  Philip's  private  library,  num- 
bering 4000  vola.,  of  which  the  index 
or  catalogue  still  exists,  with  notes  in 
the  king'a  hand.  Host  of  the  books  afe 
bound  in  black  or  daric  purple  leather. 
A  year  after.they  were  placed  here(1675), 
Philip'a  ambassador  to  Rome,  Don 
Diego  )le  Mendosa,  died,  bequeathing 
to  hia  maater  his  carefolly  collected 
library.  The  collection  was  consider- 
ably augmented  by  gifts,  bequests,  and 
additions  made  up  with  books  from 
several  Inquisitions,  convents,  and  the 
Chapel  Royal  of  Granada.  Alfonao  del 
Gaatillo  was  ordered  by  Philip  to  pnr- 
chaae  every  good  Arab  work  he  might 
&11  upon.  The  catalogue  of  all  the 
Arab  works  in  the  Esoorial  extant  then, 
may  be  aeen  in  Hottinger'a  '  Promptu- 
arium  aive  fiibliotheca  Grientalia,'  pub- 
liahed  at  Heidelbeig  in  1668,  in  4to. 
The  original  catalogue  was  classified  by 
Ariaa  Montano  and  Father  Siguenia. 
In  1614  the  valuable  library  of  the 
Emperor  of  Morocco^  Muley  Zidan, 
amounting  to  8000  volnmea,  was  con- 
veyed here,  having  been  found  on  board 
a  ahip  that  was  captured  near  Sallee. 
Host  of  them  were  burnt  in  the  fire 
which  took  place  it  1691,  lasted  fifteen 
day%  and  destroyed  whde  portiona  of 


the  EsooriaL  Of  the  MSS.  thus  lost 
<  no  index  was  formed.  In  Gharlea  III.  's 
time  the  Maronite  Caairi  published  au 
index  of  the  Arab  HSS.  extant  in  his 
time  — '  Bibliotheca  Arabico-Hispana 
Eacurialenaia,'  foUo,  S  vola. ;  Madrid, 
1760-70,  but  which  is  generally  con- 
aidered  inaccurate.  The  Greek  MSS. 
were  daaaified  by  Fray  J.  de  Cuenca, 
'  Bibliotheca  Oreca,'  etc,  26  vols,  folic 
Strange  to  say,  Spaniah  libraries,  that 
ought  to  possess  the  richest  and  laigest 
coUection  of  Arab  MSS.,  are,  through 
ns^ect,  hatred  to  the  Moor,  and  oppo- 
sition of  the  clergy,  among  the  pooreat 
in  Europe,  and  there  are  petty  German 
University  libraries  richer  in  this  than 
the  Escorial,  where  there  are  but  aome 
1824  MSS.  Amongst  the  books  shown 
to  visitors  is  the  'Codice  Aureo,'  con- 
taining the  four  Goepels  in  gold  letters. 
It  was  begun  under  Conrad  II.,  Emperor 
of  the  Weat,  and  finished  about  the 
middle  of  the  11th  century ;  the  illu- 
minations are  fine  and  curioua.  There 
is  a  fine  Koran.  Amongst  the  Greek 
MSS.  there  are  many  treasures  that  call 
for  a  patient  Hellenist  There  are  very 
intereating  'Spanish  Chronicles,'  a  col- 
lection of  councils  of  the  10th  and  11th 
centuries^  a  work  on  chess,  dice,  and 
other  games^  written  by  order  of  Alfonao 
the  Learned,  and  with  many  illumina- 
tions ;  Sevill^  1821.  The  'Censo  Gene- 
ral,' under  Philip  IL,  and  a  magnificent 
herbary,  in  18  vols.,  time  of  Philip  II., 
compridng  American  plants.  There 
are  idao  valuable  collectiona  of  aketches, 
etchings,  and  engravings  by  Raphael, 
M.  Angelo,  A.  Diirer,  Titian,  Breughel, 
etc  'Hie  Upper  Library  is  not  public, 
and  containa  prohibited  booka,  missals, 
and  the  Arab  MSS. 

There  ia  dooe  to  the  library  a  reading- 
room,  for  the  use  of  those  who  consult 
the  MSS.  and  booka.  There  is  also  a 
'Catalogue  precip.  auctor.  ineditor. 
MSS.'  in  the  Escorial,  by  Barvaeti,  eto 


BSOORIAL — PAULOE. 


141 


A  permissioii,  signed  by  the  intendente 
delaReal  Can»  at  Madrid,  and  connter- 
■igned  bj  the  bibliotecario,  etc,  is  in- 
dispensable. As  for  the  rest,  patience 
and  ordinary  civility  will  help  the 
stndent  more  than  royal  orders,  intro- 
dnctions,  or  oatalogaes.  In  this  room 
there  are  some  portraits  of  learned  Span- 
iards, very  indifferent,  and  one  of  Arias 
Montano,  ascribed  to  Znrbarin. 


The  Falaoe  is  placed  in  the  angle  to 
£.  and  W.  of  the  whole  edifice.  The 
principal  staircase  is  by  YillanneTB, 
and  was  made  for  Charles  lY.,  as  the 
former  one  was  not  conyenient. 

The  rooms  in  the  palace  were  origin- 
ally most  phdnly  fitted  up,  'Philip 
wishing,  he  said,  bnt  for  a  cell  in  the 
palace  he  had  boilt  to  God.'  They 
were  snbeeqnently  altered,  and  the  waUs 
hong  with  Tery  beantifnl  tapestry  made 
at  the  Fabrica  of  Madrid  after  designs 
by  Goya,  Bayen,  Maella,  and  others, 
nnder  the  direction  of  Stnyck  ;  besides 
191  made  in  Flanders  from  designs  by 
David  Tenien,  and  some  twenty  Gobe- 
lins and  Italian.  The  subjects  were 
most  happily  chosen,  and  such  as  it  is 
to  be  regretted  were  not  oflener  adopted 
by  the  great  Spanish  masters. 

Philip  II. 's  own  room  is  indeed  a  cell, 
and  here  allis  plainness.  Itwasso placed 
that  he  might  be  dose  to  the  high  altar, 
and  hear  and  see  the  mass  from  his  bed 
when  ilL  There  are  but  a  few  remains 
of  the  furniture  dating  of  that  time :  a 
chair  used  by  him  when  suffering  from 
gout,  a  stool,  said  to  be  that  on  which 
Antonio  Perez,  his  well-known  secretary, 
used  to  sit,  are  all  that  now  remain. 
But  his  mind  is  still  to  be  seen  every- 
where. Philip  worked  very  hard,  went 
to  bed  late^  and  the  monks*  chants 
awoke  him  every  morning  at  four,  when 
he  heard  mass,  and  so  devoutly  and 
fervently  did  he  pray  that  tears  were 


often  seen  streaming  down  his  cheeks. 
For  two  months  previous  to  his  death 
he  endured  excruciating  pain  with  firm- 
ness and  ]Mtienoe.  On  feeling  his 
death  approach,  he  was  taken  in  a  Utter 
all  over  iht  building  of  his  creation,  to 
see  once  more,  and  bid  adieu  for  the 
last  time  to  all  those  portions  which 
were  more  especially  his  favourites,  and 
on  Sunday  the  18th  September  1598, 
he  expired  during  the  usual  morning 
service,  with  his  eyes  turned  towtods 
the  high  altar  and  the  host,  and  grasp- 
ing in  his  hands  the  very  crudfix 
which  his  father,  Charles  Y.,  held  when 
he  died. 

Sola  de  las  BataOaa,  —On  the  S.  side 
of  the  palace,  so  called  from  frescoes 
on  the  walls  painted  by  Granello  and 
Fabrido,  and  representing  important 
battles  and  sieges.  One  of  these  has  for 
subject  the  battle  of  La  Higueruda, 
where  Juan  II.  defeated  the  Moors,  1481. 
This  fresco  dates  1587,  and  was  copied 
by  order  of  Philip  from  a  chiaro-oscuro 
canvass  some  180  ft  long,  found  in  a 
lumber-room  in  the  Alcazar  of  Segovia. 
It  is  most  important  to  artists  on 
account  of  the  costume,  arm%  and 
nulitaiy  dispodtion  of  troops  in  those 
times.  The  other  frescoes  represent 
several  battles  and  naval  expeditions  of 
Philip  II.  in  Flanders,  Terceira  Islands, 
the  Battie  and  Siege  of  St  Quintin, 
Lepanto,  etc  ;  all  very  curious  and 
interesting.  There  are  rooms  richly 
ornamented  with  inlaid  wood  and  fine 
specimens  of  ironmonger's  work  in 
Spain ;  see  the  locks  and  handles,  with 
inlaid  gold.  The  four  rooms  containing 
them  date  from  Charles  IY.*s  time,  and 
cost  some  £280,000.  They  are  called 
'piezas  de  madems  fines.'  Among 
other  pictures  scattered  in  different 
rooms,  we  may  mention  : — 

In  the  Cuarto  de  los  Infantes,  1.  A 
Yirgin,  by  A.  Cano ;  and  a  small  por* 
trait  of  Philip  II.  by  Pantoja. 


H2 


SSOOBIAL — OOMPAl^A. 


In  the  Despacho,  Portrait  of  Charles 
IIL,  by  Hengs ;  a  view  of  Yenioe,  by 
Canaletto. 

In  SaU  de  Corte,  a  half-length  por- 
trait of  Olivaree,  aacribed  to  Yelaa- 
qnei. 

In  the  Qneen'a  Oratory,  a  Virgin,  by 
Juan  de  Juanea,  besides  seyeral  Ken^ 
Kaellaa,  etc 

Oompafla. — So  called  becaose  it  did 
aoompeMar  in  its  way  the  rest  of  the 
edifice.  It  is  an  edifloe  placed  on  the 
W.  side,  and  communicating  with  the 
palace  by  a  gallery.  Here  were  the 
mills,  slaughter>hoo8ei^  doth-factory, 
and  other  offices  and  trades  that  fed 
and  clothed  the  population  inhabiting 
the  convent,  which  was  a  town  in 
itselt 

The  N.  and  W.  sides  of  the  building 
front  the  village  and  mountains,  and 
have  a  paved  platform  or  terraces  called 
loi^a  (lounge  f )  On  the  K.  side  is  also 
a  fine  lo^ja,  with  a  subterraneous 
gallery,  180  ft  long  and  10  ft  high, 
made  in  1770  by  a  monk  called  Pon- 
tones,  to  avoid  the  winter  hurricanes 
whilst  crossing  to  or  fhmi  the  village. 
To  the  E.  and  W.  are  fine  terraces 
overlooking  hanging  gardens  and  fish- 
ponds. The  slopes  around  and  below 
are  planted  with  elms  said  to  have  been 
brought  iWmi  England  by  Philip  11. 
Visit  especially  the  Herreria  and  Free- 
neda,  which  are,  or  rather  were  once, 
thickly  pUinted.  The  Escorial  (that  is 
the  convent^  palace,  etc)  belongs  to  the 
queen's  patrimony ;  sev««l  monks  have 
recently  been  allowed  to  return,  but 
their  number  does  not  suffice  to  say  the 
17,588  masses  for  which  money  was 
left  by  the  sovereigns  of  the  House  of 
Austris,  etc,  and  Ferdinand  VI 1. 

The  view  fh>m  the  towers  of  the 
Escorial  embraces  extensive  but  melan- 
choly wastes,  trooless,  trackless,  and  al- 
most at  our  feet,  that  odd  contrast  (now 
daily  losing  its  first  force)  of  a  railway 


and  stations^  Newcastle  coal  and  iron, 
and  trains  running  thirty  miles  an  hour, 
dose  to  this  monument  of  bygone  ages, 
in  whose  cold  granite  bosom  sleep  the 
mighty  representatives  of  the  genius, 
power,  grandeur,  and  backwardness,  ojf 
their  sge.  Only  imagine  Charles  V.  and 
Philip  rising  from  their-  tombs,  and 
seeing  their  old  rival  Henry  de  Beam's 
descendant,  the  Catholic  Queen  of 
Spain,  passing  by  like  a  whirlwind  in 
an  express  train,  amid  heretical  engine- 
drivers  and  Voltairian  stock-jobbers  1 

Before  we  bid  adieu  to  the  Spaniards' 
eighth  marvel  of  the  world,  we  may  be 
allowed  to  make  someremarks  suggested 
by  its  style  The  Escorial  is  a  very 
important  work  in  the  history  of  archi- 
tecture, as  it  constitutes  one.  of  the 
earliest  and  most  perfect  types  of  the 
Greco-Eomsn  school,  the  principles  of 
which  the  Spanish  architects  were 
taught  to  admire  and  copy  from  the 
ruins  of  antiquity  and  the  modem 
edifices  of  Italy,  at  the  period  when 
the  intercourse  with  that  country 
became  so  frequent  Mr.  Fei^gusson 
('  Histoiy  of  the  Modem  Styles  of  Archi- 
tecture, etc,'  London  1862)  maintains 
that  in  this,  as  in  most  Spanish  pseudo- 
classical  edifices,  the  influence  of  Teu- 
tonic art  is  evident,  as  well  as  the 
ignorance  of  classical  detoiL  'Tlic 
sombre  but  magnificent  pile  of  the 
Escorial  exhibits  a  series  of  solecisms 
which  would  have  shocked  the  disciples 
of  Vignola  and  Palladio ;  but  the  whole 
design  shows  more  of  Gothic  character 
than  the  masterpieces  of  Wren  and 
Michael  Angela  This  'grandest  and 
gloomiest  failure  of  modem  times,'  with 
its  forcible  outlines  and  massive  group- 
ings, puts  utterly  to  shame  the  miser- 
able monotony  of  the  still  more  modem 
palace  of  Madrid. '  The  first  impression 
it  usually  produces  is  that  of  disap- 
pointment ;'  the  last  is  often  Uiat  of 
ennui,  and  delight  to  come  out  of  the 


ESCX)RiAL — OASITA  DSL  PRINCIPS. 


143 


damp,  heavy,  sombre  necropolis  of 
stone  once  more  into  sunshine  and  air.' 
This  buildings  with  its  great  height, 
and  long,  endless,  horizontal,  unbroken 
lines,  destitute  of  mouldings,  relief^ 
morement^  and  yarietj,  is  an  erident 
illustration  of  this  fact— that  the  purely 
classical  style,  divested  of  the  resources 
that  the  Revival  ushered  in,  is  as  ill 
adapted  to  edifices  of  any  great  size  as 
the  Gothic  to  small  ones.  But  the 
Escorial  must  be  considered  as  a  con- 
vent, and  not  a  pile  built  for  ostentation 
or  effect,  as  the  inspiration  of  a  great 
mind  tainted  with  melancholy,  of  deep 
piety,  which  sought  rather  to  ponder 
on  the  sombre,  awful,  retributive  side 
of  religion,  than  on  the  sunnier  one  of 
mercy,  hope,  bliss,  and  love.  The  man 
explains  tiie  edifice,  and  the  edifice  is 
the  picture  of  the  man.  Those  granite 
towers,  resting  on  deep,  massive  foun- 
dations, rise  boldly  into  the  heaven— 
lofty,  aspirings  plidn,  like  the  prajrers 
his  stem  heart  sent  forth  to  Qod.  Thoso 
spacious  haUs,  without  pictures  or 
stonework  to  distract  the  eye,  lighted 
up,  and  leading  finally  all  to  the  church 
and  the  altar,  are  like  the  avenues 
of  his  mind.  Each  part  has  a  signifi- 
cance and  a  meaning,  and  all  blend 
into  one  harmonious  whole,  like  the 
notes  of  Mozart's  Requiem  or  the  Stabat 
Mate):  of  Rossini 

Here  Philip  came,  not  to  live  as  a 
prince,  but  to  die  as  a  monk — 

*  With  age,  with  cares,  with  maladies  opprened. 
He  mught  the  refuge  of  monastic  rest* 
JOHMSOif,  Thft  Vtmiif  ^  Human  Wisht*. 

to  'carry'  as  ho  said,  'his  own  bones 
to  the  grave.' 

J^Ulip*8  ChapeL — ^About  14  m.  is  the 
SiUa  del  Rcy,  a  seat  formed  by  granite 
boulders,  whence  Philip  used  to  watch 
the  progress  and  effect  of  the  rising 
edificei 

Gaaita  del  Frinoipa.— Built  in  1772 


for  Charles  lY.  by  yillanueTa»  and 
placed  on  the  slope  of  the  hill  on  which 
the  convent  rises.  It  is  snironnded  by 
gardens  and  shrubberies^  n^c^ected  and 
weedy.  It  was  intended  for  a  toy  or 
show-house,  rather  than  for  a  rdidenoe, 
and  containes  a  few  curiosities^  In  the 
ante-room  are  some  Giordanos  and  a 
Caracd ;  the  others  hftve  fine  names, 
and  many  are  certainly  original  daubs. 
There  are  some  bits  of  good  marble 
marquetry,  ivoiy-work  worthy  of  Chi- 
nese patience,  jaspers  and  gilding, 
docks,  faded  silks,  and  furniture  of 
that  Renaissance  Pompeii  and  Hercu-. 
laneum  style  so  long  the  fiuhion  with 
Napoleon  and  the  Spanish  Bourbons. 
The  Casa  del  Infiinte  is  another  house, 
but  most  indifferent,  built  for  the 
Infiemte  Don  Gabriel 

Book$  qf  ^ermee, — 1.  'Kemorias 
sobre  la  Fundacion  del  Escorial  y  su 
Fdbrica,'  by  Fray  Juan  de  San  Geroni- 
mo  (MS.  in  Library  of  Escorial,  E.  j.  7); 
also  published  in  Uie  valuable  '  Coleo- 
cion  de  Documentos  ineditos  para 
la  Historia  de  Espafta,'  rcl.  viL  The 
author  was  one  of  the  first  monks 
sent  by  Philip  IL  to  found  the  mo- 
nastery. 

2.  '  Sumario  y  Breve  Dedaradon  de 
los  Diselios  y  Estampas  de  la  F4b. 
de  S.  Lorenzo  dd  Escorial,  por  Juan 
de  Herrera  ;'  Madrid,  1589,  8vo ;  most 
rare^  and  of  great  value,  as  being  the 
handbook  to  Escorial  by  its  architect 
A  copy  in  libniy  of  Duke  of  Osuna, 
Madrid. 

8.  '  Descripdon  de  la  Octava  Mara- 
villa  de  d  Mundo,'  etc,  by  Alfonso 
de  Almda,  dedicated  to  Philip  II. ;  MS. 
foL  in  BibL  KacL  (G.  194),  dates 
1694. 

4.  'Descripdon  Breve,'  etc,  with 
the  additions  to  the  edifice  by  Philip 
lY.,  by  Father  de  los  Santos ;  Madrid, 
Impta.  Real,  1657,  foL  ;  several  edi- 
tions. 


U4 


ESTRSMADURA. 


6.  'Descripdon,'  by  Ponz,  in  hit 
'Yiage  de  Etpafia,'  vol  u. 

6.  Qneredo's  detailed  'Hiita.  del 
Beel  Komsterio,  etc  ;  Madrid,  Kel- 
lado,  1849.  The  enthor  was  librarian 
of  the  Eecorial,  and  therefore  could  die- 


poie  of  every  document  in  it  relating  to 
the  eabject  It  is  saperior  to  Botondo 
and  Bomigo's  works. 

N.B, — For  the  catalpgoes  of  booki 
published  on  the  library,  see  9i^pra: 
Ltbrary, 


E8TREMADURA. 


Qoographioal  and  AdministratlTa 
DlTiaions,  6to.^This  out-of-the-way, 
dull,  and  most  uninteresting  region 
comprises  now  the  proTinoes  of  Cdceres 
and  Badijos.  It  derives  its  name  from 
Eztrema-Oria,  the  last  and  extreme 
conquest  of  Alfonso  IX.  (1228).  The 
length  is  162  m.  from  Sierra  de  Gata 
to  &erra  Morena,  and  the  breadth  123 
m.  frt>m  E.  to  W.,  occupjring  a  surface 
of  some  1211  square  leagues,  with  a 
population  of— Cdceres,  208,672;  Ba- 
di^os,  408,786 ;  total,  697,407  (1860). 
The  Sierra  Morena  separates  it  on  the 
8.  from  Andalusia ;  to  the  K.  it  is 
bounded  hy  Leon  and  New  OastOe  ;  to 
the  E.  by  the  hills  of  Bcjar  and  the 
Batuecas  and  Sierra  de  Franda ;  and  to 
W.  by  Portugal,  from  which  it  is  sepa- 
rated by  the  EJjas,  Tsgus,  and  Sierra 
de  Qata.  Badajoz  ii  Uie  residence  of 
the  Oaptain-Qeneral  of  Estremadura  and 
C^loeres,  the  see  of  the  bishop  and  Au- 
dienda.  It  ii  mostly  very  flat,  and  con- 
sists of  boundless,  trackless  plains,  with 
villsges  like  happy  days, '  few  and  &r 
between,'  and  an  indolent,  simple,  pas- 
toral, ignorant  population,  given  ex- 
clusively to  pasturing  and  rearing 
swine.  The  dties  are  very  poor,  and 
lack  objects  of  interest  to  the  tourist 
The  want  of  roads,  wretched  accommo- 
dation, and  absence  of  subjects  of  in- 
terest to  attract  tourists,  have  made  us 
write  so  brief  a  description  of  its  towns. 
However,  the  very  features  of  this 
oonntiy,  its  loneliness  and  silence,  its 
unexplored  natural  history,  may  tempt 


some  tourists  of  a  peculiar  dass  and 
diBpodtion.  We  refer  them,  therefore, 
to  Madrid,  from  Lisbon  to  Ciceres. 
We  must  not  foiget  to  recommend 
most  especially  to  antiquaries  an  ex- 
curdon  to  Merida,  Alcantara,  Ooria, 
etc,  which  abound  in  very  important 
Roman  antiquities;  and  Tuste  will 
attract  all  admirers  of  Charies  Y.,  who 
lived  and  died  in  the  monastery  of  this 
name  (see  Cdeeres),  The  spring  and 
autumn  must  bo  selected  as  the  best 
periods  of  the  year  for  visiting  this 
seldom- vidted  region  of  Spain. 


RouUt. 


Madrid  to  Afanaden, 

nul 
Merida,  r. 
Badajot,  r. 
TnijUlo,diL 
C4cerea,da. 


Alcantara,  rid. 
Coria,  rid. 

Plasencia,  rid.ordiL 
Talavera,  rid. 
Toledo,  dil. 
Madria,  raU. 


The  EstremeAos  are  dull  holgaanes 
to  the  backbone,  unprogresdve,  honest, 
and  trustworthy.  Their  dress  is  dark 
and  unpicturesque. 

Bockiof  Rtfermce, — 1.  'Observadones 
sobre  Iss  Antig.  de  Extrem.,  by  the 
Marqu^  de  Yddeflores ;  foL  MS.  in 
the  Academia  de  Historia,  Madrid. 
Important  to  antiquaries. 

4.  *  Situadon,  Limites,  Historia,  Mi- 
nes, Oanados,  etc.,  de  Estremadura,' 
vols.  26  to  86  of  IJUTQga*s  valuable 
*  Mems.  Econ.  y  politicas  de  EspaAa,' 
Madrid,  1796-97. 

Fomer's  Antiguedades  (MS.);  the 
most  important  work  on  the  subject, 
according  to  Yaldeflores  and  othen^ 
have  been  mided. 


145 


QALICIA. 


Oaogn^hioal  and  AdministratlTe 
DlTisiont,  Birers,  ato. — ^The  fonner 
Beino  de  Galicia  now  contains  four 
lai^  and  thiddj  poopled  proTinces — 
Tic  GoniAa,  capital  La  Conifia,  popu- 
lati<m  657,811 ;  Ponteyedra,  capital 
Ponteredra,  population  440,269;  Oiense, 
capital  Orenae,  popnlation*  869,188; 
and  lAigo,  capital  Lugo^  population 
482,616:  total,  1,799,224  sonla. 

OoruAa  is  the  residence  of  the  cap- 
tain-general, under  whose  mHitaiy  ju- 
risdiction the  four  proTinoes  sre  placed, 
and  the  seat  of  the  Audienda.  It  is 
bounded  on  the  K.  by  the  Bay  of  Bis- 
cay, E.  by  Astuiias  and  New  Castile, 
a  by  Portugal,  andW.  bytheAtiantio. 
Its  extent  is  some  1082  square  leagues; 
which,  when  we  consider  its  population, 
is  an  erident  proof  that,  compared  with 
other  provinces,  Ckdicia  is  by  &r  the 
most  densely  peopled  of  Spidn.  The 
principal  rirers  are  :  The  Ifilko  (Portu- 
guese Minho\  which  crosses  the  whole 
reino  from  K.  to  8.,  an  extent  of  80 
kil. ;  and  the  Tambre,*  flowing  from  E. 
to  W.,  intersecting  the  country,*  and, 
together  with  numberless  tributaries, 
watering  its  Talleys  to  excess.  The 
country  is  hilly.  The  Sierras  de  Loba, 
Testeiro,  Sierra  de  Porto,  de  St  Ka- 
met,  Sena,  etc,  are  lofty  and  woody, 
and  the  I4co  Ancares  and  Pe&a  Tie- 
Tinca  on  the  eastern  boundary  are 
corered  with  snow  almost  all  the  year. 
The  lower  TaUeys  are  warm  and 
sunny,  and  sereral  of  them,  especially 
about  the  Mifio,  most  beautifiil  and  wild. 

History.— That  of  Galicia  is  the 
least  interesting  in  Spain ;  indeed,  there 
scarcely  exist  any  annals :  *heureuxlcs 
peuples  qui  n'ont  pas  dliistoire  I  *  The 
rmno  was  founded  by  the  Sueri,  409 ; 
conquered  by  Lcorigila,  686,  and  by  the 
Anbs  in  718.   It  was  subsequently  an- 


nexed to  Leon,  and  also  to  Asturias,  sad 
even  became  the  appanage  of  Juan 
Gaida,  the  son  of  Ferdinand  I.  of 
Portugal  Placed  between  contending 
parties,  their  riotim  and  their  prey  in 
turn,  devoid  of  any  great  riches,  living 
principally  amid  the  mountain  fast- 
nesses, where  their  poverty  tempted 
none,  and  their  fierceness  kept  most  at 
bay,  the  Gallegos  were  never  or  littio 
troubled  by  conquerors,  scorned  by 
the  rest  of  the  more  civilised  Span- 
iards, and  lived  under  the  rule  of  pre- 
datory sheiks*  Santiago  or  Compos- 
tella,  founded  in  the  9th  century,  when 
the  body  of  St  James  is  said  to  have 
been  miraculously  discovered  by  Bp. 
Theodomir,  became  an  important  dty, 
of  world-wide  repute,  and  frequented 
by  pilgrims  who  flocked  to  the  shrine 
of  tills  saint  Galicia  was  declared  an 
Audienda  territorial  by  Ferdinand  and 
Isabella,  and  Santiago  chosen  for  the  re- 
sidence of  the  justida  mayor.  This  im- 
portant royal  commissary  governed  the 
country  in  the  name  of  the  king.  The 
seat  of  this  authority  jras  subsequentiy 
removed  to  Orense  and  to  Corafia,  till 
the  radical  organisation  of  the  kingdom 
in  1886. 

Charad^r  of  the  Bdople;  Lamguagt^ 
DnsB^  CMtoms. — ^The  Gallegos  are  the 
Boeotians  or  Auveignats  of  Spain  ;  they 
are  a  tall,  musctdar  race,  hardy,  li^ 
borious  when  their  interest  is  at  stake, 
but  otherwise  indolent  and  dirty.  They 
are  very  honest,  and  may  be  depended 
upon.  They  supply  all  Spain  with  ser^ 
vants,  momtde  eordtl^  cabbies,  flunkeys, 
(locayos),  marmitons,  agttadcres  (water- 
carriers),  and  all  oflBces  of  beasts  of 
burden,  and  much  exposed  to  kicks, 
puntapiea,  liveries,  and  other  signs  of 
servitude  and  degradation,  whidi  the 
proud  Castellanoa,  independent  Yason- 


146 


GALIOIA. 


enoe%  and  fitry  Andalnces  despiae^  and 
leaTB  to  this  more  hmnble  noe ;  fonder 
dflo  of  lacie^  of  <  agoinaldoe  'and  saTinga, 
which  after  three  or  four  jears'  ixiU  (to 
them)  in  Madridt  Seyille,  and  other  hu^ 
dtieiy  they  earry  back  to  their  damp, 
dirty  mountain  hoTela  and  aeeliided  nd- 
leyi,  where  they  reaUae  their  constant 
dream  to  own  land  IJInemrt^),  howerer 
small  a  patch,  however  nnprodnctlTe 
the  soil  may  b^  and  the  borono  (millet) 
bread,  darker  and  harder  than  the 
snow-white  golden-erosted  '  pain  de  la 
senritnde'  of  Osstilian  'grsndes.' 

Love  of  home,  ta  Htrrot  sickens  the 
emigrant  Qallego  a  year  or  two  after  he 
haa  quitted  it,  even  if  he  haa  reached  the 
highest  station  in  flonkeyism,  when  the 
fomes  of  his  grandeur,  the  gutter  of  the 
gold-laced  hat  and  coat,  are  dispdled 
from  his  eyea,  which  aee  now  diatinctly, 
and  not  withont  a  tear,  in  the  camera 
o§ema  of  the  heart,  tiie  little  white 
chosa  under  the  old,  well-known  cheat- 
nut,  hy  the  laughing  rill  on  the  green 
alopea ;  and  when  the  noiae  of  the  heavy 
coach-wheela  and  the  hum  of  the  corte 
are  no  longer  loud  enou^  to  drown  in 
hia  ear  the  diacordant  tune  of  thegaita, 
the  rough  deep  aoprano  voice  of  hia 
Maruaifia,  the  Bollow  barking  of  hia 
peiTU,  all  calling  to  him,  and  aweet  aa 
muaic  to  hia  lonely  heart  In  the  aum- 
mer,  at  harveat-time,  flocka  of  sturdy 
Chdlegos  spread  over  the  oom-teeming 
idains  of  Castile  and  northern  Portugal, 
armed  with  a  abort  bos  (aiokle),  like 
the  Iriah  in  England.  The  reaf^ 
once  done  for  the  indolent  Caatilian 
labourer,  who  wanta  anna  only  beoauae 
he  will  not  employ  them,  they  return 
gladly  to  their  free  hilla  and  homea. 
The  women  meanwhile  have  not  been 
idle^  and  when  the  nieea  (diataff)  reata, 
the  field  ia  ploughed,  maize  and  potatoea 
sown,  etc.  The  Oallegoe  make  good 
sddiera,  brave^  patient,  and  eaaily 
managed.   .  The   dark   aide   of   their 


character  *  ia  formed  by  a  auspicious 
mood,  jealouay  and  envy,  love  of  goadp 
and  meddling,  avarice  and  ingratitude. 
Their  lamgnagt  ia  a  patoia  between  Old 
Caatilian  and  Portugueae,  and  their 
ludicroua  pronounciati<m  of  the  Spaniah, 
not  leaa  ^an  their  proverbial  nofse^ 
often  cunningly  put  on,  haa  made  them 
the  lau^^iing-atock  of  the  more  cuUm 
Spaniaida.  They  use  the  i»  for  o,  the  % 
tore,  etc,  saw  aifiuritu  for aefioreto ;  and 
one  of  their  war  apeechee^  during  the 
Peninsular  war,  be^m, '  Nuautrua  dida- 
mua  4  vuautrua,  murrimua  in  il  campu 
di  j^oria  t'  '  I  have  been  treated  aa  if 
I  were  but  a  Qallego,*  aaya  the  proud 
Caatilian ;  and  in  Fray  Qerundio*a 
satirical  newapaper  on  the  conatitution 
of  Spain,  publiahed  aome  yeara  ago,  the 
first  article  ran  thus :  '  All  thoae  who 
are  bom  in  Spain  are  Spaniarda,  and 
the  Oallegoe  beaidea.' 

Their  cuatoma  are  plain,  patriarchal ; 
they  are  given  entirely  to  rearing  fine 
cattle  and  cultivating  their  too-much- 
divided  propertiea.  Pilgrimagea  are 
atiU  the  fiiahion  here  and  Uiere,  more  aa 
pretexta  for  jollification  than  devout 
ezcuraiona  (though  the  natives  are  moat 
pioua  and  superatitous),  and  the  Bo- 
merias  are  now  but  village  fieataa,  when 
the  alow,  grave,  antique  mufierra  ia 
performed,  the  couples  dancing  back  to 
back  to  the  tune  of  the  bagpipea,  when 
the  heady  winea  of  H^  country  are 
abaorbed  in  prodigioua  quantities^  and 
thoae  of  each  pueblo  loudly  proclaim  ita 
auperiority  over  the  othcn :  '  Viva 
BriaOua  1*  *  Kn,  maa  viva  AmU  1"  Viva 
Oatoira  t '— diacuaaiona  which  uaually 
end  and  are  aettled  by  the  introduction 
of  'porroa,'  a  aort  of  ahillelab,  and 
other  aucUike  atriking  aigumenta  ad 
hotninttfi. 

The  dreaaia  aombre,  and  auited  to  the 
rainy,  damp  climate.  The  men  wear 
abort  light-brown  doth  jacketa,  knee- 
bveeohea  of  the  aame  stuS^  and  polainaa 


QALIOIA* 


147 


.  X  doth  guten,  either  of  black  or  light 
brown  doth,  for  whidi  woollen  itt^- 
ingareiometimesmbetitated  in  summer. 
A  donble-breMted  wdstcoftt  of  the  same 
odour  and  material,  with  a  few  rows  of 
brasi  bnttona,  enliTens  the  monotonoiu 
ooetnme;  wooden  shoee,  the  Frendi 
nboiif  madrwtkUf  are  used  by  the 
peasants.  The  head-gear  conaisti  of  a 
pdnted  doth  or  rdvet  cap  tamed  np 
at  the  aidea,  and  very  like  thoae  worn 
in  the  tfane  of  Louis  XL  of  France.  The 
drees  of  the  women  arestill  plainer ;  on 
working  days  they  are  dad  in  white  or 
striped  linen,  thrown  over  their  heads 
for  mantillas,  and  dark  tayat ;  bat  their 
dress,  as  well  as  that  of  the  men,  is  most 
pictnresqoe  and  handso^pe,  when  worn 
by  the  wedthiest  &rmers  on  great  holi- 
days, marriage-danoes,  eta 

In  some  of  the  Talleys  goitre,  paperas 
or  hudo,  and  its  accompaniment,  cretin- 
ism, are  found.    This  awfol  and  disgust- 
ing infinnity  seems  to  be  peculiar  to 
erery  hilly  country,  Switserland,  Savoy, 
the  Fyreneea  (French  and  Spanish),  the 
Ariige,  Andes,  N.  Navarre,  N.  Basque 
Prorinoes,  Asturias,  and  Galida.    The 
eanses  of  goitre,  which  produces  cretins 
— those  bastardised,  raohital  beings,  a 
degree  lower  in  the  scale  of  the  human 
raoe^  whom  we  always  find  side  by  side 
with  healthy,  luxuriant,  proud-soaring 
trees  and  v^tation — have  never  been 
ascertained.     Those  afflicted  with  this 
hypertrophy  of  the  gland  are  known  to 
inhabit  flat  and  low  districts,  40  ft  to 
70  ft  only  above  the  levd  of  the  sea 
(ElboBuf;  Dax,  S.  of  France),  as  well  as 
the  highest  pUteanz  of  hilly  districts, 
in  the  ventilated,  opened  Kanrienne, 
Le  Yalais,  and  Lomba^y ;  among  people 
who  live  wdl,  and  with  comforts  around 
them ;  and  also  in  countries  where  snow 
never  faUs,  such  as  parts  of  Africa, 
Sumatra,  etc.     In  reply  to  those  who 
have  stated  that  they  are  ezdudvdy 
met  in  countries  whsns  anow  and  ^aders 


abound,  it  has  been  urged  that  caaea 
of  goitre  are  totally  unknown  in  the 
highest  vaUeys  of  the  Alps,  Norway, 
Sweden,  eta  Dr.  Grange  is  of  opinion 
that  Uie  soil  of  oountries  where  goitre 
prevails  is  formed  of  magnesian  rocks^ 
or  containa  dolomite  and  sulphate  of 
lime  and  magneaia.  D.  Moretin  derives 
the  malady  ftom  qertain  organic  sub> 
stances  found  in  some  waters ;  D.  Chatin 
ascribes  it  entirdy  to  the  absence  of 
iodine  in  the  soil,  waters,  or  air  of  dis- 
tricts where  goitre  is  oommon,  and 
iodine  preparations  invariably  cure  or 
mitigate  the  goitre  by  absorption ;  yet 
bread,  v^tables^  and  moat,  all  contain 
iodiae,  etc.  In  Galicia  and  Navarre, 
the  cretins,  who  do  not  however  sbound, 
are  looked  upon  with  pity  and  disgust, 
but  sddom  succoured. 

The  exemptions  from  the  army  on 
account  of  goitre  and  other  glandular 
aflections  in  this  kingdom  exceed  by  far 
those  in  other  provinces,  vis. — 


CoruBa  . 
Oreoae    . 
PooteTcdnt 
Logo 


9S 

37 
III 

66 


Total .  t49 

The  total  number  in  the  forty-nine 
provinces  amounting  to  805,  of  which 
Asturias  comes  in  for  818,  and  OataluAa 
nearly  the  rest 

Mineral  Springs. — ^Although  not  so 
rich  as  Astnriss,  yet  this  |vovince  poa- 
sessea  severd  mineral  springs  most 
abundant  and  effident,  which,  were  they 
properly  nMuiaged,  would  be  an  import- 
ant source  of  prosperity  to  the  province. 
The  saline  spring  of  Camondes  de  Bro- 
garin,  the  hot  waters  of  Gddss  de  Beyes, 
Cddss  de  Cundes^  Orense,  liugo^  Cor- 
tegada,  eta,  are  excdlent.  The  prind- 
pal  are,  Arte^o,  near  Oomfia,  very  like 
those  of  riombi^res,  St  Gervais  (Savoy), 
Baden  (Austria),  eta,  and  the  sulphu- 
reous spring  of  Carballa,  near  CoffnAa ; 


148 


GALIOIA. 


tomperatare^  24  to  84  oentigrades.    For 
detfdls,  tee  Oeneral  Information, 

Agrioultiire,  Mines,  Trade,  etc 
—What  little  is  prodnoed  is  consumed 
on  the  spot,  and  trade,  without  excess 
of  prodaction,  and  absence  of  wants  and 
capital,  mnst  necessarily  be  an  idle 
word.  Tet  th^  ports  are  secure^  nnme- 
roQs,  and  admirably  sitnated  for  com- 
merce. Yivero,  Riradeo,  and  Ferrol, 
on  the  Bay  of  Biscay,  an  sheltered  and 
deep-bottomed.  The  Bay  of  Vigo  is 
among  the  finest  in  the  world ;  Corufia 
is  perfectly  placed,  of  easy  access  ;  Ca- 
mariflss,  oneof  the  most  secnra  in  Spain ; 
and  Comnbion,  Noya,  Mnros,  etc,  aro 
all  excellent.  The  soil  is  rich  and 
generally  well  cnltirated,  the  products 
of  the  land  Taried  ;  thus,  fine  com  is 
reaped  in  the  Vegas  of  Orense,  Mon- 
terey, and  the  banks  of  the  Ulla. 
Oranges,  the  citron,  maize,  and  flax 
grow  plentifully  about  Redasdillo,  Tuy, 
and  Rosamonds.  Hemp,  flax,  oate, 
chestnuts,  abound  near  and  about  Mon- 
dohedo,  Lugo^  and  Betanzos.  The 
oliye  is  also  met  here  and  there,  and 
the  wines  grown  in  the  districts  of 
Orense,  Yigo,  Amandi,  Yaldeorras,  etc., 
equal  and  would  surpass  those  produced 
in  Portugal,  were  more  pains  taken  in 
the  •laboraeUm,  There  are  excellent 
pasture-lands  about  the  Ulla  and  hilly 
districts  ;  goats,  sheep,  and  a  small 
hardy  breed  of  cows,  are  reared  with 
skill,  and  sent  in  laige  quantities  to  the 
Spanish  ports  and  London.  The  mines, 
those  at  least  that  hare  becoi  worked, 
are  insignificant ;  copper,  *  iron,  and 
tin,  are  nerertheless  said  to  exist  in 
vast  proportions.  There  aro  no  fabrics 
saye  a  crystal-manufacture  at  CoruAa, 
and  linen  at  YiTcro  and  Tuy.  The 
hills  produce  excellent  timber  for  ship- 
ping and  building.  Tlie  bacon  is  deli- 
cious, and  ^tBayana  hams  (near  Yigo) 
are  celebrated,  and  not  to  be  confounded 
with  those  of  French  Bayonne.  Those 
of  Candelas  are  equally  good. 


Oeneral  Desoription. — The  dtiet 
are  dcToid  of  interest,  if  we  except  Sant- 
iago, the  greatest  pilgrimage  centra  in 
medieTal  times,  and  interesting  for 
its  churches,  etc,  and  the  unrijalled 
Bay  of  Yigo  and  scenery  around.  The 
botany  is  worthy  of  study,  and  possesses 
great  variety,  owing  to  the  difference  of 
temperature.  There  is  capital  trout  and 
salmon  fishing,  and  wolres,  boan,  and 
caza  manor  are  met  with  in  the  hills. 
The  mountain  scenery  is  Swiss-like,  but 
tamer,  and  less  varied  in  aspect.  The 
climate  is  damp,  rainy,  and  very  cold 
in  winter,  when  the  mountain-passes 
and  tracks  are  impracticable.  The 
roads,  few  in  number,  are  not  well  kept, 
and  the  mountaineera  often  prefer  the 
beaten  tracks  ($endero8\  whi(^  are  both 
softer  to  their  own  and  their  horses' 
feet,  and  conaidereblyshorten  distances. 
Excursionists  will  find  great  hospitality 
among  the  simple-hearted  cheerful 
highlanders,  and  the  sturdy,  sure- 
footed, long-maned  jaau  gaUega 
(hacks)  are  excellent  for  expeditions 
in  the  billy  districts.  The  best  period 
for  visiting  Galicia  is  from  the  end  of 
April  to  the  middle  of  September.  The 
routes  we  suggest  are  aa  follows,  and 
have  been  chosen  with  a  view  to  com- 
bine mountain  scenery,  fishing,  and 
city  sight-seeing : — 
Loon  to  YQlafnuica  del 


Vierxo,  dil. 
Ponferrada,  diL 
La  Baftem,  r. 
Lugo  de  CastaBeda,  r. 
Monterey,  dil. 
Orense,  diL 
Rivadavia,  r. 
Tuy,  r. 
Vigo,  diL 


PonteTedra^  diL 

Santiago,  diL 

CoruAa,  dil. 

FeiTol,  %.  or  r. 

Betanxot,  diL 
Or,  Lugo,  diL 
Cangns  de  Tineo,  r. 

MondoAedo,  dil. 

Rivadco,  diL  r. 

Ovicdo,  diL 

The  Lago  de  Castafioda,  Pucnte  Son 
Domingo  de  Flores,  the  Up])cr  and 
Lower  Cabreras,  etc.,  will  gratify  the 
lover  of  scenery.  The  trout-rivers  are : 
— ^The  Tiibia,  Lodra,  between  Ferrol 
and  MondoAedo;  the  Ulla  and  its  tribu- 
taries, Furclos,  Bfero,  etc.,  between  Lugo 
and  Santiago  ;  the  Mifio,  Tambre.  The 
Sierra  Candan  abounds  in  wolves. 


U9 


GIBRALTAR. 


Ifingluh  aeftport  and  fortress ;  Ut 
86'  (T  80*  N.  ;  long.  60'  21'  12*  W. 
Greenwich.  Popoktion*  17,647  (1860), 
ezclnsiTe  of  the  garrison. 

Bontas  and  ConT.— From  South- 
ampton hj  the  first-class 
steamers  dT  Peninsolar  and 
Oriental  Steam  Navigation  Company. 
Agents  at  home :— Xondofi,  122  Leaden- 
hall  Street,  E.O. ;  address  to  secretary  of 
company.  Southampton,  "hit,  Jing^edne, 
superintendent,  Oriental  Place.  Lwer- 
jfool,  Fletcher  k  Parr,  28  Castle  Street 
Agents  abroad  :  — At' C!ttto,  A.  de 
Znlueta  (see  Oadist);  Oibraltar,  Mr 
W.  H.  Smith;  LUbon,  A.  Yanxel. 
ler;  MaroeiUoo,  K  Gower  and  Co.; 
Fario,  Pritohard^  and  Mormeron. 
DitUmot,  1151  m.  ;  time,  6  days  (121 
hrs.) ;  fares,  Ist  cL  £18 ;  children 
three  years  and  nnder,  £7  ;  2d.  cL,  and 
passengeni' •serrants,  £0;  one  chOd 
nnder  three,  if  with  parent,  free.  Lug- 
^o^^First-dass  passengers  are  allowed 
886  Ihs.  of  personal  Inggage  free  of 
freight,  and  children  oyer  three  and 
under  ten,  and  senrants,  168  lbs.  each. 
A  passenger  taking  a  whole  cabin  is 
allowed  44  cwt. ;  a  married  oouple  pay- 
ing for  reserred  accommodation,  9  cwt. 
All  baggage  mnst  be  shipped  not  later 
than  noon  on  the  day  proviouM  to  sail- 
ing except  carpet-bags  or  hat-bozea. 

Carriages  on  four  wheels,  £12;  on 
two  wheds,  £9.  A  horse,  exdnsiTe  of 
fodder,  attendance,  etc,  £12 ;  a  dog; 
ezdosiTe  of  food  and  attendance,  £1. 
ConTeyance  of  small  parcels  to  Gibral- 
tar, or  vice  vend,  6e.  for  the  first  foot, 
and  Is.  6d.  for  every  foot  after  the  first 
The  above  rates  of  passage-money  in- 
dnde  table,  wine,  steward's  fee%  etc, 
for  fifflt-dass  passengers. 

Leave  Southampton,  4th,  12th,  20th, 
tad  29th  of  every  month*  at  1  r.M.    If 


on  Sundays  at  9  A.M.  A  doctor  on 
board,  and  divine  servi<^  on  Sundays; 
The  steamers  do  not  touch  atTigo,  as 
they  used  to  do ;  but  proceed  direct  to 
Gilmltar,  where  they  remain  from  6  to 
12  hrs.,  then  leave  for  Malta,  etc 

Deoaription  of  Soa-Faotaffe, — By  this 
mode  of  reaching  Spain,  a  good  deal 
of  trouble  and  expense  is  avoided,  and, 
if  undertaken  in  fair  weather,  the  voyage 
is,  on  the  whole,  very  pleasant     Two 
days  after  leaving  the  port  we  enter 
'Biscay's  troubled  waters.'    The  first 
land  made  is  ihe  N.  W.  coast  of  Spain, 
Gape  Finisterre,   after  Oape   OrU^gaL 
The  coast  of  Portugal  ia  now  descried, 
and,  wind  and  weather  permitting^  we 
pass  within  a  few  cable-lengths  of  Cape 
St  Vincent    A  bold,  rocky  headland 
gives  the  Cape  a  very  picturesque  ap- 
pearance, enhanced  by  the  deep  red 
colour  oontrasting  with  the  green  of  the 
sea.    A  huge  mass  of  rock,  detached 
in  front  of  the  headland,  adds  to  the 
tableau,  the  background  of  which  is 
formed  by  the   noble   range   of  the 
Montchique  mountains.    A  li^thouse 
with  a  rotary  light  rises  on  one  side, 
and  a  romantic  monastery  on  the  cliff. 
Cape  St  Vincent  was  the  Boman  '  Mons 
Sacer,'  a  name  which  a  neighbouring 
Portuguese  hamlet  (Sagres)    has  pre- 
served, which  was  reformed  in  1416,  by 
Prinoe  Henry  of  Portugal     The  Arabs 
called  the    convent  Henisata-1-gorab, 
the  Church  of  the  Crow,  from  the  re- 
ligious tradition  of  some  crows  who 
watched  the  body  of  St  Vincent,  who 
was  put  to  death  at  Valencia  in  804, 
but  removed  here  during  the  Moorish 
invasion.  •  This  cape  is  particuUrly  in- 
teresting, in  connection  with  the  battle 
fou^t  Feb.  14,  1797,    between   the 
Spanish  fleet,  under  Don  Jos^  Cordova^ 
and  Admirals  Jervis  and  Ndson,  li 


•  i 


150 


QIBRALTAB. 


whioh  fifteen  imall  English  defeated, 
after  one  diy*!  hard  fighting;  twenty- 
■eyen  laige  Spanish  ihips,  among  which 
was '  La  Sta.  Trinidad,' of  180  guns,  four 
of  the  laigest  falling  into  Jenris's  hands. 

The  steamer  ronnds  the  cape  and 
steers  S.E.  Oadis  and  the  low  flat  shores 
'  of  Andalusia  are  left  westward,  and  now 
mtmidriheSiraiUBO/OibraUar.  Pass 
off  Oape  Trafidgar;  in  front  project 
Tarifa  and  the  yellow  plains  of  the 
Salado,  famous  for  the  yiotory  won  by 
the  Christians  oyer  the  Ii^deL  A 
small  block  of  white  baQdings  and  a 
lighthonse  are  all  that  attract  the  eye 
on  land,  but  here  is  the  precise  site  of 
the  Uttle  of  Trafalgar,  Oct  21,  1805. 
Onr  readers  are  too  well  acquainted 
with  the  facts  of  this  Waterloo  of  the 
seas^  that  we  should  venture  to  recall 
them  to  their  minds. 

The  SiraiU,  the  Arab  *Gate  of  the 
Narrow  Passage'  (Bab-es-zakak),  <el 
estreoho,'  are  about  12  leagues  fh>m 
Oape  Spartel  to  Ceuta,  and  from  this 
Oape  of  Trafalgar  to  Europe  Point,  in 
Spain.  The  narrowest  point  is  at  Ta- 
rifa, about  12  m.  A  constant  current 
sets  in  from  the  Atlantic  at  the  rate  of 
2)  m.  per  hour.  Across  to  the  left  rise 
the  low  hills  of  Africa,  Tangier  being 
almost  risible  to  the  naked  eye.  Geo- 
l(^gista^  who  in  their  conjectures  go  so 
fitf  as  to  admitthepossibiUtyof  America 
and  Europe  once  forming  one  vast  con- 
tinent, find  it  an  easy  matter  to  connect 
Europe  with  Africa  by  a  supposed  isth- 
mus, which  must,  they  say,  hare  existed 
about  this  point  ^ey  i^ove  this  by 
the  Tariations  of  soundings,  by  the  Phoe- 
nician tradition  of  a  csnal  which  was 
aU  between  the  two  oontinents,  and 
orer  which  a  bridge  was  built,  the  canal 
gradually  widening;  and  b7  ^ifgiiig 
that  the  geolof^cal  composition  of  several 
rocks  and  headlands  (that  of  Gibrsltar 
indnded)  on  the  Spanish  portion,  be- 
kaig^exdiisively  to  the  K.  African  for* 


mation,  differing  in  this  and  other  re* 
spects  frt>m  the  surrounding  Spanish 
continent^  etc  .  Now  we  soon  run  dose 
in  under  Spanidi  land.  Sura  being  seen 
away  on  the  hill-top,  and  the  fort  and 
lighthouse  of  Tarifa  (see  CadtM)  dose 
to  us.  Gradually  steering  westward, 
we  enter  into  stiller  waters ;  and  before 
us  rises  mijestically,  grand,  all-mighty^ 
brirtling  with  2000  cannon,  the  grey 
rock  on  which  proudly  waves  the  red 
flag  of  England.  Algedras  is  on  our 
le^  Ssa  Boque  alittle  to  the  W„  and 
the  chorions  range  of  Spanish  hiUs  in 
the  distant  background.  For  details  of 
boat-fares,  eta,  see  lower. 

From  Liverpool,  by  Bums  k  Maol  vtf's 
fiist  and  handsome  screw-steamers,  brig- 
rigged,  1000  tons,  800  hone-power, 
several  times  a-month ;  6  days'  passsge. 
Fare,  £10,  including  provisions. 

From  London,  Hall  k  Go's,  steamers 
every  week  (see  Bills). 

Firom  MalMa.— >By  had,  riding  ctther  bj 
Cunrabooda, 6 leagues;  ElBoi|o^ 
s;  Ronda,  3 ss  II ;  whenoe  by  louta 
deacribed  Grmmtda,  or  asborterway, 
and  one  we  can  recommmd,  aafii^ 
lowi:—  Leagues. 

Malaga  to  CSmniana  .    i 

Tocremolinoa    .       .       .       .    i 
Arroyo  de  bi  Mid  .       .    t 

BemJufiedinn    .       .       .       .    i 
Fnengirola  .       .    t 

MarbeUa  .  (long)    4 

Venta  de  QuiBooea  .       .       .    i 
VentaCaaasol  .       .       .    i| 

Estepona 4 

Venta  de  bi  Tone  ,  .  .  i| 
Venta  debSabiniUa  .  .  | 
Venta  de  Rio  Guadaro    .  | 

San  Roque,  .  .  .  .  8| 
GibnJtar         ....    1 

Honeaaie  found  at  MtrBllas(MahgaX  Tbe 
Journey  b  paid  U  and  imck,  bonea  and  men. 
One  guide  b  luflicient  wben  tbcre  are  no 
bulies  or  coniiderable  kiggage  in  tbe  caae  (tug- 
gage  can  be  moetly  acnt  by  aea  to  Gibraltar, 
and  addrcaaed  to  the  botd).  Guides  may  ba 
obtained  at  tbe  Hotd  de  la  Abuneda,  wbo  speak 
Emliab,  and  undentand  French ;  charge,  4ar. » 


OIBEALTJLll— KALAdj 


:^^1^ 


IB— Bmnra. 


on*.  Sidrchuncnbapneondtehdi^i 
i*kB&li(miB,b«aiitqiiiMiei*f*,  fh 
>  *  riwt  rat  br  Cain.  Uood*.  Oi<».  f  H 
•0^  ud  (ha  fcOowwc  tba  HBa  imc,  Ml  iir^wtffAi 

iBiitBDlHBiitM(lMCiaaiMaaB«d«C«i     ~ 

■  babe  A*  liu  of 


it  h  (^  dan  ka<'tas 
.  and  drinii(  u  fitr  ■■ 
jAnvre  d«  la  Uid,  when  •■  nda  Iha  lima 
"Dlbefixihipd,  and  morad  at  La  Tnoignla 


.      a  amg.    Ai  aaa  _,., , 

1      Sins  nancaandHcriadtsOaiiiliMiWM-  , 
I       dnMn)0(lMq<iiMlikwwa*aartlMMadi> 


I  tin  Cnim  and  Ilia  Otm-A^OtUmt^-t.  FciRliheCndalwMtw 
w  tha  Snal  of  tbt  Rmbmi*,  «td  Sm  I7  a  Tana  of  (wh  naai^  and  1  '  j 
H«nkU  called  bacaBafron  In    |i|b(  br  Vcpu  da  la  lla,  Baupoo*  «« 


.      _      .      J  MoQM  and  pBcns  d. 

Mtjai^mdi  CHtilktdaCaladdUanll.)!^ 

'  Caa  riMfM  «  CHIflki  dd  Ugn  at  ts 


I  nd  Caa  riwta  <■•  CaalilL 
I  A.M.  Obana  IbK  and  a 
i.  Tana  da  la*  Udtm*.  whi> 


■asfUdm.  Thw  ar^P* 
mm™  ,  II  id  <ri(b  Dadttlsa^  naadr  talc* 
9f  aw,  bold  daadi,  aad  Rcau  «f  UnHUiad. 


jr«rMl.(w)Hndw) 

aoidM  araafa  -(aidtu  ;  po|i 

"'"         It  M  ailialUi  Ibr  hi  SB- 


«*lb  afTaBRHi  flitter  «■  Ibt  «I 


Tla  tidr  ittk  Ion  bu  t>a  dacaat 

-     ~  -  labal  and  U  Canaa.    Doa 

<Calla  da  Paotalaoa  Ha.  4,) 


b..«if7 

atJlal.Sa:.^~^to 
tWMi'CibnItu  and 


thb  and  Eucpoaa.* 
gftlMHanhal-L    FanlihaCi 


Raoant],  H.  acrardinc  to  tba  iiUBrf  al 
th«  drr  vrittcB  bjr  Aba  Bckr^IdirW  AlfaiaU, 
andiwbat  Iba-AI-IUdub  itatca,  h  coatdMd  (■ 


Ih»  kaactr  aanUarX     Eatapvai,   • 


saannacfa  GOnltH  tally.  (TVfaii 
1  &«■>  BMapoH  (r  Raod^  wUcb  Kb  r 
_  a  aavm  a  haiy  diuricc,  aad  la  N.W. 
anatbti  (a  Gaocm.)  CattiDa  dc  h>  Sabailliia 
«>U  ba  ndwl  at  11  A.H.  Fan]  Aa  Oi^kn 
(Flnin  Bartmulut  if  bM  noOcB  by  taa. 
Than  ia  a  fcfiy-baat.  a  few  yatdi  bnbar,  fnB 


'•«^4 

hflic    Ridvi  Bar  tava  ai 
Saa  Roqiie.    £aa  Jtafar.— 


Fbua. 

indiffcn 

«.  <awni.»<:dledrn.« 

miugs 

dcdicucd  lo  Su  Roque 

aiaadtforliJtolltm' 

which  c 

roH,  ud  imccal  itumf 

Cibniiv.    At  ibe  guta.  putpo 

From  Ualaga.   Bj  i^pitni 

]ltcL,£l;  2dcl.,  12&  ;  od( 
to7hn.  A  pleuant  trip. 
Comp.  de  N«r.  &  Yap.  flar. 
■teamen  leave  Malaga  on 
and  36th  of  every  montli,  i 
iDgl  fares,  1st  cl.,  90r. ;  2 
8d  cL,  40r. ;  snd  eiceUeul 
Spaniali  ateamera  aboat  onci 

From  Litbm,  33  to  SS 
Ftenoh  NaiaJTe  Company 
Mnd  itcunicn  from  IJhIwii  t 
becauao  Hulogu,  next  ituti 
all  proceeda  from  Gibralt 
Enftliah  ateamera  occaaionail 

fnita  or  to  ifanetlUt,  3 
by  the  '  Longuedoc, '  or  g 
(which  lee),  whence  to  Man 

From  and  to  Morocco  i 
See  Jforotai. 

It  may  be  said  generaUy 
■re  iteamen  conatontly  plyj 
thit  and  the  principal  pc 
United  Eingdoici,  France, 
Spain,  Italy,  Malta,  Egypt. 

To  at  from  Madeira — ' 
and  take  there 
or  by  the  Bntdl  pocket,  w 
Bouthampton  for  Ijabon  ■ 
each  month  ;  fare,  £10.  O 
flivt  company  :  Idird,  Fli 
Co.,  (genta.     See  MaiUira. 

HaTBUikh.— See  OadU. 

GIBRALTAB. 

Pt^lation,— 19,000,  eicl 

troopa  (5000  in  time  of  peac 

Eat«U.— 1.    Clab  Houw. 


QIBRAtTAB. 


163 


w  -  .     —  - 

•  kw-  raloi  dn  the  rock.  Ko  foreigiier 
ein  redde  withoat  his  oonsiil  or  a  hoiise- 
holder  becomiiig  his  seenritj.  Pennits 
o€  rendence  are  gmnted  by  the  police- 
magistrate  for  tra,  fifteen,  and  twenty 
dayt ;  militiry  oflioers  een  introdnce  a 
•tnnger  for  thirty  days.  The  gates  are 
•hut  at  sonset,  and  6  to  16  min.  after 
the  enrening'gnn  has  been  fired. 

Hours  of  ifun^ire  (minimom  time), 
when  the  gates  are  opened  and  closed. 
Optm^  in  the  fnomtit^,  Jan.,  6.16  to 
CIO ;  Feb.,  6.10  to  6.40  ;  March,  6.40 
to  6;  Aprfl,  6  to  4.16;  May,  4.16  to 
a.46;  June,  8.46  to  8.60;  Jnly,.8.60 
to  4.10 ;  Aug.,  4.10  to  4.40  ;  Sept,  4.40 
to  6.6 ;  Oct,  6.6  to  6.80 ;  Nor.,  6.80 
to  6 ;  Dec,  6  to  6.16. 

Ewmmg  Ghin.—Jm,t  6.86  to  6 ;  Feb., 
6.6  to  6.80;  March,  6.86  to  6.66; 
April,  7  to  7.20;  May,  7.26  to  7.60; 
Jane, 7.66 toS;  Jnly,  8to7.40  ;  Aug., 
7.86  to  7.6 ;  Sept,  6.66  to  6.20 ;  Oct, 
6.10  to'6.40 ;  Nor.,  6.86  to  6.20 ;  Dec, 
6.20  to  6.86. 

The  second  evening  gnn  is  fired  from 
1st  April  to  30th  September  at  0  o'clock, 
and  from  1st  October  to  81st  March  at 
a.80. 

Fost-oflBoe,  Main  Street ;  the  general 
oreriand  mail  and  Algedras  estafette 
are  reoetred  and  despatched  daily. 

AH  letten  for  Spain  must  be  prepaid 
by  SpmUA  stampc  Fre-payment  of 
letten  to  France  and  Belgium,  vid 
Madrid,  is  optional ;  but  letters  for- 
warded through  Spain  to  other  parts  of 
the  Continent  are  conreyed  by  the 
Spanish  post-office  free  of  charge  A 
closed  mail  between  Spain  and  the 
United  Kingdom  is  received  end  de- 
spatched daUy,  vid  Madrid,  for  Idien 
VeeiaUifaddresiedhjVmTonin.  Post- 
•go  must  be  prepaid  ;  single  rat^  6d. 
for  letters  under  4  <><•  Overland  post 
teaches  England  in  about  six  days. 

The  general  mail  is  closed  at  a  quarter 
before  11  a.m,     A  letter  takes :— to 


London,  6  days ;  to  Madrid,  Sdayi;  to 
Parisi  4  days. 

Packet  Maik.— Homeward-bound 
mail-packets  from  Southampton  may 
be  expected  at  Gibraltar  about  the  6th, 
18th,  20th,  and  27th  of  each  month. 
Letters  for  England,  if  not  prepaid,  are 
forwarded  with  an  additional  rate  of  6d. 
beyond  the  ordinary  postsge ;  sin^ 
rate^.6d.  for  a  letter  under  an  ounce. 
Ship  mails  for  England,  as  well  as  ports 
of  Spain,  Portu^  and  France,  are 
made  up  at  post-oAoe,  and  sent  on 
every  eligible  occasion,  and  despatched 
by  merchant  steamers.  Letters  to  all 
foreign  ports  must  be  prepaid.  Mails 
to  Tangier  and  Barbaiy  ports  by  every 
opportunity. 

Telegraph.— Telegramscanbesentby 
messenger  from  Gibraltar  to  San  Boque, 
and  hence  to  all  parts  of  the  Continent 

Oarriages,  Gabs,  etc— Horses  to  hire 
at  Morera's^  tobacconist,  opposite  Grif- 
fith's Hotel,  or  at  Montegrifib*^  opposite 
the  Spanish  Pavilion  ;  horses  for  hunt- 
ings riding,  or  travelling,  guides,  ladies* 
saddles,  etc,  2  dole,  a  whole  day,  less 
if  per  week  or  month.  There  is  no 
tariff  for  cabc  Good  hired  carriages  of 
all  descriptions  can  Be  had,  from  heavy 
clarences  to  jaunting-cars  and  hansoms. 
Avoid  the  Spanish  calesa,  fit  only  to 
crack  one's  bones  to  pieces.  From  hotel 
to  port  2s.  is  the  customary  charge 


Boats,  Tarilt 


r. 


To  Bay  and  bade,  not  CTCfrding 

hatfim^ioar       ....  6 

ETery  extn  half-hour                   .  3 

To  Ragged  Scair  Stain  .  6 
New  Mole  .9 
If  iiM»«  than  two  penoiu,  jr.  for 

3 


a  I 

a  I 

3  oi 

I  oh 


Ooneral  Desoxiption.— This  lamous 
fortress  (the  Calpe  of  the  ancients)  is 
situated  on  the  W.  side  of  a  lofty  pro- 
monotry  or  rook,  which  projects  into 
the  sea 'in  a  sontheriy  dinction,  some 
8  miles,  being  one-half  to  three-qoar- 


154 


OIBRALTAB. 


ters  of  a  mfle  in  width.  The  town 
lies  on  the  western  slopes  of  the  rocky 
mountain,  the  highest  portions  of 
which  (1430  ft.),  though  apparently 
naked,  are,  on  closer  sorTey*  found  to 
he  clothed  with  African  vegetation. 
What^  however,  is  most  remarkable  is, 
that  this  rock,  outwardly  so  harmless 
in  appearance,  is  all  undermined  and 
tunnelled  with  wonderful  ingenuity 
and  at  enormous  expense,  and  now  and 
then,  behind  a  palmito,  or  between  two 
prickly  pears,  the  yawning  mouth  of  a 
cannon  will  just  peep  out,  like  a  bull- 
dog at  bay.  The  £.  and  S.  sides  are 
very  rugged,  and  almost  perpendicular, 
and  their  being  fortified  is  quite  a 
display  of  defiance,  as  they  are  totally 
inaccessible.  Its  northern  side,  front- 
ing the  narrow  isthmus  which  connects 
it  with  Spain,  is  precipitous^  and  not 
leas  accessible ;  and  perhaps  the  only 
one  by  which  an  army  could  begin  the 
assanlC  The  circumference  is  6  miles, 
the  length,  N.  to  &,  about  8. 

The  W.  side,  fiudng  the  sea,  is  ap- 
parently the  weakest^  and  the  portion 
to  right  of  Begged  Staff  Stairs,  and  all 
about  Tumper^s  Battery,  was  certainly 
not  as  strongly  'fortified  as  the  rest 
before  the  new  works  were  begun,  and 
here  the  Bn^ish  landed  under  Admiral 
Booke.  One  of  the  extreme  ends  of 
the  rock,  fiudng  the  sea,  is  Buropa 
Point,  where  a  l^thouse  and  batteries 
hare  been  erected;  the  other,  on  the 
opposite  extremity,  is  called  Punta  de 
EqMfia.  The  neutral  gromd  is  the 
strip  of  land  dividing  the  rock  from 
the  mainland,  the  portion  belonging  to 
Bn^^d  being  all  undermined;  it  could 
also  be  instantly  submerged.  A  little 
beyond  is  the  Ciimpo  de  Gibraltar,  and 
the  lines  (lineas)  where  the  Spanish 
sentiy,  the  bumt-up,  black-eyed,  thin, 
ill-fed,  but  picturesque  chfld  of  the  sun 
mounts  lazily  guard  side  by  side  with 
the  fair-haired,  blue-eyed,  and  prosaic 


Mn  of  fog  and  rain.  The  predpi* 
tons  sides  of  the  grey  limestone  rock 
are  verdant  in  spring  and  autumn,  and 
the  scattered  orchards  produce  excellent 
fhiit;  in  summer  they  become  tawny 
and  bare.  There  is,  at  that  season  of 
the  year,  a  want  of  circulation  of  air, 
which,  added  to  the  extreme  heat, 
scorching  Levanter,  and  absence  oif 
trees^  nuJces  Qibraltar  next  to  intoler- 
able. The  rock,  moreover,  rising  be- 
hind the  town,  reflects  the  heat»  and 
checks  the  currents  of  air. 

The  highest  point  of  the  rock  is  called 
the  Signal,  or  JSl  Haeko,  From  it  the 
panorama  is  unrivalled.  The  eye,  ttmn. 
this  esgle's  eyrie,  sweeps  over  two  sees, 
two  quarters  of  the  world,  and  what 
four  hundred  years  ago  constituted  five 
kixigdoms — ^viz.,  Grenada,  Seville,  etc. 
Beyond  the  straits  looms  the  mysterious 
verdami  (not  oruf)  Africa,  with  its  king- 
doms of  Fes,  Mequines,  Morocco,  and 
its  ports  of  Tangier  and  Ceuta—the 
Abyla  of  the  PhoBnidans. 

When  first  seen  from  the  sea,  the 
great  rock  bursts  suddenly  into  the  blue 
air,  a  height  of  1480  ft,  rising,  as  it 
were,  from  under  the  waves,  as  the  land 
about  it  is  all  flat,  low,  and  does  not 
appear  linked  to  it ;  it  rises  like  amon- 
strous  monolith,  a  fragment  of  some  * 
shattered  world  dropped  here  by  chance, 
and  not  ill*oompared,  by  a  foreign 
writer,  to  a  gigantic  granite  sphinx, 
whose  shoulders,  groins,  and  croup 
would  lie  towards  Spain,  with  the  long, 
broad,  looser  fiowing,  and  undulating 
outlines,  like  those  of  a  lion  asleep^  and 
whose  head,  somewhat  truncated,  is 
turned  towards  AfHca,  as  if  with  a 
dreamy  and  steadfast  deep  attention. 
Towards  the  W.,  in  the  distance,  we 
can  descry  the  hi^  summite  of  the  arid 
Cuervo^  the  hills  of  Ojen  and  Sonoiia ; 
to  N.  the  range  of  the  Sierra  de  Bonda; 
and  towards  the  E.,  following  the  wide 
outline  of  land  fonned  by  the  Mediter* 


GIBRALTAR. 


155 


ranean,  all  the  creekB,  mintatare  har- 
botin,  and  promontories  of  the  indented 
coast,  the  small  town  of  Estepona,  part 
of  M arbeUa,  farther  on  the  huj  peaks 
of  Sierra  Bermcya,  and  finallj,  Uending 
with  the  Inminoos  skies,  the  snowy 
heights  of  Alpigarras  and  Sierra  Ne- 
vada. At  oar  feet  lies  the  now  almost 
imperceptible  town  of  Gibraltar,  and 
jonder,  in  the  baj,  the  three-deckers  at 
anchor,  which  look  like  so  many  play- 
things, or  miniatore  ships,  whilst, 
sweeping  across  the  quiet  bine  sheet  of 
snnlit  water,  the  eye  rests  pleasantly  on 
the  terraced  gay-looking  Algeciras,  and 
to  the  ri^tSan  Boqne  and  its  cork-tree 
forest 

The  FoHifieaHom.— Apply  by  letter, 
enclosing  card,  to  the  town  mi^jor.  A 
master -gunner  conducts  the  visitor. 
Ladies^  and  parties  who  dread  fatigue, 
are  provided  with  donkeys.  The  de- 
fences of  the  rock  are  wonderfully  con- 
trived ;  the  result  of  constant  and  dose 
investigation  of  every  nook  and  comer 
liable  to  surprise.  In  the  course  of  this 
visit  we  pass  first  the  Moorish  castle 
(which  is  not  shown),  one  of  the  earliest 
Moorish  works  in  Spain,  having  been 
erected,  according  to  the  Arabic  inscrip- 
tion over  the  S.  gate,  in  726,  by  Abu 
Abul  Higez.  The  Torre  del  Homenage, 
which  is  riddled  with  shot-marks,  is 
picturesque,  with  a  fine  circular  arch. 

The  GkOIariw.— Near  this  are  the 
'galleries, '  excavated  along  the  N.  front, 
and  in  tiers.  These  contain  thirty-seven 
guns  of  different  calibre,  some  mounted 
on  stocks,  in  order  to  change  the  level 
when  required.  The  smoke  when  the 
guns  are  fired  inues  freely,  causing  no 
serious  inconvenience  to  the  gunners, 
save  when  strong  easterly  winds  prevail. 
Yisit  the  Comwallis  and  St  George's 
Hall,  the  ktter  of  which  is  60  ft  by  86 
ft  The  engineering  of  these  tunnelled 
galleries,  the  distribution  of  the  guns, 
the  lighting  up,  the  deposits  for  shot  and 


powder,  are  admirable^  though  exceed- 
ing, perhaps,  all  the  strict  requirements; 
it  is  '  le  luxe  et  la  coquetterie  de  I'im- 
prenaUe.' 

Signal  Tower,  — ^Visitors  .  are  now 
taken  to  the  Signal  Tower,  throu^  rig 
sag  roads.  On  the  way  they  are  likely 
to  meet,  or  rather  descry  in  the  distance, 
some  of  the  advanced  guard  of  the 
marauding  monkeys,  the  tenants  of  the 
rock,  who,  as  first  occupants  of  the  soil, 
have  been  always  respected  both  by 
Spaniards  and  English.  The  bravest 
come  down  from  the  tops  at  night-fall, 
and  lurk  about  the  ordiards  in  search 
of  fruit  and  stray  chickens ;  others,  more 
prudent^  keep  to  the  palmitos  and 
prickly  pear,  which  they  carry  with 
them  to  discuss  on  the  rocks.  At  the 
Signal  Tower  telescopes  and  refresh- 
ments are  provided.  From  this  point 
(the  view  from  which  has  been  alrieady 
described)  proceed  to  the  stalactite 
Gave  of  St.  Michael,  which  presents 
a  fine  sight  when  illuminated.  The 
ruins  of  the  OUara  Tower,  or  Folly, 
may  next  be  seen,  situated  on  the  8. 
point  of  the  rock,  and  which  was  built 
by  that  oflicer  to  watch  the  movements 
of  the  Spanish  fleet  at  Gadiz,  and  de- 
stroyed by  lightning  soon  after  its  com- 
pletion. The  view  it  affords  of  the  S. 
district  is  very  fine  and  extensive.  Then 
return  by  the  geranium-planted  avenues 
and  narrow  lanes  into  the  dty.  Those 
who  interest  themselves  in  military  de- 
fences may  visits  in  the  lower  portion  of 
the  rock,  the  Devil's  Tongue  Battery, 
dose  to  Land  Port,  then  following  the 
sea  or  line  wall  to  King's  Bastion,  after- 
wards by  the  gate  and  walls  built  by 
Oharles  Y.,  passing  on  to  South  Port, 
Yictoria  Biattery,  and  Orange  Bastion, 
to  the  gardens.  On  thdr  right  are  the 
Ragged  Staff  Stairs  and  Tumper's  Bat- 
tery. Ascend  Scud  HiU,  as  far  as  Wind- 
mill HilL  Yisit  the  Naval  Hospital. 
South  Barracks^  Pavilion,  eta 


156 


GIBRALTAR. 


The  Oity  is  most  nninterestiiig  md 
dnlL  It  conaifts  of  anifoim  white- 
washed huge  bsmcka,  and  low,  flat- 
roofed,  and  darkly-painted  hoases,* 
mostly  made  of  hricks,  plaster,  and 
wood,  after  an  Italian,  or  rather  no 
ftyle.  The  streets  are  narrow  and 
winding ;  the  principal  one  is  Water- 
port  Street,  which  is  lined  with  yery  in- 
different shops,  where  prices  are  higher 
than  in  England.  English  comforts, 
however,  can  be  procnred,  including 
excellent  tea,  alea^  cigars,  Engliah 
medicines,  firearms,  saddlery,  etc 

Ths  Alameda  is  the  pride  of  Gib- 
raltar, and  is  truly  charming,  being 
laid  oat  in  the  English  style,  and 
abounding  in  beautifid  geraniums  and 
bowers.  It  commands  fine  views  of 
the  straits  and  coast  of  Africa.  At  the 
entrance  is  the  drilling-ground,  where 
the  regimental  bands  play  in  the 
ereniug.  The  monuments  to  the  Duke 
of  Wellington  and  General  Elliot  are 
mean  and  tasteless.  The  Alameda 
then  becomes  the  fashionable  lounge, 
and  the  spectacle  presented  by  the 
close  contrast  of  populations  of  ex- 
treme points  of  Europe  is  quite  novel 
and  curious.  The  London  bonnet  and 
Mrs.  Brown's  hats  sre  seen  side  by  side 
with  the  mantilla  de  tiro ;  blue  eyes  and 
rosy  complexions  next  melting  black 
eyes  and  olive-dark  «u^  The  different 
mien,  toilette,  language,  and  walk  are  all 
striking.  Th^phile  Gauthier  thus  de- 
scribes the  effect  produced  on  his 
humorous  mind  by  this  scene: — *Je 
ne  puis  exprimer  la  sensation  d^sagr^- 
able  que  j'^prouvai  k  la  vue  de  la  pre- 
mie Anglaise  que  je  rencontrai,  un 
chapeau  k  voile  vert  sur  la  t^te,  mar- 
chant  comma  un  grenadier  de  la  garde, 
an  moyen  de  grands  pieds  chanss^  de 
grands  brodequins.  Ce  n'^tait  pas 
qu'elle  tat  laide^  au  oootraire,  mais 
j*^tais  aeooutum^  k  la  pureti  de  race, 
k  la  finesse  du  cheval  arabe,  I  la  grAoe 


exquise  de  d-marche,  k  la  mignonnerie 
et  k  la  gentillesse  andalouses,  et  cette 
figure  rectiligne,  au  regard  ^tonn^  k 
la  physionomie  morte,  aux  gestes  angu- 
leux,  avec,  sa  tenue  exaote  et  m^tho- 
dique^  son  parftmi  de  'cant,'  et  son 
absence  de  tout  naturel,  me  produisit 
un  effet  oomiquement  sinistre.  11  me 
sembla  que  j*Jtais  mis  tout-lHxmp  en 
presence  du  spectre  de  la  civilisation, 
mon  ennemie  mortelle.' 

There  are  no  buildings  of  particular 
interest  The  governor's  house  is  in- 
different, the  synsgogues  poorly  de- 
corated, the  English  and  Spanish 
churches  not  worth  visiting.  Religious 
toleration  rules  side  by  side  with  liberty 
of  commerce.  There  are  two  bishops, 
one  Protestant  and  the  other  Catholic 

Tourists  should  visit  the  market, 
near  Commercial  Square,  about  eight 
in  the  morning ;  not  for  the  nick- 
nacks,  mouldering  bedsteads,  worm- 
eaten  chairs  and  tables  which  are  sold, 
but  on  account  of  the  types  and  dress 
of  the  motley  crowd.  Moors,  Turks, 
Greeks,  Jews,  the  Spanish  smuggler, 
the  Catalan  Mulor,  the  red  coat  of  the 
Engliah  private,  all  mingle  together, 
bawling;  disputing,  bargaining  and 
cheating  in  their  different  tongues, 
ways^  and  gestures.  The  fish-market 
is  another  sight  not  to  be  omitted.  The 
fish  is  excellent  and  varied.  There  is 
slways  a  good  supply  of  fruit  from 
Spain  and  Morocco;  the  Tangerine 
oranges  are  exquisite. 

Th$  Bay  of  OibraUar  is  spacious, 
and  sheltered  from  the  most  dangerous 
winds.  It  is  formed  by  two  head- 
lands— Europe  Point  on  the  rock,  and 
Cabrita  In  Spain.  Two  moles  have 
been  constructed  for  the  protection 
of  ships;  the  old  one,  offering  none 
but  to  small  craft,  projects  from  the 
K.  end  of  the  town,  1100  ft  into  the 
sea.  Along  the  new  mde,  which  is  1^ 
m«  more  to  the  S.,  and  extends  700  ft 


GIBRALTAR— BAY. 


157 


oeitwardB,  line-of-baUle  Mpt  can  easily 
be  moored.  The  greatest  length  of  the 
bay  N.  to  8.  is  8  m. ;  the  width  £.  to 
W.  of  6  m.,  and  the  Idepth  in  the 
centre  exceeds  100  fkthoms,  the  tide 
rising  some  i  ft. ;  the  anchorage  is 
good,  the  bay  being  exposed  only  to 
8.W.  There  is  a  good  deal  of  trade  at 
Gibraltar,  as  it  is  a  free  port»  hampered 
with  but  few  restrictions. 

The  ralne  of  British  products  ex- 
ported to  Gibraltar  amoonts  to  abont 
£660,000.  The  rereniie  ooUeeted  in 
the  town  amounts  to  from  £80,000  to 
£40,000,  which  is  sufficient  to  defray 
the  pablic  dril  expenditore.  But 
since  a  more  liberal  system  has  been 
introduced  by  Spanish  ministers  of 
finance,  the  exports  of  British  products 
hare  declined. 

Hidofy. — ^When  the  Phoniieians  (see 
Ckdis),  in  their  bold  and  distant  nairal 
expeditions,  arrired  thus  ftf,  they  con- 
sidered this  to  be  the  end  of  the  world, 
and  called  it  Alube,  or  (according  to 
many)  Oalpe  or  Odph,  a  '  caTed  moun- 
tain.' Here'  they  erected  one  of  the 
two  PiUan  of  Hercules^  the  other  being 
that  of  Abyla,  Abel  (Geuta),  which 
rises  on  the  Airican  coast  some  S200 
fL  high.  Tarik,  the  one-eyed  Berber 
iuTader,  attacked  and  took  the  place, 
April  80,  711,  and  to  commemorate  his 
fint  Tictory  called  it  after  his  own 
name,  *Ghebal-Tarik.'  It  wis  re- 
corered  by  Gusman  el  Bueno  in  1809, 
but  surrendered  to  the  Moors  some 
yean  after.  Another  Guiman  in  1463 
disposMssed  the  Infidel,  who  nerer  re- 
coTered  it  after  that  time.  During  the 
war  of  succession,  in  1704,  when  the 
garrison  consisted  of  only  eighty  men. 
Sir  George  Rooke,  by  a  sudden  attack, 
surprised  and  obtained  an  easy  posses 
sion  of  it  Since  that  time,  and  not- 
withstanding repeated  efforts  made  by 
Spain  and  France,  and  a  siege  which 
ksted  four  years,  England  has  main- 


tained this  fortress  at  a  larish  expendi- 
ture of  gold.  Of  late  years  there  has 
been  some  idle  talk  about  restoring 
Gibraltar  to  Spain,  and,  not  better 
founded,  offers  of  compensation  from 
the  Spanish  Goremment  Gibraltar 
is  a  thorn  in  the  side  of  erery  Spaniard, 
just  as  the  possession  of  DoTer.  by  the 
French  would  be  one  to  erery  English-, 
man.  In  the  eyes  of  some  Spanish 
patriots  and  statesmen  it  is  a  *Oar- 
thago  delenda  est,'  and  they  have  en- 
dearoured  to  show  that  it  would  be  for 
the  interest  of  England  to  gire  up  this 
stronghold.  Pamphlets,  squibs,  and 
leaders  have  been  launched  on  the  sub- 
ject, armed  with  Armstrong  arguments, 
and  with  no  better  success  thjui  D'Ar- 
tolis'  floating  batteries  before  the  rock. 
In  England  Mr.  Bright,  who  was  the 
first  to  open  the  discussion,  declared  in 
Parliament  that  in  his  opinion  Gibraltar 
ought  to  be  giren  back,  and  he  drew 
es^cial  attention  to  the  expenses*  In- 
curred by  England,  which  are  upwards 
of  £200,000  annually  in  time  of  peace 
(5000  men),  exdusiTe  of  material — the 
total  outlay  baring  been  fifty  millions 
sterling  upon  its  defences.  Burke  held  a 
different  opinion  of  its  importance,  and 
referred  to  It  'as  a  post  of  power,  a  post 
of  superiority,  of  connection,  of  com- 
merce ;  one  which  makes  us  iuTaluable 
to  our  friends,  and  dreadful  to  our  ene- 
mies.' Its  importance  has  increased  as 
a  coal  depdt  since  the  propagation  of 
steam.  It  affords  also  a  conrenient 
and  secure  station  for  the  outfit  and 
repair  of  British  ships  of  war  and  mer- 
chantmen. There  are  stores  and  water- 
cisterns  which  would  supply  a  garrison 
of  160,000  men  during  two  years. 

OUmala.— Here  the  Leranter,  the 
'  tyrant  of  Gibraltar,*  rules  with  more 
power  and  intensity  than  elsewhere, 

*  Aocofdififf  to  the  last  anay  cstiiastea,  Gib> 
raltar  ficwai  for  4980  BMs,  St  a  cost  of  j(ao6.a6ai 


158 


GIBRALTAR. 


the  town  lying  opfn  to  its  inflnence. 
Its  prevalence  lasts  sometimes  for  six 
weeks,  and  even  two  months.  It  is 
peonliarly  fatal  to  children,  and  to 
advanced  stages  of  phthisis,  nervons 
constitutions,  and  generallj  where 
debility  prevails.  The  W.  wind  is  also 
termed  tiie  '  liberator.'  There  Js  an 
epidenuo  malady,  called  'Gitodtar 
fever,'  which  breiJu  ont  in  the  aatnmn, 
but  its  visitation  is  at  rare  intervals. 
According  to  local  military  doctors, 
one  of  the  causes  of  pnlmonaiy  diseases 
frequent  among  the  garrison  is  to  be 
ascribed  to  'the  peculiar  nature  of  a 
soldier's  life,  whidi  is  not  favourable, 
when  compared  to  that  of  a  civilian,  to 
the  enjoyment  of  any  exemption  from 
chest  diseases,  which  a  warm  climate 
may  be  calculated  to  afford.'  Thus 
the  soldiers,  after  drinking  and  amus- 
ing themselves  in  the  town,  which  is 
warm  and  sheltered,  hasten,  when  the 
retreat  is  sounded  at  night&ll,  to  their 
barracks,  which  are  situated  on  the 
higher  and  more  airy  parts  of  the  rock. 
The  extreme  change  of  temperature 
then  occasions  diseases  erroneously 
attributed  to  the  dimata  Mortality 
in  1862,  81*40  per  1000  of  the  perma- 
nent ehil  population ;  compare  this 
with  the  largest  mortality  in  England, 
at  Liverpool,  which  is  only  86  per  1000. 
The  state  of  drains  and  sewers  may  con- 
tribute to  this,  ss  well  as  the  bad  ven- 
tilation of  houses,  etc. 

Money  at  Oibraltar.— Spanish  money 
is  current^  but  with  alterations  in  the 
value,  thus :  the  duro  (20r.)  has  been 
divided  into  12  imaginary  reals,  each 
real  Into  16  ouartosi 

The  comparative  value  of  English 
and  Spanish  moneys  has  been  fixed  by 
proolunation  at  50d.  the  dollar.  Its 
value  in  mercantile  transactions  varies 
according  to  exchange,  being  48  at  times, 
and  often  as  hi^^  ss  54.  Tht  value  of 
a  ahilling  is  only  lid.  in  mixed  copper  | 


and  silver  money — is.  2r.  and  11  coar- 
tos.  English  sixpences  change  for  SJd. 
— is.  Ir.  11  ouartos. 

When  asked  a  price,  inquire  if  it  is 
in  money  of  Gibraltar,  or  de  vellon  (real 
value).  There  is  a  good  deal  of  cheating 
and  passing  off  fidse  coins,  especially 
Spanish  four-dollar  pieces.  Look  if 
they  have  a  sign  with  name  on  extreme 
right  of  queen's  head. 

Gibraltar  draws  on  London  in  effective 
dollars  of  12r.,  and  London  on  Gibraltar 
in  current  dollars  of  8r.  The  exchange 
on  Oadis  and  other  Spanish  cities  is  in 
hard  dollars^  at  a  percentage. 

JSoiiJbrff.— Messrs.  Archbald,  John- 
ston, k  Powers,  Waterport  Street 

OomuU, — Fronee,  M.  Laurent  Oo- 
chelet  Moroeeo,  Hadgi  Said  Guesus^ 
acting.  Portugal^  Jos^  Benso.  Spain, 
C.  de  Barcaist^gui.  U,  S,  of  America, 
Horatio  Jones  Sprague,  Esq. 

0(nnmi8$ionaire,  Macias,  Club  House 
Hotel,  $1  a-day.  Baths,  Irish  Town, 
near  Commercial  Square.  Morocco  a/r- 
tiiUi,  Hadgi,  Main  Street  All  the 
princpal  shops  are  in  Waterport  Street 
Clubs,  Officers*  Club.  Dodon,  Dr.  Pa- 
dron  and  Dr.  H.  Stokes,  $2  fee  at  hotel. 
Casino  de  Calps  (Gibraltar  Cluh),  ad- 
mission to  the  reading-room  can  easily 
be  obtained  by  application  to  hotel- 
keepers,  merchants^  etc  Garrison  Li- 
brary and  Commercial  Library.  Cigars, 
Moreri,  Main  Street;  Montegriffo's, 
etc. — ^imported  direct  Those  who  in- 
tend to  travel  through  Spain  should 
buy  them  at  Cadiz  or  Malaga,  and  get 
the  receipt  of  duty,  etc  N.  B,  — An  ad- 
ditional duty,  odToi,  is  charged  at  every 
town  stopped  at 

utfmuJMVMiUt.— Theatre  Royal,  Tennis 
Cricket  Court,  Racket  Court,  and  the 
CalpeHunt 

HunHng  a/«6.— The  Calpe  Hunt 
dub  was  ftmnded  by  Admiral  Flemin|^ 
in  1814,  who  brought  here  a  pack  of 
hounds,  which  became  the  property  of 


OUON. 


159 


the  dab.  There  Is  a  teeretaiy,  to  whom 
apply  for  edmittanoe.  The  eport  i« 
good,  and  there  are  ezoellent  oovers. 
A  good  hack  can  he  \iired  for  the  day 
for 3 dollars. '  The  best  meetsare  now: 
2d  Yenta,  Pine  Wood,  Halfga  road, 
Dnke  of  Kent's  farm.  There  is  like- 
wise some  shootinj^  woodcocks  espe- 
cially, in  the  oork-wood,  and  cabras 
montesas,  partridges,  and  wildfowl  are 
found  in  the  Tidnity  of  Estepona  and 
the  cooyent  de  la  Ahnorayma,  14  m. 

Sxewiuma, — To  Cfarteya, — ^An  early 
Carthsginian  city ;  remains  of  an  amphi- 
theatre, and  two  miles'  dronit  of  wdls; 
some  very  interesting  coins  are  often 
dngap,andsoldtoTisitor8.  ToJimena, 
— Carious  grottoes  and  ruins  of  a  pic- 
turesqady-sitaated  Moorish  castle.  &- 
cmrtion  to  TartfcL  (See  C(uUm.)  To 
the  convent  of  Almoraima  144  o^  ^7 
San  Boque,  and  18)  m.  by  the  strai^^t 
road,  and  4  m.  on  to  the  Castle  of  OuB' 
tellar,  owned  by  the  Marquis  of  Mos- 


coso.  At  San  Pedro  Alcantsim,  an  ez- 
tendre  estate  recently  bou^t  by  Mar- 
shal Concha,  the  sugar-cane  Is  bdng 
cultirated  on  a  very  large  scale.  The 
town  is  unwhdesome ;  parts  of  the 
grounds  abound  with  game.  Alg^drat, 
A  spedal  steamer  plies  daily  between 
Gitodtar  and  Algedras.  In  a  boat, 
with  faTouraUe  wind  and  oar,  about  8 
to  4  hn.  going  and  returning,  which 
can  be  done  for  80r.  (rdlon).  Described 
•tOadia. 

Miles. 
Wat«iportOat«loLiiiet  i| 

Cunpo  3^ 

San  Roqne  6 

Fine  river  called 

OoMUmnqoe .       si 

Ximena  a4 

Tarila  by  the  land  'a4 

Lot  Barrios  is 
Algedras,  by  tht 

beadi  lo 
Aigeciras,  across 

the  bay    .  si 

Ckrteya  $ 


n 
ft 
»» 


»* 
•» 
tt 


»* 


tt 


For  Tanffiers,  etc,  S0i  Koroooo. 


QIJON. 


Prorinoe  of  Oriedo^  capital  of  a  con- 
ocjo^  Asturian  sea-port  (haiilitado). 
Pop.  2220. 

Boutas  and  Oonv* — ^The  diortest  Is 
from  Bayonne  by  sea.  Steamers  of  La 
Compagnie  Internationale  de  Nayiga- 
tion  k  Vapeur,  at  Bayonne,  Place 
d'Armes  No.  8.  Twice  a-month  (see 
Cheso  Time-Tables,  etc)  Distance, 
862  klL  and  189  marine  (French)  miles 
(about  40  hrs.)  Fares,  1st  cabin,  840r. 
(891  50c) ;  2d  cabin,  240r.  (681  20c) 

From  Nantes,  Bordeaux,  Hayre, 
Southampton,  etc,  by  sea.    See  SatU- 

From  SanUnmler.  By  land  (see  Ovi- 
edo).  By  steamer,  10  hrs.,  touching  at 
Sui  Yioente  de  la  Barquera,  and  leay- 
ing  once  a-week.  1st  cabin,  200r.  ; 
2d  cabin,  160r. 


From  ConOfa  and  FerroL — Steamers 
plying  between  these  ports  and  Santan- 
der  and  Bayonne  toudi  at  O^on  about 
onoe  a-fortni^t  (18  hrs.)  Fares  finom 
CoruAa,  Ist  cabin,  200r.  (62f:  eftc) ; 
2d  cabin,  140r.  (861  86c) 

From  Ovi^do.  By  Diligenoc  Dis- 
tance, 4  leagues.  Time,  2|  to  8  hrsi 
Fares,  berlina,  lOr.  ;  int,  16r.  Two 
senrioes  a-day  for  Oriedo  at  8  A.M.  and 
2  p.m. 

The  road  tiayerses  the  pretty  oountiy 
about  the  fdigresias  of  Lugones,  crosses 
the  Nora  and  the  small  dena  dose  to 
Venta  de  la  Osmpana,  which  forms  part 
of  the  Asturian  mountdns.  Half-way 
is  the  ruined  yery  early  church  of  YU- 
lardoreya  It  is  of  Uie  Latin  or  Bo* 
mano-Bysantine  style,  and  dose  to 
Venta  de  Yefanes  are  the  mint  of  a 


160 


QUON. 


TempWs  monastezy.    ?rom  the  rega 

of  Porceyo  one  can  alreadj  descry  Giion. 

From  Leon,  raU  to  La  RobU,  16  kiL, 

1  h.  11  m. ;  whence  hy  dil  via  Oriedo. 

Oaneral Deaoription. — Inn:  Para- 
dor  do  laa  Diligencias.  Ggon  ia  situ- 
ated on  the  slopes  of  a  hill  or  headland, 
snmnnded  almost  on  every  side  by  the 
Mar  Oantabrica.  It  is  the  most  import- 
ant of  Astnrian  ports,  which  is  not 
saying  much.  Its  excellent  port  deserves 
more  prosperity,  the  entrance  being 
easy  at  all  times,  and  the  bottom  good. 
It  is  habOUado;  that  is,  eigoys  the 
privflege  of  trading  with  America—* 
privilege  seldom  granted,  and  which 
snch  ports  as  Bilbao  and  St  Sebastian 
do  not  possess.  The  roadstead  is  de- 
fended by  the  small  promontories  of 
Gapes  San  Lorenzo  and  Torres,  and  it 
has  become  a  fashionable  sea-bathing 
resort,  patronised  by  the  qaeen  and  her 
court  The  coalfields,  which  abound 
close  by,  at  Langrco  and  elsewhere,  are 
a  great  source  of  trade,  and  the  more 
so  since  the  opening  of  the  railway 
from  Sama. 

Historically,  it  is  not  the  Gigia  of 
Ptolemy,  but  the  early  Gegio  of  the 
Romans.  Easily  taken  and  retained  by 
the  Moors,  it  became  the  residence  of 
Munuxa,  its  Moorish  governor,  who 
surrendered  the  town  to  Pelayo,  after 
the  loss  of  the  battle  of  Canicas.  Some 
writers  have  asserted  that  PeUyo's  suc- 
cessors wero  styled  Kings  of  Gyon,  but 
it  is  an  erroneous  interpretation  of  the 
Carta  de  Fundacion  of  Obon* ;  '  Adel- 
gaster  filius  regis  Gegionis'  ought  to  be 
read,  'regis  Silonis.'  At  the  time  of 
its  prosperity  the  city  was  confined  to 
the  headland  that  projects  between  the 
ensenidai.  The  sea  isolated  it,  and 
the  only  communications  between  were 
carried  on  by  a  large  and  wide /oso,  and 
by  a  lagoon,  or  hunwdal^  with  an  almost 
impracticable  embouchure.  In  Philip 
II. 's  time  Ggon  possessed  good  arsenals, 
and  the  Invincible  Armada  was   re- 


paired here.  In  1552-54,  ChariesT. 
granted  money  to  the  burghers  to  bnUd 
a  coy,  or  quay,  and  a  new  one  was 
built  in  1766  by  Pedro  Menendes. 

Sights. — On  entering  the  town  ob- 
serve the  fine  gate  del  In/anU,  erected 
by  Charles  III.  in  commemoration  of 
Pelayo,  Infans  Pelagius,  and  which 
opens  on  the  largest  street  here,  called 
'La  Corrida,' which  crosses  the  whole 
city,  and  leads  to  the  port  or  muelle. 
The  town  is  clean  and  improving,  but 
wanting  in  objects  of  interest  The 
Colegiata  and  San  Pedro  (1410)  aro  in- 
different In  the  latter  is  the  tomb  of 
Jovellanos  and  his  marble  bust  This 
great  and  true  patriot  was  a  native  of 
Qgon  (bom  January  5, 1744),  who  died 
at  Vejo,  1811.  Cean  Bermudes,  one  of 
the  few  good  critical  writers  on  art 
that  Spain  can  boast  ot,  was  also  bom 
hero.  The  houses  of  Marq.  of  Revilla- 
gigedo,  Casa  Yald^  and  San  Estebon, 
are  not  early,  but  goodish  mansions. 
The  Instituto  Asturiano,  founded  by 
Jovellanos  (1797),  possesses  a  fair  li- 
brary. The  tobacco-manufacture  em- 
ploys upwards  of  1400  fomale  hands. 


Bzoursion  to  Irfmgreo.—Distaiice,  39 
IdL  Tiaie,«|hn.  Fares,  ittd.,  S4r.:  ad  d., 
lor.  soc.;  3d  d.,  jr.  TWo  tnina  a-day.  This 
railroad,  which  has  been  made  ftptriaUy  for  the 
coal-pits,  was  die  work  of  Seftor  Aguado,  an 
enterprising  capitalist  who  (though  a  gentleman 
of  good  birth  and  connections  in  Andalusia) 
died  in  the  winter  of  184a,  on  his  journey  to 
Gijon,  from  cold  and  starvation.  The  rail 
goes  only  to  Sama,  whence  conveyances  can  be 
had  to  die  mines.  The  latter  are  worked  by 
Spanish  and  Newcastle  companies.  The  coal- 
beds  in  some  places  run  13  ft.  thick,  the  average 
being  between  3  and  4  ft.  The  coal  b  consi- 
dered inferior  only  to  the  best  English,  and  is 
considerably  exported.  Anglers  can  try  the 
Nakw,  near  which  is  the  fine  palado  of  the  If  arq. 
deCaapo  Sagrado. 


Maouralon  to  I>erra.— s  league.  Visit  die 
churdi,  dates  1006.  Also,  near  Gijon,  visit 
Church  of  Sta.  Maria  de  Valdedios,  founded 
899  by  Alfonso  el  Magno.  The  newer  choich 
was  built  by  Alfonso  IX. 


161 


QRANADA. 


Gapitid  of  prorinoe  of  Gnnada,  re- 
ddenoe  of  Gaptain-OenflraL  Pop.  of 
proTinoe»  441,404;  of  dtj,  67,826 
(1860). 
BoutM  and  OonTeTanooa. — From 
Madrid.  Bj  rail  as  far  as 
Meivibar,  on  the  Madrid  to 
Cordova  line.  Time,  11} 
hra.  Farei,  148,  50,  and  115.  Diet 
887  ka  At  Ke^jibar  a  special  diL 
serrice.  La  Madrilefta  (of 
Co.  Payvas  l^jo)  leave 
twice  a-daj  in  connection 
with  railwaj  trains.  Jaen  to  Granada 
bj  road.  From  Jaen,  bj  same  diL  to 
Granada,  16)  leagoes  (49)  miles). 


GuBpflo  de  Areaaa  .       •    3l 

GottOo  d«  Andar    ....    a 
VairtadeMkagafaui       ...    3 

Ch^iarnd a 

dsBada  .a 

This  road,  most  of  which  was  opened 
in  1828,is  ezcdUent  andweU-engineered, 
and  passes  thitnii^  a  oonntiy  wild  and 
pictuesqneincwtainportbns.  There 
are  some  dwarfish  oaks,  broom,  and 
heaUier.  The  aloe  appears  for  the  first 
time^  and  Andalnsh--the  Moot's  earthlj 
paradise^  the  enchanted  land— now  lies 
before  70a  ;  and  tmly. 

La  lam  owlla  •  lieca»  •  dilattoaa, 
SmiE  a  aa  gi  abbkator  pfodaoa. 

Ja«n. — Oapital  of  prorince  of  ssme 
name  ;  pop.  83,988.  /imul— Most  in- 
different The  best  is  Psrador  de  Dili- 
gencia%  El  Oaf4  Nnevo.  The  prorinoe 
of  Jaen  (Arabic^  JftjrylA),  was  an  in- 
dependent Mooriih  Idngdom  of  268 
sqoare  leagoes.  It  produces  the  oUtc 
and  Tine,  which  yield  inferior  oQ  and 


oommon  heady  wine.  The  froit  is 
ezqnisite^  especially  the  melons  of 
Graftena,  peaches  of  Alcandeto,  pome- 
granates from  Jimena,  and  pears  from 
Jandttlilla.  There  are  no  cattle,  and 
bat  few  sheepi  The  formerly  celebrated 
breed  of  bolls  has  disappeiffed,  as  also 
the  swift,  thin-lagged,  bMotifol  horses 
of  the  Loma  de  Ubeda,  whose  original 
Arab  blood  can  scarcely  now  be  traced 
in  the  present  'Jacas  de  terdopelo^'  as 
the  song  has  it^  of  Jaen.  There  are 
abondant  lead-minea^  yielding  opwards 
of  28,000  metrical  qointali  per  annom. 
Poblio  instroctioQ  is  at  so  low  an  ebb 
that,  oot  of  a  population  of  862,466, 
only  60,781  are  sopposed  to  be  aUe  to 
read  1  The  conseqoence  is,  that  there 
occur  from  850  to  400  mordersand  cases 
of  Initmn  eorporaim  a-year,  and  250  to 
800  robberies,  etci 

Jaen,  the  Boman  Aoringi,  was  the 
head-quarters  of  the  Cartha^^nians^  and 
became  the  terror  of  the  Bomans  until 
the  capture  of  it  by  Lucius  Sdpio  Afri- 
canus  (T.  liyy,  L  28,  cap.  ilL)  The 
dty  became  prosperous  under  their  rule^ 
but  no  Testiges  remain  of  their  passage 
ssTS  a  few  slabs,  with  inscriptions  show- 
ing the  former  existence  of  baths  and  a 
temple  of  Apollo.  But  such  is  the  fitto 
of  this  dty,  that,  althoa^^  the  Moon 
ruled  orer  it  for  five  centwies,  nothing 
remains  of  their  mosques,  waU%  tto. 
It  was  the  key  of  the  kingdom  of  Gra- 
nada on  the  K.  side.  8t  Ferdinand, 
after  three  sieges^  becsme  pomassad  of 
it^  and  pulled  down  tiie  great  mosque 
to  build  a  church,  and  Juan  II.  gare  up 
the  Moorish  palace  to  some  monks. 
Towsids  the  end  of  the  15th  century, 
the  ballsd  hero^  *E1  Moro  Bednsn,' 
offered  Boabdil  to  undertake  tiie  recap- 
ture of  Jaen,  and  consented,  were  he  t^ 


162 


ORANABA — ROUTES. 


fail,  to  be  exiled  from  Granada.  The 
ballad  on  that  subject  and  wager,  in  G. 
Porei  de  Hita's  'Gnerras  Ciyiles  do 
Granada,'  is  graphic,  and  sayoarB  of 
those  ehiralroua  timea^  deedfl,  and  men. 
*  Bednan,  bien  te  acnerdas. — Que  me 
diste  la  palabra,~qae  me  darias  4  Jaen. 
En  ona  noche  ganada.'  And  one  can 
actoallj  watch  fioabdil  riding  alowlj 
oat  of  the  gate  of  Elyira,  amid  hia 
nnmerona  foUowers,  gaily  attired,  '  En 
medio  de  todos  ellos— ya  el  Bey  Chico 
de  Granada  mirando  las  damas  moras 
de  las  Torres  del  Alhambra. ' 

The  dty  rises  on  the  slopes  of  aceno 
crowned  by  rains  of  a  castle.  It  is 
washed  on  the  E.  by  the  Gaadalballon, 
and  stands  amid  gardens  Aillpf  frait 
and  regetablesb  wiUi  a  few  palms  here 
and  there.  The  dty  walls  are  last 
orambling  down.  There  are  some  cari- 
oos  gates,  especially  the  ogiyal  Portillo 
del  Arroyo  de  San  Pedro,  the  horseshoe 
Paerta  de  Martos,  etc  The  fortified 
line  of  walls  extended  from  the  castle 
towards  the  S.  by  Paerta  de  Granada, 
of  which  last  bat  little  remains ;  then 
went  by  El  Portillo  los  Adaires,  Paerta 
Barreros,  and  back  again  by  Paerta  de 
Martos,  to  castle,  which  was  defended 
from  £.  to  S.  by  predpitoas  hills.  The 
castle  is  indifferent ;  the  Torre  del  Ho- 
menage  contains  a  few  rooms,  some  with 
Gothic  ceilings  and  agimeces.  Close 
by  is  the  Horo-Gothic  Ermita  of  Sta. 
Oatalina,  boilt  by  St  Ferdinand.  The 
streets  are  narrow  and  winding;  the 
walls  and  hoases  whitewashed,  the  iron- 
wrought  balconies  dothed  with  Tine  and 
iyy,  at  the  comers  of  which  are  placed 
the  Mooriah  fashioned  jarras  de  Andn- 
Jar.  There  are  cool  c<mrts  inside,  with 
foontains  and  plants.'^  In  the  streets 
the  traveller  will  notice  that  silence  and 
•olitnde  of  all  Oriental  popalations,  that 
fly  from  the  heat,  have  nothing  to  do, 
and  dose  away  life  in  a  cool  comer. 
The  Alameda  forms  a  charming  prome- 


nade, from  which  there  are  piotoiesqiie 
viewa  There  are  an  indifferent  theatre 
and  a  ball-ring  for  8000  spectators. 

The  OcUhedral  dates  1682,  and  is  one 
of  the  first  churches  built  in  Spain  after 
the  GrsBCo-Boman  style.  It  is  the  work 
of  Pedro  Yalddyira,  who  erected  it  on 
the  ruins  of  a  former  church  built  by 
St  Ferdinand  on  the  site  of  the  great 
mosque.  It  is  a  noble  stracture^  very 
pure  in  its  design  and  details.  Some 
of  the  latter,  however,  Mr.  Fergusson 
(H.  Modem  Styles)  considers  to  possess 
an  unmistakahle  Gothic  character, 
especially  the  imposts  and  dustered 
diafts.  There  are  four  entrances.  The 
prindpal  one,  W.,  stands  between  two 
massive  towers  with  cupolas,  only  effect- 
ive from  a  distance.  The  interior  is 
noble,  and  composed  of  three  naves,  but 
sadly  defiu»ed  by  whitewash,  colour,  too 
proftise  ornaments,  foliage,  arabesques; 
and  the  like.  The  doorsin  the  transept 
leading  to  the  sacristy,  etc.,  are  finely 
decorated,  formed  of  drccdar  arches 
with  Corinthian  pillars,  statues;  and  re- 
lievos representing  scenes  from  the  life 
of  Christ  The  C%<nr  is  most  indifferent. 
The  TraaooTO  is  richly  ornamented  with 
marbles  found  in  the  province,  and  in 
the  retaUo  is  a  poor  Holy  Family  by 
Madia.  On  the  left  on  entering,  in  a 
chapd  Just  below  the  tower,  is  kept  an 
image  of  the  Virgin,  which  Cip.  Zufiiga 
used  to  carry  on  his  standard  in  time  of 
war.  It  is  very  old,  but  ill  repaired. 
In  the  high  chapd  is  kept  the  relic,  of 
which  the  inhabitants  of  Jaen  are  very 
proud,  though  similar  relics  may  be 
found  at  Alicante,  Chapd  of  P.  Pio  at 
Madrid,  etc.,  without  counting  the  au- 
thentic ones  at  Rome,  Lucca,  Germany, 
etc  It  is  called  £1  Santo  Bostro,  the 
Holy  Face  of  Christ;  as  impressed  on 
the  handkerchief  of  Santa  Veronica, 
who  lent  it  to  wipe  the  sweat  from  the 
Saviour's  face  on  His  road  to  Calvaiy. 
This  is  said,by  the  best  authorities,  to  be 


GRANADA — R0X7TE& 


163 


merely  a  copy  of  the  one  it  Rome,  and 
it  is  a  yery  indifferent  painting. 

There  is  a  fine  portal,  by  Valdelyira, 
at  Chnrcli  of  San  Migncl,  a  rery  old 
Gothic  Church  of  San  Joan.  There  are 
a  few  spedmens  of  dTH  priyate  archi- 
tectore  of  16th  oentoiy.  See  house  of 
Oonde  de'Villar,  the  portal  of  which  is 
a  medley  of  the  Moorish,  ogiral,  and 
Roman  styles,  Vat  of  good  and  novel 
effect ;  the  pkteresque  frfade  of  the 
hoose  of  Bi^op  La  Foente  del  Sanoe, 
and  those  of  Yilches,  Qnesada  Ulloa, 
and  the  Gnsco-Roman  CSasa  de  los  Ma- 
sones.  On  leaving  Jaen,  tiie  road  be- 
comes wilder,  mountainous,  and  a  tunnel 
S8  yards  lon^  the  Puerta  de  Arenas, 
runs  throng  a  gorge.  There  sre  afew 
rentas  and  pretty  hamlets.  The  bridge 
of  Beiro  is  crossed,  and  Granada  is 
reached. 

I.  From  Olbraltar.  By  tea  to  Uthig^ 
thence  by  rail  and  dU. 

».  From  Gihmttar  by  bmd.  By  Ronda  or 
Aatequera.  Thisisoaeof  the  most  picturetqae 
^  and  beautiful  rides  hi  Spain,  and  the 
rM^  Ktaaj  h  wild  and  Tery  grand. 
^jf^  The  roadi,  and  in  theff  abeence, 
^''^"■"  die  mountain-paths,  are  tolerably 
easy*  ETBrythng  lyminds  us  most  foiubly 
of  Moorish  Spain,  the  appearance  and  sitna- 
taon  of  die  TtUages^  the  names,  die  peasantry 
and  their  dress,  ctc>  Xheie  .are  treasures  here 
for  the  landscape-painter.  The  usual  way  is 
by'San  Roque,  Gandn,  13  leagues ;  but  there  is 
a  short  cut  by  the  Angostura  da  Corles,  wfaidi 
we  recommend,  and  whidi  saves  two  long 
leagues,  and  is  more  ptcturesQue  and  mlerest^ 
fai^  The  whole  ride  «M(f  be  perfetmed  hi  three 
days  and  a  half;  but  four  good  days  are  re> 
(|uired  to  get  over  the  ground  with  comfort, 
e^acially  if  there  are  ladies  in  the  party. 

/iiminuy,/r0m  GUrmUmr  U  Grmmadm, 

(By  Smn  Rofiie.)         Leagues. 

San  Roque  to  La  Veota  de  la  LeJA .  i 

Venta  de  AguadslgiMihifo  (Loofttablosi)  •  s 

Bocaleooes  .  | 

VentoriUo  dd  Cagaion      .       .       .       .  s 

Barca  de  Cuenca i 

Venta  de  MoUano  or  Moyano  ...  a 
Bait  hones. 

Baica  de  Cortes a 

HciaiU  de  la  Sahid        .       .       .       .  i 


CueradelGalo s 

Roada *  •      1 

Ahrm,  a  rsihray  station  of  fine,  Malaga 
to  Cordova,  Ues  about  to  leagues  from 
Rooda.  — 

In  one  day,  rising  eaily.  11 

Barranoo  Hondo       .....      i 
Cuevas  do  Beceiro  .  •       . «    a . 

Venta  del  CSego i 

Venta  deTefaa i 

Csmpillos ....  .       .      I 

Sleep  either  here  or  at  the  fcOowiag^  8 
t09hn. 

Antequera $ 

Archidooa a^ 

Venta  de  Rioino                              .  (long)  a 
Loja I 

Sleephere,  and  neat  day  eailylo  Granada. 

Venu  del  Pulgar i| 

Venta  Nueva s 

Venta  da  Cadn        ....  (short)  i 

Lachar (loi«)  a^ 

Santa  F< a 


^ 


The  road  crooaes  the  Monte  de  Cmtillar  and 
its  cork-wood,  at  the  end  of  whidi  is  the  Faso 
de  Boca  Leones,  the  ibrmcr  ibcus  of  Andahman 
bandidos,  and  the  scene  of  disir  celebrated  chief 
Jostf  Maria's  exploits.  The  scenery  now,  sa  fitf 
as  Ronda,  u  almost  unrivaDed,  and  travelers 
have  to  wind  their  way  along  precipices,  and 
across  samu  rivers,  wfaidi  are  passed  on  femes 
(AcmwX  Those  going  by  Gandn  and  Ati^)ata 
sleep  at  the  liMner,  and  get  next  day  eaily  to 
Rooda,  betweca  a  and  3  p.m.,  starting  at 
6  to  6.30  A.M.  (hmmcm.— Inn :  Posada  ta- 
glesa,  dean  and  decent  There  are  some  deao 
and  quiet  Cases  de  Pupilos  on  die  Mercadillo, 
close  to  the  bull-ring.  The  view  from  the 
ruined  castle,  the  situation  of  the  village,  are 
wdl  worthy  of  a  visit  when  there  is  tiam  to 
qwre.  By  leaving  Gibraltar  at  7  A.M.  you 
can  easily  get  in  to  Gandn  at  s  p.m.  ;  but  the 
road  avoiding  Gaudn  -is  &r  easier  and  asore 
picturesque.  By  €»miMg  Jr0m  Ronda  to  Gib- 
raltar, you  may  avoid  two  leagues'  uninteresting 
road  by  striking  off  to  die  left,  doee  to  the 
cork-wood ;  and  bear  in  mind  that  the  gates  of 
Gibraltar  dose  at  cannon  hour.  See  Gihmiimp; 

Bonda.— 43,996  inhab.  Inn :  Posada  de  hs 
Animas.  It  is  the  capital  of  the  Jerrania. 
Ronda  is  one  of  the  most  picturesquely 
situated  dties  in  die  world,  tlad  perfectly 
unique  in  its  way.    It  is  buHt  on  a  very  ha^ 


164 


ORANABA — ^ROUTSa 


rode,  deft  b  twain  by  vokaaic  action,  and 
between  whoae  pfedpitous  sides  or  walls  flows 
die  boiUns  Gnadiarok  whidi  firts  the  dty,  and 
takes  here  the  name  of  Guadalvin,  and  divides 
the  new  dty  (Ronda  la  Nueva)  from  the  older 
(Ronda  la  ^Hcja).  The  country  round,  on 
^ipcoachinf  this  town,  is  quite  charming. 
Valleys  green  and  fresh.  On  the  left,  hills, 
covered  with  the  oKve,  the  vine;  and  on  the 
right,  well-cttltivated  fields,  burning  whh 
fecundity  and  studded  with  iiretty  flat-roofed 
Oriental  white  cottages  glitteiing  in  the  sun, 
and  the  Siena  itsdf  rising  before  one,  with  its 
warm,  deep  ridi  tints,  and  eflective  grouping, 
and  bold  outlines  greet  the  tourist. 

The  streets  of  Ronda  are  dean,  and  die  rejas 
of  die  houses  project  into  die  street,  and  con* 
tain  quantities  of  flowers.  The  market*place 
overiiangs  die  Tijo  or  Chasm*  and  should  be 
visited,  as  exhibiting  all  the  varieties  of  deli- 
cious firuit,  fer  which  the  neis^hbouring  orchards 
of  Ronda  are  fer  famed  throughout  Andalusia. 
The  Alameda  commands  an  unrivalled  view  of 
the  mountains,  crowned  by  the  lofty  Cristobal 

The  main  curiosity  and  the  lion  of  Ronda  b 
the  Chasm,  or  Ti^  The  bridge  thrown 
acroas  was  built  m  1761,  by  Jostf  M.  AldegueU, 
and  is  976  ft.  (Spanish)  above  the  waten  of  the 
river:  the  only  arch  it  consisrs  of  b  no  ft. 
diameter  or  span,  and  is  supported  by  two 
pillaia  17  ft.  deep.  The  view,  looking  down 
feom  the  bridge,  and  that  also  k>oking  up  to 
this  grand  and  wild  cascade  of  liquid  sOver 
from  the  lowest  mill,  are  not  to  be  equalled, 
and  we  do  not  even  attempt  to  describe  the 
effect,  for  it  baflks  pen  and  penciL  The  other 
and  older  bridge  is  iso  ft.  high.  Visit,  besides, 
die  Dominican  Convent;  a  Moorish  tower' In 
Calle  dd  Puente  Viejo:  the  Casa  dd  Rey 
Mofo»  buOt  1049  by  AL  Motadhed :  die  '  Mina 
de  Ronda,'  which  is  a  staircase  of  400  steps,  cut 
out  in  the  rock  by  order  of  AU  Abu  Mdec,  in 
i34*»  v^  employed  Christian  slaves.  The 
handsome  bullying  is  built  of  stoiM.  The  bull- 
fights here  are  certainly  die  best  in  Spain  for 

as  the  Ronda  population  is  composed  of  hardy 
and  bold  mountaineers,  bandidos  retired  fima 
businem,  smugglers  (that  polite  name  tot  the 
fiMner  occupatkm  or  tradeX  and  bull-fighting 
and  horse-dealing  are  their  patslon  and 
favourite  occupation.  There  Is  a  celebrated 
fiur  heM  every  year  (aoth  May),  when  the 
BM^jesa,  buO-fii^terB,  the  small  swift  horses, 
the  ruddy<hedced  pretty  women^  are  seen  bk 
all  thdr  force,-  bloom,  and  beauty.  It  is  a 
cs^ital  time  and  pboi  fer  acquisitions  of 
en^Hoidcred  gaiters  and  garters,  etc 
not  very  mtcrestmg^  puiy  be 
to  Cncvn  dd  Galo  (two  leagues  N.W.X 


wbidi  is  full  of  stalactical  cavemi^  and  to  the 
ruins  of  Ronda  la  Vieja.  Ronda  is  recom- 
mended to  tourists  in  the  S.  of  Spain,  who  may 
seek  a  cod  summer  residence,  and  many 
wealthy  Sevillanos  and  Mabgueftos  come  here 
ev^ry  summer.  The  climate  b  exceedingly 
sahibcious  and  mild,  and  longevity  proverbial. 

Next  day  the  nud-day  halt  had  better  be  at 
Vento  dd  CSego.  Leaving  Teba  on  the  right, 
which  b  only  interesting  as  being  the  tstle  woro 
by  the  Empress  Eugteie,  who  b  (jounteas  of 
Teba  in  her  own  right,  Campillos  may  be 
reached  ftom  7  to  9  hrs.  after  leaving  Ronda. 
ImMg:  La  Corona,  Jesus  Nasareno,  etc.  Two 
leagues  ftom  thb  village  b  the  SaUna,  or  Salt 
Lake. 

Aateqoera^Populatkw,  S7,34a  TheAnd- 
caria  of  the  Romans  and  Antikeyiih  of  the 
Moors,  b  pbced  on  a  height,  and  was  a  strong- 
hokl  of  the  Roman  and  the  Moor.  Of  the 
ancient  town— Anteqnera  la  Vbja— ther«  are 
but  very  few  vestiges,  such  as  some  vague 
traces  of  a  theatre  and  a  pabce,  removed  in 
1585  and  embedded  in  the  waUs  dose  to  tha 
Aroo  de  k»s  Gigantes.  There  b  little  to  see 
here.  Tourists  who  have  time  to  spare  may 
BMCtad  to  the  castle,  built  by  the  Romans  and 
considerably  enlarged  by  the  Moors,  from 
whom  the  dty  was  recovered  by  the  Regent 
Fernando,  hence  called  '  El  Infente  de  Ante- 
quera,'  in  S4ia  Wmt  here  some  Roman  re- 
mains at  the  entrance ;  the  ^^"'♦^^n  and 
Torre-macha  are  curious.  The  (}olegiata  of 
Sta.  Maria  b  indifferent,  both  outside  and  in- 
side.   Immtj  La  Carona,  Posada  de  la  Ckstafia. 

Here  there  are  dib.  to  CrmHmda,  and  also  to 
Mmimgrn  (9  leagues)  by  the  Boca  dd  Asao, 
Venta  de  (Salves,  four  leagues ;  Linares,  two 
leagues ;  Matagatoa,  one  league ;  or  on  to 
Loga,  eight  leagues  .*  whence  by  rail  to  Malaga, 
twolum. 

The '  Cueva  dd  Mensal'  outside  the  town,  as 

we  continue  our  way  to  (Granada,  may  be 

examined  by  antiquarians.    It  boneof  the  few 

monuments  found  in  Spain  of  die  Cdtic  period 

or  Druidical  dmes.    It  b  yo  ft.  deep.    It  was, 

so  to  say,  discovered  and  cleared  away  by  a 

Malaga  architect,  Seftor  Mitfana,  in  1849,  who 

has  written  a  description  of  it  (8vo :  Malaga 

i«47X 
Artkidfttm^  b    a   wretched    village,   with 

nothing  to  visit,  and  Loga  b  soon  reached. 
For  the  rest  of  route  to  Granada,  see  the  route 
from  Malaga  to  Granada. 

Prom  Malaga  by  rail — (Line,  Ma- 
laga to  Cordoya),  as  far  as  Bobadilla. 
Time, 24 hit.  ClLcar.byrafl 
to  Antepum,  )lir. ;  between 
latter  and  Loja,   a  special 


GRAKADA— ROUTE& 


165 


diL  serrioe  in  attendanoe.  Loja  to 
OranadA,  bjrail,  Shm ;  diat |f|{4kiL  See 
for  Anieqaera,  Gibraltar  to  Qranada.  On 
leaving  that  city  the  lofty  range  of  the 
Torcaleahillaareleftononrii^t.  The 
train  paeeea  doee  to  an  immense  rock 
called,  romantically,  '  La  Pefia  de  loe 
Enamorados'  —  Lorer'a  Bock.  Two 
loren,  it  ia  aaid,  a  Mooriah  girl  and  a 
Spanish  knight,  being  poraaed  by  the 
former's  lather's  attoidanti,  fled  for 
relbge  hither,  and  next  day  threw 
themaelYes  from  tiie  rock,  clasped  in 
each  other's  arms.  Ankidona,  an  an- 
cient bat  uninteresting  town,  a  tnnnel 
1000  metres  long;  the  Rio  Frio  river 
crosMd,  and  the  province  of  Granada 
is  entered. 

LdjcL—'Voy,  17,128.  Fonda  de  los 
Angeles— the  Roman  Ladvii^  sndAnb 
Lanza,  once  very  prosperous  snd  a 
iavonrite  with  the  Moor,  is  a  sadly  de- 
cayed town.  It  is  placed  in  a  nanow 
valley  formed  by  the  Periqaetes  hills  (a 
prolongation  of  the  Sierra  de  Ronda) 
and  the  Hacho^  with  the  Genii  waten 
nmning  through  it  and  below  the  city 
with  a  stopendons  noise.  The  Manza- 
nil,  which  rises  dose  by,  forms  a  fine 
caacade  on  Joining  the  GenlL  From 
the  fertility  attending  on  the  abnndaAce 
of  waten,  everything  grows  here  in 
abnndanoe.  The  mnlbeny  thrives  won- 
derfully, and  the  silk  produced  is  fine. 

Not  &r  from  station  of  Toeim  lies  the 
Ustorical  but  otherwise  unimportant 
dtyofAniiaJV.  This  town  was  built 
by  Queen  Isabella,  during  the  siege  of 
Granada,  in  1492;  to  shdter  her  anny 
during  the  winter,  and  show  the  enemy 
how  very  firm  she  and  the  king  were  in 
their  purpose  to  capture  the  town,  the 
last  bulwaric  of  the  Moor.  It  was  de- 
signed after  the  general  outlines  and 
plan  of  Briviesea  (a  wretched  small  town 
of  Gastile^  not  hs  from  Buigos),  and 
Seville,  Cordova,  and  other  laige  dties 
oonlribatsd  with  their  funds  to  the  I 


building  of  it^  which  was  conduded  in 
eighty  days.  Sta.  F4  was  the  scene  of 
many  important  political  acta^  sndi  as 
signh^  the  cafutulationof  Grenada,  etc. 
ok  arriving  at  Granada  by  this  route, 
the  first  impresdon  will  be  almost  a 
diBappointment  The  Alhambn  is  seen 
rising  on  the  left. 

• 

Ridinff  from  Mmlagm,  by  Alhama;  db- 
^  tanoe,  iSkilguet;  twodayiytlMp- 
^^L  iof  at  AUttiiM.  Hon«  majr  ba 
^IMtt  nadilypfociiredatAlaaMda:  turn, 
^tmmm^fOK,  a-day  per  liona^  itablinff  ia- 
duded,  and  4or.  to  gdde,  and  aboot  sar.  to 
aor.  to  aecond  guide  with  die  pack-hocae  (if 
the  paitj  be  muneroiit).  Utelul  goidca  and 
traveUiaf  aenrants  aaj  be  obtained. 


JtiMtrmry. 

Malaga  to  Veles-Malaga .  .  5I 

LaVifiuela     f a 

Veata  de  Juan  Alaneda  .       .       .  i 

Zafarrajra.       .       .       ,       .       .  a 

VentaCadn     ...  .  i| 

From  latter  to  visit  BaBos  de  AJhama  s 

From  Baths  to  town  of  AJhama  | 

Ventas  de  Hudma  ....  a 

La  Mala  (minend  baths  and  Salinas)    i 
Gavia | 

Ahailla \ 

Granada  .  .       .       .       .      | 

"Si 

Two  dils.  leave  Malaga  daily  for  Velea- 
Malagi,  and  perfona  the  Jour- 
ney m  3|  hn.  for  asr.  Ladies 
and  not  orer-stroog  horsemen 
win  do  wdl  to  take  thb  convey- 
ance thus  br;  arme  there  early,  see  the  town, 
and  sleep;  have  die  horses  wahing  and  fireah, 
with  side-saddles,  or  side-chatrs,  and  proceed 
thence  to  Alharaa,  where  sleqv  Next  day  ar> 
rive  at  Granada.  The  Journey  thus  will  be 
rendered  less  latiguiag,  and  the  scenery  is  so 
beautiful  that  die  one  day  asore  will  be  amply 
compensated.  The  inns  are  toloably  good,  but 
travellers  should  attend  to  the  provender. 

For  riding  all  the  way  s  hn.  are  nrr»ssaf| 
to  reach  Vdes-Makga,  where  breakfast  and 
bait  horses.  Seven  hours  C/fnr  to  wdl-giif 
horseman)  are  required  between  Vdes-Malaga 
and  Alhama  (where  deepX  An  hour  and  a 
half  may  be  given  to  see  the  badia  of  Alkuaa. 
Next  morning  leave  at  6  A.11.,  and  (kaaada 
may  be  reached  m  8  hn.  Some  tourisli  prefer 
to  sl^ep  at  Veles,  and  go  00  the 
fourtasa  houit  next  day. 


166 


GRANADA — ^ROUTBS. 


VeliM'Maiagm  it  a  imall  town  of  womt 
tSfCoo  inhak,  a  IdL  from  tbo  tea,  and  at  the 
loot  of  a  hin  winch  Ibnns  part  of  theS.  nuage 
of  the  Sierra  Tcsjada.  TbeRioVeleittcroiaed 
oo  enterinf  it  The  hest  inn  ia  the  Ponda  de 
lot  CafaaUeroa.  Then  it  little  to  aee^  eaco^ 
the  ruined  caide  with  its  toUtary  aonU  tower. 
The  vcgetatioa  anmnd  Vdei  it  most  huraiiant^ 
owing  to  the  rontanr  moisture  and  African 
sun.  The  aloe,  pahn,  sugarcane,  prickly  pear, 
the  orange,  the  vine  and  oil,  indigo^  sod  die 
celebrated  sweet  potato(batata  deMalagaX  grow 
here  without  almost  any  cultiratioo.  Theairis 
salnbrioas,  and  the  dimate  'that  of  heaven,' to 
use  an  Andalusian  hyperbole.  Vdes^Magala 
is  linked  in  Spanish  history  with  many  great 
events  in  Moorish  war&re  and  duvB^ous 
legends.  The  town,  after  a  long  siege,  was 
taken  by  Ferdinand  the  Ostholic,  who  killed  a 
Moor  with  his  own  hand.  Lovers  of  legends 
and  romantic  history  should  read  Washmgton 
Irving's  'Conquest  of  Grenada ;'  historical 
fiict$  nmf  be  gathered  from  Bemafs  'dra  de 
kM  Pakidos,"  Odnica  de  kM  Reyes  Catolicos,' 
Vedmai's  '  Boequejo  Apobg^tioo,'  etc  ;  Ma- 
laga, sfiia  His 'Historia  yGrandesas,*  Gra- 
nada, 1^  and  Rengifo's  'Grandeias,' a  MS. 
in  Marquis  da  la  Romana's  library,  nmy  be 
also  consulted. 


The  road  on  leaving  Vdcs  winds  up  along 
the  river,  and  through  verdant  valleya,  wild 
monnrain  pamrs,  and  orange-groveiL  To  the 
right  rise  the  n>onnfains  of  Tcjada,  the  arid 
slqws  and  heights  of  whidi  are  dotted  with 
vilbges.  Now  the  pass  called  Puerto  de 
Zafanaya  (Arabic^  the  fieU  of  the  shepherds) 
is  crossed.  The  snowy  Sierra  Nevada  soon 
after  breaks  upon  die  traveler,  shining  in  the 
distance  like  a  wall  of  silver.  The  road  be> 
oomsa  dreary  and  monotonous;  here  and  there 
the  eye  is  saddened  by  the  melancholy  sight  of 
heaps  of  stones,  with  die  small  roui^  croes  well 
known  to  toiuists  in  Spain,  as  records  of 
murders  ooouaitted  there.  'Aquf  mataron,' 
etc,  and  often  raised  by  the  penitent  murderers 


^/Imm.— Put  up  at  the  Cmm  dt  bt  Cm- 
imlinm.  AUuuaa  in  Arabic  means 'die  Baths,' 
several  a*^— *flt  or  mineral  springs 
the  same  nauM  in  Spain,  such  as 
Alhama  de  Aragon,  etc  Alhama  stands  most 
picturesqndy  on  die  edge  of  a  rent  in  the 
monnrain  The  streets  rise  like  so  many 
terraces,  one  above  another,  and  bdiind,  as  a 
badcground,  rises  the  Sierra  de  Alhama,  in 
which  the  Tcjada  rises  8000  ft.  above  the  sea. 
It  is  seen  to  most  advantage  coming  from 
Granada.     The   Marchan  winds  round   the 


hills,  and  the  rodcs  rise  almost  perpendicularly 
from  its  bed,  ferming  die  skks  of  the  gorge. 

Alhama  was  one  of  the  most  important  stroog- 
hdds  of  die  Moor,  and  the  hmd-key  of  Grenada. 
Its  importance  did  not  eao^M  either  the  Moor 
or  the  Christian,  and  it  was  the  scene  of  nmny 
neges  and  gallant  deeds  towards  die  decfine  <Ml 
the  Mussulman's  rule  in  Spain,  and  ended  in  its 
capture  by  the  heroic  Marquis  of  Cadis,  Feb- 
ruarya8,i48a.  Theballad, 'Ay  de  mi  Alhama  1' 
whidi  Lord  Byron  translated,  laments  the  loea 
of  this  city,  die  news  of  whidi,  says  the  baUad, 
the  King  of  Granada  would  not  believe  il^  and 

Las  cartas  edid  en  d  fuego^ 
y  al  mensagero  matava ; 


so  strong  and  impregnable  did  ho  consider  it. 
The  ba^  may  be  visited,  on  riding  by  next 
flsormng.  Observe  in  Alhama  (the  Roman 
Artigis  JulicnsisJ  die  aqueduct  wUdi  crosses 
die  plaxa  on  circular  arches,  and  of  Roman, 
some  say  Moorish,  origin.  The  duudi  is  in- 
different. Around  it  are  bits  of  fine  ardu* 
tecture  of  many  varieties  in  the  fiicades  of 
graodeesf  houses,  now  decayed  and  tenantleas. 
The  tijo,  or  diasm,  of  this  miniature  Rooda  is 
very  picturesque,  and  worthy  of  a  Turner. 
Bdow,  the  Marchan  boib  and  rushes  amongrt 
wild  rodcs  and  foliage,  mills  and  bridgae,  and 
lloorish-kMtking  houses  on  the  brink  of  the 

TAt  AiMr.~Probably  known  to  the  Roomns, 
were  much  frequented  by  the  Moors^  whoeo 
frvouriu  badi,  *E1  Bafio  Fuerte,'  is  wdl  pro- 
served.  rhebath,'delaReyna,'withadom^ 
is  probably  'a  Roman  construction.  The  sul- 
phurous qiring  is  4a*  to  43*  cent,  and  strongly 
impregnated  with  nitrogen  gas,  and  is  beneficial 
for  dyspepsia  and  rheomatisas.  The  visitors 
who  in  former  tiases  annually  flodccd  hither,  as 
is  said,  to  the  number  of  14,000^  have  now 
dwindled  to  700  or  8oa  The  accommodation 
is  tolerably  good.  The  road  becomea  dreary 
upd  uninteresting^  and  the  miserable  Cai**T!, 
Venta  de  Hudma,  etc,  are  passed.  Around 
La  Matt  are  several  important  salt-pits  (salinasX 
The  hills  separating  it  from  die  Vega  of  Grenada 
are  composed  of  gypsum,  strongly  uupicgnated 
with  salt.  From  die  brow  of  the  hill  here 
before  us  we  obtain  our  first  view  of  Granada* 
and  the  verdant,  inexhaustibly  rich  vega  lies 
spread  before  us.  To  die  left  rise  hills  whidi, 
becoming  loftier,  break  into  die  diffi  of  Alfocar. 
The  sight  is  truly  Alpine.  Descending  the  hill, 
Gavia  la  Grande  b  readied,  and  a  hrm.'  ride 
acroM  the  vega  brings  the  tnvdler  to  Granada, 
through  a  lucccision  of  corn-fields,  orchards, 
and  ^»*fT*p  pfanf^i^w^f^f  etc 

AT.^.— There  is  a  branch  road  from  Alhama 
toLcJa. 


GRANADA — ^B0I7TB& 


167 


For  Boate  from  AMeria,  see  Al- 

Riding  from  JfWH/ Co  Grmiadti,  59  luL,  i« 

^^    Spaoiih  lenguet.    The  pordon  of 

gftjr   toadas  fiir  as  Beaiar  hu been ro- 


Mocril  to  Vdes  d«  BawdolU 
Isbol        .... 


Talara 

Pfedul 

Granada 


a 
a 
a 
I 
a 

18 


Tba  Jonniejr  nay  be  performed  in  one  long 
day:  ifnot,sleepatBeBiar. 

The  mad  is  interesting  on  aocoant  cf  the 
•ceneiy.  DiL  from  Besnar  to  Granada  and  to 
Lanlaron;  beilina,  4*. ;  int«  jor. ;  to  Granada 
in  about  4  bra. 

JfHril — 13,800  inbab.,  in  the  nuddle  cf  a 
small  TaDey,  and  doae  to  the  sea.  The  climate 
of  this  Talley  is  truly  deUdous,  and  is  con- 
sidered as  the  most  sahabrions  on  the  .whole 
coa«  cf  Granada.  In  winter  the  thermometer 
never  fiUls  below  11*  cent,  and  in  summer  rises 
very  seldom  above  S4*  to  as*  cent  Then  is 
nothing  to  aee  at  Motril,  excepting  a  lor  ves- 
tiges of  walk  and  an  indifferent  church.  Close 
to  the  dty  is  a  small  bay,  £1  Puerto  de  Motril, 
but  reidly  called  Cdahonda.  A  small  viOage 
so  called  is  built  around  it,  and  inhabited  by 
poor  fidiermen  and  sailon.  The  plains  around 
Motiil  abound  with  oil,  vines,  sugar-cane, 
cotton,  Indian  corn,  etc.  There  is  a  bridle  road 
to  Malaga  by  AhnuBecar  and  Vdes-Malaga 
(distance^  about  64  m.). 

yOn  de  BtmrnduUtL—ttoo  inhab.,  dose  to 
GuadaUea,  a  Moorish  town  (Arabic^  'theLand 

oTtheCSiildemorAndaUa').    It  is  also  called 
Veleiaio.    The  castle  is  I 
by  is  a  mill,  with  soom 
planted  by  the  Moors.     The 
ptctnresque  and  romantic. 

Btamar  is  a  wretched  hamlet  composed  of 
crambGng  houses;  the  posada  is  mUd  to  be 
tolerable.  Here  it  is  optional  to  take  the  rowl, 
either  by  Dureal  and  Piulul  or  by  the  Pinoe  dd 
Rey.  The  latter  is  a  prettier  roMl,Jwt  loiter 
by  4  leagues. 

^Omm^m..-.  Close  to  this  otherwise  un- 
interesting hamlet,  is  one  of  the  low  bills  which 
form  the  boundary  on  tUs  side  of  the  Vega  de 
Gramida,  and  is  celebrated  alike  in  hbtory  and 
romance  by  the  mdancholy  name  of 'El  ultimo 
tuspiro  dd  Moro'(the  last  sigh  of  the  Moor). 
It  was  here  dmt  Boabda  halted  after  leaving 


I  Granada 'in  the  hands  of  the  Cktholie  kii^s, 
I  and  was  seen  weeping  as  he  took  a  fiuvwdl 
glance.  His  mother,  then  the  haughty  Aa»- 
rfaah,  rebuking  hia^  said,  'Weep  not  as  a 
woman  for  the  kMs  of  a  kingdom  which  you 
knew  not  how  to  defend  like  a  man.'  '  Anah, 
achbarl' replied  the  fugitive  monarch,  'God  is 
great,  but  what  nusfortunes  were  ever  to  be 
compared  to  mine?'  He  was  really  moet 
«ppropriatdy  surnamed  'Bl  Zogoibi,'  the  ill- 
starred,  for  the  brd  of  the  golden  Alhambra 
saw  his  duUren  at  Fes  bc«gii«  at  the  doom  of 
mosques  I 

d.  From  Hiiroi%  hj  Qnidi^  Btf^ 
and  Loiros»  47  leagues,  8  daya.  Small 
dil.  as  fitf  as  Baa  onlr,  then  ridiog. 
(See  ifim^ia.) 

7.  From  (^rviMNk— Bj  zail  see  Avm 
Madrid, 

Fnm  Cerdfos  by  ro«d.— A  very  intarestiiv 
^  riding-tour  may  be  made  from  Cor^ 
mf   dova  to  Granada.  Therouto 

IHR  acromwikl  romantic  distrio 
dMimttB  mficent  mountain  scenery,  quite 
Alpine  in  character;  the  climate  dehcioua,  and 
the  soil  teemii«  with  fruit,  wine,  com,  and  the 
olive.  The  posadas  are  bod,  and  one  nmst 
rough  it  No  important  towns  or  historical 
dtea  d  importance  are  passed ;  but  there  are 
treasurss  for  the  botanist,  minerafogist,  and 
k>versefthepictureeque.  The  Jouney  can  be 
performed  in  two  days,  if  in  summer;  but  dur- 
ing the  winter  Uvee  are  necessary.  Sleep  at 
Baena.  and,  if  in  winter,  at  Akali  hi  Real,  aa| 


iV.^.— From  Baena  there  is  a  short  cut  to 
Antequers,  is  leagues.    (See  description  i 
bdow,  and  MmUgm  from  Cerdtva), 

limtrmty. 

« 

Cordova  to  Sta. 
Castro  dd  Rio. 


(to  bis.'  ride    long,  from  the 

LaRipita        .       . 
AkalifaiReal,       . 
Vente  de  Palancarea 
Ventas  de  Puerto  Lope 
Finos  Pnente 
Granada  . 


4 

a 

4 


4 

a 
I 
a 
a 
3 


From  Cordova  to  Castro  dd  Rio  the  route  b 
monotonous,  but  the  cornfields  will  interest  the 
English  fiumer ;  not  for  their  mode  of  cultiva- 
tion, but  for  the  produce,  which  in  quality  and 
quantity  is  perhaps  uniivaned  in  the  wodd. 


168 


GRANADA — BOUTBa 


The  only  rhrtr,  which  often  meets  the  tourist, 
is  Um  poor  Guedahoc  Custro  is  the  Castim 
Postuaia  of  Caser's  'Commenhiries.'  la  the 
Town  Han  is  to  be  seen  a  Jasper  slab  of  the 
CMmer  Teaple  of  Augustus. 

Amsnus.— 11,000  inhab.  A  wretched  posada. 
The  castle  on  the  height  was  the  pi  upeiijr  of  Con* 
lala  de  Cordova,  'el  gran  capitan,'  as  the  Duke 
was 'el  gran  lor/  It  is  situated  in  the  old  town 
above.  There  are  soom  funereal  unis  found  in 
1833,  in  a  sepulchre  said  to  have  belonged  to 
the  Poopeya  Cuuly.  In  the  castl^  whi^  with 
the  pmlaci9t  bdongs  to  the  Ahamira  fiunily, 
Pedro  el  Cruel,  having  invited  the  Moorish 
King  of  Granada  toe  series  of  fttes,  traitorously 
murdered  him  with  all  his  foOowen.  If  uley- 
Bshadaei,  another  King  of  Granada,  was  con- 
fined hers  in  1483.  In  the  vicinity  grows  a  very 
pretty  yellow  orchis.  The  Marhrtla  produces 
a  tench  called  arriguda. 

AUmU  U  Jttmi.Scfm  his.  hard  ridii« 
aro  necessary  to  reach  AlcahL  from  Baena, 
though  the  distance  is  short.  Inns  all  bad ;  the 
best  is  Smm  AnUm,  on  the  Alameda.  This 
Al-Kalat  (the  castle)  was  a  strongly  fortified 
dty  in  the  hands  of  the  Moors,  and  was  taken 
in  1^0  by  Alfoneo  XI.,  whence  called  Lm  RhU 
La  M  Mn,  el  Farol,  or  beacon-tower,  was 
erected  by  the  Conde  de  Tendilla  to  guide  the 
Christian  prisoners  who  might  escape  from  the 
Mooim.  A  mountain  defile  to  the  left  leads  to 
Jaen.  Ckise  to  lOora.  which  is  left  to  the 
right,  on  a  hill,  the  Sierra  Nevada  is  first  seen, 
and  die  Vega  de  Granada  ^ipeais  after  passing 
the  Venta  del  Puertou  It  was  on  the  bridge  of 
Pinos  that  Columbus,  having  been  discouraged 
in  his  offers  of  a  new  world,  was  ptocecding  to 
England,  when  he  was  stopped  by  a  mcieffngcr 
sent  by  Isabela,  who  entrvued  htm  to  come 
bade,  adding  that  die  would  favour  bis  scheme. 
To  the  right  lies  Soto  de  Ronm,  the  estate 
granted  by  Spain  to  the  Duke  of  Wellington, 
and  to  the  left  Sierra  Elvira. 

Brmmck   r$md  from  Bmtnm  U 
fy  Amitfmtrm,  xa  lengues,  one  day's  ride. 

ItiMtTtwy, 

Csbra 3 

Lucena a 

Benaase)i 3 

Antequcra       ....  4 


xa 


Cmkrm^  9000  inbab.,  is  the 
Greek  Aissgros  from  cabra  montds  a  wild 
goat  or  chamois  Its  sierra  is  celebrated  for 
the  production  of  valuable  mrdirinsl  plants, 
and  SOOM  that  win  be  new  to  the  botanist :  also 
far  its  marbles.  Jasper,  and  alabaster.    The 


Simm fcavera)  into  whidi  the  ' Don  QuoHNic' 
hero,  CmhmUtr$  dtl  B^$qmt  leapt,  is  close  by. 
It  is  about  X40  yards  long  mmI  was  *«y«*^  in 
X84X,  when  nothing  was  found  but  frogs. 
.SXrUr.~The  Plasa  de  Armas  is  worthy  of  a 
visiL  The  tower  of  Homenage  was  buflt  in 
the  X4th  century.  In  the  Churdi  debs  Ascen- 
sion (formerly  a  mosque)  era  soom  curious 
pesos.  Ask  for  the  Virgen  de  U  Soledad.  by 
Juan  de  Mcna,  and  a  Saviour  in  silver.  The 
extinct  crater  of  Los  Hoyones  and  the  Oieva 
de  Jarcas  wiU  interest  geologists.  The  fruit 
grown  in  the  ndghbounng  orchards  is  deli- 
cious, and  die  wine  from  the  Pago  de  Rio  Frio 
is  cxoellenL 

Lmetnm, — 17,000  inhab.  This,  the  Roman 
Egitera,  was  granted  with  the  former  dty  by 
Alfonso  XI.  to  his 'arnica.'  The  ogival  dimch 
of  San  Mateo  (1498),  the  home  of  die  Medina- 
oelis,  aro  worthy  of  notice.  It  is  surrounded 
by  fields  and  orchards  trrming  with  fruit  (taste 
the  iqaricotsX  corn,  etc,  and  sheltered  from  the 
N.  wind  by  the  beautiful  Sierra  of  Anoeli. 
Not  for  is  Bmmm^it  with  a  fine  bridge  built 
1556  by  the  Mariscal  Diego  de  Bernin  Onaise. 
The  rest  of  the  route  is  asost  uninteresting. 

N.B.—Thcn  aro  galcras,  and  dn.  fittle 
better,  from  Seville  to  T^iccna,  Benameji,  and 
Antequcra,  which  leave  on  diiu  im^rts  at  5 
A.M.    OlSoes,  Plan  dd  Duque. 

From  SevUU  to  Cfranada, — ^The  most 
direct  and  shortest  is  by  Cordova,  Bay- 
I611,  and  Jaen  ;  another  one  is  hj  Cadis, 
steamer  to  Almeria,  and  thenoe  hj  small 
diL  (see  Almeria)  to  Cadis,  and  steamer 
to  Malaga.  The  last  is  by  four  days' 
ride  and  carriage  combined,  across  wild 
scenery,  bad  roads,  and  the  backward 
small  towns.  Of  Osona,  Qandul,  La 
Rods  are  the  chief  towns. 

IHntrmry.  Leagues. 

Seville  to  Alcali  de  Guadaira  .  a 

Mairena a 

Marchena 5 

Osuna 5 

Pedren 3 

LaRoda a 

MoUina a 

Aniequero  .       •  a 

Ventas  de  Archidona  •  a 

Loja  •  9 

Lachar     .....  4 

Santa  Ftf  .  •  • 

Granada  .       •  •       .  • 

36 


GRANADA — BOUTEb. 


169 


Theroadf  are  Iwd^  espedillyin  winter, 
wlien  dfl.  {po  to  Soys,  whence  by  the 
Herreim,  dtaated  i  leegaee  from  Boda 
end  M oUine.  A  new  carretera  will  be 
soon  opened,  which  leares  the  old  one 
at  Alcali  de  Qnadaira,  and  will  join  the 
one  from  Granada  to  Malaga  at  4  klL 
from  Loja.  The  diL,  or  rather  galera, 
takes  six  days  to  perform  the  jonmey ; 
bat  sleep  the  first  night  at  Osnna,  and 
the  second  at  Antequera,  that  is  two 
long  days'  ride,  anid  take  diL  from 
Antequera  or  from  Loja — the  laiger 
ones  that  ran  between  Malaga  and 
Granada. 

Dncri/Hm  ff  R^mU,  —  hmv  SevOto  bj 
Poetta  de  GunoiuL  Follow  the  aqoedact, 
AkmUde  Gmmdmirm,  wly*  called  do  loo  Paao* 
deros,  becante  all  Serille  proridot  itaelf  with 
the  fafoad  made  bore;  7000  inhab.,  on  rifht 
bank  of  the  Guadaua.  It  was  reboflt  by  the 
Alaahade  Moon.  The  towon  of  its  castle  are 
a  Teiy  luteiestiin  ipeciinca  01  Moorish  Builitaiy 
architecture.  It  was  the  land-kej  of  SeriUe, 
and  surrendered  to  St  Ferdinand  on  Sept.  ei, 
.  S46,  when  its  Moorish  garrison,  composed  of  the 
King  of  Jean's  troops,  tnutofoosly  turned 
agsinst  their  own  race  wiuun  the  city.  Tnere 
b  Uttle  to  see,  beyond  the  church  of  San  Sebas- 
tian, lor  the  sake  of  the  pictures  by  Pacheco, 
Vdasqnes*s  fitther-in^w ;  that  of  Santiago  pos- 
senes  a  liao  Puigatoffio  painted  by  the  same, 
and  the  coorent  of  Sta.  Qara  contains  a  good 
retablo  and  six  small  basst-rdieri  by  Montanes. 
AkaU  de  Guadaira  (in  Arsb,  the  castle  of  the 
river  AJn),  supplies  Seville  with  bread,  aMist 
delicioos,  whofesoose,  and  wdl-faaked,  and  with 
water,  for  which  the  hiU  has  been  peiibrsted 
with  tunuebsooMS  leagues  long.  The  works 
are  Roman  and  Moorish :  the  aqueduct  called 
Gsios  de  Csmona  is  cairied  on  400  arches. 
The  valley  of  the  Guadaira  is  pleasant,  the 
chamte  soft  and  ddidons,  and  so  salubrious  that 
con vaK  see  uts  are  often  sent  thithsryiefw  /mwm* 
immim,  A  little  to  the  N.E.  of  Alcali  is 
Gaundul,  with  its  pictutetque  Moorish  castl^ 
aand  p^ms  and  orange  groves.  We  pass 
Mmtrmm^  iHiere  Htnt/trim  takes  place  every 
year  on  April  ssth,  s6tli,  and  STth,  when  it  is 
tht  rendetvouB  of  pHihines  (horse-deslen), 


gitanos,and  m^)os;  the  Csmona  road  is  left 
on  the  left,  and  Mmrdktttm  is  reached. 

Marchena  was  the  seat  of  the  powerful  house 
of  Aroos  (better  known  to  the  Spanidi  reader 
as  Ponce  de  Leon).  Tberearesdllafeweubos 
and  turrets,  only  remains  of  the  fenner  formid- 
able fortifications  of  the  Moon.  The  pahwio 
of  the  Dukes  of  Aroos  is  sadly  neglected.  Ob- 
serve  its  fine  fii^ade  of  the  15th  century,  with 
its  richly  ornamented  square  portal,  and  its 
escutcheon  with  the  two  Herculeses  and  lion. 
There  are  soom  rooott  with  fine  artesonado 
ceilings,  a  shady  garden  widi  fountains  and 
poiKls,etc  The  Oiurch  of  Sta.  Maria,  which 
is  opposite,  is  Gothic ;  it  has  three  naves:  the 
interior  indifferent,  and  the  boveda  ill  pointed 
The  principal  bcade  and  lateral  one  on  the  left 
of  San  Juan  looks  most  Oriental  with  its  asu- 
lejoe,  alminares,  etc  The  interior  is  divided 
into  five  naves ;  the  high  akar  dates  of  decline 
of  Gothic,  but  is  moot  effKtive ;  the  pictures 
are  of  no  merit  Thereisafinecustodia(isS6) 
by  Frandsoo  AUara  Thedrcssof  the  women 
bcurious. 

{7MIM.— X7,ooo  inhab.  Imu:  Del  CafaaOo 
Blanco  and  Del  Rosaria  The  seat  of  one  of 
the  moot  noble  houses  in  Europe,  hi  caoa  de 
GiiQO,  of  which  the  Duke  of  Osuft  b  the  head. 
This,  the  Roman  Geauna  Urbanorum,  was 
taken  from  the  Moon  in  is4o^  and  given  by 
PhUtp  II.  to  Don  Ptodro  TeUes  Giron,  and  it 
becaoM  the  appanage  of  hb  Csnuly.  The  Col- 
Iq^iate  Ouirch  was  built  in  1534,  by  a  Giron, 
who  also  founded  (1549)  the  University.  The 
former  charming  terra  cotta  relievos  on  its  W. 
fiifade  were  de^royed  by  Soult's  soldiers,  great 
iconoclssts  in  their  way.  In  the  letablo  are 
four  pictures  of  Ribera.  See  the  patio  del  Se- 
pulcro,  bemguete-like,  and  a  very  fine  Ovist 
of  Morales,  retouched,  in  the  sacristy.  The 
Pantheon  or  burial-house  of  the  Gtrones,  some- 
what neglected.  Fknrer  amateun  will  do  well 
tokwk  at  the  splendid  camataoa  pinks  here, 
called  rZesvikr. 

Jtn/m.'-A  decent  posada  The  country  be- 
tween Pedrera  and  Venta  de  Archidona  was 
the  scene  of  Jos<  Maria's  fetes. 

Tkavdien  are  advised  to  go  by  Archidona 
to  avoid  bod  roads.  The  track  from  Ante- 
quera to  Edja,  i>^  leagues,  runs  through  Edja, 
and  b  not  advisable.  TheVentade 
Cort^  de  Ceresal,  and  Venta  de  Cobaleai 
Jos<  Maria's  fevourile  haunts,  and  are 
fessnd  in  bandido  ff»*mU     Pmfect 


aRAHABA. 
GRANADA. 


dyAm,  ■  PoBCfTUkic,  'Cnaada'  b  Sfvah,  « 


Hot«U.— 1.  A  In  ^IllVU^  TE17 
mil  litiwtad,  clow  to  thg  Alamedkuid 
Curen  da  Qenll ;  good  accomniad*- 
tlon,  furcniiiiia,  attenduiM  JDdiSereiit, 
good  ezponire  for  winter ;  Htudl  uid 
Urge  ap*rtaeiit«)  bedroom  an  tbe  patio, 
2Er.,  aU  inclDdtd  ;  ntting-room  ditto, 
SSr.;  bedroom  on  tbe  itreet,  SCr.; 
dtting-rooin,  4Dr.  Fira-pluta  in  moat 
Moma  i  c1«an  bed*  and  comrortable 
roonu:  It  hat  tbe  luconTeuieuM  of  ■ 
Ttaj  noiay  coffee-room  in  the  Interior 
ofthehonaeL  Table  dliate  at  fi  p.m., 
12r.  a  head  ;  good  pale  ale,  porter,  Kida- 
water,  etc     French  apoken. 

Z  Ot  la  VUieria,  In  a  aqoare  doae 
to  Catrets  de  Oenil;  good  rooma  and  a 
•nrj  laigB  Mloon  ;  good  expocore  Tor 
•waniw,  wid  In  winter,  centnl  litna- 
tion.  Chaigea  aame  ■•  in  the  [otvioiu. 
TaUe  d'hat«  at  G  p.  m.  tot  12r. ;  marble 
bath*,  Br.,  linen  Included.  A  quiet 
hoUl,  cuiaine  and  attendance  good. 

B.  IbndatUH'.lrmf.eiomloBeiar 
Oalderon'a  handaome  rilla.  A  nuall 
hotel  in  the  groanda  of  the  Alhamfam 
haa  the  advantage  of  being  aitoated 
eloae  to  the  Alhambn  and  Generalire, 
Id  an  arenne,  and  pleaaant  in  lommer. 


Small    TMuna,  ill*(tollilhed ;    ehaigca 
tnodaiata. 

Lodgingi;  ffoutu  (0  Mrt—Va  do 
not  reoommeod  tonriata  to  atop  at  any 
caiu  de  pupiloa  (the  beat,  howerer,  it 
that  oppoeile  the  Hotel  de  la  Victoria, 
llr.  I«  20r.,  ereiything  included],  for 
all  ia  diacomfort  and  fllth.  There  an 
aereral  fine  large  honaca  to  let  be- 
longing to  the  nobility ;  bnt  we  adriae 
oar  readcTi  moat  atrongly,  if  they  should 
intend  making  any  aqjoura,  to  take  a 
Till*  near  the  Alhambra. .  Villaa  bete 
an  called  cdrmeiu*  (oarmtii,  afngnlar), 
from  kirm,  Arabic^  a  vineyard.  The 
cicerone*  nanally  know  of  thoae  nnoe- 
cupied,  althoo^  it  must  be  borne  in 
mind  that  they  are  in  the  intereat  of 
the  hotel*.  They  are  often  let  nnftir- 
niahed,  but  hiring  (kiniitnre  ia  cbcap 
and  eaiy  ;  beMden  little  la  leqnired  in 
inch  a  climate  aa  this.  Wecan  recom- 
mend a  c&rmen  called  de  DLmara  or  do 
San  Antonio,  cloae  to  the  Tone*  Ber- 
mejai,  where  aerenl  Euglith  familiea 
hare  lived.  Tha  hooae  ia  imall  but 
comfortable;  there  an  portion*  orna- 
mented in  the  ityle  of  the  Alhambra. 
It  waa  here  Lady  Louiaa  Teniaon  t«- 


GRANADA. 


171 


Mtd  tot  a  long  time;  the  mentloni  it 
in  her  'Gbstile  and  Andelndi,  and 
•ays  :  '  A  more  charming  place  than 
this  for  a  enmmer  reeidence  it  woold 
be  diifiealt  to  leleot ;  and  its  Tidnity 
to  the  Alhamhra  enabled  na  to  ei\joj 
the  latter  without  the  fatigne  of  as- 
cending to  it  from  the  town.'  The 
QSoaltermsarefiOOr.  (sboat£5)a-m<mth 
Inmished. 

0(^(te-Bimie$.^Cal[i  Soiso^  at  the 
Alsmeda  HoteL  ^odbert.— Sis.  J.  M. 
Bodrignes  y  Aoosta,  correspondents  of 
London  and  Westminster  Bank. 

Local  ChUda  {inUrpnU$).'-Tht  best 
are  Ferri  and  Benssken  (the  fiither). 
They  are  to  be  heard  of  at  the  Ala- 
meda HoteL  The  nsnal  chaiges  are  1 
dnro  the  whole  day,  or  half  dnro  for 
partof  onsk 

Gmidsi  for  SBCuniom*,  —  Charges, 
$14  to  $2  a^y  for  gmd^  all  in- 
dnded  except  hofse^  and  16r.  to  20r. 
per  horse  per  day,  keep  and  stable 
indnded.  Biding  horses,  12r.  to  16r. 
a-day. 

Fo«tOflo« — ^Piasade  SanAgostin; 
entrsnce  by  a  small  door  in  the  comer 
to  the  left  of  the  boilding. 

Telegr^h*— Oalle  de  la  .  Dnqnesa 
Ko.  14,  second  floor,  daily;  8r.  any 
telegram  within  Spain. 

CbrHoflW.— No  stands  or  csbs ;  ca- 
Ikhes  hked  by  the  daj,  60r.  ;  reiy 
good  oarrisges  for  promenades  and  tia- 
Telling  at  Pargas',  Na  8,  Galloon  de 
San  Joan  de  Dice. 

EngUih  Fie$'Ckm$Ml'-Ux,  Qeoige 
Williams. 

<}«neral  Description.— Oranada, 
like  Toledo,  Bmgos^  Oriedo,  and  most 
Spanish  towns,  is  now  bat  a  dull,  nn- 
SMisl,  depopulated  and  inert  prorin- 
dal  capitaL  There  is  about  it,  not- 
withstuiding  its  ^nn  and  sky,  an  air  of 
stillness  and  decay,  a  monmfol  silence, 
so  peenliarly  noticeable  that  the  mind 
is  filled  wiUi  sad  rereries,  and  almost 
led  to  sigh  f <»th  rcyiret  for  the  departed 


Goth  or  Hoor,  who  left  no  heirs  of 
their  graatness  behind  them.  Indeed, 
the  whole  of  Spain  is  now  bat  a  Tsst 
cemetery,  wherein  the '  directs  membra' 
of  the  dead  past  lie  buried  in  cities 
which  are  like  so  many  tombs.  Gra- 
nada is  thns  truly  a  liring  rain,  but  as 
the  widowed  capital  of  the  Moor  full 
of  interest  It  carries  us  back  from  the 
preeent  to  the  sge  of  Ibn-1-Ahmar  and 
of  Yusuf,  to  the  roluptuous  magnifi- 
cence of  their  eastern  palaces. 

This  dtf  stsnds  on  four  hills,  which 
are  difided  somewhat  like  a  pome- 
granate, and  rises  to  the  hei^t  of 
8246  ft  abore  the  sea.  It  is  situated 
at  the  extremity  of  a  Tory  extensiTe  and 
beautiful  plain  (T^ga),  and  intersected 
by  the  rirersDoryv  (called  by  the  Moors 
Hadar^),  the  Boman  (Uom,  and  the 
CfmU  or  Singilis  of  the  andenta.  The 
town  extends  in  an  amphitheatre  from 
the  rirer,  dothing  the  gradual  ascent 
of  the  hills,  which  are  crowned  by  the 
Alhambra.  The  plain,  dotted  now  and 
then  with  sparkling  whitewashed  Tillss 
like  so  many  ssili^  stretches  to  tlie  base 
of  the  distant  mountains,  composed  of 
the  mijestic  Sierra  Ncfada  (the  Zdair 
of  the  Arabe),  which,  with  towering 
snowy  heights  and  Alpine  peaks,  con- 
trsst  beautifnlly  with  the  deep  blue  sk  j 
aboTe  and  the  rich  green  meadows  be- 
neath. To  use  the  metaphoric  expres- 
don  of  the  Grenadine  Arab  poets,  Uieee 
mountains  may  be  compared  to  a  mass 
of  sparkling  mother-of-pearl,  a  picture 
nerer  to  be  fngotten. 

The  N.  portion  of  the  dty,  which  was 
built  after  the  conquest  is  called  Barrio 
de  San  lAiaro;  Uie  prindpal  street 
Oslle  Beal,  leads  to  the  Osrtiga.  Here, 
were  erected  dwellings  for  the  Moors, 
and  barracks  for  troops  to  watch  their 
moTcments.  The  Albaicin,  so  called 
from  the  fbgitires  fhmi  Baeza  (when 
their  dty  was  taken  by  St  Ferdinand, 
1227),  is  dtuatedon  a  hill  doee  to  the 
former  barrio.    It  once  contained  about 


172 


GRANADA. 


10,000in]ia.bitant8,aiid  beMitifiil  houses 
and  gardens.  In  the  centre  wis  a  mag- 
nificent moeqne,  of  which  there  are  still 
some  restiges  in  the  coortyard  dose  to 
the  Church  of  San  Salyador.  The 
Hoots  carried  a  stream  from  the  Al- 
lacar  to  the  reiy  heights  of  this  hill, 
and  provided  the  houses  with  fountains 
and  a  supply  of  water  for  the  Tines  and 
gardens  on  the  terraced  slopes.  It  is 
now  a  ruinous  locality,  inhabited  by 
the  poor.  Another  and  rery  early  por- 
tion constitutes  the  Aleomaba,  a  line  of 
fortresses  formerly  called  E^idima,  or 
the  New ;  the  castleof  Hysn-Al-Rroman 
stood  here,  and  there  are  some  remains 
of  the  andeut  walls  at  the  Puerta 
Monaita.  Ascend  the  height  of  San 
Christoval  to  obtain  a  good  view  of  the 
walls  and  euJbo*  that  extend  from  the 
Paerta  Monaita  to  the  Plaza  Laiga. 
The  district  of  AniequenUla  hangs  over 
the  Genii,  and  was  so  called  because 
assigned  to  the  Moors  who  fled  from 
Anteqnera  in  1110.  The  Churra,  or 
Mauror  (Arabic^  district  of  the  water- 
carriers),  was  also  dose  by  it,  and  on 
the  dopes  of  the  hill  crowned  with  the 
Alhambra.  The  new  portion  of  the 
dty  lies  at  the  base  of  the  different 
hills.  There  is  little  or  nothing  Euro- 
pean about  the  old  town,  and  the 
Eastern,  Moro-Anddusian  aspect  of  its 
houses  guarded  with  rcgas,  Uie  many- ' 
coloured  awnings  stretched  in  summer 
oyer  the  balconies  the  patios  with 
fountains  and  orange-trees  are  Tery 
characteristio.  Many  of  the  houses  are 
gaudily  painted  outside,  the  effect  of 
which  is  not  generally  displeasing;  the 
streets  are  n^er  lanes,  are  purposely 
narrow  and  winding;  to  keep  out  the 
arrowy  sunbeams  of  June  and  July. 
The  new  portion  has  been  awkwardly 
built  with  wide  streets  and  birdcage- 1 
likehouses,  with  an  infinity  of  windows.  : 
The  prindpal  streets  are,  y^icatin,  Car- 
rera  dd  Daro,  and  Oalle  ReaL  The  , 
Dano  flows  undsr  the  Plan  Nuera,  in-  | 


tersects  the  town,  and  Joins  the  Genii 
at  the  extremity  of  the  Carrera  and 
Accra  de  GeniL 

The  dimate  is  wholesome,  the  water 
ddidous  and  slightly  aperient,  the 
markets  wdl  prorided,  especially  with 
regetablesand  exquisite  fruit,  and  liring 
is  yeiy  dieap. 

The  name  may  hare  been  originally 
applied  by  the  Widgoths,  who  probably 
rebuilt  and  enlarged  the  primitiTe  for- 
tress. Caddini,ToLii.;Maccari,ToLL, 
both  dted  in  Doiy's  '  Reoherohes,'  say— 
Gamftthameans  nrnimofia  (pomegranate 
in  Arabic)  in  the  Spanish  tongue.  Of 
the  Wisigothic  period,  the  only  im- 
portant remains  are  the  consecration- 
dabs  of  some  churches  built  by  the 
Wisigoth,  Gidula,  between  the  years 
594  and  607.  They  were  found  on  the 
dte  now  occupied  by  the  Church  of  Sta. 
Maria  de  la  Alhambra,  and  have  been 
placed  on  its  southern  facade.  The 
diurches  mentioned  on  the  slabs  were 
dtuated  in  a  portion  of  the  dty,  pro- 
bably the  earliest,  called  Katirola. 

Sights.— 1.  The  Alhambra,  Gene- 
ralife,  and  Moorish  remains.  2.  Catho- 
drd  and  Capilla  de  los  Reyes.  8.  Car- 
tqja,  churches,  hospitals,  public  and 
private  edifices.    4.  Zacatin,  Alcaiceria, 

0cUh4draL — 8  a.m.  to  12  p.m.,  and 
2  p.  M.  to  4  p.  M.  To  be  shown  it  apply 
to  the  sacristan ;  hours,  2  p.m.  to  4  p.m. 
High  mass,  with  organ  and  chanting, 
on  Sundays,  at  10  A.M. 

CbpiUs  <ii2otJi0ye«.— 9  a.m.  toll  A.M. 
and  after  4  p.m.  Apply  to  the  sexton 
at  the  spedd  sacristy  of  this  church. 

Cmrtuick — Closes  late  in  the  day. 
Apply  to  one  of  the  sextons. 

OmMrdlif*, — Open  all  day.  Apply 
to  the  gardener. 


SuFUm 

qftks 
Atkambra, 


The  Alhambra.— Openfrom  10  AJI. 


A-*r  BUci,  WaWrjfl. 


GRANADA — ^ALHAHBRA. 


173 


to  12  P.M.,  and  2  p.m.  to  4  p.m.  A  fee 
(aaySfr.)  to  the  concieige  is  usually 
giyen  for  the  first  yisit»  bat  need  not 
be  repeated. 

SUuatiatL—Tht  Alhambra  is  sitoated 
to  the  extreme  K.  of  the  town,  and  be- 
tween  the  Dairo  and  Genii,  which  it 
dindes,  rises  a  long  single  ridge,  called 
£1  Cerro  del  Sol,  and  also  de  Sta.  Elina. 
At  a  point  called  La  Silla  del  Moro, 
which  is  dose  to  Generalife,  the  Cerro 
slopes  downwards,  and  after  being  deft 
in  twain  by  a  wooded  rayine,  is  inter- 
sected by  a  long  avenue  of  elm-trees. 
It  then  spreads  out  into  two  tablelands 
or  extensire  terraces,  bordered  by  pre- 
dpitous  ravines.    On  the  western  ter- 
race stands   the  Alhambra,  its  base 
washed  by  the  Darro.      The  Torres 
Berm^as  rise  on  the  extreme  point  of 
the  eastern  esplanade,  occupied,  further- 
more, by  the  Campo  de  loe  Martires, 
the  declivities  of  which,    being  less 
violent  than  those  of  the  one  opposite, 
fail  gently  towards  the  town,  a  part  of 
whidi  they  become.    These  two  terraces 
were  fonneriy  girt  by  walls  and  towers, 
and   connected  witii    each  other  by 
winding,  and,  maybe,  walled-in  lanes. 
Within  this  fortified  drcuit  stood  the 
palaces  and  villas  of  the  Ealifs  of  Gra- 
nada, as  wdl  as  the  prindpal  fortresses ; 
and  so  numerous  were  the  buildings 
dustering  on  these  heights  that  it  was 
called  a  city— MedinUi  alh^mra.    The 
magnificent  palace  of  the  Alijareif  ode- 
braied  for  its  gardens,  was  situated  not 
tar  from  Generalife,  and  dose  to  a  sum- 
mer villa,  Daralharoca  (Arabic^  the 
Bride's  Mansion).     Beddes  those  and 
the  Dar-Al-Wad,  or   Palace   on  the 
Biver,  Chftteau  d'Eau,  where  there  was 
an  aviary -—on  which  account  it  is  called 
by  Marmol  'Gasa  de  las  Gallinas'— there 
were  many  other  villas  bdonging  to  the 
sultans  and  their  court,  all  dtuated 
without   the   fortifications ;  but  the 
HMhira»  or  Court  of  the  Kdifa,  within 


the  walls  and  on  the  western  plateau, 
constituted  the  Alhambra  proper,  or 
what  is  still  often  called  'La  Cbsa 
Real* 

JlitianaU  JVbMes.— The  name  Alham- 
bra is  a  very  early  one,  anterior  to  the 
palace  that  we  fiuniliarly  call  sa  As 
early  as  A.D.  864-6  it  is  mentioned  in 
Ibn-l'  Alabbar's  biography  of  Suwar 
Ibn  HamdJln  (who  Commanded  the 
Arabs  against  the  bed^ging  forces  of 
Mulades  and  Hostlurabes).  In  some 
verses  copied  by  the  same,  which  were 
composed  by  Said  Bbn  Chndi,  and  ad- 
dressed by  him  to  Suwar,  he  praises  the 
latter  for  having  erected  the  Bed  CfadUf 
Kal'at  Al-hamr& ;  and  during  the  dege 
already  mentioned,  the  bedegers  one 
day  shot  over  the  walls  an  arrow,  to 
which  was  tied  a  paper  with  the  fd- 
lowing  verses^  whidi  were  written  by 
Abderrhaman  Ibn  Ahmed  of  Abla : — 

Deserted  and  noflets  ere  the  houses  ^of  oar 
enemies),  swept  by  the  wluHwinds  cf  dnt  that 
the  tempestuous  winds  laise  upu 

Let  them  within  the  rtd  auiU  hold  their 
mischiefous  councOs ;  die  dangers  of  war  and 
woe  surround  them  on  erery  side. 

The  sons  of  those  that  our  lances  transfixed  on 
their  tottering  waOs  will  also  disappear,  etc.* 

The  author  asserts  that  he  was  told 
this  fact  by  one  Obada,  who  in  his 
turn  had  obtained  the  intelligence  from 
an  eys-witness.  This  Ed'at  Alhsmri 
may  be  no  other  than  the  Torres  Bar- 
mq'as  (Red  Towers),  which  were  pro- 
bably so  called  when  they  were  used 
by  tiie  Jews  as  a  fortress,  the  name 
being  derived  from  the  colour  of  the 
ferruginous  tapia-work.  In  A.D.  1019- 
20,  Habus  Ibn  MAkesen  erected  a  Eas- 
s2^bah,  or  fortified  endosure— which  this 
Arab  word  signifies— which  stood  on  the 
W.  dde  of  the  town,  over  the  Puerta 
de  Elvira,  and  was  called  Eluiimah,  or 

the  'old'  to  distinguish  it  from  the 

■ 

*  Ibn  Hayirin  'History  of  Mohammedan 
Spain,'  Bodleiaa  Ubnuy,  Hunt  Mo.  4^ 


174 


GRANADA— ALHAMBRA. 


Jedidlkh,  or  'new'  one,  bnUt  hj  BkUa, 
hie  eucoeseor  (1087-8  A.D.)f  and  which 
extended  from  the  fonner  to  the  Dana 
The  Alcaxaba,  properly  so  called,  formed 
part  of  the  Kassabkh  erected  by  BJkdis 
Ibn  Habna,  within  which  this  king; 
haying  remored  his  oonrt  frtmi  Elyira 
to  Granada,  nsoally  resided  with  his 
wadrs  and  officers,  and  it  subsequently 
continued  to  be  the  plaee  of  residence 
appointed  to  the  goyemors  of  Granada. 
This  Kassab4h  receiyed  in  addition  to 
its  appellation  of  Al-hamrA,  the  name 
of  the  Eal'at  (now  Torres  Berm^as 
Fortress)  which  ooold  be  as  justly 
appUed  to  all  the  buildings  within  this 
Medinldi,  as  the  colour  of  the  earth  on 
and  with  which  they  were  built,  was 
eventually  the  same,  owing  to  the  pre- 
sence of  oxide  of  iron. 

The  founder  of  the  Hasrite  dynasty, 
Ibn-1-Ahmar,  enlarged  considerably  the 
former  palace  erected  by  Bi^dis,  within 
the  Ksiwab^h,  and  built  a  new  portion, 
which  he  determined  should  surpass 
in  magnificence  the  most  celebrated 
edifices  of  the  kind  in  Damascus,  Fes, 
and  Baghdad.  The  works  began  about 
1248,  and  the  palace  was  called  Easru- 
l-hamrA,  whidi  means  the  Sultan's 
Mansion  (Kaar  being  a  corruption  of 
Kaiser,  0«sar)  or  Uie  palace  of  the 
Alhambra.  llius  it  is  as  erroneous  to 
suppose  that  the  name  comes  from  this 
prince's  (as  it  would  then  hare  been 
called  Kasr-al-hamri)  as  it  is  that  he 
was  the  origin  of  the  Al-hamares ;  in- 
deed no  sudi  tribe  or  dan  erer  existed. 
Ibn-1-Ahmar's  son  and  successor,  Mo- 
hammed II.,  continued  his  fSi^er's 
work,  and  repaired  the  fortifications  of 
the  Castle  of  Torres  Bennejas ;  according 
to  Ibnu-1-Khattib^  the  royal  historio- 
grapher of  Granada,  'he  added  con- 
siderably to  the  building,  and  larished 
his  treasures  upon  the  several  artists  he 
empbyed  to  decorate  its  gilded  halls.' 
Isma'il  Ibn  Fang  (1800)  built  the  UtUe 


mosque  withm  the  palace.  Yusuf  L 
(Abu-l-haj4j)>  ob.  1854,  whose  revenues 
were  so  vast  that  he  was  reputed  to 
owe  his  riches  to  the  transmutation  of 
metals,  spent  these  on  the  building  of 
many  new  suites  of  apartments  in  the 
palace^  and  in  repaintin|^  gildin^^  and 
repairing  of  the  older  portions.  Ac- 
cording to  Ibnu-1-Khattib^  quoted  by 
Sr.  Gayangoa;  the  gold  was  procured 
frxim  the  interior  of  Africa,  and  beaten 
into  thin  strips ;  the  expense  of  the 
new  works  and  repairs  exceeded,  says 
the  same  author,  the  bounds  of  calcula- 
tion. 

After  the  surrender  of  Granada,  the 
Oatholio  kings  remained  but  a  very 
short  time  at  the  Alhambra,  which  b^ 
came  the  property  of  the  crown,  formed 
an  independant  Jurisdiction,  and  a 
separate  parish.  When  they  left,  they 
intrusted  its  custody  to  Don  Ifiigo 
Lopez  de  Mendoza,  Count  of  Tendilla, 
who  had  been  appointed  governor  or 
alcaide  on  the  very  day  of  the  surrender 
of  the  Moors.  Under  Isabella  and 
Ferdinand,  the  monks  and  soldiers  who 
were  left  in  and  around  the  mosques 
and  fortresses  of  the  hated  Moor,  who 
had  threatened  their  altars  and  diluted 
their  castles  for  so  many  centuries, 
vented  their  spite  and  hatred  upon  the 
inoffensive  stone  and  iron.  The  open- 
work was  filled  up  with  whitewash,  the 
painting  and  gilding  effaced,  the  furni- 
ture soiled,  torn,  removed,  and  never 
replaced.  Charles  Y.  rebuilt  portions 
in  the  modem  style  of  the  period,  and 
destroyed  the  greatest  part  of  the 
Winter  Palaoe,  the  latter  to  make  room 
for  his  intended  and  never  finished 
palace.  Philip  Y.  Italianised  the  rooms, 
and  completed  the  degradation  by  run- 
ning up  partitions  which  blocked  up 
whole  rooms,  gems  of  taste  and  patient 
ingenuity,  and  concealed  the  Tarkiah 
and  azulejos  under  such  deep  coats  of 
whitewash  that  the  pickaxe  is  necessary 


GRANADA— ALHAMBRA. 


175 


to  remoTe  it.  It  became  rabeeqaentl j 
an  Myluin  for  debton  and  state 
pfiaonen ;  the  French  in  1810-13  tuned 
it  into  harraoki  and  magatinee  for 
their  troopa.  The  magnificent  Mooriah 
moaqne,  Ife^id  A^ami,  that  waa  bnitt 
by  Mohammed  IIL  in  the  earlj  part  of 
the  14th  oentorj,  waa  deetroyed  by  the 
French.  According  to  Ibnn-1-Khattib 
it  waa  conaidered  to  hare  no  lival  in 
the  world.  The  French  blew  np  acTeral 
towera,  and  if  the  whole  Alham1»a  which 
they  had  mined  waa  not  blown  np,  it 
waa  not  their  merit,  bat  dne  to  the 
coorage  of  a  corporal  of  inTalidoa,  who 
pot  ont  the  fnaeea.  The  gobernadores, 
before  and  after  thii  period,  nntU  re- 
cently, speoolated  on  the  intereat  and 
eorioaity  that  waa  daily  awakening  for 
the  Alhambra,  and  made  their  fortnnee, 
aelling  what  conld  be  eaaily  remored, 
and  aU  went  on  ftat  to  ntter  rain.  In 
1842,  by  the  care  of  the  Progresiata 
miuater,  ArgaeUee^  a  ndaerable  aom 
waa  destined  from  the  qoeen's  privy 
parae  for  repaira ;  aomewhat  later  the 
aam  of  10,00ar.  (£100)  waa  aaaigned 
and  ill  paid.  Thinga  now,  howerer, 
looked  bri^^ter ;  and  on  her  Tiait  to 
Granada,  which  took  place  in  1888,  the 
Qaeen  laabelle  waa  so  atrock  with  her 
Tiiit  to  the  Alhambra  that  ahe  de- 
termined to  repair  and  reatore  it  aa 
mnch  aa  poaaible  to  ita  former  atate, 
and  enacted  meaaorea  calcolated  to 
realiae  that  royal  and  generooa  reaola- 
tion. 

The  repaira  were  entroated  to  Sr.  Don 
Rafael  Oontreraa^  a  natiTe  of  Granada, 
iHioee  aeal  and  patriotic  enthoaiaam 
towarda  the  completion  of  thia  work  can 
only  be  compared  with  hia  perfect  know- 
ledge and  acqaaintance  with  Mooriah 
art  Mach  haa  been  already  achiered, 
and  in  a  manner  hi^y  creditable. 
The  Patio  de  k  Alberoa,  Sala  de  De- 
acanao,  and  Sala  de  laa  Doa  Hermanaa 
are  finianed,  and  likewin  aereral  por- 


tiona  in  the  Hall  of  Comaiea  or  Ambaa- 
aadora,  CoancQ  Hall  (del  Tribonaiy, 
and  Orart  of  Lbna ;  and  he  haa  bat 
recently  foand  oat,  ao  to  apeak,  another 
beaatiM  haU,  the  walla  of  which,  ex* 
qaisitely  painted  and  gilt,  were  con- 
cealed nnder  plaater.  (For  detaila  td 
decoration,  atyle,  etc,  need  by  the 
Moor%  see  General  Information ;  Areki' 
i§dur§  o/tk$  Arabt,) 

St^U,^Th»  general  atyle  of  the  Al- 
hambra belcnga  to  the  third  period 
of  Mooriah  aidiitectare.  It  is  want- 
ing in  that  onity  of  deaign,  typical 
forma,  lottj  inapiration,  and  breadth, 
for  which  the  Moaqne  of  OordoTa 
and  other  edificea  of  that  time  are 
ao  remarkable.  The  eariy  phaae  in 
Mooriah  art,  of  which  the  la^  were 
the  growth,  aroae  with  a  pecnliar 
atate  of  driliaation,  mariced  by  an 
aacetic  and  atem  apirit  which  ahonned 
Tain  omament,acomed  friTdoaa  effecta, 
and  aooght  rather  Taat  proportiona,  - 
aimplicity,  harmony,  atrength — tme 
aigna  of  power  and  genioa.  Kow,  at 
the  time  when  the  Alhambra  waa 
raiaed,  the  diiaolation  of  the  Modem 
empire  had  already  began,  and  en- 
gendered a  aimilar  atate  of  decadence 
among  architecta,  and  obliyioii  of  the 
primary  prindplea  of  their  art  Thoa 
whilst  the  edificea  of  Gordova  were  the 
work  of  an  age  of  moaqoea  and  fort- 
reaaea  (of  conqneat  and  onity  of  laith), 
the  Alhambra  must  be  looked  upon  aa 
the  aalient  example  of  an  age  of  pa- 
laces, which  waa  aiao  one  of  religioaa 
indiflerence.  The  Berber  and  inrading 
Arab  boilt  massiTely  to  root  deeply, 
aa  it  were^  a  new  race,  that  aettled  by 
main  force  in  the  enemy*a  land,  whilat 
the  more  refined  Grenadine,  who  had  be- 
come the  permanent  poaseaaor,  aoaght 
rather  to  embelliah  and  enjoy  the 
dearly-won  kingdom,  peopling  it  with 
marble  palacea,  gardens,  and  grores. 
Exaggeration  in  tibe  ootlinea  of  aroha^ 


176 


GRANADA — ALHAMBRA. 


ezoeM  of  onuunentation  (that  sure  test 
of  docadenoe  in  art),  an  ezoberanoe  of 
reUeri  or  sorfSMse-decorations,  paltry 
proportiona,  generalisation  and  abase 
of  plaster  aiches  and  walls,  ill  conceal 
as  many  reils,  with  the  mde  carpentry 
combined  with  brides  and  reeds.  Sncb 
are  the  most  oharacteristio  defects  in 
the  constroetion  of  the  Alhambra.  On 
the  other  hand,  if  dirested  of  origi- 
nality and  monumental  stone-work,  it 
will  be  preferred  by  the  generality  of 
traTcUers  to  any  other  Moorish  stroo- 
tnre  in  Spain,  for  it  must  be  admitted 
that  it  stands  unriTalled  in  the  gorgeous 
splendour  of  its  haUs,  and  that  no- 
where, nor  at  any  time^  has  its  deoora- 
tire  art  been  exceeded.  This  is  shown 
in  that  taste^  effeminate  elegance,  ex- 
quisite grace,  wonderful  yariety  of  the 
pattema--all  most  cunningly  executed. 
Happy  and  norol  appliances  of  poetical 
concetti  and  Alcoranic  passages  to  en- 
hance and  form  part  of  Uie  ornamenta- 
tion; airy  lightness,  yeil-like  trans- 
parency of  filagree  stucco,  partitions 
colourol  and  ^t  like  the  ddes  of. a 
Stamboul  casket — such,  with  many 
others,  are  the  main  features  of  this 
the  worthy  palace  of  the  Toluptuous 
IrhaHflW  of  Qranada,  who  held  dominion 
orer  the  sunny  land  which  their  poets 
defined  'a  terrestrial  paradise.*  De- 
■criptiona  of  what  it  must  hare  been 
once  can  only  be  found  in  the  '  Arabian 
Nights^'  though  eren  in  this  respect, 
reaUty,  no  doubt,  must  hsTs  beggued 
their  ikntastical  creations. 
.  Brerything  interests  us  in  the  Al- 
hambra,  for  besides  the  intrinsic  Talue 
as  a  monument  of  this  romantic  pile, 
how  many  poetical  legends  of  lore  and 
'  war,  how  many  associations  has  it  with 
stirring  scenes  of  harem  dramas^  politi- 
cal intrigues^  and  bloody  executions. 

Bnirtmeti. — ^The  principal  entrances 
into  ths  Medinah  Alhambra  were  for- 


merly the  Qate  of  the  Law,  of  the 
Seven  Stories  of  the  Catholic  Kings 
of  the  Armoury,  and  Bab-'el-Ujar ; 
that  of  Los  Coches  and  Pnerta  de 
Hiorro  are  modem.  We  shall  proceed 
by  the  steep  Calle  de  los  Oomeles, 
which  is  terminated  by  the  clumsy, 
massiTe  Puerta  de  Iss  Granadas,  so 
called  from  the  pomegranates  that  are 
placed  orer  it,  and  are  the  canting 
arms  of  the  dij.  This  gate,  an  awk- 
ward monument  of  the  Tuscan  style, 
was  built  under  the  reign  and  by  order 
of  Charles  Y.,  when  the  arenues  inside 
were  laid  out,  and  intended  to  lead  up 
to  his  palace.  It  is  on  the  site  of  the 
Moorish  gate  of  Bib^  or  Bab-el-Ujar. 
At  each  extremity  is  a  reclining  figure, 
much  disfigured,  and  intended  to  sym- 
bolise Peace  and  Plenty.  This  oncb 
passed,  we  enter  the  jurisdiction  of  the 
Alhambra.  Three  arenues  lie  before 
us :  the  main  one  in  the  centre  leads 
up  to  Generalife ;  the  narrow  one,  on 
the  right,  winds  up  to  the  Torres  Ber- 
m^as,  which  rise  high  aboTo  in  that 
dii«ction.  By  a  more  precipitous 
ascent  to  the  left»  we  will  proceed  at 
once  to  the  principal  entrance^  the 
Gate  of  Judgment 

Ji.B.—Wt  adyise  tourists,  and  ladies 
especially,  to  go  up  in  a  carriage  as  far 
at  least  as  this  last-named  point,  as  the 
ascent  is  steep  and  lon|^  and  one  ar- 
rives to  the  top  heated  and  fatigued. 
Just  when  all  the  attention  and  activity 
are  required. 

The  grounds  of  the  Alhambra  are 
woody,  and  at  spring-time  fuU  of  sweet- 
scented  wild  flowers,  which  numerous 
rills  of  snow-water,  gushing  from  the 
Siena,  keep  up  green  and  blossoming. 
Flocks  of  nightingales  seek  at  that 
season  the  shade  of  the  secluded 
bowers,  and  their  joyons  songs  blend 
with' the  murmur  of  fountains  and  the 
buss  of  myriads  of  insects.  These  so- 
called  gardens,  weedy  and  ravined  as 


GRANADA — ALHAMBRA. 


177 


thej  be,  are  a  most  channing  leeOTt  in 
the  nitty  hoan  of  apring  and  summer, 
and  a  plaoe  of  untiring  eigoyment. 

Pilar  de  CarUm  V.  (^Mtnlo).— This 
small  and  now  degraded  fountain  ii 
placed  against  the  wall,  dose  to  the 
Gate  of  Justice.  It  was  erected  for  the 
Emperor  Charles  Y.  by  the  then  Al- 
caide of  the  Alhamlwa,  Marquis  of 
Mond^ar.  The  style  is  the  Ghdoo- 
Roman,  or  rather  Tuscan,  which  was 
beginning  to  be  adopted  in  Spain. 
The  stone  is  from  Sierra  ElTira.  The 
crowned  heads  of  the  genii  are  intended 
to  represent  the  Darro,  Genii,  and 
Beiro  which  fertilise  the  r^ga.  Obsenre 
the  escutcheons  of  the  house  of  Monde- 
jar,  and  the  meno-reUero  ornaments, 
the  emperor's  shield,  marine  genii,  dol- 
phins, and  the  columns  of  Hercules. 
The  wall  against  which  it  rests  is  90 
ft.  long  by  16  ft.  high,  and  ornamented 
with  Doric  pillars.  Between  these  are 
four  medallions  with  mythological  sub- 
jects. It  is  a  fine  specimen  of  the 
berrueguete  style,  although  the  Escusar 
stone  being  oTer-porous  and  sandy,  the 
medallions  cannot  be  seen  to  adrantage. 
Juan  de  Mena  was  employed  in  some 
portions,  but  certainly  the  genii  were 
not  his  work.  It  was  completed  in 
1624,  and  has  been  well  repaired  by 
the  governor,  Sr.  Par^o. 

Putria  JwOeiairia  {GaU  rfJwiqmaXi, 
This  is  a  plain,  massiTe,  and  somewhat 
clumsy  monument,  which  senred  as  an 
outwork  to  the  fortress  and  an  arch  or 
entrance-hall  to  the  Alhambra,  but  was 
principally  used  ,as,  and  expressly  built 
for,  an  open-air  court  of  justice,  held, 
as  ususl  in  the  East,  by  Uie  khalife  or 
his  kaid,  whose  duties  as  pontiff  (Emyr- 
al-Moumenjrn,  king  and  chief  magis- 
trate, made  it  incumbent  upon  him  to 
give  audience  to  the  humblest  of  his 
subjects,  settle  disputes,  and  dispense 
judgment  personally.  This  patriut^al 
custom  is  still  preralent  in  most  cities 


in  the  East,  and  was,  with  many  others, 
reoeiyed  by  the  Arabs  firam  the  Hebrews 
('Judges  shalt  thou  make  in  all  thy 
gates,' Dent  zn.  IS;  and  also,  'Then 
he  made  a  porch  where  he  might  judge, 
eren  the  porch  of  judgment,'  1  Kings 
TiL  7.  In  the  book  of  Job  xziz. 
7,  8,  9,  the  patriarchal  magnate  is  re- 
presented as  going  forth  to  the  'gate^' 
amidst  the  respeotfbl  silenoe  of  eklers, 
princes,  and  nobles,  (xxrii.  9,  and 
Ruth  ir.  2).  Hence  came  the  ussge 
of  'la  Sublime  Porte'  in  speaking  of 
the  Goyemment  of  Constantinople, 
being  considered  also  places  of  public 
deliberation  end  halls  to  gire  audience 
to  ambassadors.  ('Eariy  TraTcls*). 
Orer  the  arch  runs  an  inscription 
in  African  letters,  which  records  its 
elevation  by  Abu-l-wUid  Yusu(  and 
the  date,  1848.  It  is  there  called  the 
'  Gate  of  the  Law,'  and  '  a  monument 
of  eternal  glory.'  It  is  one  of  the  many 
buildings  erected  in  the  Alhambra  by 
its  great  decorator,  the  Khalife  Yusuf 
I.,  who  was  their  architect  himselil 
The  tower  is  slmosta  perfect  square, 
measuring  about  47  ft.  wide  by  62  ft 
high.  The  horseshoe  arch  is  28  ft. 
high  to  the  hand  which  is  engraven 
above  it  The  marble  sculptured  pil- 
lars on  each  side  of  the  gate  are  tetmi- 
nated  by  capitals  ornamented  with 
sculpturing,  and  bearing  the  following 
inscription  : —  . 

'  There  ii  no  God  but  Allah  t  Mo- 
hammed is  the  envoy  (prophet)  from 
Al-lah.  There  is  no  power  or  strength 
but  in  Al-lah.' 

The  walls  are  built  with  limestone 
from  Loja  and  Sierra  Elvira  in  concrete 
or  tapia-work.  Over  th^  outer  horse- 
shoe arch  ii  part  of  an  arm,  with  out- 
stretched hand  placed  upwards,  which, 
according  to  some  writers,  is  considered 
typical  of  the  five  principal  tenets  of 
the  Mnssulman's  croed :  1.  Belief  iii 
God  and  Mohammed.    2.  To  pray  (and 


X 


178 


OJtANADA — ^ALHAMBRA. 


aUntioiiB).  8.  To  gbe  almi.  4.  To 
keep  the  ikft  of  RhamaHnn,  5.  Pil- 
grimage to  MeUca  and  Medma.  The 
nomb^  of  the  commandmenta  oorre* 
gponding  with  that  of  the  fingers,  as  we 
read  in  Dent  yL  8,  speaking  of  the 
commandments,  '  And  Uion  shalt  bind 
them  for  a  iign  npon  thine  hand,  and 
they  shall  be  as  frontleta  between  thine 
eyea.'  Bnt  it  is  more  likely  that  the 
hand  was  placed  on  the  entrance,  as  is 
now  the  custom  (and  we  haTe  often  seen 
it  so)  on  every  door  in  Morocco,  to 
avert  the  evil  eye.  Probably  both 
these  meanings  most  be  understood  to 
be  combined  in  this  symbol* 

The  small  image  of  the  Yiigin  in  a 
niche  over  the  arch  is  indi^Terent  and  of 
wood.  Turning  on  the  staircase  before 
the  seoond  doorway  is  the  place  where 
the  khalife  sat  to  give  Judgment 
Here  is  a  guardroom,  and  the  soldiers 
you  see  may  have  been  some  of  the 
brave  Spanish  army,  who  but  a  few 
years  sgo  defeated  the  descendants  of 
the  founders  of  these  very  walls  round 

*Tlut  •upontitioo  WM  almrcd  by  ereiy  natioo 
of  the  earth.    Viigil,  in  his  third  ^Eneid,  say* : 


Neadoquis 


.    Vix  oenbat  haroat : 
ocnlus  oiihi  fincimt  afooe. 


And  there  wm  ebo  the  tupentitioD  coooerniag 
knots  mede  in  e  pnrticuhu-  nuuiner,  end  siiid  to 
heve  been  breathed  upon  by  Jevish  sorcerers 
Mohanuaed  himself  was  bewitched  by  a  Jew, 
who  held  a  thread  over  a  well  with  eleven  knots 
on  it ;  the  mystery  of  which  was  revealed  to 
him  by  the  angel  Gabriel,  and  which  led  to  his 
writing  the  tijth  and  114th  Suras,  calkd  '  the 
preserving.'  These  were  inscribed  on  amulets, 
and  hung  lound  the  neck.  The  fifst  acted  as  a 
ulisman  against  evils  to  the  body,  and  the  se- 
cond preserved  the  soul  from  aU  danger.  Similar 
hands  in  coral,  sufficiently  small  to  wear  round 
the  neck,  are  found  in  Naples ;  apd  in  Tangier, 
Tetouan,  and  other  cities  in  Morocco,  rings  and 
ear^gs  are  sold  with  a  golden  or  ^ver  hand 
upon  them.  According  to  Pedrasa,  '  HisL  de 
Granada,'  and  Aigote,  '  Paseoe,'  voL  iL,  the 
use  of  these  and  odier  suchlike  amulets  by  the 
Moon  was  prohibited  in  1596  by  order  of 
CSimlee  V.  and  his  mother.  DoBaJi 


which  they  now  keep  sentry,  for  in 
Spain  the  Moor  seems  destined  never 
to  die. 

Over  the  second  arch  is  a  key  sculp- 
tured— another  symbol  of  the  power 
granted  to  the  Prophet  to  open  or  shut 
the  gates  of  heaven.  In  one  of  the 
Surss  it  is  distinctly  said :  'Did  not 
Al-lah  give  him  the  keys  with  the  rank 
of  ^ooriceeper,  that  he  (the  Prophet) 
should  be  entitled  to  usher  in  the 
elected  ones  f  St  Peter  and  the  Popes, 
his  successors,  are  likewise  key-besrers 
of  the  Kingilom  of  Heaven.  The  key 
was  also  a  sign  of  knowledge  and  of 
power,  and  was  used  as  a  badge  by  the 
Moors  soon  after  they  had  invaded 
Spain,  and  occurs  more  than  once  over 
doors  within  the  Alhambra.  The  cham- 
berlains of  the  kings  of  Spain  wear  a 
gold  key  on  their  coats,  a  mark  of  their 
office.  The  passages  between  the  outer 
and  inner  gate  are  winding  and  tortu- 
ous,  as  appears  in  many  other  outworks 
of  the  same  kind,  either  Arab  or  medi- 
eval,  and  were  so  contrived  to  check 
the  advancing  foe  in  his  entrance,  and 
augment  the  means  of  defence.  The 
three  inner  arches  were  built  with 
brick,  and  angular  forms,  and  an  empty 
space  of  about  six  yards  was  left  from 
the  turrets  to  the  door,  the  latter  made 
with  an  opening  over  it  to  facilitate 
throwing  all  sorts  of  projectiles.  The 
words  in  the  inscription,  *May  God 
make  this  (the  gate)  a  protecting  bul- 
wark,'  together  with  its  massiveness 
and  position,  do  not  leave  a  doubt  as  to 
its  being  intended  also  as  the  key  to  a 
powerful  line  of  defence.  The  door 
consista  of  two  leaves,  strengthened 
by  iron  plates,  closed  with  pecidiar 
locks,  and  fastened  with  transverse 
metal  bars. 

Turning  now  sharply  to  the  right, 
we  pass  an  altar  placed  in  the  wall, 
with  an  indifferent  painting  represent* 
ing  the  Virgin  and  Child.    Althoi^ 


GRANADA — ALHAMBRA. 


179 


a— CTted  bj  some  too  credalom  and 
moet  ignorant  admirers  to  be  the  replica 
of  the  identical  portrait  of  the  Vii^^ 
Morjr,  painted  by  St  Luke,  the  mere 
(act  of  its  being  in  oil  colours  is  enough 
to  contradict  such  a  statement,  without 
entering  into  the  style,  draperies,  eta 
On  the  wall  to  the  right  is  an  inscrip- 
tion, on  a  marble  slab^  which  records 
the  conquest  of  Granada,  and  appoint- 
ment of  Count  Tendilla  as  its  goremor 
(alcaide). 

Plata  tU  Urn  Alffibet  (Plact  qf  the 
Citterns), — The  walled-ln  plateau  or 
terrace  on  which  the  Alhambra  stands 
is  the  highest  hill  of  the  four  on  which 
Granada  has  been  built,  and  commands 
the  town  and  plain,  firom  which  it  is 
divided  by  the  Darro.  It  is  2430  feet 
long  by  974  ft  in  its  widest  part  The 
red  wills»  9ft  thick  by  80  hi(^,  on  an 
arerage,  girdle  the  hill  on  the  £.  side, 
linked  and  strengthened  by  buttresses 
and  towers,  many  of  which  formed  the 
detached  residenoes  of  sultanas  and 
great  officers.  If  you  stand  on  the  pla- 
suela  which  is  in  £ront  of  the  Church 
of  San  Nicolas,  and  from  which  the 
best  Wew  of  the  Alhambra  is  to  be  ob- 
tained, you  will  notice  clearly  the  long 
Unes  of  irregularly -bunt  walls  following 
the  sinuosities  of  the  ground,  termi- 
nating on  the  left  by  the  Tower  de  las 
Infantas,  and  followed  up  to  the  right 
by  the  Torre  de  la  OantiTa,  de  los 
Ilcos,  portions  of  the  Tower  of  the  To- 
eador,  rising  somewhat  more  than  the 
rest,  and  hanging  orer  the  romantic 
raTine.  Of  the  three  separate  portions, 
the  first  on  the  left  is  composed  of  the 
Tone  de  Comares  and  the  palace ;  at 
the  extreme  ri^t  is  the  Alcazaba,  or 
fortresi^  with  its  dismantled  castle,  and 
in  the  space  between,  the  Plasa  de  los 
Algibes,  on  which  the  palace  of  Charles 
IIL  rises,  extending  its  square  un- 
broken lines  a  litUe  to  the  left  (see  plan). 
The  aspect  of  the  exterior  of  those 


towers  is  serere,  plain,  and  of  uniform 
structure,  yet  far  from  appearing  mono- 
tonous. The  effect  is  most  picturesque, 
and  the  deep  orange  colouring  contrasts 
happily  with  the  emerald  green  alopes. 
The  simplicity  and  absence  of  orna- 
mentation and  windows  were  intended  to 
guard  off  the  three  greatest  enemies  of 
the  Moor — heat,  the  eril  eye,  and  the 
enemy's  projectile.  This  plsa  is  truly 
an  epitome  of  the  history  of  Spain,  and 
eyidence  in  stone  of  its  changing  dy- 
nasties, races,  and  creeds.  The  restiges 
that  remain  of  Uliberis  mark  the  Ro- 
man period,  as  the  Torres  Bermcyas 
and  Puertadel  Sol  recall,  though  Tagudy, 
the  Carthaginian's  rule. 

By  the  side  of  the  Mussulman's 
eastern  palace  rises  the  Tuscan  palace 
of  the  German  Charles  Y.;  the  parish 
church  of  Sta.  Maria  is  on  the  rite  of 
the  former  mosque,  and  dose  to  the 
still  standing  Mihriib,  nowcalled  Puerta 
del  Vino.  The  crumbled  walls  of 
towers  and  deTastation  of  the  gardens 
are  a  memorial  of  Bonaparte's  soldieBB ; 
and  the  line  of  hoYcls,  the  residence  of 
oily,  Tscant,  lU-fed,  and  fll-paid  em- 
pleados,  together  with  the  ruinous 
walls,  never  propped  up^  are  but  too 
plainly  characterirtic  of  Spanish  ne- 
glect 

The  Plasa  de  los  Algibes  is  so  called 
from,  the  dstems  or  tanks  which  receive 
the  waters  of  the  Darro,  and  are  about 
135  ft  long  by  26  ft  broad.  They  are 
deep,  built  with  vaults  and  horse-shoe 
arches.  A  draw-well  in  the  comer  of 
the  square  is  used  to  raise  the  water, 
which  is  carried  by  agnadores  Into  the 
town,  and  ii  much  esteemed  for  its 
freshness  and  purity.  The  plasa  is 
about  226  ft  long  by  187  ft  wide.  To 
the  left  rises  the  fortress  of  the  Al- 
hambra, the  KassabUi,  and  to  the  ri^t 
the  Puerta  del  Vino,  the  palace  of 
Charles  Y.,  and  almost  behind  the 
Case  Real,  or  palace  of  the  Moora. 


180 


GRANADA — ^ALHAkSRA. 


We  advise  our  readers  to  leave  the 
Tuscan  Palace  and  Alcazalia,  for  the 
end  of  their  yisit,  and  proceed  at  once 
to  the  Alhambra,  after  a  glance  at  the 

Puerta  del  Vino  (OaU  of  the  Wine). 
—So  designated  beoMise  in  the  edifice  to 
which  this  door  served  as  an  entrance, 
and  which  has  been  destroyed,  were 
stored  the  peU^ae  or  skins  containing 
the  wine  that  was  brought  from  AlcalA 
for  the  exclusive  use  of  its  inmatf.  It 
was  formerly  a  mihri^b  or  chapel,  and 
its  eastern  fa^e  never  had  a  door.  It 
is  one  of  the  most  massive  works  left 
by  the  Moors.  It  was  built  by  Moham- 
med  y.  The  inscription,  in  African 
characters,  over  the  arch  leaves  no  doubt 
fh)m  its  style  as  to  its  sacred  use  by 
the  Moors  ;  it  begins  : — 

'  I  flee  to  God  for  protecdoo  from  Satan,  the 
pelted  with  stones.*  In  the  name  of  God,  the 
merciful  and  compassionate.  May  the  blessing 
of  God  rsst  on  oar  lord  and  master  Mohammed, 
and  upon  hh  fiunily  and  followers.  Peace  and 
greeting,  etc 

Then  follow  the  1st,  2d,  uid  8d, 
verses  of  the  48th  Sura  of  the  Koran, 
and  praises  to  the  Sultan  Abu,  Abdil* 
lah,  Al-gani,  Bil-lah  (the  contented 
witii  Qod),  who  erected  this  monument. 

Iptlaa  sf  t\p  ^l^bn.— The  palace 
formeriy  extended  over  a  surface  up- 
wards of  400  ft.  long  by  260  ft  broad, 
and  was  divided  into  two  series  of  apart- 
ments, one  for  the  winter,  and  another 
used  during  the  summer,  and  probably 
also  for  fntivities.  The  palace  then 
contained  four  laige  courts.  The 
winter  portion  was  on  the  site  of  the 
palace  of  Charles  Y . ;  the  sunmier  pa- 
lace  hung  over   the   Darro^    to   ^e 

*  This  expression,  which  often  recurs  in  in- 
scriptions  in  the  Alhambra,  is  found  in  the 
Koran.  According  to  a  tradition  among  the 
Moon,  Abraham  being  often  molested  by  the 
repeated  temptations  of  the  deril,  was  wont  to 
take  up  stones  and  pelt  the  intruder,  who  then 
withdrew,  struck,  we  suppose,  with  so  weighty 


north,  and  in  sight  of  tlie  snowy  sierra, 
and  tiie  principal  entrance  was  by  the 
Court  of  the  Berkldi,  or  Arrayanes. 
The  harem,  that  most  important  fea- 
ture in  an  Eastern  palace  or  house,  is 
also  wanting.  The  present  entrance  is 
by  a  small,  insignificant  door,  placed 
at  the  8.  W.  comer  of  the  Court  of  the 
Berkldi,  and  which  is  reached  through 
a  narrow  lane  formed  by  the  palace  of 
Charles  Y.  on  the  right,  and  the  partly 
modem  and  partly  Moorish  house  in- 
habited by  the  gobemador.  Entering 
a  smaU  corridor,  a  staircase  to  the  left 
leads  up  to  the  functionaiy's  halnla* 
doneif  which  have  been  repaired,  but 
possess  little  interest  The  archives  of 
the  Alhambra  are  kept  here,  as  well  as 
two  slabs  of  white  marble  exquisitely 
sculptured ;  they  are  erroneously  called 
Meaae — ^tables — and  from  the  inscrip- 
tion were  probably  placed  in  the  wall 
or  over  some  arch  In  a  mihrkb  or 
mosque. 

The  other  table  has  no  inscription 
except  the  well-known  '  Wa  la  ghaliba- 
ilU- Allah,'  'There  is  no  conqueror  but 
God.' 

This  corridor  has  been  modernised, 
but  bears  traces  here  and  there  of  the 
Moorish  period.  There  are  some  elegant 
arches  and  exquisite  niches,  erroneously 
called  babueheroa  (from  babtuhe,  slip- 
pers) by  Echavarria  and  others^  who 
assert  that  the  slippers,  which  in  the 
East  are  always  left  on  entering  a  habi- 
tation, were  placed  inside.  It  is  an  im- 
memorial Eastern  custom :  *  And  he 
said :  Draw  not  nigh  hither ;  put  off 
thy  shoes  fh>m  off  thy  feet,  for  the  place 
whereon  thou  standest  is  holy  ground.' 
(Exodus  iiL  5.  and  Josh.  v.  15,  etc) 
From  their  usual  inscriptions^  and 
being  usually  placed  within  the  inner 
apartments,  together  with  what  we 
have  seen  so  often  in  Morocco^  there  is 
no  doubt  that  they  were  used  to  hold 
porous  al-carraxas^  full  of  freah  watar. 


GRANADA — AT.HAMBRA. 


181 


and  li^ti  plioed  in  crjttal  cases  or 
transparent  poroeUin.  Now,  taming 
to  the  ri^^t,  we  shall  enter  the 

FcUio  ds  la  Btrk^*or  tU  Urn  Arm- 
gamm  (Oomi  <if  (As  BlatiMg,  or  </  lAs 
MifriUi), — ^Although  some  authors  havs 
derired  the  Spanish  designation  alberea 
from  al-bterhtk,  a  tank,  a  pond,  we 
think  the  deriifmtion  from  berkdh^  the 
blessing  applies  more   accorately  to 
this  ooort,  becanse  it  was   used  for 
ablations  by  the  royal  famfly,  and  all 
others  who  were  piesent  at  tiie  salAh 
hdd  in  the  priTate  moeqne  of  the  pa- 
Uoe,  which  is  dose  by.     This  patio  is 
140  ft  long  by  74  ft.  broad,  of  an  ob- 
long form.    In  the  centre  is  a  large 
pond,*set  in  the  marble  parement,  and 
now  frill  of  goldfish.      Along  the  sides 
are  edges  of  myrtles,  carefully  trimmed, 
and  kept  low,  and  the  court  hence  has 
often  been  oalled '  de  los  Arrayanes ' 
(Arrabic^  arr-ofiM,  myrtle).    There 
are  galleries  on  the  N.  and  8.  sides ; 
that  on  the  right  as  yon  go  in  (the  8.) 
is  27  ft.  hi^  and  is  snpported  by  a 
marUe  oolonnade;   orer  this  gallery 
rises  a  second,  forming  a  sort  of  sniriM)^ 
8  ft.  hi^  to  the  ceiling.      Underneath 
it,  to  tiie  right,  was  ^  prindpal  en- 
trance ;  the  door  was  inuMimda,  as 
the  Spaniards  graphically  express  it, 
when  Charles  Y.'s  palace  blocked  np 
all  that  side.    Orer  it  are  three  d^gant 
windows  with  arches,  and  six  miniatnre 
pHlan;  the  two  laige  niches  at  the 
extremities  are  8  ft.  deep,  and  deli- 
catdy  ornamented  with  oral  arches, 
resting  on  white  Kaoad  marUe.    The 
asnlcjos  under  the  niches,  that  rise 
about  1 1  ft.  from  the  floor,  ran  formerly 
along  the  walls  of  the  rest  of  this  court, 
and  are  of  a  pretty  pattern.    Thed^t 
pHlars  supporting  the  gallery,  and  dose 
to  the  mosque,  are  of  great  Ughtaess, 
and  the  ornamentation  of  the  capitals 
Taries  in  each.     Arches,  dender  and 
pliant  like  palms,  spring  from  the  capi- 


tals, and  bend   most  gracefully  one 
towards  another  until  they  meet      At 
the  base  of  each,  which  is  divided  into 
four  sides,  are  medallions,   with  the 
woidi^  '  Perpetud  Sdvation,*  in  Cufio 
characters.    The  ceiling  of  the  galleries 
is  plain,  inlaid  with  wood  carrod  into 
angular  patterns,  all  of  which  used  to 
be  painted  and  gilt ;  the  extemd  oma- 
inentation  of  the  pdlery  is  formed  by 
a  stacco   tapestiy,    interworen   witii 
flowers  and  leares ;  the  walls  are  high, 
and  were  tolerably  restored  in  1842. 
Obserre  the  six  oral  doors  and  agimei 
windows.    The  upper  gallery  was  re- 
stored by  Seftor  Oontreras,  the  Cither, 
we    bdiere,    of  Don    Rafad.      The 
tank  is  a  paralldogram,  124  ft.  long; 
and  27  ft.  wide,  and  6  ft.  deep ;  at  each 
extremity  is  a  tassa  of  white  marble, 
from  which  the  water  ooses  rather  than 
flows  into  the  reserroir.     This  court 
was  built  by  Ibn-1-Ahmar,  but  richly 
decorated,  painted,  and  gilt  by  Tusuf  I. 
Like  most  of  the  hdls  and  courts  in 
this  palace^  this  one  has  been  the  scene 
of  many  a  deadly  deed  of  rengeanoe 
and  jedousy.     Mohammed  III.,  who 
had  hastened  to  Granada  on  hearingthe 
report  of  the  presumed  death  of  the 
usurper    Nasr,     was    astonished,    on. 
alighting  at  the  gate  of  the  Alhambra, 
to  find  that  Nasr  had  reoorered  from , 
the  apoplectic  fit  which  had  caused  the 
report  to  be  spread.     Mohammed  was 
instantly   seised   and   confined   in   a 
dungeon,  whence  he  was  remoTed  to 
this   court,  executed,    and  his  body 
thrown   into   the   pond,   April  1811. 
From  tills  court  the  impodng  walls  of 
the  Torre  de  Comares  are  seen  rising 
orer  the  roof  and  to  the  N.    This  tower 
and  the  colonnades  are  reflected  in  the 
crystal  mirror  of  the  water,  and  truly 
'  lend    enchantment    to    the    riew.' 
Opticd   efleots,    produced   by  water, 
light  and  diade,  and  combined  gradual 
deration,  with  an  almost  inssndbli 


182 


GRANADA — ^ALHAMBRA. 


inequality  in  the  floors  of  apartments, 
were  often  moet  happily  treated  and 
rendered  by  Mooriah  architects.  This 
must  hare  been  a  fSftiry  entrance  into  a 
palace,  when  it  was  sparkling  all  orer 
with  gilding  and  vivid  colours.-  The 
shield  of  the  Moorish  kings  of  Granada 
recurs  very  often.  It  is  a  plain  escut- 
cheon with  a  bend,  once  red,  and  the 

motto,  '  ThBBX  18  MO  OOKQUBROR  BUT 

God.'  This  is  the  origin  of  the  motto 
and  shield.  Ibn-1-Abmar,  who  had 
been  the  vassal  of  Ferdinand,  was 
present  at  the  surrender  of  Seville,  and 
contributed  to  the  victory  obtained  by 
the  Ohristians.  On  his  way  back  to 
Granada,  where  he  had  determined  to 
buOd  the  Al-hamri,  his  subjects,  who 
held  him  in  great  veneration,  greeted 
him,  Galib^  tiie  conqueror,  to  which 
herepUed,  'WalaghaUbiUaAl-lah'— 
'There  is  no  conqueror  but  God.' 
According  to  another  legend,  on  the 
eve  of  the  battle  of  Alaroos,  which 
proved  fatal  to  the  Christians,  an  angel 
appeared  in  the  heavens^  riding  a  spark- 
ling white  horse,  and  waving  in  his 
hand  a  flag  which  reached  from  pole  to 
pole,  and  bore  these  same  words.  As 
modest  a  reply  was  made  by  the  Black 
Prince,  after  the  battle  of  Nagera, 
'  Thank  me  not,  but  rather  praise  God, 
for  His,  not  mine,  is  the  victory.' 
Ibn-1-Ahmar,  on  his  being  knighted 
by  8t  Ferdinand,  adopted  this  motto 
(moU)  on  his  ooat-of-arms,  which  was 
heraldically  a  field,  ore  and  Bend 
argent,  with  the  above  motto  sable, 
but  the  bend  and  field  varied  at  difler- 
ent  periods.  The  real  origin  may  be, 
that  it  was  the  tahlil,  or  war-cry  of  the 
Prophet,  and  was  inscribed  on  the 
standard  of  Tacub-al-Mansur,  at  the 
battle  of  Alarcos. 

iV  We  do  not  follow  strictly  the 
course  of  the  dcerone  porter. 

AfO^'Sala  eU  Bmbaiadcru  (AnU- 
OolUry  U  ih$  HaU  </  AmbanadanY^  I 


Sometimes  called  de  la  Barca  (of  the 
boat),  from  the  figure  of  the  room. 
This  is  a  very  elegant  and  well-pre> 
served  specimen.  The  azulejos  are  fine. 
At  each  side  of  the  entrance,  which  is 
very  elaborate,  is  a  small  niche ;  that 
on  the  right  has  a  pretty  poem,  in  all 
the  Oriental  gallantry.  The  roof  is 
bespangled  with  stars  and  other  pat- 
terns, coloured.  It  was  shattered  in 
1590.  In  the  angles  there  is  charming 
stalactical  work,  with  miniature  pillars, 
Lilliputian  cupolas,  half-moons,  and 
the  words,  'Blessing,'  'Salvation,' 
'God  alone  the  Conqueror,'  'Glory  be 
to  our  Lord  Abu  Ab-dillah.'  On  each 
side  are  recesses,  22  ft.  high,  94  ft. 
wide,  and  supported  by  eight  pillars, 
the  capitals  of  which  are  formed  by 
escutcheons. 

Sola  tU  Bmhajadores  {Hall  of  Am- 
batsadan, — Is  the  largest  in  the  Al- 
hambra,  and  occupies  all  the  Tower  of 
Comares.  It  is  a  square  room,  87  ft. 
by  75  ft.  high  to  iht  centre  of  the 
dome.  This  was  the  grand  reception- 
room,  and  the  throne  of  the  sultan  was 
placed  opposite  the  entrance.  Observe 
the  azul^'oe,  nearly  4  ft.  high  all  round, 
the  colours  of  which  vary  at  intenrals. 
Over  this  is  a  series  of  oval  medallions 
with  Cufio  inscriptions  interwoven  with 
flowers  and  leaves ;  there  are  nine  win- 
dows, three  on  each  fa9ade.  The  arte- 
sonado  is  very  fine,  and  rests  on  a 
wooden  cornice ;  the  ceiling,  of  alerce 
wood,  is  admirably  diversified  with 
inlaid  work  of  distinct  colours,  espe- 
cially white,  blue,  and  gold,  made  in 
the  shape  of  circles,  crowns,  and  stars,  a 
sort  of  imitation  of  the  vault  of  heaven. 
The  recesses  of  the  windows  are  small 
cabinets  In  themselves,  such  is  the 
thickness  of  the  walls.  The  shutters 
and  balconies  were  added  by  Charles  Y ., 
and  the  view  frx>m  them  is  splendid. 
From  the  one  looking  on  the  Darro^ 
Ayeshah   is   said   to   have  let  down 


OBAKABA— ALHAHBKA. 


163 


Basbdll  In  k  buket,  to  mtc  him  from 
brr  riral  Zonja'a  ralentlcai  Tengeance, 
•nd  Cbarlei  V.,  leuiiiig  out  of  one,  it 
taid  to  hsTO  excUimed^  u  he  beheld 
the  ^riMu  ptuoniiik  tpTewl  at  hu 
feet,  'lU-fnted  tlig  nuu  who  lo«t  *U 
thill*  The  Willi  ITS  corcred  with 
Tuiod  itucco-worlc  of  tnoat  detidte 
pittanu,  and  miicd  with  Mcntcheoiu. 
It  hil  been  Tery  ably  repaired  bj  Sr. 
Contnrai,  and  it  is  hard,  almoit  im- 

poMdble,    to    Hllitingni.h    tho  tttlj  WOrk 

from  the  new.     Over  the  arch  of  eU- 


Tum  the  luicription: — 
'  Glory  be  pna  to  our 
bird,  Abnl  Hachach.  May 
God  help  him  in  hii  en- 
lerpriM.'   And  round  the 
nidM  to  th«  right  the  in- 
Kription: — 'Praise  loth* 
onlj  God.    I  will  remore 
Dpon  Yniof  Ihe  nuleRca 
oTtlie  eril  eye,'  with  fi*e 
•entencM: — 'Saf,  I  Dee 
(o  the  Lonl  of  the  riMng 
ion,  thinki  (be  given]  to 
God,'  etc    '  Praise  be  to 
Cod,'  etc.     The  inicrip' 
tiap  round  the  one  on  the 
right  i>  almoit  identical. 
This  hall  ii  ilao  cilled 
iSoAi  ill  Cbmarei^  became 
iti  peculiar  wortminibip 
mombled  that  at  Coma- 
rech  in  Persia,  and  the 
artiiti    Mnplojed    came 
pnrpoeelj     from     that 
coDntrf.    Th«  prcaent  roof  Wm  »  rab- 
■tituta  for   the  original  of  wonderfdl 
•talaetit*  woric  in  itOcao^  bat  which 
fell  down  along  with  u  iKh  nude  of 
moth«r-of.pewl,  Jaaper,  and  porphfrj. 
The  ceilingi  of  the  window-reccMe*  ate 
plain,  of  inlaid  wood,  and   badlj  re- 
itored.     The  balconie*  were  added  in 
1S33.     Their   nn  wu  not  known   to 
the  Uoora.     The  floor  wai  of  bcutifol 


alabaiter,  and  It  ii  nid  there  wai  an 
alabaiter  fountain  in  the  oentn.  At  the 
end  of  Gth  G«ntU7  there  wai  a  partial 
restoration  of  the  gilding  and  painting. 
Thii  tn^niflcent  hall,  the  work  of  Ibn- 
l-Ahmar,  ii  higher,  more  lolid  and 
grandioec  than  the  rat,  and  of  a  differ- 
ent period  in  the  ityli  and  epoch:  The 
Willi  wem  to  he  covered  with  an  infini^ 
of  galpurel  placed  orer  each  other. 

Polio  dt  laLtonet  {Court  o/OuLioiu.) 
— This  celebrated  portion  of  the  palaoa 
hu  been  almost  completel]'  rcetored  bj 
Sr.  Contrerai  with  joj  grieat  twt«  and 


ability.  Although  poMeHbguchuae- 
leriitici  the  moit  exquiiita  eleguMM  In 
all  ita  parti,  it  hai  not  the  impeain^ 
m^eatie,  and  elevated  itjie  of  tfai  Hill 
of  Ambaoadon,  and  ia  attributed  to 
other  irchitecta.  It  wai  built  in  1877 
by  Mohammed,  who,  altar  being  de- 
throned by  Iimael,  waa  a  second  time 
replaced  on  the  throne  with  the  aid  of 
Don  Pedro  tin  Cmel,  who  murdered  the 


184 


GRANADA — ALHAMBRA. 


king,  his  fonner  ally,  at  Tabladi,  dose 
to  Sefille.  According  to  Cean  Bennn- 
doi,  'Arqnit/roL  L,  the  architect  was 
called  Aben  Concind.  It  isne?erthe- 
less  a  perfect  model  of  Moorish  patio 
architecture.  Observe  those  open-«rork 
circular  galleries  to  keep  off  the  son ; 
the  li^tness  In  the  columns,  the  sym- 
metry in  the  proportions^  variety  in  the 
patterns,  and  filigree -worked  walls 
through  which  the  blue  heaven  is  seen; 
filling  the  interstices  with  colour  as 
if  it  were  painted.  The  court  is  an 
hypnthral  quadrilateral  oblong  of  126 
feet  (Spanish)  long  by  78  feet  wide, 
and  224  feet  high  under  the  galleries. 
It  is  surrounded  by  a  low  gallery, 
which  is  supported  on  124  white  marble 
colunms,  not  counting  the  four  em- 
bedded in  the  inner  walls.  The  width 
between  the  walls  and  the  pillars  in 
the  galleries  is  74  feet  The  piUars 
here  are  irregularly  placed ;  alternate- 
ly isolated  and  in  pairs.  A  pavilion 
projects  into  the  court  at  each  ex- 
tremity, most  elaborately  ornamented 
and  made  with  filigree  walls;  the 
domed  rooISi  are  very  light  and  of 
that  shape  so  poetically  and  Justly 
called  by  those  sons  of  the  Arabs,  the 
Spaniards,  nudia$  wuramjoi;  they  are 
surmounted  by  a  spear  with  a  flow- 
ing hofsehair,  surmounted  by  the  cres- 
cent There  are  three  stalactite  arches 
on  each  side,  which  h&ve  three  columns 
at  the  angles  and  two  single  ones  be- 
tween each  cluster.  The  ornamentation 
of  the  inner  walls  has  almost  all  disap- 
peared. It  consisted  of  a  Mti^o,  or 
fringe^  of  asulcjos  running  up  from  the 
pavement,  and  then  covered  by  stucco 
diaper  varying  in  pattern  at  each  mo- 
ment, and  not  unlike  that  in  the  Comares 
Hall  Observe  the  effect  of  the  tOes, 
coloured  in  different  hues,  and  the 
painted  and  gflt  shafts  projecting;  and 
called  atiMi.  The  capitols  are  of  differ- 
ent patterns,  and  were  coloured  and  gflt 


The  irregularity  of  the  pillars  was  in- 
tended, and  the  result  of  study  of  effects. 
The  fringe  of  the  centre  arch  of  the 
court  is  formed  of  the  stalactite  bricks 
placed  radiating  to  the  centre,  supported 
by  a  charming  bracket,  whichisabeau- 
tiful  example  of  the  constructive  idea 
carried  out  in  the  decoration  of  the  sur- 
(BOt,  The  design  of  the  'lozenge'  in 
the  arches  is  most  Judicious ;  it  is  so 
arranged  that  by  Uie  repetition  of  a 
single  tUe,  two  or  three  patterns  grow 
out  of  the  combination.  The  capitals 
of  the  columns  show  various  transitions 
in  forms,  but  all  gradual,  and  the  con- 
structive idea  is  never  lost  sight  ot 
Over  the  capitals  is  the  Oufic  inscrip- 
tion, '  God  alone  the  Conqueror.'  The 
ornament  on  the  piers  contains  in  centre 
the  shield  of  the  founder,  surrounded 
by  the  word  '  Grace.*  The  main  lines 
of  the  pattern  are  admirably  adapted  for 
giving  height  to  the  piers.  The  general 
form  of  the  pieis,  arehes,  and  columns, 
is  most  graceful ;  the  mere  outline  of  the 
voids  and  solids  \b  perfect  The  side 
arches  are  stilted,  and  struck  from  two 
centres,  yet  so  slightly  pointed  that 
they  are  only  Just  sufficient  to  relieve 
them  from  the  compressed  appearance 
of  a  semicircular  arcL  The  middle  one 
is  also  from  two  centres. 

Ttu  FauMtain  oflAtmt,  — In  the  centre 
of  the  court  is  the  celebrated  Fountain 
or  Tazsa.  It  is  a  dodecagon  basin  I04 
ft  (Spanish)  in  diameter,  and  2  ft  deep, 
from  which  springs  a  pedestal  support- 
ing a  second  tazza  4  ft  in  diameter  and 
14  ft  deep.  We  venture  to  think  that 
originally  there  was  only  the  lower 
tasza,  which  rests  on  the  lions,  and  was 
at  a  convenient  hei^t  for  ablutions,  for 
which  all  fountains  were  made.  The 
workmanship  of  the  higher  tam  is  in- 
ferior, and  the  vain  efforts  of  an  unskfl- 
tvX  and  more  modem  artist  to  imitate 
the  Arabic  patterns  can  be  easUy  do- 
tected.    The  present  marble  pavenml 


GRANADA — ALHAMBRA. 


185 


oonoetla  the  lower  portion  of  the  dado, 
tnd  i%  therefore,  now  on  a  higher  leyel 
than  it  was  originally,  even  if  it  he  the 
faoie ;  around  the  lower  tam  mns  a 
poem  in  Tawil  metre ;  many  of  the 
Teraee  were  copied  from  the  poem  writ- 
ten in  pnuM  of  the  founder  of  this  court, 
Mohammed  V.,  by  the  Wazir  Abu 
Abdil-Udi  Kohamed  £bn  Yiisuf  £bn 
Zemrec,  a  disciple  of  the  celebrated  his- 
torian £bnul  KUhib. 

The  fountain  is  a  magnificent  ala- 
baster basin.  The  twelve  lions  must  be 
looked  upon  not  in  a  sculptural  way,  but 
henddicaUy,  as  emblems  of  strength, 
power,  courage.  The  lion  in  the  East 
was  a  sign  of  power,  and  was  always 
used  heraldically  by  the  Egyptians,  and 
▼ery  often  in  Spain.  They  are  in  white 
marble,  barbecued,  with  their  manes 
cot  like  the  scales  of  a  griflin.  They 
were  probably  the  work  of  Spanish 
prisoners  or  renegades.  According  to 
Mannol  and  other  historians,  the  child- 
ron  of  Abu  Hasen  by  Ayeshah  were 
all  beheaded  orer  the  fountain  by  order 
of  their  father  (excepting  the  oldest, 
subsequently  Boabdil). 

Sola  de  iot  Abenoerragea  (ffaU  of  the 
Ah$nemrage$). — ^DeriTes  its  name  firom 
a  legend,  according  to  which  Boabdil, 
the  last  king  of  Granada,  inyited  the 
ehiefii  of  tUs  illustrious  line  of  the 
Beni-Serrii»  better  known  as  the  Aben- 
cerrages^  to  a  banquet,  and  had  them 
taken  out  one  by  one  after  the  feast, 
through  a  small  wicket,  to  the  foun- 
tain of  the  Court  of  lions,  where  they 
were  beheaded ;  a  massacre  which  con- 
tributed to  his  ruin,  as  they  were  the 
main  support  of  his  kingdom,  and  had 
helped  to  place  him  on  his  throne.  The 
wi<&et,  which  had  beautiful  folding 
doon,  was  removed  in  1887,  and  partly 
destroyed  by  the  then  governor  of 
Alhambra.  The  dingy  ferruginous 
spots  on  the  marble  pavement  near  the 
fountain  are  said  by  the  cicerone  to  be 


stains  of  blood.  Others  assert  that 
they  were  murdered  here,  which  would 
be  an  Irish  way  of  killing  them  in  this 
room,  whilst  they  were  breaded  in  the 
Court  of  Lions.  This  legend  has  no 
other  authority  than  a '  romance, ' '  His* 
toria  de  las  Gnerras  Civiles  de  Gra- 
nada.' That  smmal  of  the  Abencer- 
rages  were  treacherously  murdered  in 
eiUier  this  or  some  other  hall  is  certain, 
but  it  was  by  Abu  Hasen's  orders,  and. 
not  Doabdil's ;  the  reason  being  that 
the  Abencerrages  had  sided  with  Aye- 
shah, and  the  pretext  that  one  of  them 
had  outraged  his  sister.  (See  Marmol, 
'  Bebellion  de  los  Moriscos,'  lib.  i  cap. 
12 ;  '  Hist  de  Granada,'  by  Lafuente 
Alcantara,  voL  iv.  etc.)  The  orna- 
mentation was  identical  with  that  of  the 
Hall  of  the  Two  Sisten ;  it  has  under- 
gone many  restorations.  Enter  by  an 
oval  door,  'which  leads  into  a  very 
narrow  anteroom  with  a  small  door  at 
each  side,  communicating  with  inner 
haUs^  and  on  the  arch  the  usual  inscrip- 
tion, '  There  is  no  conqueror  but  God,' 
and  'Blessing'  etc.,  'Glory  be  to  our 
lord  Abu  Abdil-UdL'  There  are  but  a 
few  inscriptions  here,  and  several  are 
out  of  the  poem  of  the  Hall  of  the 
Two  Sitters,  which  Lafuente  Alcantara 
('  Inscripciones  Anbes  de  Granada,'  vol. 
i.  p.  126)  thinks  must  have  been 
placed  there  when,  in  the  18th  century, 
tlus  hsll  was  repaid  ;  it  had  given  way 
after  an  explosion  of  a  gunpowder  ma- 
gazine situated  close  to  San  Frandsoo. 
When  the  restoretion  was  directed  by 
Alfonso  Berruguete,  at  the  time  aevend 
ornaments  belonging  to  other  parts  of 
the  palace  were  ti^en  recast,  and  placed 
without  regard  to  their  original  desti- 
nation. Observe  how  exquisitely  the 
arch  form  gradually  grows  out  of  the 
shaft  of  the  column,  tiie  stalactite  roof 
crowning  this  hall,  and  the  penden- 
tives  of  the  two  arches  leading  into  the 
hall  and  those  over  the  aloovssL  Thereof 


186 


GRANADA — ^ALHAMBRA. 


is  most  exquisite— the  bluea^  brown, 
red,  and  gold,  are  most  effectire ;  the 
green  at  the  sides  is  bloe  decayed. 
With  the  back  to  the  wall,  the  Tiew 
OTer  the  fomitain  through  the  three 
arches  to  the  fountain  -in  the  Court  of 
the  lions  is  strikin^y  beantifiiL  It  is 
a  perfect  square.  Its  cnpok  or  dome  is 
Tery  lofty,  half  ronnd  and  half  conical ; 
at  its  ban  there  are  small  trellised  win- 
dows, behind  which  the  women  oould 
hear  music  without  being  seen.  Many 
of  its  asul^'os  are  of  Spanish  workman- 
ship^ made  and  designed  by  Antonio 
Tenorio,  1589  ('Arohiyes  of  the  Al- 
hambra*). 

Solas  da  TribwMl  (CQuncQ  Hall  of 
Justice). — On  the  eastern  side  of  the 
Patio  de  los  Leones  is  a  long  gMlery, 
divided  into  alcores,  or  divans^  con- 
nected with  each  other  and  called  del  Tri- 
bunal, from  the  circumstance  that  the 
khilif  used  to  give  audience  here,  and 
treat  of  state  aflairs.  In  the  centre  one, 
observe  the  six  fine  stalactite  arches 
rising  from  small  columns.  It  was  re- 
stored in  1841.  Observe  the  medallions 
mixed  with  the  rest  of  Arab  patterns, 
bearing  the  badges  of  the  Catholic 
kings»  the  yoke  and  bundle  of  arrows^ 
with  the  motto,  '  Tanto  monta,*  Three 
arches  lead  into  the  hall  of  the  Council 
Room,  15  feet  high.  The  Council  Room 
is  75  ft.  long  by  18  ft.  wide,  and  the 
hall  is  divided  into  seven  compartments, 
including  the  alcoves  ;  the  three  facing 
the  doors  or  arches  are  square  (88  ft. 
high  to  the  dome),  and  the  other  four 
quadrilateral  oblong  (18  ft.  long  by  8 
ft.  wide).  In  the  wall  of  the  hidl,  op- 
posite io  the  entrance,  there  are  three 
more  that  lead  to  as  many  other  rooms. 
The  ornamentation  of  these  rooms  is 
very  minute,  and  more  delicate  and 
more  profusely  decorated  and  coloured 
than  any  other.  The  arch  opening 
into  the  central  ealoon  is  perh&ps  un- 
equalled throughout  the  rest  of  the 


Alhsmbra ;  the  archivolt  spandrils  are 
very  elaborately  worked  and  splendid 
The  whole  seems  to  have  been  l^e  work 
of  the  Qenii,  raised  in  a  night  by  the 
sounds  of  some  mysterious  soft  music, 
and  at  the  wand  of  a  magician — so 
light,  vapoury,  spider's-web-like,  gossa- 
mer work  it  v^ 

After  the  conquest,  the  great  mosque 
of  the  Alhambra  was  purified  and  con- 
verted into  a  cathedral ;  but  on  the  edi- 
fice threatening  ruin  Philip  II.  had  the 
sacrament  removed  to  this  hall,  where 
it  was  kept  for  thirty  years  until  1608, 
when  the  Church  of  Sta.  Maria  de  la 
Alhambra  was  completed. 

The  open  caniarines  or  recesses  in 
the  S.  wall  are  interesting,  and  here 
much  repairing  has  taken  place  in  very 
good  style  by  8r.  Contreras.  The  ceil- 
ing is  oval.  In  the  domes  are  some 
very  curious  paintings.  The  ceiling  of 
the  central  recess  or  alcove  is  the  brat ,' 
the  background  is  gilt  and  studded 
with  stars.  At  the  extremity  are  two 
escutcheons  and  shields,  red  ground 
traversed  by  a  barre  or.  In  the  centre 
are  painted  ten  Moors  squatting  on 
cushions,  with  long  beards,  their  heads 
covered  up  in  hoods,  and  the  hand 
leaning  on  the  al-fknge,  or  double- 
edged  Arabic  sword.  Much  has  been 
said  and  discussed  about  these  paint- 
ings—who painted  them?  when  f  whom 
are  they  intended  to  represent?  who 
was  the  artist?  Marmol,  'Guerrade 
Granada,'  book  L  pt  1,  says  that  Bal- 
haxix  (Mohammed  II.)  built  the  Alham- 
bra, and  that  the  buildings  were  greatly 
added  to  by  '  dies  sucesores  suyos,  cuyo« 
retratos  se  ven  en  una  sola'  (.'ten  of 
his  successors,  whose  portraits  may  bo 
seen  in  one  of  the  haUs ').  Aigote  de 
MoUinas,  'Paseo8,'vol  ii.  p.  184,  and 
several  other  writers  who  lived  shortly 
after  the  conquest  of  Granada,  confirm 
this  point,  and  in  the  archives  of  the 
Alhambra,  even  those  relating  to  the 


GBANADA — AT.HAMBRA. 


187 


15th  eentuy,  this  room  is  always  styled 
•d  Coartode  los  Betratos'  (the  Hall 
of  the  Portraits).  According  to  the 
Frendi  writer  Gachaid,  there  is  no 
doobt  that  John  Van  Eyck  went  to  the 
Alhambra  about  1428,  accompanying 
the  embassy  sent  to  Portogal  by  the 
Doke  of  Bmgnndy  (whoee  relet  he 
was),  to  solicit  the  hand  of  Isabella, 
the  dan^ter  of  Joam  I.  of  PortngaL 
('  Bathgeber,  Annalen,'  p.  89 ;  Racrinsti, 
•Lea  Arts  en  Pprtngd,' pp.  19fi,  106.) 
Gachard  says  he  went  to  the  Alham- 
bra, and  painted  the  Moorish  kings. 
It  mi^t  be  some  copy  of  this  now  lost 
picture  made  by  some  artist  of  the 
time.  Maestro  Rogel  (Boger  of  Bmges), 
a  scholsr  of  Van  Eyck,  or  another. 

Mr.  Owen  Jones  is  in  fisToor  of  their 
being  Moorish  work,  from  the  purely 
Moorish  ornaments  introdnoed  in  the 
paintings,  and  the  details  in  the  con- 
stnietion  of  the  domes.  (Owen  Jones, 
'Plans,  Elerations,'  etc,  folio ;  London, 
1842,  pUtes  46,  47,  48,  and  50.)  Mr. 
Ford  ('  Handbook,  *  p.  811)  is  of  opinion 
that  tiiey  were  by  some  ChristiBn  rene- 
gade, and  that  the  process  employed 
was  common  to  Byzantine  painters. 
Yiardot  (*  Lea  Mosses  d*Espagne ;'  Paris, 
1860,  pp.  200-205)  beUeres  them  to  be 
posterior  to  the  conquest  of  Granada. 
'These  paintings  are  of  bright  colouv, 
but  in  flat  tints,  and  were  firrt  drawn 
in  outline  in  a  \aown  colour.  They  are 
painted  on  skins  of  animals  sewn  to- 
gether, naUed  to  the  wooden  dome,  a 
fine  coat  of  gypsum  forming  the  surfiMe 
to  receiTe  the  painting.  The  orna- 
ments on  the  gold  ground  are  in  re- 
lief.' (Owen  Jones,  'Alhambra.*)  It 
may  be  that  they  were  placed  after  the 
conquest,  but  ctftainly  they  were  nerer 
the  work  of  Moors.  They  hare  seldom 
departed  from  the  preceptsof  the  Koran, 
prohibiting  the  representation  of  liring 
sobjeets,  especially  of  man,  and  the  few 
eiamples  to  thecontraiy  that  are  ascribed 


to  them  were  most  likely  not  their  work^ 
such  as  the  sarcophagus  found  at  the 
foot  of  the  Torre  de  la  Vela,  the  lions 
in  the  court,  etc  The  ceiling  of  the 
room  on  the  left  represents  a  field  with 
a  lake,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  a 
fountain  with  two  basins,  with  trees, 
woods,  and  birds,  and  two  damsels 
gating  on  the  water.  In  the  wood  a  boar- 
hunt  is  represented,  and  opposite  acastle 
with  turrets,  out  c^  which  two  ladies, 
followed  by  duefias,  are  seen  imsiifug, 
to  receive  Uie  homage  of  two  knights. 
In  the  ceiling  to  the  right  is  represented 
acastle  with  towers,  and  from  the  high- 
est one  a  lady,  with  the  unaroidable 
duefia,  is  entreating  two  kni^ts  who 
are  fighting  to  cease  their  sport  Oppo- 
site tiie  castle  stands  a  woman  holding 
a  couchant  lion  with  a  chain.  Close  to 
her  is  an  enchanter  who  holds  a  lady  in 
captivity,  and  a  mailed  knight  or  cham- 
pion coining  to  free  her.  Intheextzeme 
opposite  of  the  ceiling  there  are  two 
castles  with  ladies  leaning  out  of  the 
windows,  apparently  mudb  distressed, 
and  at  the  foot  of  the  castle  is  another 
lady  sitting  on  a  cushion,  and  pointing 
to  iht  cases  in  a  chess-board.  Hot  frur 
are  two  knights,  one  wounding  a  deer 
and  the  second  some  wild  beast  There 
are  several  dogs,  wild  beasts,  and  £ui- 
tasUcal  birds.  Besides,  Moc^iih  kings 
might  have  employed  some  Christian 
painter,  as  the  Grand  Signer  did  Gentilo 
Bellini,  for  they  were  not  always  at  war 
with  Christians.  Bn  ritumi^  we  are  of 
opinion  that  these  paintings  were  painted 
after  the  conquest^  and  date  of  the  end 
of  the  15th  century,  and  already  far 
from  the  primitive  schools,  approach 
the  characteristics  of  those  of  Comont^ 
Gallegos,  etc 

Th4  FoM, — In  a  small  room  to  the 
right,  and  ill  placed  to  see  it  in  aU  its 
glory,  is  the  celebrated  vase  of  the  Al- 
hambra. This  most  splendid  jar  or 
vase  (Jamm)f  is  enamelled  in  bliM^ 


188 


GRANADA — ALHAMBBA. 


whiter  and  gold  :  the  oompaiiion  wm 
broken  during  the  goveraor  Montilla's 
time,  and  the  fifgmenta  sold  to  a  French 
lady.  It  it  a  fine  specimen  of  the 
Moonih  ceramic  art^  and  dates  1820, 
belonging  to  the  first  period  of  the 
histoiy  of  Moorish  porcdain.  It  is  4 
It.  8  in.  high.  The  ground  is  white^ 
and  the  ornaments  blue.  In  the  middle 
are  two  animals,  mora  like  llamas  than 
camels.  It  was  found  Ibll  of  gold.  The 
inscription  has  been  differently  inter- 
preted, but  all  the  oonunentariee  made 
are  sheer  nonsense.  The  only  inscrip- 
tion is  'Eternal  SalTation,'  repeated 
▼ery  often.  Hero  would  be  another 
subject  of  controyersy— wero  the  ani- 
nuds  painted  by  Moorish  artistit 

Stpukkrai  Sldb$. — In  the  rooms  on 
the  left  aro  two  sepulchral  slabs  of  the 
kings  Tusuf  III.  and  Mohammed  II. 
Four  only  were  found  in  the  Pantheon 
or  tomb-house  of  the  Moorish  kings, 
which  was  situated  not  Ut  from  the 
Court  of  lions^  and  dose  to  the  actual 
habitations  of  the  curate  of  the  Alham- 
bra.  They  were  found  in  1674  (the  two 
others  of  Ismael  and  Yusuf  I.  have 
disappeared),  were  placed  perpendicu- 
larly,  and  tiie  letters  gflt.on  a  blue 
ground.  On  one  side  was  a  long  inscrip- 
tion in  prose  (which  has  been  eopied, 
thou^  somewhat  erroneously,  it  is  said, 
by  Ai.  del  Castilo),  and  on  the  other 
the  defimct  monarch's  eulogium  in  Terse. 
The  inscription  of  Yusuf  III.  is  much 
deteriorated. 

The  sUb  of  Mohammed  II.  is  of  white 
marble,  and  is  much'  better  preserved. 
It  was  formerly  placed  over  the  fountain 
in  the  garden  of  the  Adarres.  It  i» 
inferior  in  the  poetical  sentiment.  A 
sort  of  sarcophagus  with  a  basso-reliero 
that  was  found  hi  the  gardens  has  been 
removed  hither  too  ;  the  subject  seems 
to  be  a  fl^t  between  lions  and  deer, 
done  in  tibe  moet  rough,  coarse  way. 
We  also  think  them  not  to  be  Moorish 


work,  and  that,  notwithstanding  the 
Moorish  ornamentation,  that  they  wero 
probably  found  in  some  Wisigothio 
ruins,  and  may  have  formed  part  of  a 
retablo. 

Sola  de  las  Doa  ffermaiuu  (Hall  of 
the  Two  Sisten),  formerly  called  De 
las  Losas  (slabs). — The  explosion  of  the 
gunpowder  magasine  already  referred  to 
injured  this  hdl  as  well  as  that  of  the 
Tribunal,  destroying  in  both  the  beau- 
tiM  glass  windows^  which  were  painted 
'con  muchas  istorias  y  annas  reales.* 
(Archives. )  This  suite  of  rooms  derives 
its  name  from  two  equal-sized  white 
slabs  which  form  a  portion  of  the  pave- 
ment, and  are  called  'The  Sisters.' 
Before  entering  into  this  moet  beautiful 
hall,  observe  the  aroh  with  the  white 
marUe  on  the  sides,  and  on  it  'There 
is  no  conqueror  but  Ctod,'  etc.  This 
arch  leads  into  a  narrow  antechamber ; 
on  the  sides  are  small  doors,  opening  on 
inner  rooms.  The  second  areh  is  also 
ovaL  On  the  impost,  archivolt,  etc, 
are  several  diminutive  shields  with  the 
usual  motto.  Everything  here  ought 
to  be  attentively  examined,  for  all  is 
exquisite.  The  pavement  risesgradually. 
Obeerve  the  effect  from  the  Court  of 
Lions  towards  the  Mirador  of  Lindanes. 
In  the  four  walls  of  this  hall  there  are 
arches,  one  at  the  entrance,  two  on  the 
sides  over  the  alcoves  {aU  hamia,  Arabici) 
or  recesses  in  the  wall,  and  a  fourth 
leadingto  the  square  hall  leadingtothe 
Mirador  de  Lindaraga.  On  the  walls 
the  asulcjos  rise  to  a  certain  height, 
forming  rich  alicatado  work  ;  it  is  de- 
corated at  intervals  with  the  shield  of 
Ibn-1-Ahmar.  Over  each  arch  there  is 
a  latticed  window,  with  wooden/oZoiuiet 
(a  most  appropriate  name),  belonging 
to  the  upper  floor.  There  is  a  fountain 
in  the  middle.  The  stalactite  roof  is 
most  wondeifril ;  '  nearly  6000  pieces,' 
says  Owen  Jones,  'enter  into  its  con- 
struction, and  though  they  are  mostly  of 


GRANADA — ^ALHAMBRA. 


189 


plaster,  strengthened  /here  and  there 
with  pieces  of  reed,  no  part  of  the  palace 
is,  in  the  present  day,  in  a  more  perfect 
stete  of  presenration.'  It  is  a  prolbsion 
of  Taolts,  miniature  domes,  most  rich 
and  elaborate.  This  formed  a  portion 
of  the  prirate  apartments  of  the  wires 
and  slaree  of  the  khilit  On  the  al- 
cores  on,  each  side  were  dirans  and 
coaches ;  but  it  was  principally  destined 
for  the  khilifs  wires  and  slaves.  This 
•hall  abounds  with  inscriptions,  all  al- 
lusire,  and  of  a  character  suited  to  the 
dwelling  of  the  black-eyed  sultanas, 
^r.  Owen  Jones  has  eopied  most,  but 
omitted  unintentionally  the  eight  me- 
dallions between  the  sixteen  circles  on 
the  walL  The  last  medallion  is  a  re- 
petition, as  the  anterior  has  been  de- 
stroyed. 

We  omit  this  poem,  as  well  as  the  rest, 
the  beauty  of  which  lies  rather  in  the 
musical  sounds  and  words^  than  in  feel- 
ing or  thouf^t. 

CbfTseior,  AfUetala  del  Mirador  de 
lAmdaraja  (leading  to  the  Mirador  of 
lindanga). — ^The  arch  leading  to  this 
hall  has  an  inscription  in  African  char- 
acters^ and  two  niches  on  the  sides. 
This  room  is  square,  and  has  a  pretty 
stalactite  ro<^  with  thirteen  diminutiTe 
cupolas.  In  the  wall  in  front  are  two 
i^imei  windows,  supported  by  marble 
and  stucco  columns. 

Mirador  de  lAmdaraja  (from  mhrwr^ 
tMtftN^  .to  see,  to  admire,  to  look  on, 
or  out),  a  boudoir  of  the  miltana.  It  is 
a  perfect  square,  and  looks  on  the  gar- 
den of  the  same  name.  There  are  three 
igimes  windows.  The  eomioe  is  com- 
posed of  small  eolumns,  arches,  niches, 
etc  :  the  frieze  is  charming ;  the  arte- 
sonado  oeiling  peculiar  in  its  eonstruc- 
tion. 

PaHo  de  la  iZ^d.— On  the  left  of  the 
hall,  between  the  lljrador  and  Hall  of 
the  Two  Sisters,  is  a  door,  which  leads 
throng  a  modernised  corridor  to  some 


rooms  repaired  and  modernised  by 
Charles  Y.,  painted  by  sereral  artists, 
and  whitewashed  when  Philip  Y.  was 
in  Granada.  There  are*  the  initials  K. 
and  I.,  Charles  and  Isabella.  Turning 
on  the  left,  and  throu^^  another  cor- 
ridor, we  arrirahat  a  sniall  patio  called 
d4  la  jR^  (of  the  railin|^  so  called 
from  the  iron  one  placed  here,  and  rest- 
ing on  iron  pillsrs.  It  was  placed  here 
about  the  year  1689,  and  it  is  thought 
that  in  the  adjoining  room  the  silver 
of  the  kings  was  kept  when  they  lived 
in  the  AUuunbra.  Opposite  are  the 
Bath-rooms ;  on  the  left^  the  Court  of 
lindan^a;  on  the  righ^  the  Hall  de 
lasNinfas. 

Sola  d$  lot  BatUm  (Bath-rooms). — 
This  suite  of  apartments  must  have 
been  considerably  more  numerous, 
though  they  were  the  private  baths  for 
the  sultan  and  royal  family.  Their 
system  of  bathing  was  what  we  now 
call  Turkish  baths,  and  the  way  that 
the  pipes  and  apparatus  themselves 
were  Uid  down  would  give  us  no  mean 
idea  of  the  proficiency  of  the  Moors  in 
these  mattersi  The  first  room  is  called 
(huurto  d$  laa  CfamaSf  6  del  Deeeaeuo 
{Repom),  Chamber  of  the  Couches,  or  of 
Rest  It  has  been  very  aUy  restored 
by  8r.  Contreras.  It  is  square,  with 
four  marble  pillars  forming  a  gallery  all 
round,  and  on  the  sides  two  alhamis,  or 
alcoves,  formed  by  two  arches,  which 
are  supported  by  columns.  Within  the 
alcove  was  a  raised-up  couch,  upon 
which  the  cushions  were  placed.  In 
the  middle  a  fountain.  On  the  waUs, 
over  the  azul^os,  the  badge  with  Charles 
y:»motto, 'pluiuUnL*  At  each  of  the 
four  angles  a  small  door,  arched,  lead- 
ing to  the  bath-rooms.  '  They  were 
made  in  Abu  Abdilla's  time,  and  pro- 
bably about  1808  to  1806,  as  the  in- 
scriptions allude  to  the  hopes  thst  God 
may  grant  him  a  speedy  and  near  vic- 
toiy.    The  upper  portion  is  formed  by 


190 


QRANADA — ^ALHAMBRA. 


foor  arches  to  each  wall,  connected  hj 
nilinga.  There  are  aixteen  windowa, 
oyer  theae  a  wooden  jalonsie,  and  orer 
thia  again  a  aaperb  arteaonado  ceiling. 
The  upper  gallerj  waa  need,  for  mnai- 
dana^  who  played  and  aang  whilst  the 
bathers  were  resting  on  the  oonchea 
after  being  shampooed.  This  leads  to 
some  small  rooms ;  the  first,  Bafto  de 
los  Nifios,  used  by  the  Sultan's  chfldren. 
They  are  each  about  8  ft  long  by  5  ft 
wide.  In  each  ia  a  small  recess  in  the 
wall,  like  a  cabinet,  formed  by  a  horse- 
ahoe  arch,  and  in  it  a  bath  in  white 
marble.  Orer  this,  on  the  wall,  a  niche 
where  to  place  the  alippers,  etc.,  and 
under  it  the  pipea.  From  theae  you 
pass  to  another,  18  ft  long  by  8  wide, 
which  serres  as  an  antechamber  leading 
to  a  square  one.  Here  at  each  side  are 
aloores,  and  in  front  a  door  leading  to 
the  principal  bath>room.  There  are 
two  fine  large  baths  here ;  one  is  10  ft 
long;  64  wide  (across),  with  two  stop- 
pers to  warm  the  water ;  the  other  one 
is  square,  and  all  hare  niches.  This 
room  communicated  formerly  with 
othera  where  the  water  was  heated, 
etc.  The  parement  of  all  these  rooms 
is  of  white  Hacael  marble.  The  roof 
was  lighted  up  with  lumbrertu,  lawvm, 
or  port-holes,  cut  into  the  shape  of 
stars.  The  domes  of  the  Rrard*-raha  in 
the  East  hare  similar  aperturea.  The 
recesses  formed  by  the  columns  had 
probably  dlTans,  where  the  manipula- 
tions were  performed.  These  wem 
probably  the  hot  and  cold  baths,  called 
in  the  East  HlUi'-a-i^ehs. 

Sola  ds  lot  SeertUm  (Chamber  of  8e- 
creta),  which  ought  rather  to  hare 
been  called  Chamber  of  Indiscretiona. 
Applying  the  ear  to  an  opening  made 
at  each  angle,  one  can  hear  what  is  said 
at  the  other  extremity,  howerer  low 
spoken.  This  is  an  acoustical  derice, 
produced  by  the  ahape  of  the  ceilln^^ 
which  forma  an  elliptacal  figure ;  thus 


all  aonofous  sounds,  spreading  tnm  a 
focufl^  are  reflected  to  another  one  by 
the  hollow  walls.  There  is  another 
similar  McrsCf-room  near  the  Ifyrtit 
Court. 

Jardin  de  Lindarqfa  (Garden  of  lin- 
danga). — A  small  garden.  In  the 
middle  ia  a  fine  fountain  with  a  basin 
10  ft  diameter ;  fhnn  its  centre  a  high 
pedestal  springs,  which  supports  a  tans, 
which  haa  the  ahape  of  a  ahell;  its 
workmanship  is  Arab^  and  the  inaerip- 
tion  around  it  partly  worn  out 

All  round  this  guden  is  a  gallery, 
aupported  by  fifteen  Arab  columns  on 
two  sides,  and  on  the  third  by  machonee 
of  brick.  In  this  court  is  a  window 
with  a  superb  look-out  on  the  woods  of 
the  Alhambra,  Generalife,  Darro,  etc. 

Under  the  Salon  de  Comares  is  the 
chamber  called  'de  las  Ninfas,*  rarely 
ahown,  which  contains  some  statues  of 
nymphs  sscribed  to  the  artists  brought 
by  CSiariea  Y.  for  his  palace  here,  and 
a  medallion  of  Carrara  marble  repre- 
senting Jupiter  metamorphosed  into  a 
swan,  etc.,  and  two  fanivk 

Close  by  is  a  small  room,  from  which 
the  ascent  is  made  to  the  Royal  Chapel, 
rarely  shown.  The  ceiling  is  inlaid, 
the  colouring  fine.  Some  suppose  that 
the  window  on  the  right  aerred  to  let 
down  Boabdil,  and  not  that  in  the 
Hall  of  Ambassadors,  which  is  higher. 
The  CapiUa  Real,  which  was  used  by 
the  Catholic  kings,  is  a  mixture  of  Arab 
and  Christian  styles,  of  Koranic  aigna 
mixed  with  the  Catholic  ones,  and 
shields,  eta  Orer  the  altar  is  a  ^cture 
by  Rincon,  the  Adoration  of  the  Kings ; 
at  each  aide  an  image  repreaenting 
Vice.  The  windows  look  on  some 
grounds  and  paltry  hovels,  which  once 
were  part  of  the  palace^  and  presenre 
here  and  there  some  yesUges  of  past 
msgnifioence. 

Toeador  d$  la  Bei/na  (the  Queen's 
Boudoir). — A  heavy  gallery,  built  by 


GRANADA — ^ALHAMBRA. 


19) 


Charles  V.,  leads  to  this  room.  It  is 
9  ft  square.  In  a  comer  of  the  room 
is  a  marble  slab^  drilled  with  sixteen 
holes  to  admit  perfumes  whilst  the  sul- 
tana was  at  her  boudoir ;  but  we  rather 
think  that  it  was  a  sort  of  ealorifir^ 
oontrired  by  the  chilly  Charles  y.  The 
walls  are  fresco-paintad  with  snbjects, 
yiews  of  sea-ports ;  the  frieze  is  com- 
posed of  sphinxes,  genii,  winged  heads 
of  serpents,  etc.  eta  There  are  nine 
windows^  and  between  each  are  in- 
different paintings,  snch  as  the  Fall  of 
Phaeton,  eta  The  artesonado  ceiling 
is  pyramidal,  with  inlaid  wood  painted 
and  gilt ;  round  are  serend  Arab  pQ- 
lars,  mudi  deteriorated,  and  half  block- 
ed up  by  Charles  Y.  There  are  also 
sereral  figures  painted,  representing 
Faith,  Hope^  and  Chari^,  Justice,  eta 
The  initials  F.  and  Y.  are  the  mono- 
grams of  Philip  Y.  and  Isabella  The 
frescoes  are  by  Bartholomew  Rigos, 
whose  brother  Pedro  has  left  some  works 
at  Granada,  and  by  Alfonso  Peres  and 
Juan  de  la  Fuenta  This  room  was 
used  by  the  Arabs  as  a  mihHUv  or  ora- 
tory, for  the  erening  prayers.  The 
tower  is  lofty.  The  view  from  it  is 
rery  grand — the  Generalife  with  its 
gardens  and  white  spariding  buildings, 
the  riyer  Darro  and  its  banks  lined 
with  poplars,  the  yerdant  Yega,  and 
snow-dad  Sierra  Nerada. 

La  Maqmia  (the  Mosque). —Near  the 
entrance  is  an  elaborate  and  beautiful 
nicha  This  mosque  was  converted  into 
a  chapel  by  Charles  Y. ;  a  great  many 
ii^juriee  and  sad  restorations  and  changes 
haye  taken  plaoa  The  walls  haye  been 
whitewashed,  the  hall  reduced  almost 
to  half  its  former  size  by  a  railing,  and 
the  floor  considerably  raised.  The 
canred  roof  is  exquisite,  resembling 
tortoise-shell  work,  and  gilt;  it  was 
repainted  by  Ferdinand  and  Isabella. 
Near  the  entrance,  on  the  right,  is  the 
exquisite  niche  in  which  the  Koran 


deposited.  The  inscription  on  the  sides 
is  taken  fh>m  the  7th  Sura  of  the  Koran, 
yerside  204 :  'Be  not  one  of  the  negli- 
gent' The  altar  is  heayy,  and  placed 
in  the  middla  The  floor  of  the  mosque 
has  been  lowered  about  2  ft,  with  a 
yiew  to  obtain  height  for  the  raised 
gallery  or  pew.  The  azul^os  are  yery 
fine,  and  run  up  the  walls  about  6  ft 
high ;  the  inscriptions  are  only  the  often- 
repeated  yerses  of 

The  glory  a  God's ;  the  power  it  God's;  the 
empire  is  God's. 

Between  the  azulejos,  '  There  is  no  con- 
queror but  God,*  and  the  ahidds  of  the 
kings  of  Granada,  bearing  the  aboye 
motto.  The  capitals  of  the  choir  pil- 
lars were  gilt  and  painted  by  Prado  in 
1681. 

I\Uio  de  ta  Metfuiia  (Mosque).— On 
the  right  of  this  patio  is  a  sort  of  portico 
or  atrium,  formed  by  three  arches, 
which  are  supported  by  marble  columns, 
with  a  door  leading  to  the  corridor 
communicating  with  Uiemosqua  There 
are  some  yestiges  of  elaborate  ornament- 
ation, many  inscriptions,  and  seyeial 
windows.  It  was  built  by  Mohammed 
Y.,  as  the  yerse  on  the  wooden  frieze 
under  the  roof  has  it,  which  must  for^ 
merly  haye  gone  round  the  whole  court 
A  fa^e  wiUi  exquisite  decorations  well 
presenred,  a  rich  stalactite  ornament 
under  the  cornice;  a  modem  gallery 
ii\jures  the  general  effect 
.  Nwhdiseovered  HaiL^k  hall  called 
Sala  de  los  Blasones,  or  Hall  of  the 
Shidds  or  Escutcheons,  because  it  is 
decorated  with  seyeral  shields  with 
initials,  has  been  latdy  discoVered. 
The  walls  were  whitewashed,  thus  con- 
cealing the  former  Arabic  work,  and  are 
being  restored ;  the  plaster  has  been 
taken  down,  and  the  wonderful  orna- 
mentation is  now  reyealed.  Its  former 
stalaotical  roof  and  ornamentation  are' 
of  the  work  called  Comarrsgia  (that  of 
Hall  of  Ambassadors),  and  are  now  bdng 


192 


GRANADA — ALHAMBRA. 


extricated  out  of  the  modem  roof  which 
ilieadj  existed  in  FhOipy/s  time.  It 
WM  probably  used  for  festivitiea,  or  as 
a  dining-room.  The  baaqneting-hall  in 
the  East  was  always  near  a  court  and 
garden  (compare  Esther  vii  7»  8). 

Mimor  CwioMet  vrithin  the  dremU 
of  the  Alhambra,^Ajtnakd  the  walls  are 
sereral  Unpen  still  extant,  bat  mostly 
going  fast  to  min ;  some  desenre  very 
close  examination  trom  their  beantifiil 
workmanship.    In  the  Adanres  ia  kept 
a  statoe  of  Paris.     According  to  some, 
it  is  a  Roman  statne;   according  to 
others,  it  was  made  and  destined  for 
the  palace  of  Charles  Y.    There  ia  also 
a  pillar,  with  the  Latin  inscription, 
'Cornelia    L.    F. ;     Comelianre ;    P. 
Valerias   Lucanos.     Uxori   indalgen- 
tissimae,  D.D.  L.D.  O.D.*    It  was  pro- 
bably over  a  Roman  tomb,  and  dedi- 
cated, as  it  runs,  by  one  Valerias  Locan 
to  hie  most  indulgerU  wife,  Cornelia. 
Before  these  we  most  mention   the 
parish  church  of  SUl  Maria  de  la  Al- 
hambra.     It  was  bailt  in  1581  by  a 
Borgalese  architect,  Juan  de  Vega,  and 
was  finished  in  1688.     It  was  built 
for  Philip  II.,  and  it  is  supposed  Juan 
de  Herrera  was  not  a  stranger  to  the 
general  plan.    On  the  S.  end,  let  into 
the  wall,  is  a  slab  of  Mocael  marble  with 
a  Gothic  inscription  referring  to  the  con- 
secration of  three  churches  buOt  in  the 
times  of  the  kings  Viterico  and  Recared. 
This  church  was  built  on  the  site  of  the 
great  mosque  which  was  destroyed  (fell 
down)    in    time   of   Philip    II.     The 
mosque  was  built  by  Mohammed  Abu 
Abdallah  III.   in    1808,   and    Ibn-ul- 
Kattib  describes  it  thus : 

*  Ii  is  onuuneoted  with  mosaic  woric  tad.  ex- 
quiuM  tnctrf  of  the  roost  beautiful  and  tntri- 
cata  patterns,  btennixed  with  silver  flowers 
and  graceful  arches,  supported  by  ionuraerable 
pillars  of  the  finest  polished  marble'  (Oajr- 
angos). 

The  sultan  had  consecrated  to  it  part 

of  the  taxes  paid  by  Jews  and  Chris- 


tians,, and  had  .sold  sereral  estate! 
to  make  a  rent  for  ii— (Ossiri,  'BibL 
Aiabico-Hispana.*)  In  Al  Eallet,  par. 
5,  Hah.  III.,  quoted  by  Laftiente  Al- 
cantara. The  Convent  qf  San  Franeieeo, 
now  securaUsed,  is  not  hr  from  this, 
and  was  the  first  built  after  the  con- 
quest by  Talarera,  the  confessor  of 
Isshella,  in  1492.  At  their  death,  the 
bodies  of  the  Catholic  kings  were  first 
placed  here  untQ  remored,  in  162^  to 
the  Capilla  ReaL  There  were  gardens 
here,  and  the  bath-houses  of  the  Moorish 
princes. 

Fmirese. — ^The  walled  circuit  formed 
by  the  fortress  of  the  Alhambra  is  the 
highest  in  the  capital ;  it  is  2690  ft 
(Spanish)  long  by  780  ft  in  its  widest 
part  The  arerage  thickness  of  tho 
walls  is  5  ft  and  the  height  27  ft  In 
the  walls  there  sre  at  intervals  turrets, 
which  begin  at  the  Torre  do  la  Vela, 
follow  the  Adanres,  Gate  of  Justice, 
Tower  of  Prisons,  Tower  of  the  Siete 
Suelos  (where  the  door  still  exists,  but 
blocked  up,  through  which  Boabdi. 
sallied  to  meet  the  Catliolic  kings), 
Torre  of  the  Water,  To^'ers  of  Catholic 
Kings,  of  Los  Picos,  Infanta,  Comares, 
the  circular  cubo  tower  of  Homenage 
and  tho  Quebrodo,  and  that  of  the  Ar- 
moury close  to  the  Vela.  The  French 
on  withdrawing  exploded  great  part  of 
the  fortress,  especially  that  towards 
the  GeneraUfe. 

The  walls  and  towers  are  made  of 
chinarro  (flint,  earth,  and  lime),  which 
become  like  stone  under  that  petrifying 
baking  sun.  Not  a  less  curious  por- 
tion is  the  subterraneous  Alhambra, 
full  of  corridors,  chambers,  etc,  which 
served  the  princes  as  ways  of  escape 
during  the  often-occurring  intrigues  and 
other  dangers  of  war  and  faction. 

Meeae  de  Marmot  {Marble  TahUs) 
may  be  seen  at  the  governor's  room. 
They  are  of  a  white  marble,  wonder* 
fWly  worked  out     What  their  former 


QBANAOA — ^ALHAMBRA. 


193 


me  mi^t  be  is  not  known,  bat  probably 
these  were  pieced  In  a  mihrkb,  from  the 
inscription* 

On  the  other  table  the  only  inscription 
is :  '  There  is  no  conqueror  bat  Qod.' 

Towen, — (Torre  de  las  Infantas). 
— Once  the  residence  of  the  Mooridi 
princesses.  Mnch  oat  of  repair  now ; 
beantifdl  decorations ;  machicolated 
roof^  and  portico  leading  into  a  pretty 
gallery;  two  arches^  with  a  slender 
oolomn  between  them,  are  exquisitely 
ornamented ;  poor  in  inscriptions  :  one 
rons  thns : — 'Glory  be  to  our  lord  the 
Saltan  Aba  AbdiUah,  the  contented 
with  God.' 

Torre  de  la  OauHva  (CaptiTe). — 
So  called  because  it  was  probably  for 
some  time  the  residence  of  the  beanti- 
ful  Christian  prisoner,  Dofia  Isabel  de 
Soils,  who  became  the  farourite  sultana 
of  Aba  Hasen,  who  called  her  the 
Morning  Star,  '  Tsorayya, '  or  '  Zoraya ' 
(the  word  in  Arabic  rather  signifies  'the 
Pleiades '  than  any  determined  star. — 
'  Iscripdones  de  Granada,'  p.  176. 
Obserre  the  slender  arches  and  a  deli- 
cate tarkish.  There  is  a  small  and 
spadous  chamber  in  this  tower  which 
has  neyer  yet  been  mentioned  in  any 
other  description  of  the  Alhambra,  nor 
hare  its.  inscriptions  been  quoted, 
copied,  or  translated.  Its  rich  orna- 
mentation belongs  to  the  style  called 
oomarragia,  of  which  the  Hall  of  Am- 
bassadors Is  a  fine  specimen,  and  it 
was  most  probably  (a  presumption 
based  on  the  adoption  of  this  style  and 
the  inscription)  erected  by  Abol-Had- 
jig-Tusoi;  7th  king  of  the  Beni-Kasr 
dynasty.  The  greater  portion  is  weU 
preserred,  now  and  then  ill  restored 
and  whitewashed.  It  is  square,  has 
three  windows  and  one  door.  On  the 
portico  are  four  inscriptions  of  the 
osoal  short  sentences.  On  the  walls 
forming  the  four  angles  are  other  in- 
scripticoii. 


On  another  wall  may  be  read  the 
114th  Sura,  wherein  the  dogma  of  the 
unity  of  God  is  opposed  to  'that  of  the 
Holy  Trinity.  (In  the  coins  of  the 
Ehaliis  of  the  East  and  Spain,  untU 
the  period  of  the  Almoravides^  this 
same  legend  is  found,  which  constitates 
one  of  the  fundamental  dogmas  of  the 
Mussulman  religion. ' 

This  tower  must  hare  been  built 
about,  or  rather  after,  1826.  The 
eapUve  might  hare  been  the  £ur  Chris- 
tian that  Abul  WaM  IsmaSl  (who 
died  1826)  carried  off  from  the  harems 
of  Mohammed  Abu  IsmaSl,  king  of 
Algedras,  at  the  siege  of  Martos. 

At  the  Torre  del  Agaa,  now  destroyed, 
there  is  an  aqueduct  which  supplies  the 
hill  with  water. 

Cfuarto  Seal  (Bqyal  Chamber)  In  the 
garden,  or  rather  huerta,  which  once 
belonged  to  the  Conrent  of  San  Do* 
mingo.  The  exterior  is  solenm,  plain,, 
and  severe,  as  are  all  Mooridi  palaces  ; 
the  inside  is  a  square  room,  lofty  and 
spacious,  which  was  the  secluded  palace 
to  which  the  Granadine  kings  resorted 
for  the  Bhamadan  or  fiuting  period, 
and  the  inscriptions  seem  to  confirm 
this  presumption ;  much  deteriorated. 
It  is  private  property,  and  an  endearour 
is  being  made  to  repair  it  welL  The 
entrance  is  by  an  arich  rery  weU  pre- 
serred,  and  upon  its  jambs  on  the  asn- 
1^'os  (left  and  right)  there  is  a  compli- 
cated and  showy  effect  of  whiter  green, 
and  purple. 

See  iJso  four  exquiritely  decorated 
arches,  abore  which  were  as  many 
windows,  now  filled  up;  beantiftiUy 
inlaid  roof;  charming  azulcjo  columns ; 
and  the  arched  aloore  wi^  Its  pretty 
window.  The  white  tHes  with  golden 
scroll  must  be  obserred,  as  being  excep- 
tions to  the  rule. 

OenenOifo. — Jennatu-r4rif,  Ara- 
bic^, the  Garden  of  the  Arohiteot— 


194 


GRANADA — ALHAMBRA. 


This  rammer  rflk  of  the  raltans  of 
OrmiiAdA  WM,  probably,  in  the  first  in- 
ttftnce,  an  important  watch-tower,  or 
advanoed  sen  try  of  the  fortreas  of  the  Al- 
hambra.    It  was  bnilt  no  donbt  by  the 
first  kings  of  Granada,  and  considerably 
enlarged,  or  rather  rebuilt,  in  the  reign, 
of  Abu-1-WAlid,  abont  the  'Year  of 
the  Great  Victory  of  Religion, 'as  the 
inscriptions  run,  that  is  in  the  month 
of  Rabit  1,  719,  which  corresponds  to 
April-May,  1819 — the  rery  year  when 
the  armies  of  the  Infantes  D.  Jnan  and 
D.  Pedro  were  routed  and  the  pinoes 
killed ;  an  event  that  took  plaM  dose 
to  Sierra  Elyira.      Hibmol,  who  wrote 
in  the  16th  oentoiy,  derives  the  etymo- 
logy from  'Garden  of  the  Dance '  (De 
la  Zambra),  which  certainly  would  ap- 
pear more  appropriate  to  this  the  abode 
of  pleasure  and  revelry.    The  palace 
and   gardens  became  the  hereditary 
alcaldia  of  the  house  of  Avila,  and  sub- 
sequently by  marriage  a  portion  of  the 
estates  of  the  Marquis  of  Gampo  Tejar 
(of  the  Italian  Grimaldi-Gentili  family 
of  Genoa),  Philip  lY.  having  made  it  a 
perpetual  grant  to  the  house  of  Granada 
and  Yen^gas.     There  is^  besides,  an- 
other house  of  Granada,  whose  dukes 
are  descendants  of  Dofia  Isabel  de  Solis 
(Zoraya),    the   fair   sultana   of  Abu- 
Hasen.     This  palace,  which  was  used 
on  great  festal  occasions,  is  inferior  to 
the  Alhambra  in  size  and  general  style. 
Our  appreciation  of  its  merits  is^  how- 
ever, liable  to  mistake,  as  whitewash 
and  neglect  have  been  busy  at  work, 
and  but  little   remains  to  recal  the 
glowing  descriptions  contained  in  the 
few  poems  which   have  escaped   the 
wrathful  hands  of  restorers.    A  princi- 
pal feature  must  have  been  the  gardens 
and  waters.      The  canal  of  the  Darro 
empties  here  its  abundant  and  rapid 
waters,  which  fiow  throngh  a  series  of 
evergreen    arches    formed    by    yews 
twisted  and  cut  into  quaint  patterns. 


On  the  sides  grow  oranges  and  lemon 
trees,  their  vivid  shining  leaves  con- 
trasting pleasantly  with  the  sombre 
arrowy  cjrpresses. 

On  leaving  the  Alhambra,  passing  by 
the  Hotel  de  los   Siele   Suelos,   and 
glancing  to  some  ruins  on  the  left,  said 
to  be  remains  of  the  stables  of  the 
Moorish  guard,  we  turn  to  the  left  and 
enter,  by  a  small  wooden   gate^  the 
principal  avenue  of  the  villa,  which  on 
approaching  nearer  is  shaded  by  tall 
seciilar  cypresses  and  hedges.    On  ar- 
riving; the  portress,  who  seems  a  de- 
scendant of  the  former  door-keepers  of 
the  palace^  comes  down  lazily  and  opens 
the  door,  which  leads  into  a  spacious 
patio^  with  a  garden  in  the  middle, 
through  which  runs  the  Acequia.      A 
long  gallery,   decorated  with   slender 
pillars  and  seventeen  arches  runs  on 
the  left,   overlooking  the  Alhambra. 
Whitewash  laid  in  thick  ooate  has  con- 
cealed, and  may  have  saved  in  some 
respect,  the  delicate  tarkish,  the  ceil- 
ing; and  arabesques  over  the  pillars. 
The   chapel   into  which  visitors   are 
taken  next  is  most  indifferent,  and  was 
built  on  the  site  of  a  Moorish  oratory, 
or  mihrkb,  of  which  some  portions  may 
be  still  descried.    A  few  modernised 
rooms   follow,   in  one  of  which    are 
placed  some  daubs  vouchsafed  as  au- 
thentic portraite  of  Boabdll,  the  Catho- 
lic Kings,  Oonzala  de  Cordova,  and 
any  other  hero  you  may  choose.    There 
is,  however,  close  by,  a  most  exquisite 
boudoir,  which  has  preserved  ite  former 
style.      Observe  the   coloured  domic 
ceiling;  the  stuccoed  walls,  which  look 
like  the  open  worked  leaves  of  a  Chinese 
fan. 

Pass  on  by  a  staircase  to  The  Court 
of  the  Cypresies.  It  is  square,  with  a 
pond  in  the  centre,  surrounded  by 
hedges  of  roses,  with  coloured  flower- 
pots. The  garden  preserves  the  general 
fonn  of  the  Moorish  period ;  but  was 


GRANADA — CATHEDRAL. 


195 


modernised  in  the  reign  of  Charles  Y. 
Obeenre  the  beantiful  cypresses,  which 
date  from  the  time  of  the  Moors. 
Under  one  of  the  hu^gest»  a  lore-scene 
is  said  to  have  taken  place,  in  which 
Sultana  Zoraya  was  the  heroine;  but 
the  authenticity  of  the  story  is  doubted. 

A  mirador  crowns  the  slopes;  the 
Tiew  from  which  is  glorious.  A  side- 
door  leads  to  the  SiUa  del  Mora,  a  hill, 
the  summit  of  which,  now  desolate^  was 
the  site  of  the  celebrated  Al^ares,  the 
sumptuous  Moorish  palace^  next  to 
whidii  the  Alhambra  was  insignificant 
They  were  decorated  in  the  Comarragia 
style,  and  surrounded  with  beautifril 
gMdens.  Here  was  also  the  far-famed 
summer-Yilla  of  Darlaroca,  or  the 
Bride's  Palace ;  and  on  the  other  side, 
descending  towards  the  Genii,  stood 
the  wond^nl  aviary  of  Dar-al-wad,  or 
House  of  the  Riyer.  There  are  some 
remains  of  a  mihriib  and  Moorish  tanks, 
the  largest  of  which  is  the  Algibe  de  la 
LluTia. 

Proceed  next,  turning  to  the  rights 
to  the  site  of  the  Oampe  de  lo8  Martirea, 
On  this  spot  Boabdil,  the  day  of  the 
surrender  of  his  capital,  met  Cardinal 
Mendosa,  and  proceeding  a  little  farther, 
dose  to  the  present  small  church  of  St 
Sebastian,  the  ill-fated  dethroned  mon- 
arch held  the  interriew,  already  de- 
scribed with  the  Catholic  Kings,  who, 
on  January  6,  entered  the  city,  holding 
a  grand  lev^  in  the  Hall  of  Comaree. 
The  conyent,  once  situated  here,  has 
been  removed.  The  slopes  of  the  hill 
are  covered  with  excavated  hovels,  in- 
habited by  gipsies,  and  farther  on  by 
ctoienes  or  villas.  To  the  left  a  small 
avenue  leads  to  the  fine  mansion  and 
gardens  of  Sr.  Oalderon.  Following  the 
road  by  the  gardens,  we  reach  the 
T€fTt$  Berm^fos,  or  Red  Towera  Here 
is  the  Church  of  San  Cecilio,  a  Mux- 
arabie  church  during  the  Moslem's  sway, 
raised  to  a  parish  in  1601. 


CBi^cbial. — Hours  to  see  Cathedral, 
8  A.M.  to  12  A.M.,  and  8  P.M.  to  5  p.m. 
To  see  the  Chapel  Royal,  after  or  before 
the  coro  service,  apply  at  sacristia  for 
the  dvil  sacristan,  Don  Antonio.  This 
fine  specimen  of  the  Grasco-Roman  style 
was  intended  by  the  architect  to  ^ 
second  to  no  church  in  the  world,  '  ex- 
cept^ perhaps,  St  PeterV*  The  pro- 
portions are  good,  but  the  building  is 
not  seen  to  advantage,  from  being 
rather  choked  up  by  the  surrounding 
houses.  It  was  built  on  the  site  of  the 
great  mosque,  and  begun  in  1520  by 
Diego  de  Siloe,  son  and  scholar  of  the 
celebrated  Buigalese,  Gil  de  Siloe^  con- 
tinued by  his  pupil,  Juan  de  Maeda, 
and  Juan  de  Or^  one  of  the  architects 
who  worked  at  the  palace  of  Charles  Y. 
It  was  completed  in  1639.  Eodmor, — 
It  is  placed  between  the  Plaza  de  Bi- 
barrambla  and  that  of  Las  Pasiegas; 
the  principal  facade  is'  in  the  latter 
square,  and  is  composed  of  three  en- 
trances, adorned  wiUi  statues  and  alto- 
relievos.  Interior, — Noble,  simple,  and 
grand,  divided  into  five  naves;  the 
pillars  massive,  but  not  out  of  keeping 
with  the  idea  of  vastness  and  hdght 
which  pervades  the  rest  The  <Aoir  is 
in  the  middle ;  the  stalls  of  dilTerent 
periods  and  indifierent  merit ;  the 
trascoro  is  churrigueresque,  but  not  of 
its  worst  style,  made  up  of  red,  black, 
and  white  marbles,  with  a  curious 
mosaic  on  the  altar,  which  a  lueue  na- 
iurm,  slightly  aided  by  man,  may  re- 
present l^e  Temptation  of  St  Anthony 
in  the  Desert  The  organs  are  not  in 
good  taste,  but  first-rate  as  instruments. 
The  marble  pavement  very  fine,  and 
traced  at  the  end  of  the  last  century. 
The  noble  cimborio  rises  some  220  ft, 
and  the  arch  (oreo  tcral\  190  ft,  open- 
ing to  the  coro,  has  a  bend  which  is 
much  admired  by  oonnoisseura.  The 
dome  is  painted  in  white  and  gold ;  tlie 
high  altar  stands  isolated,  and  at  the 


196 


GRANADA — CATHEDRAL. 


sides  SIS  the  kneeling  effigies  of  Fer- 
'dinand  and  Isabella.    The  interior  is 
425  ft  long  hj  249  ft.  wide  (Spanish 
measure).    The  High  Cliapel  is  very 
fine.      There    are  seren  piotores  by 
Alonso  Oano,  and  the  colossal  heads 
of  Adam  and  Eve,  also  by  him,  abore 
the  high  altar,  let  hito  circular  recesses ; 
there  are  fifteen  chapels  around   the 
church..    Beginning  by  those  to  the 
rifjtkt,  we  may  mention  : — Oapilla  de 
Safn  Miguil — Founded    by    Peralta, 
Archbishop   of  Qranada,    and  before 
Bishop  of  Tttcuman  and  Cnsco,  whose 
enormous  wealth  was  equalled  by  his 
generosity  and  love  of  art     He  lived 
near  Granada  in  his  magnificent  villa  of 
Visniir,  more  like  a  king  than  a  priest 
of  God,  and  is  buried  here.     It  was 
built  in  1804,  by  Romero  de  Aregon. 
The  statue  of  the  tutelar  is  of  marble 
of  Macael,  and  there   are    some  fine 
jaspers  from  Sierra  Nevada.     In  the 
groups   Satan  absorbs  all    the  room, 
which  made  the  prelate  observe,   'El 
diablo  se  lo  ha  llevado  todo.'    It  was 
designed  and  executed  by  one  Adam, 
who  in  this  oase  was  not  the  first  pum 
in  his  time.    To  the  right  a  fine  Alonso 
Cano,  '  La  Yirgen  de  U  Solodad. '  Next 
comes  the  door  which  leads  to  the  sag- 
rario.    Some  pictures,  and  one  before 
which  San  Juan  de  Dios  used  to  pray. 
OajriUa  d4  la  Trinidad, — Paintings  : 
subject,  God  the  Father  a  Dead  Christ, 
by  Oano^  and  a  Holy  Family  on  left  by 
Bocan^gra.     AlUr  or  Chapel  of  Juhb 
Namrmio. — ^The  retaldo  is  full  of  pic- 
tures by  Ribera  and  Cano ;  the  one  in 
the  ibiddle,  St  Paul,  is  the  copy  of  one 
that  was  stolen  in  1842,  which  theft  is 
here  kindly  attributed  to  Inglesea  over- 
enthusiastic  for  '  las  glorias  de  la  escuela 
espafiola.'    By  Ribm,   San  Antonio, 
St  Lorenio^  the  Magdalen ;  by  Cano^ 
St  Augustine,  La  Amargura,  a  Christ, 
andaViigin. 
Next  oomes  the  beautifU  arch  and 


door  that  lead  to  the  CapilU  Real    It 
is  of  good  Qothic  style,  and  most  richly 
ornamented  ;  observe  the  two  splendid 
royal  escutcheons,  a  series  of  saints  in 
a  row  round  the  arch,  etc     Chapel  of 
Santiago, — An  equestrian  image  of  St 
James,  by  one  Medrano.    The  different 
chapels  about  the  interior  between  the 
naves  are  not  remarkable ;  at  that  of 
Sta.  Ana,  observe  the  pictures  of  San 
Juan  de  Mats  and  San  Pedro  Kolosco, 
by  Bocanegra.     Chapel  de  la  Antigua, 
—Portraits,  said  to  bo  exact  likenesses, 
of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella,  by  Rincon  ; 
ascribed  also  to  Juan  de  Sevilla,  who, 
it  is  added,  copied  them  from  the  ori- 
ginals by  Rincon,  now  at  Madrid  ;  the 
image  on  the  altar  is  the  identical  one 
which  the  Catholic  kings  brought  to 
the  camp  during  the  siege,  and  placed 
in  the  Church  del  C&rmen,   near  the 
Ermita  de  San  Sebastian.     Pass  on  to 
Chapel  del  Cdrmen.—A  fine  head  of  St 
Paul,  by  Cano.     Over  the  door  leading 
to  the  Sala  Capitular,  observe  a  medal- 
lion and  a  beautifully  composed  and 
executed  group  of  '  Charity,'  by  Pietro 
Torrigiano,    Michael  Angelo*s    rival, 
and  favourite  of  Lorenzo  de  MedicL 
This  great  Florentine  sculptor  hastened 
to   Granada    when    he    heard    that 
Charles  Y.  hsd  appealed  to  the  first 
artists  of  the  world  to  embellish  the 
church  and  make  designs  for  the  royal 
sepulchres  of  his  father  and  mother  and 
the  Catholic  kings ;  he  came,  but  was 
not  chosen,  and  left  only  this  specimen 
of  his  talents.    Near  this  door  is  a  fine 
Crucifixion,  by  Bocanegra.     Under  the 
choir  lies  the  granadino  Alonso  Cano. 
The  Chapel  of  the  ssgrario,  a  small 
church  itself  and  the  parish  church  of 
the  cathedral,  was  begun  in  1705  and 
finished  in  1759,  on  the  site  of  the  for- 
mer mosque,  built  in  the  14th  century. 
This  was  a  square  building,  with  a  low 
roof^  and  divided  into  four  smaU  naves 
supported  by  jasper  pillars,  forming  by 


GRANADA — CATHEDRAL. 


197 


their  many  arches  a  profusion  of  small 
capolas  elaborately  carved.  It  was  on 
one  of  its  three  doors,  next  to  that 
leading  to  the  Royal  Chapel,  that  Her- 
nan  Peres  del  Polgar  nailed  a  tablet 
bearing  the  words  '  Ave  Maria,'  to  ao- 
oomidish  which  feat,  daring  the  siege, 
he  entered  the  town  at  dusk  and  left  it 
unharmed  amid  the  plaudits  of  the 
Arab  warriors,  who  appreciated  this 
exploit  There  are  some  well-carred 
efl&gies  and  precious  marbles.  In  the 
Sagrario  lies  the  first  Archbishop  of 
Granada,  F.  de  Falanera,  obt  1507. 
The  tomb  was  raised  by  his  friend, 
Conde  de  Tondella,  and  inscribed  *  Ami- 
0U8  Amioo.'  Here  is  a  chapel  where 
the  hero  is  buried,  and  called  hence 
daPulgar. 

ChapdMoyaliCkipiUadelmlleyes),'^' 
So  called,  because  it  is  the  burial-place 
of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella,  of  Philip^ 
and  Juana,  thoir  daughter.  It  is  the 
chief  object  of  interest  in  the  cathedral, 
although  it  is  independent  of  it,  and 
has  its  especial  diapter  and  chap- 
lains. It  was  built  by  order  of  Ferdi- 
nand and  Isabella,  by  Felipe  Yigami, 
alias  Philip  de  Boigoha,  in  the  special 
Cinquecento  style  adopted  by  this  ar- 
thitect  Obserre  the  groups  of  slender 
pillars  in  the  an^es  terminating  at 
the  capitals  in  palm  branches  that 
spread  oyer  the  root  A  magnificent 
rqa  divides  the  church,  and  is  the 
work  of  Bartolom^  of  Jaen,  1588.  Ob- 
serve the  escutcheons  with  the  yugos 
(yoke)  and  bundle  of  arrowa  The  in- 
scription, which  runs  round  the  cornice, 
is  to  this  effect : 

This  diapd  was  fbanded  hy  die  most  Catlio- 
Hc  Don  Fenumdo  and  DoKa  Iiabe],  King  and 
Queen  of  las  EspaBas,  of  Naples,  of  Stctly,  and 
Jentsalen,  who  oonqnered  this  kingdom,  and 
bfooght  it  back  to  oar  Fa^ ;  who  aa|uired  the 
Canary  Ues  and  Indies,  as  well  as  the  cities 
of  Oran,  TripoG,  and  Bogia ;  who  crashed 
f,  OTpeflftd  the  Moon  and    Tews  from 


these  realms,  and  refocmed  religion.  The  Queen 
died  Tuesday,  Nor.  s6, 1504.  The  king  died 
Jan.  93, 1516.  The  building  was  compleiad  in 
1517. 

The  high  altar  is  ascended  by  somesteps. 
The  retablo  is  the  work  of  Felipe  de 
Boigofia ;  the  bassi-relievi  are  most  in- 
teresting for  the  scenes  they  represent 
and  the  costumes  of  those  times.  Ob- 
serve the  Surrender  of  Granada — Isa- 
bella on  a  white  palfrey  between  Ferdi- 
nand and  Mendoza,  who  is  riding  on  a 
mule,  as  vras  the  fashion  for  prelates  in 
thoee  days.  Boabdil  presents  the  keys; 
behind  are  ladies,  knights,  halberdiers, 
and  in  the  distance  captives  are  seen 
coming  out  from  the  gates.  Another 
relievo  has  for  its  subject  the  Conversion 
of  Infidels. 

At  each  extremity  of  the  altar  are 
kneeling  effigies  of  the  Catholic  kings, 
most  interesting;  as  being  exact  repre- 
sentationsof  their  faces,  costumes,  forms: 
behind  the  king  is  the  banner  of  Cas- 
tile. In  the  centre  of  the  chapel  are 
two  alabastar  sepulchres,  on  which  are 
extended  on  the  right  one,  filing  the 
altar,  the  effigies  of  Ferdinand  and 
Isabella,  and  on  the  left  Philip  and 
Crazy  Jane,  side  by  side.  They  are 
among  the  most  magnificent  mauso- 
leums in  the  world,  and  were  wrought 
by  Italian  artists,  some  say  Yigami, 
and  others  Peralta,  from  Genoa.  They 
are  all  superb,  and  decorated  with  deli- 
cate ornaments  and  statuettes.  Ob- 
serve in  that  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella 
the  four  doctors  of  the  Church  at  the 
comers,  and  twelve  apostles  at  the 
sides ;  the  details,  ornaments,  children, 
foliage,  all  most  Italian-like ;  the  soft, 
cream-ooloured,  ivoiy-looking  alabaster 
adds  not  a  little  to  the  pleasing  effect 
of  the  whole.  Ferdinand  wean  the 
garter,  and  Isabella  the  cross  of  Santi- 
ago, Philip  the  Golden  Fleece.  Craiy 
Jane's  soft  and  gentle  expression  be- 
speaks contentment  to  be  at  last  resting 


198 


QBAKADA— LA.  GARTUJl. 


bjr  tbe  Mb  of  him  from  whom  die 
atwtr  would  ptrt  when  he  was  dead, 
ftod  whoM  jealoos  lore  became  inmnitj 
at  htft  « The  statue  of  IsabeUs  is  ad- 
mirable^'mjs  a  writer,  '  her  smile  is  as 
eoldy  aad  her  lode  is  as  placid,  as 
moonlight  sleeping  on  snow.' 

la 


la  bdb  douui,  e  par  che 

She  died  indeed  far  from  Granada, 
but  desired  to  be  boned  here  in  the 
bri^test  pearl  of  her  crown.  The  sen- 
timent is  truly  tonching;  i^id  the  effect 
aimed  at  is  fully  produced  ;  the  subject 
is  the  Christian's  death,  who,  stretched 
on  the  tomb,  has  yet  the  hope  of  an- 
other and  a  better  life.  '  She  ii  one  of 
the  most  ikoltless  characters  in  history, 
one  of  the  purest  sorereigns  who  ever 
graced  or  dignified  a  throne,  who,  '  in 
all  her  relations  of  queen  or  woman,' 
was,  in  the  words  of  Lord  Bacon,  '  an 
honour  to  her  sex  and  the  comerBtone 
of  the  greatness  of  Spain.* '  Descend 
into  the  rault,  in  which  their  ashes 
lie  in  rude  and  plain  coffins,  with  a 
limple  letter,  the  initial  one  of  each 
respeotiye  king  and  queen.  Philip's  Ib 
that  identical  one  which  Jane  used  to 
carry  about  with  her  everywhere,  and 
would  embrace  now  and  then  with  wild 
passion  and  sorrow.  Well  might  she 
say  now,  with  Dante's  Franceses,  of  her 
dead  lover, 

QuottI  ch«  oiai  da  hm  oon  fia  divito. 

During  the  present  queen's  visit  to 
Oranada,  she  had  mass  aaid  in  this 
chapel  for  tlie  souls  of  these  kings,  and 
on  the  sama  altar  that  was  used  by 
them,  and,  by  a  strange  coincidence, 
hers  appeared  Queen  Isabella  of  Spain, 
surrounded  by  the  descendants  of  those 
who  attended  on  the  first  Isabella,  when 
mass  was  said  before  that  same  altar  at 
the  taking  of  Oranada — at  an  interval 
of  400  years,  14921808;  with  tliis 
ditferenoe,  that  they  added  «  new  worid 


to  their  mighty  domimoM^  aad  die 
stood  the  daughter  of  a  Fcniinaiid  who 
lost  the  fdnner.  Obaerve  in  the  Sft- 
cristis  the  plain  swoni  used  by  Ferii- 
nand,  and  his  sceptre,  tbe  silver-gilt 
crown  of  Tsabflla,  her  missal,  a  cha- 
snble  embroidered  by  her,  a  painting 
(snljeet,  the  Adoration  of  the  Magi)  \^ 
Hemmding  of  Bruges,  etc  In  the 
sacristia,  a  San  Jos^  by  Cano^  and  a 
few  relics. 

La  Cartuja.— Fail  not  to  visit  this 
monssteiy  and  church.  It  is  placed 
outside  the  town,  on  a  spot  with  a  very 
Moorish  name,  like  all  here,  Hinada- 
mar.  It  was  once  a  very  wealthy  con- 
vent, founded  by  the  Carthusian  Order 
on  grounds  belonging  to  and  granted  to 
them  by  Oonzalo  de  Cordova,  '  el  gran 
capitan.'  The  French  plundered  it, 
and  have  left  only  what  they  could  not 
take  away.  Observe  in  the  refectory, 
on  the  wall  at  the  extremity,  a  painted 
cross,  by  Cotan,  so  good  an  imitation 
of  wood  that  it  is  said  the  very  birds 
make  the  miitake  and,  fly  in  to  perch 
upon  it  In  the  adjoining  chapel,  SS. 
Peter  and  Paul,  by  Cotan,  and  in  the 
cloLBters  a  series  of  pictures  by  the 
same,  representing  strange  and  repug- 
nant scenes  of  Carthusian  martyrdoms 
and  persecutions  by  tlio  English  Pro- 
testants. Sa{frario,  —  A  triumph  of 
churrigueresque  Fresco  by  Palomino ; 
doors  of  the  coro  and  sacristia  beauti- 
fully inlaid  with  silver,  ebony,  tortoise- 
sheU,  mother-of-pearl,  etc  See  in  the 
respaldos  del  coro  a  fine  San  Bruno,  by 
Reseyra,  and  Flight  into  Egypt,  by 
Cotan.  Observe  in  the  santuario  the 
rich  and  various  marbles,  jaspers,  onyx. 
In  the  sacristy,  marble  slabs  simulat- 
ing paintings  and  subjects,  in  which, 
as  in  clouds,  (very  one  may  see  most 
clearly  what  his  fancy  suggests ;  two 
Morales. 

OhurohM.  — Until  1848,  Granada 
contained   upwards    of    twenty-three 


GRANADA. 


199 


parisho^  most  of  which  have  been  sap- 
prened;  besides  the  Cathedral  and 
Oaitiga  there  are  few  of  any  artistio 
Talne^  either  as  a  building  or  from  its 
contents.  We  shall,  howerer,  mention 
La$  AuguaUtu,  In  Oarrera  del  Genii ; 
elegant  towers,  1664.  The  statues  of 
the  Twelre  Apostles  are  by  Pedro 
Dnqne  Com^o.  dose  to  it,  in  a 
smidl  square,  is  a  statue  erected  to 
the  actor  Maiques,  by  Romea  and  Ma- 
tilde  Dies,  the  best  liying  actors  of  this 
day. 

Sam  Cristobal^ln  the  Albaydn  bar- 
rio. The  view  from  its  belf^  is  ez- 
tensive,  and  worth  the  trouble  of  the 
ascent  Tower  qf  San  Joti, — ^Very 
early ;  built  dose  to  the  former  ram- 
parts of  the  Alcazaba.  San  Juan  de  los 
Reyes, — ^The  former  mosque,  El  Teybir, 
The  first  mosque  which  was  oonrerted 
into  a  Chiistian  church  after  the  cap- 
ture of  the  town  by  the  Catholic  kings. 

San  Nicolas, — A  former  mosque.  The 
Tiew  from  it  is  the  finest  in  Granada.  * 

Salvador. — On  the  site  of  the  lar- 
gest mosque  in  this  quarter  of  the  town ; 
in  a  patio  near  the  house  inhabited  by 
ihe  sexton  are  some  Moorish  remaina 
Consecrated  by  Cardinal  Ximenes, 
KoTember  16,  1499.  On  that  same 
day  bijgan  the  forced  conversion  of 
Moors  and  Moriscos.  Built  by  Alonso 
deY^ga. 

San  Oeronimo, — ^Begun  by  Siloe, 
1492,  for  Fernando  de  Talavera,  con- 
fessw  to  the  Catholic  kings.  The 
'gran  capitan,'  Gonzalo  de  Cordoba, 
was  buried  here,  700  standards  taken 
fitim  the  enemy  by  his  srmies  hung 
round  the  hero's  tomb,  which  wasbroken 
by  the  mob  at  the  suppression  of  con- 
vents, and  his  ashes  cast  to  the  winds. 

OoUffiaia  del  Saero  Monte, — On  a 
hill,  a  steep  ascent;  the  early  Puerta 
Quemada  arch  is  seen  on  the  way,  said 
to  be  a  Boman  work.  The  church  is 
indifferent ;  the  transept  leads  to  the 


Santas  Cuevas,  a  subterranean  series 
of  chapels  filled  with  slabs,  etc  etc, 
and  erected  in  commemoration  of  sup- 
posed miracles,  treasure-trove,  finding 
of  early  records  and  medals,  etc 

SUk  2>omMi^.— Founded  by  the  Ca- 
tholic kings,  at  the  request  of  the  cele- 
brated Fray  Tomas  de  Torquemada 
(nearitistheCi<arto  JZmQ.    Seenipnk 

San  Juan  de  Dioe, — ^Founded  by  this 
Portuguese  saint,  who  was  bom  1496  ; 
came  to  Granada,  and  manifested  his 
fanstioism  in  such  a  manner  that  he 
was  considered  mad,  and  shut  up  in 
the  Hospital  Real  in  a  cage^  which  is 
shown  to  visitors. 

Publlo  Buildings.— These  are  of  no 
importance,  being  mostly  built  at  a 
period  when  the  proeperity  of  Granada 
was  rapidly  declining,  and  those  that 
date  frt>m  the  Moorish  epoch,  and  of 
that  of  the  Catholic  kings  have  been 
80  considerably  altered  and  iigured 
that  they  no  longer  retain  any  charac- 
ter. We  shall,  however,  mention  them, 
and  let  our  readers  judge  for  them- 
selves. OaaaaConeisloriales, — The  build- 
ing was  erected  by  the  Moors,  and  was 
used,  it  is  believed,  as  an  university, 
wher^  the  celebrated  Koranic  Academy, 
founded  by  Abdallah  Solyman  Al-Cas- 
sim,  was  established.  It  was  modern- 
ised in  1720.  Hospital  de  los  Loeos^  or 
Lunatie  Asylum, — Comer  of  Plasa  del 
Triunfo.  One  of  tlie  earliest  known. 
Founded  by  the  Catholic  kings,  Qotho- 
plateresque  style.  Chaneilleria,  or 
Court  of  Chancery,  in  Plaza  Nueva, 
built  1684,  by  Martin  Dias  Navarre 

CTnMwrnfy.— Was  founded  in  1631, 
by  Charles  Y.,  and  Pope  Clement  YIL 
granted  to  it  privileges  similar  to  those 
of  the  universities  of  Bologna,  Paris, 
Salamanca,  and  Alcali  de  Henares; 
the  botanical  garden  annexed  to  it  is 
all  weeds  and  neglect 

ifiiS09.— Few  good  paintings,  por* 
traits  of  the  Catholic  kings,  by  Bin* 


200 


GRANADA. 


oon,  MTeral  by  Boctnegra  and  Cotan, 
a  portable  altar  from  San  Geronimo, 
with  six  fine  enamels  on  copper,  and 
apedmena  of  Mora  and  Riaaefio. 

X»(mrie9.— Tbat  of  the  Unireraity. 
A  polyglot  Bible  and  several  worka  on 
theology,  few  Arab  MSS.,  and  little  of 
interest  relative  to  Granada.  Seftor 
Gongora,  professor  at  the  Uniyeraity, 
possesses  some  cnrions  books  and 
coins. 

The  private  houses  to  look  at  are 
▼ery  few.  Com  Cfhajris,  in  Calle  de  la 
Victoria,  once  a  Moorish  villa,  has  been 
considerably  iigured  and  altered.  See 
also  in  Calle  del  Bafiuelo  80,  a  former 
Moorish  bath-honse,  now  a  lavadero. 
'  Alas  t'  exclaims  the  ilustrado  native, 
*  that  euUoe  foreigners  should  see  such 
degradation ;  for  il  fanU  lover  ton  linge 
MtU  en/amUe  I*  Otua  d$  Tiraa^  de  Caa- 
trU,  de  Luque,  etc.  etc 

Piiurta  del  Car5oii.~Close  to  Man- 
sion Honse,  once  the  barracks  and 
stables  of  the  Moorish  cavaliy ;  the 
doorway  and  arch  fine,  but  much  de- 
teriorated, and  every  day  more  so. 
It  was  bnilt  as  eariy  as  1070,  by  Badis. 

Cfatee,  StreeU^  Sguares,  etc— We 
have  described  the  most  interesting 
sightflL  Let  not  the  over-zealous 
cicerone  entice  you  to  visit  minor  edi- 
fices, devoid  of  all  merit  either  past  or 
present  Of  the  three  eereae,  or  lines  of 
drcumvallation,  with  which  the  Moors 
fortified  their  beloved  city,  and  which 
were  flanked  by  1080  massive  towers, 
few  and  uninteresting  vestiges  remain. 
Of  its  former  twenty  gates,  most  have 
diMppeared,  and  awkward  repairs  and 
alterations  have  disfigured  the  rest 
The  principal  ii  Pueria  de  MofnaymOt 
in  the  Albaoin ;  its  meaning  in  Arab 
ii  *  Gate  of  the  Standard,'  and  was  so 
called  because  on  the  outbreak  of  any 
disturbance  the  khalifa  royal  standard 
was  hoisted  upon  it,  as  a  signal  Puerta 
de  Shrira,  so  called  because  it  is  placed 


towards  Ghebal-Elveyri,  or  Sierra  El- 
vira; it  has  been  recently  repaired. 
Piterta  del  Peeeado,  with  three  Moorish 
arches.  We  have  already  noticed  that 
of  Las  Granadas  (Alhambra^.  The 
principal  equaree  are :  the  renowned 
Bibarrambla,  where  onoe  stood  BibU- 
rimil,  the  Gate  of  the  River;  it  is 
interesting  only  as  having  been  the 
site  of  so  many  jousts  and  tournaments^ 
gallant  deeds,  Moorish  fanUaeiet,  not 
unlike  those  present  Algerine  hippie 
performances,  etc,  and  the  scene  of 
great  events  and  continual  partisan 
hostile  meetings. 

The  Moorish  king  rides  op  and  down 
Through  Gruiada's  royal  town ; 
From  Elrira's  gates  to  those 
Of  Bibairambla,  on  he  goes. 

Woe  is  me,  Alhama  l—L^rd  Bjnvm. 

Which  latter  verse  ought  to  have  been 
translated, 'Woe  to  my  Alhamal'  (Ay 
de  mi  Alhama  I)  This  legend-haunted 
spot  has  been  converted  into  a  common- 
place Plaza  de  la  Constitucion — eic 
traneit  gloria.  .  .  Mauri.  Close  to  it  is 
the  ancient  Peeoaderia,  the  modernised 
palace  of  the  archbishop^  whose  homi- 
lies Gil  Bias  finally  ventured  to  criti- 
cise, and  adjoining  it  the  cathedraL 
The  town-h^  is  unworthy  of  notice. 
Plaaa  del  ISriunfOf  a  large  open  place, 
with  a  pretty  paseo^  a  much- venerated 
effigy  of  the  Virgin,  by  Juan  de  Mena, 
and  a  statue  of  Maria  Pineda,  a  politi- 
cal martyr  who  was  strangled  here  in 
May  1881.  A  constitutional  flag  hav- 
ing been  found  in  her  house,  she,  in 
consequence,  was  convicted  of  high 
treason,  and  mercilessly  condemned  to 
death.  The  unfortunate  lady  has  been 
executed  a  second  time  in  efilgy  by  the 
sculptor.  Adjoining  thii  pUsa  are  the 
bull-ring.  Church  of  San  Ildefonso, 
Gate  of  Elvira,  and  the  Hospital  Real. 
The  PtoM  Nwba  contains  little  to 
interest  us.  It  is  bnilt  over  the  Darra 
Here  stands  the  modem  AwUeiteia, 


GRANADA — ^EXOUBSIONa 


201 


and  formerly  the  CluuioilleriA^  with  a 
fine  facade. 

The  principal  streets  are,  El  Zacatin, 
where  the  principal  Moorish  market- 
place once  stood,  as  the  name  soiB- 
dently  explains  (am^  Arabic^  a  mar- 
ket, like  the  Zoko  at  Tetoan,  Zoco- 
dover  at  Toledo,  etc)  It  is  now 
a  narrow  sombre  street,  lined  with 
shops.  About  half-way  to  the  left  is 
the  Alcaiceria,  the  Moors'  silk  bazaar. 
A  great  portion  of  it  was  destroyed  by 
fire  in  1842 ;  bnt  restiges  still  exist  of 
Moorish  stucco  woxk  and  rich  orna- 
mentation. In  the  Calle  de  las  Tables 
are  situated  the  houses  of  grandees. 
We  may  also  mention,  Calle  de  San 
Francisco,  Accra  del  Genii,  etc. 

Promenades,  Theatres,  eta — The 
Alameda  is  a  charming  broad  ayenue 
formed  by  rows  of  stately  elms  that, 
uniting  their  branches  abore,  form  a 
roof  of  folisge  so  dense  that  the  shade 
beneath  is  most  refreshing,  even  during 
the  hottest  days  in  the  year.  There  are 
gardens  on  each  side,  covered  with  roses. 
There  are  fountains  at  the  extremities 
which  contribute  to  the  coolness  of  the 
air  in  summer,  but  are  otherwise  unin- 
teresting. This  promenade,  and  the 
bridge  built  at  the  upper  end  of  it,  are 
the  worics  derised  by  Marshal  Sebasti- 
ani,  who  considered  them  probably  as 
fully  compensating  for  the  destruction 
of  tiie  Alhambra,  etc  The  Carrere  de 
Genii  (el  Salon),  and  the  above  are  the 
frshionable  walks.  The  first  is  preferred 
in  summer,  and  the  second  in  winter. 
The  hour  of  the  JNU0O  in  the  former  sea- 
son is  in  the  evening,  and  the  band 
plays  on  Sundays  and  Thursdays  at  8 
P.M.  on  the  Carrera,  the  resort  of/o- 
Mok.  In  winter  the  promenade  houn 
are  from  4  ta  6  p.m.  Kear  the  Alameda 
del  Darro  is  the  medicinal  fountain  de 
los  Avellanos^  the  site  of  the  Moorish 
Ayn-ad-dama,  or  the  Fountain  of  Tters. 

The  present  theatre  (Teatro  Beal)  is 


small  but  elegant  Spanish  comedies 
(modem),  mostly  French  translations^ 
dramss,  and  dancing.  The  new  theatre 
recently  opened  is  very  elegantly  fitted 
up. 

The  FUua  d$  Torm  is  small,  and  the 
'corridas*  here  are  considered  very 
second-rate. 

FeaHval$,-^Tht  principal  local  festi- 
vals of  the  year  are,  the  anniverssry  of 
the  tsking  of  Granada  ^y  the  Catholic 
kings,  January  2.  Repair  that  day, 
about  8  to  4  p.m.,  to  the  Alhambra, 
where  the  bands  play,  and  the  pretty 
Granadinas,  'que  son  muy  finas,'  as 
rhyme  and  truth  will  have  it,  parade  in 
their  holiday  dresses.  On  that  day  the 
peasant  girls  from  the  vega  and  sur- 
rouiding  hamlets  repair  to  the  Alham- 
bra, ascuid  the  Torre  de  la  vega,  and 
each  in  turn  strikes  the  bell  that  is 
placed  there,  which  is  said  to  ensure  a 
husband,  or  at  least  nn  novio;  but  their 
black  eyes  are  surer  still  to  attract  a 
gaM,  as  the  slang  of  the  mi\jority  de- 
signates a  lindoro.  On  that  day  the 
fountains  run  in  the  Alhambrs — a  poor 
specimen  now-a-days  of  what  the 
grtmdsi  mwi  of  that  Moorish  Versailles 
must  once  have  been.  On  Corpus 
Christi  the  PUsa  de  BibarrambU  U 
crowded  with  picturesque  groups.  The 
ftria  takes  phux  on  the  6th,  6th,  and 
7th  June 

Omviifaneet  to  Zof^^irvfi.— Service  in 
summer   only   by  Alchendin,   Padul, 

Dureal,  Talank,  and  Besnar;  asmalldiL 
(offioei^  Fonda  de  la  Alameda) ;  farei^ 
beri.,  40r. ;  int,  80r. ;  cup^  20r. 

Xsouraions. — Siorra  Novada.^-ThiM 
^^  excursion  must  be  undertaken 

fffSr  in  summer  only,  snd  with  a 
AiQL  good  guide  It  wiU  interest 
the  geolc^st  Md  botanist  as  well  as 
the  general  tourist  The  Sierra  Ne- 
vada, the  o<d  Orotpeda  and  Moorish 
iJo  LttiMt  is  a  range  of  hills  whieh  rise 
east  of  Granada,  aod  tztnid  tnm  north 


202 


ORANADA— EXGURSION& 


to  Mft,  presenting  a  series  of  pinnacles 
almost  always  di^  with  snow.  On  its 
southern  slopes  is  the  district  of  the 
secluded  Alpajarras;  on  its  northern 
slopes  are  some  very  fertile  yalleys. 
From  t>»^»  main  trank  branch  the 
minor  ranges  of  Qador^  Lujar,  Owjar^ 
FUabres,  etc,  which  are  clothed  with 
forests,  and  are  pregnant  with  marble^ 
coal,  and  lead  mines,  and  contain  a 
remarkable  medicinal  herhaL 

Frimei^  Hngkta  ^  th4  Siirru  Ntvmda, 

English  Feet.  Authorities. 

MolaHacea      .       .  ii,78>  Oeinente. 

Picacho  de  hi  Vaett .  ii«597          I^ 

Do.               .  11,43a  Boissier. 

CetTO  de  hi  Alouaba  ix»356  Clemente. 

Cerrodel  Cmballo      .  ii,aoo  Ektimatioct 

C^erro  de  kis  Machos  .  11,305  Qemente. 

C:ol  de  U  Vdeta        .  io»8a6  Boisner. 

Gbder  of  El  CorM  .  9*585       I^- 

Sierra  Lujar      .       .  6,a6a  jyOttenshetm. 

VilbgeofTrereles    .  5,330  Boiastcr. 

Qty  of  Granada        .  a,343        I>o* 

Village  of  La^jaroa  .  0,284       Do. 

The  Picacho  de  Yeleta,  as  the  easiest 
of  acoesi  fh>m  Granada,  is  the  one 
more  generally  selected ;  the  greater 
part  may  be  ridden.  Tourists  gener- 
ally start  in  the  night,  returning  next 
day.  A  tour  round  the  Alpiyarras  will 
repay  the  trouble.  Alhendln,  Padul, 
Laigaron,  celebrated  for  its  mineral 
springs  and  most  picturesque  situation, 
the  Talley  of  the  Orgiba,  the  wild 
romantio  Angosturas  del  Rio  and  Por- 
tugos  are  risited,  and  the  grand  ascent 
toMulaHacenisthenmade.  The  start- 
ing-plaoe  is  Trerelez.  The  view  from 
the  Mula  Hacen  is  much  grander  than 
that  from  the  Yeleta.  By  starting  Tery 
eariy,  tourists  may  ayoid  a  night  in  the 
mountains^  and  return  next  day  to 
Orgiba  through  the  loyely  wild  Bar- 
rwMO  <U  Poqrueira,  continuing  by  Lan- 
JaronbaoktoOranada.  A  diligence  ser- 
Tice  from  Lai^jaron  to  Granada  during 
t)ie  summer  season  only. 
Pedestrian  explorations  of  the  Alpu- 


jams  having  become  of  late  somewhat 
more  fi-equent  than  hitherto,  the  follow- 
ing particulars,  gathered  from  the 
'  Tours  of  Two  Members  of  the  Alpine 
Club'  (*Comhill  Mag.' for  Aug.  and 
Sept  1867,  and  Mr.  J.  Ormby's  *  The 
Sierra  Neyada,*  *  Alpine  Journal,'  yol. 
ill  1867),  may  interest  some  of  our 
readers. 

Make  La^jaron  head-quarters.  Reach 
that  place  by  diL  from  Granada,  or  get 
down  at   Ultimo   Suspire  del   Moro^ 
whence  through  Durcal,  past  the  Gorge 
of  Talara  and  Bridge  of  Tablate,  and 
turning  to  left,  take  the  rough  by-road 
that  zig-zags  up  hill  to  Lanjaron.  There 
is  a  decent  posada  in  this  charxningly 
situated  African  town  'el  paraiso  de  Us 
Alpiy  arras, '  which  is  famous  for  its  fruit 
in  general,  and  its  oranges  more  espe- 
cially.   A  young  man  of  the  town,  Juan 
Est^vez,  is  recommended  as  a  guide. 
Walk  to  Tillage  of  Capilleria  by  Orgiba, 
2  hrs.  to  Barranco  de  Poqueira  ;  endea- 
vour by  camping  to  avoid  the  abomin* 
able  posada  at  Capilleria;  sleep.    At 
daybreak  begin  the  ascent,  having  pre- 
viously  secured  the  assistance  of  a  local 
guide  acquainted  with  the  Mula  Hacen, 
which  is  neither  dangerous  nor  even 
difficult     '  It  is  simply  a  long,  heart- 
breaking grind.'    After  a  few  'long, 
steep  slopes  of  mica  sclust,  crovmed  by 
a  fringe  of  jagged  rocks,'  you  gain  the 
rocky  pinnacle  with  a*  structure  on  the 
summit,  built  by  Government  engineers. 
The  'Corrid,'  literally  form-yard,  is  a 
sort  of  enclosure  with  only  one  narrow 
outlet,  shut  in  by  a  precipitous  wall 
some  8  or  10  miles  in  extent,  the  depth 
somelSOOft  The  glacier(0585  ft  above 
the  sea,  200  to  800  ft  high,  and  600 
paces  broad,   Boissier),  which  is  the 
source  of  the  river  Jenil,  the  Barranio 
del  Infiemo,  etc,  have  not  been  much 
explored.    Follow  the  path  over  the 
Col  de  la  Veleta,  W.  of  the  jneadio,  and 
descend  to  eithei  lanjaron  orOapilleria. 


GRANADA. 


203 


From  the  Trevelez  valley  (the  hams  here 
are  rivals  to  those  of  Capilleria  ;  tliey 
are  the  best  samples  of  the  snow-cored 
Alptgarra  hams)  you  may  reach  Granada 
by  the  way  of  Ujgar,  and  the  mountain 
track  across  to  Guadix. 

Soto  de  Boma  (from  Rimi,  the  Chris- 
tian), situated  on  the  Jenil,  the  estate 
of  the  Duke  of  Wellington,  of  some  4000 
acres,  worth  about  £2000  a-year,  and 
which  was  given  to  him  by  the  Cortes ; 
the  mansion  and  grounds  are  most  in- 
different 

Another  excursion  may  be  made  across 
the  beautiful  Huerto,  2  hours*  ride  to 
Santa  F^  whence  3  hours'  ride  will  take 
the  tourist  to  Padul  and  the  hill  called 
'  El  Ultimo  Suspiro  del  Moro '  (the  kst 
sigh  of  the  Moor).    See  p.  168. 

Diredory, — DodoTv. —^Molina,  Sala- 
zar,  and  Creus.  Apothecary. — Torres. 
Olover, — Sanz,  Calle  del  Principe.  Hcdr- 
dresser. — Gonadez,  Carrera  del  GeniL 
A  good  capote  de  monte,  a  sort  of  pun- 
cho  used  for  riding,  may  be  purchased 
here  in  the  ZacatiA  for  $10. 

Bathe  at  Fonda  de  la  Victoria,  and 
Ba&os  de  la  Aurora,  CaUe  de  las  HU- 
eras. 

CbtNf  amd  ArUiquUies^  Roman  and 
Arabic,  may  be  purchased  from  the  Di- 
rector del  Refinode  la  Polvora,  who  has 
a  fine  collection  himself,  but  sells  also 
specimens  from  (r.  to  a  peseta.  N.B, 
— ^Yisit  Seizor  Contrera*s  interesting 
studio,  Calle  de  los  Gomeles,  Ko.  18, 
where  may  be  purchased  reduced  models 
of  portions  of  the  Alhambra,  very  well 
executed,  and  sent  to  England,  if  ne- 


Casino, — Introduction  by  a  member. 

Books  of  Beferenee. — 1.  'Descripcion 
del  Reinode  Granada,  bigolas  Naseritas,' 
by  Simonet;  Madrid,  Imprenta  Na- 
donal,  1860,  1  voL     Interesting. 

2.  'InacripdonesArabesde Granada,' 
by  D.  Emilio  Lafuente  Alo4ntara; 
Madrid,  1869;  very  interesting.   .This 


young  author  is,  after  Sr.  Gayangos* 
and  Estebanez  Calderon,  the  most  sble 
Arabic  scholar.  The  Kazerite  dynasty 
is  treated  here  at  some  length,  as  also 
by  Simonet  in  his  work  (see  supra^  Na 
1),  and  by  Sr.  Gayangos  in  'Memorial 
HiBt<Srico  EspaftoV  voL  x. 

8.  '  El  Libro  del  Yiagero  en  Granada,' 
by  M.  Lafuente  Aldmtara ;  Granada, 
Sanz,  1843,  8vo.  A  new  edition  about 
to  be  printed  ;  good. 

4.  '  Manual  del  Artists,  etc,  en  Gra- 
nada,' by  Jimenez  Serrano ;  Granada, 
Puchol,  1846,  12mo;  reliable. 

6.  '  Descripcion  Histor.  de  los  Alca- 
zares  de  Granada,'  by  Saravia,  foL  MS., 
lib.  of  Marq.  de  la  Romana,  Madrid. 

6.  '  Descripcion  del  Alcazar  y  Fort 
de  la  Alhambra,'  etc.,  by  Riezu.  A 
MS.  read  in  Acad.  Hist  on  July  8, 
1769  (note  by  Sr.  Mufioz,  ui  infra). 

For  Sierra  Nevada  see  '  Geology.' 

a 

StoHsHes  of  Province,  Agriculture, 
etc — Granada  is  one  of  the  eight  pro- 
vinces into  which  Andalusia  is  now 
divided,  and  the  most  eastern.  It  is 
also  one  of  the  provinces  which,  with 
Almeria,  Malaga,  and  Jaen,  are  com- 
prised within  the  jurisdiction  of  a  mili- 
tary district,  or  capitania-general,  that 
extends  over  1088  square  leagues^  and 
has  Granada  for  residence  and  centre. 
The  population  of  the  province  amounts 
to  441,404.  It  was  one  of  the  four 
Moorish  kingdoms,  or  cualro  reimoe, 
the  other  three  being  Seville,  Cordova, 
and  Jaen,  which  contained  about  8288 
square  leagues. 

The  ClinuUe  is  admirably  suited  to 
agriculture,  and  under  the  combined 
influence  of  an  African  sun  and  mois- 
ture, kept  up  constantiy  by  the  alti- 
tude and  snow  of  the  mountains,  which 
latter,  melting  the  more  as  the  heat 
becomes  greater,  flows  abundantiy  into 
the  plains,  or  vegas,  and  fertilises  their 
light  ferruginous  ssil,  the  sucoetsioii 


204 


GRANADA — ^PROVINOE. 


'of  crops  neyer  ceases,  and  the  country 
teems  with  every  rariety  of  production — 
vis.,  sugar-cane,  hemp,  wine,  oil,  silk, 
com,  and  firuits  of  all  sorts.  Such  is, 
indeed,  the  fertility  of  this  privileged 
soil  that,  with  but  little  trouble,  and 
with  no  other  means  than  the  primitiTe 
Moorish  implements,  the  com  will 
yield  in  some  regas  70  to  90  per  cent, 
and  the  Lngeralike  aJfaXfa  {^sMdioaqo 
sofisa),  grown  in  'tierrasde  regadio,' 
or  irrigated  hmds^  will  bear  twdve  or 
sixteen  cuttings  in  the  year. 

Olimato.— Granada  istheomipZtfm^ 
as  the  Fronch  say,  of  Malaga ;  we 
mean,  of  course,  as  a  medical  sta- 
tion ;  and  when  the  passive,  indifferent 
Spaniard  shall  have  tasted  the  cup  of 
gold,  and  be  roused  to  enterprise  by 
tiie  j^ospect  of  lucre,  English  comforte 
will  doubtless  be  increased,  and  con- 
vert these  places  into  the  most  fre- 
quented medical  stations  in  Europe. 
Mslsga  for  the  winter,  and  Granada  for 
the  spring  and  summer,  are  likely  to 
be  finally  adopted  as  residences  suited 
to  invalids^  to  whom  the  gradual  transi- 
tion between  the  two  would  be  mon 
advantageous  than  to  return  to  England 
in  the  summer  after  a  winter  at  Malaga. 
Granada,  besides  its  interesting  sights^ 
possesses  many  other  inducements  for 
a  protracted  residence :—  Pleasant  walks 
along  the  Genii  and  Darro,  excursions 
in  the  environs^  sscents  on  the  moun- 
tains, shady  promenades  in  the  gardens 
of  the  Alhambra  and  Alameda,  some 
good  shooting  in  the  surrounding  sotos, 
a  public  libimry,  uninvestigated  to  this 
day,  and  whose  officials,  Sres.-  Con- 
treras  and  others,  aro  dvil  and  obliging. 
There  is  also  hero  a  constant  contrast, 
not  devoid  of  charms  and  strangeness, 
between  the  Alpine  character  of  the 
glaciers  of  Sierra  Nevada,  the  hills 
snow-capped  in  the  vicini^,  the  wild 
mountain  torrents  of  the  Genii  and 
DaiTQ^  and  the  Airican  sun,  the  tropi- 


csl  vegetation,  the  eastern  sspoct  of 
the  houses,  dress,  and  manners.  In 
summer,  owing  to  its  northern  aspect 
and  proximity  to  the  glaciers,  the  heat 
is  seldom  intolerable,  and  during  the 
winter  of  1862  it  was  our  lot  to  experi- 
enoe  its  rigorta;  and  we  can  testify  that 
had  the  house  we  lived  in  been  better 
constructed,  no  fires  would  have  been 
needed,  and  as  it  was,  they  were  only 
lighted  six  or  eight  times.  The  tem- 
perature changes  suddenly  in  winter. 
A  raw,  fresh  breese  sweeps  over  the 
town  in  the  morning,  subsides  in  the 
middle  of  the  day,  and  the  N.E.  com- 
mences to  blow  about  dusk,  when  it  is 
sometimes  keenly  felt.  The  oscillatory 
movements  of  the  barometric  column 
take  place  then  on  a  scale  of  about  28 
milL  The  frequent  cases  of  nervous, 
and  a  variety  of  neuralgic  affections 
which  occur  at  Granada,  are  the  natural 
effects  of  the  prevalence  of  the  N.  and 
E.  winds,  whose  stimulant  action 
irritates  the  nervous  system. — (Dr. 
Cazenave.)  Angints  and  affections  of 
the  stomach,  and  intermittent  fevers, 
which  are  observed  here^  are  principally 
owing  to  the  variability  of  the  climate, . 
and  calculus  is  fi^uent ;  but  notwith- 
standing this,  Granada  is  very  healthy, 
and  no  endemic  illness  is  peculiar  to  its 
climate.  The  finest  and  most  pleasant 
months  are  April,  May,  and  the  begin- 
ning of  June. 

Death  Eate.—l.Tl  in  the  capital,  and 
18  aged  upwards  of  90. 

Among  207  exemptions  from  militsiy 
service  in  1861,  89  were  from  defects 
connected  with  the  sight,  40  affections 
of  the  stomach,  85  affections  of  the 
respiretory  organs,  47  affections  of  the 
limbs. 

There  were  thousands  of  lepen  found 
in  the  city  when  the  Catholic  kings 
visited  it  after  its  surrender  in  1492 ; 
and  they  founded,  in  consequence,  the 
magnificent  hospital  de  Sui  lAaro 


GRANADA — PROVINCE. 


205 


Howeyer,  this  cruel  malady  was  at  no 
time  exdnsiyely  characteristic  of  this 
healthy  and  laTonred  region,  but  ex- 
tended itself  all  oyer  the  sonth  of  Spain 
from  a  rery  early  period.  Already,  in 
the  18th  century  (1284),  King  St 
Ferdinand  had  founded  the  hospital 
de  San  Ldsaro  at  Seville.  Lepers  are 
fast  disappearing  in  Spain,  there  having 
been  only  176,  according  to  the  latest 
accounts  (1860).  The  principal  hospi- 
tals are  at  Granada,  Serille,  Oomfta, 
and  Bailselona.  At  the  first,  there  were 
only  56  oases  in  1860,  and  74  in  the 
preceding  year. 

METEOROLOGICAL  OBSERVATIONS 
amdtt  at  the  Univenity  of  Granada.— t86s. 

CtnHgrade  Tktrm§mtier, 


Teraperatnre 
ofAir. 

1 

^ 

Moatln. 

>l 

s 

Aver 

M«d- 

Mtol- 

1 

1 

i860 

Doctmber 

9.6 

18.3 

I.I 

16 

>73-3 

1861 

JaDoary . 
FebniarT 

s-y 

14.9 
1I5 

a6 

S 

5a.8 

«.s 

i.o 

9 

59-9 
53.8 

March    . 

I3.S 

«5-» 

«-3 

1 

9 

iff?-    • 

'.tJ 

«7.o 
3a.o 

1:^ 

66.3 
5a6 

,  una  *    . 
July  •    * 

sa.1 

34-1 

9-4 

I 

3-> 

•5.9 
39.1 

^\ 

ia.0 
17.8 

Scptraiber 

•a.7 

^X 

10.5 

I 

3-* 

October  . 

18.1 

7.3 

7 

%\ 

ia.7 

S1.5 

4-9 

9 
70 

Totals     .       . 

5SS.8 

Afarafe  amnial  atmospheric  pffeMore  70|.o 
„          „      temperature  .        .      16.8 

Maximum  tempe rature,  August  8  .      38' S 
Mfaiioram       „       „      January  si       ao 

This  province  is  composed  of  plains 
and  mountainous  ranges,  the  principal 
.of  which  are  Sierra  Nevada  to  the  S., 
the  slopes  of  which  are  almost  washed 
by  the  Mediterranean,  and  the  highest 
peak,  Mula  Haoen,  rises  11,723  ft ;  the 
Sierra  de  T^ada,  to  a  and  W.,  and  the 
Sierra  Morena  iarther  to  the  N.,  thus 
forming   naturally    most    formidable 


ramparts  on  every  side  except  to  the  K 
The  principal  rivers  are  the  Darro  and 
C^enil;  the  first  rises  4  leagues  from 
Granada,  dose  to  Huetor,  and  the 
latter  tiUces  its  source  at  Giicjar,  in 
Sierra  Nevada,  and  joins  the  Darro  in 
the  vcga,  which  both  irrigate,  ana 
taking  in  several  minor  streams,  such 
as  DUar,  Monachil,  Alfacar,  etc.,  flows 
through  the  Oampos  de  Loja,  and  enters 
the  province  of  Cordova  through  His- 
nigar.  Owing  to  the  difference  in  the 
temperature  in  the  morning  and  the 
evening  on  Sierra  Nevada,  and  its 
influence  on  the  melting  of  its  snow, 
the  Genii  has  a  sort  of  ebb  and  flow, 
rising  in  the  evenings,  whilst  it  de- 
creases during  the  night'  The  Darro 
is  said  to  contain  particles  of  gold,  and 
some  poor  people  earn  lOr.  to  20r. 
a-day  in  these  diggings.  In  1626,  a 
crown  made  from  the  nuggets  found 
here  was  given  to  Isabel,  wife  of  Charles 
y.,  and  in  1862  the  municipality  pre- 
sented the  queen  with  a  large  one, 
supposed  likewise  to  have  bMU  the 
produce  of  this  river.  There  are  some 
mineral  springs,  uid  those  especially 
of  Alhama  (saline  hot  springs)  are  con- 
sidered most  efficacious,  and  were  much 
resorted  to  by  the  Arabs ;  the  ferrugi- 
nous carbonated  spring  of  Laxjaron  is 
also  frequented  for  the  diseases  attend- 
ant on  lymphatic  temperaments  ;  those 
of  Alomartes  and  Baoa  ars  hydro-sul- 
phurous (for  diseases  of  the  skin).  The 
seasons  for  Alhama  are  April  to  June, 
and  September  to  October  (see  General 
Information :  UvMorol  Baih$) ;  for  Lan- 
jaron.  May  to  September  (see  ditto  for 
details  of  routes  accommodation,  etc) 

The  province  abounds  with  mines 
(many  of  which  were  advantageously 
worked  by  the  Moors),  and  the  moun- 
tains abound  in  marble  and  metals. 
Antimony  is  found  at  Motril  and  Al- 
deira.  Zinc,  copper,  and  lead  are  also 
frequent;    and   the   silver    extracted 


206 


GRANADA — ^PROVINCE. 


in  1860  from  Gnmada  and  AlmerU 
amoimted  to  1,420,174  metrical  quiii- 
tain  There  it  no  tiade,  aare  a  mnch 
reduced  exportation  of  apirita^  oil, 
eaparto^  and  frnit,  which  are  principally 
ahipped  at  Motril ;  and  there  is  not  one 
aingle  mannfikctore  of  silk  or  linen ;  and 
yet  there  waa  a  time  when  the  silk 
tilde  occujrfed  thooMnda  of  handa,  and 
the  produce  waa  sent  to  Florence,  Pisa, 
Genoa,  and  the  Levant  The  regaa  and 
hUla  were  then  clothed  with  the  mnl- 
beny.  The  produce  of  each  farm  in 
the  yega,  under  the  Mooriah  role,  yielded 
on  an  average  about  £200  a-year,  and 
the  taxes  paid  by  the  farmers  to  the 
king  amonnted  to  about  £20,000.  The 
silk  crops  that  belonged  to  the  Spanish 
nionarchs  were  farmed  for  the  sum  of 
181,600  gold  ducata  a-year  ;  there  were 
180  mills  and  800  Tillages,  of  which  50 
oontained  mosques,  and  60,000  men 
oould  be  mustered  from  the  Alpajarraa, 
Sierra,  and  plains.  But  the  low  price 
of  com  and  other  produce  (the  former 
often  sold  for  20r.  the  fanega,  and  less) 
is  the  cauae  of  the  poverty  of  the  people 
and  of  the  low  wages  (6r.  to  8r.  a 
mechanic,  6r.  a  labourer,  and  24r.  at 
Loja,  Alhama,  and  the  Alpi^arras) ; 
and  these  evils  are  aggravated  by  the 
want  of  roads.  But  in  a  few  years  it 
may  be  expected  that  Granada  will 
enjoy  s:  ill  greater  railway  communica- 
tion with  the  principal  centrea  of  con- 
sumption and  trade.  The  valuation  of 
the  province,  as  estimated  in  1867,  waa 
as  follows  : — 

Landed  property  .  5s,6so,ooo 
Property    in   towns   and 

viUaget   .  18,600^000 

Manufactures  8,950,000 

Trade    ....  3,050,000 

Cattle    ihecp  1,960,000 

85,000,000 
Or  little  upwaidi  of  /810,00a 

As  for  schools  or  public  education, 
there  is  little  or  none,  beyond  a  toler- 


ably well -managed  univeratty  at 
Granada,  and  aome  wretched  public 
schools  and  private  academies.  About 
100  in  1000  know  how  to  read  and 
writer  y  loM  euatro  rtglat,  and  in  1857, 
out  of  a  population  of  444,629,  only 
14,600  attended  schools. 

As  a  race,  the  Granadino  is  lively, 
intelligent,  bold,  and  the  women  are 
fascinating  and  graceful;  but  neither 
ia  the  former  as  elegant,  witty,  and 
moqueMT  as  the  Sevilian  mijo,  nor  the 
latter  aa  pretty  and  sprightly  as  the 
Malagueftaa.  The  inhabitanta  of  the 
Alpujarras,  the  descendanta  of  the 
Berbers,  are  a  very  fine  race—hardy, 
honest,  grave,  sober.  The  men  are  tall 
and  handaome  ;  they  are  very  fond  of 
drawing  the  navaja  aa  an  '  ultima  ration ' 
and  in  the  criminal  atatistics  of  Spain 
this  province  ranka  as  the  second  for 
murder  and  maiming.  In  objocta  of 
interest,  Granada  and  its  Alhambra  are 
of  the  highest  order  in  Spain,  and  the 
Alpi^arraa  will  not  fail  to  interest  the 
artist,  geologist,  and  botanist ;  we 
recommend  pedestrians  who  may  have 
viaited  and  scaled  every  peak  in  the 
Pyrenees  and  Switzerland  to  come  here 
and  explore  this  new  field,  which  has 
been  almost  closed  hitherto  to  scientific 
investigation. 

All  who  feel  an  interest  in  the  poetry 
of  the  paat  are  doubtless  already  ac- 
quainted with  this  land  of  romance,  in 
which  every  tower  haa  been  the  scene 
of  some  love-legend,  and  every  ruin  the 
record  of  some  chivalrous  deed.  To 
those  who  would  know  more  upon  this 
score,  and  as  a  fitting  preparation  pre- 
vious to  visiting  this  part  of  S|)ain,  we 
recommend  the  reading  of  Washington 
lrving*s  "Boles  of  the  Alhambra,* 
Lockhart's  '  Balhuls,'  and  Presoott*s 
*  History  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella.' 

Granada  was  for  a  long  period  of  years 
the  seat  of  scholarship  in  Spain,  and 
gave  birth  to  aome  most  eminent  writeta 


GRANADA — ^PROVIKCS. 


so: 


•ad  artiste  Amoo^  oUwn  we  mmt 
mmtioa  Fnj  Lms  de  GfuudA  (1505). 
Hvtado  d«  Mendon  (1505),  who  wrote 
•erenlreligioas  worki,  WM  the  historian 
€i  the  wmr  ot  OimiiMU»  and  autlior  of 
tbet  eeriy  GO  Bles,  « UariUo  de 
ToraMiL'  Mmrmol  a67S),  the  author 
of  'Deecripcioii  de  Africa.*  Ponce  de 
Leon  (1529),  who  wrote  oq  theologj. 
Snares  (1543)^  <Hie  of  the  most  learned 
Jeraita,  much  praised  bj  Hngo  Grotins. 
In  aits  we  may  mention  Bocancgra 
aMO)t  Alfonso  Ouio  (1601),  and  Moya 
(1610),  all  celebrated  pointers,  and  the 
second  a  great  scolptor  besides. 

The  best  time  to  risit  this  proTince 
and  make  excursions  in  the  mountains 
is  from  Jane  to  October.  April  and  May 
are  pleasant  months  at  Granada.  The 
Sierra  Elrira,  Tejada,  Hoescar,  eta,  are 
not  qmte  so  Alpine  in  character,  or 
lofty  as  Sierra  Nerada,  bat  more  pic- 
toresqae  and  woody. 

History.— After  the  battle  of  Gaada> 
lete  (A.D.  711),  in  which  King  Rodrigo 
perilled,  and  with  him  the  Gothic 
kingdom,  the  yictorions  T^urik  advanced 
towards  Toledo,  whilst  he  entrusted  to 
lus  lieutenants  the  subjugation  of  the 
surrounding  prorinces.  The  conquest 
of  the  Illiberitan  region  was  assigned 
to  Zaid  Ibn  Kesadi,  who  soon  achieved 
it»  and  fixed  his  residence  in  lUiberis, 
the  capital.  The  exact  situation  of  this 
dty  has  not  been  ascertained,  as  it  was 
completely  destroyed,  and  the  ruins 
partly  used  in  the  building  of  Granada ; 
but  according  to  the  Arab^  lbn-1-Jathib, 
and  some  other  writers,  it  paust  hare 
been  about  8  m  W.  of  Granada,  and 
dose  to  Sierra  Elvira.  lUiberis  was  an 
important  place  under  the  Romans,  who 
had  fortified  and  enlarged  the  primitive 
Phoenician  dty.  It  is  mentioned  as 
such  in  PIiny>  'Hist  Nat,'  and  was 
raised  to  a  municipium  under  the  empire. 
The  Goths  had  not  lost  sight  of  its 
natural  advantages,  and  maintained  its  I 


rank  as  metropolis  of  that  widely  ex- 
tending region.     It  was  a  bislK^*a  see, 
and  is  odebrated  in  the  annals  of  the 
Church  as  being  the  dte  chosoi  for  the 
first  coondl  hdd  in  Spain  (SOO  A.O.). 
Granada  was  at  that  time  a  small  dty, 
inhabited  chiefly  by  the  descendants  ol 
those  Jews  who  had  fled  from  the  per- 
secution of  the  Roman  emperors  in  the 
East,  and   had   been  dispersed   over 
various  parts  of  Southern  Europeu    The 
AmaUkittiy  as  they  were  then  called, 
settled  in  Spain,  where  they  founded 
many  colonies.    They  were  of  very  high 
caste,  and  succeeded  in  acquiring  an 
independent   podtion    and    influence, 
which  at  first  they  used  to  promote  their 
oommerdd  interests,  but  subsequently 
extended  to  political  porposet.    Their 
enormous  ridies  and  power  drew  upon 
them  eventually  the  distrust  of  the 
Goth,  who  |lbraecuted  the  race  with 
merciless  envy  and  sectarian  hatred. 
The  Jews,  who  had  never  ceased  to 
hold  intercourse  with  the  Berbers^ 
themselves  half  Jews  and  half  Fugans, 
and  who  had  always  looked  on  Spain 
as  their  specid  prey — formed  a  plot, 
which  was  to  ddiver  them  of  their  op- 
presses, and  open  the  gates  of  every  dty 
in  Spain  to  thdr  allies.     This  exten- 
dve  plot  was  discovered,  and  led  only 
to  an  aggravation  of  rigour.     But  at 
length  the  Goth  was  overcome,  and  thus 
it  was  the  Jews  who  priudpally  as* 
sured  the  success  of  the  Mohammedan, 
or  rather  Berber,  invadon  of  Spain. 
As  a  reward,  therefore,  of  thdr  support, 
the  Jews  of  Granada  were  allowed  in- 
dependent residence^  whilst  the  Arabs 
retained    IlUberis,  which  they  called 
Elvira  ;  just  as  Hispalis  (Seville),  was 
turned  into  Ixbilia,  and  Sctobis  (Jativa) 
became  Xathiba.     The  etymology  o( 
Granada,  which  the  Arabs  first  called 
Kamattikh-d-Yahoud  (Granada,  of  the 
Jews),  has  been  much  and  often  dis- 
cussed.     No   satisfactory  explanation 


208 


GRANADA — ^PROYINOS. 


hat  been  giren  of  this.  The  city  then 
was  most  probably  situated  on  tiie  aite 
now  occupied  by  the  parish  of  San  Ced- 
lio,  and  under  the  shelter  of  the  Torres 
Bermcjas,  the  Red  Towers.  It  was, 
nerertheless,  made  dependent  of  the 
WaU,  or  goremor,  of  ElWra.  About 
74S,  thousands  of  Eastern  as  well  as 
AfHcan  colonists  came  to  Spain,  allured 
by  the  hope  of  riches  and  the  report  of 
the  dimate,  so  like  their  own.  Dis- 
cord, originating  firom  difference  of  race 
and  sects,  ensued,  to  settle  which  the 
Khalif  of  Damascus  decided  that  the 
third  of  the  remaining  lands  belonging 
to  the  Christians  and  Jews  should  be 
giren  orer  to  the  new  comers,  and  each 
tribe  settled  in  that  ngion  which  pos- 
sessed the  greatest  analogy  with  the 
natiye  country.  Thus,  to  the  Egyptians 
were  sllotted  the  arid  plains  and.  table- 
land of  Mnrdaand'Es^emadura.  Those 
who  came  firom  the  mountainous  regions 
of  Palestine  fixed  themselTes  in  the 
•errania  of  Ronda  and  Algedras ;  the 
l^on  from  the  Talley  of  the  Jordan 
chose  the  fields  of  Archidona  and 
Malaga,  and  10,000  Damascenes  settled 
in  the  proTince  of  Elyira,  which  re- 
minded them  of  the  sunny  land  ihey 
had  quitted.  Indeed  the  vega  appeared 
to  them  to  surpass  their  'QhautUdi '  in 
extent,  fertility,  and  beauty ;  the  Qenil 
was  not  unlike  the  Barada,  and  the  Sierra 
Nerada  bore  resemblance  to  the  snowy 
summits  of  Mount  Hermon.  In  their 
Oriental  style,  they  called  it  rapturously 
the  Skdm  or  '  Damascus '  of  the  West^ 
a  terrestrial  paradise,  whose  fountains 
were  pure  and  fresh  as  the  breath  of  the 
houris.  Here  the  myrtle  and  the  pome- 
granate, the  fig-tree  and  the  citron,  the 
olire  and  the  vine  grew  in  wild  luxu- 
riance; the  lofty  sierra  screened  the 
dty  from  the  icy  north,  and  the  town 
rose  on.  a  height,  like  a  throne  of  splen- 
dour, canopied  by  that  deep^  turquoise, 
spotleas  sky  of  Spain  (which  really 


seems  like  a  rerersed  MediterraseanX 
'so  calm  and  soft,  and  beantiftilly  blue^ 
that  Qod  alone  was  to  be  seen  in  hea- 
ven.'—<Byron.) 

We  hear  little  or  nothing  of  Granada's 
destinies  until  the  formation  of  the 
Ummeyidi  empire  of  CordoTa,  under  the 
rule  of  which  the  dty  was  enlarged  and 
fortified.  The  Eadimldi  (or  old  fortress) 
was  built  about  that  time,  and  shortly 
before,  the  Kal'at  Al-hamrA,  or  red 
caatle,  was  erected  to  oppose  the  inroads 
of  the  disaffected  tribes.  On  the  dis- 
solution and  downfall  of  the  Ummeyidi 
dynasty  (which  was  hsstened  by  the 
death  of  its  chief  supporter,  Al-Mans- 
so&r),  the  Mohammedan  empire  in  Spain 
was  broken  up  into  numerous  petty  in- 
dependent kingdoms^  or  tajku,  Granada 
then  fdl  to  the  lot  of  its  Berber,  Well 
Zawi  Ibn  Zeyri,  who  became  its  fint 
king.  The  importance  of  Granada  roee 
rapidly.  Its  palmiest  days  were  under 
the  Naserite  dynasty,  which  was  founded 
by  Ibn-1-Ahmar,  the  builder  of  the  Al- 
hambra  palace.  During  his  glorious, 
yet  peaceful  reign,  it  became  the  em- 
porium of  the  West,  and,  according  to 
Arab  authorities,  boasted  a  population 
of  400,000  inhabitants,  beddes  a  garri- 
son of  00,000  soldiers.  But  dril  strifb 
(that  usual  Moslem  germ  of  death  and 
disunion)  and  petty  personal  Jealousies 
amongst  the  goyemors  of  rival  dtiea, 
together  with  the  difference  of  races 
between  the  tribes  that  composed  the 
heterogeneous  court,  people,  and  ha- 
rem (that  typical  Camarilla),  all  has- 
tened the  tUnouemeni  of  the  stirring 
and  poetic  drama  which  forms  her  his- 
tory, by  seconding  but  too  effectually 
the  plans  of  the  w^y  and  daring  Chris- 
tian princea,  whose  eoffdoumum  and  jmt- 
$onal  amhiUim  went,  as  usual,  by  the. 
more  popular  names  of  4>rthodoxy  and 
patriotism.  The  marriage  of  Ferdinand 
of  Aragon  with  Tsabd  of  Castflesealed 
the  fate  of  divided  Granada  by  uniting 


LA  GRANJA. 


S09 


tiie  icsoiiroet  of  the  nation ;  mud  after 
ft  pcotncted  nege^  dgnelised  hj  daily 
deeds  of  prowew  on  both  sidea,  Uie  dty 
at  last  surrendered  on  Jane  2, 1492.  On 
the  morning  of  that  day  Boabdil,  on 
the  banks  of  the  Genii,  delivered  np 
the  keys  of  the  Alhambim  to  Ferdinand 
and  IsabeUa,  the  former  of  whom,  ac- 
cording to  Arab  chronidea,  compelled 
him  to  dismount  and  kiss  his  hand,  and 
addressed  him  in  Toy  harsh  terms.  The 
standardi  of  the  Cross  of  Castile^  Arm- 
gon,  and  Santiago  wared  on  the  shat- 
tered walls  of  the  Alhambra,  and  thns 
ended  the  Mohammedan  role  in  Spain. 


Boabdil  and  his  ff^owen,  after  spend- 
ing  some  time  in  the  Alp^garra^  em* 
barked  for  Fes  on  board  ^  reiy  ships 
which  had  escorted  Oolnmbos  on  lUs 
second  Toyage  to  America,  canying 
with  him  Ids  riches,  whidi,  though 
mach  diminished,  amounted  to  the  thai 
enormous  sum  of  9,000,000  maraTedis. 
Not  long  after  his  arriTal  in  Morocco, 
where  he  had  met  with  a  hospitable  and 
honourable  welcome,  he  lost  his  life  in 
a  batUe  fought  on  behalf  of  his  ally, 
thus  dying  for  a  cause  which  was  not 
his  own,  whilst  he  had  cowardly  de* 
serted  the  interests  of  his  throne. 


QRANJA  (LA). 


Boutas  and  Oouts — From  Madrid 
hy  rail  to  YiUalba  in  (hr. ;  whence  by 
special  diL  in  attendance ;  fares,  etc, 
see  SesfOfria  (6  hours  in  sll).  At  YiU- 
alba sereral  public  couTeyances  daily 
during  the  season  {la  tcmpcrada),  and 
only  one  in  winter.  The  routes  also 
chuige  according  to  the  season,  on 
account  of  the  snow,  and  we  there- 
fore recommend  tourists  to  omit  this 
excursion  altogether  in  winter,  when 
the  trees  sie  leafless,  the  fountains 
stopped  up>  and  aU  looks  like  a  stsge 
when  the  jday  is  oyer.  On  the  whole, 
except  for  the  gardens,  La  Grai^ja  ii 
not  worth  the  trouble  of  a  risit  '  Les 
grandee  eaux,'  when  la$  agwu  comm, 
may  be  seen  on  great  holidays  court 
anniTersariea,  etc.,  and  when  the  court 
is  there.  There  is  also  a  picturesque 
route  from  the  Seconal  over  the  Gua-  < 
dairama  chain. 

/mill — ^Fonda  de  la  Vixcaina  and  de 
Athan^ 

Oeneral  Dasoription. — La  Graiga 
(the  Grange)*  also  called  San  lldefonso, 
is  a  iSttM  BmL  S  m.  fstsaa  this  stood 
formerly  the  Pslace  of  Yalsain,  which 
Philip  II.  had  embellished,  now  a  ruin. 
Philip  Y.,  who  liked  the  surrounding 


countiy,  decided  on  building  a  palace, 
which,  as  usuaL  was  not  onlv  to  equal, 
but  to  edipee  Versailles.  La  Graiga, 
situated  8840  ft.  aboYC  the  sea,  abun- 
dant in  water  and  trees,  appeared  to 
him  a  suitable  dte.  Tliis  grange  or 
farm-house  was  therefore  purchased 
from  the  SegoTian  monks  of  £1  ParraL 
The  works  were  b^gun  in  1719,  and 
completed  in  1748.  The  architects 
employed  were  JulMm»  Sachetti,  Du- 
mandrft,  Thieny,  ete.  But,  as  often 
happens,  when  this  golden  csge  was 
ready,  Philip  Y.  died  (1748),  not  with- 
out baTing,  howerer,  sojourned  in  it 
for  some  months.  Charles  III.  built 
the  Tillage,  and  made  serersl  important 
additions  to  it  Erery  year  the  court 
remoTcs  to  this  palace  when  the  heat 
and  terdanas  b^^in  at  Araigues,  and 
usually  remains  July,  August,  and 
September. 

Falao«,-^The  pindpsl  farads  looks 
towa^  the  gardens.  iThe  central 
apartments  sie  inhabited  by  the  royal 
family,  and  in  the  wings  the  household 
sie  lodged.  The  modem  apartments 
are  airr  and  oheerfVil,  well  fiimiBhed, 
but  without  magniflcence.  In  the 
lower  floor  there  is  a  good  collection  of 


210 


JBRBZ. 


statues  and  antiquities,  which  was 
formed  by  the  celebrated  Queen  Chris- 
tina of  Sweden ;  but  the  best  paintings 
and  marbles  have  been  .removed  to  the 
Madrid  Museum.  The  Colegiata,  or 
Chapel  Boyal,  was  designed  by  Axd&- 
man ;  it  is  in  nowise  remarkable.  The 
ceilings  and  domes  are  by  Bayeu,  Maella, 
and  other  mediocrities.  Obserre  the 
fine  jaspers  which  compose  the  retablo, 
the  fine  lapis  lazuli  tabernacle,  the 
tombs  of  Aiilip  Y.  and  his  queen 
Isabella  Famese,  all  the  works  of  French 
artists^  and  rerealing  bad  taste  and  a 
decided  hatred  to  simplicity.  The 
Oardent  are,  however,  the  great  attrac- 
tion here.  They  are  certainly  the  finest 
in  Spain,  and  held  by  Spaniards  as  very 
superior  to  those  of  Versailles.  Observe 
the  Cascade  Cenador,  a  grand  sheet  of 
falling  water,  which  gUtters  gloriously 
in  the  sun.  There  are  twenty-six  foun- 
tains, many  of  them  very  remarkable ; 
the  principal  are  FuenU  de  la$  Banas 
(or  the  frogs);  a  series  of  cascatela, 
called  La  (Jarrtra  de  Oaballoa;  El 
CkmaMlo,  a  large  corbeille  of  flowers 
and  fruits  from  which  the  water  spouts 
en  gerbe,  forty  jets  in  number,  and  rises 
to  75  ft.  That  of  tlie  Fama  reaches 
180  ft,  and  the  BaiHot  de  Diana  is  an 
admirable  mythological  scene,  before 
which  the  never  -  would  •  be  •  amused 
Philip  y.  stopped  for  a  moment  when 
it  was  completed.  '  It  has  cost  me,  *  he 
said,  'three  milUons^  but  for  three 
minutes  I  have  been  amused  1'    The 


statues  most  admired  are  ApcUo, 
Daphne,  LiuntUa,  Baethua,  Jmeriea, 
etc.  The  usual  labyrinth,  Swiss  hills, 
etc,  commonly  seen  in  every  royal  gar- 
den, are  also  here.  The  reaervado,  or 
private  gardens,  which  contain  indiffei- 
ent  conservatories  and  a  fine  orchard, 
SI  Fioiori,  require  a  spedal  papeleta. 

Excursions  can  be  made  to  El  Fiaular, 
riding  by  the  EevenUm,  a  jmss  frco 
which  a  good  view  is  obtained  of  the 
Pel&alera,  a  mountain  which  rises  85C0 
ft.  Thia^  once  a  wealthy  Carthusian 
convent,  is  now  scarcely  worth  seeing, 
as  it  has  been  seriously  ii^ured,  used  as 
a  glass  -  manufactory  etc,  and  the 
paintings  removed  to  the  Madrid  Mueeo, 
It  was  erected  by  Juan  I.  of  Castile. 
The  church  dates  middle  of  the  15th 
century.  The  CapOla  de  los  Beyes  is 
the  work  of  Alfonso  Rodrigo,  1890. 
The  ceilings  were  painted  by  Palomina. 
There  are  two  or  three  fine  tombs. 
Close  by  is  also  the  indifferent  villa  of 
Queen  Christina,  called  QuUa  Pemree, 
Six  miles  off  is  the  small  nnfinished 
palace  of  Rio  Frio,  which  was  begun  by 
the  widowed  queen  of  Philip  Y.  The 
boar-hunting  is  first-rate,  and  frequently 
enjoyed  by  Uie  King  Consort 

Books  of  Boferenoe. — 1.  '  Com- 
pendio  historico,  topog.,  etc.,  de  los 
Jardines  y  Fuentcs  del  real  Sitio  de  San 
ndefonso,'  by  Sedefto ;  Madrid,  A. 
Martinez,  1825,  8vo.  Very  complete 
and  trustworthy ;  contains  descriptions 
of  Rio-frio  and  Yalsain. 


JEREZ  (pron,  herez). 


Hotels.— All  middling.  The  Fonda 
de  Luna  is  veiy  decent  and  dean,  and 
the  host  civil  Table  dlidte  at  4  p.m., 
15r.  ;  80r.,  bedroom  and  meals  in- 
cluded. The  wine  as  bad  as  can  be  ex- 
pected in  a  wine-producing  city,  and 
dearer  than  in  London.  There  is  also  a 
decent  Inn  de  la  Victoria  on  the  Plaza. 


Boutes  and  OonTeyanoea^ — ^From 
Seville,  by  rail,  8  hours. 

From  Cadiz,  by  rail,  14  hr. ;  distance, 
804  >i^  f  ^  stations  are  San  Fernanda, 
PuertaReal,PuertaSta.  Maria.  This  is 
a  pleasant  trip  through  arich  wine-grow- 
ing country,  studded  with  gay-looking 
whitewashed  caserioa  and  cartgoa. 


JEBEZ. 


211 


From  GibrdUar.  A  wOd  ride  of  174 
Ifltgnes  across  pictoresque  scenery. 

IHmtrmy,  he»gum. 

Gtbrmltar 

San  Roque  to  la  PohroriDa     .    3I 
'    Alcali  de  lot  Gaxulet  (sleep 

here) 4 

Paiema 5 

Jeres 5 

(60  milea.)  17I 

Aleald  de  lo§  OoouUm.  —  A  decent 
posado  ;  8827  inhabitants,  close  to  the 
Barbate.  It  was  a  small  Roman  town 
fortified  by  the  Arabs,  and  which  be- 
came the  appanage  and  stronghold  of 
the  poisaaut  family  of  the  Qazoles, 
whence  its  name,  Al  kabat,  the  fortress 
of  the  Gaznles. 

Tne  castle  was  blown  np  by  the 
French  in  1811.  The  old  town  was 
perched,  so  to  speak,  on  a  lofty  hill 
sorronnded  by  snialler  cerros ;  nothing 
remains  Of  it  save  portions  of  its  walls 
and  the  gates  called  Nnera  and  De  la 
Villa.  The  new  or  present  town 
stands  on  the  slopes  of  the  Cerro  de  los 
Aroos,  embosomed  amid  yines.  The 
city  contains  restiges,  none  of  great 
importance^  of  the  16th  and  10th  cen- 
tories.  In  its  placa,  once  de  San  Jorge, 
now  de  la  Constitnciony  is  the  old  Par- 
roqnia.  It  preserves  only  an  ogival 
portal,  with  pretty  statuettes  of  the 
16th  century,  when  it  was  built ;  all  the 
interior  is  classical,  with  predous  mar- 
bles and  fine  black  jasper  of  Pefia 
Jarpa.  The  belfry,  some  180  ft.  high, 
is  built  of  brick  and  crowned  with  ez- 
qmsite  axulejo  work.  The  large  Domi- 
nican conrent  de  las  Sagradaa  Uagas, 
which  the  Harqu^  de  Tarifa  founded, 
has  been  turned  into  barracks  and 
stores. 

Pattma. — Formeriy  an  appanage  of 
the  Duques  de  Alcald.  Here  are  crossed 
some  heights  which  divide  thitf  small 
hamlet  £rom  the  Cuenca  of  the  Quad- 


alete,  the  celebrated  Oartiga  of  Jeres  is 
left  to  the  right,  and  in  the  distance, 
and  through  the  wrtijo$^  ramdiot^  d^ 
hemu^  aU  things  of  semi-AMcan  Anda- 
lusia, we  descry  Jeres,  one  of  the  pret- 
tiest Andalusian  cities. 

From  JUmda,  riding;  16  leagues.  A 
heavy  ride  across  the  Sernnia  de 
Bonds,  but  which  can  be  performed 
with  all  safety. 


Ituttrwy, 
Rooda  to  Grazalema 
£1  Bosque 
Arcos  (sleep  here)   . 
Jeres        ... 


(50  miles.) 


•  3 

•  3 

•  5 
•J. 

16 


Leave  Ronda  at  6  ▲.!!.,  bait  the 
horses  and  breakfast  at  El  Bosque  at 
10  ▲.]!.,  and  get  into  Aroos  at  about 
6.80  P.M. 

General  Description. — Jeres  de  la 
Frontera,  so  called  to  distinguish  from 
Jeres  de  los  (DabaUeros,  is  a  pleasantly 
situated,  sunny,  busyt  tidy  town.  It 
belongs  to  the  province  of  Cadis,  and 
has  a  population  of  62,000  souls.  The 
houses  are  aU  whitewashed  or  gaily 
painted,  with  elegant  ndradores,  charm- 
ing cool  patios,  and  so  clean  and  fresh 
that  they  appear  but  just  built  There 
is  a  pretty  plaza  with  stone  seats  all 
round,  and  stately  palms  waving  their 
green  plumage  and  golden  fruit  in  the 
air.  There  is  great  cofulewr  loeaU 
about  the  houses  and  the  people^  who 
seem  to  have  retained  —  more  than 
any  other  Andalusian  province— all  the 
softness  of  manner,  the  gentleman-like 
bearings  the  graceful  mien  and  atti- 
tudes and  refinement  of  the  Moors. 
There  are  some  English,  German,  and 
French  wine-meichants  estalilished 
here,  and  some  of  them  possess  very 
pretty  villas  in  the  environs.  Besides 
its  palace -like  bodegas,  the  abode  of 
King  Sherry,  there  are  some  si^ts 
which  deserve  the  tourist's  attention— 


212 


JBRXZ. 


fluch  tt  tbe  Alcftzar,  Cathedral,  Church 
of  San  Migael,  and  la  Cartnja ;  bat  all 
theaa,  and  the  renowned  bodegaa,  can 
be  easily  teen  In  a  day,  bj  commencing 
early,  and  returning  late  to  Cadiz  or 
proceeding  to  Serille. 

Hiatorioal  Notica.— Jeres  waa  one 
of  the  eariieet  Phoenician  colonies  in 
Spain,  the  *Asidoqn»  OMarina'  of  Pliny, 
and  not  the  Persian  Chtraxas  many 
anthers  hare  erroneonsly  asserted.  The 
name  Xerei  Sidonia  is  found  on  Latin 
charts  of  the  ISth  and  14th  centuries, 
Asidona  being  a  corruption  of  Aside. 
The  Mussulmans  turned  Coemrit  AH' 
dona  into  Cseris  Sidonia,  abbreviating 
it  finally  to  Csris  alone.  They  thus 
suppressed  the  second  q^ble,  as  they 
did  with  the  Boman  name  of  OBra- 
gusta  (Cnsar  Augusta)  applied  to  Zara- 
gosa.  Close  to  It  took  {dace  the  battle 
of  the  Quadalete  which  opened  Spain 
to  the  iuTading  Moor.  Ferdinand  III., 
el  Santo,  recorered  it  in  1261,  but  it 
was  retaken  by  the  Moor%  to  be  re- 
gained 1264  by  Alfonso  the  Learned, 
who  granted  to  it  many  important  pri- 
vileges^ and  peopling  it  with  for^  hi- 
dalgos, the  muehe  of  the  present  Jeret- 
sna  nobility ;  fortifying  it  considerably, 
he  styled  it  the  frontier  keep  of  Anda- 
lusia, whence  its  name,  de  la  FranUra, 
In  the  municipal  arohires  of  the  town 
there  still  exists  the  original  chart  of 
grant  aigned  by  this  wise  and  learned 
king.  To  the  forty  gentlemen  who  be- 
came his  vassals,  he  grants  to  hold  in 
feud,  'houses,  six  aranzadas  of  vine- 
yards ;  two  of  huerta ;  fifteen  of  olive 
grounds,  six  aranzadas  of  careftilly  plant- 
ed vines,  six  yugsdas  (the  extent  which 
twelve  bullocks  can  plough  in  a  day) 
for  com,  and  besides  200  maravedis  of 
the  king's  privy  purse.' 

Sighia.— TU  ^Jeojor.-^This  pictur- 
esque old  palatial  fortress,  which  has 
jeen  the  scene  of  so  many  herolo  deeds, 
melancholy  confinements,  and  amorous 


scenes,  looks  as  if  it  had  been  but  just  fin- 
ished, for  the  soft  climate  of  Andalusia 
preserves  monuments  in  all  their  pris- 
tine state.  It  is  close  to  the  charming 
shady  Alameda,  and  from  the  platforms 
of  its  Torre  del  Homenage  and  the  octa- 
gonal tower  to  the  left,  the  views  ex- 
tend over  its  own  gardens,  and  an  hori- 
zon formed  by  Sierras  richly  tinted  with 
green  and  purple  hues,  and  worthy  of  a 
Caspar  Poussin  or  a  Claude  de  Lorraine. 
Its  chapel  is  small  and  circular,  and 
was  founded  by  Alfonso  the  Learned. 
This  palace,  the  property  of  the  youth- 
ful Duke  of  San  Lorenzo,  has  been  re- 
cently repaired.  The  Salon  del  Trono 
and  patios  are  all  that  attract  any 
notice. 

tf  allpbrnl— The  Colegiata  was  begun 
in  1096,  and  was  completed  by  Cayon, 
the  architect  of  the  Cathedral  of  Seville. 
It  is  a  good  specimen  of  churrigueresque. 
The  interior  Is  laige,  spacious,  lofty, 
but  in  pseudo-clasBJcsl  bad  taste.  At- 
tached to  the  cathedral  is  a  good  library 
and  monetario  collected  by  the  Bishop 
of  Siguenzs,  Diaz  de  la  Guerra,  a  native 
of  Jerez. 

San  MigHel.^lU  fSei^e  is  of  bastard 
Gneco-Roman,  a  mask  hiding  a  former 
plain  but  not  inelegant  ogival  medieval 
front;  there  are  Beminesque  pillars, 
statues,  and  details  In  questionable 
taste.  The  lateral  portals  have  retain- 
ed exquisite  portions  of  the  Gothic 
period.  The  Sagrario  is  a  Corinthian 
chapel,  also  indifierent  The  interior 
is  very  elegant,  and  were  it  carefully  re. 
paired,  would  be  most  striking.  It  be- 
longs to  the  period  of  decline,  when  it 
was  built  (1482).  It  consists  of  three 
naves  divided  by  massive  pillars,  from 
whose  plain  and  elegant  capitids  the 
ogival  arches  of  tlie  lateral  naves  sprinf^ 
not  without  boldness^  and  which  sup- 
port th^  groups  of  shafts  or  rods  in 
which  the  roof  of  the  centre  nave  rests. 
The  piers  of  the  transept  are  higher 


JJERKZ. 


213 


Uian  the  rest,  composed  of  bundles  of 
shAllB  and  elaborately  ornamented  with 
foliage^  niche-work,  and  monldings. 
The  transept  is  most  profiisely  orna- 
mented ;  the  lines  and  details  are  com- 
plicated, and  the  roof^  pillars,  arches, 
etc,  are  exuberantly  loaded  witii  tracery 
and  net-work.  Boberts'  picture  of 
this  transept,  though  poeHted,  conveys 
a  just  idea  of  the  effect  produced.  Ob- 
mrv9  in  the  pfesbytery  of  high  altar, 
not  the  tiiree  orders  adapted  by  igno- 
rant restauradores  to  the  original  Gothic, 
but  Che  excellent  bassi*relieTi  by  Mon- 
tatkes,  and  representing  Annunciation, 
Natiyity,  Adoration,  Circumcision, 
Transfiguratbn,  our  Lord  in  Limbo, 
and  St  Michael,  for  which  he  receiyed 
8200  ducats.  It  dates  about  1025.  All 
the  conditions  of  the  contract  between 
him  and  the  church,  with  the  detailed 
description  of  the  reUeros,  how  they 
were  to  be  executed,  etc.,  and  other 
curious  information  respecting  this  fine 
retaUo,  may  be  found  in  the  archives 
of  this  church.  The  portals  inside  are 
elegantly  designed;  obeenre  that  of 
Capilla  del  Bratisma  The  altar  and 
smaU  Chapel  de  las  Animas  has  a  re- 
tablo  of  the  most  extravagant  painted 
sculpture  representing  the  souls  of  pur- 
gatory, en  penonne,  with  St.  Michael 
above,  and  on  left  St  Peter  holdiog  the 
keysL  Upon  the  r^'a  which  rails  it  in, 
and  at  intervals,  are  placed  five  wooden 
skuUs,  all  crowned,  one  with  a  tiara,  a 
second  with  a  kingly  crown,  a  third 
with  a  Cardinalate  burette,  etc. 

The  Capilla  dd  Sagrario  is  richly 
ornamented ;  the  windows  are  elegant, 
the  folding  doors  by  Berruquette :  the 
Christ  by  Montafies. 

San  Ditmino. — An  exquisite  and 
well-preserved  example  of  the  Moro- 
Gothio  style  so  previJent  in  Alfonso  el 
Sabio's  time.  The  facade  reminds  one 
of  the  earlier  churches  of  Cordova  and 
Seville.   Observe  the  painted  arohivanlt 


of  portal,  with  flat  leaves  on  the  exter- 
nal moulding;  the  projecting  aleso  with 
dogs'  heads,  the  sgimes  under  the  plain 
circular  windows,  and  the  stone-built 
tower  on  left  of  the  apse,  and  decorated 
with  horseshoe  sgimeces  and  buttresses. 
The  apee  is  likewise  of  stone,  with  mas- 
sive buttresses  and  middle -painted 
windows  decorated  with  delicate  mould- 
ings and  Byzantine  capitals.  The  spouts 
of  the  gutters  are  CuitasticaUy  shaped 
into  varied  forms  of  grotesque  animals, 
peeping  through  the  thick  weeds  and 
Uohens,  and  produce  a  picturesque  effect 
This,  one  of  the  finest,  and,  as  we  have 
already  said,  of  the  most  perfect  and 
well-preserved  specimens  of  the  Mude* 
jar  style  in  Spain,  was  built  and  dedi- 
cated to  St  IMonysius  (to  whose  inter- 
cession he  considered  he  owed  the 
taking  of  Jeres)  by  Alfonso  the  Learned, 
middle  of  18th  century. 

Santioffo  was  built  in  the  time  of  the 
Catholic  kings.  Observe  an  exquisite 
ogival  lateral  fafade  of  the  third  period 
with  good  statues.  The  principal 
fa^e  was  awkwardly  repaired  and 
modemmi  in  1068.  The  interior  is 
divided  into  three  elegant  naves  by 
ogival  arches  resting  on  pillars,  whose 
^t  capitals  are  in  tiie  shape  of  crowns. 

fPiHis-(7e/2ar9.— These  Bacchus'  pa- 
laces are  the  style  of  architecture  which 
the  Jerezanos  admire  most ;  and  palaces 
they  truly  are  rather  than  oeUars,  as 
some  of  Uiem  connst  of  ten  or  twelve 
spacious  naves,  containing  upwards  of 
10,000  (otoi.  They  areshown  to  visitors 
on  application  to  the  proprietors  or  their 
principal  clerics,  daily,  except  Sundays, 
and  until  2  p.m.  All  the  different  pro- 
cesses practised  here  can  be  followed  in 
some  minutes,  from  the  pressing  of  the 
grape  to  bottling  ready  for  exportation. 

The  bodegas  which  are  better  w(nth 
a  visit  are  Uiose  of  Messieort  Duboso, 
Byass^  k  Co.,  and  of  Sr.  Pedro  Domeoq. 
The    principal  wine  •  merohanti   an 


2U 


JEREZ. 


fonignen,  English,  German,  and  French. 
The  wine  is  not  sold  on  the  spot,  nor 
are  orders  for  England  received,  as  this 
wonld  be  a  detriment  to  the  merchants' 
English  agents ;  besides  which  the  prices 
really  differ  little,  whether  pnrchased 
in  England  or  at  the  bodega,  and  to  be 
shipped  afterwards.  The  different  sorts 
of  wine  are  generously  offered  to  taste ; 
and  the  best  qualities  are  left  for  the 
last  Monsienr  Domeoq's  private  cellar 
contains  most  exquisite  varieties  of  the 
golden  juice.  Ask  to  be  introduoed  to 
his  venerable  monster  cask,  Napoleon. 
Messrs.  Dubosc's  1820  and  1888  sherries 
are  perfect ;  there  are  colour,  flavour, 
age,  and  prioes  to  satisfy  every  taste  and 
pocket 

The  Oartuia. — Three  miles  from  Je- 
res,  twenty-five  min.  drive  in  a  calesa. 
A  good  carretela  may  be  also  procured 
for  from  25r.  to  80r.  (0  shillings)  there 
and  back.  Close  to  tiiis  old  Cuthusian 
convent  rolls  the  Quadalete,  the  Chrysos 
of  the  Greeks  and  Bomans,  from  its 
yellow  waters;  the  Arab's  river  of 
delight,  W^^a-leded.  On  iU  banks 
the  celebrated  battle  was  fought,  July 
26,  711,  between  the  disorganised  ef- 
feminate army  of  Don  Rodrigo  and 
the  Berber  undisciplined  but  wiiy  bold 
tribes  of  Tarik  and  Mouskl  The  car- 
tc^a  was  founded  in  1477,  by  Don 
Alvaro  Obertos  de  Yaleto,  who  is 
buried  here,  and  died  1482.  'ThepUter- 
esque  portions  were  executed  ixk  the 
middle  of  the  18tli  century.  The  prin- 
cipal facade  was  the  work  of  Andres 
de  Bibera,  1571.  Four  large  ^uted 
Doric  pillars  flank  the  superb  circular 
arched  portaL  The  niches  are  filled 
with  statues  of  the  Viigin,  St  Bruno, 
and  St  Austin.  Over  the  cornice  is  a 
front  with  eflSgy  of  God  the  Father. 
This  portal  leads  to  a  spacious  patio, 
in  which  U  tlie  bastard  Corinthian 
facade  of  the  church,  dating  1M7,  and 


over-oraamented  with  details  and  indif- 
ferent statues  of  saints.  There  are 
three  patios  or  cloisters  within,  the 
principal  of  which  ig  daasicnl,  and 
with  twenty-four  white  marble  pillars. 
The  second  is  a  daustriUo,  wiUi  four 
plain  piUars  and  delicate  Byxantine 
leaf-work  on  the  capitals.  It  belongp 
to  the  Gothic  of  decline  as  well  as  the 
third  period.  little  remains  here  now, 
save  the  empty  cells,  an  old  cross,  and 
some  cypresses,  of  what  was  once  the 
wealthiest  monasteiy  in  this  part  pf  the 
world,  a  repository  of  arts  and  a  school  of 
learned  and  wise  men,  who  were  first-rate 
farmers  and  the  most  celebrated  horse- 
breeders  in  Andalusia.  Most  of  its 
finest  Zurbarans  were,  at  the  suppression 
of  the  convent,  sent  to  France  and  Eng- 
land, and  have  been  sold  for  a  song  at 
the  sales  of  Louis  Philippe's  and  Mr. 
Standiah's  collections  in  1858  ;  the  rest 
were  removed  to  and  are  now  at  the 
Cadiz  Picture  Gallery  (Museo).  The 
Yeguada,  or  breeding  stables,  were  sup- 
pressed in  1888,  and  the  vinejrards  sold. 
In  the  distanoe,  near  La  Csrtuja,  rises 
a  small  hill,  £1  Real  (the  camp)  de 
Don  Rodrigo,  where  this  iU-'fiited 
monarch  had  his  head-quarters  during 
the  battle. 

Artm  df  la  Fhmifrm  (5  leagnei),  is.»03 
tnlwhiranli,  a  good  poMdo  outade  the  town  00 
the  Jeres  road. 

lliis  aodent  dty  rises  picturesquely  00  the 
S.E.  dopes  of  ft  huge  Moos-Seniuus,  whose 
base  is  watered  by  the  Gumdalete,  which 
gndles  ftlniost  all  the  town,  end  is  joinMlftaud 
its  fertile  plains  by  the  Mi^aceite.  The  view  of 
tU  distant  bhie  hUk  of  the  Sierra  blending 
with  the  sky  is  charming  firom  its  high  Plasa 
del  Ayuntamiento.  It  was  recovered  firom  the 
Mooci  in  1*34  by  the  Infente  D.  Enrique,  son 
of  St.  Ferdinand.  It  fell  again  into  the  hands 
of  the  Moors,  and  was  finally  recovered  and 
peopled  by  Alfonso  el  Sabio  in  1864.  It  was 
the  Aroo  Briga  of  the  Iberians,  and  Ard 
Coloma  of  the  Romans.  Its  important  positaoa 
as  the  key  of  the  Seville  and  Rooda  regions 
on  that  side  caused  it  to  be  called  dt  im  /WW* 
inu,  which,  moreover,  distinguishes  It  from 


LBOK. 


S15 


,  .»  MUfliMthe 
andplaia.    Tbe 


•hotlN 


GodMcpovtilortiM 
dd  Ac«K  and  is 


P^wlo  <M  Riy  s  Ike 


Safiott  dt  Hortalas. 

;  7549  i«liiNta«ti.  U  «m  «m  of 
the  leeis  of  tke  mianmdo  Rodiico  PbMede 
Leon  10  cafMnrt  tidt  tlwB  i^poitaM  Mroi^teld 

iKtiMaiOM 


LEON  (FroTinM  ofX 


(}60gr«phioaL — ^The  former  Beino 
de  Leon  has  been  divided  into  the  fire 
present  pcoTincee  of  Salamanca,  pop. 
262,883  ;  Leon,  pop.  840,244 ;  Yallado- 
lid,  pop.  246,981  ;  Palenda,  186,955 ; 
and  Zamora,  pop.  248,502  ;  total, 
1,284,065.  Tlie  extent  coroprisod  by 
them  it  some  20,000  square  miles.  It 
is  bounded  on  the  N.  bj  the  Montesde 
Leon,  a  ramification  or  branch  of  the 
Sierra  de  Astorias ;  on  the  £.  by  the 
plains  of  Gastilla  la  Yicja,  Sierras  de 
Oca,  de  Urbiad,  on  the  S.  bj  the  Sierra 
de  Gata,  de  Franda  (5202  ft  abore  the 
lerel  of  the  sea),  Siena  de  Arilla,  which 
separates  it  firom  Estremadora  and 
Castile ;  and  on  the  W.  by  the  Sierra 
de  Porto^  Portugal,  and  proyince  of 
Com&a.  The  principal  rivers  are  the 
Luna,  Orbigo^  Perma,  Esla,  Ormafia, 
Bemesga,  fhmi  N.  to  S.,  which  all 
empty  themselyes  into  the  Duero  and 
the  Tonnes.  The  principal  hilly  dis- 
tricts are  Laceana,  Babia,  Arguelles, 
OmaAa.  The  southern  slopes  of  the 
range  of  hills  that  divide  Astnrias  from 
Leon  are  less  rapid  and  steep  on  this 
tide,  bat  like  the  other  in  sspeot  and 
faristy.    The  peaks  and  mors  elevated 


plateaux  are  covered  with  afanost  per* 
petual  snow;  a  wild  vegetation  pre- 
vails in  its  gorges;  the  beeeh-trss^ 
oaks  (Qmrcui  robmr  and  QMtrmu  itee), 
grow  luxuriantly.  The  plains,  extend- 
ing to  some  861  leagues,  are  wind- 
blown, treeless,  but  com -growing  or 
consist  of  pasture-land. 

History. — ^This  kingdom  was  the 
second  in  Spain  (Asturias  the  first) 
which  rose  against  the  Mussulman,  and 
began  that  long  reaction  and  straggle 
between  North  and  Soath,  Christianity 
and  Mohammedanism,  which  lasted  op- 
wards  of  seven  oenturies.  Pelayo, 
King  of  Oviedo,  captured  Leon  from 
the  Infidel,  and  founded  its  independ- 
ence. Alfonso  the  Catholic  (a.i>.  789- 
57)  extended  the  limits  of  the  rsino 
beyond  the  Duero  to  the  frontiers  of 
Estremadura.  Castile,  under  Count 
Feman  Oonsalei,  became  separate  from 
Xeon,  to  which  it  belonged,  but  was 
once  more  annexed  to  it  by  marriage 
and  finally  absorbed  it  The  first  who 
was  styled  King  of  Leon  and  Castile 
was  Ferdinand,  son  of  Sanoho  the 
Great  His  heir,  Sancho  el  Fuerte, 
celebrated  for  being  one  of  thedrawKi 


216 


UBON 


ptrmmm  in   that  dranuitio  poem  the 
'  Romanoero  del  Cid, '  wtt  treecheroiuly 
mardered  at  the  siege  of  Zamon,  by 
Belledo  Dolfoa.    Alfonso  YL,  his  bro- 
ther, who  had  ordered  this  crimen  was 
raised  to  the  throne  under  the  name  of 
King  of  Leon  and  Castile.    The  two 
kingdoms  were  often  severed  and  united 
again  by  civil  wars,  and  finally  joined 
at  the  ^eath  of  Alfonso  IX.  in  the  per- 
son of  St  Ferdinand.    The  Moors  never 
settled  down  regularly  in  Leon — not 
from  the  valour,  indomitable  energy, 
etc.,  of  the  inhabitants,  who  were  driven 
by  them  from  Toledo  into  the  moun- 
tain fortresses,  but  because  tlie  cold, 
damp   dimate,    the    poverty   of  the 
people,  the  wretchedness  found  in  cities 
and  villages,  churches  and  palaces,  did 
not   tempt   them.      They,    therefore, 
limited  themselves  to  periodical  raids, 
carrying  off  cattle,  sheep^  and  grain, 
and  destroying  everything  with  fire  and 
sword.    The  most  celebrated  inroads  of 
the  Moors  took  place  under  Almans- 
soiu*,  the  Moorish  Cid ;  the  first  in  996, 
sgainst  Santiago,  when  sll  was  rased  to 
the  ground ;   and  the  next  in  1002, 
when  the  great  hero,  ill  and  weak  as  he 
was,  assembled  20,000  men  at  Toledo, 
and  devastated  the  country  on  all  sides. 
The  kingdom  of  Leon  did  not  easily  re- 
cover firom  the  constant   inroads   of 
the  Moor  and  civil  war,  and  to  this  day 
is  far  behind  every  other,  save  Gsstile 
and  Estremaduia,  in  sgriculture,  trader 
etc. 

OharaoierandDreM.— The  Leon- 
eses  differ  considerably  in  character,  ac- 
cording to  the  nature  of  the  different 
regions  which  they  inhabit  Thus  the 
highlanders  and  jxanniuMt  (jpofraimo^  an 
elevated  plateau  or  table-land)  are  tem- 
perate, peaceful,  hard-worldng^  and 
active,  whilst  those  of  the  plains,  and 
more  especially  those  who  live  on  the 
banks  of  the  Orbigo  and  Sil,  are  indo- 


lent, dull-minded,  dirty,  and  boorish. 
On  the  whole  they  are  a  loyal  and 
honest  people^  fond  of  home  (and  what 
home  f),  old  customs  and  costumes,  far 
frt>m  handsome  ;  hospitable  and  Idnd- 
hearted,  but  rude  and  ignorant,  princi- 
pally given  to  pasturing^  arrieritm^ 
and  basking  in  the  sun,  when  it  hap- 
pens to  shine.  There  is  great  poverty 
in  large  and  small  cities,  an  absentee 
nobility,  and  an  overgrown  clergy. 

The  drtu  of  the  Leoneses  is  peculiar. 
The  charro  and  charra  are  the  Leonese 
mi^o  and  mi^a.  The}r  costume  con- 
sists, for  the  men,  of  a  slouched  hat, 
an  embroidered  shirt,  a  short  velvet 
waistcoat  enlivened  with  square  silver 
buttons  and  ribbons,  a  cloth  jacket 
with  velvet  edgings  at  the  elbows,  long 
doth  gaiters  embroidered  beneath  the 
knee,  and  a  broad  leather  belt  round 
the  groins,  large  silver  buckles  in  the 
shoes.  The  cliarra's  dross  is  very  be- 
coming :  a  red  velvet  boddice,  /u^on, 
with  bugles  intricately  worked  into 
different  patterns ;  a  scarlet  or  purple 
petticoat,  mamUo,  embroidered  with 
stars,  birds,  flowers;  a  narrow  apron, 
momdiU,  embroidered  also ;  a  sash  tied 
up  behind ;  a  square,  somewhat  short, 
doth  mantilla,  d  eentrtro^  &stened  by 
a  silver  dasp,  ooretuU;  a  cammba  in  her 
hair;  wrist-cufls  wrought  with  gold ;  a 
gold -worked  handkerchief,  reboeiUo; 
jewels  and  chains  with  coloured  stones 
— all  heirlooms— complete  the  female 
dress,  one  of  the  most  picturesque  in 
Spain. 

Maragaici, — The  origin  of  this  race, 
which  inhabits  the  district  around  As- 
torga,  has  not  been  ascertained.  Some 
writers  derive  it  from  a  Celtiberian  ori- 
gin, others  assert  it  as  a  Berber  descent 
Dozy,  the  learned  Orientalist  of  Ley- 
den,  states  that  they  are  the  remnants 
of  the  Malagoutos,  who  inhabited  Mala- 
Gothia»  a  part  of  the  Oampi-Qothid, 


LEON 


217 


and  who  hj  maniage,  eta,  had  heoome 
Chriatiaiia.  Achronider  calls  them  In 
784,  'Thehig^landera  of  Malacontia.' 
Hany  of  them  held  lands  about  Leon 
and  AstOTga  when  these  two  cities  were 
repeopled,  and  their  priests  had  names, 
aU  or  mostly  purely  Arab,  «uch  as  Ma- 
hamwdi,  the  deacon ;  HiUd,  the  abbot; 
Ahtt,  the  priest,  etc.  They  embraced 
the  nonoonjfomust  doctiinesln  the  8th 
century,  and  rose  against  the  self- 
called  (nthodoz  Arabs.  ('Recherche 
sur  I'Hlst  et  la  litt  de  I'Espagne,' 
2d  ed. ;  Leyden,  1800,  roL  i  p.  18S). 
Mr.  I><»y  finds  great  similarity  between 
their  dress  and  that  of  the  Bwbers  of 
the  present  day.  However,  on  examin- 
ing with  attention  aU  the  difierent 
divsses  worn  by  the  Moors  of  Spain,  in 
earrings  and  pictures  contemporary  of 
their  dominion  in  Spain,  the  pictures 
at  the  Alhambra,  the  bassi-rdieTi  of 
the  CkpUla  Real  at  Ckthedral  of  Gra- 
nada, etc,  one  cannot  find  any  re- 
semblanoe,  and  must  incline,  in  our 
humble  opinion,  to  ascribe  to  them 
another  origin.  Might  they  not  be 
Manri-Gotbi,  and  the  remnants  of  a 
mixture  between  the  Berbers  and  Oothst 
The  Berbers  settled  in  Asturias  more 
than  is  generally  belieyed.  In  784-741 
there  was  not  a  single  Qalidan  village 
that  was  not  in  their  possession ;  even 
in  the  11th  century,  there  were  many 
Bobber  families  living  near  Leon,  and 
mentioned  in  Alfonso  Y.'s  Fuero  de 
Leon,  srt  1st  The  dress  varies  some- 
what at  Zamora  and  Salamanca. 

Agrionlttire  and  Mines.  —  The 
plains — ^tierra  de  campos— of  Palenda, 
Zamora,  and  Yalladolid,  are  among 
the  best  corn-growing  countries  in 
the  world.  In  the  province  of  Leon, 
sheep  are  principally  reared,  and  of 
these  it  formerly  possessed  upwards  of 
896,000  head.  IRie  hills  produce  ex- 
oeUent  timber,  and  orchards^  yielding 


exquisits  cherries,  apples,  etc.,  clothe 
the  slopes  of  the  hilli^  and  stretch 
along  the  banks  of  the  rivers,  in  the 
vicinity  of  towns.  Excellent  cheese 
and  butter  are  made  in  the  hDly  re- 
gions, but  not  at  Leon.  Garbanaoa^ 
good  heady  red  wine^  made  at  Toro^ 
and  mules,  are  also  local  products. 
There  are  some  mines  in  the  reino*  once 
celebrated  tor  the  '  MMulas '  mines  of 
gold  and  vermilion,  which  Pliny  the 
Younger  managed  for  some  time,  and 
said  to  deserve  being  woriced  again. 
The  excavations  are  curious  and  worth 
a  visit  Antimony,  iron,  and  ooal-beds 
are  also  found,  but  yield  unimportant 
quantities.  The  Sn  is  said  to  carry  in 
its  waters  traces  of  gold,  as  the  I^irro 
in  Andalusia^  and  several  other  rivers 
both  in  the  Spanish  and  French  Fyre> 
nees.  The  Northern  and  Palenda 
railways  to  Ponferrada  are  calculated  to 
give  great  impulse  to  trade  and  agri- 
culture, and  devdop  the  great  re- 
sources of  this  country. 

01imat«< — ^We  entreat  tourists  tc^ 
avoid,  above  all  things,  visiting  this 
part  of  Spain  dther  in  summer  or  win- 
ter. In  the  former  period,  the  heat 
and  glare,  the  sandy  roads,  and  furnace 
breath  of  evening,  affect  the  stomach, 
bring  on  cerebral  congestions  and  Leon- 
ese  doctors  —  a  still  severer  Ulness, 
from  which  few  will  recover.  During 
winter  the  wind-blown  plains,  icy 
northern  blssts,  and  roads  (impassable) 
with  snow,  are  enough  to  deter  any  one. 
The  best  months  for  the  vidt  are  April 
and  May,  or  September,  October,  and 
beginning  of  November.  Hie  roads 
are  admirably  engineered  and  well  kept 
The  hills  ought  to  be  vidted,  especially 
during  the  summer,  and  the  beautiful 
scenery  of  the  derras  and  Yiena  An- 
glen  should  not  forget  thdr  rods,  as 
they  will  find  sport  in  the  80,  OMg^ 
Gea,  etc 


218 


LEON. 


Leon. — Oapital  of  province  of  Leon,  I 
pop.  (in  1891)  98M  ;  bishopric  For  | 
details  of  proyinoe  see  page  215.  : 

Boutes  and  OonTeTanooa. — Ist,  i 
TromMadridatBayonnehyndL  From* 
Madrid  hj  the  Palencia  and  Ponferrada 
line.  Distance  from  Palencia  to  Leon, 
76  m. ;  time,  5  hrs. ;  morning  and  even- 
ing trains^  both  at  oonvenient  honrs. 
Fares,  Ist  oL,  49r.  20c  ;  2d  cL,  SCr. 
.  00c  ;  8d  oL,  22r.  14c 

J)ueripH(m  of  JhuU  frcm  Palencia 
to  Leon, — ^The  route  is  not  interesting, 
and  the  towns  are  small,  thinly -peopled, 
and  backward.  /Vineket  de  Nava  is 
close  to  a  most  agae-feeding  lake  There 
is  some  fine  scalpture  by  Alfonso  de 
Bermgete  in  the  church  of  Sta.  Eulalia. 
The  route  now  lies  amid  flat  corn-fields, 
often  inundated  by  the  EsU,  and  pro- 
ducing terdanoi  (ague).  There  are  a 
desolation  and  a  want  of  human  life 
about  these  extensive  windblown  plains 
which  fill  the  mind  with  ennui.  This 
feeling  ii  strengthened  by  the  sombre- 
•  coloured  dress  of  the  peasantry  (brown 
doaks,  black  Jackets,  and  chocolate  [ 
breeches),  and  with  die  expression  of 
their  hceB,  which  is  that  of  monoto- 
nous, vacant,  selfish  concern,  common 
to  all  corn-growing  farmers,  who  reap 
bread  which  the  sun  cultivates,  and 
the  indulgent  Qod  seldom  refuses.  The 
rare  mud  and  straw- built  cottages  do 
not  enliven  the  tableau. 

Sahagun, — So  called  from  the  local 
patron,  St  Tagnnt,  who  was  martyrised 
with  San  Primitive,  108  of  Christ 
Visit  the  celebrated  Abbey,  though  now 
considerably  ruined  and  desolate  It 
was  a  Benedictine  monastery,  founded 
in  872,  and  rebuilt  in  005.  The  church 
was  begun  by  Alfonso  YI.  (1^21),  and 
finished  in  1188.  •  It  was  once  the 
wealthiest  abbey  in  Spain,  possessed 
boundless  territories,  and  had  jurisdic- 
tion over  ninety  convents.    In  the  1 1th 


century  it  reached  the  height  of  its 
fame ;  and  the  wealth,  power,  great 
learning  and  piety  of  its  monks,  made 
it  the  (^uny  of  Spain.  It  was  the  resi- 
dence of  Alfonso  lY .  Queen  C!onstance 
of  Burgundy  built  a  magnificent  palace 
close  to  the  abbey,  at  which  time  the 
city  was  thickly  peopled  with  Burgun- 
diuis^  English,  and  Lombards.  She 
also  built  a  church  in  her  palace,  where 
at  her  death  (1093)  she  was  interred. 
On  the  death  of  Alfonso  lY.  all  went 
amiss.  The  gates  of  the  city  were 
opened  to  the  Aragonese ;  Alfonso  el 
Batallador  sacked  the  abbey  and  con- 
vents ;  dvil  war  broke  out ;  the  Qnflds 
of  Shoemakers,  Tanners,  and  Jugglers 
sided  with  the  burgesses  against  the 
encroaching  monks,  who  were  termed 
'  Gaigantones'  and  'Beberrones ;'  until, 
moved  at  last  by  these  same  monks,  the 
Pope  issued  severe  bulls  against  the 
rebels,  whose  buigesses  and  their  princi- 
pal instigator,  Count  Beltram,  appeared 
before  the  Council  at  Burgos  (1117), 
and  submitted. 

The  chief  curiosides  are  the  retdbh, 
by  Qregorio  Hernandez,  representing 
the  martyrdom  of  the  tutelar;  the  mag- 
nificent marble  sepulchre  and  statue  of 
the  kiiig ;  the  tombs  of  Peranzurez  and 
Bernard,  a  Frenchman,  who  was  the 
first  Archbishop  of  Toledo.  Besides 
Alfonso  lY.,  this  monasteiy  has  been 
the  refbge  and  reHro  of  Bermudo  I. 
(701),  Ramiro  II.  (050),  Sancho  of 
Leon  (10fi7).  The  river  Cea  flows  near 
to  it 

At  Mansilla  the  Esk  is  crossed. 

2d,  From  Oviedo  and  (T^Vm,  w» 
Oviedo, 

Sd,  From  Santiago,  see  Santiago, 
(DiL  for  this  and  above  is  found  at 
offices,  Hotel  del  Norte.) 

4th,  From  or  to  Xa  CkfntMa,  Fmroi, 
by  Aetorga,  Lttgo,  etc.,  see  La  OomMa, 

5th,  For  cities  in  the  old  diligence 


LEON. 


219 


road  from  Yalladolid  to  Leon,  see  VdUo' 
Mid. 

Qeneral  Deaoriptlon. — ^Leon,  once 
the  capital  of  a  powerful  monarchy 
which  extended  from  the  shores  of  the 
Atlantic  to  the  banks  of  the  Rhone,  is 
nothing  now  but  a  laige  agricultural 
village,  silent  and  backward.  It  de- 
rived much  of  its  importance  as  the  seat 
of  the  court,  of  the  emperor  (Alfonso 
TIL,  1186),  whose  courtiers  lorded  it 
over  Kayarre,  Catalufta,  Biscay,  Qas- 
coigne^  etc.;  but,  like  other  capitals 
which  have  had  nothing  else  to  depend 
upon  but  this,  prosperity  and  wealth 
.  may  be  said  to  have  come  and  gone  in 
their  train.  There  are  a  few  noblemen 
who  still  continue  to  reside  here,  in  their 
ancient  and  dilapidated  mansions ;  but 
their  lands  have  mostly  passed  away, 
through  indolence  and  pride,  sometimes 
into  l^e  hands  of  their  own  stewards, 
who  were  better  able  to  manage  them. 
The  scanty  population  is  chiefly  oom- 
posed  of  well-doing  farmers,  petty  em- 
ploy^ maragatos,  and  arrieros.  6e- 
sidea,  as  Leon  is  a  Leritical  dty,  there 
is  a  very  nnme^us  staff  of  capellanes, 
easily  made  out  by  their  cocjced-hats 
and  sotanas,  who  live  upon  the  revenues 
of  tlie  cathedral,  now  much  out  of  pro- 
portion, though  reoently  curtailed,  and 
a  crying  anomaly  in  the  decayed  and 
impoverished  city. 

Leon  maybe  said  to  lie  now  in  torpid 
lethargy,  shrouded  in  the  magnificence 
of  her  past,  and  taking,  it  would  appear, 
an  eternal  siesta  under  the  shade  of  her 
glorious  cathedral  Here  may  be  seen 
tiie  boyero's  creaking  cart  with  spoke- 
less wheels^  which  two  heavy  oxen  drag 
lazily  along;  whilst  the  master  stands 
by  leaning  on  his  lance-shaped  gavilan, 
almost  as  inmiovable  as  an  antique  has- 
ielie(  and  strings  of  velvet-coated  mules, 
eanying  salt  fish,  dodng  as  they  walk 
to  tiie  monotoDOQs  sound  of  jingling 


cascabeles,  and  led  by  wide-breeched 
maragatos  with  umbrella-sized  slouched 
hats,  and  the  early-to-bed  and  early-to- 
rise  labradw  (which  does  nci  seem  to 
make  him  more  wise),  humming  a  s<mg 
as  he  rides  crosswise  on  the  pole  of  his 
plough.  Scenes  like  this  are  all  that  ani- 
matesthe  narrow,  ill-pavedstreets.  Leon 
has  thus  preserved  its  Oothl-Castilian 
character,  with  all  its  eouUur  locale,  old 
habits,  customs,  and  costumes,  and  may 
be  regarded  as  the  key  to  that  terra  m- 
eognUa,  never  properly  investigated, 
which  comprises  the  province  of  Leon, 
Asturias,  and  Galida,  generally  called 
the  Switzerland  of  Southern  Europe. 
The  shrill  whistle  of  the  railway  engine^ 
it  is  to  be  hoped,  will  awake  the  Leon- 
eses,  and  usher  their  mediaval  city  Into 
the  light  and  active  life  of  the  19th  cen- 
tury. Its  very  situation  on  the  high 
road  between  the  ports  of  Qalicia  and 
Asturias,  and  the  granariea  of  the  Gas- 
tiles,  seems  to  invite  prosperity,  and 
point  a  future  rival  to  Yalladolid. 
Manufactories— those  cathedrals  of  mo- 
dem times— might  be  erected  in  these 
plains,  so  abundantly  watered  by  three 
rivers.  But  that  great  curse  of  Spain, 
want  of  population,  though  larger  now 
than  it  has  ever  been,  is  nowhere  felt 
more  than  here.  Thus,  on  a  surface  of 
15,971  square  kH,  the  population  is 
840,244,  of  which  there  are  only  six 
foreign  residents,  and  in  1860,  twelve 
foreigners  travelling  {tnmaewUek), 

The  man  of  pleasure,  and  the  invalid 
will  do  well  to  avoid  tiiis  dull,  gloomj^ 
Goth  town,  but  not  so  the  antiquary 
and  all  real  travellers,  for  whom  Leon 
holds  in  reserve  treasures  of  the  Byzan- 
tine, Gothic,  and  Plateresque  periods  of 
architecture,  besides  which,  its  associa- 
tions with  the  early  history  of  Spain, 
the  aspect  of  its  environs,  the  dress  of 
its  inhabitants,  and  above  all,  its  superb 
cathedral,  one  of  the  finest  in  Europe^ 


220 


LBON. 


•tnnot  fail  to  attract,  and  wOl  amplj 
compenaate  for  anj  inconTenience  at- 
tending this,  detour  from  the  direct 
lines. 

The  town  ii  pleasantly  situated  in  a 
fertOe  plain,- on  the  slopes  of  a  hilL  The 
Torio  and  Yemeaga  flow  from  the  N., 
the  former  watering  its  orchards  on  the 
K,  and  the  latter  girding  it  on  the  W. ; 
and  a  little  below,  to  the  S.,  both  meet 
and  flow  into  the  Esla. 

JTutory.— The  *Cr6nica  Qenersl '  and 
early  writers  state  that  Leon  was  built 
with  the  ruins  of  Lancia,  Maxima  As- 
turin  Urbs  (Dion);  but  it  is  more  gener- 
ally beliered  to  have  been  founded,  or 
at  lesst  enlarged  and  fortified,  by  Tra- 
jan, who  quartered  within  its  walls  the 
7th  Qemina  L^on,  Pia  Felix,  one  of  the 
three  to  which  the  defence  of  Northern 
Spain  had  been  entrusted,  and  assigning 
to  this  one  especially  the  task  of  watch- 
ing and  repressing  the  moyements  of  the 
indomitable  Astures.  The  city  was 
built  up  in  the  shape  of  a  square  Roman 
camp,  with  four  marble  .gates  ooire- 
sponding  to  the  cardinal  points,  and 
hooped  in  by  massive  walls,  which 
linked  together  laige  and  formidable 
cubo  towers.  Under  Adrian,  L^o  be- 
came the  residence  of  the  Augustan 
Legat,  the  President  of  Astnrias  and 
Galida,  included  in  the  Tarrsoonensian 
Province.  In  the  6th  century  the  Suevi 
and  Vandals  vainly  strove  to  bear  rule 
in  the  city  and  to  dispose  of  its  rich 
corn-fields.  It  was  finally  wrested  from 
the  Roman  sway  by  the  Ooth,  Leovigild, 
who  routed  the  Suevi  and  Imperialists, 
and  entered  the  gates  580,  according  to 
Riseo,  but  more  probably  674-77.  He 
changed  the  name  from  Legio  into  Xcvm, 
which  was  his  own,  and  the  dty  (spared 
as  an  exception  by  Witiza)  was  not  dis- 
mantled, as  slmost  all  othen  were  by 
his  insane  decree^  which  paved  the  way 
Car  the  Berber  and  Moor.  Taken  casOy 
by  the  former  in  714,  it  was  rec^tured 


by  Pelayo  after  his  victory  at  Oova- 
donga.  In  84fi  the  Moors  took  it  again, 
and  destroyed  the  city  by  fire.  Re- 
covered once  more  by  Ordofio  I.,  the 
city  was  rebuilt  and  fortified  (866,  ac* 
cording  to  a  Qothic  codex  in  San  Isidoro 
Leon),  and  the  palace  built  on  the  site 
of  the  present  cathedraL  Alfonso  the 
Great  made  this  city  share  with  Oviedo 
the  advantage  of  being  a  court  residence, 
and  was  a  great  benefactor.  Leon  be- 
came the  capital  of  the  monarchy,  and 
residence  of  its  kings  under  Ordofio  II., 
who  built  the  cathedraL  This  second 
dty  was  rased  to  the  ground  by  Al- 
Manssoikr,  998,  sll  the  inhabitants  being 
put  to  death.  Leon  remained  a  scene 
of  desolation  and  a  heap  of  ruins  untfl 
the  reign  of  Alfonso  Y.,  who  rebuilt 
and  repeopled  it.  In  1020,  a  conncQ 
composed  of  prelates,  abbots,  and  nobles 
was  held  to  frame  laws  for  the  adminis- 
tration of  Leon,  Asturias,  and  Galicia, 
which  were  modifications  of  the  former 
Gothic  ones.  Leon  resumed  its  former 
importance,  and  continued  to  be  the 
capital  of  the  Kings  of  Leon.  In  1087 
the  crowns  of  Castile  and  Leon  were 
united  by  the  marriage  between  Ferdi- 
nand I.  and  Dofia  dancha.  A  council, 
held  1090,  declared  among  other  things 
the  substitution  of  the  French  (Latin) 
alphabet  for  the  former  Gothic  charac- 
ters. Separated  and  united  several 
times,  the  crowns  of  Castile  and  Leon 
were  definitely  annexed  by  Alfonso  YII^ 
who  was  prodaimed  emperor  at  the 
Church  of  Sta.  Maria,  May  28, 1186.  In 
his  reign,  Leon  reached  to  the  acme  of 
power  and  importance.  The  emperor 
ruled  over  a  laige  portion  of  the  penin- 
sula, and  was  suzeran  of  the  Kings  of 
Navarre,  Counts  of  Barodona,  Counts 
of  Tolosa,  Barons  of  Gascoigne,  Sdg- 
neors  of  Montpdlier,  etc  Tbe  magni- 
ficent frstivali  that  took  place  at  the 
manisge  of  his  dau^ter  with  Garda  of 
Navarre  are  mentioned  by  the  historians 


LfiON — CATHSDRAL. 


221 


tsf  that  cUj,  who  describe  at  tome 
length,  and  with  great  complacency, 
the  goigeons  bed  placed  in  the  royal 
palace  ^  San  Pelayo  (dose  to  the  ca- 
thedral), with  choin  of  singers  and 
bands  of  musicians  placed  around,  and 
which  did  not  cease  to  sing  and 
play  for  man^  day$  after  the  wedding. 
The  Albigenses  endearonred  to  estab- 
lish themselyes  here  in  the  middle  of 
the  18th  centuiy.  They  had  ah-eiKdy 
made  several  converts,  and  built  a 
ehnroh,  when  the  Bishop  of  Tay,  Don 
Lneas,  preached  a  new  cmsade ;  the 
ehnrch  was  raxed,  and  the  sectarians 
expelled.  The  conquests  by  St  Ferdi- 
nand of  Serille  and  Cordova  diminished 
the  importance  of  Leon  by  drawing  its 
nobility  to  new  and  richer  lands.  At 
the  death  of  Alfonso  XI.,  Don  Pedro 
removed  the  court  to  Seville^  and  Leon 
became  a  mere  province  of  the  new  and 
laiger  kingdom.  But  after  it  had 
ceased  being  the  capital,  the  city  still 
preserved  many  privileges,  and  hi  the 
Cortes  of  1406-7,  its  procivadores  were 
entitled  to  the  seat  next  to  Burgos,  and 
had  the  precedence  over  Toleda  Leon 
took  part  in  the  riidng  of  the  Comuni- 
dades  on  hearing  that  its  proposal  for 
holding  the  Cortes  of  Osstile  here  was 
rejected.  The  dty  was  then  the  prey  of 
feudal  differences  and  fiutionsy  headed 
by  the  two  great  rival  Leonese  houses 
of  the  I^mas  and  Guzmanea,  though 
Sandoval  assumes  that  the  priests  and 
the  Jews  had  the  greater  part  'de  estos 
alborotosL' 

8ighU.-l.  Cathedral,  San  Marcos, 
San  Isidonv  minor  churches.  2.  WaUs, 
gates,  streets^  and  prout-bits.  8.  Private 
houses. 

Ciik^nL — ITidoriaU  NoHee.  ~  The 
set  of  Leon  is  one  of  the  earliest  in 
Spain,  and  there  is  mention  of  an 
episcopate  as  far  back  as  the  8d  cen- 
tury. It  ii  sxe0rto->that  is,  subject  to 
no  primate — a  privily  confirmed  in 


1105  by  Pope  Pasqual  II.  It  has  been 
patronised  by  several  kings,  especially 
by  Ordofto  II.,  but  it  has  not^  like 
Toledo  and  Seville,  been  distinguished 
by  the  power,  munificence,  or  learning 
of  its  prelates  ;  the  principal  have  been 
Bishops  St  Froylan  (900),  San  Alvito 
(1067),  Felayo  (1078),  ICanrique  de  Lara 
(1199). 

Leon  has  possessed  three  cathedrals. 
Of  the  first,  built  outside  the  town,  there 
are  no  vestiges.  The  second  was  erected 
from  its  ruins  on  the  site  of  the  palace 
of  Ordo&o  II.,  who  gave  it  up  for  that 
purpose.  This  palace  was  built  on  the 
eastern  side  of  tht  dty,  with  the  ma- 
terials and  on  dteof  the  Boman  Baths. 
The  cathedral  was  msgnificent,  accord- 
ing to  £1  Tudense's  and  Sampiro's  de- 
scriptions, but  was  mosUy  rased  by  Al 
Mansso6r.  Although  it  was  partiy  re- 
built by  Bishop  Froylan,  and  newly  con- 
secrated and  embelUshed  by  Pelayo^  in 
1078  (his  will  contains  the  history  of 
the  Leonese  see  and  that  of  the  second 
cathedral's  repairs),  still,  owing  pro- 
bably to  the  ruinous  state  in  which  the 
edifice  must  have  been  left  by  the 
Moors,  and  also  to  the  increase  of  the 
dty,  it  was  dedded  to  build  a  new  one. 
The  foundations  of  the  existing  cathe- 
dral of  Leon  were  laid  by  Bishop  Ma- 
rique  de  Lara.  The  precise  date  is  not 
known,  but  it  lies  between  1196  and 
1200.  The  name  of  the  architect  who 
designed  or  began  it  has  not  been  ascer- 
tained ;  but  from  a  careful  examination 
of  early  writers,  and  the  opinions 
emitted  by  the  most  trustworthy  critics^ 
we  indine  to  think  it  wss  Pedro  Ceb- 
rian,  who  was,  a  doubtless  fact,  maestro 
mayor  of  the  works  of  the  cathedral  in 
1176— that  is  some  twenty-five  years 
before  the  works  began.  He  was  suc- 
ceeded in  this  capacity  by  Maese 
Enrique,  who  died  1277.  The  works 
went  on  very  dowly,  from  want  of 
funds^  as  we  gather  from  a  brief  issued 


222 


LEON— CATHEDRAL. 


bj  the  Lngdim^niis  CoancO,  held  in 
1298,  which  dedaree  to  the  fiuthftil 
that  without  more  alms  the  works  can- 
not proceed,  owing  to  the  magnificence 
of  those  already  begun.  We  also  know 
that  about  1430  the  works  of  the 
edifice  were  being  carried  on  by  Quillen 
de  Rohan,  or  Ridan,  to  whom  the 
upper  portions  of  the  naTss  and  the 
galleries,  'auditos,' have  been  ascribed, 
and  who  was  employed  by  Henrique 
TIL 's  confeoor.  Bishop  Cusanxa.  Juan 
de  .Badijoz,  whose  knowledge  and  prac- 
tice of  florid  Gothic  and  Reviral  were 
equally  great,  completed  the  cathedral 
about  the  year  1512.  Somewhat  re- 
cently portions  of  the  southern  tnmsept 
haye  been  pulled  down  to  sare  it  tram 
impending  ruin ;  and,  although  repairs 
have  begun,  it  will  require  time,  great 
expense,  and,  what  is  still  more  d^cult 
to  find,  an  Mrchitect  to  build  them  up 
again  as  they  were  before. 

lU  StyU  and  iVvporfumi.  —  This 
cathedral,  smaller  than  those  of  Toleda, 
Seville,  and  Burgos,  is  a  magnificent 
example  of  the  Early  Pointed  style  in 
aU  its  simplicity,  elegance,  and  light- 
ness, not  independent  of  strength.  Bat 
from  the  dates  given  above  it  will 
naturally  be  seen  that  it  must  needs 
contain  specimens  of  the  different 
periods  of  Gothic  architecture  which 
prevailed  in  Spain  during  the  three 
centuries  of  its  construction.  Indeed, 
the  Revival  is  also  represented  here, 
and  the  dawning  Plateresque  has  left 
some  traces,  not  all  indifferent.  Its 
general  characteristics  are — harmony 
between  the  parts,  the  original  plan 
having  never  been  deviated  from.  In 
lightness  and  elegance  it  stands  un- 
rivalled in  Spain,  and  seems  to  have 
sprung  into  the  air  at  the  touch  of  a 
Ikiry's  wand.  There  is  boldness  in 
the  outlines,  loftiness  and  freedom, 
great  constructive  beauty,  absence  of 
ornamentation,  variety  of  forms  and 


wonderftil  masonry,  especially  at  a  time 
when  the  art  of  cutting  stone  was  in  its 
infancy. 

Mar.  Siculus,  in  his  'De Rebus  Hisp. 
Memor.,'  gives  the  preference  to  Leon 
over  aU  the  other  cathedrals.  *  Kam 
etsi  templum,  quod  etate  nostra  civitas 
Hispalensis  ecQficat,  alia  omnia  mag- 
nitiiiine,  pnestat ;  siToletanum  divitiis, 
omamentis  et  specularibus  fenestris  est 
illustrius ;  si  denique  Compostellanum 
(i.«.  Santiago)  fortioribus  sdificiiB,  et 
Sancti  Jacob!  miraoulis,  et  rebus  aliis 
memorabilius  est,  Legionense  tamen 
artificio  mirabili,  meo  quidem  Judido, 
omnibus  est  anteponendum.*  Bishop 
Tngillo,  in  his  'History  of  the  Ca- 
thedral of  Leon,'  compares  it  to  the 
Duomo  of  Milsn,  but  adds,  it  is  a 
Phosnix,  and  supersedes  even  that 
marvel.  In  his  opinion,  the  architect 
who  designed  it  was  neither  Spanish 
nor  Italiim,  'for,'  he  says,  'were  he 
either,  he  would  have  built  in  the  usual 
style  adopted  in  these  provinces.' 
There  is  little  doubt  that  its  architect, 
whatever  his  nsme,  was  influenced  by 
the  examples  of  the  French  cathedrals 
of  that  time^  and  in  plan,  detail,  light- 
ness^ character  of  sculpture,  it  is 
thoroughly  French.  Compare  Beau- 
vais,  Amiens,  and  St  Denis  Cathedrals 
to  this  one,  and  tlie  similarity  will  at 
once  occur.  The  slender  airiness  of  its 
construction  is  so  great  as  to  make  it 
difficult  to  perceive  how  the  edifice  can 
stand,  unless  by  a  mirade,  as  the  walls 
are  almost  transparent,  and  yet  are  106 
fL  high  f  Tlie  secret  of  its  strength 
lies,  however,  in  the  deep  and  broad 
foundations,  made  with  laige  boulders, 
and,  probably,  cemented  lime,  which, 
in  Spain  becomes  petrified.  This  ca- 
thedral does  not  contain  any  particular 
gem  within  its  waUs,  as  most  do ;  no 
octagon  like  that  of  Ely's,  no  chapel 
like  that  of  King's  College  at  Cam- 
bridge,  no  Henry  VI  I. 's  Chapel  like 


LEON— :OAXH£DRAL. 


223 


that  atWestmiiiBter ;  or  even  in  Spain, 
the  Grocero  of  Burgos,  Preabyteiy  of 
Toledo,  eto.  The  source  of  its  beauty 
lies  mainly  in  the  music  of  its  structure^ 
as  the  masses  may  be  likened  to  notes, 
all  harmonising  to  form  a  sublime 
hymn  of  lore  and  peace,  composed  by 
the  creature  to  his  Creator. 

Mcuonry. — The  walls  are  generally 
8)  ft  thick  (in  some  places  only  a  foot), 
and  the  stone  employed  is  of  a  creamy, 
wann  colour,  of  great  consistency,  fine 
grain,  and  easily  carved.  They  are 
built  of  rubble,  faoed  with  stone  on  both 
sides.  Externally  it  is  all  of  stone. 
The  honuigon,  a  peculiarly  fine  sort  of 
plaster,  was  used  for  the  esplanade  from 
which  it  rises. 

Exterior. — ^The  building  hastheshape 
of  a  rectangular  parallelogram,  from 
whose  straight  line  the  high  chapel  de- 
viates on  the  E.  side,  so  as  to  describe 
an  arch  of  a  circle  inside,  and  outside 
half  a  duodecagon.  It  rises  isolated  in 
a  spacious  square,  the  Plaxo  Mayor,  the 
character  of  whose  brick  houses,  ar- 
cades, and  Fountain  of  Neptune,  which 
dates  1789,  is  quaint,  though  not  in 
keeping.  Obserre  the  platform  around 
it  encloeed  by  chains,  with  pedestals 
and  sculptured  vases  and  children.  A 
good  view  can  be  obtained  from  the 
Plasa,  standing  close  to  the  fountain. 

Flaifade$, — The  principal  one  is  to  the 
W.,  and  is  seen  from  the  Plaza.  The 
iron  railing  round  this  fafade  dates 
1800,  but  there  has  disappeared,  among 
other  relics  of  the  past,  an  inscription 
of  the  16th  century,  placed  on  a  pillar 
facing  the  front  door,  and  erroneously 
transcribed  in  Mr.  Ford*s  Handbook. 
It  ran  thus : — 

Sbt  licet  HiqMuiits  ditissumi  pufchraque  teaqila 
Hoc  tamen  egrcgiis  omiiibiis  utt  pritu. 

This  fa^e  is  picturesque,  efiective, 
and  spacious,  and  is  an  epitome  of  the 
biatoiy  of  the  building;  bnring  vestiges 


of  its  different  periods,  but  mostly  be- 
longing to  the  earliest  It  is  composed 
of  a  grand  and  effective  porob  formed 
by  five  ogival  arches,  the  three  largest 
being  portals,  and  flanked  by  two 
towers ;  the  latter  are  different  in  sise 
and  styles  and  mar  the  general  effect 
The  N.  one  is  small,  severe  in  style, 
somewhat  heavy,  unomamented,  and 
of  two  stages ;  Uie  windows  of  the  first 
being  circular,  those  of  the  second 
slightly  pointed,  and  crowned  with  a 
massive  octagon  steeple,  clumsily  de- 
corated. This  tower,  from  its  style,  we 
may  ascribe  to  the  early  part  of  the 
14th  century.  The  S.  tower  is  of  the 
16th  century,  light,  lofty,  forming  five 
stages,  of  the  Dedine.  The  open-worked 
steeple  is  very  elegant,  rises  freely  from 
the  square  ^tform,  and  looks  like  a 
tent  made  of  guipure.  On  this  tower 
and  at  different  heights  are  the  words, 
'Maria,  Jesus  Xps.  Deus  Homo,'  and 
'Ave  Maria,  gratia  plena,  Dnus.  tecum.' 
It  is  called  the  dock-tower.  This 
facade  is  composed  of  three  stages ;  the 
fint  is  formed  by  three  ingresses^  with 
double  arches  forming  a  very  sharp 
ogive,  the  central  being  higher  and 
wider  than  the  rest  These  constitute 
porches  formed  by  three  decrescent 
and  concentric  deeply-recessed  arches, 
sharply  pointed,  ^e  sides  within  the 
porches  are  lined  with  canopied  ^ches, 
three  on  a  row,  the  pedestals  of  which 
sally  at  right  angles,  springing  from  the 
basement.  There  are  evident  vestiges 
of  the  influence  of  the  Bysantine  Trim- 
sition  school  in  the  forms  and  propor- 
tions of  the  small  pillars,  the  leaf  onia- 
ment  of  the  capitals,  the  handling  of 
flower-decoration,  and  not  less  in  the 
quaint  original  treatment  of  the  large 
cabbage-lcMhf  and  stem  forming  the  eyes, 
mouth,  and  nose  of  the  grotesque  satyrs 
or  mascarons.  These  are  all  ezamfdes 
of  the  12th  century.  The  statues,  forty 
in  all,  belong  to  the  second  Gothio 


224 


LEON — CATHEDRALb 


period ;  thejr  are  inde  in  ezecation  and 
belong  still  to  the  Byzantine  manner, 
bnt  thej  deseire  dose  attention,  on  ac- 
connt  of  the  costumes,  composition, 
and  meaning.  Those  in  the  central 
porch  am  the  best,  and  represent  kings 
and  prelates^  yirgins  and  monks.  Those 
in  the  porch  next  to  the  N.  tower  are 
eariier  still,  and  inferior,  but  interesting 
for  the  composition.  They  represent 
several  kings  and  a  queen  holding 
scales  and  a  sword,  on  the  blade  of 
which  the  inscription,  '  Justitia  est  uni- 
eniqne  dare  quod  snum  est.'  Here  was 
held,  in  the  18th  century,  no  doubt,  an 
open,  public  court  of  appeal ;  and  wh^t 
confirms  this  supposition  are  the  words, 
'Loons  appellationis,'  in  Gothic  char- 
aoten^  placed  on  a  pillar  bearing  the 
shields  of  Oastile  and  Leon,  whUe  in 
the  background  a  king  is  seated  and 
passing  Judgment  The  central  door- 
way is  divided  by  a  low  pillar  support- 
ing an  efBgy  of  the  'Viigen  Blanca,' 
tiie  French  Notre  Dame  des  Neiges,  en- 
closed within  glassy  and  dating  the 
eariy  part  of  the  15th  century,  to  which 
are  attached  indulgences  granted  by 
Bishop  Oabesa  de  Vaca  (Front  de  Bceuf) 
in  1486  to  the  faithful  who  will  pray  to 
her.  Over  the  principal  portal  is  an 
alto-relieTo,  most  probably  painted  for- 
meriy,  and  representing  the  Last  Judg- 
ment, a  work  which  may  be  ascribed  to 
the  14th  century.  On  the  archivolts^ 
and  to  complete  this  scene,  are  groups 
reprwentin^  on  one  side,  the  blessed 
and  all  the  phases  of  celestial  bliss, 
whilst  the  other  represents  the  wicked, 
personified  by  grotesque  figures,  in 
every  possible  quaint  attitude  and  di-, 
versity  of  aspect,  and  a  wild  Dantesque 
mob  of  urchin  fiends  wearing  the  local 
montaras.  Over  the  S.  portal  Is  an- 
other alto-relievo  representing  the  Vir- 
gin's Transito^  or  death,  and  her 
Coronation  iii  heaven :  the  arohivolts 
here  bear  choirs  of  angeU  and  virgins 


seated  under  canopes.  The  relidf  ovef 
the  N.  portal,  which  is  the  earliest,  la 
divided  into  four  compartments,  repre- 
senting scenes  from  Scripture.  The 
doors  Qiemselves  are  carved,  and  repre- 
aent  (the  central)  crosses  and  devices 
in  the  plateresque  style ;  tlie  N.,  the 
Death  and  Resurrection,  and  the  S., 
very  plain,  is  decorated  with  ogival 
patterns.  Over  these  ingresses  runs  a 
balustraded  gallery  or  parapet  with 
open-work  decorated  pinnacles  of  the 
18th  century.  Over  it,  and  within 
an  eariy  o^ve,  observe  a  glorious 
decorated  rose-window.  Above  it  and 
orowningthe  upper  stage,  which  belongs 
to  the  plateresque,  and  is  the  work  of 
Juan  de  Badigoz,  is  a  large  relievo  re- 
presenting the  Annunciation,  with  the 
vase  of  liliea,  usually  placed  in  all 
cathedrals^  as  most  of  them  are  de- 
dicated to  the  Virgin,  and  emblcmatio 
of  her  purity.  T^e  plateresque  work 
above  is  formed  by  two  small  turrets  or 
lanterns  with  triangular  points^  and 
connected  by  an  elegant  gallery.  Be- 
tween the  lantems  rises  a  triangular 
retablo  with  a  rose  in  the  centre,  flawed 
by  Ionic  piUarets  and  three  statuettes. 
Chiginslity  and  great  lightness  are  pro- 
duced in  this  facade  by  the  vacant 
spaces  left  between  the  messes,  the  im- 
pulsive force  of  the  arches  of  the  central 
nave  against  the  towers  being  checked 
by  the  light  and  airy  flying  buttresses. 
The  niches  on  the  buttresses  flanking 
the  towers  have  never  been  filled  up ; 
they  are  thin,  and  rise  up  to  above  the 
root  The  latter  consisted  formerly  of 
two  slopes,  or  vertientes. 

Sauikem  /Vifiuts.— This  elegant  fii- 
fade  forms  three  stages;  the  first  or 
lower  one  is  crowned  by  an  open-worked 
gallery,  and  composol  of  three  very 
acutely  pointed  ingresses ;  the  centi^ 
larger,  and  the  arohivolts  decorated 
wiUi  relievo  ornaments,  simulated  arch- 
lets^  and  statuettes,  all  the  woric  of  the 


LEON— CATHSDRAL. 


225 


beginning  of  the  16th  century.    The 
aeeond  stage  was  formerly  compoeed  of 
two  large  ogiral  windowa  and  a  rose 
abore ;  bat  haTing  needed  repairs,  this 
portion  was  modernised.    The  third  or 
upper  stage  is  of  the  ReriTal ;  there  is 
little  scnlptnre  here,  and  most  of  the 
statnes  are  wanting.    Obserre  the  colos- 
sal one  of  San  IVoylan,  and  over  the 
central  portal  the  fimenl  with  monks 
and  priests,  probably  of  the  bishop,  who 
is  buried  within  the  walled-in  door  to 
the  left    Close  to  the  portal  to  the 
rif^t  are  some  statnes,  representing  a 
Virgin    and    Child,    the   Magi,    and 
shidds,  mde,  and  apparently  earlier 
than   the    16th   century,    etc.      The 
Northern  fiifade  is  rery  elegant  and 
richly  decorated,  and  belongs  to  the 
BeriTaL    It  is  nnfortonately  blocked 
up  by  houses,  and  cannot  be  seen  to 
adTantage.    Obserre  the  tzmnsept  rose- 
window.     The  E.  fiifade  is  not  inter- 
esting ;  it  belongs  to  the  Gothic,  and  is 
ribbed  wi^  flying  bnttrosses  and  pin- 
nacles of  ezodlent  design,  most  of  fili- 
gree open-work.    Obsore  the  exterior 
of  the  hi|^  chapel,  with  its  polygonal 
shap^  the  piniuMded   buttresses,  the 
lugi  elegant   windows,   open-worked 
derestory.    A  good  Tiew  of  the  exterior 
of  the  transept  is  obtained  from  the 
doistera.    On  8.  side  of  the  edifice  are 
the  apses  of  the  Chapels  del  Trasaltar, 
with    decorated   windows,    busts    of 
bishops,  mascarons,  etc.,  of  Tery  early 
style.    The  exterior  of  sacristy  is  pla- 
teres<|ue. 

InUrior.-^U  is  dirided  into  three 
nares,  as  &r  as  the  transept,  whence  fire 
nares  direrge^  two  of  which  occupy  the 
length  of  the  arcades  panllel  to  the  hi^ 
altar,  and  form  the  Chapels  of  K.  8.  del 
Dado  and  Kativity,  sweeping  gracefhlly 
round  the  preabytery  ;  the  proportions 
are  808  ft  long,  128  ft  wide^  and  126  ft 
hi^  Obserre  the  loftiness  and  bold- 
MSB  of  the  central  nare  and  transept^ 


the  elliptical  form  of  the  trMsltar,  tiie 
great  dmplidty  prerailini^  and  mark 
the  early  style  of  the  Gothic  The 
nares  are  dirkMl  by  cgiral  sveltearohes. 
The  lateral  nares  rise  to  the  height  of 
the  first  stsge  of  the  prindpal  (W.)  fii- 
9ads^  but  are  lower  than  the  centeal  one, 
while  the  lateral  waUs  of  the  latter,  with 
their  thinness  and  open-work,  are  more 
like  hangings  jdaced  to  keep  the  air  out 
and  prerent  it  putting  out  the  gilt  and 
sUrer  lamps  that  li^t  up  the  altara. 
An  the  interior  is  marked  by  great  unity 
of  execution,  and  dates  of  the  14th  cen- 
tury. Eleren  pillars  on  each  side,  formed 
each  by  groups  of  three  shafta,  support 
the  ten  ranlts  of  the  prindpal  nare  be- 
tween the  entranoe  and  the  presbyteiy ; 
the  basements  are  circular ;  the  shafts 
and  pillaif  are  plain,  and  rise  up  boldly 
into  the  air  to  meet  the  springing  of  the 
arches,  which  bend  with  exquisite  de- 
gance.  The  capitals  bebng  to  the  By- 
santine  transition  style.  Orer  the  arches, 
which  serre  to  connect  the  central  with 
the  lateral  nares,  runs  all  round  the 
church  an  dcgant  triforium.  Orer  this 
galleiy  the  waUs  are  pierced  by  large 
windows,  40  ft  high,  with  superb  and 
unriraUed  stained  glass ;  each  is  com- 
posed of  six  arches  dosed  within  the 
main  external  one,  and  decorated  with 
three  roses  in  the  racant  spaces,  and 
resting  on  octsgon  pillarets.  The  under 
tier,  now  bricked  up,  and  indifierently 
painted  with  figures  and  scrolls,  ii  sup- 
posed by  some  to  hare  been  the  con- 
tinuation of  the  upper  tier ;  and  if  thus^ 
which  reminds  us  somewhat  of  the 
Salute  Chapdle  at  Paris,  the  waUs  of 
this  unique  edifice  must  hare  been  one 
Uaae  of  c^orieudy  painted  f^ass.  The 
waUs  of  tiie  lateral  nares  are  not  railed 
in  to  form  chapds,  as  is  generally  the 
case  in  Spain  ;  the  caintals  of  the  piers 
hare  been* absurdly  coloured,  not  reiy 
long  sgo,  with  that  yellowish  wmtrtde 
dye  whkh  still  diafigurss  so  ma^ 


226 


LEON— CATHEDRAL. 


df  the  churches  in  Belgiom  and  the 
South  of  France.  The  reet  of  the  in- 
terior has  likewise  been  cruelly  white- 
washed, and  ochre  and  imitation  jasper 
deface  whole  portions.  The  naves  are 
narrow,  although  their  width  is  appar- 
ently absorbed  by  the  great  height ;  the 
lateral  ones,  and  the  central  even,  as  far 
as  the  former's  own  height,  may  be  as- 
cribed to  the  architects  of  Uie  early  pert 
of  the  14th  century,  the  basement  cer- 
tainly belonging  to  the  ISth.  The  gal- 
leries and  upper  portions  of  them,  and 
the  remainder  of  the  interior,  wiUi  the 
exception  of  the  very  early  massive  but- 
tresses round  the  high  chapel,  are  of  the 
beginning  of  the  16th  century,  the 
galleries  being  the  work  of  Badigos,  be- 
ginning of  Uie  16th.  The  choir,  as 
usual,  blocks  up  the  central  nave^  thus 
diminishing  the  general  effect  This 
interior,  one  of  the  most  elegant  in  Eu- 
rope, stands  unrivalled  in  Spain  for 
beauty  of  constructive  ornamentation, 
unity  of  design,  and  proportions. 

High  Chapa  and  AUwr.—The  walls 
round  the  presbytery  are  all  open- 
worked.  On  each  side  of  the  altar, 
which  is  churrigueresque,  are  buried 
Saints  Alvito  and  Froylan.  Observe  the 
exquisite  uma  and  custodia,  and  the 
tabernacle,  all  silver,  with  statuette  of 
San  Froylan,  classical  pillars,  and  effi- 
gies of  saints.  The  former  retablo  was 
removed  in  1788,  and  substituted  by  the 
present  marble  transparency  by  Qavilan, 
the  nephew  of  Tom^  who  was  the  in- 
ventor of  those  abominations.  On  the 
sides  are  marble  tombs  of  bishops  Alvito 
and  Pelayo.  The  high  chapel  is  con- 
nected with  the  choir  by  severs]  fine 
r^fof  placed  on  the  sides,  across  the 
tranwpt 

Choir. — Dates  the  end  of  16th  cen- 
tury. The  lower  row  of  stalls  is  deco- 
rated with  busts  of  saints.  The  upper 
row  dates  1468-81,  and  is  the  earliest. 
They  were  ordered  snd  put  up  by  Bishop 


Veneris,  who  contributed  so  much  to 
the  marrisge  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabella. 
Observe  the  full-length  statues  of  apo* 
sties  and  saints^  canopied  by  porched 
arches  with  arabesque  open-work  and 
scenes  from  Scripture ;  the  best  speci- 
mens aro  those  near  the  entrance^  at  the 
sides  of  which  observe  the  genealogy  ol 
Christ,  the  Fall  of  the  Rebel  Angels, 
Visitation  and  Descent  to  Limbo,  Crea- 
tion of  Woman,  etc.  They  are  by  Ro- 
drigo  Aleman. 

Trtueoro, — It  is  most  elaborately 
sculptured  in  white  alabaster  and  gold, 
with  relievos  representing  the  Adora- 
tion, Nativity,  Annunciation,  and  Nati- 
vity of  St  John ;  the  two  former  on  left, 
and  the  latter  on  right  At  the  comer 
are  statues  of  SS.  Peter  and  Paul  This 
plateresque  work  is  very  beautiful,  and 
deserves  attention. 

TrataUar, — Here  is  the  tomb  of  Or- 
doho  II.,  ob.  923,  the  founder  of  the 
former  cathedral  .  The  mausoleum  is 
curious,  and  dates  16th  century.  The 
king  lies  at  full  length  in  his  robes,  a 
globe  in  his  hand,  and  a  dog  at  his  feet 
On  his  side  is  a  herald  holding  a  shield, 
on  which  are  painted  a  lion  (leon)  and 
Moors  slain.  The  other  figures  are  a 
herald  with  a  scroll,  'aspice,'  etc,  and 
a  monk  (tliought  by  some  to  be  the 
architect  of  the  first  cathedral)  in  black 
snd  white,  pointing  to  a  book,  whose 
subject  is  'the  duties  of  man  towards 
God,  the  king,  and  his  neighbour. '  Two 
lions  support  the  ogival  arch.  Below 
the  niche  are  relievos — Death  of  Christ, 
painted  and  estofado,  and  of  a  style 
prior  to  rest  of  the  mausoleum.  Between 
this  tomb  and  those  more  indifferent  of 
SS.  Alvito  and  Froylan,  the  Walls  are 
painted  with  frescoes,  mostly  barbar- 
ously retouched  snd  defaced.  One  re- 
presents the  Burial  of  Christ,  and  the 
other  an  Ecce  Homo,  crucified  a  second 
time  in  1884  by  a  Leonese  artist  The 
tombs  close  by  of  San  Pelayo  and  Sao 


LBON — CATHEDRAL. 


227 


AMto  tn  nninteresting  and  modem  ; 
the  fonner  vi  OnBoo-R<muuL  Obeerre 
near  to  it  a  Gothic  arch  richly  decorated 
with  foliage  and  fruit ;  that  of  San  Al- 
TitOy  whoeo  body  was  placed  here  in 
1566,  is  plateresqne,  and  sabstitnted  for 
the  fonner,  which  was  a  magnificent 
piece  of  silver  workmanship  which  the 
French,  who  preferred  in  those  oMssthe 
eontenant  to  tiie  eonUnu,  carried  reiigi- 
onsly  away. 

TrantepL — It  is  broad,  and  lighted 
by  two  rose-windows.  The  dmborio 
(cupola),  placed  at  the  intersection  of 
transept  and  central  nare,  rests  on  four 
massive  piers,  and  was  raised  in  the 
18th  century.  The  Corinthian  pillars 
and  hexagon  lantern,  the  medallions 
with  busts  decorating  the  media  naran- 
ja,  and  the  statues  of  the  doctors  of  the 
Church,  are  out  of  keeping  with  the 
uniform  style  of  the  edifice. 

Chapbls. — De  StuUiago.^Thia  spa- 
cious, lofty,  and  moot  elegant  chapel  is 
of  the  Gothic  style  of  middle  of  15th 
century.  It  is  the  finest  in  the  cathe- 
draL  Obeerre  the  lofty  groined  roof 
with  florid  tracery,  the  very  bold  and 
most  elegant  arches,  the  richly  orna- 
mented cornices,  springs  of  arches.  The 
windows  to  E.  with  glorious  stained 
ghMS,  representing  twelve  virgins,  twelve 
apostles,  and  twelve  bishops.  The 
greens,  reds,  and  yellows  are  admirable. 
Connoisseurs  will  do  well  to  notice  all 
their  details  with  care,  as  they  are,  per- 
haps, the  finest  in  Spain.  Oboerve  also 
the  basements  which  support  the  roof; 
they  are  formed  by  grotesque  composi- 
tions, mascarons,  satyrs,  angels,  quaint 
scenes  from  Scripture— Queen  of  She- 
bah,  Samson  and  the  lion,  a  man  strug- 
gling with  a  serpent,  a  fat  monk  with  a 
book,  and  the  satirical  inscription, 
'Legere,nonintcl]igere.'  The  entrance 
Is  formed  by  a  fine  plateresque  arch  with 
foliage,  etc  The  altar  and  oigan  are 
ehorrigueresque.  J\r.^.— On  the  sides  of 


the  altar  have  been  temporarily  placed 
the  silver  urns,  admirably  worked,  con- 
taining bones  of  SS.  Froylan  and  Alvito, 
which  we  have  described  as  being  at  the 
sides  of  the  high  altar,  as  these  are  their 
appointed  places.  The  body  of  the 
former  was  the  olject  of  iht  pious 
oovetousness  of  different  churches  and 
cities,  all  of  which  claimed  it  on  differ- 
ent pleas.  The  dispute  was  curiously 
settled  in  a  manner  that  would  have 
pleased  Sancho  Panza,  whose  sentences 
at  Barataria  it  somewhat  resembled. 
According  to  Florez,  '  Espafia  Sagrada,* 
voL  zzxiv.  p.  194,  the  body  was  placed 
on  a  mule,  which  was  allowed  to  cany 
it  where  it  liked,  and  most  |nt>bably  the 
stable  was  not  far  from  the  church. 

Oapilia  de  Nuettra  SMUfra  del  Dado 
{Our  Lady  of  ihe  i>ie.)~  Founded  by 
Bishop  Manrique,  and  called  otherwise 
until  a  miracle  ascribed  to  the  image  of 
the  Virgin,  gave  it  its  present  name. 
A  gambler  having  invoked  the  Viigin's 
intercession,  was,  notwithstanding,  most 
unlucky  in  his  play,  snd  not  having 
the  fortitude  of  another  great  gambler 
of  antiquity,  did  not  say,  '  Alea  jacta 
est,'  but,  fuU  of  revenge,  flung  his  dice 
{dado)  at  the  Virgin,  and  hit  the  In- 
fant's face,  which  instantly  bled  pro- 
fusely. This,  minus  the  miracle,  is  a 
conunon  occurrence  among  the  lower 
classes  in  Spain  and  Italy,  who  some- 
times stone  and  strike  their  patron 
saints  whenever  they  do  not  comply 
with  their  wishes,  snd  caress,  thank, 
and  make  presents  to  them  when  the 
contrary  happens 

X  Santa  Riu  4«  Cam 

JSo  le  taofo  de  rttar, 
Poes  le  pedl  on  impoeible, 

X  BO  lo  <|uuo  otof|ar. 

The  founder's  tomb  is  indifferent;  the 
hiscription  runs  thus  : — 
Pneeol  Manncut  iaoet  hie  ratiooit  wmiam. 

CapiUa  del  PriviUgiada. — ^Veiy  fine 
painted  glassy  subject  the  Nativity,  nd 


328 


LEON— CATHEDRAL. 


datiiig  1665.  The  walls  are  painted 
with  frescoes  on  gilt  backgrounds, 
Tery  early,  and  with  figores ;  amongst 
thera  obserre  one  on  the  right  holding 
a  model  of  this  cathedral,  probably 
meant  as  the  portrait  of  the  architect 

OajfiUa  de  San  Pedro.^Uem  is 
buried  Bishop  Amaldo  (ob.  1284),  a 
friend  of  St  Ferdinand's,  and  a  great 
persecutor  of  the  Albigenses. 

OapiUa  del  Salvador, — Opposite  to 
tomb  of  Ordofto  IL,  a  tomb  of  the 
great  benefactress  of  Leon,  Dofta 
Sanoha  (1 1  th  oentury).  Her  generosity 
to  the  priests  wss  unlimited,  for  which 
she  was  murdered  by  her  nephew  and 
heir,  a  crime  for  which  he  was  torn  to 
deaUi  by  horses.  The  whole  scene  of 
this  expiation  is  represented  on  the 
sculpture^  and  put  up  as  a  salutary 
lesson. 

Cfapilla  dsl  Naeitniinto. — Founded 
by  Bishop  Pedro  Oabeza  de  Yaca,  an 
illustrious  name  in  Spain,  16th  century. 
Obserre  here  the  tomb  of  Bishop  Don 
Rodrigo  (ob.  1532)  for  its  style,  which 
belongs  to  the  Byzantine  of  Transition. 
The  dbort  i^llars  are  strictly  Byzantine. 
Notice  the  relievos,  representing  the 
funeral  procession  of  the  bishops  with 
the  cross,  incense-bearers,  hired  weepers, 
dressed  in  monastic  habits^  '  as  whole 
oonrents  were  wont  to  pour  out  their 
pious  inhabitants  to  form  processions 
at  the  funerals  of  the  great '  (Pennant, 
London. )  This  custom  has  been  found 
in  all  countries.  (See  Captain  Cook's 
'First  Voyage,'  book  ill  chap,  zii  ; 
Feydeaux's  important  work  on  '  Monu- 
ments Fun^bres,  etc,  des  Anciens,' 
etc.)  The  custom  preraUs  eren  now 
in  portions  of  Asturias,  Oalida,  and 
Ireland  we  belieTB.  Behind  the  con* 
fessional  of  the  penitendariA  is  another 
eariy  tomb,  with  a  similar  procession  of 
monks,  kneeling  and  weeping 

CZoiiffrs.— They  are  Gothia,  though 
with  an  admixture  of  the  platsresque 


introduced  in  the  16th  oentniy.  The 
roof  is  plateresque,  and  heavily  orna- 
mented with  angels'  heads  within 
wings,  which  look  like  starched  shirt- 
collars.  The  walls,  painted  with  early 
frescoes,  represent  scenes  from  the 
Scripture^  unfortunately  much  dam- 
aged and  effaced.  The  cloiBter%  seen 
firom  the  court  or  garden,  offer  a  not 
ineflSBctiTe  combination  of  plateresque 
and  ReTivaL*  The  entrance  portal  is 
charming,  and  tlie  earrings,  formeriy 
gilt,  give  an  idea  of  what  they  must 
once  liave  been.  Observe  the  quaint 
cornice,  outside  of  which  the  chief  or- 
nament consists  of  death's  heads  and 
foliage.  The  sntepecho  parapeted  gal- 
leries are  with  a  bidustrade,  open-work, 
and  pillarets.  Each  of  the  galleries  are 
formed  by  six  large  ogival  arches.  The 
capitals  of  the  pillars  are  a  museum  of 
mediiBval  pictorial  times,  containing 
animated,  graphic  scenes  of  hunting, 
war,  and  festivals,  satirical  and  his- 
toricaL  A  great  portion  of  these 
cloisters  wss  the  work  of  beginning 
of  14th  century,  and  built  for  King  Don 
Alfonso. 

The  Freaooa  are  interesting;  and 
with  inscriptions  in  Gothic  characters. 
The  colouring  once  vivid  snd  warm,  is 
scarcely  discernible.  The  composition 
is  not  wanting  in  vigour  and  grace. 
Observe  especially  the  Christ  at  the 
Column,  Christ  Disputing  with  the 
Doctors  (which  may  be  compared  with 
Holman  Hunt's  similar  subject),  and 
the  Last  Supper,  the  best,  perhaps. 
There  are  some  very  early  tombs  em- 
bedded in  the  waUs--that  of  a  Canon 
with  St  Michael  sculptured  is  good. 
The  best  is  the  Altar  del  Conde  de 
ReboUedo,  and  the  sculpture  around 
the  retablo  of  the  Veronica  is  veiy 
fine. 

Obsore  the  Roman  inscriptions,  one 
of  which,  referring  to  the  foundation  of 
the  dty,  runs  thus : — '  L^o  VII.  Qanu* 


LEON— CHAPEL  OF  ST.  ANDRi& 


229 


'Before  the  image,  'Lft  Tirgen  del 
Foro,'  which  is  pieced  on  left  of  the 
entrance^  the  peasantry  of  Leon,  until 
▼ery  lately,  used  to  celebrate  the  an- 
niTeraary  of  the  battle  of  Claryo  (846), 
in  which  their  forefathers  had  a  share, 
as  well  as  one  of  their  noblemen, 
ICsrquis  of  Astoiga,  whose  descend- 
ants on  that  account  e^jqy  a  canongia 
(canonry)— an  honour  shued  with  Uie 
monarchs  who  are  also  Canons  of  Bar- 
celona, etc,  and  when  in  these  cities 
sit,  whether  male  or  female,  at  the 
choir,  and  receire  their  fee  for  attend- 
ance. To  celebrate  thii  great  fostiTsl 
(17th  August),  snd  honour  the  warrior- 
saint,  Santiago,  who  slew  the  infidel  by 
thaumndi,  a  grand  bull-fight  used  to 
take  place  the  day  before,  and  of  the 
fourth  part  of  each  bull,  which  was 
offered  devoutly,  the  canons  made 
tkoriM$,  not  knowing  as  yet  the  beef- 
steak—that secret,  said  Bonapartist 
marshals,  of  the  civilisation  of  Eng- 
land. 


OhApel  of  St.  Andr^— Dates  1297. 
The  staircass  leading  to  the  chapter  is 
of  exquisite  Beri^  snd  built  for 
Bishop  Don  Pedro  ManueL  Obserre 
the  entrance  door  with  sculpture.  The 
landings  or  ezedras  srs  decorated  with 
statuettes  of  kingi  and  bishops.  It 
certainly  is  the  finest  and  earliest 
specimen  of  the  plateresque,  after  the 
Hospital  of  Santa  Cms  of  Toledo.  The 
chapter-room  is  most  indifferent,  and 
to  ^t  it  is  to  lose  time ;  the  door  is 
prettily  ornamented. 

The  arohire,  containing  but  a  portion 
of  the  once  magnificent  library  of  the 
cathedra],  is  little  known,  and  many  of 
the  HSS.  locked  up  here  would  throw 
light  upon  sereral  obscure,  intricate, 
and  disputed  facts  of  the  early  hirtoiy 
of  Leon,  is.  of  Spain.  Inquire  after  a 
Ma  Ctothic  BibUv   era  958  (920  of 


Christ)  of  the  sixth  year  of  the  reign 
of  Ordofio  II.,  written  by  Juan  I^ 
cono,  on  whose  intermediate  leares 
will  be  found  a  curious  life  of  San 
Froylan.  See  also  a  Book  of  Prophecies, 
Epistles,  and  Gospels,  with  inscriptions 
relatiye  to  San  Pelaya  An  Antiphon 
written  by  Aria%  1069,  snd  most  im- 
portant to  those  who  might  entertain 
the  lucky  idea,  nerer  heretofore  pro- 
perly carried  out,  of  writing  a  history  of 
the  Boman  Litnigy.  Some  Teiy  early 
MSS.,  full  of  quaint,  inedited  poetiy, 
letters,  treatisesof  DoctotsoftheC^uroh, 
etc ,  forming  part  of  a  collection  brought 
here  from  Andalusia  by  a  learned  monk, 
and  five  MSS.  of  16th  century,  com- 
prising the  history  of  Archbishop  Don 
Bodrigo,  etc 

8aaridff,^\t  is  situated  to  the  right 
of  the  high  altar.  The  triple  Gothic 
sedilia  of  the  snte-sacristia  are  to  be 
obserred.  The  sseristia  itself  is  Gothic, 
and  of  the  same  period  as  Chapel  of 
Santiago.  The  pictures  srs  indiffiBrent 
co^es  of  Italian  masters.  A  San 
Gttonimo  is  the  best  There  is  little 
to  see  here  now,  as  the  former  l{eantiful 
gems  disappeared  during  the  French 
iuTasion.  Here  was  the  wonderful 
ruby,  for  the  possession  of  which  En- 
rique III.  (1895),  sn  amateur  Duke  of 
Brunswick  of  the  time,  who  could  count 
the /itnitfMS  of  sn  emersld  like  the  best 
jeweller  (joyero),  gaTs  a  rent  of  8070 
maravedis  (£2).  The  enstodia  was 
considered  by  most  of  those  who  saw 
it  as  one  of  the  grandest  works  of 
chiselled  silver  in  the  world.  Itwss 
made  in  1506,  in  the  Gothic  style,  by 
the  Spanish  Cellini  Enrique  de  Arfe, 
whose  nephew  Juan  was  bom  at  Leon, 
and  left  a  ourious  woric  entitled  '  Yaria 
Commensuradon,'  etc  The  present 
reliquaries  and  plate  are  of  no  great 
▼aluc 

Staimitd  (TZosi.— The  greatest  portion 
was  put  up  by  Bishop  Y illalon.    It  ii 


230 


LEON— SAN  ISmORO. 


among  the  finest  in  Europe  for  viyid- 
nesi  and  intensity  of  colour,  variety  of 
tint%  strength  and  boldness  of  outline, 
sim^city  and  breadth  of  composition, 
and  unity  of  effect  The  foliaged  orna- 
mentation, the  borders  and  patterns, 
evince  a  happy  attempt  at  transferring 
to  £^ass  the  varied  designs  of  the  Neo- 
Greek  ornamentation,  as  displayed  in 
the  contemporaiysculpture^  and  devices 
from  illuminated  missals.  They  are 
among  the  earliest  in  Spain  ;  later, 
nevertheless,  than  those  of  Avila,  and 
between  middle  of  15th  century  and 
17th.  They  represent  scenes  from 
Scripture  and  the  lives  of  the  saints^  in 
the  body  of  the  church.  The  perspec- 
tive ii  inferior,  as  well  as  the  grouping 
and  relief.  The  attitudes  are  simple, 
noble,  and  sculptural,  as  they  were 
translations  from  the  statues  and  re- 
lievos. The  draperies  are  slender,  cast 
in  the  shape  of  tubes,  stiff  and  angular; 
the  expression  mystical  and  hard.  The 
largest  and  earliest  are  in  the  central 
nave.  The  finest  may  be  seen  in  the 
Chapel  of  Santiago,  and  are  ascribed  to 
Flemish  artisti.  In  Capilla  del  Privi- 
l^giado  there  is  also  a  fine  specimen  of 
1665,  representing  the  Nativi^. 


8aa  Isidore,  called  El  Real,  from 
its  having  been  founded  by  kings, 
rises  on  the  site  of  a  nunnery,  which 
was  consecrated  966,  to  St  John 
the  Baptist,  and  built  by  Sancho 
I.  Alfonso  L  enlarged  it,  and  destined 
it  for  a  royal  burial-house,  'la  iUtima 
morada,'  as  the  Spaniards  say.  In 
1068,  as  Ferdinand  I.  had  applied  to 
Ben  Abed,  the  Khalif  of  Seville  for  the 
bodies  of  the  martyred  virgins  Stas. 
Justa  and  Rufina,  San  Isidore  appeared 
*  in  a  virion  to  the  Bishop  Alvito^  who 
headed  the  embassy,  and  said,  '  I  am 
the  Doctor  de  la  EspaAas^  and  mku  i$ 
the  body  to  be  removed.'    Then  having 


thus  '  spoken  his  mind'  to  his  colleague, 
San  Alvito  hurried  to  unbury  the  sa- 
cred body  of  the  susceptible  and  un- 
gallant  doctor,  and  removed  it  to  Leon. 
The  king  and  his  sons  hastened  to  Toro 
to  receive  it,  and  carried  it  on  their 
shoulders  to  Leon  ;  the  body  working 
such  miracles  on  the  road— curing  the 
lame  and  blind,  casting  out  devils,  etc. 
—that  the  khalifs  dMghter,  the  fair 
Zaida,  was  easily  converted,  and  mar- 
ried Alfonso  YI.,  one  of  the  miraculous 
procession  I  Queen  Sancha,  whose  de- 
votion for  this  saint  was  so  great  that 
she  used  to  call  herself  his  wife,  etc 
(for  more  details  see  Risco,  vol  L 
p.  189  ;  Florez,  *  Esp.  Sagr.,'  voL  ix. 
pp.  284-406),  gave  up  her  palace,  for- 
tune, and  jewels  to  the  new  buildings 
which  she  and  Fernando  erected  in 
honour  of  the  saint^  and  to  contain  his 
body  ;  the  former  edifice  was  therefore 
pulled  down,  and  the  present  one 
erected,  and  the  first  stone  laid  Decem- 
ber 21,  1068.  Who  the  architect  was 
is  ignored,  and  Mr.  Ford,  following 
Risco,  Morales,  and  otliers,  has  erro- 
neously asserted  it  was  Pedro  de  Deo 
Tamben,  or  Vitambene.  He  was  em- 
ployed to  eontiHue  the  works,  as  his 
epitaph  has  it,  '  supervdificavit ;'  and 
his  tomb  was  not  put  up  by  Alfonso 
YI.,  as  Morales  states,  but  later  and 
by  Alfonso  YII.  and  his  sister  Dofta 
ftancha,  by  whom  the  church  was  com- 
pleted and  consecrated  March  6,  1149. 
Style, — ^This  edifice  is  an  interesting 
monument  of  the  Romano-Byzantine 
in  its  first  period,  and  will  interest  the 
student  of  architecture.  It  is  natural  to 
expect  that  it  has  not  retained  throu^- 
out  the  features  of  its  former  style,  imd 
therefore  portions,  such  as  the  high 
chapel  (1518),  part  of  the  pantheon, 
parts  of  cloisters,  staircases,  and  altars^ 
exhibit  difierent  and  more  modem 
styles.  JBxUrior. — ^There  are  two  en- 
trances.    South  Entrtmet^  on  the  H* 


LEON — SAN  ISmORO. 


231 


side  of  its  plan.  The  once  sdminble 
Paerte  del  Pardon  was  unfortiuiately 
blocked  up  when  the  front  was  forti- 
fied daring  the  French  inTasion ;  the 
three  windows  were  then  also  walled 
in,  except  the  central  one.  Obsore 
orer  the  walled-in  portal  the  three 
strictly  Byzantine  drooler  decrescent 
arches.  Ortr  the  entrance  is  an  eques- 
trian statue  of  San  Isidore,  swoxd  in 
hand,  and  riding  a  white  chaiger,  just 
as  he  was  seen  at  the  battle  of  Baeza, 
out-Santiagoising  el  mismisimo  Sefior 
Santiago.  The  actual  portal  is  com- 
posed of  ft  triple  circular  arch  with 
pillars  at  the  sides.  The  tympanum  is 
decorated  with  bassi-reUeri  coetaneous 
with  the  rest,  and  representing  Abra- 
ham's Sacrifice.  The  other  relieTi 
are  Descent  and  Burial,  etc,  and 
statues  of  Sa  Peter  and  Paul,  which 
are  phu^  at  the  sides.  The  BeWTal 
cornice  is  modem,  as  well  as  the  attic 
with  plateresque  pilasters,  and  the 
colossal  shield  of  Charles  Y.,  in  whose 
reign  these  works  were  executed.  Ob- 
serve the  square  tower,  with  Bomano- 
Byzantine  arches,  and  the  exterior  of 
the  round  chapeL  Bemark  the  rudely 
Imitfttfd  Corinthian  pillars,  and  the 
strange  capitals  with  scroll-work  and 
animalsi 

/ii(frior. --Although  the  architects 
of  the  11th  century  employed  the  piers 
and  oylindric  piUan^  of  which  there 
are  examples  at  RipoU,  San  Ifillan 
of  SegoTia,  and  Cathedral  of  Jaca, 
they  more  generaUy  embedded  a  column 
half  its  dismeter  in  each  front  of  the 
square  piers.  The  interior  is  divided 
into  three  naTes,  low,  sombre,  narrow, 
the  waggon-Taidted  roof  restiiig  on 
groups  of  four  half-columns,  and  pro- 
jecting from  square  pier-shafla.  Some 
of  the  basements  are  in  shape  of  a  cross. 
The  capitals  are  compoeed  of  groups  of 
ehildreai,  animals,  and  foliage,  very 
delicately  scnlptored  for  the  period, 


and  probably  later  than  the  11th  cen- 
tury. The  trmmpi  is  lower  than  the 
central  nare,  and  the  clerestory  is  very 
high.  The  windows  are  all  Byzantine, 
and  here  obsenre,  as  well  as  in  the 
cornice,  the  characteristic  pattern  called 
lyedrezado,  from  its  resemblance  with 
a  chess-board  (lyedrez),  more  rarely 
met  than  the  jaquelsdo  in  the  begin- 
ning of  the  11th  century,  and  exem- 
plified in  arohiyolts  and  horizontal 
fringes  or  cornices.  Bemark  in  the 
branches  of  the  transept  the  arches 
which  are  compoeed  of  segments  of 
circles,  festooned  with  lobes  in  their 
inner  part  Between  the  images  of  the 
Virgin  and  Archangel  Gabriel,  and  to 
the  right  of  a  laige  eflBgy  of  a  bishop^ 
is  the  consecration  slab  of  this  church, 
by  the  Emperor  Alfonso  and  his  mo- 
ther Sancha,  March  6,  1149.  To  the 
right  of  the  church,  looking  towards 
the  high  altar,  and  in  a  sombre  comer, 
lies  the  modest  and  holy  architect,  who 
continued  and  finiahed  the  edifice.  He 
was,  says  the  epitaph, '  Tir  mire  absti- 
nentia  et  multis  fiorebat  miraculis.' 
Near  to  it  is  a  Tery  eariy  font,  with 
strange  Byzantine  relieyi  The  pre- 
aent  square  high  chapel  was  built  in 
1518  by  Juan  de  Leon,  which  replaced 
the  former  Byzantine  jffeabyteiy  formed 
of  three  rounded  apees,  of  which  « 
lateral  one  still  remains,  of  small  di- 
mensions. The  former  windows  were 
also  substituted  by  florid  Gothic  ones, 
and  the  walls  strengthened  by  but- 
tresses. Lightning  fell  and  destroyed 
the  retablos  in  1811,  which  was  no 
loss ;  but  the  stalls  and  splendid  stained 
glass  were  destroyed,  snd  at  the  same 
time^  the  French,  that  other  thunder- 
bolt, sacked  the  church  and  carried 
away  a  silver  railing  all  the  plate  of 
San  Isidore's  tomb^  the  camarin,  and 
reliquaries  and  crosses  of  very  eariy 
date  (some  of  1096).  The  patron  saint 
lies  in  ft  silver  coffin,  on  the  altar.  The 


232 


LBON— SAN  ISIDORO. 


former  one  was  all  gold,  aad  the  prey 
of  Alonao  of  Aragon,  who  was  a 
church  pillager,  Just  like  Pedro  el 
Cruel  and  so  manj  Spanish  kings. 
This  tomb  was  once  a  great  object  of 
pilgrimages,  and  upon  it  suitors  were 
abjured  to  tell  the  truth,  death  and 
blindness  pursuing  the  peijurers.  This 
early  custom,  autiiorised  by  the  law, 
and  followed  at  Barcelona,  was  sup- 
pressed by  the  Oatholic  kings  in  1498. 
The  altar  is  ope  of  the  few  in  Spain 
that  have  the  privilege  of  having  the 
Host  always  dU  manifissto,  or  visible. 
The  scene  is  very  impressive  in  the 
evening,  when  the  church  is  all  dark- 
ness and  filled  with  invisible  beings, 
mostly  women  dad  in  black,  and 
striking  their  breasts,  with  the  usual 
yawning  closed  by  the  sign  of  the 
cross  (to  prevent  devils  diving  in), 
and  the  'Ay,  Madre  mial'  between 
yearning  after  rest  and  opening  the 
heart  to  the  Virgin ;  when,  too,  the 
altar  alone  is  illuminated,  rendering 
ghostly-visible  the  figures  of  angels 
kneeling  at  its  side.  The  chapels  are 
indifferent  That  on  the  left  of  high 
chapel  is  called  de  San  Mardno,  and 
dates  1191.  It  was  founded  by  this 
saint,  who  was  an  idiot  and  a  pilgrim, 
to  whom  San  Isidore  appeared  in  a 
dream,  and  gave  him  one  of  lus  books 
to  sorf  /  The  idiot  awoke  a  man  of  let- 
ters, and  preached  in  Latin.  His  body 
it  on  the  altar,  in  a  silver-gilt  pla- 
teresque  reliquaiy.  The  several  relics 
consist  of  an  agatha  chalice,  a  present 
of  Dofta  IJrraca,  whose  husband,  Alonso 
el  Batallador,  carried  away  the  patena. 
A  cross  with  relievi,  and  a  small  ban- 
ner, guion,  on  which  Alfonso  Vll:  had 
the  image  of  San  Isidore  embroidered, 
and  represented  as  he  had  appeared  to 
him  at  Baeza. 

Pantheon.—lt  was  built  in  the  11th 
century,  and  contains  the  bodies  of 
eight  generations  of  monarchs.    It  is 


placed  in  the  cloisters,  and  is  «  small 
chapel  dedicated  to  Sta.  Catalina, 
whose  tawdry  image  is  on  the  altar. 
It  is  sombre  and  low,  and,  like  the 
church,  has  been  fataUy  bedaubed.  £1 
Tudense  ascribes  it  to  Alfonso  Y.,  but 
it  was  more  likely  Fernando  L  The 
squsre  form  has  been  modified,  and 
was  probably  oblong  and  larger.  The 
windows  were  walled  in,  only  two  now 
lighting  the  dismal  home  of  the  early 
Kings  of  Leon  and  Castile.  The  sol- 
diers of  Soult  desecrated  it,  opened  the 
tombs,  oonfbsed  the  inscriptions,  and 
cast  tiie  ashes  to  the  wind.  Of  the 
thirty  former  tombs,  there  are  only 
twelve  now,  all  ill  authenticated,  save 
that  of  Alfonso  V.  and  Dofia  Sancha. 
Here  are  buried,  eleven  kings  and 
twelve  queens,  with  a  mob  of  little 
infantes  and  infantas.  A  regular 
printed  catalogue  is  sold,  and  every 
tomb  vouched  for.  The  chapel  itself 
will  interest  arduDologists,  as  it  is  a 
perfect  example  of  the  Byzantine  of 
the  11th  century.  The  morrice  low 
pillars,  with  bastard  Corinthian  capi- 
tals, deserve  notice;  the  inscriptions 
are  curibua  and  laconia  The  roof  is 
the  greatest  curiosity,  and  remains  as 
it  was  when  built  and  ornamented  in 
the  11th  century.  The  arches  are  orna- 
mented with  stars  and  the  hening- 
bone  patterns.  Notice  yery  especially 
the  pointed  vaults,  which  date  from 
the  11th  century.  They  are  among 
the  earliest  paintings  in  Spain,  and 
represent  different  subjects.  The  draw- 
ing is  incorrect,  the  dark  purple  colour- 
ing predominating,  but  the  composition 
is  not  ineffective.  They  are  chiefly 
subjects  from  Scripture,  comprising 
the  Old  Testament^  which,  we  may 
remark,  has  never  been  so  often  re- 
sorted to  by  Spanish  painters  and 
sculptors  as  the  New.  Observe  espe- 
cially, Adam  and  Evs^  a  Guardian 
Angel,    Massacre   of   Innocents^   Our 


LEON— AAN  MABOO& 


233 


Ssfiour  ftnd  the  Four  ETingelitti. 
Undtr  an  ardh  obeore  alfo  the  ligiii 
ci  the  sodiao  and  penonifioaiioii  of 
montha.  Jairaaiy  and  Ftbniaiy  are 
defaoed;  March  Is  repceaented  bj  a 
wood-cotter  at  hia  work ;  AprO*  by  the 
planting  of  yonng  treea;  Hay,  the  aea- 
aon  for  Jonraeya  to  Vmmear,  by  a 
traTeller  on  a  mole ;  June  and  Jnly, 
by  a  reaper  and  the  harreat ;  Angoat, 
September,  and  October  represent 
aoenea  from  the  rintage ;  Norember, 
by  a  woman  killing  a  pig;  and  De- 
oember,  by  a  man  drinking  before  a 
Ohristmaa  fire.  The  monti^  are  in- 
acribed,  as  also  aeveral  animals  and 
soenes. 

CUfiiUn, — They  have  been  mostly 
modemiaed,  the  Gothic  being  sobsti- 
tnted  by  the  Ionic;  restlges  of  the 
former  may  yet  be  aeen  on  the  side 
nearest  to  the  chnrch.  Inquire  for  the 
'  Cnarto  de  Dofia  Sancha,'  which  foims 
a  portion  of  her  palace,  and  the 
walls  of  which  were  painted  in  her 
time  (11th  oentory),  and  desenre  dote 
examination.  The  salject  is  the  foun- 
dation of  San  Isidoro.  They  are  on- 
fortonately  much  injured.  The  colour- 
ing is  excellent,  the  composition  good, 
and  they  are  in  the  atyle  of  the  early 
FlorentineB.  Turning  to  the  righ^  and 
descending  a  few  ateps,  we  enter  the 
library,  gutted  by  the  French,  who 
burnt  most  of  the  Taluable  books  and 
the  predoua  MSa  of  the  9th  and  10th 
oenturiea  it  contained.  (See  Mcralst 
and  Mi$co,)  Wo  hare  seen  a  Bible  of 
▲.D.  OM,  written  by  Sancho,  wijth 
splendid  illuminationa,  curiooa  for  tiie 
dresses,  attitudes,  etc. ;  a  breriaiy  of 
the  14th  centuiy,  and  works  of  San 
laidoro^  etc 

In  the  Saeridif  are  a  email  curioua 
dipfych,  the  Coronation  of  the  Viigin, 
and  a  fine  early  ^mail,  and  rdica 
among  them,  and  the  Yizgin'a  antbwm' 
hair,  eta    The  cloisters  are  spacious 


full  of  light  and  sunshine^  with  fine 
Tiews  on  Leon,  the  lirer,  and  San 
Marcos.  They  are  inhabited  by  eleven 
endaustrados,  once  belonging  to  the 
Augustine  Order.  The  Berira]  atair- 
caae  ia  elegant  There  are  some  in- 
scriptions in  the  doisters,  two  Tery 
early  between  the  two  archea  opening 
to  the  galleriea  of  the  andito;  one, 
relating  to  the  former  and  earlieat  edi- 
fice^ begina :  '  Hanc  quam  cemii  an- 
1am  ScL  Johannia  Baptiste  olim  ftiit 
lutea,'  eta 

Baa  Marooa. — ^As  the  cathedral  is  a 
gem  of  the  Gothic  of  the  18th  century, 
and  San  Isidoro  a  fine  and  well-pre- 
serred  monument  of  the  Byzantine  of 
the  11th  century,  San  Marooa  ia  a 
splendid  example  of  the  plateresque  of 
the  16th  century,  and  the  triumph  of 
Juan  de  Badigos.  It  is  situated  in  the 
arrabal  (an  JUab  name  for  suburb)  of 
Benuera,  with  a  &9ade  looking  on  the 
y emerge,  whose  windinga  it  command^ 
along  witii  the  verdant  plalna. 

Hiatarf, —li  nam  on  the  site  of  the 
PaUtial  Convent  of  the  Order  of  Santi- 
ago, the  most  illustrious  in  Spain,  and 
stai  extant  It  waa  at  first  (1170)  but 
a  humble  ssylum  snd  hostelry  for  the 
use  of  the  pilgrims  who  flooked  to 
ComposteUa,  and  was  given  to  the 
Order  of  St  James  in  the  year  1178. 
The  first  'maestre  general'  of  the 
Order,  Kncalada,  died  1184,  and  brave 
as  his  homonym,  and  more  wiae^  de- 
served the  epitaph— an  exception  to 
the  French  saying,  *  MmUir  conune 
une  4pitaphe,'  'Mens  pia,  laiga  ma- 
nua,  oa  prudena ;'  but  both  cfrftqih 
and  tomb  have  disappeared,  though 
not  the  aense^  which  ia  still  practised 
by  the  present  Jesuits^  who,  with  their 
usual  refinement,  tact,  and  educationa] 
talents^  will  aoon,  it  is  hoped,  un- 
Gothidse  the  good  Leoness.  The  re- 
putation of  thia  conventual  stron^^ukld 
of  tiie  Santiagueatet  raread  frr  and 


234 


LBON— BAN  MABOO& 


wide,  and  here  professed  mmj  ImVe 
knifj^ts,  and  amongst  them  the  hero  of 
the  '  Paso  honroso/  Don  Snero  de  Qni- 
fiones  (1484,  see  VaUadoUd  to  Letm  fty 
High  Soad),  and  was  in  Leon  what 
UcU's  was  in  Castile.  Towards  the 
end  of  the  16th  oeutnry  the  edifice 
became  rninons,  and  Ferdinand  the 
OathoUo  ordered  that  it  ahonld  be 
pnlled  down  and  a  new  one  erected, 
1614.  He  oontribnted  800,000  maira- 
Tedis  (£196)  a-year  to  the  works,  which 
he  confided  to  Pedro  Larrea,  architect 
of  the  Conyent  of  Alcantara ;  but  they 
were  not  b^gnn  until  the  reign  of  Charles 
v.,  about  1687.  The  general  design 
was  most  probably  drawn  up  by  Larrea, 
but  either  modified  or  abandoned,  and 
new  ones  made  by  Juan  de  Bad^os, 
who,  there  is  no  doubt,  traced  and  exe- 
cuted the  fii^ades,  sacristy,  etc  Owing 
to  the  change  of  residence  of  the  Order, 
and  other  circumstances,  the  works 
were  interrupted  from  1688  tOl  1802, 
when  the  Order  was  re-estabUshed 
here.  The  staircase  was  the  first  work 
(1816),  the  doisters  and  chapels  follow- 
ed (1879),  and  the  principal  fa^e  was 
completed  (1716). 

SiyU,  proporliom,  eta— San  Marcos 
is  a  most  beautiful  and  perfect  example 
of  the  silrersmith's  work  (plateresque) 
applied  to  the  BeriTal  architecture, 
and,  we  should  say,  the  masterpiece  of 
Juan  de  Badijoa.  The  extensiTe  build- 
ing forms  an  obloni^  and  is  composed 
of  the  church  to  the  E.,  and  the  monas- 
tery filling  the  rest  of  the  space. 

Ohmrdi, — ^Thii  church,  not  long  since 
used  as  «  storehouse,  is  Tery  carefully 
and  intelligently  repaired  by  the  Jesuits. 
Obserre  the  Tery  handsome  entrance, 
with  its  fine  arch  of  medio  punto,  with 
a  porch  and  unfinished  turrets^  with 
two  large  plateresque  niches ;  that  on 
right  containing  a  reliero  representing 
the  Crucifixion,  that  on  left  the  De- 
scent, both  by  Oroico.    llkey  are  finely 


executed,  but  considerably  damaged; 
that  of  Descent  ii  the  best  The  <^er 
niches  are  Tacant  Remark  the  shell 
ornament,  the  fine  friese  and  balustrade 
which  crown  the  porch,  within  which 
is  a  rose  and  shells.  The  triangular 
fr8nt  ii  not  completed.  Between  two 
heralds  is  shield  of  Charles  Y.  The  in- 
terior is  plain  and  noble,  composed  of 
one  nave,  with  fine  arcades  in  tiie  tran- 
sept The  roof  is  groined,  and  the 
pillars  plain.  The  windows  are  com- 
posed of  double  circular  arches ;  tiiose 
in  the  high  chapel  and  tzansept  are 
painted.  In  the  chapels  they  are  of 
medio  punto,  except  those  below  the 
choir,  which  are  ogivaL  The  high 
chapel  is  indifferent,  as  are  also  the  pul- 
pits and  rejas.  On  left  of  transept  is 
the  door  leading  to  the  cloister.  It  is 
Tery  richly  decorated  with  relieros  on 
the  arch,  columns,  frieze,  and  plater- 
esque window.  The  choir  is  elevated 
at  one  end.  The  stalls  are,  or  rather 
were,  beautifblly  carred  by  Douoel 
(1642),  but  being  repaired  in  1721-28, 
and  some  that  were  wanting  being  com- 
pleted, they  seem  churrigueresquo  rather 
than  plata:«sque,  which  is  not  ascer- 
tained till  closely  examined.  Obserre 
the  ftill-length  figures  fh>m  the  New 
Testament  in  the  upper  row,  and  the 
busts  fh>m  Old  Testament  in  the  lower, 
and  the  berrugnete  earrings  on  the  arms 
of  stalls,  balustrades,  etc.,  representing 
athletes,  centaurs,  etc  The  eaeriaty  is 
fine,  with  a  lofty  groined  roof^  and  three 
elegant  windows,  divided  by  a  central 
pillaret.  Obsore  the  excellent  plater- 
esque niche -work,  medallions,  and 
busts.  The  retablo  represents  the 
Father  with  Cherubs,  and  is  surmount* 
ed  by  a  <  Vision  of  Santiago. '  The  room 
dose  to  it  ii  plain,  but  in  keeping. 

Oloieter, — Formed  of  two  orders  of 
medio  punto,  spadous  arches.  There 
are  some  good  artesonado  oeilingi,  espo- 
dally  in  the  portion  allotted  to  the 


^ 


LEON— MIMOB  OHUBOHB& 


235 


prior,  yjait  the  cell  where  Qneredo, 
who  WIS  a  knight  of  Santiago^  was  con- 
fined for  haTing  written  a  satirical 
'memorial '  against  the  Oonde  Dnqne, 
and  which»  at  the  king's  table,  was 
found  under  Philip  lY.'s  napkin,  and 
immediatelj  ascribed  to  the  discontent- 
ed poet  In  a  letter  to  his  friend,  Adam 
de  la  Paira,  Qneredo  comj^ains  of  the 
damp  and  darkness  of  his  dnngeon, 
'which,' he  saya^ '  looks  more  like  a  den 
fit  only  for  thieres,  than  a  prison  to 
confine  an  honest  man  in ;  and  to  this 
I  have  been  driven  bj  a  man  who  is  now 
my  enemy  only  because  I  woold  not  be 
his  (ayoorite  {privado).'  And  here  he 
remained  from  December  1689  to  June 
1648. 

OonTont. — ^The  interior  is  not  inte- 
resting^ end  is  scarcely  worth  the  trouble 
of  applying  to  the  padres  for  permission 
to  visit  it,  howerer  resdily  they  grant 
it  The  great  feature  of  this  part  of  the 
edifice^  and,  indeed,  of  the  whole,  is  the 
foifadef  grand  and  ^orbusly  sculptured. 
The  line  is  continuous,  simple,  end 
correct  It  is  composed  of  two  storeys : 
the  upper  one  is  decorated  with  medio 
punto  windows  and  elegant  i^teresque 
pilasters;  the  second,  or  lower,  by 
oblong  balconies,  with  balustraded 
columns,  separated  by  statueless  niches. 
The  frieses  and  festooning  are  copies 
from  Baphael*s  Loggie.  Orer  the  upper 
friese  runs  an  elegant  cornice,  and  an 
open-work  antepeoho,  with  candela- 
bmm-work  at  intervals.  Observe  the 
medallions  under  the  lower  friese,  with 
projecting  busts^  both  histcvical  snd 
mythological,  from  sacred  Scripture 
and  from  fiuiey ;  and  curiously  enough, 
though  perhaps  not  as  much  as  may 
seem  at  first,  from  the  hif^er  genend 
idea  that  inspired  the  sculptor,  we  see 
Hercules  dote  to  the  Cid,  Charlemagne 
with  that  other  Charles  the  Great,  call- 
ed Carlos  Quinto^  Julius  Cnssr  in  good- 
ly company  with  Alexander  and  Philip 


II.,  and  Judith  with  Isabella  la  Ost6- 
lica  and  Lucrecia  not  far  off.  The 
busts  to  the  right  of  portal  are  all  por- 
traits of  the  masters  of  Santiago.  These 
alto-relievo  busts,  disfigured  now  and 
mutilated  by  the  unsparing  hand  of  foe 
and  countryman,  are  severe  and  antique 
in  styles  and  worthy  of  Berruguete  or 
Becerra.  They  are  mostly  the  w<^  of 
Orosco  snd  Ouillermo  Doucel,  though 

anrnm^  #Ml1y  Hi^ngniAaM^  hj  thm  grw^ 

and  marked  inferiority  of  execution,  are 
much  later.  The  entrance  is  not  so 
fine,  and  the  churrigneresque  has  been 
busy  here^  as  may  be  gathered  tram  the 
bastard  statues  of  Fame  blowing  a 
trumpet^  an  incongruous  specimen  of 
the  mtmnr-poiiU'/ain  of  Martin  de  Suin- 
aya,  1716-19.  Bemark,  however,  snd 
not  by  him  or  of  his  thne,  the  eques« 
trian  statue  of  the  warrior-saint  Sant- 
isgo^  whose  greatest  miracle  has  been 
to  found  churches,  win  battles,  and 
raise  loans  in  Spain,  a  country  which 
he  never  visited. 

Minor  Oharohes.—iSSai»  OlodiOf  op- 
posite to  the  vast  but  unmeaning  Casa 
de  Espositos  (not  de$  ptHd  Marii,  as  a 
Frendi  author  hurriedly  translated  it, 
but  of  foundlings),  is  now  but  a  ruin ; 
it  was  very  interesting^  but  was  sold 
latterly  for  4000r.  (£42),  and  demolish- 
ed. It  was  rebuilt  1580.  The  cloisters 
were  most  beautifuL  The  Convent  of 
Santo  Dommgo  wss  considerably  in- 
jured, and  almost  destroyed,  by  the 
French  in  1810,  and  has  some  good 
sepulchres  of  the  Quzmanes. 

Of  the  twelve  other  churchei^  most 
of  them  are  very  indifferent :  Chapel  de 
Sta.  Nona,  outside  the  town ;  Church 
of  El  Salvador  del  Nido,  a  nest  for  un- 
fledged souls.  All  good  Italians  will 
visit  it,  as  it  wss  near  its  hij^  altar 
that  the  ill-lated  Charies  Albert,  on 
April  8,  ]  849,  after  the  battle  of  Kovar% 
publicly  partook  of  the  communion, 

CliinA  (/ 5^1111  ifarof<o.—Built  in  the 


236 


LBON — OATBS  AMD  WALLS. 


9th  eentoiy  bj  King  Bamiro  L,  rebiiilt 
in  1096,  uid  modoniaed.  The  portal 
embedded  in  the  wall  ia  of  tiie  18th 
centoiy,  with  a  reliero  repreaenting 
Virgiii  aeated  and  kneeling  angela. 
Thia  amall  chapel  waa  aabaeqnentlj  re- 
tmilt  and  dedicated  to  San  Maroelo,  a 
warrior  and  a  aaint,  which  latter  cha- 
racter did  not  prcTent  hia  being  tiie 
father  of  an  Iriah  family  of  fonrteen 
joang  gentlemen.  The  pariah  church 
of  Siuita  Maria  del  Mercado  contains 
three  fine  apadona  narea,  with  win- 
dowa  flanged  bj  Byzantine  pillara ;  ob- 
aerre  the  circular  arches  and  curioua 
capitala;  the  high  altar  and  retablo  are 
abaurd. 

PubUo  Bdifloaa.-The  Biahop's  Pa- 
laoe  and  Seminary  in  Plaaa  de  la  Gate- 
dral  are  not  worth  Tiaiting.  Plam 
Mayor, — ^Thia  laigeaquare  ia  aurrounded 
by  portalea,'  formed  by  medio  punto 
arohea.  The  Town  Hall,  or  Consiatorio, 
aa  it  ia  often  called  in  Gaatile  and  Aa- 
tnriaa,  ia  to  W.  of  the  plaza,  and  datea 
1077.  It  ia  indifierent,  thou^  large, 
withaalateroo(  towers,  and  Corinthian 
pillars  in  the  portal  The  principal 
facade  of  the  edifice  ia  to  the  right ;  it 
ia  clasaieal,  and  the  work  of  Juan  de 
Bivero  (1586),  who  buUt  it  for  4000 
dueata  (£880).  On  the  cornice  of  ita 
Hall  of  Seadona  we  read  some  old 
heraldic  quintillaa,  which  end  in  thia 
epitome  of  the  hiatory  of  Leon  :— ^ 

^iTo  TetBt6  y  ciuttxo  rvyM, 
Antes  qiM  CMdlla  leyM. 
Hiso  d  ibero  sia  qoerellai^ 
Liberttf  hs  doidoaotlbs 
Le  hs  iafcnaks  grtyw. 

Oa$a  tU  lo$  fi^iMiiuNui;— Situated  in 
the  comer  of  Oalledel  Criato  de  la  Vic- 
toria, on  the  aite  of  a  former  edifice 
whidi  waa  the  birth-place  of  King 
Ouzman  el  Bueno,  who  waa  bom  at 
Leon,  January  24, 1256,  and  from  whom 
the  preaent  Bmpreaa  of  the  French  de- 
•oenda.    The  actual  palace  waa  built, 


1560,  by  one  of  thia  great  and  wealthy 
family,  D.  Juan  Qui&onea  y  Guzman, 
Biahop  of  Cklahorra.  On  Philip  IL'a 
▼iait  to  Leon,  aa  hia  oourtiera,  aome 
frienda  of  the  biahop^  were  praiaing  the 
building  and  were  mentioning  in  « 
friendly  way  the  thouaanda  of  ewts.  of 
iron  employed  in  it,  the  king  aererely 
obaenred,  punning  by  the  way,  'En 
rerdad  que  ha  aido  mucho  ifsrro  (irv% 
and  alao  a  miatake,  in  Talleyimnd'a 
aenae :  '  c'eat  plua  qu'un  crime,  o'est 
une  faute*)  para  un  obiapo.'  The  atyle 
ia  plain,  however,  and  aerere.  Over  the 
portal  ia  the  inacription  put  up  by  the 
biahop,  and  running:  'Ormmda  eat 
dignitaa  domo ;  domo  dignitaa  non 
tota  quarenda. '  Obaerre  the  Ionic  pil- 
lara  aupporting  warriors,  the  numberieaa 
iron  railings  and  balconies,  and  the 
patio  and  winding  atone  ataircaae^  eta 
It  ia  now  n^lected,  and  doae  to  thia 
palado  iathat  of  the  Marquis  of  Yillaain- 
ta,  flanked  by  towera  and  with  handaome 
balooniea.  Obaerre  alao  that  of  the 
Gutierrez.  On  the  fKeze  of  the  central 
balcony,  the  inacription  of  the  16th 
century  (of  which  the  houae  datea), 
'Solum Tiro fortipatria eat'  ThtCkua 
de  loa  Lumat  ia  not  finiahed  ;  it  haa  a 
Gothic  portal  of  the  18th  century,  an 
elegant  patio,  and  an  arch  with  exquiaite 
arabeaque.  It  now  belonga  to  the  Duke 
of  Friaa. 

QiUa  amd  fTaOf.— Of  the  Boman 
period  reatigea  atill  remain,  notwith- 
atanding  the  many  aiegea  and  partial 
deatraction  by  Almanaao&r.  There  are 
portion  of  walls  to  the  W.,  E.,  and  K. ; 
that  to  the  S.  haa  been  much  built 
againat;  but  though  the  walls  hare 
been  often  repaired,  and  the  upper  por- 
tion modemiaed,  yet  the  baaement  ia 
Boman.  There  were,  aa  usual  in 
medicTal  dtiea,  four  principal  gatea 
placed  at  the  cardinal  points.  Cloao  to 
the  Oua  de  loa  Guzmanes  was  the  W. 
gate,  f  Caurienae^   whence  Ourte ;  and 


LEON — EXOUBSIONS  IN  THE  VIERZO. 


237 


the  drcular  arch  of  the  8.  gate  may 
still  be  eeen,  or  rather  goeeMd,  in  the 
Plazaela  del  Conde  de  I^ina,  embedded 
in  a  wall,  against  which  some  horels  are 
heaped  together.  The  E.  gate  was  be- 
hind the  present  cathedral,  and  the  N. 
was  modernised  1769,  and  a  statue  of 
Pelayo  placed  upon  it  dose  to  it  is 
the  Portigo,  where  there  was  a  castle. 
Of  the  gates  erected  about  1824,  moat 
hare  been  subaeqnently  disfignred ;  see, 
howerer,  Puerta  de  Santo  Domingo ; 
Puerta  Moneda,  decorated  in  1769  with 
a  statue  of  Charles  III. ;  de  San  Fran- 
dsoo  Gallega;  those  of  £1  Sol,  El  Peso^ 
etc 

The  streets  are  indifferently  pared ; 
the  best  shops  in  Plasa  Mayor.  The 
Mereado  may  be  Tisited  for  dress  and 
customs  of  the  Cftorrof  and  other  types. 
There  is  an  indifferent  theatre,  oontain- 
fng  twelre  spectacles,  and  a  public 
library  of  4000  undassiiied  volumes  and 
MSS.  in  the  suppressed  convent  of 
Santa  Oatalina.  The  paseos  are  all  out- 
side the  town,  except  the  lounge  in  the 
Plaia  Mayor,  towards  evening.  The 
most  fiuhionable  are  La  Ronda  or  Papa- 
lagninda,  on  the  left  of  the  Vemeega, 
and  Paseo  de  San  Frandsoo. 

Xzonrsions  in  tho  Viorao  and  Ma- 
racatoria^— Those  who  have  leisure,  and 
whom  wild  districts  and  Alpine  scenery 
delight,  and  who  can,  besides,  coi\jugaie 
the  verb  to  rou^  it  in  all  tenses  and 
senses,  may  undertake  these  two  ex- 
cursions, which  will  lead  them  through 
terra  incognita  to  most  tourists,  and 
amid  pastoral  life  in  all  its  reality  and 
some  of  its  poetical  characteristics  ; 
and  first  to  the  Ftsno.  The  tourist 
will  proceed  first  to  Astoiga  (see  OoruHa, 
route  from  Leon),  104  leagues  (36  miles), 
thence  to  the  small  town  -of  Y illafranca 
del  Yieno,  12)  leagues  farther,  which 
may  be  made  a  convenient  head-quar- 
tern. Yillafranca,  thou^  once  the  rival 
of  Ponferrada,  is  now  rather  a  poor 


place  of  6000  inhabitants,  but  with 
good  caza.  mayor  and  menor,  and  excel- 
lent fishing  in  its  neighbourhood.  It 
is  dtuated  on  the  Burbia  and  Yalooroe, 
and  is  of  considerable  antiquity.  Tho 
only  oljeet  of  interest  to  be  seen  now, 
however,  is  the  Church  of  Santiago 
(Bysantine),  which  stands  on  the  right 
of  the  casUe.  The  Colegiata  may  idso 
be  visited— three  naves,  a  high  cupola 
over  transept,  and  Qraco-Boman  portals 
—and  the  Church  of  San  Trandsoo-^ 
Bysantine^  but  modernised. 

Tho  Viono.— This  district,  60  miles 
long  by  60  broad,  lies  between  YiUar 
franca,  Astoiga,  Ponferrada<  Puebla  de 
Sanabria,  and  Puente  de  Domingo.  It 
is  bounded  on  the  N.  side  by  two 
branches  of  the  Astnrian  range ;  to  tho 
W.  by  the  Puerto  de  Gebrero  (where 
excellent  Stilton-like  cheese  is  made) 
and  Aguiar  (Aquilar)  which  separate  it 
from  Galicia ;  to  the  E.,  and  on  the 
side  of  Asturias,  by  the  Puertos  de 
Foncebadon  and  the  celebrated  Monte 
Trago^  which  towards  the  8.  are  linked 
to  the  Sierras  de  Cabrera  and  Sanabria, 
the  Roman  Montes  Aquilinn.  It  forms 
thusaciMfioa^  aaksti^  the  aides  of  which 
are  irregular,  and  the  centre  is  the  re- 
ceptacle of  the  countless  rivers  and 
streams  which  descend  from  the  slopes 
of  the  surrounding  hills,  tiie  alembics 
of  ciystal  torrents.  This  concavity  or 
crater,  once  probably  a  lake,  has  an 
outlet  to  the  S.W.,  where  the  watesa 
meet  and  burst  a  passage  out  into  Oa- 
lida,  taking  the  generio  denomination 
of  the  river  Sil,  and  whose  waten  are 
considerably  increased  by  the  Baen  and 
its  tributaries.  These  waters,  whether 
coring,  filtering  or  rushing  torrent- 
Uke,  according  to  the  period  of  the 
year,  flow  over  beds  of  slate,  through 
dips  and  ravines^  amid  vales  carpeted 
with  soft  mosi^  watering  Swiss-like  ver- 
dant meadowy  and  washing  at  they 
pass  the  base  of  the  thyme-eUd  hilk. 


238 


IMOfK — THB  VIERZa 


Thnf  the  tourkt  will  tee  ttaep  aad  im- 
poring  sierras  rich  in  on  (the  wsten 
often  esrry  down  into  tho  Tilkjs  psr- 
tides  of  vifgin  gold),  a  country  Tvied 
insspeetsod  prodnet%  when  the  Tcge- 
tetion  of  the  northern  elimes  is  in  eon- 
stent  contrast  with  thst  of  the  South  ; 
the  Tine  grows  nesr  the  chestnut^  the 
oUtc  hjr  a  noble  oek,  end  the  kiger 
riTen  era  seen  winding  in  bned,  quiet 
sheets  of  water  throu^^  an  expanse  of 
green  meadow-land,  when  flocks  of 
sheep  and  round-shouldered  cattle  pas- 
tun  plentifbUj. 

The  Yierzo  is  a  name  derired  from 
the  Romaic  Bcrgidnm,  a  dtj,  the  site 
of  which  is  generallj  placed  about 
60  m.  from  Astorga,  and  on  the  road 
from  it  to  Brag%  on  a  hUl  called 
Csstro  de  la  Ventora,  and  of  which 
now  but  a  few  restiges  of  walls  remain. 
Ptolemj  called  this  rirer-girt  town 
Intersmnium  FlaTium,  though  this  is 
no  data,  as  Flavins  was  often  applied  to 
Asturian  cities.  Hiitorically,  the  Vier- 
so  formed  part  of  Qalicia  until  the 
death  of  Ferdinand  I.,  when  it  was 
meiged  into  the  reino  of  Leon.  In  the 
beginning  of  the  7th  century,  San 
Fnictuoso,  the  son  of  the  pastoral 
Sheik  or  Conde  del  Yierzo,  chose  this 
secluded  district  to  people  it  with 
monks.  He  therefora  founded  the 
first  oonrent,  the  Monasterio  de  Com- 
pludo,  at  the  base  of  Monte  Fonceba- 
don,  near  to  the  source  of  the  Molina 
(606  A.D.)  His  sanctity  and  miracles 
attracted  hundreds  of  disciples.  The 
Yierzo  was  soon  studded  with  hermit- 
sges  and  couTenti ;  the  Benedictines 
flrst,  and  then  the  Cistercians  colonised 
the  wildest  portions.  It  became  the 
Tttugp  of  sereral  world-worn  kings,  who 
sought  repose  and  the  face  of  nature, 
mora  friendly  and  truthful  than  that  of 
man.  Thus  Yeremundo  lived  in  the 
CouTent  of  Carraccdo,  on  the  banks  of 
the  Cua,  Ordoho  II.  nbuilt  that  of  SS. 


Pedro  and  Sairtii^  etc.  The  Moan, 
howenr,  nTiged  this  pet^led  ecditsde, 
aad  desteoyed  many  mooastericsL  Bnt 
in  the  9th  century  it  reeorered  sU  its 
fennerpc^olarityandTeneratioQ  among 
the  pious  of  the  land.  Many  of  the 
monasteries  an  still  extant;  othenhan 
crumbled  down  through  age  and  neglect 

The  principal  eouTents  and  chmches 
torisitare— 

SamHago  tU  Friialwa  (shout  IS  m. 
from  YiHafranca).~This  oonnnt  was 
erected  by  San  Genadio,  and  oonse- 
crated  October  24,  919,  acoofding  to 
the  inscription  on  the  left  of  the  pMtal 
leading  to  the  doisten,  end  nbuilt  and 
repaired  9S7,  by  Fortis  and  Bishop 
Salomon.  Then  is  a  grsnd  pilgrimage 
to  this  shrine,  when  the  reUcs  of  the 
(bunder  sn  kept,  on  the  25th  of  May, 
which  is  attended  by  all  the  peasants 
of  the  Yierza  A  novel  siiectucle  then 
takes  place,  which  artists  should  not 
omit  Near  it  flows  the  Rio  de  Silendo^ 
and  near  it  also  an  placed  the  Cuevss 
de  Sflendo,  five  caves  in  which  Um 
monks  used  to  pass  the  Lent  ntreat. 
The  church  is  composed  of  one  single 
nare,  some  68  ft  long  by  19  ft  broad. 
It  forms  a  squan  terminated  by  two 
circular  portions,  which  contain  the 
high  chapel  and  the  especial  chapel  and 
tomb  of  San  Qenadio.  The  main  arches 
of  both,  and  that  which  divides  the 
body  of  the  church  into  two  compart- 
ments, rest  upon  large  marble  pillars. 
Round  the  church  outside  runs  a  dosed- 
in  gallery,  or  cloister  cemetery,  very 
early,  yet  built  after  the  church  itaelt 
The  tombs,  now  dilapidatod,  an  curi- 
ous and  most  andeut,  but  none  bear 
inscriptions  save  that  of  the  French 
abbot  Etienne,  '  Famulus  Dd  Franco,' 
whose  lengthened  epitaph  is  plain  and 
fine,  and  calls  him  '  Discretus,  sapiens, 
Bobrius,  ac  patiena,'  a  good  definition  of 
Benedictines,  to  whom  this  convent  has 
bdonged. 


LBON — THE  YDBRZO. 


239 


Ami  P$iro  tU  MatUea  (about  5  m. 
farther  west). — It  was  built  by  San 
Fmotuoao,  and  repaired,  895,  by  San 
Genadio  and  Ordofto  II.  of  Galicia. 
The  chapel  was  the  work  of  Archbishop 
Virianufl^  who  died  in  odour  of  sinctity, 
as  well  as  the  abbot  of  this  Benedictine 
oonrent,  both  of  whom  are  buried  here. 
The  exterior  is  modem ;  the  interior, 
three  Byzantine  nares,  each  closed  in 
by  a  circular  apse. 

Orer  these  two  rise  the  Montes 
Aguilianos.  On  the  highest  of  the  hiUs, 
JiS  Agniana,  stands  a  small  chapel  de 
K.  SelVora.  The  view  from  it  spreads 
orer  all  the  Y  ierza  Behind  soar  into 
the  skies  the  blue  peaks  and  gorges  of 
Gabrera ;  on  the  S.  the  eye  sweeps 
orer  the  plains  to.Astoiga,  and  to  the 
W.  the  regas  of  Oalicia  appear ;  the 
Oa  issues  from  this  hill,  and,  boiling 
noisily  under  San  Pedro,  flows  into  the 
Talley  of  Yalduesa. 

Oarraeedo, — ^This  was  the  palace  of 
Yercmundo,  who  converted  it  into  a 
conrent,  dedicated  to  the  Saviour  (990), 
and  then  fixed  his  residence  at  the 
Palace  of  Yillabuena,  on  the  opposite 
bank  of  the  Cua,  and  14  league  higher 
than  Oarracedo,  where  he  died  nine 
years  after.  (He  is  better  known  as 
Bermudo  II.)  It  was  repaired,  1188, 
by  the  Emperor  Alfonso,  and  became 
a  wealthy  Cistercian  monastery.  There 
are  some  veiy  curious  Byzantine  re- 
mains here,  belonging  mostly  to  the 
12th  century,  though  there  are  some 
of  the  10th ;  the  ^urch  was  modern- 
ised in  1796.  Obserre  the  old  fii^ade 
and  portal,  the  lintel  of  which  sup- 
ports two  baUs*  heads.  The  ruinous 
lateral  facade  possesses  still  greater  ori- 
ginality—  sculptures  of  the  Saviour, 
and  two  stifi^  rude  eflSgies  of  a  king  and 
a  priest  support  the  cornice.  Over 
their  heads  are  elaborate  capitals,  and 
their  feet  rest  on  two  other  ones, 
formed  of  monsters  and  fantastical  de- 


vices. The  portal,  of  which  there  are 
few  vestiges,  was  formed  by  three  de- 
crescent archee  resting  on  columns  ; 
two  of  the  latter  stood  before  the  effi- 
gies of  the  Emperor  Alfonso  and  the 
Abbot  Florenoio,  who  b^gan  the  church 
in  1188.  These  effigies  were  held  in 
great  veneration,  and  a  sceptical  shep- 
herd, who  dared  to  cast  some  oil  on  the 
hair  and  beard  of  the  emperor,  to  see 
if  they  would  grow,  was  instantly 
struck  blind,  and  did  not  recover  his 
sight  until  he  went  on  his  knees  before 
the  statue,  and  devoutly  bagged  its 
pardon.  Tliere  are  but  few  vestiges  of 
this  early  church.  Observe  the  horse- 
shoe adopted  here  in  several  portions. 
The  chapter-house  is  of  Alfonso's  time ; 
the  fine  halls  over  the  chapter-room 
are  the  only  remains  of  Bennndo*s 
Palace,  the  longest  of  which  is  called 
the 'King's  Kitchen.'  The  general  style 
is  more  of  12th  than  10th  century. 
Obeerve  the  twelve  Bysantino-Tedesque 
arches  decorating  the  walls  of  the  fi^rat 
room  ;  the  Byzantine  pillars  and  ogival 
archway  leading  up  to  the  principal 
room,  and  ornamented  with  angels 
playing  on  instruments,  the  relievo  re- 
presenting the  death  of  Bermudo,  and 
his  wife  holding  his  son  Alfonso.  In 
the  next  room,  observe  the  octagonal 
dome  and  artesonado  ceiling  and  the 
fine  Byzantine  pillars  and  arches ;  a 
laige  fire-place  in  a  comer,  the  agimeces 
and  wheel  window.  The  audience-hall, 
a  gallery  doee  to  it,  is  very  fine,  and 
formed  by  three  arches,  of  which  the 
central  is  pointed,  and  the  two  others 
circular,  all  resting  on  columns. 

Following  the  Cua  up  to  its  conflu- 
ence with  the  Sil,  after  crossing  the 
latter,  and  ascending  the  hills,  2  lesgues 
beyond,  is  the  Lake  of  Coracedo,  not  a 
corraption  of  Carrocedo,  as  many  might 
believe,  and  distinctly  stated  as  differ- 
ent in  a  writing  of  Bermudo  II.,  990. 
This  would  delight  the  lakists.    The 


240 


LEON — KARAQATOa 


Tillage  of  El  Lago,  with  its  white- 
waabed  hoaaea  and  alate  roofs,  atands 
in  amphitheatre  aronnd  the  lake,  the 
caila/vmUei  of  which  teem  with  wild- 
fowl The  lake  ia  generallj  atill  as  a 
pond ;  in  the  day,  it  ia  like  to  a  corner 
of  the  bine  firmament  dropped  npon 
earth,  and  framed  by  woodknd  and 
meadows^  and  at  night  it  ia  not  leas 
fair,  shining  with  a  myriad  golden 
twinkling  eyes,  the  stars-  of  hearen ; 
bnt  when  the  S.  or  S.  winds  come  to 
blow,  the  qniet  lake  becomes  a  minia- 
ture sea.  Ita  eneUku  (or  swell)  extend 
then  npwarda  of  14  league,  and  burst 
their  way  into  the  Sil ;  the  decrease, 
menguOf  nerer  being  more  than  14 
league.  Some  geologista  are  of  opinion 
that  all  this  Cuenca  was  formerly  a  vast 
lake^  that  the  orerflowing  arose  from 
great  internal  conyulsions  in  the  neigh- 
bouring mines  of  'Las  Meduas^'  and 
that  the  present  lake  is  fed  by  filtrations 
throng  subterraneoua  channela.  Signa 
of  the  supposed  cataclysm  are  evident  at 
1  league  (^  8.  of  lake,  where  there  are 
Teatiges  of  Roman  ezcarations;  and 
huge  gaps  may  be  seen  in  the  rent-up 
sides  of  the  mountain  (the  Medulas, 
Mona  Medulis,  or  Metalas). 

Monadeiy  of  Espinomda, — Of  the 
10th  century ;  repaired  and  modernised 
1768-1780.  Two  curious  sepulchral 
alabs,  one  of  the  Abbot  Qutierre,  who 
estaUiahed  the  Benedictine  Order  here 
in  1071,  and  aome  Leonine  disticha, 
being  the  epitaph  of  the  fair  Timona, 
who  won  the  atout  heart  of  Alfonso, 
the  conqueror  of  Toledo,  and  filled  the 
Taoant  place  left  by  his  legitimate  wife. 
The  inscription  runs  thus: — 'Alfonsi 
ridui  regis  amica  fiii  Copia,  forma, 
genus,  Dos,  morum  cultus  amenus. 
Ife  r^gnatoris  prostituere  thoris,'  etc. 
She  was  the  grandmother  of  the  first 
king  of  Portu^  and  died  1128,  which 
date  corresponds  to  the  era  1166. 

An  easy  excursion   may  be  made 


through  the  VUmo,  by  starting  flrom 
Ponferrada,  a  small  town  but  con- 
Tenient  station,  16  miles  S.  of  Yilla- 
flranca,  on  the  Sil,  where  it  is  Joined 
by  the 

BmtamR0mit, 

Ponfemula. 


Pueaie  Domingo  Flom 
Baroo  d«  ValdABiTM 
Larooo    . 
Puebb  d«  TrivM 
Bufgo 

VabrioePrio 
NiSo  Di^via 
OfMBns0 


3 


{(^vSim)      m| 


PtmlbradatoEspiiMMtonUieBCisiiidot  • 

Compludo ;  t 

SaBtiago  dt  Pdtohra     .       •       .       .  4 

San  Pedro  dt  MooOt   .       .       .       .  i| 

FerradOlo 1 

Santa  Loda t| 

Rimdr \ 

Back  to  Foofenada      .       .       .       .  j 

14 
Pdofarada  to  Carraoedo,  altagnet. 

The  best  streams  for  fishing  in  the 
district  are  the  Tera,  Erie,  Tuerto^ 
Orbigo,  Cobrera,  Cua,  and  especially 
the  £rU  and  SiL 

Haracateria.— This  district,  with 
the  less  interesting  oneof  *  Laa  Batueoaa ' 
(see  Salamamca),  are  the  least  known 
untrodden  nooks  of  Spain.  The  Hara- 
gatos^  whose  name  has  been  diTersely 
deriTed  from  Mauri  Oapti,  etc,  form  a 
curioua  and  interesting  tribe^  liring 
exclusiTely  apart  tn/m  the  rest  of  the 
populations  which  surrxmnd  them,  and 
presenring  to  this  day  their  quaint, 
picturesque  Oriental  dress  and  customs. 
Their  honesty  and  actifity  are  pro- 
Terbial,  and  almost  all  are  carriers 
(arritrM),  gdng  on  foot,  by  the  side  of 
their  gaily-caparisoned  mules^  as  £tf  as 
Madrid,  to  sell  dry  fish,  ^ggi^  «ta. 


LBON — MAHAGATOS. 


241 


Their  marriage  •  ceramoiiiesy  funerals, 
find  poblic  dances  are  all  rerj  pecoliar. 
They  assemble  twice  a-year  at  Astoiga, 
,  Uie  capital  of  the  district,  at  the  feasts 
of  Coipns  and  the  Ascension.  The  dis- 
trict is  About  4  leagues  square,  and 
contains  thirty-six  Tillages^  of  which 
San  Baman  is  the  best  and  most  in- 
teresting. But  fine  churches,  art,  or 
traditions  must  not  be  sought  here. 
The  women  remain  at  home,  or  woric  in 
the  fields,  and  are  not  handsome. 

(Xktr  Bxeuniumi  may  be  made  to  the 
Bysantine  Monastery  of  8ta.  Maria  de 
Gradefes,  6  leagues^  following  the  trout- 
teeming  Esla,  founded  1177  for  Cister- 
cian nuns ;  portions  of  florid  Gothic, 
early  tomb  curious  for  dress  of  recum- 
bent eflSgies.  Half-*-leaguofiuiheristhe 
Pricrato  d§  8an  Miguel  d$  la  Btealada^ 
built  of  mud  and  bricks— a  curious 
specimen  of  the  fint  Bysantine  period. 
The  Moorish  portions  were  added  by 
monks  come  from  Ckyrdora;  the  original 


portion  dates  918.  One  league  W.  of 
Escaladft  is  Son  Pedro  de  SrlonaOf 
earlier  eren  than  the  10th  century,  but 
often  altered  since;  the  fine  cloisters 
were  begun  in  the  16th  century  by  Juan 
de  Bad^'os,  and  finished  by  his  pupil, 
Juan  de  RiTera  The  cruciform  pUter- 
esque  church  is  byBadi^oi^  begun  1547 
and  finished  1719,  when  the  portal  and 
other  portions  were  churriguerised. 

Chmreh  of  Samdovalf  on  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Porma  and  Ezla,  dates 
1142 ;  founded  by  Alfonso  YII.,  on  a 
low  marshy  ground  called  Soto  or  Santo 
Noval,  whence  Sandoval,  and  giren  to 
his  French  mayordomo.  Count  Ponce 
de  Minerre,  for  the  use  of  Cistercian 
monks.  Obsenre  the  capital^  pila^  the 
retablo  mayor  with  reUeros  of  history 
of  St  Bernard  (16th  century),  the  sa- 
cristia  of  17th  century,  Gnsoo-Boman 
doisten^  early  tombs  and  inscriptioiis^ 
and  the  Pnerta  del  Crucsro  with  ths 
saw-teeth  onitment»  eta 


R 


242 


MADRID- ROUTES. 

(5W  CkmH), 

IW>m  Bajonna  (A)  by  S«n  SebMtiaii,  Burgo%  and  YallAdoUd, 
byraO. 


atlas. 

Distnnea. 

Tbnn. 

Faraa. 

Obacmuiona. 

• 

Kfl. 

lO 

3 

30 

o 

FurisTliM. 

Hn.  nun. 

o    ao 

O     49 

s    IS 

Fk«ndi  Money, 
zatd.  add.  3d.  d. 
F.  t     F.  c     F.  c 
I  10     0  70     0  4S 
I  70     I  as      z  10 
4    5     30     ■  «> 

Omniboa  for  Biar- 
rits za  min. ;  my^ 
per  traveller  ;3sc 
per  parcel 

Hendaye— FVanch 
custom-houae. 
Carriagea  dumged 
m  cowing  /rww 

MadESTlun*^ 

Stoppage,  s  »*"•  ' 
atoppage. 

Iran — buffet.  Span- 
ish custonwioiise. 
Change  carriages, 
pomin.  Stoppage 
but  often  mora  Cke 
z  hour. 

Omnibuses  at  the 

Baton NB  to  — 
Biarrits. 

St.  J«uhI»>Liis    . 
Haodftye 

Irai      •       •       • 
San  Sebastfaui 
Bonoa  •       •       • 
Valllddid     .       . 

MadridTime 

Hn.  min. 

o     5 

•  n 

so    30 

»3    30 
ai     0 

Spaniah  Money. 

zat  d.  ad.  d.  ^d. 

ILc    ILc     K.C 

00     00     00 

7  so     5. 75      3  SO 
zz8    0    88  50    53  as 
Z71  as  za8  50    77  as 
a77  75  008  as  zas    0 

Batowm  to  Mndiid  . 

* 

• 

Kfl. 
66i 

Hn.min. 
az     0    « 

In  FVendi  Money. 

zat  d.  ad.  d.  ad.  d. 

F.  c     F.  c     r.  c 

77  35    5*  xo    3S  30 

In  Spaniah  Money. 
laL  CL  ad.  d.   3d.  cL 

ILc    ILc     K.  c 
a9S  0    aao  0    Z33  7s 

and  tariff. 
From  Paris  to  Ba- 
yonne,  see  Gtn*- 

*  How,  when,  and 
wbera  to  traVd  in 
Spain.' 

The  Bailway  time  is  r^gnlated  on 
the  line  from  Bajonne  to  the  Spaniah 
frontier,  Hendaye,  by  the  Paria  meri- 
dian, and  from  Iran  onwards  by  the 
Madrid  meridian,,  which  is  24  min.  be- 
hind that  of  Paris ;  while  that  of  Ba- 
yonne  is  15  min.  behind. 

Tidbeis  may  be  taken  at  Bayonne, 
Buraan  Central  das  Chemins  de  Fer 
da  Midi;  at  Madrid,  Pnerta  del  Sol 
Ko.  9 ;  at  Paris,  Grand  H6tel,  Bonle- 
▼ard  dea  Oapadnaa.  Children  under 
three  do  not  pay,  from  three  to  aix 
pay  half-price. 

Xm^^o^— 80  kfl.  (661ba.)are  allowed 
to  each  passenger.  Loggage  mud  be 
registered,  which  is  done  on  presenta- 
tion of  the  ticket  at  the  station.  The 
ticket  and  luggage  offices  close  6  min. 


before  hour  of  departure.  Foreigners 
will  do  well  to  haye  their  (area  cal- 
culated, and  their  money  ready,  before 
taking  their  tickets.  Ladiea'  and 
smokers'  carriages  are  found  in  express 
and  mafl  trains  only.  Specisl  trains 
are  granted  at  the  rate  of  Air,  per  kiL 
(12s.  0d.  per  mile),  and  not  for  less 
than  44ar.  (£4:12s.)  There  are  no 
return  or  season  tickets,  except  between 
Madrid  and  the  Escorial  and  Araigues. 
All  reclamacionea  for  luggage  lost,  etc., 
to  be  addreased  to  Sr.  Director  de  la 
Explotacion  del  Ferro  Carril  del  Norte, 
Madrid,  Calle  Leganitos  54,  and  the 
gefea  de  tren  (guards)  or  gefea  de  es- 
tacion  (station-masters).  The  rate  of 
express  speed  is  on  an  aTerage  80  kiL 
(19mfles)an'hoar. 


GREAT  HORTHEHN  RAJLVAT. 

FROM  THI  FRENCH  FRONTIER  TO  MADRID 
WITH  ITS  BRANCHES. 


t y    y « 


X  *  C  BUdr.  E4iJtWr|&. 


MADRID — ^ROUTEa 


243 


OmiagM  are  changed  it  Hendaye, 
at  the  Spanish  railway  ia  conatraoted 
on  the  InxMbd  gauge  principle,  whilst 
the  French  hare  adopted  the  narrow 
gauge.  This  difference  was  established, 
it  is  said,  at  the  request  of  the  Spanish 
Goyenunent  with  a  Tiew  to  impede 
communications  in  case  of  war  between 
the  two  countries. 

BujftiB. — MiirandOf  Burgo$^  BaJHoB^ 
FaUadoUd,  Avila,  Madrid.  AU  kept 
by  French  restaurateurs.  The  fixed 
price  for  table  d'h6te  dinner  is  14r.  (8s.), 
for  breakfast  ditto,  12r.  (2s.  0d.)  The 
carte,  or  lista,  is  higher. 

The  principal  works  of  the  line, 
which  rank  among  the  first  in  Europe 
for  engineering  skill,  run  through  the 
northern  provinces,  where  there  are 
some  rery  steep  inclines. 

It  is  a  most  interesting  route  from 
Bayonne,  as  it  passes  important  cities, 
and  trarerses  the  woody  and  rerdant 
Basque  Provinces,  and  the  imposing 
plains  of  Castile.  Omnibuses  at  stations 
for  hotels,  2r.  (6d.) ;  per  trunk,  not  ex- 
ceeding 40  kiL,  8r. ;  if  exceeding,  Ir.  for 
ereiy  10  kiL  more;  a  small  trunk, 
maUta,  2r.  By  night  senrice,  2r.  more 
perpassenger;  2r.  25c.  at  San  Sebastian.' 

TouBS  BT  Road. 

Bayonne.— (17  hours'  ride  by  rail 
from  Paris).  Hotels:  Du  Commerce, 
Rue  du  OouTemement,  De  St  Etienne, 
Place  d'Armes— good.  Table  dlidte, 
4fr.  (3s.  4d.) ;  breakfast,  2fr. ;  a  bed- 
room,  Ifr.  60c  to  2fr.  Omnibuses  from 
stations  to  hotels,  26o.  (5d.),  and  ditto 
per  00^ 

Bayonne  is  a  small  fortified  town  at 
the  confluence  of  the  Adour  and  the 
NiTe;  20,000  inhabitants,  a  chef  lien  of 
the  Basses  Pyrto^  bishop's  see,  etc. 
The  fortifications  and  citadel  are  the 
work  of  Vanban.  The  style  of  the 
houses,  and  dress  of  lower  orders,  ii 
Basque.  St.  Esprit  is  the  Jews'  quarUtr. 


and  here  reside  the  descendants  of  those 
who  escaped  the  faggot  of  the  Inqui- 
sition under  Philip  II.  They  are 
numerous,  nndeanly  as  usual  in  their 
houses  and  appearance,  and  retain  their 
old  Spanish  and  Portuguese  names  and 
fortunes.  Most  of  the  great  Jewish 
capitalists  in  France  proceed  from  Ba- 
yonne—-the  P^reires,  Mir^  etc,  and 
are  called  politely  da  IsraeUUi  ;  for,  as 
Heine,  one  of  them,  Wittily  defined  it^ 
'  un  Israelite  est  un  Ju^eanchL'  The 
great  sight  is  the  cathedral — a  time- 
honoured  Gothic  pile,  founded  1140, 
and  enlarged  1218,  and  one  of  the  many 
churches  built  in  Gascoigne  by  the 
English  when  masters  of  tiie  country. 
The  cloisters  are  among  the  largest  in 
France  St  Andr^  recently  built,  is 
a  plain,  elegant  edifice  Bayonne  is 
celebrated  for  its  chocolate,  hsms,  and 
the  inrention  of  the  bayonet  The 
chocolate  formerly  all  came  from  Spain, 
and  as  Bayonne  is  a  frontier  town,  it 
was  smuggled  in  considerable  quantities, 
and  had  in  consequence  a  sweeter  taste 
It  is,  nerertheless,  rery  well  imitated. 
The  hams  of  Bayona  in  Galida,  and  not 
of  that  in  France,  are  the  authentio 
ones ;  as  for  the  bayonet,  that  was  in- 
Ycnted  long  before  the  time  assigned  by 
the  native  panegyrists.  A  more  genuine 
produce,  and  not  the  less  piquani  for 
that,  is  the  gri$eUe,  the  miliiner  girl, 
whoee  mouchoir,  tiny  feet,  and  southern 
eyes  and  hair,  bespeak  proximity  to 
Spain.  There  is  a  good  theatre,  music 
on  the  Place  d'Armes  on  Thursday  and 
Sunday  erenings,  and  a  pretty  prome- 
nade along  the  rirer,  called  Les  All^ 
Marines;  an  English  cemetery,  the 
work  of  M^.  Harrey,  Britiah  Consul  in 
1880,  where  rest  the  gallant  officers  and 
men  of  the  2d  Life  Qnards,  who  fell 
during  the  fruitlem  siege  of  the  town 
by  the  Duke  of  Wellington  in  1814. 
Half-a-mile  S.  are  the  ruins  of  Chdtitm 
Uarrae,  built  1707  by  Maria  of  Keu' 


244 


MADRID— ROUTES. 


haar^  queen  of  Spain,  and  wHch,  by  a 
strange  coinddenoe,  became  the  resid- 
ence and  prison  of  Qiarles  IV.  of  Spain. 
FMt  Office,  opposite  the  Vienz  Clift- 
tean,  once  the  temporary  residence  of 
Catherine  de  MedicL  Money  Chamgen, 
Place  d'Arroes.  N,B, — English  aUvw 
or  French  giM  should  be  changed  here. 
English  sorereigns  are  taken  in  Spain, 
bnt  only  at  bankers' and  hotels.  British 
OonnU,  Mr.  Graham.  Bankers  (at 
Biarritz,  Saunders  and  Co.),  Rodrigues 
and  Salcedo,  Rne  Pont  Mayon.  Car* 
riages  of  all  sorts,  post-horses,  etc., 
hired  at  Darrigrand's.  Laige  cafe, 
*  Fami^ '  opposite  the  theatre.  J>odcr, 
M.  Darrican;  excellent  reputation. 
ApoOuoary,  M.  Lebeuf,  Rue  Pont 
Mayou. 


fima  Saytmme  to  Pmu;  three 
trains  a*day,  4  hn.  To  Ctumbfi,  a  Swus-Uke, 
littk  Basque  Tillage  on  the  Nive,  if  hr. ;  om- 
nibuses go  daily  to  and  from  HOtel  Mutdet,  a 
thermal  sulphureous  establishment  An  excur- 
sion of  a  hrs.,  there  and  back,  to  Pas  de  Roland, 
on  ponies.  To  Dax^  by  the  river,  5  hrs.  (by 
steasMn  whidi  generally  leave  on  Fridays  and 
retom  next  day;  also  by  rail).  To  Ptyrf 
kmrmde,  a  hrs. ;  steamers,  three  times  a-weefc ; 
good  view  of  the  pleasant  banks  of  the  river.  A 
splendid  view  of  the  Pyrenees,  dty,  and  the 
distant  sea,  is  obtained  from  the  fine  Casa 
Caradoc,  a  villa  in  the  Mansard  style,  belonging 
to  Lord  Howden,  situated  at  St.  Esprit.  To 
BimrritM  by  rail :  but  we  recommend  the  drive 
by  the  Bam  and  lighthouse,  and  return  by  the 
high  road*;  conveyances  every  quarter  of  an 
hour,  35  min.  by  latter,  and  1  hr.  by  the  Barre. 

Half-way  by  the  Barre'  may  be 
risited  the  nunnery  of  Ls  B^fuge, 
founded  by  the  Abb^  Cestac  It 
-consists  of  two  orders—'  Les  Serrantes 
de  Marie,'  who  teach  the  poor,  make 
linen,  etc,  and  have  conrerted  the 
former  sterile  dumss  into  thriTing 
pHUidas  and  maise  fields;  and  the 
female  Trappist%  called  'Las  Bemar- 
dines^'  whose  long  white  woollen  dress 
and  TOW  of  perpetual  sUence  are  so 
meritorious  in  talkatiTe,  toilet-loring 
French  ladies. 


Biaxrits. — EoieU:  Gardbes^  werj 
large  and  admirably  situated;  d'An- 
gleterre,  comfortable.  Pop.  2500.  This 
wild,  rocky,  little  Gascon  village,  whose 
fame  as  the  emperor's  summer  rem* 
deuce  is  now  world-wide,  lies  most  pic- 
turesquely, with  its  amphitheatre  of 
snowy  houses  scattered  over  its  de- 
clivities ;  the  climate  is  delightful,  and 
superior  to  Pan  in  many  respects.  The 
sea-bathing  excellent;  three  beaches. 
The  view  from  the  Cdte  des  Basques 
sweeps  over  a  second  Neapolitan  bay  to 
the  blue-tinted  Spanish  mountains. 
There  is  a  good  casino.  The  'YUU 
Eugenie,'  or  imperial  residence,  is  hap- 
pily situated,  and  may  be  visited  on 
application  to  the  Lieutenont-gouver- 
neur,  M.  Ardoin,  on  Thursdays.  A 
Protestant  church,  and  service  on  Sun- 
days. A  resident  clergyman  of  the 
Church  of  England,  and  two  English 
physicians ;  Dr.  Ad^ma  is  well  recom- 
mended. A  Port  de  Refbge  is  being 
bmlt,  and  to  cost  some  £200,000.  The 
season,  July  to  October,  is  very  gay. 
It  then  becomes  the  '  rendezvous  de  la 
faehionf*  as  the^ocal  paper  says,  of 
Paris  and  Madrid. 

£jpcmrdms  may  be  made  from  Bimrrila  to 
Bilbao,  SanUrndtr,  and  Smm  StiasHan. 
Steamers,  two  a-wedc.  To  FtmtUmMm,  either 
by  tail  to  Hendaye  or  Irun,  and  then  10  asilcs 
distance,  or  better,  by  a  hired  carriage,  a|  hrs. 
Fuentenabia,  Pons  Rapidos,  pop.  ssoo^  is  a  fiu 
better  specimen  of  an  old  Spanish  to%m  than 
most  of  those  on  the  Spanbh  frontier ;  and  its 
massive  walk,  stem,  gloomy  granite  houses, 
with  r^jasand  iron  balconies,  retain  much 
character.  The  castiDo  was  built  in  loth  cen- 
tury by  the  king  of  Navarre,  Sancho  Abarca, 
The  frfade  on  the  plasa  is  of  the  16th  century. 
The  other  ^KMie  was  rebuilt  by  Charles  V. 
Thechnrdi,  Gothic  inside,  and  the  exterior  of 
the  Revival,  contains  no  object  of  interest. 
From  its  balcony  the  eye  sweeps  over  those 
plains,  the  site  of  one  of  the  last  fieats  of  the 
British  arms  in  the  Peninsular  war— vis.  the 
Psmag r  of  the  Bidassoa.  Let  tboee  who  have 
come  thus  far  Just  to  be  able  to  say  they 
have  been  in  Spain,  not  proceed  furtlier,  as 


MADBID— ROUTE& 


245 


Inm,  St  SdMMtkn,  etc.*  an  BOtlmiff  but  Bnqne 
towm  dtroid  of  mt«fcsL 

Betnmiiig  our  railway  route  from 
Bayonne  to  Madrid,  we  toon  reach 
81.  Jean  da  Iios,  on  the  Nirelle: 
2668  inhab.  Hdtel  de  France— de  St 
Etienne. — ^A  peacefiil,  tearbathing  re- 
aort,  and  a  good  apedmen  of  the  Basque 
styleof  hooae  architecture,  whichiamore 
or  leaa  that  of  erery  hilly  rainy  coontry, 
reminding  one  of  Swiai  ch&leta  and 
Roaaian  roadside  inna.  There  is  some 
talk  of  oonyerting  ita  preaent  muddy 
ahallow  pond  into  a  grand  military 
port,  araenal,  docks,  etc  Ita  enter- 
prising natiyes  hare  always  been,  and 
continue  to  be,  engaged  in  whale-fish- 
eries. In  its  modest  cathedral,  Louis 
XIY.  was  married  to  Maria  Th^r^ 
daughter  of  Philip  lY.  of  Spain  (June 
9, 1660),  so  great  an  honour  to  so  small 
a  town,  that  the  Gascon  song  runs  thus, 
summing  up  the  glories  of  tiie  dty : — 

Scn-Jaii-de-I.4itx,  ptfUt  Paria, 
,.      Ba]romM  feacuddrM : 

Lou  Rcy  qutf  ily  maride ;  • 
L'Eveaqoe  qo<  y  €%  nurart,* 
L  latandoD  <|utf  y  ea  erfmourati 

The  royal  couple  lodged  in  the  large 
square  red-painted  house  on  the  square, 
and  called  Casa  de  la  Infanta. 

There  is  a  email  yillage  left  to  the 
ri^t,  called  Urrugne,  a  great  *  centre ' 
of  Basque  tennis-court  players.  Around 
the  dial  of  the  old  churah  clock,  whose 
needles  haye  the  shape  of  arrowa,  run 
the  melancholy  words,  '  Vulnerant 
omnes^  ultima  necat' 

Hendaye  (change  carriagea  here)  la 
reached,  the  last  French  town,  and  the 
Bidassoa  crossed.  Between  the  bridge 
and  the  sea  are  aome  forda  practicable 
only  at  low-water.  In  1818,  the  Duke 
of  Wellington  forded  the  riyer ;  the 
troops  climbed  boldly  the  hill  (U 
Khune),  and  dislodged  Soult  and  his 


•The 
days  after. 


army,  who  had  taken  up  podtions  on  its 
slopes^  and  were  not  expecting  this  at- 
tack. The  Bidassoa,  which  separatee 
the  two  countriea  here,  flowa  for  46  m., 
and  ia  formed  by  two  streams,  coming 
from  Eliiondo  and  £1  Baztan.  The 
mouth  of  the  riyer  la  defended,  on  the 
French  aide,  by  Hendaye,.oelebrated  for 
its  brandy,  which  aenres  to  keep  the 
frontier  folk  in  good  spirits,  and  on  the 
Spanish  aide  by  Fuenterrabia,  the  whole 
of  which  would  certainly 'not  stand  an 
ordinary  gun-ahot. 

In  the  riyer  may  be  noticed  a  patch 
of  land,  some  square  yards  in  extent, 
pompously  called  I'lle  de  la  Conference. 
Here  Louis  XIY.,  June  4,  1660,  con- 
trary to  etiquette,  had  a  first  interriew 
with  Maria  Th^rte ;  but  it  is  diiBcult 
now,  without  looking  on  the  islet 
through  the  magniQring  glass  of  imagi- 
nation, to  agree  with  La  Fontaine,  who 
said:— 

Je  m*uaagine  voir  avec  Loob  lo  Gnuid, 
Philippe  Qvatra  qui  a'avaaca 
Dana  rile  de  la  Coofirence. 

It  is  not  longer,  says  Th^  Gauthier, 
'qu'unesolefrite  de  moyenne  esp^' 
but  room  haa  been  found  for  a  marble 
monument  to  record  that  eyent 

HereaboLouiaXI.of  Fhuiceand  Henriqoe 
IV.,  1463,  aaet  to  negotiate  the  aurriafe  of  the 
French  Duke  of  Guienae*  when  the  paltry 
dresses  of  the  oowtien  excited  the  cooteapt 
and  indifwation  of  the  Cattilian  noble  own,  all 
vehreta  and  }a/tm.  Here,  asain,  1645,  Isabella, 
danghter  of  Henri  Qnatre,  subaequent  wife  of 
Philtp  IV.,  was  exchanged  against  his  sister, 
Annaof  Austria,  as  wife  for  Louis  XI IL  Here 
the  Treaty  of  the  Piienets  waa  drawn  up  by 
Maiarin  and  Don  Lois  de  Haro  (1660X  Veks- 
ques,  who  fitted  up  the  salon  for  the  conference 
between  his  sovereign  and  Lows  XIV.,  canght 
a  fever,  of  which  he  died  soon  after.  In  isa^ 
the  errhange  of  Praada  I.,  a  piisoner  then  of 
CSiarles  V.,  against  his  two  sons,  who  rtiainsd 
as  hostages,  took  place  in  the  middle  of  the 
river.  Francis  hastily  joaipcd  from  the  Spanish 
boat  into  another  HMinnsd  by  his  own  subjects, 
and  rowed  in  all  haste  lo  the  shore,  when  he 
literally  fled  to  Bayonne,  forgetful  of  his  child- 
aad  of  hia  honour,  which  ha  saved  al  Pavia, 


346 

mIm  wott  to  htt 
IW  twhoaden 
the 
I  jMdy  called 
iMV  tad  vIm^  fikc 
Co  amra  iIm  cdiAec 


MADRID — ^BOUm. 


bbovnof  tbc  cc 


Inm— Vond»  dtf  Hortau— We  an 
DOW  in  the  Spenieh  Beeqne  Prorineeii 
nd  in  that  eepedelly  which  ie  called 
Oiiipiucoa»  of  which  San  Sebaatian  ia 
thec^itaL  Thednadedcoatom-hoiiae 
ofic6f%  Tiataa,  call  on  na  to  deUrer  np 
onr  tnmka  and  carpet-bagi.  Look  not 
too  croaa  nor  anziooa— a  dgar  and  a  Joke 
go  a  long  waj,  bat  bribing  ia  of  no  effect 
hen.  If  not  registered  throughout  (Ba- 
yonne  to  Kadrid),  haye  your  Inggnge 
phmhi^  to  aToid  farther  visiUi  on  the 
way;  bat  when  the  former  case  takes 
place,  the  loggage  is  risited  only  on 
arriring  at  Madrid,  and  when  coming 
from  Madrid,  at  Hendaye.  The  town 
is  uninteresting.  In  the  ridtiity  is  the 
Hill  de  San  Mardal,  where,  August  81, 
1818»  12,000  Spanish  troopa  under  Me- 
rinodrore  headlong  back  18,000  French 
oommanded  by  Oeneral  BeUle.  A  few 
mHea  farther  to  the  ri^t,  facingthesea, 
is  the  aecure  Pnerta  de  Pasagea.  Whole 
fleets  hsTO  lain  here  sheltered  from  the 
winds  and  enemy.  The  bay  narrows  at 
La  Puntade  las  Cruees ;  Lafayette  sailed 
from  this  port  to  America.  In  1719, 
the  Duke  of  Berwick  set  fire  to  six  huge 
men-of-war  just  completing.  The  Tillage 
is  now  a  heap  of  mined,  smoked  horeU, 
inhabited  by  fiahermen. 

8aa  Sobaaiiaa.— Oapital  of  Ptot.  of 
Ouipuscoa ;  pop.  15,900. 

HoUU, — Fonda  Nuera  de  Berasa, 
good  and  decent ;  Fonda  de  la  Poeta, 
equally  good.  Ohargea  high  during  the 
summer  season.  Excellent  fish;  and 
beady,  high-flaTOured  '  chacolL' 

The  town  is  bailt  on  an  isthmus  at 
the  foot  of  Monte  Orgullo  or  Urgull,  to 
which  it  is  joined  by  a  strip  of  land,  and 
between  two  baya.    This  jpHanfimU  is 


strong  defended  by  the  Oastle  de  k 
Mota,  which  erowna  the  hUL  The  bay 
ia  not  aecure^  and  large  ¥f«seli  cannot 
enter  it  fhmi  ita  want  of  depth.  The 
amaUer  merchant  craft,  cacha  marinea, 
Ingres,  the  Bayonne  chsasemarfaa,  and 
Basque  trincadoura,  are  moofed  along 
the  narrow  quaya.  During  aummer  the 
town  is  mu^  f^eqoented  by  Madrikn- 
ians  fbr  sea-bathing ;  and  tent-like  huta 
or  cabins^  collectiTely  defined  d  oflMtjM- 
mnUa,  are  erected  on  the  beach  of  thia 
ahell-like(amdU)bay.  The  hills  around 
are  clothed  with  rcidure  and  timber, 
and  dotted  with  whitewashed  Baaque 
cottagea,  while  the  banks  of  the  Urumea 
are  charming  and  moat  ref^tahing  after 
the  arid  plains  of  Oastilei  Thealameda 
promenade  is  pleasant  in  the  erenin^ 
when  the  military  band  plays.  There 
is  a  small  theatre,  and  a  bull-ring  whose 
fundones,  though  despised  by  afidona- 
doa,  are  much  resorted  to  by  French 
and  £n^iih  reaidents  at  Biarrits  and 
Pan.  The  large  arcaded  Plata  de  la 
Constitucion  presents  a  curioua  sight  <m 
holidays,  when  may  be  aeen,  in  all  their 
genuine,  nuve,  antique,  Cdtic  charac^ 
ter,  the  Basque  costumes^  dancea,  and 
on  some  occasions  the  torodsfUftgo  and 
other  aemi-barbarona  jollificationa  of 
thia  wild,  noble  race.  San  Sebastian  ia 
remarkable  for  the  beauty  of  its  female 
population. 

There  is  nothing  really  Spanish  about 
the  houses,  streets,  etc,  and  soch  will 
be  the  case  until  wereach  Burgos.  The 
churchea  are  indifferent :  that  of  Sla, 
Maria  haa  a  churriguereaque  facade  and 
heary  tawdry  altars.  Sam  FiemU  is 
Reriyal  outside,  and  the  interior  Gothic 
Aaoend  to  Monte  Orgullo,  20  min.  walk ; 
the  riew  from  the  aummit  is  fine  At 
the  back  of  the  rock  are  some  grsTea  of 
the  gallant  En^^h  officers  who  fell  dur- 
ing the  siege  There  is  little  trade; 
about  260  small  Tesseb  oome  and  leare 
annually.    In  1818,  when  the  dty  waa 


MADRID — RODTSa 


247 


garriioiied  hf  8000  French  Tetenns 
nndflr  0«nend  Rij,  it  wm  Maanlted  by 
the  British  foroei  under  the  Duke  of 
Veltiugtou,  who  encoeeded  in  taking 
the  main  works  and  town.  The  French, 
nerertheleaiy  retired  into  the  upper  cita- 
del and  intrenched  themaelTea  strongly, 
and  it  was  not  until  August  81  that 
they  sorrendered,  the  success  of  the 
attack  being  dhieflj  the  work  of  the  blue 
Jackets.  Two-thbds  of  the  garrison 
perished,  and  the  Knglish  had  6000 
killed  and  wounded.  The  town  was 
sacked  and  set  on  fire  by  the  English 
troops^  drunk  with  triumph  and  idne. 
This  unfortunate  inoe  could  not  bepre- 
Tented,  and  all  the  energy  and  example 
of  tiie  British  officers  were  of  no  sTiiL 
Facts  must  not  be  disfigured  to  please 
patriotism,  and  this  is  one  of  the  Tery 
few  Uack  spots  on  thi  glorious  sun  of 
Fngland  that  has  shone  on  thii  land. 
Steamers  sail  from  San  Sebastian  to 
Bayonne,Bflbao,andSantander.  DiLto 
Zaraus,  Bilbao,  Dera,  Cestona,  Arecha- 
raleta,  Yergara,  etc;  also,  to  London, 
in  snmmer,  a  screw-steamer  erery  three 


The  raflway  now  ascends  Tery  gra- 
dually, windbig  its  way  throng  the 
Tslley  of  the  XJrumea,  a  Swiss-&e  re- 
gion ;  then  fd^ows  the  coorse  of  the 
Aria,  aad  reaches 

Tolosa^— On  the  Aria  and  Ariges. 
Pop.  7800.  In  a  Talley  formed  by  the 
Ernio  aad  I|oasu  hills.  A  small,  in- 
differently-built  Basque  town.  The 
Church  of  Sta.  Maria  contains  good 
specimens  of  the  marbles  found  in 
the  Tidnity,  some  doth  and  paper 
maaufMturea.  A  pretfy  Paseo  de  Igar- 
rondo. 

Alsaiiai — ^About  86  miles  fitmi  To- 
losa;  is  thsjunction  for  Pamplona  and 
Zaragon. 

Yltoria.— Capital  of  Ptot.  of  AlaTa. 
HoUi:  De   PkDarea.      Popi   18,70a 


The  andent  Betoria,  a  As^^  in' Basque. 
The  town  is  divided  into  the  old  8um^ 
and  the  new  portion.  It  is  a  pleasant 
gay,  and  thriving  provincial  town, 
with  a  healthy  climate  and  some  charm- 
ing promenades^  espedally  the  Florida, 
at  the  foot  of  which  tiie  station  is 
placed.  The  Prado  is  another  paseo, 
and  during  the  winter  the  arcades  of 
La  Plasa  Nueva.  Thib  OoUgiaiad»im 
1160,  but  has  been  altered.  The  Go- 
thic arches  are  striking.  The  Chapd 
de  Santiago  contains  some  interesting 
tombs.  In  tiie  sacristy  maybe  noticed 
a  fine  Piedad,  ascribed  to  Murillo.  In 
the  Church  of  San  Migud,  observe  the 
high  altar,  which  is  ^e  work  of  Juan 
Velasques  (not  the  great  man)  and 
Greg.  Hemandes,  one  of  the  best  Span- 
ish sculptors. 

The  JBatOs  </  rUoHa,  a  celebrated 
En^iih  victory,  took  place  in  the  vi- 
cinity, on  the  oppodte  side  of  the  town, 
June  1818,  between  the  British  fwoes 
under  the  Duke  of  Wellington,  and  the 
French  army  commanded  by  Joseph 
Bonaparte  and  Jourdan,  which  ended 
in  the  total  rout  of  the  Utter,  who  fled 
in  disorder— Joseph  (Pape  Botdla,  as 
the  Spanisids  nicknamed  the  bottie- 
loving  king)  riding  a  mule^  and  leaving 
his  magnificent  collection  of  pictures 
to  the  victorious  duke.  The  jtotder 
amounted  to  6, 000, 000  dole.  The  battle 
of  Yitoria  led  to  the  ezpuldon  of  the 
French  from  Spain. 

Mirand*  do  Xbro  k  the  first  GbstU- 
ian  town  we  meet  8800  hihab.  A 
poor  specimen,  but  a  true  one^  of  the 
province.  The  train  soon  after  crosses 
the  Zadorra  and  Ebro,  follows  the 
course  of  the  Orondllo,  and  enters  the 
grand,  stern,  wild,  Salvator-Booascenery 
of  the  gorges  of  Pancorbo.  The  ruins 
on  the  heights  are  thoee  of  a  fort  called 
de  Sta.  Engrada,  which  was  taken  and 
destroyed  in  18S8  by  a  French  division 
under  Prince  de  Hohenlohe ;  and  also 


248 


UADRID — ROXTTBS. 


of  a  castle  to  wluch^  aooording  to  tra- 
dition,  Roderik,  the  last  of  the  Goths, 
earned  the  fair  La  Oaya,  for  whooesske 
he  lost  his  sceptre  and  his  life.  On 
leaving  these  rocky  chasms  and  bound- 
ing torrents,  a  tonnel  is  entered  and 
BuBOOS  readied.    (See  Bur^fos.) 

Kow  seyeral  rirers  are  rapidly  crossed 
•^the  Csrrion,  Pisaergs,  Dnero,  £s- 
qnevB,  etc,  all  entering  the  TaUeys  of 
Arlanzon  and  Yalladolid. 

Venta  da  Bafios. — ^Here  a  line 
hrsnches  to  Santander,  by  Palencia, 
Alar,  and  Beinoea. 

Valladolid  (which  see>.  An  im- 
portant station  for  the  N.  line,  and 
where  all  its  materiel  is  kept  and  made 
and  repaired.  On  leaving  it  the  Dnero 
is  crossed,  and  then  the  Adaja  follows 
a  S.W.  direction,  and  crosses  the  Za- 
pardielat 

Medina  del  Oampo. — Inns:  Para- 
dor  del  Pepe  and  de  la  Petra — ^bad. 
8000  inhab.  Station  for  Salamanca. 
(See  ScUamanea.) 

On  leaving  it,  the  same  river  is 
crossed  again,  and  at  Arevalo  the 
Ad^ja,  on  a  fine  stone  viaduct  of  four 
sTches.  Arevalo  is  a  miserable  village, 
2200  souls  ;  the  palace,  whose  ruins 
we  see,  has  nevertheless  been  the  resi- 
dence of  Queen  Isabella,  Charles  Y., 
Philip  II.,  etc. 

Avll*  (which  see).  Amid  rich  val- 
leys, marble-pregnant  hills,  and  oak 
and  pine  forests. 

The  train  now  ascends  pretty  steep 
inclines,  seldom  exceeding  in  speed  15 
miles  an  hour.  This  portion  is  among 
the  finest  and  costliest  works  of  the 
company,  owin^  to  the  broken-up  con- 
figuration of  the  countiy.  Thus,  the 
tunnel  of  Navalgrande  is  2088)  feet 
lon^  and  2520  ft  above  the  sea.  The 
soil  has  been  brought  and  accumulat^Hl 
to  146  ft.  At  Las  Kavas  del  Marques 
are  crossed  very  extensive  pine-forests, 
the  property  of  the  Duke  de  Medina- 


oeli,  and  10  m.  long.  The  famous  Es* 
corial  is  left  a  little  to  the  left  (See 
Saeorial,)  Another  tunnel  passed,  812 
ft  long,  the  Manzanares  crossed,  por- 
tions of  the  royal  pleasure-grounds  of 
£1  Pardo  and  Montafia  del  Principe 
Pio  traversed,  and  in  the  distance, 
nearing  fast,  Madrid  appears  before  us, 
the  royal  palace  crowning  the  height  in 
front.  On  leaving  the  train  we  ascend 
to  the  town  by  the  steep  hill  and  gate 
de  San  Vicente.  Cabs  and  omnibuses 
in  attendance.     (See  Madrid.) 

B.  Zdroffota  and  Chiadaiajara,  — By 
Bayonne  to^^MJUo,  a  station  on  Madrid 
and  Burgos  Bailway.  Time  5  hrs.  80  m. 
Change  carriages ;  take  up  the  Pam- 
plona railway  from  Alsasua  to  Zaragoza 
by  Pamplona,  by  rail  direct;  time  2  hrs. ; 
fit>m  Alsasua  to  Pamplona,  and  fh)m 
latter  to  Zaragoza,  time  6  hrs.  80  m.; 
Zaragoza  to  Madrid,  time  10  hrs.  80  m. 
Total->Bayonne  to  Madrid-^time  24  hrs. 
As  seen  above,  this  is  not  the  most  di- 
rect route  of  the  two.  (For  description 
of  Zaroffoxa^  see  that  name. ) 

AT.^.— By  going  from  Alsasua  to  Las 
Casetas,  and  taking  the  Madrid  rail 
there,  Zaragoza  is  avoided. 

C.  Boute. — ^From  Bayonne  via  Pam- 
plona. This  line  belongs 
to  the  Grand  Central,  MM. 
Rothschilds,  Lehon,  etc  ; 

it  is  well  managed.  The  buffets  infe- 
rior to  those  of  the  Buigos  line. 

It  passes  no  towns  of  importance, 
and  the  scenery  is  not  as  interesting 
as  by  the  northern  line^  except  the 
portion  to  Pamplona. 

JkacripUon  of  Jtoute.^The  railway 
crosses  several  veiy  pretty  valleys  wa- 
tered by  the  Borunda  and  other  minoi 
streams,  and  soon  after  Zuaste  we 
reach 

Pamplona. — Capital  of  Province  of 
Navarre.     Population,  22,806.    Inn: 
Fonda  del  InfEinte,  where  dils.  put  np^ 
I  25r.,  very  middling. 


^ICADBID— B0UTE8  (PAMPLONA). 


249 


Thb  dtj  nands  on  the  left  benk  of 
the  Aigk,  on  m  height  oommmding  the 
ftrtfle  phdne  eioimd.  It  ii  fortified, 
and  WM  elwaje  ooneidered  the  frontier 
kej  of  Spain  on  that  aide  of  the  king- 
dom. The  citadel  in  the  S.W.  part  of 
the  town,  and  other  worka  of  defence, 
are  conatmcted  on  the  model  of  Ant- 
werp^ and  after  Yanhan'a  prindplea  ;  it 
ia  atrong^  and  can  hold  a  ganiaon  of 
SOOOmen. 

The  name  of  Pamplona  ia  derlTcd 
from  PompeiopoUa,  or  Pompej'a  dty, 
which  he  ia  aaid  to  hare  foonded  in 
oommemcration  of  hia  victoriea  over 
fiertorioa.  Sancho  Abarca  fixed  his 
court  here,  and  it  became  the  capital  of 
the  kingdom  of  Nayarre.  The  kings  of 
France  long  ruled  over  it  in  conaeqnence 
of  the  marriage  of  Phillipe  le  Bel  with 
Dofia  Jnana.  Hia  granddan^ter  was 
married  here  to  the  Count  die  Cham- 
pagne, and  succeeded  to  the  crown ; 
hm  alao  their  coronations  took  place, 
and  the  erent  was  celebrated  with  tour- 
naments, bull-fights,  and  danoea  To 
complete  the  festivities,  and  offer  a 
nord  spectacle  pleasant  to  the  princes, 
90  less  than  10,000  Jews,  it  is  said, 
were  assembled  and  burnt  alire  in  the 
aquare ;  the  human  bonfire  (adda  ez- 
nltingly  a  chronicler  of  the  time)  could 
be  aoen  for  miles  and  miles  distant 
During  a  siege  of  the  town  hj  the 
French  under  Andri  de  Foiz  (1621), 
Ignado  de  Lqjda,  the  founder  of  the 
Jesuits,  was  wounded,  and  it  waa  dur- 
ing his  conTslescence  that  he  planned 
the  rulea  which  were  togorem  Idssemi- 
militBiy  order.  A  small  chapel,  chur- 
riguereaque  and  indifferent^  raised  long 
afterwards  to  his  memory,  is  situated 
near  the  promenade,  and  behind  the 
Paladode  la  Diputadon.  Bonaparte, 
Febmarj  1808,  aent  d'Armagnao  to 
Pamplona,  under  the  guise  of  an  aUi- 
•nee  with  Charies  IV.,  when  the  Spa- 
nish anthoritiea  were  weak  enough  to 


aerre  out  rations  to  their  JrimuUiD.  the 
dtadeL  Thereupon,  soon  after  their 
anira],  some  French  grenadiers,  ubder 
the  pretence  of  playing  at  enowballs^ 
secured  the  drawbridge,  and  took  pos- 
session of  the  town  ;  but  after  the  biUitle 
of  YitotiM,  the  Duke  of  Wellington 
blockaded  the  town,  and,  notwith- 
atanding  Soult'a  desperate  eflbrta  to  re- 
liereit,  entered  it  after  a  few  daya*  re- 
aistanoe  (1818). 

Siglita.  — C|c  €<t|ctfs(.  built  by 
Charlea  the  Noble,  1897,  on  the  ruina 
of  a  former,  whidi  dated  from  1100, 
and  of  which  sereral  portions  remain  in , 
the  Chapd  of  Sta.  Crux.  Obeenre, 
amongst  others,  the  rery  richly  orna- 
mented capitals,  which  decorated  the 
prindpal  portal  The  edifice  is  not 
large,  but  offers  here  and  there  some 
go^  specimens  of  light  €k>thia  The 
Gr»oo-Boman  prindpal  entrance  was 
put  up  by  Ventura  Bodriguez,  1788, 
and,  tiiough  out  of  keeping  with  the 
rest,  is  of  rery  good  style,  and  eflectire. 
The  interior  is  simple,  and  dirided  into 
five  naves.  The  choir -stalls  are  by 
Migud  de  Ancheta,  1580.  They  fonn 
two  tiers,  and  number  fifty-six  richly- 
carved  sUlas  above,  and  forty-four  be- 
low, all  very  eUboraiely  carved,  with 
semi-relievos  representing  saints,  patri- 
archs, and  prophets.  Ths  r^  is  a 
fine  example  of  dnque-centa  Cn  en- 
tering the  choir,  and  in  the  centre,  are 
the  tombs  of  the  founder  and  his  queen; 
on  the  cushion  are  the  weeds  '  bonne 
foy,  bonne  foy.'  At  the  king's  feet  is 
a  lion,  and  at  the  queen's  two  dogs.. 
The  door  which  leads  into  the  doister 
is  of  the  end  of  the  14th  century.  Ob- 
serve the  well-sculptured  scenes  from 
the  life  of  the  Yiiicin.  Sola  Pneio§a, 
where  the  Cortes,  of  Navarre  formerly 
met  There  is  a  fine  tomb^  with  an 
equestrian  statue  of  Conde  Qsges. 
Chapel  de  Sta.  Cms,  a  fine  rqa  mads 
with  the  f>>«'t!t  taken  at  the  battb  ol 


250 


MADRID— BOUTES. 


Lts  Navia  de  Toloaa.  The  relict  era 
kept  here.  The  doisten  are  light  and 
elegant  Thia  ie  reallj  the  only  eight, 
and  the  mansion-honae,  dtadel,  and 
other  chnrohee  are  devoid  of  intereit 
A  theatre^  eaaino,  and  hnll-ring.  Xa 
TaeoiUra  ii  the  faahionaMe  promenade, 
and  the  yiew  from  it  of  the  Tallejr  and 
moontaina  ii  eztenaiye  and  fine.  Thia 
mny  noUe  y  muj  leal  dtj,  aa  it  ie 
offidallj  styled,  was  till  lately  the 
foons  of  dvil  wir,  and  reddence  of 
many  Spanish  grandees,  stanndi  parti- 
sane  of  Don  C^loa.  The  dty  is  yery 
dull,  and  the  only  amusement  is  the 
tennis-eonrt  Excnisions  may  be 
made  to 

X><ywfe,  14I  leaguM  (50  m.)  by  EstdUu 
SomU  dOigenoe  every  other  day  acron  unin- 
tereeling  ooontiy.  EateOa,  ia  «  fertile  vine  tad 
olive  growiag  pbin,  pop.  7000^  00  the  Ega  end 
Ameecua ;  a  dull  vOUge,  the  residence  at  Don 
Carloelni835.  Ruinsof anAlcatar.  Churdiet 
of  San  Joan  and  San  Pedro  La  Roia.  Ashady 
afameda,  Abo  hy  raU  vm  Alfero^  and  then  to 
LogroAo.  To  Siria,  hy  nol  to  AUaro^  and 
then  by  anaB  diL 

To  Zmragwm  (tee  that  name)  proceed  mm 
Lat  Catetat  jnnctioo,  where  travellen  /hftm 
Zangoca  to  Madrid  change  carriages. 

Resnming  the  rafl  to  lisdrid,  we 
find  the  route  uninteresting  untfl  we 
reach  Oalatajud,  KaUtt-Ayub— ^m- 
hici,  Ayubi  Osstle.  Fonda  del  Issuro, 
popi  10,000,  on  the  left  hank  of  the 
Jalon.  The  most  important  dty  in 
Aragon,  after  that  of  ZaragoiA,  and 
surrounded  by  well-cultiyated  fertile 
plains,  which  are  watered  by  the  Jalon 
and  Xiloca.  Cloee  to  it  stood  oooe  the 
dty  of  BUbilis. 

Moaioepes,  Augusta  odhi  qooe  BObiUs  acri 
Monte  craat»  rapidk  quern  Sab  ctngit  aquls ; 

Maktial. 

Spared  for  some  time  by  the  Hoor, 
it  was  finally  destroyed  by  him ;  and  a 
new  dty  built  near  it  by  Ayub,  whence 
ita  preeent  namei  It  wss  captured, 
IISO,  by  Alfonso  d  Batallador,  and  be- 
came an  important  strategica]  podtion. 


the  scene  of  serend  sieges.  It  ii 
gloomy,  dull,  but  preserves  still  much 
of  the  stem,  masdye^  Aragonese  chsrae- 
ter.  The  diurohe%  though  numerous^ 
are  deyoid  of  interest;  and,  thou^ 
dating  from  esrly  periods,  such  as  ti^ 
Cole^ata  de  Sta.  Maria  ia  Mayor  (1240), 
haye  been  altered  and  disfigured.  The 
Moreris,  or  former  Moors'  quarter,  is  in 
the  upper  portion,  the  oldest  of  the 
town,  and  mostiy  composed  of  ezcaya- 
tions  in  the  rock,'  where  dwell  the 
poorer  clsssfB,  These  masmorras  date 
from'  the  time  of  the  Moor%  and  are 
seen  in  msny  parts  of  Spain,  and  at 
(Jranada  especially.  They  deserye  the 
srtist's  yidt^  as  missry  is  most  pictur* 
esqudy  clad  in  Spain,  and  the  groups, 
attitudes^  etc.,  of  the  inmates  ftdl  of 
character. 

The  rail,  on  leaving  Gslatayud,  fol- 
lows the  course  of  the  Jdon,  and  oioescs 
its  pleasant  valley.  A  tunnel,  2028  ft 
long;  is  traversed,  and  we  enter  the  val- 
ley of  the  Henares;  the  scenery  becomes 
wild  and  picturesque,  and  cultivation  is 
rare ;  we  cross  the  river  Hensres,  by 
foUowing  which  we  arrive  at 

Sigaanaa.  —  Prov.  of  Chiadali^faim. 
4700  inhab; ;  Ushop's  see,  suffragan  of 
Toleda  Seldom  vidted,  and  destitute 
of  any  decent  accommodation.  It  is 
built  on  the  dopes  of  a  lofty  knoll, 
bathed  on  the  S.  dde  by  the  Henares. 
The  masdve  walls  and  former  gatee  still 
eziet,  sombre^  and  flanked  by  turrets. 
On  the  highest  point  of  the  city  stands 
the  imposing  casUe,  the  reddence  now 
of  the  bishop.  The  streets  are  narrow, 
winding  >teep^  and  iU  paved  ;bot there 
breathes  still  about  the  old  dty  an  afr 
of  grandeur,  antiquity,  and  strength, 
which  throws  over  it  a  melancholy  not 
destitute  of  charm.  Obeerve  the  very 
esrly  houses  around  San  Vicente,  some 
Bysantine  even ;  and  in  Plasa  de  la 
Oatedral,  severd  others  of  the  plater- 
esque  andOothic  stylea 


MADRID — BoirrBS  (sicruBMZA;. 


251 


BIchts.  — The  great  sight  if  the 
Oaih&firal.  This  casteUated  chnreh 
stands  between  two  plazas,  on  the  slopes 
ofahUL  The  fii^e  is  flanked  bj  two 
loftj  massiTe  towers,  with  Irattresses 
terminated  by  balls ;  that  of  the  left 
was  erected  by  Bishop  Don  Fadriqne, 
of  P<»tagal  (1688).  Two  substantial 
and  lofty  saUent  bnttresses  endoee  the 
central  portal,  and  on  each  side,  between 
them  and  the  towers,  is  a  portal,  with 
a  window  orer  it,  drcnlar,  and  with 
rich  Bysantine  details.  The  central 
consists  of  aglorions  rose-window,  with 
small  pillars  radiating  from  the  central 
circle.  The  portals  are  all  drcnlar; 
the  central  is  deeply  recessed ;  they  are 
decorated  with  sixteen  colomns,  the 
sculptore  of  which  has  been  destroyed, 
restiges  remaining  only  in  that  to  the 
left  The  medallion  over  the  central 
portal  represents  the  Virgin  giring  the 
casnlla  (chasnble)  to  San  Ildefonso; 
it  IB  modem  and  indifferent.  The 
balnstraded  parapet  crowning  the  fa^e, 
and  connecting  the  towers,  is  in  good 
style,  and  of  18th  centory.  The  raUing 
which  endoses  the  edifice  all  round  is 
also  modem.  The  date  of  the  erection 
is  vnoertain,  probably  from  end  of  12th 
to  beginning  of  18th  century. 

The  interior  is  plain  and  striking. 
The  proportions  are,  98  ft.  high  for  the 
central  nare,  the  lateral  ones  haTing 
only  68 ;  the  length,  818  ft;  the  width 
lis  a  It  is  dirided  into  three  noUe 
naTes,  formed  Irf  ten  masnye  piers,  60 
ft.  circumference.  From  these  spring 
twenty  small,  dender,  reed-like  shafts, 
grouped  in  rows  of  three  together,  and 
with  capitals  consisting  of  wide  leaTcs 
of  the  transition  between  Bysantine  to 
Gothic.  The  windows,  destitute  of 
painted  glass;  are  Bysantine  in  the 
kteial  naTes,  and  Gothic  in  the  centrd 
one.  Th$  High  Chapd  begins  at  the 
transept  Its  ingress  is  dosed  by  an 
elegant  r^    At  each  side  is  an  ala- 


>  baster  pulpit,  with  figures.  That  on 
the  side  of  the  epistle  is  Gothic;  the  one 
on  the  side  of  the  gospd,  plateresque. 
This  chapd  was  founded  by  Bidiop 
Mendosa,  and  dates,  therefore,  during 
the  decline  of  Gothic.  Sereral  tombe 
on  the  sides.  Among  them,  obsenre 
one  with  the  recumbent  effigy  of  Bishop 
Bernard,  a  Frenchman,  and  Primate  ii 
Toledo.  There  is  also  a  fine  one  of  Oar- 
dinal  Alfonso  Oarrillo  (1420).  The  ra- 
table was  put  up  1818,  by  Bishop  llateo 
de  Burgos.  It  is  of  the  three  orders,  and 
with  basd-rdieTi  representing  scenes 
from  the  life  of  Christ  The  statues 
of  Fdth,  Hope,  and  Ghsrity,  are  the 
most  remarkable  feature.  Thib  taber- 
nade  is  ehurriguereeque.  Th$  troKorp 
must  be  doedy  eTaminfd,  as  it  is  not 
only  richly  ornamented  with  marUes, 
but  is  a  good  specimen  of  the  period 
when  it  was  raised  (1686).  The  anage 
of  Sta.  Maria  la  Mayor  is  much  Tene- 
rated,  but  not  by  sculpton.  The  altar 
is  decorated  with  Solomonic  pillars  of 
black  marUe,  with  Immse  bases,  and 
sculptured,  all  in  bad  taste^  and  of  end 
of  17th  century. 

Chapa  (f  Sta,  CbtoKna.— It  was 
dedicated  to  St  Thomas  of  Oanterbury, 
a  few  years  after  his  martyrdom,  by 
Bishop  Jocdyn,  who  came  to  Spain 
with  Queen  Leonor,  when  a  great  many 
churches  and  chapds  were  raised  to 
that  saint  throughout  Oastile.  The 
portd  is  plateresque,  by  Yasques  de 
Sees,  and  put  up  by  a  bishop  of  CSana- 
rias  and  Oanario.  It  is  a  most  exquisite 
work.  Notice  beddes  the  excellent  style 
of  the  tombs  of  this  worthy  prelate^ 
Fernando  de  Arce^  who  died  1622,  and 
that  of  his  brother.  The  dtar  is  chnr- 
riguereeque,  but  the  former  one,  with  a 
fiiM  Florentine  picture  of  the  crad- 
fixion,  may  be  seen  in  the  sacristia. 
y  idt  also  the  Chapd  de  San  Fraadseo 
XsTier,  its  tombs  and  orudfix ;  the 
tomb  and  odo«d  effigy  of 


252 


Li^jan  (ok  1465),  nev  the  b^itismftl 
font ;  the  excellent  portals  of  Chapels 
de  Ben  Msroos  and  La  Annimdacion, 
whidi  contain  a  Gothic  retaUo  and 
pUterasqoe  tomb ;  the  altar  of  Sta. 
Lfibrada^  who  was  one  of  nine  aainti» 
sisten,  all  horn  at  tk$  simm  time. 
These  darlfngi,  a  blessing  tor  anj 
father,  had  nime  amas  (nnrses),  snd  de- 
serred,  saj  thepioos  historisns^  pshns 
of  mime  martyrdoms.  Pope  Innocent 
lY.  (1248,  1251),  in  two  diflTerent  bulls 
of  those  dates,  mentions  the  fsct^  and 

the  eldest  of  that  holy  lamil  j,  whose 
bodj  was  brooght  here  from  Astorias. 
The  indifferent  retaUo  dates  1498-1511. 
The  sacristia,  also  called  the  ssgrario^  is 
the  work  of  Alfonso  de  Onrarnibias. 
Obsenre  the  ceiling  decorated  with  boats 
of  old  men,  fair  Tiigins,  and  grotesque 
buffoons.  The  Chapel  de  las  Reliqnias 
has  an  ochavada  (octagonal)  cnpola  full 
of  scolptoring.  The  church  plate, 
which  the  French  did  not  carry  away, 
is  fine  and  of  value,  but  of  little  arUsUo 
merit  The  present  cloisters,  elegant 
and  plain,  were  built  by  Cardinal  Car- 
TSgal,  1507,  on  the  site  of  the  former 
ones,  of  which  some  curious  slabs,  etc, 
hare  been  presenred ;  some  fine  plater- 
esque  portals.  In  the  Sola  Capitular 
de  Imiviemo  ladies  will  do  well  to  in- 
quire for  some  old  and  admirably-worked 
tapestry.  A  visit  may  also  be  made  to 
^e  Jeronimite  Colegio,  founded  1488, 
where  obeerve  the  classical  doisters  and 
tomb  of  Bishop  Risova  (ob.  1657). 
Two  miles  from  the  town  is  the  village 
of  Yillavi^a,  on  the  site  of  Segoncia  or 
Sagunoia,  founded  by  the  frigitives  from 
Begun  tnm. 

OuadalaJanL— Capital  of  province 
of  same  name.  Hotel:  Fonda  de  la 
Diligeneia.  Popi  7902.  Saidtobethe 
Arriaea  of  Antoninu%  and  the  Caraea 
of  Ptolemy  and  Plutarch!    Itia,ataU 


eventi,  a  very  ancient  city,  the  Moors' 
Widi-lha-Jarih,  the  river  of  stones— 
was  captmed  from  them  by  the  ed»- 
brated  companion  of  the  Cid,  Alvar 
Fafiei  de  Minaya,  and  became  the  ap- 
panage of  the  Mendosas,  aneestois  of 
the  Duke  de  Oso&a,  to  whom  most  oi 
the  town  still  belongs  These  feudal 
lords  possffssfid,  in  ^  15th  and  18th 
centuries,  800  villsges  and  90,000  vas- 
sals, and  their  pages  were  all  titled 
gentlemen  of  Castile.  Here  died  the 
celebrated  Gran  Cardenal  de  Espaha 
(11th  January  1495),  in  the  presence  of 
theCktholic  kings.  Here,  1621,  Francis 
I.  resided  some  time  on  his  way  to  his 
gaol  at  Madrid.  He  was  much  fSted 
by  the  old  gouty  Duke  dd  Tnfimtado^ 
and  the  rdaeUm  of  the  festivitifls  is 
curious.  The  first  day,  bull-fights  and 
jousts  by  the  gentlemen  of  the  ducal 
court ;  the  second,  a  beast-fi^t  between 
tigers,  lions,  etc;  the  third  a  tourna- 
ment Some  time  afterwards,  the 
French  monarch  challenged  his  host 
(1528),  who  asked  advice  and  leave  of 
Charles  Y.  The  king  answered  him  by 
letter  not  to  sccept  ^e  proposal 

Philip  II.  despotically  disposed  of 
this  dty  in  favour  of  his  aunt,  the  widow 
queen  of  France,  and  obliged  the  duke 
to  abandon  his  palace  Here  he  was 
married  to  Isabella  de  Yalois  (1560). 
In  171 4,  Philip  Y.  wss  slso  married  here 
to  Isabella  Famese  ;  Juan  of  Austria 
resided  here  ;  and  the  widow  of  Charles 
II.,  Maria  de  Neubourg,  breathed  her 
last  (1 740).  The  Mendosas  became  ex- 
tinct in  the  1 7th  century,  and  their  col- 
lateral branch,  the  dukes  of  Infantados, 
removed  their  residenoe  to  Madrid. 

Paiaee,^jL  visit  should  be  paid  to 
their  palace,  which  was  begun  by  the 
second  duke,  and  of  the  15th  century. 
It  is  in  the  Gotho-plateresque  transi- 
tion style,  with  many  vestiges  of  the 
Moorish  taste.  Observe  the  fsfade 
and  armorials — the  row  of 


MADRID — ^ROXmES  (OUXNOA). 


253 


windows,  agimeces,  grefttlj  disfigured 
by  modem  common-place  balccoiies. 
llie  square  paHo  with  two  tiers  of  gal- 
leries, with  shields  of  the  Mendozas  and 
Lnnas,  flanked  by  griflins  and  large 
Alhambraic  heraldic  lions.  ItisTery 
elegant  and  quaint  Read  the  inscrip- 
tion orer  the  lower  arches,  which,  after 
detailing  with  evident  self-indulgence 
all  the  titles  of  the  founder,  finishes  by 
Solomon's  'Todoes  ranidad  t'  an  incon- 
gruous humility  on  such  an  ostentatious 
mansion.  The  architects  were  Juan 
and  his  brother  Enrique  Guas,  the  same 
who  designed  the  San  Juan  de  loe  Reyes 
at  Toledo.  What  a  diflerence  between 
this  bastardised  plateresque  and  the 
pure  undefiled  style  of  the  church  I 
Visit  the  long  Ouarda  Muebles ;  observe 
here  the  huge  chimney  and  artesonada 
Sala  de  Linages  is  the  finest  room  here. 
Notice  the  stalactite  gilt  roof,  escut- 
cheons, and  busts.  The  third  duke,  a 
very  pious  man,  turned  it  into  a  chapel, 
and  his  singers  and  chaplains  are  men- 
tioned in  Navagiero.  On  Corpus  Day 
he  solemnised  the  festivity  by  proces- 
sions, dances,  masquerades,  bull-fights, 
'en  honra  del  Santisimo  Sacramento,* 
as  Alvar  Mufies  de  Castro  has  it  in  his 
'HistdeGuadali^jarm.'  YisitalsoSan 
Frandsoo^  rebuilt  1898,  and  the  JPanieon 
of  the  Mendozae^  begun  1696,  finished 
1720 ;  the  tombs,  once  among  the  finest 
in  the  world,  were  barbarously  mutilated 
by  the  French.  The  former  solar  of 
the  Mendozae^  now  a  carrol,  is  in  Pla- 
suek  de  Sta.  MariiL  Here  the  great 
cardinal  died.  There  are  few  other 
si^ts.  The  town  hall,  of  1586,  was 
altered  in  1716.  The  Cdegio  de  In- 
geniiroe  is  indiflerent 

Shortly  after  quitting  this  town  we 
cross  the  Jarama  on  a  fine  bridge,  then 
the  Abroftigal  torrent  (arroyo),  and 
reach  Madrid,  which  we  enter  by  the 
Prado  and  GaDe  do  Aloali  of  San 
Geronimo  or  Atocha. 


Bottif  .—From  Pamplona,  vU  Soma.— 
Xmii  to  Albao,  dil  to  Soria  by  Agrtda :  retuni 
to  Agreda,  anddiL  to  Sigueoia,  or  thoico  by 
rail  to  Madrid.  TliU  road  U  now  alnwMt  en- 
tirdf  abandoned.  We  have  fblknred  It  mora 
tnan  once,  oefora  railwajrs  were  tiiouKlit  of, 
and  can  teatify  that  tfiere  b  nothing  either  la 
the  icenery  or  cities  tiaveiaed  which  deaenrea 
the  trouble  and  jolting  necemary  to  reach 
Madrid  by  this  way.  The  only  dty  of  any 
importance  la  Spftitt  capital  oi  prorinoo  of 
lame  name :  pop.  5764 :  which  i«  veiy  dall» 
▼enr  eombre,  and  most  uninteresting.  Th« 
I  pnnapal  church  b  that  of  San  Pedro,  of  the 
pecodo<lemical  style,  with  a  well-canred  ail- 
ieria,  a  pwituie  01  the  Descent,  ascribed  to 
Titian.  Ooee  to  the  town  is  the  Hermitage  de 
San  Saturio,  picturesquely  situated,  and  with 
curious  subterraneous  passages  and  rooaas. 
Some  vestiges  renudn  of  the  fonner  very  im- 
portent  walls  and  cubes. 

From  YALBNOiA^t^  CuxNOA  byroad. 
Valencia  to  Cuenca  1^  diL, 
S64  leagues  (126  m.)  ;  from 
enca  to  Madrid  by  Tar* 
ancon,  diL,  86  leagues  (00  m.).  The 
principal  rirers  traversed  are  the  Tnria, 
Cabriel,  Uuescar,  Jucar,  and  JaraauL 
The  most  important  cities  are :  Be- 
quena  (10,898  inhab.),  Cuenca,  and 
Tarauoon.  The  scenery  is  uninteresting. 

CvxNOA. — Pop.  7876 ;  capital  of  pro- 
Tince  of  same  name  (N.  Castile). 

Hotels. — ^Parador  de  Diligendas, 
and  Possdo  dd  SoL  Most  pictur- 
esqudy  situated  on  the  steep  slopes  of  a 
laige  knoll  or  loma  between  the  deep 
beds  of  the  Jucar  and  the  Huescar, 
which  wash  its  base.  The  dty,  seen 
from  bdow,  rises  with  its  dusters  of 
houses  like  an  amphitheatre.  The 
name  Cuenca  is  derired  from  a  shell 
{eoneka),  say  some  etymd<^gista.  A 
fuero  was  granted  to  it  by  Alfonso 
YIIL,  which  contains  curious  laws; 
'  Men  shall  go  to  the  public  baths '  on 
Tuesdays,  Thursdays,  and  Saturdays  ; 
women  on  Mondays  and  Wednesdays  ; 

*  Note.— Ro«tat  frost  Valencia  by  Rai,  aae 


264 


KADBID— ROUTB& 


Jews  on  Fridays  and  Sundays.  The 
law  severely  chastised  the  heretic,  who 
was  hurled  down  the  rocks,  despcAado, 
and  branded  with  a  long  iron,  which 
the  priests  blessed  and  the  judge 
warmed.  Indeed,  the  foggot  was  sdr 
dom  pat  oat  here,  as  the  Jews  were 
nameroos,  and  about  1391  all  their 
houses  and  aynsgogues  were  sacked  and 
destroyed. 

On  the  highest  point  of  the  dty  are 
the  ruins  of  the  dreaded  Inquisition, 
in  whose  autos  the  carderos,  or  wool- 
cleaners,  acted  as  Soldadoe  de  la  F^ 

Sights.— The  town  is  ill  built,  and 
there  is  nothing  worth  seeing  save  the 
Cathedral 

CkUKedraL — ^The  square  facade  looks 
wdl  from  a  distance.  The  edifice  rises 
on  a  platform,  and  is  ascended  by  an 
eacalinata  or  grees  of  stone.  As  to  its 
style  it  is  Gothic,  save  the  crowning 
portion,  which  is  of  the  17th  century. 
The  church  was  built  in  the  18th  cen- 
tury, on  the  site  of  a  former  mosqu^ 
and  it  has  preserved  its  early  Qothic 
style  with  some  Byzantine  vestiges 
here  and  there.  The  interior  consists 
of  the  naves ;  the  central  one,  called 
de  loe  Reyes,  is  higher  than  the  lateral 
ones.  The  arches  are  of  a  very  pointed 
style,  the  pillars  massive,  but  the 
colouring  and  whitewash  mar  the  effect 
which  would  otherwise  be  produced  by 
the  general  plain  majestic  character  of 
the  whole.  The  dimensions  are  812 
feet  long  by  140  wide.  The  transept 
is  effective.  Observe  the  painted  win- 
dows. As  usual,  the  choir  blocks  up 
the  central  nave.  The  stalls  have  been 
sadly  modernised.  The  organs  and 
pulpits  indifferent  The  reja  and  lec- 
tern are  fine  specimens  of  the  plater- 
esque,  and  masterpieces  of  Hernando 
de  Arenas  (1557).  The  present  retablo 
is  a  medley  of  fine  marbles^  though 
much  admired,  and  unworthy  of  its 
designer,  Ventura  Rodrigues.    Among 


the  chapels,  observe  the  plateresqoi 
portal  of  that  of  Los  Apostoles.  The 
portal  into  the  cloisters  most  berru- 
guete-like.  The  chapel  de  loe  Oabal- 
leros  is  of  various  periods.  The  plater- 
esque  portal  towards  the  transept  is 
stnngely  crowned  by  an  admirably- 
wrought  stone  skdeton,  with  inscrip- 
tions :  '  De  victus  militibus  mors  tri- 
umphal' 'Disrupta  magna  vetustate 
restituta  sit  perpetuo.'  The  reja  fine. 
The  pictures  in  the  retablo  date  1525, 
and  were  painted  by  Hernando  Taiies, 
a  pupil,  it  IB  said  of  Raphael  The 
Yiigin  and  Child  is  the  best  Among 
other  sepulchres  of  the  great  Albomez 
family,  notice  that  of  the  great  cardinal, 
and  of  his  mother.  The  cloisters  are 
in  the  Herrera  style,  by  Juan  Andrea 
Rodi,  1577-88,  of  no  great  importance. 
The  portal  of  St  Helena,  and  classical 
reja  of  that  of  San  Juan,  deserve  notice. 
Among  other  old  houses  in  tliis  dty, 
tourists  must  not  fidl  to  visit  those  in 
the  Calle  de  Correduria. 

At  Tarakcon,  5000  ihhabitants,  the 
Rianzares  is  crossed,  which  together 
with  the  name  of  the  village  were 
granted  as  titles  to  the  present  husband 
of  Queen  Christina.  At  Villarejo,  ama- 
teurs of  the  Yalentian  school  may 
while  away  an  hour  in  examining  some 
good  pictures  of  Orente,  in  its  dburoh. 
Several  olive-grounds  are  now  crossed, 
alternately  with  baldioe  or  wastes. 
The  Tigana  is  spanned  by  a  stone 
bridge,  and  through  a  pretty  valley  we 
ascend  to  Arganda,  8000,  inhabitants, 
celebrated  for  its  excellent  red  wine. 
Shortly  after  leaving  this,  the  Jarama 
is  croased,  near  its  confluence  with  the 
Manxanares,  and  on  a  fine  suspeniion- 
bridge.  Yacia  Madrid,  a  hamlet,  it 
reached,  and  then  Yallecas,  a  dty  of 
bakers,  which  sends  to  Madrid  mudi  of 
its  pan  quo^iano,  and  we  enter  the 
capital  by  the  ronda,  on  the  left  of  the 
I  Alicante  railway  station. 


MADRID— BOUTBS  (ALMANSA). 


256 


Madrid  from  Maiuwtt.t.iw  and  Bas- 
OELONA  vid  Yalihoia. — The  route 
from  MarteUlet  may  be  followed  either 
hj  Ntsmeay  Montpellier,  or  Perpigmm, 
whence  by  Barcelona  and  Zaragoza; 
rail  thronghoati  except  a  few  houia' 
dil.  (see  JBaredofia),  or  by  tea,  per 
steamers  of  Messageries  Imp^riales  from 
Marseillea  direct  to  Valencia;  leave 
Wednesdays  at  4  p.m.,  and  arriye  at 
Valencia  on  Fridays,  at  7  p.m.  Fares, 
1st  cL,  104fr. ;  2d  cL,  75fr.  :  8d  a, 
86fr.  In  the  1st  and  2d  class,  meals, 
landing,  etc,  are  induded.  From  Va- 
lencia, by  ndl,  164  1^". ;  two  trains  a- 
day.  If,  B,  —  Messageries  steamers 
leave  Valencia  for  Maneilles  on  Thurs- 
days, at  5  P.M.  Off  at  Madrid— 16 
Oalle  AlcalA.  The  passage  is  generally 
rough,  especially  in  the  Gulf  of  Lyons, 
and  during  the  equinox,  and  in  winter. 
But  good  sailors  will  ei^oy  the  trip^  as 
the  coasts  of  Spain,  on  nearing  Valen- 
cia, present  a  charming,  novel  spectacle, 
from  their  peculiarly  African  character 
and  vegetation. 

MAB8BILLB8.  —  Oromd  Edtd  du 
Loum,  affording  extensive  accommo- 
dation ;  Oraind  EUel  du  Emperturs, 
well  situated  and  good.  Pop.  233,817. 
The  chief  French  Mediterranean  port ; 
a  handsome  thriving  dty ;  improving 
rapidly  in  every  sense,  and  most  im- 
portant as  a  commercial  centre.  The 
principal  streets  are  La  CSannebibe  and 
the  recently- opened  Rue  Imp^riale, 
which  intersects  the  old  parts  of  the 
town.  Principal  sights : — ^The  magni- 
ficent new  Exchange,  a  fine  new  Catiie- 
dral.  Zoological  Gardens,  Museum  at 
ChAtean  Bcordli  Square,  and  Fountain 
da  rOb^lisque^  a  laige  theatre,  the 
Prado^  a  promenade  8  miles  long,  etc 
English  Church,  100  Rue  Silvabelle ; 
service  at  10.80  A.M.  and  8  p.m. 

From  Manetlles  to  Pant,  hf  rail,  9o|  hn. 
To  London  diroct  by  Paris,  30^  him.  To  Ntco 
by  nul,6fan. 


On  arriving  at  Valbroia,  see  this 
name  for  description,  &rei^  etc 

The  route  froon  Valencia  to  Almansa 
passes  no  cities  of  any  importance  ;  but 
the  scenery  is  most  Oriental ;  the  vege- 
tation exotic  About  OaUarq/a  the 
fertility  of  the  soil  is  such  that  it 
yields,  in  irrigated  soils,  above  80  per  ot 
per  acre  Near  Silla  is  the  large  lake 
of  La  Albufera  (see  FdUnda).  Aig€- 
men— the  church  contains  several  fine 
Ribaltas.  ^Mti.— As  the  Huerta  of 
Valencia  is  called  the  Garden  of  Spain, 
this  pkce  is  defined  the  Jardin  del  Reino 
de  Valencia.  Between  this  and  Jitiva, 
and  more  especially  about  Caroagente 
(pop.  7000),  the  eye  sweeps  over  a 
vale  of  plenty.  The  olive^  the  orange^ 
the  mulberry ;  the  many  and  pictur- 
esque water-wheels,  called  norias  ;  the 
low  whitewashed  teiraoed  oortgbo, 
shaded  by  a  couple  of  stately  palms;  the 
Bedouin-looking  farmers,  whose  absence 
of  dress  confinns  Voltaire's  saying 
'Rien  n'habille  comme  le  nu;  the 
square  brick  belfries  of  the  village 
churches,  whose  bright -coloured  asu- 
legos  shine  in  the  glorious  sun— such 
are  the  principal  features  of  the  country 
we  traverse  until  we  reach  Jitiva  (also 
called  San  Felipe),  pop.  18,600.  A 
most  Moorish  name^  dty,  and  popula- 
tion, on  the  slopes  of  a  range  of  high 
hills,  and  facing  a  beautifrd  fertile 
plain  teeming  with  life  and  fruit  The 
torrent  of  La  Montesa  is  crossed  on 
leaving  it  The  ruins  of  the  castle  of 
that  name  are  seen  in  the  distance 
This  castle  was  once  the  stron^^d  of 
the  knightly  order  of  Montesa,  estab- 
lished in  1818,  after  the  suppression  of 
the  order  of  Templars.  We  enter  a 
tunnd  near  Fuente  de  la  Higuera, 
some  16  metres  long,  and  arrive  at 

Almansa. — (8900  inhabitants.  Junc- 
tion for  Alicante )  A  Moorish  dilapidated 
castle  on  the  N.W.  heights.  Cele- 
brated for  the  battle  won  hj  Philip  V/s 


MADRID — ITS  HISTORT. 


3ff7 


Kmdrld^Pop.  1S60,  298,428.)— Ii 
plaoed  militariljr  undar  ths  jiiilidiction 
of  ft  cKptaln-gmanl ;  ■dminiatntlrely, 
under  tba  order*  of  &  gobenudor  ciril, 
wbieh  uiawen  to  the  French  taifcct; 
tnd  of  ui  ticftlde  comgidor  (lonl 
mayor),  who  ii  at  tlie  haul  of  the  onrpo- 
ntlon,  b1  BjuntunioDto,  ths  rcTenaea 
of  which  tra  Dotuidenbly  cnrtuled  bj 
the  abaorptioa  by  goreniment  of  the 
donehoi  de  pnertM,  which  nallj  spper- 
tain  to  it!  fnod. 

Bidar/.—Ot  the  carlj  hittoij  of 
Madrid  we  know  tittle  or  oothing,  Mve 
that  when  Toledo  fell  iato  the  hands 
of  the  Aimbe  it  became  an  adnuoed 
INMt  to  that  city.  They  called  it 
UAibib,  and  In  the  chronicle  of  Sam- 
plro  It  i*  mentioned  a«  MiueriL  It 
waa  strongly  fortifiHt,  but  finally  talcen 
and  nnd,  939,  hj  Don  Ramiro  IL  of 
Leon ;  waa  wraeted  a  second  time  by 
the  Hoon ;  peopled  chiefly  by  Mot- 
aralies,  and  reoorered  by  Alfonso  Till., 
1083.  The  town  was  dtnated  to  the 
W^  and  crowned  the  height!  over- 
hanging  Um  Hanxanarea.  The  walla 
extended  Irotn  the  strong  Pnerta  da  la 
Tegi,  by  the  TIatlllaa,  to  Pnerta  de 


Ifonx,  that  looted  towudi  Toledo,  ■ 
quarter  which  was  mbaeiineiitly  allotted 
to  the  Moors  and  Jews.  Tbey  then 
foUowed  by  the  street  itiU  called  Caba 
Bay*  (a  deep  or  low  ditch),  at  the 
exttemityaf  which  was  Pnerta  Cenada, 
with  a  dragon  or  serpent  ecnlptared 
upon  i^  continning  by  the  Casa  Juan 
Mignel,  Puerta  de  Qaadal^ani,  which 
was  the  finett,  and  placed  in  the  centre 
of  the  present  pUterias.  On  the  bill 
now  ceiled  Caeata  and  Plamela  de  8L 
Domingo  stood  sereral  watch-towen, 
and  another  gate  called  pab-el-Hadnr. 
In  the  ISth  century  the  dty  extended 
mora  towards  the  E.,  in  those  parik 
where  now  stand  the  cfanrches  of  8an 
Martin  and  San  Qine*^  and  towards  the 
S.  to  San  FranciMC.  In  those  days, 
orar  the  preaent  arid  plains  eitanded  ' 
thick  forests  of  oaka,  chestnnta^  and 
madronos  (strawberry-tree),  infested 
with  bears,  wolvea,  and  other  wild 
beasta,  tfaos  aflbtding  excoUent  hunting 
and  shooting  to  ei^oy  which  tlie  kings 
of  Castile  often  repaired  to  Madrid.  It 
must  hars  been  then  a  city  of  aome 
importance,  as  it  was  often  ohoaen  for 
the  conrocation  of  the  Cortes,  sad  the 
coronation  of  king* ;  howerer,  it 
tssnmed  no  well-maAad  iodiridnal 
importance  nntil  the  ISA  century, 
when  it  became  the  constant  reddenee 
of  Charles  T.  The  climate  was  well 
suited  to  the  inSrmitiea  of  the  emperor; 
and  another  monarch,  Sancho  IT.,  had 
already  redded  hers  for  the  sake  of  its 
tQTigorating  '  aires.*  Tboogb  Toledo 
was  then  the  conrt  and  cspitsl,  the 
emperor  often  preferred  the  sojonm  of 
the  quiet  hanting-box  of  Madrid  ;  and 
the  electioii  of  tiii*  city  as  the  tnetio- 
polis  of  the  kingdom  »»•  not  Philip 
II. 'i  idea,  but  had  long  prerailed  in  the 
mind  of  hia  father  (Cabrera,  '  Hist  de 
Felipe'  Brando,'  book  v.  c.  9).  At 
thismonsich'a  InstigaUMi,  strengthened 
by  the  Ticini^  of  the  Esoorial,  in  which 


258 


MADRID — H0TEIJ3. 


ho  had  retolved  mostiy  to  liye»  Philip 
11.  dedared  Madrid  the  only  court  of 
the  kingdom,  (Jnica  Corte  (1560).  This 
moat  wise  and  politic  measore  has  often 
caoaed  anrprise  in  thote  who  haye  over- 
looked  the  aeriona  reasona  that  dictated 
it  The  unification  of  the  monarchy 
could  he  achieved  only  hy  the  centralia- 
ation  of  power ;  and  with  the  hope  of 
aheorhing  all  hoatile  feeling  then  ao 
prevalent  between  provincea,  hethoug^t 
it  wise  to  select  a  city  free  from  local 
traditions,  and  for  that  reason  more 
willingly  acceptable  to  alL  Great  pro- 
jecta  were  planned,  the  realisation  of 
which  would  have  confirmed  thia  aelec- 
tion ;  but  the  death  of  the  king  and 
aubsequent  reigna  impeded  their  being 
carried  out  Philip  111.  removed  his 
court  to  Yalladolid,  but  the  intereats 
already  created  in  Madrid  were  too 
powerful  now  to  admit  of  such  a  change, 
and  the  climate  of  Yalladolid  was 
moreover  ill  suited  to  the  king.  Philip 
Y.  and  Charlea  III.  conaiderably  en- 
laiged  the  city,  and  added  many  useful 
public  works,  edifices,  and  monuments. 
During  the  French  occupation  of  Mad- 
rid aeveral  projects  of  amelioration  and 
embellishment  were  planned,  which,  if 
realised,  would  have  considerably  im- 
proved the  capital 

The  city  arma  (see  page  257)  are  : 
a  tree  vert,  with  fruit  gules,  up  which 
a  beur  is  climbing,  an  orb  azure,  with 
eight  stars  aigent,  and  over  the  ailver 
escutcheon  a  royal  crown,  which  last 
waa  granted  by  Charlea  Y.  in  1544. 
The  city  is  styled  '  Imperial  y  coronada, 
muy  noble  y  muy  leiX'  to  which  Fer- 
dinand Yll.,  in  1814,  added  *y  muy 
heroico.' 

Madrid  riaes  on  the  slopes  and  sur- 
face of  a  plateau  formed  by  sandy 
limestone  hills,  on  a  plain  which  is 
bounded  N.K.K  by  the  Somoeierra,  and 
N.W.  by  the  Guadarrama  range  of  hilU, 
which    latter  are   capped  with  anow 


during  winter.  The  Manzanares  girds 
it  to  the  W.  and  S.W.  It  is  the  lesi- 
denoe  of  the  courts  Metropolis  de  laa 
Espa&as,  captaincy-general  of  Caatilla 
la  Nueva  and  a  bishop's  see,  suffragan 
of  Toledo  (a  concession  of  the  last  con- 
cordat with  Rome). 

Hotela.— L  Cfrand  ffdUl  de  Fa/ri*, 
Puerto  del  Sol,  kept  by  Sr.  Fallola, 
owner  of  the  best  hotels  in  Cadiz  and 
Seville  ;  admirably  aitnated  ;  exten- 
sive accommodation  ;  charges  high,  but 
the  best  herei 

%  De  lot  liineipes^  Puerto  dd  Sol, 
which  is  tlie  most  central  part  of  the 
capital,  kept  by  Madame  St  Simon. 
Chaigea  high,  and  according  to  the 
floor,  aspect,  etc;  no  room  under  50r. 
a-day,  meals  included ;  well  furnished 
and  comfortoble ;  cuisine  excellent 
The  side  on  the  square  very  animated, 
but  noisy.  1  f  during  the  winter,  choose 
a  southern  aspect,  and  a  room  with  a 
fireplace.  An  English  interpreter,  and 
French  and  Spanish  laquais  de  place, 
20r.  a-day. 

3.  De  las  Quatro  Nacwnes,  Calle  del 
Arenal ;  good  and  comfortable,  and  near 
Puerto  del  SoL 

i.  ffdlel  de  loe  Embt^f  adores,  Calle 
de  la  Yictoria,  with  view  on  the 
Carreni  de  San  Geronimo  ;  comfortoble 
and  well-f^imished  rooma  ;  chai^gea  not 
very  high  ;  good  situation. 

5.  ffdtelde  France,  CaHe  del  Crmen^ 
close  to  Puerto  del  Sol ;  small  apart- 
ments, charges  moderate. 

N.B. — The  wines  at  these  hotels  are 
dear  and  of  inferior  quality  ;  good  pale 
ale,  porter,  and  tolerable  liqueurs. 

Lodgings, — Colled  Casas  de  Jluespedes 
(kuesped,  a  guest),  a  sort  of  boarding- 
house,  where,  for  a  fixed  price,  var3ring 
from  20r.  to  50r.  a-day,  everything 
included,  parties  can  get  a  very  decent 
room,  two  meals  a-day,  and  attend- 
ance (for  the  latter  2r.  extra  are  usually 
paid  a-day).      The  foUovring  partake 


MADRID — THE  GFTT. 


259 


of  the  comforts  found  in  hotels,  and, 
though  tho  dearest,  are  the  best^  in 
Madrid.  Similar  establishments,  but 
of  inferior  accommodation,  and  at 
reduced  chaiy^es^  are  daily  advertised 
in  the  local  papers,  espedally  in  the 
'Diario,'  or  'Boletin  de  Avisos.'  La, 
Viam4aMk^  now  Hdtel  de  Inc^terra, 
Galle  Mayor  No.  1,  close  to  Puerta  dd 
Sol,  the  beet  lodgings  in  Madrid ;  much 
frequented  by  English  visitors;  good 
rooms,  rather  high  to  ascend ;  cooking 
tolerable,  88r.,  all  included.  At  No. 
10  Calle  de  AlcaU,  kept  by  a  French 
landlady  ;  has  the  advantage  of  being 
situated  over  the  Restaurant  del  Cisne, 
which  is  one  of  the  best  No.  5,  Calle 
de  Preciados,  kept  by  Don  Casimiro ; 
French  cuisine ;  85r.  to  60r.  a-day. 
At  Carrera  de  San  Qeronimo  in  the 
new  houses  opposite  to  Lhardy's,  pastry- 
cook ;  excellent  situation  and  comfort- 
able rooms  ;  cooking  Spanish,  and  in- 
different ;  80r.  a-day.  N,B, — Meals, 
whether  taken  or  not,  are  usually  paid 
for  in  the  bilL 

If  intending  to  reside  some  time,  it 
will  be  advisable  to  take  an  apartment 
with  or  without  furniture,  according 
to  the  conditions.  The  latter  may  be 
hired  by  the  month  or  year  at  mode- 
rate prices.  The  beet  apartments, 
pcwr  gar^on^  are  situated  in  Plaza  de 
Oriente  (choose  the  side  with  a  southern 
aspect),  Plazuela  de  Bilbao^  Calle  del 
Arena],  etc 

Bostaurants :  Cc^i  Ewropeo. — Calle 
de  Sevilla,  Nos.  4  and  6,  on  the  ground 
floor ;  coffee-room  and  private  cabinets 
k  la  carte,  or  for  80r.  a-head,  vin  ordi- 
naire included ;  good  pale  ale,  and  ex- 
cellent porter ;  pure  Yaldepefiias  for  8r. 
a  bottle ;  first-rate  beeistesks  and  mut- 
ton chops,  good  French  cuisine  and 
tolerable  wines.  Cafi  Suixo,  same 
street,  Na  7,  on  the  entresol,  80r. 
a-head  k  la  carte;  usual  hours  for 
dining^  during  the  winter  season,  half- 


past  6  to  8 ;  breakfasts  k  la  carte. 
'Galignani'  and  French  papers  taken 
in  at  both  establishments.  Fcmda  dd 
CwfM.-X)aUe  AlcaU  Nos.  18  and  20 ; 
au  prmwUr,  20r.  a-head,  and  k  la 
carte;  private  rooms.  JJunrdy. — Car- 
rera San  Geronimo,  Na  12 ;  excellent 
French  pastry-cook ;  good  liqueurs ; 
wines  and  beer  dear  and  inferior.  Ter- 
rines  de  foie  gras,  Yorkshire  hamn, 
luncheons,  very  well  furnished  rooms 
for  dinners  ordered  beforehand.  Din- 
ners for  lOr.,  wine  included,  at  Fonda 
del  Carmen  ;  for  8r.,  Fmda  de  Madrid, 
Calle  de  los  Negros ;  and  even  for  Or. 
Fonda  Americana,  Calle  del  Caballero 
de  Grada,  which  includes  soup^  three 
dishes,  dessert^  half -pint  of  wine, 
etc 

Fonda  Penmndar.—CeXit  de  Alcali, 
No.  16 ;  a  very  old  establishment ;  good 
situation;  dinners,  14r.  a-head,  two 
tablet  d'hote ;  1st  at  6  o'clock,  and  9d 
at  7. 


General  Desoription.— Madrid,  not- 
withstanding the  most  unfavourable 
circumstances  that  can  check  the  pros- 
perity of  a  metropolis — such  as  a  great 
elevation,  an  almost  waterless  river,  an 
arid,  sandy  soil,  and  an  isolated  situa- 
tion amid  treeless  and  wind-blown 
plains,  to  which  may  be  added  the  ne- 
glect of  Qovemment,  the  paralysation 
of  private  enterprise^  and  other  disas- 
trous effects  with  which  continued 
political  disturbances  are  usually  at- 
tended— has  now,  with  the  rest  of 
Spanish  cities  and  the  country  at  large, 
fairly  entered  the  path  of  progress,  «nd 
bids  fair  to  become  shortly  one  of  the 
handsomest  and  most  ^t)6perous  capi- 
tals of  Europe  The  suppression  of 
convents,  the  Law  of  Desamortizadon, 
and  subsequent  sale  of  church  and  part 
of  the  secular  property,  as  well  as  the 
reform  of  the  municipal  corporatiuo* 


260 


MADRID — THB  STREETS. 


tnd  the  eiiAotiiient  of  new  regalfttioiie 
eonoernlng  the  police^  public  heeltb, 
eta,  have  oertainlj  been  powerftil 
CMuee  in  phudng  Kediid  in  ao  proe- 
perooi  a  coone ;  but  it  ia  principally 
indebted  for  this  to  the  now  poieible 
and  already  mnoh  extending  and  na- 
tnraliied  companies  of  credit,  which 
were  called  to  life  under  the  Progresista 
Ministry.  These  have  by  their  Tigour- 
oos  initiatiTe  succeeded  in  spreading  a 
network  of  raflways  oyer  Spain,  of 
which  Madrid  has  been  made  the 
centre ;  and  they,  moreoyer,  haye 
SBsiited,  with  their  capitals,  goyem- 
ment,  and  speculators,  in  realising 
works  of  great  public  utility  and  im- 
proyement  Thus  the  capital  has  been 
placed  in  direct  communication  with 
the  Mediterranean  by  the  Alicante, 
Yalencia,  and  Barcelona  lines;  with 
the  AtUntio  by  the  Santander,  Bilbao, 
and  San  Sebastian  railways ;  and  with 
P<»tugal  by  Badijoz,  which  line  is  to 
be  yery  soon  completed.  Madrid  has 
been  made  the  axis  of  a  wheel  from 
which  the  many  main  lines  diyerge, 
like  spokes  that  reach  to  the  extremi- 
ties of  the  kingdom ;  and  by  this  means 
the  yaried  articles  of  commerce  belong- 
ing to  the  kingdom  haye  been  rendered 
eairily  come-at-able.  All  the  necessaries 
and  luxuries  of  life^  whether  imported 
from  the  proyinces  or  from  abroad,  are 
now  obtained  in  greater  abundance  and 
at  lower  prices  than  before.  Tele- 
graphic wires  also  connect  the  metro- 
polis with  eyery  laige  city  within  the 
kingdom,  thus  affording  to  Qoyemment 
the  power  of  exercising  a  comprehensiye 
and  effeotiye  action  oyer  the  proyinces. 
Drought,  which  had  been  heretofore  a 
permanent  cause  of  ill-health,  and  the 
great  obstacle  to  the  embellishment  of 
the  town,  and  eyen  to  the  amelioration 
of  its  climate  (by  maJdng  impossible 
the  ]^antations  necesssiy  to  counteract 
its  noxious  influenoe),  is  now  no  longer 


to  be  dreaded,  since  a  yery  abundant 
snpidy  of  beautiful  dear  water  has  been 
brought  from  the  Losoya,  a  riyer  that 
rises  some  12  leagues  (42  m.)  off,  under 
the  Ouadarruna,  and  numerous  ]^anta- 
tions  haye  consequently  been  made, 
squares  establish^  and  yillas  and 
gardens  sprung  up  in  all  directions. 
Large  stores  and  seyeral  manufiustories 
haye  been  established.  Seyeral  com- 
panies, with  laige  capital  subscribed 
by  respectable  firms,  haye  been  set  on 
foot  for  the  exdusiye  purpose  of  build- 
ing houses  and  opening  new  quarters 
in  and  around  Madrid ;  and  from  all 
these  causes  the  population  increased 
to  such  an  extent  that  Qoyemment 
deemed  it  expedient  to  issue  a  Royal 
Decree  (July  19,  1860),  by  which  the 
boundaries  of  the  dty  (an  area  of 
15,558  yaras)  were  to  be  extended  by 
8500  acres  more.  The  yalne  of  pro- 
perty, a  sure  sign  of  prosperity,  has  of 
late  years  so  considerably  increased  that 
ground  situated  in  the  central  portion 
has  been  sold  at  public  auction  for  £2 
to  £8  the  square  foot 

As  to  the  general  appearance  of  Ma- 
drid, we  may  state  that  it  has  little  or 
nothing  Spanish  about  it  There  are 
no  yestiges  of  the  Moorish,  medisyal, 
or  brilliant  periods  of  Spanish  art ;  no 
cathedral,  strange  to  say,  nor  churches 
containing  objects  of  art  to  interest  the 
tourist ;  and  the  few  monuments  and 
public  edifices  that  exist  were  erected 
in  a  period  of  decadence,  when  the 
churriguresque  and  rococo  were  all  the 
fashion,  and  mariced  the  likewise  fallen 
spirit  oif  the  age  and  court  The  artist, 
howeyer,  may  turn  aside  frtnn  these  to 
deyote  his  time  and  admiration  to  the 
magnificent  picture-gallery,  which  con- 
stitutes, with  the  royal  palac^  the  em- 
phatic feature  of  Madrid,  and  admits  no 
equal  in  the  worid. 

The  ttntU  are  wide,  dean,  weO 
payed,    and    well    lighted;    spadou 


MADRID— PUERTO  DSL  SOL. 


261 


■qnares  have  been  laid  out  with  trees 
md  ornamented  with  gnus -plots, 
flowers,  and  fountains ;  the  new  shops 
in  some  streets  almost  riyal  those  of 
Paris.  The  houses,  with  the  exception 
the  grandees'  mansions  and  some  other 
jiriyate  ones,  are  loftj,  with  ginger- 
bread plaster  frontages,  painted  in  the 
gayest  colours.  They  are  mostly  built 
on  speculation,  and  are  let  out  for  lodg- 
ings, and  hold  sereral  £unilies  having 
the  same  staircase  in  oonmion,  as  in 
Paris.  They  are  well  provided  with 
fireplaoes  and  water,  and  remarkable 
for  the  Flemish  cleanliness  and  pecu- 
liar luxe  displayed  in  the  stucco 
entranoe-hall  and  winding  staircases. 
There  is  great  life  and  movement  in 
the  streets ;  and  though  the  population 
has  a  European  character  in  its  dress, 
some  picturesque  costumes  may  yet  be 
seen  here  and  there,  and  the  mantilla 
and  cloak  havenotaltogether  disappeared 
before  the  invading  French  bonnet.  The 
toilettes  at  the  theatres,  and  the  Paris 
ium-^nU$  and  English  horses  at  the 
Fuente  Oastellana,  exhibit  an  amount 
of  wealthy  taste^  and  outlay  unparalleled 
in  any  other  city  of  the  same  sixe  in 
Europe. 

The  Puertadd  Sol  is  the  most  central 
part  of  Madrid,  and  the  heart  of  the 
dty.  From  it  diveige  the  principal 
streets,  which  are  the  broad  and  hand- 
some Calls  de  AlcaUL,  running  parallel 
with  the  Carrera  de  San  Geronimo, 
which  leads  direct  to  the  picture-gallery. 
The  Galle  de  Carretas,  almost  opposite 
to  the  steep  and  old-fashioned  Chile  de 
la  Montera,  from  the  top  of  which  four 
streets  branch — viz.,  the  Horalexa  and 
Fuencanel  parallel  to  each  other,  and 
at  the  sides  the  Caballero  de  Grada, 
which  emeiges  in  tho  Galle  de  Alcala, 
and  the  Jacometreso,  ending  in  Galle 
Aneha  de  San  Bernardo.  The  OaUe 
M^orand  del  Arenal  lead  to  the  palace. 
The  longest  street  is  the  Galle  de  Atooha, 


which  begins  at  Plan  Mayor,  and  ends 
dose  to  the  Alicante  and  Zangon  rail- 
way terminus.  The  best  stleeti  for 
shops  are  Garrera  de  San  Geronimo^ 
Gairetas  La  Montera,  and  Postas.  The 
street  where  the  most  numerous  gran- 
dees' and  handsome  private  housec  are 
to  be  seen  is  the  Galle  Ancha  de  San 
Bernardo.  The  Plaza  Mayor  and  Plaza 
de  Oriente  are  the  finest  squares,  the 
first  generally  frequented  by  the  lower 
classes.  The  Galle  de  Toledo  is  the 
most  Spanish-looking  street  in  the  capi- 
tal ;  and  the  adjacent  quarters,  inhabited 
by  the  lower  orders — such  as  El  Lava- 
pies,  Rastro,  Barrio  Kuevo,  together 
with  the  parish  of  San  Andres,  San 
Frandsoo  et  Grande,  and  the  old  Mo- 
reria  (district  or  looUity  fonnerly  al- 
lotted to  the  Moor8)~form  the  older 
portion  of  the  dty,  which  overhangs  the 
Manzanares.  The  new  barrios  or  quar- 
ters tend  rather  towards  the  suburbs  of 
Ghambery,  Ganal,  and  gate  of  AloaU. 
The  principal  villages  around  Madrid 
are  Ckrabanchd  (divided  into  hi^er 
and  lower  portions),  Ghambeiy,  San 
Iddro,  and  El  Pardo. 

The  Season  at  Madrid  begins  about 
the  middle  of  October,  and  ends  in 
March.  The  Gastilians^  as  a  race,  are 
a  grave,  sedate  people  ;  but  the  Madri- 
le&os,  though  Gsstellanoe  also,  depart 
from  this  rule,  and  the  liveliniBss, 
sprightliness,  and  gaiety  of  these  self- 
called  '  Gates  de  Madrid '  are  equal  to 
their  love  for  pleasure,  fondness  <^show, 
otUo,  and  thdr/iirui  for  theatricals  and 
pageants.  It  may  be  truly  afllrmed  that 
as  God  worked  dx  days  and  rested  on 
the  seventh,  Madrile&os  rest  the  six, 
and  on  the  seventh  .  .  .  go  to  the 
buU-fi^t ;  d  lo$  toTO$t  Indeed,  such  is 
their  longing  for  exdtement,  that  they 
will  go  without  their  fn/chtro  rather 
than  miss  the  new  drama  at  Ndvedadei^ 
not  attend  the  prooesdon  on  Good  Fri- 
day, or  ei^oy  the  horrors  of  such  stirring 


262 


MAT)RTD — S0CIB1T. 


ipectaoles  m  an  execution  with  el  gar' 
ft)<«  at  the  Oampo  de  Goardias.  There 
are  not  less  than  twelre  theatres  and 
dronses,  which  are  usually  crowded  ; 
and  as  Spaniards  like  music  and  under- 
stand it,  the  Italian  and  national  opera 
comique  {la  aarsuela)  are  in  great  vogue, 
and  the  companies  first-rate. 

OanUval  iB  the  gayest  period  in  the 
year,  and  tourists  must  not  fail  to  re- 
sort then  to  the  Prado  on  the  three 
glorious  days  of  public  merriment,  when 
half  the  population  turns  out  de  mas- 
earn,  to  'intrigue*  and  'chaff'  the  other 
half,  all  in  Uie  pleasantest  and  most 
good-humoured  way ;  for  it  is  a  charac- 
teristio  of  this  people,  that  in  all  popular 
outbursts,  at  fites,  bull-fights,  races,  or 
elsewhere,  riots,  drunken  men,  black 
eyes,  blacklegs,  and  blackguards,  are 
seldom  to  be  seen,  and  all  and  each  ob- 
serre  a  dignified  deportment,  and  pay 
great  respect  to  authority.  To  those 
that  are  acquainted  with  London, 
Vienna,  or  Paris  fSut  lif^  there  will  be 
here  little  to  amuse,  and  Madrid  must 
proTe  a  '  slow '  place.  The  promenade 
to  the  Prado,  and  driye  to  tiie  Fuente 
Oastellana ;  the  opera  in  the  erening,  or 
a  Tisit  to  the  theatres,  and  now  and  then 
a  ball  at  court,  a  mririe  danaanie  at  a 
foreign  minister's,  or  one  or  two  baU 
eotlwmi9—mxch  are  the  events  in  a  Ma- 
drid man's  life.  Add  to  the  Ust  the 
usual  daily  round  ottertulias,  and  now 
and  then  a  canter  across  a  denuded, 
hedgeless  oountiy,  after,  and  often  be- 
fore, some  hungry,  vagabondising  hare. 
The  coiino  is  the  usual  pUce  of  resort 
after  the  theatre.  It  is  well  situated, 
and  comfortable,  and  firequented  by 
good  society.  There  is  a  good  deal  of 
gambling  at  the  trenU'et-qwunamte 
tables ;  and,  although  most  that  play 
are  ea^Uroe  por  loe  euairo  coetadoe, 
there  may  be,  now  and  then,  a  few  ex- 
ceptions, and  we  advise  our  readers  to 
abstain  and  look  on. 


The  blame  of  want  of  hospitality, 
which  is  so  freely  lavished  on  Spaniards, 
IB  not,  on  the  whole,  a  just  one.  The 
Spaniard  is  a  man  of  his  home  ;  he  is 
fond  of  an  intimate  drde  of  fHends,  in 
whose  society  he  can  live  without  gine, 
think  aloud,  say  what  he  pleases,  and 
dress  as  he  likes.  Intimate  fHenda  are 
engaged  once  for  all  to  dine  with  each 
other  on  a  particular  day,  every  week  ; 
and  the  dinners,  usually  cooked  by 
French  artistes,  are  first-rate.  Strangers 
invading  this  intimate  coterie,  or  (ar- 
ttUia,  and  expecting  the  white  choker 
round  one's  neck,  and  round  one's 
thoughts — strangers,  elesCi^ngero,  those 
natural  foes  to  all  Eastern  nations,  who 
would  criticise  the  faulty  French  spoken 
for  their  sake,  and  laugh  at  the  habits  of 
the  people— these  are  not  invited  as 
often  as  they  might  expect  Were  they 
to  show  greater  tact,  and  more  courtesy 
towards  little /ai62MM«^  they  would  de- 
rive both  pleasure  and  advantage,  and 
share  the  easy,  courteous,  open-hearted 
society  of  well-bred  Spaniards,  who  will 
always  give  place,  and  be  the  first  to 
know  and  state  the  truth  about  them- 
selves and  their  country.  As  to  the 
rest,  society,  in  manners,  dress,  etc,  is 
here  what  it  is  in  liondon  or  Paris ;  and 
we  must  lay  aside  antiquated  notions 
and  romantic  impressions,  which  may 
have  been  acquired  f^rom  recollections  of 
11  Barbiere  di  SivigHa  in  London. 

There  is  little  or  no  art  in  Madrid. 
An  exhibition,  more  of  pretty  UriUUa 
than  of  pictures,  takes  place  once  a-year 
at  the  'Trinidad ;'  but  with  this  ex- 
ception, the  few  artists  that  are  meet 
with  no  protection  or  encouragement 
of  any  sort,  and  the  picture-gallery  is 
always  deserted.  Literature  is  at  its 
lowest  ebb.  Spaniards,  engaged  until 
now  in  serious  political  dissensions  and 
civil  war,  which  were  constantly  menac- 
ing their  property  and  lives,  have  not 
had  leisure  to  attend  to  faitellechial 


MADRID — THB  ROYAL  PALAOB. 


263 


imrfoits ;  md  letters  am  the  priTil^ 
ot^Umamaimn,  distingaished  wiiten 
themaelyee,  who^  like  the  Duke  of  Riras 
and  Karqiiie  of  MoliiiB»  open  their 
hooaet  now  md  then  to  entertain  liUirar 
Um%  and  disouas  the  new  French  or 
Italian  worka.  On  the  adrent  of  anm- 
mer,  all  who  can  afford  it  leave  Madrid, 
which  IB  then  converted  into  a  fomaoe, 
and  paaa  2offoi2or«i  either  at  the  Esoorial 
and  La  Granja,  or.  farther  off^  at  San 
Sebastian  or  Valencia.  Then  linen 
awnings  are  stretched  over  every  win- 
dow and  nwrodor.  During  the  day, 
between  10  ▲.!!.  and  5  p.m.,  no  homan 
being  is  to  be  seen  in  tiie  streets, 
except,  perhaps,  as  the  proverb  has  it, 
'nnperro6nnfranc^'  People  in  that 
season  dine  at  foor,  and  afterwards  take 
a  iiuta.  From  0  to  12  at  night  the 
Prado  becomes  crowded.  The  gas- 
lamps  are  lighted ;  large  iron  ann-chairs 
lie  scattered  in  circles  for  terUUuu  al 
aire,  and  people,  for  the  first  time  in 
the  day,  are  able  to  open  their  months 
without  too  excmdaUng  an  effort  A 
line  of  open  carriages,  dragged  lazily 
alcmg  by  hoTses  with  drooping  ears,  and 
still  at  their  siesta,  winds  at  a  foot*s- 
pace  along  the  still-heated  iron  railings, 
leaning  over  which  are  beardless  Don 
Jnans  and  sentimental  Trovatores,  in 
li^t  alpacas,  who  listlessly  watch  las 
nifias  as  they  pass,  and  now  cast  a 
glance  of  recognition,  or  smile  in  token 
of  respectful  admiration.  The  Madrid 
rising  generation  are  called  '  poUoa,'  as 
being  all  unfledged  pullets ;  many  of 
them  are  a  '  mauvaise  imitation  du 
mauvaise  genre  franfais,'  but  most  are 
inoffensive  Inpeds,  and  more  amusing 
than  mischievous. 

Boyal  Palaoe. — It  is  seen  with  per- 
mission {papMa)  from  the  mayor-domo 
or  from  the  Intendente  de  la  Casa 
Real ;  apply  with  card  and  passport ; 
it  can  be  inspected  only  when  the 
^lartments  are  unoccupied,  and  then 


on  every  day  except  holidays.  #9*  The 
entrance  to  the  chapel  is  free.  To  visit 
the  stables,  apply  to  the  master  of  the 
horse,  Caballerizo  Mayor  (  ) : 

but  a  silver  key  will  open  that  door,  for 
the  porter  is  not  a  Oerberus.  As  to  the 
libruy,  it  is  hermetically  sealed.  Apart 
lh»m  this,  the  PaUce  of  Madrid  is, 
beyond  doubt,  one  of  the  finest  in 
Europe  :  it  is  built  on  the  site  of  the 
Alcasares  that  stood  in  the  10th  and 
11th  centuries,  the  last  of  which  was 
destroyed  by  an  earthquake  ;  and  of  a 
former  palace  built  by  Henry  lY.,  en- 
larged hj  Charles  Y.  in  1567,  embel- 
lished by  Philip  11.  and  completed  by 
Philip  III.,  who  added  a  fa^e,  which 
was  a  masterpiece  of  architecture,  and 
the  joint  work  of  the  great  masters,  the 
Toledos,  Herrerss^  Moraa^  Luis,  and 
Gaspar  de  Y^ga,  etc.  The  reception- 
hall,  170  ft  long,  the  wonderful  picture- 
gallery  (which,  among  other  gems,  con- 
tained the  Torre  Horada  of  Titian)— 
the  Guarda  Joyas^  or  Regalia,  among 
which  was  a  diamond  of  an  enormous 
sixe  worth  200,000  ducats ;  a  pearl  as 
big  as  a  nut,  called  La  Huerfana  (the 
OrphanX  from  its  being  unique,  worth 
80,000  ducats  a  considerable  sum  for 
that  time ;  and  a  wonderful  fleur-de-lis 
in  gold— all  these  and  many  other  mar- 
vels, which  existed  at  the  beginning  of 
the  reign  of  Philip  lY.,  were  unfortu- 
nately destroyed  in  a  fire  which  took 
place  on  Christmss  night  1784,  and 
consumed  the  whole  building.  Full 
details  of  these  may  be  found  in  Davila's 
'Teatro  de  las  Grandesas  de  Madrid.' 
Philip  Y.,  that  pale  counterfeit  of  Louis 
XI Y.,  resolved  on  building  a  new  palace 
that  would  eclipse  Yersailles.  He  sent 
to  the  court  of  Turin  for  the  celetoited 
architect,  the  Abbate  Jubarra,  who  de- 
signed a  palace  which  was  to  be  situated 
on  the  heights  of  San  Bernardino^  and 
such  as  had  never  been  seen  to  that  day. 
It  was  to  be  a  square  edifice^  of  tha. 


204 


MADBID — THB  BOTAL  PALAC& 


Cofliporite  order,  to  bave  foor  h/fttiet, 
cieh  1700  ft  kn^  tiurtj-fboreBtmieei, 
2000  |ifllan»  twcotj-tlme  eomta,  gtf- 
dca%  a  theatre,  eltiircbe%  and  public 
ofllcea  in  faet^  a  town  of  palaeea, 
ntther  tiian  one  alone ;  an  idea  of  which 
m^  be  gathered  from  a  email  model 
now  in  the  Qaleria  Topc^gnfica.  Bot 
kinga,  often  great  boilden,  areaeldom 
good  arehitecte,  and  Philip  crippled  the 
genina  of  Jobarra,  changed  both  his 
plan  and  situation,  preferring  the  pre- 
sent site  to  that  which  he  had  soggested, 
and  which  was  superior  in  ererj  respect. 
Bot  before  he  had  b^gon  the  works,  the 
Abbate  died,  and  designated  for  his 
sncoeaior  (for  genios  is  also  royalty), 
his  coon  try  uian  Qiorsmbattista  Sachet- 
ti,  a  natire  of  Torin.  This  architect, 
more  a  courtier  than  an  independent 
artist,  altered  his  predecessor's  plans, 
noalding  them  to  the  king's  fancy,  and 
employed  his  ingenuity  in  taming  to 
good  aocoont  the  declirity  and  nneren- 
ness  of  the  ground,  thus  gaining  in 
depth  and  height  what  was  lost  in  ex- 
tent and  breadth. 

The  first  stone  was  Uid  April  7th, 
1787.  It  was  first  inhabited  by  Charles 
III.  (1764),  who  added  the  two  salient 
pavilions  at  the  anglea,  and  two  wings, 
at  each  side  of  the  principal  Isfsde, 
which  hare  remained  unfinished.  The 
cost  amounted  then  to  £800,000,  with- 
out the  foundations.  The  building 
forms  a  square  471  ft,  and  100  high  ; 
it  belongs  to  the  Tuscan  style ;  the  base 
is  of  granite,  and  the  upper  portion  of 
the  beautiful  white  stone  of  Colmenar, 
which  resembles  marble.  It  is  com- 
posed of  three  storeys  ;  the  lower  one  is 
plain,  serere,  and  massire ;  that  tbore 
is  made  lighter  by  means  of  columns 
and  semi-attached  pillars,  of  Doric  and 
Ionic  style,  diriding  a  row  of  balconiea, 
high  and  narrow,  and  crowned  by  a 
triangular  fh)ntispieoe  alternately  with 
a  droolar  one ;  the  third,  and  upper 


storey,  eoosists  of  small,  aqvaia^  paltiy 
windowBw  A  wide 
tiie  top^and  oner  it  ia  a  i 
on  the  pedestal  of  which  stand  roeoeo 
which  were  suhstitnted  far  the 
Mries  of  statufit  of  kings  and 
qiieen%  now  deeorating  the  Flaadel 
Oriente,  and  remoTed  on  aeeomt  of 
thdr  i^eat  weight  The  roof  ia  of 
slates^  and  crowded  with  fteJbarrfiTfai, 
(attics  or  ganets)  where  lire  a  dense 
population  of  pendoned  inralid  flunkeys, 
and  swarma  of  well-doing  pigeons. 

TJU  prine^MU/ofads  is  to  the  sooth, 
and  consists  of  fire  ingreases;  that 
to  tiie  £.,  on  Plaza  de  Oriente,  is 
caDed  'del  Principe  ;'  it  ia  always  used 
by  the  royal  family,  except  the  queen, 
who  sometimes  kares  the  palace  by  the 
south  end  to  enjoy  her  daily  drire  at 
6  o'clock.  She  lires  in  the  rifjbt  aisle ; 
the  king^s  apartmenta  orerhang  the 
Campo  del  M<Ht>,with  a  distant  yiew  of 
the  Purdo,  and  the  Guadarrama  range. 
This  entrance  also  leads  to  the  foreign 
office  and  church.  The  walls  on  the 
S.  and  eastern  side  rise  ItK)  ft,  but 
from  the  uneren  ground  those  towards 
the  rirer  are  more  than  twice  that 
height  The  northern  entrance  is  con- 
sidered  the  most  efTectiTe,  and  so  think 
also  the  unfortunate  sentriee,  many  of 
whom  are  fh>zen  to  death  during  the 
winter  months,  especially  those  on 
guard  at  the  Punta  del  Diamante. 

In  the  centre  is  a  'Patio,'  140  ft 
square  and  surrounded  by  an  open  por- 
tico compoeed  of  thirty-six  arc^ee,  and 
aa  many  abore  which  form  a  gallery 
with  glass  windows :  in  this  court  are 
four  large  statues  of  the  four  Roman 
Emperors — who  were  natiyes  of  Spain 
viz.,  Tn^an,  Adrian,  Honorius,  and 
Theodosiua--all  indifferent ;  indeed  the 
patio  is  so^  and  moreorer  cold  and  de- 
nuded. 

Th€  grcmd  $Utiream  is  magnificent^  of 
white  and  black  marble^  and  rises  op- 


MADRID— PAIAGS. 


265 


posite  to  an  indifferent  ttatne  of  Charles 
III.  The  marble  lions  are  finely  exe- 
cuted. On  Napoleon's  entering  this 
palace  for  the  first  time  in  1808,  he  is 
said  to  haye  exclaimed,  while  eagerly 
placing  his  hand  on  one  of  them,  '  Je  la 
tiens  enfin  cette  Espagne  si  desirie* 
(*Teneo  te,  Africa,'  said  Cesar);  and 
taming  round  to  his  brother  Joseph, 
he  added,* '  Mon  frdre,  tous  seres  mienx 
log^  que  moi, '  and  he  stood  some  time 
pensire,  gazing  on  a  portrait  of  Philip 
II.  He  nerer  lired  in  this  palace,  but 
at  Chamartin,  a  small  viUa  of  the  Dnqne 
del  Infantado,  half-an-hoor  from  Ma- 
drid. The  fresco  ceiling  was  painted 
by  the  academical  Courado  Giachinto, 
and  represents  the  Triumph  of  Religion 
and  of  the  Church,  to  whom  Spain  is 
offering  her  trophies  and  the  firuits  of 
the  soil. 

The  first  floor  contains  thirty  salons 
magnificently  furnished,  and  with  fresco 
ceilings  by  Bayeu  Maella,  and  Gonza- 
les Velasquez;  everything  here  is  on 
the  usual  princely  scale  of  Spanish 
palaces.  Obserre  the  countless  clocks^ 
a  manift  with  Ferdinand  YII.  and  his 
fjither,  who  nerer  knew  the  right  time, 
and  were,  like  them,  either  too  slow  or 
too  fast ;  this  defect  has  been  transmit- 
ted to  the  £unily,  and  foreign  ambasea- 
dors  at  this  court  attribute  the  want  of 
punctuality  shown  by  its  members  to 
this  multiplicity  of  time-pieces.  Charles 
y .  was  also  i^  great  collector,  and  on  not 
succeeding  to  make  two  go  alike,  ob- 
serred  how  foolish  it  was  to  pretend  to 
make  men's  heads  think  the  same. 
There  are  few  good  pictures  remaining 
of  the  former  numerous  collection,  most 
of  which  were  remoyed  to  the  museo  in 
the  reign  of  Ferdinand  YII.  The  prin- 
cipal siJon  is  the  '  hall  of  ambassadors,' 
or  'Sak  del  Trona'  The  ceiling  by 
Tiepolo  represents  the  'Majesty  of 
Spain ; '  observe  the  costumes  personi- 
^iDg  the  different  provinces. 


Chapel  Jiaifol  of  the  pseudo-dassioa] 
style,  with  Corinthian  marble  pillais 
and  frescoes  by  Conrado ;  the  tribunes 
opposite  to  the  altar  are  occupied  only 
by  the  royal  family.  The  church,  con- 
sisting of  one  nave  only,  is  gaudy. 
J^.^.— Tourists  should  not  fail  to  be 
present  at  the  LawUorio,  or  washing  the 
feet  of  the  poor,  which  is  performed  by 
the  queen  on  Holy  Thursday.  To  see 
this  ceremony  a  card  is  necessary.  The 
reffoUa  are  on  the  whole  worthy  of  a 
sovereign  whose  ancestors  ruled  for  so 
long  the  destinies  of  the  New  Worid ; 
but  they  are  seldom  shown.  The 
palace  cpffden,  situated  in  a  hollow 
between  the  western  fa9ade  and  ihe 
Manzanares,  is  indifferently  laid  out; 
examine  nevertheless  an  admirably  exe- 
cuted white  marble  fountain,  opposite 
to  the  conservatoiy,  which  has  been 
placed  in  the  underground  portion  of 
the  palace. 

The  Oa/rden  and  adjacent  walks  oc- 
cupy the  site  of  a  former  park  often 
mentioned  in  the  comedies  of  Calderon 
and  Lope  de  Yega.  The  palace  must 
be  viewed  from  the  road,  tiie  Caaa  de 
Campo,  or  frt)m  the  mountain  del  Prin- 
cipe Pio.  Its  sspect  from  these  points 
is  the  best  Kxamined  in  an  exclusive- 
ly architectural  view,  this  palace  marks 
an  important  date  in  the  history  of 
Spanish  art,  as  being  the  type  of  the 
second  Revival  of  GrKoo-Roman  style. 
It  is  too  low,  heavy,  moskotonous,  defi- 
cient in  purity  and  correctness,  and 
breathes  not  the  classical  s]Hrit  of  Her- 
rera.  The  interruption  of  horizontal 
lines  by  salient  aggregates,  the  ill- 
judged  combination  of  these  ssme  lines, 
the  incongruous  ornamentation  of  out- 
lines and  mouldings — ^these  and  other 
defects  are  veiy  evident,  and  betray 
ignorance  of  the  adaptation  of  risssifal 
details,  and  even  of  the  ftrndamental 
principles  of  the  models  of  antiquity, 
in  simplicity  of  Hues,  rectitude  of  pio* 


366 


MADRID— PAULOB. 


filta,  distmgoiahed  by  a  horizontal  ten- 
dency. On  the  other  side  we  must 
tdmit  its  general  elegance,  sumptnodty, 
rait  pToportione,  and  admirable  effect 

StabUs  and  Coach-houaea  of  the  PO' 
lae$, — These  wer4  b^gon  by  Oharlee 
III.,  nihU  dammUicr  quam  in  «Bd\/l' 
ecmda,  and  finished  by  Ferdinand  YII. 
They  are  situated  on  the  north  of  the 
palace,  occupying  a  most  extensive  area, 
and,  ih>m  the  uneren  ground  upon 
which  they  are  built,  the  horses  and 
carriages  which  enter  by  the  esstem  in- 
grasses  are  lodged  on  the  fourth  floor, 
looking  towards  the  north.'  Visit  first 
the  stables,  Ouadraa,  which  contain 
upwards  of  800  horses  and  200  mules. 
Obserre  the  long-maned,  cream-colour- 
ed Araigues  carriage  breed.  A  horse 
couleur  de  rose  is  not  a  rare  thing  in 
this  happy  land  of  anomalies;  and 
seyerol  may  be  seen  here.  Admire  the 
splendid  fiery  Cordobese  barbs,  the 
finest  in  Madrid,  with  those  of  the 
Duke  of  Abrantes  and  Count  de  Bala- 
zotes.  Visit  the  Prince  of  Asturias' 
stables,  composed  of  ponies  of  the  Shet- 
land and  Galidan  breeds;  the  Anda- 
lusian  jaquitas,  and  a  couple  of  minia- 
ture mules  worth  any  sum.  The  taller 
members  of  the  long-eared  tribe  are  all 
first-rate,  and  most  admired  by  con- 
noisseurs of  that  neutral  gender  of  qua- 
drupeds, many  of  which  hare  cost  6000, 
8000,  and  ll,000r. 

Gfoeh-hmtMet  {La$  Cotheras), — ^They 
contain  124  vehicles  of  all  sizes,  dates, 
and  uses ;  from  the  cumbrous  old  coach, 
to  the  spider-like  Victoria  and  baby 
pony-chaise;  from  the  triumphal  car, 
the  triumph  indeed  of  bad  taste,  down 
to  the  heme^  all  gold  and  glitter,  and 
fitted  np  to  throw  royal  dust  to  the 
gaping  multitude.  The  omtwii^  or 
state  coaohefl^  are  superb;  decorated 
with  paintings,  gilt-bronze  figures,  etc. ; 
that  hilald  wiUi  ebony,  and  the  master- 
piece of  Duran,  which  cost  £15,000, 


without  the  hammer-doth,  which,  with 
others,  iB  judiciously  kept  apart  Ob- 
serve another  all  mahogany,  platina, 
etc.,  which  cost  £9000.  Fiom  an  early 
period  royalty  in  Spain  drove  always  in 
preference  to  riding,  which  was  custom- 
ary in  other  countries.  The  Spaniard 
loves  the  carriage,  and  there  were  thou- 
sands in  Spain,  before  there  were  any 
roads  for  ^em  to  go  upon ;  but  sudden 
transitions  frY>m  extremes  are  frequent 
here^  where  raQways  have  been  substi- 
tuted for  roads,  gss  for  darkness,  Vol- 
taire and  Democracy  for  the  Inquisition. 
Many  of  the  older  coaches  have  been 
presents  frx>m  sovereigns,  and  among 
them  are  two  very  modest  ones^  which 
were  sent  by  Queen  Victoria.  The 
more  modem  have  been  made  in  Paris. 
State  pageants  in  Spain  outstrip  in 
magnificence  and  display  any  in  France, 
Russia,  or  Austria;  even  when  the 
queen  travels,  the  whole  nation  may  be 
said  to  compose  her  suite,  such  are  the 
crowds  of  officials  and  servants^  the 
strings  of  carriages  and  fouigons ;  the 
movement  of  troops  lining  the  way  and 
escorting  the  eomitiva.  Do  not  omit 
the  dark  cumbrous  carriage  used  by 
Crazy  Jane,  when  she  carried  about 
with  her  the  body  of  her  husband, 
Philip  le  Bel  It  is  the  earUest  on 
record  in  Spain,  1646,  so  it  is  said,  but 
the  coach  dates  beginning  of  17th 
century  from  its  style. 

SadcUery,  'guam^s'  (harness,  guar- 
neoer,  to  trim).  Observe  the  richly-em- 
broidered hammer-cloths:  state  capa- 
rasones  for  the  horses,  many  of  which 
were  embroidered  in  the  time  of 
Charles  V. ;  the  showy  state  liveries, 
velvet  embroidered  saddles,  those  worn 
by  the  principal  grandees*  champions  on 
state  Inill-fights  {eabalUro$  m  piaaa), 
etc  etc ;  the  rsised  back  and  front, 
the  veiy  concave  shape,  stirrups,  etc, 
are  all  very  Moorish  and  such  as  are 
now   used   by    Picadoros,  Algnaiiles^ 


MADBID — ^PAULOE — ^ARMOUBY. 


267 


etc  Saddle  ia  called  silla,  applied  also 
to  cbair,  aedil^  from  which  the  EngUah 
■addle,  German  aattle,  French  selle,  are 
all  deriyed.  The  old  Spaniard  waa  a 
good  rider,  and  learnt  much  from  the 
hippie  Arab.  The  eecula  castellana 
picador  (riding-master)  teaches  the 
rising  generation  to  ride  stiffl  j,  the  toes 
on  the  edge  of  the  stirrops, .  the  leg 
straight,  the  left  hand  graoefollj  resting 
on  the  hip,  all  principles  which  look 
better  in  Yelazqnes  and  Titian's  eques- 
trian portraits  tiian  thej  would  before  a 
four-bar  gate  in  Lincolnshire  or  a  six- 
foot  wall  in  Ireland.  The  riding-school 
(pieadero,  from  the  pricking  with  the 
pointed  end  of  the  stirrup,  estHbo, 
which  served  as  spurs)  is  large  and  well 
built  up.  Besides  the  royal  fiunilj, 
grooms  and  post-boys  of  the  Case  Real 
are  taught  riding  d  la  Inglesa,  and  turn 
out  Tery  fair  gineUs,  The  whole  esta- 
blishment is  expensiye.  There  are 
some  700  employ^ ;  the  wages  alone 
amounting  to  £16,800  a-year.  The 
carriages  may  be  calculated  at  £75,000; 
the  horses  and  mules,  £40,000 ;  forming 
without  the  saddlery,  etc.,  a  capital  of 
£115,000.  aoee  to  the  stables  is  a 
school  for  the  children  of  the  seryants 
in  the  palace. 

Armoury  (ArtMria),  —  Permission 
from  Intendente  of  the  palace,  or 
Montero  y  Ballestero  Mayor.  Opened 
on  Tuesdays  and  Saturdays,  firom  10 
▲.M.  to  8  P.M.  N.B.-^Tht  eon99rg$  is 
dvU  to  foreigners.  The  edifice,  built 
by  Gasper  de  la  Yegt,  in  the  reign  of 
Philip  IL ,  is  most  indifferent,  and  there 
is  some  talk  of  pulling  it  down.  The 
armoury  was  established  here  in  1666, 
when  Uie  splendid  collection  of  arms 
formed  by  Charles  Y.  was  removed 
hither  from  Yalladolid.  Seyeral  im- 
portant later  editions  from  Spanish  and 
foreign  soyereigns,  purchases,  eta,  aug- 
mented the  number  of  arms  and 
armouries.     Much   was   sacked    and 


plundered  by  the  French  during  their 
occupation  of  Madrid,  and  great  confu- 
sion caused,  which  was  slowly  remedied. 
The  now  rare  catalogue  published  1798, 
drawn  after  the  'Inyentario  General 
Historico'  of  same  year  throws  little 
light  on  dubious  origins  of  swords, 
etc.  A  new  arrangement  took  place  in 
1848,  and  a  new  catalogue  has*  been 
published,  1861,  drawn  up,  we  belieye, 
by  Sr.  Bomero,  after  the  MS.  one  Vt 
SensL  The  collection  is  considered  the 
finest  and  most  complete  in  the  world. 
The  armours  and  swords  have  belonged 
to  many  of  the  greatest  personages  in 
medinyal  and  modem  histoty,  and  their 
intrinsic  artistical  merit  is  yery  great 
There  are  2644  pieces  of  all  sorts,  of 
which  the  following  are  a  few  of  the 
principal 

Swords.  Armarto  (glMS  eaM  B<— Not. 
is66-7o^a.  Two  daggers.  No.  i  bdonged 
to  Quries  Y. ;  No.  s  to  D.  Juaa  de  Anttria, 
and  is  a  Florcntiiie  stiletto ;  the  third,  callod  a 
Mi*eric0rMa,  to  D.  Garcia  de  Faredes,  a  great 
Spanish  hero. 

No.  1598.  A  Moorish  sword,  callod  Boab- 
diTs ;  dmibtfal,  and  with  an  QlegiUe  inscriptioo. 
Two  ascribed  to  that  Graoadine  kmg  are  OMa* 
tiooed  in  the  catalogue  of  1793. 

1600.  The  Misridc  used  by  Ali-BashUi, 
Admiral  of  the  Turkish  fleet  at  Lepanto. 

i6ta  A  mootante,  sent  by  Clement  VIIL  to 
Philip  IL,  in  1593. 

1619.  Anotheroae,sentto  Juaa  II.  of  Castile 
by  Pope  Eugeoius  IV.,  hi  S44&  An  elegant 
pommeL 

i6aa  That  belonging  to  Garcia  de  Parades 
Of  the  Yalendan  school 

163a.    The  helmet  of  D.  Jayme  d  Conqui* 
stador.   Of  paper-board,  with  a 
the  Limousin /Vw^^riMMi!. 


Armarto  OL — No.  1644.  SwonI  v^ich  be* 
longed  to  D.  Jayme  el  Conquistador.  Brov^ 
firom  Majorca,  1831. 

1648.  A  large  and  rtry  andeat  sword. 
Belonged  to  Gonsalo  de  Cordoba. 

1634.  Sword,  belonged  to  King  Fernando  el 
Santo:  with  figures  of  St.  Barbara  and  Sl 
Christopher,  and  the  words  'Jesus,  Maria.' 

1659.  Sword,  described  as  P^yo's,  b«l 
doubtful 

1663-1773.  Two  shields,  presents  of  the  Daks 
of  Savoy  to  Philip  III.,  In  1603. 


268 


ICABRID — ^ABMOUBT. 


1699.  An  excenent  •pecimen  of  Toledan 
bUdes,  die  wock  of  CanCero,  1564. 

1696.  AToledaBbbdoof  Fetdinud  v.  d 
Ofolico. 

1698.  Deacribed  ashaving  belooged  to  Ber- 
nardqdelCarpia 

XToa.  Swofd  of  the  *Gnui  Capitan/  a  mac 
Bificent  ToledaB  blade,  taid  to  have  been  a  gift 
of  the  Catholic  kings  to  Gonzalo  de  C&rdova, 
and  now  oaed  as  the  swoffd  of  stat^  upon  which 
theoathofalUjpanceto  the  Princes  of  Asturias 
b  ademnly  taken.  On  one  side  of  the  gOt 
pommel  is  represented  a  battle,  with  a  l^rad, 
allusive  to  the  hero's  victory  over  the  French 
at  Cknnes ;  and  on  the  other  an  inscription, 
calling  him  a  third  dictator,  stating  that '  Facta 
Ttalim  pace,  Janiim  davsit,*  etc 

1705.  A  Valcncian  sword  <^  Isabd  the 
Csthdic,  with  the  warlike  inscription, '  Nunca 
veo  pas  comigo,*  and  '  Deseo  siempre  Gera.* 

1708.  A  German  sword  by  Solingen,  taken 
at  battle  of  Norlingen. 

1713.  A  double-handed  sword  of  Charles  V., 
made  at  Saragota. 

17x6.  Sword  of  Philip  II.,  the  work  of  the 
Portugneie  Menchaca. 

X719.  A  fine  blade  of  Juan  Martines^  of 
Toledo. 

XTSX.  A  gem  of  the  palmy  days  of  the  Re- 
vival,  and  a  masterpiece  of  Sebastian  Feraan- 
des,  of  Toleda  Observe  everything  here ;  the 
bo^  the  medallion,  with  a  basso-relievo 
representing  the  Judgment  of  Paris,  and  others; 
tho  genii,  satyn,  etc  Its  length,  about  4  ft.  i 
its  weight,  s  lb.  13  os. 

X797.  La  Cfflttda,  ascribed  to  the  Gd,  and 
Ibrmeriy  to  Heman  Cortes. 

1763.  Belooged  to  Don  Juan  of  Anstiia,  and 
was  made  at  Zaragoea. 

X765.  '  Montante'  of  Ferdinand  V.  d  Cato- 
lico,  with  the  motto,  'Tanto  MonU;'  from 
Zaiagoea,  and  of  the  sort  called  *A1  mendmda.' 

X766.  An  admirable  copy  of  the  sword  of 
Francis  T.,  which  this  king  gave  up  when  taken 
prisoner  at  the  batde  of  Pavia,  and  which  is 
now  in  Pftris  Mus^  d'ArtUl^rie  (839).  This 
copy  is  the  work  of  Sr.  Zuloaga. 

X769.  Sword  of  Frandico  Pisano,  tha  con- 
qoeror  of  Peru.  . 

X773.  A  nmgnificent  sword,  the  one  usually 
worn  by  Philip  II.  The  Made  is  German :  00 
one  side  is  the  inscription,  '  Pro  Fide  et  Patria, 
pro  Christo  et  Patria.  Inter  Arma  silent  Leges. 
Soli  Deo  Gkma;'  and  on  the  other,  'Pi«na 
pro  Patria,  pro  Aris  et  Focts ;  nee  Temero,  nee 
TImide;  Fide  sed  cui  vide 

X776.  A  sword  of  Chailes  V.,  brought  from 
the  moniitiiry  of  Yuste,  after  the  cmperor^s 
death;  the  work  of  Juan  de  Toledo. 


Axmarlo  B.— No.  1807.  Sword  of  Heraaa 
Cortes,  with  the  well-known  mark  of  the 
*Perrilk».' 

x87a  Another  with  the  same  mark,  and 
which  beloQged  to  the  celebrated  poet,  Gardlaso 
de  U.  y«ga ;  but  another  sword  of  his  (19x6)  is 
mora  interesting,  as  it  sutes  that  by  its  means 
the  poet  slew  a  Moor  on  the  fiekl  of  battle.  He 
killed  a  Moor  who  had  railed  at  the  Virgin. 

19x7.  Sword  of  Suero  de  Qntftones,  the  hero 
of  the  Psao  Honroso,  near  Leon. 

Armonn,  Baddleo.  eto.— No.  XX3S.  Half- 
suit,  bek>nged  to  Juan  de  PadiUa,  head  of  the 
Comuneros.    From  Charles  V.'s  collection. 

X78S.  Efl^  of  King  Ferdinand  d  Santo, 
carved  by  Piquer,  after  the  origind  portrait  of 
the  king.  The  crown,  admirably  executed  by 
Sr.  Zuloaga,  the  most  skilfiil  armero  now  in 
Spain.  It  is  borne  processionally  to  Royd 
Chi^  on  the  annivermry  of  the  captura  of 
SevUle,  May  09,  xa48. 

There  are  also  severd  re vd vers  of  X7th 
century. 

9188  to  S193.  A  magnificent  pair  of  atimqis 
ofChariesin. 

9308.  Roman  equestrian  armour  of  Charles 
V. 

X3xa  The  war  saddle  of  James  I.  of  Aragoo, 
d  Conquistador. 

931X.    War  saddle  ascribed  to  the  CkL 

S3X6.  Armour  of  Charles  V.,  brought  firom 
Yuste. 

9339.  A  magnificent  Florentine  armour  of  tha 
Great  Duke  of  Alba. 

934a  Milanese  armour  of  Antonio  de  Leyva. 

9349.  Equestrian  armour  of  Hernan  Cortes. 

9343.  A  very  fine  armour,  which  bdonged  to 
Boabdil,  the  ill-fiucd  Bey  Chico  de  Granada. 
It  proceeds  from  Charles  V.'s  cdlection. 

9335.  The  authentic  armour  worn  by  Christo- 
pher Cdumbus ;  it  wdghs  4X  lb. 

9364.  Complete  armour  ot  Charles  V.,  hi 
which  he  was  portrayed  by  Titian  ^licuire- 
gdleryX 

9388.  Cooqilete  armour  of  Philip  II.,  in 
which  he  was  portrayed  by  Titian  (picttire- 
gallery,  769). 

9396k  A  Chinete  armour,  a  present  of  the 
Emperor  of  China  to  Philip  II. 

9397.  Bronse  armour  need  in  Spaitf  towards 
end  of  xsth  century.  They  are  a  modification 
of  the  Lombards,  serpentines,  of  earlier  times. 

9399.  Coaq>lete  armour  of  the  ill-frued  Don 
Carios,  son  of  Philip  II. 

9408  A  portable  arm-dmir  used  by  Charles 
V.  hi  can^Msigi;. 

S4xa  Equestrian  armour  <^  Charles  V.,  in 
which  that  emperor  entered  the  dty  of  Tunis ; 
it  weighs  7  arrobas,  X4  lb.   The  sword  is  a  fine 


MADRID — ^ARMOUBY. 


269 


Toledan  Usde^  nude  by  Juaa   Mardaes  d 
Vieja 

a4xa.  A  BoigoBote  helmet  of  Oiarles  V. 
Obeierre  tbe  •dminibly-executed  relievot  of 
warrion  and  cenuurs,  and  gold  and   sUrer 


8495.  litter  used  by  Charles  V.  in  caaqMifD, 
and  when  gout  prevented  him  riding* 

9443.  Helmet  of  PhiUp  IL,  reinarfcable  for 
the  &iel]r-executed  ReiriTal  reUevoa  of  the 
Italian  school. 

9469.  Kqtifttrian  annour  of  Prince  Philibert  of 
Savoy. 

a47S'  An  English  banner  taken  at  the  siege 
of  Cuthagena  (Indies),  with  the  motto  'nee 
aspefa  terrent. 

9507.  Annour  of  Charles  V.,  and  the  finest 
here  of  Italian  workmanship  (1539)  •  brought 
from  Yttste. 

9591.  This  hdmet  and  shield  (No.  1779) 
betoiged  to  Francis  I.,  and  were  found  with 
Us  other  effects  at  the  battle  of  Paria;  but 
they  were  not  those  worn  by  him  on  the  day  of 
the  battle. 

S599  to  9597.  Very  foteresting  saddles,  with 
pictures  on  the  bows  ascribed  to  Perfai  del  Vaga, 
n  pupil  of  Raphad  and  others. 

N,B, — Obaerre  the  fine  specimens  of  firearms 
in  armarios  F.  and  G.,  and  of  armario  E.,  the 
beautiful  shield  (1379)  with  rdievos  represent- 
ing scenes  from  the  tst  chapter  of  Petrarca's 
'Trionfo  d*AnMre.'  The  oaagnificent  shield 
(557)  cuadro  15,  a  nmsterpiece  of  the  Milanese 
N^JroU  The  firearms  of  the  Madrid  a$xabm' 
ctTtt  are  worth  notice* 

9S34.  A  barrel  <^  an  escopeta,  the  worie  of 
Cristobal  Trisleva,  and  which  was  k)«ded  by 
the  breech    preicuted  by  Sr.  Zuloaga. 

flS44>  A  sort  of  sceptre  found  in  the  ruins 
of  Orfah  MesopotanUa.  We  must  also  draw 
the  attention  of  visiton  to  the  Visigoth  votive 


9545.  The  iron  rnksTand  used  by  Charles  V., 
and  brought  from  the  Escorial,  and  admirably 
engnven  4I  ttmmftrie, 

9^3^  Gold  votive  crown,  with  precious  stones 
and  a  crom  suspended  within  the  crown;  weighs 
46  onsas  and  5  adarmes.  The  inscription :— • 
'Svinthihmos  Rex  offerret'  (Svinthilic 
reigned  6si  to  ^i,  and  was  tha  sad  Visigoth 


9639.  Gdd  votive  crown  offered  by  Abbot 
Theodosias ;  sapphires,  etc  ;  fine. 
964a  Gold  cross  offered   by   Bishop  Lu- 


'jLna  rest  are  fragments  of  crowns,  an 
aM  on  which  is  engnven  the  Annunciation  of 
the  Viigia;  six  large  sapphires,  etc  These 
oowBS  were  worn,  imd  then,  wiUi  some  addi- 
liOM,  oonttituted  a  solemn  pious  offering  to 


some  dinrch  on  a  particular  event,  and  the 
duuns,  etc.,  were  added  probably  to  suspend 
them  before  the  dtar.  The  woricmanship 
resembles  certain  ornaments  of  the  Merovin- 
gian  period,  and  evinces  beauty  in  general 
design  and  ridmeas,  being  of  great  value  as 
rdics  of  tha  Visigoth  age.  These  proceed 
from  a  fidd  near  the  small  village  of  La  Fuente 
de  Guanrazar,  near  Toledo ;  and  before  these, 
some  other  and  larger  ins^nia  of  die  same  age 
had  been  dug  up  by  chance  and  sold  to  the 
French  Govenunent  for  loo^ooofr.,  and  we  saw 
them  at  the  Hotd  Quay  last  year.  The 
Spamah  Government  daimfd  them  back  00  the 
ground  of  thdr  bdng  natiMud  regalia  and 
heirlooms  of  the  state,  but  they  have  not  been 
given  bade  A  severe  d<scree  ruling  treasure* 
trove  in  Spun  was  the  consequence.  For 
further  details  see  a  paper  written  by  Mr. 
Albert  Way  in  the  'Ardneologicd  Journal,'  and 
a  notice  by  M.  du  Sommerard  in  the  '  Monde 
lUustr^'  i860 :  see  also  Mr.  F.  de  Lasteyrieli 
exhaustive  '  Descrq>tion  du  TVter  de  Guer- 
rasar,'  etc.,  Paris,  1860.  GoM  crowns  were 
always  worn  by  the  Visigoth  kings.  We  read 
in  Coode  that  Moussa  ordered  about  400 
families  of  the  blood  royd  to  aooooqwny  him 
to  Sjrria  as  hostages,  and  they  bore  round  thdr 
heads  diadems  of  gold,  and  girdles  of  the  same. 
Also,  hi  Coode,  book  L  chap,  is,  when  Tarik 
was  k>dged  in  the  Alcasar  of  the  Visigoth  kfaigs 
at  Toledo,  it  is  mentioned  that  'in  a  seduded 
room  of  the  royd  palace  he  fiound  twenty-five 
gold  crowns  idaid  with  hyacinths  and  other 
precious  Mooes,  for  it  was  the  custom  dmt, 
after  the  death  of  a  kin^  his  crown  should  bo 
hud  aside  here,  after  engraving  upon  it  hb 
name,  age,  and  the  tiase  that  hb  reiga  had 
lasted.' 

Beddes  thia  one,  the  beet  ennouriea 
in  Madrid  are  thoee  of  the  Dnke  de 
Medina  Oeli,  and  Dnke  of  Osona. 

The  Artaiinf  iftraiiMi.— Kear  the 
Retiro;  admittance  with  paasporta  from 
September  3  to  July  34 ;  very  well 
daadfied,  will  intereet  few  bat  military 
tonriiti. 

TopograpkMl  Muteum, — ^At  the  Co- 
$on  (Rdiro),  aeen  with  paasporta ;  con- 
tains few  o^eots  of  interest  beyond  the 
models  and  relicTo  plans  of  the  Royal 
Palace^  as  designed  by  Jnbaira,  and 
othera  of  Yalladolid,  Sscorial,  Ana- 
jnes,  eta 


270 


MADRID — ^PIOTURK-OALLBRT. 


NawU  Museum.—CaXib  de  Procura- 
dores,  seen  on  Tuesdajs  and  Fridays, 
except  when  it  rams,  from  10  till  8 
P.M.,  with  pennisdon  of  Seftor  Direc- 
tor ;  a  good  idea  can  he  gathered  from 
the  models  of  former  ship-hnilding  in 
Spain.  Ohsenre  the  caiavals  of  Co- 
lumhns^s  time,  and  some  interesting 
relics  of  oelehrated  navigators  and  sea- 
men. 

.Museo  of  Natural  history. —Calle 
AlcaU,  Ko.  19,  second  floor,  with  pass- 
port daily,  except  on  holidays,  from  10 
to  2  P.M.  The  building  was  formerly 
used  as  a  custom-house,  and  was  built 
by  Sabatini  for  Charles  III.,  1769.  It 
is  massire,  large,  and  with  a  noble 
la^e;  the  finance  department  is  on 
the  first  floor.  The  zoological  collection 
is  incomplete ;  obsenre,  nevertheless,  a 
unique  fossil  animal,  tho  megatherium, 
found  in  1789  near  the  river  Lujan,  13 
leagues  fwm  Buenos  Ayres ;  it  is  the 
laigest  of  its  kind,  and  very  well  pre- 
served ;  there  is  another  one,  smaller, 
found  more  recently  near  Madrid. 
Though  rather  out  of  place  here^  there 
are  also  two  large  bulls,  heroes  of  the 
arena,  and  called  Seftorito  and  Can- 
melo.  In  one  of  the  rooms  is  the 
skeleton  of  a  very  gallant  French 
drummer,  at  whose  feet,  in  lieu  of  other 
trophies,  is  placed  a  bottle  which  con- 
tains the  mercury  that  issued  from  his 
bones,  a  striking  commentary  de  bello 
Oallioo.  The  mineralogical  depart- 
ment is  exceedingly  rich,  and  deserves 
from  connoisseurs  a  very  close  exami- 
nation. The  Spanish  marbles  and 
metals,  etc,  exhibited  here  testify 
sufficiently  that  the  riches  of  Spain, 
concealed  and  buried  underground, 
would  pay  tenfold  for  all  that  lies  on 
its  surface.  The  great  object  of  attrac- 
tion is,  however,  a  large  loadstone 
(piedra  imku)  weighing  six  pounds  and 
supporting  sixty.    The  rooms  contain- 


ing South  American,  Indian,  andChin«M 
curiosities^  are  not  worth  visiting. 


Boyml  Plotnre-OalleiT  (Beal  Mvmo 
de  FiiUuTai),^lt  is  situated  on  the 
Prado ;  open  during  summer  from  9  A.1C. 
to  4  P.M;  during  winter,  10  a.m.  to 
8  P.M.  Mondays,  open  from  1  p.m. 
Admission  free  on  Sundays ;  on  week- 
days by  permission  of  the  director  (never 
revised).  Foreigners  require  only  pass- 
port or  card.  N.B. — It  is  closed  on 
rainy  days.  The  porter  is  very  civil, 
and  speaks  French.  To  make  copies, 
apply  to  Sr.  Director  (Sr.  D.  Federico 
Madrazo),  Calle  de  la  Greda  Ka  22, 
Co.  8,  or  to  the  Secretary,  Sr.  Toledano. 
State  the  name  of  picture,  its  number, 
etc  Copies  of  the  same  size  as  the 
originals  are  allowed.  Pictures  cannot 
be  token  down  or  removed.  There  ore 
several  good  copyists,  and  the  chaiges 
are  moderate.  The  director  is  an  able 
painter,  the  most  prominent  now  in 
Spain.  He  is,  besides,  a  most  gentle- 
manly and  obliging  individuid.  A 
catalogue  is  sold  at  the  door ;  a  new 
one  is  in  preparation,  as  the  present 
edition  is  almost  exhausted,  and  the 
arrangement  of  pictures  is  undergoing 
some  change 

The  edifice  is  large,  not  wanting  in 
majesty  and  grandeur,  but  too  low  for 
its  length.  It  was  the  work  of  Juan 
de  YiUanueva,  and  was  built  in  1785 
for  Charles  III.,  who  intended  it  for  a 
Museum  of  Natural  History  and  an 
Academy  of  Sciences.  It  was  com- 
pleted in  the  reign  of  Charles  IV.,  but 
remained  unused  save  at  the  time  of 
the  French  occupation,  when  it  was  con- 
verted into  a  barrack.  Ferdinand  V 1 1. , 
at  the  request  of  his  queen,  Isabel  de 
Braganza,  who  cultivated  paintin|^ 
caused  it  to  be  repaired  and  fitted  up 
for  a  picture-galleiy,  and  in  Nov.  1819 


MADRID  PICTURE  GALLERY. 


•  ALA    DC       ^ 


ItABCL   ff 


A 


o1 


■•I 

I 


< 

a. 


K 


o 
04 


O 
^-) 

GO 


PUBLIC  CNTRANCC 


UADRm — PICTUBB-GALLERY. 


271 


three  saloons  were  thrown  open  to  the 
pnhliOy  which  contained  811  Spanish 
pictures.  In  1830  the  Flemish,  Dotch, 
Italian,  French,  and  German  schools 
were  completed.  The  lights  are  gener- 
ally good.  On  the  oatalogoe^  the 
initials  CS.  L.,  affixed  to  sereral  piotores, 
denote  those  which  have  been  litho- 
graphed ;  and  G.  K.  stand  for  '  Gal- 
co|^afia  NacionaL'  Prints  by  the  first 
process  may  be  purchased  at  the  Mnseo 
itself^  and  belong  to  a  collection  began 
in  1826  by  8.  D.  Josi  Madrasa;  they 
may  be  also  purchased  at  Galcografia 
Kacional  (office  in  Galle  de  Ganetas). 
There  are  small  phott^graphs  of  the 
most  celebrated  pictures  to  be  had  at 
Laurent's^  Na  89  Garrera  SanGeronimo, 
who  had  kare  to  take  them  down  and 
place  them  in  the  best  light  for  photo- 
graphing. 

This  gallery  is  considered  the  finest 
in  the  world,  but  it  is  rather  a  oollec- 
tion  of  splendid  gems  than  a  complete 
chronological  series  of  schools.  It  is 
wanting  in  examples  of  the  early  Italian, 
and  of  the  German  and  French  masters, 
and  several  of  the  Yalencian  and  Sevil- 
lian  schools  are  scantily,  if  at  all,  re- 
presented ;  but  it  IB  exceedingly  rich 
in  the  productions  of  some  great  mas- 
ters, and  few  galleries  can  boast  of  pos- 
sessing, like  this  one,  62  Rubens*,  53 
Teniers,  10  Raphaels,  46  Murilloe,  64 
YaUsques*,  22  Van  Dycks,  48  Titians, 
84  Tintorettos,  2B  Yeroneses,  64  Breu- 
ghels,  23  Snyders,  19  Ponssins,  10 
Wouvermans,  66  Giordanoe,  68  Riberas, 
10  Glaudes,  etc.  The  authenticity,  es- 
pecially of  the  most  important,  is 
doubtless,  as  they  proceeded  from  the 
palaces  of  Madrid,  Escorial,  El  Pardo, 
La  Granja,  for  which  most  were  painted 
expressly,  and  the  inrentorics  of  which 
designate  them  with  full  particulars. 
They  number  upwards  of  2000,  and  are 
the  property  of  the  crown.    The  re- 


pairs (restauradotus)  have  been  made 
with  care  and  intelligence,  saying  a  few 
exceptions,  and  mod  of  the  principal 
pictures  hare  been  spared,  especially 
Yelazques's.  According  to  Uie  new 
anangements,  the  best  Spanish  and 
Italian  pictures  ars  now  placed  in  the 
long  central  saloon,  and  a  few  of  the 
most  remarkable  masterpieoes  have 
been  collected  in  aspecial  circular  room, 
called  Salon  de  Isabel  II.,  somewhat 
like  the  Salon  Gan^  of  the  LouTre,  the 
Tribuna  of  Florence  and  that  of  Bo- 
l(>gna.  The  four  lateral  halls  contain  : 
the  two  nearest  the  entrance^  that  on 
the  right  Spanish  masters,  that  on  the 
left,  those  of  Italy ;  the  two  farthest 
consist  of  Flemish  and  Dutch  pictures. 
The  2d  Rotunda  exhibits  specimens  of 
French  and  German  masters.  In  the 
ground -floor  is  situated  the  reduced 
and  unimportant  collection  of  sculp- 
ture and  antiques,  besides  some  more 
inferior,  but  all  raluable  pictures,  a  few 
original  drawings  by  old  masters,  etc 
These  latter  are  seen  on  Mondays,  and 
by  applying  to  the  head  porter,  who 
will  also  show  the  Sala  Resenrada,  or 
the  Deecanso,  etc 

In  noticing  the  more  remarkable  pic- 
tures, we  follow  the  order  in  which  the 
trardler  generaUy  Tints  the  gallery — 
yiz.  L  Central  Long  Room ;  2.  Sala  de 
Isabel  II.;  8.  Dutch  and  Flemish 
schools ;  4.  Spanish  and  Italian  schools 
(lateral  halls  to  entrance).  For  a  con- 
cise idea  of  the  chronological  order  of 
the  Spanish  masters,  etc,  we  refer  our 
readers  to  General  Information :  l\Mint' 
ing,  FiainUrs^  and  the  list  of  books  of 
reference  to  be  obtained  on  the  subject 
The  critical  obsenrations  are  derived 
from  the  best  and  surest  authorities  on 
the  matter.  N,B. — ^The  numbers  on 
the  pictures  hare  undergone  no  alter- 
ation in  the  recent  changes. 


272 


•     MADRID — ^PICTURX-GALLBRT. 


NimERICAL  INDEX, 

nVBRBMCn  TO  TNB  FAGSS  WMBXB 
nCTOllBS  ARS  DBSCKIBCO. 


MO. 


8 

ss 
•7 
4» 

43 

47 
49 

i 

z 

8i 
107 
II* 
116 

SSI 

««5 

131 

13S 

M7 
150 

«5« 

»5« 

«54 

*SS 

«77 
190 

191 

198 

«99 


1^ 
V,l 

«54 

•«4 
•9« 
•99 

y>3 

310 

3*5 
3»7 
3>9 

^ 

33> 


rxcB.  Ma 


1 


1 


•73 

•74 
•73 
•84 

•74 
}-3 

•83 

•73 
•7« 
•74 

•8s 

•75 

% 

•7* 


•74 
•73 

SI 

•73 
•84 

•7« 

•74 
•73 

•74 

% 

•74 


336 
337 
440 

446 

456 


IS 

570 

575 
703 

3 

733 
734 
74« 
743 
75« 
75« 

?g 

770 
774 

7 

787 
79» 

i 

8si 

is 
899 
903 
90s 
971 
97a 

1006 

tola 
1018 


rACB.y  Ma 


} 

} 


•73 

••3 
•73 


•74 
•7« 

•7^ 


2? 


s8i 

2; 


} 


3; 

•«4 

•79 
881 

3^ 

}»7« 
*t« 

•»« 

s8o 
•84 

s8i 
•84 


loao 
1040 
1046 
1080 
1081 

"99 

iai6 

isao 

IS30 

»«45 

««47 
IS51 

1374 

ia8a 
1385 
1388 
1394 
1396 
«330 
1345 
1358 

«374 
«375 
1383 
139a 

>393 
1394 
140s 
1407 
14SS 
1433 
1448 
1446 

1463 

«497 
1501 

«5«5 

«573 
«575 
1576 

159X 
1607 
1610 
1635 

:^ 

1641 
1646 

Its 

I68I 
168s 

1710 

1714 

«7»7 
1719 
1778 

179« 

1B03 
1804 


rACB. 


} 


s8i 
s8s 

•84 


'S65 


s8i 

•85 
381 

SI 

.385 


t 


381 
•85 

•8s 

s8i 

•85 

s8i 
s8a 

a8i 

•85 


s8s 

•85 

s86 


^s86 


1.  Rotumda,  or  Entrtnoe  HtlL — ^la 
centre  is  a  good  plaster  groap  of 
Laoooon.  Around  are  placed  indif- 
ferent paintings;  some  good  copies 
and  Giordanos,  not  of  the  *  first  water.' 
Observe,  howerer,  the  following: — 
No.  12.  The  capture  of  a  fortified  city 
hf  Ferdinand  the  Catholic,  by  Gior- 
dano. No.  8.  A  good  topographic  plan 
of  the  Battle  of  Almsnsa,  by  Ligli,  a 
popQ  of  Giordano.  No.  27.  An  alle- 
gory by  Mayno,  of  whom  Lope  de 
y^'a  said  :— '  Juan  Bautisto  Mayno,  i 
qoiin  el  arte  debe  aqnella  accion  que 
las  figures  mueTa'  ('  Laurel  de 
Apola ')  The  Duke  of  OliTares  stsnds 
on  the  side  of  Philip  lY. 

Long  CeiUnU  Jtoom.—Tht  first  half; 
on  entering,  contains  Spanish,  and  the 
second  half  Itslian  pictures.  The  first 
series  are  modem,  and  all  the  rest  early 
Spanbh  and  Italian.  Tlie  less  that  is  said 
about  the  'Escuelas  contemporaneas,'  of 
which  there  are  specimens  here,  the 
better.  No.  664.  Death  of  Yiriatus, 
by  J.  Madraso ;  all  the  otherB,  by  the 
academical  Bayeu,  Maella,  Aparido, 
etc,  belong  to  the  pseudo-classical 
French  style  of  the  First  Empire.  The 
full-sized  portraits  of  Charles  lY.  and 
his  Queen,  by  Madraso  (No.  670)  are 
interesting  ss  likenesses.  Goya's  por- 
trait by  Lopes  (No.  676)  will  interest 
those  who  admins  this  truly  national 
and  original  genius,  whose  Picador 
(No.  606)  Dos  de  Mayo,  and  Msssacre 
of  Frenchmen  by  Spaniards,  deserre 
attention. 

Ribera  (SpagndeUo). 

Ka  42.  Martyrdom  of  St  Bartholo- 
mew. *  Powerful  drawing  and  colour- 
ing.' 

204.  Holy  Trinity.  '  Painted  Hke 
CaniTaggio ;' '  exhibits  great  power,  hot 
is  not  a  pleasing  compodtion.' 

80.  TheMsgdalen. 


lUDBID— norOBB-CULLBBT. 


273 


SOS»  44I9  ete.y  A  series  of  scenes 
ih>in  the  lires  of  the  Apostles. 
147.  Trotde  besd  of  a  SibjL 
125.  Msrtyrdom  of  St  Stephen. 

Juan  d4  Juane$, 

No.  MO.  St  Stephen  preeohing  the 
GospeL  Very  rich  colouring;  rery 
like  Perngino. 

887.  Same  sabject  The  saint^  stand- 
ing in  the  syiuigogae,  points  to  the 
TJsion painted aboTe, exclaiming;  'I  see 
the  heayens  opening;  and  the  Son  of 
Han  sitting  at  the  right  hand  of  Qod 
the  Father  I '  The  infuriated  Jews  are. 
pouring  anathemas  upon  the  saint 

'The  trealmenc  and  lechaical  icecurion  of 
these  picturas  b  Italian  in  its  chsracfcf  and 
ytrj  fine.'  (Sir  Ed.  Head.)  *  A  truly  splen- 
did peinrinf  for  the  rompositioo  as  well  as 
coloariag.'   (Hoskins.) 

226.  The  Lord's  Supper.  Ck>nsidered 
by  some  as  superior  in  many  respects 
to  the  eelebrated  Gma  of  Da  Vind, 
but  is  more  like  Yasari's.  It  was  re- 
painted in  Paris  by  M.  Bonnemaison, 
and  is  one  of  Juanes'  masterpieces. 

150.  ScceHoma  A  gilt  background; 
on  wood.  A  subject  often  trwted  by 
this  master;  remarkably  fine. 

lOe.  St  Stephen  on  his  Way  to  Exe- 
cution. Another  of  the  series  of  scenes 
from  the  life  and  Martyrdom  of  this 
saint     (Nos.  197-9,  884-6-7.) 

*  Ahard  but  fine  painting.  The  crowd  mock- 
inf  the  saint,  admirable  for  expression,  draw- 
inc  and  ookmring.  The  figure  of  the  saint, 
fieigned  and  full  6(  religion,  b  beyond  praise; 
hbfoel  and  hands  ssost  carelully  painted,  and 
hb  gstmsiiis  equal  to  the  magic  draperies  of 
PknlVeconese.'  (Hoekins.)  « Studies  for  such 
scenes  nnist  have  been  comiMn  in  Spain ;  many 
a  Domiafcan  m%ht  hare  sat  for  the  SauL' 
(SvJLHead.)    On  wood. 

190.  Burial  of  St  Stephen.  'Coloured 
like  Sebastiano  del  Piomba'  The  man 
dressed  in  black,  and  standing  on  the 
kit,  is  said  to  be  the  painter.  On 
wood. 


112.  Coronation  of  the  Virgin ;  oval; 
on  wood. 

Morali$. 

46.  Mater  Dolorosa.  One  of  his  best 
hers ;  inferior,  according  to  Viardot^  to 
the  Giroumcidon. 

40.  Ecce  Homo.  An  excellent  ex- 
ample of  his  style. 

Mwritto. 

276.  Conception.  A  half-figure. 
'Very  exquisite.'  Preferred  by  some 
toNa229. 

810.  St  Anna  Teaching  the  Virgin 
to  read.  'The  child  wants  beauty, 
but  the  saint  is  admirable.'  (Hoskina) 
'  The  draperies  are  in  imitation  of  Boe- 
las.'    (Ford.) 

40.  DiTino  Pastor.  A  great  fiiTour- 
ite.  An  allegory  of  ChrisUanity  seated 
among  the  ruins  of  Psganism.  It  is  a 
pendant  to 

60.  St  John  the  Baptist  Thetwoabore 
paintingi  are  charming  examples  of  the 
•  Niftos  de  Murillo ;' both  belong  to  his 
third  or  Fiiqforo$o  manner. 

48.  Holy  Family.    Commonly  called 

'  del  ^9X0,*  on  account  of  the  bird  in 

the  child's  hand.     'The  head  of  the 

Virgin  is  rery  beantiftil;  but  the  ex* 

prewion  of  the  child  is  purely  hunuoL' 

(a  K  Head.) 

On  ne  peut  voir  une  sccn^  fiyainere  iieuii 
cop^ue  ■  •  •  •  plus degfuoe dans les attitudes! 
phis  d*dneigie  dans  la  toucha.'  (Viardoc)  A 
homely  scene  copied  frov  an  AndaluBian  cot- 
tage. Belongs  to  the  fint.^i^  style,  and  has 
bMn  repainted  at  Plsris,  eqwdaOy  the  foce  of 
the  ^Hifin  and  die  dog. 

220.  Conception.  It  is  difficult  to 
say  whether  t^  painting  is  superior 
or  not  to  that  of  the  same  subject^ 
which  was  purchased  at  the  sale  of 
Marshal  Soult's  Gallery,  now  in  the 
liOUTre.  Comte  de  Rii  (Musfo  Boyal 
de  Madrid)  prefers  the  latter,  as  pos- 
sessing more  harmony  of  compositfon* 
more  ideality,  eta   Itisagreatfanmr- 


274 


MADRID— PICrrURp-OAUiEllY. 


ite  witli  the  public,  and  constantly 
copied. 

'  Innocence  ttsdf,  and  benudfuny  painted ; 
how  rich  and  Juicy  the  flesh,  how  fuUtof  pulp 
and  throbbing  life  I  (Ford.)  'There  is  more 
of  the  ideal  in  this  painriniy  thf^q  Jg  tisually 
found  in  the  works  of  Murillo.  Tlie  style  is 
more  elevated.  (Hosldns.)  It  is  less  repainted 
than  that  at  Puis. 

60.  Annunciation. 

*  Jamais,  si  Je  ne  Peiisse  Yue,  Je  n'amais'hna- 
glntf  qu'avec  les  teintes  d*une  palette  on  pOt 
imiter  i  ce  point  I'dclat  d'ane  luenr  mirecn- 
leuse,  et  fiure  jaiUir  de  b  toile  des  rayons  de 
lumi^  Cestletriompheducoloristo.'  (Viar- 
dot)  The  Vii-gin'schedc  is  said  to  be  repainted. 
Belongs  to  the  vapamo  style. 

816.  Viaion  of  St  Beniard.  The 
fignrea  are  of  a  high  character. 

'This  again  shows  how  closely  MuriUo  ob- 
served Roeks.  The  draperies  of  the  taint 
have  been  repainted;  but  his  head  isfin^and 
the  sentimentt  of  gratitude  and  veneration  are 
admirably  expressed.    The  concealing  the  feet 

of  the  Virgin  gives  her  figure  too  much  hdghL' 
(Ford.) 

sae.  Viaion  of  San  Ildefonao.  The 
Virgin  ia  giving  the  caauUa  (chaauUe) 
to  the  aaint,  who  waa  Archbiahop  of 
Toledo^  and  a  sealooa  adyocate  of  the 
dogma  of  the  Immaculate  Conception. 
The  woman  on  the  right  holding  a 
candle  ia  probably  the  portrait  of  the 
'  divota  de  la  Viigen'  who  ordered  thia 
'painting. 

210.  Conception.  Formerly  in  Sala 
de  laabel  II. ;  admirably  coloured. 

20a  Rebecca  at  the  Well    Belongi 

to  the  aeoond  or  oalido  atyle;  aomewhat 

hard ;  beara  tracea  of  the  influence  of 

Hibera'a  manner. 

'Les  quatra  femmes  pitches  auprte  de  la 
fontaine  h  droite,  et  vues  en  pleine  lumiire, 
ont  nne  flonnante  vigueur.*    (Couittde  Ris.) 

218.  He%d  of  St  John  the  Baptiat 

218.  Head  of  St  Paul 

Saruka  Coello. 

162.  A  Portrait  Suppoaed  to  be 
that  of  the  crazy  aon  of  Philip  II.,  Don 
Carloa,  the  hero  of  Schiller'a  admirable 
drama. 


There  is  no  expression  of  idiocy  or  deficieni 
intellect,  as  S.  E.  Head  justly  remarlcs,  but 
rather  of  a  serious  meditative  mind,  somewhat 
mcMXMe,  and  not  unlike  the  habitual  character 
of  Philip  II.'s  countenance. 

164.  Portrait  of  the  Infanta  Clara 
Eugenia,  daughter  of  PhUip  II.,  and 
wife  of  the  Archduke  Albert  Obaenre 
the  detaila  of  the  dreaa^  jewela,  and 
general  colouring.  She  waa  the  fa- 
vourite diild  of  Philip. 

626.  A  Portrait  Suppoaed  to  be 
that  of  a  daughter  of  Philip  II. 

688.  A  Portrait  Probably  of  a 
aiater  of  Philip  II. 

Mdao. 

79.  A  View  of  Zaragoza.  The 
figurea  are  painted  by  Velazquei»  who 
waa  hiB  fiither-in-law. 

Tobar, 

47.  Portrait  of  Murillo.  Of  Teiy 
great  intereat  therefore.  Tobar  waa  hia 
beat  pupil,  and  hia  paintingB  hare  often 
been  miataken  for  thoae  of  hia  maater. 

Zurbartm, 

817.  The  Inlant  Deity  aaleep.  Very 
fine. 

808.  Equeatrian  portrait  of  laabelle 
de  Bourbon,  first  wife  of  Philip  IV. 
This  picture  haa  been  repainted  in 
many  parte  by  Velazquez.  Jhe  dreaa^ 
though  pleaaing  at  firat  eighty  loaea  of 
ita  Talue  on  doaer  examination.  It 
waa  evidently  not  painted  by  him.  The 
queen's  fine  old  white  horae  ia  hia,  and 
in  the  bridle  one  can  even  aee  the  parta 
which  he  waa  obliged  to  alter  while 
painting  the  horse;  they  are  quite 
different  from  the  upper  part  of  tlie 
aame,  where  the  deaign  of  the  embroi- 
dery ia  done  in  a  much  more  elaborate 
and  atiff  manner  than  that  of  the  dreaa. 
The  landacape  ia  good  and  by  the  great 
master;      The  queen's  horse  is  white, 


MADRID — FIOTURS^ALLERY. 


275 


and  old,  and  ambles  at  a  lady's  pace  ; 
the  cold  colour  of  the  steed  forms  a  fine 
contrast  to  the  pleasing-looking  qneen*s 
rich  brown  dress,  browed  with  gold, 
and  pointed  with  the  skill  of  Panl 
Veronese. 

882.  Prince  Don  Baltasar  Carlos 
riding  a  chestnut  'jaca.'  The  child 
actuallj  gallops  out  of  the  frame,  and 
is  the  anticipation  of  Edwin  Landseer, 
and  his  yonng  Highland  chieftains  on 
their  wild  ponies.'  (Ford.)  '  There  is 
a  wonderful  spirit  and  life  about  this' 
portrait  The  landscape  is  rather  too 
blue  and  green. '    (Hoskins. ) 

264.  Mao^    Finely  painted. 

246.  An  Old  Man,  called  Menipo. 

819.  The  surrender  of  Breda  (June 
2,  1625)  by  the  goremor  of  that  city, 
Justin  of  Kttssau,  to  Spinola,  whose 
announcement  of  that  eyent  was  con- 
fined to  the  words,  'Breda  Tornado.' 
This  masterpiece  is  commonly  known 
as  '  el  cuadro  do  las  lanzas,'  from  the 
number  of  the  lances  borne  by  the 
guards.  The  figure  and  expression  of 
the  figures  is  as  wonderful  as  the  tech- 
nical execution.  There  is  the  genuine 
courtesy  of  a  high-bred  soldier  in  the 
demeanour  of  ti^e  conqueror  towards 
his  frllen  foe,  and  the  whole  composi- 
tion is  admirable.'  (Sir  E.  Head.) 
'  Quelle  harmonic  1  quelle  rigueur  dans 
les  premiers  plans  1  quelle  degradation 
dans  le  paysagef  (De  Ris.)  'Per- 
haps the  finest  picture  of  Yelaxques ; 
neverwere  knights,  soldiers,  or  national 
character  better  painted,  or  the  heary 
Fleming;  the  int^ectual  Italian,  and 
the  proud  Spaniard  more  nicely  marked, 
eren  to  their  boots  and  breeches  ;  the 
lances  of  the  guards  actually  ribrate. 
Obsenre  the  contrast  of  the  light  blue 
delicate  page  with  the  dark  iron-clad 
General  Spinola.'  (Ford.)  Velazquez 
painted  his  own  beautiful,  manly  head 
in  the  comer,  with  a  plumed  hat.  In 
the  background  Breda  appears  in  the 


distance.  Compare  this  with  the  same 
subject  by  Leonardo,  Na  348.  There 
is  the  diflerenoe  between  genius  and 
talent 

106.  The  forge  of  Vulcan.  Apollo, 
an  intimate  friend  of  Vulcan,  good- 
natuiedly  h*^"«  to  inform  him  of  his 
wife's  (Venus)  repeated  flirtations  with 
Mars.  Obserre  the  expression  of  sur- 
prise and  disgust  on  the  god's  counte- 
nance, and  that  of  the  bladcsmiths,  who 
suddenly  stop  their  work,  etc.  The 
beauty  of  human  form  makes  up  for 
the  want  of  dirinity  in  the  two  g<kU. 

166.    liU    Meninas,    literally   the 

female  minions  or  &TOurite  attendants : 

the  old  Norman  meynal^  from  meignee, 

£unily. 

'  And  oft  timet  him  to  toUoe 
Sir  Mirtbe  commeth  into  this  pbc«. 
And  eke  with  him  conuaeth  ha  ttmnt* 
Chaocbb,  X,  ^tht  R0m, 

The  scene  represented  in  the  picture 
takes  place  in  the  artist's  studio,  while 
he  is  pdnting  PhUip  IV.  and  his 
queen,  who  are  supposed  to  stand  where 
the  spectator  should  be,  so  as  to  be 
reflected  in  the  glass ;  otherwise  the 
painter  would  only  see  the  backs  of  his 
models,  an  error  often  committed  (as 
by  Goya,  in  'The  Family  of  Charles 
IV.),  but  which  Vekzques  was  and 
could  not  be  guilty  of.  The  name 
this  picture  is  gencimlly  known  by  has 
been  given  to  it  on  account  of  the  im- 
portant part  which  was  assigned  by  the 
artist  in  it  to  the  group  formed  by  tlie 
'menin^'  who  are  endeaTouring  to 
amuse  the  Infanta  Margarita,  daughter 
of  Philip  IV.,  who  is  standing  in  the 
foreground,  and  in  the  centre. 

'The  tone  of  oolourinff  is  sober  and  oool, 
perhaps  too  much  so.  (Sir  E.  Head.)  'A 
sorpristiv  piece  of  handling;  stDl  he  woald 
gain,  and  indeed  does  gain,  when  he  glaaes  his 
pictures.'  (Wilkie.)  When  it  was  finished 
Velaaquet  slx>%red  it  to  his  royal  patrol^  and 
inquired  if  there  was  nothing  wanting  T  *  One 
thing  only,*  answered  Philip^  and  taking  the 


276 


MADRID — ^FTCTUBS-OALLERT. 


p«dkc  frMi  Im  iMads,  be  painted  oa  the 
of  dbe  ptmter  wprmmcJ  oo  the  pSctnm  the 
Graaef  dbe  Order  of  Santiago^  the  aost  db- 
tivgmhed  b  SpMtt.  Oa  GiordaK^t  anival  at 
the  Court,  CSiariet  II.  showed  him  tUa  pafatt- 
inf :  'SeSor/  ewiaimed  the  artiat  laptutoualy, 
'it  li  the  goaptH  of  ait'  (l»  UoUgm  tU  Im 
Pimimrm.) 

246.  A  dwarf  leated  with  a  laige 
book. 

284.  Portrmit  known  u  '  El  nilio  de 
Yanacai.' 

201.  El  Bobo  de  Corla.  The  booby 
tjrpe  rendered  to  perlbctlon,  truly 
Bo^fiapot,  as  heary  as  an  ox. 

266.  A  Dwarf.  *  ye1a7.qnez  is  Tenl- 
en  on  a  large  scale.'    (WilUe. ) 

209.  Philip  IT.  on  Horseback.  A 
magnificent  portrait  It  served  as  a 
model  for  the  bronxe  statne,  carved  by 
MontaAes  and  cast  by  Pietro  Tacca ; 
now  in  Plaza  de  Oriente.  'The  horse 
is  alive,  and  knows  its  rider;  how 
ererytliing  tells  npon  the  cool  bine  and 
green  in  the  background  t '   (Ford.) 

'Look  on  that  equettriaa  portrait  of  hia 
(Velaaquei)  royal  friend,  Philip  IV.;  he  hat 
placed  him  amid  a  denuded  hmdacape,  Ibnited 
bjr  a  boundleai  horison,  lighted  up  on  all  aides 
by  the  tun  of  Spain,  without  a  shadow,  without 
any  chiaroecuro,  or  fv/MMamV,  of  any  sort 
....  and  yet,  behold  the  life  about  It  all  f 
(Vlaidot) 

177.  Portrait  of  the  Conde  Duqne 
de  OUrares.  'Nothing  can  be  finer 
than  the  effects  produced  by  the  chary 
use  of  gaudy  colour  in  this  picture,  but 
no  man  was  more  sparing  of  colour  ;  he 
husbanded  his  whites  and  even  yel- 
lowy which  tell  up  like  gold  on  his 
undertoned  backgrounds,  which  always 
represented  nature  with  the  intervention 
of  air.*     (Ford.) 

The  seat  ia  awkwardly  fotward,  and  the 
hone  jsmne  too  large  to  those  not  acquainted 
with  the  old  Spanish  breed.  OUvares  was 
Prime  Minister  and  fiivoarite>rAwdtr  of  Philip 
IV.  We  have  aeen  another  poftrmlt  of  OU« 
varea  at  Drasdea  (Picture  GaUery,  Na  togX 
holduic  n  P«P«r,  and  anperlor  to  this  one  in 
abe  by  Vcbaqusa.     This  other 


half  of  the  room  is  filled  ap  with  the  beat  ItaBaa 
pSctores:  mk  f0Pt fHmd^hum, 

640.  Landscape.  A  view  of  the 
Odle  (Avenue)  de  la  Reyna  in  the 
Gardens  of  Aianjnes.  WiUde  n- 
marks:  'YdazqueiistheonlySpanlah 
painter  who  seems  to  have  made  an 
attempt  in  landscape:  I  have  seen  some 
of  his,  most  original  and  daring.  Titian 
seems  to  be  hift  model,  and  although  he 
lived  before  the  time  of  Claude  and 
Salvator  Roaa,  they  were  contempo- 
raries. (The  former  died  1682,  the 
latter  1673,  and  Yelazques  1660.)  He 
appears  to  have  combined  the  breadtli 
and  picturesque  effect  for  which  those 
two  great  painters  were  so  remarkable.' 
This  view,  as  well  as  that  of  the  '  Fuente 
del  Araiy'ues,'  is  more  likely  to  be  by 
Maso  than  by  Velazquez. 

161.  The  Crucifixion  is,  in  our 
humble  opinion,  one  of  the  grandest 
conceptions  in  the  world.  Look  at  it 
<m^  and  you  will  see  it  for  ever  after- 
wardsL  Oh,  that  one  might  hear  Ros- 
sini's SiaJbaJt  IfaUr,  whilst  looking  upon 
that  sublime  vision  of  Sorrow  and  Hope! 

68.  Boar-hunt  in  the  Pardo.  A 
clever  copy  of  the  original,  which  was 
presented  by  Ferdinand  YII.  to  Lord 
Cowley,  and  purchased  by  Government 
for  £2200.  (Lord  Ashburton  possesses 
one  of  a  similar  subject) 

JiaphaeL 

884.  Visit  of  8t  Elizabeth  to  the 
Virgin.  Painted  for  one  Harinus  Bran- 
conins,  and  signed  'Raphael  Vrbinas 
F.'  It  was  taken  to  Paris  during  the 
Peninsular  War,  removed  there  firom 
board  to  canvas,  a  process  by  which  it 
has  been  saved  from  total  ruin»  but 
soaroely  touched,  though  over  var- 
nished. 

794.~Holy  Family,  tU  la  Jtoso.  Its 
authenticity  has  been  doubted,  but  the 
best  authorities  assert  it  peremptorily. 
*  On  y  reoonnatt,  dte  le  moimirt  ooop 


MADRID — ^nOTURK-OALLBRT. 


277 


d'oBil,  l*iiiimitabl»  main  da  maltre.' 
(YiAnlot)  What  maj  hare  led  to  saper- 
fidal  auppodtions  is  the  roseate  tint 
spread  aU  over,  and  oonstitating  a  /»• 
deur,  seldom  met  in  that  great  master*s 
pictures.  The  grouping;  ontlinei^  ex- 
pression, the  drawing  especially,  all 
render  this  a  magnificent  work.  '  I  be- 
liere  it  to  be  RaphaeFs,  because  I  kn6w 
of  no  painter  capable  of  producing  such 
a  masterpiece.'    (De  Ris.) 

784. — Christ  bearing  the  Cross,  or 
El  Pasmo  de  Sidlia.  Proceeds  from  the 
eouTent  of  Santa  Maria  deUo  Sposimo 
(the  Virgin's  Trance,  on  the  way  to 
If ount  dirtLrf),  in  Palermo,  for  which 
it  was  painted.  It  represents  the  mo- 
ment when  Christ  sinks  under  the  weight 
of  the  cross  ;  Simon,  the  Cyrenian,  re- 
liering  Him.  Crowds  of  soldiers  and 
people  fill  up  the  scene,  which  extends 
from  the  gates  of  Jerusalem  to  the  sum- 
mit of  Olivary,  which  is  seen  in  the 
distance. 

'And  there  followed  Him  a  great  company  of 
people,  and  of  women,  which  also  bewailed  and 
lamitntcd  him.  But  Jesus  turning  unto  diem 
said,  Dau^iten  of  Jerusalem,  weep  not  forme, 
but  weep  for  yoondhres,  and  for  ]roor  children.' 
(St.  Luke  xriiL) 

This  picture  is  perhaps  the  finest  in  the 
world.  Some  place  it  next  to  the  Trans- 
figuration. It  is  superior  to  it,  says 
Yiardot,  because  in  the  Spasimo  there 
is  unity  of  subject,  in  which  the  other 
lacks,  and  that  it  is  fr^  from  the  ana- 
chronisms so  noticeable  in  the  Trans- 
figuration. It  is  all  Raphael's,  for  in 
this  one  eren  Qiulio  Romano  had  not  the 
slightest  part  The  great  master  seems 
to  hare  been  pleased  with  the  work,  and 
signed  it,  which  he  seldom  did.  There 
is,  besides,  Tigour  in  the  expression ;  all 
is  more  forcible ;  the  only  inferiority 
lies  perhaps  in  the  colouring.  Mr.  Ford 
and  others  erroneously  ascribe  its  brick- 
dusty,  hard  tone,  to  its  being  repainted 
at  Ptoii^  and  a  second  time  at  Madrid 


in  1846.  The  colouring;  whateTer  its 
beauties  and  defects,  is  now  such  as 
Raphael  laid  on. 

It  was  sent  to  P^uis  in  tSis,  renw^ed  from 
boards  to  canTas  by  M.  Bownemaison,  and  dms 
saved  from  ndn,  just  as  the  Holy  Family  of  the 
Louvre,  etc.;  the  other  rmtkltu  tj^emHm, 
which  took  plaoe  at  Madrid,  was  limited,  w« 
bdieve,  to  varnishing.  Anexcdlcntcopyofthe 
Spasimo^  made  by  Juan  CarreSo  (1614— i68sX 
dating  about  1650^  and  now  in  the  third  room  of 
the  Royal  Academy  of  San  Fernando,  shows  the 
idenfical  brick-dusty,  hard  tone  of  the  original, 
iriudi  was  carefully  copied.  According  to  Va- 
sari,  the  female  with  oumtretohed  anas  rqire- 
sents  tha  Veronica;  and  he  adds  that  she  is 
'stretching  out  her  hands  to  him,  holding  a 
napkin  (or  kerchief).'  which  latter  is  said  by 
sooM  to  have  been  elbced  in  an  injury  during 
the  adventurous  journey  that  it  had  to  undetfo. 
The  ship  that  was  conveying  it  to  Palermo  was 
shipwrecked,  and  the  box  which  contained  it 
was  found  by  some  fishermen  on  the  shores  of 
the  Gulf  of  Genoa,  whence  it  was  sent  obce 
more  to  Palermo,  and  finally  to  Spain.  The 
female,  said  by  Vasari  to  be  intended  for  the 
Veronica,.is  considered  to  have  been  meant  to 
represent  no  other  but  the  mother  of  God;  and 
as  to  the  supposed  mt^kim,  there  is  no  vestige 
left  on  the  canvas  that  can  anthofisasMdi  a  sup- 
position. 

As  to  its  merits,  it  would  be  presump- 
tion to  criticise,  and  tedious  to  repeat 
the  raptures  into  which  all  loyers  of  the 
beautiful  hare  (alien  before  this  great 
dramatic  scene. 

786.— Holy  Family,  called  'LaPerla,' 
because  Philip  lY.,  on  beholding  it  for 
the  first  time,  issakl  to  haye  exclaimed, 
*  This  is  the  pearl  of  my  pietares  I* 
Others  assert  that  its  name  comes  frtim 
a  small  oyster  placed  among  the  dirine 
bambino's  playthings.  Howerer  this 
may  be^  Philip,  a  great  connoisseur, 
purchased  it  with  many  other  gems  at 
the  sale  of  the  Crown  property  of  Charles 
I.  by  the  Puritans;  he  paid  for  it  £^000. 
It  once  belonged  to  the  Dukes  of  M^nt^% 
and  was  purchased  by  Charles  I.  It 
belongs  to  the  transition,  second  manner 
of  Raphael  It  has  been  orer-cleaned, 
and  the  colour  has  consequently  lost 
much  of  its  depth.    The  bad[groQnd  is 


278 


MADRID — ^PICTURE-GALLERY. 


porpotelj  dark,  and  of  a  rich  brown.  It 
prooeedtfrom  theEsooriaL 

TiHan. 

686.— Charles  Y.  on  horseback. 
'The  finest  equestrian  picture  in  the 
world ;  it  is  more  sublime  and  poetical 
than  Yelazques,  yet  equally  true  to  life. ' 
(Ford).  This  well-known  and  cele- 
brated portrait,  cited  by  Titian's  bio- 
graphersy  is  one  of  his  grandest  histori- 
cal pages.  He  was  sent  sereral  times 
to  Augsburg  to  paint  the  portrait  of  the 
emperor,  and  no  statesman  or  historian 
ever  guessed  Charles's  genius  and  char- 
acter like  him.  This  picture  has  not 
suffered  by  restoration,  rery  few  bits 
haying  been  retouched.  It  is  as  fine  as 
ever.  The  ^uit  of  armour  that  serred 
as  a  model  is  kept  in  the  Armoria,  No. 
2808.  He  is  represented  here  as  he 
rode  before  his  army  at  the  battle  of 
Muhlbeig. 

821. — Allocution  of  Marqu^  del 
Yasto  to  his  troops.  Belonged  to  col- 
lection of  Charles  I.  of  En^and.  The 
colouring  is  beauttftd ;  restorations  haye 
injured  it  somewhat  Compare  the  ex- 
prassion  with  portrait  of  the  Marquis  by 
Titian  at  the  Louyre  (No.  470).  Alfonso 
d'Ayalos,  Marchess  del'  Guasto,  was  a 
great  patron  of  the  poets  and  artists  of 
his  time  (bom  1502  ;  died  1640).  He 
conmianded  the  army  of  Charles  Y.  in 
Italy,  and  lost  the  battle  of  Cerizola 
against  Francis  de  Bourbon,  Comte 
d'Enghien,  April  14,  1544. 

Danae.*  'A  aketch,  but  a  perfect 
gem,  and  when  seen  from  a  certain  dis- 
tance it  is  liying  flesh.'  (Ford).  It  was 
sayed  with  a  few  other  nudities  from 
among  the  flames  of  an  anto-de-f(&, 
kindled  expressly  for  the  destruction  by 
fire,  a  true^purifioation  of  mythologies 
peccant  pictures. 


*  Ponncrfyia  saodMr 
twofoUowiac. 


RMMBfMwdl  M  the 


Woman  on  couch.  A  naked  figure^ 
with  a  youth  playing  an  oigan. 

Woman  on  couch,  ditta  The  only 
difference  between  these  two  is  that  one 
bas  a  lap-dog^  and  the  other  a  winged 
boy ;  an  amour.  They  are  yery  Uke 
the  Yenuses  in  the  T^buna  at  Flor- 
ence. 

787.  Prometheus.  A  colossal  figure, 
a  pendant  to  Sisyphus.  Obsenre  an 
imitation  by  Ribera,  No.  121,  and  note 
the  differences  of  style. 

812.  Adam  and  Eye.  Yery  power- 
ful, but  not  pleasing.  It  was  Rubens' 
fayourite.  When  this  Flemish  master 
came  to  Madrid  in  1028,  to  study  the 
colouring  of  the  Yenetisn  school,  he 
admired  this  picture  yeiy  especially,  and 
made  of  it  a  yeiy  caraftd  copy  (No. 
1000)  for  the  Prince  of  Wales  (Charles 
I.),  whose  admiration  for  Titian's  works 
was  so  great  that  Philip  lY.  made  him 
a  present  of  the  Yenus  del  Pardo  (Ju- 
piter and  Antiope),  which  Philip  III. 
prized  as  the  gem  of  his  wonderful  col- 
lection. 

762.  The  Gloria,  or  Apotheosis  of 
Charles  Y.  and  Philip  II.  Aboye  and 
next  to  the  Holy  Trinity  stands  the 
Yiigin;  to  the  right,  Charles  I.  and 
Philip  IL  The  former  in  the  monk's 
frock,  which  bespeaks  San  Yuste  and 
Humility ;  the  latter,  as  well  as  the 
two  Queens,  in  their  regal  robes.  It  is, 
according  to  some,  the  mssterpiece  of 
Titian,  and  had  it  not  been  cruelly  re- 
painted, would  leaye  no  room  for  doubt 
It  dates  about  1550,  and  was  therefore 
painted  when  the  artist  was  eighty  years 
old  ;  but  though  the  contrary  is  often 
asserted,  genius,  like  wine,  ripens  with 
age,  losing  the  acidity  and  rawness  of 
youth,  to  acquire  mellowness,  strength, 
soul,  aroma.  The  finest  works  of  art 
and  letters  are  generally  the  last— the 
setting  suns  of  master-minds.  Ob* 
senre  eyerything  here;  the  'general 
effect  of  light  and  colour ;  the  mu$mbU 


MADRID— PICTURB-GALLERY. 


272 


of  the  groQpt;  the  Noah  and  Moecs 
more  eapedallj.'  The  colonring  is 
saperh.  Charies  Y.  ordered  hj  will 
that  it  ahonld  be  hong  OTer  hit  tomh. 
It  was  remoTed  from  Ynste  to  the  £a- 
oorial  by  order  of  Philip  II. 

80e.  Chriit  dispatiiig  with  the  Doc- 
tors. '  Thej  found  him  in  the  temple 
sitting  in  the  midst  of  the  doctors,  both 
in  hearing  them  and  asking  them  ques- 
tions ;  and  all  that  heard  him  were 
astonished  at  his  onderstanding  and 
answers.'    (Lake  iL) 

et  boa  goAt  dea  orneoieas,  Jurtewi,  yirmdM 
chanae  d«  la  oouleur;  noUcMe,  nuri^  ct 
infrit^  dea  portraits.'  (Vkniot).  Itb  iatemt- 
inf  to  ooopart  the  cast  of  tha  conotaaaiicea, 
dreaa,  etc,  of  thia  with  the  aaaa  aubject 
treated  by  Mr.  HoIsmd  Hunt. 

8dfa$Utm  del  Pi&mbo. 

768.  Christ  in  Hades.  This  msgni- 
6oent  painting,  as  well  as  the  Holy 
Family  at  Naples,  and  the  Resnrrectioa 
of  Lazams  in  the  National  Gallery, 
London  (No.  1),  proceeds  from  the  Ar- 
gerstein  Collection.  This  is  considered 
snperior  to  the  latter.  The  composi- 
tion has  more  life ;  the  dark  tone  is 
not  so  enggerated,  and  the  peispectiTe 
so  narrow  and  short 

'The  colmirif  ia  powerful,  without  way  de- 
fect, aod  worthy  altogether  of  Giorgiooe.' 
(Viardot) 

OuidoJUni, 
751.  Madonna  of  the  Chair.  Pro- 
ceeds from  the  EsooriaL  It  is  one  of 
his  masterpieces  in  his  best  style,  and 
before  he  fell  into  that  InTariable  pale, 
/adt  mannerism,  which,  with  a  mono- 
tony of  attitude,  characterises  his  latter 
worksL  This  is  M.  Yiardot's  opinion, 
repeated  (as  usual,  with  the  pictures  of 
this  gallery)  by  Mr.  Ford,  and  who  has 
done  little  else  than  follow  his  criti- 
cism and  translate  his  obserrationa. 


886.  Santiago.  The  Tutelar  of 
Spain.  The  old  Spanish  war-cry  was 
'  Santiago  y  derra  Espalia  V 

684.  St  Sebastian.     'Theyaieboth 

painted  in  the  forcible  style  of  (3ara- 

yaggio,  but  with  a  keener  sense   of 

beauty  and  grace.'    In  these  pictures 

'hehoyers  between  the  Ribera  style, 

thou^  softened  by  the  study  of  Cor- 

regio  and   Murillo*s  ealida  manner.' 

(Yiardot) 

A  replicft  of  that  at  the  Louvre  (No.  33a), 
asd  pufchaaed  by  Lonia  XIV.  in  167a  There 
are  aeveral  in  «liirerent  gaUeriea,  asd  one  io 
thatof  the  lafiutfe  Don  Sebaattaa,  at  Madrid. 

TiiUontUK 

770.  Moses  found. 

704   La  Gloria.     It  is  the  sketch  of 

the  painting  which   is   seen .  in   the 

council-room  of  the  Doge's  Palace  at 

Yenice,  and  was  brought  from  Italy 

by  Yelaiques  for  PhiUp  lY.    <L'on  y 

trouTe^  comme  dans  le  tableau,  oette 

fougue  impituettse   et  irrifl^chie,  cet 

entntnement,  cette  fi^yre  qui  6t  ap- 

pelerTintoretXsiWincs.'    (Yiardot). 

There  b  a  aketch  of  aame,  ahc  byTiatocetto, 
at  the  Mocenigo  Palace  at  Vcoice.  It  hat 
aome  analogy  with  the  Paradiw  at  the  Louvre 
(No.  3SiX  emmeoudy  cooaidered  by  aome  aa 
another  aketch  of  the   San  Marca     Grand 


760.  Judith  and  HolophemesL  'Yery 
grand  and  moat  eflectiTe.' 

774.  A  Sea-fight  *  Great  energy, 
life,  and  moTcment;  perhaps  a  little 
confused.'  (Yiardot)  It  has  been  re- 
painted. 

The  aul^iect  ia  a  aittda  between  Turica  and 
Venetiana  in  the  Archipelago;  the  principal 
figure  ia  that  of  a  young  frnuila.  fcrwhoae 
aake  the  fight  b  probably  taking  place.  Tbe 
colouring  b  beanttlul,  tho««h  it  haa  loat  of  ita 


F,  Fiunnf\ 
877.  A  mystical  sulject,   probably 
intended  for  the  Interoeasioii  of  the 
Yiigin  in  fsTour  of  Mankind.    One  ol 
Us  masterpii 


280 


MADmO — PIOTUBS-OALLERY. 


J.  BasmM, 
708.    Noah's  Ark.     This  painting 
was  purchasad  by  Titian  in  Italy,  and 
sent  to  Spain  by  order  of  Charles  Y. 

679.  The  Council  Rooin  at  Venice. 
The  Doge  is  sitting  in  state,  and  the 
Senate  is  assembled  for  the  reception  of 
a  foreign  ambassador.  All  the  figures 
are  portraits. 

It  hat  been  till  verjr  lately  ascribed  to  Tinto- 
retto, and  was.  well  worthy  of  hiaa ;  bat,  ac- 
cording  to  RidoUi,  it  was  painted  by  Pietro 
MakMnbra  (X556-16X8X  and  brought  to  Spain 
with  several  others  by  D.  Alfonso  La  Cueva, 
Spanish  ambassador  at  Venice. 

DomenickAikO, 

680.  St  Jerome  in  the  Wilderness. 
Probably  a  pendant  to  the  Last  Com- 
munion of  St  Jerome  at  the  Vatican. 

706.  Sacrifice  of  Abraham.  These 
are  the  two  only  examples  of  this 
Bdognese  painter  in  this  gallery.  The 
former  is  especially  fine.  Viardot  as- 
serts that  there  is  no  panting  of  this 
master  in  Spain. 

Pdhna  Ou  Youmger, 
788.  A  mystic  subject,  being  the 
Spiritual   Betrothal  of  St  Catherine 
with  the  Infant  Jesus. 

8AZ.I.   DS   I8ABBL   XZ. 

Bajifuul, 
741.  Virgin  of  the  Fish,  or  ToHt  and 
the  Fish.  '  La  supreme  expression  de 
la  noblesse  et  de  la  migest^.'  (Viardot) 
The  mother  of  Qod  is  seated  on  a 
throne,  holding  the  infant  Deity  in  her 
arms.  The  diyine  Bambino,  with  a 
hand  |daoed  upon  a  book  which  St 
Jerome  is  reading;  turns  towards  Tobit, 
who  is  led  by  St  Baphael  (the  master's 
portrait  probably)  to  the  foot  of  the 
throne^  before  which  he  kneels.  The 
sutject  is  considered  by  some  to  repre- 
sent the  admission  of  the  Book  of 
Tobit  as  a  canonical  book.  It  was 
wxitten  about  two  centuries  B.a ;  the 


Babbis  do  not  hold  it  to  haye  been 
divinely  inspired,  and  Christians 
adopted  it  only  in  the  beginning  of  the 
16th  century.  St  Jerome^  a  prominent 
figure  in  the  painting;  translated  it  for 
the  first  time  from  Chaldaic  into  Latin. 
This  picture  dates  1514. 

Viardot  is  of  opinion  that  it  is  one  of  the  first 
examples  of  the  mastet'sthird  manner.  It  was 
painted  for  the  church  of  St  Dominidt  at 
Naples.  During  an  epidemic  which  affected 
the  sight  a  chapd  was  built  in  that  diurch,  un- 
der the  invocation  of  the  Virgin,  and  specially 
used  for  prayers  in  behalf  of  those  so  ^<Hffif^, 
It  was  upon  this  occasicm,  and  for  this  chapel, 
that  Ri^had  was  ordered  the  present  picture 
(15x5)*  Such  is  Vasari's  explanation  of  the 
subject,  whilst  £.  David  gives  the  former  one. 
It  was  sent  to  Paris  about  iSxs,  and  leaoved 
from  board  to  canvas,  and  is  uninjured.  It 
is,  according  to  the  best  judges  in  the  matter, 
the  finest  madonna  painting  by  Raplmel,  next 
to  that  'deUaScggioh'  at  the  PitU  Pabce. 

006.  Portrait  of  a  Cardinal,  sup- 
posed to  be  that  of  Cardinal  Julio  de 
MedicL 

'Heureux  ceux  qui  peuvent  revivre  ainsi 
aprte  trois  cent  dnquante  ans  !*  (De  Ris.) 
There  b  a  semblance  of  life  in  those  blue, 
serious,  and  scrutinising  eyes,  so  full  of  intellect 
and  Heaven ;  a  motion  in  the  compressed  lips; 
blood  that  is  seen  circulating  freely  under  the 
skb,  so  mudi  air  around  it  and  individual  iden- 
tity  that  are  absolutely  startlbg.  Biography 
when  written  by  such  men  as  Velaxqnei,  Rj^)h> 
ad.  Van  Dyck,  etc.,  b  truly  a  resurrection. 
Tbb  '  Cardinal'  ushers  in  a  whole  epoch  of  the 
human  mind — Italy  in  the  16th  century. 

Observe  also  No.  901  (in  the  Long 
Boom\  another  fine  portrait,  said  to  be 
that  of  Andrea  NaTsgiero,  author  of  a 
'Yiaggio  in  Spagua,'  etc.,  and  ambas- 
sador of  Venice  to  Charles  Y.,  but  it  is 
more  likely  that  of  Count  de  Csstiglione, 
from  its  likeness  to  that  of  this  patron 
of  Raphael's  at  the  Louyre,  No.  388. 
A  replica  at  the  Doria  Palace. 

708.  Holy  Family.  Bordering  on 
miniature  painting;  on  wood,  and 
therefore  somewhat  iigured.  Claims 
loudly  for  remoral  to  canras  to  aroid 
imminent  ruin.  Great  finish  in  the 
figures ;  dates  1607. 


MADRID — ^PICrURS-OALLBRT. 


281 


SOatL  dd  Piambo. 

770.  Christ  bearing  the  Cross.  Half- 
figures^  from  the  Esoorial,  where  it  hnng 
in  the  choir ;  quite  worthy  of  that  Dante 
of  painting ;  a  rision  of  saintly  terror ; 
rery  grand,  veiy  awf oL 

Andrea  del  Sarto, 

ee4.  Portrait  of  the  Master's  wife, 

the  fair  and  frail  Lucresia  del  Fede  (I), 

for  whose  sake  and  caprices  the  painter, 

enamoored  of  form  more  than  of  sonl, 

foigot  and  foigave  everything  so  that 

he  might  be  allowed  to  gaze  upon  that 

beaatifal  creature.    It  was  ill  restored 

in  1888. 

An  adiiitren  of  Alfred  de  Musset  wUl  remem- 
berhisdrmiBa  'Andrtfdel  Sarto,' aad  the  part 
thk  wonan  (' Je  raimait  d'an  amour  iodifftnia- 
aable  1')  plays  in  it       • 

68L  Holy  Family.  There  are  two 
replicas  in  tliis  gallery,  though  the 
No.  911  has  been  ascribed  to  his  pupil 
Andrea  Squaszella.  There  is  another, 
we  beliere^  in  M.  Bee's  collection  at 
Marseilles. 

P,  vercHSStt 

601.  Moses  Found.  '  Fin  et  char- 
mant  b^ou,  qui  r6unit  un  inginieux 
arrangement  et  un  dessin  correct  (?)  A 
1a  plus  ezquise  d^licatesse  du  pinceau.' 
(Viardot)  'A  charming  gay  cabinet 
pictore^  ascribed  by  some  to  Tintoretto.  • 

OUmde  de  Lorraine, 

075.  Sunset     A  landscape,  with  an 

anchorite   on    the   fofeground.     The 

figure   is   by  Francesco  AHegrini   da 

Qubbio  ;  wild  scenery,  somewhat  daric 

It  truly  i>  'a  place  of  prayer,  and  a  aort  of 
priioii,  wherein  I  chained  my  miaerable  body/ 
at  St.  Jerome  describes  one  of  those  secluded, 
rodcy  retreats  of  the  earliest  solitode-oeddnf 
Christiana.  Ahnost  all  the  Chuides  here  are 
P^^^^f^f^  and  of  value. 

1040..  A  Landscape.  On  the  fore- 
ground, to  left,  Dians  asleep,  watched 
by  a  sa^ ;  on  the  right  aa  Awumr,  or 


messenger  of  Lore,  is  busy  picking 
flowers.  Exquisite^  and  more  truthful 
to  nature  than  is  usually  the  case  with 
this  classical  master. 


SembraiuU, 
1880.  Queen  Arthemisft  about  to 
swallow  the  ashes  of  her  husband. 
Superb ;  a  masterpiece  of  this  king  of 
chiaroscuro.  The  pseudo^niental  cos- 
tume is  beautifully  painted.  It  is 
signed,  *  1084— Rembrandt  f '  It  is 
thought  to  represent  the  wife  of  the 
srtist,  Saskia  Van  Uylembuig^  whom 
he  married  June  22,  1684. 

Hubena, 

126L  llie  Brazen  Serpent  It  is 
signed,  a  very  exceptional  case  with 
this  painter.  It  must  be  looked  upon 
as  one  of  his  masterpieces.  'And 
Moses  made  a  serpent  of  brass  and  put 
it  upon  a  pole,  and  it  came  to  pass  that 
if  a  serpent  had  bitten  any  man,  when 
he  beheld  the  serpent  of  brass  he  lired' 
(Numb.  xzL  6-9).  It  is  either  the 
original  or  a  superior  replica  to  that  of 
same  subject  and  master  in  the  National 
Gallery,  Na  59. 

1845.  Portrait  of  Maria  de  MedicL 
Very  fine  ;  a  sketch  from  a  laige  paint- 
ing in  the  gallery  of  Luxembourg. 

1442.  St  Oeoige  and  the  Dragon. 

VanDyek. 

1407.  The  Earl  of  Bristol  and  the 
Painter.  The  former,  to  the  right, 
dressed  in  white;  to  the  left,  the 
painter,  dressed  in  black.  Oompare 
the  ^tfct,  not  the  means  employed, 
produced  by  portraits  by  Yelasques, 
and  those  by  Van  Dyck. 

1246.  The  Oounteai  of  Oxford.  'Un 
des  plus  prodigieux  et  des  plus  raris- 
sants  de  son  oeurre  enti^re.*  (Viardot) 
In  a  comer  of  the  painting  is  the  in- 
scription, 'The  Govntes  of  Oxford— A. 
Van  Dydc,  1<»8. 

1447.  Portrait  of  liberti,  ta  Ant- 


282 


MADBID — ^nCTURB-GALLERT. 


werp  ofguiist  Probablj  dutet  ten 
yean  before  lie  painted  that  of  the 
OoimteH  of  Oxford,  and  was  executed 
during  hit  residence  at  Antwerpi 

1607.  The  Treachery  of  Jndas.  May 
be  considered  his  masterpiece.  The 
head  of  Christ  ii  magniikent;  ex- 
prcssire  of  deep  contempt  and  diTine 
resignation.  Tlie  colooring;  effect  of 
ton^light,  etc,  are  all  wodderfoL  In 
the  oompoaition,  hypercritics  find  some 
confnsbn,  and  bliune  the  threefold 
action. 

Vamrder-VeydtaiL     (Beginning  of  10th 
centory ;  bom  at  Brussels.) 

1046.  Descent  from  the  Cross.  Wood 
or  gilt  background ;  Tery  fine  indeed. 

UvntggUf, 

881.  Holy  Family.  The  authenticity 
of  this  pictare  has  been  doubted,  but 
with  less  reason  than  that  of  same 
master,  Na  809. 

TiHam. 

'  702.  A  mystic  subject  An  exYoto, 
representing  St  Brigit  offering  flowers 
to  the  Infuit  Ddty,  placed  in  His 
mother's  arms,  whilst  HuUus,  her 
husband,  stands  by  her  side^  clad  in 
armour.  The  Tery  best  Judges  all  say 
it  is  a  Titian,  and  one  of  his  master- 
piecei.  The  able  director,  Sr.  Madrazo, 
is  oouTinced,  among  others,  that  tlus 
magnificent  picture  it  by  him,  and  not 
by  Qiorgione,  to  whom  it  has  been 
hitherto  ascribed  and  put  down  in  the 
catalogue. 

862.  Offering  to  Fecundity.  'Of 
marrellous,  incredible  execution;  &r 
outstrips  Albano^  the  poet  of  secrets 
and  lore.  This  was  the  picture  which, 
when  at  Rome^  in  the  Ludorid  Palace, 
was  studied  and  so  often  copied  by 
Poussin,  and  contributed  to  improye 
\JiM  colouring;  somewhat  cold  and  life- 
less at  that  time,  teaching  him  more- 


orer  how  to  paint  those  playftil  children 
which  threw-  such  charm  orer  aereral 
of  his  compositions^  espedslly  on  that 
of  the  Bacchanal'    (Yiardot) 

864.  A  Bacchanal.  On  the  foreground 
the  fair  Ariadne  ia  asle^  baring  beoi 
abandoned  in  the  Isle  of  Naxos  by  the 
fSuthless  Theseus.  Dances,  copious 
libations,  and  Teniers-like  detail,  fill 
up  the  picture.  On  a  height,  Silenns 
adeep,  and  in  the  distance,  the  ship 
bearing  Theseus  it  seen  sailing  away. 
It  ia  one  of  tlus  master'sfinest  pictuiea. 

MoTo.    (Anth.  Moor;  bom  at  Utrecht, 

1512.) 

1446.  Queen  Mary  of  En^and,  the 
wife  of  Philip  IL  The  artist  was  sent 
to  England  to  take  the  likeness  of 
Bloody  Mary  and  of  Philip.  For  that 
of  the  queen  he  receiTed  £100  and  a  gold 
ring,  besides  his  aalary  of  £100. 

The  run-lenftli  portnuts  at  Wobuni,  ia  the 
poMCMioo  of  the  Duke  of  Bedibffd,  Mca  yicely 
to  be  orifinala,  from  which  the  preeeat  hatf> 
length  portnit  would  be  a  copy  (may  be  by 
Moor  himadO*  Waagcn,  however  doubts 
their  femuneneia.  There  are  portnuts  of 
Mary  by  Moor  at  HasBptoa  Court  aod  at  Castle 
Howard. 

100.  St  Peter  Nolasco  aaleep.  An 
angel  In  a  Tision  points  to  him  the 
Heayenly  Jerusalem.  Very  fine  and 
a  mastcrpieoe  of  the  ^Spanish  Oara- 
Taggia' 

MwriUo, 

202.  The  Infant  Saviour  giving  to 
drink  out  of  a  shell  to  St  John,  a 
Shepherd-boy.  Known  as  'LosNiAoa 
de  Is  Concha.'  An  exquisite  painting, 
very  popular,  and  frequently  copied. 

lOL  Adoration  of  Shepherds.  '  Per- 
fect Observe  the  contntft  of  the  divine 
group  of  Jesus  and  His  mother  to  the 
strictly  human  one  of  the  shepherds 
led  by  an  angel  near  the  eradle.    In 


MADBH) — PICrURE-aALLERT. 


283 


the  representation  of  these  dode,  of 
their  sheepekine,  of  their  dogs,  the 
ftrtist  displays  a  power  and  tmth  never 
equalled  before.'     (Viardot) 

138.  The  Drunkards  {'Lot  Sorra- 
{Ao$').  '  'One  of  the  master's  finest 
worksL  The  homour  and  feeling  are 
only  snrpassed  by  the  execution,  which, 
in  details,  such  as  the  bowl  of  wine,  is 
most  marrellous.  At  the  same  time, 
the  whole  picture  has  the  force  and 
breadth  of  Carrayagio  or  Bibera. '  (Sir 
E.  Head.)  Before  this  masterpiece, 
Wilkie^  who  studied  Yelazques  Tery 
especially,  used  to  sit  for  hours  in  silent 
and  erery  day  more  intense  admiration. 
For  everything  is  perfect  in  this  mock 
coronation  of  a  drinker  by  his  drunken 
comrades  —  Grouping,  expression,  co- 
louring, intet%cion,  as  the  Spaniards  say. 

We  know  only  two  bdngt  worthy  of  i^tpre- 
oating  all  the  merit  of  die  lanas  and  the 
borrachoe,  and  both  pcnoaily  two  sides  of  the 
Spanish  national  character — Don  Quixote, 
whose  eyes  on  seeing  the  fwmer  would  flash 
widi  prkle  and  martial  ardour,  and  Sancho 
Pansa,  whose  lips  would  smack  before  the 
latter    a  groups  and  scene,  and  art  after  his 


107.  Portrait;  supposed  to  be  that 
of  an  actor  in  the  reign  of  Philip  lY. 

81*  Portrait  of  Alfonso  Cana 

ie&  The  Infanta  Margarita  Maria 
of  Austria,  dau^ter  of  PhiUp  IT.,  the 
same  which  we  see  in  the  Meninas. 

885.  TheS^iimiets{*L(uHilamderas*), 
or  Tapestry-making.  Whilst  in  the 
foreground  several  women  are  spinning, 
and  otherwise  employed  in  preparing 
materials  for  making  tapestry,  in  the 
background  a  specimen  of  the  manufac- 
ture is  being  shown  to  ladiesi  The 
subject  of  the  tnpestiy  is  the  '  Bape  of 
Europa,'  from  the  painting  by  Titian, 
once  in  Se&or  de  Josi  Madrazo's  valu- 
able collection,  from  which  it  has 
recently  passed  to  Marquis  de  Sala- 
manca's c^ery. 


It  was  copied  by  Rubens  for  Charles  I.  of 
England,  when  only  Prince  of  Wales,  and  is 
now  m  this  gallery.  No.  1588.  It  b  the  triumph 
of  chiaroHCuro,  and  well  mi^it  Moratin  say  of 
that  true /Atf^i^prapber,  'pinUelaire,'hepainU 
the  very  airl 

116.  Jacob's  Ladder.  One  of  hl» 
masterpieces ;  in  his  transition  manner, 
hovering  between  Caravaggio  and  Cor- 
reggia  The  sombre,  fiery,  powerfnl 
genius  of  that  true  painter  of  the  In- 
quisition and  anatomists,  is  seen  here 
in  all  its  character.  The  monk  at  the 
foot  of  the  ladder  is  a  semi-bandido, 
Spanish  mendicant  The  type  is  com- 
mon, but  how  forcible  the  execution.! 
how  wild  the  scenery  I  what  effects  of 
light  on  the  whole  I 

878.  Portrait  of  himself;  signed  1498, 
Albrecht  Diirer  and  his  monogram,  and 
the  words  '  Disss  malt  ich  nach  meine 
Qestalt;  ich  war  sechs  und  swanrig 
jar  alt,'  and  was,  therefore,  twenty-six 
when  it  was  painted.  It  has  been  en- 
graved by  him. 

Bwnsino,    (Angelo  Allari.) 
784.  A  portrait 

lOia  A  portrsit,  and  truly  one  of 
'Un  hombre  4  una  naris  pegado,'  as 

Quevedo  has  it    It  is  excellent 

< 

Palma  i3u  Elder.    (Beginning  of  16th 
century.) 
786.  Adoratbn  of  Shepherds 

Boom  on  right  of  Bntraaoo  HalL 
Bibera, 

181.  Prometheus.  It  is  JBschylus 
translated  on  canvas  by  a  Spanish  In- 
quisitor. Never  was  torture,  imfmeHale 
$eewr,  physical  pain,  repreMuted  with 
that  energy,  Huit  fkria  of  colour,  and 
boldness  of  outlines. 

440.  San  Boque  and  his  Dog. 


284 


MADRID — ^nOrUBS-OALLBRY. 


MurUio. 

53.  Oonyerrion  of  St  P«iiL  The 
thi|^  of  the  Apostle  end  the  hone  hare 
beoi  npeinted. 

822.  Portimit  of  Father  nehenfllei,  a 
monk. 

Mato, 

18L  Portimit  of  a  captain  in  the  reign 
of  PhiUp  IT. 

288.  Sta.  CbaUda. 

Boom  on  left  of  Bntranoe  Hall. 
Salvaiar  Saaa, 

.  748  Tiew  of  the  Bay  and  City  of 
Salerno.  'Un  pea  de  pAlenr  dana  le 
ton  g^n^raL'  (Yiardot)  The  details 
of  sea,  land,  uid  sky,  are  nerertheless 
handled  with  the  usual  mastery  of  that 
painter. 

Sa$$ofirrato, 

888.  The  Infant  Deity  asleep  in  His 
mother^s  arms. 

Botunda  (Frenoh  and  Qerman 
Bohools).* 

988.  Mount  Pamassos.  On  the 
foreground  the  Nymph  Castalia  and  her 
urn:  'Drink  deep^  or  taste  not  the  Cas- 
talian  spring  I'  In  the  distance  rises 
the  steep  hill,  on  which  Apollo  stands, 
welcoming  a  poet  whom  Thalia  and 
Calliope  are  crowning  with  laurel  On 
one  side  Dante,  Petrarca,  Ariosto^  and 
other  Italian  poets  are  grouped ;  on  the 
other  the  classics,  Homer  ('Questi  h 
Omero,  poeta  soyrano,')  Virgil,  Horace, 
etc.,  thus  placing  on  a  parallel  the  great 
ages  of  Pagan  and  Christian  Italy. 

*  The  pa*HUo»,  or  corridon^  round  the  Ro- 
tunda are  filled  with  conpanthrely  indiAncot 
pictures..  The  Flemiah  and  Dutch  pictures  here 
areof  rery  great  inportance,  and  moot  numer- 
ous. Their  genuinences  is  undoubted:  and 
they  have  all  eacaped  over^raraish  reiiaintii^ 
and  other  such-like  hindlii^. 


070.  A  landscape^  one  of  his  hest 
here. 

008.  A  Toy  fine  landMape,  with  cas- 
cades^ Tiew  of  a  dty,  and  on  the  fore- 
ground the  Magdalene,  etc. 

1081.  A  Landscape,  the  Bising  Sun ; 
subject^  the  female  Boman  Saint,  Paula, 
embarking  for  the  Holy  Land,  Tory  fine ; 
the  figures  by  Jacques  Courtois. 

1080.  A  Landscape^  Setting-sun; 
snbject^  Tobit  and  the  AngeL  The 
figures  by  J.  Courtois.  These  two^  with 
the  Moeee  Found,  and  a  View  of  the 
Coliseum,  were  painted  for  the  King 
of  Spain,  and  the  sketcheswerepreserred 
by  the  master  and  collected  carefully. 

This  colkction  passed  firom  the  FUnk  collec- 
tion at  Rotterdam,  into  that  of  Devonshire 
House,  and  was  engraved  in  Ixmdoo  by  Frariom, 
in  1777.    The  Oaudes  here  are  all  undefiled. 

WW    SwV^^^w^^Ve 

071.  Une  F6te  ChampStre.  It  is  the 
original,  we  beUere,  of  the  celebrated 
< Marine  de  Tillage.' 

OOL  A  Fountain  in  the  Pare  de  St 
Cloud. 

iMcaa  Cra/nadi, 

1006  and  1020.  Hunting  the  Deer. 
The  stout,  FalstaflT-looking  Elector  of 
Saxony,  Frederick  III.,  is  a  prominent 
feature  in  the  scene.  In  the  distance 
on  a  hei^t  rises  the  old  ducal  palace  of 
Wittembeig.   > 

JmmM  BoKh  (1460-1518). 

1018.  Triumph  of  Death,  and  his 
thrfe  scenes  of  Temptation  of  St  An- 
thony (Noe.  440,  466,  466).  A  mixture 
of  Hoflinan  and  Madness. 

Boom  on  the  right  of  the  Trenoh 
and  Qerman  8ohools<-<nemish 
and  Butoh  Bohools). 

VanDyek. 

1808.  Portrait  of  Heniy,  Count  do 
Beig. 


MADRID — ^nOTURIMALLERY. 


280 


1804.  ACai-alier.    All  excellent 

Snyder, 

1405.  Aop'e  Fable  of  the  Lion  and 
the  Moose  (so  admirably  translated  bj 
La  Fontaine). 

160L  Qnarrelsome  fowls.  Admirable. 

BrtughtL 

1422, 1428.  Landscapes,  with  a  mar- 
keting  and  junketing: 

1407.  Landscape ;  with  8t  Enstace 
(by  Rnbens). 

/Fottofrmofis. 

1468*  Sportsmen  fording  a  Birer. 
Very  fine. 
1678.  Departure  from  an  Inn. 
1610.  Halt  at  a  Oonntry  Inn. 

Rubens, 

1675*  Rudolph  of  Hapsbnrg  lends 
his  Horse  ^  a  Priest,  who  is  beiffing  the 
Host  Rudolph's  head  and  attitude  are 
admirable.  ThelandscapeisbyWildens. 

1676.  The  Garden  of  LoTe.      <An 

exquisite  composition,  remarkable^  as 

much  for  the  delicacy  and  warmtii  of 

the  touch,  as  for  its  details.'    (Y.)    A 

smaller  replica  at  the  Dresden  Oalleiy, 

Na  889,  and  probably  the  sketch  of 

this  one. 

The  lady  friom|Minifd  by  a  cavalier,  on  the 
left  and  on  the  feregnmnd,  it  the  pottnit  of 
Hcftoe  Foonnent,  Ae  peintei't  eecoad  wife ; 
the  types  helong  to  the  '  fiu,  fiur,  and  forty,* 
Cuuly,  e^eddly  petrooited  by  Geoige  III. 

1615.. Portrait  of  Thomas  Moms. 
Superb. 

Twien, 

1601.  A  Landscape.   A  Oipsy  Scene. 

namiflh  and  Dutch  Boom  to  Iiefl. 

iMsiu. 

11900206.  POTtraits  of  Archduke 
Albert  and  his  wife  Isabel  The  land- 
scape in  both  is  by  Breughel 

1216.  Combat  of  the  La^thiB.  *yery 
powerful 

1220.  Holy  Famfly.  A  replica  of  the 


St  George  at  Rubens'  chapel  at  Ant- 
werp. 

186&  Portrait  of  a  French  Princess, 
probably  ar  eplica  of  that  at  the  Lourre, 
of  Elisabeth,  daughter  of  Marie  de  Me- 
dici, who  was  inarried  to  Philip  IT. 
(1615).    Very  fine. 

WwwerwoiHM, 
1888.  Party  passing  a  Rirer.    Com- 
pare this  with  1463.     Excellent     *A 
perfect  gem.*    (Ford.) 

D.  TeiUen, 

1274.  The  painter  showing  to  the 
Archduke  Albert  the  picture-gallery 
which  he  had  formed  by  his  order. 
The  master  signed  '  Pintor  de  la  Ca- 
mera (for  Gdmara)  de  S.  A.  8'  (Su 
Altesa  Serenisima).  It  is  curious  and 
important,  as  the  pictures  hong  on  the 
Wills  are  all  well  known,  and  painted 
in  the  style  of  the  difierent  masters. 
Daniie,  Caliztus,  etc,  by  Titian  and 
others,  are  represented  here.  It  is  on 
copper. 

1204.  La  Gradosa  Fregatris  (bur- 
nisher, scrubber,  as  in  the  celebrated 
Terse,  '  en  una  de  fngu  cmj6  caldera'). 
One  of  his  best  here. 

1286.  Temptations  of  St  Anthony. 
A  farourlte  subject  with  this  painter, 
and  with  the  usual  detail  of  an  egg  out 
of  which  a  pullefs  head  is  peeping; 
but  his  Kermesses  are  his  trium^ 
Obsenre  Na  1880,  and  his  monk^r% 
lo9  numo$  de  Teniere,  Noa.  1828,  1829, 
and  1270. 

A  mnd  Feeat,  with  thnt  other  omnl  oonne 
detail,  mmimrmi  tho««h  it  he  in  beerdfinkii« 


Snyder. 

1280^7,  86,  and  8&  Tery  fine  Dog 
and  Game  Sulyects. 

P.  i^H/k. 

1874.76.  (Sothio  Church  Interion. 
Figures  by  Frank ;  veiy  fine  and  pan* 
dants. 


286 


MADRID— nOTURS-GALLERT. 


FanDyek. 

1808.  AMusioian. 

1382.  Chariot  I.  ou  Horaebtok.  A 
replica  in  reduced  proportions  of  that 
at  Hampton  Court 

BaJa^  (Staircaae)  to  the  Qronnd- 
floor.   (Kow  Plamlah  Booma.) 

The  walla  are  hong  with  indifferent 
pictares.  Besides  a  colossal  head  by 
Carducci,  No.  1626,  and  some  copies, 
we  may  luetition  (1687  -  88),  two  flower- 
pieces,  by  NiuEzi,  better  known  as  Mario 
do  Fiori,  and  1641,  a  hage  Beheading 
of  St  John  the  Baptist  The  fore- 
ground ii  filled  with  the  Banquet  of 
Herod  Antipas,  and  Salome,  who  bears 
the  Baptist's  head.  The  background 
and  group  to  the  right  are  not  by  the 
same  author. 

All  Um  figures  art  poctraits  of  the  tine  of  the 
reign  of  Philip  III.  Some  too  far-seeing  critics 
assert  that  it  b  a  satirical  painting,  intended  to 
represent  the  Arrest  and  Death  of  Don  Carios, 
etc  Op  the  left,  one  of  the  ptr^mm  drmmmtit 
wears  a  medallion  round  his  neck,  with  the 
words  '  Ferdiaandos  II.  Rom.  imp.  S.  H.  V.  G.' 
It  is  a  curious  riddl^  and  a  good  painting. 

1646»  1647.  Portraits  by  Antonio 
del  Rincon  of  Ferdinaud  and  Isabella. 
They  are  the  originals  of  which  copies 
are  found  at  the  Cathedral  of  Granada, 
San  Juan  de  los  Reyes,  Toledo,  etc 

On  the  ground-floor  some  rooms  have 
been  exclusively  arranged  for  pic^res 
by  Rubens,  and  other  Flemish  masters. 
Observe  more  especially 

VanByck, 

1686.  Diana  and  Endymion,  and 
1772,  a  fine  portrait  of  the  Maiquesa  de 
Legan^s,  whose  original  fine  and  touch- 
ing letters  to  the  king,  craving  his 
x^p\  mercy  in  favour  of  her  husband 
in  exile,  we  have  had  occasion  to  ad- 
mire, in  a  large  collection  of  decrees, 
letters,  etc.,  to  and  from  Philip  IV., 
which  the  British  Museum  acquired 
(h>m  us  in  1862. 


1660.  Adam  and  Eve.  Copied  from 
Titian,  for  Charles  I.  of  England. 

168L  Nymphs  and  Satyn.  It 
seems  painted  on  velvet  No.  1086  is 
as  fine. 

1710.  The  Three  Graces.  The  models 
for  these  and  many  of  his  nymphs  and 
other  female  subjects  were  not  Flemish, 
as  is  often  thought,  but  three  Italian 
females,  a  mother  and  her  two  daugh- 
ters, named  Capaio,  and  who  lived  at 
Paris,  in  Rue  du  Yerbois.  Such,  at 
least,  is  Rubens'  own  statement,  in  a 
letter  published  in  the  'Archives  de 
I'Art  Franfais.' 

AnUmio  Mora, 

1702.  Full-length  portrait  of  Maria, 
wife  of  Maximiliui  II. 

1808. — Maximilian  II.  when  young. 
Observe,  indeed,  all  the  portraits  by 
Moro,  Nos.  1804,  1714,  1717,  1719, 
1794,  etc 

Tub  Oalekia  Rbskrvada,  or  Sala 
de  DeKansOf  contains  few  paintings  of 
sny  great  merit  Observe  the  two  fine 
portaits  of  Charles  IV.  and  his  Queen 
Maria  Louisa  (riding  astride  as  was  then 
the  fashion)  by  Goya — that  racy,  truly 
national,  original  painter  of  modem 
Spain.  There  are  several  portraits  of 
the  royal  family.  Some  good  copies, 
etc  Notice  also,  as  a  key  to  many 
Comu  de  EtpaSia^  a  series  of  portraits  of 
the  Bourbon  dynasty,  beginning  with 
Philip  y.  and  his  family,  painted  by 
Yanloc  The  names  of  the  personages 
painted,  and  artists,  are  given  on  each 
picture.  The  ceiling,  by  Don  Vicente 
Lopez,  has  been  put  up  lately. 

An  especial  room  has  been  recently 
fitted  up  for  a  fine  collection  of  jewels, 
cameos,  and  cinque-cento  plate,  which 
deserves  a  visit  Most  of  the  jewels 
belonged  to  Philip  Y.,  and  were  part  of 
his  French  inheritance.  Observe  all 
the  examples  of  goldsmiths*  woric  by 


MADRID — PIOTOTtEOALLERY. 


287 


B.  Gellioi,  the  Beceniles,  Arfes,  etc. 
A  fine  mosaic  table  has  been  placed  in 
the  middle  of  the  long  central  room 
upstairs,  a  present  from  Pope  Pins  V. 
to  Philip  II.  after  the  battle  of  Lepanta 
The  jewelled  and  enamelledi  works  by 
B.  Cellini  and  others  as«  now  placed  in 
the  Long  Qalleiy,  near  the  Sala  de 
Isabel  2d. — On  one  stand  are  the 
crystals ;  on  the  other*  the  jewelled 
pieces. 

THB  QALLEBT  OF  SCULPTURB 

Contains  few  and  no  remarkable 
specimens  of  either  national  or  an- 
tique sculpture.  Castor  and  PoUuz, 
a  bronze  head  of  an  Antonius^  a  Faun 
and  Kid«  a  Venus  Capitoline,  Death 
of  Alexander,  among  the  antiques  ; 
and,  by  Pomixsyo  Leoni  of  Arrez- 
zo,  the  statues  of  Charles  Y.,  Philip 
II.,  Isabella  wife  of  Charles  Y., 
are  Tery  remarkable.  The  Muses  and 
other  sculpture  from  the  collection  of 
Quoon  Cliristine  of  Sweden,  were  re- 
moTed  here  from  La  Qrai\ja.  We  may 
further  mention  a  marble  altar,  with 
bassi-relieyi,  representing  Bacchana- 
lians, the  apotheosis  of  Claude,  a  work 
of  time  of  Nero^  and  a  present  from 
Cardinal  Colonna  to  Philip  lY.,  besides 
several  Etruscan  rases^  busts,  etc 

MINOR  PICTURB-QALLERIBS 
(PUBUq). 

Moseo  NaoionaL — At  the  old  Con- 
rent  de  la  Trinidad,  the  pictures,  900  in 
number,  which  could  be  collected  in  the 
conrents  when  they  were  suppressed, 
have  been  carelessly  hung  in  different 
rooms,  passages,  etc.,  of  this  building, 
now  the  Ministerio  de  Tomento.  The 
principal  pictures  proceed  from  the 
Qallery  of  the  Infanta  Don  Sebastian, 
which  was  confiscated,  when  he  sided 
with  his  brother  Don  Carios^  but 
several  of  them  have  been  returned  to 
him  since  his  *  sumision.' 


Observe,  by  Oarr^lio,  a  portrait  of 
Charles  II.  of  Spain ;  by  Ribera^  a 
Concepdon ;  a  series  of  luctnres  repre- 
senting the  Life  of  San  Bruno,  by  uir- 
dwko,  formerly  in  the  Cbrthusiaii  con- 
vent del  Paular ;  another  series  of  Life 
and  Passion  of  our  Saviour,  by  Ooma 
(1550) ;  portrait  of  Bayeu,  by  Qoya,  a 
masterpiece.  There  is,  besides,  a  fine 
Silleria,  by  Sa/aa  de  Leon,  1561-71,  and 
a  magnificent  copy,  nay,  almost  a  re- 
plica, of  Raphael's  Transfiguration,  by 
QiuUo  Romana    No  catalogue. 

Aeademia  de  San  Fsmando  (in  Calle 
de  Aleak).— Founded  1744,  by  Philip  V. 
The  contents  are  generally  of  little 
importance,  and  consist  mostly  of  pic- 
tures by  RA.\  but  there  are  a  few 
exceptions. 

Bias  del  I^rado,—A  fine  'Fondadon' 
of  N.  S.  de  Loreto. 

JUbera, — St.  Jerome.  Yery  power- 
fully painted. 

S^urbaran, — Four  Monks.  Some- 
what dark ;  the  cast  of  the  draperies 
admirable. 

MwrOlo. -^Tht  celebrated  THkm, 
which  represents  St  Elizabeth,  Queen  <^ 
Hungary,  healing  the  lepers.  '  Nothing 
can  be  conceived  more  beautiful  and 
more  dignified  than  the  figure  of  St 
Elizabeth  herself,  and  these  qualities  in 
her  figure  are  brought  out  in  full  force 
by  the  contrast  with  the  diseased  beg- 
gars grouped  round  her,  aod  paint^ 
with  such  wonderful  truth  as  to  be  al- 
most disgusting.'    (Head.) 

It  was  painted  by  MttriUofor  the  Hoqiital  de 
la  Caridad  at  Seville,  and  for  it,  together  with  the 
San  Juan  de  Dioa,  the  tarn  of  i6,84cr.  was  paid. 
It  was  earned  to  P^ms  by  Marshal  Souh,  and 
subeequestty  given  back  lo  govemmeot,  who 
refused  to  return  k  to  the  hmpital  at  SeriOe, 
to  which  it  really  belongs.  It  was  very  ably 
copied  a  few  years  bock  by  Queen  Isabel 

Observe  also  very  especinlly  the  two 
medioe  punioe,  or  semi-circular  piant< 
ings,  by  Murillo^  representii^  two  epi« 


288 


MADRID — ^PIGTUBB-GALLERT. 


sodee  of  the  legendary  dreem  of  the 
Roiuan  Patrician,  who  founded  in  oon- 
■eqaenoe  the  church  of  Sta.  Maria 
Maggiore,  at  Rome.  They  are  in  the 
vaporotOf  or  third  manner,  and  both 
taperb.  By  Oarr^Ho  we  may  point  out 
a  Tery  fine  copy  of  the  Spasimo  of 
Raphael  Fonrfine^t«fftaii0ii«(monk8); 
an  ezcellent'Piedad  by  Morales;  a  Christ 
in  Purple,  by  A,  Cano ;  Hercules  and 
Omphsle,  by  Jtubent;  se^reral  charming 
Chyiu,  especially  Procession  on  Good 
Friday  ;  a  Bull-fight ;  the  Mad-house  ; 
an  Auto-de-f(&,  a  Miga,  etc,  and  some 
terra-cotta  statuettes  and  good  bronaesi 

PRIVATE  GALLERIES. 

Besides  the  collections  belonging  to 
seyeral  grandees,  and  formed  by  suoces- 
•iTe  generations  with  fiimily  portraits, 
presents  fVom  soTereigns  and  groat 
painters,  sereral  important  ones  hare 
of  late  yean  been  rapidly  got  up.  The 
principal  are :— 

OaUery  of  InJbfiiU  Don  8ebasHa>n,— 
Forms  part  of  the  mansion  inhabited  by 
the  Prince  in  Calle  de  Alcala.  Apply 
with  card  to  Seftor  Encargado  of  the 
gallery.  Open  daily,  from  12  to  8, 
ezoept  on  rainy  days.  Sereral  of  the 
contents  proceed  from  the  Museo  Na- 
donal,  where  they  were  placed  side  by 
side  with  those  bdonging  to  the  In&nte 
Don  Gabriel,  at  the  time  when  the  pro- 
perty of  the  princes  who  did  not  sup- 
port the  rights  of  the  present  queen  was 
confiscated.  Don  Sebastian's  pictures 
were  returned  to  him  a  few  years  since, 
and  shortly  after  his  '  sumidon'  to  the 
queen.  The  rest  were  those  that  he 
was  able  to  saye  and  take  with  him  to 
Naples,  his  usual  residence.  The  gallery 
numbers  500  pictures,  out  of  which  251 
are  works  of  modem  painters,  and  889 
of  the  earlier  masters.  As  the  Infante 
is  an  excellent  connoisseur,  and  himself 
a  good  painter,  the  arrangement  of  the 


pictures  has  been  well  carried  out,  the 
authenticity  most  scrupulously  estab- 
lished, and  the  'restauraciones'  aroided 
whenerer  it  was  possible.  The  gallery 
contains  many  rery  Taluable  paintings, 
mostly  belonging  to  the  Flemish  and 
Spanish  schools^  to  which  sereral  in- 
teresting Italian  productions,  purchased 
by  the  prince  in  Italy,  hare  been  added. 
Some  (the  Murillos  more  especially) 
hare  beisn  formeriy  repainted. 

N,B, — ^There  is  no  printed  catalogue, 
and  we  owe  the  following  list  and  mea- 
surements to  an  especial  favour.  The 
best  works  have  been  selected.  The 
pictures  are  not  numbered. 

Itauak  Sohools. 

Siatis  ripen  m  H.~JUight:  W.    widik, 

Cmrrtgw,  Christ  appearing  before  the  Mag- 
dalen.   On  wood.    H.,  Sic    W.,68c. 

SahMU0r  Rmo,  There  are  eight  pictures  by 
diis  master,  three  of  whidi  are  of  a  laige  siae 
and  landscapes.  We  shall  content  ourselves 
with  mentioning  *A  Battle.*  On  canvas.  H., 
43C  X  m.    W.,  86.9. 

BtUkd  (%)  A  PbrtiaiL  On  canvas.  H., 
67.1.    W.,  56. 

AmUmttUdtMetthm,  APoctraiL  Signed, 
and'dated  1474.    H.,  31.3.    W.,  a6.s> 

(The  high  ptke  that  the  productions  of  thb 
early  master  fetched  recendy*  in  Paris  at  die 
sale  of  the  Pourtalte  Collection  enhsnce  the 
value  of  this  one.) 

V€rmnt(P.)  St.  Andrew  and  Angeb.  On 
canvas :  signed.    H.,  •79c.    W.,  193c 

Pmimm  (TJ,  ikg  yvmngtr,  St  Sebastian. 
On  canvas :  signed.    H.,  i6ac.    W.,  97c 

(Cooqiare  dik  with  same  subject  in  Dresden 
Gallery,  No.  706,  by  the  same.) 

Banmm  (L.)  Moses  striking  the  Rock. 
On  canvas ;  signed.    R.,  103c.    W.,  1x4c. 

(Coaq»are  it  with  the  same  subject  by  the  saase 
in  the  Louvre^  No.  S99.) 

Gi0iU.  Entombment  of  Christ  On  wood. 
Fine.    H.,  a4C.    W.,  13c 

Titimm.  The  Adulteress.  On  canvas.  It 
b  either  a  rqtUca,  or  an  early  and  first-fate 
copy.    H.f  X73^    ^' •»  '59^ 

(There  is  boidas  a  portrait  by  die  same  ma^ 
ter,  which  is  signed.) 

Grwcc0,  The  Ascension  of  the  Viigia. 
Painted  at  Toledo,  where  it  was  purchased. 
This  fine  painting,  which  posseiiet  all  the  quail- 


MADRID — ^PRIVATE  nOTURE-OALUBRIZa 


289 


tie^  and  not  many  of  the  defects  of  the  master, 
is  coosidertd  one  of  his  masterpieces,  if  not  his 
principal  work    H.,  409c.    W.,  sjtc 

Gwrdtaw,  Hercules  Spinniflg.  On  copper; 
signed.    H.,  76.5.    W.,9i.8. 

J7«pe»((;.)(boni  at  Naples,  1634).  A  Guitar 
placed  upon  a  Table,  and  other  details.  On 
canrras;  signed,  and  dated  1676.  H.,  77.2. 
W.,  1.33. 

Imfarato  {Giroiiutu)  (Master  of  Vaccaro> 
Viigin  and  Child.    Wood.    H.,  903.    W.,  las. 

yasemrp  {Andm)  (bora  at  Naples,  SS98X 
Lot  and  Daughters.  On  canras;  signed. 
Finely  coloured.    H.,  137.9.    W.,  i8a3. 

Ptrugin^  {fucriUd  to  kim\  Ofcurndsion. 
Wood.    H.,94.    W.,75.5. 

Cmr^acU  (yaure)  (bora  at  Venice.  x45o>. 
The  Infiuit  Deity,  in  the  Virgin's  arms,  putt  a 
wedding-ring  on  St  Catherine's  finger.  This 
mystic  subject  has  been  often  treated. 

C^^^oim  rCJ  Assauk  of  a  ibrtified  dty,  and 
three  fine  battles ;  aU  signed.  Thefirstbper- 
haps  his  masterpiece.    H.,  96.    W.,  198.4. 

SMdme  (Bttrto.)  (bora  at  Modena,  1580). 
St.  Anthony,  half-figure.  On  canvas.  H., 
04.4.    W.,  77.5. 

TtmpttHw,  Brother-in^w  of  P.  Molyn, 
alias  Tempesta.  His  works,  the  style  of  which 
hovers  between  G.  Dughet  and  SaWator  Rosa, 
wemost  rare.  Observe  by  him  the  Rape  of 
Europa,  and  a  pendant,  representing  a  famd- 
•cape  with  Fsn  and  other  figures.  They  are 
both  of  same  sia^,  and  signed.  H..  iigc.  W., 
177c 


SpAKIBH  SOHOOL6. 

ROtra  (SpoincUtU),  Saint  Onofre.  On 
canvas ;  signed.    H.,  196.8c.    W.,  ip3c 

There  are  three  others,  also  signed. 

ArtUamfy.)  Two  Flower-pieces.  Qmvas. 
Most  deficately  painted ;  signed. 

Hiere  is  a  third,  also  signed,  but  inferior.  H., 
47c    W.,  47c 

PermU  (AnUmU)  (bora  at  VaUadofid,  X599X 
A  Dead  Christ.  On  the  foreground  stand  St 
John  and  the  Holy  Women  ('Las Marias') ;  on 
the  second,  Nicomedes,  etc  It  is  one  of  the 
best  pictures  here.    H.,  199c    W.,  a45c 

AnMimn,  A  Descent,  and  Entrance  to 
Jerasalem.     On  copper;   signed.     H.,   68c. 

T.  CmrrHte,  A  fine  Martyrdom  of  St  Bar- 
tholomew. The  Miracle  of  Manna,  formeriy 
ascribed  to  him,  and  by  M.  Viardot  to  M. 
Cereso,  and  by  Mr.  Ford  to  Herrera  el  Vlejo,  is 
by  Diego  Polo  the  younger.  H.,  180c.  W., 
«S3C 

MtUndtn(L.)  His  own  Portrait  Tme.  On 
H.,Boac.    W.,86e. 


There  are  besides  firar  'Bodegooea,'  signed 
by  this  same  master. 

Goy«u  Two  Mi^os  and  two  Mi^as  looldi« 
out  of  a  Balcony.    H.,  sm.    W.^  197  c 

A  charming  composition. 

ygloMqm*.  Portrait  of  the  Infiuita  DoHa 
Maigarita.  On  canvas,  well  preserved.  The 
princess  is  represented  somewhat  older  than  in 
a  simthur  portrait  by  Vefauques  at  the  Louvre, 
No.  555.    H.,  77c    W.,  63c. 

Almto  Cane.  St  Bernard  knecfii^  before 
the  Viigin.    Very  fine.    H.,  963c    W.,  155c. 

There  is  also  by  this  master  an  excellent  por* 
trait  of  the  celebrated  Archbishop  of  Toledo^ 
Don  Bern,  de  SandovaL 

Cetan  (SmMcka).  A'Bodegon.'  On  wood; 
signed.    H,,  74c    W.,  90c. 

MurOh,  St  Francis  beseeches  God  tograni 
him  the  Jubilee  of  the  Porduncufat  H.,  493c. 
W.,  300c. 

This  ktter  luine  is  deriTad  from  a 
church  situated  ID  the  Apennines,  which 
was  'a  portion'  of  the  property  of  the 
Benedictine  Order.  To  this  oonrent 
St  Frands  withdrew  in  120^,  and 
fovnded  his  Order.  A  grand  jnhOee 
was  institated  in  his  honour,  and  great 
and  especial  immunities  granted  to  that 
spot  This  picture  formerlj  belonged 
to  the  Capuchin  Gonrent,  for  which  it 
waspainted.  It  was  placed  in  the  centre 
of  the  retablo  orer  the  high  altar.  On 
the  right  of  it  hung  Hurillo's  picture 
of  Sta.  Justa  7  Rufina,  and  on  the  left 
Saints  Leandro  and  BuenaTentura,  both 
now  in  the  Seville  Picture^^kllery. 

About  the  time  when  the  French  entered  Se- 
ville, a  fnend  of  the  monhs,  one  LuisOrdones. 
had  all  the  MuriUos  they  posaesstd  removed  to 
Gibraltar.  AAer  the  war  was  over,  the  pictuies 
were  broqght  bade  again  and  unmiml  dieir 
fonnerpfaMes.  The  repairs  which  the  convent 
had  now  to  undergo  drained  the  already  much 
diminished  exchequer  of  the  monks,' who,  to  pay 
oflT  their  debts,  sold  ^Stut  ^ortUmadm  to  a  SeAor 
B^arano,  father,  we  beBeve,  of  the  president  of 
the  Seville  Academy.  It  then  passed  through 
•everal  hands,  and  finaHy  became  the  property 
ofthelnfkntelbrasumof  ;f9o&  It  has  been 
frequently  retouched,  espedaUy  the  fcet  and 
head. 

St  Fenfinand  sitting  on  a  throne  and  sur- 
rounded by  aageb.  Not  wotthy  of  the  master, 
who  painted  it  beyond  doubt  The  hoMls  of  the 
angels  make  up  lor  the  ictt    It  hat  been  ro- 


290 


MADRID — ^PRIVATB  PIOTURB-QALLERIE& 


pftinted.  It  b  the  model  from  which  the  effigy 
was  carved  by  Sefior  Piquer,  which  is  sees  an 
the  Anneria  (No.  1785),  and  is  bone  in  proces- 
sion to  the  Pahce  Chapel  on  the  anntveraaryof 
the  capciiie  of  Seville  (May  •9).  On  canvas. 
H.,  X7XC  W.,  89& 
Virgin  del  Cftnnea.    Gin  canvas.    H.,  btsc. 

Tr.f  1930. 

St-FrandsofpMile.  On  canvas.  H.,  168c. 
W.,  113c 

CsstiiU{Amiom$0).  Adoration  of  Shepherds. 
On  canvas ;  fine.    R.,  »yoe.    W.,  169c. 

FLBM18H,  Dutch,  and  Fbknoh 
SonooLB. 

Rgmirmfult.  Circumcision  of  Our  Lord. 
On  canvas ;  very  fine.    H.,  Sic.    W.,  68c. 

Mmtkyt(P.)  A  Bacchanal,  On  canvas.  H., 
95SC    W..  338.5c 

'  Rtiy$dail,  A  Sen-sufci)ect ;  signed.  There 
is  besides  a  good  bndscape,  which  b  also 
signed.    H.,  43c    W.,  83.6c. 

SUtmnyck(N.)  Interior  of  a  Hall  in  White- 
hall   On  canvas.    H.,  89c.    W.,  116.6c. 

MmHim  Vm.  Virgin  and  the  In£uit  Deity. 
H.,  XX7C    W.,  9ec 

Jftdttu,  A  Bird-cage.  On  wood ;  signed. 
H..  44.3c    W.,  86.9c 

Full-length  Portrait  of  the  Archduke  Albert 
H.,  sm.    W.,  issc 

Km  DycA,  Portrait  of  the  Duchets  of  Oi^ 
leans.  Full  length.  A  magnificent  painting, 
and  wen  preserved.    H.,  0090    W.,  193c 

yanDtrDMiT,)  View  of  Haarlem.  On 
wood ;  signed.    H.,  59c    W.,  87c 

Cimudt  GtUt.  A  SunseL  Very  fine  R, 
loec    W.,  isec 

QmtMtm  M€iMy$. .  The  Savioor.     H.,  66c 

W..49C 

PmasiM  (If.)  Allegory  of  Medicine;  On 
canvas.    H.,  7a.ac.    W.,  75.3c 

Besidet,  we  may  notice--*  8t  Peter, 
by  Madi ;  a  charming  portrait  of  a  girl 
with  a  dore,  by  Angelioa  Kaoffman 
(signed) ;  a  fine  San  Jnan  de  Mota,  by 
Caridnooi ;  Dnmkardi  and  Gambler^ 
two  racy  genuine  paintings,  by  Bloot 
(signed) ;  a  Masquerade,  by  Yerberek  ; 
the  Samaritan,  by  Grebber ;  an  Adora- 
tion of  Shepherds^  ascribed  to  Hem- 
meling  of  Bruges ;  an  Alchymist,  by 
Teniers ;  and  productions  of  masters 
but  litUe  known,  such  as  Qaigiato, 
Sdpio  Pulsone,  L.  Bonone,  Oocorante, 
Santa  Frede^  Ligoszi,  etc 


Ifarti$i  Sek&n,  the  Siege  of  Bethulia  by 
Holophemes.  Portrait  of  the  Duke  oi 
Lerma  by  FtmUqa  de  la  Onuu  A  good 
portrait  of  Charles  Y.  By  PUHmo  dd 
Vaga,  Qod  and  His  Angels.  Fiye 
Landscapes  by  Salvaior  Ron;  fire 
others  by  Poimki,  An  excellent  Por- 
trait by  yttlaajuot  and  another  by  Jtfic- 
riUo. 

OaUery  cf  Sdkor  Conisram.— The 
sketch  of  the  Annunciation  of  VtroneH 
by  that  master,  sent  by  him  to  Philip 
II.  Sketches  of  heads  for  the  'Snsana' 
at  the  Royal  Museo^  by  same. .  A  Tery 
fine  Porbus  Portrait  of  Maria  de  Medici 
By  Mola  (1012.«8),  the  Yision  of  St 
Bruno,  a  replica  at  tiie  Louyre,  Na  272. 
Abraham  and  the  Three  Angel%  by 
Tiepolo,  etc  Besides  these,  %  rerj  com- 
plete and  yaluable  collection  of  prints, 
sketches,  historical  portraits,  etc 

OaUery  of  Duke  de  Ueedtk^Bj  Mu- 
rUla,  a  superb  Infant  Deity  asleep  on 
the  Cross,  and  a  Sta.  Boaalia  by  same 
A  glorious  portrait  of  Blind  Altoriti,  by 
Andrea  del  Sarto;  two  curious  paint- 
ings found  at  Pompeii,  etc 

Oallery  of  Duke  Alba^^A  Holy 
Family,  by  Titian ;  a  Portrait,  by  same 
A  Holy  Family,  by  P.  Perugino;  a 
Portrait  of  the  great  Duke  of  Alba ; 
and  a  Portrait,  by  JfurUlo^  of  his  son. 

OoUery  of  MarquSe  de  Javalquinlo, 
— Portrait  of  Alaneo  Cano,  by  himselt 
Portrait  of  Moreto,  by  Murillo,  A 
Female  Portrait,  by  A,  del  Sarta.  A 
Yiigin,  by  Uewmeling  (f). 

OaUery  of  Duke  de  Paatrana, — Series 
of  Rubens,  painted  for  tapestry,  and 
representing  Meleager*s  Chase,  and  a 
sketch  by  same  of  the  Garden  of  Loye, 
in  Museo  ReaL 

OaUery  of  MarquSe  de  ViUafrmmea, 
—  A  series  of  pictures  representing 
scenes  from  the  history  of  the  Moncada 
Family,  by  Teniere ;  and  a  Yan  Dyck. 

OaUery  of  Duke  de  «SdMk— Sernal 


MAPytm — LIBRABISS. 


291 


magniflcent  Snjden^  with  heads  by 
Rnbeni^  of  monnoat  tiaa  and  gnat 
merit,  etc 

lAhnrim,—Nlaehnta,  Calle  de  k 
Biblioteoa  No.  4 ;  admiaaioii  free.  Open 
daUy,  except  holidays,  in  winter  from 
10  A.1L  to  4  P.M.,  and  in  sonuner  from 
9  A.M  to  8  P.M.  It  was  established, 
first,  in  another  part  of  Madrid,  by 
order  of  Philip  III.,  1712,  and  removed 
here  in  1826 ;  contains  abont  250,000 
Yolumes.  It  ii  yery  rich  in  worki  of 
ancient  Spanish  literature,  but  the  cata- 
logue is  not  well  classified,  and  a  new 
one,  lately  began,  is  not  likely  to  be 
finished  for  a  long  time.  The  officials 
are  civil,  bat  know  little  abont  the  eon- 
tents,  and  a  Mr.  Paniisi  would  be  in- 
valuable here.  There  ii  a  fine  collection 
of  coins  and  medals,  numbering  upwards 
of  150,000,  which  was  begun  with  the 
celebrated  numismatic  ooUection  of  the 
Abb4  Rothlen,  of  Orleans.  They  were 
very  well  classified  and  aremost  interest- 
ing as  illustrating  the  early  history  of 
Roman,  Gothic,  and  Moorish  Spain. 
The  Moorish  coins  have  been  most  ably 
cUasified  by  Se&or  Qayaogoa,  a  most 
able  and  deej^y-read  Arabio  scholar. 
There  it  also  a  small  collection  of  anti- 
quities. To  see  these^  'as  well  as  to 
study  the  manuscripts  and  prohibited 
works,  etc,  apply  to  Sefior  Bibliote- 
cario  Mayor. 

BtbHoUea  ds  Sam  Kiulro.— Calle  de 
Toledo  Na  46,  adjoining  church  of 
mmh  name,  open  daily  holidays  ex- 
cepted) from  9  A.M.  to  8  p.m.,  80,000 
volumes.  It  was  chiefly  formed  by  the 
Jesuits. 

Biblioteoa  of  (ho  CTntMrn^.— Calle 
Anchs  San  Bernardo  Nc  51 ;  free  ad- 
mission. Open  11  A.M.  till  2  P.M.,  con- 
tains 24,000  volnmesi 

Bihlioieca  0/ tko  Aeadomy  qf  History, 
—Calle  del  Leon  Na  21.  Open  daUy. 
For  permission  to  take  notes,  etc,  ap- 
ply to*  a  member.     Mort  interesting^ 


and  containing  mannscripti^  early  edi* 
tions,  etc,  of  great  value 

Privalo  Librarie$,^ThMi  of  the  Buke 
de  Osuna  at  hl»  palace  in  Calle  de  Don 
Pedro.  Apply  to  his  apoderado-generaL 
Very  important,  upwards  of  80,000 
volumes,  and  numberless  interesting 
inanuscripts  of  Columbus^  etc 

BUflioteea  qf  the  Duke  de  Medina 
Celu^kt  his  palace  Carrera  de  San 
Garinc  Apply  to  his  adminiBtrador. 
Very  interesting ;  contains  fit>m  15,000 
to  20,000  volumes. 

BiiUotooa  of  Duke  of  Veragwu,-' 
Calle  de  FuencarraL  Apply  personally 
to  the  Duke  Contains  many  important 
manuscripts  on  Columbus^  who  was  the 
Duke*s  ancestor. 

BibliotoeaqfDukede  ViOahormoea.^ 
25,000  volumes,  Carrera  San  Geronlma 

Bmiotooa  of  Marqnie  de  Salamamea, 
— Paseo  de  las  Delicias.  It  is  being 
formed  with  great  care,  and  saving  no 
expense  in  purchases  all  over  Spain 
and  other  countrioc  The  bpoks,  espe- 
cially those  on  chivalry  and  others  very 
curious,  are  of  great  value  in  an  artisti- 
cal  and  bibliographical  point  of  view. 

BtbUoteea  <f  Sr.  Oa/ffomgoe. — As  re- 
markable for  the  variety  of  books  and 
MSS.  collected  as  for  their  great  im- 
portance Here  it  one  of  the  most  com- 
plete Arabic  collections  in  Europe  The 
owner,  a  gentleman  of  great  attain- 
ments, whose  name  is  familiar  to  all 
Englidi  bibliophilea,  places  hit  library 
at  the  disposal  of  students  with  most 
courteous  hospitality. 

Biblioteoa  qf  Oenerml  Sim  Boman.^ 
One  of  the  finest  and  most  complete 
military  libraries  in  Europe 

Biblieteea  of  Sr.  D,  VaUiUin  Carde- 
rera, — A  numerous  and  veiy  valuable 
collection  of  early  works  of  Spanish 
literature  and  art  This  gentleman  ia 
considered  the  ablest  connoisseur  ex- 
tant of  Spanish  picturee 

Biblioteoa  qf  Sr,   D   Silanm  de 


293 


MADRII>— OHUROHSiS. 


Salava. — ^The  owner  is  a  remarkable 
sacred  music  composer,  and  his  collec- 
tion is  ezdusiyely  composed  of  works 
on  that  art 

BiblioUea  of  Spanish  ^eiuimiiy.— Not 
accessible.  Of  Academy  of  Koble  Arts, 
Calls AlcaliNo.  19.  Pablic,ftx>m  10a.m. 
to2p.ic.  Of  Special  School  for  the  Staff 
of  the  Army,  Calle  Alcali  No.  59 ;  pub- 
lic to  military  visitors  or  by  application 
to  Director  del  Cuerpa  Library  of 
Natural  History,  Calle  Aloald  No.  19. 
Of  Botanical  Garden,  at  this  Garden, 
Prado.  Of  Atenoo^  Calle  Montera  No. 
82,  11,000  vols.,  free  to  members  of 
that  dub.  Of  Marqu^  de  Morante, 
MM.  Benafides,  the  Arabic  one  of  D. 
Serafin,  Calderon,  etc. 

Ohurches. — ^The  metropolis  of  the 
kingdom  has  no  cathedral,  whilst  Za- 
ragoza,  Cadis,  and  other  provincial 
towns,  have  two.  In  1570  Philip  II. 
was  asked  to  build  one,  and  12,000 
ducats  were  assigned  out  of  the  archi- 
episcopal  rent,  but  the  Escorial,  hia 
cathedral  of  cathedrals,  could  tolerate 
no  rival,  and  the  project  was  aban- 
doned. In  1028,  Philip  IV. 's  pious 
queen  renewed  the  scheme,  and  ob- 
tained from  the  king  a  sum  of  70,000 
ducats,  to  which  the  town  added  50,000 
more.  The  first  stone  was  even  laid 
down  behind  the  church  of  Bta.  Maria ; 
but  from  several  circumstances^  the 
building  was  once  more  abandoned. 
The  king  consort  is  said  to  entertain 
a  similar  project,  and  the  edifice  would 
be  situated  in  the  Retiro,  facing  the 
Prado.  The  r*harch«i  are  numerous, 
but  of  no  merit,  dating  from  a  period 
of  bad  taste.  The  principal  and  usual 
features  are  :  a  large  transept,  one  nave, 
a  lofty  lantern,  heavy  broad  pillars, 
semi -attached  to  the  white -washed 
walls,  Isrge  square  windows,  without 
painted  glass,  tawdry  altars,  with  cum- 
brooa  altars  and  indifferent  pictures 


and  images;  chnrrigneresqne  fr^adei 
and  ornamentation,  filthy  pavements, 
doors,  etc     The  principal  are— 

Scm  Francisco  el  Orande, — Situated 
in  an  ou^of-the-way  part  of  the  dty. 
A  former  convent,  founded  by  that  pa- 
triarch, when  he  came  to  Madrid  in  the 
18th  century,  on  his  way  to  Santiago. 
Here  was  buried  Clav^o,  Oamarero  (a 
chamberlain  then,  now  applied  to  wait- 
ers in  hotels  I)  to  Henrique  d  Do- 
liente  and  his  ambassador  to  Tamerlan. 
Here  was  also  buried  the  fair  and 
fraH  queen  of  Henry  IV.,  Dolka 
Juana  of  Portugal,  and  that  mysterious 
personage  of  the  15th  century,  Enrique 
de  Villena — a  magician,  a  bngo,  a  mago 
(as  said  those  who  did  not  understsnd 
his  learning),  whose  books  on  this 
supposed  magic,  '  6  de  irim  no  cumpli- 
deras  de  leer,*  were  burned,  by  onier 
of  Henry  IV.,  by  the  king's  tutor, 
'Barrieutos,*  in  the  doisters  of  Sto. 
Domingo  d  Real,  at  Madrid.*  Many 
of  the  learned  of  that  time  lamented 
their  loss,  and  one  of  them,  'el  Bachiller 
Fr.  Gomes, '  in  a  letter  to  Juan  de  Mena, 
says  indignantly,  'Ca  son  muchos  lot 
que  en  este  tiempo  se  fan  dotos  fadendo 
i  otros  insipientes  e  magos,  e  peor  es 
que  fazan  beatos  fadendo  4  otros  nigro- 
manes.* 

The  building  was  pulled  down  in 
1760,  and  the  present  one  erected  on 


*  Some,  however,  escaped  the  &cgo^  Amoag 
the  most  remarkaUe  are:  Tramlarioiw  litom 
Dante  and  VirgO :  Arte  CUaria,  or  Alt  of  Canr- 
inc,  printed  1766.  The  ^oeid  b  now  in  the 
Bib.  Colombina,  Senile:  his  *  Libro  de  loe 
Trabajos  de  Hercules'  is  in  the  possession  of 
S.  Gajrangoa.  Princes  and  kings  in  all  coun- 
tries have  sought  always  to  read  in  the  &co 
of  the  heavens  the  truth  which  they  found 
not  around  them,  and  besides  this  prince, 
Alfonso  el  Imperator  was  much  given  to  sslio> 
logy.  His  '  Del  Tesoro,'  wherein  the  philoso- 
pher's  stone  b  mentioned  and  found,  b  ia  the 
Bib.  NacionaL  The  '  Libro  completo  ea  los 
Judulos  de  las  EstreOas,'  in  the  Bib. 


MADRID — CHUBCHE& 


293 


the  {dans  of  a  Fimodteui  monk.  Fray 
Franoisoo  Oabesaa,  who  hoilt  the  cupola ; 
P16andSabatmifiiii8heditiiil784.  It 
isa  latge^  imposiiig  edifice^  in  the  ahape 
of  a  vast  rotonda,  aanounded  by  seren 
chapela,  117  ft  diameter,  168  ft.  high 
to  cupola,  and  125  ft.  from  the  entimnce 
tohi^chapeL  The  pietorea  an  by  the 
Academical  Velasqaei  (not,  of  coniae, 
ths  great  man),  Maella,  Bayeo,  and 
Goya.  Ita  characteriatica  are  heavineea 
and  want  of  taate.  It  haa  been  recently 
improved,  and  ia  oonaidered  the  fineat 
in  Madrid. 

Sam  Oermdmo, — Cloae  to  the  Retiro. 
Onoeagem  of  Gothic  at  ita  beat  period, 
built  by  Enrique  lY.  The  atatuea  of 
lungs,  atalla  carved  in  Flanders,  pic- 
tures, etc.,  all  disappeared  during  the 
truly  '  infausta'  occupation  of  Madrid 
by  the  French.  The  Jura  of  the 
I^ces  of  Asturias  takea  place  here. 

Alocka, — Gontains  one  of  the  meet 
miraculous  and  yenerated  iroagea  of 
the  Church  in  Spain,  which  is  said  by 
aome,  who  are  too  learned,  to  have  been 
brought  firom  AnUoth^  whence  the 
name.  It  is  one  of  the  many  genuine 
images  said  to  hare  been  carred  by  St.' 
Luke— no  Phidias  in  that  case.  The 
queen  and  royal  family  visit  it  on 
Saturdays  at  6  p.m.  ;  the  image's 
wardrobe— is.  the  queen's ~is  magni- 
fioent;  and  the  jewels  would  build 
sereral  three-deckers,  and  many  a 
schooL  Founded  1628,  by  J.  Hurtado 
de  Mendosa,  Charles  V.'s  confessor, 
who,  a  mm  ooU  in  a  land  of  prtUm- 
ieniei,  entreated  that  monarch  noi  to 
raise  him  to  the  Arehiepiscopal  See  of 
Toledo.  It  was  plundered  and  de- 
stroyed by  the  levelling  French,  and 
rebuilt  by  Ferdinand  YII.  It  ia  a 
most  inherent  building;  and  forma 
part  of  the  /nseiKtior— an  imitation  of 
the  French  establishment ;  from  its 
walls  hang  aeveral  dnsty  banners  taken 
from  the  enemy.    The  doisters  were 


built  by  Philip  II.  The  pictures  sre 
by  third-rate  painters.  The  founder 
is  buried  here,  and  ao  is  Bartolomi  de 
las  Oasas,  '  el  abogado  de  lea  Indioa,' 
whom  he  endeavoured  to  save  from  the 
avidity  and  cruel  treatment  of  the 
Spaniarda,  who  are  not  a  odonising 
people,  being  neither  merchants  nor 
too  crowded  on  their  own  soiL 

Stm  Itidro.—ln  Calle  de  Toledo. 
Founded  by  the  Jesuits  in  1567 ;  it 
was  pulled  down  and  rebuilt  in  1651, 
under  the  patronage  of  the  Empreas 
Maria  of  Austria,  after  dealgns  by  the 
Jesuit  Francisco  Bautista.  The  high 
chapel  was  altered  by  V.  Rodrigues. 
Here  are  the  bodies  of  San  Isidro  (not 
Isidoro),  the  pious  MadrQenian  plough- 
boy,  in  the  service  of  the  Condes  de 
Oftate,  and  of  his  not  less  pious  better- 
half;  Santa  Maria  de  la  Cabesa.  The 
statue  of  the  saint  is  by  Mena,  and  the 
large  painting  of  the  Holy  Trinity  by 
Mengs.  Several  poUHcal  saints  are 
buried  here  alao,  and  among  them  the 
artillerymen  Daois  and  Velarde,  the 
heroea  'del  Dos  de  Mayo,'  Donoao 
Cort^  etc  The  fafade  is  very  poor  : 
four  colossal  columns  and  two  pilasters 
rise  to  the  very  cornice  ;  two  Isrge  un- 
finished towers  flank  the  extremities. 
The  cupola  ia  effective,  and  the  transept 
broad  and  spadoua.  The  chapela  are 
sombre,  and  contain  noobjecta  of  interest 

Sto.  DomtN^— Founded  1219,  by 
Domingo  de  Guzman,  for  a  nunnery, 
especially  patronised  by  kings.  The 
choir  was  rebuilt  for  Philip  IL  by 
Herrera,  in  remembrance  <^  hii  son 
Don  Carlos,  whose  body  lay  here  from 
1567  to  1578.  There  are  aeveral 
prinoea  and  infantas  buried  here,  and 
among  them  Berenguda,  daughter  of 
Alfonso  the  Learned.  In  tibe  high 
chapd,  erected  by  the  Prioreas  Ccm- 
stanza,  are  the  fine  marble  tomba  of 
her  grandfather,  the  Infante  D.  Juan, 
and  that  of  the  celebrated  D.  Pedro  d 


294 


MADRID— CHURCHES. 


Craal,  whole  body  lay  forgotten  in  tlie 
hamlet  of  La  Poebla  de  Alcocer,  and 
wai  remored  hither  in  1444.  His 
brother,  D.  Enriqne^  who  had  murdered 
him  at  Montiel,  erected  a  paltry  church 
for  hia  interment  'near  that  pUice,  and 
commemorated  the  morder  in  hit  will, 
fligned  at  Boigot,  May  1874,  b^giiming 
'In  thanksgiving  to  Qod,  through 
whose  favour  and  mercies,'  etc.  A 
former  statue  of  the  king  was  re- 
mored during  the  French  war  to  the 
cellars.  The  ashes  of  the  Justidero, 
as  he  was  some  times  called,  sre  buried 
in  the  Chapter-room.  On  the  whole  it 
is  a  most  indifferent  edifice. 

SaaiUa  MaritL—Tht  earliest  church 
in  Madrid.  It  was  used  by  the  Moors 
as  a  mosque,  and  its  name  'de  la 
Almudayna'  (a  granary),  is  certainly 
Arab^  and  is  applied  to  the  Virgin,  a 
miraculous  imsge  said  to  have  been 
found  near  a  Moorish  granary  after  the 
capture  of  the  town  by  the  Christians. 
The  church  was  repaired  by  Y.  Rod- 
riguez ;  meet  indifferent  The'  chapel 
of  Sta.  Ana  is  Gothic,  and  wss  built  on 
the  site  of  former  cloisters  by  Bozme- 
diano^  Charles  V.'s  secretary.  The 
/etta  of  this  saint  used  formerly  to  be 
$QUnm{»ed  with  curious  dances,  singing 
etc.,  about  which  see  Cervantes  in  the 
beginning  of  his  'Qitanilla.' 

San  AndrU—kn  early  church  to 
which  the  Catholic  kings,  who  lived 
on  the  site  now  occupied  by  the  man- 
sion of  the  Duke  of  Osuna,  contributed. 
Philip  y.  began  the  chapel  of  San 
Isidro,  tutelar  of  Madrid,  in  1M8 ;  it 
cost  1,000,000  ducats.  The  baroooo^ 
heavy  style,  is  well  worthy  of  its  archi- 
tect, VilUreaL  The  pictures  are  hj 
liiod  and  Carre&o.  Behind  this  church 
is  the  Capilla  del  Obispo,  Gothic; 
finished  by  Bishop  Gutierre,  butfounded 
and  begun  in  Charles  Y.'s  time  by 
Vargss,  who  had  been  a  friend  and 
oounoUlor  of  the  Catholic  kings,  whose 


reliance  on  his  penetration  was  so  great 
that  it  gave  rise  to  the  proverb^  '  averi- 
guelo  Vargas.' 

San  (»fi/ff.— Rebuilt  about  1642; 
very  indifferent,  except  for  a  crypt, 
'la  boveda,'  where  on  certain  days  of 
the  year,  Lent  and  others,  such  'cjer- 
cidos  eipiritudU»*  as  flagellation  or 
pious  whipping  take  place ;  but  the 
custom  is  slackening,  and  the  rods  are 
no  longer  in  great  request  Observe 
here  a  paso  of  a  Santo  Cristo^  by  Ver- 
gaz,  and  Christ  seated  and  stripped,  by. 
Alfonso  Oana 

Loi  iSloZeifu.— Bunt  1749  by  Ferdi- 
nand VI.  and  his  queen,  Dofia  Barbara, 
for  the  education  of  noblemen's  dau^- 
ters.  It  cost  £88,000 ;  Carlier  was  the 
architect  The  facade  towards  the 
garden  is  the  best  and  most  effective. 
It  is  on  the  whole  a  large  and  regular 
edifice^  well  proportioned,  but  with  the 
tinsel  and  cumbrous  ornamentation  so 
much  in  vogue  at  the  time.  Ferdinand 
VI. 's  sepulchre,  by  Sabatini  and  Guti- 
erres,  is  fine.  A  wit  has  said  of  the 
whole  :  '  Barbara  Rejrna,  barbara  obrs, 
barbaro  gusta'  In  tiie  16th  and  I7th 
centuries  most  countries  had  an  espe- 
cial church  and  hospital  built  for  the 
exclusive  use  of  their  counrtymen,  tra- 
velling or  reddenta,  and  supported  by 
them.  Thus  the  English  had  'San 
Jorge,'  built  in  1611,  on  the  dte  of  the 
present  San  Ignacio,  in  Calle  dd  Prin- 
dpe ;  the  French,  in  1616,  built  San 
Luis,  #here  to  this  dsy  the  French  at 
Madrid  resort  to  hear  sermons,  etc.,  in 
their  native  tongue.  The  Italians 
founded  that  of  *d  Nundo,'  or  Los 
Italianos,  in  Carrera  San  Oeronlmo. 
The  Portngtieee  built  'San  Antonio,' 
which  has  some  good  frescoes  by  Gior- 
dano and  Rioci  The  Flemish,  in  1606, 
erected  that  of 'San  Andr^' etc  The 
religious  festivities  sre  devoid  of  the 
usual  pomp  displayed  elsewhere;  and 
the  prooesdon  of  Corpus,  Holy  Friday, 


BIADRID'-^FOBLIO  BUUDINGa 


295 


etc,  must  not  be  seen  here,  bat  in  To- 
ledo^ Seville,  Valencia,  etc 

PnbUo  Bidldinge.— timni  HaU 
(C<ua$  CkmtUUnidUa)  is  an  oUong  edi- 
fice of  the  middle  of  17th  century,  wiUi 
square  towers  At  the  corners,  composed 
of  two  storeys;  the  interior  is  spadoos, 
the  staircase  fine.  The  best  fafade  is 
that  on  Oalle  de  la  Almndayna,  modem* 
ised  by  YillaneaTa.  The  Cnstodia,  a 
fine  work  of  Alyares,  1588,  was  stolen 
some  years  ago.  On  the  site  of  the 
Town  Hall  stood  formerly  the  Ccnaejo 
(20  ifduirid;  built  under  Juan  II.  In  this 
plasatook  place  the  Autos  Saeramen- 
talesL  The  Ayuntamiento  or  corpora- 
tion had  the  privilege  (granted  1817), 
of  managing  e?erything  connected  with 
these  pvformances^  to  form  the  com- 
panies of  actors,  etc.* 

i%ifM(i0riii.~Begun  in  1590  for  the 
guild  of  bakers,  as  the  Camiceria  was 
on -the  opposite  side  for  that  of  but- 
chers. Most  of  it  was  destroyed  in 
the  great  fire  of  1872,  and  the  present 
edifice  raised  in  imitation  of  the  former, 
to  which,  by  way  of  impcorement, 
ohurrigueresque  appendages  were  added. 

^fMJMfteia.— This  trilmnal,  in  Oalle 
de  Atooha,  occupies  the  site  of  an  edi- 
fice formerly  built  for  a  ca/reU  de  corie 

*  lathebcigiiuniigof  iTth  century  the  cdebn- 
tMS  of  theee  autos  during  the  fesdnties  of  Corpus 
Cbritd  fan  dius : — ^The  first  And  second  nutos 
were  fnt  perlbrawd  oo  Corpus  day  at  4  r.u., 
m  the  paboe,  then  again  at  the  Conseja  de 
Caatilhi,  fai  the  sane  plasuela ;  and  at  night  in 
the  presence  of  the  members  of  the  Councfl  of 
Aragon.  Next  mcmung  the  autos  were  per^ 
forsMd  before  the  Inquisition,  the  Corporatt<m, 
and  Minieterioe.  The  public  were  not  ad- 
nutted  until  the  8di  representation.  Thesesemi- 
reKgiottS  spectndesfeU  off  after  1664.  CaMeroa, 
the  oelebinted  Spanish  author,  wrote  seyeuty 
two  autos,  with  Smu,  by  order  of  the  ayunta- 
miettto^  to  whoee  ardiives  he  bequeathed 
them ;  moat  of  them  were  stolen,  but  o^Nes 
were  left  in  their  stead,  the  copjrright  of  which 
the  bookseller,  Pedro  Pando  y  Nier,  purchased 
b  1716  for  t6^sw* 


by  the  Marquis  de  Oresoend  for  Philip 
lY.,  and  orer  the  door  is  still  the  in* 
scription  >—*  This  Osral  de  Oorte  was 
built  for  the  safety  and  comfort  of 
prisoners. 

Ocua  de  Urn  Oont^fci, — Opposite  the 
church  of  Santa  Maria,  begun  in  the 
reign  of  Philip  IIL  by  the  Duke  de 
Uoeda.  A  fine  large  soUd  buUding^ 
well  proportioned.  The  lotteiy  is 
drawn  here. 

Comgreao  (ITotue  q/  Chmmom). — Be- 
gun in  1842  by  Seftor  Odomer,  and 
finished  in  1850  on  the  model  (f)  of 
the  French  Corps  L^latit  In  the 
centre  of  the  pr^dpal  facade  is  a  tri- 
angular front,  on  the  tympanum  of 
which  is  represented  Spain  receiTing 
Law,  accompanied  by  Power  and  Jus- 
tice ;  the  execution  of  this  satire  is 
Tery  dumsy,  and  no  less  so  are  the  fe* 
rodous  lions  on  the  sides  of  the  steps^ 
one  of  which  was  singed  by  a  cannon- 
ball  in  1854.  The  interior  is  hand- 
somdy  furnished  and  decorated  with 
pictures  by  Seftores  Madraso,  BiTera, 
Espdter,  etc.  Obserre  the  fine  one  of 
the  'Comuneros,'  by  Gisbert,  a  rising 
painter.  The  public  are  adimitted  to 
the  Tribuma  jmbUea;  but  trardlers 
had  better  apply  to  a  member  for 
ticket  to  Tribunare$ervada.  Members 
speak  from  their  places.  The  ministe- 
rial bench  is  called  si  bameo  tuuL  The 
speakers  most  worth  hearing  are  : — 
MM.  Olozaga,  Pacheeo^  Apffido  y 
Quyarro,  Gonsaki  Btmro^  etc.  Their 
doquence  is  floweiy,  degant,  graphic, 
racy,  Tery  eastern ;  diffuse,  sddom  to 
the  pdnt,  personal,  recriminatory ;  and 
thoughts,  often  richly  laden,  float,  with 
wingi  expanded  by  imagination,  upon 
a  sea  of  words,  and  too  often  sink. 

Senado  (Houm  0/ Lanit),'^A  ^trj 
low  edifice,  with  ^e  usual  triangular 
front  and  a  plaster  fafsde. 

Publie  O^Eeef.— The  Home  Office  is 
in  Puerta  dd  Sol,--Tery  square  Teqr 


296 


MADRID — SQUARES. 


heaTj,  rery  nglj,  and  the  work  of  the 
Frendi  trdiitect,  J.  Marquet,  who  for- 
got the  staircase,  which  was  sohse- 
qnently  placed  in  a  comer  of  the  edifice. 
The  Ministerio  de  la  Gfuerra  occupies  a 
▼ery  fine  large  building;  some  180  ft 
long,  on  each  facade,  near  the  Prado, 
and  called  *de  Buena  Vista.'  It  was 
built  by  the  Duchess  of  Alba,  mother 
of  the  present  duke^  and  afterwards 
purchased  by  the  obsequious  corpora- 
tion to  present  it  to  Qodcfy,  Principe  de 
la  Pac.  We  may  also  mention  the 
▼ery  laige  and  well-built  Oa$a  de  M<h 
mdct,  the  mint  erected  in  Paseo  de 
Recoletos  and  the  tobacco-manufactory. 
The  Finance,— Ministerio,  Calle  de  Al- 
caU,  the  Bank  of  San  Fernando,  a 
handsome  building  in  Calle  Atoc^ 
etc.  ;  close  to  it  is  the  paltry  Bolsa. 

There  are  some  fine  and  well-orga- 
nised hospitals— that  of  La  Princess, 
the  expenses  of  which  are  about  £8009. 
a-year ;  the  Facultad  de  Medicina  de 
San  Oarlos,  a  fine  building ;  Anatomi- 
cal Museo,  etc 

Private  Bourne, — ^The  mansion  of  the 
Duke  ofAXha,  called  Fahteio  de  Liria, 
is  low,  but  with  a  fine  facade  built  by 
Ventura  Rodriguez,  and  contains  a 
sumptuously -furnished  suite  of  apart- 
menti^  a  picture-gallery,  library,  ar- 
moury, and  a  theatre.  That  of  Duque 
de  FUloKermoea  on  the  Prado,  and  San 
Geronimo  on  the  Prado  ;  that  of  Mar' 
guSi  de  Oaeariera,  in  Calle  de  AlcaU, 
are  large  but  commonplace ;  that  of 
the  Duke  of  Medina  Celt  occupies  an 
area  of  245,000  square  feet ;  it  has  been 
recently  repaired  in  the  French  style 
of  the  17th  centuiy.  Notice  the  stair- 
case, reception-rooms,  and  armoury,  ' 
which  latter  forms  a  special  inde- 
pendent buflding.  The  church  and 
gardens,  etc,  are  all  worthy  of  that 
great  house.  In  the  Psseo  de  Recole- 
tos, which  is  the  Madrid  ATenue  de 
llmpinMoe,  seyenl  handsome  hoteb 


I  have  been  recently  constructed.  Ob- 
serve amongst  them  the  Italian  Palace 
of  Marquis  de  Salamanca  ;  everything 
that  taste,  wealth,  and  Andalusian  love 
of  display  can  produce^  has  been  col- 
lected here.  The  picture-gallery  is 
first-rate,  so  is  the  library ;  and  the 
conservatories,  a  reduced  model  of  the 
Crystal  Palace,  are  worth  a  visit  Op- 
posite to  the  Museo  tourists  must  not 
fail  to  visit  the  exquisite  Moorish  resi- 
dence which  Monsieur  Bousvilvahl,  one 
of  the  ablest  French  architects  of  the 
day,  has  constructed  for  Sr.  Xifr&. 

Squares,  Bridges,  Streets,  etc. — 
There  an  seventy-two  squares  in  Ma- 
drid, most  of  which  do  not  deserve  the 
name  The  principal  are  Plata  Mayor; 
434  ft  long,  834  wide,  1530  in  circum- 
ference This  square  is  surrounded  by 
an  open  portico  (80  portales),  divided 
by  pillara  rising  71  ft  high,  which 
support  the  three  storeys  of  the  houses. 
Several  arehed  ways  give  ingress  into 
it  On  the  site  of  a  former  one,  which 
was  made  in  the  reign  of  Juan  II.,  the 
present  one  was  built  for  Philip  III., 
by  h.  Gomez  de  Mora  ;  was  begun  De- 
cember 1617,  and  finished  two  yean 
after,  at  a  cost  of  9000  ducats ;  4000 
persons  were  lodged  in  the  houses 
around,  and  the  square  on  great  festivi- 
ties  would  hold  50,000  spectators,  when 
balconies  were  let  for  twelve  ducats,  a 
laige  sum  then,  but  small  in  proportion 
to  that  paid  at  the  reyal  bull-fights 
which  took  place  here  to  celebrate  the 
marriage  of  Queen  Isabel  IL  In  May 
1020  it  was  inaugurated  by  a  great 
^^mdon^  in  honour  of  the  Beatification 
of  San  Tsidro,  whose  canoniBation  took 
place  two  yean  after.  On  June  1, 
1028,  Charles  I.,  then  Prince  of  Wales, 
was  here  present  at  a  bull-fight ;  and 
on  August  21  cafias  took  place,  when 
all  the  beauty  and  grandees  gathered 
round  the  English  prince^  and  when  the 


KADRH) — 8QUABBS. 


297 


to  pay  him  court,  led  himself  one  ' 
of  the  ten  caadrillae.    Charles  sat  close 
to  his  affianced  bride,  the  Infanta  Maria, 
from  whom  he  was  separated  by  a  slen- 
der railing. 

In  1631  a  great  portion  of  the  S.  side 
was  destroyed  by  fire,  and  in  1672  an- 
other fire  consnmed  the  Panaderia.  In 
the  centre  stands  asoperb  equestrian 
statue  of  Philip  III.,  executed  by  Juan 
de  Bologna,  from  a  drawing  by  Pantoja, 
and  completed  by  Pedro  Taoca.  llie 
horse  looks  like  a  prize  cow,  which  is 
no  fault  of  the  artist,  but  of  the  breed. 
The  Plaza  is  the  rendezrous  of  the 
lower  clnsscs,  and  as  such  interesting 
to  the  artist  About  Christmas  it  pre- 
sents a  most  animated  sight — spiles  of 
oranges  and  sandias,  droves  of  turiceys, 
sweetmeats,  turrones  and  mazapanes, 
drums,  panderetas,  crowd  it  on  all  sides, 
converting  it  into  a  pandemonium  of 
delights. 

Puerla  del  iSoZ.— Said  to  derive  its 
name  from  one  of  the  gates  of  Old  Ma- 
drid, whjch  stood  here,  towards  the  K 
This  is  the  heart  of  the  city,  from  which 
the  main  streets  diverge,  like  so  many 
arteries.  It  is  the  rendezvous  of  idlers 
as  well  as  men  of  business,  for  here  all 
come  to  deal  with  time,  that  precious 
metal  which  the  wise  man  turns  into 
gold,  and  the  fool  squsnders.  Tomar 
el  9ol  ia,  however,  the  principal  occu- 
pation, and  endless  cigarritos  and 
schemes  are  pufied,  whi^  all  end  in 
smoke.  In  Ihe  centre  is  a  large  pond 
much  admired  by  the  natives,  and  in 
which  three  overheated  young  Britons 
dived  and  swam  some  time  since  by  way 
of  a  lark,  and  to  the  indignation  and 
stupor  of  the  police  and  passers  by  1 

Ftaxuelade  la  Filla (see  Town-Hall). 
The  laige  house  near  the  Town-hall  was 
the  palace  of  Cardinal  Zimenes,  and  the 
balcony  is  pointed  out,  looking  to  Calls 
del  Sacramento,  from  which  ^e  cardi- 
naly  on  his  being  asked,  by  a  depu- 


tation of  the  irritated  nobilify,  tc 
show  the  letters -patent  which  gave 
him  authority  over  them,  answered, 
pointing  to  the  formidable  array  of 
troops  and  cannons  which  were  formed 
on  the  plain  below  — '  These  are  the 
powers  by  which  I  govern  the  king- 
dom, and  I  will  continue  to  do  so^ 
until  the  king,  your  master  and  mine, 
comes  to  relieve  me ;  *  but  his  hirtorian, 
Alyar  Qomez,  denies  the  fact,  and  adds 
that  it  is  a  bad  imitation  of  Sdpio's 
saying.  Here  also  is  the  Tone  de  Ics 
Ltganes,  where  Frauds  I.  was  confined 
untQ  removed  to  the  palace,  and  from 
which,  according  to  Mr.  Scribe,  in  his 
'Contes  de  la  Reine  de  Navarre,'  he 
could  plainly  hear  singing  and  the 
guitar  pla3'ed  from  the  other  side  of  the 
Manzanares. 

Plazuela  de  la  Paja, — ^A  large  open 
square,  where  several  autos  da  f(&  and 
political  executions  have  taken  place. 
It  is  the  principal  corn-market  Be- 
tween this  and  the  Plazuela  de  la  Villa 
is  that  de  la  Cruz  Yerde^  in  the  centre 
of  which  stands  a  cross  which  marks 
the  spot  where  the  last  auto  da  tk  took 
place  in  Madrid. 

Plaaa  de  Oriente,—E,  of  Royal  Pa- 
lace, one  of  the  earliest  squares  planted 
with  trees,  and  which  have  since  become 
general  in  Madrid.  It  is  decorated  with 
indifierent  statues  of  kings  and  queens 
of  Spain,  which  formerly  stood  on  the 
stone  balustrade  of  the  palace.  In  the 
centre  is  a  magnificent  equestrian  statue 
of  Philip  IV.  on  his  war  charger,  a 
present  of  the  Grand  Duke  of  Tuscany. 
Montafies  carved  the  model  in  wood 
after  designs  by  Velazquez,  and  it  was 
cast  at  Florence,  1640,  by  Pietro  Tacca. 
It  weighs  180  cwt,  and  is  19  feet  high. 
Galileo  is  said  to  have  suggested  Uie 
means  by  which  the  balance  is  so  ad- 
mirably preserved.  All  the  fitmt  por- 
tion is  hollow,  and  the  hinder  massive. 
When  made  it  was  valued  at  40,000 


298 


ICADBID— STREETS. 


donblooiia.  The  baasi-rdieTi  represent 
Philip  IT.  knighting  VeUsquez,  an 
allegory,  eto. 

Streets. — The  handeomeet  street  is 
CfaUe  de  Aleald,  CalU  ifon<0ni»— This 
steep  street  is  lined  with  shops— half- 
way is  the  chorch  of  St  Lnisy  an  indif- 
ferent  edifice — and  terminates  at  a  foun- 
tain. It  deriTes  its  name  from  the  Mt 
wife  of  a  Montero  del  Rey,  who  llTed 
here.  The  portion  aronnd  the  church  is 
called  SddtU  San  ImU,  a  name  applied 
to  maikets  where  cattle  and  sheep  were 
sold,  and  especially  sheep,  which  are 
kept  within  esparto  nets  (redes). 

OabaUerode  CHraeia,  so  called  because 
Jaoopo  de  Grattis  of  If  odena,  a  knight 
of  the  order  of  Christ,  died  here  at  the 
age  of  102  (1019).  In  the  same  street 
died  also  Anthony  Asham,  Cromwell's 
ambassador,  who  was  murdered.  May 
6,  1660,  by  some  English  royalists,  to 
arenge  Charles  I.'s  death,  for  which 
Asham  had  voted. 

JoMmetrao,  so  called  from  the  resi- 
dence of  Jacopo  Trezso  of  Lombardy, 
a  sculptor  of  renown  in  the  reign  of 
Phib'p  II. 

Ligan<lp$,  Arabic^  al  Cfannih,  gar- 
dens, orchaj^  which  were  here  for- 
merly, extending  to  C^les  de  las  Huer- 
tas  and  Jardines ;  these  have  long  ago 
disappeared,  and  the  roses  that  grow 
here  now  hare  more  thorns  than  per- 
fvaat. 

In  Calle  de  Platerias  lived  the  plateros 
or  silversmiths^  some  of  whom  have 
continued  to  do  so. 

Gatsi:  Pueria  de  JleaUL^lt  is  a 
very  fine  triumphal  arch,  built  in  the 
reign  of  Charies  III.,  to  commemonite 
his  arrival  at  the  OSrte.  It  is  70  ft 
high  and  consists  of  5  arches.  It  was 
designed  by  Sabatini,  and  is  decorated 
with  lonio  columns,  the  capitals  of 
which  were  moulded  on  those  eie- 
outed  by  M.  Angelo  for  the  Capitol  at 
Bftmt. 


Puerta  de  Toledo  is  Isrge  but  of  no 
merit ;  that  of  ^SicMi  VieeiUe  is  indiifer^ 
ent 

Bridges!  PueiUe  de  Totedo.^Ytrj 
picturesque.  Consists  of  nine  arches, 
elegant  and  plain.  Buflt  on  site  of  a 
former  one  in  1786 ;  is  86  ft  wide  and 
886  long ;  half-way  are  the  statues  of 
San  Isidro  and  his  holy  wife.  On  the 
'  plains  around  It  (to  the  left,  next  the 
gate)  executions  take  place.  Here  the 
gallant  General  Diego  Leon  was  shot, 
for  supposed  higih  treason,  by  order  of 
Espartero^  and  fell  a  prey  to  party 
spirit;  andtheCuraMerino,whostabbed 
the  present  queen  some  years  since,  was 
garrotted  and  burnt  Public  execu- 
tions are  not  unf^uent,  and  their  elTect 
on  the  lower  classes  homoeopathic  and 
producing  crime. 

PuenU  de  Segovia,^A  well-built 
bridge  after  designs  by  Juan  de  Herrera, 
and  all  of  stone.  Nine  arches,  81  feet 
broad  and  606  long.  Though  much 
ii^ured  by  the  accumulation  of  sands 
and  n^lected,  it  is  nevertheless  a  fine 
bridge  and  deserves  a  river. 

The  Mttnaanaree, — This  waterless 
river  takes  its  source  eight  leagues  off, 
near  a  small  village  of  Uiat  name,  flows 
N.W.  to  8.E.,  croeses  the  Prado^  leaves 
the  Oasa  de  Campo  to  the  right  and 
Madrid  to  left,  and  four  leagues  farther 
it  joins  the  Tarama.  Like  meet  rivers  in 
Spain,  it  is  but  a  mountain  torrent  pro- 
duced by  snow%  and  therefore  almost 
dry  in  winter,  and  sometimes  overflow- 
ing in  the  spring.  Many  therefore  have 
been  the  pleasantries  of  which  this  poor 
stream  has  been  the  butt  The  C^nal 
de  Manxanares,  begun  by  (Charles  IIL, 
finished  by  Ferdinand  YII.,  and  which 
commenced  at  the  bridge  of  Toledo  and 
went  as  far  as  Yacia  Madrid,  has  been 
recently  suppressed.  The  Canal  de  Lo- 
soya  or  Isabd  II.  begins  at  Torrelaguna, 
70k.  off,  and  is  on  an  average  2m.  26o. 
broad  and  2nL  80c  high;  the  aqua* 


MADRID — ^THE  PBADO. 


299 


ducts  of  Aldehnelas  and  SotOlo  ire  the 
most  importaiit  works.  The  engineer, 
Sr.  Ludo  del  Yalle,  was  created  Mar- 
qnte  del  Lozoya. 

Pr<nU-hii$.^Tht  old  BCadrid  of  Lope 
de  Vega  and  Calderon,  the  Madrid  of 
Capa  7  Espada,  of  Oerrantes  and  Gil 
Bias,  was  situated  S.E.  of  the  palace. 
About  the  Almudena,  the  Carrera  de  S.. 
Francisco,  Biyada  de  la  Cuesta  de  la 
Vega,  Conscjos,  eta,  lived,  and  stiU 
live^  the  great  families  of  Malpicas,  In- 
fantados,  Ucedas,  Abrantes,  Villa- 
iVancas,  etc.  The  portion  about  Cava 
Bi^a,  Calle  Segovia,  Puerta  Cerrada, 
was  the  Moreria  and  Jews'  quarter. 
These  latter,  very  numerous  in  14th 
and  16th  centuries  here,  had  a  fine  syna- 
gogue,  and  paid  a  tribute  of  10,106 
maravediMS.  (Patron-general  formed 
at  Huete,  1848.)  The  physician  of 
Tenorio,  Archbishop  of  Toledo,  was  a 
Jew,  Maestro  Pedro  (1805).  The  Jews 
lived  also  on  the  heights  of  Las  Vis- 
tillas. 

Promenades. — In  the  time  of  En- 
rique lY.  the  paseo  was  'La  Bedon- 
diUa,'  near  the  Yistillas.  The  gentle- 
men rode  on  ponies  and  the  ladies  on 
mules,  richly  caparisoned,  and  riding 
on  rudana  saddles,  or,  i  la  gineta,  that 
is,  sideways^  but  more  especially  like 
men,  which  latter  custom  was  bi  use 
even  as  late  as  Charles  IV.'s  reign, 
whose  queen  adoptedlt  exclusively. 

The  Prado,  as  its  name  indicates, 
was  an  extensive  meadow  situated  near 
the  Betiro^  in  whose  palace  the  court 
of  Philip  lY.  almost  always  resided. 
Charles  III.  turned  it  into  a  promenade, 
planting  trees,  and  erecting  the  foun« 
tains,  etc 

The  Paseo  del  Prado  really  extends 
from  Church  of  Atooha  to  Calle  del 
Alcali ;  but  what  is  more  generally 
*•  the  Prado  is  s2  Salon,  a  mag- 


nificent walk  280  fL  broad,  and  situ- 
ated between  Carrera  de  San  Geronimo 
and  Calle  de  AlcaUL  The  fountains 
are  indiflerent,  and  by  Yergas,  Alvares^ 
etc  Notice,  however,  as  exceptions, 
the  Fuente  de  Neptuno,  by  Francisco 
Gutierrez,  and  that  of  Cibeles^  by 
Pascual  de  Mena.  Between  this  saion 
and  the  obeUsk  on  the  opposite  side  is 
abroad  drive  The  obelisco,  called  the 
'  £1  doe  de  Mayo,'  is  situated  on  left 
of  the  steep  avenue  leading  to  the 
Betiro.  It  stands  in  the  centre  of  a 
funereal-looking  garden,  called  Campo 
de  la  Lealtad,  and  was  erected  in  com- 
memoration of  a  oombat  which  took 
place  here  in  1808,  between  scnne 
paisanos,  headed  by  three  gallant  artQ- 
leiy  officers,  Buiz,  Daoiz,  and  Yelarde^ 
and  some  French  troope  under  General 
Lefranc,  who  were  endeavouring  (and 
finally  succeeded)  to  obtain  possession 
of  the  artillery  depdts  of  Monteleon. 

The  Prado  is  now  more  frequented 
by  the  lower  than  the  upper  clsssee, 
who  prefer  the  Fuente  Castellans 
Thehaursut,  during  the  winter,  from  4 
to  8  P.M.;  in  summer,  8  to  11  p.il, 
when  the  gas-lamps  are  lighted.  Iron 
chairs,  2  cuartos  each,  are  placed  in 
rows,  and  the  air  rings  with  'Fosforos 
y  cajillas,'  '  Agua  fresca  oomo  la  niebe, 
quien  la  pide,  k  seis  mais  (marivedises) 
naraigas.*  The  girls  and  boys  form 
'  cores,'  and  sing  whilst  turning  round, 
to  the  tune  of  'i  la  limonl  k  la 
limon  1 '  all  screamed  through  the  nose  ] 
for  the  human  voice  and  that  of  birds 
is  not  harmonious  in  the  south  as  it  is 
in  northern  dimes.  The  Fuente  Castel* 
lana  is  the  favourite  paseo  from  4.80  to 
6.80  P.M.  It  has  been  considerably 
improved  recently.  It  is  formed  by  a 
long  broad  avenue  in  the  centre^  a 
smaller  to  the  left  for  horsemen,  and 
walks  on  the  sides,  divided  by  rows  ol 
stumps,  called  trees,  and  watered  for  il- 
lusion's sake    There  are  two  fountains^ 


300 


MADRID. 


de  la  Alcacbofa  and  ObellBOo,  no 
modeb  of  taste.  The  equipages  are  rerj 
nomeroos,  and  well  got  up,  and  the 
hones,  mostly  English,  or  of  the  Tarbes 
breed,  handsome  and  costly. 

The  Paseo  de  la  Vvrgen  del  Puerto, 
near  the  Manzanares,  is  freqnented  by 
the  lower  classes  on  holidays.  It  was  a 
reiy  fashionable  resort  in  the  10th  and 
17th  centimes ;  and  on  the  morning  of 
8t  John's  Day,  ladies  went  down  to 
*  coger  el  tr^.bol '  ('  ah,  qn'il  fait  done 
bon,  oneillir  la  fraise,'  says  the  French 
song);  and  the  Verbena  nights  were 
boistmns  and  animated,  so  mnch  so, 
indeed,  that,  in  1688,  that  of  San  Juan 
was  prohibited  by  the  clei^,  to  pro- 
pitiate  Qod,  and  deserve  his  protection 
in  favour  of  the  'Armada  Santa,'  sent 
against  the  heretic  English.  The  only 
Bomeria  now  is  that  to  San  Isidro 
(May  15th),  a  small  church,  erected 
by  Charles  V.'s  queen ;  repaired  1724. 
Go  to  it  by  all  means,  and  look  at  the 
bncaro  yases^  cdntaros,  alcarraxas,  pu- 
cheros  with  bells,  etc.  That  of  San 
Antonio,  a  small  Hermita  on  the  Florida 
(another  promenade  little  frequented 
now),  is  the  exdusive  religious  festivity 
of  quadrupeds,  whose  patron  that  saint 
is  considered  to  be.  Strings  of  mules, 
horses,  donkeys,  flock  to  tiie  shrine  to 
be  blessed  by  the  priest  The  mules 
on  that  occasion  are  shorn,  esquiladas, 
and  tasteful  designs  cut  out  in  their 
hair,  such  as  flower-vases,  trees,  etc 
This  pious  pilgrimage  is  rigorously  ob- 
served by  grooms,  who,  in  their  seal  for 
the  welfare  of  their  masters*  beasts, 
push  on  always  to  the  shrines  of  god 
Carifiena  and  goddess  Cerbeza,  which 
are  dose  by. 

Buen  Batiro  (rdtro,  a  retreat,  seclu- 
sion, a  refuge). — ^Here  stood  formerly  a 
hunting-boz,  called  *£1  Coarto,'  and 
enlaiged  by  Philip  II.,  who  added  gal- 
leries and  four  towers,  likening  it  to  a 
viDa  in  which  he  had  lived  with  Queen 


Mary  during  his  sojourn  in  England. 
Count-Duke  of  Olivares,  Philip  IV.*s 
jirivado,  fearing  lest  want  of  amuse- 
ments should  turn  the  king's  mind  to 
politics,  built  a  new  palace  in  1830, 
which  became  the  rendezvous  of  wits 
and  great  artists,  and  was  celebrated  for 
its  theatricaU  and  masquerades.  It  was 
burnt  down  in  1734,  when  the  beauti- 
ful Titians  and  Yelazquezes  it  contained 
were  consumed.  There  are  two  small 
palados  now,  the  one  uninhabited,  and 
the  other  the  usual  residence  of  the 
Infante  Don  Francisco  de  Paula,  the 
queen's  unde.  The  gardens  are  ill-laid 
out,  and  not  kept  at  all ;  but  they  con- 
stitute the  only  pleasant  shady  pro 
menade  in  Madrid  of  any  size,  and  in 
the  spring;  when  its  numerous  hedges 
of  lilacs  bloom,  it  is  a  charming  i^nort 
At  the  end  of  the  broad  central  avenue, 
decorated  with  statues  of  kings  and 
queens  of  Spain,  is  a  large  pond,  si 
ealanqtte,  with  several  pavilions.  There 
was  formerly  a  flotilla  of  boats,  placed 
under  the  command  of  an  admiral  In 
the  menagerie,  Oaaa  de  Fieras,  live  two 
or  three  octogenarian  bears,  a  featherless 
hoary  eagle,  and  half-a-dozen  canaille- 
looking  monkeys,  which  seem  much 
bored,  and  full  of  spleen.  The  Reser- 
vado,  to  which  the  royal  family  repair, 
is  very  indifferent,  and  contains  the 
usual  silly  Swiss  mountains,  miniature 
oceans,  casa  del  pobre  richly  fitted  up^ 
casa  delpe8cador,or  better  pecador,  laby- 
rinths, etc.,  found  in  Spanish  royal  gar- 
dens. The  astronomical  observatory  here 
also  is  a  j^tty  building,  well  situated, 
and  with  many  excellent  instruments. 

Oaaino  de  la  Bayna. — Near  Puerta 
de  Embijadores,  where  generally  foreign 
princes  are  lodged.    The  house  is  hand  • 
somely  fbmished,  and  the  gardens  ei 
tensive  and  well  kept  up. 

Botanical  Oardem, — Entrance  oppo- 
site to  picture-gallery  (S.  aide).  Han 
been  improved   recently,  and  turned 


MADRID — ^DIRECTORY. 


303 


Coek'figmng,—ki  the  Circo  Qallis- 
ticp,  of  Recoletos ;  worth  a  yisit ;  stalls 
and  boxes.  Much  betting  On  Son- 
days  at  12  P.M. 

C7u6i— The  Casino,  Carrara  San  Ge- 
ronimo,  ftvqnentcd  by  the  best  society, 
well  famished,  excellent  table  d*hdte 
at  6.80  P.M.,  for  23r.,  wine  inclnded. 
TraTellers  presented  by  a  member  for 
a  fortnight,  gratis  —  if  for  more  time 
have  to  be  subjected  to  ballot,  and  {Miy 
16  dollars  on  entering,  and  80r.  a- 
month.  Trente  ct  quarante  well  at- 
tended, and  much  gambling.  Foreign 
papers,  reviews,  eto.  The  AUfUM,  Calle 
de  la  Montera,  quieter;  reading  and 
lecture  rooms.  If  yon  understand  the 
language,  attend  the  lectures  delivered 
by  Seftor  Alcala  Galiano,  Castelar,  etc. 
Conditions  almost  same  as  for  ouiito. 
Oireulo  de  Oomereio  and  Onion  Met' 
eaniil.  Two  other  second-rate  dubs, 
lieading-rooms,  Carrera  San  Geronimo 
No.  8,  ground  -  floor,  and  Colle  de  la 
Victoria. 

Madrid  Dlr«otox7.  BaiAs.—BaMM  df  la 
EttrtUm,  CalU  Sta.  CUrm  No.  3.  opea  all  the 
year  roaad,  8r.,  Unen  indaded,  good  marble 
baths.  D4  OrienUt  Plaza  Isabel  Segunda,  at 
Calle  Bordadores  No.  s.  Roasian  bathi,  arti- 
ficial tea  and  mineral  water,  etc  In  mmmer 
river  baths,  best  at  'Los  Geronimos'  opposite 
the  Quirch  of  S.  Antonia  de  la  Florida,  season 
from  July  I  to  August  so,  10  ft.  deep,  sr.  per 
person.  Go  early  b  the  morning.  BookuUirt. 
— BaiDy,  Bailfi^  Plaxuela  Sta.  Ana  No.  16. 
French  and  Spanish  and  some  Ei^lish  books, 
reriews,  etc  Duian,  Carrera  San  Geionimo 
No.  8,  Moro  and  Coesta.  Dcct^r.^Toca,  As 
a  surgeon,  especially,  be  is  considered  of  great 
eminence,  both  here  and  abroad,  Calle  de  la 
Victoria ;  fee,  at  home,  lofr.,  sor.  if  sent  for, 
qwaks  French  and  understand  English.  Car- 
retero,  lives  dose  to  the  French  Embassy, 
speaks  French,  very  careful,  btelligent :  fee, 
iolr.,ifsentfor.  Homoeopathic  doctors,  Hysem 
and  NuSes,  both  much  esteemed  by  the  k>vers 
of  the  infinitesimal  quantities,  lofr.  at  home, 
aofr.  if  sent  for.  Dentists.— U.  'Heehan,  a  first- 
rate  American  dentist,  especially  for  plugging ; 
Calle  AkaH—SeBor  Ludoviii,  Calle  Caretas. 
A^^thtatries.—^^ontX,  Puerta  del  Sol,  Nos.  5. 
7, 9.    English  and  Frnch  medicines  prepared 


and  sold,  mineral  waters,  etc. :  French  spoken.' 
Lletget,  Carrera  San  Geronimo  No.  361,  ditto* 
opened  day  and  night  Ac€»t»eJUurs,'-U»mk, 
and  the  queen's,  Marqu^  de  San  Gregotio. 
/>fVMMMArrr.— Madame  Conti,  No.  15  Cslle 
delDesengalla;  Madame  Caroline,  opposite  the 
Church  of  Sla.   Crus  (detras  de  b  Chu  el 
diablo),  CaOe  de  Atocha.     For  bonnets,  man- 
telets, panares,  Hooorina,  Calle  de  b  Victoria ; 
artificial  flowers.  Lopes,  Calle  de  la  Montera 
Na  93,  French  shop.    Fmmcy  SAtj^.-^Cantm 
de  Oro  No.  8,  Carrera  San  Geronimo  and  fos 
Alemanes,No.  ia,CaIledelaMontenL  CUvn, 
nscktist,  **<r<r,#<f.~Dnhost,Calto  Cairetas  Na 
4i>  and  CUmant,  same  street,  Na  13.    Hmtttr. 
— Afanable,  No.  4  Puerta  del  Sol,  and  Jnsto 
Gomes,  Cdle  de  Peligroc     7em9tttr9.^lM 
Saboyanoe  and  Ansorena,  both  Carret*  San 
Geronima :  Samper,  No.  39  Calle  del  Carmen. 
ifaa^-«l4^.~CanUis,  Calle  del  Principe  Na 
IS ;  and  same  name,  Calle  de  Postas.    Man- 
tillms  mmd  /K».~Fabrica  de  Almagn,  Calle 
del  Carmen.    MmtUU  shamU  mstd/mm.—Bix^ 
cenas,  Calle  Mayor.    Ftamtrs  mtut  JswfwiSr.^ 
At  Jardin  del  Cuial,  and  Calle  de  SaviUa,  ck>se 
toCafifSuisa    C^^Sv^MMt.-CalU  Snbo  Na 
la    Cdle  AlcaU ;  two  at  la  Puerta  del  Sol, 
and  De  la  Iberia.    Cdle  San  Geronimo:  fiul 
not  to  taste  m  summer  the  delicious  kotcbatade 
chufos,  and  agras,  aoM  at  horchaterias— the 
best  ck>se  to  HOtel  des  Princes.    Stmtimtry. 
— Marquirie,   Carrera  San  Geronima     /*/r> 
/mMw>— ViUakm,  Na  99  Calle  Fosncarral, 
and  Frera,  Na  i  CaOe  del  Csrmen.    Cigmrw, 
—No  good  ones  to  be  found  unless  at  Ibarra  y 
Morales,  Calle  Montera  6,  or  at  Manual  Bar- 
ren's, No.  36  Calle  de  Jardines,  Cuarto  bi^ 
de  la  Isquierda :  and  also,  but  not  as  good,  at 
the  Ca^na    Hmirdmstr. — For  Ladies,  Du- 
guet,  Calle  dePredados,  the  Felia  of  Madrid, 
4or.  if  sent  for;  for  men  also:  Caldnrajc*,  Calle 
de  la  Montera,  and  Edouard's.     MiJUk  mnA 
Butter.— CaatL  de  Vacas,  at  MootaBa  del  Prin- 
cipe Pio,s9toi4cuartosacuartilloof  nulk,i6r. 
to  sor.  a  pound  of  butter.     Good  salt  batter  at 
Lhardy's.  PasttyatekmmdlmtcJkeems. — Lhardy, 
Canera  San  Geronima     Pkat^gre^ker.—Ocd- 
ford's  Views  of  Monuments  in  Spain,  the  best  to 
had  at  CoronodeOro,  Carrera  San  Geromaso ; 
for  portraits,  ComteVemay  No.  6,  Cafle  Preda- 
dos,  and  Afonso  Martines :  Disckri,  Cslle  del 
Prindpe.     Shoemmker.—'^Xi.  35  Carrera  San 
Geronimo,    French  shop.      7W<2prr.— Borrd, 
French,  same  street ;  and  Pita,  ditta     WnUk- 
makers. — Riesterer,  a  German,  Calle  Akal4 
No.  4 ;  Ganter,  Calle  Seville  No.  is.  O^tieiatu. 
— Granelfi  and  Zarabca,  Calle  de  la  Montera. 
Grocery. — Las   Cokmias,    Na  is   Cslle   del 
Arenal,  and  Na  95  Carrera  San  Geronima 
/f^M#.-Calle  Hortafea  Na  19^  Moulini^  and 


304 


MADRID — nrviRONa. 


Ca  hm  SMrry  m  Madrid,  direct  ftoa  Dii- 
bote's  of  Jem.  The  Jctcs  mlMur  at  »r.  per 
iMMSlcaBd  coodBofdcanz  sod  fiqMon:  |Mle 
ale.  at  Mr.  per  bottk.  aod  coiwna  Valdcpdas 
atfr. 
S/miM  Lmgumgw.'^UaMtr,  Sdor  Cor- 
No.   19  CaOe  Canvtaa;  Imo  a  s«m1 


5>mAjI  5mv*  mmJ  Jfiu^.  — Taoglrt  by 
Scflor  Yradicr,  the  BMMt  popular  aod 
ftd  conoicr  of  Aadali 


i'ikiM  X^nmi*.— Sciorita  Mattia,  oi 
Cmltnani,  ear.  aad  4cr.  a  Icaoa. 

5>««AJl  />4MeAv^.— SeBor  Ruit.  ballct-BH»- 
ter  at  the  Oreo,  or  Principe  Theatre. 

F^mfimg  IfmOtr.^U.  Pk^CroM.  CaOe  del 
BaBo. 

OmnilmM*.— 0«Deiml  omnilms  from 
St  to  Puerto  del  Sol,  croaring  most  of 
the  prineipel  etreete.  For  traydler,  2r. 
in  dftjtime,  4r.  bj  night ;  for  a  port- 
minttwiii;  Ir.  or  2r. ;  for  a  hat-box  or 
carpet-bag;  (r.  or  Ir.,  according  to  day 
or  ni|^t  aerriceu 

FnvaU  Omnibimi, — 16r.  bj  day  and 
83r.  by  ni^t  80  kil  allowed  to  each 
carriage.    A  tariff. 

Hirad  Oarriagaa.— Small  one-horu 
broaghama,  called  berlinaa ;  when  nn- 
occnpied,  a  tmall  tin  card  atack  np  on 
the  comer,  with  the  worda  '  Se  alqnila.' 
Tariff  ^- 

Pars*— One  hone  and  two  teats. 
A  '  eoune.'  day  to  19  at  night  .  4r. 

u  ta  at  night  to  daybreak .    lor. 

By  the  hour       .        .        .        .       •      8r. 

By  the  hour s«r. 

N.B.'—it.  tot  9rtTy  extra  peraoo  by  coutm, 
and  ar.  by  hour. 

If  two-hone  calichei  with  four  aeatt. 
A  '  cowm/  day  to  midnight  6r. 

..  midnight  to  daybreak    .    s«r. 

By  the  hour tor. 

By  the  hour i4r. 

Eapecial  farea  for  driyea  to  raeeconiae, 
eto.,  bat  noi  to  and  from  atationa. 

OarKo^iii.— By  the  month,  half-year, 
etc,  at  Calle  de  la  Magdalene,  20r.  per 
half-a-day ;  with  a  footman,  60r. ;  a 
whole  day,  lOOr.  ;  a  month,  2400r. 
At  Calle  de  la  Qrada  No.  4,  half-day, 
60r.;  whole  day;  lOOr.;  a  month,  2400r. 


and  aOOOr.  ;  alao  at  CbOa  Yahcrda 
No.  80;  an  very  good  and  decent. 
Small  omnibnaea  and  caleaaa  lor  exeur- 
aMiii%  Galle  de  lea  Hnertaa  No.  70. 

Bankera.— Meana.  Bayo  y  Mora, 
correqwndento  of  London  and  Weat- 
minster  Bank,  Galle  de  la  Qreda  Na  9; 
Wetsweiller  and  Baner,  correapoodento 
of  Rothaehilda,  PlazneU  Sta.  Maria 
No.  2. 

Money  Ohangora.— Puerto  del  Sol 
and  Calle  del  Carmen.  JVliT.— Bank 
of  San  Fernando  notea  are  not  ennent 
on/ of  the  capital  (f). 

Poat  Office.— Oppoaito  Hotel  dea 
Princea,  atreet  to  right,  Calle  de  San 
Ricardo  Na  5.  Comea  in  twice  a-day, 
and  learea  at  8  p.m.  Letters  may  be 
sent  until  7  p.m.  (hours  may  rary  with 
new  railway  linea  opened) ;  for  interior 
of  dty,  three  poato  a-day.  The  fo- 
reigners' Ust,  pods  ivitoii^Deapacho  de 
la  Lists,  open  11  to  6,  ia  drawn  alpha- 
betically. A  letter  to  London,  50  hra. ; 
to  Paria,  40  hra. ;  to  Bayonne,  24  hra. 

Telegraph  Offloe.— Qround  flow  of 
HomeOfBee,  oppoaitoHOtd  dea  Princea ; 
always  open.  See  Genersl  Information  : 
TeUgraph, 

Chwrth  qfEnglanuL — ChapUin,  Ber. 
W.  A.  Campbell.  Diyine  aerrice  on 
Sundays  at  11.80  A.M.,  at  the  Britiah 
Legation.  A  Protestont  burial-ground 
outside  Puerto  de  Toledo,  supported  by 
Toluntary  oontributiona. 

British  Lsgaiion,^C9Xle  Tor^a  Na 
9,  chanc.  houra  from  9  A.M.  to  4.80 

P.M. 

Frendi  Bmbasty, — Chanc.  from  2  to 
4  p.m.    CaUe  Torija  Na  14. 

Austrian  LsgatunL-^CsXit  de  la  £a- 
treUaNa  22. 

ir^iMii.— Calle  del  Barquillo  Na 
14. 

iMn^.— Calle  Fuencarral  No.  98. 

Jlnafui.— Calle  San  Mateo  Na  18. 

.9iM(iMi.^Calle  del  Sordo  No.  87. 

/Vnfffia.— Calle  de  Hortaleia  Na  80. 


w .>. cc.  ^ljlll^ y. 


'r'''^ 


MADRID. 


305 


The  Fmrrigi^  Qfie$  is  situated  in  the 
Koyal  Palace,  groond-floor,  called  iVi- 
mera  Seeretaria  d$  Edado, 

Oajritama-OeneraL — Snbida  de  los 
Angdes,  No.  18.  The  Captain-General 
gives  aadienoe  from  10  A.M.  to  12  on 
Tuesdays  and  Fridays.  Foreigners  who 
have  any  complaint  to  make  can  apply 
tp  this  anthority ;  but  if  to  recover  lost 
articles,  or  in  case  of  petty  conflicts  and 
difficulties  with  natives,  apply  to  any 
Inspector  de  Yigilancia,  who  is  gener- 
ally civil,  may  be  intelligent,  but  must 
not  be  expected  to  be  active. 


Bnvlrona. — Ca$a  de  Oampo, — A 
royal  shooting-box,  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  Manzanares,  12  m.  in  circum- 
ference, begun  by  Charles  III.  The 
house  is  pidtry ;  the  supply  of  water 
is  abundant,  and  there  are  some  fine 
avenues.  Drive  through  the  Calle 
Azul,  round  the  pond,  to  the  race- 
course, where  a  caricature  Derby  takes 
place  in  May.  Good  shooting.  Apply 
for  permit  to  visit  the  royal  country- 
houses  to  Intendente  de  la  Casa  Real 
Visit  La  Mondoa^  to  which  place  the 
Buen  Betiro  poroc^lain-manufactory  has 
been  removed.  Casino  de  la  JSeina, — 
A  small  palace  where  foreign  princes 
and  great  personages  on  a  ^sit  to  the 
Ooort  are  lodged.  Shown  on  Wed- 
nesdays and  Saturdays  from  11  A.  M.  to 
2  P.M.  El  iViftio.— Situated  2  lesgues 
N.W.,  on  left  bank  of  the  river. 
Palace  begun  by  Philip  III.,  and  en- 
larged by  Charles  III. ;  shooting  first- 
rate.  Visit  the  tapestried  rooms, 
theatre,  etc 

Alameda, — ^14  hr.  drive,  the  countiy- 
seat  of  Duke  of  Osuna ;  apply  for  per- 
mit to  his  head  steward.  Some  fine 
avenues ;  the  gardens  well  supplied 
with  water.    Look  at  some  finely-cured 


gronpe  of  tauromachian  satjeet^  also 
at  the  stables  and  grounds. 

Lot  CambanAeleM. — Two  nuserable 
villages,  one  de  arriba  and  the  other 
de  abc^'o,  where  some  Madrid  people 
have  had  the  courage  to  build  villas ; 
amongst  them  Countess  Montyo ;  1  ^ 
hour*s  drive,  the  fine  bridge  of  Toledo  - 
is  crossed. 


Dutmmcn  U IJU  frincipmi  vOUgn 
Madrid, 

Aiootcon,  a  l«miei^  And  road  to  Bsdijot. 
Akovendas,  3  kagties,  road  to  Bayotmc: 
AigaDda,  4  kagoes,  wccdtent  iiiMiiiii  rtd 
wise. 

and  paddods  of 


leagues.     Good  thoociag— hares 


Algeta,  5 
Duqoe  del  Setto. 

Ban^as,  9 
and  partridge 

Batres,  5  leagues. 

Bastan,  6  leagues. 

Canillfjas,  i|  league. 

Carabanchel  Alto,  |  league    Vide  nt^rm. 
w  Bi^lleague.    VideM^nc 

Catwrnillai,  (leagues.  Road  to  Bajrooae; 
some  shooting. 

Chamartin,  1  league  A  dilapidated  viUa  of 
Duque  de  Osuna,  where  Napoleon  lodged. 

Chincboii,  6  leagues. 

Fueocarxal,  i|  league  Eggs  sold  at  Madrid 
oome  'frescos  de  Fuencarral,'  where  thej  par- 
haps  were  hatched  for  asoaths  befbre 

Hortalesa,  i|  league  As  fenner,  oa  Bajr- 
onneroad;  large  TiUsge 

I^cgancs,  if  league    Lunatic  AsyhuB. 

Loeches,  5  leagues.    Mineral  tpmg. 

Molar  (d),  7  leagues.    Mineral  ^iriag. 

Naralcarnero^  5  leagues.  F.TCfllent  "■— ■r'n 
red  arine 

Ptesadilla,  8^  leagues.  Good  shooting ;  Solos, 
especially  that  of  Sr.  D.  Andrd's  CabaUera 

Romanillos,  4  leagues.  Estates  of  Duque  da 
Alba  :  wolf-hunting,  d  9ff0  in  winter. 

Torrejon  deArdds,  3  leagues.  Site  of  battle 
won  fay  Marshal  Narvaes  over  the  Csrfists. 

Vada  Madrid.  3  leM«>es. 

Vallecas,  \\  league    FossQ  deposits. 

Valverde,  5^  leagues. 

Vicahraro,  i  league  Battle  won,  i8s4t  by 
Marshal  (yDonneU,  against  the  San  Lois  Go- 
Tenunefit  gencrius. 

VillaTieioBa,  3  leagues. 
gooddinuUe  Escdadelogeaicaosdei 


sot 


MALAGA. 


Malawi  ^CtplUl  of  prorluM  of  ttma 
0MI4  {  Ufbop's  •••,  tad  a  trading  ie»- 
port  f  pop,  (IMl),  H782. 

BouUt  Mid  OonToranoo  from 
or  to  if Afrid  Bj  nU 
tbroitghottt ;  md  thus :  Ma- 
drid to  Cdrdora,  16|  bn. ; 
hm,  104.60,  160.75.  CMoTa  to  Ma- 
la^ tlua,  0  hrf.{  farw,  0$.60,  70.26. 
Two  tmifli  a-dax*    I>i*Unoe,  198  kiL 

Tlito  U  tho  mofft  direct  route  between 
Madrid  and  Milaga.  Tlia  toenery  is 
not  devoid  of  interest  The  principal 
lown  on  tiie  way  is  Aitmiilla. 

Jktoripiim  qf  J{ou/i.— Bhortly  after 
Isaving  (Mrdova,  the  Ouadalquirir  is 
crossed  on  a  slieet-iron  bridge,  resting  on 
tubular  piers  17  metres  high.  The  in- 
slgnilluantOuadi^ocillo  stream  is  crossed 
throe  times,  and  /Vman  NulUt  is 
r«iached-*a  smsll  insignificant  town, 
0000  inhablUnts,  with  an  old  *paUcio,' 
the  property  of  the  duke  of  that  name. 
Ascending  slightly,  we  soon  get  to  Man' 
Mia,  16,000  inhaUtanU ;  a  rtrj  strik- 
ingly situated  town,  rising  on  two  hills, 
frum  which  the  view  is  rery  extensive. 
Bee  for  details  on  tlie  oelebrated  wine 
produced  here,  Odrdomtf  Excursions, 
and  Qeneral  Informstlon }  JVins,  On 
leaving,  the  Hio  Cnhra  is  crossed,  and 
JffuHar  is  reached,  s  small  town  of 
1)1.000  luhi^bitauta,  near  wbioli  are 
tome  estates  b«loii)(ing  to  the  wealthy 
house  of  M«Mlliiao«li.  Kxoellent  wines, 
whttih  go  by  tlie  name  of  Montilla. 
Au  iiilenMtlua  though  dilapidsted 
MMvi«h  iMutltf  ;  oUmm  to  it,  upon  a  bill, 
stands  the  l^tlllo  de  Ansur,  the  pro- 
perty  of  the  Duke  of  Medinacali.  The 
(Wil  is  onvMed  shortly  after  leaving 
tbe  stream  of  i\tmi4  Otnit^  on  an  iron 
bridge^    04iiee  to  strmm  and  town  of 


FueiUe  d€  Pfedra  an  tome  exoeOent 
springs,  wbldi  dtber  core,  or  sn  mre 
to  slleviata,  tiiose  who  tnffer  from  tbe 
dons,  wbenee  tha  town  bas  derived  its 
second  name.  On  right  of  stresm,  a 
small  aslt-water  hke,  16  kiL  drcnit ; 
on  left,  a  lofty  bill ;  on  tbe  opposite 
side,  the  fertila  'Cunpiba'  of  Anter 
c|nera. 

Bobadilla.—Cnm  tbs  GasdaIbmo^ 
branch  line  to  Antequera,  whence  to 
Qranada.  A  tunnel  800  met  long. 
OobanUi,  2  brs*.  walk,  leads  to  tbe 
mncb  f^qnented  miners!  baths  of  Car- 
ratraca,  by  wbicb  one  can  also  go  to 
Ronda.  Some  10  kiL  W.,  another  road 
lends  across  the  Sierra  de  Pebambia  to 
the  town  (4000  inhabitants)  and  estates 
of  T'd&s,  the  apanage  of  tbe  Emprees  of 
the  French,  who  is  Condesa  de  Teba. 
Tbe  wines  produced  in  its  vicinity  are 
very  like  tbat  of  Jerez.  There  sn  some 
tracts  of  wild  scenery,  especially  tbe 
rocky  '  Hoyo,'  a  little  beyond  this  last 
stream,  and  a  series  of  tunnels,  6000  m. 
long,  aresuccessively  traversed.  Iron  and 
stone  viaducts,  tunnels,  and  other  exten- 
sive and  costly  works,  have  been  required 
to  overcome  tbe  difficulties  offered  by 
the  nature  of  tbe  oonntry.  On  leaving 
tbe  last  tunnel,  a  beantilU  orange- 
growing  valley  is  traversed,  succeeded, 
shortly  after  leaving  station  of  AIot% 
by  others,  planted,  besides,  with  citrona 
trees,  pomegranates,  etc  i^asma,  1600 
inhabitants.  Travellers  going  to  Ronda 
or  Canratraca,  when  pruceeding  from 
Malaga,  take  a  road  which  leads  from 
tbittUtion,2bim.  Close  to  Ovtevia,  an 
ancient  but  now  most  ioaignificant  town 
on  a  bill,  mi^be  seen  tbe  ruins  of  an 
old  fortnss.  Tbe  soU  aroond  ii  vary 
fertile. 


MALAGA. 


307 


At  Makga,  station  Inues  in  attend- 
ance ;  Ir.  per  trareller ;  2r.  with  luggage. 
From  86¥llla.~By  rail 
to  CdrdoTa,  whence  iU 
wpra;  also  hj  Utrera  to 
Moron,  rL,  1)  n.,  whence  by  dil  and  rL 
From  Ja«n.--8ee  C&rdova. 
From  Oranada. — By  rail  and  diL  to 
station  of  £obadilla,  whence  by  rail 
direct    Q^OraniOdtk 

iaa  ine  by  Gibraltar.  See  Oib- 
MUL  rattari  bylrail.  Utrera  and 
Moron,  ui  niprOf  or  l^  CordoTa^ 

By  Sea.'-Lope^i  dsam' 
en,  the  best  and  fastest; 
carry  the  mail  Agents  at  Oadic,  Al- 
barznza  Hermanos ;  at  Malaga,  D.  Lnis 
Dnarte,  Oalle  de  San  Bernardo  el  Yiego 
No.  1.  Leave  Cadis  for  Malaga  on  1st 
and  10th  of  every  month  at  2  p.m. 
Time,  direct,  15  hrs.  Fares :  1st  cL, 
ISOr.;  2d cL,  lOOr.;  8d  cL,  60r.  The 
Frendi  Company  have  a  direct  service, 
and  a  special  one,  on  the  1st,  11th,  and 
21st  of  every  month  ;  olBce  at  Maloga, 
M.  Emilio  Scholts  Neven,  21  Alameda. 
1st  d.,  OOr. ;  2d  cL,  65r. 

^ZieaiOs.— From  Alicante  to  Malaga 
and  Cadiz,  by  Lopez's  steamers,  on  9th 
and  24th  of  every  month,  and  arrive  on 
12th  and  27th.  Offices  at  Alicante.  82 
hrs.  Fares :  1st  oL,  260r. ;  2d cL,  180r. ; 
8d  cL,  90r.  Leave  for  AUcante,  Barce- 
lona, and  Marseilles,  on  2d  and  17th  of 
every  month,  at  12  A.it.  Fares  :  1st 
cL,  260r.;  2d  cL,  180r.;  8d  oL,  90r. 
Same  for  Barcelona. 

From  Cfenca,  Leghorn^ 
MesHna,  and  P^Urmo,  by 
a  good  large  English  steamer,  the  '  Pa- 
lerma'  Office  at  Malaga,  Mr.  T. 
M'Callooh,  CaUe  de  la  Yend^a  No.  1. 

Steamar/rom  OibraUar, — See  OibnU- 
iar,  6  to  8  hours  by  sea. 


gesiru,  TtfrnfOMi,  «tc,  wfaidi  nay  be  ahvmji 
baud  of  at  Mann  H.  Molina  aixl  HUo**, 
Plasuda  Arriok  Na  13:  ZonrOla's,  CortiiM 
del  Moella,  No.  33;  Gome^,  Afauaeda  No. 
31,  etc  ;  and  art  duly  adverttaed  ia  the  hotda 
and  local  fMqpen.  There  are  Kkewiee  laifer 
and  oocaaioaal  tteamera  to  LiTerpool,  London^ 
Hambuiy,  Ha^re,  and  GaUidan  ports.  iV.^.— 
Before  taking  tadeets  at  the  oflfee,  we  adriee 
travellen  to  visit  the  steamer,  and  see  whether 
it  may  smt  them  or  not,  as  they  are,  lor  the 
most  part,  small  tradinf  steamers^  and  afford 
but  scanty  room  and  oomlbct  for  human  car- 


From  Oarratraea,  daily  duringthe  1 

SOIL  Dil.  office  atFondade 
los  Tree  Reyes,  every  ni|^t 
at  11.  Fares :  berL,  50r. ; 
int,  40r. ;  coap^  80r.  Offices  at  Car- 
ratraca,  in  Fonda  de  Calenoo^  which  is 
the  best  Take  dil.  up  at  St  of  La 
Pizarra,  1  hoar  from  Malaga.  Beanti- 
fol  acenery  in  the  vidnity.  {Be^O^nwal 
Information:  Mineral  Springs.)  There 
is  another  night  service,  Alameda,  Na 
16,  and  in  Calle  de  Panaderos^  every 
second  day. 

To  Chwrricma  and  Bl  Pah,  Small 
dil.  daily ;  leave  at  8  A.it.  and  4  pjl 
Fares :  6r.  to  former,  and  2r.  to  latter. 
Offices,  Calle  del  Desengaho,  Na  I. 


I  are  constantly  steamen  plying  between 
the  smaller  ports  00  the  coast  of  the  Mediter- 
and  Atbatic,  Cartegena,  Almeria,  Al- 


Olimate.— Malaga  is  situated  88*  12^ 
58*  lat  N.,  and  80*  48^  long.  W.  of 
Paris;  88*  42*  18'  Ut  N^  and  48^  8" 
long.  W.  of  Madrid ;  and  88*  48^  lat 
N.,  and  4*  25'  long.  W.  of  Greenwich. 

Malaga  constitutes  one  of  the  most 
important  medical  stations  in  the  worid, 
and  must  necessarily  become  better  ap* 
predated  as  it  is  better  known. 

SituaUon. — ^Its  very  situation  is  most 
favourable  to  constitute  a  good  climate. 
Malaga  lies  opened  to  the  fresh  breezes 
from  the  E.  and  to  the  warm  S.,  whilst 
it  is  absolutely  screened  frtnn  the  N. 
by  its  lofty  hills.  To  the  W.  it  is 
somewhat  exposed  to  the  north- 


HALAGA — CLDUTK 


teml  (tha  Ftmch  nuAoJ  uid  tht 
Italikn  IramtmlatM),  which  1»  luhered 
in  throDgh  tha  Boc*  del  Amo,  &  pp 
in  thg  Blsm  de  Torasl ;  bnt  even  thai 
wind  i*  not  ptmieiotu^  bat  dij  and 
■Umnlating  mt  all  leawniJ. 

TEMPERATURE  OF  MALAGA. 
Acestdbg  to  Fihmbait'i  ThaBoaHKr  placed 
In  tba  opa  tow*,  n  lb*  ilaidi,  nd  &da| 
IbaNsnIi. 


1S6T.M 

■  iLX. 

*F.-. 

..r.K. 

N«.    1. 

r 

s* 

6a 

^ 

H 

!!  JO. 

•i 

6i 

JO 
•9 

Dw.    t 

s 

(i4 
7« 

$ 

SO 

*> 

»■ 

•9 

.•61. u 

Jul     r. 

J« 

e 

«* 

;;   S 

1 

<9 

Fft.':: 

S" 

»■ 

»      B- 

«s 

J> 

&4 

so 

5« 

« 

3» 

s» 

::  ii 

s» 

9« 

9> 

tl  k  voir  dunni  Jufl,  Jq)T»  AbcdA,  and 
SfpMabw,  that  Iha  loBptnton  ■  too  wun 
to  b«  Bcnealik,  tba  thowuHer  than  mi(tDC 


■d  bnoBf .    Th*n  u  soduhf  « 

Tb«  fTtx  Hlv«iiac«  of  lb 


of  rotatioQ;  E.,  aE., 


MALAGA — OUMATK 


309 


word,  we  must  obserre — 1.  The  anta- 
gonism between  the  sea  and  land  winds; 
2.  The  preralence  of  the  fonner  dnr- 
ing  ipfing  and  sammer ;  8.  The  prera- 
lenoe  of  the  latter  in  antomn  and 
winter.  The  air  is  genmrallj  dry  and 
Inacing. 

Tmnperatutre. — ^The  average  annual 
temperature  obeenred  daring  nine 
years,  1837  to  1848,  by  Doctor  Marti- 
nes  y  Mont^  is  represented  by  19*  14 
centigrades. 

Winter    .  t3.tae. 

Spring    .  •        9as8 
Sumnwr .  s&SS 

Autumn  .  s6.s8 

In  winter  there  is  only  8*  difference 
between  the  hi^^est  and  the  lowest 
temperatnre— Tis.  that  which  separates 
January  (11-78),  from  March  (14*86). 

Twnptf  tnrt  at  Malaga  In  an  Average  Bed- 
room without  Fira.    Thenn.  Fahr. 


x849-sa 

Nov. 

Dec. 

Jaii. 
58.5 

Feb. 
63 

Mar. 

6a.8 

At  8  a.m.  . 

64.3 

61 

open 

66.S 

6a.4 

6a5 

64.8 

^2 
63.8 

At  to  |».m. 

65.8 

6a 

60.3 

64.5 

tnotehours    . 

70 

69 

66 

66 

66 

iL^mrtti    during 

theday.        . 

63 

S* 

54 

6a 

6a 

Greatest  range  at 

xo|».m.  . 

4 

IS 

XX 

3 

3 

The  mean  winter  temperature  is  66  *41 ; 
thus  it  is  that  Malaga  is  6*  wanner 
than  Bome,  T  than  Nice,  8*  than  Pisa, 
18*  than  Pau,  16*  than  London.  But 
it  also  is  6*  colder  than  Madeira,  4* 
than  Oairo,  8*  than  Malta.  The  mean 
temperature  of  spring  is  62*66,  being 
identical  with  Malta  and  Madeira,  but 
6*  wanner  than  Bome  or  Pisa,  and  8* 
than  Pan.  'The  mean  annual  range 
is  40,  many  degrees  lees  than  any  other 
place  on  iht  Omtinent;  that  at  Pau 
being  68* ;  at  Bome,  62*  ;'at  Nice,  60*. 
The  range  of  Madeira,  howcTer,  is  only 
81*.    I^  mean  daily  range  amounts 


to  4*1  only,  and  in  this  respect  the 
climate  is  superior  to  any  that  has 
been  noticed ;  the  daily  range  of  Ma- 
deira being  94*;  of  Bome,  10*;  of 
Nice,  9*.'  (Dr.  E.  Lee,  Spam  and  itt 
Clunaiei,) 

The  aboye  details  are  from  a  bro- 
chure on  the  Chapel  and  C!emetery,  to 
which  the  writer  has  appended  notes  on 
the  climate.  These  are  mostly  gathered 
from  the  journals  of  iuTalids^  and  may 
be  entirely  depended  upon.  It  also 
states  that  'constant  sunshine  seems 
to  be  a  characteristic  of  Malaga.'  A 
day  on  which  the  sun  does  not  shine 
at  all  is  very  unusual,  especially  in  No- 
rember,  December,  and  January.  In 
February  and  March  the  air  is  lees  dry, 
and  a  few  cloudy  and  OTercast  days 
generally  occur;  but  eren  of  these 
days  a  portion  is  frequently  bright  and 
clear. 

Drynen  of  Air, — There  are  not  dur- 
ing the  whole  year  more  than  ten  days 
on  which  rain  would  prevent  an  inralid 
from  taking  exercise.  It  is  the  extreme 
dryness  of  the  air  that  seems  to  be  the 
most  remarked  feature  in  the  climate 
of  Malaga ;  and  it  is  this  which  renders 
it  for  many  invalids  much  superior  to 
Madeira,  which,  although  warmer  by 
some  degrees  in  the  middle  of  winter, 
is  very  damp  and  relaxing.  (For  com- 
parison with  temperature  of  principal 
medical  stations,  see. (General  Informa- 
tion: CZtmoO.)  From  this  table  it  will 
be  seen  that  it  is  only  2*  lower  than 
Malta,  and  6*  than  Madeira,  for  the 
mean  winter  and  spring  temperature — 
being  higher  than  all  the  most  ode- 
brsted  places  in  Europe,  and,  indeed, 
in  spring  it  is  64*  higher  than  eren 
Malta  and  Madeira.  The  thennometer 
seldom  or  nerer  falls  to  0* ;  and  as  to 
snow,  the  oldest  inhabitants  do  not  re- 
member to  hare  erer  seen  it 

It  rains  now  but  seldom ;  and  the 
eraporation  is  so  great  that  the  tain 


L 


31t) 


MALAGA— OLDCATS. 


that  IaUb  bM  no  inflaenoe  on  the  air, 
and,  to  be  abnnduit,  a  ibock,  or  strong 
contrast  between  the  E.  and  W.  windi, 
or  between  the  E.  and  S.W.,  is  neces- 
sary. During  nine  years  it  ban  rained 
only  262  times,  being  an  ayerage  of  89 
rainy  days  in  the  year ;  the  quantity 
fallen  measuring  406  milL  Now,  the 
number  of  rainy  days  (yearly)  at 
Msdeirm  is  70 ;  at  Rome  and  Naples, 
twice  as  mnoh  as  at  HaUga ;  and  at 
Pisa,  hr  beyond.  The  sky  is  clear  and 
limpid  all  tbe  year  round ;  and  the  iky 
of  the  Oampagna  of  Borne,  the  heaven 
of  Greece,  is  nothing  compared  to  the 
splendours  of  the  gold  and  purple  at* 
mosphero  in  which  the  sunset  bathea 
this  fayouied  dty.  Now,  during  the 
aboTc  nine  year%  the  state  of  the  at- 
mosphero 


UMT 

«»74« 

e. 

Ckmdy    . 

69s 

$$ 

lUiay      . 

s6a 

n 

Light  Cloods  . 

988 

»» 

Tofgy^nuatf 

s6 

•* 

tap 

T«aqMttuout  • 

3 

•• 

(0 

(0 


The  annual  mean  is  l(l*5w  The 
greater  proportionate  amount  of  rain, 
says  Dr.  Lm^  fidling  in  the  autumnal 
months. 

Raiw  TaiU-    OtmnmiioiM  fima  ntfUiiailu  1 
S846 10  Sipfhir  sSss. 


1 

M 

M 

1 

M 

1 

M 

Proia  S«pc  to 
Doc  indushro 

FhMi  Jan.  to 
Anf.  bdoitve 

«4.S 

9^3 

sas 

6.5 
sas 

as 

3.  SO 

88 

IPC Hot     •      •      * 

•>•  «?.72 

(Topographk  Modica  do  la  Gndaddo  Ma- 
li^ por  D.  MartiMs  y  Moot^  Mali«a  tSsa.) 

Ii^htmui  rf  fkiM  ClimaU  m  BmUh 
tmd  ZHfeoML— The  characteristics  of  the 
climate  ara  great  dzyness  of  the  air 
and  trifling  fidl  of  lain,  hi|^  winter 
temperatne^  absence  of  pernicious  winds 


and  storm%  preralenoe  of  bright  and 
clear  weather.  The  houses  aro  generally 
badly  prepared  against  the  heat ;  the 
choice  of  a  house,  its  aspect,  eta,  aro 
thereforo  important.  The  changes  be- 
tween diurnal  and  nocturnal  tempera- 
turo  aro  often  pernicious  to  very  deli- 
cate nerrous  constitutions.  The  terral 
produces  excitation  both  in  healtliy 
and  sick  persons,  and  aggrarates 
phthisical  affections;  and  cerobral 
congestions  often  arise,  inducing,  more- 
over, paralysis.  The  levanter  produces 
different  kinds  of  neurosis,  and,  by  sup- 
pressing the  transpiration,  predisposes 
to  affections  of  the  digestive  oigans. 
The  mortality  tables  in  tiie  hospital  for 
nine  years  (1840  to  1849)  show  the  fol- 
lowing cases : — 

GastitMttaxic  and  typhoid  feven  90 

Apoplexy  and  chrooic  ccrehcal  affoctioi.  64 

Phthim t39 

Chrooic  aflectioM  of  the  difoatiTOOfgaat  33a 

Dyientery 87 

I>ropiy «S9 

Wounds S4a 

Phthisis  and  chronic  diseases  of  the 
respiratory  oigans  constitute  about  a 
ninth  part  of  ^e  whole  mortality  in  the 
town  and  hospitaL  This  climate  is 
advantageous  to  already  consumptive 
persons^  calculated  as  it  ii  to  retard 
the  manifestation  of  serious  symptoms, 
but  it  also  weakens  and  morbifies,  if  we 
could  so  say,  the  healthy  tuberole,  and 
often  causes  the  disease,  among  the 
younger  portion  of  the  population  and 
hi^er  dssses  especially,  opposing  no 
invigorating  influence,  but  on  the  con- 
traiy,  aiding  the  debility  and  annihila- 
tion which  may  be  caused  by  excesses, 
thero  being  a  great  and  continual  ex- 
pense of  life  in  this  hothouse  tempera- 
ture. 

O^ittim  t/Dr.  Ed.  Lm.^K  wtnter  naid- 
enoa  would  he  advantagooos  in  ouny  of  the 
caiea  of  dtttrioffatwl  t»oy^*t>  an^  liinctioaal  die* 
Older  of  die  digestive  apparatus.  In  all  con* 
plaints  reierahle  to  nervous  eicifaliop,  ia  tts* 


It  of  Ibii  tvut  nd  luc  nMcU,  m 

la  MhirwiH.  O*  lb* 
a  kud,  iIh  nniuhidrTiKV,  ud  Eqaibiliir 
1i*  dnat*  wndd  pnm  MfMr  bmdteiil ' 


den,  Fail,  sr  Rn,  tku  of  H*las>  lwii(.  ba 
Ihinl^  'patinkriy  cnlcaUtcd  Is  miHdr 
diimi  Id  IbgM  Milr  •!■(«•  >Imi  iIh  pr 

n  dT  >  lu«u>d. 


■  Puk  RooH,  Fiu,  Mkdcin.  m 
{nTeraUe),  the  cGnuu  of  Miiefi  Huld  bs 
likclr  to  pim  enineMl^  •erncmblc,  and 
BUT  ox^  pWHMi  miabt  oobWciuIt  look  bc- 
wd  u  ■  pemueu  cm*.  Oinini^  COUfhi, 
BKia  kiodi  cl  ulhiu.  aiQ  b*  ibo  iptdily 
cund,  Df  ftt  Icul  couidenUy  Aflermted. 

FnecvX— MnlnfJL  beinf  ■  drj,  rebxinf  cKmale, 


nnlled  fna  Allcuile  Id  Mihti 
■nth s ran)  Eli(lii)iiiiuwbani&riHlniK«d 
m  pbthwiL,  and  appmnntkj  trry  tjaaeble.     In 

oruli.  thn  climiite  n 


uptct,  ID  iiud  the  N.W.  AimiL  Thf  _ai- 
uHiT  UU«  (Ibw  i.ij  in  Ibc  air  (iMs),  of 
which  ig  snl  tt  {461  died  aged  bMnin  gi  ud 


Hotels. — I.  Fmtda  dt  la  Alunuda, 
OD  ths  ihadj  fiuhioiubkt  promeiuda  of 
tlut  nune.  A  Ads  lugs  honae,  with 
good  ezponre ;  kept  bj  tha  Swim 
brother*  Bmnetti  ;  irrTice  good ;  in- 
tcrpretot*  uul  cicerone*  speaking  Bng- 
UahandFrencK  Room*  well  fnmiilwd; 
cooking  Tcrf  good  ;  chaigc*  Iiigh,  and 
detcnnined  by  tbe  aspect  and  (tatej. 
On  Paertk  del  Mar,  and  Calls  d«  Pan*- 
deroa,  SOr.  «-day.  Enttesol  on  Alameda, 
SOr. ;  first  floor,  EOr. ;  second  Boor,  40r. 
Table  dlifile  at  i  r.u.  in  summer  and 
G  T.M.  in  winter ;  Kr,  with  Tin  oid!- 
naire.  Service  paid  extra,  ir.  a-daj  on 
the  first  floor,  3r,  on  the  second  flow. 
Candles 2r.e«h;axoeUaittM;  'QaUg- 
nanl '  tsken  in. 

S.  La  Fidoria,  ca  ths  Alameda,  kept 
by  an  EngUshnua.  Good  rooma,  d»- 
cently  fumishsd ;  charges  moderate ; 
a  table  dliSte. 

S.  D*  OritHtt,  on  the  Alsmeda.  A 
French  establishment ;  table  dliMe  ; 
genervllj  (reqnented  by  ccmmereial 
trarelleis,   and    French  and    Spanish 

LoDQiHoa. —  Filltu. — Few  to  reoom- 
mend  in  tha  town.  The  best  are  ad- 
vertised In  the  local  papers.  Families 
are  recommended  to  risit  the  following 
villas,  which  are  adairablj  sitosted. 


812 


MALAGA. 


comfortably  furnished  (all  things  con- 
sidered), and  let  on  moderate  terms: 
— First,  the  TeaHno,  belonging  to  Sefior 
D.  Edoardo  Delios,  a  wealthy  merchant ; 
second,  JSl  Jteeno,  the  property  of  Sefior 
Gir6 ;  etc  And  at  Torremolinos,  1  hr. 
distant,  that  of  Dr.  Parody— shady  and 
retired,  with  excellent  water,  84r.  to 
60r.  a-day. 

Interpreters  and  Oieeronee. — For  these 
inquire  at  Hotel  de  la  Alameda,  6f.  a- 
day,  2if.  half-a-day. 

Oenaral  Deaoription.— HaUga  lies 
pleasantly  in  a  rich  and  fertfle  plain, 
and  extends  its  strsgjg^ing  rows  of  low, 
whitewashed  houses  around  the  bay, 
which  the  Punta  of  Los  Cantales  bounds 
to  the  £.,  and  the  old  Tower  of  Pimen- 
tel  to  the  W.  It  is  situated  facing  the 
blue  MeditflRanean  and  its  busy  port, 
with  its  back  against  the  range  of  hills 
and  mountains  which  surround  it  to  the 
N.E.,  K.,  and  W.,  and  rise  as  a  pro- 
tecting rampart  against  the  cold  icy 
blasts  from  those  regions. 

To  the  west  and  north-west  of  the  dty 
extends  a  verdant  plateau  some  10  m.  in 
extent,  which  hem  all  the  raried  and 
most  luxuriant  vegetation  of  the  African 
and  American  dimes.  This  Vega  or 
HaHa,  teeming  with  the  sugar-cane,  the 
vine,  the  palm,  the  olire,  the  orange, 
eta,  rirals  the  huertas  of  Valencia  and 
Murda.  Beyond  it  the  ground  loses  its 
plainer  surface,  and  becomes  hilly ;  then 
gradually  ascending,  cerros,  embosom- 
ing channing  valleys,  peaks  predpitous 
and  rocky,  appear,  as  the  first  and 
lower  steps  of  the  vast  Sierrss,  pregnant 
with  rich  metals  and  precious  marbles. 
To  the  W.,  Malaga  iM  traversed  from  N. 
to  8.  by  the  Guadalmedina  (Arabic, 
River-of-the-dty),  a  narrow  and  shallow 
stream,  which  in  winter  is  generally 
crossed  on  foot,  and  beomes  the  usual 
thoroughfiire  for  diligences ;  but,  when 
the  mountain-snows  begin  to  thaw  under 
a  tropical  san,  it  is  converted  into  an 


impetuous  torrent,  carries  away  bridges 
and  houses,  and  inundates  the  lower 
portions  of  the  town  and  environs.  It 
divides  the  dty  about  the  popular  'bar- 
rio dd  perchd  *  (which  is  mentioned  in 
*  Don  Quixote  *)  from  that  of  La  Trini 
dad.  To  the  £.,  on  a  high,  impodng, 
chalky  hill,  rises  the  Moorish  dtadel, 
the  GibraUara  The  best  views  of  the 
city  are  obtained,  first,  frt>m  the  bay  and 
summit  of  the  lighthouse ;  second,  fron. 
the  Granada  road.  The  interior  of  thft 
dty  we  can  divide  into  the  older  and 
newer  portions.  We  must  notice  in  the 
former,  which  ocouj^es  the  higher  part, 
and  lies  more  away  from  the  sea,  the 
sombre,  winding,  narrow  streets,  thr^ 
few  and  irregular  plazas ;  the  low,  dark 
houses^  with  but  few  windows.  In  th«* 
newer  and  modem  portion,  which  ex 
tends  towards  the  sea,  the  houses  an; 
high,  gay,  well  lighted,  the  streets  wide, 
especially  those  of  Ia  Victoria,  Oarre 
teria.  Alamos,  Carmen,  etc,  and  the 
Alameda,  which  is  a  broad  and  hand- 
some street,  with  a  promenade  and  treef> 
in  the  centre.  Most  of  this  portion  waf 
covered  by  the  sea  during  tiie  Moorish 
rule,  and  caraveb  and  fduccaa  anchored 
dose  to  the  Alameda  Hotel,  at  Puerts 
dd  Mar.  The  prindpal  squares  are— 
Plasa  de  la  Constitucion,  whore  several 
of  the  prindpal  morchanta  live  ;  dc 
Iliego,  in  centre  of  which  rises  a  duni8> 
monument  in  memory  of  General  Tor* 
rijos  and  his  friends,  who  were  per- 
fidiously put  to  death  on  the  Plaza  del 
Carmen,  in  1881,  for  their  liberalism. 

Malaga  is  a  very  prosperous  trading 
port — the  exports  being  considerable, 
and  augmenting  yearly  (see  Andaiuaia), 
There  is  little  or  no  art,  and  the  pasdng 
tourist  may  see  everything  in  one  day. 
As  in  every  commercial  dty,  whether 
here  or  elsewhere,  there  is  but  little 
sodety,  though  wealth  abounds.  The 
Malaguefias  are  considered  to  bs  tbs 
prettiest  women  in  all  Spain,  and  th« 


MAMQA. 


313 


liTing exprenion  of  'gracia'  md  their 
irato  mo«t  agreeabl&  The  erening 
lounge  on  the  Alameda,  the  tertolia  in 
the  box  at  the  theatre^  and  high  mass  at 
the  cathedral,  aeem  to  be  the  only  ooca- 
donfl  of  reonion  here. 

HiaroRiiUL  NonoB. — Malaga  was 
one  of  the  early  Phoenioian  faetoriee  in 
Spain  ('  Malaca  magia  ad  Pnnic«  for- 
mam  aooedit' — Sirabo),  and  derirea  its 
name  from  the  PhGonidan  word  'to  salt, ' 
Malae,  which  in  all  Semitioal  languages 
means  the  same,  and  in  Arab  is  written 
'  Malaha ;'  the  salt  fish  being  the  sta^e 
trade  of  Bfalaga  as  well  as  of  Cadii^  etc ; 
and  Strabo  mentions  it,  saying,  '  Mol- 
tumque  ibi  conficitor  salsamentL'  Scipio 
raised  it  to  a  mnnicipiom,  and  it  be- 
came an  ally  of  Rome,  ('  Malaca  foade- 
ratomm.' — Plwy),  Of  the  Ph<Bnician 
period  there  are  a  few  coins  that  torn 
up  now  and  then-;  of  the  Romans,  two 
interesting  bronze  slabs,  with  fragments 
of  the  municipal  laws  of  Malaga  and 
Salpense,  under  Domitian,  and  now  the 
property  of  Marqu6s  de  Casa  Loring. 
It  was  of  no  great  importance  under  the 
Visigoths,  who  nerertheless  raised  it  to 
a  bishop's  see. 

Malaga  was  taken  in  710  by  the  Ber- 
bery under  Tarik ;  but  when  the  land 
was  distributed  at  the  arriyal  of  the 
Arab  proper  tribes,  this  r^on,  or  rayyl^ 
fell  to  the  lot  of  the  Chund  Alh6rdan, 
or  tribes  of  the  Jordan.  It  became  from 
the  first  a  prosperous  seaport,  and,  from 
its  situation,  soil,  dimate,  proximity  to 
Africa,  etc,  was  always  fkyoured  and 
loredbytheMoor.  The  Arab  historians 
were  nerer  weary  in  their  praises  of  its 
beautiful  dimate,  and  the  bounties  of 
its  generous  soil.  Al-Makkari  men- 
tions its  fruits,  its  exquisite  &reta#,  tin 
Al-Malaki,  which,  he  says,  were  sent  to 
India  and  China,  for  the  like  were  not 
to  be  seen  elsewhere 

«M«kga,*nytEl  IdrU,  'aamott  beatitUnl 
ctey,  diMfily  peopled,  hay,  «nd  mort  ejcceflciit 


Its  mericeCe  are  nnich  firequtoted ;  its  tnde  n 
inipoTtsjit,  end  its  resoorces  minwrous.  Ibu 
Bethttlej  who  visited  it  in  1630^  praises  its  deK- 
aoos  firuit  ^■^  I  nave  seen  eipit  pounds  of  giapes 
sold  in  its  market  for  a  dtsfaem  (aboot  bropenoe)L 
Its  Mmsy  (Murdan)  pomegianates  are  lake 
rabies,  and  unequalled  in  the  whole  worid. 
Beautiful  gik  porcelain  b  made  at  Malaga,  and 
ejiported  to  the  furthest  regions  of  the  earth. 
Its  mosque  is  laige  and  time*lioooured ;  its 
patios  have  no  rinJs  in  beauty,  and  are  riiaded 
by  groves  of  oranges  of  wonderful  beauty.'  And 
he  adds  that  he  saw  at  the  door  a  Talhlb,  or 
preacher,  sitting  amid  his  Al&ki,  and  ooUectiag 
money  firom  the  passer»-by  to  make  up  the  ran- 
som of  some  Moors  whom  a  Csstilian  fleet  had 
captured  on  the  shoces  of  La  Fuengirola. 

The  wine  produced  here  was  in  their 
time  as  well  or  better  appreciated  than 
it  is  now,  and  the  Xardb  AUMaiaki, 
thou^  wine  was  prohibited  by  Ma- 
homet, was,  probably  for  that  Tery  rea- 
son, proTerbially  delicious.  Al-Makkari 
tells  a  story  of  a  dying  Moor,  whom  the 
Alfaki  was  entreating  to  pray  to  Qod  ; 
oi\  which  he  exclaimed,  '  O  Lord  I  of  all 
things  which  Thou  hast  in  paradise,  I 
only  ask  for  two :  grant  me  to  drink 
this  Malaga  Xarib,  and  the  ZebiU  of 
Serille' (sort  of  muscatel). 

This  writer  also  mentioas  the  magntfioent 
stufls,  hoUks,  made  here  for  dress,  and  on  whidi 
were  embroidered  portraits  of  celdvatedkhalifs, 
etc.  IbonJ-Jathib  caUs  it  'the  centre  pearl 
(that  placed  in  the  middle  of  a  neddace) ;  aland 
of  paradise  ;  polar  star :  diadem  of  the  moon ; 
forehead  of  a  bewitching  beauty  unveiled  ;*  etc 
etc  What  Mabiga  was  under  the  Moors  in  the 
middle  of  the  15U1  century,  nmy  be  gathered 
fixmi  the  interesting  'Cronica  de  D.  Pedro  NOo, 
Coode  de  Buelna,'  of  which  there  is  agoodedi- 
tiao  of  178*,  Bladrid,  Imprenta  de  Sandm. 

The  importance  of  Malaga  began  espe- 
cially about  the  middle  of  the  10th 
century,  when  the  residence  of  the  Wall 
of  Rayia  was  removed  here  from  Archi- 
dona,  whence  the  name  of  the  capital  of 
Rayya,  Medina  Rayya,  is  often  found 
in  Arab  writers  of  that  period.  In  the 
11th  century  it  became  the  court  of  the 
Emirs  of  the  Idrinte  dynasty,  which 
extended  its  rule  to  CordoTa,  but  lasted 


3U 


MALAGA—CATHEDRAL. 


only  twenty  yetn.  Snbseqnently  it 
bectme  dependent  of  Fez  and  Morocco, 
then  of  Granada ;  was  the  centre  of 
•ereral  great  rebelliona  and  reeiatanoe^ 
and,  after  a  dreadful  siege^  Ferdinand 
and  Catherine  entered  it,  Augnat  18, 
1487,  breaking  erery  pledge,  fixing 
thirty  dollars  a-head  as  a  ransom  for  the 
population,  and,  on  their  inability  to 
pay,  condemning  them  all  to  slayery, 
confiscation,  and  the  fSiggot 

ThoM  whom  U  may  interest  to  know  the  elate 
of  Malaga  at  that  period,  may  read  the  Chroo- 
Idet  of  El  Oara  de  loe  Pakdos  ('Cronica  de 
loe  Reyee  QitoKcoi'),  which  have  been  recently 
pabKthed  at  Grenada,  besidee  thoie  of  Heman 
Perei  del  Pii%ar,  and  the  Catalan  LUtr&'t  Let- 
ters This  latter  was  sent  toMahfa  by  the 
people  of  the  Balearic  Islands  to  settle  some 
Aftirs  connected  with  them,  and  in  the  character 
ofemray  to  the  Catholic  kings.  According  to 
him,  the  great  si|^  then  were  the  Jewry,  the 
Cssa  de  los  Geooveses  (a  palace  built  by  Gcno- 
ese  merchantsX  the  Tarasanas  or  Arsenal,  etc  ; 
lif  mosque  whidi  Llitrft  calls  'molt  gentil  ooea,* 
was  half  the  siae  of  that  at  Cordova,  deoorsted 
with  Bsarble  and  Jasper  pillars,  and  ornamented 
like  a  filigree  jewel  Isabella,  after  it  was  puri- 
fied,  made  to  it  a  present  of  a  bit  of  the  true 
cross,  and  two  beQs  out  of  thirty  whidi  she  car- 
ried with  her,  to  distribute  among  the  conquered 
dties.  The  patio  was  most  beautiful,  etc.,  the 
walls  of  the  dty  massiTe,  the  streets  narrow  and 
sombre,  and  there  were  no  squares,  the  outside 
of  houses  was  plain  and  melancholy,  but  the  In- 
tetior  rooms,  patios,  decorated  with  paintings, 
marbles,  etc 

The  decadence  of  the  town  now  began. 
Malaga  dwindled  into  a  third-rate  pro- 
Tindaldty.  In  1810  it  was  easily  taken 
by  Sebastiani,  who  exacted  12,000, OOOr. 
from  the  terror-stricken  inhabitants. 
Malaga  has  been  the  birthplace  of 
sereral  eminent  Arab  writerih— of  the 
natm«list  Abn-BeithAr,  and  of  Moh. 
Ben  Kassim;  also  of  great  Moorish 
doctors,  chess-players,  etc.,  and  of  the 
learned  Alderetes,  one  of  whom,  Ber- 
nardo, wrote  the  '  Origen  de  la  Lengna 
Outellana,'  Some,  1606,  4to.;  Pedro 
Montnano,  the  nnmismatio  Yelasqnei 
de  Velasco^  etc 


Sights:— Oa^Mrai;  IgUtia   d$  la 
FiUoHa,  OUbralfaro,  AttaroMOHUU. 

CstldrtL— Rises  on  the  site  of  the 
former  mosqne,  which  was  conrerted 
into  a  Gothic  church,  of  which  nothing 
remains  saye  the  portal  of  the  Sagrario^ 
which  belongs  to  the  decline  of  Gothic 
architectore,  and  is  decorated  with 
canopied  saints,  foliage,  and  a  profosion 
of  Moro-Gothio  details.  The  present 
Grsco-Ronum  edifice  was  designed, 
according  to  most  writers,  by  Diego  de 
Snoe;  the  plans  being  presented  to  and 
approTed  by  the  chapter  in  1628.  The 
works  were  begun  immediately,  hot  had 
to  be  interrupted  from  want  of  ftinds 
and  royal  patronage.  It  was  partly 
destroyed  in  1680  by  an  earthquake, 
and  the  works,  resumed  in  1719  (not  a 
faTourable  epoch  for  art),  were,  after 
sereral  modifications,  interrupted  once 
more  in  1766,  and  have  never  been 
completed.  Tlins  an  edifice,  begun  on 
a  laige  scsle,  after  excellent  designs^ 
has  been  gradnally  disfigured,  and  pre- 
sents now  an  unmeaning  pile^  charac- 
terised by  all  the  defects  of  the  pseudo- 
classical  school  at  the  worst  periods. 
The  length  of  it  is  about  874  ft.,  the 
breadth  248  ft.,  and  the  height  182  ft. 
There  are  seren  entrances.  The  prin- 
cipal fafade  is  to  the  K.  and  in  an 
irregular  square.  The  entrance  consists 
of  three  fine  arches  resting  on  Corinthian 
pillars;  the  upper  portion  or  stage 
belongs  to  the  Composite  order,  and  is 
flanked  by  only  one  tower,  the  other 
not  being  completed.  This  tower  is 
light,  of  good  proportions,  but  the  effect 
\m  msrred  by  pilasters,  balconies,  balus- 
trades, simulated  openings,  etc  The 
height  is  860  ft.  The  view  from  it  is 
glorious,  but  the  sight  of  the  cathedral 
itself  is  most  efiectiye  and  pleasing  from 
a  distance^  owing  to  the  whiteness  of 
the  stone,  the  length  of  the  edifice,  and 
the  quaint  small  cupolas  of  the  root 

/nietiffr.— Three  nares  divided   by 


MALAGA — CATHEDBAL. 


315 


Coiinihian-groaped  fluted  pillan  placed 
back  to  back  upon  circular,  heavy,  and 
disproportionate  pedestala  The  capi- 
tals are  alio  incongruoua,  and  their 
entablature  too  lai;^  The  arches  of 
the  roof  do  not.  spring  directly  from 
these  pillars,  but  rest  on  columns  in 
the  cornice.  It  is  spacious  and  lofty, 
but  too  much  lighted  up ;  of  monoton- 
ous symmetry  between  the  parts^  cold 
and  unmeaning.  The  High  Chapel  was 
designed  by  Alfonso  Cano.  The  altar  is 
modem  and  in  bad  taste.  The  fire 
frescoes  of  the  Passion  are  by  Cesar  of 
Arbada,  1680.  Tlie  parement  Is  of 
white  and  blue  marbles,  and  the  roof 
is  decorated  with  gilt  and  painted 
rosettes.  The  transept  portals  are 
elegant  The  cAotr  dates  1692-1631, 
and  is  the  work  of  Yergara  the  younger, 
to  whom  Dias  de  Pidados  succeeded. 
The  stalls  were  designed  by  Luis  Ortiz 
and  the  Italian  sculptor  Giuseppe 
Michael,  1668.  Forty  statues  of  saints, 
which  were  then  wanting,  were  confided 
to  Pedro  de  Mena.  The  earring  is  of 
no  great  merit ;  the  wood  employed  is 
mahogany,- cedar,  etc.  The  statues  are 
the  best  portion,  and  Cano's  taste  is 
here  rerealed  by  his  pupQ  Mena.  The 
chapels  are  indifferent,  and  contain  few 
pictures. 

picture  of  Our  Lady  of  the  Rosary,  is 
by  Alfonso  Oano.  St  Dominik  and 
St  Francis,  at  the  foot  of  the  Virgin, 
are  excellently  drawn.  The  fnorUdaaa 
on  the  Virgin's  face,  the  delicate  hand- 
ling of  the  draperies,  are  all  to  be 
noticed;  but  the  colouring  is  not  so 
goodasusuaL 

OapOla  de  la  ComeepcUm.  —  This 
'mystery'  is  represented  in  a  patn^ng 
by  Mateo  Cereso. 

OapCUa  de  toe  Bei/es, — ^A  holy  image 
which  used  to  bs  carried  by  the  Catho- 
lic kin^  in  their  campaigns ;  on  right 
•^  -Msrtraits,  both  copies. 


CapiUa  de  San  Franeueo. — ^Virgin 
and  Dead  Christ,  ascribed,  erroneously 
we  think,  to  Morales. 

AUar  del  Traeeoro, — It  is  of  Jasper. 
The  image  of  the  Viigin  is  by  Adam, 
whose  St  Michael  at  the  Cathedral  of 
Granada  is  better,  and  his  masterpiece. 
The  paintings  of  Sta.  Agneda  and  Sta. 
Cecilia  are  both  ascribed  to  Murillo  (f). 

In  the  square  on  the  rig^t  of  cathe- 
dral is  the  indifferent  Bidiop's  Palace, 
and  on  the  other  side  the  elegant  Poerta 
del  Sagrario. 

Churthqf  BlCridode  LaVidoria,-^ 
On  the  site  of  the  Catholic  king'a  tent, 
which  was  put  up  during  the  s^ge  <^ 
1487.  The  miserable,  whitewashed, 
small  San  Roque  close  by  was  the  first 
Christian  edifice  erected  here  by  Fer- 
dinand and  Isabella.  The  image,  hi^y 
revered,  was  removed  fh>m  it  when  the 
present  larger  church  was  built  *nd 
placed  on  the  high  altar  within  a  small 
circular  churrigueresque  chapel,  where, 
by  means  of  curtains,  etc,  the  li^^t  is 
so  managed  as  to  produce  a  soft,  porpk^ 
vapoury  atmosphere.  The  image  was 
brought  here  by  the  Catholic  kings. 
The  jewels  it  once  possessed  became  a 
prey  in  Sebastiani's  hands,  who  did  not 
forget  the  silver  candelabra,  etc.  To 
the  right  of  altar  is  Ferdinand's  pendon 
or  royal  standard,  and  to  the  left  the 
one  taken  from  the  Moors.  The  former, 
when  the  city  surrendered,  was  hoisted 
in  the  alcasaba  or  castle  on  the  Tone 
del  Homenaga  There  are  a  good  stair- 
case and  some  tombs  of  the  Buenavista 
family. 

The  minor  churches  are  all  nn» 
interesting;  as,  after  the  conquest,  the 
king's  favour  was  withdrawn  fhmi  it ; 
and  it  was  deserted  alike  by  wealthy 
Moors  and  the  nobility;  and  merchants 
were  even  reluctant  to  inhabit  this 
desolate  city,  notwithstanding  the 
fueros  granted,  the  privileges  offered 
to  those  who  would  colonise  its  aban- 


316 


MALAGA. 


doned  hueita,  «nd  the  offers  to  the 
Genoese  to  be  restored  their  bsrrio,  etc 
Santiago  and  Sto.  Domingo,  near  the 
river,  are  indifferent  That  of  Santos 
Martires  contains  some  good  painted 
sculptare  representing  Apostles,  San- 
tiago, and  San  Jnan,  date  1490. 

Oibralfaro.— The  ascent  is  easy,  and 
the  view  from  the  height  extensive  and 
fine.  The  alcazaba  was  united  by  the 
Araba  to  Gibralfaro,  and  the  city  was 
hooped  in  within  a  quadruple  circle  of 
walls.  To  K.  is  still  the  former  Torre 
delYigia,  the  watch-tower,  theAtalaya; 
and  to  S.  the  usual  Moorish  La  Vela, 
on  which  D.  Pedro  de  Toledo  placed  his 
Silver  Cross  on  the  day  of  the  surrender 
of  the  city  by  the  Moors.  The  two 
steep  ascents  lead  both  to  the  deeply- 
recessed  Puerta  de  Hierro,  whose  Arab 
ogival  and  horseshoe  arches  observe,  as 
well  as  the  Roman  vestiges  about  the 
columns,  and  mutilated  Corinthian 
capitals ;  the  two  other  gates — Arco  de 
f^risto  and  Cuartos  de  Granada — are  not 
as  interesting.  The  Moorish  castle 
dates  1279 ;  the  lower  portion  or  alca- 
laba  was  anterior  to  the  Moorish  period, 
and  its  foundations  as  well  as  those  of 
$he  walls  are  probably  Phoenician.  It  is 
connected  with  the  Gibralfaro  (from 
gebeif  rock ;  /euro  the  Greek  ybrot,  light- 
house), which,  an  old  Phoenician  castle, 
was  repaired  bj  Mohammed  of  Granada, 
who  reigned  1273  to  1302 ;  but  part  of 
which  had  been  raised  end  of  11th  cen- 
tury by  lbn-Habus-£l-Zinhachi  N.B, 
— It  can  be  visited  at  12  o'clock  daOy, 
by  sending  card  to  gobemador  of  the 
alcazaba.  The  possession  of  this 
neglected,  ill-defended,  but  strong  posi- 
tion, is  the  key  of  Malaga  and  the  Port, 
as  the  possession  of  both  were  in  Fer- 
dinand's time  the  key  to  Gran^da. 

Atarammoi  {Arabiei,  Dhar  Sanaa, 
literally  workhouse,  whence  the  Spanish 
dUtmna  and  ofMiiaQ.— These  were  the 
Moorish  dockyards,  once  of  great  extent 


and  importance;  their  situation  in  s 
back  street  is  a  sufficient  proof  of  the 
receding  of  the  sea.  The  only  remains 
consist  of  an  el«»gant  horseshoe  arch 
imbedded  in  the  wall,  with  two  shields 
on  the  sides,  and  the  motto  of  the 
Kaserite  Eraira^  'tfod  alone  is  the 
Conqueror.' 

Ltbrariet.  —The  Episcopal  Biblioteca 
consists  of  6000  vols^,  and  was  estab- 
lished under  Charles  IIL  The  old 
catalogue  dates  1830.  They  have  been 
abandoned  a  good  deal  to  real  book- 
worms, and  are  full  of  wise  but  uncom- 
fortable dust  It  is  rich  in  Bible  lite- 
rature^ Fathers  of  the  Church,  Councils ; 
a  fine  MS.  missal  of  13th  century,  and 
a  few  MSS.  mostly  about  the  history  of 
this  city.  In  the  scanty  and  still  more 
modem  library  of  the  Institnto  Pro- 
vincial there  is  a  valuablo  work  on 
botany,  all  MSS.,  and  with  a  good  hw- 
bary.  The  Marq.  of  Casa  Loring  has 
some  antiquities,  and  a  fine  collection 
of  books  and  MSS.  In  that  of  Los 
Herederos  of  Sr.  Oliver  inquire  for  the 
collection  of  early  chronicles  and  Elze- 
virian editions. 

Pidurea, — Private  galleries  do  not 
exist  There  are,  however,  soine  good 
pictures  at  D.  Juan  Ginte',  Marq.  of 
Casa  Loring,  Sr.  Don  Miguel  Crooke 
(pronounced  crow-quay),  at  the  Eng- 
lish Consul's,  etc 

Promenades,  Theatres,  eta — The 
only  fashionable  paseo  is  the  Alameda. 
It  is  situated  S.  of  the  town,  is  long  and 
spacious,  and  with  an  elegant  fountain 
at  one  extremity,  which  was  ordered  at 
Genoa  by  Charles  Y.  for  his  palace  ol 
Granada,  was  taken,  on  board  the 
Spanish  vessel  which  was  conveying  it, 
by  Barbarossa,  and  recovered  by  D.  Ber- 
nardino de  Mendoza,  General  de  Galeraa. 
It  consists  of  two  tazzas,  and  Is  most 
effective,  being  decorated  with  marbl<» 
oupids,  sirens,  nymphs,  etc,  dressed  it 
a  light  fig-leif  costume  most  appro 


MAMOA. 


317 


imate  to  Malaga  dimate.  On  the  Ala- 
meda the  military  band  plays  on 
SondayB  and  Thnradays,  in  winter  from 
8  to  6 ;  in  rammer  late  in  the  evening. 
We  alao  recommend  the  Paseo  del 
Camino  Nuero,  from  the  church  of  La 
Victoria,  along  the  Gibralfaro  and  sea, 
and  Velez-Midaga  road  to  £1  Palo^ 
part  of  it  is  called  Paseo  de  Reding. 
That  of  Olletas  or  Capnchinos  is  also 
pleasant,  to  La  Caleta,  a  dried-np  arroyo 
near  the  sea,  20  min.  drive,  and  the  re- 
sort of  the  lower  classes  on  holidays — 
dancing,  sipping  lagrimas  wine,  playing 
hide-and-sMk  behind  the  tall  higo- 
chnmbos,  eating  the  exquisite  boqne- 
rones,  before  which  Greenwich  white- 
bait pales.  Drive  also  on  the.  Camino 
de  Antequera — ^to  Chnrriana,  where  all 
the  bread  consumed  in  the  city  is 
baked ;  8  hrs.  drive  there  and  back ; 
about  lOOr.  in  a  two-horse  cal6che. 
Another  drive  1)  hr.,  by  Plaza  de  Tor- 
rgos,  Ia  Victoria,  Fuente  de  la  Maria 
(exoellent  drinking  water),  La  Caleta, 
Cortina  del  Muelle,  etc 

The  TetUro  PHncipal  and  that  of 
Prt/ndpe  AlfcmMo  are  indifferently  built ; 
they  are  well  frequented. 

The  PloM  de  Toroe  is  laige,  and  oan 
hold  10,000  spectators ;  bat  the  corridas 
are  seldom  good. 

FetHvaU.'^TYit  principal  festivals 
are  Oamivalf  which  is  very  gay  here  in 
the  streets  and  indoors,  when  balls  are 
given  at  the  Casino,  and  masquerades 
in  some  houses.  Christmas  Eve  (la 
noehs  huena)  is  noisy  bat  tiaw;  tiie 
markets  may  be  visited  then,  and  Puerta 
del  Mar,  where  piles  of  oranges,  sweet 
lemons,  watery  limas,  etc.,  are  most 
tempting ;  very  picturesque.  The 
churches  at  night  are  then  splendidly 
illuminated. 

Post  Office. — Calle  de  Casapalma. 
Stamps,  for  England,  one  of  2r.  for  a 
simple  letter;  for  certified  letters,  a 
stamp  of  4r.  beside  the  2r.  stamp.    For  I 


9 

France,  12c  stamp ;  certified  letter,  8r. 
stamp.  For  Spain,  a  stamp  of  2c  For 
Belgium,  Germany,  Italy,  no  t^ffrm^ 
ehisgfnent  A  letter  takes :  to  London, 
6  days ;  to  Paris,  6  days ;  to  Madrid,  2 
days.  Hours  of  delivery,  2  p.m.,  and 
leaves  at  7  A,u,  Open  finom  8  jlu,  to 
12  N.,  and  from  2  p.m.  to  7  P.M. 

TeUgraph,^l!o  Paris,  51r.  90c ;  to 
London,  61r.  28c  for  twenty  words ;  it 
is  open  day  and  night  at  all  houn. 
At  ^e  Aduana  or  Custom  House 

C(m$ula,^H.BM.,  W.  Penrose  Mark, 
Calle  de  Peligros  No.  21.  Fiimce,  M. 
Ckvet,  U.  States,  Mr.  John  Smith, 
Panaderos  No.  5. 

Banktrs. — Srs.  Heredia,  on  the  Ala- 
meda; Orueta,  Cortina  del  Muelle; 
Larios,  on  the  Alameda.  • 

Cfhwxh  cf  JBngland  Chaplainqf, — 
Chaplain,  Rev.  Matthew  Powley,  M.A. 
Morning  service  every  Sunday  at  11 
A.M. ;  afternoon  servioe  at  4  p.m.  Ser- 
vice at  the  Consulate  House  The 
PnUatami  Cemetery  was  established  by 
Mr.  W.  Mark,  RB.M.'s  Consul  at  Ma- 
laga, father  of  the  actual  consul,  in 
1830.  It  is  well  worth  a  visit,  and  the 
view  from  it  is  glorious. 

EnglUh  Doetor.^Dr,  Shortliff,  a  well- 
recommended  Engjlish  physician,  who 
has  resided  here  for  many  years,  and  is 
thoroughly  acquainted  with  the  climate, 
etc  Herr  Bunsen,  German  physician. 
Prolongo,  apothecary,  Paaige  de  Larios. 
Giralde  and  Mont^  two  good  Spanish 
doctors;  the  first  speaks  French.  $2 
fee  to  doctors  at  the  hotel,  and  one  at 
their  own  house 

a>ire0-A<mM.— Caf6  Suizo»  Calle  de 
Campaftia. 

Caeino, — Introduction  by  one's  bank- 
er or  consul,  for  seven  days  or  a  fort* 
night,  EngUah  and  French  papers, 
Cortina  del  Muella. 

Baths. — Sea-bathing  from  June  to 
September,  opposite  the  Custom  House, 
two  establishments — De  Diana,  and  Ls 


918 


bCnlk.    BctbatAHvo'iL    Ffaoaek 

Pinuhar  ITflfffWfr  tf  Su  Ottmirw. 

FUL^Botnammm  Qikt 

jumpitm,  agnjetataid 

teU  d*  lUl^i^  «veeC  poCiftoei^  nini% 

and  aliiioiid%  and  aa^ff-enM.    ^gt, 

edlad  bigot  chualwi^  netilmi  (100 

torir,) 

IT^MH^Mali^i  ii  cddnted  for  ha 
exqidiHa  t^M  a  fayr^Moa  (taan  liter- 
ally),  not  unlike  the  Italian  ptodnee  of 
that  nanM^  Zackryma  CkritH;  dry 
ICaJaija  ia  alao  ezeeUent  and  wholaaoBie ; 
npwajrda'of  50,000  pipea  are  annnallj 
prodneed;  the  principal  market!  are 
United  Statea  and  a  America.  Good 
imitationa  of  Corafao^  knimmt^M^  ^nd 
other  liqoeon  are  made  and  exported. 
See  Oeneial  Information  :  JFiiuB. 

tFitu-martkamii. — Don  Antonio  Gam- 
po;   Meae.   Loring;    Larioa. 
merehanU, — Clemena  and  Bi 


•fe.,  fipitnatiag  types  fdecMd  aaoiv  the 
peeiintry,  bolUlfhteny  etc,  ere  admirably 
•Mcntcd  hete,  end  era  celebrated  eU  over  Speia. 
Uoa,  Celle  Sta.  Lode,  an  artiet,  Joe<  Ctabefo, 
Paeeage  de  Heradia,  $t6,  a  good  larfe  figura, 

Bo^kmlitr.—Uor^  Puefta  del  liar,  smm 
obliffinf  and  weU-iolbnaed.  Haa  a  good  lot 
of  Fraach  and  EogUeh  books,  etc,  goldcs, 
aMps,  and  general  stationery. 

Litk0trmph»  amd  FrltUi.^^wmmk  de  Hera- 
dia. 

//itiMnmrr.— Saacho,  Plaa  de  la  Coostitii- 

rtfZ/pr.^Vara,  Plata  Coostltudon. 
IK«/«AM«4yr.— Schosiner,  Calle  Graoada. 
(;i>fvr.— CoetiUa,  Cklle  Granada. 

Boat  7araa. — From  ateamcr  to  land, 
2r.  a  peraon,  and  2r.  a  ooUil  Fkom  boat 
to  hotel  or  Cuatom  Hooae,  6r. ;  a  trank, 
Sr. ;  a  bat-box,  and  promenade^  6r. 


Si^U 


Oab  ]*araa.— ITom^  to  NighJL 


eSeata,coane 
„       by  the  noor 


4  SeatSb  eoune 
M        by  the  hour 


4»- 
•r. 

6r. 

lor. 


At 
Hi 


isr.  an  honr;  fs  n^lqr;   by  the 


^4fiL— AtMinlaennd  PtoA^i^ 
Good 


The  Port. — lYwIc— The  port  ii  ipa- 
dooa.  and  aecore,  ahdtered  Iran  all 
dangerooa  winda  aave  that  from  the  E., 
which,  when  it  blowa  with  Tioleno«^ 
endangera  the  amaller  craft.  The  mole 
on  die  eaatflm  aide  ia  fine,  and  waa 
built  in  1588 ;  it  ia  2100  ft.  in  length, 
and  at  the  eztremitj  atuida  a  new  li^t- 
bonae^  the  lif^t  of  which  rerolTea 
once  ererj  minute ;  a  ahoal  which  ia 
growing  np  round  the  mole-bead  woold 
rapidly  and  aerionaly  diminish  the  depth 
of  water  throngboot  the  barboor,  were 
it  not  for  the  dredging-macbine  which 
Sm  oontinnallj  employed  in  clearing  it 
out  The  depth  at  the  entrance  and 
within  yariea  from  25  ft.  to  80  ft.,  and 
nearer  to  the  quays,  from  8  ft.  to  10  ft. 
only.  The  harbour  Sm  apadoua  enough 
to  accommodate  upwarda  of  450  mer- 
chant abipa,  and  the  fleeta  of  Carthage 
and  tboee  of  Rome  anchored  here  for 
repaira  and  proriaiona.  The  trade  of 
Malaga  la  to  what  it  might  be  in  the 
proportion  of  0  :  1000.  For*  thia  and 
the  lurrounding  pronncei  literally  orer- 
flow  with  wine^  oil,  etc,  and  mi^t  be 
tnmed  into  the  moat  flouriahing  cotton- 
growing  and  augar-prodncing  countriea 
in  the  world;  for  it  truly  ^h  the  cqntal 


ICALAQA. 


319 


of  tropical  Europe^  and  is,  aa  tJia  poets 

Malafi,  tebechbeni. 
La  dd  etenwl  primavera. 
La  que  bafta  duke  d  mar 
Entre  jaamia  y  acahar. 

The  wine  trade  amounts  nearly  to 
some  1,500,000  arrobas ;  dry  raisins  to 
1,000,000  arrobas ;  lemons  and  oranges 
to  16,000,000  arrobas  ;  282,628  arrobas 
of  figs ;  almonds  and  other  fruit  aro 
eztensiTelj  exported. 

Of  the  riches  in  froit-prodnce  the 
traveller  will  easilj  convinoe  himself  if 
he  ia  at  Malaga  about  the  end  of  August 
to  the  middle  of  December,  when  the 
Mole  and  the  Yeles  Boad  present  a  most 
norel  and  picturesque  sight  The 
vintage  is  then  over,  and  the  fruit  pQed 
up  and  placed  in  boxes  for  shipment 
Tiken  ate  several  numufrotoiies  in  full 
activity — sugar-refineries,  cotton-mills, 
besides  iron-foundries,  soap-works,  eto. 

Bzoursions  may  be  made  to  Torre- 
molinos;  to  £1  Betiro,  a  fine  estate  of 
Cottde  de  Alcdea ;  for  permit  apply  to 
his  sgent,  Seftor  Orueta.  The  gardens 
aro  protty,  somewhat  n^lected,  and  the 
principal  pictures  formerly  hero  re- 
moved to  his  palace  at  Madrid. 

It  is  to  be  regretted  that  the  energies 
of  this  province  aro  not  turned  from 
politics  and  empUomania  into  the  moro 
satisfactory  and  lucrative  mercantile 
andindustrialprofessionsL  The  botany 
and  geology  would  then  be  better 
known,  and  their  hidden  treasures 
brought  to  light  The  hills  abound  in 
metals,  marbles,  admirable  in  colour, 
fineness  of  grain,  etc  ;  in  mineral 
springs  of  very  great  efficiency,  of 
which  Alhama  and  Carratraca  are 
examples ;  of  streams  and  waterfalls 
that  would  work  mills  and  factories. 
We  refer  readers  for  moro  details  on  the 
sgriculturo  of  this  province  to  General 
Information :  AgrieuUurB^-otdy  adding 
that,  among  others,  the  ftneaa,  or  estotes 


of  La  Conception  and  San  Jos^  be- 
longing to  Marqu^  de  Casa  Loring;  an 
among  those  best  worth  a  visit  The 
fish  is  excellent,  and  there  aro  moro  than 
ninety  sorts;  the  best  are  the  boquerones. 
The  geological  exploration  of  this 
province  has  yet  to  be  mad&  and  will 
amply  repay  time  and  trouDl&  Geo- 
logisto  will  not  fail  to  visit  the  un- 
trodden stslaotital  caverns^  which  are 
very  numerous  here.  The  caverns  of 
Los  Gantales,  Ardales,  and  T^ares  are 
especially  worth  visiting.  Yvdt  also 
the  large  pleocene  superior  tertiary  ma- 
rine deposit  between  Oerro  de  San 
Anton  and  Torro  de  San  Telmo^  E.  of 
Malaga,  and  abounding  in  fossil  shelly 
Ostreof,  OardU  Jtsdem,  etc  These  ter- 
tiary beds  oonstituto  the  soil  on  which 
the  city  stands. 

A  vertical  tectioa  of  the  Jiorrv  quarries  of 
Lot  Tejares  presents  a  layer  of  vegetable  soil 
some  s  to3  yards  deep;  and  bdow  It  one  ci 
clayey  sand,  6  to  8  yards  in  depth.  Thert  are 
found  beds  of  yellow  clay  8  to  9  yards  tludc, 
under  a  layer  of  fossil  shells,  and  under  it  one 
of  bhie  clay,  used  here  to  make  bricks  and 
common  earthenware.  One  species  of  i^«iySQa, 
one  of  Cmiam$u,  two  DtttUtiii,  five  Pteimt, 
two  Ostrtmt  and  one  PUtma,  were  found  by  Sr. 
Prolongo,  on  a  slight  investigatioo  he  made 
some  yean  ago  with  M.  VemeuiL  Around 
Malaga  the  mineiab  found  am'  cirhoaiffroui 
and  sandy  quarts,  and  the  rommnn  one  amid 
clayey  slate,  and  mica,  and  ligntto  in  the  Arroyo 
de  loe  Angdes  and  Cerro  Coronada  Compart 
limestone  is  found  in  the  upper  poitioos  of  bbosc 
ofthe  soil  around  the  dty.  Silioeous  and  red 
compact  Umestooe,  "*«»ed  with  fossils,  is  also 
met  on  Gibralfiuo  and  Cerro  de  San  Anton. 
White  pyrite  is  found  00  the  Camino  Nuero  de 
la  Victoria,  and  a  mine  of  it  was  woriced  some 
years  ago  00  the  slopes  of  Cerro  de  San  Cristo- 
bal Copper  psrrite  and  barytine  abound  about 
El  Pafo,  Puente  del  Indio,  Las  Eimitss,  etc 
The  rocks  may  be  thus  classified  . — Red  sand- 
stone, about  the  Ermitas:  slate  and  sdnst; 
the  hiOs  aU  around  principally  consist  of  com- 
pact, cretaceous  limestone.  See,  for  foDer 
detdk,  Book*  ^/Rtfonnet  and  Goieral  \tSat' 
waAovk" CfUfjt  Agriadimrt^  etc 

B0oks  0f  R^itrtnu.^x.  'Cuia  dd  Vtagtro 
en  Malaga,*  by  ViU;  Mdagi  i86i,CaIle  Nneva 
Na  61,  Imprenta  Eq)ahela,  i  vol  with  arts. 


330 


MUBOIA. 


ITmIiiI  to  the  geoeral  touriat,  bat  of  no  inport- 
■nco  for  tho  ttudy  of  the  city,  its  hatocy,  ftoti- 

a.  'Topografia  m^dica  de  U  Gudod  de 
Mahiga,'  by  D.  MartiDet  y  Mootea,  4to,  Ma- 
biga,  1853.  The  best  work  extant  00  the 
cKsnaie,  etc 

y.B.—Vcr  the  geology,  agriculture,  etc. 


of  the  entfaoos  and  ptoTiace,aee  Geaenl  I»> 
fomiatiott :  Gmitgy,  AgriemUtar. 

3.  Mabga  under  the  Aimbs,  and  described 
by  then,  may  he  found  in  '  Dcsciipcieo  del 
Reino  de  Granada,'  by  Simooet;  Madrid, 
Imprenta  Nadooal,  186a  The  'Cora  de 
^)T*t'  PP*  ^9^<>  snd  in  the  same  work,  its 
descripcioo  under  the  Arabs  by  Chrittisn 
^'ntc'**  PP*  >37f  >4>*    Kycdlcnt. 


For  Moroooo,  Mi  T«iigi«n. 
MURCIA  (Kingdom  of). 


GoogrApl^OAl  and  AdmlnlitratlTa 
DiTiflions,  Birers,  etc. — ^Tbe  Reino  de 
Mmda  Is  some  660  square  leagues  in 
extent  It  Is  bounded  to  the  N.  hj  the 
proTince  of  Cuenca  and  Sierra  Mayor 
(which  separates  it  from  Valencia), 
and  part  of  New  CastiUe ;  to  the  W. 
by  Sierra  Morena,  the  proyinces  of 
(Hudad  Real ;  Jaen,  to  the  S.  by  Anda- 
lusia, firom  which  it  is  divided  by  the 
Orillemena  and  Ubeda  range  and  the 
Mediterranean;  and  to  the  £.  by  the 
prorince  of  Alicante  and  the  sea.  It 
has  been  diiided-  into  two  provinces  : 
Hnreia»  capital  Murda,  pop.  882,812, 
and  Albaoete,  capital  Albaoete,  pop. 
206,099  (1861) ;  in  all,  588,911.  Al- 
meria,  AUcante,  eta,  have  token  parts 
of  the  spoils,  when  the  reino  was  torn 
asunder  and  divided,  to  satisfy  the 
French  centralisation  mania.  It  Is  a 
country  of  hiUs,  the  province  of  Murda 
alone  having  some  140  square  leagues 
of  them;  the  highest  are  situated  in  the 
Sierra  de  ^Bspa&a,  and  rise  from  2180  to 
2460  ft.  above  the  sea.  Cape  Palos 
forms  the  end  of  the  long  chain  that 
interseeto  the  reino  and  becomes  part 
of  Sierra  Almagrera,  in  the  province  of 
Abnerla.  On  the  seaboard  tiiese  hills, 
though  considerably  depressed,  still 
rise  Uke  lofty  precipitous  walls.  There 
are  also  extensive  plains,  most  fertile 
vegas,  and  baldios  or  waste  lands,  the 
reino  being  very  thinly  populated 
The  principal  cities  are  Murda,  Alba- 
cete,  Cartagena,  and  Loroa ;  the  prin- 


dpal  river,  Sangonen;  the  prindpal 
jwrti^  Cartagena  and  Almasairon. 

Historx. — In  this  respect  Murda  Is 
devoid  of  great  interest  The  extra- 
ordinary riches  of  ita  mines  soon  at- 
tracted the  attention  of  the  Cartha- 
ginians and  Phcenidans.  Although  at- 
tached to  ita  (}othio  rulers,  Murda  fell 
an  easy  prey  to  the  Moor,  who  con- 
verted it  into  a  garden  of  flowers  and 
fruit,  of  fikt,  plenty,  and  peace.  Muisiidi 
was  therefore  often  simply  called  Bl 
Beaton^  the  garden,*  as  Misr,  in  Egypt, 
with  which  it  was  thought  to  possess 
great  analogy.  About  1286,  when  the 
Khalifato  of  Cordoba,  of  which  it 
formed  part,  was  dismembered,  Murda 
became  an  independent  kingdom,  and 
Aben  Hudiel  ita  first  king.  Division, 
as  usual,  began  to  sap  this  new  throne. 
Christian  alliances  were  sought,  and 
the  wolf  let  into  the  sheepfold.  Murda 
was  annexed  to  Castile  and  repeopled 
by  Alfonso  X.  with  Catalans,  Aragonese, 
and  even  French,  of  whom  there  are 
still  descendants,  whose  origin  Is  easily 
discovered  by  their  names,  however  dis- 
torted (foreign  names  always  are  by 
Spaniards)— BOinton,  Saspir,  Todos 
Santos,  standing  for  Wellington,  Shake- 
peare,  Southampton  ;  and  the  Qerman 
Mfiller,  Kotzebne,  and  Ciithe,  being 
amusingly  pronounced  Mula,  Cos-de- 
buey,  y  Cohete.  This,  however.  Is 
better  than  a  French  servant  whom  we 
once  heard  announcing  'Monsieur  le 
Mattre  de  Posto  de  Bordeaux,'  In  Us« 


MUBOIA. 


321 


of  Poczo  di  Boi^,  and  our  Oalician 
flerrant  at  Biarritz  informing  us  gravely 
that  <E1  Profeta de Bayona,'  the  Prdfet, 
asked  to  see  ns. 

CharacUrt  Dreaa, — The  Horoianot 
are  little  else  than  degenerate  Moon^ 
.who  speak  Spanish.  Sloth  is  their  god; 
to  bask  in  their  sun,  all  their  oocnpa- 
tion  ;  and  to  eat  pimientos,  sleeps  and 
smoke,  their  dearest  enjoyments.  It 
is  something  new,  obsolete,  quite  re- 
frtshing^  as  the  Yankees  hare  it,  to  see 
this  marmot,  ratable  people,  in  the 
second  part  of  the  19th  oentory,  living, 
or  rather  sleeping,  within  some  eighty 
or  ninety  hours  of  Paris,  Turin,  Swit- 
seriand.  Is  it  because  they  are  still 
nearer  to  Africa  and  their  old  Mends 
the  Berbers  ? 

Adam,  nys  a  Spanish  itoty,  asked  leave,  not 
many  years  ago,  to  revistt  the  caith,  teatro  de 
sus  glorias  y  fotigas.  Having  obtained  it,  he 
went  first  to  Germany ;  the  site  of  the  Vater- 
land  studded  widi  universities,  the  roads,  canals, 
bridges,  all  astounded  our  great  forefather,  who 
no  longer  made  out  his  former  land ;  he  went 
on  to  England,  and  lot  railways,  engines  hissing 
in  every  direction,  ports  with  forests  of  masts, 
a  beehive,  an  ant-mole,  all  busy,  bustUng,  sell- 
ing, baying  1  Great  was  his  disappointment  at 
finding  everything  changed  aspect  of  country, 
dress,  tongnes,  cities,  life.  France  he  could  no 
more  know agab;  but, 'Hallo,  what  is  this r 
he  escUumed  with  Joy,  as  be  crossed  the  Bidas- 
•oa,  and  his  eye  swept  at  once  over  CastiDe, 
Estremadun,  and  finally  Murdal  'This  I 
know  fuU  wen ;  this  b  ml  tierra,  and  such,  fai- 
deed,  as  I  left  it,  vive  Dios  t  This  petrified 
natfon  is  really  a  European  curiosity,  and  ought 
to  be  walled  In,  and  admittance  granted  on 
certahi  days  of  the  year  with  tkk^ta.  They 
are  violent  and  revengeful,  and  crime  b  fre- 
quent The  inhabitants  on  the  Meditenanean 
coast  are  more  active,  laborkws,  and  ibstnulos. 
They  all  are,  however,  a  good-natured,  honest 
people,  food  of  their  country,  their  backward- 
ness, their  clergy,  and  pimiento ;  and  not  the 
less  piquant  for  that  Their  dress,  especially 
in  the  districts  of  Algesiras  and  Fortune,  b 
OMSt  Oriental,  but  diflera  little  from  the  Valen- 
ciaa.  which  w«  have  described  in  VaUmdm 
(I^ovince  o(Ji 

AgriatUwrt^  Minu,  eic—Tht  mines 
of  this  reino  harebeen  always  celebrated. 


and  yield  to  this  day  enormous  quanti* 
ties  of  ore.  The  most  important  are : 
La  Britanica,  San  Juan,  refining  estab- 
lishments at  Alicante;  the  Amalga- 
mation Works  of  La  Regenerada  at 
Almasarron,  of  San  Isidro  at  Esoom- 
brera ;  the  Bonanxos  of  La  Observacion, 
Emilia,  La  Esperanza,  and  a  hundred 
others.  Lead  and  silver  abound  every- 
where ;  and  there  are  besides  extensive 
and  numerous  quarries  of  white  blue- 
veined  marbles,  red  jaspera,  anthracite, 
etc.  The  mining  mania  reached  its 
acme  some  years  ago^  but  has  since 
decreased,  owing  to  stodos  desengaftos, 
hasty  and  feveriah  anxiety  to  reaUse 
immediately,  iniquitous  dealings  of 
some  companies,  whose  morals  and 
shares  were  not  Berquin's  '  Morale  en 
actions.'  But  most  of  the  best  are  in 
the  hands  of  foreign  and  respectable 
Spanish  gentlemen,  and  the  results  are 
prosperous.  (See  General  Information  : 
Mines.)  As  to  agriculture^  Murcia 
would  certainly  be  an  Eden,  where  all 
the  fruits  of  the  earth  would  be  borne 
without  trouble,  were  it  not  for  the 
great  drought  which  often  lasts  for  two 
and  three  successive  years.  The  irri- 
gated portions  produce  all  the  plants  of 
the  tropics  and  our  own  in  unusual 
proportions,  siie,  and  colour,  but  not 
taste.  The  orange,  the  palm,  and  carob 
tree,  wines,  silk,  soda,  red  peppers 
(pimioitos),  bass  grass,  rice^  etc.,  are 
most  bountifully  produced  by  the  kind 
mother  earth,  who  smiles  constantly 
on  thes^  her  spoilt  children,  the  kindred 
of  the  sun.  ^e  Hnerta  of  Muroia  and 
its  mnlbernea,  the  valley  of  Rioote  and 
its  citrons  and  oranges,  the  palms  and 
vegetables  of  Lores,  the  olives  of  To* 
tana  and  Mula,  the  rice-grounds  (arro- 
sales)  of  Oalasparra,  the  vines  of  Ciesa 
and  Mula,  the  esparto  (Spanish  rush) 
of  Cartagena,  are  celebrated  all  over 
Spain,  and  deserve  the  agriculturist's 
visit    Manufactures,  workshops^  &b* 


S22 


MUBCIA. 


riay  lunrerer,  tre  hinh-flomidiiig  words 
in  Morcian  etrt.  Some  iflk  it  pro- 
dnoedy  tome  hemp  and  flax.  The  three 
porta  ezportafporio^  £5000 ;  ailk,  about 
£60,000 ;  alkaU  and  aoda»  £9000 ;  winea, 
£26,000 ;  lead  orea,  £10,000 ;  aflTer  ore, 
£86,000.  The  importation  ia  limited 
to  Andalusia;  some  eoasting  eattle- 
trade,  spioes,  ete.,  is  eanied  on  with 
Cadis. 

JUmUt^-OtjeeU  of  hUen§t--ClimaU, 
— The  heat  is  insapportable  daring  the 
aommer,  and  winter  here  is  English  ! 
sommer.     There  are  Tallejs  dose  to  I 
the  aea,  where  the  climate  is  moat  de- 1 
licioli%  an  eternal  spring  thatyonth  of 
aeasons,  aa  the  Italian  poet  has  it: — 

La  priottverm  h  la  gioveotb  ddl  aono 
Como  la  gioventft  h  la  priouiTcra  dcOa  vita ; 

^  hot,  on  the  whole,  Hnrcia  is  a  fiimaoe, 
and  daring  the  aammer  the  houses  are 
hermetically  doaed  against  the  enemy, 
the  patioa  corered  with  awnings  and 
refreshed  by  foontains;  and  in  the 
baming  atreet-parements  yon  will  only 
,  aee,  say  the  natirei^  'on  perro  6  an 
ftttnc^'  Ennai  aeises  man  and  beast, 
and  aa  Heine  says  of  Aix-la-Chapelle, 
'eTcn  the  dogs  yoa  meet  look  Mosli,  and 
seem  to  beg  yoa  will  kick  them  by  way 
of  some  emotion.'  A  jadicioas,  errant 
predicador  monk,  who  used  to  trarel 
throaghoat  Spain,  not  many  years  ago, 
to  pieach  and  instil  into  the  souls  of 
sinners  the  awful  tortures  that  awaited 
them  in  hell,  and  the  delights  of 
hearen,  adapted-  the  nature  of  both  to 
suit  the  climate  of  his  listeners.  Thus 
in  damp  cold  Oviedo,  he  used  to  de- 
scribe heayen  as  a  land  of  blisa,  all 
sun  and  warmth,  where  it  nerer  rains, 
ssTe  gold  and  roast  chickens,  and  snow 
is  ignored.  In  Murda,  his  language 
changed,  and  to  the  brethren,  melting 
under  a  tropical  heat,  he  held  out  the 
enjoyments  that  will  recompense  the 
good  in  the  next  worid.  'The  delo,' 
he  said,  'waa  all  frill  of  ^adera ;  the 


angds  drank  nothing  but  deHdoos  iced 
Horchata  de  Chu£u^  and  a  soft  oool 
impereeptible  rain  bedewed  the  haippj 
chosen. 

The  best  seasons  to  Tidt  Murda  are, 
therefon^  spring  and  antnnm.  The 
cities  eontain  little  to  interest  the 
tourist  Murda  and  iti  cathedral  are 
soon  seen.  Oartagena  and  ita  port  will 
tempt  few ;  but  artists  will  do  wdl  to 
lint  the  sierraa  and  Talleys,  which 
abound  in  beautifril  aoenery.  The 
minenlogist  will  not  fidl  to  obtain  new 
data,  and  add  information  to  hie  stock, 
about  Cartagena  and  Alicante.  Bail- 
waya-«w  Chart 

The  muif  are  in  kept  and  rare.  The 
mountain-psases  are  secure^  and  bandita, 
in  their  dirers  Tsrietiea  of  bandoleroi^ 
raterda,  salteaddrea,  foragidoa,  eta,  un- 
known. 

We  suggest  also,  but  only  aa  an  ez> 

perimental  tour: 

or  Alicanta  to 

Albaoela,  raO.  Albaceta,  laiL 

duodulla,  raO.  Hdfia,  nil 

Hellia,  nuL  Murda,  nil 

Calaapana,  nil  Caitagcaa. 

Caiavaca,  rail  If  urcia,  laiL 

Vdes  Blanco,  rail,  Onhuda,  d. 

Veles  Rubio,  laiL  Elcha,  d. 

Lofca,  d.  Touuia,  d.  AlicaoM^  d. 

(Taitanas) 
Alnutfarroo,  laiL 
Csurtacena,  fail  or  boats. 
If  urcia,  niil ;  If  ula,  d. ; 

Lorca,  If  orcia,  ate,  d. 

Moroia. — Capital  of  proTince  of  same 
name ;  pop.  (I860),  87,808. 

Boutoa  and  OonToyaaoea. — (^SSas 
CluLrt)— From  Oranada,  see  Oramada, 

1.  From  Madrid.— To  ChinehiUa 
Stalitm  on  the  Madrid  to  Alicante  line. 
Time,  OJ  hrs.  Change  carriages,  and 
take  line  to  Murda  and  Cartagena. 
ChinchOla  to  Murda;  distance,  163kil. ; 
time,  6}  hrs. ;  fisres,  71r.  76c,  66r.  60c. 
Total  time  from  Madrid  to  Murda,  14) 
hrs.  to  16  hrs. 


MXTBCIA. 


323 


6044  inhAb.,  proyinca  of  Albaoete^  dta- 
ated  in  an  arid  eerrOf  some  700  ft.  hlgli, 
and  from  which  the  yiew  extends  to 
the  Sierra  de  ChinchiUa,  of  Segnn,  and 
Alcarraz,  and  orer  the  wastes  of  La 
Ifancha. 

ITeZfifi.  — Celebrated  only  for  the 
merciless  sack  of.  the  town  by  the 
French,  under  Montbnm,  and  as  being 
the  point  where  Joseph  Bonaparte,  on 
his  flight  from  Madrid,  united  with 
Sachet  and  Soolt,  after  Marmont's  de- 
feat at  Sakmanca.  Kear  (2  leagues), 
are  the  mineral  baths  of  Asaraqne,  and 
4  leagues  distant  the  celebrated  solphnr- 
mines,  worked  by  the  Romans. 

Ciaa. — ^Amid  plains  of  great  ferti- 
^^;  pop.  6000.  On  the  L^qtuL  Kear 
the  Segora.  Kot  far  from  the  town  is 
the  site  where  Pnblius  and  Cneius 
Scipio  were  defeated  and  killed  by 
Masinissa,  211  b.o.  The  road  to 
Moroia  is  good,  but  the  scenery  is 
monotonous,  and  without  any  interest 
S.  From  Alioanta. — A  diligence 
leaves  daily  at  5  A.M. ; 
stops  i  hr.  at  Elche,  where 
traveUers  breakfast,  and 
stops  at  Orihuela  1)  hr.,  where  they 
dine,  arriring  at  Murda  at  4  p.m.  that, 
same  day.  Fares,  berL,  88r. ;  int, 
82r. ;  banq.,  26r.  Another  serrice 
leares  in  the  morning  by  railway  to 
KoTelda,  whence  diligences  in  attend- 
ance on  the  trains  conrey  trsTellers  to 
Murda.  There  are  two  senrioes  follow- 
ing the  latter  line,  and  which,  crossing 
Orihuela,  arriye  at  Murcia  at  4  4.M. 
and  4  p.m. 


Akante 
£lcb«  . 
Albusera 
Orihuek 
M 


ttintrmfy. 


League 

9 

4 
4 
3 

.«3 


SUk^  ffb^  AUmnU. 


utf25iiMm.~2000inhab. ;  on  left  bank 
of  the  S^gunL  The  scenery  is  most 
Oriental  all  about  the  Qra^ja  de  Boca- 
mora,  Coz,  Oallosa  de  Seguia,  the  slopes 
of  the  Onro  de  Oro,  pregnant  with 
metali^  and  as  far  as  Orihuehu  The 
graceftil  palm,  balmy  orange,  the  nopal* 
aloes,  and  other  ezotici^  thriye  luxu- 
rianUy  on  this  American  soQ  and 
dimate. 

OriA«i«2^— 24,000  inhab.,  amid  mag- 
nificent plains,  whose  fertility  and 
aspect  remind  one  of  the'huertas  of 
Valencia  and  Granada.  Such  is,  in- 
deed, the  T^getatire  power  of  the  soQ 
that  the  profturb  runs  thus : — 

'  Loeira  o  no  Doera,  trigo  ca  Orihada.' 

This  is  truly  a  fayoured  land;  for 
beddes  dtrons,  the  exquidte  Orihuela 
oranges,  pomegranates,  the  dates,  the 
prickly  pear,  the  mulberry,  clothe  the 
fields  with  a  rich  foliage  and  golden 
and  ruby  fruit,  and  the  market  or  fair 
held  on  Tuesdays  presents  a  noTd  sight 
to  the  Korthom  tourist  The  Oothio 
cathedral  (Orihuela  is  a  bishop's  see)  is 
plain  and  small,  with  a  good  silleria, 
with  subjects  from  New  Testament 
There  are  sereral  churches,  mostly  in- 
difierent,  and  a  pretty  shady  Psseo  dd 
Charro.  Soon  after  Uie  rich  Hnerta  de 
Murda  appears  a  garden  of  delights  that 
gladdens  the  eye  after  the  dreary  plains 
of  portion  of  the  road  we  haye  crossed 
hitiierto.  At  Monte  Agredo»  obsenre 
the  Tery  picturesque  Moorish  castle 
rising  with  its  numerous  and  weU-pre- 
serred  turrets  on  an  isolated  hill ;  and 
now  in  the  distance  we  can  descry  the 
towers  of  the  cathedral  of  Murda  soar- 
ing aboTS  the  lofty  palms  andgroTes  of 
mulberry  trees. 

8.  From  Cartagena.  See  that  name. 
2}  hrs.  by  rail 

General  Deaciipttond — Placed  on  a 
fdatean  some  4  miles  K.  to  S.,  and  at 
442  ft.  aboTe  the  sea,  Murcia  lies  ex- 
posed to  the  burning  windsi    In  winter. 


324 


MUROIA. 


the  N.  winds  prevtil ;  in  the  spring, 
the  £.  ;  in  the  eummer,  the  S« ;  and 
then  Mmda  is  scarcely  habitahle,  the 
thennometer  rarely  fidling  below  26*  to 
24*  Bb.  Bain  is  Tery  scarce ;  indeed, 
whole  years  often  elapse  without  one 
sin§^edrop  falling  to  refresh  the  parched- 
np  Mnroianos  and  their  soil ;  in  snch 
years  many  Tillages  sre  deserted  end  a 
real  p<mie  takes,  place.  It  is,  therefore^ 
the  last  place  to  send  inralids,  unless  it 
be  to  hasten  their  ultimate  onre— death. 

Hotels— -iVmdla  tU  BUrtm,  recently 
established ;  decent,  and  charges  mode- 
rate. There  is  also  a  new  French  hoteL 
At  IWroii'f  (Calle  Traperia  Ka  81), 
table  dlidte  at  11  A.M.  and  8  P.M. 
Offices  of  diligences,  Fonda  d$  Sam  An' 
Umio,  ete.,  all  indifferent 

The  dty  lies  a  mass  of  honses  em- 
bosomed amid  gropes  of  palms,  oranges, 
citrons,  nopals,  and  mnlborry-trees.  The 
streets  are  rery  narrow,  but  here  and 
there  are  little  squares  and  gardens  filled 
with  trees  and  flowers.  The  houses  are 
mostly  painted,  pink  and  blue  predomi- 
nating, thus  enlirening  a  good  deal  the 
otherwise  dull  end  silent,  tradeless  snd 
backward  city,  which  looks  like  the 
temple  of  Odo,  doice  far  iti«fU«,  the 
palace  of  Queen  Siesta,  that  sister  of 
Queen  Hab— where  a  population  of  in- 
dolent, tawny-skinned  Afurtidk  Moors 
lie  under  the  shade  of  palms,  dreaming 
that  they  are  Spaniards,  that  they  lire 
in  the  19th  oentuiy  instead  of  the  11th, 
that  their  mosque  has  been  oonrerted 
into  an  infidel  heathenish  CathoUo 
cathedral,  and,  the  dream  becoming  a 
nightmare,  the  Eril  One  is  heard  hiss- 
ing and  roaring  at  the  gates  under  the 
shape  of  a  railway  engine,  and  bringing 
hosts  of  roumis  and  giaours,  come  to 
riolate  their  sacred  Korim,  their  sacred 
siesta*  and  sacred  backwardness,  with 
harsh  words— such  as  trade,  education, 
progresi^  dTiUsation,  and  tnrron,  not 
only  that  made  now  at  Alicante^  the 


fiiTourite  sweetmeat  of  randd  palates, 
but  that  confectioned  by  the  Budget, 
and  of  which  all  empleadossnd  preten- 
ientes  are  so  greedy. 

There  is  little  or  no  art  at  Murda ; 
books  snd  snow  sre  unlike  unknown ; 
where  the  body  melts  into  water,  the 
mind  cannot  be  actiTe  or  strong ;  snd, 
besides  the  eathsdral^  the  general  aspect 
of  the  town  and  enrirons— to  see  which, 
do  not  fail  to  ascend  the  cathedral  tower 
— the  dress  of  the  people,  the  wslks, 
etc,  there  is  nothing  to  be  noticed ;  the 
sooner,  therefore,  that  the  tourist  leayes 
this  frying*pan  the  better. 

Historioal  Notioe. — ^The  town  is 
scarcely  mentioned  in  Spanish  snnals  be- 
fore the  beginning  of  8th  oentuiy,  when 
itwas  taken  by  the  Berbers,  and  bdonged 
suocessirely  to  the  Khalifa  of  Damascus, 
BaghdH  And  finally  of  Cordora.  In 
18th  century,  about  1286,  when  the 
Cordorese  empire  was  dismembered, 
Murcia,  Medinkh  Mursi&h,  became  the 
capital  of  an  independent  kingdom,  and 
the  usurper,  Aben-Hudiel,  was  its  first 
king.  It  was  shortly  after,  an)  on  a 
sudden,  assailed  by  the  Moors  of  On- 
nada,  and  Ferdinand  III.  of  Castile, 
whose  aid  the  Murdans  had  obtained, 
turned  against  his  allies,  and  finally 
annexed  it  to  Castile  in  1240.  Haring 
rebelled  again,  it  was  reconquered  by 
Alfonso  d  Sabio.  It  has  nsTer  played 
any  important  part  in  history,  snd  the 
Boeotia  of  Spain  has  been  always 
neglected  and  scorned ;  but  although 
illiterate,  the  Murdans  are  not  wanting 
in  courage,  which  they  showed  during 
the  war  of  snccesdon  when  they  sided 
with  Philip  v.;  and  its  gallant  Bishop 
defended  the  town,  took  Orihuda,  and 
laid  nege  to  Cartagena,  which  he  com- 
pelled to  surrender. 

€|t  €it|clriL — Begun  in  1858,  was 
modernised  in  1521.  The  facade,  by 
Jayme  Bort,  is  churrigneresque,  deco- 
rated with  saints  and  Tiigiii%  sad  a 


MUBOIA. 


325 


ridiculous  recessed  central  portaL  Por- 
tions of  the  interior  are  Gothic ;  observe 
especially  the  Portada  or  Portal  de  los 
Apostoles,  the  Traacoro  and  its  elaborate 
niche-work,  the  good  silleria  and  organ, 
and  the  alto  r^To,  in  stone,  of  the 
Natiyity,  in  the  chapeL  The  high 
retablo  is  elaborately  carred  and  effec- 
tive. It  is  of  early  style ;  observe  the 
stataes  of  kings  and  saints  ;  and  in  a 
niche,  near  the  entrance  to  left,  a  sar- 
cophagus containing  the  bowels  and 
heart  of  Alfonso  the  Learned,  which  he 
bequeathed  to  the  chapter  of  the  cathe- 
dnd.  To  the  N.  are  carefully  proserred 
the  bones  of  San  Fulgencio  and  Sta^ 
Florentine.  The  sacristy  contains  ad- 
mirable wood-earring  of  beginning  of 
16th  century.  Observe  what  little 
now  remains  of  the  once  numerous  4nd 
rich  church  plate  and  jewels.  The 
custodia,  by  Perez  de  Montalbo,  1677, 
is  very  d^gant  and  rich. 

OhaptU,  —There  are  few  works  of  art 
in  them;  visit  CapiUa  del  Sitgrario, 
and  notice  a  -Marriage  of  the  Virgin,' 
by  Joanes,  dated  1516.  It  is  not  in  his 
best  styles  and  many  call  it  a  copy  of 
Baphael  (?). 

OajfiUa  d$  Urn  Fete— The  portal  is 
to  be  observed  for  its  statues  of  royal 
and  local  saints,  and  the  fine  colouring 
of  the  marble. 

CapiUa  de  San  Joti, — ^An  excellent 
Holy  FamUy ;  a  copy  of  Raphael 

In  the  Ckurt^  </  SL  NiekoUu^  ob- 
serve an  exquisite  marble  St.  Antiiony 
by  Alfonso  Oano ;  the  expression  of  the 
saint  and  naked  child  are  beyond  all 
praise.  There  is  also  a  good  group 
of  Joseph  and  the  Infant  Jesus  by 
Mala. 

The  StrmU  to  visit  are  the  long 
flagged  PlaUria,  where  the  peculiar 
antique-shaped  local  ear-rings  of  the 
peasant  women  are  sold.  The  Calle 
Mayor,  especially  near  the  bridge,  with 
a  good  view  of  the  river ;  the  pret^ 


Paseo  de  la  Glorieta  on  its  banks,  the 
range  of  mountains  in  the  distance. 
The  Traperia  offers  also  an  interesting 
lounge  for  the  different  articles  of  the 
Murdan  picturesque  costume  which  are 
seen  here. 

Promenade 8. — The  Cuhionable 
walks  are  La  Qlorieta,  Del  Carmen,  and 
the  Arenal,  with  an  nnmimf^g  gnmite 
monument  to  Ferdinand  YIL  There 
is  a  botanical  garden,  very  abundant  in 
exotics,  a  Plaza  de  Toros,  a  poor  theatre, 
and  some  silk  trade  not  exceeding 
200,000  lbs.  a-year  exports.  Artists 
will  not  omit  to  visit  tiie  gipsy  quar- 
ters at  the  Molecon.  They  may  also 
visit  the  fine  gallery  of  Sefior  Estor,  a 
dvU  and  intelligent  'Inteligente,'  who 
feels  a  real  pleasure  in  taking  iHbitors 
over  his  excellently -organised  collec- 
tion, of  which  most  pictures  are  au- 
thentic. We  subjoin  the  following 
remarks  from  Mr.  Hoskin's  work  on 
Spain  :— 

'The  gallery  of  Don  Jos^  Maria 
Estor  contains  some  interesting  paint- 
ings. A  St  Peter  and  a  Santiago,  by 
Moya,  who  was  bom  at  Granada  in 
1610,  and  studied  in  London  for  about 
six  nlonths  under  Vandyke.  There  is 
considerable  talent  in  the  drawing  and 
colouring;  and  they  are  rather  like  the 
first  style  of  Joanes.  18, 20,  82,  and  84. 
Landscapes  by  Rosa  de  Tivoli ;  some 
of  them  exceedingly  good.  60.  An  ex- 
cellent Espinosa,  representing  the 
Martyrdom  of  St  Stephen.  The  saint 
with  his  hands  crossed,  and  raising  his 
eyes  to  heaven  ;  and  the  other  figures 
preparing  to  stone  him,  and  more  es- 
pedaUy  the  two  looking  on  in  the  f(»e- 
ground^  are  very  fine.  81.  A  large 
painting  by  Velazquez,  of  Don  Balta- 
zar  Marradas  on  horseback.  The  head 
of  the  Don  has  evidently  been  cut  out 
to  carry  away.  78  to  80.  ByCristoval 
Iioren%  who  flourished  at  Valencia  to- 
wards the  dois  of  the  16th  oentoiy,  but 


326 


XURCIA. 


thoa^  I  saw  cone  of  hk  wofks  there 
I  bftTO  inquired  for  them;  ell  theee 
three  bATe  been  taken  from  some  titer. 
78.  Bepreeenting  St  John  the  Beptiat, 
ia  wanting  in  dignitj.  79.  St  Joeeph 
with  the  child  Jesoa  ia  fiill  of  grace. 
They  are  all  Tory  good  and  like,  hot 
not  eqnal  to  the  eulj  atyle  of  Joanea, 
and  Bermndei  is  thoo^t  to  be  ccmect  in 
supposing  he  may  haTe  been  hiapaptL 
82.  A  Dead  Christ,  by  Boelaa,  or  as 
he  was  sometimes  called.  El  Clerigo 
Boelasy  who  was  bom  aboot  1500,  at 
SeriUe,  where  only  his  best  wo^  are 
aeen ;  and  admirable  they  are— eoirect 
in  dimwing  and  rich  in  oolooring  as  the 
Tenetian  school  They  are  distin- 
guished, as  Bermudes  8ay%  for  their 
dignity  and  tmthftilness.  This  paint- 
ing has  considerable  merit,  especially  for 
the  fine  effect  of  li^t  on  the  body,  and 
the  colouring  of  tibe  figures  arranging 
it  104.  The  Resurrection  of  Lasarua, 
by  Lorenso  AlTares.  A  large  picture, 
containing  aeren  Apoatles,  and  Martha 
and  Mary.  The  drawing  and  fore- 
shortening rery  good,  and  tiie  colouring 
excellent  120.  A  good  head  of  St 
.Frauds,  by  Francisco  Zurbaran,  who 
waa  born  in  Fnente  de  Oantoe  in  1608, 
and  died  at  Madrid  in  1662.  He  ia 
called  by  Bermudes  the  Spanish  Cara- 
▼aggio,  whom  he  is  said  to  hare  imi- 
tated. In  the  drawing  of  his  figures 
there  is  seldom  any  similarity,  but  cer- 
tainly more  in  the  breadth  of  colouring 
and  the  marrellous  effect  of  his  lights 
and  ahadows;  some  of  his  draperiea 
are  truly  charming.  181.  Jacob's 
Dream,  by  Pedro  Nuftes  de  YillaTi- 
cendo,  who  waa  bom  in  1685,  in  Se- 
Tille,  where  he  died  in  1700.  He  waa 
a  pupfl  and  friend  of  Murillo's.  This 
is  a  good  pdnting,  and  the  play  of 
light  from  the  angels  on  the  iaoe  of 
Jaoob  is  Tery  beantiiuL  187.  A  bust 
and  hands  of  St  Peter,  by  El  Qreoo, 
wonderfully  drawn  and  well  coloured. 


ISO.  St  Paul,  by  the  aame.     15a  An 
excellent  picture  of  the  Yirgin   and 
ChUd,  aaid  to  be  by  Leonardo  da  YlntL 
The  colouring  is  good,  and  it  appears  to 
me  certainly  of  hia  achooL     152.  St 
Matthew,  and  an  Angel  sustaining  the 
book  on  which  he  ia  writin|^  ia  a  good 
painting  by  Joanea;  the  head rery  fine. 
158.   An  Angel  in  Adoration,  by  the 
aame  master;  expression  and  dimpery 
excellent     154.    St  Ambroeia.     155. 
St  Jerome.    156.  St  Athanasiua.    157. 
St  Augustin.    Tciy  good  picture^  by 
Nicholas  Borrss,  and  extremely  like  the 
first  atyle  of  Joanes,  his  master.    158. 
A  good  study  of  a  head,  by  Alfonao 
Oano.   159  and  160.  St  John  the  ETan- 
gelist,  and  an  Angd  in  adoration,  both 
good  paintings  by  Joanea;  the  latter 
has  a  gilt  ground.    178.  A  Philosopher, 
by  Ribera,  carefully  painted ;  especially 
the  head,  which  is  very  fine.     174.  A 
St  Peter,  by  Francisco  Bayeu,  who  waa 
bom  at  Zaragosa  in  1784,  and  died  at 
Madrid  in  1795.    This  painting  is  rery 
much  in  the  style  of  Spagnoletto,  but 
with  more  drapery.    175.  A  St  Onof^ 
said  to  1)0  by  Herrera.     176.   A  St 
Jerome,  said  to  be  by  Annibal  Osraoci, 
but  much  more  like  Ribera.    192.  A 
curious  Italian  painting  of  the  Entomb- 
ment of  Christ,  by  Vicente  Campi,  who, 
according  to  Bermudes,  risited  Spain. 
The  foreshortening  admirable,  and  the 
Sariour,  and  also  the  group  of  soldiers, 
are  rery  fine.     204.  An  Angel,  by  An- 
tonia  Pereda.    This  is  not  a  reiy  pleaa- 
ing  picture^  thon^  the  colouring  and 
drawing  are  rery  good.    206.  St  John 
the  Baptist,  entirely  naked,  by  Juan 
Ribaltl     The  drawing  is  fine,  but  the 
colouring  too  red.    207.  Said  to  be  by 
Cano,   but  more  like   Ribera's  s^e. 
209.  A  Msgdalene,  said  to  be  by  Ce- 
rezo^  but  I  think  it  is  a  copy  of  Anni- 
bal Cbtfmoci's.    211.  A  Virgin,  said  to 
be  by  Murillo,  but  more  lUce  a  Greoo^ 
a  yeiy  different  master.     221.  Jacob 


KAVARRS. 


327  ' 


tnd  hk  Sheep  Drinkliig^  a  pretty  peint- 
ing;  bat  I  doubt  it  being  painted,  AS  they 
aaj,  by  Mnrilla  228.  A  St  Joeeph. 
Thii  did  seem  to  me  an  original  picture 
bj  that  master.  The  Mint  has  the  in- 
fimt  Jesus  in  his  ri^t  hand,  and  abore 
is  a  glorj ;  the  child  ii  not  pretty,  bat 
still  it  is  a  Tery  nice  painting.  250.  A 
St  Jerome^  haish,  bat  beantiftilly 
painted  by  Joanes.  252.  Said  to  be  by 
Albert  Dnrer,  and  mach  more  like  Pe- 
rngina  264.  St  Paol,  by  Joanes; 
harsh,  bat  Tery  good.  252.  A  rery  ex- 
cellent pictare  of  Onr  Sayioor,  with  a 
orosB,  1^  Frandsoo  Keapoli    278.  A 


I  good  painting  of  anni^  said  to  be  by 
Yebcqaes.  298  to  807.  Caprices,  hy 
Frandsoo  Goya,  painted  in  a  sketchy, 
bat  Teryderer  style;  a  great  effect  pro- 
daced  by  a  few  toaches,  snd  some  of  the 
subjects  were  yery  grotesque.  817.  A 
Blind  Man ;  a  nice  picture,  said  to  be 
by  Yelasques  in  his  early  daysL* 

B0ffks  0/  Rtfirmet.—*  Hkt  de  la 
don  d«  k«  Anbet  en  If  orcia,'  by 
Fdma  d«  MaUofca;  gaaqn  x%^ 
little 


• 
cf 


N^.^foT  the  Geology  and  Agri- 
culture, see  these  in  the  General  Infor- 
mation, and  Yalenda  and  Murda. 


NAVARRE. 


Ooographioal  and  AdminiatratiTO 
Divisions,  oto.— Pop.  209,654  (1860) ; 
capital,  Pamplona.  The  province  is  91 
m.  long^  and  81  m.  broad,  and  is 
bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  Pyrenees  and 
the  Bidassoa;  W.  by  the  Oria,  and  hills 
of  San  Adrian ;  £.  by  the  ralleys  of 
Bones]  and  Anso ;  and  S.  by  the  Ebro, 
the  suffree  measuring  some  10,200 
square  Idls.  of  rocky,  rayined,  hilly 
countiy.  The  prindpal  rivers  are  the 
Bidassoa,  which  flows  through  the  val- 
leys of  Baztaa  and  Lerin,  emptying 
itsel(  near  Iran,  into  the  Atlantic ;  the 
Aragon,  which  comes  down  from  the 
hills  of  Jaca,  and  crosses  E.  to  W.  the 
northern  portion  of  Aragon ;  the  Elno, 
made  navigable  in  some  portion  of  it  by 
the  canals  of  Tauste  and^Tudela ;  the 
Alga,  &om  N.  to  S.,  and  at  Pamplona; 
and  the  Araquil,  which  winds  its  course 
between  the  hiUs  of  Goipuzcoa  and  Eich 
Cuenca,  of  Pamplona.  Navarre  is  a 
countiy  of  hills  and  plainly  the  former 
predominating;  the  highest  range  is  to- 
wards the  eastern  boundaries,  in  the 
province  of  Huesca.  The  broadest  plains 
extend  in  the  southern  portion,  towards 
Zaragosa,  Logrofto,  and  even  Luria, 


The  capital  is  the  residence  of  the  cap- 
tain-general of  Navarre,  and  a  bishop's 
see,  sufogsn  of  Buigos. 

History.— Tlds  reino  is  the  sndent 
Yasoonis,  and  its  name  is  said  to  be  do- 
rived  from  an  Iberian  word,  meaning  'a 
pUun  under  hills.'  Its  early  histoiy 
is  defident  in  interest  The  rade  and 
warlike  Yasoones  wsgedwar  sgainst  all 
who  dared  to  intrude  into  the  peace  and 
sedusion  of  their  fastnesses  ;  th^  cut  to 
pieces  the  rear-guard  of  Chartemsgne, 
when  he  came  across  the  Pyrenees^  to 
aid  his  Moorish  aUy,  Ibn-d- Arab^ ;  and 
when,  after  the  failure  of  this  expedi- 
tion, he  was  retiring  to  France  by  the 
defiles  of  Ha5eta,  at  Boncevanx,  the 
Navarros  mowed  down  the  flower  of  the 
Frank  nobility,  and  amongst  them  Bo- 
land,  the  popular  Pyrenean  Cid,  one  of 
the  twdve  peers  of  Charlemsgne.  The 
Navarros  were  then  allied  to  the  Yas- 
cons,  snd'headed  in  this  encounter  by 
Loup  IL  {(kA4fa,  in  Basque),  who  was 
a  vans]  of  Charlemagne,  a  treason  which 
cost  him  his  lif^  as  he  was  subsequently 
taken,  and  ignominioosly  hung:  'Misere 
vitam  in  laqueo  finivit»'  says  a  chart  of 
Charles  the  Boldi 


S28 


MAYABBS. 


In  tbe  eartlcr  period  of  their  historj, 
the  KaTanoe  were  goremed  hj  ahaks 
or  diiefii,  dected  amoog  thcsnaelTea. 


The  monarchj,  or  ooanty  founded  hj 
Ilkigo  Ariata»  about  842,  iMted  tfll  1618, 
whoi  Kararre  waa  incorporated  to  Oea- 
tOe  hj  Ferdinand  d  04tolieo^  <par 
droit  de  oonqulte^'  and  alio  by  firaad. 
The  principal  facte  of  ita  history  are: — 
Battle  of  Bonoeranx,  778 ;  county  of 
HaTanre  founded,  842 ;  battle  of  Las 
NaTas  de  Toloea  (Sierra  Horena),  which 
took  place  in  1212;  Juan  IL,  who 
poisoned  his  son,  the  Prince  of  Yiana, 
and  Blanca  de  KaVarra,  his  daughter ; 
Francois  Phcebos,  and  hia  sister  Oa- 
therine,  whose  hosband,  Jean  d'Albret, 
or  de  Labrit,  was  the  last  king  of  Na- 
Tarre.  This  latter  was  excommunicated 
by  the  Pope^  for  being  the  ally  of  Louis 
XII.  of  ^Mice.  He  was  dispossessed 
by  Ferdinand  the  Ostholic  of  all  the 
southern  portion,  but  retained  the 
northern,  or  Nararre  proper.  His  son, 
Henry  d'Albret,  married  Marguerite  of 
Yalois,  sister  to  Francis  L  of  France, 
and  left  an  only  daughter,  Jane,  whoee 
.  son,  by  Antoine  de  Bourbon  Yenddme 
(1540),  was  the  celebrated  Henry  lY. 
(1589).  The  annexation  to  the  crown 
of  France  was  confirmed  by  Louis  XIII. 
in  1820,  who  then  incorporated  also  the 
Yicomt4  de  B^am,  county  of  Narbonne, 
and  other  patrimonial  estates.  The 
kings  of  France  were  henceforth  styled, 
'  Bois  de  France  et  de  Hayarre  ;'  and 
the  kings,  on  the  day  of  coronation, 
swore  to  defend  the  'fors'  (/W^ros),  or 
Aindamental  laws  of  NaTarre  and  B^am. 
The  last  time  the  oath  was  taken  was 
Sept  81,  1775,  by  Louis  XYL  Ferdi- 
nand, on  his  ride,  promised  likewise  to 
respect  these  especial  codes ;  and,  though 
subsequently  modified,  many  of  them 
are  extant  eren  now. 

Oharaotar  of  theFdopl6,I>r6sa,6io. 
^The  Navarros  are  in  oharsoter  reiy 
like  their  nei^bours  the  Aragonese^ 


the 
those  of  the  hniy  districts  resemble  ths 
Basquei^  whose  langusge  they  qpeak. 
They  are  a  peaceful,  piston],  honest, 
uninteresting  people ;  temperate  in  their 
habits,  proud  of  their  fiiert%  and  fond 
of  independence.  The  hi^^ilanden  are 
mostly  smngglen,  sportsmen,  andguer- 
riUeroa  to  the  bone.  The  dress  is  partly 
Guipuaeoan,  and  partly  Arsgonese;  the 
Atqulfforri,  or  boimm,  the  pieturesqua 
Basqua  hesd-gear,  la  worn  with  a  long 
and  huge  tasseL 

AcrioQltaro,  mnas,  ate. — There 
are  some  petty  manufacturea  aet  up  here 
and  there,  and  iron-foundriea.  Cloth, 
paper,  spirits,  soap^  candles,  are  the 
principal  staplesL  The  hills  are  dotiied 
with  some  noble  fcvests,  many  of  which 
are  as  Tirgin  as  those  of  America,  espe- 
cially at  Qaroya  and  Frati,  and  inhabited 
by  countless  casa  mayor  and  wild  bettta. 
The  plains  produce  com,  maise,  oUtcs, 
flax,  hemp^  and  excellent  winei^  at 
Tudela  and  Peralta.  There  are  aome 
good  mineral  springs  at  Rtero,  Oarris, 
Echanrri,  Betelu,  and  Zisur.  The  mines 
in  this  prorince  are  not  important 
There  ia  some  copper  at  Elixondo  and 
Orbaiceta,  lead  near  Yers,  and  sslt  at 
Funes  and  Yaltierra.  The  forges  pro- 
duce some  80,000  quintals  of  iron,  which 
is  brought  here  firom  the  rich  iron-mines 
of  Somarrostro^  in  Biscay. 

Bailways.— See  chart  and  map. 

Botitaa. — ^The  cities  are  uninterest- 
ing (the  cathedral  of  PampUma  desenres 
a  Tiait),  but  we  would  reconunend 
sportsmen  and  naturalists,  and  all  fond 
of  alpine  and  picturesque  scenery,  to 
explore  the  wfld  districts  which  lie 
along  the  fhmtier  line,  the  mountains  of 
Altabiscar  (5380  ft),  and  the  Ad<  (5218 
ft),  the  beautiful  Talleya  of  El  Bsxtan, 
Santisteban,  Cincorillas,  eta  The  trout 
abounds,  and  the  shoothig  is  excellent 
The  best  periods  are  autumn  and  sum* 
I  mer. 


NAVARRE. 


3S9 


The  roads,  the  few  that  are,  will 
tiafy  the  moat  faatidioas  wayfkrer,  and, 
though  narrow,  are  well  engineered  and 
admirably  kept  up  by  the  proiinoe. 
There  la  a  pleaaant  tour  to  make  firom 
Bayonne  to  Pamplona,  by  the  Valley 
du  Baztan,  moatly  by  the  diligence 
road.  It  can  be  eaaily  performed  in  one 
long  day,  in  a  carriage,  or,  aa  we  did  it, 
riding,  aleeping  the  firat  night  at  £li- 
aondo ;  another  thna  : 


Bayonne  to 
Hatpniren,  d. 
Iiiiveiiifd. 
St  Jean  Pied  de  Port,  d. 

(Sleep) 
Vakarloi,  raO. 
Espinal,  nSL 
Zabiri,  nil 
Anchoris,  rail 
Pianplonat  nuL 

In  two  days. 


Third  R9uU, 

Bayoone  to 
Inm,  raO. 
San  Sebastian,  nuL 
£nianL  d.  )         •■ 

xSoM^d.;**"^ 

(Sleep) 
Oreca,  raiL 
Amuz,  rail 
Ininom,  raiL 
Abeacar,  rail 
Pamplona,  rail 

In  two  days. 


The  firat  two  will  intereat  artiata  and 
natoralista,  and  the  third  oflbra  many 
of  the  aitea  of  some  of  the  moat  cele- 
brated battlea  of  the  Duke  of  Welling- 
ton, towards  the  doee  of  the  Peninanlar 
War. 

In  the  K.E.  portiona  of  NavaiTe,  the 
Oaugu^  that  peculiar  race  who,  like  the 
gitanoa,  cr^tina,  etc.,  are  the  French 
and  Spanish  BaiHah*^  are  found  in 
some  diatricta,  eepecially  about  the 
Baztan.  Aocording  to  moat  authora 
on  the  aulject,  they  are  the  deaoend- 
ante  of  the  Arian  Viaigotha,  who  were 
routed,  with  their  king  AWic,  by  the 
Franka,  at  the  battle  of  Vouill^  near 
PoiUen  (507).  Many  retired  to  Spain 
K.W.  of  Asturiaa,  Biscay,  and  K.K  of 
KaTaiie,  and  the  reat  fled  to  the  un- 
healthieat  portiona  of  France,  to  eacape 
persecution ;  but  eren  in  thoae  retired 
rogiona  they  were  the  butt  of  contempt 
aad  Irony,  and  liyed  an  abhorred  raoe^ 


miaerable  and  poverty-stridcen.  They 
were  denied  Chriatian  burial,  all  inter- 
oourae  with  other  men,  and  obliged  to 
wear  a  peculiarly-ahaped  red  piece  of 
doth,  aa  a  aign  of  diatinctioh  firom  the 
common  race,  and  called  pitd  du  guid. 
They  had  a  aeparate  place  in  the 
churohea  appointed  to  them,  and  a  dif- 
ferent door ;  were  not  allowed  to  enter 
bakera',  butchera',  and  other  ahopa, 
tarema^  etc  ;  and  their  hair  waa  to  be 
doady  cropped.  They  were  moatly 
carpentera  and  rope-makera.  Thla 
peraecuted  race  waa  deaignated  by  the 
name  of  Cfaeom  and  Caqueux,  in  Brit- 
tany; Marrana,  in  AuTergne;  CoU- 
berU,  in  Maine,  Poitou,  Aigou,  etc  ; 
CahoUf  in  Oaacoigne;  Oaifo($^  about 
Bigorre ;  Ckrfba,  in  HaTane,  etc*  The 
generic  name  ia  aaid  to  come  from 
gaaa-Qoth,  or  Caaa-Qotha  (Gothic, 
dog$ ;  Cuaa,  Cfcmii),  or  from  the  Odtie 
each,  eakodf  eas$o,  which  mean  dirty, 
atinking^  leproua,  etc  They  must  not 
be  confounded,  aa  they  often  are^  with 
the  cretins,  gottereia,  etc,  from  whom 
they  differ  totally.  The  Oagota  are 
generally  tall,  atrongly  built,  and  with 
regular,  not  uninteUigent  featurea  and 
ezpreaaion.  The  French  Rerdution 
auppreeaed  all  diatinctiona  between  thla 
and  the  common  race  of  the  inhabitanta, 
declared  them  French  dtizena,  and  en- 
deavoured to  raiae  thia  fallen  race  to  a 
degree  higher  in  the  aodal  acde  of  the 
country.  In  Spain,  where  they  are  &at 
disappearing,  Uiey  haye*  not  ceased  to 
be  o^maideied  and  treated  aa  a  race 
apart,  from  whom  all  interoourae  must 
be  withheld  aa  almoat  ainfuL 


*  Cm/fm:   G«>,  leper  in  Spanish, 
U^rm,  tht  Hebrew  CAt/AyA,  was  an 
able  word    of   the   Spanish   law:    ai 
now^-days  to  call  a  nan  a  jmdi0  Is 
(rievoui  ooenoe. 


330 


OVIEDO. 


Oapitftl^of  prorinca  of  aame  name. 
Pop.  of  proTinoc^  540,585  (in  1861) ; 
pop.  of  eapital,  28,225. 

BontM  And  Ctonrejanoofl  firom 
Iioon. — ^The  moet  direct  line  from  Ma- 
dridf  and  K,  8.,  and  centre  of  Spain, 
and  from  France,  except  hj  tea,  from 
Bayonne. 

Distance,  22  leagues ;  time,  14  bra. 

coming  from  Leon,  and  16 

his.  when   coming  fixmi 

Oyiedo  to  Leon,   on  ac- 

coimt  of  the  hills.    Means  of  Transit, 

— ^Diligences  of  the  Union  Gastellana 

and  those  of  Company  Norte  y  Me- 

diodia,  are  good;  ofBces  at  Leon,  at 

Fonda  del  Norte.  Fares:  berlina,  180r. ; 

int  llOr.  ;  rot  lOOr.  ;  imp.  (coiip^), 

90r.    The  serrioe  is  regularly  kept  np 

only  in  the  good  season ;  during  the 

winter  months  there  are  certain  diffi- 
onlties  in  finding  conveyances.     Bail 

open  to  Bobla,  15  kil.;  Ij  h. 
Ihen  b  a  wUd,  sddom-foUowed  mountain- 
^  ride  that  we  recommend  to  none  but 
%A  hard  riders  and  sportsmen,  who  will 
^Ctt/  fi»(l  tome  excellent  trout-fishing. 
^^tmLm  Leave  Leon  on  the  left,  follow  the 
valley  of  the  Vetne«ga  to  Las  DuelUs,  5  leacues. 
Then  to  Truovana,  Villa  Setana,  Carrascante, 
Pola  de  Samiedo,  San  Andris  de  Aguera,  Bel- 
moote.  Grade,  and  turn  to  the  right  to  Ovieda 
The  rivers  affording  fishing  are,  the  Luna  dose 
to  ThMvana,  and  the  minor  streams.  There 
art  some  most  romantic  picturesque  points, 
especially  at  Belinonte  and  Pola.  Attend  to  the 
provender,  and  take  local  guides. 

JMMnify.— This  splendid  and  ad- 
mirably engineered  road,  which  was 
constructed  in  the  reign  of  Charies  lY. 
at  an  enormous  cost,  for  which  motive 
the  king  called  it  a  '  camino  de  plata,' 
lies  amid  most  picturesque  mountain 
scenery,  and  the  Swiss  traveller  coming 
from  Castile  will  find  himself  quite  at 
home.  Alpine  mountain^  aystal 
itreams  abounding  with  trout,  green 
▼tlleyi^  meadows  of  rich  hlne-green. 


chestnut  groves  and  maize-fields^  will 
meet  and  gladden  the  eye  dimmed  by 
the  dust  and  sand  of  the  desert-Hke 
plains  of  Castile.  The  road  winds  up 
and  down,  and  coOs  serpent-like  around 
dond-crowned  hilk. 

Leoo  to  La  Robbi 
ViUamacia 
Pljares    . 


Oviedo 


4 

4 

3 

3A 

3* 

3l 


The  road  on  leaving  Leon  lies  be* 
tween  the  Torio  and  Yeme^ ;  a  steep 
hill  Ib  then  ascended,  the  Yenta  de  la 
Fuerta  is  reached,  and  a  charming 
verdurous  volley  is  descended  into, 
watered  by  the  Yemeiga,  and  with 
woody  hills  towards  the  W.  LalUMa^ 
1400  souls,  shortly  after.  At  Puente 
de  Alba  the  Yemeiga  is  crossed,  and 
several  poor  villages  traversed ;  then 
top  a  steep  hill,  and  through  a  pictur- 
esque narrow  gorge,  cross  the  Torio, 
on  a  romantic  bridge.  On  leaving  Bur* 
dengo^  the  Puerto  de  Flares  is  crossed. 
This  passage  is  the  only  practicable  one 
between  Biscay  and  Asturias. 

Observe  the  pilares  placed  to  guide 
the  traveller  and  show  tha  way  in  the 
snow-storms  of  winter.  La  Penusa  i/i 
the  hi^iest  point  of  the  Puerto^  and  the 
first  Asturian  village.  The  small  abbey 
of  Albas,  close  by,  was  established  as  a 
resting-place  for  wayfaring  pilgrims  on 
their  way  to  Compostella.  The  view 
firom  this  point  is  extensive,  and  sweeps 
over  green  valleys  and  hills  clothed 
with  trees.  Sevoal  streams  gush  from 
this  vast  reservob,  and  fiow  to  form  the 
Lena,  which  is  crossed  at  Puente  de 
los  Fierroa.  (Two  decent  posadas  at 
Pi^ares.)    iVto  (is  Xsimi»  a  good  pav^ 


OYIXDO. 


331 


dor,  160  sooIb  ;  the  biithplmce  of  Oon- 
eaIo  Bayon,  who  oommtnded  a  ship^ 
under  tiie  orders  of  Pedro  Mendaz,  an 
Aatnriano  alao,  at  the  conquest  of  Flo- 
rida, 1665.  The  Lena,  on  right  of 
road,  is  met  here  by  the  Nareda  N,B. 
— Trout  is  exquisite  and  abundant 
At  half-a-league  distant  is  a  hennitage 
of  the  9th  centuiy,  called  Santa  Cris- 
tina. 

Miem, — On  the  Lena,  which  is  here 
called  Caudal  (pop.  4900),  it  is  divided 
into  two  parts,  La  YiUa  and  Mieres. 
It  is  the  birthplace  of  sereral  Asturian 
worthies ;  there  are  excellent  coal-mines, 
iron,  and  cinnabar,  in  the  environs. 
The  abundant  coal -mining  district  of 
Langreo  lies  3  leagues  W.  Not.  far 
from  the  town gushesastrongferrUginous 
spring  d4  la  Salud,  opposite  to  an 
l&iglish  iron-foundry.  After  traversing 
several  insignificant  hamlets,  continue 
by  Puerto  de  Padron  to  the  fiine  marble 
hddge  of  Alloniego,  the  work  of  Re- 
quera  Gonzales,  who  built  it  close  to  a 
picturesque  older  one,  supposed  to  be 
of  Boman  origin.  The  Nalon,  dear  to 
anglers  and  srtists,  flows  beneath.  The 
didant  view  of  Oviedo  is  fine  and 
pleasing. 

3*rom  Santaader. — 'Bj 
See  Oifon. 

AL&-*There  is  a  bridleHPosd  alonf  die  tea- 
^^   ooui,  35^  Icafoet.    Unbteresting, 

gjg^  loogg  and  wearisome^  with  but  few 
^J^^^  pictnretqae  sites. 

Saatander  lo~ 
Puerto  dd  Aice       •       •       •        3 


SantDbna. 
SaaVkenta 


Ribadesella 


ViUavicioia 
Gifon 

Veata  de  Poga 
OfkdD      . 


3 
3 
I* 

a 

3 
5 

4 
3 

4 


35* 


Three  days*  riding.  Sleeps  fiist  night,  at  San 
Vicente  (see  Q;  second  night  at  RibadeseUa ; 
third  night  at  Gijoo,  whence  by  diligence  to 
Oriedo.  The  angler  wiO  find  capital  qx>rt  here. 
From  Santander  to  Puenta  de  Arce,  and  then 
to  Santillana,  celebrated  for  the  sake  of  its 
imaginary  hero,  Gil  Bias,  whose  immortal  novel 
will  be  die  miTarying  Kwan  of  valets.  This 
charming  old-£Mhioned  town  is  but  3  m.  from 
the  seaport  of  Suancea.  Itb  die  birthplaoe  of 
Juan  de  Herrera,  the  ardutcct  of  the  EscoriaL 
But  its  chief  attractions  are  more  positive,  and 
we  recommend  the  excellent  bream,  called 
Usugm,  and,  indeed,  everything  caught  in  the 
transparent  Besaga.  The  salmon-pools  bdow 
Mnfionrodero,  dose  to  Lues,  which  is  itself 
x\  league  frcmi  San  Vicente,  will  compensate 
for  trouUe  and  travestas.  San  ViienU  (see 
Route  Q;— Some  of  the  best  fishing  in  Spain 
occurs  between  this  and  Villaviciosa,  esprcially 
trout-fishing.  The  principal  streams  are,  be- 
sides the  small  and  narrow  Narisa,  the  Diva, 
and  Cases  (in  the  former  qilendid  salmon  are 
caught  frequently).  Crossing  the  linests  of 
Liebana,  which  are  among  the  finest  for  timber 
in  the  wwld,  make  for  Colombces,  then  to  Llanes 
(pop.  aooo),  close  to  which  visit  the  ncglectod 
early  monasteries  of  San  Antottn,  and  San 
Salvado  or  de  Celorio ;  then,  resussing  trool- 
fishing,  visit  the  streams  of  the  J?i#«fr  IMmn^ 
the  Poa,  the  Niembro,  near  Rales,  the  Rio  Ca- 
liente,  and,  dose  to  Pria,  the  Aguamia.  The 
fishing  near  Arriondas  is  also  reooauneaded, 
and  the  Sella  affords  sport 

RibadtuUm.^iiXi  eacceDent  port  and  mole : 
p(^.  laoa  At  Llorsxa  visit  the  interesting 
early  church  of  Sta.  Euklia,  hoik  by  DoAa 
Urraca.  At  A  mmndi,  i  m.  from  Vilkvicioaa, 
do  not  fiul  to  visit  the  bkM  eariy  aad  curious 
church  of  San  Juan  Bautista,  probably,  accord- 
bg  to  some,  of  the  middle  of  the  17th  century. 
Villavidoea,  superior  to  its  etymological  repu- 
tation, looks  rather  the  dty  of  peace  and  virtue ; 
isoo  souls.  Its  only  attractions  are  the  laige 
mvtlUmat,  nuts,  its  orchards  produce.  In  die 
Cssa  deVaqueroe,  Charles  V.  slept,  September 
>9>  i5<7>  before  he  easbarked.  Whence  to 
(;yon(seeC^M). 

The  foOowing  bridle-ioad,  3s|  leagues,  is 
<^        preferable  to  any  other,  as  easier, 

^M^  and  crossing  Covadooga.  Sleep, 
^tff&  first  at  San  Vicente,  secondly,  at  Co- 
^tmamm  ^fadooga  (Le,  Cangas de  Onis|, and 
thirdly,  at  Oviedo.  It  is  most  pictureaqne  and  in- 
teresting to  the  artist  tot  its  early  chuithea  and 
historical  assodatkms.  Tbere  is  likewise  v«y 
good  fishing.  Take  a  hxad  gakk,  attaod  to 
the  provender,  and  choose  fine  weather.  iVlA 
—There  are  dOigenoes  between  ' 


332 


OTIEDa 


San  Vioente,  tad  between  Infietto  ud  Oriedo^ 

Utot  leductng  ihe  ride  to  i6  leagues 

• 

IttittTttfy, 

^n^»»t^|^  t<>"~                           I^eeciies. 

SanViooente. 

.    9* 

AbuKUret 

•    4 

yeiMiwieleni 

4 

Coradonga 

.    4' 

CangasdeOnb 

I* 

Infiesto  . 

4 

Sieio      .       .       . 

>    4 

Oviedo   .       .       . 

•    3 

not  hazd  nding. 

Stm  Vic^HU.^-QxmifitM  to  Saatander.  Oc- 
tbiKHial  steamen  to  Saatander,  Gijon,  etc 
Thb  is  a  poor  village,  with  wretched  accom- 
modation. On  November  so^  1808,  General 
Sarrut  defeated,  with  900  Frendbmen,  a  Spanish 
corps  of  6000  Spaniards,  which  <q>ened  to  them 
the  road  to  Ovieda  The  angler  will  do  well  to 
visit  the  trout  streams  of  Poso  de  Monego, 
near  Abandares,  and  those  of  Arenas  and  Car- 
rsfa,  all  good  quarters,  on  the  Diva ;  the  Cares, 
Maasra,  and  Luey  are  also  excellent.  The 
spoitsaaan  can  scour  the  hiUs  around  Aban- 
dares,  full  of  chamois  (fWwc»>.  The  botanist 
will  investigate  the  country  around  Covadonga, 
and  the  range  of  hiUs  called  Los  Cordales,  the 
Cotdillerss  of  this  mountainous  district 

Cwwifai/».— The  i^iproadi  to  this  shrine  of 
Spanish  hwhMry  and  cndle  of  its  monarchy  is 
finer  as  you  oome>9vm  Oviedo  than  as  you 
i^ipranch  firon  Santander.  The  river  becomes 
narrower,  its  banks  loftaar,  and  rising  per- 
pendiculariy  Glee  waDs;  the  pathway  is  an 
mngfturm.  The  scenery  is  wfld,  grand,  and 
primitive  looking.  A  vigorous  vegetation  softens 
down  the  hard  outlines  of  the  rocks ;  and  crys- 
tal rasrades,  bouncing  through  the  dark  foliage 
of  the  chestnuts,  give  freshness  to  the  air  and  a 
soul  to  the  sc^tude.  This  was  a  site  well  suited 
for  a  refuge:  the  blue-eyed  Goth,  the  watchful 
Iberian,  and  the  descendanu  of  conquered 
Romans,  mingJnd  into  one  nee  by  the  coos- 
munity  of  hatred  and  interests,  fted  to  those 
caves  with  their  relics  and  wealth,  and  issued 
again,  a  handful  of  heroes,  to  conquer  a  throne 
and  a  religion.  In  the  wild  poem  or  legend  of 
Pelayo^  the  fiicts  of  which  are  confined  within 
a  space  of  a  leagues  only,  Covadonga  recalb 
victory ;  Cangas  de  Onis,  his  court ;  Aba- 
his  grave.  The  defUe  opens  on  a  sasall 
valley  bounded  by  three  \afkf  peaks;  that  to 
W.  is  iiao  mtoes  high,  and  is  ck)thed  with 
oaks  and  beech  trees.  Ac  the  base  of  that  hill 
is  a  rock  jomtoeshtgh,  in  the  centre  of  which 
k  the  far4amed  Coeva,  below  which  rashes  the 
boiling  Diva,   which,   gushing  from  %M  onto 


Orandi,  foms  a  fine  cascade  S5  mtoes  high. 
Opposite  to  the  grotto  rise  the  hei|^  ol 
Tineo,  and,  behmd,  the  peaks  of  Siena  de 
Europe,  which  fipom  S.  to  E.  trace  the  bound- 
aries of  the  old  Prindpado  de  Asturias,  the 
m^tmagt  of  the  heirs  to  the  crown  of  Spma 
The  rode  projects  soosewhat  in  the  shape  of  an 
arch  over  the  small  f^lanade  at  the  end  of  the 
hill,  at  an  elevation  of  100  ft,  whence  it  rises 
300  ft  more,  till  reaching  the  sununit  of  the 
peak.  The  «esw  b  reached  by  a  fine  marble 
staircase,  and  b  7  yds.  deep  and  3  to  4  yds. 
high.  The  roo^  sides,  and  floor  are  all  cut  in 
the  rock  itself,  excqit  a  portion  <^  the  latter, 
which  b  of  wood,  through  which  the  Diva  b 
seen  and  heard  rushing  along.  To  thb  cave 
Pelayo  retired,  accompanied  by  1000  followers, 
according  to  some,  whilst  others  assert  they 
were  only  3oo(Siloe  and  If  oralesX  but  probably 
they  did  not  exceed  70  to  soa  There  b  a 
small  wretched  chapel,  wherein  b  placed  the 
much-venersted  ear^  image  of  Nnestra  Sefiora 
de  Covadonga.  Under  the  rode  are  placed  the 
tombe  supposed  to  contain,  on  the  right,  the 
body  of  Pelayo ;  and  to  the  left,  that  of  Alfonso 
I.,  with  those  of  hb  queen  and  sister.  Ofaeerve 
the  rude  ornaments  of  8th  century  on  the  tombe. 
The  bodies  were  reaaoved  here  fipom  Abamia, 
where  they  were  originally  placed.  The  epi- 
ttphs  are  modern  and  absurd,  and  unworthy  of 
that  rude,  stout-hearted  sheik,  a  type  of  gueril- 
leros.  There  have  been  several  projects  of 
erection  of  churches,  tenmles,  etc,  to  thb 
AsturianCid.  A  large  wooden  one  erected  to 
the  Vifgen  de  las  Batallas  was  burnt  down  on 
October  17,  1777,  nuking  another  frkct  precious 
to  the  superstitious,  who,  next  to  number  13, 
hold  the  7  to  be  the  unhickicst.  The  small 
monastery,  through  which  one  petset  to  reach 
the  Cueva,  b  indifferent  and  not  prior  to  16th 
century.  Charles  III.  ordered  Ventura  Rodri- 
gues  to  make  the  plans  for  a  magnificent  Greco- 
Roman  Santuario,  which  was  to  have  cost  14 
millions ;  but  nothing  came  out  of  the  project, 
save  the  wide  and  solid  foundation,  which  alone 
cost;Cso^ooa  The  great  ptlgriasage  takes  place 
September  8,  when  Fogatas,  danaas  de  romero, 
and  other  local  curious  and  early  rejoicings 
take  plaCT.  There  b  some  talk  of  finishing  the 
road  between  Covadoi^a  and  Gsngasde  Onis. 
A  good  carriage  road  b  being  finished  between 
the  latter  and  Infiesto.  At  Infiesto  diligence 
may  be  taken  to  Oviedo. 

Leaving '  Covadonga,  crom  die  hamlets  of 
Riera and  Soto^  and  visit  Abaasia.  Ahmmtuu-^ 
HalfHi-league  fipom  Cangas.  A  small  hamlet 
on  a  height,  and  doee  to  Cocao,  where  Roman 
slabs  have  been,  and  aaore  asight  be,  dug  np^ 
and  bdong  to  ist  and  sd  centuries  of  Christian 
(two  of  them  may  be  seen  at  Seior  Cortesf 


OTIKDO. 


333 


homeatCuigMX  T1iechtircliofS«Blft£iila]ia, 
whert  PeUyo  was  6nt  intetred,  ham  heen  mo- 
dernised, but  pois asses  vestiges  of  its  original 
structure  and  ground-plan,  probably  of  isth 
century.  Obsore  the  two  curious  sepulchres, 
said  to  have  been  the  original  ones  of  Pekyo 
and  his  queen  Gaudiosa.  The  lateral  portal  is 
of  isth  century.  Obserre  round  the  archivolt 
the  very  early  naive  figures,  dragons,  souls  of 
puigatory  in  cauldrons ;  and  among  other  scenes 
represented  cm  die  capitals,  and  on  the  right,  a 
figure  drawn  by  the  hair  fay  the  devil,  intended 
to  represent  the  eternal  torture  inflicted  on  the 
traitor  Bishop  Oppas.  Then  proceed  across 
chestnut  forests,  and  following  the  Buefia  and 


church  are  curiously  seolptured,  all  or  moady  of 
the  ssth  century,  and  representiqg  hiintiag  and 
Obaenre  that  of  Favila  slain  by 


Cmmgms  dt  OnU. — Pop.  70a  Cmnictu,  Cuen- 
ca  (shell-like,  broken,  as  Cmngmt  in  Asturian 
means).  The  court  and  residence  <^  the  kings 
of  Asturias,  but  now  without  walls,  a  unique 
and  deserted  street,  modem  poor  houses,  and 
not  even  the  ruins  of  its  palace  and  Fmtheonof 
its  kings.  There  is  a  fine  bridge  on  the  BueBa, 
which  joins  the  Sella  here.  The  parish  church 
is  of  i6th  century  and  indiflerent,  and  that  of 
Sta.  Qus  00  the  opposite  is  abandoned.  It  was 
built  by  Favila  about  735.  Antiquarians  should 
notice  the  early  inscription  cm  the  ||ab,  placed 
<m  right,  and  incorrectly  transcribed  by  Morales 
andothera.  Itrunsthus:  Resurgitexpreceptis 
divinis  hoc  macina  sacra — Opere  exiguo  comtum 
fidelibus  votis — Prespicue  clareat  oc  templum 
obtutubus  aacris— Demonstrans  figuraliter  signa- 
culum  afane  cruds,  etc  The  capitals  are  per- 
haps earfier  than  the  isth  century,  and  repre- 
sent ctnious  scenes,  most  rudely  eKecuted,  of 
huntii^,  warlike  pastimes,  etc 

An  excursioo  to  San  Pedro  de  ViUanuevacan 
be  made  half-a-4eague  W.  firon  Cangas.  This 
former  Benedictine  monastery,  situated  oft  the 
banks  of  the  Sella,  was  built  in  760 ;  it  has  been 
considerably  modernised ;  but  there  are  portions 
worth  a  flying  visit  Observe  the  three  rounded 
apses,  the  lateral  portal  leading  to  the  belfiry- 
tower,  and  the  entrance  del  palado  (why  so 
called  is  ignored).  The  Sella  is  renowned  for 
salmon-pools.  San  Pedro  was  founded  by  Al- 
fonso the  Catholic  This  king  succeeded  Favila, 
and  united  Cantabria  to  Asturias,  and  was  the 
first  Spanish  monarch  who  was  styled  Rl  Cat^ 
lie0^  fipom  his  love  of  erecting  sees,  building 
churches,  etc  The  dtle  was  resumed  by  Fer- 
dinand on  his  nmrriage  with  Isabella,  and  has 
continued  ever  since.  Hb  son,  Favila  I.,  did 
away  with  ecclesiastical  marriage,  which  the 
dissolute  Witiria  had  introduced,  much  against 
the  opinion  and  wish  of  the  dergy,  but  the  re- 
establishment  of  ecclesiastical  celibacy  was  still 
more  diflkult  to  obtain,  and  was  principally  the 
work  of  Gregory  VIL     The  capitals  in  this 


the  bear.  The  site  of  the  combat  is  at  the  point 
of  a  k»fty  hUl,  close  to  the  church  of  Sta.  Orus. 
The  capitals  or  sides  of  the  entrance  aidi  of 
Chapel  de  Sta.  If  aria  are  equally  curioua. 

Jt^/UtU.-'^y»  inhab. ;  a  tidy  posada. 

Bdbre  enteriiq;  the  town,  and  close  to  the 
PiloHa,  which  flows  down  to  meet  the  Sella,  are 
the  ruins  of  San  Pedro  de  VHIamayor,  ft  good 
qMcimen  of  eariy  Bysantioe. 


3*rom  Bantfta- 
der  by  rail  and 
dil,  801in. 


Santander  to  Pslenda 
Palenda  to  Leon     .    , 
LeontoOviedo      .    , 


hrs. 
tsbyniL 

S       »• 

MbydiL 

30  houn^ 


See  Santander  and  Leon, 

Trom  Ziugo.— There  are  two  roads ; 
both  require  local  gaidei»  and  a  fur 
amount  of  *  padenda  j  pangar.'  The 
scenery  is  inriting,  and  Uie  fishing  and 
shooting  excellent  There  are  no  in- 
teresting historical  sites,  and  the  anti- 
quaiy  need  not  rough  it 

The  shortest  route  strikes  over  the 
s8  leagues. 

Lugo  to— 

Castroverde          •       •       •  4 

Fonsagrada  ....  4 

(Sleep.) 

Penanoffft      •        .        •       •  3 

Grandas  de  SahoM       •       •  1 

Montefurado        ...  a 

Tineo 4 

(Seep.) 

Oviedo         •       •       •       •  10 


The  odwr  Is  not  quite  as  hard  riding  baft 
equally  impracticable  in  any  odwr  time  than  is 
sununer,  34  leagues. 

Lugo  to^  I^aguiib 

Mura 5 

Fonsagrada 3 

Acebo a. 

Puente  Salime     •       •       •       •       ^ 
Beiducedo s 

i 


334 


OVIEDO. 


PdadttAIleiidt 

Ckngas  d«  TiiMO  • 

Tineo 

SdM 

Gndo 

Oriedo 


34 


Tho  ■poitmnn  wfll  make  Cangu  d«  Tineo 
(pop.  looo)  his  head-qiuuten.  The  riirert  and 
streuns  which  abound  with  tabBoo  and  troot  are 
the  Navia,  eqitedally  between  ConreUana  and 
BehnoQte,  the  Narcea»  the  Luina,  Naviega, 
and  PequeBa.  The  three  btter  are  atreams  of 
the  bilb  called  Cordalas,  the  Naloo,  and  the 
streams  between  Grado  and  Oviedo,  going  by 
Pefiafloca.  There  is  some  good  shooting  aroond 
Cangas  de  Tlneo^  and  wolres  abound  in  the 
chestnut  woods  near  the  Gnadia  hiU. 

A  third  by  the  aea-ooast,  crotting 
Mondoftedo,  Riytdeo^  and  Avil^  864 
leagaeflL  Excellent  sea  i^driyer  fishing, 
picturesque  scenery,  and  not  yery  rough 
riding.  Local  guides  not  indispuisable, 
and  the  roads  yery  safe.  N^, — From 
Riyadeo  to  Syon,  steamers  in  8  hrs. 


Li^o 
Qulntek 
Reigosa 
MondoSedo* 


JitMtTtwy, 


Rivadeo 

Franco 

Nam 

Luarca 

LasBellotaa 

Muroe 

Avil^ 

ViUadoTeyo 

Oriedo 


Leagues. 

3* 

a 

3 
sshort 

3 

a 

3» 
3» 
3» 

36* 

From  Lugo  hy  MondotUdo. — ^At  Mon- 
do&edo  a  good  poeada— a  bishop's*  see. 
This  oM  irregularly-built  town  is  situ- 
ated at  the  foot  of  three  hills.  The 
cathedral  was  built  1221,  but  has  been 
greatly  enlarged  since,   and  modem- 


*  A  road  is  being 
ViUalba,    aToidtag 
Quintda  and  Reigosa. 
hshifsnrs 


which  win  pass  by 
the    vaUeys    of 
MmuUMnU,  9557  in- 


Ised.  In  the  ohapd  del  Santnario  da 
K.  S.  de  los  Remedies  is  the  image 
de  'La  Grande'  or  *La  Inglev,'  so 
called  because  brought  hers  from  8t 
Paul's^  London. 

One  league  from  Hondoftedo,  on  the 
riyer  Hasina,  is  a  Benedictine  monas- 
tery, founded  969  by  Count  Gutierre 
Osoria  Itwasdeyastated  by  the  French. 
Observe  the  fine  tombs  of  the  founder 
and  his  wife  Do&a  Urraca. 

iitiMuiao.— Popi  9018  (proyinca  of 
Lugo).  A  small  theatre  and  decent 
inn.  A  good  safe  port,  situated  on  the 
Eo,  whose  oysters  and  fish  we  recom- 
mend, and  are  very  desenredly  ponder- 
adas  in  Gallicia.  Asoend  to  the  OsstUlo 
for  the  sake  of  the  charming  view  ob- 
tuned  from  the  summit  An  excursion 
may  be  made  by  the  Rio  to  Csstropol 
(Castn5s  or  the  Oily  of  the  Castoe, 
Camp  Sevastopol,  Siropheropol,  Liver- 
pool  (?).  *  Pola  de  Lena,  Pok  de  Al- 
lende).  Anglers  may  pay  a  fiy/iniQ  visit 
to  the  salmon-pools  of  Abres,  2  leagues 
up^  whence  to  the  Navia ;  now  by  aferry- 
boat,  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  to  Figueras, 
the  first  Astrian  village.  The  scenery 
between  Lbs  Bellotas  and  Avil^  is 
Swiss-like.  Good  fishing  in  the  Navia 
and  Pravia. 

AinUs,—U  it  the  Argentiola  of  the 
Roman  Handbook^  or  Pliny's  Zoela? 
It  is  first  heard  of  as  ^fraid^  in  a  Carta 
de  Donacion  of  Alfonso  IIL  in  905,  by 
which  the  houses  and  churches  were 
granted  to  the  cathedral  of  Oviedo. 
7880  pop.  Oneleaguefromthe8ea,witha 
Ria  which  has  a  good  fondiadero,  called 
De  San  Juan.  This  old-fashioned  town 
13  uninteresting,  irregular,  and  dirty ; 
a  decent  posada,  and  excellent  fruit  and 
fish.  The  church  of  San  Nicolas  is  a 
good  specimen.  The  architecture  of 
churches  at  Avil^  are  all  of  the  Byzan- 
tino-Gothic,  between  18th  and  14th 
centuries  of  the  Byzantine.  Its  chief 
cariosities  are:  the  frontal  with  ani* 


OVIEDO. 


335 


mala  and  engrailed  patterna;  the  ttatoe 
of  N.8.  del  Oannen ;  and  the  Byantine 
tofflba  of  the  Alaa  family  with  tl^ir  cant- 
ing anna,  wing$.  There  ia^  uoreoTer, 
aome  good  acolptore  bj  Boigo^  an 
Aatnrian  acolptor.  The  Oaaaa  Ccmaia- 
torialea  are  worthy  of  a  glanoe.  Ob- 
aem  alao  the  hooaea  of  Harqnte  de 
Ferrera,  of  Marqn^  de  Santiago  (Pedro 
el  Cruel  lodged  in  the  Oaaa  de  Bara- 
gaAa),  and  the  hooae  of  Harqu^  of 
Campo  Sagrada,  a  barroqne  fa^ade^  with 
early  towera  and  batUementa— aalo- 
monic  and  iatriated  pillara,  etc,  with  the 
proud  motto  on  the  anna,  '  Deapoea  de 
Dioa  la  caaa  de  Qnirda.'  'La  Merced* 
,  waa  founded  1414  by  one  of  the  Alaa, 
and  dedicated  to  St  Thomaa  of  Canter- 
bury. Two  bridgea  on  the  Ria  connect 
the  main  town  with  the  auburb  of  Sa- 
bugo,  inhabited  by  aaOora  and  fiahermen. 
Antiquariea  ahould  endearour  to  visit 
and  sketch  the  interesting  Byzantine 
church  (1  league  from  AtiI^),  at  Man- 
zanara,  which  ia  of  the  11th  century. 
Then  to  Oriedo  by  the  Camino  Real. 
DiL  to  be  had  at  AtU^  and  vice  fend. 

4.  From  La  CbncAo.  A,  By  aea. 
(SeeOymAa.)  ^.3yland  Bridle  road 
to  Batanzoa,  Balconea,  Caaaa  to  Mondo- 
ftedo  and  RiTadeo^  ^  tuprti, 

6.  FromOi^    (See  Ovim.) 


Oriedo  la  clean  and  healthy,  and 
well  supplied  with  ayatal  water  from 
Gitoria,  which  ia  brought  by  an  aque- 
duct called  Pilarea,  which  was  planned 
in  1558  by  Juan  de  Oarecedo^  and  built 
1509  by  Qonzalo  de  La  Beroera.  Lat 
Madrid,  4S*88'.  ON. 

Climato. — The  cold  is  rery  keen,  and 
the  rain*  aa  aeen  by  the  following  table, 
continuea  to  pour  down  quite  k  la 
Ingleaa.  In  1860  there  were  160  inhab. 
between  the  agea  of  90  and  100,  and  7 
abore  100,  in  the  whole  prorinoe.    The 


exmtcumei  of  the  army  in  this  province 
are  more  numerous  than  elaewhere  viz. 
1924,  mostly  arising  from  defects  and 
illnesses  derived  f^om  lymphatic  tem- 
perament and  ^Umdular  affectiona. 

Maxfamm       „         (Angost  it) 
Miaimtim       „        (Junarf  9) 
ATerags  prcflBon  01  fttaoiphcrv 
NtuDber  of  nuny  days 
Quantity  &Den 

FrevaMst  wind,  li.S.,  199  days. 
M0rimUfy^-t  to  61 
I  tote 


13.0 
39-7 

3-« 

74^1 

ijasS 
«-3« 


» 


1860 

i86t 


Inna. — La  FtaofMiia  and  Flimda  dt 
Madrid.    Good  fiah  and  fruit 

General  Deaoription. — Thia  old- 
fashioned  time-honoured  dty  ia  aitu- 
ated  on  a  alope  amid  a  fertile^  Swiss-like 
vaUey,  and  aheltered  from  the  N.W. 
winds  by  the  Sierra  de  Karanco,  which 
is  about  two  milea  distant  Ita  princi- 
pal streets  are  little  elae  than  hi^waya 
leading  to  Leon,  Grado^  Santander,  and 
G^on,  and  are  lined  with  unaophiati- 
cated  ahopa  and  ahopkeepers.  The 
moat  frequented  are  La  Tenderia  (Ti- 
enda,  a  tent,  a  ahop^  to  tend),  and  the 
Alamedas  Chambel,  Chamberri,  and 
Bomb^  The  Plaza  is  a  fine  aquare^  and 
presenta  a  scene  fit  for  artists.  The 
name  is  said  to  be  derived  from  the 
rivers  Ove  and  Diva,  near  which  Pelayo 
routed  the  infideL  There  are  aeveral 
fine  specimens  of  Asturian  architecture, 
and  churriguerismo  and  Greco-Romano 
have  defiled  but  few  of  ita  edificea. 
There  is  a  tolerable  theatre,  a  hoepitable 
caaino,  and  the  promenadea  of  Bomb^ 
San  Franciaoo,  aind  the  Jardin  Bot^oo 
are  charming. 

HiaiorloAl  Kotice.— The  city  sprang 
(mm  groupa  of  hermitages,  converted 
with  time  into  convents ;  the  first 
church,  that  to  San  Vic^wte,  being  erect- 
ed 760,  but  the  real  founder  was  Alfonso 
il  Casto,  who  removed  the  court  and 
capital  of  hia  kingdom  from  Cangaa 
and  Pravia,  and  propoaed  reviving  here 


336 


OVUEDO— CATHEDRAL. 


the  fofmer  splendour  of  the  Gothic 
court  At  Toledo.  For  this  he  spered 
neither  time  nor  money,  and  erected 
chnrehes  and  palaces,  founded  public 
schools,  hospitals,  biult  baths,  all  of 
which  contained  magnificent  marbles, 
silver  and  gold  rases,  paifUimgi,  and 
richly-decorated  famitore.  He  like- 
wise fortified  the  city,  built  np  the  sque- 
dnct,  enlarged  and  repaired  Froila's 
then  minons  basilica  of  San  Salvador, 
etc.  He  also  founded  the  See  (810), 
and  Oriedo  became,  under  his  enlight- 
ened patronage^  one  of  the  most  import- 
ant dties  in  Spain.  In  the  war  of 
independence  Marshal  Ney  was  sent 
with  6000  men,  by  Soult,  against  the 
corps  under  Hsrq.  de  la  Romsna,  Bal- 
lesteros,  and  Worster,  who  retreated 
without  firing  a  shot,  and  thus  leaying 
Oviedo  at  the  mercy  of  the  iuTaders. 
The  city  was  cruelly  sacked  for  three 
days,  and  sacked  tLffdn  not  long  after 
by  Oeneral  Bonnet  The  plunder  was 
considerable,  and  the  horrors,  often 
committed,  are  not  yet  foigotten. 

Slchts.  — The  GathedraL  Minor 
churches — ^ric  Sta.  Maria  de  Karanco, 
San  Miguel  de  Lino,  San  Julian,  N.  S. 
de  la  Vega,  San  Francisco^  Sta.  Domin- 
go, San  Vicente. 

V|t  Catmnl.— JTtfeoHco/  JVbeios.— It 
it  buOt  on  the  site  of  the  basilica  which 
vras  raised  by  Froila  in  781,  rebuilt  and 
enlarged  in  802  by  Alfonso  el  Casto, 
who  dedicated  it  to  San  Salvador,  and 
raised  to  metropolitan  nine  years  after. 
Its  ruinous  state  and  small  sice,  inade- 
quate to  the  wants  of  the  growing  popu- 
lation, caused  Bishop  Gutierrei  de 
Toledo  to  pull  it  down  and  build  the 
present  one ;  the  first  stone  was  laid  in 
1388.  The  works  went  on  slowly,  and 
under  the  direction  and  at  the  expense 
of  succeeding  bishops.  The  only  por- 
tion spared  of  the  former  edifice,  the 
work  of  Tioda,  is  the  Gamara  Santa ; 
the  others  hare  been  modernised.    The 


cathedral  was  completed  by  Mendon 
inl628. 

SiifU. — Gothic,  of  second  period. 
Very  pure^  elegant,  and  sober  in  orna- 
mentation, harmonious  and  regular, 
small,  and  not  very  lofty. 

JBxteHor-^Tower.'-'naB  Gothic  bel- 
trj  of  the  period  of  Gothic  decline  is 
about  224  ft.  high,  and  is  of  the  two 
that  were  intended  the  only  one  ever 
built  upi  It  is  very  elegant,  lofty,  bold, 
and  is  considered  one  of  the  finest  in 
Spain.  It  is  divided  into  five  stages, 
and  rests  on  the  four  massive  piers  of 
the  ri^t  arch  of  the  portaL  It  was  in- 
jured by  fire  in  1621,  and  not  completed 
tiU  1788. 

The  principal  facade  is  on  the  W. 
The  portal  is  divided  into  three  large 
arches,  which  correspond  to  the  three 
naves.  -  The  central  is  higher  than  the 
rest,  and  the  tower  wanting  vras  to  rise 
above  that  on  the  left  The  ogive  is 
elalxnrately  worked,  but  is  rather  too 
wide,  and  is  almost  circular,  showing 
the  very  early  Perpendicular  style  in 
Spain  at  that  period.  There  is  great 
soberness  of  ornamentation,  and  the 
niches  are  vacant  Over  the  central 
portal  there  are,  neverthdesi^  the  six 
figures  of  the  Transfiguration,  and  busts 
of  Froila  and  Alfonso  el  Casta  The 
fa^e  is  most  eflcctive,  rising  some 
200  ft  ;  and  is  richly  decorated  with 
crocheted  pinnacles,  highly  ornament- 
ed parapets,  endless  niches,  etc 

ItUeHor, — Great  simplicity;  orna- 
mentation scarce,  but  elegant ;  narrow- 
ness. There  is  a  distance  of  240  ft 
from  the  centra]  principal  door  to  the 
Chapel  of  Trasaltar,  and  00  ft  only 
from  lateral  doors  to  the  transept ;  the 
width  of  central  nave  is  88  ft ,  and  that 
of  the  lateral  is  28  ft  There  are  numer- 
ous windows,  but  they  are  not  pointed, 
except  those  to  the  S.,  the  N.  side  ones 
being  blocked  up.  At  each  end  of  the 
transept  there  is  a  fine  coloured  wheel 


OVIEDO. 


33: 


window.  The  pillars  are  plain  and 
elegant,  their  capitals  being  formed  by 
leaves.  The  arches  spring  boldly  into 
the  air,  and  under  the  derestoiy  runs  a 
gallery,  which  continues  round  the  cen- 
tral nave  and  transept  The  stained 
glass  represents  saints,  is  of  no  great 
merit,  and  dates  1608-12.  Four  mas- 
sive but  not  heavy  piers  support  the 
<ora/ arches  of  the  spacious  transept  Ob- 
serve against  the  one  closest  to  Chapel 
del  Salvador,  and  placed  on  a  small 
pillar  with  a  capital  composed  of  the 
pilgrims'  shells,  a  very  early  and  rudely- 
executed  statue  of  the  Saviour,  probably 
a  relic  of  the  former  church,  and  dat- 
ing from  the  beginning  of  12th  cen- 
tury. In  the  southern  arm  of  transept 
is  A  door  leading  to  the  cloisters  and 
Camara  Santa ;  that  in  the  northern 
arm  opens  to  Chapel  del  Rey  Casto. 
Thus  on  one  side  are  the  ashes  of 
kings,  the  Escorial  of  Pelayo's  dynas- 
ties ;  on  the  other,  the  relics  of  the 
saints,  makingthe  transept  a  ViaSacm, 
worthy  of  the  pilgrims  who  were  for- 
merly wont  to  flock  by  thousands  to 
either  shrine. 

High  Chapel. — Occupies  the  penta- 
gonal apse.  The  reUblo  consists  of 
five  tiers,  each  subdivided  into  five 
compartments,  and  dates  1440.  The 
relievo  figures  represent  the  Life  and 
Passion  of  Christ  The  sculpture  is 
inferior,  but  this,  the  work  of  a  century, 
cost  millions  of  reals.  Over  the  gospel 
side  is  *  niche  with  statue  kneeling  of 
Bishop  YUlarf  1490,  and  several  other 
bishops  of  the  16th  and  10th  centuries 
are  buried  here.  The  chapel  is  divided 
from  the  choir  by  an  indifferent  modem 
railing,  A  bad  imitation  of  Gothic  The 
stalls  are  elaborately  carved  with  fili- 
gree open  work  and  saints  of  Old  Testa- 
ment 

The  crgan$  are  ohurrigneresque  and 
incongruous  as  usual  The  (rasooro 
has  been  sadly  whitewashed,  and  the 


marble  altars  are  heavy  and  indifferent 
In  the  centre  is  the  altar  of  Nuestra 
Sefiora  de  la  Lu^  with  a  fine  retablo^ 
crowned  with  the  Cms  de  los  Angelos, 
and  abominable  statues,  on  the  sides,  of 
Ss.  Peter  and  PauL 

Camara  Santa, — ^This  is  the  great 
sight  of  the  cathedral  and  object  of  pil- 
grimac^  and  veneration.  The  chapel 
that  contains  the  rdics  was  built  by 
Alfonso  el  Casto.  It  is  18  ft  long  hj 
16  ft  wide.  It  is  composed  of  two 
rooms  ;  one  is  the  thapel,  thi  other  the 
rttiquary.  The  former  has  a  groined 
roof,  and  is  lighted  only  from  a  small 
window  placed  at  the  arch  above  the 
reliquary.  On  the  sides  are  six  pe- 
destals, each  of  which  supports  two 
statues  of  apostles.  These  are  of  the 
most  advanced  period  of  the  Byantine, 
and  date,  probably,  of  time  and  reign 
of  Alfonso  YI.  They  are  caryatides-like, 
stiff*,  rude,  but  not  wanting  in  expres- 
sion, and  the  cast  of  the  draperies  bold 
and  easy ;  their  feet  rest  upon  fantas- 
tical animals^  and  the  pedestals  at  the 
comers  bear  small  pillars  with  curious 
capitals.  The  pavement  is  of  hard 
argamami,  mixed  with  divers-oolonred 
pebbles  to  imitate  jasper ;  it  is  coeval 
with  the  building.  Observe  over  the 
entrance-door  the  quaint  and  very  early 
Byzantine  heads  of  the  Saviour,  Virgin, 
and  St  John,  formerly  painted  and  then 
whitewashed.  The  twenty-two  steps 
ascending  to  the  Antecimara  date  only 
the  10th  century;  the  BtHeairio^  or 
Sametum  Sandorym  of  the  04mara,  is 
separated  from  the  rest  by  a  railing. 
Observe  here  the  a^ffrtf  or  armorio,  moI 
the  celebrated  oron,  or  oak-diest, 
covered  with  thin  silver  {dating  with 
bassi-relievi  figures  of  Christ,  Apostles, 
Viigin,  St  John.  It  is  0  feet  long  by 
84  ft  wide,  and  same  height  as  width. 
It  was  made,  not  by  Alfonso  el  Cafto^ 
as  many  suppose,  but  more  pcobaUy  hf 
Alfonso  TI. ;  Uonlm  a»erti  the  latter 


Z 


338 


OYIEDO. 


in  his  'Yiage  Btaito,'  bat  denied  it  first 
in  his  'CnSnica.'  Around  it  runs  * 
long  inscription  in  Cufio  characters  in 
praise  of  Gk)d — a  custom  introduced  in 
Christian  woriu  after  the  reoonquest  of 
Toledo.  The  style  of  the  chiselled 
designs  on  its  four  sides  seems  posterior 
to  the  9th  century.  In  the  front  of  the 
area  are  twelre  niches  with  statuettes 
of  apostles  ;  at  the  comers,  the  eran- 
gelists  ;  and  in  the  centre^  the  image  of 
the  Sayiour  supported  by  angels.  The 
sides  represent  Uie  Natirity,  Adoration, 
Flight  into  Egypt,  etc,  and  the  cover 
Mount  Calvary.  This  area  stands  like 
an  iM>lated  altar  and  close  to  the  rail- 
ings ;  and  here  kneel  those  who  come 
to  pray  to  the  relicsi  These  latter  are 
said  to  have  been  collected  by  the 
Apostles,  removed  from  Jerusalem  when 
it  was  taken  by  the  Persians,  carried  to 
Africa,  then  to  Toledo,  and  after  the 
battle  of  Guadalete  carried  in  haste, 
like  JBneas's  penates,  to  the  Cueva  de 
Monsagro,  8  leagues  ttom  Oviedo,  and 
added  to  his  collection  by  Alfonso  el 
Casto,  whence  removed  to  Oviedo  in 
895.  The  relics  consist  of  the  usual 
assortments;  thorns  from  the  true 
cross  ;  one  of  the  thirty  coins  for  which 
Judas  sold  his  Master  ;  the  sudario  or 
shroud  of  the  Lord ;  a  bitfrom  Lazarus' 
tomb,  etc.  Observe,  amongst  the 
jewels,  two  historical  crosses ;  the  one 
called  from  its  exquisite  fili^^  work- 
manship 'obra  de  las  Angelas.'  It 
dates  808,  and  is  in  the  shape  of  a 
Maltese  cross  ;  beside  the  giver's  name 
and  date  are  anathemas  on  him  or  them 
who  would  steal  it,  and  the  words  '  Hoc 
opus  perfectum  est  in  era  DCCCXlYI,' 
the  XI  standing  for  XL.  The  shape 
was  one  often  adopted  in  that  age ;  a 
magnificent  ruby  and  a  fine  Roman  (?) 
cameo  enrich  it.  The  foot  is  formed 
by  two  kneeling  angels.  The  other 
cross  is  called  de  la  Victoria,  and  is 
asserted  to  have  fallen  from  heaven  on 


Covadonga.  It  is  a  work  of  908,  made 
for  Alfonso  III.  at  Gauzon,  and  about 

5  ft  high.  Its  enamelled  designs  pre- 
serve great  brilliancy  of  colouring. 
Pope  Eugenius  granted  1004  yeara'  and 

6  cuarentefias'  (40  days)  indulgence  to 
the  dtvoiot  who  kneel  before  the  relicsi 
The  '  Fiesta  de  las  Reliquiae'  is  a  great 
semi-pagan  festival,  which  takes  place 
on  March  18,  in  commemoration  of 
their  removal  to  Oviedo.  Few  have 
yet  dared  to  look  into  the  sacred  area  ; 
it  is  reckoned  dangerous  to  soul  and 
body  so  to  do^  and  in  1650,  the  Bishop 
of  Sandoval  y  Rojas,  after  fasting  and 
prayers,  ventured  to  open  it,  but  what 
he  beheld  made  his  hair  so  stand  on 
end  that  his  mitre  almost  fell  ofi^  and 
he  desisted.  It  was  nevertheless  opened 
in  1075,  in  the  presence  of  Alfonso 
YI.  and  Dofta  Urraca,  no  evil  result 
attending. 

Capilla  del  JU  iS^nto.— Built  by  Al- 
fonso II.  (about  848)  to  serve  as  a  family 
vault  for  himself  and  his  successors. 
It  was  sadly  modernised  in  1712,  by 
Bishop  Tomas  ReltuL,  not  a  light  of  the 
church  or  architecture.  The  chapel  out* 
churriguerises  Churriguera,  and  the 
rotable^  cornice,  pilasters,  cimborio, 
eta,  are  abominable.  Here  are  buried 
several  of  the  earliest  kings  and  queens — 
viz.,  Froila,  Alfonso  el  Casto,  Alfonso 
el  Magno,  Dofta  Gyloira,  wife  of  Ber- 
mudo,  Dofta  Urraca,  wife  of  Ramiio  I., 
etc. 

Cfloiden,— 'They  wera  begun  in  the 
14th  century  and  finished  in  the  15th  ; 
the  inscriptions  are  mostly  prior  to  the 
building.  Their  architecture  is  Gothic ; 
they  are  not  spacious,  but  elegant  Ob- 
serve the  curious  capitals,  composed  of 
sculptures  representing  hunting  and 
historical  scenes,  and  a  series  of  comical 
pictorial  reviews  of  the  times.  The 
Library,  though  deprived  now  of  many 
treasures,  deserves  investigation,  and  Is 
the  richest  in  Asturias ;  its  M8S.  are 


OVIEDO. 


339 


important  Inquire  for  the  lihroi  tU 
beeerra,  or  Uimbot  (register-books  of 
deeds),  and  the  very  cnrions  and  in- 
teresting '  libro  Gotico, '  an  illuminated 
MS.  of  beginning  of  12th  century,  with 
180  vellum  leaves.  The  dresses  and 
ojleioi  of  the  time,  and  especially  those 
of  the  officers  of  the  palace,  are  curious ; 
observe  the  queens,  attended  by  their 
maids,  ndi8$ejua^  and  housemaids,  cu- 
bicularia  ;  the  kings  with  their  tumUgeri 
and  prelates,  the  portraits  of  popes, 
etc. 

Minor   Ohnrohes.— Sta.  Maria  de 
Naranco.    This  very  interesting  monu- 
ment, for  the  hlstoiy  of  Spanish  archi- 
tecture, belongs  to  the  Latin  style  of 
the  9th  century,  and  is  an  excellent 
example  of  the  churches  erected  iriiortly 
after  the  reign  of  Constantine.    It  was 
built,  according  to  the  inscription  lately 
found  in  it,  in  the  era  880,  A.D.  848,  and 
by  King  Don  Ramiro.     Bishop  Sebas- 
tian, who  witnessed  its  erection,  teUs  us 
it  was  '  a  work  of  marvellous  beauty 
and  flnishod  elegance,  and  without  an 
equal  in  Spain.'    The  exterior  ia  very 
peculiar,  the  effect  being  greatly  en- 
hanced by  its  circular  arches.      The 
entrance  is  by  a  portico  which  leads 
also  by  steps  down  to  a  crypt,  which 
was   used   as    a    church,    a   general 
usage  at  that  time.     The  interior  is 
8u<^  as  it  vras  ten  centuries  aga     The 
proportions  are  40  ft  long  by  16  ft 
wide.     It  is  divided  into  three  parts, 
and  the  floor  of  the  central  portion  is 
the  lowest     It  is  light  and  elegant, 
this  result  being  produced  by  a  luppy 
combination  of  Unes,  mostly  curved. 
Observe  the  twisted  cable-like  pillare, 
circular  roof,  the  three  gradtrioi,  or 
grees,  arches  and  capitals. 

San  Miguel  <U  Lino  (or  L»«o).— This 
church,  situated  close  to  the  former  on 
the  slopes  of  the  Monte  Naurancio, 
was  built  by  Ramiro^  about  850.    The 


Albeldense  mentions  it  thus :  '  In  loco 
signo  dioto  ecdesiam  et  palati*  arte 
fomioea,  mire  constnudt  (Ramiro).' 
The  architect  was  Tioda  or  Fioda.  It 
has  not  been  preserved  in  all  its  pristine 
beauty  and  perfection  as  that  of  Sta. 
Maria ;  the  apse  and  collateral  chapels 
were  closed  in  a  hemicyole  and  not  a 
square  shape.  Observe  the  agimeoes  at 
each  end  of  the  transept,  the  arches  of 
which  rest  on  four  spiral  istriated  pillars 
(the  most  perfect  is  that  to  the  S). 
The  style,  called  Latin  by  Caveda 
('Ensayo  Hist'  p.  91),  and  Gotioo  (not 
ogival,  <mr' Gothic),  by  Morales,  is 
harmonious  and  most  elegant  The 
main  body  is  40  ft.  long  by  20  wide. 
The  transept  and  cimborio,  the  beUry 
and  high  altar,  the  arches,  eta,  though 
in  miniature  proportions,  arc  all  ex- 
quisite. The  Goro^  or  Tribuna  Alta,  is 
placed  above  the  pavement  The 
sculpture  is  the  rudest  possible. . 

Close  to  the  cathedral  are  some  other 
early  churches.      S<tn  Tir$o^  built  by 
Alfonso  el  Gasto^  has  been  modernised. 
San    VicmUj  tiie   oldest   church   in 
Oviedo,  built  by  Bishop  Fromistano 
and  enlarged  in  the  11th  oentury,  was 
modernised    in    1692.      The   learned 
Fey6o  rests  here.    This  nionk  was  one 
of  the  greatest  critical  writers  Spain 
ever  possessed,  and  one  of  the  glariat 
of  the  Benedictines.      His  works  are 
< Teatro  Critico  Universal'  and  'Gartas 
erudites  y  curiosas.'     This  monastery 
was  duplex,  that  is,  for  both  sexes, 
just  as  that  of  San  Pelayo,  founded  by 
El  Oasto,  and  called  also  de  San  Juan. 
Eodesiologists  may  also  visit  the  Con- 
vent de  Sta.  Clara  of  the  18th  oentury, 
modernised  in  1766,  but  lireserving  a 
good  Byzantine  portal   San  Frandseo, 
now  a  hospital,  vras  founded  by  Fniy 
Pedro,  a  friend  and  companion  of  St. 
Francis  de  Ar^    The  church  has  been 
modernised,  the  high  altar  and  col- 
lateral   naves    are   Gothic.      Several 


340 


OVIEDO. 


memben  of  great  Astnrimn  hoiues  Are 
buried  here  ;  Amongst  them  the  QuinSs 
and  theVAldecarzanas.  In  the panUon 
of  the  latter,  whilst  the  annlyersaiy  ser- 
Tioe  takes  place,  a  oow  is  introduced, 
which  remains  all  the  time  that  it 
ksta.  In  the  Yega,  N.E.  of  city  to 
San  Jnlian  de  los  Pradoa,  is  a  mon- 
astery  of  the  12th  century,  founded  by 
Queen  Qertrude,  the  fair  and  pious  wife 
of  Alfonso  YII.  It  is  caUed  Sta.  Maria, 
and  is  cruciform. 

The  Eapieio  is  a  classical  edifice  of 
Ventura  Rodriguez,  and  dates  1708.  It 
is  rery  well  managed  and  decent,  re- 
ceires  700  poor,  gives  work  to  orphans 
ukd  arrepinHdai,  eta 

la  BaUiqmda  is  a  poor-house, 
situated  alra  intirot,  and  founded  in 
1232  by  Dofta  YelasquiU  Giraldez.  It 
belongs  to  the  cofiradia  or  brother- 
hood guild  of  tailors,  called  Los  Al- 
fayates,  to  whioh  the  wealthiest  inha- 
bitants belongs  and  whose  statutes  are 
interesting,  and  based  on  great  philan- 
thropy. Their  festival  takes  place  at 
Pentecost  on  the  Campo  de  San  Fran- 
dsca 

Thi  Univenity  is  a  large  buildings 
built  in  1608,  in  the  Herrera  style. 
The  university  was  founded  by  Arch- 
bishop Yald^  who  bequeathed  to  it  all 
his  fortune.  It  possesses  a  Ubraiy  of 
12,000  vols.,  a  rich  ornithological 
museum,  and  a  good  physical  labora- 
tory. 

Th$  Toum  EaU  (ConMittoHo,  or  0(ua$ 
CfontidcriaU^  was  erected  in  1822,  by 
Juan  de  Kaveda.  It  is  indifferent, 
though  large.  Under  the  arcade  are 
situated  the  best  shops  in  Oviedo. 


Here,  among  other  curious  documents, 
is  kept  the  foero  granted  by  Alfonso 
VI.,  not  unlike  in  substance  that  of 
Sahagun,  and  confirmed  by  Alfonso 
YII.  in  1145.  It  gives  an  insight  into 
the  legislation  of  that  time,  and  is 
interesting  for  its  style,  which  marks 
the  transition  from  Latin  to  Bomance 
and  formation  of  Spanish.  The  right 
of  dispensing  of  property  according  to 
the  owner's  wish  is  established ;  equa- 
lity before  the  law  of  Infanxonea, 
podestades  (counts),  and  the  lower 
classes.  Duels  and  Ma  pmeba  del 
hierro  candente '  are  admitted  in  cases 
of  theft,  claims  for  inheritance,  etc 

The  antiquities  at  Oviedo  arc  scarce 
and  indifferent  Of  the  old  walls,  those 
on  S.E.  only  exist  Near  the  cathedral 
are  some  remains  of  the  palace  of  £1 
Bey  Casto,  and  of  his  castle. 

Exeuni(mi.^ln  1  hr.  to  the  mineral 
spring  at  Driorio,  called  Caldas  (ealidat, 
'hot)  de  Oviedo,  most  efficacious  in 
cases  of  arthritis,  the  stomach,  and 
paralysis  ;  temperature  41*.  (See  for 
details,  General  Information  :  Mineral 
Baths, )  Yisit  at  Priorio  the  Byzantine 
Church  of  San  Juan,  and  observe  its 
hemispherical  apse,  circular  portal 
flanked  by  low  pillars,  with  statues  of 
the  12th  century,  the  imsge  of  Christ 
between  the  four  beasts  of  the  Apoca- 
lypse, etc  The  thriving  Government 
Gun  Manufactory  of  Tmbia  is  close  by. 

B^aktifXi/krtrmcf.^u  'Htstoriadc  Oviedo, 
PorJot<GtTeda'«4to  MS.  ia  Acadcnia  do 
laHisCorio. 

«.  *AQCigflcdad«dok  InglMia  de  Oviodo^ 
byCarUllo.    MS.  ia  srefatvct  of  Catbodnl  of 
Oviedo. 


BALEARIC  ISIi^VNDS. 


iLUORCA  OR  MAT.LORCA 


C  dt  •"»»'*■ 


r.tU  S«Umm» 


Ei^f/itsA.  JKiU* 


.9 4 


J0  U 


ryCABRKEA 


IVIZA 

Smmt  SeuU 


y>^ 


MKNORCA 

J4MW  SmtM 


X  L   C    dlsTk.  ZixtAmx^ 


341 


PALM  A  AND  Balearic  Islands. 


Though  hitherto  n^lected  by  the 
ordJnaiy  tourist  in  conBequence  of  their 
out-of-the-way  litaatioii  and  difficulty 
of  access,  this  town,  and  the  Balearic 
Islands  generally,  possess  attractions, 
both  in  climate  and  sceneiy,  which 
will,  no  doubt,  when  better  known, 
induce  more  frequent  yisits.  The  ex- 
cursion, if  not  quite  so  common  as,  is 
certainly  not  less  pleasant  than,  al- 
most any  others  in  Spain.  The  general 
character  of  the  country  ia  most  pic^ 
turesque  and  striking,  partaking  as  it 
does  in  character  of  the  breadtii  and 
boldness,  solemn  stillness  and  charming 
strangeness,  peculiar  to  the  neighbouring 
Africa,  although  mixed  with  the  more 
agreeable  yariety  and  cheerful  greens  of 
Catalonian  landscapes.  The  climate  of 
Palma  rivals  that  of  Malsga  and  Algiers, 
while  there  are  many  cases  in  which  it 
is  deemed  preferable.  The  architecture, 
although  not  of  paramount  importance, 
still  exhibits  examples  of  high  interest 
to  the  student  of  Spanish  art;  and, 
finally,  the  naturalist  will  not,  we 
think,  have  cause  to  regret  the  excur- 
sion when  he  will  have  examined  the 
flora  peculiar  to  some  localities,  and, 
aboTe  all,  the  exceedingly  curious  no 
less  than  beautiful  grottoes,  and  the 
many  fossils  with  which  the  islands 
abound.  The  inhabitants,  especially 
the  Mallofcans,  are  an  honest,  inter- 
esting, though  not  enterprising  or  pro- 
gressiTe  people^  hospitable  and  unso- 
phisticated. Their  dress,  habits, 
tongue^  and  appearance  have  retained 
much  of  the  primitive  character  of  their 
Horo-Aragonese  forefathers,  and  are  in 
perfect  keeping  with  soil  and  climate. 

History. — The  name  Balearic  has 
been,  and,  we  shall  hope  for  etymolo- 
gists, will  ever  continue  to  be,  a  con- 
stant sulject  of  useless  disputation.    It 


may  come  from  Baid,  a  Phoenician  god 

said  to  have  been  worshipped  here ;  or 

frt>m  Balea,  one  of  the  companions  of 

Hercules  (both  which  suggest  Phoenician 

colonisation) ;  or  again,  from  B&XXeur, 

to  throw  at  or  cast,  designating  thus, 

in  spite  of  more  appropriate  verbs,  the 

country  of  the  strong-armed  tlimgtn^  of 

Classic  celebrity,  mentioned  by  Viigil  :-^ 

'  Et  media  advenos  liquefacto  tempoia  plnmbo 
Diffidit,  ac  multa  porrectutii  extendit  arena.' 

And  Ovid's 

'Non   wens  exanit,   qnam  com  Bmlmricm 
phtnibuni 
Fonda  ladt,' etc. 

For  here  is  said  to  have  been  invented 
that  powerful  engine,  managed  with 
so  great  art  and  dexterity  thifc,  Flores 
tells  us,  young  children  were  not-  al- 
lowed any  food  by  their  mothers  till 
they  could  sling  it  down  ftt>m  the  beam 
or  branch  whereitwasplaced  aloft  Rho- 
deanand  Fhocean  traders  colonisedapor- 
tion,  calling  the  three  principal  islands 
Gymnesis,  because  their  wild  inhabi- 
tants fought  naked  ;  and  the  smaUer 
PithyussB,  frt>m  the  pine-forests  which 
clothed  their  hills.  Placed  between 
Spain,  Italy,  Fhmce,  and  Africa,  the 
Balearics  were  alternately  the  sport  and 
prey  of  whichever  happened  to  be  the 
strongest  at  the  time.  Somewhere 
about  400  B.a,  the  Osrthaginian 
HamUcon  and  Hammon  landed  and 
founded  several  colonies,  enlisting  the 
native  slingers,  whom  tiiey  employed 
to  great  advantage  side  by  dde  with  the 
fkmous  Iberian  cavalry  and  Celtiberian 
in&ntry.  Rome,  after  the  third  Punio 
war,  entrusted  the  conquest  of  the 
islands  to  Q.  Ceo.  Metellus,  who  soon 
achieved  it,  and  was  consequently 
styled  'Balearicua.*  Kew  ocdonies 
were  established,  and  under  the  generic 
name  of  '  Balearica,'  the  whole  r^oQ 


342 


FALMA  AND  BALIABIO  ISLAND& 


bectma  ptit  of  Citerior  Spain.  Ruled 
in  turn  by  y«ndali  and  bj  Ckytha,  they 
i&nAUy  thared  the  fate  ernnmon  to  the 
mother  country,  falling  in  798  into  the 
hands  of  the  Mooc%  nnder  whom  they 
reached  the  aem^  of  prosperity.  The 
'  Balearics '  were  peopled  by  a  daring 
independent  race^  the  kindred  of  the 
restless  ware ;  and  being  hwnmad  in 
on  erery  side  by  grasping  inTader%  be- 
came so  many  nests  of  piratei^  who 
flocked  hither,  like  hawk%  from  Algerine 
coastii  Greece,  and  the  Italian  idands. 
These  people,  nndeigoing  the  sodden 
transition  firom  alayes  to  masters,  spread 
terror  orer  the  whole  of  the  Mediter- 
ranean Sea.  Never,  perhaps,  was 
piracy  before  or  after  organised  on.  so 
formidable  a  seale^  the  result  bdng 
a  cnrious  free  commonwealth  whose 
power  was  coarted  and  not  nnfreqnently 
em|doyed  by  sorereigns.  The  treasure 
sccnmolated  during  the  piratical  in- 
Tasions  excited  the  jealondes  of  neigh- 
booring  kingdomi^  which  were  them- 
selres  in  a  sense  riral  piratical  asso- 
ciation%  although  of  older  date,  superior 
discipline,  and  more  orthodox  daima. 

The  most  important  of  these  expedi-. 
tions  (some  of  which  were  called  'holy 
crusades*)  was  that  of  Don  Jayme  I., 
King  of  Aragon  and  Count  of  Barcelona, 
who^  September  1229,  sailed  for  Palma 
from  the  little  port  of  Salon,  near  Tar- 
ragona, with  a  fleet  numbering  upwards 
of  160  galleys,  carrying  18,000  soldiers. 
The  fleet  encountered  a  serere  storm, 
and  both  crews  and  soldiers  were  terribly 
sea-sick.  'Lamar,'  says, graphically, 
the  old  chronicler  Marsilio,  in  the 
plain-spoken  lemousin  of  the  day,  'la 
mar  prora  e  assa^a  los  ventres  dels 
nofels  peregrins  e  encare  dels  antichs 
marinen ;  tots  los  pens  los  Tsdllan,  ih 
caps  han  torbata.'  Af^  a  despmte 
resistance  Palma  fell,  and  the  usual 
general  rtpartieiim  of  the  conquered 
land  took  plaoe  among  the  followers  of 


El  j099  Id  a  An^o  <fU 
Mereeydrof;* 


The  crown  of  'El  Beino  de  Malloica' 
was  inherited  by  Don  Jayme's  second 
son,  who  became  a  Tassal  of  hb  eldest 
brother,  Pedro  of  Aragon.  The  inde- 
pendent kingdom  was  finally  merged  in 
the  dominions  of  the  Aragonese  crown, 
nnder  Pedro  lY.  of  Aragon,  and  sub- 
sequently (sharing  the  fate  of  that 
laUer)  became  part  of  Spain. 

liftngnage— Pre— —Ark—The  'Mai- 
lorquin'  is  a  corruption  of  the  Catalan 
dialect,  but  the  pronunciation  bespeaks 
proximity  to  Italy,  and  is  softer  than 
at  Barcelona. 

The  fcOoviac  Mallorcuiivonb  any  be  Cooad 
uieful: — Maac-uag.  U  and  j»,  the  plur.  jm, 
the  fem.-aanf.  j»  and  I*,  plur.  sms.  When 
applied  bocli  to  Bsaac  and  fien.,  nnf  .  m*  plur. 
tit.  £m  k  abo  tned  for  muc-mag.,  and  mm 
for  the  foa.  Smt  m  the  neuter.  J'mif  k  pro- 
nounced pooirch,  and  meant  a  peak,  a  'puy.' 
FrMi0  k  an  estate ;  Xaxm,  pronounced  ns^ 
a  villa :  Bmrrmmck,  a  glen,  Spanish  'bananco.' 
There  n  gnat  amOaritj  between  MaOorcan 
and  tfie  ^  -*"gi"tdiM**ftfi  patftit  of  MontodKec 
Indeed,  die  intercourse  was  frequent  betweeu 
that  dty,  die  birth-place  of  Don  Jayme  L,  and 
Mallorca. 

Although  intelligent,  the  people  are 
not  endowed  with  the  yiWd  imagination 
to  be  expected  in  that  southern  latitude, 
and  more  given  to  solid  pursuits.  The 
eariy  popular  poetry  of  Mallorca  is^ 
howerer,  not  deroid  of  charm.  It  ii 
Catalan  in  character,  but  more  pathetic, 
and  embued  with  a  wild  Moorish, 
melancholy  feeling,  though  strictly 
orthodox  in  the  mystic  effusions,  which 
are  one  of  its  chaimoteristica.  The 
islands  hsTe  given  birth  to  several 
men  of  note :  the  learned  Bamond 
Lull ;  the  antiquary.  Cardinal  Despuig ; 
the  missionary,  Serra;  the  painter, 
Mesquida ;  the  sculptor,  Juan  de 
Marx ;  the  cosmographera,  Jayme  Fer- 
rer and  Yalsequa  ;  Jayme  Fabre,  one 
of  the  foremost  among  medi»va]  arohi* 
I  tects,  sto. 


PALBfA  AND  BALEARIC  ISLANDS. 


343 


The  dress  is  picturesqae.  The  men 
weer  wide  Moorish  breeches,  cslzas; 
the  Greek  HrreU;  the  silken  open- 
breasted  waistcoat,  called  guairda  pUa  ; 
white  or  black  stockings  and  rough 
leathern  shoes ;  a  black  doth  jacket,  d 
9ayo:  a  colonied  aash,  faia;  and  now 
and  then  the  Aragonese  broad-brimmed 
sloQch  hat  with  tassels,  and,  more 
ordinarily,  the  motlej  kerchief  tied 
tnrban-like  aronnd  the  head,  complete 
their  costume.  The  women's,  as  usoal 
in  Spain,  is  not  so  striking,  and  con- 
sists of  a  white  mnslin  or  lace  stomacher, 
ctXitArtbanUo:  the  liair  is  worn  loosely 
on  the  back,  'en  estofiade;*  a  black 
merino  or  silken  boddice  (low  and  '  de- 
collete')  \b  enlivened  by  snndiy  metal 
buttons  and  silver  chains  tastefully 
arranged.  They  are  pretty,  with  large 
lustrous  black  eyes,  small  hands  and 
tiny  feet,  good  figures,  and  a  certain 
amount  of  captiva^ng  '  gracia '  and  sim- 
plicity of  manner.  The  men  are  tall, 
daric,  well-proportioned,  and  active. 

Art.— The  part  assumed  by  Mallorca 
in  the  history  of  Spanish  art  has  not  as 
yet  been  clearly  defined.  Thero  is, 
however,  little  doubt  that  the  native 
school  of  architecturo  influenced  not  a 
little  the  formation  of  that  of  Catalu&a 
and  Aragon,  and  generally,  therefore, 
the  entin  character  of  Spanish  early 
Gothic  The  painters  If  esquida,  Bes- 
tard,  Ferrando,  have  left  works  of  no 
transcendent  merit,  but  which  will  be 
usefully  consulted.  Porcelain  suggests 
at  once  the  famous  Ifi^olica  ware, 
known  as  such  at  a  very  eariy  date, 
for  Dante  already  writes  (' Inferno' 
zxviiL  88)^ 

Ti»  Tiaok  dt  Capri  «  MaioKcm. 
And  besides  Ferrari  and  others,  the 
learned  Scaliger  expatiates  on  the  excel- 
lence of  the  Mallorcan  pottery,  whence 
the  Italian  derived  the  name,  and,  origi- 
nally, the  style.  The  principal  manufac- 
ture^ in  the  15th  century,  was  at  Tnca. 


The  clay  was  found  at  Puigpu&ent  and 
at  Estellenchs.  A  plate  of  the  Tnca 
manufacturo  may  be  seen  at  the  Museum 
of  Oluny,  Psris.  Tvisawas,  inthel7th 
and  18th  centuries,  a  good  porcelain- 
making  district. 

G^Myni|>Ay— tiM^^y— iStotMdL— The 
position  of  this  group  of  idandi  in  the 
Mediterraneanis  between  61*2a'89'lat, 
and 8* 40^88' long. W.Greenwich.  The 
islands  comprised  are— (1.)  Minorca,  or 
as  it  is  moro  usually  called,  Mallorca, 
capital  Pahna ;  pop  808,941.  (8.)  Me- 
norca,  cap  Mahon;  pop  86,114.  (8.) 
Yviza,  cap.  Yvisa;  pop.  88,171.  (4.) 
Formentera ;  pop  1680 ;  and  the  islets 
of  'Oabrera,  Dngonera,  Conejera,  etc  ; 
pop.  68 ; — ^making  a  total  popiilation 
of  868,898  (1860).  The  extent  \b  147 
squan  Spanish  lesgues.  Geologists  aro 
of  opinion  that  at  tiie  time  when  Africa 
and  Spain  formed  one  continent,  the 
Balearics  wero  also  part  of  the  Spanish 
present  Peninsula,  and  that  they  con- 
stitute the  prolongation  of  the  high 
range  of  hiUs  whi<^  traverses  the  pro- 
vince of  Alicante,  ending  at  the  Mongo 
Hill  and  Gape  San  Martin,  and  from 
which  they  wero  severed  by  some  vio- 
lent dislocation  first,  and  then  gra- 
dually became  further  apart  thnnigh 
series  of  submarine  convulsions.  That 
coqjecturo  would  appear  strengthened 
by  the  fact  adduced  by  Sr.  Bover— vis. 
that  the  direction  followed  by  the  two 
watersheds,  formed  by  the  range  of 
mountains  which  divide  the  islands, 
corresponds  with  that  of  the  hills  in 
Spain,  the  extremity  of  which  is  Gape 
San  Antonic  Also,  that  these  hiUs 
cross  Tvixa  st  Mallorca,  then  change 
their  course  towards  the  south,  stretch- 
ing along  a  line  that  abuts  direct  east 
of  Bugia  (Africa).  The  Balearics  would 
thus  form  a  link  of  the  chain  connect- 
ing Europe  with  Africa,  and  be  the 
point  of  its  intersection.  The  spon- 
taneous v^tation  and  soil  of  ttie  sontt 


344 


PALBiA  AND  BALBARIO  ISLANDS. 


portionB  bear  resemblance  to  thoee  of 
the  north  AfHcan  coast,  while  analogy 
has  been  noticed  between  galena  foond 
at  Yma  and  that  of  Almeria  and  Sierra 
Almagrera.  The  foeaila,  which  are  scat- 
tered all  oyer  the  islands,  are  of  great 
interest  There  are  some  mines,  mostly 
neglected.  Copper  is  found  at  Albarca, 
coals  at  Escorca  and  Binisalem,  rock- 
crystal  at  Estellenehs,  granite  at  Bu- 
lkol%  iron  at  Yalldemoea,  salt  in  great 
abundance  and  excellent  quality  south 
of  island  of  Cabrera ;  different  cobured 
marbles ;  coral  at  Alcudia,  etc 

The  soil  generally,  but  more  particu- 
larly that  of  Mallorca,  is  one  of  the 
most  fertile  in  the  world,  and  produces 
chiefly  com,  oU,  wine,  fruit,  hemp, 
flax,  and  some  silk.  The  orange^  lemon, 
and  date  trees  thrive  most  plentifully, 
though  the  latter,  which  has  given  its 
name  to  the  capital,  Palma,  is  not  cul- 
tirated  as  it  was  by  the  Moor.  Laven- 
der, maijoram,  rosenutfy,  and  other 
sweet-scented  plants  embalm  the  genial 
air;  and  firs,  holm-oaks,  and  olives, 
some  of  gigantic  sixe,  doUie  the  slopes 
of  hills.  The  Balearics  are  hilly,  ex- 
cept in  a  few  central  portions  of  Mal- 
lorca and  south  of  MeuOTca,  but  the 
hills  are  of  no  great  height,  the  prin- 
cipal altitudes  being  &e  following 
which  occur  mostly  in  Island  of  Mal- 
lorca : — ^Puig  Mayor  d'en  Torella,  dis- 
trict of  £sa>rca,  1463  metres  (about 
4798  Eng.  feet) ;  Puig  de  Massanella, 
dirt,  of  Selva,  1116  m.  (about  8682  Eng. 
a) ;  Puig  de  Qalatz6,  dist  of  Calvia, 
984  m.  ;  Coll  de  SoUer,  dist  SoUer, 
662  m. ;  Becde  Fenrutx,at  Aitk,  638  m. ; 
entrance  of  Grotto  of  Art4,  43  m.  In 
Menorca  the  highest,  the  Toro^  it  1227 
Eng.  ft,  according  to  line^  cited  by 
Sana,  but  must  be  nearer  4710  Eng. 
ft  (about  1470  m.),  according  to  more 
recent  authority.  The  islands  are 
•otntily  watered ;  the  principal  stream 
it  the  Bi^  at  PalnuL 


Climate. — ^The  climate  of  Palma— we 
mayalsoadd  thatof  SoUer—isamongthe 
most  temperate  in  Europe.  In  the 
latter  district  it  is  milder  and  more 
equable  than  anywhere  on  the  main- 
hmd.  Snow  is  most  rare,  and  when  it 
does  fall  never  lies  more  than  two  or 
three  days.  The  summer  heat  is  seldom 
excessive,  and  winter  may  be  said  not 
to  exist  The  S.  region  of  Mallwca, 
sheltered  from  the  violent  N.  winds  by 
the  range  of  lofty  hills  that  extend  N.E. 
to  S.W.,  ia  most  temperate  and  mild. 
During  winter  the  thermometer  but 
very  rarely  falls  below  7  cent  abom 
zero  (44*  Fahren.),  and  sea-breezes 
temper  the  air  in  summer.  The  heat 
is  nevertheless  occasionally  oppressive^ 
though  the  thermometer  never  reaches 
much  above  90*  Fahren. 

METEOROLOGY  OF  PALMA— 1867. 


MoDthi. 


1866 

DcOPIDCf 

1867 

Jamiary. 

rebniairy 

March 

April .    . 

May  .    . 

June  .    . 

July   .    . 

August    . 

Sepcrmber 

October  . 

Novdnber 
Winter  . 
Spring .  . 
Summer  . 
Autumn  . 
Year     .    . 


Temperature 
oTAir. 


Aver* 
age. 


138 

e.8 
3-S 

70 
«.5 

o 

il 

5-S 

li 

5.0 

tl 


'1 


Mud. 
tBua. 


98.4 

19.x 

•x-S 

SJ 

33.0 
33.6 

33-« 
35-3 

To 

«4-4 
aa.4 

33.0 

35  3 
34.0 

35*3 


MiDi> 


5-9 

U 

n 

ta.o 

i4.« 
10.  a 

xi.o 
9.0 
5.5 

3-4 
S-o 

»4-9 
5.5 

3-4 


"8 

I 


xa 

6 

S 

4 

•  • 

S 

t 

a 
to 

7 
7 

ao 

i 

«4 
61 


N.O. 

S.O. 

& 
S.O. 

S. 

S. 

S. 
S.O. 

so. 
s. 

N.E. 
N.E. 

S. 

S. 
S.O. 
N.E. 

S. 


The  luxuriant  growth  of  the  orange-tree 
and  date-palm  are  good  evidences  of 
the  state  of  the  atmosphere ;  indeed 

There  the  human  land 
Enjoy  the  eaaieat  life  ;  no  anov  la  diere, 
No  biting  winter,  and  no  drenching  Aowtr, 
But  Zephyr  ahrayt  gcndy  tnm  the  aea 
Braathea  on  thrfn.  lorefreah  the  happy  1 


FALMA  AND  BALEARIO  I8I4NDa 


345 


Tlie  dimate,  however,  differs  oonsider- 
ably  in  the  K.  region,  where  it  it  damp 
and  cold,  and  wind  storms  not  nnfre- 
qnent  The  more  common  diseases  are : 
intermittent  feyers^  catarrhs,  and  pul- 
monias  (pleurisy).  Mortality  at  Pabna, 
1  per  45— the  aTemi^e  of  Spain  being 
1-84.  The  worst  climate,  where  ague 
is  frequent,  is  found  in  district  of  Al- 
cudia,  owing  to  the  vicinity  of  marshes, 
which  might  be  easily  remored  if  de- 
sired by  the  inhabitants.  In  the 
island  of  Menorca,  though  the  tempera- 
ture is  still  higher  in  winter,  K.  winds 
are  rery  frequent,  and  spring  and  au- 
tumn subject  to  Tariation.  '  Though 
it  may  be  called  a  good  climate,  stUl, 
in  cases  of  consumption,  the  changes  of 
weather,  when  they  do  occur,  are  felt  a 
great  deal  more  even  than  in  England, 
owing  to  the  uncomfortaUeconstruction 
of  the  houses.  It  is,  howerer,  a  most 
agreeable  climate  in  winter  and  spring.** 
But  Boiler,  rather  than  Palma,  bidsfiDtir 
to  become  a  fayourite  resort  '  I  4on't 
know  that  I  ever  saw  a  country  that 
pleased  me  more  than  that  about  SoUer. 
I  hare  spoken  of  its  delightful  climate, 
and  its  grand  and  beautiful  scenery. 
The  former  must  be  well  suited  to  affec- 
tions of  the  throat  and  chest ;  and  the 
latter  offers  erery  inducement  to  exer- 
cise, and  much  to  please  the  eye  and 
soothe  the  feelings.' t  Sea-bathing  is 
dose  by,  and  ia  practicable  all  the  year 
round    The  climate  on  the  whole  is 

TrareUing.— The  largest  of  the 
three  prindpal  idands.  If  allorca,  is  the 
one  more  frequently  ridted.  But  they 
are  all  of  easy  access  by  means  of  lines 
of  steamers  which  ply  regularly  between 
Barodona,  Ydencia,  and  the  chief  ports 
of  the  Balearics.      In    the   int^or, 

*  This  iaformatioo  has  heen  kindly  comnnmi- 
cated  hf  H.B.M.'k  Consul  at  Palma,  Mr.  J. 
Considinc 


pretty  well-appointed  diligences  nm 
between  the  more  important  dties,  and 
the  roads,  where  any  exist;  are  beauti- 
fully constructed  and  well  kept  up. 
There  are  tolerably  good  inns,  koetale, 
where  drility,  deanliness,  good-will, 
and  moderate  charges,  make  up  for 
other  wants.  The  best  season  is  be- 
tween January  and  middle  of  June, 
i^id  winter  for  inraUds.  There  are 
dean  and  moderately-sized  houses  to 
let  about  Pdma  and  SoUer.  The  rent 
is  low,  and  frimiture  may  be  hired  at 
Palma  on  reasonable  terms.  From  20r. 
to  80r.  constitute  the  daily  expenses  at 
inns.  Tourists  will  in  general  confine 
their  attention  to  Malloroa,  which  is  the 
most  picturesque  and  more  easily  tnt: 
relied  of  the  whole  archipelago.  The 
'  lions'  are :  PcUmtif  with  its  cathe- 
dral, Loig'a  ;  SoUer,  noted  for  its  grand 
and  beautiful  scenery ;  Arid  and  its 
wondronsstalactite  grottoes ;  tbesoenery . 
about  Valldemosa  ;  the  oo«intry  rilla, 
called  dqueria,  of  Riga,  its  Tale  and 
museum,  and  those  of  Esporias  and  Al- 
fariL  Menorca  is  not  so  fiiTourably 
dtuated,  and  though  insufficiently  ex- 
plored, possesses  no  great  amount  of 
interest  Yviza  is  bleak  and  hilly,  with 
a  mild  climate,  but  utterly  roadless  and 
thinly  peopled.  The  rest  are  idets  of 
no  importance,  save  Formentera:  mostly 
deserted. 

Tourists  may  therefore  proceed  dther 
from  Ydencia  or  Barodona  by  steamers, 
which  leave  twice  a-week,  and  perform 
the  passage  in  about  14  to  16  hrs. 
Yidt  Palma,  making  it  head-quarters 
for  the  different  excurdoos  into  the  in- 
terior of  Mallorca,  such  as— 1,  Excurdon 
to  SoUer ;  3,  Lluchmayor ;  8,  Arti ; 
4,  Alcudia-all  by  diL  If  dedroos  to 
Tidt  Mahon,  embark  at  dther  Alcudia 
or  Palma,  and  by  steamer  to  Mahon, 
whence  1^  diL  to  Ciudadda,  crossing 
thus  in  a  few  hours  the  whole  island. 
There  is  also  a  steamer  between  Pdma 


346 


PALMA  AND  BALBARIC  ISLANDS. 


and  Trim.  No  pampori  !■  required. 
Tdte  one,  howerer,  or  tome  tabttitate 
parHaotuo, 

Mmu^,  IFtighta,  amd  iteMCfWL— The 
Spanlah  money  bet  been  introdnoed 
here,  m  well  m  weights  and  meMoret. 

A«<-Q^— The  Mme  regoUtione  m 
in  Spain.    Letten  leere  three  timet  »- 


T§l§gmjJk, — There  ere  fahmarine 
oehlct  between  Trixa  and  Yalenda^ 
MahoQ  and  Barcelona,  Trixa  and  Mai- 
loroa,  Malloroa  and  Hahon ;  and  in  the 
interior  between  the  pdndpal  towna — 
6S0  kiL  (766  m.)  of  submarine  cable  in 
aU.  Srt.  60e.  extra  for  erery  ten  woids 
are  paid  for  telegrams  by  these  cables. 
For  the  interior  as  in  Spain. 


oasawl  arha3t  ■unio—  were  paid  loTkcaanry 
fortndt  aad  twhatral  <MM&cCMii«)  '  Mb- 
adioft.'  Tkat  wum  ymr  ike  kbod  produced 
Sts.9«6  ftergii  of  com ;  3o6.«s5  ^acfa*  oT 
Wriey :  4*«wU9  ano^as  of  vefctables :  40»9^ 
•w.  oT  gnfMS :  tss.S93  •«  o'  »l«»od«;  3«,9»7 
at  rmi tr  i ;  M&'"ao  «r.  at  ic»  and 
:  S*  •"•  of  aOk  (aUs) :  »34.9}3  w-  of 
awl  a]»jo6  air.  of  oil :  vftiiie  a  i6av 
MaUacca  afeae  yielded  t^^ooo  tw  of  the  btter. 

■diu dttC  of  SoUer.  viiich 
froeft  iC*SooD  ocvi(es»  amd 
tmd  iCja^aoa  od.     TW  cnwrn^  tode  im  iSbo 
to  £9jOtpoo^    Tkere  it  aoai 


tntKeCc     The  island  of  Cooejccm  b  CBlMy 
peopled  with  labbics  (oo«X  haiea  {man), 
(aoko  tamra^ 


Vttll 

b«c  «f  b■'^ls  of  prvy  aad  v«K>a»' 

'  ioec''McvcA  aft  cuvAd  aa 

ifiTi  ■'4uO»riaa^.  Ac  r.*harc 

Oridka«9rt«i«>'«-^-^  -^< 


ISLAHD  OF  ICaLLOBOA. 

ICaUorca,  the  Roman  Balearica  M^jor, 
whence  its  present  name,  and  the 
Moorish  Maynrkih,  has  the  fonn  of  a 
trapezoid  square.  It  is  situated  belween 
Trixa  and  Menorea,  and  oorersa  smfroe 
of  586  square kila.  Distances:  ISO IdL 
from  Barcelona,  S56  from  Tunis,  and 
430  fi^om  Toulon.  Pop.  20S,9ti.  Gapi- 
td,  Palma,  often  called  P.  de  Mallorca, 
to  distinguish  it  from  that  of  Teneriffe, 
and  others.  The  principal  cities,  be- 
sides Palma,  are  Manaoor,  Alcndia,  Inca, 
and  Poneras.  The  coast  is  somewhat 
steep  and  abrupt  on  the  W.  side,  but 
low  and  sloping  towards  the  sea  ereiy- 
where  else.  The  chief  port  is  that  of 
Palma,  some  44  leagues  in  its  broadest 
part ;  secure,  thougfi  somewhat  ezpooed 
to  wards  the  a  W. ;  the  Rkn,  the  largest 
rirer  in  the  island,  has  oooskkfably  in* 
jured  the  bottom  of  the  bay,  so  that 
ships  are  obliged  to  anchor  off  the  La- 
xaretta  A  more  secure,  but  much 
neglected,  port  is  that  of  Porto  Pi,  dose 
by.  The  second  in  importance  i%  how- 
erer,  that  of  SoUer  ;  but  it  is  insecure, 
and  much  expooad  to  N.W.  and  K. 
wiudsL  The  Riera  rises  near  Pnigpu- 
beat,  and  faXU  into  the  sea  beneath  the 
j  ramparts  of  Palma  ;  and  though  almost 
'  dry  in  summer,  it  tv«lU  during  the 
ndny  seawn,  oocawwiing  frequent  inun- 
dati<ina 

PalBUL--Oipital  of  the  Bakarks  ; 
bishopric  ;  r»i%ieuc«  oXoapuiB-gcoeral; 
acttport.     PopL4i\ll& 

Boufa   and    OooTeonmees^  —  1. 

Fhm  Airorf  ■■mi — Exwli^at  steaBMr% 

j  En^ish  bailU  kttT«  Thimdayi  at  IS 

;  P.M.   and  SaturvUrs  as   7  ▲.)!.  ;   the 

former  lo«ch  on  li^ir  wi^y  at  Alcwdia, 

'  and  thrref^y«  amrr  a  ftm  homn  kter ; 

the  umal  tisw  n  U  hrs.     The  brm  : 

IsS  a,  IWt.  i  Ai  ci,  livV,;  Jd  cL.  «t 


PAUCA  AND  BALKARIO  ISLAMD& 


347 


DUtonce,  185  m.  2.  From  Faienda, 
— Same  company's  steamen  leare,  Mon- 
dayt  at  7  A.M.  direct^  and  on  Wednes- 
days at  8  P.M.,  toncbing  at  Triza^  thus 
causing  a  delay  of  10  his.  on  the  nsnal 
passage,  which  is  of  16  hra.  Fares  : 
1st  cL,  140r.;  2d  cl.,  lOOr.;  8d  cL,  60r. 
(for  steamer  to  Yalenda  or  Barcelona, 
see  those  names).  Distance,  40  leagues. 
8.  From  Mahon  (Menorca). — Leare  on 
Tnesdays  at  9  A.  M. ,  touching  at  Alcndia, 
and  Thursdays  at  12  p.m.  direct  Dis- 
tance, 100  m. 

Inna.— The  least  bad  is  Fonda  de  Las 
8  Palroos ;  then  come  F.  del  Vapor  and 
F.  de  loS  Cuatro  Naciones.  The  charges 
are  lower  than  at  Yalenda  or  Barcelona; 
12r.  a-day,  all  included.  Is  the  most 
moderate.  There  ia  a  decent  boarding- 
house  (casa  de  huespedes)  at  61  P<Mco6 
de  Santo  Domingo,  clean  and  comfort- 
able. 

Oeneral  Deaoription.  —  As  the 
steamer  approaches,  the  picturesque 
shores  of  Dea  come  first  witliin  riew, 
then  follow  the  rocks  of  Yalldemosa 
and  Ba&albufar  on  our  left ;  a  little  fur- 
ther. Cape  Groeer  and  part  of  La  Dra- 
gonera.  Hilly  Sante  Ponsa  rises  in  the 
distance  on  left ;  shortly  after  we  be- 
hold Capede  Gda  Figuera  adrandng 
into  the  sea ;  then  Cape  Blanco  on  our 
right;  and,  nearer  to  us,  on  left, 
Cape  Enterrocat  The  beautiful,  sleepy, 
sunlit  bay  is  now  entered.  We  pass  off 
Fort  San  Carlos,  and  the  Moorish-look- 
ing signal-tower,  built  shortly  after  the 
fall  of  Palma  by  order  of  D<m  Jayme ; 
then  comes  the  little  port  of  Porto 
Pi  on  our  left.  We  can  descry  the 
castle  of  BeUrer  rising  on  a  hUl,  and 
on  our  right  the  dty  of  Palma,  with  its 
pier  like  the  stem  of  a  Ian-like  palmita 

The  first  impression  is  both  striking 
and  pleasing.  Palma  rises,  amphi- 
theatre-like, on  the  gentle  slopes  of  the 
S.W.  portion  of  the  island,  facing  the 
wide^  open  bay  ;  the  pmnacled  turrets 


of  the  Ixmja  are  seen  peej^ng  from  be- 
hind the  bastion-flanked  walls,  which 
so  inelBdently  defend  the  dty  on  the 
sea  side ;  a  little  more  to  our  right,  and, 
the  most  prominent  feature,  standi  the 
grand  Catiiedral,  with  its  flying  arches, 
two  pinnaded  towers^  and  deep  but- 
tresses of  its  south  front,  a  fairy  fitbric, 
rising,  as  it  were^  Yenetian-like^  out  of 
the  sea.    Here  and  there  some  lottj  and 
deep-green  palms  may  be  seen,  inter- 
spersed amid  the  dusters  of  cupola- 
shaped  belfries  and  terraced  roofs  of 
houses  which  stand  out  in  somewhat 
dark  masses  against  the  not  distant  hills 
and  blue  Calabrian  sky.    Steep  ascents 
lead  into  the  town.     The  streets  are 
mostly  narrow,  winding,  ill-pared,  and 
sOent    The  houses  have  retained  many 
features  of  Moorish  taste,  senses  and 
mediteral  habits  of  living;  they  are 
mostly  low,  consisting  of  a  ground  floor, 
an  upper   one,   and  an  attic    (called 
pordio) ;  a  projectingroof,  spread  out  into 
pent-houses,  often  curiously  worked  out, 
shdters  from  the  rain  and  screens  from 
the  sun  the  porcho  bdow,  which  thus 
becomes  a  shady  gallery ;  the  rooms 
have  \o(tj  ceilings  ;  staircases,  not  un- 
frequently  of  great  artistic  merit,  are 
placed  in  the  entrance-hall  or  the  inner 
court — the  Moorish  patia     There  are 
some  interesting  houses  of  the  10th  cen- 
tury, but  km  earlier,  with  circular  por- 
ticoes and  agimes  windows.    Slender 
fluted  ahafls,  the  use  of  Tarnished  tiles» 
asulrjos,  the  ftshion  of  upper  galleries 
on  the  modd  of  those  of  La  Lm^ja,  are 
so  many  features  characterising  their 
style.    Examples  may  be  seen,  CalU  d$ 
la  Virgm  dt  la  Tela,  and  PUun  tU  Stm 
AnUmio;  visit  also  the  houses  of  Yivot, 
Bonaparte  etc      There    is,    however, 
about  the  whole  of  Palma  a  constant 
sense  and  si^^t  of  sflence  and  decay, 
which  is  rendered  still  more  striking  by 
the  contrast  of  the  few  but  beautiftil 
buildings  of  the  port,  that  bespeak  roag« 


348 


PALliA  AND  BALBABIO  ISLANDa 


nificenee,  trader  and  political  import- 

AI106. 

Sisht-Seaing— Cathedral;  Loiga; 
PriTate  Galleries. 

CitlclfiL— This  noUe  pile— an  elo- 
quent record  of  ICallorcan  greatness- 
was  bnilt  shortly  after  the  capture  of 
the  city,  by  Don  Jayme's  orders,  in 
the  year  1230,  on  the  site  of  houses 
whidi  were  a  portion  of  his  royal  booty, 
and  then  clustered  in  the  Almudayna, 
near  the  Gate  de  las  Gadenas.  The 
architect's  name  has  not  been  die- 
eoTered.  The  plan  has  been  ascribed 
to  Pisan  and  adao  to  ProTen^al  archi- 
tects, and  a  Mallorcan  oolebrated 
Maestro  de  Obras,  Jayme  Fabre,  has 
eren  been  supposed  to  have  directed 
portions  at  least  of  this  building.  The 
High  Chapel  was  begun  first,  and  com- 
pleted in  1282,  on  Don  Jayme's  third 
voyage  to  the  islands.  By  a  royal 
Older  of  July  1843,  King  Don  Pedro 
directed  his  treasurer  to  lay  aside  1000 
Barcelonese  sueldos  yearly  for  the 
work  of  '  La  Sao,'  ordering,  besides,  to 
sculpture  his  escutcheon  on  those  por- 
tions erected  with  his  monies.  To- 
wards the  end  of  14th  century,  when 
the  royal  subTcntion  had  come  to  a 
dose,  modifications  were  introduced  to 
obtain  cheaper  work  and  a  more  speedy 
completion.  Besides  yoluntary  contri- 
butions, the  zealous  dergy  collected 
large  sums  by  speculating  on  poor 
human  vanity,  in  the  decoration  of 
tombs,  and  granting  of  privileges  to 
stamp  private  arms  on  key-stones,  etc, 
selling  them  for  such  sums  as  18,287r. 
and  the  like.  The  work  was  completed 
in  1601. 

The  d^le  is  Gothio-Mallorcan,  with 
later  portions  bdonging  to  the  plater- 
esque.  The  width  is  140  Bug.  feet 
In  the  clear;  190  feet  including  the 
chapels.  It  is  rectangular  in  form, 
extending  east  to  west  Its  main 
characteristics  are— ^reat   simplidty; 


vast  proportions,  both  as  to  width 
and  hei^t;  broad  unbroken  naves — 
the  central  one,  howerer,  blocked  up 
by  the  choir ;  spareneas  of  light ;  sober- 
ness, we  might  add  meagreness,  in  the 
treatment  of  details  and  ornamentation. 
The  txUricr  is  full  of  massive  gran* 
deur.  The  prindpal  fixmt  is  to  the  W.» 
but  the  S.  front  is  the  finest  Its  door- 
way, called '  dd  Mirador,'  dates  1889,  is 
the  worii  of  Pedro  Morey  (ob.  1894),  and 
a  good  specimen  of  Mallorcan-Gothic ; 
full  of  elegance,  richness,  and  taste. 
Observe  the  broad  ogee^  and  the  deli- 
cately-carred  bases  round  the  outward 
archivolt,  called  by  Mallorcan  archi- 
tects 'la  gran  jamband;'  the  naive 
but  pioudy-inspired  niche  statuary — 
apostles,  prophets ;  and  angels  playing 
on  instruments  ;  over  the  arch,  a  figure 
of  our  Saviour.  The  doorway  is 
diridod  by  a  shaft,  with  a  statue  of  the 
Viigin.  The  tympanum  has  two 
rdievi ;  the  lower  one  has  for  sub- 
ject the  Lord's  Supper,  the  'upper 
one  the  Ddty  holding  the  Christ  before 
adoring  angds.  They  are  both  by 
Juan  deVdendennes,  1893-97.  TheN. 
door  is  called  'de  laAlmoyna.'  Ob- 
serve in  this  portion  the  quaint^  old, 
square  tower,  with  long-pointed  win- 
dows and  open-work  balustrade.  The 
W.  door  is  the  most  richly  decorated, 
and  a  good  example  of  the  plateresque  ; 
it  forms  a  series  of  ogivd  receding 
arches.    Oyer  the  door  is  the  inscrip.  : 

'NON  EST   FACTUM    TALE   OPUS  UNI- 
VSESIS    RKONIS    3     BSOUM    CAP.    X.' 

and  *  1601,'  the  date  of  its  completion. 
It  was  begun  1594.  A  shaft  diriding 
the  doorway  supports  the  escutcheon  of 
Mdlorca,  composed  of  four  quarters 
with  bars  of  Aragon  gules  on  or,  a 
castle  on  the  sea,  witib  a  palm,  the 
arms  of  Palma,  the  capital  On  the 
tympanum  a  pooriy -carved  statue  of  the 
Yiri^  The  sculpture  is  on  the  whole 
of  no  great  merit 


PALM\  AND  BALEARIO  ISLANDS. 


349 


The  interior,  though  hare  and  cold, 
la  rendered  impreaaiye  from  the  Taat 
proportiona ;  thna,  the  central  nare 
meaaorea  247  feet  from  the  door  to  the 
high  altar,  and  is  aome  147  feet  in  ele- 
vation. It  haa  neither  a  tranaept  nor 
an  apae,  and  ia  dirided  hy  two  rowa  of 
aeren  octagonal  piUara,  forming  three 
long  lofty  nayea,  which  do  not  meet 
hehind  the  high  altar  to  form  an  apae, 
but  finiah  in  an  aiale  with  three 
chapela,  one  of  which,  the  High  Chapel, 
forma  aa  it  were  another  nare. 

Thia  Capilla  Real  la  the  earlieat  and 
moat  intoroating  portion  of  the  oatho- 
draL  It  woa  fmbhed  1232,  and  ia 
aome  78  feet  long.  It  ia  richly 
decorated.  Eccleaiologiata  ahonld  no- 
tice the  andito  or  wooden  gallery 
all  ronnd  —  atrictly  Mooriah  work, 
though  of  Gothic  atyle,  and  once 
goigeoualy  gilt  and  painted.  Obeerre 
alao  the  windowa,  now  blocked  np^  and 
carved  pcndontiTca  aupporting  atatu- 
ettea  of  aainta  and  angela,  the  biahop*8 
marble  aeat,  and  ita  nicJie-work;  tiie 
andito— dosed  by  a  fine  Gothic  wooden 
railing,  with  excellent  reliero  scenes 
from  the  Ufe  of  the  Yiigin,  besidea 
sereral  statuettes  of  sainta  in  niches, 
and  in  the  centre  the  efSgy  of  the  Vir- 
gin under  a  richly -decorated  canopy. 
Aak  for  the  fine  ailrer  gilt  cuatodia.  A 
black  marble  aarcophagns,  heayy  and 
pagan,  ia  aeen  here.  It  \»  the  tomb  of 
King  Don  Jayme  II.,  raised  by  order 
of  Charlea  III.  in  1779.  The  me  vrin- 
daw  and  painted  glasa  in  the  cathedral 
ahonld  be  noticed.  They  are  the  work 
of  Fco.  Sacoma.  The  former  marble 
payemtet'  is  being  repaired,  and  the 
completion  of  the  building  pursued  by 
order  of  Goremment,  and  under  the 
able  direction  of  Sr.  Peyronnet. 

The  other  chapels  are  deroid  of  much 
interest ;  obserre^  howerer,  in  that  of 
Oorput  Chritti,  a  fine  early  but  iigured 
tomb  of  the  first  bishop  of  Mallorca, 


Torella,  a  boon  companion  of  Don 
Jayme,  ob.  1206.  In  C%ajp.  de  Sam 
Martin,  war  trophies  and  shields  of  the 
ICazella  and  P^jals  families.  In 
sacriaty  of  chapel  of  N,  Sra.  de  la 
Corona,  an  interesting  Gothic  tomb  of 
Bishop  Galiana.  Tbe  figures  and 
animals  were  formerly  painted.  In  the 
recess  of  the  niche  is  a  relieyo  with 
prieata  and  people  bewailing  the  good 
prelate's  death,  whilst  two  angels  are 
carrying  his  soul  to  heayen.  Compart- 
menta  in  front  of  the  tomb  are  also 
filled  with  minutely -canred  figurea  in 
doleful  attitudca.  It  datoa  1375.  In 
Chap,  de  loeSala*  ia  a  tomb  of  Marqu^ 
de  la  Romana,  head  of  one  of  the  eete 
Caeae  of  Mallorca,  the  cream  of  the 
local  nobility,  a  hero  of  the  Peninsular 
war;  erected  1811,  by  order  of  the 
Cortes  of  Cadiz. 

The  Chair  belongs  to  the  Gotho- 
plateresque  style,  and  has  two  rows  of 
walnut  canred  atolls.  Obserye  the 
arma  and  high  bocks  of  the  upper  row, 
with  relieyo  scenes  from  Soiptnre, 
angels,  etc.,  highly  finished  and  of 
great  variety.  The  stone  sculpture 
around  the  frascaro  is  the  most  modem 
part  of  the  '  Coro.  *  Look  at  the  statues 
of  San  Bruno  and  San  Juan,  brought 
here  from  the  Carti^a  of  Valldemosa, 
and  the  work  of  Adrian  Ferran  ;  and 
pictures  by  A.  Sacchi — ^the  Assumption 
and  Holy  Trinity.  The  pulpite  are 
plateresque ;  the  one  on  the  left  is 
reckoned  the  best ;  most  of  the  carving 
is  by  Sales,  1629.  Tht  Sola  OcynhUar 
is  of  Gothic  decline.  In  the  centre 
stands  a  fine  tomb  of  Bishop  MuAos, 
ob.  1447.  The  organ  is  of  no  great 
merit  as  an  instrument  The  pendentive 
is  crowned  with  a  hideoua  wooden  head 
of  a  turbaned  Moor,  part  of  the  white 
beard  ia  painted  red. 

Minor  Ohorohes.— There  are  few 
other  churches  of  note.  Though  Palms 
numbers  six  pariah  churches,  and  thon^^ 


350 


PALMA  AMD  BALBABIO  ISLAMDa 


tim  still  renudn  oot  of  the  twenty-four 
eooTents  which  existed  as  late  as  1835, 
wt  shall  mention  nerertheless — 

San  FtvMcUeo,  remarkable  for  its 
large  dimensions,  corioos  belfiy-tower, 
and  more  especiall  j  the  cloister,  which 
is  the  only  Gothic  work  of  the  kind  in 
the  island ;  it  is  original  and  striking, 
and  oonaisti  of  four  long  galleries  shaded 
by  a  projecting  roof  nssting  on  slender 
shafts.  It  is  surrounded  by  orange- 
trees.  The  church  is  of  one  nare,  long 
and  broad,  but  modernised.  Here  is 
the  late  Gothic  tomb  of  the  celebrated 
Mallorcan  worthy,  Ramon  Lull.*  It  is 
interesting  for  the  sculpture  and  like- 
ness of  its  alabaster  effigy. 

The  church  was  b^^  1281 ;  the 
cloisters,  1285  ;  Lull's  tomb,  1492. 

Sla,  .ffttZoZick^Gothic,  finished  1256 ; 
three  naves,  plain  and  good  proportions ; 
a  fine  rose-window.  Some  pictures  of 
Saoohis,  and  a  fine  Sta.  Eulalia  by  the 
native  Mezqnida.  Tlie  Hospital  of  Son 
Pedro  and  San  Bernardo  may  be  also 
hurriedly  examined. 

Iionja. — A  picturesque  and  typic 
building,  and  a  well-preserved  example 
of  Mallorcan  (query,  Italianised)  Go- 
thio  civil  architecture.  The  site  and 
money  to  defray  the  expenses  were 
granted  by  Don  Jayme,  1233,  to  the 
I^isans,  signing  a  ratification  of  the  con- 
vention passed  between  Count  Hamon 

*  This  good  and  learned  savant  was  bora  in 
Palaa.  lajs.  and  beloa(ed  to  the  court  and 
hottSchc4d  of  Jaynte  II.  In  his  youthful  days 
be  is  said  to  have  fallen  so  desperately  in  love 
with  a  Mallorquina,  that  neetinf  her  in  the 
street  «h»bt  b«  was  on  horseback,  be  followed 
ber  into  a  church :  nothing,  indeed,  could  cure 
bim  of  bis  pusioa  malh^ureuse  save  the  sight 
of  a  cancerous  breast  whKh  id  those  days  of  if- 
•M^nce  there  wm»  no  Madame  Rachd  to  enamel. 
TKu  doctor  ihwmiAJMio  was  truly  an  tnitfkttmttd 
aWhymut.  who  wro^e  several  cuhoos  books, 
MRKH^  »tuch  *  IV  Arte  Uafvuu*  pub.  at  Lyons, 
ijKH^  Sp^Mtfdk  ascnbe  to  bun  the  discovery 
of  Mtrtc  ackJU  and  be  is  satd  to  have  been  the 
hnt  to  nKauoa  the  auaukcr  s  omnpnw^  m  bis 
*  Ua  Contea^iiirR.«c.'  xrj*. 


Berenguer  IIL  and  the  Sepublic  of 
Pisa  in  1118,  with  sn  object  to  build 
an  Exchange.     It  was  designed  and 
btsgun  by  Antonio  Sagre^^  1426-1448, 
whose  son  Guillelmo  was,  towards  1420, 
'  Maestro  Mayor'  of  the  cathedral,  and 
who  engaged  to  build  it  for  a  sum  of 
22,000  libras,  to  which,  as  usual,  2500 
were  subsequently  added.    It  is  square 
in  plan,  with  four  octagonal  towers^ 
crowned  with  Moorish  indented  battle- 
ments flanking  the  angles;  these  are 
linked  to  each  other  by  a  charming 
open-work  gallery.      In  the  front  are 
two  exquisitely  designed  Gothic  win- 
dows, between  whidh  is  a  fine  door- 
way, with  an  enclosed  arch;  on  its 
tympanum,  a  huge,  ill-fashioned' angel. 
A  shaft  divides  the  ingress.     The  back 
facade  is  somewhat  similar.     The  in- 
terior, which  is  now  only  used  for  sub- 
scrijition    bulls,  etc,   is   striking   on 
account  of  its  oohstmctive  principle. 
Thus,  the  hall,  which  is  very  large, 
has  a  groined  roof,  whicli  is  supported 
by  only  four  slender   fluted   shafts; 
their  basements  are  slightly  marked 
out  by  the  diameter,  being  greater  than 
in  the  rest    The  arches,  palm-like,  rise 
freely,  very  slightly  bent    Some  of  the 
key-stones  are  decorated  with  angels^ 
Four  doors  at  the  angles.    The  floor  is 
paved  with  black  marble.   On  entering 
Palma,  Charles  Y.  is  said  to  have  been 
so  struck  by  the  appearance  of  this 
building,  that  he  spuired  on  his  horse, 
and  anxiously  inquired  whether  it  was 
Chui>ch  or  State  property.  He  could  not 
restrain  his   satisfaction  on    learning 
that  it  was  of  the  latter  deecnption. 

Tha  Town.HaU  {Catas  OomsuioH' 
aies)  is  an  indiflferent  building  of  the 
end  of  16th  century.  There  are  some 
pictures  inside ;  a  series  of  1  OS  portraits, 
mostly  daubs  of  Mallorcan  worthies; 
and  a  fine  Van  Dyck,  Sl  SelMtstiaB, 
which  was  brought  hcr»  by  I>ob  Bait 
Verger,  from  Madrid,  and  bequeatb^ 


FAUCA  AND  BALEARIO  ISLANDa 


351 


to  the  dty.  Notice  also  one  represent- 
ing the  foneral  of  Ramon  LnlL  There 
are  some  interesting  MSS.  and  an 
armorial  of  16th  centory)  containing 
the  arms  of  the  Bonapart  family — a 
spread  eagle,  stars,  and  lion  rampant 
The  Bonaparte  were  originally  a  Mai- 
lorcan  family.  Hugo  Bonapart,  a  native 
of  Mallorca,  was  sent  in  1411,  by  King 
Martin  of  Aragon,  as  governor  of  Cor- 
sica. Bonaparte  is  the  old  Italian, 
Buonaparte  the  modem  Italian,  and 
Bonapart  the  Mallorcan  spelling.  There 
are  also  some  yery  early  charts. 

Oastle  of  BellTer.  — Half-a-leaguo 
from  Palma.  This  old  fortress  stands 
picturesquely  on  a  height  which  the  sea 
washes  on  the  left.  The  highest  tower, 
its  most  prominent  feature  as  one  ap- 
proaches, is  the  Torre  del  Homenage. 
The  fortress  is  circular  in  plan,  and 
apparently  strong  and  massiye,  but  fast 
crumbling  down.  The  Castle  de  Bell- 
Ter, the  former  Pulcro  Visio^  or  Belvi- 
dore,  is  so  called  from  the  extcnsiTe 
view  it  commands.  It  was  erected  by 
Jayme  II.  to  defend  that  part  of  the 
island.  The  works  began  in  18th  cen- 
tury, Pedro  Salva  directing  them  in 
1809.  In  after  years  it  was  turned  into 
a  state  prison ;  and  its  dungeon.  La 
Hoya,  has  witnessed  many  an  iigustice, 
and  scene  of  woe  and  horror.  Jovel- 
lanos,  the  learned  Asturian  writer,  was 
sent  here  in  exile,  a  victim  to  court 
intrigues.  Arago,  who  had  come  to 
Mallorca  in  1808  to  measure  the  meri- 
dian of  the  castle,  was  kept  a  prisoner 
here  during  two  years.  The  patio  and 
Gothic  arched  gallery  are  interesting 
and  quaint  in  style. 

There  are  two  or  three  fine  modem  and 
well-organised  hospitals :  La  Casa  de  le 
Misericordia,  a  poor-house;  a  found- 
lings' hospital ;  and  the  Hospital  Gene- 
ral, which  is  also  a  lunatic  asylum.  We 
may  also  mention  the  pretty  Alameda^ 
the  charming  walk  along  the  ramparts, 


from  which  the  view  over  the  bay  is 
very  beautiful ;  the  Plaua  dei  CcrU, 
i^eBam,  There  are  some  pictures  to  be 
seen  at  the  Academia  de  Biellas  Artes— 
a  MS.  catalogue.  Among  others,  a  fine 
San  Sebastian,  by  Mesquida ;  a  power- 
fuUy  painted  'Christ  in  the  Desert,'  by 
Bestard,  mentioned  by  Cean  Bermudes ; 
a  very  curious  one  of  16th  century, 
painted  in  the  distempered  style,  repre- 
senting the  legendary  foundation  of  a 
Carthusian  convent,  by  King  Don 
Martin,  ascribed  to  M.  Ferrando ;  and 
several  Junoosas,  P.  J.  Ferrer,  etc. 

We  may  also  mention  to  picture 
amateurs  the  private  gallery  of  Conde 
de  Montenegro,  seen  with  a  card  easUy 
obtained  on  application  to  the  mayor- 
domo  of  this  nobleman,  the  owner,  too, 
of  the  alqueria  and  museum  of  Raxa— r 
whence  most  of  the  pictures,  curiositiee, 
coins,  etc.,  here,  have  been  transferred. 

No.  s.  Banqnedog,  hj  B.  Veenmz,  t66o: 
excellent  peiipectiire  and  chiaroiciiro.  No.  ta 
A  bodacnpe,  by  H.  Swaneveldt,  \6^  Noa. 
la  and  at.  Fine  tapestriea  with  subject,  SS. 
Pfeter  and  Paul ;  said  to  be  the  veiy  first  of  the 
kind  made  in  Pftris ;  signed  G.  Simooet,  Puigi, 
1711.  It  was  a  present  to  P<^  Pins  VL  Na 
ao.  Dninkards  Asleep,  by  C  Bocfen.  No.  s8. 
An  English  Pkric,  initials  A.  S.,  on  wood.  Nos. 
41  and  53.  Two  early  oil  paintings,  with  mystic 
subjects,  by  G.  Beach.  Nos.  60  and  6a.  SS. 
Peter  and  Paul,  by  Gnido  ]lenL  Na  63.  A 
good  Ribera,  San  Gerooimo.  Na  71.  A  fine 
portrait,  ascribed  to  Van  Dydc  Nos.  87  and 
88.  Goats,  by  Salr.  Rosa.  Na  89.  Holy 
Family,  by  Andrea  del  Sarto ;  fine.  Na  xoo 
The  'Beato'  Joan  de  Ribera,  by  Ribalta. 
Na  11&  A  female  portrait,  by  Robens,  to 
whom  is  ascribed  Na  119^  the  Miracle  of  the 
Loaves.  No.  isi.  On  paper,  an  interesting 
sketch  of  M.  Angeky's  subject,  the  Three 
Cardinal  Virtues.  Na  183.  An  exquisite  por- 
trait of  a  female,  by  Van  Dydc  Na  133.  Por- 
trait of  Poet  Aretin,  by  Titian.  Na  14a.  A 
mystic  subject,  ascribed  to  Juan  de  Juanes,  and 
▼aluable.  Na  143.  Portrait  of  Rubens,  by 
Van  Dyck  (?>  Na  146.  Portrait  of  thb  hitter, 
by  himself;  full  of  youth  and  hie :  small  eyes 
beaming  with  intellect.  Na  147.  A  young 
woman's  portrait,  by  MyrerelL  Na  149-  T** 
Virgin,  ascribed  to  Zurbaraa.    The  Vifgia  kcks 


353 


PAUCA  AND  BALKABIO  ISLANDR. 


gnoe  and  nnwiim ;  die  oolooriag  it  woflhy 
of  that  master.  Na  x68.  Holy  Panulr*  m- 
oibed  to  Raphael,  etc  etc  The  hlifary 
contamt  wtMoy  laie  MSS.  and  works  rehmre 
to  die  history  and  monastery  of  Mallofca;  see 
die  pafchflseat  chart  drawn  np  1499  ^  Gabriel 
Valbeca,  with  an  antofiaph  of  Vcapocdo's. 
Then  are,  besides,  some  good  paintingB  in  the 
private  faDery  of  Casa  AriaBy  (a  portrut  of 
Rembrandt,  by  himself);  Casa  Armengol  (a 
San  Cosme  and  San  Damian),  by  Van  Dydc, 
etc  There  are  some  good  libraries :  diose  of 
Mowtesioo,  the  Bishopffic,  Count  of  Ayamoos, 
Sr.  Caod^MW.  etc 

There  Is  a  tolerably  good  Plasa  de 
TonMi  not  much  frequented  bj  the 
HtUorctngentrj ;  atheatre  %nd  acadno. 

OtmtuU—ff,  B,  ir.'«— J.  R.  Onbam, 
Eeq.  No  Chorcb  of  England  aenrice. 
U.  8.  of  Afneriea^Sr,  Fiol,  V.C.,  15 
Calle  de  la  Almndayna.  Fremee — M. 
Denois,  82  Calle  de  la  Concepdon. 

Poti  OJtoa— Calle  San  Bartolom^ 
82.  Open  daOj  till  2  P.M.  Letten  to 
Spain  leaTe  i  times  a-week — Sundays, 
Tuesdays,  Thundays,  and  Saturdays. 
Tel6f^lihOJIee,^4^  C.  de  San  Miguel, 
open  always.  Telegnpbs  sent  to  Yyiza, 
Pollensa,  Inos,  Alcudia ;  Mabon,  Ciu- 
dedel%  by  a  submarine  cable ;  and  to 
Spain,  vid  Valencia,  by  a  submarine 
cable. 

Banken. — Mess.  Canut  k  Mngnerot 

Dodon. — 0.  Gonzalez,  L.  Muntaner. 

Excursions. 
1st  roi2(va(or/?dza).— ATisittotbis 
pretty  and  interesting  Mallorcsn  country 
mansion  should  not  be  omitted ;  dis- 
tant fit>m  Palma  seyen  miles  ;  conyey- 
ances  take  up  the  diL  going  to  SoDer.  A 
card  from  mayordomo  of  the  proprietor, 
Sr.  Conde  de  Montenegro,  is  requisite, 
and  easily  obtained.  Alqueria,  from  the 
Arab  Al-Karia,  literally  means  '  a 
cluster  of  Cum -bouses,'  and  by  exten- 
sion, a  Tilla  or  country  mansion.  Riga 
Is  situated  on  tbe  slopes  of  a  bill. 
Csidinal  Despuig,  an  ancestor  of  the 
Count,  purchased  st  Aricda,  near  Al- 
bano,  some  lands  wbere  unsucoessfril 


exosTations  bad  been  carried  on  foi 
years,  and  at  tbe  coat  of  a  wbole  fortune^ 
by  Mr.  Garin  Hamilton,  a  well-known 
Sootcb  antiquary.  Tbe  Cardinal  waa, 
boweyer,  mora  fortunate,  and  was  able 
to  oollect  sereral  important  antiquities, 
wbicb,  together  with  many  mora  he 
purchased  in  Rome,  were  brought  here 
and  tastefully  arranged.  The  best 
statues  are  placed  in  the  hall  (el  Peris- 
tflo).  Obserye  more  particularly — 1. 
St  of  Esculapius,  said  to  be  anterior  to 
Roman  Empire.  2.  Caligula.  8.  A 
bust  laiger  than  life,  said  to  be  that  of 
Diogenes,  discoyered  near  the  Appian 
Way,  and  excellent  4.  A  oolosaal 
Emperor  Nenra.  7.  A  Roman  Gladia- 
tor, fuD  of  rigour  and  spirit  There 
are  besides  several  Roman  inscriptions, 
etc.  In  the  Sal<m  Principal, — Portrait 
of  Cardinal  Despuig.  6.  A  Cupid, 
supposed  to  be  a  copy  of  the  bronze  by 
Lysippus.  11.  A  pretty  bronze  deer — 
probably  Greek  work.  10.  A  curious 
statue,  probably  that  of  ApoDo  Saurec- 
ton  or  lizard-killer.  18.  Silene.  20. 
Very  fine  group  of  Hippolytus  engaged 
in  the  chase.  22.  A  msgnificent  head 
of  Cfltsar  Augustus,  considered  the  gem 
of  the  whole  collection.  28.  Apollo^ 
in  paros  marble,  by  the  sculptor  of  tbe 
Apollo  BeMdere— discovered  near  the 
Appian  Way.  88.  An  excellent  Bac- 
chus 'ever  fair  and  ever  young.'  86. 
Alcibiades,  one  of  the  best  here. 
Several  interesting  relievi,  etc 

OdbituU, — Small  bronzes,  statues, 
urns,  and  a  complete  collection  of  bronze 
idols.  In  the  chapel  some  paintings 
of  no  great  value.  The  grounds  around 
are  well  laid  out  and  planted  with  aloes, 
cactus,  palms,  etc.  The  riews  from  the 
Mirador  are  grand  and  extensive. 

There  are,  besides,  two  other  alque- 
rias  ;  that  of  Alfavia,  close  to  BuAol% 
8  miles  frt>m  Palma,  with  vestiges  of 
the  former  Moorish  rilla  ;  and  that  of 
Esporlas,  the  property  of  Sr.  Fortu&y, 


PALBIA  AND  BALEARIC  IBLANDa 


353 


and  a  fayonrite  summer  resort  with 
Palmerans,  some  pretty  gardens,  water, 
frnit-trees.  Close  by  the  botanist  may 
yisit  the  Botanic  Garden  6f  Coll  d*en 
PortelL 

To  SoUer.    Pop.  4647  ;  of  district, 
8058.    N.E.ofMallorca. 

Tnn. — Fonda  de  la  Paz,  dean  and 
decent  Distance,  8)  Spanish  leagnes 
(abont  21  English  m.),  daily  diligence, 
leaving  Palma  at  2  p.m.,  anive  8}  at 
BoAola,  and  at  6)  at  SoUer.  A  berlina 
seat,  8r. ;  interior,  6r. ;  a  bangnette,  5r. 
An  excellent  road.  The  country  bean- 
tiAiL 

SolUr,  one  of  the  lions  of  Mallorca, 
is  most  picturesquely  situated,  nestled 
under  the  shelter  of  some  high  hills, 
amid  orange -grores,  imparting  sweet- 
ness to  the  air  and  rich  colouring  to 
the  plains.  The  rale  of  Seller  is  the 
district  of  Mallorca  the  most  famed  for 
beauty  and  fertility.  It  is  some  12 
miles  in  extent,  and  basin-shaped,  with 
an  opening  to  the  N.W.,  through 
which  a  thin  sheet  of  water  flows  into 
the  Mediterranean.  But  besides  the 
scenery,  which  is  grand  and  beautiful, 
there  is  little  here  to  attract  the  sight- 
seeing tourist  The  parish  church  is 
indiflerent,  with  a  statue  of  Saint  Bar- 
tholomew by  a  Neapolitan  sculptor. 
There  are  fossils  dose  by,  at  Muleta 
and  Lofre,  and  silver  and  copper  mines, 
which  are  being  aotiyely  worked.  The 
walks  around  are  Taried  and  beantifuL 
It  is  perhaps  grandest  at '  El  Barranco,' 
a  wild  glen,  4-lc>gQ0  ^ro>n  SoUer,  and  at 
Oorch  Blaa  and  its  blue  water  stream. 
Puig  Mayor  may  be  ascended  from  this 
■ide^  by  taldng  a  path  across  el  X/ucA, 
whose  conrent  may  be  seen  on  the  way. 
A  guide  is  necessary,  but  the  asoent  is 
an  easy  one,  and  the  view  from  the 
summit  repays  the  trouble  and  fatigue. 
The  great  holiday  here  takes  place  on 
11th  May,  a  great  gathering  of  pretty 
atlotas  and  fadrinas  (peasant  girls). 

2 


T0  VmUdemanu—kBL  ttuf  day't  rid«  or 
wyJk  from  Pdnui :  distmnce,  s}  lokgoea.  The 
town,  saoo  iiUuib.,  k  quite  ioaigi^ficuit,  bat 
the  scenery  around  u  most  strildng.  As  one 
■pproeches,  the  road  becomes  narrower,  more 
winding  and  steep ;  then  enters  a  small  ymOfty, 
from  which  a  good  view  is  obtained  of  the  litde 
town  rising  on  the  decUrities  of  a  hiU.  Half- 
way  stands  iht  old  Carthusian  convent,  amid 
an  Arab-Italian  landsca4)e.  The  conyent  itself 
is  not  interesting,  save  for  its  assodadons  with 
die  past  history  of  iho  island.  The  old  diurch 
has  a  narrow  nave  and  Gothic  altar.  'The  more 
modem  portion  is  of  the  classic  style,  crudlbrm, 
with  a  good  plain  choir.  There  are  some  pretty 
good  fresco  ceilings  by  a  Carthusian,  Fray  M. 
Bayen.  The  convent  was  founded  1999  by 
King  Don  Martin,  on  the  site  of  his  castle,  and 
consecrated  May  8,  1446,  but  subsequently 
(1737)  enlarged.  It  was  the  first  residence  as- 
signed to  JoveOanos.  Georges  Sand  Kved  also 
here  some  time,  and  wroto  '  Spiridioo. 

To  Arid,  Distance,  ii|Spanish  leagues  (45 
mtlesX  XaowLa  Fonda  Grande ;  decent  By 
diL,  which  leaves  Palma  daily  at  a  p.m.,  stops 
at  Alguida  at  4I ;  gets  to  Montuira  at  6,  Vilb- 
fmnca  6|,  and  Monacor  j^.  The  road  b  good 
and  well  kept.  The  country  is  destitute  of  in- 
terest ;  the  villages  one  meets  are  small  and 
insignificant  Monacor  is,  however,  the  largest 
town  in  Mallorca,  next  to  tht  capital ;  pop. . 
i9,59&  Geologists  should  visit  the  'Gala  de 
S'homo  Mort,'said  to  contain  huomn  fossils 
incrustated  in  the  rode  Slneu,  in  the  vicinity, 
is  also  fiiU  of  foasils. 

A  guide  b  required  to  visit  the  grottoes. 
About  two  hours'  walk  to  Au  emvm*,  or  rad»er 
La  Cueva,  for  the  two  former  natural  caves  have 
been  recently  connected.  The  entrance,  im 
A0(M,  overiooks  the  sea.  The  approadi  b  by  a 
steep  path  cut  out  of  a  precipitous  mass  of  lime- 
stone. The  last  part  of  the  ascent  b  by  a 
flight  of  stqia.  The  entrance  b  strikingly 
formed  by  an  archway,  140  ft.  hi^  on 
issuing  horn  wfaidi,  a  slippery  descent  takaa 
place,  and  upon  a  rocky  emincnre  a  white 
statue  b  seen  standing  sentry  over  the  subter- 
raneous palaces  Lamps  are  required.  The 
chambers  in  these  are  at  different  levcb,  but 
they  have  been  racendy  connected  by  stooe 
steps  or  woodenjstancases,  and  there  is  nowhere 
the  sl^htest  danger.  As  one  advances  Anther 
in,  the  sfahwtitrt  beoooM  mnra  Bumeroos  and 
beautiluL 

The  owmbefs  are  numerous,  with  dhtoictive 
names  acoordiag  to  their  diaiacter.  sodi  as  tha 
•Nmli  ^  tht  Virgm*  the  * Bm^tutry:  the 
*HmU0/iktOfjtm:  The  last  so  caOed  froa 
the  curious  naturaDy-uiaped  pipes,  which,  ca 


354 


PALMA  AND  BALBABIO  ISLAMDa 


the  BMst  woadcHbl 
in  die  world,  and  wdl  dcaenre  a  risiL  In  the 
vicinity  of  Arti  ate  the  ague^ieediag  maidies 
de  la  Albufien ;  in  the  Convent  of  Obaenrantes 
BOOM  pictores  by  Meaquida  and  Bcstard ;  ■€▼«»] 
curiooa  plants;  and  near  a  former  oak-fore«t, 
two  interesting  tuinnh,  niuch  injiired.  In 
Arti's  parish  chnrch  a  good  copy  of  R^^hael's 
Tnnsfigmatioo  by  Me«|oida,  A  very  early 
convent  at  BePpnu. 

The  islets  of  Bngonerm  and  Onbreim 
(Ooftt  UUnd)  are  bleak  and  miiiitereat- 
ing^  almost  deserted. 


Island  of  ICenoroa. — The  second 
largest  island.  Pop.  (18«0)  86,114  in- 
haUtants.  The  island  is  the  most 
eastern  of  the  Balearics.  It  is  some 
33  m.  in  length,  and  IS  m.  in  its  broad- 
est part  It  is  some  24  miles  distant 
from  the  nearest  point  of  Mallorca, 
and  aboat  190  milea  from  Bugia.  The 
sorfaee  is  not  so  hiUy  as  that  of  Mal- 
loroa.  The  hi^est  hills  being  in  the 
centre^  where  Monte  Toro  reiches  a 
hei^t  of  4793  Eng.  ft,  crowned  by  a 
conrent,  to  which  frflgrimages  are 
made.  There  are  some  minerals^  soch 
as  iron,  lead,  copper ;  and  qnarries  of 
marbles  and  alabaster.  Some  excellent 
game  in  winter,  consisting  of  wood- 
cock%  snipes,  teal;  sererid  kinds  of 
fish,  oysters,  and  lobsters.  The  scenery 
is  tamer,  aii^  on  the  whole^  inferior  to 
that  of  Mallorca.  The  dimiate,  except, 
perhaps,  in  the  district  of  Mahon,  is 
eertainly  not  to  be  compared ;  riolent 
winds  sweeping  fluently  OTer  the 
island,  which  is  not,  like  Mallorca, 
endoeed  on  all  sides  by  lofty  hills; 
and  the  Tiigetation,  a  sure  guide,  not 
so  rich  and  yaried.  In  dreu,  appear- 
ance, and  the  rest,  Menorcansdifier  little 
fhmi  the  inhabitants  of  Mallorca.  A 
somewhat  protracted  English  dominion 
has,  howeyer,  left  traces ;  and  there  are 
habits  of  order,  cleanliness,  etc,  which 
are  not  so  obsenraUe  in  the  more  im- 
portant isU     Bat,  except  for  the  mag- 


I  nificent  harboor  of  Mahon  and  EngUsb 
I  associations^  there  is  little  here  to  inyite 
aToyage. 

It  was  in  1708  that  Earl  8tanllop^ 
with  8000  British  troopa,  attacked 
Mahon,  and  by  shooting  arrows  into  the 
town,  to  which  were  affixed  threatening 
alips  of  paper— threats  supported  by 
deidMf  not  wordi  only— obtained  the 
surrender  of  the  island.  The  English 
retained  possession  till  1758^  when  it 
fell  into  the  hands  of  the  French  through 
the  failure  of  Admiral  Byng  to  relieye 
the  island.  Twice  more  it  became  an 
En£^ish  possession,  and  in  1782  there 
was  eyen  a  project  of  ceding  Menorca 
to  Russia  (Cox's 'Mem.  Kings  of  Spain,' 
yoL  y.  p.  99).  The  most  important 
siege  Mdion  eyer  sustained  waa  that  of 
Ang.  1782,  when  it  waa  heroically  de- 
fended by  the  English,  under  the  gallant 
high-minded  General  Murray,  and  Tigo- 
rously  attacked  by  the  corniced  forcea 
of  France  and  Spain,  under  the  Duke 
of  Crillon.  Ciudadela  and  Fomella, 
the  arsenal  and  nayal  stores  of  Mahon 
itself^  were  seized,  and  the  British 
goyemor  compelled  to  withdraw  to 
Fort  St  Philip;  that  sudden  success 
being  secured  by  prenous  intrigues  with 
the  islanders,  and  the  sudden  landing 
of  oyerwhelming  foroesL  To  ayotd  a 
tedious  siege^  CriUon  was  ordered  to 
tempt  the  fidelity  of  General  Murray 
with  the  offer  of  £100,000.  'When 
your  braye  ancestor,'  replied  General 
Murray,  'was  desired  by  his  Soyereign 
to  assassinate  the  Duke  of  Guise,  he 
returned  the  answer  which  ym  should 
haye  returned  when  the  King  of  Spain 
charged  you  to  assassinate  the  character 
of  a  man  whooe  birth  is  as  illustrious 
as  your  own,  m  that  of  the  Duke  of 
Guise.'  After  a  protracted  defence,  the 
magazinea  and  hospitals  were  fired,  and 
the  English  offered  a  capitulation.  It 
was  finally  ceded  to  Spain,  1802,  by  the 
treaty  of  Amieos. 


PALMA  AND  BALBABIO  ISLANDa 


355 


The  principal  cities  are  Port  Mahon 
and  Cindadela. 

Malion.-Pop.  18,688.  A  Ushop'a 
aee  and  nayal  oomandanda.  Chmmuni- 
eating  with  BarceUma  by  steamer,  touch- 
ing at  Alcudia,  leaving  Thursdays  at 
2  P.M.  lehrs.  With  iWma  on  Tues- 
days at  8  A.M.,  100  miles. 

This  ancient  city  was  founded  by  the 
Carthaginian  Magon,  702 -B.a,  and 
called  Portus  Mogonis.  During  the 
95  years  it  remained  in  the  possession 
of  England,  Mahon  became  a  very  pros- 
perous and  important;  one,  indeed, 
of  the  most  trading  in  the  Mediterra- 
nean. But  since  the  peace  of  Amiens, 
when  it  went  back  to  Spain,  its  trade 
and  importance  have  alike  disappeared, 
being  now  almost  entirely  limited  to 
coasting  and  fishing.  The  city  lies 
picturesquely  at  the  bottom  of  a  deep 
and  narrow  bay  some  84  miles  in  length, 
and  rises  on  a  hill  overlooking  the  port 
and  harbour.  All  is  silence,  decay,  and 
backwardness.  The  streets  are  ill  pared, 
but  clean  comparatively  to  those  of 
Palma,  and  free  from  evil  smells.  The 
terraced  houses  are,  many  of  them,  unin- 
habited, though  tastefully  built ;  others 
are  constructed  on  the  English  model 
—most  unsuited  to  this  climate. 

The  port  is  one  of  the  best  in  Europe, 
secure  and  capable  of  affording  shelter 
to  the  laigest  fleet  of  line-of-battle 
ships.  It  deserves  Andrea  Doria's  say- 
ing that  'the  best  Mediterranean  ports 
are^  June,  July,  August,  and  Port  Ma- 
hon.* Within  the  harbour  are  four 
rocky  islets,  on  one  of  which  a  military 
hospital  is  built ;  on  another,  a  specinl 
establishment  for  quarantine,  etc  The 
arsenal,  naval  storehouses,  and  forts 
were  mostly  English  works.  There  is  an 
indifferent  church  ;  a  pretty  Alameda. 
Envinms, — ^Thc  priucipol  environ  is 
CHudadela.  A  dil  leaves  daily  at  2  p.m., 
stopping  on  the  way  at  Alayor,  Merca- 
dal,  and  Ferrerias ;  distance,  about  27 


English  miles.  The  whole  island  is 
crossed  in  all  its  length ;  the  road  is 
good  and  the  work  of  General  Kane, 
1718,  to  whose  memory  the  Menorcans, 
fully  alive  to  the  advantages  of  English 
rule^  have  raised  a  monument  recording 
the  hct  The  scenery  is  not  interest- 
ing. Alayor,  4600  inhab.,  is  a  poor 
decayed  city  with  a  good  dimate ;  Uiere 
are  some  early  pictures  in  its  parish 
church.  Mereadalj  2620  inhab.,  a  dirty, 
waterless,  unwholesome  city.  In  the 
vicinity  is  the  hill  Del  Toro»  and  the 
much-reverenced  Monasterio  de  Santa 
Agueda,  and  now  through  an  ill-culti- 
vated, flat  country,  and  desolate  Ferre- 
rios,  we  reach  CwdadOa,  7840  inhabi 
This  former  capital  of  Menorca  lies  on 
its  W.  coast,  is  surrounded  by  strongly 
fortified  walls,  and  possesses  a  good 
port,  though  small  and  somewhat  ilial- 
low,  at  whose  extremity,  on  the  right, 
stands  Fort  San  Nicolas.  Not  far  from 
the  latter,  in  the  midst  of  some  huge 
rocky  nuisses,  are  two  caverns  in  which 
the  sea  is  engulphed.  The  noise  pro- 
duced has  been  likened  to  the  blow  of 
a  forge,  whence  its  local  popular  appel- 
lation '  El  Fuelle  del  Diab^ '  the  De vil*s 
Blow.  About  2  miles  a  is  La  Gruts 
de  Perella,  a  curious  grotto  with  stalac- 
tites. The  Gothic  cathedral  has  one 
lofty  broad  nave,  and  dates  1860.  It 
is  flanked  by  a  fine  square  tower  with 
an  octagoQ  steeple,  and  deserves  to  be 
better  luiown.  There  are  besides  seve- 
ral convent  churches,  barracks,  etc,  of 
no  interest. 

ISLAND  OF  yVIZA. 

PopI£^lItt<7f^  22,171.  Capital,  Yviza— 
the  laigest  of  the  Pithyusn  ;  distant 
42  mUes  S.W.  from  Mallorca.  It  is 
about  27  miles  long  from  N.E.  to  a  W., 
and  16  mOes  in  its  greatest  breadth. 
The  soil  is  generally  hilly  and  stony  ; 
the  hiUs  are  covered  with  timber  trees. 


i5e 


SALAMANCA. 


tnd  their  sammita  crowned  by  watch- 1 
towen.  There  is  some  briik  trade  ia 
aalt,  which  ia  ezoellent  The  ialandera 
wear  a  red  wooUen  cap,  and  the  '  Spar- 
tillea'  shoes.  This  island  was  the 
Roman  Ebnras  and  Moorish  Jevitzah. 
It  is  now  thinlj  peopled,  poorly  colti- 
rated,  and  divided  into  four  'cnar- 
tones'  or  qnarters : — 1.  The  city  and 
itsTicinity;  2.  Balanxar;  8.  PormaAy; 
4.  Las  Salinas,  or  Salt-Pans. 

TTla»-Pop.  6661— The  capital  and 
only  city  of  any  importance,  is  bnilt 
on  a  rooky,  nigged  hilL  The  port  is 
pretty  good  and  sheltered ;  the  streets 
are  steep  and  ill  paved ;  and  the 
.churches,  mostly  erected  in  the  18th 
century,  devoid  of  all  interest  There 
is,  however,  a  cathedral  of  some  import- 
ance, two  hospitals,  etc.  There  are  no 
roads,  save  that  from  the  Salt-pans  to 
the  port  The  islets  aronnd,  little 
more  than  masses  of  rock%  are  almost 
ezdosively  abandoned  to  wild  goats 
and  rabbits,  the  latter  peopling  Babbit 
Islsnd,  La  Conejera. 

Island  iff  Ibrmentera, — Pop.  1020 
inhabitants,  e  miles  a  of  Yvisa.  13 
mites  long  W.  to  £.,  and  10  broad. 
The  houses  are  scattered  in  the  country 
and   upon  the  coast     It  derives  its 


name,  Forment^  French  Froment  (Fro* 
mentum),  from  the  great  quantity  of 
com  which,  considering  its  size,  it 
produces.  A  few  wild  goats  and  sheep 
roam  about,  and  on  its  shore  are  seen 
numerous  flamants. 

B00ks  ^  Rt/ertmet.'^x,  Miguel  de  Vargas, 
'  Descripciooet  de  les  Ulaa  PUiusas  y  Balearica.' 
Madrid,  1787. 

a.  S.  B.  Laurent's  '  Souvenirs  d*ua  Voyage 
d'Art   A  rile  de  M^ofque.* 

3.  Dameto's' History  of  Mallorca.' 

4.  St  Sauveur's  *  French  Travels  through 
the  Balearic  and  Pyth.  Islands.' 

$.  G.  Sands'  agreeable,  channingly-wiitteii, 
but  prejudiced  '  Un  Hiver  &  Miyorque. 

6.  Mr.  Dodd's  unpretending  and  inteitsting 
account, '  Three  Weeks  in  Minorca.'  London: 
Chapman  and  Hall,  1863. 

7.  'Mallorca,'  by  Pifeirer,  in  Rccuerdoa  y 
Belleaas  de  Espafla.    Excellent 

8.  '  Notidas,  Historico-Topografic.'  of  Sr. 
Bovcr.    Palma,  1864. 

9.  'Dicciooario  de  la  Academia  da  Bdlas 
Artes  de  Mallorca,'  etc 

The  best  nup  we  know  is  that  of  CoeUo. 
Madrid,  1851. 

On  the  geology,  etc,  of  the  Belearics,  our 
readers  are  refened  to^— 

Eli  de  Beaumont,  '  Dcsuipcioo  de  rilo  de 
Majorque,'  in  the  Ann.  des  Sc  Natur.,  voL  x. 
p.  493  :  Delia  Marmora's  *  Geological  Reasarkt 
on  the  Belearic  Islands,'  Mem  of  Acad,  of 
Turin,  vol  xxxviil  p.  55 ;  and  Pablo  Boot's 
<  RescRa  Geognostica  de  \k  IsU  de  MaUorca,' 
puUlshed  in  the  Revista  Miners,  voL  m.  p. 
174— one  of  the  best  papers  on  the  subject 


SALAMANCA  (leonX 

Capital  of  prorinoe  of  ss|ne  name. 
Bishop's  see;  pop.  15,900(1861). 

RtuUt  mttd  Cmrvtyamctt. 


Meana. 

Time 
(Express). 

Dist 

Fares. 

From  Madrid: 

To  Medina  dd 

Oampo,  rail 

ToSahmanca, 
by  diL  in  con- 
nectioo. 
(Seats    taken 
at  Medina  ) 

(thnce  a- 
day.) 

7h.3am. 

lasm. 

t4le^. 

icLacL 
r.     r. 
80    60 

i3h.  »7m. 

•63  ka 

isor. 

Hmermty  mmd  D^acripikn 
^dU,  rtmte. 


MediaadelCMBpoto 
El  Fresno 
La  Csr^infl 
Pedroso  . 
Piliagua 
Mariscos 
SsUmanra 


.    a 
.    s 

»4 


(For  Medina,  see  UadriL)  At  El 
Carpio,  a  small  Tillage  about  14  mQes 
from  Medina,  are  the  mint  of  a  chnreh 
and  a  crypt  which  serred  as  the  fimify 


aALAMANOA. 


367 


Taolt  of  the  celebrated  Condes  del 
Carpio,  whoee  dilapidated  palace  still 
sabrista.  There  is  here  also  an  old 
Moorish  tower,  standing  amid  ruins, 
a  min  itselil  The  countrj  is  flat  and 
bleak,  and  in  June  and  July  resembles 
an  ocean  of  golden  waving  com.  At 
Cantalapiedra,  pine -woods  and  oaks 
commence ;  and  dose  to  the  goige  runs 
the  riyulet  of  La  Guarefia.  Between 
this  and  Salamanca  the  soil  is  parched 
up,  and  the  wretched  thirsty  peasants 
hare  no  supply  of  water  sare  from 
cisterns,  scanty  and  ague-feeders  in 
summer. 

From  Vdlladolid  by  Zamora.  See 
FaUadolid. 

From  flasenda  by  Ciudad  Rodrigo^ 
26  leagues. 

Hmenuy.—ln  two  long  days  to  C  Rodrigo.- 
Plasencm  t(^~ 

Abadia  ....  7 

I^agunilla       •       •       .  a 

Herguijoda  ...  5 

Bntiiccat        .       .       .  i 

Alberca  •       .       .       •  3 

Tcoebfoo     ' 


Cuidad  Rodrigo     . 

3a6das. 

Santi  Spiritus 

3 

Maitm  del  Rio    . 

a 

Boveda  del  Castro 

4 

Cabada.       .       . 

3 

Caladflla       .       . 

a 

Salainaiica 

a  i6dils. 

The  ride  from  Plasenda  is  wild,  but 
will  interest  the  antiquary  and  artist 
who  can  rough  it  The  roads  are  mere 
Oaminos  de  Perdices^  but  safe.  Take  a 
local  guide  and  prorender.  Sleep  first  j 
ni|^tat  Granadilla,  6  leagues;  the  next 
at  OonTent  de  las  Batuecas.  There  is 
Tery  good  trout-fishings  and  game 
abounds.  The  principal  object  of  this 
ride  is  to  visit  the  very  wild  and  almost 
unknown  district  of  Las  Batuecas,  a 
▼alleyabout  8  m.  long  by  2  wide,  girdled 
by  mountains,  and  inhabited  by  semi- 
savago  BcBotiaosL     It  is  characterised 


by  great  wildness,  deep  gorges,  rocks 
covered  with  lichens^  ivy,  where  the 
jarra,  the  cork-tree,  the  heather,  and 
oak  grow  with  great  luzuriauce.  Yirit 
the  lofty  hm  of 'La  Pefiade  Franda* 
and  its  chapel  or  Santnario,  whose 
miraculous  imsge  of  the  Virgin  is 
visited  by  thousands  on  Septembw  8th ; 
the  ruins  of  the  Carmelita  convent^  and 
the  enormous  cork-trees  and  cypresses 
growing  around  that  solitude. 

Cfiudad  Bodrigo  :  Inn—Fotada  d$  la 
Oolada  (Province  of  Salamanca),  on  the 
Agueda,  and  but  a  few  miles  firom  the 
Portuguese  frontier,  was  founded  by 
Count  Rodrigo  Gonzeales  Giron,  in 
1150.  The  indiflerent  cathedral  dates 
end  of  12th  century,  and  was  enlarged  in 
1588  by  Cardinal  Tavera,  Archbishop 
of  Toleda  Observe,  however,  the 
Tedesque  siUeria  by  Rodrigo  Alwnan. 
Ciudad  Rodrigo  is  celebrated  onlyfcur 
the  sieges  during  the  Peninsular  War; 
the  first  si<^  took  i^ace  in  the  spring 
of  1810,  when  Massena  and  Ney  attacked 
and  endeavoured  to  assault  the  town 
while  gallantly  defended  by  the  Spanish 
Genend  Herrasti,  who  was  at  length 
obliged  to  surrender,  July  10.  The 
second  si^  was  entirely  conducted  by 
the  Duke  of  Wellington,  January  1812. 
The  operations  were  curied  out  with 
the  most  extraordinary  activity,  bold- 
ness, and  discipline.  The  fortified 
Teson  to  the  N.  wss  taken  in  some 
hours;  and  the  proposed  reconnaissance 
confided  to  General  Graham  being 
turned  into  a  real  attack,  batteries 
could  be  establiihed  without  loss  of 
time,  and  on  the  19th  two  breaches  to 
K.K.  were  carried  by  Picton  and  Craw- 
furd.  The  troops  oommitted  great  ex- 
cesses, and,  becoming  intoxicated,  threw 
off  all  discipline,  fired  the  town  in  three 
or  four  placei^  and  a  general  con- 
flagration had  actually  begun,  but  was 
stopped  by  the  energy  of  some  ofllcen. 
The  allies  lest  1200  menandM  ofllosi% 


358 


SALAMANOA. 


and  tbe  French  800  and  1500  prisonera. 
Lord  Wellington  waa,  in  oonaeqnence 
of  thia  exploit,  created  Doke  of  Cindad 
Bodrigo  1^  the  Spaniarda,  an  Earl  by 
tha  KiglUh,  and  Maiqoia  of  Toirea 
Yadna  by  the  Portngneae. 

Tbe  aufituj  looritt  may  make  interettinc 
cscunioM  to  El  Bodoa,  9  leagues,  and  Fuente 
Guiaaldo,  9  others ;  and  risit  the  site  where  the 
French  cavalry  under  Montbrun  was  so  gal- 
lantly repulsed  by  the  5th  and  77th,  who  had 
Ibrmed  in  squares;  and  &rtlier  on,  ride  to 
Fuentes  OBoro  by  Al^ytes,  Pega,  and  to 
Gttarda,where,  Blarch  ag,  iBtt,  General  Pictoa 


compelled  so^ooo  men  under  Mssscna  to  retire, 
abandoning  the  heights.  At  Almeida  with  a 
picturesque  castle,  and  which  the  Duke  took 
after  his  victory  at  Oftoro.  Proceeding  on- 
wards by  Proneda,  to  ViUafonaosa,  we  finally 
reach  theviUageof  Fuentes  de  OSoro,  where 
the  Dttkeso  signally  defeated  Masiena.  It  is 
fiuned  in  British  military  annals  for  the  heroic 
charge  of  the  71st  and  79th  Highbuiden^  who 
rushed  on  the  enemy,  raising  the  war-cry  of  the 
Camerons.  The  French  k)st  5000^  and  the 
English 


Oliznate. 

M^rtaHiy—t  in  97— 186a 
I  in  37—1861. 


MbTIOROLOOIGAL  OBSSRVATIONS  made  AT  THE  INSTITUTE, 

Salamanca,  i86a 


MoOuM* 

Temperature  of  Air. 

Direction  of  Wmds. 

1 
1 

Quan- 
tity. 

Aver- 
age. 

Mavi. 
mum. 

Mini- 
mum. 

Oadl. 

N. 

NB. 

» 

am. 

8. 

•  • 
X 

•  • 

•  • 

9 
X 

•  9 

•  • 

•  • 

•  • 

9 

9 

SW. 

w. 

NW. 

9 

•  • 

XX 
XX 

13 

Ssccasber 
x86o 
January    . 
Febnary  » 
Match.    . 
April    .    . 

June    •    . 

August 
September 
October    . 
November 

5-S 

U 

9-3 

XX.O 

X9.8 

90.9 

«4-S 

'It 

«4'4 

«4-4 
X5.0 

90.6 

9X.7 

33-3 

36.x 

96.7 
19.4 

5*4 

9.8 

xx.x 

tl 

4-4 
4.4 

I', 

a6 

aas 

96.x 

a7.3 
99.3 

98.9 

JCXO 

•9-4 

9«.0 

il8 

X 

•  • 
9 

3 

X 
X 

*  * 

X 
X 
X 
X 

t  • 

•  • 

•  • 

•  • 

•  • 

4 

XX 

X4 
xo 

•  • 

xo 

9 
3 

•  • 

X 

•  • 

•  • 

•  • 

X 

•  • 

X 

9 

•  • 

6 

6 
3 

X 

1 

5 

•  • 

X 

3 

X 

xs 

•  • 

X4 

10 
18 

4 
X4 

90 

X7.oa 

**•? 
7.6« 

7.37 

99.48 
33.0a 

X.78 

3»-«3 

i.«7 
113.79 

Mean  annual  barometrical  height  .    .    .    693.99 

,,        „       temperature 1A.0          Number  of  rainy  days    .       78 

Maximum               „                                    36.x           Quantity  fallen     .    .    .     994.SX 
Minimum                m            ii>i 

Hotela. — ^All  yery  indifferent;  the 
leaat  bad  are  Poaada  de  laa  Diligendaa^ 
and  Poaaida  de  loa  Toroa. 

Qeneral  Deaoripiion. — ^Thia  nni- 
renity  town,  *  Alma  mater  de  yirtndea, 
denoiaa  y  aitea^'  ia  aitoated  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Tormea,  a  name  well  known 
to  all  readen  of  picareaque  noTe]%  who 
cannot  haye  foigotten  el  Laiarillo  de 
Tormea,  and  'Le  Bachelier  de  Sahi- 
manfne.'  The  atreeta  are  Aill  of  char- 
acttr,«apedally  the  Hna,  with  itabook- 
nllan  And  aQTeramithi^  and  the  hand- ' 


aome  OalU  ds  lamora,  which  leada  to 
the  apadooa  Flaaa  Mofor,  a  noble 
aqnaie,  aorronnded  by  90  aroadea,  and 
on  whoae  tympani  are  acnlptored  bnata 
of  kinga  and  Spaniah  heroea.  Thiaplaa 
waa  b^^  in  1720,  and  finiahed  1785. 
Bnll-fighta  aometimea  take  place  here^ 
when  it  holda  aome  90,000  apeotaton, 
and  preaenta  a  eight  truly  worthy  of 
thia  aelf-named  '  Boma  peqnefia,'  or  the 
Leaaer  Rome.  It  ia,  on  the  whole,  an 
out-of-the-way,  backward,  and  beni^t- 
ed  place,  nerertheleaa  the  number  and 


8ALAMAN0A. 


359 


magnifioenoe  of  ita  buildings  make  it 
well  worth  the  tonrist's  while  to  leare 
the  oonmioii  track,  and  pay  it  a  ahort 
Tiait 

Slghta^-Oathediml  (old  and  new), 
AnoUapoi  Col^o  Yi^o,  OoQTent  of 
Santo  Domingo,  Jesoits*  College^  CoUuge 
of  OalatraTa,  and  University. 

€%t  Catlcltil  dates  1518»  and  was 
oontinned  till  1784  in  the  same  florid 
styles  of  which  it  is  a  very  fine  example. 
The  architect  was  Jnan  Gil  de  Honta- 
rion.  It  is  196  ft  long  by  198  It  wide. 
Thepofial  forms  three  entrances ;  that 
of  the  centre  is  dirided  by  a  pillar  bear- 
ing an  effigy  of  the  Virgin,  and  placed 
below  two  bassi-relieTi  representing  the 
Natiyity  and  Adoratbn.  The  two  re- 
maining ingresses  are  equally  decorated, 
the  one  called  de  las  Palmes  having  a 
good  miBSzo-relieTO^  representing  the  en- 
trance to  Jerosalem.  The  tower  over  the 
portal  is  the  work  of  Chnrrignera,  bnt 
not  as  extravagant  as  most  of  his  works. 

Ttu  initrior  is  divided  into  throe 
aisles,  the  central  being  the  highest 
The  lateral  aisles  are  filled  with  chapels, 
railed  o£  Observe  the  beaatifal  Gothic 
roo(  so  richly  yet  tastefnUy  decorated, 
and  the  elegant  gallery,  and  bnsts  pro- 
jecting from  gold  drcolar  frames.  The 
stalls  in  the  choir  are  chnrrigoeresqne. 
Notice,  nevertheless,  here  the  two  finely- 
modelled  statues  of  St  John  and  Sta. 
Ana,  ascribed  to  Jnan  de  JnnL  Visit 
the  Chapels,  Dorada,  del  Presidento 
(where  there  are  two  heads  of  the  Savi- 
our, and  other  pictures  by  Morales),  La 
Pieza,  or  vestiy  ;  and  in  the  oratorio^  a 
fine  onstodia,  and  the  historical  Crud- 
fijo  de  las  Batallas,  which  the  Cid 
always  carried  before  him  in  fight  It  I 
is  perfectly  authentic,  though  of  no 
artistical  merit  In  the  Ca.  de  San  An- 
tonio are  some  Zurbarans  Beheading  of 
St  John,  a  Ondftxion,  etc. ;  and  in  an 
adjoining  diapel  a  fine  San  Geronimo  I 
doing  penanoe^  by  Gaspar  Beoerra.         | 


The  M  cathedral,  dose  by,  was  built 
by  the  Cid*s  confessor.  Fray  Geronimo^ 
a  Frenchman,  and  native  of  Perigord, 
who  was  raised  by  the  Gid,  in  1098,  to 
the  see  of  Valencia.  The  edifice  is  low,' 
sombre,  and  of  the  Byantine  style. 

Oolegio  FUffo  was  founded  in  1410, 
but  rebuilt  in  1760,  after  designs  by 
Hermosilla.  The  cloister  is  formed  by 
two  daarical  galleries,  Ionic  and  Doric. 
Observe  the  magnificent  grand  stair* 
case^  etc  The  d^urch  possesses  some 
valuable  pictures  by  Gallegos,  the  Span- 
ish Van  Dyck,  and  a  native  of  Sala- 
manca. 

CkmvttU  o/Sto,  Domintfo. — Added  to 
and  repaired  at  diflerent  periods,  and 
in  different  styles.  The  crudform 
Gothic  church  has  an  elegant  portal, 
richly  ornamented  with  statues  and 
scroll-work,  and  the  oldsters  contain 
good  sculpture^  medallions,  busti^  and 
basn-relievi  Observe  the  prindpal 
staircase,  the  library,  and  sacristy. 

University. — ^This,  one  of  the  earliest 
in  Europe  (of  1 4th  century),  was  founded 
by  Alfonso,  the  ninth  king  of  Leon, 
and  was  the  sutject  of  grants  and  privi- . 
leges^  succesdvely  didmed  from,  and 
offered  by,  Ferdinand  111.  and  Alfonso 
X.  It  ranked  immediatdy  after  that 
of  Parish  and  before  Oxford  and  Bolog- 
na ;  its  students  numbered  10,000,  and 
upwards.  From  all  parts  of  the  world 
they  flo<^ed  hither ;  and  its  caUdrtu 
had  a  wMd-wide  reputatioiL  Its 
students  became  great  professors,  and 
taught  in  foreign  nniveruties.  Strange 
to  say,  here^  where  the  system  of.  0> 
pemicus,  then  hdd  everywhere  as 
heretical,  was  expounded,  mi  the  very 
place  where  Columbus  met  with  the' 
greatest  oppodtion,  even  derision  and 
scorn,  when  he  was  sent  before  a  council 
of  catedraticos  to  Valcuervo^  2  leagues 
ofi^  as  being  more  seduded  and  qukter 
than  the  univerdty  halls.  The  nni- 
verdty  has  now  dwindled  into  an  ofdl* 


360 


SALAMANCA. 


nuy  college,  thougli  it  pieaenres  its 
former  titles,  distinctioiis,  and  pompooa 
names.  The  rector's  salary  is  20,000r. 
a-year,  and  the  professors  get  only 
12,000r.  (about  £120).  The  nniTersi^ 
is  divideid  into  the  Eteudoi  Ua/ycru 
and  EteudoM  Menom,  The  grand  en- 
trance and  fafade  date  of  time  and 
style  of  the  Gatholio  kings,  whose  arms 
and  escutcheon  are  seen  orer  the  portaL 
It  is  a  masterpiece  of  the  transition 
Qotho-plateresque.  Observe  the  infinite 
details,  busts,  medallions,  all  executed 
with  great  nicety.  The  cloisters  are 
Tery  elegant,  and  ftill  of  light  and  air. 
The  libimry  contains  60,000  toIs. 

Ckmveni  of  Laa  AffuMimu  JUeoUtas, 
— Founded  by  Manuel  de  Zu&iga, 
Conde  de  Monterey,  in  1626,  tijnivado 
of  Philip  lY.'s.  It  is  a  magnificent 
edifice,  built  by  the  architect  Fontana, 
in  the  classical  style.  Obserre  more 
especially  the  Florentine  pulpit,  said 
to  be  the  very  one  in  which  St  Vicente 
Ferrer  preached ;  the  Corinthian  retablo, 
with  lapis  lazuli ;  the  tombs^  by  Algardi, 
of  the  founder  and  his  wife ;  the  pictures 
of  'San  Januario,'  ascribed  to  Veronese ; 
an  Annunciation,  by  Lanflranco  ;  a 
Natirity,  by  Ribera  ;  St  John,  by 
Ouido  ;  San  Nicolas,  by  Ribera  ;  Vir- 
gen  dd  Rosario,  by  Ribera ;  and  the 
magnificent  Concepdon  on  the'  altar, 
by  Ribera,  signed  and  dated  1635 ; 
most  of  those  in  this  conyent  have 
been  lately  removed  to  the  provincial 


TJU  Anobiipo,  or  Colegio  Mayor  de 
Santiago^  was  founded  1621,  by  Arch- 
bishop Fonseca;  the  architect,  Pedro 
de  Ibarra.  The  style  is  the  purest 
plateresque.  Observe  the  exquisite 
patio^  the  retablo  by  Berruguete,  1529, 
etc  ;  all  seems  chisnlled  silver. 

Th4  /sfMOos.— Dates  1614 ;  built  by 
Juan  Gomel  de  Mora,  and  now  called 
Colegio  ds  Irlandeses^  as  the  original 
building  was  founded  by  Philip  IL,  and 


dedicated  to  St  Patrick,  for  the  edu- 
cation of  young  Irish  priests.  The 
present  rector  is  Doctor  Gartlan,  as 
hospitable  and  kind-hearted  to  his 
countiymen  who  visit  ft^l^mtnga,  as 
he  is  erudite  and  sealous  in  his  duties. 
Travellers  may  also  visit  the  Nunnery 
of  Sta  Espiritu,  for  its  msgnificent 
roof  and  portal,  by  Berruguete;  Church 
of  CarmeUtas  Descalzas,  for  its  dassicsl 
style,  by  Juan  de  Herrera ;  Colegio  de 
Guadalupe,  for  its  decorations  ;  the 
Santo  Tom6  de  los  Gaballeroe,  for  its 
tower  of  the  18th  century,  and  its  eariy 
sepulchres ;  the  Colegio  de  la  Vera  Gnu, 
etc 

Pritfate  JTbusai— They  are  very  cari- 
ous, and  well  worth  visiting  and  sketch- 
ing. Observe  especially,  Caaa  de  Mai- 
donado^  opposite  La  Trinidad  ;  Ossa  de 
las  Conchas,  near  the  Jesuits,  and  its 
patio  ;  Ossa  del  Sol ;  Casa  del  Ariobis- 
po  Fonseca,  in  Calle  de  las  Muertea. 
The  Duke  of  Wellington  lodg^  in  the 
house  of  Marquis  de  Almarza,  in  the 
Flam  de  San  Bool,  Observe  also  two 
very  ancient  mansions  in  Plaaa  tU  Samto 
Tamif  one  Moorish-like^  and  the  other 
plateresque 

Minor  Sights.— 7omf  de  Clavd^  a 
first-rate  example  of  the  medieval 
Castilian  keep.  Piuria  de  San  PMo, 
with  statues  of  saints,  and  the  Pope 
and  St  Peter  in  the  centre ;  the  Roman 
bridge  and  remains  of  walls,  etc  The 
Puerta  del  JHo  is  also  curious. 

The  celebrated  battle  of  Salamamea, 
between  the  Duke  of  Wellington  and 
Marmont^  was  fought  July  22,  1812. 
The  allies  mustered  60,000,  of  which 
only  half  were  British,  the  rest 
Spaniard^  and  the  French  numbered 
upwards  of  100,000  men.  The  battle 
was  concluded  in  45  minutes,  and  re- 
sulted in  the  routing  of  the  whole  French 
army.  Marmont  was  wounded,  the 
enemy  disorganised,  and,  as  the  Duke 
*If  we  had  had  an  hoar 


8AMTANDER. 


361 


more  daylight,  the  whole  armj  would 
hare  been  in  our  hands.'  The  Doke 
was  the  hero  of  the  day,  'and  was  seen 
at  every  point  precisely  where  his 
presence  was  most  required.  '  I  saw 
him,'  writes  Napier,  '  late  in  the  even- 
ing of  that  great  day,  when  the  adyano- 
ing  flashes  of  cannon  and  mnsketry, 
stretching  as  far  as  the  eye  conld  com- 
mand, showed  in  the  darkness  how 
well  the  field  was  won.  He  was  alone ; 
the  flush  of  victory  was  on  his  hrow, 
and  his  eyes  were  eager  and  watchful ; 
but  his  voice  was  calm,  and  even  gentle. 
More  than  the  rival  of  Marlborough, 
since  he  had  defeated  greater  warriors, 
with  a  prescient  pride  he  seemed  only 
to  accept  this  glory  as  an  earnest  of 
greater  things.'  Thiers*  r^sum^  of  the 
battle  runs  Sius  :  '  Cette  fiineste  et  in- 
volontaire  bataille^  dite  do  Sakmanque 
ou  des  Arapiles,  eut  pour  I'ann^ 
Anglaise  des  cona^uences  fort  im- 
pr6vuei^  car  elle  lui  procura  une  vic- 


toire  inesp^r^  au  lieu  d'une  letraite 
instable,  et  commenfa  la  mine  de  nos 
affaires  d'Espagne.' 

Excursion  to  mineral  spring  of  Ls* 
desma^  64  leagues. 


Salamanca  to  T^lsTM 
Canatca  de  Barrel . 
Panda  de  Airiba 
LoaBafioa 


t 
I 
3* 


A  daily  diL  during  the  temporada 
only.  For  details,  see  Qeneral  Infor- 
mation :  Mineral  Baths, 

Baa/k*  tf  R^fertnet. — i.  'ReaeBa  lust,  de  la 
Unhrenidad/  by  eevend  ProfenoCT  of  nine. 
Salamanca;  Moran,  1849. 

a.  *  Hist  del  Colegio  Vicjo  da  S.  Baitolom^' 
etc,  bjr  Roxas  y  Contreraa.  Madrid:  Ortega, 
xTjfA-To.  3  voh.  foL,  Tery  iaqwrtant,  and  lull 
of  infonnation  rejecting  the  liteiaiy  and  chril 
history  of  the  city. 

3.  *Htst.  del  Convento  de  San  Agustinde 
Salamanca,'  by  Herrera.  Madrid :  Rodrigoe^ 
t6sa.    Most  coriooi  Inibrauuion,  and  reliabla. 


8ANTANDER  (Asturias). 


Capital  of  province  of  same  name. 
Bishop's   see.     Trading  port      Pop. 

80,202  (isei). 

Bontes  and  Oonvej- 
anoes.—  From  Madrid : — 
Time  21t  to  22  hrs.— Thus  : 
Madrid  to  Yenta  de  Bahos  (on  Madrid 
to  Bayonne  line),  leave  at  8.80  f.m.  ; 
get  to  Yenta  de  Ba&os  next  morning  at 
8  (7.66) ;  change  carriages,  and  take 
the  Alar  to  Santander  (Tsabel  2a) 
line^  leaving  Alar  at  11.26  A.M. ;  arrive 
at  Santander  that  same  evening  at  6.47. 
Yenta  de  Bafioa  to  Alar,  91  kiL  (by 
Palenda  time  84  hours).  Fares : — 
Madrid  to  Yenta  de  Bafios,  12dr.  to 
92r.  26c  ;  Yenta  de  Bafios  to  Alar, 
40r.  26c  to  80r.  26c  ;  Alar  to  Santan- 
der (189  kiL),  78r.  60c  to  60r.  60c 
Detoription  of  Bouto.— As  £ur  as 


Yenta  de  Bafios,  see  ifcMlfiiiL    1.  From 
Bayonne    A  bufiet  at  Bafios. 

Faleneia.  —  Capital  of  province  of 
same  name  Pop^  18»  128  (1881).  The 
ancient  Pallantia  and  seat  of  the  first 
Spanish  university,  founded  in  the  10th 
century,  and  removed  to  Salamanca  in 
1289.  It  stands  in  a  wind-blown  plain 
on  the  banks  of  the  Cartion.  It  has 
considerably  decayed  in  wealth  and 
trade,  but  Uiere  are  signs  of  a  renewal 
of  prosperity.  The  prolongation  of  the 
railway  to  Corufia  may  contribute  to 
this.  Its  woollens  are  excellent,  and 
the  mantas  de  Palenda  are  sold  all  over 
Spain,  and  even  exported  to  AmericiL 
The  principal  sight  is  the 

CiilclTtl,  which  is  of  elegant  Gothic, 
dates  1821,  but  was  not  completed  tiU 
1604.    It  was  dedicated  to  San  Anto- 


Hi 


SAXXAMD] 


Hm.  

t^tMjihakf^  ta^t  mpentttkiiL  OLauiC! 
tik  etftbonUij-canred  nllerift  del  eoro; 
iff  iae  nlfk  ind  pulpiti,  Um  ridi  pla- 
Unaqwt  lafMldo  del  com,  a  fftirwKi 
4f  cod  0^  1^  eeotmj,  lij  Joan  Bcba- 
TcoUv  doiitcr,  tower,  ete.  Tbe  hoq^- 
tel  «f  Sea  LearowM  ones  the  ptkce 
ti  tbe  C^  end  when  ha  wee  married 
to  Jlneaa, 

Ob  leerfaif  Palenda,  tiie  nil  followa 
tlie  old  eoach-road,  eroMisg  tiie  eom- 
groviog  fertila  tierra  de  Ounpoa ;  bot 
the  aeeoerj  beeomee  moootODOiia,  and 
tha  aoU  poorer,  aa  one  approaches  the 
wnlehed  villi^  of  Moocoil  On 
leerfaif  it  tiie  Ueieza  ie  croeeed.  The 
hcafj  hunberMme  chnrch  of  Awtuteo 
km  eeaaed  it  to  be  called  El  P^aron, 
the  big  bird ;  not  the  ea^  bat  a  gi- 
guitie  bat  At  Omtmo,  the  Abanadea 
ia  croaMd  on  a  fine  bridge.  The  rail- 
road aboot  Eepinoea  ia  wdl  engineered, 
and  the  eipenaee  haTo  been  great  A 
trench,  18  mkree  deep  in  aome  parti, 
haa  been  ent^  and  upwards  of  half-a- 
milUon  cnbio  mhres  of  earth  remored. 

JTerrmi.  ^Towards  W.  of  dty  there 
are  ndns  of  a  Moorish  castle  belonging 
to  and  neglected  by  the  Duke  of  Trias. 
The  Pinarga  is  crossed. 

Alar  M  Rty, — Here  ends  the  canal 
of  Castile,  which  irrigates  part  of  tierra 
da  Campos,  and  pUces  Yalenda,  Bio- 
reco»  Yalladolid,  etc.,in  commnnieation, 
and  ssnring  for  the  tnmsport  of  com 
and  flour. 

JKitfaosak— 1720  inhab.  On  the  Ebro^ 
which  rises  not  fur  to  W.  at  the  foot  of 
the  Hontafias  de  Borgos,  also  called 
Hontes  ds  Beinoea,  which  are  rerj 
hi^  and  generall  J  snow-capped.  Close 
by  lie  the  coal-ficdds  of  Orbio  and  Cer- 
Tera,  which  are  worked  by  the  Northern 
Bailway  Company.  The  engineering 
diiHcnltieB  to  be  oreroome  between 
Beinosa  and  Bsroena  are  great,  and  the 
OQtUy  is   oonsiderable ;   this  section, 


penonwd  by  diK 
wifl  be  Aortly  npiaed  to 
and  taTeUen. 

OsiailiiHi  at  atation  of  Santai 

From  J^psMMyie  toniist  Bi^ 
proceed  by  land,  tskiag  the  rsil  to 
Ifim,  Yta.  de  Ya&o%  then  by  Akr  «f 
sMphl  (12  hours),  or  1^  aea»  the  shortest 
route. 

From  .Mftaa  the  tourist  may  go  either 
by  land — daily  diligence  eerriee  by 
Osnanxa  and  Bamslfa  (12  hours),  per- 
formed during  the  day,  aUowing  ua  to  see 
the  aoenery,  which  ia  Tery  pi  wising  and 
wild ;  Cues,  berlina,  120r. ;  int  100 ; 
imp.  80  ;  or  by  sea  (distance,  44  kiL) ; 
time^  4  hours. 

From  Vigo,  Oomma,  Sam  Atarftau, 
etc 

From  Gifon,  by  steamer%  10  hours. 
See  those  n^mff. 

Steamera  also  from  and  to  Zimrjnoi 
tundl/nuUm, 

Hotala.— 2310  Boggio  and  dsl  Cfomavh 
on  the  Quay  (Muelle),  good,  and  ehaigea 
moderate. 

Lodging$. — Second-rate^  and  indiffer- 
ently eenred;  cannot  be  recommended. 
ScTeral  on  the  Atuaana%  San  Frsn- 
dsco,  Muelle  de  los  Naos,  etc 

Cq^y^Soizo,  on  the  Muelle. 

Oeneral  Daaoription. — Eidorioal 
NoHm, — If  we  leare  on  one  side  our 
old  friends  the  usual  Spanish  founders 
ofdties,  Noah,  Tubal,  etc,,  this  may 
hsTe  been  the  site  of  the  Boman  Portus 
Blendium,  but  was  roMy  built  by  Al- 
fonso the  Catholic,  close  to  a  hermitsgo 
dedicated  to  St  Andrew,  Ander,  Andr^ 
Alfonso  YIII.  granted  to  it  a  fuero  and 
carta-pneblo,  placing  it  under  the  juris- 
diction snd  rule  of  the  powerful  and 
wealthy  abbots  of  San  Emeterio.  A 
fortress  wss  erected  and  atarssanas 
(docks)  built  It  wss  made  independ 
ent  by  Bnrique  YL  in  1407,  who  styled 
it 'Noble  yLesL'  Here,  July  10, 1522, 
Charles  Y.  landed  to  take  possession  of 


8AMTAin)XR. 


363 


Spain,  and  in  1644,  a  fleet  of  forfy 
Tesseli  niled  under  D.  AlTtro  de  Baan, 
in  pftrfoit  of  a  French  fleet  which  they 
destroyed  off  the  coaet  of  Qallioia. 
Charles  I.  on  hie  retom  to  England 
embarked  here.  It  was  habilitado  for 
the  American  trade  in  1758,  when  it 
reached  its  acme  of  prosperity,  and  two 
years  after  was  declared  a  cdndad.  It 
was  most  cruelly  sacked  by  Soult,  Nor. 
16,  1808,  and  during  the  whole  war 
showed  great  opposition  and  discourtesy 
to  the  £iglish  aUiesL 

The  dty  can  be  dirided  into  the 
older  and  new  portions.  The  principal 
streets  in  the  former  are,  Muelle  (the 
Quay),  San  Frandsoo,  OMnpaftia. 

This  thriTing  dty  is  screened  from 
the  N.  and  N.W.  winder  but  lies  much 
ezpoeed  to  the  strong  south.  Its  bay 
is  about  4  miles  long  and  It  to  8  wide. 
The  entrance  to  the  port  is  easy  and 
accessible  to  ships  of  all  sizes,  and  its 
barra  is  upwards  of  6  yards  at  low  tide. 
Its  Ria  is  formed  by  the  Miera  and 
Cubes,  which  flow  into  the  bay,  close 
to  the  sandbanks  of  £1  PnntaL  Theee 
riTen,  and  a  third  one  which  flows  from 
Solares^  cany  laige  quantities  of  sand, 
which  choke  up  the  bay,  and  are  being 
aetiyelyremoTed  and  deared  away.  The 
port  ii  protected  by  a  fine  quay,  608  yards 
long,  the.  yiew  from  which  is  extensive 
and  fine.  The  dty  itself  is  situated  at  the 
base  of  a  hill  in  a  sort  of  peninsula  or 
headland.  Its  newly-built  houses,  de- 
gant  and  gay,  giro  the  dty  rather  a 
French  than  a  Spanish  appearance.  It 
is  on  the  hi^  road  to  pnN^writy,  which 
the  railroad  recently  opened  will  greatly 
contribute  to  ensure.  There  ii  a  theatre, 
a  lioeo^  sereral  reading-rooms ;  some  so- 
cial intercourse  among  the  wealthy  mer- 
chants and  las  antoridades  de  la  prorin- 
da,  and  is  frequented  in  summer  for  sea- 
bathing. The  promenades  are  charm- 
ing especially  the  Alameda  Primers  and 
theS^gonda;  thePaseoddAltaandEl 


Sardinero,  that  leads  to  the  bathing 
estabUshment;  and  dose  to  which  is  the 
lighthouse,  which  is  TidUe  at  the  dis- 
tance of  SO  miles. 

The  Plasa  de  Toros  contains  8000 
spectators,  and  was  buHt  in  1850.  From 
it  the  spectator  can  watch  the  ships 
loaded  with  bales,  sugars,  flour-barrels, 
etc.,  leaTing  and  entering  the  busyr 
busUing  port ;  a  strange  oontrast  with 
the  picturesque  slaughter-house  tragedy 
going  on  before  us. 

Bights^ — The  prindpal  sights  are  the 
cathedral,  a*Qothic  edifice  of  no  merit, 
with  three  naree,  and  tawdiy  chapds, 
and  a  crypt  called  Captlla  dd  Oristo  de 
Abijo,  on  the  altar  of  which  are  pre- 
served  the  heads  of  the  martyrs  San 
Emeterio  and  Cdedorico.  The  bap- 
tismal font  is  in  marble,  with  an  Arabio 
inscription;  the  tobacco  manufactory 
was  a  former  mmiMry/  It  employs 
1060  workmen,  and  turns  out  some 
150,000  kiL  of  dgars.  The  small 
theatre  was  built  in  1887,  contains 
1000  spectators,  and  the  lares  are  80r. 
a  box  (primeroe  paloos,  and  plateas), 
and  8r.  a  stall  (butaca).  Spanish  dances 
and  larsuelas.  Tourists  will  do  well  to 
Tint  the  bailee  campestres  at  the  gar- 
dens at  Toca  and  liaarrasa  during  the 
summer. 

Telegraph  Oflloe. — At  Muelle  de 
loe  Naoa,  Oasas  de  la  Torriente ;  open 
all  day  tOl  0  p.m.  To  all  parts  of 
Europe. 

Post  Oflloo. — PUsuda  de  Beoedo. 
Open  from  0  A.M.  to  S  p.m.,  and  tnm 
5  P.M.  to  0  P.M.  Two  delireries  a-day 
one  hour  and  a  half  or  two  hours  after 
the  arriyal  of  post  and  eipiess  traina. 
For  lOOr.  an  apartado  (see  General  In- 
formation :  Poti  Qfiet)  can  be  procured, 
and  then  the  letters  are  obtained  half* 
an-hour  only  after  the  arriTal  of  mails. 

Boats  to  ^e  sstiUero  (docks)  leave  in 
summer  at  11  A.M.,  IS  P.M.,  1,  and  S; 
and  in  winter  at  8  and  0  A.  M.,  for  one  mL 


364 


sAiniAaa 


Plr»ctoiY.— OwmmZi.— fl:  B.  JIT*., 
IieitteiuuitMttch,R.lL,Miidle.  iYir- 
fM^  Sr.  La  Reriba,  FlazoeU  del  Prin- 
cipe. Amia,  D.  Pedro  de  las  OMigu. 
Belgimm,T.lMj)6ngk,Uutnt,  ^rtmea, 
Marquis  de  Pontduura,  Mndle. 

Bamlur, — Sr.  Fiandseo  Alday,  Gor- 
respondent  of  London  and  Westminster 

i^.J?.— Ererj  infonnation  oonneoted 
with  steamen,  trade,  etc^  ii  to  be  ob- 
tained at  the  offices  on  the  qnay. 

Xxonrsiona. — The  environs  of  the 
dtj  are  plessant,  shady,  and  studded 
with  qidnias,  cases  de  labor,  and  <^ 
chardi^  where^  from  the  absence  of 
frost,  the  orange  and  citrons  grow 
Inzorisntl J.     Tht  prettiest  iillas  are 


those  of  Sr.  D.  Julian  Alday,  Fernando 
de  Cos,  Marqo^  de  Balboena,  Maiqo^ 
de  YUlatoRe,  etc  Thoe  are  seraal 
Bomeriaa  or  pilgrimsges,  rather  fairs 
and  jollifications  than  otherwise.  The 
most  popular  is  that  of  Y  iigen  del  Ow* 
men,  hdd  Jvlj  16  and  the  ensuing 
Sunday,  at  the  Triunfo  de  la  Santa 
Cms. 


dad  y  Pranr.  de  Santaader/  by  Manuel 

just  pnWMiing,    Tboee  who  haire  had 

to  frawfair  tbe  MS.  qieak  of  k  very  higlily. 

a.  'Quia  de  Santaadcr/  by  Salomoo ; 
ander  libceria  de  k  Ab^  Mooufieai,'  18602 
rtxy  bdiffcfenc ;  oaefiil  only  as  a  directory. 

3.  'Ternins  cx6tMc6  et  Bummolitiqiie  de  la 
Prar.  de  Saalawier,'  byDe  Yemeni:  BiiB. 
Fkeoch  GeoL  So&,  ad  Ser.,  voL  vL,  pi 
1849. 


8ANTIAQ0. 


Prorinoe  of  Corufia — ^Primate  of  AU 
Spmitt;  pop.  26,  OSS  a867),  OaUida. 

Bouies  and  OonTeyaaoas. — For 
those  from  La  OoruMa  and  Fenolt  see 
both. 
From  Leomt  an  alternate  serrioe  of 
dilligences  to  Lugo^  and 
to  La  Corufia  and  San- 
tiago.  Offices  at  Leon, 
Fonde  del  Norte ;  42  hrs.  to  Santiago. 
Fares:  berlina,  SSOr. ;  intr.,  29Sr.  ; 
rotda.,  260r. ;  imple.,  239.  (ForLugo^ 
etc.,  see  OontlUL) 

There  are  two  roads  from  Lttgw,  bat  both 
equally  bad  to  be  ridden,  though  they  may  be 
reooouaeoded  to  anglers— the  l/iU  is  dm  rhrer. 

I.  /iuitfufy. 
LogotoSanMiguddeBocorna  a 
Puente  Ferreua  .a 

.  Mellid  (sleep  here)  ...    3 

Anua a 

San  Miguel  de  Saloeda   .       .    a 

Omcaal a 

a 

IS  kagMO,  a  days    .       .  13 


a.  Mtut49%wy, 
IS  leagues ;  also  riding ; 

Logo  to  Santa  Bnfadia 
Cart^tl  .       .       . 
Sobrado  (sleep  here) 
Buy  Mueito     . 
San(3regQrio  . 
SanMarooe 


mteresttag« 


.    4 

.    a 

.    a 

.    3l 
._* 

«5 

The  Jra»  b  crooaed  by  a  line  bridge :  ^^dr*^ 
00  the  tnrat'Stream  Tambre;  a  Benedictine 
Cpnvent,  foonded  950;  but  modernised  and 
containing  little  of  interest. 

From  or  to  C>/r  FmUUrrt,  We  have  not 
performed  this  excursion  oundvcs,  but  it  is 
considered  irery  wild  and  picturesque.  Alocal 
guide  is  necessary. 

IHmermrr,  Leagues. 

Santiago  to  Puente  Maceira  .  3 
Buen  Jesus  ....  4 
Corci^ion  .    3I 

FinistciTe        ....    1 

From  Fattadolid  and  (Vmmi— From 


SANTIAGO. 


365 


fonner  to  latter,  810  kiL  ;  a  sttriee  of 
<  Ck>iTe8pondencU  do  Sotillo,'  at  Yalla- 
dolid  offices,  dose  to  Fonda  del  Norte ; 
daily,  in  2t  days ;  fares,  8d0r. ;  an  in- 
terior only.  At  Orense  another  dili- 
genoe  is  taken  to  Santiago,  65  m.  The 
ronte  crosses  Benarente. 


Uintraty. 
VaUadolid  to  SimancM 
Bcnavento 
Bflonbucy 
Orcnso 

Castro  Doion  « 
Santiago  • 


.    a 

.  to 

.34-6i| 
.    6 
•  It — 17 

^enoofn^— 2460  inhabitants.  Adnll 
backward  town.  A  good  posada  oat- 
side  the  town.  The  only  sight  is  the 
rained  alcazar  of  the  Pimen^  iamily, 
now  become  the  property  of  the  Duke 
of  Osnna,  who  is  Conde  Duqoe  de 
Benavente.  General  Moore*s  celebrated 
retreat  Pec  28,  1809)  began  here. 

Between  this  and  Orense  the  only 
remarkable  objects  of  interest  are  the 
Talleys  of  Allariz,  Linda,  del  Yerin, 
which  latter  reaches  Portugal  .at 
Ohayes.  The  rivers  of  the  Orbigo, 
limia,  etc.  The  hamlets  are  nnin- 
teresting ;  the  scenery  monotonous. 

OrwiM.— 11,029  inhabitants.  On  left 
bank  of  the  Mifio.  Aocrading  to  the 
Spanish  song : — 

T^  ooau  hay  tax  Orense 
Que  no  las  hay  oi  EspaBa; 
£1  Santo  Cristo^  la  Pnoite^ 
Y  la  Bmga  hinrtendo  .d  agiia. 

The  CaiMfol  of  Orense  (Gothic) 
was  built  by  Bishop  Lorenso  in  1220, 
and  is  indifferent  Visit  the  CapiUa 
del  Cristo  cruciflcado,  founded  1567, 
by  Bishop  Trido.  The  miraeolous 
image  was  brought  in  1880  from  a 
small  church  on  Cape  Finisterre.  It 
is  held  in  great  veneration.  The  dois- 
ten  date  1204.  The  Burga$  are  three 
warm  springs;  temperature  66  to  68 


Cent ;  they  hare  great  similarity  with 
those  of  Carlsbad. 

The  bridge,  la  PuenU  (both  ma&m- 
line  and  feminine  in  Spanish,  as  mar 
aguoy  eto.),  over  the  Mifio  is  ascribed  to 
Tngan,  the  devil,  etc  It  was  built  in 
1280,  by  Bishop  Lorenzo,  and  repaired 
in  1449.  It  is  1819  ft  long.  The 
grand  arch  156  ft  wide,  and  186  ft 
high.  It  is  one  of  the  finest  and  largest 
in  Spain — that  of  Almares  being  only 
160  ft.  wide,  and  that  of  Alcantara*  94. 

Between  Orense  and  Santiago  obearve 
the  monte  of  Castro  Dozen,  tiie  vaUey 
of  the  Ulla,  and  the  Pico  Sagros.  The 
rivers  are  the  Mifio,  Deza,  and  UUa. 
The  villages  are  most  uninteresting. 

See  for  routes  between  Orense  and 
Tuy,  and  Orense  and  Pontevedra ;  and 
for  Tuy,  see  Vigo, 

For  route  from  Yigo,  see  Vigo, 


■«°<     ' 738-3« 

Atctbi^  tcBipcratufo  ,       .       ,       ,       ia.7 

Maxbnnm       „         (Aofost  to)  37^ 

Mtnunum       ^,         (Jan.  tj.  Fab.. to)  t.o 

Number  of  rainy  days  17* 

Quantity  ialkn   .               ...  1473.66 

We  have  not  been  able  to  obtain  the 
tables  of  mortality  of  Santiago^  but  ao- 
cording  to  those  of  the  province  of 
Corufta,  to  which  it  belongs,  the  pro- 
portion is  of  66  and  48 — aged  between  90 
and  above  100.  The  oold  is  great  in 
winter,  and  the  town  damp  ami  riieu- 
maticsl 

Hotels. — ^Fonda  de  la  Yiscaina  in 
Rua  Grande  and  Las  Animas^  kept  by 
Caries  Garcia. 

General  Doaoription  and  Histo- 
rioal  Notioa.  —  This  out-of-the-way 
dull  dty  is  situated  on  a  hUl  sur- 
rounded by  a  range  of  mountains,  the 
highest  of  which,  the  Pedroso^  rises  to 
the  W.  594  m^t  above  the  sea.  To 
the  S.'are  the  hills  of  Montonto,  Congo, 
and  the  Humilladoiro^  through  which 
passes  the  road  of  the  pUgiLna,  who 
kneel  when  they  first  see  the  towen  of 


366 


SANTIAGO — CATHEDRAL. 


the  ctthedraL  This  former  capital  of 
Galicia  was,  during  the  middle  ages, 
the  most  fashionable  resort  for  pilgrims. 
The  French  Fabliaux  called  those  then 
adyentnrons  toms  by  the  unique  name 
of  'the  pilgrimage  of  Astiuias  and 
Froissart,'  'Le  Pilerinage  dn  Baron 
St  Jaques,'  Baron  el  Santo  Yaron — ^riz. 
the  great  man,  the  hero.  The  patron 
saint  of  Spain,  as  St  Geoige  is  that  of 
England,  and  St  Denis  of  France,  was 
St  James  the  Elder,  brother  of  St 
John  the  Apostle.  He  was  stoned  to 
death  at  Jerusalem.  In  886  the  Bishop 
of  Iria,  Theodomir,  discovered  the 
body  of  the  saint  in  a  wood  close  to  the 
actual  city,  where  a  star  had  pointed  it 
out  to  him.  That  discovery,  truly 
though  not  intentionally  called  an  in- 
vention, stirred  up  Christendom.  Al- 
fonso II.  erected  a  chapel  on  the  site  ; 
huts  at  first  and  subsequently  a  town 
sprang  around  it  Leon  III.  had  the 
body  transferred  to  Santiago,  which  he 
raised  to  a  see.  How  the  body  had 
alighted  in  Galicia,  being  buried  at 
Jerusalem,  and  no  account  showing 
that  it  was  ever  brought  here,  is  a 
miracle  worthy  of  the  rest  A  corn- 
rent)  called  el  Foto  and  el  Marion, 
consisting  of  a  bushel  of  com  from 
every  acre  in  Spain,  was  carefully  col- 
lected by  especial  agents,  and  amounted 
to  a  yearly  income,  for  the  clergy  of 
Santiago,  of  some  £200,000.  The  tax 
was  not  abolished  until  1885.  Alfonso 
el  Msgno  erected  a  magnificent  basilica, 
which  was  razed  by  Al-Mansso^  on 
his  taking  the  city,  the  tutelar's  tomb 
being  alone  respected.  It  wss  rebuilt 
by  Bermudo,  who  made  a  road  for  the 
pilgrims  of  France  and  centre  of  Spain. 
With  Jerusalem,  Rome,  and  Loretto, 
Compostella  (as  Santiago  was  called, 
from  the  star  having  led  to  the  dis- 
covery of  the  saint's  body)  has'  been 
the  most  frequented  and  celebrated 
shrine  in  Christendom,  especially  in 


the  15th  century.  Now-a-day^  antres 
temps,  autres  mosurs.  Pil^msges 
have  changed  their  object,  and  the 
shrines  most  frequented  are  Wiesbaden, 
Yichy,  Luchon ;  and  the  relics  we 
bring  back  with  us  are  long  bills,  long 
faces,  Bohemian  glasses,  and  the  moun- 
tain-stock instead  of  the  pilgrim's  staff, 
bonlon.  This  great  Levitical  city, 
ranking  even  before  Toledo,  haa^  with 
the  daUy  decrease  of  ecclesiastical  in- 
fluence and  wealth,  dwindled  into  a 
third-rate  provincial  town.  Its  streets 
are  narrow  and  dirty,  except  the  Rua 
Nueva,  and  Rua  delYillar.  The  city 
is  built  on  an  uneven  site.  The  Plaza 
del  Pan  wOl  afford  many  a  local  tableau 
to  the  artist,  especially  on  Sundays 
after  mass,  when  the  •  peasants  dsnce 
and  play  at  single-stick  ;  there  is  a 
charming  paseo,-  called  el  Gran  Osmpo 
do  Sta.  Susans,  much  resorted  to.  The 
Calle  Algoria  de  Arriba  teems  with 
local  types.  The  Arcades  of  Rua  del 
Yillar  are  the  evening  lounge.  Here 
are  the  best  shops,  the  curious  Case  del 
Dean,  Cafi^  etc. 

Sights.— The  Cathedral—Hospital 
— Seminario  —  Colegio  de  Fonseca — 
Convent  de  San  Martin — University, 
etc 

CatlctTiL — This  edifice  is  situated  on 
one  side  of  the  handsome  Plaza  Mayor. 
It  was  erected  on  the  site  of  the  former 
cathedral  by  Bishop  Oelmirez,  1082, 
and  it  was  completed  in  1128.  But 
portions  of  the  primitive  basOica  of  the 
11th  century,  erected  by  Bermudo  II. 
and  Bishop  Cresonio,  still  remain,  and 
are,  as  it  were,  encased  in  the  newer 
one.  The  name  of  the  architect  is  not 
known.  The  dyU  is  not  uniform, 
owing  to  considerable  repairs  and  to 
additions  made  at  different  times. 

SxUriar.—Tht  principal  fii^e  was 
raised  in  1788  by  one  Ossas  y  Noboa, 
and  is  modem  in  style.  The  ehnxri- 
gueresque  portal  is  placed  between  two 


SAMTUQO — OATHEDRAL. 


367 


heavy  towera.  Obsenre  the  statae  of 
Santiago,  before  which  kings  are  kneel- 
ing. Examine  also  the  lateral  fSitfade 
de  la  Plateria  with  ita  coloseal  shell, 
concha,  and  the  Pnerta  Santa,  opened 
only  in  time  of  jnbilees^  and  bj  the 
hands  only  of  the  bishop. 

Interior, — ^The  church  is  emciform, 
divided  into  six  naves  and  surrounded 
hj  twenty-five  chapels.  There  is  ele- 
gance and  even  li^^tness  about  it  not- 
withstanding the  great  thickness  of  the 
walls  and  narrowness  of  the  naves. 
The  proportions  are  247  ft  long,  by 
186  ft  wide.  Tlie  piors  are  formed 
by  groups  of  shafts  rising  to  28  feet 
Round  the  choir  and  above  run  low 
galleries  with  an  open  arcade  of  Byzan- 
tine arches.  The  lateral  aides  are  filled 
with  confessional  boxes.  Descend  now 
to  the  subtenanean  chapel,  wherein  are 
placed  the  tombs  of  the  Apostle  and 
his  two  disciples.  In  the  centre  rises 
an  isolated  marble  altar,  of  jasper  and 
marble,  upon  which  is  seated  the  effigy 
of  the  tutelar,  dressed  in  a  rich  pil- 
grim's esdavina,  all  of  silver  and  gold, 
studded  with  precious  stones.  Behind 
him  are  four  statues  of  kings  kneeling 
with  a  second  effigy  of  the  saint;  the 
aureola  (gloiy)  of  which  is  of  rubies 
and  emeralda  Above  is  a  sort  of  py- 
ramid, on  one  side  of  which  St.  James 
is  represented  at  the  battle  of  Gavigo 
killing  the  infidels  by  thousands.  The 
tomb  or  coffin  is  placed  on  four  angels 
seated  on  the  capitals  of  columns,  and 
a  golden  star  crowns  this  strange 
simulacro.  There  were  once  1000 
lamps  burning  incense  before  it— moat 
of  them  were  carried  away  in  1809 ;  but 
the  incensario  under  the  dmborio  still 
remains,  and  gives  an  idea  of  what  the 
rest  must  have  been.  Behind  the  altar 
are  some  steps  which  pilgrims  ascend 
to  kiss  the  sacred  esdavina,  or  hood,  a 
ceremony  which  is  called  el  fin  del 
romsge,  the  end  or  grand    object  of 


the  pilgrimsge^  and  principal  sign  of 
homage. 

C%oir.— The  stalls  were  carved  by 
Oregorio  Espafiol,  in  1606,  and  are  in- 
different ;  the  two  bronxe  pulpits  are 
plateresque,  and  the  magnificent  work 
of  Celma  (1668).  Observe  every  detail 
on  them.  The  JUlieario  contains  the 
usual  anatomical  collection  of  bones, 
and  is  rich  mi  generit.  But  to  mo- 
dem philosophical  tourists  we  prefer 
pointing  out  an  exceedingly  early  piece 
of'  ChrUtian  plate  in  a  rich  crucifix, 
which  contains  a  portion  of  the  Vera 
Cruz.  It  dates  874  1  The  two  Al- 
hambraio  gilt  chandeliers  date  1678. 
Observe  the  enamelled  tombs  of  San 
Cucnfato  and  San  Fructuoso,  the  virgil 
made,  1782,  by  Figuerva,  the  silver 
uma,  eto. 

ChapeU,  —  Observe  attentively  el 
Portico,  one  of  the  earlier  entrances, 
leading  to  the  crucero  and  consisting  of 
three  arches,  with  numberless  and  very 
curious  statues;  all  by  Mateo,  dating 
1188.  Of  the  chapels  visit  more  espe- 
cially that  of  <  £1  Pilar,'  founded  1726. 
The  CapUla  del  Key  de  Franda,  del 
Espiritu  Santo,  de  la  Concepdon,  etc, 
and  the  pariah  chapel.  La  Cartesela,  of 
very  early  style. 

ClauUr$,—Thej  are  said  to  be  the 
largest  in  Spain.  They  were  built,. 
1688,  by  Archbishop  Fonseca,  and  be- 
long to  the  Flamlx^rant  Gothic. 

HospitaL  —  The  Hcspido  de  los 
Reyes,  so  called  because  built  by  Ferdi- 
nand and  Isabella,  for  the  use  of  pil- 
grims, was  the  work  of  Enrique  de 
Egas,  and  dates  1604.  It  is  a  very 
noble  pile,  worthy  alike  of  the  founders 
and  the  architect,  and  forms  a  square 
divided  into  four  quadrangles,  with  a 
chapd  in  the  centre.  The  portal  with 
statues  of  saints  and  pilgrims;  the 
Gothic  and  transition  patios,  the  foun- 
tain, etc.,  are  all  remarkable. 

Seminarlo.— Dates  1777,  and  was 


368 


8KQ0YIA. 


Ibaiided  hj  Aiehbiahop  Baaoj  for  the 
edneationof  yoangpriettta.  The  front 
It  fine  and  ^ecdre.  The  interior  in* 
differeot  end  iU-naed. 

Uniwenity.—Fcfand^d,  1682  hy  Arch- 
biahop  Fonieca.  A  line  cliwical  edifice, 
with  a  good  library 

Oomftmi  cf  San  iforiKii.— Thia  Ttaj 
large  edifice  wia  founded  912,  by  King 
Ordnfio  IL,  and  dedicated  to  thataaint ; 
but  it  hat  aince  been  oonaiderably 
alttred  and  modemited.  It  wat  once 
▼eiy  wealth  J.  Obeenre  the  grand  pi^o 
lelmilt  in  1684{,  the  Doric  entrance  of 


1788,  the  magnificent  fountain,  the 
apacioaa  eorridon^  from  which  extenaiTO 
Tiewt  are  obtained ;  the  aacrittia,  etc. 
The  chnrohea  and  oonventa  and  hooaet 
at  Santiago  hare  no  peenliar  atjle  to 
recommend  them,  and  hare  been  mottly 
modemited. 

B0tJks 0fR^ftftmet,^x,  'Gok  del  Viijefo  ca 
kCde  Suitiago*(cathednl,ctc)  Madrid: 
BaL  Oonnilft,  1847,  prints. 

«.  'Monognfias  de  Saatkfo^  QoMifPt  hit* 
toricos»  Costmnbn*  popnlaret,'  etc,  bjr  Noin 
de   Moaqoenu     Santiago  s    Ctiw|nltrt,  1850^ 


8EQ0VIA. 


Bouiet  and  Oonveyanoea.— 1 .  From 
Madrid  by  raU  to  YUlalba; 
time,  1  hr.  (ezprett);  dit- 
tance^  88  kiL;  farea,  15r. 
26a,  llr.  6O0. 

At  YOlalba,  diligence  aer- 
Ticet^  LoM  PrimiUvas  and 
^Norte  y  Mediodia,  6  hra. 
Farea,  berlina,  lOOr.;  int,  80r.;  hot, 
60r.;  banq.,  40r. 

A  Titit  to  thia  highly  intereat. 
ing  medisTal  city  ahonld  not 
be  omitted  by  lorert  of  the  early  and 
florid  Qothic  ttyle,  and  all  artiata. 

Hotela.— The  accommodation  it  bad ; 
.the  leaat  ao  ia  Cktfe  d$  la  Pieun,  and 

Oeneral  Doaoription. — ^Thia  once 
important  dty  atandt  upon  a  hill, 
waahed  to  the  N.  by  the  Ereama,  which 
ia  joined  here  by  the  noity  rirolet 
Clamoru,  Thit  it  one  of  the  beat  tped- 
ment  extant  of  the  Gotho-Caatilian  dty. 
Stem,  matnye,  breathing  war  and 
antterity,  one  among  the  arittocraoy  of 
dtiet,  it  may  be  likened  to  a  atannch 
Hidalgo,  draped  in  hit  tattered  doak, 
which  looka  like  a  Roman't  purple,  all 
rain,  all  pride,  all  porerty.  The  walla 
and  €iub(m,  the  irregular  narrow  ttreett, 
ita  granite  hooaet  with   wire-worked 


balooniet,  itt  Alcazar  and  cathedral,  all 
apeak  of  the  paat,  and  will  tempt  the 
artitf  a  pendL  It  waa  firat  a  Roman 
Tillaofpleaaore.  The  aqueduct  it  taid  to 
hare  been  erected  by  Tngan  ;  it  carriet 
water  into  the  dty  frran  a  diatance  ol 
about  nine  milea  from  the  Tierra  Fon- 
fria,  and  the  atream  of  the  Rio  Frio. 
Thit  cydopean  work,  formed  of  mnmga 
of  grey  granite  dotted  with  black,  and 
joined  without  cement,  it  60}  m.  long, 
and  it  becomea  a  bridge  when  oppodte 
the  ez-Conrent  of  San  Gabriel,  which 
ia  formed  by  820  archea,  of  which 
thirty-fire^  deatroyed  by  the  Moon 
when  they  tacked  S^goria,  were  re- 
paired, in  1488,  by  Queen  laabella,  who 
employed  Etcoredo,  a  rery  able  Attn- 
rian,  who  alto  built  the  bridget  near 
the  Eretma.  The  highett  aidiea  are 
102  feet  Thoae  leamed  in  theae 
mattera  attert  that  it  waa  built  by  one 
Lidniut,  but  tradition  aacribea  it  to 
Satan,  a  buty  architect  in  Spain,  who 
made  it  in  one  night,  with  the  gallant 
porpoae  of  aaring  a  S^Tiana,  whom 
he  fHmjffWii,  the  trouble  of  going  down 
to  the  riTer  for  water.  She  waa 
touched  by  the  attention,  and  liatened 
to  the  old  aerpenf  a  aoouttomed  i&roU 
d4fiea. 


SSQOVLL 


369 


The  AlomBMT  Is  now  an  artillerj 
ooUege,  well  organised  and  fitted  np. 
(Hr  Permit  firom  8r.  Director.)  This 
once  formidable  fortress  is  most  pic- 
tnresquelj  situated 'at  the  ledge  of  a 
large  rock,  from  which  the  base  Ranges 
into  a  rarine,  at  the  bottom  of  which 
the  Eresma  flows.  It  was  built  and 
designed  by  Alfonso  the  Learned  (end 
of  the  11th  centory),  who  wrote  here 
seyeral  of  his  works.  It  was  repaired 
and  embellished  by  Enriqne  lY.,  1462 ; 
Philip  II.  employing  Herrer%  redeco- 
rated the  saloons;  and  Charles  I.  of 
England  lodged  here,  Sept  18,  1028 ; 
and  here  Oil  Blas^  according  to  Le  Sage, 
was  confined  in  its  dungeons,  ^e 
exterior  of  this  palatial  castle  is  strik- 
ing. ObserrethebnttresseSythetnrrets, 
in  the  centre  of  which  rises  a  square 
tower,  flanked  with  turrets  also,  and  for 
a  long  time  used  as  a  state  dungeon. 
The  interior  is  Gotho-Moorish,  the  work 
of  Arab  artificers  of  end  of  1 4th  century ; 
here  the  shields  of  Castile  and  Latin 
inscriptions  are  mingled  with  rerses  of 
the  Koran ;  sereral  of  the  rooms  haTe 
stalactite  ceilings  of  an  Alhambraic 
pattern,  and  with  frieses  superbly  gilt 

Obsenre  especially  the  SaUm  del 
Tnmo  and  that  d$  BeeOrimiento ;  the 
statues  of  kings  and  queens,  from  1472 
to  1503;  the  inscriptiohs  by  the  his- 
torian Garibay  (1696),  the  copies  of 
which  Philip  IL  corrected  himself. 
Notice  the  room  called  Pimi  del  Gordon, 
80  called  because  King  Alfonso,  whose 
study  it  was,  rentured  one  day  to  doubt 
that  the  sun  rerolves  round  the  earth, 
an  anticipated  '  £  pur  si  muoTe'  (which 
was  to  be  punished  also),  when  a  flash 
of  lightning  interrupted  his  heterodox 
speculation,  in  memory  of  which  the 
rope  of  St  Francis  waa  modelled  and 
sculptured  on  stone  round  the  cornice. 
On  first  floor  is  a  small  room  called  Sala 
de  los  Reyes.  Here,  in  1826,  a  lady  of 
the  court  of  Henry  IIL  let  the  infant 

2 


Don  Pedro  fall  out  of  the  window  into 
the  Kresma.  Her  head,  consequently, 
was  cut  oS.  A  slab  placed  on  a  tomb 
in  the  Chapel  of  the  Alcazar  represents 
the  royal  baby  holding  a  sword— a 
curious  toy  elsewhere^  but  not  in  Spain, 
where  the  princes  of  Asturias  are  bom 
field-marshals. 

The  chapel  is  indifierent ;  an  Adora- 
tion of  the  Magi,  by  Carducho;  the 
arabesques  desenre  notice ;  the  riews 
from  tiie  windows  are  rery  fine.  In 
this  castle  was  also  confined  the  cele- 
brated prime  minirter  and  &Tourite  of 
Philip  y.,  Duke  de  Bipperda,  a  Dutch- 
man, naturalised  Spanish.  He  escaped 
from  this  prison,  became  a  Protestant, 
then  a  Mussulman,  then  a  Bashaw  and 
Oeneralissimo  of  the  Emperor  of  Moroc- 
co, and  died  a  pauper  in  a  hut  near 
Tangier.  Descend  to  the  Eresma  by 
the  Puerta  Oastellaftos.  From  the 
Fuendsla  the  Tiew  of  the  Alcasar  is 
very  striking.  The  diff  above  is  La 
Peikt  Ort^era,  from  which  Sta.  Maria 
del  SaUo  (of  the  leap^  or  Jump),  a 
Jewess  newly  oonrerted,  was  cast  down 
and  reached  the  bottom  unhurt ;  ahe  is 
buried  in  the  church  of  Sta.  Catalina. 
N3.—Th9  Alcazar  has  been  figured  by 
fire ;  the  extent  of  the  damage  we  hara 
not  been  able  to  ascertain. 

Citleiril. — ^It  is  considered  one  of  the 
finest  examples  of  the  florid  Oothio 
style.  It  rises  on  the  site  of  a  former 
church  of  the  11th  century,  which  Al- 
fonso rebuilt  It  was  erected  1626,  hj 
Juan  Oil  ds  Ontafion  and  his  soq,  Eod- 
rigo,  on  the  model  of  that  other  master- 
piece of  theirs;  the  Cathedral  of  Sala- 
manca. It  is  861  ft  long,  by  177  wide ; 
the  central  nare  rises  99  ft,  and  the 
cupola  880  high.  The  west  fii^e  is 
bare ;  the  east  end  is  very  ornamented ; 
the  interior  is  li^t;  simple,  and  pleas- 
ing ;  the  stained  glass  very  fine.  The 
High  Chapel,  high  altar,  iraecora,  and 
parement,  are  aU  of  predoos  maiblgi^ 
B 


370 


8BQ0TIA. 


And  of  the  same  Ib  the  great  teUMo  pat 
up  by  Sabfttini  for  Charles  IIL  The 
rq'as  are  mostly  of  gilt  iron*  and  many 
of  them  desenre  dose  attention.  Okapil 
d4  la  PUdad^  which  is  the  fifth  on  the 
left;  the  retablb^  the  masterpieoe  of 
Joan  de  Jani»  designed  and  ezeeuted 
1571 ;  the  snbject  is  the  Descent  from 
the  C^oes  ;  it  is  one  of  the  finest  scnlp- 
toies  in  Spain.  Obserre  the  beantiM 
expression  of  physical  human  pain  and 
sorrow,  which  diminishes  nowise^  but 
rather  enhances,  the  diyine  beanty  and 
miy'esty  of  the  God.  The  attitude  and 
heartrending  bereavement  of  the  truly 
Mater  Dolorosa ;  the  sublime  character 
with  which  each  of  the  persona  drama- 
tis is  inyested ;  the  absence,  too  rare  in 
Spain,  of  gory  wounds^  ill-suited  gar- 
ments^ and  raw  colouring  all  combine 
to  make  attentire  connoisseurs  question 
the  statement  that  there  are  no  sculp- 
tors in  Spain  I  Obsenre  also  a  picture 
of  Sto.  Tomas,  once  by  Alfonso  Coello, 
1678,  for  its  restoration  has  spared  no- 
thing. The  cloisters  were  built  1524, 
by  Juan  Oampero^  on  the  site  of  former 
ones,  which  were  destroyed  by  the 
Comuneros.  Among  others,  obserre 
the  fine  tomb  of  Bp.  Coyarrubias,  ob. 
1576  ;  that  of  Infante  D.  Pedro,  son  of 
Henrique  II.,  etc 

Outside  the  town  Tisit  the  once 
wealthy  Hieronomite  conyent  of  £1 
Parral(theyineyard).  It  was  built  1547, 
by  Juan  Qallego.  Obserre  the  portal, 
elaborate  coro  stalls  by  Femandes,  1526 ; 
the  superb  choir  by  Juan  de  Ruesga, 
1494 ;  the  high  rotable,  the  work  of 
Urbian  (1526) ;  the  once  magnificent 
sepulchres  of  Uie  founders  (the  Mar- 
queses  de  Yillena),  are  too  seriously  in- 
jured to  desenre  much  attention  ;  we 
must  mention,  besides,  the  cloisters, 
library,  and  fine  refectory. 

The  other  less  remarkable  sights  are: 
the  Hint,  or  Casa  de  la  Moneda,  founded 


by  Alfonso  YIL,  rebuilt  in  1466^  and 
repaired  by  Philip  IL 

The  Mumo  PrcfoituM  oontsins  no- 
thing but  rubbish. 

Ohiirchas.—De*  Santa  (3rus  la  Beal, 
founded  by  the  Catholio  kings.  A  few 
tombs.  Betablo  and r^  of  1557,  agift 
of  Philip  II. 

8(m  Martin.'^k  fine  Gothio  porlid 
and  modem  belfiry. 

8tm  Juan, — Sereral  tombs. 

Son  BtUbani, — ^Tower,  ornamented 
with  five  rows  of  arches,  pointed  and 
circular.  An  open  gallery  at  the  foot, 
with  Byzantine  arches,  resting  on  douUe 
columns  and  huge  capitals.  Curious 
tombs  of  Don  Rodrigo  del  Bio  Qonsalo 
Herrera,  etc 

data  de  Segtma, — ^The  earliest  msn- 
sion  in  the  dty,  that  of  ]farqu4s  del 
Arco^  in  Oalle  de  los  Leones,  with  a  fine 
patio. 

That  of  Zo$  Pieoi,  built  by  Ifarqn^ 
de  Quintaner.  Obsenre  the  sidlent  picos 
or  angels  on  the  facade 

Tcwtrof  SL  Judo  y  PaaUr, — ^Kyery 
street,  erery  gate,  exhibits  so  many 
pictures,  which  desenre  close  examina- 
tion. Obserye  the  Plaza  del  Azoqucjo^ 
and  the  gate  of  San  Andr^  In  the 
Ermita  of  Santo  Oristo  de  Santiago  is  a 
picture  of  1259,  representing  the  Cruci- 
fixion, remarkable  only  for  Uie  fact  that 
the  feet  are  separated,  an  almost  solitary 
instance  in  Spanish  sculpture 

There  is  a  road  oyer  Uie  Guadarrama 
to  La  Graiga  and  to  Escorial.  We  re- 
commend the  diL  and  railway. 

B^okt  ^  Re/trtnet.^x.  *  El  Aqoeducio  y 
otras  Antigttedades  de  Segovia,'  by  Somairo- 
stro ;  Madrid,  Miguel  de  Burgot,  i8ao^  foL 

a.  *  Deacripcioa  de  la  Ciudad  de  Segovia,'  by 
Coloael  Gdngora  y  Delgado.  a  MS.  in  Acad 
Htsr. ;  moat  interetdng  and  reliable. 

3.  *  Fuadacioo  del  Monasterio  del  Fund,'  a 
fol.  MSS.  in  iha  library  of  iha  Imdtnio  at 
Segovia 

4.  *Akasarda  Segovia,**  Madrid.  IflBpraala 
de  Sovdoa  Modoa,  185a. 


871 


SEVILLE. 


SevQle, — Capital  of  prorince  of  Se- 
rille.'  Residence  of  Gaptain-GeneraL 
Popolatioii,  118,298  (1861). 

Boui««  and  OonTeTanooa. — From 
Madrid  Tii  Cordora  (see 
Cordova) ;  hj  rail  through- 
oot;  three  trains  a-day;  £s- 
tance^  181  kiL ;  time,  by  mail  train, 
i  hra.  less  10  mln.  Fares,  1st  eL,  57r. 
76a;2dcL,48r.25c  J^.i^.-^MaUtrain 
has  1st,  2d,  and  8d  class  carriages; 
good  and  comfortable;  coop^  if  de- 
sired, with  the  nsoal  augmentation  of 
price.  Central  ticket-office  at  Seyille, 
No.  2  Plaza  Nnera.  Take  tickets  at 
Madrid,  Alicante  Bailway  office,  direct 
to  Seyille.  Time,  from  Madrid  to 
Serille,  20|  hrs. ;  distance,  678  kil. 
Fares,  1st  cL,  262r.  26c.,  2d  cL,  104r. 
Buffets  at  Cordova  and  Lora  d^  Rio; 
28  min.  stop  at  former. 

The  route  from  Cordora  is  not 
interesting,  and  no  important  towns, 
historical  sights,  etc,  are  trarersed. 
The  Ouadalquirir  is  followed  all  the 
way,  appearing  on  left  as  far  as  Lma, 
and  shortly  a^sr  changing  to  the  right 
as  &r  as  Serille.  See  Andalutia  for 
details  on  this  rirer.  The  following 
are  the  principal  cities  which  the  rail- 
way passes. 

Almodavar. — Situated  on  the  slopes 
of  a  high  hilL  The  castle,  thouj^ 
mostly  ruined,  contains  a  few  haUs  well 
prasenred.  In  it  was  confined  D.  Juana 
de  Lara,  SeRora  de  Viscaya,  by  order 
of  her  brother-in-law,  Don  Pedro  el 
Cruel.  On  learing  the  station,  sereral 
streams  and  torrents,  dry  in  summer, 
ara  crossed.  FaUma  produces  delicious 
orangei^  and  is  situated  amid  a  real 
forest  of  orange-trees.  TheOuadalquiTir 
is  joined  here  by  the  Oenil,  which  flows 
from  On  nada  and  Ec^a.    Pe&aflor,  the 


Roman  Ilipa,  and  then  an  importenl 
strategical  post. 

Lora  da  iSio.— 4600  inhab.  The 
Roman  FlaTia.  Taken  by  King  S.  Fer- 
dinand ;  granted  by  him  to  the  kni^ts 
of  Malta  in  1282.  10  kiL  henoe  lead 
up  to  the  hill  de  Sete  Fillas,  which  is 
crowned  with  a  celebrated  sanctuary 
dedicated  to  a  miraculous  Y iigin,  which 
in  times  of  great  public  calamities  is 
brought  down  to  the  dty  and  pro- 
menaded in  procession.  Its  jewels  and 
dresses  ara  valued  at  £10,000. 

Oamuma  is  one  of  the  cities  in  Spain 
which  have  imsenred  their  eouieur 
locale.  Its  lair,  April  26,  is  therefora 
an  interesting  sight  for  painten  and 
hunten  after  the  picturesque.  16,000 
inhabitants.  It  was  taken  from  the 
Moora  by  St  Ferdinand  in  1247.  He 
gave  the  city  this  motto  :-^'Sicut 
Lucifer  lucet  in  Aurora ;  sic  in  B«tica 
Caimona.*  The  Moorish  castle  was  en- 
larged by  Pedro  el  Cruel,  who  eonyerted 
it  into  a  prison  for  his  female  &Tourites^ 
when  he  either  grew  tired  of  them  or 
Towed  them  to  rengeance.  Hera  wera 
confined  DoAa  Leonora  de  Ghizmaif, 
Aldonza  Coronel,  etc.  This  ruined 
Alcazar,  with  its  tom-up  walls,  rent 
turrets,  lofty,  desolate,  now  the  refuge 
of  the  bat,  is  not  wanting  in  romantic 
appearance.  The  few  monuments  hera 
ara  disfigured  by  the  cal  de  Moron,  with 
which  that  sad  whitewash  is  madewhich 
hides  so  many  treasures  in  Andalnsian 
edifices.  See  the  Puerto  de  SeriUa,  a 
restige  of  the  former  fortifications,  with 
its  gigantic  cubos,  etc.  Ch.  of  Santo 
Maria,  three  naves,  choir  in  centra  of 
church,  preserves  somewhat  the  char- 
acter which  it  had  formerly  of  the 
former  mosque.  Thera  ara  a  few  curious 
private  dweUingi — a  Gotho-Moorish 


372 


SEVILLE. 


one,  in  the  comer  of  FUza  de  Isabel  IL 
with  eight  good  agimes  windows, 
marble  pillareta  and  azulejoa.  There  is 
moch  Moorish  character  still  retained 
aboat  this  town.  •Yehicles  for  Eo^a, 
Marchena,  and  Estepa.     (See  S&mlU 

Todna,  BrmuM,  Oc,  are  decimated  b^ 
tertiary  fevers  fed  and  produced  by  the 
stagnant  waters  of  the  plains^  whidi  the 
Spanish  peasant  neglects ;  and,  nnllke 
the  Moor,  never  thinks  of  draining  and 
converting  it  into  a  sonrce  of  wealth. 
Hence  all  is  poverty  here,  and  the 
proverb  is  trae :  '  Si  vas  k  Brenes  Ueva 
qne  cenes.'  Soon  after  leaving  La  JHn- 
eonada,  the  Oiralda  of  Seville  rises  be- 
fore ns.  To  the  right,  at  some  distance, 
are  the  Toins  of  Itidica ;  a  little  further, 
Santi  Ponoe  and  I^a  Oart^Ja  de  Triana, 
now  a  porcelain-manufactory.  On  the 
left  we  see  the  ancient  ramparts  of 
Seville,  the  Barrio  of  La  Macarcan,  etc. 
At  the  station  areomni^iijei;  for  fares, 
etc.,  see  Seville, 

From  CfadtM  5y  roU  viA  Jerm, — ^Dis- 
tance, 153  kiL ;  time,  5hrs.,  and  4 hrs. 
80  min. ;  two  trains  a<4ay.  Fares,  Ist 
cl,  70r. ;  2d  oL,  61r.  25a  For  route 
tram  Cadiz  to  Jerez,  see  JenM,  From 
JTeres  to  Seville,  thus: — The  railway 
station  is  close  to  the  tobacoo-manu* 
factoiy,  cannon-foundry,  and  palace  of 
Duke  of  Montpensier. 

The  Ouadairo  is  crossed,  after  which 
we  reach  ITJfmiti— 14,018  inhabitants. 
This  town  was  of  some  importance  un- 
der the  Catholic  kings,  and  greater  stUl 
under  the  rule  of  the  Moor,  who  fortified 
itstron^y.  Placed  between  two  hills 
and  in  a  pleasant  valley,  the  country 
around  it  is  most  fertile,  and  teems  with 
com,  oil,  and  wine.  The  com  yields 
6  per  1,  and  oil  is  sold  to  the  amount 
of  some  £14,000  yearly.  28  kiL  E.  is 
the  town  of  Moron.  There  is  a  talk  of 
a  branch  line  through  Moron  to  Osnna, 


with  a  view  to  work  the  rich  marble* 
quarries  dose  to  latter,  and  in  Sierra 
Estepa.  Utrera  stDl  preserves  its 
Moorish  walls  and  thirty-four  turrets, 
all  curious;  and  a  lofty  casUe,  the  Igle- 
sia  Mayor,  has  a  Berruguete-like  facade. 
The  arch  over  the  door  is  decorated  with 
numerous  heads  of  angels^  and  the  door 
itself  is  flanked  by  sUtues  of  SS.  Peter 
and  Panl  in  niches.  Over  is  a  Con- 
ception supported  b7  angels;  and 
above,  the  Eternal  Father.  Three 
nave^  central  one  Gothic  On  the 
whole,  this  church,  which  dates  14th 
century,  is  most  indifferent,  and  pre- 
sents a  medley  of  styles.  The  tower  or 
belfry  is  of  I7th  century.  In  the  high 
chapel  is  the  tomb  of  a  Ponce  de  Leon ; 
indifferent  Santiago  is  older,  and  offers 
an  Oriental  character  outside.  Among 
its  relics  is  carefully  preserved  one  of 
the  thirty  coins  for  which  Judas  sold 
Jesus.  The  bulls  and  horses  of  Utrera 
are  renowned. 

Lebrija.— The  Moorish  NeMshah.-^ 
In  the  older  portion  of  the  castle  there 
is  a  small  chapel  which  retains  thei 
style  of  mosques  of  the  9th  century. 
Three  naves  divided  by  columns,  sup- 
portingoneach  side  three  wide  horseshoe 
arches.  The  Igleaia  Mayor  has  also  a 
strongly  marked  Mooriih  appearance. 
Inside,  the  Moorish  portion  goes  only  as 
far  as  the  transept  The  rest  is  modem ; 
three  naves,  the  capitals  Byzantine. 
Formerly  tlds  mosque  had  the  shape 
of  a  Greek  cross,  and  formed  nine 
similar  portions  with  as  many  cupolas^ 
each  of  different  shape.  It  is  very  like 
in  style  to  the  Ermita  del  Cristo  de  la 
Lus  at  Toledo.  There  is  a  fine  Gothio 
lateral  fa^e  of  beginning  of  18th 
century.  The  high  retablo  in  Iglesia 
Mayor  was  begun  by  Alfonso  Cano's 
father  in  1628,  and  finished  by  the  son 
in  1686.  The  statues  are  by  them,  Hat 
the  pictures  by  one  Pablo  Uegot  Tfaa 
belfry  of  the  church  is  a   copy  made 


SKVILLB. 


373 


in  last  centuiy  of  the  Giralda  of 
SeyxDe.  The  castle  was  erected  bj 
Soleyman  Abd-el-Malek,  who  mled  at 
Sidonia,  and  was  no  better  than  Jos^ 
Maria  and  his  bandidos  in  onr  time  ;  it 
has  been  a  refuge  for  snch  like  pro- 
fesores.  'MatalejTeteaUtreni' is  a 
proTerb  which  speaks  rolnmesL  The 
streets  are  kept  dean  b^  numiog 
•  streams,  and  there  is  a  prettj  Fuente 
forming  an  octagonal  temple.  For 
station  at  Jerei^  see  J$n^ 

From  Cadis  by  the  rirer  Gnadal- 
qniyir.  Time,  8  hrs.  ;  fares,  60r. ; 
breakfast,  8r.  to  lOr.  ;  dinner,  14r.  to 
16r.  ;  table  d'hdte  and  d  la  carU  on 
board  ;  speed  10  to  12  miles  an  hour. 
There  is  a  special  line  of  steamers  ply^ 
log  between  Gadis  and  SeT]lle--the 
Adriano^  Teodoeio^  and  Rapido^  which 
leave  about  three  times  a-week,  besides 
sereralothers.  The  departures  of  all  these 
are  adTertisedin  theSeville  and  Ckdizlo* 
cal  papers.  This  route  is  seldom  taken 
now  that  the  railroad  is  opened,  and  the 
river  itself  has  little  tointerest  save  its 
traditions  and  poetry ;  the  villages  and 
stations  passed  are  most  indtfiereni 
Below  Seville  the  river,  branching  off^ 
forms  two  islands.  The  UHa  Mayor  is 
40  kiL  long,  and  the  Isla  Manor  only 
17.  Bonanza,  not  unlike  a  French 
port  and  village,  and  San  Lucar  de 
Bammeda,  are  passed,  as  well  as  Rota, 
far-famed  for  its  Tintilk  wine.  For 
boat-farea  at  Cadis,  eta,  see  ChdiM. 


Fran  GimiMMla,  mo  CrmmmtU  tnm  StviUt, 
hf  Cocdora  and  Jaen,  tie. 
Fkom  JPMuAi  there  are  3  fvMto; 

X.  Via  Zahani:  IHmgrmty, 


Ronda  lo  ZahaiB 
Puerto  Samdo 
CorocHl     • 
Utrera 
StTiOa     . 


x8 


•  long  dayiT  ridbf  acro«  moottlaiiKNis  country 


very  iMctiire«iiM.     Sleep  at  Zdiarm  (die  new 

VgtUm),  %  Moorish-looking  YiUage,  with  a 
river  and  high  rockt  defendiftg  its  ttrong  po- 
Btioa  Captnred  1461  by  Moley  Hassan. 
The  Goadalete  Is  crossed,  and  then  the  PmtrU 
•aoended.  Sleep  at  CoranU  next  night,  i'Mvdk 
Ntmfm,  and  through  wastes  and  a  few  oliv« 
groonds  to  Utrerm  which  can  be  avoided  by 
going  to  Venta  de  Utrera  only,  and  arriving 
that  same  evening  at  Seville. 

a.  KasOlvera: 


Ronda  to  SetenU     .       .       .    a 
Olvera  «       ,       ,9 

Zaft-aniqgon     ....    a 
Moron  ,    ^ 

by  rail  to  Utrera,  X  h.,  whelwa 

to  Seville  by  a,  t  h. 

Aichal a 

Gaodal 4 

Seville 3 


An  uninteresting  route,  dose  to  Mofoa  are 
▼estiges  of  sihrer-ODunes  now  abandoned,  ftnd 
kwdttones  and  enlerslds  are  found  now  and  then. 
Ride  in  »|  days.  Firrt  night  sleep  at  Oleven, 
nejrt  at  Moron,  and  the  third  arrive  eariy. 

3.  Via  Ec^a,  13I  leagues. 

Jimtrmty,  _ 

Honda  to  SetenildelosBodegM.    3 

Venta  del  Granadal      .       .       .    x^ 

Sanago .  .    •! 

OsuSa •! 

£c^  .  .       .       .    4^  to 

Camona  9  leagues,  wheaoe  by  tail  to  SeviUa. 

(For  BcUa,  see  below.)  Or  oontiaue  by 
Maima,  a  leagues;  Akala  de  Guadira,  a 
leagues:  and  SeviOe,  a  leagues  6  leagues. 
Sleep  at  OsuBa  (see  Grmmmdm  from  StpOit). 
Though  portions  bf  this  route  are  pictnraque, 
itis  seldoes  adopted,  and  not  to  be  noomt- 
mended.  AT.^.  — From  Ec^ja  to  Seville  a 
serrice  of  diligence  betoi^ii^  to  railway 
pany,  and  correspooding  with 
(inchading  xst  d.  by  rail),  ssr. ;  ad  cL,  xftr.,  4 

S-  From  dbnltar  by  Utrsra,  at  leagues. 

Gifandlar  to  San  Roqtte     •  a 

Jhaena  by  Bocileones 

Venta  de  la  Carrera 

ubn<|Ue  (sleep  heie/ 

ViUamartia 

Coroml 

Utrera  (slacphefc) 

Serilla 


4 

4 
4 
9 

t 

9 
9 


374 


SKVILUL 


VoT  wildaad  Mmewfaat  loodj. 

Tnm  Badtf/M  (see  SadtffM). 

To  or  foMB  ^ /Smhm^  flUBcs  (aee  CtfnCpwi). 

To  miaee  oT  XU  TmU  (ridinc),  l»d  mmmU 


Serine  lo  Veata  de  Piganom 
Alganobo    .... 
Casdllo  de  1m  Giuurdtas 
RioTinto    .... 


4 

I 

3 
5 

«3 


Maybe  peHonaed  in  one  loog  day. 
lent  thooCiBC  on  the  way;  the  botany  very 
iotenntiag.  Trarelkn  can  tleep  at  Castillo  de 
las  Goaidiaa,  and  dine  next  day  eaily  at  R. 
Tinto,  where  tbete  is  a  good /M«£s. 

Prom  or  to  Ifmhm  and  AyammU.     To 

Huehra. 

The  best  route  is  to  GmUs:  whence  to  Hoehra 
in  6  horns  by  steamers  (see  GnfisX  If  not  riding ; 
there  are  occasional  small  ships,  calUd  Mtf/MW, 
between  Seville  and  Huehra. 


Seville  to  San  Lucar  k  Mayor 


LnPafana    . 
VOlaiosa 
Niebia        .       . 
San  Joan  dd  Pnerto 
Hnelva       .       . 
GtbraleoB    . 
Cartaya 

Lipe    .       .       . 
Redoodda  * 
Ayamoote    • 


The  accommodaricas  are  wretched,  and  the 

roads  worse. 
For  Httehra,  AyamoolOi  etc,  see  C^to. 

SmH  Xnov— asoo  inhabitants'— is  charm* 
ingly  situated  amid  fertile  plains  called  Htr^ 
cuk^  GmnUM\gf  fSt^  KnltM.  Its  situation,  on  a 
height,  is  pictni«aqoe,  and  the  views  extensive. 
The  olive,  vine,  etc,  abound  hi  its  environs, 
and  Bumetous  flocks  of  sheep  pasture  its  rich 
dehesas  and  prados.  The  dty  itself  is  most 
unintercstii«.  The  streets  dull  and  not  paved. 
The  belfry  <d  the  church  somewhat  resembles 
the  Otralda  oT  Seville,  j  milea  further  is  the 
hamlet  dLM^mmmUU,  i8oo  iohab.,  on  a  height, 
and  celdwated  for  its  wonderful  wine  cf  that 


ATtfMe.— 86o  inhak ; 
old  wall  and  ruins  of  the  castle  of  its '  Condes  ;* 

dull  and  most  indifferent. 
Framorto  StU^.—A,  Bdja  to  La  Pidma, 


as  UL,  riding,   whente  route  9b  above,  tc 
Seville.    Pakna  b  a  station  on  the  Cordova  to 
Seville  fine     ^.    B.  is  preferable.     To  Car- 
mona  by  diligence,  whence  to  Seville  byrafl. 
Fares,  see  routo  4.     C.  Edja.    P0md*  dt  Im 
PMtm-deomd ;  popuhuion  over  a4,ooo  inhah.; 
sttoated  on  the  lefkbank  </  the  Genii  in  a 
pleasant  valley,  and  amid  plentiful  orchards 
and  gardeaa.    It  is  very  cHective  from  a  dis- 
tance, and  the  dty  is  clean,  gay-looking,  and 
the  houses  provided  with  patios,  fountains,  and 
plants.    Little  or  nothing,  save  a  fiew  gates  and 
towers,  remains  of  the  Moorish  period,  in  which 
the  Roman  Astigi,  then  a  most  important  dty, 
was  converted  into   an  agricuknral  centra. 
The  town  bears  for  arms  the  Sun,  and  the 
mottOk  '  Una  sola  serA  Uanuida  la  dudad  de 
Sd;'   and  it  truly  deserves  to  be  the  suaTs 
habitation,  for  this  dty,  graphicany  called 'U 
•arten  (frying-pan)  de  Andahisia.*  is  the  hottest 
place  hi  all  the  S.  of  Europe    For  sightseeing 
visit  the  Pba  Mayor  with  its  arcades,  ncadaib 
salon,  a  favourite  evening  paaeo,  and  its  pretty 
fountain  with  statues ;  around  are  some  curiovs 
nMtmioos,  espedaOy  thoae  of  Benamcgi,  PeBn- 
flor,  and  Town  HalL  In  the  interior  are  several 
other  houses  belonging  to  Marqu^  de  Villa- 
leca  (Duchem  of  Medina  ecu's  brother-fai4aw, 
and  a  great  bull-filter),  Marqu^  de  la  Ga- 
nntia  do  Cortes,  etc     Observe  the  pretty 
patios  covered  with  awnings  in  the  nauner. 
The  theatre  is  roof! om    a  necessary  uii  am wi  in 
that  dimatc     The   Pba  de  Toroa,  where 
some  of  the  best  buU-fights  take  place,  coatabs 
10^000  spectators,  aad  is  built  oa  the  sito  of  a 
Romaodrcus.    Betweea  the  river  and  the  road 
outdde  the  town  is  a  fine  paaeo  with  fwmtaiiM, 
g,^^f^«,  etc,  and  the  monnmmto  dd  Triunfo^ 
which  consists  of  a  piUar  with  ft,  gilt  statue  of 
St.  Paul,  by  whom  the  dty  boastt  to  have  been 
vidted.  Observe,  moreover,  the  quaint  Oriental- 
looking  asul^jo^itudded  church  towers.    Visit 
cspedally  '  La  Calle  de  las  Caballeros,'  where 
the  principal  houses  are  to  be  seen. 

i^^.— There  is  a  road  to  Cordova  over  a 
waste  bad,  10  leagues  through  La  Catlota. 


The  OlimAta.— Seyille  Ib  aheltared 
ftwn  the  N.  and  S.  by  a  doable  wall  of 
hills,  but  it  has  a  laige  gap  towaids 
the  E.  and  W.,  and  is  especially  ex- 
posed to  the  action  of  the  N.E.  and 
S.E.  winds.  The  anemometrio  obser- 
vations made  daring  sereral  years  at 
the  obeenratoiy  of  Seyille  an^  thers- 


lHlf!il,it 


8EVILLB. 


375 


fore,  in  OQntndictioii  with  Dr.  FnaidB, 
who^  in  his  work  on  the  climate  of 
Spahi,  statee  qnita  the  oontnoy,  Msign- 
ing  importance  to  the  N.  wind.    The 
prerailing  winds  sre  the  lersnte  (E.), 
and  poniente  (W.aW.) ;   the  former 
blowing  mostly  in  snmmei^  and  spring, 
and  the  latter  in  antnmn  and  winter. 
The  Uvanie,  as  redoubtable   here  as 
at  Gibraltar,  and  the  Malaga  terral, 
excites  the  nenrons  system,  congests 
the  bimin,  produces  irritation,  which 
is  often  followed  by  qnarrels  and  mur- 
der.    It  is  a  burning  blast,  a  scorch- 
ing  breath  from  the  desert ;  when  it 
blows,  do  therefore  as  the  natives — ^riz. 
close  hermetically  both  doors  and  win- 
dows. The  poniente  is  moist  and  balmy, 
and  is  often  accompanied  by  rain.   It  is 
preralent  in  Norember,  December,  and 
spring.  According  to  Dr.  Francis,  Lee, 
and  others,   compared  with  southern 
Spain    in   general,   Seyille  would   be 
termed  wet,  but  if  witli  England,  essen- 
tially dry.    These  are  so  many  mis- 
takes, and  the  result  usually  attending 
hurried  surreys  of  a  country,  and  re- 
liance on  personal  experience  or  acci- 
dental   information.      Following  the 
more  accurate  calculations  of  the  obser- 
Tatofy,  eta,  we  see  that  in  1859  there 
were  only  84  rainy  days  in  the  whole 
year,  the  quantity  being  782  miL ;  in 
1860  it  rsined  27  days,  the  quantity 
being  887*7  mil ;  and  there  are  years 
without  one  single  day's  rain.    Storms 
are  most  rare;  snow  amongst  things 
unknown ;   and  iiost  but  very  light, 
and  the  consequence  of  the  heayy  dew 
in  winter.    As  to  temperature,  winter 
really  does  not  exist  at  Serille.     The 
air  is  balmy,  genial,  and  salubrious. 
There  are  seldom  sny  sudden  changes ; 
8*  Cent  difference  is  the   maximum 
obserred,  and  that  only  in  spring  and 
autumn.    The  nights  are  fresh  here,  as 
elsewhere^  in  Andalusia.    In  summer 
the  heat^  when  the  leranter  prcTails,  is 


most  sultry  and  insupportable,  and  the 
thermometer  then  rises  to  28*  Cent,  and 
eren  80*  Cent  or  more,  in  the  shade. 
The  thermometer,  from  six  years' 
constant  obserration  by  D.  Sancho, 
marked  on  an  average  18*  2  Rh.  (20* 
8  Cent),  the  quioksilTer  never  falling 
below+  8  +  4*  Cent  at  bf«ak  of  day, 
and  keeping  between  12*  and  14*  Cent 
in  the  day. 

TmUet»t, 

Avtnce  atnwpheiic  ptcMuw        .  761.05 
»t      wimuu  tenperatura  .  so^3 

Tcnqpenture,  nuurimum  (Aug.)  48.3 

•>  ounimum  (Jan.)  as 

Number  of  ninjr  day*    ...      34 

Qiitndty  fiUlen       ....  TjsauL 


AKMt  OF  SBVILLB. 

Serine  ii  most  stron^^y  recommend- 
ed as  a  spring  residence,  and  may  be 
visited  also  in  the  early  part  of  autumn. 
For  the  summer,  Cadix,  Valencia,  Pal- 
ma  (Balearic  Isles),  would  suit  better, 
without  mentioning  Ronda  and  Oiana* 
da,  which,  however,  are  also  better 
suited  for  spring  snd  autumn  than 
summer.  This  climate  is  favourable  to 
scrofulous  and  lymphatic  constitutions, 
to  convalescents,  especially  in  the  case 
of  exhaustion  and  prostration  attending 
protracted  fevers,  poorness  of  blood,  and 
where  the  general  system  requires  to  be 
tonified;  old  snd  protrsctod  coughs 
snd  colds,  and  chronic  catarrii,  unat- 
tended by  inflammation.  As  to  con-, 
sumption,  those  suffering  from  it,  in 
whatever  degree,  except  perhaps  the 
primary  ones  will  do  w^  to  avoid  this 


876 


SEVnUL 


ezcitiiig  climate.  It  will  benefit '  tlioee 
■uffeHng  from  dyipepsia  of  an  atonic 
character/  aajs  Br.  Lee^  'or  whoee 
general  haalth  is  disordered,  without 
any  definite  local  diaease.  There  is  no 
endemic  malady  at  Seyille.  In  the  en- 
virons, fanbonigs»  and  yiDages  along 
the  banks  of  the  GnadalqniTir,  inter- 
mittent ferers  are  Teiy  general  The 
mortality  waa  1  in  89  (1860),  1  in  40 
\1861),  tiie  arerage  of  Spain  being  1  in 
88.  In  1868  there  were  9  oentenariana, 
and  67  aged  between  96  to  100. 

Hotels.— 1.  Hdtel  de  Paris,  kept  by 
Italians.  Italian  oookin^^  good.  Well 
dtnated,  dose  to  picture-gallery,  in 
Placa  de  la  Magdalena.  Ghiuges  high. 
Table  d'hdte  at  5.80  P.M.  16r.,  comfort- 
able. Laquais  de  place  (6f.  a-day). 
During  the  summer,  take  a  cuarto  biyo 
(ground-floor).  During  the  Holy  Week, 
Feria,  and  other  gatherings  of  forasteroa, 
write  beforehand  for  rooms,  and  expect 
to  be  fleeced. 

2.  Hdtel  de  Madrid,  same  situation, 
Tery  good.  Kept  by  Spaniards,  dWl 
and  reasonable.  Charges  about  the 
same  as  at  former.  VTinst  rery  in- 
different at  either ;  see  below  where  to 
get  them. 

8.  H6tel  de  Londres,  extortionate^ 
and  not  dean.  H6td  de  I'Europe,  in 
the  narrow  but  fashionable  Calle  de  las 
Sierpes.  Very  old  establiahed  house. 
BoOTis  gloomy  snd  low.  Prices  mode- 
rate. Oenuine  Jeres  wine  of  Domecq'a. 
.  Lodifingi.—ff<mM$  to  UL— They  QUI' 
not  be  recommended,  being  dirty,  ill- 
ftimished,  etc.  Terms  Tery  low.  The 
local  papers  advertise  the  best  A  good 
OatiM,  Members  introduce  foidgners 
for  a  fortnight  Knglisb  and  French 
papers 

Hlstorloal  Votioo.— Leaving  aside 
aU  the  gucM-work  of  pedantic  etymolo- 
gists,  who  ascribe  the  origin  of  Seville 
to  Hereules,  Bacchus,  etc*  which  may, 
perhapi^  be  considered  as  so  many 


personifications  of  the  PhoBnidans  and 
Chaldttans,  we  must,  neverthdess,  ad- 
mit the  great  antiquity  of  this  dty.  If 
we  are  to  believe  A.  Montano,  Bochart, 
and  others,  the  Mains  ii  derived  from 
the  PhoBuician  Sephda,  or  Spela,  mean- 
ing a  plain,  and  thus  alluding  to  the 
dtnation  of  the  town.  The  Greeks 
called  it  Ispda,  converted  into  the 
Boman  Ispalis ;  the  Moors,  IshbOiyi, 
which  finally  became  Sevilla. 

Orifftn  amd  Pngru$, — Seville  waa 
a  prosperous  port  under  the  Phoeni- 
ciuis,  snd  diared  with  Cordova  and 
Gadira  (Cadis)  the  monopoly  of  the 
trade  of  Western  Europe.  Under  the 
Bomans,  B«tica  was  signally  favoured 
by  the  Sdpios.  Cordova  became  the 
abode  of  the  aristocracy  of  the  land, 
and  the  repodtoiy  of  arts  snd  sciences ; 
and  Cadis,  then  called  Gadei^  a  most 
important  trading  mart  But  to  Spain, 
whose  fate  it  has  so  often  been  to  be- 
come the  battle-field  of  Europe,  now 
came  Cssar,  and  the  fate  of  the  empire 
was  decided.  After  a  dcge  and  a 
battle,  which  took  place  between  the 
actual  Puerta  de  Jeres  and  Arroyo 
Quadiana  (Ossar's  fleet  lying  between 
Torre  dd  Oro  snd  palace  of  San  Td- 
mo),  Julius  Csear  entered  the  dty,  Aug. 
9,  46  B.a,  a  victory  which  he  condder^ 
important  enough  to  cause  it  to  be  in- 
scribed on  the  Boman  calender;  and, 
neglecting  Cordova  and  Cadis,  which 
had  followed  his  rivd's  fortunes  and 
party,  he  patronised  this  then  but  little 
important  dty,  called  it  Julia  Bomulea, 
declared  it  the  head  of  Boman  B«tica, 
enlarged  it,  strengthened,  rebuilt,  and 
augmented  its  fortifications,  snd  by 
grants  snd  privfleges  made  it  a  favourite 
residence  with  the  patridana  of  Bome^ 
severd  of  whom  established  themsdves 
here.  Of  its  msgnificence  and  pros- 
perity-during  the  Boman  nile^  of  which 
Seville  possessed  so  many  splendid 
monumental  there  are  still  ma^y  vt«' 


8BVILLB. 


377 


tiges  left,  such  as  tho  aqu^uei,  Oaftot 
de  Oannona,  a  worthy  rival  of  that  at 
SegoYiai  the  mine  of  Italica,  the  amphi- 
theatre, Santi  Ponoe^  statuea,  oolumns, 
coins  dug  up  oonatantly,  and  portions 
of  the  Walls  and  towers.  The  pagan 
religion,  originally  imported  into  Seville 
by  tiie  traders  of  Tyre,  was  remarkable 
for  certain  ritea^  and  especially  the  wor- 
ship of  Venns,  under  the  name  of  Salam- 
bo.  This  particular  worship  spread  from 
£fyria  and  Babylonia  to  Egypt  and 
Oreeoe,  but  never  went  further  W.  than 
Bouth  Andalusia,  and  Seville  was  the 
only  dty  of  the  western  world  where 
there  were  temples  to  that  deity,  besides 
the  customary  ones  to  the  Sun,  Her- 
culei^  Bacchus,  liars,  etc.  The  Adonis, 
or  Festivals  of  Salambo  (so  called  from 
Adonis),  took  place  in  July,  when,  on 
certain  appointed  days,  the  eflSgy  of 
Yenus'used  to  be  borne  through  the 
city  in  procession  on  the  shoulders  of 
the  noblest  ladiei^  whilst  the  people 
followed  weeping,  and  clad  in  mourning, 
in  remembrance  of  the  goddess'  grieir 
at  the  loss  of  Adonis.  As  this  statue^ 
doubtless  made  of  precious  metals,  was 
one  day  being  carried  through  the 
Barrio  de  Triana,  two  girls,  newly 
converted  to  Christianity,  Justa  and 
her  sister  Bufina,  who  were  selling 
OMiAarrM  (earthenware  vases),  on  the 
passing  of  the  idol  would  not  submit  to 
do  it  reverence^  upon  which  the  besrers 
dropped  the  heavy  burden  among  their 
pots  and  vases,  and  the  incensed  multi- 
tude determined  them  to  death.  These 
martyrs  became  the  tutelars  of  Seville, 
and  have  been  as  such  represented  by 
MuriUo^  holding  the  Oiralda  in  their 

The  SOingl  Vandals,  in  the  beginning 
of  6th  century,  made  SevOle  thdr  court 
and  capital,  and  it  continued  to  be  so 
under  the  Goths  from  631  to  684,  when 
San  Hermenegildo  left  Seville,  and, 
after  aljiiiing  Arianisni,  was  oondemned 


to  death  l^  his  own  father,  and  became 
a  martyr.  The  year  after  the  battle  of 
the  Quadalete^  and  after  one  month's 
si^ge^  Seville  opened  her  gatea  to  the 
Moor,  Abdul-Ans,  who  ruled  over  it 
for  some  time^  and  married  Boderick's' 
widow,  EgQona,  whence  dissensions  be- 
gan within  its  walls.  However,  Seville 
continued  to  be  but  a  province  depend- 
ent on  Damascus  until  the  middle  of 
the  8th  century,  when  it  became  the 
spoil  of  the  Ummey^  fiunily,  who 
held  the  western  khaliiate  at  Cordova, 
and  fell  a  prey  to  the  fends  which 
divided  the  powerful  and  alternately 
successful  tribes  of  the  Almohades  and 
Almoravides.  Under  the  former,  Seville 
became  most  prosperous.  Silk-manu- 
factories (180,000  persons  were  engsged 
in  the  silk  trade) ;  fiibrics  of  all  sorts, 
schools  and  universitiei^  extensive  trade 
with  the  east  and  aouth  <^  Europe,  all 
contributed  to  making  it  the  most  im- 
portant dty  in  Spain,  after  Cordova. 
But  the  defeat  of  the  Almohades  at  Las 
Nava%  the  treason  of  the  rival  Arabio 
races,  and  the  jealousy  of  the  petty 
sheiks,  contributed  to  gradually  pave 
the  way  for  the  Christians.  King  St 
Ferdinand  now  advanced  boldly,  and  at 
the  head  of  the  flower  of  the  nobility  of 
Castile  and  Leon  hdd  siege  (1247)  to 
the  dty,  which,  after  16  months'  re- 
sistance^ surrendered  to  the  Christians, 
who  entered  Dec  S2,  1248.  Of  the 
12,000  Moorish  famiHes  then  inhabiting 
Seville,  many  were  allowed  to  remain, 
but  most  pieferred  leaving  it  With 
them  departed  the  glory  of  Ishbiliih, 
its  arts,  and  learning,  and  refinement 
St  Ferdinand  distributed  the  Und  and 
dty  among  his  followers,  an  important 
eventwhichiscalled  *£1  Bepartimianto,' 
and  which,  begun  in  Jan.  1261,  was 
continued  and  conduded  by  Alfonso 
the  Learned,  1262.  Grants  of  lands 
were  bestowed  on  those  who  had  most 
dirtinguished    themselves,    and    100 


378 


SKvnjjs. 


hidalgos  were  chosen  to  found  the  no- 
bility of  Seville.  To  foreigners  were 
allotted  especial  quarter^  whenoe  the 
present  names  of  Calle  de  Oatalinei^ 
Placentjnes,  de  Bayona,  Alemanes,  de 
Genoa,  eta  Each  trade  obtained  a  par- 
tioniar  portion  of  the  city;  whenoe  also 
CSalle  de  Plateros,  Sederos,  Borcegoin- 
eroi^  etc  The  seamen  (gente  de  mar) 
were  lodged  aronnd  the  otthedral,  that 
Saara  Navii;  the  nobility  lived  doee 
to  the  Alcasar ;  the  Jews  inhabited  the 
banioSi  now  cidled  parroqnias  de  Sta. 
Cms,  Sta.  Maria  la  Blanca,  St  Bartolo- 
ni^  etc  ;  and  the  Moors  were  confined 
betweeen  the  present  parishes  of  S. 
Salvador,  Q,  Pedro^  Q,  Oatalina,  and  S. 
Isidrc  The  fneros  of  Toledo  were 
applied  to  the  administration  of  justice 
llinsended  the  Mnssolman'smle,  which 
had  lasted  630  years  ;  snd  to  soch  an 
extent  had  its  prosperity  attained,  that 
a  few  days  after  the  surrender  of  the 
dty,  400,000  Moor%  Jews,  and  Arabs 
(which  oonstitnted  its  population),  aban- 
doned it 

Ferdinand's  son,  Alfonso^  had  to  en- 
counter many  dilBcultiei^  and  hii  own 
son  rebelled  against  his  authority ;  but 
amid  many  though  partial  defections 
in  his  proTinoes,  Seville  always  stood 
by  him.  Hence  the  badge  he  granted 
to  this  city  is  seen  everywhere  on  its 
buildings,  and  it  is  called  SI  nodo 
(nodo),  and  is  thus  represented  : 
NO.  8  Da  (lee  psge  876)  meaning, 
<no  m'  ha  (me  ha),  dqja-do  (d^ado) ;' 
'  It  has  not  deserted  me,'  the  figure  in 
the  centre  representing  a  hank  or  skein 
(cslled  in  Spanish  Mad^'a,)  SeviUe 
became  the  court  of  king%  and  \b 
linked  with  the  romantic  but  bloody 
history  of  Don  Pedro  el  Cruel,  and  the 
several  feuds  and  strife  that  continued 
among  the  Christian  sheiks  or  gran- 
dees, Marq.  of  Cadis,  Medina  Sidonia, 
Kiebla,  etc  It  often  was  the  chosen 
residence  of  the  Catholic  king^  and 


the  discovery  of  America,  by  making 
it  the  emporium  of  the  world,  revived 
its  former  prosperity.  From  its  port 
sailed  PisaniH  Columbus;  and  Cort^ 
In  the  16th  century,  Seville  was  the 
court  of  the  merchant  princes  of  that 
wealthy  age  It  became  the  prey  of 
the  French  in  1808.  Soult,  who  niled 
its  destinies  for  a  whOe,  levied  exorbi* 
tknt  taxes;  and  the  Spanish  authors 
estimate  the  French  plunder  at  six 
millions  sterling,  not  including  the 
Murillos  that  were  carried  off  to  Paris. 
The  battle  of  Salamanca  delivered 
Seville  from  the  hated  Qaul,  Aug.  17, 
1818.  The  En^ish  entered  it  amid 
enthusiastic  acclamations  and  out- 
bursts of  gratitude. 
Oeneral  Dasoription.— 

Fair  b  proud  Sevilltt,  let  her  ooaatfy  boMt 
Her  streogth,  her  wedth,  her  tiim  of  ftncieaC 
days.  DviiON. 

The  |Nmi<ani<<«o  (boasting)  Sevillanos 
declare  that: — 

QuieD  BO  hft  viilo  Scrilla 
No  hft  visto  ouumvOla: 

which  is  a  worthy  pendant  to^  and  quite 
as  accurate  as,  the  rival  Qranadino's — 

Qyien  ao  h>  rieto  Cra— <!■ 
No  ha  visto  nada. 

Seville  is,  beycmd  doubt,  one  of  the 
most  interesting  and  .  most  pleasant 
dtiee  in  Spain.  Madrid  is  nothing  but 
a  French  town,  on  the  walls  of  which, 
as  on  the  Bordeaux  and  Paris  shops, 
miglit  be  written  *aqui  m  habla  £$• 
paM,*  Burgos,  Oviedo,  Leon,  sre  the 
true  types  of  the  Qotho-Castilian  dty 
of  medieval  times ;  ^oomy,  dull,  wind- 
blown, massive,  snd  severe;  whilst 
Seville  represents  the  Moorish  period 
in  all  the  bri^tness,  elegance^  and 
splendour  of  its  peculisr  character.  It 
is  thus  a  picture  of  bliss  and  grace 
framed  by  verdant  plains,  fringed  with 
orange-grovel^  and  lighted  by  tibe  gkri-' 
ous  sun  that  shines  on  that  blessed 
land,  *la  H$rra  d§  Maria  mmMmn. 


sxvnuL 


379 


It  was  the  bdored  dty  of  the  Moelem 
— ^the  gold  and  lace  tent  of  the  aensual 
eastern — ^who  jdanted  it  on  the  banks 
<^  the  Gaadalquivir  to  dream  life  away 
amid  the  enchantments  of  refined  taste, 
and  on  which  he  lavished  his  gold  and 
genius  to  adorn,  and  his  Uood  to  defend 
and  fortify.  Its  banars  were  then  foil 
of  the  richest  silks,  in  which  upwards 
of  two  hundred  thousand  persons  were 
employed.  Its  schools,  rivals  in  learn- 
ing of  those  at  Cordova  and  Qranada, 
were  frequented  by  the  very  Castilian 
and  Aragonese  princes  whose  fathers 
envied  the  magnificence  of  this  court, 
and  dreaded  the  valour  <^  its  armies  ; 
indeed,  when  we  compare  what  Seville 
was  under  the  Goths,  and  would  have 
continued,  probably,  to  be  had  their 
rule  lasted  longer,  to  what  it  became  in 
the  hands  of  the  Moors — ^not  only  a  city 
of  pleasures  and  the  repository  of  arts, 
but  the  centre  (with  Cordova)  of  Euro* 
'pean  civilisation~we  cannot  help  de- 
ploring its  fate,  and  that  the  nature  of 
the  legislation  should  have  led  to  the 
ruin  of  their  empire,  which  ushered  in 
its  stead  the  intolerant,  unpractical, 
all-levelling  policy  of  the  covetous, 
tradeless,  and  rude  descendants  of  the 
Goth,  who  squandered  his  eneigies  in 
fighting  but  too  well  the  battles  of 
the  Vatican.  The  hi^^-bred  courteous 
Moors  passed  away  as  though  they  had 
been  temporary  tenants  ^  the  land, 
leaving  Seville  and  all  Andalusia  like  a 
body  suddenly  deprived  of  life. 

Christian  Spain,  strange  to  say,  which 
possessed  within  itself^  for  seven  cen* 
turiei^  the  best  examples  and  types  of 
Eastern  civilisation,  knew  not  how 
to  assimilate  the  Moorish  sjstem  to  her 
wants  and  spirit,  whilst  other  nations 
of  Europe  who  had  occasion,  during  the 
Crusades^  to  live  in  dose  tiiough  tem- 
poraiy  contact  with  it,  submitted  to  its 
influence,  which  spread  to  their  Icgisla- 
tion,  trade,  art,  and  even  customs^ 


infusing  new  life  and  refinement  But 
that  system  of  centralisation  which  the 
unity  of  religion  apjdied  to  Spain 
(although  impeded  by  the  natural  con- 
figuration of  the  country  and  the  difier- 
ent  histoiy,  race^  and  language  <^  the 
various  provinces),  has  not  ceased  to  be, 
from  those  times  to  the  present  day,  the 
golden  dream  of  statesmen,  and  was  the 
death-blow  to  the  prosperity  of  Seville, 
and  a  continual  obstacle  to  the  develop- 
ment of  the  resources  of  the  country  at 
laige.  A  revival,  however,  may  now 
be  expected  under  the  modem  regime 
of  railways  eta 

The  diinate,  soil,  and  situation  of 
Seville  are  admirable,  and  its  friture 
prosperity  on  this  account  alone  is  very 
encouraging^  for  it  ii  placed  in  a  most 
fertile  extensive  plain  on  the  banks  of 
a  large  navigable  river,  which  requires 
only  a  few  works  to  prevent  friture 
inundations  and  widen  the  embouchure. 
Within  a  few  hours  from  the  ocean,  on 
the  passage  of  all  the  trade  between  the 
£ast»  Itidy,  and  northern  Europe,  it 
already  ranks  among  the  most  import- 
ant ooromeroial  dties  in  Spain.  The 
prindpal  artides  of  export  are  otmnges^ 
oil,  lead,  copper,  liqu<moe^  woollens, 
and  cork,  prindpally  sent  to  England, 
France^  and  Belgium ;  and  oil,  olives, 
garhanios^  and  pastas,  maocaronJ,  etc, 
to  Cuba  and  Porto  Rico.  The  imports 
consist  of  woollens,  silks,  cottons,  and 
other  spun  artides;  tin,  hardware, 
doths,  and  fine  linen  from  England ; 
common  linen,  drugs,  and  spices  from 
FVance ;  cheese  and  butter  from  Ham- 
burg; wood  and  cod-fish  from  Sweden; 
sugar  and  cocoa  from  America ;  cinna- 
mon, sugar,  pepper,  tea,  silk  shawls, 
and  other  articles  firom  China  and  the 
Filipinas.  It  is  connected  to  the  capi- 
tal by  railway,  and  communicates  with 
the  Mediterranean  ports  of  Malaga  and 
Alicante.  It  contains  some  of  the  most 
celebrated  works  of  human  genius  in  its 


380 


SBVILLI. 


chnrchefl^  galleries,  and  libfariee^  and 
aboondi  in  novel  and  channing  coa- 
tomea  and  yeatigea  of  bygone  times. 
The  dtj  rises  822  ft  (Spanish)  ahore  the 
sea,  and  lies  principally  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  Qnadalqniyir  (the  WadA-l-£ebir 
or  great  river  of  the  Moor ;  Len  Baro, 
of  the  Spanish  gipsies;  and  the  Ramans' 
B«tis),  This  river  seperates  the  dty 
proper  from  ita  barrio  of  Triana,  the 
exclnsive  quarter  of  the  gipsies  and 
lower  ordera.  The  narrow  winding 
lanea  (misnamed  CalUi)  present  a  pox- 
zling  intricacy,  nmnbering  opwardi  of 
477,  and  spreading  over  the  snrliMse  of 
the  dty  like  the  arterial  system  in  the 
human  body,  and  of  whidi  the  Plata 
d$  la  Enearnadcn  wonld  be  the  heart. 
These  long  corridors,  oool  and  ahady  in 
sommer,  are,  with  a  few  exceptions, 
admirably  paved,  parposdy  so,  we 
should  hope,  to  rest  the  tiny  foot  of  the 
Sevillana,  who— 

Cob  pfimor  to  caba  d  pU 
DifDO  de  rcgio  ti^Ns. 

The  Sevillanas  are  the  prettiest  type 
of  Andalnsian  beauty,  and  exhibit  the 
deep  blue-black  eyei^  aometimes  ador- 
miladoa,  and  at  others  foil  of  fire ;  each 
tkjmlkUada;  small  foreheads,  and  raven 
hair,  long  and  ailky,  which  they  might 
almost  turn  by  night  into  a  bahny  soft 
pillow,  and  a  long  flowing  mantilla  by 
day.  They  possess,  moreover,  a  pecu- 
liar mento,  mU,  and  hideacribable  chann, 
naturalness,  and  grace  in  eveiy  move- 
ment, together  with  a  manner  foil  of 
livelineas  and  repartee.  Dress,  the 
bull-fight,  Yerdi's  operas,  and  pelar  la 
ptmBO,  are  the  objecta  of  her  existence ; 
and  she  is  worthy  of  all  the  jkfu  that 
&11  from  the  passer-by,  of  the  gallant 
majo  and  strolling  utuMamit, 


KIdkiqiMtn 
Nadefon  todfti  las  lloivt, 
Y  «n  la  pQa  del  baatiaaM 
Caataraalos 


I/M  cipwaci  da  tu 
Estill  vesddos  de  luto, 

Y  es  porque  no  deneo  fiofei^ 
Qua  ofreoerte  por  tribaco. 

El  nanuijo  de  tu  patio, 
Cuando  te  acercas  a  ei 
Se  despreode  de  sus  fiorai^ 

Y  te  las  echa  a  los  pi6s. 

Tu  coerpo  parece  un  Jnaco^ 
Ta  cabeta  una  nara^ia, 
Tu  pecho  on  Jaidin  de  fiofvi^ 
Doode 


ToflM  alU  ni  cofasoQ, 
Metetdo  ea  d  ooipffio, 
Y  amiUalo  ooiBO  un  nflto 
Que  Uora  y  tiene  raaoo. 

Seville  may  be  said  to  be  stQl  the 
dty  of  the  guitar,  the  fan,  the  song^  and 
fandango ;  the  ne  plus  uUra  and  amriya 
mia  of  the  mijo  and  bull-fighter,  of 
the  gipsy  and  contrabandist ;  the  ren- 
desvous  of  the  most  picturesque  black- 
guarda  in  the  south  of  Spain,  whoae 
beds  are  the  steps  of  churohei^  and  who 
lounge  and  hang  about  the  aubnrban 
tabema%  breakfast  on  a  j^aas  of  water, 
and  dine  on  an  air  on  the  guitar,  argue 
among  each  other  with  the  navija  and 
other  auch  arguments  of  poinU;  make 
love  to  their  neighbour^a  pocket,  and 
know  of  heaven  what  they  see  of  it 
through  the  golden  juice  <^  an  orange^ 
as  they  lie  on  thdr  backs  in  the  cool 
shade,  a  picture  <^  contentment  and 
sweet  idleness.  The  town  haa  pre- 
aerved  more  of  the  character  of  the  16th 
and  17th  oenturiea  than  of  the  Mooriah 
period,  of  which,  however,  many  ves- 
tiges remain.  This  is  shown  in  the 
style  of  the  private  houses  of  the  no- 
bUity,  the  general  appearance  of  the 
edifices,  etc.,  which  aU  exhibit  the  in- 
fluence of  Italian  taste,  and  its  happy 
oombination  with  the  Mooriah  styleu 
The  people  themselves  seem  to  hava 
lost  that  graven  solemn,  stem,  and 
melancholy  mood  of  the  Spaniard  of 
the  16th  century,  which  he  inharitsd 


SEYILLBi 


381 


from  the  Moots,  and  to  retain  only 
that  gay,  brilliant  capa  y  eapada,  devil- 
may-care  hmnoor  of  the  17th  century 
in  Spain,  coupled  with  the  more  sombre 
types  of  the  inquisitorial  and  inqnisi- 
tioned,  somewhat  suspicions,  jealous, 
and  haughty  spirit  of  Lope  de  Bneda, 
Cslderon's,  and  Yega's  drtmas.  Seville 
is  still  in  many  points  the  city  of  plea- 
sure and  bye,  of  Beaumsiohais  and 
Boaam**  Barbiire, 

The  houses  are  superior  to  thoee  of 
the  rest  of  Andalnsian  citiei^  in  style 
and  appearance ;  they  are  generally  of 
two  or  three  storeys,  gaily  painted  out- 
side, with  lofty  rooms,  numerous  rejas, 
charming  patios  or  inner  courts,  which, 
during  Uie  summer,  are  ooTered  with 
an  awning,  and  furnished  with  pianos, 
sofas,  etc.,  for  the  eyening  tertuliOf 
when  the  whole  town  is  conrerted  into 
a  yast  drawing-room.  They  are,  more- 
oyer,  decorated  with  brightly-painted 
and  gilt  miradores,  which,  wiUi  their 
glass  and  flowers,  look  like  conserya- 
tories  suspended.  A  lengthened  resi- 
dence will  be  found  more  pleasant  here 
than  anywhere  else  in  Spain.  There  is 
a  great  deal  to  see,  and  seyeral  days 
will  be  necessary  to  cany  away  some 
definite  impression  of  the  town  and  its 
contents.  The  cathedral,  which  is 
considered  the  finest  in  Europe,  next 
to,  some  say  before,  St  Peter's  of  Bome; 
the  Alcazar,  that  splendid  Moorish 
riyal  of  the  Alhambra ;  the  exquisite 
OiraUkt,  the  best  specimen  of  the  kind 
extant;  the  Mimo,  La  Oaridad,  and 
other  churches^  which  contain  the 
masterpieces  of  the  Seyillian  painten^ 
Murillo,  Las  Roelas,  Zurbaran,  Herrera, 
etc. ;  the  ruins  of  Italics,  the  birth- 
place of  the  Roman  Emperors  Adrian, 
Tnjan,  and  Theodosius ;  the-  Colum- 
bine Ubraiy,  and  Indian  arohiyes, 
which  contidn  treasures  almost  un- 
known, and  as  yet  but  imperfectly  in- 
yestigated  ;    Triama^    and   its  gipsy 


dances  and  costumes  ;  the  semana  santa 
(Holy  Week),  functions  which  are  re- 
sorted to  (torn  all  parts  of  Spain,  and 
rank  next  to  those  at  Rome,  in  the 
magnificence  of  the  pageant ;  those  also 
of  the  Corpus,  St  John's  day,  and 
jyTodbs  de  Navidad,  equally  full  of  inte- 
rest, and  on  a  large  scale.  Such  are 
the  sights  and  prospects  which  greet 
the  trayeller.  There  is  besides  no  lack 
of  amusements,  although  on  a  yery 
limited  scale.  The  list  is  not  long,  ai^ 
consists  of  the  yery  gay  and  striking 
ferias  of  Mairena  and  Italica,  masque- 
rading at  Christmas  time,  excellent 
theatres,  yery  well  attended,  and  the 
bull-fighti^  th^  most  celebrated  in  An- 
dalusia. There  is  some  society  in 
winter,  a  few  balls  and  animated  (sr- 
tuliaSf  where  the  stranger  meets  with  a 
cordial  welcome.  The  residence  of  the 
Duke  and  Duchesse  de  Montpensier  has 
contributed  to  enliyen  the  society,  re- 
taining seyeral  of  the  nobflity  in  their 
large  and  handsome  houses.  The 
princes^  who  are  yery  much  liked,  keep 
up  regal  state.  The  promenades  are 
not  yery  varied,  but  if  the  roads  were 
better,  there  would  be  some  pleasant 
drives  in  the  environa  The  casino  is 
good,  and  of  easy  access  to  foreigners. 
The  doctors,  no  longer  Chevaliers  de  la 
Lancette,  follow  and  apply  the  doc- 
trines dT  the  French  and  English 
schools,  and  have  renounced  all  ooti- 
neetion  with  Dr.  Sangrada  Living  is 
cheap ;  the  markets  well  supplied,  and 
from  the  proximity  to  Cadis  and  Gib- 
raltar, English  comforts,  book%  etc., 
are  easily  procured. 

To  all  matter-of-fiMst  touristy  who 
travel  to  take  the  height  of  other 
countries'  dvillsation  by  the  meridian 
of  their  own,  who  carry  with  them, 
wherever  they  go,  their  pr^udioes  and 
home,  just  as  the  snail  does  its  shell, 
Seville  must  indeed  appear  a  back- 
ward dfy,  with  no  end  of  desiderata } 


382 


sxvnxB. 


bat  to  thosa^  on  the  contniy,  wlio  (as 
Lady  Hester  Stanhope  aaid  to  Chateau- 
briand, '  L'Eorope  ennnie')  seek  noyel 
•oenet  amid  noyel  climet  and  peoplei^ 
this  is  a  new  world,  the  promised  land 
of  the  artist  and  inTalid,  where  to  fui 
€xuUnee  is  a  blessing  in  itself^  and 
where  the  aspect  of  earth  and  sky  glad- 
dens the  heart  and  quickens  the  blood. 
In  the  picture-galleiy  of  a  trareller's  life, 
the  tableau  of  Serille  will  be  hung  side 
by  side  with  that  of  Granada,  Naples^ 
Florence,  Constantinople,  and  other 
sunlit  scenes.  Vint  it,  therefore,  with 
a  mind  disposed  to  welcome  poetical 
impressions  and  day-dreams.  Walk 
through  its  suburbs,  amid  the  antique 
groups  of  its  gipsies,  and  the  types 
which  Murillo  loyed  to  reproduce. 
Examine  its  churches^  and  scorn  not 
the  piety  of  those  bygone  generations 
who  reaied  and  adorned  sud^  goigeous 
structures. 

Bight-aeeinff.  OAuftfto.— The  Ca- 
thedral, La  Caridad,  San  Isidore,  San 
liiguel,  Sta.  Maria  la  Blanca,  and  minor 
churches.  Public  Buiidingg,^Towa 
Hall  (Casss  Consistoriales),  Loiga  or 
Consulado  (the  Exchange),  Fabrica  de 
Tabaca,  Palace  of  San  Telmo,  Picturo- 
Qalleries,  Libraries,  etc  PrivaU  Edi- 
/eei.  — Oasa  de  Pilatoa,  Oasa  de  loe 
TaTerss,  etc.  Moariak  JBeK/Icm.  — The 
Alcasar,  the  Giraldar,  Moorish  houses^ 
etc  JUmum  Antiq%tiHe$.^ltahaL, 
BaAoa  de  Carmona,  walls,  etc  Prout- 
bits,  streets,  squares,  fountains. 

CH  €n»clfal*  is  buUt  on  the  site  of  a 

•  f/tmrt  i0  visit  tJU  CcMM/mA— Th«  houn 
to  visit  th«  cathedral  are  from  6  to  sa  A.M.,  and 
fifom  S.90  to  6  or  7  r.M.,  i  tm  m-mcUm,  The 
organ  nujr  be  heard  generally  between  9  to 
i^y>  A.M.,  and  3  to  5  p.m.  00  Sundays  and 
holy  days.  The  fine  old  music-books  lie  neg- 
lected. The  music  heard  is  by  RipfM,  Ar- 
chimhau,  Andrevi,  and  Eslava,  all  wwWifrawi. 
At  horas  de  coro  the  voices  heard  are  fine,  and 
the  music  plain  chant;  but  ona  sees  it  is  a 
duty  fulfilled  by  docing,  fat  canonigos,  and  not 
Dy  artists.  To  see  the  Jewels,  teeoco,  etc.,  apply 


Temple  to  Yenus  Salambo  which  waa 
couTerted  into  a  Christian  church-*-the 
Basilica  de  San  Yioente,  which  in  turn 
was  supplanted  by  a  splendid  mosque 
after  the  model  of  that  at  Cordora,  and 
burnt  down  by  the  Normans.  A  new 
one  was  b^gun  by  the  Emir  Yusuf  in 
1184,  ▲.a  The  belfiy  was  erected  by 
his  son  Yakub-Al-Manso6r.  Whether 
the  doister  del  Lsgarto  (crocodile  or 
lizard),  and  the  external  wall  (towards 
N.)  of  Patio  de  los  Kara^jos,  belong  to 
the  first  or  last  built  mosque  is  not 
easy  to  ascertain.  Some  think  they  are 
of  a  style  anterior  to  that  introduoed  by 
the  Ahnohades.  This  latter  mosque 
was  couTerted  by  St  Ferdinand  into  a 
cathedral ;  Gothic  chapels,  choirs,  etc, 
were  built  up.  The  ground-plan  of 
this  strange  and  probably  most  effectiye 
display  of  the  Moorish  and  Gothic 
styles  ¥ras  in  the  possession  of  Philip  II., 
and  burnt  in  the  great  fire  which  de* 
stroyed  the  Madrid  palace  Latin  and 
Arabic  schools  were  established  in  this 
cathedral,  and  here  Lebrga  held  his 
Escuela  de  Latinidad.  The  cathedral 
thus  lasted  till  1480.  The  old  edifice, 
often  repaired  and  altered,  threatening 
now  ruin,  was  pulled  down.  The 
chapter  assembled  in  July  8,  1401,  de- 
cided on  erecting  a  church  *so  large 
and  beautiful,'  said  they,  '  that  coming 
ages  may  proclaim  us  mad  to  hare  un- 
dertaken it'  The  expenses  were  de- 
frayed by  the  generous  Oapitulares 
themsdyei^  aided  not  a  little  by  the 
alms  wrung  from  the  people  by  means 
of  indulgences  published  eyerywhere  in 
the  kingdom.    Of  the  former  buildings 

10  Sacristan  Mayor,  at  the  Sacristia  Mayor. 
Two  dollars  will  open  erery  chapel  and  build- 
ii«.  To  see  the  Interior  of  Royal  Chapel  apply 
to  its  special  sexton.  There  b  an  endaostrndo 
monk  generally  to  be  found  in  or  about  the 
cathedral,  called  El  Fraile,  who  wiD  show  ona 
about  Ocenme,  like  so  many  ojraiorants,  Ba 
In  wait  for  their  prey  behind  every  pillar.  Foi 
the  Girald|i  Tower,  see  p.  41a 


8KyiLLB-*0ATUXDRAL. 


888 


noUiing  was  left  mts  the  Ginldi, 
Court  of  the  Onnges,  and  the  K.E. 
and  W.  portieoa,  and  the  grees  ontaide 
and  all  round,  which  were  pat  up  in 
1805  by  Arohhiahop  Hena,  with  a  Tiew 
to  do  away  with  the  booths  and  shopa 
that  blocked  the  edifice  on  all  sidei^  aa 
waa  then  ererywhere  the  eaae.  The 
high  chapel  waa  also  left^  and  waa 
polled  down  only  in  1482.  Who  waa 
the  architect  f  Some  oM^eeftMii  it  mnst 
hare  been  Alfooao  Hartines,  who  in 
1896  waa  Maeatro  Mayor  of  the  chapter : 
others  aay  it  ooold  hare  been  Pero 
Garcia,  who  filled  that  aame  oflBce  in 
1 421.  Jnan  Norman  directed  the  works 
146S-72;  Jnan  de  Hoc  or  Hoees,  1488  ; 
Alfonso  Rnis,  1508 ;  and  the  first  stone 
was  laid  in  1402,  and  the  last,  Decem- 
ber 1506,  the  Archbishops  then  being 
Alfonso  RodriguesandOonsalo  deRojas. 
The  roof  of  the  Crocero  and  portiona  of 
it  cmmbled  down  ahorUy  after,  and 
were  repaired  and  completed  1510  by 
the  celebrated  Jnan  Gil  de  HontaAon. 
.  Style — AtpetL — The  general  atyle 
of  the  edifice  is  the  Gothic  of  the  best 
period  in  Spain,  and  thongh  many  of 
its  parts  belong  to  different  styles,  jtX 
these  form  bnt  accessary  parts,  and  the 
main  body  inside  remaina  atrictly 
Gothic  The  Berival,  Plateresqne, 
Gneco-Roman  specimens  in  this  cathe- 
dnd  are  equally  models  wui  generii. 
Indeed,  all  the  arte,  and  each  in  tnm 
at  their  acme  of  strength,  seem  to  hare 
combined  ao  as  to  produce  their  finest 
effect  here.  The  Moorish  Giralda,  the 
Gothic  cathedral,  the  Gnoco-Roman 
exterior,  produce  variety  and  repose  to 
the  eye.  Inside,  its  numerous  paintings 
are  by  aome  of  the  greatest  painters ; 
the  stained  j^ass  among  the  finest  spe- 
cimens known ;  the  sculpture  beautiful ; 
the  jeweller'a  wotk  and  ailTersmith's 
nnriyalled  in  composition,  execution, 
and  intrinsic  yalue.  The  Oathedral  of 
Leon  charma  us  l^  the  chaste  elegance 


of  ita  airy  structure,  and  the  purity  <d 
ita  harmcmious  lines ;  the  faiiy-woriced 
dmborio  of  that  of  Burgos,  its  filigree 
spires  and  pomp  of  ornamentation,  are 
certainly  most  atriking ;  and  at  Toledo 
we  feel  humbled  and  cruahed  beneath 
the  mi^esty  and  wealth  displayed  ereiy- 
where ;  but  when  we  enter  the  cathe- 
dral of  Seville,  the  firat  impression  is 
that  of  aolemn  awe  and  reverence. 
There  is  a  sublimity  in  those  sombre 
masses  and  clusters  of  spires,  whose  pto- 
portions  and  detaik  are  aomewhat  lost 
and  concealed  in  the  mysterious  sha- 
dows which  pervade  the  whole—*  gran- 
deur which  kindlea  up  dormant  feeUng% 
quickens  the  sense,  and  makes  our  very 
heart  throb  within  us  when  we  stand  aa 
lost  among  the  lofty  navea  and  count- 
less gilt  altars.  Vast  proportions, 
unity  of  design  followed  in  the  main 
body  of  the  interior,  severity,  sobriety 
of  ornamentation,  and  that  aimpUdty 
unalloyed  by  monotony  which  stamps 
all  the  works  of  real  geniua — render 
tlUs  one  of  the  noblest  piles  ever  raiaed 
to  God  by  man,  and  preferred  by  many 
even  to  St  Peter'a  of  Rome. 

JSxteriar, — The  aquare  pile  which 
compriaea  the  Cathedra],  Sagrario^ 
Chapter  and  offices,  Giralda,  and  Court 
of  Orangea,  rises  on  a  platform,  with  a 
broad  paved  terrace  running  aU  round 
and  ascended  by  steps.  The  pillara 
belonged  to  Roman  temples  and  the 
previous  mosque.  The  form  of  the 
cathedral  itself  is  an  oblong  aquare, 
thus  preserving  the  primitive  basilioa 
form  of  the  mosque,  and  ita  area  mea- 
sures 808  ft.  (Spanish)  E.  to  W.,  and 
201  ft.  N.  to  a  not  including  the  apee 
of  the  Royal  Chapel,  the  Court  of 
Oranges,  Offices  and  Chapter,  which 
are  built  outside  to  the  S.  There  are 
nine  entrancea,  of  different  stylei^ 
period,  and  beauty.  The  principal 
facade  is  to  the  W.,  but  it  was  not  com- 
pleted until  1827,  and  is  very  inferiof 


384 


SEVILLB— CATHEDRAL. 


to  the  rest     The  most  remarkable 
portala  are :  Paerta  del  Lagarto  (N.), 
which  forma  part  of  the  cloisten  of  the 
earlier  cathedral,  ao  called  from  the 
crooodOe  which  ia  placed  here.    This 
was  tent  to  St.  Ferdinand  by  the  Sultan 
of  Egypt  amongst  other  enriooa  aniioala, 
many  of  which  died  on  the  way,  and 
were  staffed  and  placed  in  the  doistera.* 
In  the  W.  or  principal  facade  there 
are  three  door%  ogiyal  in  styles  and 
fine    specimens    of    the    beginning 
of  16th   centory.      That    of    centre 
was  left  nnfinished  tOl  1827,  and  then 
most  awkwardly  and  out  of  keeping. 
The  two  lateral  ones  are  richly  deco- 
rated with  open  work.    Obeerre  the 
excellent  terra-cotta  statnes  and  rdieyo 
figores  (15^)  by  Lope  Marin.     The 
door  called  de  San  Mignel,  to  right, 
has  a  relicTO  representing  the  Nativity 
of  Chiist,  and  on  the  sides  foil-sized 
statnei^  the  other  one  has  also  a  reliero 
representing  the  Baptism  of  St  John. 
In  the  E.  facade  are  two  fine  portals 
ornamented  with  a  profusion  of  statues 
of  angels,  patriarchs,  and  prophets,  and 
with  terra-cotta  relieyos  representing 
the  Adoration  of  Kings,  and  Entrance 
to  Jerusalem.    The  portols  correspond- 
ing to  the  extremities  of  the  transept  are 
unfinished.    In  the  N.  fa^e  there  are 


*  Onifchet  in  the  8th  and  gth  canturies  were 
often  little  dee  but  a  mu»eum  c£  natural  his- 
tory, works  of  vertn  and  curiositiee  (Anattaao 
BiUiotecario,  in  Leon  IV.,  chron.  of  S.  Fer- 
dinand, D.  Alfonso,  and  Sancho.  Seville  1567, 
ca|K  9i  foL  5.  Ahrar  Gut  de  Toledo,  *  Suna- 
rio  de  las  Cosas  Maravillbsas  del  Mundo,'  foL 
47,  Byole,  Soribay,  etc)  Here  are  besides  an 
elephant's  tooth  weighing  a^  arrobns,  and  the 
ftrst  asistente  of  Seville's  wand,  and  a  bit,  said 
to  be  that  of  Babieca,  the  Od's  steed.  When 
thb  cloister  was  whitewashed  in  1694  all  the 
notidaa  or  informatioo  that  could  be  obtained 
on  these  cnriosidades  were  placed  in  thecroco* 
dile's  body  and  within  the  tooth.  See  about  all 
this  and  the  older  cathedral.  Canon  Loaysa's 
'  If  enMrias  Sepulcrales  de  esu  Sta.  Igl^ias, 
etc. ;  MS.  at  the  Columbine  Library. 


two  portals ;  one,  the  kigest  of  the  two, 
leadh  to  the  chapel  of  £1  Ssgrario  or 
parish   church.    It   is   Oraoo-Roman 
in  styles  and  with  Corinthian  columns. 
The  P<nial  de  loa  Nara^jos,  and  also 
'  del  Perdon,'  lesds  to  Court <^  Oranges, 
where  there  were  formerly  many  more 
fountains.    The  high  horse-shoe  door  ii 
Moorish,  and  also  the  bronxe  doors. 
This  specimen  of  Mudejar  style  was 
built  toy  order  of  Alfonso  XL,  about 
840.    The  statues  represent  8S.  Peter 
and    Paul,    and   Annunciation ;    the 
basso-reliero  in  the  tympanum,  Mer- 
chanta  expelled  from  the  Temple,  pio- 
bably  allusiye  to  the  merchants  who 
used  to  assemble  before  its  erection 
within  the  court ;  the  external  wall  is 
part  of  the  early  mosque,  and  termi- 
nated with  the  Moori^  indented  or 
bearded  parapet    Most  of  the  portals 
are  prior  to  the  reign  of  Charles  7. 
The  belAy  is  modem  and  the  terra* 
cotta  statues  by  Miguel   Florentine 
(1619-22).     'The  Saviour  bearing  the 
Cross '  is  by  Luis  de  Yaigas,  but  re- 
painted.    This  entered,  the  Ssgrario 
lies  to  our  right,  in  front  the  cathedra^ 
and  on  the  left  the  graoeftil  Oiralda. 
The  fountain  in  the  middle  was  the 
original  one  used  by  the  Moslems  for 
their  ablutions.    The  two  sides  of  the 
court  only  remain.    To  the  left  is  a 
stone  pulpit  where  St  Francis  Ferrer 
has  preached.    In  the  comer  to  the 
left  is  a  ataircase  leading  to  the  £unous 
Columbine    Library    (see    Xidrorus). 
The  walls  outside  are  decorated  in  the 
QrKco-Roman  style.    Obeenre  the  ex- 
terior of  the  chapel  of  San  Fernando^ 
of  semi-circular  form,  plateresque^  as  is 
also  the  balustraded  outside  of  the  Con- 
taduria  (chapter  counting-house).    The 
projecting  sides  of  the  transept  and 
buttresses  along  the  lateral  wall%  the 
airy  flying  buttresses  springing  from 
one  nare  to  another  with  tiieir  open 
work,  the  richly -decorated  pinnacles^ 


8EVILLB — OATHIEDRAL. 


380 


Berrogaete  pillwets,  domes,  ete.,  gira 
great  Tariety,  morement,  and  betafy 
to  the  external  aspect  of  the  edifice. 

InUriar, — ^The  interior  bears  stamped 
in  its  stractore  a  harmony  and  onitj  of 
design  which  resolt  from  the  same 
style  prerailing  throughout,  and  the 
original  plan  being  followwl  ereiy- 
where.  It  is  divided  into  seven  naves, 
the  two  lateral  railed  off  for  chapels 
all  around,  and  nombering  87.  The 
central  nave  is  no  less  than  184  ft. 
high,  the  lateral  ones  96  ft  (Spanish), 
and  the  transept  dome  or  cimborio  158 
ft.  The  latter  is  69  ft  broad.  The 
lateral  aisles  are  89)  fL  broad.  The 
roof  is  divided  into  68  compartments, 
domes,  or  bovedas,  supported  by  86 
isolated  piers,  16  ft  diameter  ;  around 
them  are  grouped  shafts,  slender,  thin, 
and  light,  like  so  many  reeds  around 
an  oak-trunk,  and  terminating  in  slen- 
der palm  branches  blending  gently 
with  each  other  to  form  the  vaulting 
ribs.  Over  the  srohes  of  the  chapels, 
and  from  the  base  of  the  higher  domes, 
a  derestoiy  with  open-work  parapet 
runs  all  round  the  aisles.  98  windows, 
painted,  and  of  good  style,  and  divided 
by  pillarets,  interlaced  uchlets,  etc., 
light  up  the  whole.  The  pavement, 
made  of  chequered  black-and-white 
marble^  was  laid  in  1798;  and  cost  up- 
wards of  £80,000.  The  choir  sadly 
blocksupthecentre portion  of  theohuroh, 
thus  diminishing  the  general  effect 
There  was  once  a  talk  of  removing  it, 
and  making  a  large  street  just  opposite 
to  central  nave  whence  hi^  mass 
would  have  been  seen,  if  not  heard. 
There  is  the  greatest  simplicity  of 
detail  about  the  pillars,  shafts,  capi- 
tals, etc,  and  the  eye  can  freely  em- 
brace the  whole,  and  follow  every  linea- 
ment without  interruption,  and  wind 
round  eveiy  pillar.  The  groining  of 
the  vaulted  roof  between  the  high  altar 
and  the  choir  is  elaborately  ornamented 

2 


with   Gothic  traeeiy.      The  rest'  is 
plain. 

Ferd.  OohrnXnuf  MbnummL  —  On 
entering  by  the  W.  facade,  in  the  pave- 
ment, is  a  plain  marble  sLab^  bearing 
an  inscription  to  the  memory  of  Fer- 
nando, second  son  of  Christopher 
Columbus,  a  man  of  learning  and 
piety,  who  bequeathed  his  library.  La 
Colombina,  to  the  Chapter,  and  his 
ashes  to  this  cathedral  he  loved  so 
well.  (Ob.  1540  or  1541.)  As  he  was 
dyin^^  he  cast  dust  over  his  head,  and 
said  humbly  '  Memento  homo,  quia 
pulvis  es,  et  in  pulverem  reverteris.' 
Public  opinion,  that  weathercock,  turn- 
ing once  more  in  favour  of  Columbus, 
occasioned  a  funeral  equal  to  that  of  a 
king.  Obeerve  the  caravellas ;  those 
fragile  small  ships  with  which  tiie  new 
world  was  discovered,  or  rather  found 
anew,  and  of  which  there  are  curious 
models  at  the  Madrid  Naval  Museum. 
On  the  slab  is  the  well-known  motto, 
*  A  Castilla  y  k  LaoN,  mundo  nubvo 
oio  Colon.* 

Traaearo  or  Beredos. — Of  Doric  style 
and  precious  marbles.  The  picture 
over  the  altar  is  of  14th  century,  re- 
paired and  signed  by  Anton  Peres 
about  1548.  The  picture  of  San  Fer- 
nando is  by  Pacheco,  1688 ;  indifferent 
The  four  bassi-relievi  came  from  and 
were  executed  at  Genoa,  with  subjects 
from  scripture.  The  organs  are  diur- 
rigueresque  in  style ;  that  to  the  left 
was  made  in  1792  by  Jorge  Bosch ;  it 
contains  5800  pipes  and  110  stops  more 
than  that  of  Haarlem ;  its  sounds  are 
beautiful;  that  on  ri^^t  is  quite 
modem,  by  one  Yerdalonga,  and  has 
140  stops,  but  is  inferior  to  the  former. 
(Spanisjxls  are  not  a  musical  people, 
and  prefer  orchestras  in  their  churches^ 
and  Ikying  operas  and  polkas,  to  the 
more  appropriate  but  graver  and  jm»- 
Hv$  sound  of  the  deep-toned  saered 
0 


386 


SEVILLE — OATHSDRAL. 


muaio  of  organs.)  The  Respaldot  del 
Goto  are  worthy  of  aome  attentioii,  not 
80  much  for  their  elegant  platereaqne 
chapel  of  San  Agnstin,  as  for  the 
beantiftilly- executed  Yiigin  by  Hon- 
tafkes.  Tht  sweet  expression,  delicate 
girlish  hands,  the  admirable  modelling, 
all  render  it  the  masterpiece  of  that 
great  Sevillian  soolptor. 

C%otr.— Is  under  the  4th  and  6th 
boyeda  of  the  central  nare ;  enclosed 
on  aU  sides^  being  walled  in  on  all  ex- 
cept that  towards  the  altar,  from  which 
it  is  railed  in  by  a  superb  nja,  a 
magnificent  specimen  of  the  plateresque 
1618,  designed  by  Saneho  MuAoz.  The 
subjects  are  prophetic  kings,  and  Christ's 
temporal  generation.  The  choir  is  com- 
posed of  two  rows  of  stalli^  127  in  all, 
including  the  archbishop's ;  the  earring 
was  begun  by  Nufro  Sanches,  1476, 
continued  by  Dancart,  1479,  and 
finished  by  GuUlen,  1648.  The  style  is 
Gothic ;  Uie  frieies  are  filled  with  sub- 
jects from  the  Scriptures  and  fantastical 
animals  admirably  composed,  the  whole 
work  being  crowned  with  a  prolongated 
canopied  cornice^  decorated  with  turrets, 
statuettes  in  open-worked  niches,  lesTcs, 
fruit,  etc  The  prelate's  stall  is  still 
more  richly  ornamented,  and  a  few  on 
its  sides  also.  The  redinatorio  is  by 
Guillen,  and  is  not  Gothic.  It  is,  as  a 
French  author  says,  an  'immense  et 
minutieux  traTail  qui  confond  I'imagi- 
nation,  et  ne  pent  plus  se  comprendre 
de  nos  jours;'  and  we  may  be  allowed  to 
apply  to  them  Pugin's  criticism  on  those 
of  linooln  (though  these  are  of  the  late 
Decorated,  and  in  our  opinion  yery  in- 
ferior in  power  of  composition): — 'They 
are  executed  in  the  most  perfect  man- 
ner, not  only  as  regards  Tsriety  and 
beauty  of  omamentol  design,  but  in 
accuracy  of  workmanship,  which  is 
frequently  deficient  in  ancient  styles  of 
woodwork.'  The  lectern  is  a  master- 
fdeceof  Bartolora4  Morel,  1670,  thefinest 


Bevival  specimen  in  the  cathedral,  with 
his  Tenebrario^  after  d'Arfe's  Custodia. 
The  atril,  or  bookstand,  is  fullof  bassi- 
reliefi,  allegorical  and  female  figures, 
somewhat  out  of  keeping  with  the  place. 
The  lectern  rests  on  a  Doric  support, 
with  pillarets  and  bronxe  statues,  and 
the  summit  is  formed  by  a  miniature 
tabemade  or  templets^  with  statues  of 
Virgin  and  Christ  Oudfied.  The 
choral  books  are  fine  and  of  enormous 
sise.  The  illuminations  ate  by  Sanches, 
the  Ortas,  Padilla  and  Diego  del  Salto, 
1616  to  end  of  16th  century ;  some  also 
are  ascribed  to  Julio  del  Latlo. 

ffigh  OKapd  amd  AUar.^The  pulpits 
and  the  r^a  principal,  or  central  rail- 
ing are  by  the  Dominican  fHar  Fran* 
dsoo  de  Salamanca,  begun  in  1618, 
aided  by  his  pupil,  Antonio  de  Palen- 
cia,  who  finished  them  1683,  and  made 
the  steps  of  that  on  the  right  of  the  altar, 
decorating  them  with  scenes  from  the 
Apocalypse  and  the  statuettes  of  Etsu- 
geliBta.  The  lateral  rq'as  were  designed 
bySanchoMu&os,who  began  them  1618, 
and  were  finished  by  Di^  de  Tdrobo, 
1628 ;  they  rest  on  Gothic  antepechos 
balustraded.  They  are  all  admirably 
executed.  The  high  altar  is  ascended 
by  steps.  The  rdMo  mayo>r  is  Gothic, 
and  dirided  into  forty-four  compart- 
ments, filled  with  carvings  referring  to 
scenes  from  Scripture  and  life  <^  the 
Virgin.  It  is  the  masterpiece  of  Dan- 
cart,  designed  1482,  finished  in  1660. 
It  is  considered  one  of  the  largest  and 
most  beautiful  retablos  in  the  world. 
The  execution  does  not  readUy  corre- 
spond with  the  general  compositiou, 
but  the  efiect  is  reiy  grand.  It  ii 
all  <^  Alere$  pine-wood.  The  sUrer 
works,  atriles,  frontage,  etc,  are  by  Al- 
farc  Between  the  retablo  and  respaldos 
of  high  chapel  is  a  dark  space  called 
Saoristia  Alta.  The  artesonado  is 
fine  Obsenre  the  double  folding  Moor- 
ish door,  with  Gothic  inscription.    This 


8KV1LLB — CATHEDRAL. 


387 


door  is  said  to  luTe  belonged  to  the 
former  cathedral:  here  are  kept  the 
TabioB  AVcfnsimaa,  not  the  astronomical 
ones  (for  which  see  Aleaid  de  Eenara), 
but  a  reliqoary,  enriched  with  predoos 
stones  and  cameos,  brought  from  Con- 
stantinople to  Paris,  and  considerably 
decorated  by  Alfonso,  St  Ferdinand's 
son.  The  relieyi  are  in  the  transition 
style  of  Byzantine  to  Gothic.  The 
respaldc^  or  back  of  high  altar,  by 
Gonzalo  de  Rojas,  1522,  are  a  very  fine 
specimen  of  florid  Gothic,  and  abound 
in  statues  of  terra  ootta,  representing 
saints,  bishops,  martjrrs,  etc.,  under  iili- 
gree  open-worked  canopies.  It  is  one 
of  the  best  specimens  of  the  Gothic  of 
16th  century ;  the  statues  are  by  Mi* 
guel  Florentin,  Marin,  Pesquera,  and 
Cabrera^  1628-1575.  The  modelling 
is  good,  the  expression  natural,  and  the 
draperies  rendered  with  ease,  but  pre- 
serre  still  somewhat  of  the  rigid  stiff- 
ness and  lifeless  immobility  of  the 
Gothic  period.  See,  in  a  small  sa- 
cristy behind  the  altar,  some  curious 
pictures  by  Alejo  Femandes,  whose 
pupil  was  Castillo^  the  master  in  his 
turn  of  Murillo  and  Cano ;  they  are 
painted  somewhat  after  the  German 
school,  and  represent  the  Conception, 
Katiyity,  and  Purification. 

C^1M&.— The  Sagrario  is  the  largest 
in  the  cathedral,  and  its  parish  church. 
It  is  situated  to  left  on  entering  by  the 
principal  or  W.  facade.  It  was  begun 
1618,  by  Znmarraga,  and  finished  by 
Igle8iasinl662.  It  is  of  the  three  classic 
orders,  and  of  one  nare  with  chapels 
around ;  the  dome,  108  ft  high,  is  bold. 
Orer  the  chapels  are  colossal  statues  of 
theerangelistsand  doctors  of  the  church, 
by  Jos^  Arce,  1657,  indifferently  fine. 
The  former  retablo  was  of  a  most  in- 
ferior style,  and  the  present  one,  put  up 
in  1840,  was  brought  here  from  the 
Convent  of  San  Francisco.  It  repre- 
sents the  Yiigin  and  Dead  Christ,  with 


St  Magdalen,  St  John,  etc,  and  is  con- 
sidered a  masterpiece  of  Pedro  Roldan, 
and  Biyas ;  the  relieyo  at  the  base  is 
also  Tery  good,  and  represents  the  En- 
trance to  JeruaJenL  Under  this  church 
or  chapel  is  the  ranlt  where  the  arch- 
bidiops  of  SeTille  are  buried ;  continu- 
ing to  the  ri^t  of  former  chapel,  we 
must  pause  before  that  of  Lo§  Jaeamsi, 
The  j^cture  by  Boelas  is  fine,  and  the 
colouring  Venetian,  but  it  has  been 
sadly  spoilt  by  Molina ;  it  represents 
Our  Lady  of  Anguish  ( Augustia). 

Cfap,  qf  La  VisUacUm, -- K  retablo 
painted  by  Pedro  Marraolijo  de  Vil- 
legas,  17^  centuiy.  The  St  Gerome 
oyer  the  altar  is  a  fine  statue  by  Ger. 
Hernandez. 

(Jap,  del  Connulo. — ^A  Holy  Family, 
considered  as  the  masterpiece  of  Tobar, 
the  best  pupil  and  imitator  of  Murilld. 
Pass  the  grand  door,  and  obsenre^  oyer 
the  small  altar  del  Angel  de  la  Guarda, 
the  picture  by  Murillo  of  the  Guardian 
Angel  holding  a  Child ;  it  is  one  of  the 
sunniest  and  freshest  yisions  of  that 
great  and  pious'  painter ;  belonged,  till 
1814,  to  the  Capudn  Conyent 

C.  <M  JV<M»'ffii0fito.  — The  Natiri^  and 
the  Four  Eyangellsts  are  by  Luis  de 
Vargas,  in  the  style  of  his  master, 
Pierino  del  Vago ;  Uie  Virgin  Tery  fine, 
the  composition  excellent,  and  tiie  co- 
louring and  drawing  most  Italian-like ; 
the  Virgin  and  Child  and  St  Ann  are 
ascribed  to  Morales.  ' 

Oa,  cf  San  Laurdamo.^-A  large  pic- 
ture of  the  tutelar,  represented  walldng 
without  his  head,  a  not  uncommon 
miracle  with  Spanish  saints,  and,  like 
Dante*s  Bertrand  del  Bomio^  'un  busto 
senza  capo  andar'  (/Vemo,  28,  40). 
The  first  stone  of  the  present  cathedral 
was  laid  in  the  comer  of  this  chapel, 
cloee  to  Torre  de  San  MigueL 

Oa»  de  SkL  Ana, — Formerly  de  San 
Bartolom4.  A  curious  retablo  of  1404, 
representing  San  Bartolom4  in  centre ; 


388 


SSVILLB — OATHKDRAL. 


aboTfl^  a  reliero  CoranAtion  of  the  Vir- 
gin, and  in  the  lateral  compartment! 
Apostles  and  Holy  Fathers ;  the  back- 
groonds  and  draperies  are  gilt;  the 
dresses  and  style  are  interesting.  Pass- 
ing now  by  the  door  leading  to  the 
ardtires  and  Mayordomia  (No.  8); 
(the  arehires,  concealed  dnring  the 
French  inTasion,  escaped  wondeifnlly, 
and  are  most  complete)  we  shall  risit 

Cap.  d§  San  Jm^.— A  NatiTity,  by 
Antolinez ;  a  marriage  of  the  Virgin, 
by  Yald^  Leal;  a  dnmsy,  classical 
ratable^  by  one  Arnel,  'the  Massacre  of 
Innocents ;'  the  author,  an  Italian,  out- 
herods  Herod. 

Cap,  SamHermmugUdo, — Founded  by 
Oardinal  Cerrantes,  whose  fine  statue 
belongs  to  the  Gothic  style  of  16th 
centuiy ;  the  draperies  are  finely  mo- 
delled, by  Hercadante  of  Brittany, 
master  of  Kufro  Saiichos.  The  tnto- 
lar*s  statue  is  by  Montaftos.  Here  lies 
the  Admiral  of  Castille,  Juan  Mathe 
de  Luna,  who,  says  the  epitaph,  '  Muy 
bien  sirrio  k  los  Reyes,  ob.  1887/ 

Cap,  de  la  Antigua.— In  its  small  sa^ 
eristia  are  some  pictures  by  Antolines, 
Morales,  Znrbaran,  Greco^  and  flower- 
pieces  by  Arellana  The  image  of  the 
Virgin  is  exceedingly  sndent,  and  be- 
longed to  the  former  cathedral  It  is 
Byiantine  in  style ;  the  marble  sltar  is 
dassical,  with  good  statues  by  Comejo» 
Obserre  the  magnificent  dnquecento 
tomb  of  £1  Gran  Cardenal,  Di^  Hnr- 
tado  de  Mendosa,  ob.  1502.  It  was 
erected  by  his  brother,  Conde  de  Ten- 
dUU,  and  made,  1604-1609,  by  Miguel 
Florentin,  who  carred  the  statues  of 
at  Peter  snd  St  Paul  at  the  sides  of 
Puerta  dd  Pardon,  or  Court  of  Oranges. 
The  basd-relieri,  illustrating  soenes 
from  life  of  the  Virgin,  and  the  nx 
statues  of  saints,  are  fine. 

Th$  Tran$eplt  Dome,  or  Gimborio. — 
The  fonner  dome  fell  in  the  night  of 
Dec  28,  1611.    Great  and  real  was  the 


consternation  fdt  by  all  the  artist-world 
of  that  cathedralising  period ;  and  each 
town  sent  its  architect  to  repair  the  mis- 
fortune. Jaen  sent  Pedro  Lopes  ;  To- 
ledo^ Enrique  de  E^  ;  Vitoria,  Juan 
de  Alara ;  but  that  of  Salamanca,  Juan 
Gil  de  HontaAon,  had  the  glory  of  erect- 
ing the  actual  transept  snd  dome,  and 
thus  achiering  the  completion  of  the 
cathedral  in  1619.  This  dome  rises  191 
ft,  and  rests  on  four  massive  pillars ;  it 
is  reiy  bold  and  airy,  and  of  grand 
effect  In  psssing  the  Puerta  de  la 
Lonja,  to  the  left  of  it  is  the  altar  and 
small  chapd  of  La  Genersdon,  founded 
1684  by  the  Medinas,  whose  portndts 
by  Vargas  are  seen  on  the  altar ;  but 
the  prindpal  picture  is  the  Viigin  and 
Child,  with  Adam  and  Etc  adoring,  and 
several  Patriarchs.  It  is  commonly 
called  '  £1  cuadro  de  la  Gamba,'  from 
the  M^'  of  Adam,  of  which  Mateo 
Peres  do  Aledo,  who  had  then  Just 
finished  his  fr-esoo  picture  of  San  (>is- 
tobal,  which  is  placed  oppodte^  ex- 
claimed, '  Pin  vale  la  tua  gamba  die  il 
mio  Santo  Cristofora'  Pdomino^  who 
tells  or  invents  this  anecdote,  could  not 
have  been  ignorant  that  Luis  de  Vargas 
died  fifteen  years  before  Aledo  painted 
his  St  Christopher,  which  he  did  in 
1684  ;  the  latter  is  certainly  inferior  in 
everything  save  size  ;  it  is  82  ft  high, 
the  subject  is  invariably  found  in  every 
large  church  in  Spain,  was  formerly 
sculptured,  as,  till  last  century,  in  Notre 
Dame,  in  Paris,  snd  the  Seville  old 
cathedral.  The  chapel  to  the  right  of 
this  door  is  indifferent;  pictures  by 
Pedro  Femandei  de  la  Guadalupe ;  ob- 
serve his  Descent,  1627.  Close  by  is 
the  Saerittia  de  loe  Oalieee,  designed  by 
Diego  de  Riafio^  1630,  but  finidied  in 
1861.  See  the  fine  Christ,  sculptured 
by  Montafies ;  much  admired  by  the 
Sevillanoa.  A  very  fine  portrait  of 
Contrerss,  by  L  de  Vargas,  1641 ;  the 
colouring  ii  beautiful    Admire  also  the 


8SVILLB— OATHEDBALk 


389 


portrait  of  Lft  Monja  Dorotea,  hy  Ma- 
rillo,  painted  in  1674 ;  a  St  Peter,  hy 
Herrers  el  Yiijo,  very  fine,  and  a  Sa- 
Tionr,  hy  Laa  Boelaa.  The  picture  of 
Staa.  Jnata  j  Rofina,  patroneaaea  of  Se- 
Tille,  ii  hy  Goya,  and  are  portraita  of 
Madrilenian  beantiea,  more  of  the  clasa 
'  comma  il  en  fant,'  than  '  oomme  il 
laut. '  The  atyle  of  the  room  ia  errone- 
oualy  called  puro  gotico  by  Cean  Ber- 
mndez,  who  knew  little  of  this  atyle, 
which,  in  hia  time,  waa  not  in  practice. 
It  ia  between  the  Qothio  and  plater- 
eaqne ;  the  archea  dronlar,  eta 

Oap,  de  Im  Dolores,  — ^The  image  of 
Viigin  ia  by  Pedro  de  Mena.  The  pic- 
torea  indifferent,  and  of  the  SerilUan 
and  Rabena  achooL 

Cfap,  de  Sam  Andris.—TomhB  of  the 
'fonnden,  the  Connta  of  Cifiientea,  be- 
ginning of  16th  century ;  a  curioua 
picture,  the  Adoration  of  the  Magi,  by 
Alijo  Fernandez. 

AnUtakL  ^  the  SacritHa  Mayor,-^ 
Obaenre  the  roo(  and  Cardinal  Yirtuea 
innichea 

Sacriatia  Mayer, — Deeigned  by  Ri- 
afto,  and  executed  by  Martin  deGainza; 
finished  1561.  It  ia  a  maaterpiece  of 
Bia&oX  which  death  did  not  allow  him 
to  aee  completed ;  and  a  magnificent 
apedmen  of  the  platereaque,  thou^  in 
many  detaila  the  centaurs,  lapiths,  etc , 
are  out  of  keepiug.  ItaahapeiaaGreek 
croaa ;  it  ia  70  it  long,  by  40  ft  wide, 
and  120  (t  Ugh.  The  ai«h  of  the  door 
is  full  of  curioua  relicFo  medalliona  re- 
preaenting  diahea  of  meat  and  fruit 
The  armarioa,  or  preaaea  where  the 
dreaaea  of  the  clergy  are  kept,  are  mo- 
dem. Thoae  which  contain  the  piste, 
reliquaries,  etc,  were  canred  by  Pedro 
Duque  Comcjo  (1677-1767).  Notice 
eapedally  the  celebrated  'euatodia,'  by 
Arfe,  which  is  considered  to  be  hia 
maaterpiece.  It  is  12  atagea  hi^  and 
formed  by  four  cuerpoa  reeting  on  96 
baantjfhllv  ornamented  pillaretai    In 


the  centre  the  former  statuette^  rei««- 
aenting  Faith,  waa  aubatituted  in  1668 
by  the  preaent  one  of  our  Lady  of  La< 
Concepdon.    The  allegorical  atatuettea 
— ^the  children,  Tine-work,  relieroa  re« 
preaentiug  acenea  from  the  Old  and  New 
Teetament— all  ia  beautiful  Theatatue 
of  Faith  which  crowns  the  summit,  and 
12  angels^  etc,  were  put  up  in  1668  by 
Juan  de  S^giua,  it  weigha  48  arrobaa. 
The  inscription  ia  by  Pacheoo.    Ask  for 
the  Tenebrario^  a  masterpieoe  of  Bar- 
tohmk4  Morel,  finished  in  1662  for  1060 
ducata — a  then  enonnona  sum ;  the  foot 
and  16  upper  atatuettea  are  not  by  him, 
but  after  hia  deaigna.    It  is  26  ft  Ugh. 
This  moat  ezquiaite  piece  of  woricman* 
ahip  is  put  up  during  Eaater  week  in 
the  $ntn4ot'Ccroit  when  .the  Miserere 
is  sung;  and  aooordiug  to  what  is  ob- 
aerred  in  ereiy  church,  the  18  candlea 
which  light  it  are  put  out  one  after  an- 
other in  remembrance  of  the  Apostles, 
who  in  turn  deaerted  the  Maater.    The 
picture  of  San  Leandro  and  San  laidoro 
are  by  Murillo.    They  are  in  hia  early 
atyle,  /no.    The  heads  are  fine^  and 
likeneaaea — ^the  former  of  Henera,  a 
canon  ;  and  the  latter  of  J.  Lopei  Tala- 
ran.  The  colouring  wmnta  warmth,  and 
we  are  here  atill  far  finom  the  subsequent 
vaporomk    Orer  the  altar  is  a  aombre, 
mysterious,  and  awe-striking  picture  oi 
the  Descent  from  the  G^oaa.    It  ia  by 
Pedro  Campana,  1602,  a  pupil,  aome 
aay,  of  M.  Angela     Palomino^  iii  p. 
860  ;  Bermudei,  Dioo.  1,  p.  201 ;  and 
Pacheco,  p.  241,  afBirm  of  Raphael 
Murillo  liked  i^  and  uaed  to  stand  for 
hours  before  it,  and  onoe  replied  to  acme 
one  aaking  what  he  waa  doing  : '  I  am 
waiting  till  thoae  holy  men  have  taken 
our  Lend  down  ;'  and  Pacheco  aaaurea 
ua,  '  he  waa  afraid  to  remain  after  da^ 
alone  with  thia  picture ;'  and  before  it, 
Murillo  deaired  to  be  buried.   Therelioa 
kept  here  are  of  very  great  ralue  md 
gtmrii,    A  fine  and  xi^y-inUid 


300 


wItlilSOOdkiiiondi.  A  findjT-diUeUed 
croM  of  IMO,  by  FnadMO  McrioD ;  bits 
of  tb4  UuB  etcm,  hoom,  etc,  wKwtnl 
ftMOoChie  eb«lieet,  tad  the  keji  de- 
Ur«rtd  to  St  FcrdinMid  wfaea  be  took 
Serflle ;  titere  ie  one  which  wm  ffwm. 
bj  the  Jew%  with  the  Hebrew  inierip- 
tioa,  'The  King  of  Kings  will  open,  the 
King  of  ^  the  eerth  will  enter.'  The 
other  ononis  Moorish,  end  beers  the  fol- 
lowing;— 'Mmj  AlUh  render  etornel 
the  dominion  of  IsUm  In  this  dtj  I'  In 
the  next  smell  room,  called  'el  tesoro^' 
ere  kept  serenl  fine  plete  end  gold- 
smiths' works,  end  a  well-designed  em- 
bossed beein,  giren  by  Louis  Philippe, 
and  containing  his  and  his  familjr'e  por- 
traits. This,  together  with  a  paltry 
portrait  of  QolumbtM,  and  a  oollection 
of  prints,  constitated  the  compensation 
giren  bj  him  to  the  chepter  for  the 
beautiful  Kooe  Homo  by  Mnrillo,  which 
belonged  to  the  cathedral,  which  Baron 
Taylor  obtained  for  him  through  the 
old  Dean  Oepero^  and  which  ia  sUll  the 
property  of  the  Orleane  famfly.  See 
alio  the  splendid  dresses  of  the  deigy, 
unequalled  in  any  other  country  and 
age ;  the  dalmatioasandtemoe  aremoet 
superbly  embroidered.  The  Alfonsine 
tablets  studded  with  relics  are  also  kept 
hef%  and  a  oroes  nuwle  from  a  nugget  of 
the  first  gold  brought  by  Columbus,  and 
oflTered  by  him.  We  shall  now  proceed  to 

Cbpato  d$  UaH$eal,  founded  by  the 
muy  magniflooe  SeAores  of  that  name. 
The  retabloi  at  the  sides  of  which  they 
are  portrajred,  is  a  fine  specimen  ^ 
Oampafta's  talent  The  Apoetles,  Dis- 
pute with  the  Doctor^  etc.,  are  aU  fine. 
It  is  especially  as  a  portrait-painter  that 
he  was  highly  Talued.  His  Purificedon 
is  fine.  The  JnU^Oabikh  has  little  to 
eee ;  it  is  gaudy  and  heaiily  deeorated. 
The  insoriptione  of  medaUiona  are  by 
Franeieoo  Paoheoo. 

AOn  Qyitii tor.  -^Chapter ^ hones ; 
deB%aed  l»y  Rkfto^  IMO ;  another  meg- 


nifieent  specimen  of  the  plateTCM|«e, 
meaeoree  60  It  kng  by  54  It  wide^  and 
a  a  (Spanish)  hi^  ICaitin  Geina 
earned  on  the  works  till  aboot  1568. 
The  beantafnl  arteeonado  eeilin^  pave- 
maul^  baesi-relieTi  mfdallinns  made  a# 
Glenoa,  and  repreeenting  eoenee  from 
the  Scripture^  the  profosion  of  dell- 
cately-esrred  statuette^  etc,  are  to  be 
espedaUy  notioed.  QaTede  and  other 
aathors  call  the  style  Qraoo-Roman — 
considfTJng  it  ae  the  finest  and  purest 
specimen  in  Spain ;  bat  the  details,  or- 
namentation,  and  other  portions  belong 
to  the  plateresque.  Pietum, — Ooncep- 
tion,  by  MnriUo,  beautifully  painted ; 
the  Yirgin'e  expression  is  most  exqui- 
site^ the  colouring  perfect ;  a  Christ 
Bound,  and  a  Virgin  and  Child  ae- 
cribed  to  him.  l^e  eight  orals  be- 
tween the  windows  are  also  by  him, 
and  represent  half-length  picturee  <k 
the  Patron  Sahite  of  ScTille.  The 
eight  allegorical  pictures  repreeenting 
women  and  children  with  chiaroecuro 
figures  are  by  Cespedes,  retouched  by 
MuriUo.  The  marble  medallione  are 
Qenoese,  and  repreeent  the  Yirtuee, 
In  the  Ckmtaduria  Mayor  is  a  St  Fer- 
dinand, by  Murillo  ;  and  by  Cespedea, 
a  sacrifice  of  Abraham,  and  a  Santae 
Rufina  and  Justa. 

The  first  chapel  on  the  right  is  '  La 
Concepcion  Qrande.*  Here  ie  a  crucifix 
aeoribed  to  Alfonso  Oano,  and  a  fow 
indifferent  pictures  treating  of  the 
remoTal,  translation,  of  the  adiea  of  the 
Conquistadores  of  Seyille. 

CofiUa  BmoJL^  the  Bioyol  Ckapd^  eo 
called  becanse  it  was  built  to  oontain 
the  bodice  of  royal  personegee.  It  was 
built  by  Martin  Qainia  at  the  rsquest 
of  Gharies  V.,  who  wished  the  Ibnner 
high  ch^iel,  already  pulled  down,  to 
haTe  a  snbatitnteL  Th%  plane  were 
reTised  by  Alfoaeo  de  OoTamibias ;  the 
plane  of  l|gas  and  Alara  haTing  been 
astdsL    The  works  begun  lUl,  and 


SEVILLE— OATUKDBALk 


391 


finished  1676,  bjr  Feman  Roil,  who 
iQCoeeded  Qainsa  st  his  dsath.  The 
style  of  it  is  the  plateresqae  U  its  latest 
period  It  is  oonsidered  a  rerj  fine 
specimen  of  this  styles  bat  is  somewhat 
OTerioaded  with  details  sad  ornamenta- 
tion. It  measores  81  ft  lon^  69  ft. 
wide,  180  ft  high.  The  nja  is  indif- 
ferent and  modern,  a  gift  of  Charles  IIL 
Orer  it  ia  the  equestrian  statoe  of  St 
Ferdinand  between  two  Moorish  kings 
(perhaps  rather  a  Jew  and  a  Moor) 
offering  him  the  keys  of  Serille.  Over 
the  friese  itself  are  twelre  foll-sixed 
statnes  designed  by  Pedro  de  OampalU, 
who  drew  tibem  on  the  wall  with  a  bit 
.of  coal  for  one  docat  each,  and  executed 
by  Lorenxo  del  Yao  and  CSampos,  in 
1668.  They  represent  Apostles,  Eran- 
gelists,  and  kings  of  the  Old  Testa- 
ment The  chapel  is  Tery  spadons ;  at 
the  sides  are  deeply-recessed  aloores 
containing  the  tombs  of  D.  Beatrix, 
wife  of  St  Ferdinand,  Alfonso  the 
Leamed,  and  Dofta  Maria  de  Padilla, 
the  celebrated  mistress  of  Pedro  el 
Cmel;  the  medallions  are  of  Oard 
Peres,  and  D.  Peres  de  Yaigas ;  the 
retaUoi  1647,  is  Tery  indifferent  In 
the  middle  of  the  chapel  rises  a  donble 
altar— one  higher  than  the  other.  The 
image  is  the  celebrated  one  of  'Our 
Lady  of  Kings,'  a  present  from  St 
Lonis  of  France  to  St  Ferdinand.  In 
the  arabesques  of  the  roof  are  figures 
of  all  the  kings  of  Spain ;  the  second  or 
lower  part  of  the  altar  ia  formed  by  the 
silver  and  glased  urn,  made  in  1789, 
which  oontiins  the  almost  perfect  body 
of  the  saint  The  body  is  displayed 
on  May  80,  August  23;  and  Norember 
28,  when  the  military  mass  and  other 
ceremonies  are  most  striking  to  wit- 
ness. The  original  sepulchre  on  which 
the  nma  is  placed  bears  inscriptions  in 
Latin,  Hebrew,  and  Arabic,  which  were 
composed  by  the  hero's  leamed  son, 
Alfonso  el  Sabio.    The  king  is  dressed 


in  his  royal  robes,  with  the  crown  on 
his  head;  his  hands  are  crossed  oTer  his 
chest  On  the  ri^^t  is  the  Baston  de 
Mando,  the  staff  or  sceptre ;  on  the 
left  iB  the  sword,  which  is  short,  plain, 
and  light  The  precious  stones  which 
originally  enriched  the  handle  were 
carried  away  by  king  Don  Pedro^*who 
did  so^  hesdd,  lest  they  might  be  taken 
away  by  otherSb  This  <^pel  has  a 
spedal  clergy  and  sacristias. 

Otp.  cb  A  iVdfV.— On  right  of  latter ; 
the  rqa  is  the  elegant  w<«k  of  the  lay 
Franciscan  Joo^  Cordera  The  nine 
Zurbarans  cannot  be  seen  tp  any  ad- 
rantage  owing  to  the  darkness  of  this 
comer  of  the  cathedral  FIts  of  them 
represent  scenes  from  St  Peter's  life. 
Obserre  the  Apostle  healing  the  sick ; 
the  one  representing  him  receiring  the 
keys  from  our  SaTiour,  and  the  Apostle 
in  the  papal  robes,  are  the  best 

Gap,  de  N.  S,  de  BeUtn.-^An  ex- 
quisite lecture  of  Virgin  and  Child,  by 
A.  Oano. 

C  de  S<m  Framateo.—Thit  Sabt 
in  Glory,  by  Herrera  el  Moso.  The 
colouring  admirable ;  the  composition 
Tery  good.  It  is  perhaps  this  master's 
mssterpiece. 

C.  de  Santiago, — St  James  conquer- 
ing the  Moor%  a  fine  picture  by  Las 
Roelas;  Tery  rich  colouring;  and  a 
St.  Loienso^  by  Vald^  Leal  In  0»p. 
del  PUtpr  was  formerly  the  Eoce  Homb^ 
remoTcd  first  to  Sacristia  de  las  Calioes 
in  1886,  and  in  1880  giTen  to  Louis 
Philippe  by  the  chapter. 

DelBaptidiHiO^tftDelaPaa^^nttt 
hangs  the  picture  of  St  Anthony  of 
Padua,  one  of  Murillo's  grandest  pic- 
turesi  The  In£uit  Jesus  to  his  saint's 
prayers  acceding,  descends,  amid  che- 
rabs  and  flowers  and  sunbeams,  into 
his  aims  ecstatically  extended  towards 
him.  The  oouTent  is  seen  in  the  dis- 
tance; The  darkness  of  the  chapel 
adds  to  the  effect  of  the  lights  OTsr  ths 


392 


SSVILLB. 


picture^  whiob  belongs  to  the  bett 
period  of  Mnrillo's,  the  vaporoeo,  dates 
1666,  aod  for  which  he  was  paid  the 
sum  of  10,000r.  (about  £100).  It 
was  of  this  and  the  St  Leander  and 
Isidoro  (in  the  Sacristy  de  los  Calioes) 
that  Antonio  Castillo,  the  nephew  of 
Morillo's  master  Juan,  said,  <  It  is  all 
oyer  with  Csstillo ;  is  it  possible  that 
Morillo,  that  senrile  imitator  of  mj 
mncle^  can  be  the  author  of  all  this 
grace  and  beantj  of  coburingf  It  is 
asserted  b j  some  that  the  picture  was 
laMado  or  daubed  oyer  in  1833  by 
on^  Gutierrez.  Captain  Widdrington, 
'Spain  in  1848,'  L  p.  246,  maintains 
it  is  uninjured.  The  composition  is 
simple,  but  not  superior  to  the  St 
Felix  de  Cantalida  (Picture^allery, 
SeWUe). 

SUUfud  fFiiidimit.-— Ninety-three  in 
number.  They  are  among  the  finest  in 
Spain ;  were  begun  by  Micer,  Cristobal, 
Alencon  or  L'Allemand,  1604,  and 
finished  1669  by  sereral  other  great 
'Tidrieros.'  The  Assumption  of  the 
Yiigin,  fiudng  the  transept  and  right 
of  high  altar,  was  begun  in  1638  by 
Amao  de  Yergars,  and  completed  1667 
by  Amao  of  Flandersi  It  is  very 
beautifully  painted — the  hues  most 
rich.  The  Descent  of  the  Holy  Ghost, 
on  the  side  of  the  door  of  Court  of 
Oranges,  is  by  Amao  de  Flanders.  By 
him  are  also  Sta.  Maria  dose  to  the 
door  of  St  Michael ;  the  Apostles  in 
transept^  left  of  high  altar ;  the  four 
bishops  on  same  side ;  the  circular 
window  of  La  Ascension.  Obsenre 
espedally  his  Entry  into  Jerusalem, 
Lasarus,  Jesus  Washing  the  Feet  of 
His  Disdples,  The  Lord's  Supper,  etc. 
The  Resurrection  in  Qsp.  de  los  Don- 
celles  is  by  Kari  of  Bru^  1668.  The 
Conrersion  of  St  Paul,  1660,  in  Cap. 
de  Santiago  (obserre  its  glorious  reds 
and  blues) ;  the  rest  are  by  Vicente 
Menandro^  who  painted  till  1669. 


La  Oaridad.— This  church  lies  a  \ 
little  out  of  the  way,  and  is  dcToid  in 
itself  of  interest,  but  it  is,  though  small,  '^ 
a  valuable  museum  of  Murillos,  and  \ 
must  not  be  omitted  on  that  account 
Under  the  name  two  edifices  exist  on 
the  same  area— the  church  and  a  laige 
and  well-organised  hospital  It  was 
founded  by  D.  Miguel  de  MaiUra,  a 
young  nobleman  c^  SeriUe,  of  great 
wealth,  and  as  celebrated  for  his  reck- 
less profligacy  and  nightly  adventures 
and  duds,  as  for  his  generodty,  courage, 
and  patronage  of  artists.  To  his  inti- 
mate frienddiip  with  MuriUo  we  owe 
the  beautiful  pictures  we  shall  speak  of. 
The  repentant  Don  Miguel,  a  true  type 
of  the  troe  Don  Juan,  who  lived  middle 
of  17th  oentuiy,  rebuUt  the  church  1661, 
which,  built  up  in  1698,  under  the  ad* 
▼ocacy  of  St  George,  belonged  to  a 
hermandad  or  brotherhood,  whose  self- 
impoeed  duties  were  to  give  religious 
consolation  to  those  about  to  die  on  tlie 
scafibld,  and  to  bury  their  bodies ;  and 
calling  it  De  la  Caridad,  the  founder 
converted  it,  moreover,  into  a  pauper- 
house  and  a  refuge  for  the  sged.  The 
hospital  and  church  were  rebuilt  in  the 
churrigueresque  style  by  Pereda.  Here 
the  reformed  Don  Juan  retired  and 
died,  a  periect  example  of  piety,  humi- 
lity, and  abnegation.  (His  life  has 
been  recently  published  by  M.  de  La- 
tour,  the  Dukt  de  Montpensier's  former 
tutor  and  present  intendant  See, 
moreover,  'Yida  y  Muerte  de  Don 
Manud  de  MaiUra,'  etc,  by  Juan  de 
Cardenas,  4to^  Seville.)  There  are  two 
noble  patios  with  fountains  and  plants. 
The  sick  and  aged,  and  other  sort  of 
incurables,  are  most  providently  tsken 
care  ot  The  establishment  is  support- 
ed by  voluntary  contributions,  and 
young  men,  gentlemen  of  SeviUs^  at- 
tend on  them  each  in  turn.* 

*  To  visit  this  establishmenl,  fif^  ac  door 
o£  botpiuL    In  the  aichivc*  there  is  a  petitioa 


'BEVILLBi 


393 


Tke  Ckurdi  is  rtarj  iman,  narrow, 
and  dark.  The  retablo  mayor  is  bj 
Simon  Pinedai  and  r«pr«aiBnt8  the  Burial 
ofChriat  That  in  the  oentre»  the  San 
Jorge  and  San  Roqae,  is  the  master- 
piece of  Pedro  Roldan.  The  painting 
waa  hy  Yald^  LeaL  Orer  the  altar  to 
right  of  former  is  an  In£uit  SaTionr, 
hj  Morillo^  on  panel,  aaid  to  be  aome- 
what  injured.  Obeenre  on  the  laat  altar 
on  left  a  fine  '  Eoce  Homo,'  hy  A.  Oana 
The  figorea  of  the  pulpit  are  bj  Roldan, 
the  cainred  stepa  by  Pineda.  Opposite^ 
and  aa  a  pendant  to  it,  if  a  St  John 
the  Baptist,  by  MorilkH  beautifally 
colonred,  warm,  and  Italian-like  in 
tints.  Orer  another  altar  li  a  magnifi- 
cently-painted San  Joan  de  Dioa  by 
same.  The  saint  ia  assisted  by  an  angel 
in  carrying  a  sick  man. 

'  One  otiher  picture  here,  San  Jnan  de 
Dice  with  an  angel,  is,  in  composition 
and  colour,  one  of  the  fmest  examples 
of  Hnrillo.'  (*Life  of  Wilkie,*  ii.) 
The  chiaroeonro  is  admirably  treated ; 
the  attituder  simple,  bat  weU  selected. 
The  drapery  behind  the  angel  ia  a  per- 
fect specimen  of  the  inimitable  (in  the 
Spanish  schools)  manner  of  MoriUo  in 
the  treatment  of  his  white  linen.  In 
the  distance  is  a  diminntiTe  gronp, 
dreamily  painted  in  a  hazy  manner, 
and  representing  the  same  saint  waah- 
ing  a  pauper's  feet,  bat  the  light  is  not 
good  enough  to  distingnish  this  second 
portion.  There  ii  something  Bem- 
brandt-like  about  this  picture  in  the 
distribution  of  lights  and  shades,  the 
Tery  rich  browns,  etc 

Hung  rather  too  high  up^  and  on  the 
left  of  Uie  high  altar,  obeure  Murillo's 
Miracle  of  the  Loares  and  Fishes.  In 
the  distant  background  the  6000  are 
grouped  amid  a  wild  landscape  as  Span- 
ish as  the  sky  itself^  and  one  of  the  few 
examples  of  Murillo's  Mvoir/airt  for 


of  MariOo,  Iwtttinf  to  bo 
iatotlw 


■dmiftod  pM  «B  bcr> 


landscapei^  thoo^  as  usual  in  the 
Spanish  sdiool,  they  were  considered  as 
a  mere  accessory.  In  the  foreground, 
on  one  side,  St.  Peter  speaking  to  a  boy 
with  a  basket  of  fishes,  a  true  fuiio  ds 
MwriUo,  whilst  St  Andrew  ia  gifing 
our  SaTiour  the  loayea  which  He  blesses. 
Christ  ii  seated ;  the  figure  ii  calm  and 
dignified,  but  not  expressiTe.  The 
grouping  is  well  undentood,  and  the 
coburing  fine,  but  the  general  execution 
is  hasty  and  somewhat  sketchy.  The 
price  of  this  picture  was  about  £160. 

Opposite  is  one  of  the  finest  pictures 
of  the  master,  and  commonly  called  la 
Sed  (the  Thirst)  de  Murillo,  the  subject 
being  Moees  striking  the  rock;  it  is 
dlTided  into  three  groups  the  water 
is  gushing  forth  from  the  rent  in  the 
rock,  the  miracle  is  performed,  the 
thirsty  Israelites,  each  with  a  different 
expression  of  past  anguish  and  pri- 
ration  mingled  with  present  delight 
and   gratitude,    are  rushing  forward. 

Animok  aluuo  ia  tkb  Joy  of  Um  body,  which 
the  toau-Aimb  ^muord  could  aloae  fuOy  onder- 
stoad  and  reodor.  Mooes,  hit  haads  Ibldod 
aad  with  a  oioat  ou^festic  attimdo  aad  auen, 
looks  op  to  heoTen  ia  thanksgiving.  Mooes's 
long  flowing  ganaents  are  dnped  after  the 
iashioo  of  the  nMaks,  whidi  MuriDo  and  Zttr- 
baiaa  studied  so  aioch.  nn  jreOov  twmc  aad 
craatoa  BMutle  are  beandlally  tiatadpaad  Us 
beaid  and  fiice  quito  ia  the  mm^tiut  style. 
Behind  htm  staads  his  brother  Aaroa,  ptayiag. 
Tne  giuu|itng  is  adiaiiabie,  and  the  dtnereat 
scenes  do  not  disluib  the  unity  of  the  coa^nsi- 
ttoo  and  subjecL  Obeerretheurduaooagrey 
horse,  a  pexitct/ilU,  whose  type  you  wQl  laeec 
oo  leaTtag  this  dionJL  The  little  giri  **— »**^ 
a puchero  rail  of  water;  the  group  lonMd  by 
a  woauui  driakiBg,  with  the  selfishaess  of  waat, 
while  the  child  she  is  carrying  begs  a  driak,  the 
dog  slaking  its  thifst,  a  wonaa  girlag  water  to 
ooQ»e  boys— aQ  types  of  Triana,  bmb,  dogs, 
drrasni,  totheTerycsBtaros,alcaitaias.botijas, 
etc ;  an  hi  this  cooposttioa  k  full  of  Ur<i^  looa! 
feeUag^  and  truth.  *Thit  palntti^  affords  the 
best  evidence  how  nobly  Murillo  could  haadk 
a  buia  sub^^ect.  It  is  adauiahly  cooipnead ;  for 
whilst  the  fine  dark  ssass  of  the  reck,  aad 
Moses  staadbg  beside  it,  form  a  sort  of  focus, 
the  groups  to  the  right  aad  left  auka  up  ths 
i|^  aad  by  their  detaib  mO  ths  story  ^PM> 


394 


SEVILLS— -CHUBCHES. 


vioas  raffeiiiig  and  mumculoat  relief  with  the 
greatest  truth  and  feeling.*  ('Fofeign  Quar- 
terly Review/ Na  ^6^  1834.)  Willdeiaysthat, 
owing  perhaps  to  its  position  and  daihnesa  of 
the  place,  it  disappointed  him,  and  had  a  grey 
negative  effect  He  adds:  *The  choice  of  ool- 
oors  in  the  Moses  is  poor,  and  the  chief  figure 
wants  rdief.  The  great  merit  of  the  work  lies 
in  the  i^>pearance  of  nature  and  truth  whidi  he 
has  given  to  the  wandering  desoendanu  of  Is- 
rad.'  MuriUo  received  about  £tjio  for  thb 
work.  The  magnificent  engraving  of  thb  pic- 
ture by  Esteve,  in  1839^  has  greiuly  added  to 
its  European  popularity.  The  first  proof  is  in 
one  of  the  rooms  here.  It  has  been  lately  var- 
nished over,  and  with  excess. 

The  azolejo  dadoe  outdde  the  chapel 
facade  repreeent  Charity,  Hope— 8t 
George  aod  St  James ;  ^ej  are  after 
designs  bj  Mnrillo.  The  choir  is  placed 
very  high,  aod  behind  it  is  the  ^calta- 
don  de  la  Cruz,  bj  Yald^  Leal,  paint- 
ed with  boldness  and  effect  The  Dnke 
of  Montpender  possesses  the  sketch  of 
it  bj  LeaL  The  lights  are  not  happily 
treated,  and  therefore  add  to  the  con- 
ftised  gronps  of  the  numberless  figures. 
See  rather  his  excellent  Triunfo  del 
Tiempo,  an  allegorical  picture,  intend- 
ed as  a  moral  lesson  on  the  inanity  of 
glory,  empty  hopes,  and  the  like  vanu 
ioM  vamiUcUium  of  this  world.  It  is  not 
a  pleasing  subject,  nor  is  it  at  all  Span- 
ish in  character,  but  the  treatment  of 
it  has  breadth,  grandeur,  thought  The 
colouring  is  most  beautilul  and  rich. 
Opposite  ^B  A  Dead  Prelate^  another  of 
Yald^'  which  also  points  a  moral,  but 
could  adorn  nothing  sare  a  gravedi^er's 
room.  On  seeing  it  Murillo  is  said  to 
hays  exclaimed,  'One  cannot  look  at 
your  picture.  Leal,  without  holding 
one's  nose.'  To  which  the  irritated 
master  ^b  said  to  haye  replied :  'Tou 
have  taken  all  the  flesh,  and  left  me  to 
work  but  bonea.'  Howerer,  Murillo's 
*8ta.  Isabel'  belongs  as  much  as  this 
to  the  naturalistic  school 

To  the  right  of  the  hsif-eaten  prelate 
is  the  body  of  the  founder,  represented 


after  his  own  orders,  and  wearing  on 
his  yelyet  coat,  eaten  into  by  wonns^ 
the  then  mott^nobU  order  of  Oslatraya. 
On  the  threshold  of  the  sacristia  ^b  the 
founder's  tomb^  which  was  originally 
outside  the  chapel,  so  tha^  according 
to  his  wish,  his  body  might  be  trodden 
upon  by  erery  one.  The  first  words  of 
the  epitaph  were  dictated  by  him.  He 
humbly  calls  his  ashes,  'Cenizas  del 
peor  hombre  que  ha  habido  en  el  mun- 
do.' 

In  the  sacristy  are  some  indifferent 
pictures  ascribed  to  great  masters.  In 
the  rooms  aboye,  see  the  full-length 
portrait  of  Mafiara,  by  Yald^  Leal,  not  a 
Don  Juanesqne  mien  or  (ace.  Obeerre 
also  a '  Vision  of  San  Oayetano'  quoted 
by  Gespedes,  and  two  aguadas  (water- 
colours)  on  some  books,  by  Yald^  Leal 
and  Iriarte.  The  portraits  of  distin- 
guishedmembers,cofhides,among8t  them 
the  Due  de  Montpensier,  etc — are  most 

indifferent  Mallara  left  ;£  10^000  a-year  to  the 
establishment  he  had  reorganised,  and  several 
wdl'in^wrcd  statutes  and  mlea.  Therewereibr- 
merly  eleven  Murillos  here,  whidi  were  rf'n'H 
betireen  i66oand  1674.  Marshal  Soultcarried 
away  five,  of  whidi  the  Abraham  receiving  the 
Angels  and  The  Prodigal  Son  were  pnrdiaaed 
by  the  Duke  of  Sutherland.  According  to 
Wilkie,  these  two  are  inieiior  to  those  now  at 
LaCaridad.  A  third  one,  the  Pod  of  Bethesda, 
was  sdd  to  Mr.  Tomline  for  i6obOoof.  The 
fourth.  The  Aagd  and  St.  Peter,  passed  in 
1851  to  Russia.  The  finest  of  them  all,  not  ex- 
cepting the  Thirst,  is  the  Sta.  Isabel  cunag  the 
Lepers.  It  was  returned  by  the  French  Go- 
vernment, and  is  now  at  the  Picture  Gallery  of 
San  Fernando,  Madrid.  For  this  and  the  San 
Juan  de  Dios,  Murillo  was  paid  i6,84or.  The 
pictures  of  Abraham,  Pool  of  Bethoda,  Pro- 
digal Son,  and  the  St.  Peter  and  Angel,  were 
paid  30,ooor.  For  his  two  best,  Valdfs  Leal 
waspaid  sy^or.Cardiives  of  the  establishment); 
there  is  a  sataU  Virgin  de  Belem,  over  Roldai^s 
Descent  from  the  Cross,  by  Murilla 

Sam  Lormto, — Plve  naves^  fonneriy 
a  mosque.  Its  former  principal  entrance 
is  blocked  up.  Its  miraculous  Yiigin 
de^Rocamador  dates  18th  century.  Its 
retoblo  mayor,  with  its  four  medslHons. 


8EVILL]fi*-^€HUItOHB8L 


395 


and  ft  Sftn  Lorenxo^  ire  hy  Montana 
The  Sefior  de  Ona  Poder  is  ftlao  b]rliim« 
ftoditoonsideradTeryfine.  Pktwrei, — 
A  Concepdon,  by  Fnmdtco  Pftcheco, 
1624.  An  AnnuncUtioii,  bj  Pedro  de 
Vill^gas  Mannolcijo,  who  is  buried  here. 
His  epitaph  is  by  Ariss  MontoAo,  the 
Escorisl  librariftiL 

San  MigueL—ThiB,  ope  of  the  oldest 
churches  here,  wss  rebuilt  by  King 
Don  Pedra  In  the  high*  chapel  ia 
buried  Don  Pedro's  '  Tslido'  or  DftTonr- 
ite  Martin  Talies  de  Aponte.  In  1647, 
the  arohaologist  and  poet,  Bodrigo 
Caro^  was  biuried  here.  The  style  is 
ogiyal,  of  14th  century.  The  portal, 
arches,  eta,  are  ornamented  with  nails. 
The  capitals  of  the  pillars  are  fpll  of 
flowers  and  the  leaf  ornament.  The 
Christ  bearing  His  Cross  is  a  master- 
piece of  Montana  The  pictures  are 
indifferent  and  copies. 

San  CUtnenU, — Built  on  the  site  of  a 
Moorish  palace,  belonged  to  the  Cister- 
tiannuna.  It  is  a  real  monasterio, 
from  being  the  burial-house  of  sereral 
crowned  heads.  Here  are  buried  Pedro 
el  Cmel*s  mother,  Maria  of  Portugal, 
wife  of  Alfonso  XT-,  and  the  latter  king's 
two  brothers,  and  in  the  choir  sereral 
infiuitas.  Obeenre  the  curious  beam- 
work  and  roo(  the  hall,  and  dome  fres- 
coes ;  the  asulcjos,.  which  date  1588. 
i^icfitfw.— High  Altar,  pkteresquestyle, 
by  Montan4s ;  portrait  of  St.  Fecdinand 
by  Yald^  Leal ;  two  pictures  of  him 
by  Pacheoo;  St  John  the  B(^>ti8t, 
carred  by  NuAes  Delgado,  and  painted 
by  Pacheoo— a  fine  work. 

San  rMmiiL— But  little  remains  of 
the  former  church  (800)  and  subsequent 
mosque.  The  brick  apse  with  agimeoes, 
the  three  daraboyas  or  circular  loop- 
holes which  li^t  the  three  nares,  and 
probably  the  Saracenic-looking  wooden 
roo(  are  the  only  restiges.  The  pio- 
tnres  forming  the  principal  letablo  are 
by  Yarek  (16th  century),  a  pupil  of 


Boelas ;  have  been  scattered  about  in 
the  Church.  They  represent  scenes 
from  the  life  of  San  Vicente.  jPfdntv. 
— Christ,  by  Morales.  A  bssso^reUero 
medallion,  'The  Descent,'  by  Pedro 
Delgado,  a  pupil  of  Micer  Florentine, 
and  who^  with  Morel,  worked  at  ths 
Cathedral  Tenebrario. 

San  JtUian.'^Qoitdc  portal  with 
statues  of  saints,  three  nares,  of  which 
two  are  blocked  up.  On  one  of  its 
walls^  Sanchez  Castro  painted  a  colossal 
St  Cristobal  in  1488.  It  was  repainted 
and  spoilt  in  1776.  The  head  was  not 
as  much  daubed  over,  and  is  fine.  To 
the  left  isa  better  preserred  Holy  Family 
by  same,  both  of  which  are  interesting 
data  for  the  history  of  the  Serilliaa 
schooL  The  O>ncepcion  at  the  altar  is 
ascribed  to  A.  Cano. 

SUl  Luda, — Picture,  a  Concepdon 
by  Cano,  and  Martyrdom  of  the  Saint 
by  Roelas. 

San  Juan  de  la  Palma, — Formeriy'* 
mosque ;  repaired  in  18th  century.  Ob- 
serre  the  ornamentation  of  heads  of 
nails,  lions*  and  dogs'  heads ;  the  rest- 
ing-place of  the  Mezias.  That  of 
Pedro  Mezia,  chronicler  of  Charles  Y.* 
haa  a  fine  epitaph  by  A.  Montafio. 
Pidmrm.'^A  C^dfixion  by  Campafia, 
hard;  but  the  Virgin  and  Magdalen 
finely  painted,  and  the  expression  good. 
'San  Juan'  carred  in  wood  by  0»- 
tUla 

San  StUban.^A  former  mosque^  the 
Moorish  style  of  which  was  rtpairmi' 
by  Pedro  el  Cruel ;  too  rare  an  instance 
in  Spain  of  Spanish  kings  keeping  up 
that  art  of  the  infidel  iVeliirci^  etc.— 
A  Crudfizion  by  Osmpafta ;  an  In£snt 
(Christ  by  Montana 

San  iWcbrv.— The  church  itself  in- 
different i^fcNirst.— SI  Transito»  or 
death  of  the  tutelar,  by  Boelaa.  TMf 
is  considered  his  best  work.  'The&oe 
of  the  dying  saint  upheld  by  his  sorrow- 
ic^'jlergy  isTeryfine,  and  thesnl^jeol 


396 


SEVILLB — ^PICTUBB-OALLBRT. 


suggests  s  comparison  which  would  be 
fatal  to  most  pictures ;  it  reminds  ns 
of  the  Commnnion  of  St  Jerome,  bj 
Domenichino ;  nor  do  I  beUere  that, 
as  a  whole,  the  work  of  Roelas  would 
lose  hy  juxtaposition  with  that  master- 
piece.' (Sir  Ed.  Head,  'Hand  of  Paint- 
ing' pi  108.)  St  Anthonj  and  St 
Paul,  by  Oampafia,  repainted.  Pictures 
by  Yald^;  El  Cirenco,  carredby  GQon. 

Oolegio  df  Jfaete  Rodrtffo.—lt  was  the 
first  university  of  Senile,  founded,  and 
the  edifice  built,  by  Oanon  Don  Rodrigo 
de  Santaella,  1472.  See  his  epita^Sb, 
'Diadte  mortales  coslestia  qusrere, 
nostra  in  dneres  landem  gloria  prima 
redit'  The  Estudios  Generales  were 
removed  in  1769  by  Charles  III.  to  the 
Jesuits'  House,  who  had  been  just  ex- 
pelled. Portnit  of  founder,  by  Zur- 
baran;  has  been  sadly  repainted  by 
Ycjarano. 

OoUgiata  de  San  Salvador, — An 
ancient  mosque  rebuilt  middle  of  17th 
century  ;  the  style  churrigueresque. 
Image  of  San  Cristobal,  by  Montana  ; 
Stas.  Justa  and  Rufina,  by  Com^o. 
Observe  the  Moorish  patio,  and  the 
miraculous  Cristo  de  los  Desamparados. 

San  Andrii. — Pictures  by  Yillegas 
Harmol^o,  and  a  fine  Concepcion  by 
Montana 

San  AUmio. — ^Pictures  by  Pacheoo. 

OwmAuim  Sandontm. — ^A  very  Moor- 
ish looking  church,  one  of  the  finest 
which  D.  Pedro  rebuilt 
'  San  Fedro, — ^A  former  mosque.  A 
fins  retablo  picture  by  Campafta,  in- 
jured. The  Delivery  of  St  Peter,  by 
Boelas. 

Sia,  Maria  la  BUmea,—k  Lord's 
Supper,  by  Murillo,  in  his  earliest 
style  ;  a  Dead  Christ,  by  L.  de  Vargas^ 
iigured,  but  magnificently  painted. 

The  church  of  the  present  uniivmtUy 
was  erected  for  the  Jesuits  after  designs 
by  Herrera,  and  belongs,  as  all  his  did, 
to  the  classic  style.     Observe  in  the 


retablo  three  pictures  by  Boelas — a  Holy 
Family  with  a  fine  figure  of  a  Jesuit 
in  the  foreground ;  the  Virgin  and  St 
Joseph,  fine,  and  the  colouring  excel- 
lent Observe,  also^  the  Nativity  and 
Adoration.  These  three  pictures  are 
considered  by  some  as  Roelas'  finest 
examples  in  Seville.  The  Holy  Family 
above  iB  by  Frandseo  Pacheca  An 
Infant  also  by  him  is  not  as  good. 
The  Crucifixion  was  carved  by  Mon- 
tana and  the  colossal  statues  of  SS. 
Peter  and  Paul  are  also  ascribed  to 
him.  The  Medina-Celi  family  have 
their  tombs  here ;  they  are  very  fine, 
and  deserve  dose  examination. 

In  the  chapel  of  the  Church  otSam 
Martin  are  some  early  pictures  by 
Herrera  el  Yiijo,  mostly  indifierent 
A  fine  Saviour  bearing  his  Ooss,  by 
Vsld^  The  azul^os  of  Chapel  de 
Gallcjo,  built  1600,  repaired  1614,  are 
very  beautifuL 

In  chapel  of  San  Bemardc^k  Last 
Judgment  by  Herrera  el  Vicjo;  the 
colouring  ^b  good ;  a  San  Bernardo, 
sculptured  by  Montan^  well  executed  ; 
and  a  somewhat  indifferent  picture  of 
the  Last  Supper,  by  Yarela,  wanting 
especially  in  vigour  of  expression  and 
life,  lliere  were  upwards  of  140 
churches  formerly  in  Seville^  each  a 
rich  museum  of  works  of  art  The 
French  invasion,  neglect,  and  the  sup- 
pression of  convents,  were  the  causes  of 
their  present  decayed  state.  Most 
are  interesting  still,  and  having  been 
mosques^  and  subsequently  modified 
by  the  conquerors,  present  a  medley, 
not  always  ineffective,  of  the  Saracenic, 
ogival,  and  even  Romanesque  styles. 


The  'Pioture  •  Ghallory  of  Seville 
was  the  former  Church  and  Convent  de 
la  Merced,  founded  in  1249  by  St  Fer- 
dinand, and  rebuilt  It  was  formed  in 
1838  by  the  cars  of  Sr.  B^arano^adi» 


8KVILLE — PIOrURE-  GALLERY. 


397 


ttngaislied  painter  of  SeiiUe^  wbo  wm 
aided  bj  Tolontarj  eabacriptioiiB.  The 
pictures  it  contains  were  sared  from 
destmction,  negleot»  and  bargains  by 
Dean  Cepero,  t^o  years  before  the  sop- 
pression  of  conyents,  and  after  their 
retorn  from  Gibraltar,  whither,  during 
the  French  inrasion,  D.  Lois  Ordo&ei^ 
a  patriotic  amateur,  had  sent  them. 
The  church  itself  ia  indifferent  The 
two  patios  are  fine  ;  the  chapel,  of  one 
nare,  with  fine  frescoes,  is  being  ar- 
ranged to  contain  the  pictures  now  ill 
disteibuted,  and  a  new  catalogue  is 
about  tobe  published.  |^  For  permission 
send  card  by  the  imterpreU  to  the  S. 
Director  del  Museo ;  for  any  subse- 
quent Tisits  the  porters  msks  no 
difficulties. 

This  picture-gallery,  the  finest  in 
Spain  after  that  of  Madrid,  is  espedally 
rich  in  Murillos,  of  great  Talue  and 
good  presenration.  l^ere  are  besides 
serend  Tery  precious  Zurbarans,  Roelaa^ 
Yald^  etc.,  whose  authenticity  is  un- 
questionable. Murillo  has  the  honour 
of  a  special  and  separate  salon,  and 
here  that  great  master  may  be  studied 
to  adyantage.  Most  of  the  works  here 
he  painted  for  the  Capuchin  Conrent, 
which  was  built  in  1627,  dose  to 
Puerta  de  Cordoba,  and  finally  de- 
stroyed in  1836.  The  retabb  of  the 
high  altar  was  full  of  pictures  by  him, 
and  each  formed  a  sublime  page  of  one 
of  those  poems  called  retablos,  that 
were  inspired  in  the  noiseless  cloisters 
of  a  conrent,  or  the  sombre  nares  of  a 
cathedral  The  larger  painting  in  the 
centre  represented  a  mystic  episode  of 
the  life  of  San  Frandsco,  and  ia  gene- 
rally known  as  'The  Jubilee  of  the 
Porduncula.'  On  the  sides,  and  as 
pendants,  were  hung;  to  the  right, 
Stas.  Justa  y  Rufina,  now  here ;  on  the 
left,  San  Leandro  and  St.  BuenaTentura, 
both  of  whose  grsTe  masculine  char- 
acter contrasted  with  the  soft  expres- 


sion of  the  two  Yiigins.  Abore  were 
placed  St  John  in  the  Desert,  and 
Joseph  and  the  Child  (both  here),  and 
orer  them  the  half-sized  St  Antiiony 
and  St  Felix  of  Cantalida  crowning 
the  composition  and  each  as  the  title 
of  the  two  open  pages.  Under  the 
central  painting  hung  the  channing 
Yiigin  and  Child  of  which  there  are 
so  many  engravings  now  about  the 
world.  In  the  apse  of  that  church, 
Murillo  painted  the  first  and  last  page 
of  the  Gospel — yis.  The  Annunci^on 
— all  brightness,  youth,  hope,  and  hea- 
venly bliss  at  the  forthcoming  birth  of 
Christ,  and  a  Mater  DoloroM,  fiill  of 
the  deepest  feeling  of  woe  and  bereave- 
ment, sombre  melancholy,  a  painted 
'SUbat  Matc^ '  of  Rossini's.  The  rest 
of  the  paintings  were  distributed  in  dif- 
ferent chapelfl^  and  most  of  them  are 
tobe  seen  here. 

Salon  de  iftfiiUo.— (Beginning  on 
left  on  entering.) 

Na  162.  Son  Felix,  head  of  saint, 
very  fine,  rich  colouring  of  frock. 

No.  149.  San  AugusUn,  early,  &ce 

not  veiT  expressive. 
Ka  162.  Adoration  of  Shepheids. 

No.  806.  San  Pedro  Nolasco,  of  in- 
ferior degree. 

No.  161.  A  Concepdon,  small  size, 
a  charming  picture,  worthy  of  Murillo's 
appellation,  '£1  pintor  de  las  Ooncep- 
dones.' 

No.  167.  Yirgen  de  Bdem  (Bethle- 
hem.) The  Yiiig^'s  mouth  pinciisd  up, 
and  the  Child  too  statuesque.  The 
draperies  hang  gracefully  about,  and 
the  white  linen  ia  exquidtdy  folded, 
but  the  colour  turning  to  blue.  Com- 
pare this  with  La  Yieige  an  Chapdet,at 
the  Louvre,  No.  647. 

No.  160.  Annunciation.  The  co- 
louring very  fine  ;  here  he  truly  paints, 
as  was  said  of  him,  'con  loohe  y 
sangra. 

No.   166.    The  tutekrs  of  SevID^ 


398 


SBVILLB — ^PIOrURS-OALLERT. 


Saints  Justa  and  Bnflna,  holding  the 
Qiralda  in  their  handa.  Two  perfect 
types  of  the  lower  orders,  selected  at 
Triana.  Of  the  Calido  or  2d  style. 
According  to  a  tradition,  they  sup- 
ported the  Moorish  tower  when  a  tem- 
pest was  blowing  which  threatened  to 
poll  it  down.  It  is  painted  with  care, 
and  beantifbUy  oolonred.  The  crock- 
ery, jogi^  etc^  on  the  foreground,  are 
stiU  those  seen  in  every  market 

Na  168.  A  Conoepdon ;  very  rich 
bines. 

No  166.  Santo  Tomas  de  YillanneTa 
giring  alms.  From  the  Capachin  Con- 
Tent  This  was  the  painter's  favonrite 
picture,  which  he  called  'mi  cuadro.' 
*  It  was  Tery  much  admir^  by  Wilkie, 
who  calls  it  one  of  the  finest  by  this 
master.'  ('  Life  of  WUkie,'  ii.  p.  614.) 
'  In  the  saint's  face  and  figure  there  Im 
a  wonderful  union  of  dignity  and 
humility,  whilst  the  beggars  in  the 
front  are  admirable  for  truth  and  ex- 
pression ;  as,  for  instance,  the  boy  on 
the  left  showing  to  his  mother  the 
money  which  he  received '  (Sir  Ed. 
Head);  'and  she  looks  at  the  child 
as  lovingly  and  as  cheerful  as  if  she 
were  not  a  poor  beggar  woman '  (Mdme. 
Hahn-Hahn's  'Beisebriefe,'  vL  s.  182). 
The  kneeling  beggar  is  unrivalled.  It 
is  'la  nature  prise  snr  le  fait'  The 
colouring  ia  warm  and  rich,  and  the 
composition  wonderf^  It  has,  we 
think,  only  another  pendant  to  com- 
pare to  it  among  all  the  works  of 
MurOlo,  and  that  is  the  St  Elisabeth 
at  the  jHcture-gallery  of  San  Fernando, 
Madrid. 

No.  166.  Yirgen  de  la  Servilleta  (or 
Virgin  of  the  Napkin),  so  called  be- 
cause 9aid  to  have  been  painted  on  a 
dinner  napkin,  and  was  a  gift  to  the 
cook  at  the  convent  when  Murillo 
woiked  at  the  Capuchinos  at  Cadis. 
The  drapery  is  very  fine,  and  the  babe 
belongs  to  that   happy  race  of  tiny 


mortals  described  by  ladies  as  'perfect 
dailingi.'  The  Virgin's  face  is  rather 
sensual  than  expressive  of  ideality. 

No.  169.  A  Conoepdon.  The 
cherubs  are  represented  in  every  pos- 
sible attitude.  The  colours,  espeoiallr 
the  blues,  seem  to  be  undergoing  a  slom 
but  certain  decomposition. 

Na  161.  St  Francis  embracing  the 
Crndfied  Saviour ;  belongs  to  the  8d 
style  (vspofoso)  \  a  magnificent  com- 
position ;  deeply  meditated ;  carefully 
executed  ;  taU  of  grandeur,  piety,  and 
genius.  The  saint's  countenance,  ex- 
presdve  of  ecstatic  fervour  and  reveren- 
tial awe,  ii  admirably  painted. 

No.  164.  San  Felix  de  Cantalida, 
with  the  Infant  Jesus  in  his  arms.  The 
Viigin  is  leaning  forward  to  receive 
him ;  '  one  of  the  best  examples  of 
MurOlo's  colouring;  and  vaporoso 
style ;  the  child  is,  perhaps,  Mu- 
rillo's  best  niMo,'  The  delicate  execu- 
tion and  colour  of  this  great  work, 
and  the  beauty  of  the  Virgin's  figure, 
mske  it,  perhaps,  superior  to  any  other 
of  the  series ;  certainly  in  my  opinion, 
superior  to  the  St  Anthony  in  the  cathe- 
dral'   (Sir  Ed.  Head.  'Hand.  Paint') 

No.  162.  8S.  Leandro  and  Buena- 
ventura ;  classed  among  the  finest  of 
the  masters  by  Wilkie ;  an  exaggerated 
praise  perhaps,  for,  laying  aside  the 
admirable  treatment  of  the  drapery, 
and  the  expression,  attitude,  and  draw- 
ing of  the  saint  on  right  of  spectator, 
the  general  effect  is  hot  powerfid :  8d 
manner. 

Na  168.  St  Joseph  end  the  Child. 
A  novel  treatment  of  the  saint,  who  is 
invariably  represented  as  a  thin,  hag- 
gard old  man.  The  rich  browns  of 
the  eapa  parda  contrast  admirably  with 
the  soft,  milky,  fair  hands  and  face  of 
the  child.  St  Joseph's  right  hand  ia 
beautifuL 

Na  168.  St  John  the  Baptist ;  a 
pendant  to  former,  and  bearing  also  ths 


8SVILLB — HOrURK-ftATJiKRY. 


399 


painter'a  effort  to  doTute  from  the  com- 
mon type  of  thif  saint  The  ezpreesion 
of  ferroor  is  •dmirsbl j  rendered.  The 
lamb  ii  finely  painted,  especially  for  a 
Spanish  painter,  no  great  obsenrer  of 
animal  life. 

Ko.  107.  St  Agnstin. 

Ka  166.  La  Piedad,  or  Virgin  and 
Angels,  and  a  Dead  Christ  Great 
feeling  in  the  expression ;  the  Angeb 
pleasing. 

Ka  157.  St  Anthony  of  Padna. 
Considered  by  many  as  finer  than  the. 
St  Anthony  at  the  cathedral  The 
saint's  head  is  magnificent,  and  the 
Child  indeed  Ood-like.  Go  as  dose  to 
it  as  possible,  and  study  every  detail  of 
the  saint's  head,  for  it  is  a  wonder  of 
painting — a  icur  de  foree. 

No.  169.  The  same  snbjeet,  bat  not 
the  same  inspiration. 

The  other  Murillos  in  the  pictnre- 
gallery  are  inferior  in  merit  A  Con- 
ception, rery  largo,  and  from  the  Fran- 
ciscan Conront  In  the  Several  rooms, 
obsenre  especially — 

Zuirbaran. — ^Apotheosis  of  St  Thomas 
Aquinas.  Carrieil  away  by  Sonlt,  and 
reoorered  by  the  Duke  of  Wellington 
at  Waterloo.  It  is  considered  by  all  as 
that  painter's  masterpieoe^  who  was 
called  the  Spauish  Caravaggio  ;  'but,' 
says  Sir  £.  Head,  'the  Pieti  of  the 
Italian  master  in  the  Vatican,  thou^ 
fine,  does  not  in  my  opinion  come  near 
it  Indeed,  there  are  few  pictures  in 
the  world  which  are  superior  to  it* 
The  composition  is  simple  but  appro- 
priate. Above  in  glory  are  represented 
the  Christ  and  Virgin,  with  St  Paul 
and  St  Dominic ;  and  below  is  St 
Thomas  Aquinas  with  the  four  Doctors 
of  the  Latin  Church — Ambrose,  Augus- 
tin,  Jerome,  and  Gregory  (St  Thomas 
was  treated  as  the  fifth  Doctor  by  Pins 
V.  in  1668).  Nearest  of  all  kneel 
Charles  V.  and  Arch.  Deza,  the  founder 
of  the  college  of  Sto.  Tomas,  for  which 


it  was  painted  in  1625.  The  St  Tho- 
mas's head  is  a  portrait  of  D.  Agntdm  de 
Escobar.  'A  superb  picture  which 
places  that  master  (Znrbaian)  next  to 
Murillo^  and  in  a  style  that  we  could 
wish  the  great  painter  of  Seville  had  in 
some  degree  followed.'  ('  Life  of 
Wilkic'il  p.  580.)  'It  exhibits  the 
powerful  drawing  of  Caravaggio^  and  the 
rich  colouring  of  Titian,  and  if  certainly 
a  wonderful  work  of  art'  (Heskins* 
Spain  as  it  is,'  vol  ii.  p.  829.) 

Ssn  Enrique  de  Snfon,  the*  Padre 
Etemo^  San  Bruno  before  Urban  II., 
San  Luis  Bertram,  a  Saviour,  the 
Virgin  protecting  the  Monks,  and  San 
Hugo  in  the  Refectory.  They  are 
somewhat  injured,  but  still  very  fine. 

iVuftseo.--i8an  Pedro  Nolasco. 

J%um  M  OuUUo.'-The  msster  of 
Murillo  and  Oano.  Four  subjects  from 
Life  of  the  Virgin,  formerly  at '  Monte 
Sion.'    The  Coronation  is  the  best 

acTTtm  w  ri^o.^ San  Hermene- 
gildo  ;  very  Italian-like.  The  merit  of 
this  picture  procured  PhUip  IV. 's  par- 
don for  a  forgery  he  had  been  guiltj  of 
It  haa  been  retouched.  His  8<m 
Satilio  '  is  bold  and  Ribera-like ;  ob- 
serve the  kneeling  bishop  and  the 
handling  of  the  drapery,  for  in  it  is  the 
germ  of  Velazques.'  (Ford. )  '  A  wild, 
grand  composition,  ami  the  angel  in  the 
foreground  very  fine ;  but  the  colour- 
ing of  this  picture  is  not  good.'  (Hos- 
kins,  ii  p.  880.) 

Boelas, — San  Andres ;  very  powerful 
and  Italian-like. 

dspoiet.— A  Last  Supper ;  a  Christ, 
both  very  fine. 

FaidSi  Ltal.^SemnX  subjects  firom 
life  of  St  Jerome,  formeriy  at  the 
Geronimo  Convent 

iVti^— Calvario,  Descent,  Virgin, 
Crucifixion,  formerly  at  Las  Bubaa. 
They  are  his  best 

Juan  de  roreZo. —Battle  of  Ckr^'Oi 
considered  very  fine. 


400 


SEVILLE — OOLOMBINB  UBKARY. 


dfartin  d$  Fb$, — ^liatt  Judgment ; 
fine,  thd  rery  oelebrtted  ;  formerly  At 
the  Angnstine  Conrent,  and  executed  in 
1670.  Paoheco,  page  201,  tells  na  that 
the  female  nuditiea  of  thla  picture 
troubled  so  the  mind  of  the  priests 
during  mass  that  it  prerented  thdr  say- 
ing it  quietly  before  it ;  and  a  bishop 
who  had  been  in  the  Indies  declared  he 
would  rather  stand  a  hurricane  in  the 
Guli  of  Bermuda  than  perform  mass 
again  opposite  to  it 

6^)ya.— -Portrait  of  Ferdinand  YII. 

There  are  no  Velazquex',  though  Se- 
Tille  was  his  native  place  (the  one  re- 
presenting  a  Friar  Bagging  is  ascribed 
to  him,  and  is  very  much  iigured) ;  no 
Canos  either,  stnmgeto  say,  nor  Luis 
de  Yaigas.  The  minor  painters  of  the 
Sevillian  school  have  some  examples 
here.  The  best  are  by  Tobar,  Seb. 
Qomes  (Mulato)  Francisco  Meneses, 
Andres  Perei,  J.  Sim,  Gutierres,  etc 

Seulpiur*, — In  the  patios  are  several 
fragments  of  statues,  columns^  etc, 
found  in  the  ruins  of  Italica.  They 
are  of  no  great  merit,  and  mostly  be- 
long to  the  period  of  decline  in  Roman 
art  NeTotheless,  a  fine  head  of  a 
Minenra,  a  small  Venus,  some  busts  of 
Roman  Emperors,  and  two  very  fine 
ionoi,  belong;  according  to  some,  to  a 
more  flourishing  state  of  art  The  in- 
scriptions are  unimportant  One  in 
the  larger  patio  is  allusiye  to  VaL 
Maximianus*  pacification  of  Bctica 
and  another  to  Bacchus.  'Libero 
Pstri  Saor.,'  etc  At  the  entrance  is  a 
fine  iron  cross,  by  Sebastian  Cond^ 
1692.  The  magnificent  SiUeria,  by 
Com^o^  once  at  die  Gartuga,  haa  been 
recently  remored  to  the  cathedral  of 
Oidis. 

By  MmUm4t,^A  fine  Sto.  Domingo^ 
and  a  crucifix. 

8tm  Bnmo, — ^Very  beautiAil ;  pUced 
recently  in  the  larger  room,  formerly 
the  church  itselC 


The  Four  Cardinal  Virtues. 

St  John.    A  good  Virgin  aadChOd. 

Torrigiana. — A  temr  cotta  St  Je- 
rome from  the  convent  of  Buena- Vista. 
He  wis  the  author  of  the  screens  and 
sepulchre  of  Henry  VII.  at  Westminster 
Abbey,  and  the  rival  of  Iff.  Angelo. 
The  saint  ia  represented  gazing  on  a 
cross,  whilst  he  is  holding  a  stone  with 
which  he  is  striking  his  breast  to  do 
penance  The  anatomy  is  very  fine; 
the  expression  of  the  hot  of  this  pious 
mt^man  is  excellent 

To  oopy  any  picture,  apply  to  S. 
Director.  This  gentleman  and  D.  An- 
tonio Lara  copy  also  very  fitirly,  and  at 
moderate  charges. 

LiBRA&iis. — Colombine,  Archives  of 
the  Indies,  Provincial  Biblioteca  de  la 
Universidad. 

BIBIiIOTXOA    OOLOMBHTA. 
Admittance  free 

Open  <Uil7«  Mccepc  oo  hoUdayi^  from  lo  A.U.  to 
t  r.M..  In  the  BBOotltt  of  Jime,  July,  August, 
Septenber,  the  hoon  are  from  7  to  lo^  moraing 
only.  The  director  is  styled  '  IhistHsino  Sr. 
BtbBotecario  Cepituhir  de  U  Biblioteca  Colom 
bina.'  The  employ^  are  obligiog,  but  not  well 
infonned,  and  the  catalogue  is  very  second  rate. 


This  library  was  chiefly  formed  by 
the  legacy  of  Fernando  Colon,  son  of 
the  great  Christopher  Columbus.  He 
was  a  learned  scholar,  as  well  as  a  brave 
and  akilftil  soldier,  accompanied  his 
lather  and  uncle  Don  Diiga  several 
times  to  America,  and  was  in  all  the 
wars  of  Italy,  Flanders,  and  Germany. 
His  projects  of  founding  academies, 
schools,  libraries,  were  most  excellent, 
but  he  died  without  realising  them,  and 
bequeathed  to  the  Chapter  his  private 
library  amounting  to  some  20,000 
volumes,  which  were  slowly  incrMsed 
afterwards  to  their  present  number, 
80,000^  but  through  neglect,  worms, 
and  insects  of  all  sorts,  Columbui^  own 
set  of  books  are  now  reduced  to  10^000. 
Among  other  curious  books,  collsctsd 


SEVILLE — X7N1VSRSITT  LIBRARY. 


401 


bj  Ilim  in  all  paitt  of  the  world  are : 
a  '  DiTina  Gommediay'  contemporaiy  of 
Dante;  the  'Teeoro^'  a  translation  of 
that  written  by  Dante'e  master,  Bm- 
netto  Utini;  the  'Misal  del  Cardinal 
Mendoca,'  of  16th  centurj,  fnll  of 
cnrioQS  and  beaatifnl  illnininations. 
See  especiall J  the  Death  of  Christ 
The  Pontifical,  in  folio  (in  stand  or 
table  No.  149),  of  1890,  ooght  to  be 
carefollj  studied  bj  those  who  wish 
to  become  acquainted  with  the  dresses, 
fnmitare,  buildings,  arms,  and  ships, 
etc,  of  that  period,  which  are  referred 
to  in  its  numerous  cuts.  The  illumi- 
nations of  the  'Misal  Ilispalense' 
(No.  12),  folio  of  14th  to  15th  century, 
espedallj  the  capital  letten,  are  glo- 
rious. See  also  miniature  illustration  by 
Guillen  de  Urrea  in  the  Evangelistario, 
foUo(Ublel46,  No.  6). 

The  MSS.  relating  to  the  history  of 
Spain  and  of  the  locality  are  not  Tery 
important  For  those  on  this  city,  see 
end  of  Serille.  There  is  interesting  MS. 
poetry  of  Dante,  Petraroo,  Ceoco  d*As- 
coli,  etc.  Of  Columbus  himself  there 
ia  bnt  little  here,  and  what  there  ii 
has  already  been  published  by  Nara- 
rette  and  Irring;  etc  Amongst  others 
is  the  'Tractatus  de  Imagine  Muiidi' 
of  Cardinal  Pierre  d'Ailly,  published 
in  1480,  at  LouTain.  It  contains  all 
the  information  of  Ptolemy,  Aristotle, 
Pliny,  etc,  on  the  form  of  the  world. 
Columbus  copied  it  with  his  own  hand 
and  added  notes,  which  are  not  impor- 
tant There  is  also  a  tract  written  by 
him  to  satisfy  the  Inquisition,  and  de- 
claring that  his  discorery  was  pre- 
dicted in  the  Scriptures.  Documents 
relatiTS  to  him  and  his  journeys  may 
be  looked  for  at  the  Archiyo  de  Indies 
hero,  at  Madrid,  at  Duke  d'Osuna's 
and  Duke  de  7«inigua*s  libnuies,  at  Bib- 
lioteca  de  la  Historia,  Madrid,  etc,  but 
the  most  raluable  are  no  doubt  locked 
tipattheYatioan.  His  letten  hare  been 

2 


Admirably  transited  by  Mr.  Miyor. 
'  Select  Letters  of  Christopher  Colum- 
bus,' etc  London,  1867.  Haokluyt 
Society,  toL  L  8.  The  portraits  above 
the  book-shelres  are  all  of  aix^bishops 
of  Serille.  Notice^  besides^  a  physician 
(Francisco  Boni£u),  by  A.  Cano,  and 
an  inferior  Murillo^  San  Fernando.  On 
the  staircase  is  the  tomb  of  Inigo  Men- 
doza  (1497).  In  Cuarto  de  los  Sub- 
sidios  ii  a  Piedad  by  Juan  Nufies.  In 
the  Sala  de  la  Hermandad  del  Santisimo 
is  a  Dispute  of  the  Sacrament,  by  Her- 
rera  the  younger,  and  others  by  Arteaga ; 
the  Infant  Sariour  ia  by  Montana 

The  Colombine,  as  the  Archivo  de 
Indias  and  most  libraries  in  Spain,  has 
nerer  been  properly  investigated,  foreign 
literati  visiting  it  for  a  determined  ob- 
ject SeAor  D.  Aurel  Femes.  Guerra 
found  out  quite  recently,  in  the  Colum- 
bine, a  very  valuable  MS.  It  is  re- 
gistered A,  141-4,  and  with  the  title, 
Nc  4,  Poesias,  Palacio,  Yaria ;  MSS. 
T.  4.  The  contents  have  been  pub- 
lished a  few  months  ago  in  an  appendix 
to  the  interesting  and  important  biblio- 
graphical work.  'Ensayodeunabibli- 
oteca  Espaftola  de  Libros  raroe  y  curi- 
ooos,'  by  Messrs.  Zaroodel  Yalle  and 
Rayon  horn  notes  by  Gallardo^  a  judici- 
ous book-worm.  They  cousin  of  a  lon^ 
admirable  letter  of  Cervantes  to  a  friend, 
on  the  Fiesta  of  San  Juan  de  Alfarache. 
Two  charming  entremeees  by  Cervantes ; 
oneentiUed  *LaCbrcelde  SeviUa»'the 
other  <£1  Hospital  de  los  Podridos,'  and 
a  '  Reladon  de  la  Cared  de  Seville,'  by 
the  same,  abounding  in  most  valuable 
information,  as  illustrating  his  and 
Quevedo's  works,  besides  seven  'ro- 
mances' etc,  and  an  Oposoulo  by  Gnti- 
erre  de  Cetina. 

ITnlTeraitr  Idbrarj.— Open   dafly, 

except  on  holidays  (admittanoe  free), 

same  hours,   etc,  as  for  Colombine. 

This  libraiy,  now  amounting  to 

D 


402 


SEVniiB— SAN  TELMO. 


60,000  Tolumei^  wta  fonned  by  Sefkoret 
Villa  and  Cepero  with  bookB  proceeding 
from  the  Jesuits  and  sappressed  con- 
vents. In  1846,  the  important  one  of 
the  Colcgo  Mayor  de  Maeae  Rodrigo 
was  added  to  the  ftmd,  and  a  year  after 
that  of  San  Acasia.  It  is  sitnated  in 
the  lower  floor  of  the  IJniyersity  Build- 
ing; and  the  Beading-Room  is  about 
150  ft  long.  The  Catalogue^  mm  avis 
in  this  land,  is  yery  well  got  up  and 
classified.  There  areserersl  yeiy  im- 
portant MSS.  relati?e  to  ecclesiastical 
history,  fueros,  charts^  chronicles^  classic 
authors,  theology,  numismatics,  etc. 

Ar^ivo  de  Indiat  is  one  of  the  most 
importsnt  collections  of  documents  on 
the  West  Indies.  It  was  formed  in  the 
reign  of  Charles  III.,  who  ordered,  in 
1781,  that  all  the  papers  extant  at 
Simancas,  relatiye  to  America,  that  had 
already  been  collected  in  1778,  should 
be  sent  to  Seyille,  where  they  were 
placed  in  the  Consulado  or  Loiga. 
The  fine  Doric  mahogany  book-cases 
were  begun  by  his  orders  ;  the  Serille 
Inquisitor  Lara  classified  the  papers, 
and  Cean  Bermudez  put  them  in  order. 
There  are  some  80,000  legajos,  or 
docketed  bundles^  arranged  into  the 
eleren  audiencias  into  which  Spain  and 
America  were  divided,  including  Fill- 
pinas.  Each  audienda  is  dirided  into 
the  secular  and  ecclesiastical  branches ; 
and  those  under  the  name  of  the  autho- 
rities^ corporation,  and  indiyiduals  who 
are  the  object  of  them,  arranged  chrono- 
logically ;  several  other  bundles,  un- 
classifiable,  are  collected  under  the  name 
of  Indiferentes.  The  indices,  alpha- 
betically drawn  up,  etc^  are  in  great 
order.  The  archivero  and  oficialus  most 
civil,  and  all  facilities  to  copy,  investi- 
gate, etc,  readily  granted.  The  con- 
tents are  very  important  for  the  History 
of  Spain,  that  of  the  Colonies,  that  of 
SouUi  America,  the  Slave-Tntde,  etc 
The  author  of  the  last  valuable  work 


on  the  Slave-Trade  has  derived  much 
useful  information  fhnn  these  archives. 
*The  Spanish  Conquest  of  America  and 
its  relation  to  the  Histoiy  of  Slavery  and 
the  Qovemmeut  of  Colonies,'  by  A. 
Helps,  8  vols.  8vo.  London,  1865-67. 
They  are  nevertheless  stiU  very  little 
known,  and  deserve  investigation. 
Among  the  curiosities  are:  The  od- 
ginsl  treaty  between  the  Cathedral 
singers  and  Columbus,  dated  at  Santa 
F^  dose  to  Oranada.  A  letter,  written 
by  Pizarro's  secretary,  in  his  name,  as 
the  discoverer  of  Peru  knew  better 
how  to  wield  a  sword  than  handle  a 
pen.  His  conventions  with  Almagro, 
who  was  as  ignorant,  are  drawn  up  by 
Juan  de  Panes  and  Alvaro  del  Quico. 
The  papers  signed  Bart  de  los  Cases, 
the  daves'  advocate^  as  he  styles  him- 
self^ '£1  Procurador  de  los  Indies,'  will 
be  found  interesting.  There  is  a  curious 
letter  of  Cervantes,  being  a  petition  for 
a  reward  or  compensation  for  the  hand 
hehadlostatLepanto.  Philip  IL  writes 
on  the  margin,  disdainfully  referring 
the  matter  to  the  Consejo  di  Indias. 
The  few  pictures  here  are  indifferent 

Fiaiae$  of  San  JWmo.— This  most 
charming  and  semi-oriental  residence 
of  the  Duke  and  Duchess  de  Montpen- 
sier  is  situated  on  the  fashionable  pro- 
menade, with  views  on  the  Quadal- 
quivir,  Torre  del  Oro,  etc,  and  sur- 
rounded by  spacious  gardens  full  of 
orange-trees,  dtrons,  and  rare  American 
plants.  The  building  was  erected 
about  1681  for  Charles  II.,  who  des- 
tined it  for  a  school  for  the  navy, 
which  it  continued  to  be  till  1849,  when 
the  Queen  caused  it  to  be  given  to  her 
sister,  the  Duchesse  de  Montpensier. 
It  has  been  considerably  altered  and 
improved,  and  the  long  facade  to  the 
gardens  is  of  great  taste  and  elegance 
The  principal  facade  is,  like  the  rest, 
churrigueresque,   and  decorated  with 


8SVILLB — ^THB  LONJA. 


403 


marblei^  etc. ;  it  cost  £10,000.  The 
rooms  «re  handsomely  fitted  np^  aod 
most  hare  foantains  in  the  snmmer. 
There  are  some  cnriodties  to  be  seen ; 
:nch  as  the  identical  guitar,  with  a 
musical  box  inside,  which  was  used  by 
Queen  Isabella ;  a  sword  of  Pedro  el 
Cruel ;  and  the  interesting  one  which 
belonged  first  to  the  Conde  Feman 
Gonzalez,  and  then  to  Garci  Peres  de 
Vargas,  who  contributed  to  the  capture 
of  Seville,  under  St.  Ferdinand.  It  was 
formerly  in  the  Colom.  Library.  The 
old  inscription  on  a  paper  dose  by  is 
by  way  of  a  monologue  pronounced  by 
the  sword  itself,  and  ends : — 

Soy  U  octava  maimviOaL 
En  oortar  moras  gvgantas 
NoQ  sabr^  dedr  cuantss.— 
Mas  96  que  gan6  A  SevUla. 

There  is  a  fine  clock  and  csndeUbra 
by  Benrenuto  Cellini  There  are  some 
good  pictures,  besides  the  series  of 
family  portraite,  mostly  danbs,  but  good 
likenesses. 

Notice  especially  a  fine  Piedad  by 
Morales ;  pictures  of  saints  by  Herrera 
el  Yicjo ;  four  subjects  of  Life  of 
Christ — Katirity,  Circumdsion,  An- 
nunciation, and  Adoration — by  Zur- 
baran,  fine,  especially  the  last,  which 
\b  admirably  composed  ;  a  Sketch  by 
Vald^  Leal ;  a  Martyrdom  by  Ribera ; 
repulsire,  but  full  of  vigour  and  good 
colouring.  By  Mnrillo,  a  beautiful 
Yirgon  de  la  Fiya ;  the  Yiigin's  lace  is 
all  love  and  tenderness ;  it  was  sold  to 
Louis  Philippe  by  a  Seville  nobleman, 
the  Conde  del  Aguila,  for  £3000.  By 
Orrente,  several  Landscapes  with  ani- 
mals, fine  specimens  of  his  style.  A 
Hare,  by  Meneses;  and  a  charming 
picture.  Ladies  looking  out  of  a  Bal- 
cony, by  Ooya.  By  foreign  painters 
we  have  seen  a  'Holy  Family,*  by  Scb. 
del  Piombo,  powerMly  drawn ;  a 
portrait  by  Greece ;  a  Rubens ;  SS. 
Peter  and    Paul,  by   Frutet,    highly 


finished,  good  attitudes,  colouring  fine; 
a  Van  Ostsde^  full  of  life;  a  Jewess, 
by  Ijehman  ;  a  prettily-finii^ed  Posada 
Aragoness,  hj  the  French  living  painter, 
A.  Leleuz,  etc  eta  The  oranges  are 
delicious,  and  yield  a  yearly  income  of 
£500.  For  admittance^  <^PFly»  during 
the  absence  of  the  duques,  to  the  in- 
tendente  with  card. 

Town  Hall  (Cams  OomidoHalit  atut 
OapUularea), — ^A  very  fine  example  of 
the  plateresque.  The  building  was 
commenced  about  the  beginning  of 
Idth  century,  and  finished  1666.  The 
upper  and  lower  galleries,  with  arches 
and  columnl^  and  the.  three  diflenmt 
fronts  or  fii9ades  at  right  an^es,  date^ 
the  former  from  Philip  IL,  and  the 
latter,  which  has  still  a  purer  plater- 
esque style  about  it,  from  Charles  Y. 
The  oentral  facade  ia  the  prindpaL 
Over  the  balcony  are  the  statues  of 
Son  Fernando  and  Saints.  The  facade 
to  the  left  is  unfinished.  That  to  the 
right,  towards  Plaza  de  San  Fran- 
cisco, iB  the  best,  though  not  finished' 
also.  The  great  characteristio  about 
this  most  elegant  Renaisssnce  palace 
lies  in  the  rich  ornamentation  of 
medallions,  pilasters,  archivanlts, 
friezes,  so  detailed  and  so  delicately 
chiselled  as  it  were.  They  are  as- 
cribed to  Berruguete  the  elder.  In 
the  interior  the  Sala  Capitular,  bi^ 
and  alta,  the  staircase  and  hall,  are  all 
in  good  style.  Observe  their  arteso- 
nado  ceilings,  the  genii,  grifllns,  ser- 
pents, etc,  sculptured  in  the  staircsae, 
and  its  elegtnt  plateresque  boveda. 
The  archives  contain  some  documents 
relative  to  public  festivities,  historical 
ceremonies,  local  events,  etc 

The  BTnhange  {Lm^),  —  Merch- 
ants originally  had  a  portion  of  the 
Alcazar  expressly  allotted  to  them, 
called  stUl  *  La  Contratacion  ;*  but  the 
scmi-Moro  Spaniard  man  of  business 
always  endeavours  to  live  in  the  streets, 


404 


SEVILLE. 


and  for  a  long  time  they  repaired,  in- 
stead, to  the  cool  patio  of  the  Oranges 
(cathedral). 

In  1572  the  Archbishop  of  Seville, 
Bojas,  asked  Philip  II.  to  do  away 
with  the  abuse,  and  to  bnild  a  special 
wlifice  like  the  Boyal  Exchange  at 
London,  which  had  been  recently 
erected  by  Qresham.  Herrera  made 
the  designs ;  and  the  Loig'a,  began  in 
1586^  was  finished  1598,  under  the 
immediate  orders  of  Joan  de  Mii\jares, 
after  the  classic  style  then  Tery  pre- 
Talent,  with  which  Minjares,  who  had 
worked  at  the  Escorial,  was  well 
acquainted.  The  building  forms  a 
perfect  square,  the  facades  are  high, 
denuded,  symmetrical,  with  Tusow 
pillars,  a  heayy  cornice,  ornamented 
with  the  usual  stone  ballsy  and  square 
windows  all  alike.  It  is  a  monotonous 
mass  of  brick  and  stone— rery  much 
admired  by  the  Sevillanos,  with  their 
usual  ponderadon;  but  cold,  heayy, 
and  of  the  barrack-manufactory  ap- 
pearance. The  interior  contains  a 
noble  patio  with  two  galleries.  The 
Tribunid  of  Commerce  and  Archiyes 
of  West  Indies  are  also  here.  From 
the  Terrado,  or  terraced  roof  of  the 
Loi^  the  riew  of  Serille  is  fine  and 
eztensiye. 

Arekbithop'i  AiZms.— Situated  E.  of 
Cathedral ;  close  to'  the  Giralda.  The 
former  palace  was  behind  the  Chapel 
de  la  Antigua  (cathedral),  and  close  to 
the  Loi^a.  The  present  one,  built  in 
17th  century,  is  Tery  spacious,  with 
laige  patios  and  rooms  hung  with 
brocade,  tapestry,  eta ;  but  the  style,  a 
bastard  plateresque,  bordering  on  the 
harroeo,  is  yery  inferior,  and  Uie  orna- 
mentation heayy  and  in  bad  taste. 

Th4  Tobaoeo  iTanif/bceory.— Fabrica 
de  Tkbaoos  is  a  little  out  of  the  way, 
and  deserres  a  Tint  The  building 
itself  is  Tery  eztensiTe^  with  twenty- 
ei^t  patios  and  numberieas  oflduas, 


gslleries,  etc  It  was  designed  by 
Yandembeer,  finished  in  1757,  and  cost 
about  £870,000.  The  style  is  not 
wanting  in  grandeur,  and  the  effect  is 
Tery  imposing.  Its  area  measures 
662  ft.  long  by  524  ft  wide,  and  60  ft. 
high.  The.  cigar  and  snuff  manufac- 
turing is  carried  on  on  a  Tery  latge 
scale;  4000  persons  and  aboTe  are 
usually  employed— mostly  women ; 
and  2,000,000  lbs.  are  produced  in 
the  year.  The  cigarreras  of  SeTille 
form  a  special  class,  like  the  grisettes 
of  BordtMiuz  and  Bayonne;  they  are 
generally  pretty— dress  for  the  bull- 
fight, and  undress  for  the  workshop- 
are  Tery  deaoaradas,  puff  a  puro,  etc 
The  polvo  de  SeviUa  and  tabaco  de 
fraile  is  a  particular  rappee  snuff,  not 
so  good  as  Uiat  of  La  Civette  at  Paris; 
but  ground  to  imperceptible  dust  and 
slightly  coloured  red  or  yellow  with  the 
Almagro  earth,  and  others.  Cigars 
here  are,  nevertheless,  very  inferior 
to  thooe  directly  imported  from  Ha- 
Tannah. 

The  Com  de  Moneda  (Mint).— It 
was  founded  in  1810.  The  building 
was  entirely  renewed  in  1704;  it  is 
classic,  heaTy,  and  indifferent  The 
Custom  House,  Audienda,  and  other 
public  gOTemment  establishments,  are 
modem  and  indifferent  Seville  is 
thriving,  and  several  manufactories  are 
being  set  up ;  amongst  them  is  La  Car- 
tiga  (potteries :  see  Bnvirone),  a  fkbrica 
de  refreaoos,  a  cannon  foundry,  etc 

ffoepiial  de  la  Sangre  (or  de  Uu  dneo 
Uagas,  of  the  five  bleeding  wounds  of 
our  Saviour). — It  was  erected  in  1546 
by  Oainia  and  Heman  Ruis,  and  its 
architectural  merit  is  great  It  belongs 
to  the  classical  style,  and  the  soutii 
facade  (the  principal  one)  is  some  600 
ft  long.  The  portal  is  very  fine  and 
the  patio  excellent  The  chapel  in  the 
centre  has  the  shape  of  a  Li^n  cross^ 
and  is  decorsted  with  good  allegorical 


SSVILLB — ^THB  ALOAZAB. 


405 


medallions  hj  Pedro  Machnca.  The 
ratabb  of  the  hi^  altar  dates  1600, 
and  was  designed  hj  Maeda ;  the  pic- 
tures in  it  by  Alonso  Yasqnes  have  been 
retouched.  The  Zorbanns  here  are 
second-rate  ;  observe,  nevertheless,  his 
Cradfixion  and  Magdalen. 

The  Aloasar,  often  enlarged  and 
added  to,  is  a  portion  of  the  former 
Moorish  palace  erected  when  ScTille 
became  an  independent  kingdom,  and 
of  which  the  Salon  de  Embigadores, 
although  subsequently  modified,  is  an 
example.  The  style  adopted  was  the 
purely  Moorish,  which,  under  the  Almo- 
hades,  was  preserved  in  this  haU  ;  the 
present  beautiful  horseshoe  arch  at  its 
entrance  by  the  principal  patio  was 
added  by  them.  These  works  were 
commenoed  in  1181,  by  the  Toledan 
architect  JalubL  Of  the  primitive 
Moorish  period  is  also  the  ultra  semi- 
circular arched  hall  of  Embigadores 
and  its  doors,  portion  of  the  narrow 
staircase  leading  from  the  patio  to 
the  upper  gallery  and  issuing  dose 
to  the  choir  of  the  chapel,  and  the 
three  arches  supported  by  capitals  in  a 
room  dose  to  that  of  El  Prfndpe. 
The  extent  of  this  group  of  palaces 
(' Alcaxares'  on  the  Moorish  inscriptions 
of  the  fitfade)  was  formerly  greater 
than  now.  It  then  formed  a  regular 
triangle.  The  present  Puerta  de  Jeres 
was  the  prindpal  entrance ;  it  was  sur> 
rounded  by  thick  walls  with  towers,  of 
which  portions  only  remain,  and  of 
which  the  Torre  dd  Oro  formed  one  of 
the  defences  by  the  river-side  (the  wall 
joining  the  Alcasar  to  the  latter  tower 
was  demolished  in  1821).  St  Ferdi- 
nand lodged  in  it  when  he  captured 
Seville,  and  the  Infantes  Don  Alfonso 
and  de  Molina  lived  in  the  Torre  de  Oro 
and  Torre  de  Plata.  DonPedrod  Oud 
embdliahed  it  and  rebuilt  whole  por- 
tions of  it ;  Juan  IL  repaired  the  Hall 
of  Ambassadors;  the  CathoUo  Idogi 


built  a  diapel ;  and  Charles  Y.  added 
several  rooms,  galleries,  and  the  present 
gardens ;  Philip  IIL  made  the  apeadero; 
Philip  y.  the  armeria,  etc.  Pedro  d 
Crud  began  the  rebuilding  of  it  in 
1358,  and  it  was  finished  in  1864  by 
architects  brought  tnm  Qranada,  and 
the  Mud^ar  style  was  then  adopted. 
There  were  several  entrances,  but  the 
two  prindpal  ones  are  those  to  the  K. 
that  lead  to  the  Patios  de  las  Banderas, 
and  de  la  Monteria.  foHode  Uu  Bern- 
deroi. — Over  the  entrance  door  on  the 
left  is  a  small  retablo,  with  a  Conoep- 
don  and  Saints.  Thii  open  court,  which 
derives  its  name  because  the  colours 
are  hoisted  here  when  the  king  reddes, 
is  very  large,  and  is  formed  by  several 
indifferent  private  houses,  the  last  to 
the  left  being  that  inhabited  by  the  sub- 
governor  of  the  Alcaiar,  El  Teniente  de 
Alcdde,  to  whom  apply  for  permisdon 
to  vidt  the  palace  and  gardens.  A  gd- 
lery  or  portico,  supported  by  odumns, 
and  buUt  by  Philip  IIL,  called  El  A- 
peadero  (the  landing-place),  is  now 
traversed,  and  the  Patio  de  la  Monteria 
—so  cdled  because  round  it  were  lodged 
the  king's  body-guard,  the  Mcmterosde 
EspiAosa— is  reached,  and  then  we  enter 
into  the  larger  one  where  the  prindpal 
facade  of  the  palaceis  placed.  At  one 
extremity  is  Uie  Puerta  dd  Leon,  erect- 
ed 1640,  so  called  from  the  lion  painted 
over  it,  with  a  lance  and  a  cross^  and 
the  motto^  'Ad  Utmmque.'  In  a 
comer  of  the  Patio  de  las  Bandena,  the 
king  Don  Pedro  d  Crad,  who  sought 
to  h9  styled  d  Justidero,  held  his  tri- 
bnnd,  seated  on  a  stone-wrou^t  thronei 
Thii  custom,  adopted  by  that  ardent 
admirer  of  the  Moors,  whose  sovereigns 
dways  followed  it,  waa  continued  by 
his  successors  Juan  L  and  Henrique  IIL 
As  to  the  equity  shown  in  these  publio 
andisnoes  towvds  the  snl^iects  who 
came  to  complain  of  grievances,  the 
'  Bimado  da  Pdaeio^ '  ascribed  to  Lopss 


406 


SEVILLB — ^THB  ALCAZAR. 


de  AyalA  (Ma  at  Library  of  El  Escorial; 
tee  Madrazo'8  'SeviUe^'iA  the  <Coa 
de  Recnerdoa  y  Bellezas,*  eta)  learesno 
doubt  The  Tanal  oomplajjis  of  not 
having  receiTed  his  military  pay,  of 
having  had  to  sell  his  horses  and  pawn 
his  arms ;  on  Which  the  king  tarns  his 
back  and  orders  his  supper,  and  the  end 
of  it  is  'Lerantome  may  triste  con  boca 
muy  amarga.*  In  the  SaU  de  Jastioia, 
which  is  one  of  the  rooms  of  the  original 
palace^  the  Alcaldes  held  their  tribunal 
The  grand /ifmii  glitters  with  gold  and 
Tiyid  colours,  the  pillarets  are  all  of 
precious  marbles.  Obsenre  the  lions  and 
castles  on  the  interlaced  archwork  oyer 
the  door.  The  square  cupola  of  the 
Sala  del  Prfndpe  overhangs  the  fa^e, 
decorated  with  diminutive  archlets  and 
asul^o  work,  finishing  in  a  point  and 
crowned  wiUi  a  spear,  with  globes  all 
got  TheatyleofthisfafadeisAlham- 
braic  and  a  magnificent  example  of  the 
purest  Almohade  period.  It  was  cruelly 
whitewashed  in  1818,  with  the  rest  of 
the  buildings,  but  the  whitewash  was 
taken  off,  and  all  the  Alcaxar  repaired 
recently  by  Mr.  Becquer  and  Colonel 
Botalde,  at  the  expense  of  the  Duo  de 
Montpensier,  and  at  the  cost  of  nearly 
£10,000.  Tlie  repairs  have  been  done 
with  little  taste,  in  a  paltry  manner, 
and  very  awkwardly  executed.  The 
gilding  and  painting  are  disgraceftJ,  and 
many  of  the  asulejos  are  merely  painted 
walls  imitating  them,  and  this  in  acity 
where  manufactories  of  them  abound. 
The  Duke  of  Montpensisr  lived  here 
some  time  after  his  marriage,  and  the 
queen,  on  her  visit  to  the  south,  had 
some  apartments  prepared,  and  held  a 
lev^  in  the  Hall  of  Ambassadors^  She 
left  to  the  poor  of  Seville  royal  alms 
amounting  to  £11,000  (her  journey  to 
Andalnsia  cost  her  privy  puie  upwards 
of  £250,000!)  On  the  fafade  is  an  in- 
seripdon  in  Gothic  characters  bearing 
the  date  (1894)  of  the  rebuflding  of  the 


Alcazar  under  Don  Pedro.  The  entrsnce, 
through  paltry  corridors,  \b  a  modem 
idea,  and  a  very  poor  one,  blocking  up, 
by  means  of  a  wall,  the  view  of  the 
Patio  de  lot  JDoneeUoi,  This  magnificent 
court  is  surrounded  by  fifty-two  marble 
columns,  of  which  forty  are  in  pairs,  an 
exceptional  feature  in  Moorish  archi- 
tecture, of  which  the  Court  of  Lions  in 
the  Alhambra  is  another  example.  Wliy 
it  is  called  '  de  las  Doncellas '  is  net 
knoim ;  some  have  said,  erroneously, 
that  it  was  derived  from  the  tribute  of 
the  hundred  maidens,  imposed  by  Man- 
regato,  and  paid  to  the  khalif  of  Cor- 
dova. The  very  fact  destroys  the  asser- 
tion, for  the  capital  of  the  Andalusian 
khslifate  was  Cordova,  and  Seville  had 
no  palace  till  the  11th  century ;  the  one 
in  which  Abdul-Azis  lived  bdng  sup* 
poeed  to  have  been  situated  on  the  Prado 
de  Sta.  Justa,  on  tlie  site  of  the  church 
of  Stas.  Justa  y  Rufina,  at  the  door  of 
which  he  erected  a  mosque,  where  he 
died  (see  Madrazo,  ut  iupra,  fh>m  trans- 
lation of  the  Arab  historian,  Ben  Alcu* 
teyya,  by  Sr.  Oayangos).  This  court 
dates  of  14th  oentuiy,  as  may  be  seen 
by  the  Mudejar  ornamentation  of  its 
cabinets  {aloharias).  This  squsre  haU 
ii  most  elegant)  and  a  fine  specimen  of 
the  Alhambrio  style.  The  azulejos, 
doors,  the  truly-termed  celosias  (esto, 
jealousy),  so  minutely  worked,  are  very 
Moorish.  That  thii  court  was  relatively 
modernised  in  1669  is  evidenced  by  the 
trophies  and  escatcheons  of  Don  Pedro, 
the  arms  of  the  Catholic  kings,  the 
pillars  of  Hercules,  and  the  proud  motto 
<plus  ultra'  invented  by  Charles  Y.'s 
doctor,  Luis  Marliano,  and  so  true  after 
Columbus  going  beyond  and  thus  ren- 
dering vain  Heroules',  that  is,  the  Phoe- 
nicians' goal  of  the  world.  All  the 
upper  portion  is  Ionic,  and  designed  by 
Luis  de  Yega,  in  the  bramantesque 
gusto,  for  the  marriage  of  Charies  Y. 
with  Isabella  of  Portugal 


8SVILLB — ^THB  ATX3AZAK. 


407 


Solan  tU  Smbc^adores. — ^Though  In- 
ferior to  the  AlhAmbra  Hall  of  Ambes- 
iftdori^  it  is  a  chorions  ealon,  aqu^  in 
shape,  with  four  restilmles,  oommnni- 
eating  by  three  most  elegant  arches  of 
the  purest  Arab  style.  The  W.  Testi- 
bnle  is  the  largest,  and  its  entrance  door 
to  the  salon  is  yery  richly  deoorated 
with  profose  omamentationa^  of  which 
some  details^  sach  as  birds,  etc,  reveal 
the  Mndejar  inspiration.  The  capitals 
are  of  different  styles  of  the  Mo<niBh ; 
there  is  an  harmonions  mixture  of  the 
Berber,  Arabic,  Mod^ar,  Gothic,  and 
even  Revival  styles,  of  great  and  good 
effect  The  media  naraiga,  or  cupola, 
ii  of  admirable  ahape  and  work,  and  was 
repaired  and  embellished  under  Juan  II. 
by  Diego  Ruis  in  1427.  The  ogival 
upper  portion,  probably  done  under  the 
Catholic  kings,  has  the  trefoil  ornament 
and  the  fleur  de  lys.  The  series  of  por- 
traits of  the  kings  of  Spain,  from  Chin- 
dasvinthus  to  Philip  III.,  was  begun 
under  the  Catholic  kings,  and  finiJied 
with  the  latter.  In  thk  room  Charles 
y.  waa  married  to  Isabella  of  Portugal 
The  four  balconies,  effective  though  out 
of  keeping  with  the  rest,  were  added  by 
the  Austrian  sovereigns,  and  were  for- 
merly agimeces.  In  this  hall  it  waa  that 
Don  Pedro  received  the  suppliant  Bey 
Berm^o  (the  Bed  King,  the  Lagus  of 
Spanish  ballads  and  usurper  of  the 
throne  of  Ismael  IL  of  Granada),  who 
came  with  great  pomp^  a  guard  of  600 
Moors,  and  his  unparalleled  collection 
of  jewels;  upon  seeing  which  Don  Pedro, 
who  waa  a  great  amateur  of  gems,  iu- 
vitad  him  to  a  banquet,  and  treacher- 
ously sent  him  two  days  after  to  Tabla- 
da,  where  he  waa  made  a  target  for  the 
Spanish  kni^ts  and  their  kin|^  who^ 
according  to.  the  ballad — 


Tbobal 

El  prapio  COS  k  to 
Pardle  d«  ptttc  «■  puu, 
Loqpt  Anyuo 


D.  Pedro  obtained  possession  of  the 
jewels^  smongit  whidi  waa  the  largest 
ruby  in  the  world,  now  belon^ng 
to  the  Crown  of  Kngland,  and  given 
to  the  Black  Prince  hj  D.  Pedro  after 
the  battle  of  Kavarrete.  In  the  next 
room,  Jht^  cCi  la»  MuMeeoi^  Don  Pedro 
caused  his  brother  Don  Fadrique, 
who  had  been  invited  by  him  to 
come  and  see  the  tournaments,  to  bo 
murdered.  The  ballad  on  this  subject, 
found  in  Durin's  oollection,  is  very  cha- 
racteristic of  that  time,  from  which  it 
dates  (though  handled  and  remodelled 
in  the  16th  century),  and  b^gins^ 

Yo  AM  maba  dk  en  CoiaUm. 

The  event  took  place  Kay  19,  1858. 
As  for  the  stains  of  blood  remaining 
on  the  marble  pavement,  and  shown  to 
the  traveller  as  the  vestiges  of  that 
latter  crime,  theyuv  nothfiig  but  fer^ 
ruginous  spots,  like  those  liiown  ell 
over  the  world;  as,  for  instance,  the 
blood  of  Rizzio  at  Holyrood,  the  blood 
of  the  Abencerrages  at  the  Alhambra, 
and  the  like  at  the  Hague,  Bome,  etc 
The  name  of  Las  Muftecas  (the  pup- 
pets, dolls)  is  quite  modem,  and  the 
origin  ignored.  The  style  of  this  room 
ii  most  Alhambraic  The  capitals  of 
the  slender,  siry,  marble  pillars,  are 
very  pure,  said  by  some  to  bo  In  style 
similar  to  the  oldest  in  the  mosque  of 
Cordoba,  and  are  most  delicately  ahaped. 
Ita  walls,  double  galleries,  etc,  are 
hung  with  the  most  delioate  lacework 
Iq  stucco.  It  is  all  elegance,  orna- 
mentation, taste.  Around  the  two 
latter  halls  are  several  roomi^  begin- 
ning from  the  principal  lafade  to 
S.W.,  and  finishing  at  the  other  ex- 
tremity a&  of  the  Patio  de  Us  Don- 
ceHas,  and  where  the  chapel  is  which 
replaced  the  mysterious  rooms,  so  (kmed 
in  bdlads,  of  the  Caroool,  which  were 
the  private  apartments  of  the  &tr  and 
m-frited  Maria  da  PadOla.     AU  this 


408 


SSVILLB — ^THB  AL0A2AR. 


portion  wm  the  finest,  tnd  it  is  thought 
to  hare  constitated  the  lepenite  palitoe 
oaUed  <Del  Yeso'  (of  the  limeX  or 
'DdHierro.' 

Sola  dsl  Prineipe, — In  the  upper 
floor,  of  which  portions  were  entirely 
destroyed  by  fire  in  1762,  K.  of  the 
pelaoe,  and  looking  towards  the  prin- 
cipal Citfade.  The  decoration  of  this 
beautiliil  room  is  also  Qranadine,  and 
the  columns  are  said  to  haye  been 
brou^t  from  the  Palado  Real  of  Va- 
lencia, when  D.  Pedro  of  Castile  de- 
feated D.  Pedro  of  Aragon. 

Oratorio, — Begun  by  the  Oatholic 
kings  in  1604.  It  is  only  16  ft.  long 
by  12  ft.  wide.  The  plateresque  azu- 
Icjos  are  the  finest  Christian  specimens 
of  this  sort  of  ornamentation  in  Anda- 
lusia. The  retablo  represents  the 
'YisiUtion,'  and  is  signed  by  the 
Italian  Kicolsso  Francesco ;  the  dra- 
peries and  drawing  good.  Obsenre  the 
Tato  Mota  of  the  Catholic  kings,  etc 
The  rooms  were  magnificently  deco- 
rated by  D.  Pedro  for  Maria  de  Padilla, 
and  subsequently  oonverted  into  dif- 
ferent uses,  one  of  them  being  the 
present  Oratorio.  There  was  and  ia 
stiU  a  narrow  mysterious  staircase 
leading  ftt>m  those  rooms  to  the  king's 
bedroom  (el  Dormitorio),  which  it 
ii  interesting  to  Tisit  for  its  many 
sssocistions  with  the  dramatic  life  of 
that  semi-Moorish  Spanish  Louis  XI. 
Here  it  was  also  where^  mad  with 
jealousy  and  spite,  he  stabbed  and 
murdered  Ruii  de  Vill^gas.  Obsenre 
dose  by,  over  the  door,  four  death's- 
heads,  and  over  another  door  a  figure  in 
stucoo  of  a  man  contemplating  another 
death's-head — all  in  remembrance  of 
some  judges,  whose  heads  fell  by  order 
of  Don  Pedro  because  they  had  cor- 
ruptly decided  a  suit  The  suite  of 
rooms  fadng  the  gardens  are  all  Moor- 
ish, and  most  elegant  The  upper 
•torey  was  modernised  and  enlarged  by 


Charles  V.,  the  architects  being  Luis 
snd  Oasper  de  Y^ga,  Hernandez,  etc. 

BafUn  de  fodaia, —Them  baths, 
placed  under  that  fiiTourite's  rooms 
(they  were  formerly  use4  by  the  Sul- 
tanas), were  not  formerly  enclosed  by 
thick  walls,  but  by  oranges  and  citrons ; 
the  works  which  haye  disfigured  them 
were  raised,  some  in  Charies  Y.'s  time, 
and  others  after  the  earthquake  in 
1766.  Tradition  has  it  that  when  la 
PadiUa  bathed,  Don  Pedro  and  the 
gentlemen  of  his  court  used  to  be  ptt" 
sent,  and  that  the  height  of  gallantry 
was  for  them  to  drink  with  apparent 
delight  of  that  water.  As  on  a  certain 
occasion,  one  of  the  oourtiers  present 
refused  to  drink  of  it,  Don  Pedro  en- 
quired the  reason,  to  which  he  gare 
this  answer :  '  Para  eritar,  Se&or,  que 
si  encuentro  agradable  la  salsa,  yaya 
d  antojarseme  la  perdis  I'  Cloee  to  the 
Bafios,  now  in  a  subterraneous,  sombre 
gallery,  are  the  gardens,  designed  in  the 
Cinqueoento  taste,  with  pond%  box, 
etc.  The  outside  of  the  Alcaiar  is  in 
the  Yignolesque  gusto,  forming  galleries 
with  almohadillado  walls,  masdye  and 
tasteless. 

Prirato  Buildings. — Com  do  Pikh 
too,  situated  in  the  plaza  of  the  same 
name,  and  so  called  because  built  In 
imitation  of  Pontius  Pilate's  house  at 
Jerusalem.  It  belongs  to  the  Duke  of 
Medina  Celi,  who  seldom  or  neyer  eomes 
here,  and  is  inhabited  by  his  admnU' 
ttrator,  who  has  yery  zealously  improyed 
and  repaired  this,  one  of  the  most  hand- 
some and  artistic  houses  that  any  noble- 
man could  desire.  It  was  begun  by  the 
Addantado,  Per  Enriques  and  his 
wife,  oontinued  by  their  son  Don 
Fadrique,  first  Marqu^  of  Tarifa,  on 
his  return  from  the  Holy  Luid  (1620), 
finished  by  the  Don  Per  Aftm  de  Ri* 
bera,  first  Duke  of  Alcala,  their  de- 
scendant»  and  ancestor  of  the  preasnt 


SEVILLE — ^PRIVATE  BUILDINaS. 


409 


Duke  de  Medina  Celi/who  embelliahed 
the  ptkoe  with  the  stataes  and  piotnres 
helm>tight  from  Napleewhen  he  was 
Viceroy,  and  those  given  to  him  hj 
Pope  Pins  Y.  For  the  third  Dnke, 
Pacheco  painted  the  fresco  represent- 
ing the  story  of  DsBdalus  and  learns, 
now  in  the  Gontadnria.  The  general 
style  of  the  house  and  its  distribution 
is  that  of  the  semi-oriental  period  of 
the  16th  century,  and  beginning  of  the 
16th.  The  Mud^ar  character  of  its 
Saracenic  decoration  is  combined  here 
and  there  with  the  plateresque  and 
Gothic  of  the  third  period.  It  became 
a  sort  of  museum  and  studio  frequented 
by  all  the  literati,  artists^  and  amateurs 
of  that  time,  who  assembled  there  to 
paint  and  discuss  art  questions  around 
the  third  Duke  of  Alcala,  the  Mec«- 
nas  of  that  period,  and  rival  of  the 
Ononi  and  Oolonnas  of  Italy.  Oes- 
pedes,  the  Herreras,  G<Sngora,  Jauregni, 
Rioja,  Cervantes,  etc. ;  of  these  ingenios 
or  beaux  eaprUa  (for  painters  then 
were  also  men  of  letters,  and  these,  in 
turn,  often  cultivated  art)  Pacheco 
wrote  the  lives,  with  their  portraits 
painted  by  him  also.  The  original 
less,  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  curate 
of  Fuente  (a  hamlet  close  by),  and  dis- 
appeared. The  only  copy  extant  be- 
longs now  to  Sr.  D.  Jos^  Maria  Bueno, 
a  gentleman  of  Seville,  but  the  portraits 
are  lost  for  ever.  The  principal  patio  is 
exquisite,  and  formed  by  two  galleries 
resting  on  twenty-four  marble  columns. 
The  fountain  in  the  centre  is  ornamented 
with  dolphins,  and  crowned  with  a  head 
of  Janus.  The  walls  all  round,  and  to 
10  ft.  high,  are  lined  with  asul^os,  and 
over  them  may  be  seen  stucco  tracery 
of  great  variety  of  pattern,  and  only 
interrupted  by  niches  with  busts  oi 
Boman  Emperors ;  that  of  Charles  Y. 
is  over  the  entrance  door.  At  the  four 
angles  of  the  patio  are  eolowal  statues 
of  goddesses    Psllai^  0am,  etc— pre- 


sents from  Pius  Y.  The  pavement  is 
of  marble.  Around  this  noble  patio— a 
magnificent  example  of  the  Mud^ar 
Saracenic  art  at  its  dedino—are  sevwal 
rooms^  sll  large,  and  many  veiy  beauti- 
M.  To  the  right  .is  the  PreUorium  of 
Pilate,  the  walls  of  which  are  covered 
with  asulq'os  and  arabesques.  On  its 
very  ancient  doon  is  inscribed  the 
Credo,  in  Gothic  letters.  To  K.  and 
facing  the  entrance  ia  an  exquisite 
Cdla  or  Chapel  with  a  vestibule,  the 
rich  ornamentation  of  which  is  a  most 
happy  combination  of  the  ogival  and 
Moorish  styles.  Inside  is  a  column  or 
pfllar,  given  by  Pius  Y.,  and  made  in 
imitation  of  that  to  which  our  Saviour 
was  bound  to  be  scourged.  On  the 
sides  of  the  altar  are  indifferent  por- 
traits of  prelates  of  the  house  of  Al- 
cali.  The  vestibule  is  decorated  with 
admirably-executed  andcoloured  Triana 
azulejos ;  the  i^'aracss,  arrab4s  of  its 
agimeces,  etc,  are  all  very  fine  and 
delicately  wrought  The  ceiling  is 
plateresque.  T%e  Cella  is  most  ori- 
ental, and  the  roof  is  in  the  ogival  and 
Moorish  style  The  garden,  with  box, 
myrtle,  and  oranges,  once  a  delightful 
paradise,  is  much  neglected.  Thii 
oriental  palace  is  most  bewitching;  and 
worthy  of  its  Seftora,  the  Duchess  de 
Medina  Celi,  who  is  an  admirable  type 
of  the  beauty  and  grace  of  Andalusia, 
and  who  was  dressed  as  Ayeshi  (Boab- 
dil's  mother)  in  the  camparta  of  young 
noblemen  and  ladies  at  her  fancy  ball 
at  Madrid  (when  the  queen  dressed 
as  Isabella  Uie  Catholic),  who  repre- 
sented the  principal  personages  present 
at  the  surrender  of  Granada.  Their 
anoeston'  dress  appeared  too  large  for 
some,  but  fitting  others.  Hera  and  in 
sevend  rooms  lie,  somewhat  ne^ected, 
fragments  of  statues,  many  of  merit ;  a 
portion  of  the  best  has  been,  however, 
removed  to  the  Medina  Celi  Pslaoe  at 
Madrid.    Over  the  stairoaas  leading  to 


410 


SEVILLK— OIRALDA. 


the  upper  gallery  is  a  fine 
naranjti,  not  unlike  thftt  of  Selon  de 
Embigedoree,  at  the  Aloastr,  whoee 
general  style  hae  been  cloeely  imitated 
here.  The  staircase  is  admirable.  The 
rest  of  the  building  has  been  either 
added  or  modernised.  The  outside  is 
plain ;  OTer  the  portal  is  the  inscription : 
'Nisi  Dominus  ndifioarerit  domum,  in 
Tanum  laboraTemnt  qui  asdificant  earn  ; 
tub  umbra  alarum  tuamm  prot^  nos  ;' 
and  over  this  is  another  one  in  Spanish, 
giring  the  date  of  erection,  name  of 
founders,  and  the  three  crosses  of  Jem- 
salem,  the  arms  added  to  the  family 
escutdieon  after  one  of  the  founders' 
journey  to  Jerusalem,  and  the  words, 
*£n  4  de  Agosto  de  1519  entr6  en 
Hierusalem.'  The  Jasper  cross  on  the 
left  of  door  marked  the  beginning  of 
the  YiaCmcis  or  Calle  de  la  Amargura, 
with  its  fourteen  idaeionei,  which  ter- 
minated at  the  OruM  del  Campo, 

There  are  some  other  interesting 
prirate  houses :  Ocua  tU  ku  Oanuat, 
and  also  tU  lo$  Abodes,  in  Calle  de  los 
Abades  Ko.  9.  This  house  existed  in 
the  15th  century,  and  in  it  was  lodged 
the  Infante  D.  Fernando,  uncle  of 
Juan  II.,  in  1407.  It  had  been  bmlt,  and 
then  belonged  to  the  wealthy  Qenoese 
Pinelos ;  it  afterwards  passed  to  the 
chapter  of  the  cathedral,  and  was  inha- 
bited by  abbots^  whence  the  name^  de 
UeAhadee.  It  was  repaired  and  mo- 
dernised by  the  Pinelos  about  1588. 
The  style  is  the  Serillian  plateresque, 
not  quite  as  Italian  as  the  Aragonese 
platereeque  of  the  houses  at  Zaregota  ; 
but  its  characteristics  are  a  combi- 
nation of  the  Moorish,  Qothic,  and 
modem  Italian  ;originali^,  pictureaque- 
neai^  morement,  and  effect  Its  patio 
is,  perhaps,  the  only  originsl  feature 
that  has  been  pieseiyed  through  the 
many  repaiis  and  ignorant  handling  to 
whidi  it  has  been  subjected.  Obsenre 
the  alto-reliero  medallion^  its  adtant 


or  richly-ornamented  tabiqne-work,  the 
Tery  elegant,  high,  and  nairow  win- 
dows^ Pi'tly  agimes  and  partly  Gothic, 
with  a  plateresque  capital  on  its  istri- 
ated  Gothic  pillar,  etc.  The  house 
has  been  turned  into  a  Monte  de 
Piedad,eta 

House  of  the  Duke  of  Alba,  formerly 
called  de  loe  Finedat,  and  also  de  ku 
DuelUu,  It  contained  eleven  patios 
with  nine  fountain^  and  100  marble 
columns.  It  belonged  to  about  the 
same  period  and  style,  but  now  is  sll 
decay  and  ruin.  Lord  Holland  lodged 
here  during  his  stay  in  ScTille. 

Oata  de  BusUm  Tavern  bebngs  now 
to  the  Marqu4s  del  Moecoso.  Those 
who  hare  read  Lope  de  Vega's  'Es- 
trella  de  Serilla '  (turned  into  an  opera 
by  Balfe)  will  Tisit  this  house,  howerer 
modernised  now,  and  look  for  the  garden 
door  by  which  King  Sancho  el  BraTO 
used  to  come  in  on  his  nightly  Tisits  to 
the  *Fair  Star  of  ScTille.'  In  the 
calle  Botica  del  Agua  No.  14  is  the 
Caea  (flAO,  now  belonging  to  Sr. 
Doming  father-in-law  to  Prince  d'An- 
glona.  It  is  one  of  the  finest  specimens 
of  Moorish  houses,  and  retains  much  of 
the  stucco-work,  notwithstanding  white* 
wash  and  neglect  Obsenre  the  exqui- 
site windows  with  their  open  work,  and 
the  mudejar  ornamentation. 

GHralda  (fh>m  Qirwr  to  rerolre ; 
ffiroueiUt  the  weathercock),  is  a  Testige 
of  the  mosque  formerly  occupying  the 
site  of  the  cathedraL  It  was  buflt  in 
1196  by  Abn  Jusuf  Jacnb  to  senre  as 
the  Muessin  tower  for  the  mosque 
erected  by  his  father.  Similar  towers 
may  be  seen  at  Rab4t,  the  Tower  of 
Hassbi  180  ft  high,  at  Morocco  ;  the 
Tower  of  the  Kootsabea  mosque  at 
Morocco  (built  the  same  year  as  the 
Giralda) ;  the  beUHes  of  Tbrallo^  St 
Mark'^  yenio^  etc 


SEYILLB— OIBALDA. 


411 


Heiglit  Yr.whea 
ft.        bunt. 

Tow  Ol  KoOtMlbCSy  MOfOOOO     ~*  S196 

TowerofHttmnatlUb)^  .  s8o  — 

Tower  of  Sc  Mark,  VciuM  •  350  1S4S 

Tower  of  Anoelli,  Bologaa  •  37s  1109 

TowerofGiraldatSevilk  .  .  350  1196 

Aooordiiig  to  Batliaier  ('Dn  Style 
Aimbe  en  Eepagne*)  and  oUien,  theee 
belfriee  bed  ell  their  standard  type  in 
Oonatantinople.  The  lower  portion  ia 
of  atone,  the  fonndationa  deep  and 
laij^  The  walla  of  the  baae  are  9  ft 
thick.  The  centre  is  occupied  by  a 
aort  of  azleor  innerwall,  which  atrength- 
ena  the  edifice  and  aupporta  thirty- 
fire  landing-places  or  rampei^  boilt  on 
and  with  biicka,  wide,  and  ao  made 
that  one  could  aacend  easily  on  horse- 
back. It  ia  lifted  by  agimei  windowa 
of  different  styles^  and  richly  decorated 
with  ijaracaomamentationa  (aunk  pat- 
tema).  From  the  platform  crowning 
the  Qiralda,  which,  under  the  Moor, 
had  only  150  ft  height,  roee  a  apire 
with  four  enonnoua  gilt  ballsy  which 
oould  be  aeen  ahining  at  8  leagnea  dia- 
tanoe^  and  were  the  work  of  a  Moor 
natire  from  Sicfly,  and  called  Abn-el- 
Layth.  They  were  thrown  down  and 
dertroyed  during  an  earthquake  in 
1S05.  In  166S  the  architect  Heman 
Ruis  raiaed  it  100  ft.  higher.  The 
upper  niches  were  painted  in  freaoo 
by  Loia  de  Yaiga^  1688-68 ;  but  the 
sun,  weather,  and  neglect  haye  almoat 
eflaoed  the  paintings.  The  style 
adopted  when  theae  repairs  took  place 
waa  the  platereaque,  and  the  effect  is 
generally  considered  aa  heightened. 
The  pinnaele  ia  crowned  with  a  female 
figure  in  brotaze,  called  '  el  GirandiUo,* 
repreaenting  Faith,  rery  well  executed 
by  Bart  Morel,  1668,  14  ft.  hi(^  and 
thouj^  weighing  2800  Iba.  it  tuma 
moateaafly.  The  preeent  clock  dates 
1764,  and  replaced  a  fonner  one,  which 
waa  the  first  erer  seen  in  Spain~1400. 
Tbe  beDs  are  Teiy  laige,  and  hare  dif- 


ferent namea.  The  aacent  of  the  tower, 
moat  easy  to  perform,  must  not  be 
omitted,  aa  the  Tiew  fh>m  the  anmmit 
ii  moat  c^orions^  and  apreada  oTer 
Serille,  the  Guadalquivir,  and  enTirona. 
Around  the  four  fS^ea  of  the  friese  are 
the  word%  '  Tunia.  Fortinima.  Komen. 
Domini'  Thia  tower  waa  uaed  to  aum- 
mon  from  ita  aummit  the  laithftil  to 
prayer.  .Beaide%  'liere  were  aereral 
minor  minareta,  many  of  which  haye 
been  modemiaed ;  the  principal  extant, 
and  that  belonged  to  moaquea,  are 
Sta.  Marina,  San  Marooa,  Sta.  Gatilina, 
etc. 

Tower  of  Oold.  —  The  Torre  del 
Oro  on  the  Quadalquiyir,  waa  the  river 
key  of  the  Alcalsarea.  It  conatituted  a 
small  fortress,  an  outwork  of  the  general 
line  of  fortifications,  and  from  ita  ter^ 
race,  to  which  the  present  cupola  waa 
added  aubaequently,  the.  enrirona  and 
river  could  be  watched.  Ita  import- 
ance in  the  eyea  of  the  Moors  waa 
great,  aa  it  defended  alM  the  paaa  from 
tiie  Tablada  to  the  ArenaL  Ita  name  ia 
derived  fttjm  the  apecial  orange  colour- 
ing and  placing  of  ita  fonner  asul^oe, 
which  gave  it  the  appearance  of  a 
braaen  or  gilt  tower,  aa  that  of  fUUtt 
(near  the  Mint)  owed  its  name  to  a 
aimilar  process.  Some  say  it  waa  in  the 
former  that  the  Almohadea  kiept  their 
treaaure— whence  ita  name,  Bargu-d- 
dahab  (Tower  of  Gold).  It  waa  con- 
verted by  Don  Pedro  into  a  prison  for 
diigraced  Ikvouritea  of  the  two  aezea. 
The  aentiy-boz  added  recently  is  moat. 
dkoeant€,  Don  Pedro  alM  kept  his 
treasures  here,  under  the  care  of  Samuel 
Levi,  hia  Jewish  treasurer  and  banker. 
In  Columbua'a  time  it  is  aaid  to  have 
been  the  dep6t  of  the  gold  brought  by 
him  and  the  fieet  from  the  New  World, 
and  it  haa  been  uaed  also  aa  a  light- 
houae.  At  the  present  time  the  Comui- 
dante  del  Puerto  and  the  Guadalquivir 
Steam  Company  have  their  offiosa  here 


412 


SEVILLB — SQUABB8 — STREETS. 


The  gold  ind  tXiret  from  the  New 
World,  whether  priyiite  or  pablic,  went 
to,  and  were  registered  and  kept  in,  the 
Caaa  de  la  Oontratacion,  in  the  Alcazar 
there.  The  treasnre  here  deposited 
often  exceeded  8,000,000  dacats,  which 
the  kings  of  Spain,  Charles  Y.  and 
Philip  IL,  nerer  scrupled  to  take  to 
pay  Uieir  expensive  wars,  and  seldom 
or  neyer  reimbursed;  and  when  the 
priyate  money  was  prudently  with- 
drawn, their  spite  knew  no  bounds,  and 
the  employ^  of  that  curious  bank  were 
ssTerely  chastised.  For  a  description 
of  the  Casade  Contratacion,  see  'Norte 
de  la  Contratacion  de  las  Indias  Occi- 
dentales,'  etc,  by  D.  J.  Deveita  linage, 
1  ToL  4to ;  Seville,  1772  ;  'RecopiU- 
cion  de  las  Leyes  de  los  Reynos  de  las 
Indies,'  4  vols.  4to,  1681 ;  Madrid ; 
and  Retire^  'Estanda  y  Muerte  del 
Emperador  Carloe  Y.,'  etc.,  by  D.  Tomis 
Gonzales,  MS.,  vol  L,  pp.  187, 188,  etc 
Squaraa,  aatea.  Streets,  Publlo 
Konuments,  eio.  —  The  principal 
squares  at  Seville  are  Fkua  dd  Duque, 
so  called  from  the  house  of  the  Duke 
of  Medina-Sidonia  which  ii  situated 
here.  It  is  lai^  and  planted  with  trees. 
Haaa  San  Franei$eo,  at  the  extremity 
of  Calle  de  las  Sierpes.  It  has  pre- 
served some  cofatir  2ooaZ<  of  former  days ; 
the  fountain  in  the  middle  is  indifferent 
It  has  beeiCthe  site  of  autot  da/i^  tour- 
naments, executions,  religious  dramas, 
and  other  public  jollifications  of  bygone 
times.  Pian  del  Trim^  with  ito 
orange-trees,  and  with  the  best  bufld- 
ings  in  the  town— the  cathedral,  alcan^, 
and  Loivja.  The  Fkua  Ifuiva  is  a 
Frenchified  square,  out  of  place  in  this 
climate,  and  before  which  the  wise  and 
prudent  Moor  would  shrug  hisshoulders, 
for  it  is  no  Joke  to  cross  it  in  June  or 
July ;  his  &vourite  nairow  lanes  and 
arcades  were  far  more  picturesque,  cool, 
sad  appropriate  than  the  wide,  treeless 
•pace.   Of  the  111  plazas  that  Sevillanos 


talk  of^  there  are  only  the  former  thai 
really  deserve  the  name. 

Streets, — ^The  most  curious,  gay,  and 
fashionable  is  the  Calle  de  las  Sierpes^ 
where  the  best  shops  may  be  found. 
The  Calle  de  Genoa  and  del  Duque  de 
Tetuan  are  lined  with  booksellers' shops. 
The  Calle  de  Francos  is  a  good  street 
for  silk  shops,  linen,  lace,  etc 

The  Cfatee  are  numerous,  and  many 
date  from  the  Moors,  but,  owing  to 
several  rettauradanee,  they  no  longer 
retain  their  former  style  and  character. 
That  of  Sam  Fenumdo  is  Gneco-Roman, 
and  built  1760.  After  the  surrender  of 
Seville,  St  Ferdinand  entered  by  the 
Puerta  Seal  The  Puerta  de  Oarmcna 
was  repaired  and  modernised  in  1678. 
The  Puerta  de  la  Oame  is  quite  modem, 
but  was  formerly  the  Bib-Ahoar  of  the 
Moor.  The  Market-place  is  of  no  in- 
terest The  Alameda  de  Hercules, 
N.W.  of  the  city,  is  the  oldest  paseo 
here,  and  is  formed  by  five  rows  of  trees. 
It  Ib  some  1500  ft.  long.  The  columns 
at  the  entrance  are  very  old,  and 
crowned  by  statues  of  Hercules  (the 
legendary  founder  of  Seville)  and  Julius 
Cesar  ;  as  over  the  Puerta  de  la  Carney 
the  history  of  Seville  is  thus  summed 
up  in  an  inscription  : — 


Coadit  AlddM    wovabit  JoUta 
RctitMit  Chrkto  Ftroandus  unrat  beros. 

iVw^Mte.~Cloee  to  San  Leandro^ 
and  in  a  house  belonging  still  to  the 
nuns  of  that  convent,  lived  Don  Juan 
Tenorio  (the  Don  Juan  of  Byron),  Tirso 
de  Molina,  Moli^re,  Zorflla,  etc  The 
barber-shop  of  Tigeio,  *  il  Barbiere  4i 
Siviglia,'  is  said  to  be  Kc  15,  Just  be- 
yond t^ePUsadeStcTomas.  Murillo'e 
house  is  in  the  old  Juderia,  or  Jews* 
quarter,  full  still  of  picturesque  houses. 
It  is  dose  to  the  dty  wall,  the  last  to 
the  right  in  a  small  plaza  at  the  end  of 
the  C^e  de  Lope  de  Rueda,  Plaza  de 
Alfaro ;  and  it  reoently  became  the  pro- 


SXVILLB* 


413 


pertj  of  Dean  Gepera.  Mnrfllo  died 
here  April  8,  1682.  In  the  gtrden  are 
some  Italian  frescoee,  a  fountain,  etc. 

The  InquisUian  was  established  first 
in  the  Moorish  Castle,  which  wassitoated 
to  the  light  on  crossing  to  Triana,  then 
removed  to  OaUe  San  Marcos^  and 
finally  to  the  Alameda  Yi^ja. 

The  Quemadero,  or  boming-place  of 
this  dreaded  and  almost  nniversally 
adopted  tribunal,  was  on  the  plsln  out- 
side the  town,  called  Prado  de  San 
Sebastian.  Near  the  Puerta  del  Sol, 
and  on  the  site  now  ooeupied  bj  the 
TrinitarioB  Dcscalzos,  stood  the  palace 
of  DicgenianaSf  where  the  martyrs 
Stas.  Justa  and  Bufina  were  put  to 
death. 

rriaiMk— This  quarter,  inhabited  by 
the  lower  classes,  was  the  Moorish 
TarayanUi  (from  Tnjana,  on  account 
of  the  Emperor  Tnjan,  who  was  bom 
not  far  from  this  at  Italica).  Here  may 
be  seen  still  all  the  piotuiwqueness  of 
Andalusian  types,  tiie  gipsies,  bull- 
fighters, etc  The  Macaiena  is  the  re- 
f^  of  poverty  and  filth,  a  St  Giles's ; 
curious,  neverthelees,  for  Spain  is  '  la 
patrie  des  haillons  pittoresques.* 

PrivaU  OoUedum  qfFamUngs^  Books, 
ite, — At  Seville  every  one  pretends  to 
possess  several  MuriUos,  Zurbarans, 
etc,  and  the  J/eionadoi  IngU$$t  are 
often  an  easy  prey.  Beware,  therefore, 
of  hasty  purchases ;  for,  however  cheap, 
daubs  are  always  too  dear.  A  very 
witty  French  writer,  Th^hile  Gau- 
thier,  says,  'Llionneur  etausd  la  plaie 
de  S^Sville,  c*estMurillo.  Lemoindre 
bourgeois,  le  plus  mince  abb^  possMe 
Ml  moins  trois  cents  Murillo  du  meilleur 
temps.  A  chaque  coin  de  rue  on  se 
heurte  k  Tangle  d'un  cadre,  c'est  un 
Muiillo  de  trente  francs,  qu'un  Anglais 
vient  toiigours  d'acheter  trente  mille 
francs  I '  There  are,  nevertheless,  seve- 
ral fine  collections,  such  as  that  of  Sefior 
D.  Pedro  Garcia  Leanis ;  that  of  the 


ktrederoi  of  D.  Manuel  l/>pes  Cepero 
where  there  are  many  still  of  those  col- 
lected by  that  most  respectable  and  in> 
teUigent  amateur  El  Doom  Coporo,  Sr. 
Bomero  Balmaseda,  Saens,  and  M.  Lar- 
razabal  and  Almedo,  who  possess  a  few 
of  the  many  formerly  belonging  to  Mr. 
J.  Williams.  One  of  the  finest  private 
libraries  is  that  belonging  to  D.  Jos^ 
Maria  deAlava,  rich  in  MSS.,  ancient 
editions  of  Spanish  literature,  and  books 
relative  to  the  history  of  Spain. 

Theatres,  ProminadUt  iU, — The 
TecUro  do  San  Fomomdo  is  a  fine  build- 
ing, erected  in  1847  by  a  French 
architect,  and  capable  of  holding  2800 
spectators.  The  interior  is  veiy  well 
arranged,  and  the  oaXU  is  handsome. 
This  theatre  is  the  most  fashionable, 
and  the  opera  companies  are  generally 
good.  It  is  very  well  attended,  and, 
among  others^  by  the  Duchesse  de  Mont- 
pezisier. 

The  TtalroPriMeipal  dates  1884,  and 
is,  notwithstanding  itsname,  veiysecond 
rate.  The  rows  of  boxes  are  each  in  a 
diflerent  style.  The  Plasa  do  Toroo, 
bunt  1760,  with  a  fine  Cs^ade,  is  made 
of  stone,  and  the  diameter  of  the  arena 
is  246  ft ;  it  is  not  finished,  and  a 
breach  made  in  it  by  a  violent  storm  in 
1805,  by  allowing  the  Cathedral  and 
Giralda  to  be  seen  in  the  background, 
combines  to  form  a  singular  spectacle.* 
The  bull-fights  here  are  first-rate.  The 
day  before  the  fight  amateurs  can  go  to 
TabUda  and  see  the  gamado, 

Eoonolai  do  Bailoo. — These  pablio 
balls,  where  the  aics^iie^  moHam^  etc, 
are  danced  by  the  lower  classes,  must 
not  be  missed  by  the  traveller;  they 
offer  many  toMeaum  full  of  character. 
Old  Bailly,  at  the  Fonda  de  Paris, 
understands  how  to  get  up  a  Gitana 
dance  at  Triana  or  elsewhere,  and  the 
gipsies,  dressed  in  their  holiday  coe- 

•  See  Robertf*  beantiral  kadKape  in  '  Jep- 
niag's  Tjindeope  Aamia^'  i8jl 


414 


SEVILLE. 


tome,  are  foil  of  picturesque  and  pica- 
reaqne. 

Thit  moet  fashionable  paseo  is  that  of 
Cristina,  oi|  the  banks  of  the  rirer  and 
eloae  to  the  Palace  of  San  Telmo,  by 
which  ]aat  name  it  is  now  called.  The 
honn  are :  in  winter  from  8.80  to  6 
P.M.,  and  in  summer  from  6  to  8  p.m. 
The  plazas  del  Dnqne,  Nuera,  de  la 
Magdalena,  are  resorted  to  in  the  wann 
summer  eyenings.  The  Feria  of  Se- 
yille  and  Holy  Week  frmction%  to 
which  people  flock  ftt>m  all  parts  of  the 
world,  are,  «>f»  ponderacumf  weU  worth 
seeing. 

Poat-Offloo. — Close  to  Hdteli  de 
Madrid  and  Paris.  The  general  poet 
comes  in  at  5.80  A.M.  and  leaves  at 
7.80  P.M.  From  Gibraltar  arrives  at 
1  P.M.  and  leaves  4.80  A.M.  The  office 
for  delivery  of  posts  restante  letters 
and  papers  is  opened  from  8  to  12  A.M. 
and  from  2  to  4  p.m.  For  registering 
letters,  open  12  A. M.  to  4  p.m.  and 
8  A.M.  to  10  P.M.  There  are  two  de- 
liveries a-day,  one  at  8  A.M.  and  the 
second  at  2  p.m.  Several  letter-boxes 
in  the  town.  At  the  General  Post-Office 
letters  are  received  half-an-hour  before 
departure  of  mails.  For  America,  Au- 
stralia, etc.,  see  General  Information : 
Pui-Offle; 

Telegraph  Q^.— Opened  day  and 
night,  Calle  de  l^il4n,  Bdificio  de  San 
Pabia  For  tariff^  tee  General  Infor- 
mation :  Telegraph, 

Oab-Fares. — The  one-horse  broug- 
hams {berlinas)  are  the  only  cabs  A  la 
course,  price  6r. ;  the  cal^hes,  at 
Plaza  del  Buque,  Magdalene,  and 
stands,  are  all  by  the  hour.  First 
hour,-  lOr.  ;  2d  hr.,  8r.  ;  a  tariff. 
There  are  also  some  tolerable  cal^hes 
to  hire  at  OaUes  Vizcainos  No.  8 ; 
Tarlfik  No.  l;.Badigos  No.  1;  and 
Borceguineria. 

For  the  barrio  of  the  Hdtels  de  Paris 
and  Madrid,  called  de  la  MagdaUna: — 


Bythecoune*           Bydaj.  ByaW^t 

From  5  to  30  mmufct         •    tor.  S4r. 

Every  hour  within  die  dty .    i4r.  sgr. 

By  thehoor^ 

Ootttde  the  dty .       .       .    sgr.  jar. 

On  holidays  double  fare.  Night 
service  begins  with  the  lighting  of  the 
gas-lamps.  Good  carriages  60r.  (and 
lOOr.  the  whole  day),  at  Hdtel  de 
Madrid. 

iToriM.— Plaza  de  YiUasis  No.  6 ; 
Calle  Aceite  No.  6  ;  all  indifferent 

/)ocfon.~Mai8ella,  Calle  Alta  No. 
9,  and  Palados,  Calle  de  las  Armas 
No.  9,  have  studied  in  France^  and  are 
well  spoken  of.  There  is  an  English 
physician  at  the  mines  of  Linares,  who 
will  come  to  Seville  if  specially  sum- 
moned. Apolheeary.-^VLoeitDAt  Calle 
Sierpes  No.  94. 

BatlLa.~Baths  at  HOtels  de  Madrid 
and  Paris,  4r.  in  summer  and  8r.  in 
winter.  There  is  river-bathing  in  sum- 
mer at  the  Puerta  de  Jerez,  Triana,  and 
San  Juan. 

Wina. — ^Very  middling  and  dear  at 
the  hotels ;  the  genuine  Xeres  of  Du* 
bosc's  at  La  Sirena,  Calle  de  Sierpes, 
where  excellent  liqueurs,  French  wines,  ' 
and  English  grocery  can  be  found 
(first-rate  sherry  for  20r. )  At  Hdtel  de 
I'Europegood  Domeoq's  sherry  may  be 
obtainelL 

IMreotoqr.  EmgHA  ClwreA.— Rendeat 
OupUin,  Rer.  S.  B.  Durtchaell,  19  Plan 
Nuera.  Senrioe  on  Sundays,  etc,  at  the  Coo- 
■ul's  house,  at  11  a.m.  and  at  6  r.M.  DifBcul- 
ttes  with  the  local  authorities — temporary  only, 
we  hope — hare  recently  interrupted  the  senrioe. 
The  matter  now  lies  before  the  Spanish  Govern- 
ment The  Protestant  burial-ground  b  at  San 
Geronimo,  3  m.  from  Seville :  it  is  supported 
by  voluntary  contributions. 

C0HtuU-'H.  B.  M:*  CVwfw/— Julian  & 
Williams,  Esq.,  Calls  D.  Remoodo.  Frmnct, 
M.  Benedetti  Belgium,  M.  De  U  Haut. 
Rustia  and  PrutM,  M.  J.  Ant  Mcfry, 
Calle  Don  Remooda 

And«go  HU$, — 19  Barrio  Noevo,  Triaaa. 

BookstlUrt, — Ill-provided,  u  usual  Geoffiri^,  * 
CaQe  Sierpes  No.  35:  Hijos  da  F^  CaIleT<» 


SEVILLE. 


415 


tmn,  Na  19 ;  Ganthier,  aanie  ftreet  Tmihr. 
— Rodrignec,  Sierp«s,  Na  4.  /f«^Sui^.— Lft 
Vicenta;  apply  for  addreat  to  sIk^  m  GaUe 
Frencoa  Na  50  (Comiao).  Fintruif,  imcr 
mfmtUttg't  ImdU^  tiMtm,—'ijk  Dalia  Aaol,  Sier- 
pes.  Hair-dmmr.  —  Joatf  HQl,  Sierpea. 
CT^Srorr.— Qu^y,  good  and  dieiq)^  Serpea. 
SUUi0n*r».—^i^SiAiiit  Tetoaa,  No.  8.  Ptr- 
/umert, — Garcia,  Sierpea,  Na  s.  Theel^ant 
nligree  auver  Duitonay  peaiaiitsr  earnngai 
crowet,  etc,  which  are  very  pretty  and  load, 
may  be  had  at  Sanchex  Saenx's,  GaUe  Chicar- 
reroa,  Na  s  La  Plateria.  Shotmmktr. — ^A 
PreD9hinan  in  Calle  Sierpea.  A  nJalutioH  cm- 
immes,  Skamls,  Lintn^  Silks,  itic.,  may  be  ob- 
tained at  a  very  fine  basaar,  the  brgeat  here, 
Calle  Francoa  Nos.  49,  50,  5z.  NaiUr. — 
Bunont,  Calle  Campona  Noa.  la  and  13. 
PkcUgraphrr,  —Louis  Masaon,Cane  de  Genora. 
Photographic  views  of  Seville,  and  from  picttnw* 
gallery,  may  be  purchased  here. 

Ca^vrvMr.— May  be  heard  of  at  Hdtal  de 
Madrid,  Paris,  etc.    aors.  a-day. 

For  good  Cordovan  leathern  embroidered 
borceguiea,  Andaluaaa  saddles,  etc.,  at  Calle 
del  Mar,  Delgada  AmOwv.— Messrs.  Beck, 
White,  ft  Co.,  coTfetpondents  of  London  and 
Westminster,  Na  aa  Calle  Bayonna :  Mr. 
John  Cunningham,  Calle  Guzman  d  Boena 
^.  A— Bank  of  Seville  notes  current  in  this 
province  only. 

Xxourtion*  to  the  SnTirons  of 
8«Tille. — BMiiin»  o/Italiea,  — ^A  pleasant 
diire^  }  of  an  hoar  along  the  banks  of 
the  GoadalqniTir,  and  through  the  Til- 
lage of  Santo  Ponce.  This  hamlet, 
whoee  name  la  said  to  come  from  Santo 
Poso  (Holy  Well),  occupies  the  site  of 
Seville  U  yi<ya  or  Italica,  and  the  fields 
around  are  cdled  Lot  Oampot  d$  Taka, 
from  the  Moorish  way  {Talxkdh)  of  pro- 
nouncing Ttalica.  Leave  the  carriage 
at  the  Tillage  and  proceed  on  foot 
(10  minutes'  walk)  through  some  olive 
grounds  to  the  ruined  amphitheatre, 
the  only  Testige  now  remaining  of  the 
once  prosperous  city.  It  was  founded 
u.a  647,  on  the  site  of  the .  Iberian 
Sancioa  by  Sdpio  Africanus,  as  a  home 
and  resting-place  for  his  wounded  and 
coDTalescent  soldiers  after  the  campaign 
against  the  Carthaginians.  'Sdpio 
milites  omnes    Tulneribus  debiles  in 


unam  urbem  compulit,  quam  jib  Italia 
Italicam  nominaTit»'  says  Appian.  It 
became  the  birthplace  of  three  Boman 
emperors— Ti&  Tnjan,  Adrian,  and 
Theodosius— «nd  thereforo  deserred  all 
the  praise  of  Claudian's  Terses,  '  Hiec 
generat  qui  cuncta  regent '  Its  palaces^ 
aqueduct,  temples,  and  circus  wero 
magnificent  It  was  a  Munidpium  at 
firsts  and  then  became  a  Golonia  under 
Adrian  (the  coins  all  bear  the  inscrip- 
tion, '  Munic  Italic  ;  *  ses  Florez, 
'Esp.  Sag.'  ToL  xii.)  Thero  are  here 
and  there  portions  of  its  walls,  and  the 
palace  of  Tnjan  was  mostly  preserred 
till  1766^  when  an  earthquake  destroyed 
those  Testiges  of  Testiges*  '  imo  periere 
ruina. '  A  few  of  the  statues,  etc.,  haTo 
been  remoTed  to  the  Museo^  but  are 
mostly  indifferent  Coins  are  daily  dug 
up.  In  San  Isidore  del  Campo  are  some 
pillars,  also  from  Italica,  and  sepulchral 
inscriptions,  but  the  excaTstions  haTe 
ncTer  been  made  properly,  from  want 
of  funds  and  the  love  of  the  past 
About  £100  is  the  yearly  allowance  to 
carry  on  the  worics,  in  which  are  em- 
ployed four  men  and  six  mules^  'en 
todo,  dies  bestias,*  as  the  keeper  gravely 
asserted  to  us.  The  beautiful  pave- 
ment, dug  up  in  1799  and  preserved  by 
a  poor  monk  called  Fr.  I.  Moscoso,  is 
mentioned  by  Laborde  in  his  '  Voyage 
en  Espagne,'  and  now  no  longer  exists. 
Portions  of  the  amphitheatre  are  well 
preserred.  It  measures  291  ft  long  by 
204  ft  wide.  Here  traces  may  be  seen 
of  the  jwcfMHH,  a  sort  of  platform  all 
round  where  the  magistrates  sat,  the 
Tomitoria,  or  doon  leading  outside,  and 
the  cunei  or  grees  where  the  people  sat 
and  which  are  16  ft  diameter.  The 
Sudarii,  where  the  gladiators  prepared 
themsdves  for  the  fight  and  the  dens 
which  contained  the  wild  beasts,  have 
been  recently  discoTered.  The  half- 
effaced  Mosaic  kept  in  the  galleries  is 
indifferent    To  the  W.  are  some  Tsiilt- 


416 


SkVILLEL 


ad  brick  tanks  called  la  Caaa  de  lot 
Baftoi.  Here  were  the  reeenroira  of  the 
tquednct  built  hy  Adrian,  and  which 
brought  the  water  from  Tejada^  7  leagues 
distant  The  versea  bj  Rojaa  about 
Italica»  inacribed  on  a  pillar,  and  an 
imitation  of  Garo'a,  are  indifferent  In 
the  Church  of  San  Isidoro  obaenre 
atatnea  of  the  tutelar  and  San  Geronimo, 
bj  Montaftea,  and  the  tombs  of  Guzman 
el  Bneno  and  his  Queen,  who  founded 
thia  church  in  1801  (their  effigiea  date 
1609).  Here  alM  ia  buried  Da.  Urraca 
Oaorio^  who  waa  burnt  alire  hy  Don 
Pedro  for  rejecting  lua  addreaaea.  Her 
maid,  on  aeeing  that  the  wind  moat  in- 
diacreetly  ezpoaed  her  mistreaa'a  body 
to  the  fmblio  gaze,  ruahed  in  and,  cover- 
ing  her  up  for  the  laat  time,  died  with 
her.  Heman  Cort^  waa  firat  buried 
here^  and  then  his  body  removed  to 
Mezico ;  in  1828  his  aahea  once  more 
changed  place;  where  they  now  are, 
JHoi  mih$  and  man  carea  little — in 
Spain.  Cloae  by  at  the  village  of  Caa- 
tillq'o  da  la  Cneata,  in  CaUe  Beal  No. 
66,  that  hero  died,  December  2,  1547. 
The  houae  haa  been  recently  repaired 
by  the  Duo  de  Montpenaier. 

AwMJfa/rach4  ia  a  amall  village  on 
the  other  aide  of  the  river  on  a  height, 
and  from  which  there  ia  a  good  view  of 
Seville.  In  the  church  is  the  retablo^ 
with  picturea  by  Caatilla 

Outaide  Triaaa  is  the  Oarti^a  con- 
vent, now  an  important  porcelain-manu- 
factory belonging  to  an  itngjifh  com- 
pany, Pickman  k  Co.,  and  built  in 
1400  by  Archbiahop  Mena.  The  roae- 
window  on  the  fa^ade^  the  entrance 
door,  and  the  gardena  full  of  ezquiaite 
OTingea,  are  all  that  can  intereat  the 
paasing  touriat,  aa  the  poroelain  is^in- 
different,  though  much  uaed  all  over 
Spain,  and  aome  of  the  Spaniah  jugi^ 


cantaroa,  a^ofainaa,  ate.,  are  atriooa 
and  ancient  in  ahape. 

B0Pk»  if  Riftrtnet.  —  SwvUU.-^x.  '  Anales 
wdwwiricoi  y  aegkret  d«  k  M.  N.  y  M.  L. 
aadad  d«  SevOh,'  «tc.,  from  1946  to  1671,  by 
Ortts  (U  ZoBiga ;  Madrid,  lafiuisoii,  1676,  foL 
There  is  a  tecood  edition  of  179S-96 ;  Madrid, 
Imprenta  Real,  with  additions  Vf  Espiaosa  y 
CarceL  It  is  considered  the  beal  and  bosk 
critical  work  00  Seville. 

a.  'Histociado  U  Juderia  de  Sevilla.' sSt^ 
4ta  The  great  centres  of  the  Jewish  race  m. 
Spain  have  been  Toledo^  ZangiMa,  Granada, 
and  Serine. 

3-  'Descripdoo  aitiatica  de  k  Catednl  de 
SeriUa^'byCeanBennudes;  SeYiHe,  Hidalgo^ 

1804,  8vo^  with  lour  views  of  CstbedrsL    Aa 
appendix  by  same  author  was  published  in 

1805.  It  is  the  best  and  moat  aufhcntic  de- 
scr^ition  of  this  superb  stnicture. 

4.  'Coostituciooes  del  Ar{obiqMulo  de  Se- 
villa,  CapOades,  Hechas  y  Ordoiadas,'  etc,  by 
Cardinal  Rodrigo  de  Castro,  Archbishop  of  Se- 
ville:  Seville,  Juan  de  Leon,  1591,  affords  a  dear 
insight  into  the  state  of  the  clergy,  that  imp«rimm 
in  im^trio  of  i6(h  century.  NM. — ^According 
to  Cabrera  ('  DiacurM  kgal  sobre  k  Imprenta,' 
foL  xo),  this  Juan  de  Leon  introduced  printing 
into  Seville,  publishing  in  1545  the  '  Suaui  de 
Philosophk  moral'  of  Fuentes,  and  three  books 
onViguck  music  by  Mudarra  (1746X  Vide 
Mendes,  'Typographk  EspaBok,'  vol  L  159, 
but  already  in  1476  a  book,  called  'Sacramental,' 
by  Sanchcs  dd  Verdal,  had  been  printed ;  in 
1477,  Montahro's 'Manual  of  Jurisprudence,'etc 

5.  In  the  otherwise  not  important  collection 
of '  BeDesas  y  Recuerdos  de  Eqafia,*  consult 
the  volume  relative  to  SeviUa  by  D.  Pedro 
Madraao,  a  distinguished  writer,  broChcr  of  the 
pntrait-painter  of  same  name. 

61  Standkfa, '  Sevflk  and  its  Vkinity.'  Great 
research  and  useful  information.  The  qtecu- 
ktions  on  the  origin,  former  site,  coins,  etc,  of 
some  vilkges,  etc,  not  always  reliable. 

There  is  besides  a  kcal '  Guia  de  Sevilk  yde 
so  Provinda,'  published  yearly,  containing 
streets,  squares,  tarilk,  etc:  'Sevilk  Pinto* 
resca,'  by  A.de  Loa  Rioe;  Sevilk,  Ahrares 
and  Co.,  S84S:  and  'Sevilk  Artktica,  hf 
Cokm. ;  Seville,  same  printers,  tS4i,  etc 

/AiAm.— 'Descripdoo  de  k  Aatigaa  It*. 
Uca,' by  Prieto  y  Sotek :  a  foL  MS.  k  Libtary 
of  AcmL  da  k  UiM.  (B.  t44);  dakt  174a 


417 


TANGIER.  TETUAN.  Em  (Moroooq) 


It  should  bo  the  endMTour  of  erery 
tourist  whilst  at  Qibnltor  to  make  an 
episodical  tonr  to  Morocco^  and  at  all 
erents  to  Tangier  if  nothing  more  can 
be  aooompUshed.  No  passports  are 
needed.  There  are  special  British 
steamers  which  ply  between  Gibraltar 
and  Tangier.  These,  although  small, 
are  safe  and  oomfortablek  and  make  the 
passage  in  about  84  hn. ;  the  days  and 
hours  of  departure  are  adyerUsed  in  the 
local  papers,  hotels,  eta  They  leare 
about  twice  a- week ;  distance^  17  miles. 
There  are,  besides,  occssional  larger 
steamers,  and  the  French  Qoremment 
steamers  leare  Gibraltar  on  their  way 
from  Algiers  and  Cuan  (56  hn.  Gib- 
raltar to  Gran)  on  the  9th  of  every 
month.  From  Tangier  they  proceed  to 
Cadis,  whence  again  to  Tangier,  Gib- 
raltar, and  Oran.  They  leare  Tangier 
for  Gibraltar  on  the  14th  or  15th  of 
ereiymontli. 

JV:^.— Gibraltar  to  Tetnan,  6)  hrs., 
by  Miling  r  easels  two  or  three  times 


Algednu  to  Cmtta, — Spanish  mail- 
packets  three  times  a-week,  1)  hr.,  also 
occasional  last  sailing  ressels. 

MoXaga  to  OmUa, — Occasional  steam- 
ers^ 8  hiB. 

The  pattagi  from  Gibraltar  is  s  plea- 
sant s^  and  the  riews  of  the  coast  of 
Spain,  comprising  Algeciras  and  Tarifis 
are  only  lost  si^t  of  for  those  of  the 
African  shores.  The  currents  are  strong 
in  the  centre,  which  makes  the  sea 
sometimes  rou^  The  bay  of  Tsngier 
is  soon  entered.  On  our  left  rises  Ras 
El  Menar,  also  called  Cape  Ifalabatte, 
which  is  formed  by  a  prolongation  of 
the  Dje-el-An4jera,  and  on  our  right 
Cape  Spartel,  or  Rss-Achakkar,  whidi 
forms  tiie  north-western  extremity  of 
the  African  oontinent»  and  rises  a  pro- 

2 


jeoting  mass  of  a  grindle^stone  some 
900  ft  high.  •  Between  the  cape  and 
the  dty  a  scanty  stream,  the  Wld-Tdd, 
empties  itself  into  the  ocean ;  and  in 
the  innermost  portion  of  the  bay  the 
WId-halk,  also  caUed  Wlul-Tki^ja, 
empties  itself  into  the  sea.  There  being 
no  mole,  the  steamer  anchors  at  a  shc^ 
distance  from  the  dty,  and  on  arriring 
ii  soon  surrounded  by  dosens  of  boats, 
whose  eager  owners,  dressed  in  their 
natural  Uack  leathern  skin,  rend  the 
air  with  yells,  and  tender  their  serrices 
by  seizing  on  the  luggage,  each  taking 
a  part  in  their  boats;  but  you  must 
trust  to  the  captain,  who  expostulates 
with  them,  and  will  settle  the  Dues, 
etc  There  is  no  landing-place,  so  ladies 
and  gentlemen  alike  must  arail  them- 
selres  of  the  backs  of  the  Tangerine 
porters  who  wade  to  shorei  The 
custom-house  olHdals  are  grare  and 
literally  mdato  Moors,  who  squat  on 
wooden  deewims  and  generdly  nod, 
assent^  as  discussions  in  such  a  hot 
climate  would  interrupt  digestion  and 
put  out  the  £if  tobacco. 

Inns.— An  English  houae^  Ashton 
Hotel,  in  Washington  Street;  rery 
decent  and  comfortable;  modersta 
charges;  also  the  prirate  boardings 
house  of  Sefiora  Nina,  a  dril  Israelite 
landlady. 

As  doerones  and  guides  we  recom- 
mend our  old  friend  HammM,  who  is 
trustworthy  snd  may  be  relied  upon  for 
information,  and  his  son  Selim^  who 
knows  less  than  his  frither  about  Jour- 
neying etc,  but  is  more  aetire. 

Taagiar,  with  a  population,  aooord- 
ing  to  tiie  best  authorities^  of  some 
10,000  (of  which  400  are  Europeans),  is 
the  capital  of  the  Fschalik  or  prorince 
of  Halibat,  the  politioo-diplomatio 
capital  of  the  empire  of  Moroooo^  and 


418 


TANGIER. 


the  reddanoe  of  fordgn  ministen  and 
coDsuU.  Tkii4ja»  'the  city  protected 
by  the  Lord,'  is  rery  ancient,  the 
earliest,  perhaps,  of  this  part  of  Africa, 
and  close  to  the  Roman  *  Tmgii; '  it 
has  sacoessiTely  belonged  to  ^e  dif- 
ferent peoples  who  haye  conquered  that 
coontiy.  It  fell  into  the  hands  of  the 
Portogaese,  shortly  after  the  capture 
b]»them  of  Anilla,  and  was  ceded  to 
the  English  in  1062,  in  the  dowry  of 
Catherine  of  Bragana^  who  married 
Charles  1L  It  was  given  up  by  Eng- 
land 1684,  and  the  mole  and  fortifi- 
cations which  had  been  raised  were 
then  destroyed,  and  hare  not  been 
since  rebuilt  Of  these  the  rocks  op- 
posite to  Bab-el-Mersu,  the  Engli^ 
Sandwich  Gate,  formed  a  breakwater 
just  before  the  mole,  which  was  armed 
with  two  batteries.  The  jetty,  which 
formed  the  port  on  the  side  of  the  bay, 
had  also  a  battery,  and  important  works 
had  been  erected  on  the  now  defence- 
less plateau  which  extends  S.W.  of  the 
kasblh.  The  city  was  greatly  embel- 
lished during  the  two  centuries  of  Por- 
tuguese occupation  ;  but  of  its  monu- 
ments, cathedral,  and  other  churches, 
few  il  any  restiges  remain. 

Situated  at  the  N.W.  extremity  of 
the  ba^,  the  city  rises  in  an  amphi- 
theatre on  the  slopes  of  two  hills ;  one 
to  the  K.  is  occupied  by  the  kasb4h, 
or  citadel ;  on  the  other,  to  the  S.,  ex- 
tends the  town  proper.  Seen  ttom  the 
sea  it  bears  a  picturesque  aspect,  some- 
what similar  to  that  of  Algiers,  but  on 
a  smaller  scale. 

The  principal  street  crosses  the 
town,  beginning  at  the  Bab-el-Harsa, 
or  Gate  of  the  Marine,  and  continues 
to  the  Bab-el-Sok,  or  Gate  of  the 
Market-place.  Passing  by  the  principal 
mosque  and  largest  square,  the  broadest 
street  in  the  city  after  the  one  abore  is 
that  in  which  the  houses  of  the  minis- 
ters of  England,  France^  and  Portugal 


are  situated.  The  streets,  or  rather 
lanes^  are  TSiy  narrow,  winding  and 
dirty;  the  houses  are  small,  white- 
washed, and  generally  of  one  storey, 
tarraoed,  with  the  usual  characteristics 
seen  in  all  Moorish  cities^  such  ss 
absence  of  windows^  inner  courts,  etc 

Sights.— The  principal  sights  sre 
the  mosques,  all  indifferent,  saTe^  per- 
haps, the  exterior  of  the  Mueddin 
Tower  or  Minaret,  attached  to  the 
principal  mosque  or  Djama-el-Kebir, 
which  is  of  recent  construction,  and 
to  the  interior  of  which  Chiistians  are 
not  allowed  entrance. 

The  Sok,  or  market-place,  which 
must  be  seen  on  a  Thursday  mominj^ 
and  the  smaller  Sok  Szara^  are  Tery 
curious.  The  scene  here  is  slone  worth 
an  excursion.  Obsenre  the  picturssque 
groups  of  squatting  women  enveloped  in 
their  white  haiks,  and  the  tall  reefians 
(which  you  may  pronounce  rufiians) 
tnm  the  mountains  between  Ceuta  and 
Oran,  draped  in  their  hooded  geKab, 
their  heads  shaved,  with  the  exception 
of  a  lock  hanging  over  their  shoulders, 
a  -tribe  that  claims  to  be  the  pure 
descendants  of  the  Berber  race.  The 
shops,  camels,  slave-market,  the  sub- 
terraneous granaries  (the  Spaniards' 
Silos),  the  variety  of  costume,  the 
guttural  harsh  Maghreb,  the  passive 
.indifferent  expression  on  the  counte- 
nance and  the  vacant  eye,  indicative  of 
ignorance  and  degeneracy — all  these 
will  be  novel  to  the  tourist  Besides 
the  modem  houses,  large  and  comfort* 
able,  of  the  British  and  Spanisl* 
ministers,  etc.,  there  are  two  or  three 
belonging  to  wealthy  Jews  and  Moors, 
which  may  be  visited.  We  also  recom- 
mend a  visit  to  the  Oardmt  of  the 
Belgian  and  Swedish  Consuls,  Huerta 
de  Harden ;  to  the  orange-groves  and 
villas  of  Mustafa  Dicali  and  those  of 
the  British  Minister,  Sir  John  Drum* 
mond    Hay,    Mountain   Washiogtoo, 


TANOIKR. 


419 


eta  The  south  of  Tangier,  toroM  the 
eandy  downs,  may  be  also  Tinted.  Here 
are  some  restiges  of  an  old  bridge  and 
other  ruins,  said  to  be  the  site  where 
Tiigis  once  stood.  The  BatheCM  Palae$ 
is  indifferent  Ladies  are  admitted  to 
Tisit  the  hareuL  In  the  stables,  which 
are  also  shown,  some  good  horses  may 
be  seen,  belonging  to  the  Morocco 
breed. 

Protestant  lenrioe  on  Sunday  at  the 
English  Consulate,  and  Catholic  senrice 
at  the  small  chipx^  of  the  Spanish  Le- 
gation, which  is  performed  by  Domini- 
can monks. 

There  is  a  small  theatre,  Teatra  No- 
velo,  in  which  occasional  performances 
take  place  by  actors  from  Gibraltar. 

Banker, — Moses  Pariente.  Doctor, 
— Dr.  Dixon,  an  Knglish  physician. 
There  are  sereral  bazaars  kept  by  Jews ; 
that  of  Azamur  is  the  best;  Fes  por- 
celain, ornamented  daggers,  Mocdsh 
costumes,  sashes,  beads,  etc,  are  for 
sale— are  sold  At  half  the  value  which 
is  at  first  asked.  The  Jews  wear  a 
peculiar  dress ;  that  of  the  women  is 
graceful,  especially  the  holiday  costume, 
which  is  yeiy  coetly.  They  are  a  rery 
handsome  race,  but  the  most  perfect  are 
seen  at  Tetuan. 

Tangier  to  Tiatifaii.— Distance  12  to 
14  leagues,  riding  in  one  day;  horses 
1  dollar  a-day.  Apply  to  the  EngUsh 
Consul  to  obtain  a  soldier  as  an  escort, 
who  is  paid  4  dollars  a-day,  his  horse 
included ;  the  guide  1  dollar  a-day, 
not  including  hii  horse.  This  soldier, 
called  Maro  de  Rey,  belongs  to  the 
Sultan's  body-guard.  By  learing  at 
8  A.M.,  Tetuan  may  be  reached  a^ 
5  P.M.  The  road,  a  mere  tnct,  lies 
across  yerdant  plains  and  woody  dis- 
tricts. A  halt  is  usually  made  half- 
way, near  the  Caravanserai  of  the- 
goige  of  Ain-Djedida,  called  SI  Fondak^ 
whence,  probi^ly,  the  Spanish  word 
Fonda. 


Tetuan.— Population,  1^,000  Moon, 
7500  Jews,  and  upwards  of  500 
Spaniards.  Before  the  siege  of  the 
town  by  the  Spaniards,  it  is  said  to 
haye  numbered  some  40,000.  Tetuan 
appears  most  picturesquely  from  a 
distance^  as  it  is  seen  rising  on  the 
steep  slopes  of  some  hills,  one  of  which 
is  crowned  by  the  Easbah  or  Fortress. 
The  river.  Wild  Marttl,  or  Bio  Martin, 
runs  towards  the  S. ;  on  its  right  bank 
rise  the  hills  of  the  wild  Beef  range, 
some  8000  ft  high.  This  rirer  takes 
its  rise  in  the  hills  of  the  Lower  Atlas^ 
and  empties  itself  Into  the  Mediter- 
ranean, a  few  miles  off^  and.  not  ftf 
from  Ceuta.  On  entering  the  city,  the 
tourist  follows  a  narrow  muddy  lane 
leading  to  the  principal  square.  There 
are  sereral  Spanish  Fondas,  which  hare 
been  recently  established.  It  is  usual 
for  English  tourists  to  put  up  at  old 
Solomon  Nahom*s,  a  ciril  and  intelli- 
geut  Israelite.  Tetuan  is  far  more 
interesting  than  Tangier,  although  the 
Spaniards  destroyed  8800  houses  In 
the  last  war.  The  streets  are  said  to 
be  like  those  of  Fes.  Visit  the  markets, 
the  KasbUi,  the  bazaars,  the  Chozas  or 
villas  and  gardens  of  the  wealthy  Moors ; 
the  British  Consul's  house  is  a  good 
specimen  of  Mauresque,  not  Moorish, 
style.  The  garden  of  the  Bash4h  may 
be  also  visited.  There  is  some  good 
shooting  in  winter  In  the  vicinity  of 
Tetuan — partridge,  quails,  wild  ducks 
— and  boar-hunting.  Cabo  Martin  can 
be  made  head-quarters.  It  costs  lOr. 
per  day  to  keep  a  horse.  Nahom  will 
provide  sportsmen  with  provender,  etc. 
Take  two  soldiers,  Moro$  dk  Bey,  with 
you,  and  do  not  extend  your  excursions 
too  far,  or  unaccompanied.  The  Jew- 
ish type  is  here  seen  in  all  its  perfec- 
tion. Endeavour  to  witness  a  Jewish 
marriage,  the  antique  ceremonies  of 
which  are  especially  interesting  here. 
The  mosques,  about  forty  in  number. 


420 


TANOIEB. 


•re  laiger  and  finer  than  at  Tangier. 
The  Spaniarda  ohtained  permiaaion, 
hy  the  treaty  of  peaoe^  to  build  a 
(^tholio  churoh,  which  ia  now  being 
completed,  and  ia  dedicated  to  K.  8.  de 
la  Victoria.  The  port  of  Tetaan  ia 
aheltered  from  the  weat  winda^  bat  mnoh 
ezpoaed  to  the  eaat  It  ia  ahallow,  and 
the  trade  indifferent^  oonaiating  of 
woollena,  barley,  wax,  leather,  ailka, 
F^  porodain,  asulejoa,  etc 

A  charming  da/a  ride  by  Cape 
Negro ;  take  a  Moro  de  Key  aoldier  aa 
an  eaoort. 

Oanta,  SAta  in  Maghreb,  ao  called 
from  the  aeren  hilla  which  are  aeen 
here  adyandng  towarda  the  atraita, 
became  a  Portngneae  poaseaaion  in 
1486,  and  In  1640  wu  annexed  to  the 
erown  of  Caatile.  The  Berber  ezpedi- 
tiona  againat  Spain  embarked  from  thia 
port  Ita  northern  extremity,  Punta 
de  Africa,  ia  Jnat  oppoaito  to  Punta  do 
EoTopa,  which  ia  part  of  *  the  Rock'  of 
Gibraltar,  aitoated  28  ka  acroaa,  and 
thna  the  Promontory  of  Ceuta,  £1 
Hacho^  wu  the  Abyla,  aa  Gibraltar 
the  Calpe,  and  both  the  celebrated 
PiUaraofHercoleiL  At  the  foot  of  the 
citadel  are  aome  Roman  roina.  It  ia  a 
doll,  dirty  town,  but  an  important 
pruidio,  or  Spaniah  military  priaon. 
The  other  Spanish  poeaesaiona  ou  that 
ooaat,  all  proidioa,  are  Pe&on  de  Yelea, 
de  Alhncemaa,  Melilla,  DJafarin  lalea 
(Laa  Chafiuinaa),  etc  The  N.W. 
coaata  of  Morocco,  extending  to  15 
leagaeain  the  interior,  would  hare  been 
a  more  uaeful  colony  to  Spain  than 
the  Philippinea,  and  France  could  well 
exchange  Algeria  for  Morocco.  The 
war  between  Spain  and  Morocco  waa  a 
naefhl  prommuuU  milUain,  which  coat 
little  to  the  country,  and  evinced  great 
reaourcea,  good  administration,  publio 
apirit,  and  displayed  all  the  excellent 
qualitiea  of  the  Spaniah  aoldier.  *  The 
canaea  were  futile,  and  magnified  by 


a  military  miniatry  who  loTod  power 
and  deaerred  it  The  old  war -ay 
'  Guerra  al  Moro  1'  oould  not  fail  to  be 
popular.  An  army,  compoaed  of  fiity- 
two  bttttaliona,  twelve  aquadrona,  and 
aeventy-four  field-piecea,  waa  divided 
into  three  corpa,  confided  to  Generala 
Eohangna  y  Birmingham,  Zavala,  and 
Roe  de  Oluic  The  reaerve  waa  placed 
under  the  ordera  of  the  gallant  General 
Prim,  and  the  cavalry  under  thoae 
of  General  Galiano.  A  fleet,  oommia- 
sioned  to  protect  the  landing,  maintain 
communicationa  with  Spain,  etc,  waa 
organised,  formed  of  tUrty-four  ahipa 
and  twenty-four  cafioneraa^  a  total  of 
upwards  of  280  cannon.  The  expedi- 
tion waa  placed  under  the  command  of 
Marahal  0*Donnel,  auboequentty  raiaed 
to  the  title  of  Duque  de  Tetuan. 
Many  of  the  commanding  oflBcera  who 
played  a  part  in  that  war  bore  Iriah 
namea.  O'Donnel,  Mac  Rohon,  Sir 
Richard  de  Laasauaaye,  an  able  and  gal- 
lant officer,  formerly  of  the  '  Legion,' 
O'Reilly,  and  many  othera.  The  Bri- 
tish Government  had  oppooed  itaelf 
explicitly  to  any  occupation  of  Tan- 
gier, and  Tetuan  therefore  became 
the  object  of  the  war.  On  Nov.  19, 
1859,  the  troopa  landed  at  Ceuta. 
After  aeveral  oombata,  called  battles^- 
in  which  great  valour  waa  displayed  on 
both  aidea  and  victory  not  easily  ob- 
tained, the  battle  of  Tetuan  took  place 
Muley  Abboa  (the  Sheereefs  brother) 
encamped  on  the  hUls  of  Djilali;  Muley 
Ahmdd'a  army  extended  over  the  slopes 
and  gardena  of  Tetuan.  About  40,000 
men  defended  the  city.  European 
discipline  and  tactica  gained  the  day, 
and  on  Feb.  6,  1860,  the  Spanish  army 
entered  the  city  which  had  surrendered. 
The  enthusiasm  in  Spain  wu  very 
great  O'Donnel  became  another  Cid  ; 
the  queen,  Isabella  the  Catholic  ;  Mu- 
ley Abboa,  Boabdil.  There  wu  even 
aome  talk  of  swallowing  up  la  pirjidm 


TAMOIEB. 


421 


AMm  at  one  gulp,  and  Don  Quixote, 
who  nerer  diet  there^  waa  leen  winding 
his  way  through  iht  land  of  Cer- 
▼anteii  lowering  windmiUs,  and  tend- 
ing imaginazy  floods  of  blood  from  goat- 
sldna  filled  with  wine. 

The  following  ezeorsions  may  be 
made  from  Tangier:  To  Fm — Fire 
days'  riding  by  Meqoines.  Permission 
frtnn  the  sheereef  required  and  a  name- 
rons  esoort  Very  interesting  to  visit 
Population  of  Fei,  50,000  ;  of  Meqoi- 
nes, 40,000.  Aboat  £800  are  requisite 
for  expenses,  bakshish  (presents),  etc 

Zttra^$, — ^Two  dsys*  ridings  sleeping 
at  Arzilla,  where  there  is  an  inn.  Ex- 
oellent  wild  duck  and  partridge  shoot- 
ing. Larache  to  Arzilla,  10  leagues  ; 
Anilla  to  Tangier,  18  leagues. 

Satty.^Tbn  days'  lide  by  Axxilla 
and  Larache. 

Babai  to  Ca$a  BUmoL—Xynib  days' 
ride ;  by  sea,  4  hrs. 

AwtmooT, — By  Casablanca  two  days* 
ride  :  Axemoor  to  Maiagan,  1|  hr. ; 
Mazagan  to  Saffi,  two  d^ ;  8affi  to 
Mogador,  two  days* 

GENERAL  STATISTICS  OF 
MOROCCO. 

ToUU  awrface,  5775  square  myria- 
m^trea.  The  Atlantic  coast  extends 
1265  klL  ;  on  the  straits,  00  kiL ;  on 
the  Mediterranean,  485  kiL 

Olimaie.— The  lone  that  comprises 
the  coast  is  temperate,  the  heat  not  in- 
supportable, and  the  plains  are  shel- 
tered from  the  desert  wind  by  ranges 
of  lofty  hills.  The  mountainous  lone 
is  cold  in  winter,  owing  to  constant 
snow  on  the  heights,  the  rains  in  win-, 
ter  long-continned  and  dilurian.  -  The 
heat  is  insufferable  in  summer.  Aye- 
rage  temperature  on  the  northern  coast 
isl8*Rh.  Rains  begin  to  &11  in  Octo- 
ber; in  Msrch  the  heat  is  already  great 
Tangier  is  better  situsted  and  healthier 
than  Tetuan.    The  mean  annual  tem- 


perature of  Tangier  is  about  67*  Fahr. 
The  indoor  temperature  nerer  rises 
abcTe  82*,  nor  was  erer  seen  lowqrthan 
58*.  In  the  open  air  the  glass  nerer 
falls  lower  than  49*,  and  frost  is  very 
rare.  February  and  Msrch  are  the 
coldest  and  most  rainy  months— rain 
falling;  howerer,  only  00  days  in  the 
whole  year.  The  most  sgreeable  season 
is  from  end  of  March  to  middle  of  June. 
We  were  there  some  time  in  January, 
and  thought  the  temperature  most  de- 
lightful The  preralent  winter  wind 
is  the  W. ;  in  summer  the  Eastwind. 
The  climate  is  on  the  whole  a  healthy 
one,  but  there  are  fluent  cases  oif 
ague^  elephantiasis  (a  kind  of  leprosy), 
and  small-pox,  among  the  lower  orders, 
who  are  ill  fed  and  badly  lodged. 

iVipiJa^um.— About  8,000,000  ;  but 
15,000,000,  according  to  Zurbaran  and 
others.  The  diTision  by  noes  would 
run  thus: — 

InMuMtaiili. 
Abmhuh  •       •       •       Sfjoo^ooo 
Chenoka    .  1,490^000 

Moon  and  miictd  Azabs    avSoo^ooo 
Arab  Bedomna  .  790^000 


Jewa 


8,a9o^8oo 


The  first  two  are  the  descendants  of 
the  Roman  Mauri,  Algerian,  Babyles, 
Touaregi  from  Sahara  and  Berbers^ 
The  word  In  Berber  means  noble. 
The  Moors  are  the  descendants  of  the 
Berbflfs  who  went  orer  to  Spain,  and 
were  so  called  by  the  Visigoths  because 
they  proceeded  from  Mauritania;  thouf^ 
haying  been  afterwards  mixed  with  the 
Arabs,  tiliey  differ  fhmi  them  in  many 
pdnts.  The  Negroes  proceed  fnm  the 
Soudan,  and  are  the  objects  of  a  luora- 
My%  trade ;  they  are  a  degree  hi^ier  as 
a  caste  here  than  in  AmericiL    ^nisim* 


i22 


TAMOISB. 


perial  fiunfly  if  mulatto,  and  the  Morot 
de  Rey  are  mostly  black.  At  Tetoan, 
Tuigier,  and  other  dtiea  of  the  north 
coasts  there  are  atOl  many  Mooriah 
familiei^  who  speak  Spanish,  and  are 
the  deecendants  of  those  who  were  ei;- 
peUed  after  the  capture  of  Grenada. 
The  Jewi^  who  form  an  important  item 
in  the  population,  are  the  remnants-  of 
those  who  were  exiled  from  Europe 
daring  the  middle  ages^  from  England 
in  1290,  from  the  sontii  of  France  in 
1896,  bat  the  migor  part  ttom  Spain  in 
the  16th  and  Idth  oentariea.  They 
therefore  call  themselTes  'deecendants 
of  the  eatsstrophe  of  Csstile, '  and  their 
most  important  deedi^  signed  in  the 
synsgQgae^  often  end — '  Baehol  Bitni- 
nahry  OadiUa/  i.«.  *  according  to  the 
nssge  of  OsstiUe.'  A  sepsrate  qaarter, 
called  the  JiiUah,  is  assigned  to  them 
in  erery  dty  except  Tangier ;  they  are 
held  ereiywhere  in  great  sabjeotion, 
and  the  laws  sgainst  them  are  most 
serere.  They  cannot  till  the  soil,  nor 
ride,  ezoept  a  male^  nor  eroee  coiain 
streets ;  their  taxee  are  heavy ;  they 
most  dress  either  in  black  or  dark 
cdoan^  and  throw  their  ydllah,  or 
black  cloak,  on  the  right  shoolder. 
The  women  are  so  handsome  that  the 
male  commonity  often  eecape  eoom 
and  ponishment  for  their  sake,  for 
*  Quit  contemnat  popalam  Hebneorom 
qui  tarn  decorsa  malieres  habentf 
Their  dress  is  splendid  and  antiqae  :  a 
complete  dress  csn  be  porchased  for 
2000r.  Obsenre  their  'sfifah,'  or  die- 
dem  of  pearls  and  diamonds;  the  'Al- 
korsshs^'  or  wide  earrings.  The  nbaOs, 
kholkbAls,  khooaten,  or  rings  and 
bfacelets  which  are  worn  roond  the 
arms,  legi^  lingers,  etc  Some  dresses 
cost  as  much  as  £800. 

UamUamt.'^Tht  range  of  the  Atlss 
may  be  called  the  backbone  of  Morocco; 
the  hij^iest  platean,  the  Miltiin,  which 
is  sitoated  60  Ula.  sooth  of  Mofooco^ 


rises  sbont  14,600  Ibet  The  prindpsl 
chain  is  the  Idrsren  Drftnn,  which  goes 
from  aw.  to  N. W. 

Seligion.—Tht  Mohammedan  reli- 
gion is  the  preyalent  one^  and  is  more 
strictly  obsenred  here  thad  in  Turkey, 
E^ypt,  etc.  Of  the  fonr  ritea  into 
which  it  is  diTided,  the  names  and 
precepts  of  which  are  derired  from  the 
principal  doctors  of  the  law,  whoee 
opinions  rale  in  matters  of  liturgy,  the 
Malekite  (from  Malek,  ob.  796  A.a)  is 
the  prevalent  one  here.  Among  the 
monntaineers  all  ia  rednced  to  knowing 
the  formnla  of  the  Law,  'AlUih  on 
AlUkh  Mohammed  re^oal  AIM'— is. 
'There  is  only  one  God,  and  Moham- 
med is  his  prophet.' 

6^Mffiifisia.— The  sheerif  is  tha 
head  of  the  chnrch,  the  prince  of  the 
faithfol,  and  the  absolnte  autocrat. 
The  local  administration  is  managed  by 
bashes,  kaids^  etc.  Robbery  is  the 
order  of  the  day,  and  almost  excusable^ 
as  the  former's  emoluments  come  to 
about  £2  a-mobth,  and  that  of  the 
Minister  for  Foreign  Affairs  is  £86  a* 
year.  On  the  northern  and  western 
coast,  and  in  the  principal  seaports, 
Foreign  Consuls  are  allowed. 

Armif  amd  JVavy. — The  sheerif  in 
time  of  wsr  cannot  muster  an  army 
exceeding  60,000  men.  The  imperial 
guard  or  bokhan  are  10,000  in  number. 
The  artillflfy  consists  ti  four  mounted 
field  batteries ;  their  arms,  the  spingsrd 
(£8  or  £10,  a  good  one),  the  sw<»d,  and 
the  lance. 

990^000 


•• 


R«v. 


1,610^000 


AMmaU^^Thit  lion  is  never  met  In 
the  north,  and  ia  nowhere  abundant ; 
wild  boars  swarm  the  country,  and  are 
killed  by  thonssnda.     There  are  alao 


TANOKB. 


423 


byeiiM^  Jftokala,  ptntherii  foxes,  ga- 
sella,  etc.  Monkeje  are  to  plentiM 
aboat  Tetuaa  that  they  tre  sold  for 
sizpence  or  a  shilling  each,  and  near 
the  same  town  leeches  fonn  a  veiy  im- 
portant speculation.  Ostriches,  water- 
hens,  woodcocks,  partridges,  wild 
docks,  snipes,  and  eagles  abound.  The 
horses  are  small,  dnewy,  and  sore- 
footed,  and  cost  from  £10  to  £26. 
Camels  come  mostly  from  the  soath ; 
the  aTersge  price  is  £10.  Fish  abonnd, 
espedally  along  the  sea-coast  Here 
is  found  the  nd,  mullet,  called  by  the 
Moors  the  scdtan  of  fidi ;  also  soles, 
torbot,  and  mackerel  The  Tangier 
oysters  are  small  bnt  delicate.  The 
rirer  Onmer-Bia  ii  foil  of  salmon; 
turtles  are  found  in  great  abundance  in 
the  Orieda  Belt»  and  the  Sebon  trout 
is  excellent 

Minei,  Boltm^,  elc—Tht  mines  are 
Tery  rich,  bnt  not  allowed  to  be  worked. 
The  flora  is  Tery  rich  and  Taried,  and 
desenres  iuTestigation. 

ITofMy.— LeaTingaside  flousand  other 
insignificant  coins — 

6  Fehs       nak*    t  bbakio,  copper. 

4  BlaokiM    „       i  oasa  or  oaUa,  mhtr, 
35  Onat        ^       <  ^"lo  or  Mr.  pioc« 

(sir,  9$c.) 

t  Dnnn       ,,       t  boatld. 

There  art  luJf-boatkit  ebo. 
to  **'*«M^  make  aa  aachitmdjook. 

The  shore  is  the  eotnimsrcial  ralue,  as 
according  to  the  Imperial  standard  it  is 
inferior.  Qoremment  pays  in  balUon 
and  recetres  only  sllTsr  and  gold.  Gold 
from  Surope  loses  by  exchange,  as  it  is 
inferior  to  that  of  Mofocoo.  SilTer  is 
current 

fFeigkU-^Tht  kantar  or  quintal  is 
118  lbs. ;  the  kantar-el-aro^lC  whence 
the  Spaidsh  arroba,  is  only  75  lbs;  The 
libim  is  dirided  into  libra  of  28  os.  and 
libra  of  only  16  oi.  The  mo6dd,  for 
measuring  grain*  eta,  contains  14,887 
tttns ;  4  of  them  make  a  sUih.    The 


moMd  is  dlTided  into  one  half  and 
quarts.  The  Spanidi  ftn^ga  is  also  in 
use.  The  JDkraa  is  about  5*61  deci- 
metres long. 

Tsngier  csrries  on  some  trade  with 
Qibrsltar— gndn%  fruit,  earthenware^ 
fowls,  eggs,  etc  The  garrison  of  the 
'Bock'  mainly  subsists  on  the  cattle 
sent  orer  from  Tangier— about  10^000 
heads  a-year,  at  about  £8  each. 

y^caMmty, 
Sbahalcliir.  A#w  A/M»  Af 


Sc^i, «  J^^mtt,  m  rt^i^hm  Spamdi  Hfmd^ 
Babp  d§0r,gmit. 

Zanglia,  9trt^  (Spaaieh  aM|A*X 
Ballak.#«/^M#t 


amd  Cmmtli  <U  TtmgUr  in 
1888.— .KsyiofiA— Minister  resident^ 
Sir  John  Drummond  Hay ;  Consul, 
Hr.  Reed.  iSTjMilii.— Minister,  Seftor 
D.  Francisco  Merry.  Franei, — M. 
Pelissier  (Oonsul).  S^^tfum.  —  Mr. 
Dalhoane  Consul).  Unitsd  iStotei.— 
Mr.  Math  (Consul).  Sw$dm.^UT. 
Htr6noff  (Consul).  i2aiSy._ar.  Mar- 
tino  (Consul).  FoHtigaL—S.  Don  Josi 
Colaso. 


B0$k$  0/ R^ftrmu.^x.  '  Deacripdoa  ec 
toire  du  Maroc,'  bjr  M.  L4oa  Godard ; 
t86o»  e  Tob.,  with  a  good  Mapi  Very  inier> 
esciag  and  aocmmle.  la  in  notes  will  be  fsond 
liats  of  the  principal  works  tiMt  Imto  been 
written  opon  If  oroooo,  such  as  Beaoderk's 
'  Joomey  to  Morocco,'  WindbiM^  '  Jonmey  of 
Meqdnes.*  San  Jmn  del  Poertc^s  *lfiw« 
Historial  de  Marraccoo.'  We  max  also  Men> 
tion  Mr.  Slaae's  i«pnrtant  notes  on  the  Berber 
origin,  langnace*  and  Uteratore,  in  his  tnuHlation 
of  Ebn-Khaldira,  and  Sir  J.  Dntmrnond  Hay^ 
graphic  Huntjag-Scenii  in  Morocco  (W« 
Barfaary,  s  toL),  etc  There  is  an 
SMp  published  1^  Wyld,  and  a  large  one  by  the 
fVench  Etat-M^)or.  The 
published  on  their  late 
on  Testigode  kOMiim  de  AfikB,»by  Selot 


Diariode 


424 


TARRAGONA. 


Oipitftlof  theproTinoeof  famename ; 
Archbiahop'8  tee,  Primate  de  laa  £s- 
pafiai^  and  therefore  ecclesiastical  riyal 
of  Toledo.    Seaport  of  Salon  close  by. 

Popnlatioii,  18,938  (1811). 

BonlM  and  Ooor^— x.  Fraoi  BmrcdmM,  by 
rafl;  dwftmor,  sox  kfl.;  tioM,  3)  lot.;  fiuct, 
uC'cL,  44r.  56c. ;  sd  d.,  33r.  150.  Tarragona  it 
00  tha  Ina  bctwacn  Baicdona  and  Valencia. 
For  description  of  route  tee  latter, 
.a.  From  ymiemdm,  by  tail :  Hbtanra,  »7S  klL ; 
tioM,  la  lus. ;  fiues,  xtt  cL,  9xr.  87c. ;  adcL,  sSr. 
70c.    For  route  aee  ymUmcm  firaoi  Barodona. 

3.  Ftoat  Mmdridt  in  aa  Ins.,  by  Zanico**t 
L6ida;  leave rdl at Tanaflona,  whence, by diL 
in  attendance,  to  Vimbodi,  8  leacnes,  3  hn. ; 
there  talca  op  rafl  to  Tanaflona,  55  IdL,  a  hn. ; 
%^*  47c ;  axr.  31c    See  Zaragnm, 

i/.  A— Madrid    time    (diir< 
Madrid  and  Tanafona)  19  m.  48 

Bolala.— Fonda  de  Europe,  on  the  RambU ; 
veiy  decent  and  drML  Tabledlidteatdr.M., 
xar. ;  ooohJitg  good:  breakfittt  and  dinner  in 
ptivale  roooB,  a8r. ;  a  bedroom,  8r. ;  aenrice,  v. 
n-day.    The  fonda  oppoatle  b  very  inferior. 

Oeneral  Description.— Tarragona  is 
admirably  sitoated  on  a  limestone  rock, 
800  ft  high,  and  sloping  to  the  sea. 
The  climate  is  delidons,  genial,  and  so 
wholesome  at  all  times  that  the  Roman 
pRBtor  need  to  make  it  his  winter  resi- 
dence. The  air  is  mild,  though  bracing, 
and  oftentimes  somewhat  keen  from 
the  hi^  situation  of  the  town,  and  the 
heat  in  summer  is  considerably  tem- 
pered \n  the  oool  sea-breezes.  This 
▼ery  old  town,  interesting  alike  from 
its  associations  with  the  early  history 
of  Spain  as  for  its  present  edifices,  is 
diTided  Into  the  upper  and  lower  cities, 
whioh  are  separated  by  a  line  of  walls. 
Most  of  the  houses  in  the  upper  portion 
were  built  with  the  stones  and  other 
materials  of  Roman  palaces  and  temples ; 
the  streets  are  irregular,  winding;  ill- 
payed,  and  narrow.  The  Calle  Mayor 
and  Rambla  are  the  best  streets,  and 
are  being  improTcd,  the  latter  espedally, 
whioh  crosses  the  town  N.W.  to  S.R., 
fhnn  the  Pnerta  de  San  Frandsoo  to 
that  of  St^  darai  a  distanoa  of  tome 


1650  ft  long  and  86  ft  wide,  and  on 
the  sides  of  which  new  buildings  and 
modem  houses^  etc.,  are  In  the  course 
of  erection.  In  the  lower  portion  are 
the  hospital,  theatre,  the  post,  s(»ne 
manufactories.  There  are  some  charm- 
ing promenades  on  the  ramparts,  espe* 
dally  on  that  of  the  OUto^  Bastion  del 
Toro,  from  which  the  riew  on  the  sea, 
port,  and  fiertile  Campo,  watered  by  the 
Francoli,  are  charming  and  rery  ezten- 
siye.  Trade  is  dull,  and  the  port,  though 
secure  and  spacious,  is  frequented  only 
by  small  craft,  etc  The  dty  is  there- 
fore, in  a  modem  point  of  yiew,  very 
backward,  dull,  and  without  any  im- 
portance ;  but  not  so  in  the  eyes  of  the 
antiquary,  who  will  derive  interest  fhnn 
a  dose  stady  of  its  Roman  ruins.  Those 
fond  of  beautiful  churches  the  cathedral 
and  doisters  cannot  fail  to  please. 

Historioal  Notioe.— Tarchon   (the 
eitadel,  in  Phoenician)  was  one  of  the 
earliest  Phoenician  settlements  in  Spain, 
and  became  subsequently  colonised  by 
the  Carthaginians,   who   founded,  at 
Villaf^anoa  dels  Panad^  In  the  ndgh- 
bourhood,  Carthago  Yetn^  as  Gartha- 
gena  was  the  Carthsgo  Nova,    She  sent 
her  soldiers  to  increase  the  army  of 
Hannibal,   and  the  anoestors  of  the 
Tarragonese  menaced  the  mistress  of 
the  world  with  ruin  and  desolation. 
Publius  and  Cndus  Sdpio  oocupied  the 
town,  sparing  the  Carthaginian  walla, 
but  building  upon  their  uraal  cydopean 
foundations.    Augustus  wintered  here 
26  B.a    Tarragona  became  the  head, 
eajnU,  or  capitol  of  Roman  Spain,  a 
'colonia  togati^'  and  sided  with  Pom- 
pey  against  Cesar;  but  on  the  final 
victory  of  the  latter,  submitted  humbly 
to  the  lord  of  the  world,  sent  amhansa 
dors  to  him,  obtained  his  pardon,  nay, 
his   protection,    was   by  1dm   called 
'Julia  and  Yictrix,'  and  he  redded  here 
tome  time  befote  he  went  to  Oidlm 


TABBAQONA — OATHSDRAL. 


425 


UndflT  Angutoi^  Turagona  became 
the  nridenoe  of  the  proprntor,  who 
had  under  hit  ordera  the  three  legatee 
who  goTemed  Spain.  The  dtjr  then 
extended  on  the  W.  from  the  weetem 
alopea  of  the  hill  on  which  it  etands  to 
the  hanks  of  the  Tnlde,  now  Francoli ; 
on  the  8.  to  the  Tery  eea ;  on  the  E. 
and  doee  to  the  Presidio^  were  the 
ThemuB,  and  the  templet  ooonpied  the 
•paoe  between  the  Balnarte  de  Ger- 
Tantee  and  the  Pnerta  de  San  Jntn. 
The  magnifloent  amphitheatre,  of  which 
bat  few  yeetigea  remain,  roee  not  far 
from  the  tea ;  on  the  eaetem  elopes  of 
the  hill  a  large  and  noble  stone  ascent 
led  from  the  latter  to  the  npper  dtjr, 
where  wu  situated  the  palace  of  An- 
gustos,  subsequently  cdled  (wh  j  ii 
ignored)  the  Castillo  de  Pilatos,  and  of 
which  little  remains  At  the  foot  of 
the  S.  walls  of  thii  palace  began  the 
spacious  drcus,  of  which  the  outline 
maj  still  be  traced,  which  was  some 
1212  ft  long  by  270  ft  wide.  Several 
houses  hare  been  built  with  its  ruins 
against  its  veiy  waUs,  and  the  area  has 
become  the  pteeent  Plasa  de  la  Fuente. 
The  oapitol  roee  on  the  site  of  the 
cathedral,  extending  as  ftf  as  the  Baln- 
arte de  San  Magin;  and  on  the  way 
ttom  the  ardhiepisoopal  palace  to  Puerta 
de  San  Antonio  there  are  still  three 
towers,  remnants  of  that  edifice ;  two 
of  them  embedded  in  the  wall,  and  the 
third  standing  isolated,  and,  though 
simple  and  plain,  stamped  with  ti^e 
mijestic  oharaoter  of  the  Boman  arehi.- 
tectnre.  Moeaics,  busts,  ooins,  frag- 
ments of  statues,  full  of  character,  often 
of  artistio  merit,  turn  up  almost  erery 
day,  some  to  be  reburied  with  seom  as 
useless  oljeots,  others  collected  care- 
frilly  by  local  amateurs,  or  placed  in  the 
prorindal  museo.  The  Goths,  on  their 
taking  Boman  Tarraoo,  did  not  over- 
look Uie  importance  of  its  position,  and 
mads  it  also  their  capital,  but  destroyed 


more  than  they  erected ;  and  the 
▼estiges  of  Boman  msgnificenoe  and 
driliiiation  were  finally  reduced  to  a 
heap  of  ruins  by  the  ayenghig  and  ig- 
norant Berbers  under  TarUL  Its  fil- 
ing into  the  hands  of  Christisns  did  not 
better  its  fate.  It  rose  and  prospered 
as  the  riyal  of  Bome  in  msgnifioenoe 
and  power;  it  stood  a  monument  of 
greatness  that  was  to  pass  away.  The 
dty  during  the  war  of  succesdon  wu 
captured  by  Lord  Peterborou^  It 
was,  in  Kay  1818,  besieged  by  General 
Suohet.  Tarragona  wu  at  that  moment 
fortified  by  400  guns,  18,000  men,  and 
the  En^ish  fieet  lying  in  the  harbour. 
Notwithstanding  such  dements  of  suo* 
coM^  and  although  the  resistance  of  the 
inhabitants  wu  so  great  and  fierce  that 
five  desperate  assaults  were  scarody 
sufficient^  the  town  surrendered  on  the 
28th,  and  wu  cruelly  sacked. 

Bishts.— The  CaUiedral,  Church  of 
San  Pablo^  Aqueduct,  and  Torre  de  los 
Esdpiones.    Bxourdons.    Prout-bits. 

CfllcliaL — It  is  not  known  by  whom 
and  when  it  wu  built  Tradition,  a 
substitute  and  often  a  due  to  history, 
designates  the  architect  u  represented 
by  a  statuette  placed  sgainst  a  pillar  in 
the  chapd  de  Santa  Luda,  and  well 
known  to  the  priests  of  the  cathedral  u 
'SanHipdlito.'  Tarragona  wu  granted 
in  1116  by  Bamon  Ber^ignerd  Grande 
to  San  Olagner,  who  began  a  church  in 
1128,  being  aided  in  this  by  a  Norman 
warrior,  Robert  Burdet,  d  Conde  Bo- 
berto,  who  left  shortly  after  for  Nor- 
mandy, whence  he  returned,  bringing 
woriunen,  architect^  and  funds.  The 
height  of  the  apse  contrasted  with  the 
oentral  nsTe,  the  style  of  the  pillars  and 
doors,  erince  traces  of  the  Norman 
influence.  The  works,  howerer,  pro- 
ceeded Tory  dowly,  for  by  a  bull  of 
Innocent  IL  (1181),  St  Olsguer  wu 
authorised  to  rain  frmds  for  thdr  com* 
pletion.     We  also  know,   new  facts 


426 


TABRiLQONA— OATHXDRAL. 


haTing  become  more  distinet,  that  in 
the  12th  oeotniy  Miestro  Fray  Ber- 
nardo was  the  architect,  and  woriced 
considerably  in  the  interior  of  the  ca- 
thedral; and  the  style,  architects'  names 
and  periods,  relatiye  to  the  different  por- 
tions of  the  church,  are  better  known, 
many  of  which  latter  were  added  in 
the  16th  centniy.  The  style  of  the 
whole  is,  therefore,  wanting  in  homo- 
geneity, bat  mostly  belongs  to  the  early 
Gothia 

JBsBUriar*~^AM  is  nsnally  the  case  in 
Catalnlka,  the  edifice  stands  on  a  plat- 
form, and  is  ascended  by  eighteen  grees 
or  steps  (grados),  hi^  and  Tory  steep. 
The  principal  fii^e  consists  of  a  wide^ 
somewhat  low,  and  deeply-recessed 
portal,  flanked  by  two  massiye  square 
piera^  crowned  by  pinnacles.  The 
bases  of  these  piers  are  decorated  with 
series  of  reliero  Gothic  archlets,  which 
run  along  the  lower  part  of  the  walls 
forming  the  recess.  Abore  these  are 
niches  fortwenty-one  statoes  of  Apostles 
and  Prophets  under  truncated  Qothic 
canopies^  rudely  executed  but  effectiye, 
and  of  a  ferruginous  colouring.  Host 
of  them  are  ^e  work*  of  Maestro  Bar- 
tolom^  1278  ;  the  rest  by  Jaime  Gas- 
tayls,  1875.  Sereral  dT  them  are 
wanting,  which  is  explained  by  a  tra- 
dition purporting  that— bored,  we  sup- 
pose, with  their  monotonous  and  fe- 
tiguing  attitude— one  of  them  quietly 
comes  down  and  leaTes  the  place  erery 
hundred  years.  The  ogire  is  but  slightly 
pointed,  free,  and  bold ;  the  entrance, 
made  of  three  large  blocks  of  marble^ 
is  diTided  by  a  pillar  bearing  a  Virgin 


*  Tbii  mtMiot  WM  to  iMTt  been,  vhea 
fiimhed,  a  very  ooUe  exanpU  of  the  esriy 
Gothic  Tchlttfifure^  InA^  like  noet  ffhtitrfW 
of  the  i5di  century,  this  one  wm  never  com* 
pletod*  Thns,  et^iftf^itw  to  the  orisinel  plens 
(aichtfit  of  dM  cethednl),  then  were  to  be 
elecinf  pineerlii  ciowuing  the  tipper  piers, 
and  tiie  front  was  to  form  a  high  pointed 


and  GhOd.  Under  this  statue,  rudely 
sculptured,  are  seroal  statuettes; 
amongst  them  one  of  Adam,  from 
whose  rib  a  now-effaoed  effigy  of  God 
is  drawing  a  tiny  Eve.  At  the  ex- 
tremity of  the  jambs  of  this  door  are 
sculptured  angel%  bearing  incensories^ 
and  over  the  lintel  are  sevaal  reUeros^ 
representing  the  Last  Judgment  Ob- 
serre  below  the  groups  of  devils  and 
the  damnati,  and  in  the  comen  of  the 
upper  portion  two  angels  sounding 
trumpets ;  some  of  the  figures  are  re- 
presented issuing  from  coffins,  and  all 
are  in  suppliant  attitude^  praying  to 
Ghrist,  whose  effigy  stands  under  a 
canopy  a  little  higher  up^  seated 
between  the  sun  and  moon  and  angels. 
Gyer  the  heads  of  the  figures  is  a  diort 
Gothic  inscription,  allusive  to  the  sub- 
ject The  ogival  window  over  the  door 
is  large  and  effective,  with  good  Gothio 
open  work.  The  large  rose-window  is 
glorious  and  most  elegant  §^  Ob- 
serve, on  the  left  and  right  of  principal 
door,  the  two  low  circular  Norman 
doors  with  double  arches  and  relievos^ 
representing  the  Dream  of  St  Joseph, 
and  Adoration  of  Kings. 

InUrior, — It  is  unique  in  its  genoal 
character,  exhibiting  an  admixture  of 
Norman-Gothic  witii  an  infbsion  of 
Moorish  gwto,  there  bein^  no  doubt^ 
several  Moorish  artists  employed  to- 
gether with  the  Normana.  It  is  cruci- 
form, divided  into  three  naves;  the 
oentral  higher  and  wider  than  the 
laterals  ;  the  roof  of  the  central  is  li^t 
and  elegant  The  transept  is  lofty,  and 
lighted  by  fine  painted  glass  windows 
by  Juan  Guas,  date  1571,  s(»newhat 
poor  of  colour.  The  whole  breathes 
mijesty  and  severity.  There  is  great 
soberness  of  decoration.  The  great 
defect  perhaps  is  in  the  treatment  of 
the  groining  of  the  nave  and  the  maa- 
sivenessof  the  piers  and  arches^  which 
produces  an  impression  ot  heaviness 


TABBAQONA — OATHKDRAL. 


427 


•nd  giTw  gjoominen  to  tlie  whole. 
TheM  piera  are  twenty  In  nimiber, 
formed  ofgroape  of  shAfte  Horo-Kor- 
man  in  style,  and  not  all  of  the  same 
hei^t  Most  of  the  capitals  are 
Moorish  work.  The  ogival  arches  are 
wanting  In  sreltiira,  and  mdely  de- 
signed. On  great  holidays  the  piers 
are  hnng  witib  magnificent  tapestry, 
with  Tery  enrioiis  eostomei^  and  admir- 
able oolonrin^  belonging  to  the  Italian 
school,  some  dating  as  far  back  as 
1500.  The  nare  is  lifted  by  large 
14th-centaiy  clerestory  windows  of 
three  lights. 

Bigh  ^ttor.— It  is  Gothic,  and  fall 
of'baasi  and  meisi  relierL  Theretablo^ 
in  Catalonian  marbles,  was  b^gon  by 
Pedro  Joan,  1426-36 ;  Guillen  de  la 
Mota  completed  it  The  snlijeets  re- 
present scenes  ih>m  the  life  of  Christ, 
and  the  martyrdom  of  Sta.  Teda,  the 
tutelar  of  Tarragona.  Its  chief  merit 
lies  in  the  microscopio  details  handled 
with  certain  delicacy  and  patience. 
1^  Obserre  the  insects  hanging  from 
the  intertwined  leaTes,  the  draperies  of 
the  statue  of  tutelar  degantly  folded 
and  pure,  and  wrou^t  with  a  minute- 
ness worthy  of  a  Cldnese  iTory-carrer. 
The  grouping  itself  is  not  bad.  On 
the  ride  of  the  Epistola  obserre  the 
tomb  and  hi^y-finished  details  of 
dress  of  Archbishop  D.  Juan  de  Ara- 
gon  (ob.  1884);  the  fire  figures  of 
saints  that  decorate  it  are  quite  out  of 
proportion.  At  the  sides  of  the  high 
altar  are  doors,  whose  degant  ogire  is 
endoeed  within  a  frame  elaborately 
sculptured. 

C^otr.^The  silleria  ii  well  carved, 
but  of  no  artistic  yalue ;  it  dates  1478, 
the  work  of  Fco.  Gomar  of  Zaragosa. 
The  Archbishop's  throne  is  excellent^ 
and  so  is  the  r^  The  oigan  is  Teiy 
good,  though,  as  it  dates  1660,  it  is 
now  somewhat  consumptiTe.  Obserre 
serenl  rery  eariy  tombs  behind  the  altar 


and  in  the  transept  The  best  ii  that 
of  Fenes,  ArchUshop  of  Tarragona. 
The  baptismal  fontwu  a  Boman  sarco- 
phagus found  in  the  ruins  of  the  palace 
of  Augustus.  The  riew  across  the  tran* 
sept  is  rery  striking ;  the  lantern  over 
the  crossing  is  octegonsl  and  only  26  ft 
abore  the  root 

Chapili^—Yew  are  not  diifigured  by 
ohurrigueresque,  as  the  custom  of  found- 
ing priTste  chapels  in  churches  is  com* 
paratiTely  modem.  That  of  Sta.  Teda 
is  a  medley  of  fricssseed  marbles,  mo- 
demindin  1778.  These  marbles  and 
Jaspers  are,  howerer,  rery  fine,  and 
desenre  the  minerBl<^giBt's  attention. 
The  sepulchre  of  Arohbiihop  Oliyella  is 
excellent 

OapiUa  M  SaerammUo,^A  Teiy  fine 
dasrical  portal ;  it  was  founded  in  1661, 
by  Archbishop  Agustin.  Obserre  his 
tomb,  16iH),  by  Pedro  Blay.  Obssrre 
the  roo(  ccmridered  to  be  Bomsn  wotk 
by  most  connoisseurs  ;  the  fine  marUe 
retablo^  with  paintings  by  Isaac  Hennas 
(1687). 

Cbpittd  ds  Is  iAiairfiaeioii,  also  called 
d4  lo$  Satirmf  as  being  under  the  pro- 
tection, we  belieTe,  of  the  TaQors* 
Guild.  Good  sculpturing,  elegant  win- 
dows. 

CUfiiUn  (l9ikmiUunf  yfork).^Thtj 
are  the  gem  of  the  cathedral,  and  among 
the  most  interesting  in  Spain  for  their 
style  and  detaiL  The  mtrame$  door  is 
purely  Byantine,  and  curious.  |^  Ob- 
serre in  the  centre  a  pillsr  dividing  it, 
which  rests  on  a  base  formed  of  inter- 
twined serpents,  whilst  its  most  strange 
capital  contains,  among  other  sul](iects, 
the  Adoration  of  Kingk  Orerthelintel 
abore  thii  are  the  symbols  of  the  Eyan* 
geUsti^  and  effigy  of  God  in  the  centre. 
The  caidtals  of  the  pillars  are  most 
curious ;  that  to  the  right  on  entering 
represents  the  three  kings  of  the  east, 
economically  aleepingthne  in  thessme 
bed,  and  wakened  early  by  a  winged 


428 


TABRAQONA— OATHEDRAL. 


Ttlet-de^liambre,  that  they  maj  rise 
tnd  proceed  on  their  journey  to  Beth- 
lehem. The  cloisters  consist  of  fonr 
bays,  each  some  186  ft  long,  with  290 
piUars.  Proceed  first  to  that  on  the 
rights  which  is  the  eastern  bay.  It  is 
formed  by  six  large  ogiyal  arches,  which 
rest,  together  with  those  of  the  groined 
roo(  on  bnttresses  ornamented  with 
groups  of  marble  pillarets  ;  each  arch  is 
dirided  half-way  into  three  small  round- 
arched  openings  divided  by  coupled 
shafts,  and  the  rest  of  the  well  above 
occupied  by  two  small  Gorman  win- 
dows within  the  ogive,  most  of  which 
retain  their  rich  filling-ln  with  Moorish 
ornaments.  The  cloisters  are  lighter 
and  more  elegant  than  the  church ;  the 
Korman  is  here  and  there  very  apparent 
Observe  the  cornice  of  chequer  and 
billet  mouldings,  the  zigzag  pall  and 
dog-teeth  pattern,  the  capitals  of  the 
piers  and  bases,  with  strange  subjects 
and  arabesques ;  some  imitating  palm- 
leaves,  others  Moorish  basket  or  corbel 
work.  Roman  capitals^  modified  and 
bsstardised,  others  formed  by  serpents 
twined ;  great  originality,  and  even 
delicacy  in  the  execution,  being  observed 
on  many.  i9*  Notice,  among  the  rest, 
the  relievos  on  the  a^ad  of  ^e  pillars 
that  correspond  to  the  third  cbcular 
arch  close  to  the  third  pier  or  maohon 
in  the  eastern  bay.  The  abacus  repre- 
sents two  scenes  of  the  same  subject 
In  the  one,  some  mice  are  gravely  going 
through  the  ceremony  of  Uie  ftinearal  of 
the  cat,  who  is  borne  on  a  hearse ;  the 
procession  Js  preceded  by  a  mouse  carry- 
ing the  hyssop  and  holy  water.  The 
eorpse^  stiff  and  motionless,  lies  there 
to  the  utter  exultation  of  the  enemy. 
In  the  second  part,  the  wily  cat,  who 
had  counterfeited  death,  springs  out  of 
the  hearse,  and  hunts  about  the  terrified 
undertaken^  mutes,  and  priests  of  the 
micy  tribe,  who  flyin  dl  directions.  I 
The  capitals  undttUkis  abacus  are  sculp*  I 


ture^with  cocks  fighting,  etc.  Opposite 
is  the  LavtUono,  indifferent ;  dose  tc 
this  capital,^  another  representing  battles 
between  gladiatora.  The  rest  are  hunt- 
ing scenes^  historical  and  satirical  repre- 
sentations—legends of  saints'  lives,  etc 
etc.  The  doister  garden  is  curioudy 
laid  out  into  Gothic  arches  and  beds  of 
ivy,  box,  etc.  Observe  on  a  wdl  the 
words  '6th  company'  written,  a  vestige 
of  the  passsge  of  Britidi  troops  here. 

Observe^  also,  the  outdde  of  the 
Capilla  de  las  Sastres.  At  the  extre- 
mity of  this  bay  or  gallery  is  the  Chap- 
ter-House, inwhosehall  many  cdebrated 
councils  have  taken  place.  The  interior 
is  indifferent ;  the  roo(  with  a  wsggon- 
vault  of  pointed  section,  very  effective ; 
the  entrance-door  Norman.  There  are 
several  vestiges  here  and  thepe  of  the 
palace  of  Augustus,  and  a  small  mosque 
or  mihrdb  with  a  Cufic  inscription, 
built  A.D.  060,  and  the  stones  used  to 
build  the  doister  are  mostly  Roman, 
and  of  the  former  edificei  Observe 
from  the  garden  the  exterior  decoration 
and  fiorm  of  doisters,  that  of  Ghapd 
de  las  Sastres  with  pinnades  and  open- 
woriced  gaUery,  the  fortress  like  apse^ 
etc. 

The  Ghapd  dd  Chrjnu  CkHiti  is  a 
sort  of  Escorial,  and  contains  the  sshes^ 
latdy  removed  ttcm  Poblet,  of  sevend 
mighty  kings  and  queens  of  Aragon. 
Here,  in  a  plain  wooden  coffin,  rests,  at 
last,  Don  Jayme  d  Conquistador,  the 
great  hero  of  Catalufta  (1276),  the  son 
of  Pedro  I.  the  Catholic,  and  Marie 
de  Montpellier.  The  many  and  bdd 
conquests  of  this  Catdonian  Cid  (that 
of  Ydencia,  Murda,  Mijoroa,  etc) 
are  all  poems.  He  was  one  of  the  first 
sovereigns  who  established  standing 
armies  in  Europe,  and,  among  other 
wise  institutions,  the  munidpd  body  of 
Barodona,  called  d  Gonsqo  de  los 
Giento,  was  his  work.  He  was  on  his 
way  to  the  monasteiy  of  Poblsi  to  b»- 


TARRAGONA — ^EXOURSIONa 


429 


oome  A  monk,  when  he  died  «t  Yalenda, 
Julj  27,  1276.  On  his  death-bed  he 
confided  hie  dearest  jewel,  the  goodly 
sword,  la  Tixona,  to  Don  Pedro,  in 
whose  faToor  he  had  already  abdicated 
that  same  year  at  Alcira.* 

There  are  no  good  pictores  In  the 
cathedral,  saTe  some  V iladomats  in  the 
Chapel  de  la  Concepdon.  The  stained 
glass  is  inferior  here  to  that  of  earlier 
times,  for  the  art  began  to  degenerate 
abont  the  middle  of  the  16th  centory, 
when  it  was  pat  np.  Obsenre^  how- 
eyer,  the  transept  rose-windows,  repre- 
senting to  the  right  St  John,  to  left 
the  Virgin.  The  porple  and  orange 
anes  are  still  rich  and  deep.  The  enor- 
mous choral-books  may  be  looked  at, 
date  end  of  the  16th  and  beginning  of 
the  17th  centuries,  most  and  the  best 
by  the  female  Tarragonesa  illominator, 
Angelica.  The  capitals  are  indifferently 
derigned.  The  principal  merit  lies  in 
the  gorgeous  colouring. 


Stm  PMo  (Paul's)  is  situated  behind 
the  cathedral,  and  said  to  ha^e  been 
bunt  by  the  apostle  ;  at  all  events,  it 
is  most  ancient,  a  plain  iafade,  with  a 
lofty  pillar  at  each  side ;  Korman  style. 

*  TlMpofftnitwIuchisdnwBorthatpopahr 
hcro  in  a  Quabn  chronicle  of  the  end  d  the 
14th  century  is  the  tnie  definition  of  the  Spanish 
nedisTal  prince,  as  this  one  was^  aq4  »  the 
people  liked  them  aO  to  he.  Fint  conies  the 
site.  All  heroes  being  giants  (those  of  Homer, 
and  of  the  Bible),  and  aO  hsndsome,  therdbra 
Don  Jayroe  was,  of  course, '  Lo  pus  beB  horn 
•del  mon,  4  era  maior  que  aim  horn  un  grsn 
paha:*  which  reminds  one  of  lfolibe*s'MAiectn 
MalgrtfLui:'  *  Un  grand  homme  I  ah  od,  tout 
9a  plus  haut  que  moil'  A  hero,  besides,  must 
needs  be  bold,  and  breathe  only  for  war,  be  all 
generosity  and  aMidful,/cn)r»vm^i&.  Don 
Jayase,  therefore,  'era  molt  ardit,  4  prom  de 
ses  armes,  4  krch  de  doner,  4  agradable  h  lota 
gent,  4  molt  miseiieotdios :'  and,  above  aO,  to 
h6  popular,  he  most  hate  and  light  the  ab- 
horred infidel  1  '4  era  lot  son  cor  4  savolsniat 
de  garner  tots  lemps  ah  ^«msA«w /* 


Sta,  2Ve2a,  dose  by;  of  18th  century; 
▼ery  interesting^  as  an  historical  datum 
for  architects. 

The  walls  dais  of  the  Roman  time  ; 
the  foundations,  now  mostly  buried,  are 
Carthaginian.  They  arefiUlof  oharao- 
ter. 

Xxonrsions  maybe  made  from  Tsrra- 
gona  to  the  Boman  aquedud,  1  league^ 
14  hr.  Take  a  tartana  on  springi,  at 
hotel,  60r.  Follow  the  LMda  road. 
The  Fort  and  Bastion  del  OUto^  the 
scene  of  fierce  resistance  during  Suohet's 
si^ge,  is  left  on  the  right ;  the  road  is 
dreary  and  desolate,  aloes  beginning  to 
usher  in  the  African  yegetation  of  the 
south.  The  aqueduct,  now  ruined, 
stands  picturesquely  in  a  small  ralley 
amid  the  fan-like  palmito,  the  wild 
thyme  and  sweet-scented  rosemary,  and 
some^  but  rare,  i^e-trees.  The  bridge 
is  now  called  Puente  de  las  Terreraa, 
and  carried  the  water  of  the  Gayi  from 
the  Pont  d'  Armentara,  by  Y illairodona, 
partly  abore  and  partly  under  ground, 
the  distance  of  20  m.  It  consirts  of 
two  rows  of  arches,  the  lower  of  eleren 
arches^  and  that  abore  of  twenty-fire ; 
its  large  square  stones  hewn  regularly 
together. 


Width  of  piers  at  the  base  ss 

Width  under  the  impost    .  6| 

^lan  of  arches  between  piers  ss^ 

Length  01  bridge       ...  870 

Height  from  lower  part  of  level  83I 

One  can  cross  it  easily,  though  not 
on  horseback  i^d  at  full  canter,  as  a 
local  hippie  hero  did  some  time  since. 
The  Tiew  from  it  is  extensive  ;  Reus  is 
seen  in  the  distance,  the  Franeali  close 
by,  and  ConstantL  It  was  ii^ured  by 
the  Moors,  strange  as  it  may  appear 
from  such  hydraulists,  and  repaired 
centuries  after  by  Archbishops  Joaquin 
deSantiyandeValdiTielaoand  Armalkac^ 
to  be  again  destroyed  by  Suchet 

1.  Another  excursion  from  Tarragona 
is  to  Tcm  d$  Urn  Btdpumu, — 1  lesgoc 


430 


TOLEDO — HOTELS. 


N.W.,  mmt  oonreyftnoe,  faret, '  and 
time.  Upon  a  laige  aqnare  baae  riaei  a 
monoment  formed  by  linge  boalden, 
about  80  ft  high.  On  the  aide  towardi 
the  tea  are  two  flgnrea,  each  rising  ona 
amall  pedestal,  their  heads  resthog  in 
their  hands^  and  the  countenance  ez- 
pressiye  of  grie(  penonifying  Sorrow. 
The  inscription  is  illegible^  the  word 
P^rpehio,  a  mockery  now,  being  alone 
deciphered.  That  this  is  the  tomb  of 
the  Scipios,  neither  documents  nor  tra- 
ditions inform  us ;  they  are  half-effaced 
'  footprints  on  the  sands  of  time,'  and  a 
riddle.  The  yiewof  the  dtyon  returning 
is  Tery  fine,  and  will  tempt  the  artiit 


The  produce  of  el  Oampo  de  Ttart^ 
gona  is  great  and  Taried— maixe,  com, 
fruity  and  the  excellent  sweet  and  dry 
grape  with  which  the  Yino  de  Pobledas 
is  madfl^  which,  thon^  not  Tery  good 
(aunque  eabe  m^joria),  is  probably 
better  than  that  made  in  Pliny  and 
Martial's  time,  and  which,  according 
to  both  (N.  H.  ziy.  16,  Mart  ziiL  118), 
rivalled  the  Falemian,  which  modem 
d^gustateurs  would  now  pronounce 
'  poor  stuff;' but  that  of  el  Priorato  is 
first-rate,  and  may  be  compared  to  any 
in  Catalufia.  There  are  eonveyanoes  to 
Friaraio,  9  hrs.,  to  Falset  by  dU., 
whence  to  Priorato  riding. 


TOLEDO. 


Capital  of  prorince  of  same  name ; 
population  17,668;  an  archbishopric, 
having  for  suffragans,  Madrid,  Cordova, 
Jaen,  Cartagena,  Cuenca,  Siguenza,  Se- 
govia, Osma,  and  Yalladolid. 

Boutes  and  Oonv. — Ist  From  Ma- 
drid by  nul:  time  2f  hrs.;  fares,  1st 
d.,  89r.  76o. ;  2d  cl.,  80r.  75c. ;  distance 
90  kil.  J^.^.— Travellers  intending  to 
continue  to  the  south  may  take  t^eir 
places,  on  the  day  they  leave  Toledo,  as 
iar  only  ss  Castillejo,  and  there  wait  for 
trains,  etc  For  details  of  route,  see  Ma- 
drid from  Faieneia,  The  station  is  close 
to  bridge  of  Alcantara,  and  \  hr.'s  walk 
to  the  hoteL  Omnibuses  in  attendance, 
which  take  travellers  either  to  Hotel 
Lino  or  their  office  in  Calle  Ancha; 
fares,  2r. ;  and  4r.  for  the  largest  port- 
manteau, a  tariff  regulated  according  to 
weight  2d.  From  Cordova,  Alicante, 
Valencia,  Granada,  etc.  (South),  stop 
at  Castillejo,  whence,  in  f  hr.,  to  To- 
leda  Trains  in  attendance,  correspond- 
ing with  the  express  trains.  8d.  From 
or  to  Talavera  de  la  Reyna,  by  diL  from 
Madrid,  not  recommended  to  passing 
tourists.      4th.    From  or  to   Seville 


throng  Almaden,  riding ;  not  recom- 
mended. 

Hotals  not  very  good.  The  least 
bad  is  Fonda  de  lino ;  charges,  86r.  to 
60r.  a-day;  no  table  d'hOte.  An  in- 
telligent cicerone  (inter|wete),  who 
speaks  French,  20r.  a-day.  The  other 
Fondas  are  not  to  be  thought  ot  As 
for  lodgings,  we  have  heard  of  a  Casa 
de  Huespedes,  kept  by  one  Don  Lean- 
dro  Abad,  Plasuela  del  Homo,  but  have 
no  personal  experience  to  offer. 

OUmate.— Owing  to  its  elevation, 
treeless  subiurbs  and  country  around, 
the  climate  ii  ftf  from  being  either  plea- 
sant or  wholesome ;  there  is  great  heat 
in  summer,  and  Siberian  cold  winds  blow 
in  winter.  The  average*  mortality  is 
1*85.  Plantations  are  now  slowly  be- 
ginning on  the  river-meadows  and 
skirts  of  the  town,  and  water  has  been 
recently  brought,  which  will  add  to  the 
health  of  the  inhabitants. 

General  Description,  Aspedt  iU, — 
Though  now  fallen  so  low  ss  to  rank 
among  the  last  of  provincial  towns, 
Imperial  Toledo— the  beloved  city  of 
the  Goth,  the  Toledoth  of  the  Jew,  who 


TOLKDO-^—THB  CITY. 


43] 


shared  its  weslUi  with  the  Moor,  and 
with  him  added  to  its  aplendour,  and 
finally  the  Court  and  residaice  of  Charles 
y.,  the  master  of  the  world,  «{ CViar— . 
hears  still  a  seal  of  grandeor  and  pride, 
maasiveness  and  eagle-dominion,  well 
hefitting  that  rook-boilt  eyry  from 
which  the  soaring  watchful  spirit  of 
Charles  Y.  was  wont  to  sweep  across 
the  world  in  search  of  new  realms  and 
^ory.  Upstart  Madrid,  raised  In  a 
morbid,  hoar  to  suit  the  purpose  of  a 
selfish  TOW,  is  common-place  and  pro- 
Tindal-looking;  nothing  bat  the  laigest 
Tillage  in  Spain.  ValladoUd,  that 
other  capital  of  the  past,  is  mean  in 
appearance,  monomentless^  ill  sitaated, 
a  shifting  tent  pitched  hf  the  roTing 
monarchy  on  a  wind-Uown  plain,  and 
jastly  abandoned  to  the  corn-grower. 
Serille  itself^  notwithstanding  its  Gua- 
dalqniTir  and  wondrous  edifices,  cannot 
compete  with  Toledo  for  lordly  sitos; 
tion,  aspect,  and  metropolitan  charac- 
ter. Built  on  a  high  rock,  almost  per- 
pendicular on  all  sidea  sstc  where  it 
slopes  towards  the  Tagus,  as  if  intended 
for  the  throne  of  Hercules,  by  whom, 
legends  assert,  it  wu  founded,  Toledo 
is  seen  from  a  great  distance  rising 
migestically,  with  its  stone  sombre- 
looking  edifices  spreading  terrace-like 
one  aboTS  the  other ;  whilst  the  Tagus 
winds  its  way  beneatii  the  waUs,  along 
and  through  the  horseshoe  formed  by 
the  Prensa  del  Corregidor  and  MilL  del 
Capitulo,  and  then  flows  on  through  the 
now  treeless  Vega,  once  so  densely  plant- 
ed with  the  mulberry  and  palm. 

Toledo  is  a  museum,  the  Pompeii  of 
Spain,  and  its  former  200,000  iiJiabit- 
ants  seem  to  be  taking  their  siesta 
rather  than  to  hsTe  departed  from  it  for 
CTer.  Its  steepleless  churches,  crumb- 
ling palaces,  dilapidated  walls,  are  so 
picturesquely  grouped,  haTC  such  indi- 
Tiduality,  colouring,  and  relief^  that  it 
seems  ss  if  some  great  painter,  say 


SalTator  Rosa  or  Turner,  had  been 
allowed  to  realise  here  the  Irishman's 
idea  of  htikUng  ruins.  It  is  striking 
at  all  hoars,  and  from  all  points  of 
Tiew ;  but  the  tableau  is  grander  still 
from  the  y^ga  below,  and  at  sunset, 
which  is  more  in  luurmony  with  the 
feelings  raised  by  the  widowed  dty  of 
the  Qoth;  for  then,  when  twilight 
smooths  away  the  hard  outlines  of 
the  emaciated  corpse  and  oonceals  the 
many  gaping  scars  inflicted  by  time 
and  man,  the  mssses  come  out  tinged 
by  the  last  rays  of  the  sun  with  roseate 
hues  and  rich  warm  browns,  with 
fufficient  depth  giTen  to  the  shadows 
to  produce  a  mysterious,  grand,  stem, 
and  solemn  Tision  of  the  past  There 
is  then  about  the  whole  scene  the 
silence  of  a  tomb^  the  solitude  that 
attends  misfortune^  and  the  calm  of 
fate  itselt  Indeed,  Toledo,  which  has 
seen  so  many  nations^  once  leading 
ciTilisation,  bend  their  knee  before  her, 
and  then  pass  away,  lies  neglected  by 
their  heir^  and  forgotten  by  all  ssts 
that  immortal  race  of  painters,  anti- 
quaries, and  poets,  with  whom  the  past 
is  a  religion,  and  CTery  monument  a 
brilliant  page  and  a  deep  lesson. 

Toledo  abounds  with  prout-bits, 
nooks  and  oomers  most  iuTaluable  to 
the  painter,  and  as  yet  but  little  known 
or  inaccurately  rendered.*  The  streets 
are  steeps  narrow,  and  winding;  like 
all  those  made  by  the  Moor.  The 
houses  are  low,  made  of  stone^  col- 
oured by  the  hue  of  flTe  and  six  cen- 
turies, somewhat  sombre  and  serere, 
with  patios  and  other  Oriental  charac- 
teristics, which  the  Christians  adopted 
after  the  expulsion  of  the  Arabs--an 
exception  almost  general  in  Spain, 
for,  apart  from  the  distaste  for  any  art 
practised  by  the  infidel,  Spaniards  haTs 
not  only  never  understood  the  beauty 
and  excellences  of  the  Moorish  style, 
but  haTC  always  spoken  contemptn- 


432 


TOLEDO — nS  HISTORT. 


oailj  of  it  Iftfiana,  wbo^  jmt  Uat, 
holdi  tbeir  cnitomi  in  Ahorrenoe,  caLb 
the  Moon  '  poco  euriosos  en  in  manerm 
de  edificar  j  en  todo  genero  de  primor/ 
and  Piaa  aaierU  that  Toledo  will  never 
leooTer  from  the  treatment  it  reoei?ed 
at  the  hands  of  the  Hoon.  And  yet, 
had  they  been  allowed  to  remain  longer, 
the  Moors  wonld  hare  made  Toledo  a 
second  Oranada,  and  carried  their  dril- 
isation  into  the  heart  of  the  Castilea. 
One  of  their  poets  ezdaims,  'Toledo 
surpasses  in  beauty  the  most  extrava- 
gant descriptions ;  she  ii,  indeed,  the 
city  of  pleasures  and  delights.  Ood  has 
lavished  upon  her  all  stnis  of  orna- 
ments ;  he  has  given  her  walls  for  a 
turban,  a  river  for  her  girdle,  and  the 
branches  of  trees  for  stars.' 

Preserving  but  little  of  the  Roman 
period,  not  much  more  of  the  Gothic, 
Toledo  is  especially  rich  In  edifices  of 
the  Moorish  style,  not  all  built  tff  the 
Moor%  but,  as  said  before,  adopted  by 
the  CsstOians  of  the  14th,  15th,  and 
16th  centuries.  The  Gothic  has  some 
msgnificent  exsmples  also,  and  its 
combinations  with  the  Saracenic  and 
plateresque  are  to  be  studied  in  many 
churches,  private  housei^  and  public 
buildings.  The  city  has  been  lucky 
enough  to  avoid  the  influence  of  the 
Graco-Roman  period,  although  it  has 
not  escaped  frtnn  the  churrigueresque, 
by  whidi  many  of  its  houses  and 
churches  are  disfigured. 

The  Spanish  spoken  at  Toledo  is 
considered  the  purest,  and  some  Spanish 
writen  are  of  opinion  that  the  Spanish 
rom(me$  came  to  light  under  the  sopor- 
tales  (arcades)  of  the  Zocodover,  arising 
from  and  being  formed  by  the  mixture 
of  the  many  tongues  then  spoken  here. 
Alfonso  Z.  decided  by  a  law  that,  in 
cases  of  doubt,  the  Toledaa  pronun- 
ciation and  interpretation  of  the  sense 
of  words  should  prevail.  One  of  the 
charaeteristics  is  the  tuHl  and  broad 


pronunciation  of  every  syUftble,  in 
which  the  Toledanos  chiefly  differ 
from  their  other  Castilian  paimMum— 
viz.,  prado  is  abbreviated  by  Madri* 
lenians  into  prao,  $oldado  into  mMaa^ 
and  the  like.  Patois  does  not  exirt  in 
the  Osstiles,  and  the  peasant  speaks  as 
good  Spanish,  often  better,  than  the 
nobleman.  The  very  few  exceptions 
are  found  only  in  the  pronunciation  of 
some  words — mssmo  formwnM,  mt  for 
st>^  /of  for  /or,  etc  ;  the  Arabic, 
which  contributed  so  much  to  the 
formation  of  the  language^  survived 
at  Toledo  long  after  Uie  conquest  by 
the  Osstilians,  and  was  adopted  in 
public  documents,  and  even  on  medals 
and  coins. 

iZf  J7utory._If  we  are  to  beliew 
the  bombastic  early  historisns,  or  rather 
chronidera,  of  Toledo^  who  divided 
the  hill  on  which  the  dty  stands  into 
seven  imsginary  ones  to  sssimilate  its 
dtuation  to  that  of  Rome^  the  origin 
of  this  dty  is  contemporary,  at  least, 
with  the  creation  of  tiie  world.  The 
Cronica  General  and  Mosen  Diego 
Yalera,  and  others,  mention  most 
gravdy  the  names  of  King  Tartns, 
Rocas,  Pyrrhus,  and  the  Greeks,  who 
came  here  to  found  a  colony,  '  por  vik 
de  Inglaterra,'  as  'tout  chemin  m^ne  i 
Rome.'  Othera  interpret  it  from  Tole- 
doth,  the  Hebrew  *Oity  of  Genera- 
tions'; some  will  have  it  derived  from 
Thai,  height  in  Hebrew,  whence  atal- 
lUi  in  Arabic  and  Spanish,  being 
Atalaya,  a  place  of  look-out;  tallkh,  a 
prefix  applied  to  many  Spanish  dties — 
the  Talaverssi  etc  Nebuchadnenar, 
Hercules,  and  Thubal,  are  discussed  at 
great  length,  whether  they  wera  or  not 
the  founder^  in  the  chronicles  of  that 
happy  age  when  time  was  anything 
but  money,  people  credulous,  and  the 
doisten  cool  and  shady.  Archbishop 
Don  Rodrigo  assigns  the  foundation 
of  the  dty,  146  B.a,  to  the  Roman 


TOLEDO— ITS  mSTORT. 


433 


Gontals  Tolemon  and  Bratua,  althon^ 
it  had  already  been  taken  forty-aiz 
yeaia  before  by  Folirhia  Nobilior  (u.a 
660,  B.a  192),  when  it  waa  already, 
aaya  Liyy,  '  parra  orba,  aed  looo  mu- 
nita'  (LiTy,  lib.  85^  cap.  zzii;  and 
aame  book,  oapu  TiL)  Coina  hare  been 
fbnnd  which  were  ataok  here,  and  date 
of  the  Boman  Bepnblio — ^they  repre- 
aent  a  horaeman  idth  a  lance  In  reat^ 
and  the  word  *  Tole  .  *.  . ;'  bat  none 
are  extant  of  the  Empire,  according  to 
Floras,  who  deniea  it  erer  waa  a 
Cohnia.  The  many  alaba,  with  In- 
acriptiona,  modela»  etc,  that  might 
anggeat  the  oontrwy,  were  foiged  by 
that  onriona  tribe  of  paendo-antiqaaiiea 
of  the  16th  centory  who  loat  ao  moch 
time,  money,  and  erudition  in  tiying 
to  eult  the  antiquity  and  priril^gea  of 
eccleaiaatical  property,  in  which  many 
were  peraonally  intereated,  and  whoae 
crtmiepfMf  once  inundated  all  Spain. 
Bat  in  the  mythical  Hercnlea  we  may 
aee  the  Phmnician  founder  of  a  amall 
colony,  which  waa  augmented  and 
abaorbed  by  the  Jewa,  who  fled  to 
Spain  after  the  fall  of  Jeruaalem,  and 
peopled  ao  many  Fhcenidan  ooloniee. 
Chriatianity  waa  introduced  into  Toledo 
by  St  Eugeniua,  a  diadple  and  friend 
of  St  Daiia,  whoae  body  waa  much 
aooght  after — Alfonao  YII.  already 
obtaining  an  arm,  in  the  12th  century, 
and  Philip  XL,  a  atUl  greedier  colleetor, 
the  whole  body.  The  liat  of  ita 
bishopa  bcgina  to  hare  aome  regularity 
only  from  the  Peace  of  Oonatantine, 
Toledo  never  ceaaing  hence  to  be  a 
great  Leritical  centre,  and  choaen  by 
Uie  Spaniah  Church  for  the  aeat  of  ita 
celebrated  councila,  the  firat  of  which 
waa  held  in  400  A.a  The  Goth  Leo- 
Tigild  (569  A.a)  remoTed  hia  court 
from  Serille  to  Toledo,  which  became 
the  ci^tal  of  Gothic  Spain ;  the 
dynaaty  waa  conaolidated  by  hia  auc- 
Recaredo^  who  (586)  eatabliahed 

2 


the  Catholic  faith  over  the  hitiierto 
preralent  Arianiam,  that  Protaatant- 
iam  of  bygone  agea.  The  Gotha  now 
reigned  ererywhere ;  the  Bomana  of 
the  Lower  Empire  no  longer  held  the 
coaata  and  porta  of  the  Mediterranean. 
Under  the  Gotha,  and  eapeoially  in 
Wamba'a  reign  (678),  Toledo  became 
Tery  proaperoua  and  important,  and 
ita  wealth  enoimoua,  aa  may  be 
gathered  from  the  nature  of  the  apoil 
that  fell  into  the  Moora'  handa  not 
long  after.  But  under  Wamba,  the 
great  benefactor  of  Toledo^  ita  glory 
began  alao  to  decline  through  the 
alow  but  certain  diaiolution  of  that 
empire,  canaed  by  the .  reiy  nature 
of  the  Gothic  legiaktion.-  Wamba 
recovered  from  the  poiaon*giTen  to  him 
by  Enrigiua,  only  to  leare  to  the  uaurper 
the  enjoyment  of  a  crown  he  had  not 
aought,  and  withdrew  to  the  doiater  of 
Pampliego,  where  he  died  a  monk,  one 
of  the  many  monarclia  who^  in  Spain 
more  than  in  any  other  country,  hare 
changed  the  purple  for  the  cowl,  and  at 
that  period  of  life  and  glory  when  meet 
actora  do  not  know  how  to  retire  oppor- 
tunely from  the  atage.  The  corruption 
of  Witisa'a  court,  the  diaaolntaneaa  of 
the  deigy,  of  which  the  third  and  fourth 
canona  of  the  16th  council  gire.ua  the 
detaila,  were  ao  many  cauaea  of  the 
downfiill  of  the  monarchy,  to  which 
muat  be  added,  alao  the  long-propoeed 
rerolt  of  the  Jewa,  provoked  by  the  in- 
tolerant and  cruel  decreea  of  Siaebute 
and  other  Gothic  kinga,  and  the  coun- 
dla,  the  16th  and  17th,  which  finally 
confiacated  their  property  and  made 
them  alavea,  drove  them  to  revolt,  and 
by  their  aecret  intelligenoe  with  the 
Berbera,  paved  the  way  for  the  Moor, 
with  whom  he  divided,  aa  uaual,  the 
apoUa.  Roderick  iaaned  now  by  the. 
gatea  of  Toledo  to  meet  the  Muaralman 
at  Guadalfte,  dreeaed  in  gold  and  purple, 
and  atanding  in  his  ivory  chariot,  and 
F 


434 


TOLEDO— ITS  HISTORY. 


foDowed  hf  waTerfaig  legions,  and  hif 
defett  and  death  sealed  1^  fate  of  the 
Gothic  empire.  In  the  apring  of  712, 
Tktik  airiTed  before  Toledo^  and  in 
Karoh  of  that  aame  year,  daring  the 
feetiTitieB  of  the  Lent  (and  not  Palm 
Sunday,  at  the  Todenae  and  others  er- 
roneously stateX  the  Jews  opened  the 
gates  of  the  city.  Many,  most  indeed, 
of  TIrik's  sdldiers  were  Jew%  or  rather 
MaimnUi,  as  the  Spaniards  called  them, 
and  desoendanta  of  those  Yemenite 
tribes  which,  three  oentories  before  Solo- 
mon, had  embraced  the  Jewish  religion 
and  spread  saboeqnently  orer  Western 
Africa,  and  became  part  and  portion  of 
the  Berbers.  Some  did  also  follow, 
thoD^  probably  diigoised  or  adul- 
terated, thi  Christian  religion,  and 
others  the  dogma  of  Zoroaster.  Thns 
many  of  the  Arab  names  were  derired 
from  the  Hebrew :— Yaooubwas  Jaoob ; 
Ibrahim,  Abraham;  Ynssdf,  Joseph; 
Moossa,  Moses ;  Hsio^n,  Aaron ;  Aynb, 
Job;  Snleyman,  Solomon,  eta  All 
these  similarities  explain,  moreorer,  the 
tolerance  of  the  conquerors  towards  the 
conquered,  especially  in  their  laws ;  but 
this  tolerance  turned  soon  into  persecu- 
tion, when  the  rigid  and  ezclusi?ely 
Mohammedan  Arabs  arriTcd ;  the  im- 
portance of  Toledo  decreased  when  Oor- 
dora  became  the  court  and  capital  of  the 
Khalifate,  founded  by  Abdur-r-rhamin ; 
and  the  Mosarabs  and  Jews  once  more 
began  a  series  of  rerolts,  which  pared 
the  way  to  the  capture  (May  25,  1086) 
of  their  city  by  Alfonso  YL,  who  took 
the  title  pf  Emperor. 

The  ibst  King  of  Spain  styled  'Ca- 
tholic' was  Becared,  when  he  alijured 
Arianism  from  political  principles.  'His 
Mi^jesty '  was  adopted  by  Chariea  Y. 

Toledo  now  r^^Uned  its  former  im- 
portance—was consecrated  as  the  eccle- 
siastical head,  primateof  all  Spain,  and 
so  loyal  to  the  throne  that  in  a  matter 
oifrimado,  or  precedence  in  Cortes,  the 


King  settled  the  diiKculty  by  saying, 
'Let  Burgos  speak  first ;  I  will  speak 
for  Toledo^  which  will  do  what  I  wish.' 
For  the  armorial  of  the  dty  was  substi- 
tuted the  soTereign's  personal  one^  the 
Cfid  was  named  the  Alcaide  of  the  dty, 
and  the  archbiriiopric  was  giTen.  to  a 
French  monk,  called  Bernard,  who  had 
just  established  the  Cluny  Order  at  S*- 
hagun.  The  walls  were  repaired,  palaces 
built ;  and  so  elated  was  the  King  with 
his  triumphs  that  he  attempted  more 
than  his  means  allowedhim— wasrouted 
by  the  Moor  ssTeral  times,  especiaUy  at 
Zalakidi— 4ost  his  son  and  the  flower  of 
Castilian  nobility  at  Nelis ;  and  at  his 
death,  the  Moor  besieged  Toledo^  which 
he  would  hsTC  recoTcred  had  it  not 
been  defended  by  that  same  Archbishop 
Bernard  and  Alrar  FaAes.  The  names 
of  Alfonso  el  Batallador  (lY.),  Pedro  el 
Cruel,  and  the  fair  Maria  de  Padilla, 
Enrique  of  Trastamara,  Ferdinand  and 
Isabella,  are  associated  with  manycTent- 
M  pages  of  Toledan  history.  About 
the  beginning  of  the  19th  century,  To- 
ledo reached  the  acme  of  proaperity. 
Buildings  rose  in  all  directions,  Uie  no- 
bUity  lired  here ;  and  the  court  of  its 
kings  was  unequalled  in  splendour  sare 
by  that  of  the  imptnummwi^^tna,  the 
ArsoUspodo.  The  archbishops  of  To- 
ledo were  a  race  of  mitred  kings ;  they 
had  monopolised  all  the  learning  of  the 
age^  hence  their  omnipotent  power  and 
influence.  They  were  great  ^ike  in  the 
arts  of  war  as  in  those  of  peace,  headed 
armies  and  won  battlea,  drew  up  charts 
and  codes,  built  cathedrals  and  bridges, 
founded  unirersities,  colleges^  and  li- 
braries—the Rodrigos^  Fonsecas^  Teno- 
rios,  Mendoas,  Ximenes*,  Tarera^  and 
Lorenianas,  were  the  real  lords  of  To- 
ledo, and  the  third  kktg$t  as  some  of 
them  were  designateil  Theb  wealth 
waa  enormous.  NaTagiero^  Yenetian 
ambassador  to  Charles  Y.,  teDs  us  that 
the  rerenue  of  the  Archbidiop  amount- 


TOLEDO — 8IOHT-8EBINO. 


435 


ed  then  (1624)  to  80,000  dnoata,  that  of 
the  Arohideeooii  to  0000,  end  the  ordi- 
luurj  cleigy  to  900 ;  'dimodo^'heedds, 
'  che  i  pedioni  di  Toledo^  e  delle  donne 
pnooipo^  tono  i  Preti,  i  quali  honofo 
baoniMime  caee,  e  trionfano^  daadosi  la 
mi^or  rita  del  mondo  tenia  che  alcnno 
gli  riprenda,'  bat  the  latter  apecially 
applied  to  tiie  Unoer  dergj,  erer  igno- 
rant and  indolent  to  thia  daj,  and 
worthy  then,  at  mnch  at  in  the  darker 
,  agei  from  the  7th  to  the  11th  oentnriei, 
of  Alanna*  &oetioiia  remark,  'Potioa 
dediti  gulm  qoam  ^oomb  ;  potina  ooUi- 
gont  libra$  qoam  l^gont  libroa;  libentioa 
intaentnr  Martham  qoam  Maronm  ; 
malnnt  l^gere  in  ja/moiie,  qnam  in  Sa- 
lomone'  ^  Art  Predicat  api  Leben( 
Dinert,  toL  a  p.  21),  of  which  the 
Span,  prorerb  ia  bat  a  vaHamU  which 
thua  anma  np  the  felicity  of  a  cum,  'La 
olla,8amtBa,  janDoftaLoiaa.'  In  1700 
the  rente  of  tiie  Arohbiahopric  were  eren 
greater.  In  the  corioua  and  troat- 
worthy,  though  in  Spain  prokibida^ 
*yita  di  Oiaana'CAmaterdam,  1700), 
Leti  tella  na  that  it  had  *di  rendiUan- 
noale  800  mila  aeadi ;  qnando  h  caidi- 
nale  (anoh  aa  Cardinal  de  Borbon)  aegli 
laacia  Qoder  tutta,  ma  qnando  i  altro 
Prelato  ioli  oento  mila,  e  il  reato,  raala 
benefieio  del  Be,'  that  of  the  chapter, 
then,  waa  of  200,000  acndi 

Jnana  le  Loca  was  bom  here  1470, 
and  waa  alao  proclaimed  in  the  Cathe- 
dral jointly  with  her  hnaband.  May  22, 
1602.  Bat  one  of  the  meet  diamatio 
pages  of  the  history  of  Toledo^  aa  also 
of  the  whole  of  Spain,  was  the  rising 
of  the  Comonidades^  of  which  this  city 
waa  the  aeat  and  cradle.  This  insnrreo- 
tion,  to  which  some  hare  ascribed  most 
erroneoosly  a  ai^rit  of  demoerapy,  a 
modem  word  and  thin^^  was  nothing 
bat  the  resiitanoe  of  the  nobility  and 
clergy  to  the  stranger— that  natural  foe 
of  early  nations  and  especial  bogbear  of 
the  children-peoples  of  the  sonth  and 


east ;  the  armed  opposition  of  no$oiro$ 
(rednoed  to  yo  when  tiie  horixon  is  ckmd- 
less)  to  the  Aostriana  and  Flemiah. 

In  the  Conrocatoria,  sent  by  Toledo 
aa  a  watchword  to  the  rest  of  Spain, 
among  theaeven  pecados,  sinsorplagoes, 
of  Spain,  we  read  >—*  Lo  cnarto  los 
agraWoa  heohoa  i  los  naturalst;  lo  qain- 
to  los  desaftieros  qne  han  hecho  los  «b- 
trttngnvi, '  To  which  the  barthensome 
taxes,  which  on^t  to  hare  been  para- 
mount, are  added  aa  a  seoondaiy  reaaon 
foreomplsint  Bat  the  taxes  were  paid, 
Padilla  and  hia  aooomplioes*  heada  fell, 
the  cleigy  of  Toledo  saw  their  cathednd 
sacked  by  the  mob»  and  the  nobility, 
weakened  already  by  Ximenes^  that 
Spanish  Bichelieu,  bent  the  knee  before 
the  Qerman  *  Cmst.'  When  the  Court 
was  lemored  to  Yalladolid,  the  pros- 
perity of  Toledo  b^c^  to  decieaae.' 
The  population,  consisting  of  80,000 
tmnoff  in  beginning  of  16th  century, 
dwindled  to  6000  two  centuries  after.  In 
1616,  80,000  fitting  men,  all  dtisens 
of  Toledo  and  ita  suburbia  mastered  np 
in  the  city ;  and  in  ita  mannlactnrea  6t 
silk  and  wool  10,000  persons  had  beoi 
employed  (Mar.  Sic  ^  808).  In  1686, 
the  decree  declaring  Madrid  Unica  Corte 
was  the  death-blow  to  ita  already  much 
diminished  prosperity. 

In  the  war  of  succession,  Philip  Y.'s 
competitor  offered  to  make  Toledo  once 
more  the  capital  of  the  kingdom,  were 
he  to  become  its  ruler;  but  had  he  eTcn' 
sacceeded  in  the  latter  point  he  would 
hare  failed  in  the  former,  for  now  the 
play  was  oyer,  the  acton  gone^  the 
Ughta  pat  out,  the  acenes  broken  np 
and  laid  aside,  and  the  few  remaining 
apectators  would  hare  no  longer  under- 
atood  the  old  ^orioas  words  of  the  past 

iS^-Meiii^.— Cathedral,  Church  of 
San  Juan  de  loa  Beyea,  Sta.  Maria  la 
Blanca»  el  Trinsito»  Sta.  C^ns,  and 
minor  ohurehea.  PubUe  ediAoea— Al« 
oaxar,  manufactoiy  of  anna. 


4M 


Tks  CtAtinL-Ot  tlM  prindtiTie 
«itlh«tel  «r  ell*  wkm  tad  whftt  it  VM, 
ktm,  whtm^  *«<i  ^  wham  Ummtitdt 
msMm^  k  kaovm*    W«  iMd  ob  the 

ia  (Jb  cUiUr;  Md  WW  diaeofcrad  1691« 
tibtt  tlM  8«ato  Iteiaww  fimfffftttH 
M  Mcli  voder  Kiii|^  fiteundf  m  the 
yttr  6t7,  tad  ikU  wtwmtX  eoaaeflt  took 
|iU«o  wfthlA  iU  wtXk,  tX  which  wwe 

Lbhop  (whooo  bodjr  wm  fbnad  in  the 
wthodral  of  Solst  Dtoif  in  Fnoee,  tad 
giTMi  to  Philip  \h  bf  Charles  IX.)  of 
Toledo,  8t  Eladio,  Jnliaa,  etc.,  and* 
aeeording  to  a  rery  earlj  tniditioa,  thia 
aame  cathedral  waa  Tiaited,  Dec  18, 
0M,  hjr  the  Virgia  Mar^r*  who  eaaie 
down  from  Hearen  to  inrest  Archbiahop 
Holifonao  with  a  chaaoble.  After  the 
capture  of  the  city  by  the  Koon  it  waa 
tamed  into  a  moaqae,  which,  according 
to  aome,  waa  palled  down  aiid  a  larger 
moaqoe  raiaed  aboat  1082,  in  lamaera 
rtign,  bat  of  thia  nothing  remaina  aare 
a  tank,  otalgtb*^  now  in  the  patio  of  the 
chnrohof  San  Pedro,  and  conrerted  into 
a  miracalooa  well,  whoee  water  cared 
all  dtaeaaea  except  aaperatition,  and  on 
which  Alfonao  Yf.  ordered  abooktobe 
written.  Wh^  the  dty  was  recorered 
from  the  Moora  by  Alfonao  Y.,  in  1085, 
itcontinued  tobe  the^l/dfmi^  orMoaqae, 
for  aome  time,  according  to  the  promiae 
of  the  king ;  and  the  now  deatroyed 
charch  of  Santa  Maria  Alflcon  became 
the  temporary  oathedraL  Bat  Blahop 
liomard,  who^  at  the  request  of  the 
king,  bad  been  aent  from  France  by 
Hugo,  abbot  of  Cluny,  to  reform  in 
Spain  the  rale  or  order  of  St  Benedict, 
and  became  Arohbiahop  of  Toledo,  aided 
by  Queen  Cbnataasa,  a  natlre  of  France 
lilce  himaelf  (aee  abore,  the  History  of 
Toledo),  on  the  night  of  the  26th  Octo- 
ber, 1086,  entered  the  moeqae^  de- 
atroyed all  tracee  of  Hoalem  worship^ 
and  oonrerted  it  by  this  cmp  iTitai 


into  a  estkedrsL  The  AiJUti,  seeing 
tfet  oppssitioa  woald  bs  vata,  dipic 
■Mtically  wcat  to  eoaiplaia  to  thekb^ 
who  waa  iaccasedwhca  hshcsid  that 
his  praniss  to  the  Moon  had  ben  Tio- 
kked  by  his  qaesa,  sad  bcged  their 
pardoB  tor  it,  whidi  waa  easily  gfsatfri, 

the  eathedial  eoatiBaed  to  aopeKsedc 
thsBjosqaeof  tiieiaideL  TheehBrd^ 
ridily  deeorated,  was  also  need  for  a 
Bonaatcfy,  and  the  Benedictiae  Monka 
of  Claay  were  plaeed  hcte ;  benee  the 

ttUetoritM,  tie.  Bat  after  a  ceatmy 
and  a  haU^  8t  Fenliaaad  dctenntaed, 
according  to  hia  habit,  to  destroy  the 
mosqos^  howerer  Christianiaed  it  had 
become^  and  erecta  magniAcent  basilica. 
The  mosqoe  was  according  palled 
down,  and  the  king  and  Archbiahop 
Don  Rodrigo  de  Rode,  in  Angast  14, 
1227,  laid  the  firat  atone  of  the  preaent 
one.  The  architect  who  designed  and 
for  nearly  ilfty  yeara  directed  the  works, 
was  Pedro  Peres  Diax,  who  liea  baried 
in  the  aacristy  of  the  Oi^la  de  loe 
Doctorea,  near  the  Sagrario^  and  whom 
the  epiUph  calla  'Kagister  Eccleaia,* 
and  aaserta  'qai  pmaenaTemplam  con* 
atrazit ;'  he  was  one  of  the  best  archi- 
tecta  of  the  18th  centary,  and  died 
1286.  In  January  1498,  the  roof  waa 
finished,  and  the  main  portion  com- 
pleted, therefore,  after  288  years  of 
almost  aninterrnpted  works ;  with  the 
exception  of  the  sabseqaent  additiona— 
Tis.  the  Kosarabio  chapela,  thoae  of 
Beyes  Naeros,  Ssgrario,  Ocharo,  etc 
The  arohitecta  after  the  death  of  Perez 
were  Rodrigo  Alfonso^  Alvar  Qomez 
(14th  and  16th  centuries) ;  and  after 
them  Martin  Sanches,  and  Juan  Quae, 
the  architect  of  San  Joan  de  loe  Reyes. 
It  was  plundered  by  Padilla'a  wife  and 
the  mob  in  1821,  and  by  General  la 
Houasaye  in  1808. 
Hi  £i^U  tmd  Prqwrtftoai.— It  is  an 


TOLKDO — OATHICDBAL. 


437 


oblong  square,  except  on  the  E.  nde^ 
where  it  fonns  a  semicircle,  meesnring 
404  ft.  (Spudflh)  long  from  E.  to  W. ; 
and  204  a  wide  from  K.  to  a  Mariuia, 
no  connoiaeear  after  all,  calls  this  cathe- 
dral La  lUca,  that  of  Seyille  La  Grande, 
that  of  Leon  La  Sntil,  or  GentO,  and 
so  on,  which  means  bat  little,  and  is 
too  often  quoted  here  and  abroad.  The 
style  of  the  edifice  belongs  to  the  best 
period  of  the  Gothic,  which  prerails 
alike  outside  and  in  the  interior,  with 
a  few  exceptions  here  and  there  apper- 
taining to  the  Gothic  of  thel5th  orfloiid 
decline,  the  plateresqne  and  Graoo- 
Roman,  the  Saracenic  itself  not  being 
foigotten.  There  are  stai  traces  of  the 
Bjinmtine  abont  details  belonging  to 
the  earlier  portions  of  the  caUiedral, 
where  the  early  Spanish-Gothic  reigns 
in  all  its  simplicity,  mijesty,  ansterity, 
and  strength.  The  splendoar,  light- 
ness, and  almost  SaraceniMd  character 
nnd  richness  of  details  of  the  Gothic  of 
the  15th  centnry  hare  also  unriyalled 
examples ;  and  there  are  not  wanting 
specimens  full  of  indiridnality  and 
^ical  of  the  different  styles  that  pre- 
vailed in  torn  from  the  16th  to  the  18th 
oentory,  to  which  if  we  add  that  the 
greatest  artists  of  the  day  enriched  it 
sncoessiTely— -that  Boigofta,  Bermgnete, 
Cespedes,  and  Yillalpondo  ;  Alias,  Co- 
pin,  Yergara,  Egas,  and  CoTarmbias ; 
and  some  hundred  or  more  artists,  were 
employed  during  six  centnries  by  the 
wealthiest  and  most  enlightened  clergy 
that  Spain  erer  possessed,  it  will  be 
easy  to  see  that  this  cathedral  is  a 
complete  moseom  of  the  different  ec- 
desiological  periods  in  Spain,  from 
the  18th  to  the  18th  centnry.  The 
exterior  does  not  conespond  to  the  in- 
terior in  harmony,  mijesty,  details  of 
scnlptore^  style,  etc,  and  is  inferior  to 
that  of  Leon  and  Burgos,  where  the  ad- 
miraUe  grouping  of  the  masses,  the 
projecting  angles,  and  the  general  dis- 


tribution, produce  great  Tariety,  more* 
ment,  and  life,  llie  stone  employed 
inside  came  from  the  quarries  of  Oil- 
guelas,  situated  two  leaguesfrom  Toleda 
It  is  easily  worked,  soft  when  Just  ex- 
tracted, and  becomes  hard  with  time. 
The  external  portion  is  all  of  Berro- 
quefia  stone^  saTS  the  ornamentation  of 
portals,  which  is  also  of  OUgnelas  whits 
stone. 

jSbBterior.— This  is,  unfortunately, 
partly  concealed  by  being  blocked  up 
on  all  sides  ssts  one  by  different  build- 
ings, and,  moreorer,  its  being  situated 
on  low  ground.  The  principal  features 
are,  eight  elaborate  ingresses  of  dif- 
ferent styles ;  a  tower,  the  only  one 
completed  of  the  two  proposed  ;  and 
the  facades  and  cloisters.  The  best 
Tiew  k  from  the  Plaia  del  Ayunta- 
miento,  in  which  the  grand  facade  is 
situated,  and  also  from  that  of  San 
Yuste.  The  principal  facade,  the  west- 
em,  called  del  PertUm^  looks  to  the 
town-hall  opposite  ;  the  Archbishop's 
Palace  is  to  the  right  On  the  left  of 
the  spectator  rises  the  belfry-tower, 
and  to  right  dsneros*  Moiaiabie 
chapel,  with  its  elegant  cupola  and 
Gothic  open-work ;  both  these  portions 
of  the  edifice,  which  are  salient,  seem 
linked  together  by  an  iron  railing  with 
pilasters  and  jairones^  forminga  spacious 
loiga  on  which  the  three  portals  open. 
That  toright  isthePuerta  delos  Escri- 
banos^  calledalso  of  Judgment ;  to  left, 
de  la  Torre,  or  of  HeU ;  and  the  cen- 
tral, del  Perdon.  These  portals,  date 
1418-60,  were  designed  by  Alvar 
Gomes,  Martines,  etc.,  and  belong  to 
the  ricK  Gothic  of  that  period.  Orer 
each  of  .tl^e  three  doors  ib  a  reliero ; 
that  in  the  oentre  represents  the  Yiigin 
alighting  upon  earth,  and  placing  the 
casnlla  (chasuUe)  on  St  Ildefonso^  a 
tradition  much  renerated  here,  and  re- 
produced in  erery  possible  manner. 
Orer  the  right  door  is  the  Last  Judg* 


438 


TOLEDO — CATHEDRAL. 


ment^  not  ao  good  at  the  fonner ;  and 
OTor  the  third  are  some  estrellonea,  de- 
corated with  heada,  etc.    The  aecond 
atage  or  portion  of  the  facade  is  orna- 
mented idth  a  reliero  representing  the 
Last  Supper,  with  fnll-sized  statnea; 
sixty  statnea  of  aainta,  kinga,  and  pro- 
phets^ small  heads  of  angel%  marble 
pillareta,  the  leaf  ornamentation,  and 
other    details,    profusely   distributed, 
which  are  aU  of  that  period,  aa  well  aa 
the   Gothic   open-work   parapet,  and 
a  coloaaal  central  statue  of  Religion. 
The  third  or  upper  atorey  is  Qr»oo- 
Roman,  and  a  Md  addition  of  Du- 
rango'a,  which  datea  1787.    On  the  a 
portion  of  the  cathedral  we  find  the 
fafades  of  Za  LUma  and  of  Xot  lAtmu^ 
the  former  of  which  is  the  most  recent 
of  all,  and  datea  1800,  when  it  waa 
awkwardly  placed  instead  of  the  former 
Puerta  de  loe  Oarretones.     Its  style  is 
filafsii^l  and  indiflforent     The  Pumia 
de  lc9  Leomei  is  a  beautiM  specimen 
of  the  rich  Gothic  of  the  16th  century 
(it  datea  14«0),  and  is  the  work  of 
E^aa.     The  exquisite   ornamentation 
by  the  imaginero  Juan  Aleman.    The 
upper  portion  was  modernised  at  the  end 
of  the  last  century  by  Durango.     Pour 
liona     supporting     escntchtons,    and 
placed  upon  marble  pillars  before  thia 
goor,  gare  to  it  the  name  it  boars.    The 
door  itaelf  is  formed  by  a  magnificent 
pointed  arch  of  the  purest  style  of  the 
15th  century,  decorated  with  nichea  on 
each  side,  with  statuea  under  rich  cano- 
piea,  and  an  infinity  of  exquisite  de- 
taila^the  reliero  of  the  Virgin's  As- 
sumption is  modem.     Orer  the  door 
are  rery  high  reliero  medallion8»  with 
busts  of  Apostles,  and  full-siaed  sta- 
tues—they are  modem.     All  this  is 
crowned  by  a  modem  fh>nt,  with  a 
eolossal  St  Augnstin.     The  exteriors 
of  the  bronse  doors  are  a  masterpiece 
of  Yillalpando  4nd  Dias  del  Corral, 
and  date  1646-50.    The  insides  are  by 


Aleas  and  Miguel  Copin,  sons  of  Di^ 
Copin,  of  Holland,  and  equally  exqui* 
dte— obeenre  the  Tases^  children,  cen- 
taura,  battlea,  etc.  Theae  doors  cost 
98,672  mararedis,  a  large  sum  then, 
and  yet,  eren  then,  how  little  I  for 
everything  ia  perfect  about  thia  portal. 
In  the  oompoaition,  execution  (conaider- 
ing  the  period),  thought,  and  feeling 
that  pervade  it 

At  the  other  extremity  of  the  tran- 
aept  (to  the  N.)  ii  the  Portal  del  Reloj, 
called  thus  from  the  clock  placed  here. 
It  is  alao  known  aa  Portal  de  la  Feria, 
and  del  Nillo  perdido^  etc    It  datea  end 
of  14th  century.     It  consists  of  a  large 
pointed  arch,  on  the  sides  of  which,  on 
the   archivolta,  etc,  are   aereral   re- 
lieri,  hard,  rade,  and  yague  in  com- 
position ;  ss  are  all  those  of  that  early 
atylc    The  bronse  doors  are  the  work 
of  Turreno   and   Domingues   (1718), 
who  endeavoured  to  imitate  those  of 
Los    Leones.     The  insides  are  prior 
to  thia  date,  and  the  cairinga  good. 
The  relievi  orer  the  door  are  very 
early,  and  repi:esent  scenes  from  the 
life  of  the  YiigiiL    The  statuea  and 
groupa  flanking   the    ingreaa  hare  a 
mysterious   meaning,   which   haa   re- 
mained unexplained— obaerre  a  queen 
holding  a  book,  a  groom  leading  three 
horses,  two   women   wrapped   up   iu 
cloaks,  etc    The  rest  of  this  frfade  is 
moderiL     On  the  right  of  thia  fiifade 
is  the  aalient  chapel  of  San  Pedro ;  on 
the  left  the  Sagrario  and  Oohara    Be- 
tween these  rans  a  rery  fine  Gothic 
railing  of  the  end  of  fifteenth  century, 
the  woric  of  Maestro  Paulo.    The  tower 
on  the  left,  rery  high  and  equare,  is  the 
work  of  Alrar  Gomes,  and  datea  1425. 
The  clock  datea  1702,  and  coat  £7000. 
The  upper  capital  was  added  by  Du- 
rango.     The   relieri   are   indifferent 
On  the  N.  side  we  hare  still  two  more 
portala;   that  of  Sia,    OKoImm^  the 
earliest,  dates  14th  century.    Obnrr» 


TOLEDO— OATHSDRAK 


439 


the  Qothio  gilt  omaiikenti  and  black 
slate  pillaretiL  A  marble  pillar  diTides 
it,  the  capital  of  which  is  formed  by 
a  baaso-relieTo,  repnsentiiig  the  burial 
of  St  Oatherine ;  and  orer  this  jnUar 
rests  the  effigy  of  the  saint,  painted, 
and  'estofiuio^'  and  two  laiger  onea  at 
the  extremities.  Over  the  Untel  is  the 
Annunciation  of  the  Virgin,  painted 
expressly  by  Lois  de  Yelasco,  in  1584, 
The  F&rUU  de  la  Pre$tiuaeicn  is  a  gem 
of  the  plateresqne  at  its  best  period. 
It  was  begun  in  1565,  and  completed 
abont  end  of  19th  oentory,  and  is  the 
woric  of  Castalkeda^  Hemandei^  Man- 
sano,  and  others.  The  arch  is  40  ft 
high,  and  20  ft.  broad;  the  pilasters, 
friese^  cornice^  and  triangular  summit 
which  crowns  it  sre  |decorated  with 
exquisite  relieri ;  the  statues  and  me- 
dallions are  good.  Over  the  key-stone, 
which  binds  and  closes  the  sweep  of 
the  arch,  is  an  oval  messo-relievo,  re- 
presenting the  mystery  of  the  Presen- 
tation of  the  Yir^n. 

The  Tower, — ^This  is  a  noble  monu- 
ment, lofty,  elegant,  and  full  of  charac- 
ter. It  is  329  ft.  high,  and  was  begun 
by  Archbishop  Tenorio,  1880-1440. 
It  is  the  work  of  BodHgo  Alfonso  and 
Alvar  Gonsales.  It  is  composed  of 
three  Gothic  storeys^  and  is  crowned 
by  a  ctrde  or  crown  of  iron  rays,  ter- 
minating in  a  colossal  cross.  The 
Berroqueha  stone,  that  of  La  Roaa, 
marbles  and  slate^  are  the  materials, 
and  the  general  effect  is  that  of  a  col- 
lossal  filigree  custodia,  or  chandelier 
of  Arfei^  seen  by  the  wrong  end  of  a 
telescope.  The  tiara-like  and  effective 
circle  of  rays  is  crowned  by  balls, 
a  cross,  a  weathercock,  and  an  arrow. 
The  great  bells  of  the  cathedral  are 
here,  amongst  which  is  the  'Qorda,' 
which  was  put  up  in  1753,  and  weighs 
1548  arrobes.  Its  sounds  are  excellent 
The  ICatraca,  Esquilon,  etc.,  are  so 
many  lions  with  the  campanero;  but 


chimes  and  carillons  are  not  thingi  of 
Spain,  thou^  churoh-beUs  are  used 
for  more  positive  ends,  such  ss  'el 
toqueirebato,  a  somaten,  ifnego^'  when 
the  number  of  eempcmadae  designates 
the  exact  barrio  where  the  fire  breaks 
out ;  and  is  duly  learnt  by  heart  by 
every  prudent  veeimo,  so  much  so,  that 
those  ignorant  of  the  toques  sre  held 
next  to  idiots,  whence  the  ^overb^ 
'Bepican  campanasy  no  sabe  donde,' 
equal  to  being  informed  of  the  most 
oonmion  thing:  'Hombre  estas  oomo 
si  no  hubieres  oido  campanas.' 

For  the  cMMsrv,  see  end  of  descrip- 
tion of  the  cathednL* 

/fliflrior.— The  interior  is  divided 
into  five  naves,  the  lateral  chapels  oc- 
cupying the  sixth  and  seventh  at  the 
E.  side ;  that  of  the  centre  is  the  largest, 
and  measures  118  ft.  hi^ — the  lateral 
diminish  gradually  in  height  and 
width.  'Hie  roof  is  oomposed  ol 
seventy-two  bovedss,  or  vaults,  resting 
on  eighty-eight  piers,  forming  groups 
of  shafts,  varying  from  eight  to  six- 
teen, and  standing  on  one  only  and 
same  base;  the  caj^tals  are  composed 
of  a  plain  foliage.  Some  of  the  shafts 
stop  hslf-way  to  receive  the  arches 
of  communication ;  the  remaining  con- 
tinue to  rise  and  bend  with  the  gentle 
curve  of  a  palm  to  support  the  arches, 
forming  the  groined  roof  of  the  cen- 
tral nave.  The  750  stained  windows 
shine  between  these  rows  of  arches, 
and  form  a  treble  waU  of  glorious 
painted  glass.  The  ogive  between  the 
decrescent  central  and   mediate  bays 

•J^rmditU  FttHviiiit.'-Thm  Holy  WmIc 
cTMttooiM  are  very  outgiufiomt,  fiu  aapcffior 
to  iboM  of  Madrid,  and  well  worth  Meiii(. 
San  IldafooM,  tha  Tutelar  Saiaf  s  festhral,  » 
also  a  great  day  at  the  cathedral  and  town 
(January  mX 

jar  H^mrg.—TYm  cathedral  h  open  daily, 
from  7  A.M.  to  the  #r«nMi  (e^reniof  about  6): 
but  to  tee*  the  jeweb  and  choir,  the 
must  choose  aooie  time  after  a  r.M. 


440 


TOLEDO — CATHEDRAL. 


if  tharplj  pointed  and  of  rttj  ele- 
gant design ;  between  these  latter  and 
Uie  extreme  lateral  and  lower  ones^ 
the  ogire  is  sererer,  not  so  pointed, 
and  of  an  earlier  style.  On  the  capi- 
tals and  bases  of  most  of  the  pien^ 
excepting  perhaps  those  of  the  central 
nare^  where  the  16th  centurj  is  seen 
in  all  its  splendour,  the  Byzantine  has 
left  many  a  restige  of  its  inflnence, 
marked,  moreoTer,  in  other  portions  of 
the  boilding.  The  parement  is  of 
bluish-white  marble  placed  as  a  chess- 
board. The  extreme  lateral  nayes  are 
railed  by  excellent  rejas,  to  form  twenty- 
three  chapels  of  different  styles  and 
periods.  In  the  centre  the  choir  sadly 
blocks  np  the  nare,  and  conceals  the 
high  chapel  and  altar.  The  whole 
edifioe  rises  on  a  spacious  orsrpt  or 
Tault,  distributed  into  five  nares,  also 
of  same  width  and  length,  but  not 
height,  and  dirided  by  eighty-eight 
square  piers,  which  support  the  upper 
ones  aborei  The  roof  outside  was  a 
giomo  for  a  long  time,  that  is,  was 
covered  in  only  by  Gothic  open-work 
parapets ;  it  was  tiled  up  subsequently. 
The  exterior  means  of  strengthening 
the  walls  by  flying  buttresses  have  also 
led  to  effectlTe  decoration  and  effect. 

The  transept  is  spacious,  and  lighted 
by  two  splendid  rose  windows.  Orer 
the  arches  formed  by  the  intersection 
of  the  four  lower  bays,  runs  a  long 
gallery  of  eurred  diminutiTe  arches. 
The  salient  anj^es  formed  by  the  meet- 
ing of  the  oylindrical  vaults  which 
cross  eaeh  other,  and  the  joints  of  the 
stones,  sre  marked  out  with  gold  fil- 
lets. The  niches  contain  several  stiff, 
rudely-executed  statuettes,  of  white 
stone,  which  seem,  ss  it  were,  the 
ghosts  of  the  grave  and  holy  per- 
sonages, who^  fbll  of  life  and  move- 
ment, radiant  with  light  and  colour, 
draped  in  gold  brocade  tissues,  stand 
in  the  painted  windows  just  above. 


The  lateral  naves  wind  with  a  beantifiil 
sweep  round  the  apse,  offering  to  the 
view  a  charming  peispeotivis  when  seen 
a  little  lower  down,  and  throu^^  the 
arches  opening  round  the  presbytery. 
Another  good  point  of  view  ii  tnan.  the 
Altar  of  the  Descent,  and  also  Inm. 
Puerta  del  Perdon.  There  breathes 
throughout  a  spirit  of  .grandeur,  lofti- 
ness, and  m^jestio  repose.  The  pomp 
and  splendour  of  the  ogival  of  15th 
oentuiy  is  to  be  admired  as  much  ss  the 
simplicity,  myitio  character,  and  sober 
style  of  the  18th.  It  is  lower  than  that 
of  Seville,  smsller  too,  and  not  so  well 
lighted. 

High  0%d|Ml.— Prior  to  end  of  16th 
century,  the  high  chapel  oocupied  only 
the  space  between  the  railing  and  the 
steps  leading  to  the  presbytery^that  is, 
was  placed  under  the  second  boveds 
(vaulted  rooO  of  oentral  nave  ;  and  the 
first  boveda,  now  the  presbytery,  formed 
a  chapel  called  d4  Urn  JUya  Fi^foit 
which  was  founded  by  King  Sancho  d 
Bravo  for  a  burial  chapel  for  the  royal 
family ;  and  in  it  were  buried  Sancho 
the  Brave,  Sancho  el  Desoado^  Alfon- 
so YIL  his  fkther,  king  of  Portnpd, 
Don  Sancho  O^ielo^  etc.  Cardinal 
GIsneros  (better  known  to  En^ish 
readers  as  Ximenes)  obtained  horn  the 
Oatholio  kings  leave  to  enlaige  the  high 
chapel,  leaving  the  royal  tombs  where 
they  were.  This  took  place  in  14M, 
and  shortly  after  the  retablo  and  present 
tombs,  etc,  were  completed.  This 
chapel  is  66  ft.  long;  by  46  ft.  to  50  ft., 
according  to  distances  between  piers, 
and  116  ft  high ;  its  form  being  that 
of  the  cathedral  itself.  The  pavement 
is  a  mosaic,  formed  by  white  and  red 
marbles,  vdned  over,  and  describiog 
geometrical  figures.  Over  the  roof, 
arches,  and  flying  buttresses,  the  joints 
of  the  stones  are  gorgeously  gUt  and 
painted  blue,  as  well  as  the  upper  half 
of  the  piers.    From  half-way  down  tlis 


TOLEDO — ^ROTAL  TOMB& 


441 


jiien  are  daowated  with  an  infinity  of 
sUtaettet  of  kings,  •rehUihoi%  tad 
ttdnti,  and  a  mnltitoda  of  angeli  play- 
ing on  different  imtromenti,  and  with 
oatf  pread  wingi^  that  want  bat  inoenee 
to  rdse  them  a^^  from  the  spot  where 
they  hare  alighted.  The  sides  or  ribs, 
so  to  speak,  of  the  chapel,  are  formed 
by  a  giamo  walla.  That  to  the  right, 
especially,  ii  admirsMe  for  the  open 
work— eo  light,  and  the  stone  so  trans- 
parent The  lowet  arches  have  oelosias, 
through  which  the  lateral  nares  are 
seen.  The  arches  and  buttresses  of  the 
second  and  third  storqrs  or  portions  are 
decorated  with  two  rows  of  statoes,  the 
lower  being  life-sise  and  moetly  mitred. 
The  eUbwato  Gothic  side-walls  are 
coeral  with  the  earlier  portions  of  the 
cathedrsL  Orer  the  lateral  arches  ran 
galleries,  of  diminntire  Moro-Oothio 
archlets,  divided  by  paired  pUlarets, 
with  colossal  statues;  and  oyer  them 
open  large  windows  and  roses  of  painted 
glass,  with  figures  of  saints  and  pro- 
phets, and  shields  of  Boyal  arms,  and 
those  of  Cisneros. 

The  r^  is  superb^  and  made  of  a 
combination  of  copper,  iron,  and  brass. 
It  is  the  work  of  Francisco  de  Yillal- 
pando^  the  riral  of  Berrugueto  and 
Borgofia,  who  took  ten  years  to  Qom- 
pleto  it,  1588-48,  for  which  he  receiTed 
about  £4700,  equal  now,  certainly,  to 
£20,000.  It  is  46  ft  wide,  by  21  ft 
high,  and  is  a  masterpiece  of  the 
pUtoesque.  Obserye  the  admirable 
finish  and  composition  of  the  bassi- 
relieri  details,  shieldi  of  arms,  candela- 
bra, and  a  colossal  orucifiizion.  It  was 
formerly  aU  gilt  and  ailTered.  What 
must  this  cathedral  hare  been  then  1 
The  plateresque  pulpUi  are  of  bronxe, 
and  of  admirable  workmanship ;  they 
are  also  by  Yillalpanda  At  the  ex- 
tremities of  the  chapel,  and  upon  piers, 
stand  the  statues  (on  the  left)  of  the 
celebrated  shepherd  Martin  Alhaga  or 


Halo,  who  semi-miraeulously  showed 
to  Alfonso  yilL  a  short  oat  across  th6 
hills  to  LasNayas^  when  he  so  signally 
defeated  the  infideL  On  the  o^osito 
pier  (to  the  right)  is  the  Alfaqi^  who 
interceded  with  Alfonso  in  behalf  of 
Queen  Oostana  and  Bishop  Bernard, 
when,  contrary  to  the  king's  wish  and 
promiw,  they  had  conyertod  by  force 
the  mosque  into  a  church.  On  the 
side  of  the  Epistle,  within  a  niche,  ia 
also  a  statue  of  Alfonso  YL 

Tomb  nf  CmrdkuU  Mmidomik,'''Ot  the 
two  side  walla,  that  on  side  of  the 
Gospel  wss  destroyed  to  make  way 
for  this  mausoleum.  On  the  left  of 
altar  is  the  glorious  sepulchre  of  the 
Grand  (3Brdinal  of  Spain,  the  Arch- 
bishop of  Toledo,  Mendoat,  the  Uretr 
r^  (ob.  1405).  It  is  all  of  predons 
marbles,. with  two  fa^adet— one  formed 
by  the  sarcophagus,  a  recumbent  effigy, 
and  the  other  being  an  altar  with  a 
good  medallion  Twpriwwn^ftg  the  Adora- 
tion of  the  Cross,  which  is  held  by  St ' 
Helena,  by  the  pious  pielato  in  the 
presence  of  St  Peter.  It  is  a  fine  ex- 
ample of  the  early  plateresque,  and  the 
first  woric  executed  in  this  cathedral 
by  A.  de  Ooyarrubias.  The  statuettes 
and  details  are  profusely  distributed  and 
weU  executed. 

Boyid  Tomit, — Around  the  hi^ 
altar.  Oyer  open  arches  railed  in  by 
gilt  r^as  are  admirably-worked  Gk>thic 
nichea,  or  rather  recesses,  decorated 
with  statuettes  and  gQt  pinnacles  and 
niche  woriL  At  the  back  of  these 
recesses  are  richly-coloured  escutcheons 
of  Gsstile.  On  those  on  the  left  the 
Austrian  eagles  may  be  seen  appearing 
at  so  early  a  date— for  they  are  all  of 
the  same  date,  1507 — and  the  woric  of 
Diego  Oopin  (Kopfen?)  of  Holland. 
These  truly  r^al  enterramientoe,  so 
superior  in  eyery  respect  to  the  urns  at 
the  Escorial,  are  crowned  by  a  charming 
open  work. interlaced  arch,  or  rather  a 


443 


TOLEDO — CATHEDRAL. 


tneeried  feitoon,  desoritod  with  tU- 
tnetteii  iUigree  pfanadi%  termiiuitiiig 
in  A  tort  ot  goimfc.  aiiy  tabernacle. 


oC  great  d^ganee  And  Hghtneaa  The 
tombe  themaelTei^  at  weU  at  tiie  jaeoit 
eiBgiee  oC  marUe^  are  mni^  earlier  than 
the  reat»  and  were  pkeed  in  tiie  ehapd 
of  La  SanU  Cm  or  Beyea  l^Qoa,  in 
1829,  bj  Saneho  el  Braro.  On  the 
aide  of  the  Goepd  are  the  tomba  of  the 
Emperor  Alfcmm  VJL  and  the  ImfamU 
D.  Ptdfn  de  AguOar;  on  that  of  tiie 
Epiatle,  thoee  of  D.  Smeho  §1  Bramo 
and  D.  Stmiko  ti  Deatado.  TIm  Lifante 
Arehbiahopa,  etc.,  who  lie  here  ako, 
haTe  no  inacriptioni  or  atatoea. 

SdoNc—ThsM  gem  of  the  Hlg^ 
Chnrch  riiea  from  ^  parement  to  the 
rerj  roof;  it  waa  pat  np  for  Oardinal 
Cinieroa,  1500-i,  uid  waa  the  work  of 
twenty-aeven  artifta.  It  ia  of  aleree- 
wood.  And  ia  pAinted  And  gQt  The 
deaign  waa  made  by  Felipe  de  Yigami, 
better  known  aa  BorgoAa,  and  Alfonao 
Sancbei,  who  employed  nnder  their 
ordera  aoch  men  aa  Diego  Copin, 
Petit  Jean,  or  Petit  Joan,  a  French- 
mAn  or  An  Aragoneae  (the  Limonain 
ii  atm  apoken,  end  waa  then  chiefly 
in  many  portiona  of  Aragon),  and  Al- 
monadd,  who  wa%  from  hia  name, 
probably  a  eonrerted  Koor.  The 
painting  And  gilding  were  ezecoted 
under  the  direction  of  JoAn  de  BorgoAe, 
Philip'a  brother.  Thia  retablo  ia  con- 
dderod  one  of  the  beat  in  Spain,  and  a 
magnificent  example  of  the  Florid 
OoUiic  It  is  dirided  into  five  storeya^ 
aeparated  perpendicnlArly  by  richly- 
worked  oolumna.  The  aabjeeta  are 
Uken  from  the  New  Testement ;  the 
profbaion  of  atatoettea  and  detafla  of 
omAmentAtion,  thou^  gr^^t,  do  not 
mar  the  general  effect ;  end  the  com- 
poeition  end  ezecntion  Are  AdmirAble. 
The  central  pyramidal  cnatodiA  looka 
like  filigree-work ;  the  Virgin  ii  aeated 
mder  it,  with  Angela  pUying  on  in- 


the  whole  p**— » 

I%s  Tnmipmwnit, — Thia  aingokr 
eiample  of  the  chmrignewaqoe  HV^^ 
to  marble  aculpUuing  ia  pbeedAi  tiie 
\mtk  of  the  hi^  aHu;  And  pot  up  to 
reoder  tranaparent  the  inade  of  tho 
'eamarin,'  which  ia  bdiind  the  hi|^ 

holy  of  hoBea  are  kept  It  ia  the  week 
of  Kareiao  Tom^  1789;  who  may  be 
considered  the  inveotor  of  these 
tnmttit  cf  MorNtf  aa  they  hATe 
caDed,  end  which  Are  aeen  in  many 
SpAniah  chnrcheai  Bat,  thoo^  the 
compoaition  is  fimlty,  yet  the  exeea- 
tion  ia  wonderfiil:  and  mArble  hea 
rarely  been  handled  with  that  freedom, 
boldneaa,  and  finiah  of  the  minntest 
details.  It  cost  £15,000.  Under  the 
high  chspel  is  a  sabterrAneoos  dutpel, 
del  SentA  Sepnlcro,  so  celled  from  re- 
preeenting  the  site  of  Christ'a  boriaL 
It  is  indifferent,  and  aeldom  shown  to 
rintoTA  The  altera  are  decorated  with 
acolptares  and  fnctores.  Orer  the  cen- 
tral ia  A  fine  Borial  of  Christ,  1614,  by 
Di^  Copin,  'estofsdo,'  And  pAinted 
by  JoAn  de  Boigofie ;  the  pictoree  on 
the  right  eltAr  Are  by  Ricd,  or  RiszL 
The  rMpeldoe  of  high  chepel  date  1490, 
end  were  pat  ap  by  Gardinel  Mendose ; 
the  scolptaring  here,  medslliona  from 
life  of  Christ,  etc.,  ere  of  more  ed- 
ranced  execution  and  better  style  on 
the  side  of  Gospel  than  on  the  earlier 
part  (88  years  before),  oyer  the  Epistle 
side. 

Oko(r,—TbiM  part  of  the  church  is 
plsoed  under  iht  fourth  end  fiftk 
YAults,  And  meesures  70  ft  long  by  45 
ft  wide.  It  ii  walled  in  on  dl  aidea 
except  towards  the  £.  or  high  chapel, 
from  which  it  ia  railed  in  by  a  magnifi- 
cent reja,  a  worthy  pendant  to  thet  of 
the  letter,  of  the  aame  time  and  style, 
formerly  gOt  and  ailTered,  until  the 
French  iuTAsion,  when  it  waa 


TOLBDO — OATHSDRAIfc 


448 


of  the  gilding.  It  is  a  masterpieoe  of 
Domingo  C^spedfls,  a  gnat  Maestro 
rejeto,  who  employed  Fernando  Braro 
to  complete  it  (1648).  The  ornamen- 
tation is  Teiy  rioh  and  well  exeoated. 
The  paTement  of  the  choir  is  made  of 
laige  white  marble  slahs,  diWded  by 
broad  frames  of  dark  marble  inlaid. 
Orer  an  isolated  altar  is  a  stone  effigy 
of  the  Virgin,  called  Yiigen  de  la 
Blanca»  probably  from  its  being 
mormal  bat  the  Spanish  peasant  likes 
the  <  Oristos'  and  'Yiigenes '  to  look  ss 
national  as  possible ;  and  it  wonld  not 
be  an  easy  task  to  persoade  them  that 
they  were  not  '  CSsstellanos  poros  y  por 
los  cnatro  costsdos,'  or  natives  of  the 
proYinoe  where  they  are  renerated. 
Thus,  the  dsrk-complezioned  Ifarias 
and  Christs  please  thnn  most : 

Moreno  pintan  k  CristOf 
Moteaa  k  la  Magdaleoa, 
Moreno  «•  d  bten  que  adoro ; 
Viva  la  gmite  Morana  1 

Round  it  is  a  ane  reja  by  Yillalpando 
and  Dies  del  Corral,  his  brother-in-law, 
1651-64 ;  it  is  platereeque,  and  with  a 
profusion  of  details  and  figures. 

Xedtems. — ^The  larger  is  in  the  shape 
of  an  eagle  with  spread  wingi^  dates 
1646,  and  is  the  work  of  Salinas.  The 
Gothic  pedestal  is  not  in  keeping  with 
the  upper  portion,  dates  1426,  and  was 
wrought  in  Qermauy.  The  latter  is 
Tcry  superior  to  the  former.  Thei:e 
are  two  more  of  gilt  bronse,  dating 
1670,  the  work  of  the  Yergaraa  The 
relicTos  and  statuettes  are  finely 
executed.  The  wooden  lecterns  date 
beginning  and  middle  of  the  16th 
oentury. 

StdU$,  —  DiTided  into  upper  and 
lower  row,  each  of  a  distinct  period 
and  style.  The  lower  series  is  the 
work  of  the  celebrated  oarrer  (tnial- 
lador)  Rodrigo^  who  completed  it  in 
1496.  This  msgnificent  walnut  sil- 
leria  belongs  to   the   Florid   Oothic. 


Oonsidering  the  period,  the  execution 
is  rery  good ;  but  it  is  especially  in- 
teresting ss  representing  in  the  medal- 
lions the  siciges  and  capture  of  cities 
belonging  to  the  Koors,  by  Ferdinand 
and  Tssbella,  displaying  Taluable  ex- 
amples of  the  dress,  arms,  etc.,  of  that 
time.  The  arms,  frieses,  badu,  feet, 
etc.,  form  a  rare  museum  of  the  gro- 
tesque, in  which  the  mediaral  carrers 
indulged.  The  upper  row  dates  from 
the  middle  of  the  16th  century,  and  is 
one  of  the  finest  and  most  perfect  sil- 
lerias  in  Europe^  the  woric  of  Alonso 
Berruguete^  his  son  Pedro^  and  Philip 
de  Boigofta  (Yigami),  who  undertook 
it  after  a  long  contest  with  other  car- 
vers, presided  over  by  the  chapter. 
Berruguete  made  the  thirty-five  stalls 
on  the  right  side  of  the  Archbishop's 
seat,  including  the  latter,  and  Bor- 
gofta  the  oppodte  row,  in  all  seventy- 
one  stalls.  They  were  wrought  in 
rivalry  of  each  other,  and  fini^ied  in 
1648 ;  and  as  Cardinal  Tavera's  inscrip- 
tion runs:  '  Certaverunt  tum  artifioum 
ingenia ;  certabunt  semper  spectatorum 
judida.'  It  is  indeed  difficult  to  say  who 
deserves  thepalm.  TonameBoigofiaand 
Berrugueteis  to  name  the  style  to  which 
it  belongs,  that  Italianised  platereeque 
so  admirably  understood  and  rendered 
by  Berruguete  especially,  in  works 
which  Benvenuto  Cellini  himself  would 
often  have  been  proud  to  sign.  The 
subjects  represent  saints,  prophets,  pa- 
triarchy etc.,  in  meno-relievo ;  and 
the  recesses  wherein  the  walnut  stalls 
are  pkoed  are  of  alabaster,  and  divided 
by  beantifttl  Jasper  pillars  with  ala- 
baster basements  and  ci^tals.  Over 
the  niches  run  a  series  of  alabaster 
medallions,  with  meiso-relievo  figures 
of  the  patriarchs,  proffmtUorm  of  Jesus 
Christ  The  differences  between  the 
two  TOWS  in  style  sre  very  obvious  and 
interesting  to  study  for  the  history  of 
Spanish  sculpture.    In  that  of  Masse 


444 


TOLEDO — CATHEDRAL. 


Kodrigo  we  hare  all  the  qnalitiee  end 
defects  of  the  Oothio  of  the  16th  cen- 
tury. Its  grotesqae  Tedesco-Gothio 
style  reminds  one  of  Laoas  of  Holland 
and  his  schooL  The  composition  is 
good  and  broad ;  the  attitudes,  group- 
ings and  expression  eyen,  are  wdU  dis- 
posed; the  failure  rests  especially  in 
the  ezecntion.  The  German  school  is 
apparent,  moreorer,  in  the  draperies, 
etc.  The  npper  row  diq>lays  a  fa- 
miliar aognaintance  and  Imowledge  of 
the  best  models  of  Greece  and  Rome. 
In  the  woric  of  both  the  artists  we  see 
the  inflnence  of  the  Florentine  schooL 
Berragoete's  characteristics  are  good 
anatomy,  energy,  antique  cast  of  dra- 
peries^ and  power  of  expression  ;  those 
of  his  rival  Boigofta  are  grace,  soarity, 
greater  freedom  of  handling  richer  ima- 
gination, and  great  taste  in  the  choice 
of  ornamentation  ;  the  draperies,  so  to 
say,  being  less  conrentional  and  mo- 
demised.  The  Archbishop's  stall  was 
also  the  work  of  Bermgnete,  where  the 
group  of  the  Trsnsfiguration,  all  of 
Oogolludo  alabaster,  ii  most  Michael- 
Angelesqne.  .  The  relievoe  of  the  De- 
scent of  the  yirgin  upon  Earth  to  risit 
St  ndefonso  and  Puigatoiy,  are  by 
Gregorio  Yigami,  the  brother  of  Bor- 
goha,  who  died  1548.  The  ckorai 
booki  are  rery  fine  and  early,  and  con- 
tain msgnifioent  specimens  of  illumina- 
tion of  the  .end  of  the  15th  century,  by 
Buitrago,  Airoyo^  Juan  de  Salasar,  etc. 
Notice  the  seren^Tolumes  of  Gisneros's 
missal,  with  illuminations  by  A.  Yaz- 
ques  and  Canderroa. 

The  argams  are  churrigueresque  in 
style  and  sound,  and  date  18th  cen- 
tury ;  that  on  the  side  of  the  Erangelio 
is  the  best 

The  rtspaldoi  or  exUrian  qf  thobr; 
sre  also  reiy  fine  examples  of  the 
second  half  of  the  14th  century,  and 
form  three  walls^  richly  decorated  with 
fifty-two  precious  and  differently-colour- 


ed marble  columns  supportingarcbes  ad  • 
mirably  woriced ;  and  OTor  ^ese  run  a 
series  of  fifly^ix  alto-reUero  medal- 
lions representing  scenes  Imm  the  Old 
Testament  This  is  a  most  excellent 
example  of  middle-pointed  style.  The 
subjects^  though  fiill  of  the  nalMU  of 
the  period  and  many  Taguely  com- 
posed, are  admirable — and  we  point  this 
heretofore  neglected  portion  to  the 
study  of  artists.  The  date  ii  1880 ; 
the  suljeota  are  taken  from  the  Old 
Testament— a  rare  instance  with  Span- 
ish architects.  The  statues  of  In- 
nocence and  Sin,  at  the  sides  of  the 
oval,  containing  a  bust  of  a  Padre 
Etemo  and  ErangeUsts,  are  of  ala- 
baster and  of  18th  century ;  the  medal- 
lion, with  bust  by  Alonso  Berruguete^ 
and  the  statues  by  the  elder  Nicolas 
de  Yergara.  The  four  classical  altars 
date  the  end  of  last  century,  and  are 
yery  indifferent 

Ohapeli  round  ths  Cfkurth.  Interior 
ForUd  del  Faardtm, — Begin  by  this  door, 
and  follow  to  the  right  This  interior 
part,  with  its  two  fine  folds  or  leares 
full  of  bronse  relieri,  dates  1887.  The 
fhune  of  it  and  statues  of  prophets  at 
the  an§^es  are  also  Gothic  Over  it 
are  some  fine  coloured  glass  windows 
and  a  glorious  rose,  80  ft  in 'diameter. 
The  pictures  on  the  sides  are  indif- 
ferent Orer  the  portal  de  la  Torre  is 
a  yery  ancient  firesco  (sadly  defiused  by 
time,  nei^ect,  and  the  lightning  which 
destroyed  part  of  the  tower,  a  few 
years  ago),  representing  the  Resurrec- 
tion of  the  Lord.  Fueria  de  loo  eeori- 
boMM. — The  eeeribamo,  or  notary,  ii 
quite  a  thing  of  Spain,  just  ss  much  as 
tiie  eura  and  the  fnSdieo,  those  three 
professions  that  prosper  with  the  ndn 

of  souls^  bodies,  and  pockets. 

« 

Primeio  que  Mib*  al  ddo^ 
EI  alma  de  un  eaoibaao, 
Tintero,  papd  y  phuaa, 
Haa  de  baflar  el  Himlamp 


TOLEDO — OATHEDRAIi. 


446 


The  guild  of  the  eteribamm  M  mtmero 
of  Toledo  hare  the  priTil^  to  enter 
hf  thie  door  (hence  the  name)  onee  «- 
yetr,  and  wheh  thej  go  to  take  the 
oath  or  Juramtnto  de  intiUuio  before 
the  high  altar.  Orer  this  portal  is 
an  ins^ption  recording  the  date  of 
the  taking  of  Granada,  ezpolsioa  of 
the  Jewi^  and  completion  ot  this  ca- 
thednO. 

Mumrolbic  Chapel, — ^It  is  placed  on* 
der  the  unfinished  tower,  and  was 
founded  by  Cardinal  Cisneros,  on  the 
site  of  the  former  Chapel  of  Corpos 
Christi,  and  bnilt  by  the  Moorish  archi- 
tects, Fsrax  and  Mohammed,  after  de- 
signs of  Enrique  Sgu  (1604).  The 
cupola  was  erected  about  1626,  bj  J. 
M.  Theotocopuli,  the  Greece's  son. 
The  entrance  r^a  is  l^  Juan  Franc^ 
and  plateresque  (1524) ;  and  the  fresco 
on  Cifsde,  by  Juan  de  Boigolka,  dates 
1511,  but  is  indifferent  The  effigy  of 
Our  Lady  of  La  Piedad  orer  the  door  is 
also  indifferent  The  only  altar  in  it  is 
of  bronse  and  marble,  a  present  of  Car- 
dinal Lorenzana.  The  moeaic  orer  it 
represents  a  Virgin  and  Child,  and  was 
brought  from  Bome  by  the  same  cardin- 
al, and  cost  £4000.  The  square  chapel 
itself  ii  small,  and  offers  nothing  re- 
markable, except  the  large  freeco  repre- 
senting different  episodes  of  the  oonquest 
of  Orsn  by  Cardinal  CSsneros,  for 

Phuna,  purpwa :  ycspsda. 
Solo  on  CisaoftM  m  hallft. 

To  the  right,  the  ft*wi^«*1  is  seen  em- 
barking at  Cartsgena,  May  16,  1509, 
with  a  fleet  of  10  men-of-war  and  80 
galleys,  1100  horsemen,  and  0000  foot 
soldiers.  To  the  left,  the  picture  re- 
presents the  landing  at  Men-el-Ket4r, 
a  pirate's  nest  close  to  Orsn ;  that  in 
the  centre  represents  the  assault  and 
capture  of  the  town.  Obserre  the 
septusgenarian  cardinal  riding  on  a 
mule  and  preceded  by  the  Franciscan 
monk.    Fray    Fernando^    bearing   his 


standard.  The  fresco  was  painted  by 
the  oontemporsiy  Juan  de  BorgoAa, 
1514.  Ita  merit  is  indifferent,  and  the 
penpectiTe  Chinese-like ;  but  it  is  qiost 
curious  for  the  dresses,  arms,  erolutions 
of  troops^  etc ;  and  it  would  be  interest- 
ing to  form  a  photographic  collection 
of  all  such-like  fiesMss  in  Spain,  the 
battles  at  Escurial,  etc  This  chapel 
was  founded  to  pieseife  in  all  its  pu- 
rity the  forms  of  the  Gothic  ritual, 
csUed  Mostsrabe  or  Muzkrabe  (the  first 
is  oftener  met  in  Spanish  history,  the 
second  in  bsllads),  because  used  by  the 
Muz4rabes,Mixti  Arabes,  a  name  giren 
to  the  Goths,  who  sgreed  to  lire  under 
the  Moslem  rule,  retaining  their  Chris- 
tian worship.' 


Th«  oldfist  ritual  in  Spain  wat  the  ApoatoUc 
■och  as,  aocordinf  to  St  Gregory,  wat 
followed  in  their  time,  and  ooosiited  of  tha  Our 
Father,  and  the  wonb  pronottncad  by  Jems 
C3irisK  at  the  Lord's  Sapper.  Santiago  (St. 
JaoMS  the  Elder)  added  a  few  prayers,  and  this 
was  the  primitiTe  form  of  mass,  which  was  pre- 
scnrrd  till  the  reign  of  Sisenardos.  This  rite 
was  dereloped,  completed,  and  reformed  in 
Rocae :  but  continued  the  same  in  Spain  and 
part  of  Gothic  Gaul:  was  somewhat  adulterated 
by  the  contact  with  Arianism,  but  purified  \ff 
San  Isidoro  (auricular  confc  MJon  had  been  sup- 
pressed),  and  the  fourth  Cbunca  of  Toledo  or- 
dered that  it  should  be  followed  ereiyufhere. 
Queen  Coetanra,  at  the  instigation  of  Bishop 
Bernard,  backed  by  Rome,  endeavoured  to 
supprem  it  and  introduce  the  Roman  or  Gre- 
gorian mass.  The  oppooition  was  great  An 
appeal  to  the  Judicium  Dd  turned  agafaist  the 
desired  innovation.  The  Pope  was  consulted ; 
a  council  was  assembled  at  Burgos,  and  decided 
for  the.  Rito  Galioo  or  Gregorian ;  but  Toledo 
appealed  again  to  the  Judgment  of  God,  and 
now  the  booles  themaelvcs  were  the  champions. 

*  When  the  exuking  soldiers,  whose  excesses 
at  the  sndc  of  Oran  were  fiendish,  saluted  him 
as  the  conqueror,  he  oseekly  answered,  like  the 
Moslem  Prince  Ibnu-l-Alunaer  after  the  captme 
of  Seville,  and  the  Black  Prince  after  the  vic- 
tory of  NiO^ra :  '  Non  nobis,  non  nobis,  aed,* 
etc:  but  the  truth  is  that  the  real  conquerors 
were  Pedro  Navarro^  and  the  terror  that  pos- 
sessed the  Moots  when  they  peicelved  that  thr 
first  head  they  cut  had  only  one' eye  I 


446 


TOLKDO-— OATHEDRAL. 


A  ifl»  was  boilc  np  in  the  Zocodovr,  tkt  two 
nanb  pkood  tids  hj  tide,  and  firo  mi  to  the 
wood.  Tho  test  of  fire  wet  fiivoanble  to  the 
Toleden  ritual,  whidi  remained  unooosumed, 
whilst  the  Roman  nussal  was  reduced  to  ashes. 
This  decision  was  equally  disregarded  by  the 
defeated ;  but  'il  est  avec  le  del* (and  eren  the 
pope)  'des  aocoaBmodementt  .•*  and  to  satisfy  all 
parties  both  rituals  were  inseniously  anudga« 
ffntf^  *nnAfT  the  rf***i*  of '  Mistale  f»i»*^«ffi  a^* 
cuodum  ooQSuetndinem  afanm  Eccleeia  Tole- 
tansB.*  However,  the  constant  influence  of 
Rone  at  length  prevailed,  eqMcially  through 
political  motives;  and  on  Nor.  e,  1574,  ^ 
cathednd  aenrices  began  tofbOowthe  eyample 
set  by  odier  churches  of  ^Mun,— the  Muskrabes 
only  retaining  sax  churches,  vis.,  St.  Eulalia, 
Sl  Sebastisn,  St  Marcos,  St  Lucas,  St.  Justa, 
St  Torcato,  v^iich  twenty-five  yean  ago  were 
still  eaclusively  used  for  that  rite;  the  last 
Concordat  has  sanrfioned  the  continuance  of  it 
only  in  Qsneroe'  chi^d,  %riiere  nuss  is  said 
every  day  about  9.30  a.m.,  but  it  is  indi£Rerently 
attended,  ■twi  has  **«>^»*— »<«  m  mere  fiturnc  curi* 
oeity,  which  must  sooner  or  later  disiqipear. 
The  ritual  is  very  sinqile  and  imposing.  Auri- 
cular Confession  is  wnittod ;  the  credo  is  said  at 
the  devation,  the  waflsr  is  divided  into  nine 
parts,  rspiesentiiMF  the  Incarnation,  Epiphany, 
Nadvity,  Orcuaacision,  Passion,  Death,  Resur- 
rection, Ascension,  and  the  Eternal  Kingdom. 
Seven  of  those  portions  are  placed  to  lorm  a 

The  prayers  and  collects  teem  with  fervour  and 
true  eloquence,  and  many  of  them  hove  been 
introduced  in  the  Book  of  Common  Prayer. 
Masses  are  said  here  at  the  request  of  visitors 
and  for  a  trifle.  The  letters  of  Pope  Gregory 
VII.,  that  may  be  found  in  Hardouin's  '  Re- 
cenil  des  Condles,  etc,  tome  vi  ptL,aremost 
curious  to  consult  upon  this  subject 

Ooq^iUa  tU  la  ^rfAifKa.— Qothio,  of 
16th  oentoij,  rebuilt  in  the  16th.  A 
Gothic  altar,  with  aarij  plctoret  of 
little  meriti  and  two  painted  marble 
ftatoea. 

OajriUa  tU  la  OmMpeum.— Of  the 
indifferent  Gothie^  be^^nning  of  19th 
oentory.  AretaUoof  theearljQennan 
•chooL  Orer  the  Pnerta  LUna  are 
fonrehiaroeonro  pietorea  by  Comonte% 
middle  of  16th  century,  rery  dark  and 
aombre^  aaid  to  repreaent  the  four 
SybOa. 

Oapaia  Am  iforitfik— Gothic,  Tery 
florid,  founded  beginning  of  the  16th 


centory.  A  fine  r^a  by  Joan  French 
The  retablo  ia  platcseaqne ;  the  pietorea 
early  bat  inferior ;  moat  of  them  aaoribed 
to  Frandaco  de  Amberea  (Antwerp), 
and  the  St.  Martin  to  Andrea,  a  Floren- 
tine painter. 

CapUia  de  Stm  Ap«fi<9.— Founded 
abont  beginning  of  18th  century ;  re- 
paired and  moatly  rebuilt  beginning  of 
16th  century.  A  fine  iron  r^a,  and 
platereaque  retablo  deaigned  by  Enrique 
deEgaa,  1600,  and  Kaeaefiodrigo.  The 
San  Eugenic  in  centre  ia  by  Diego  Copin, 
1617,  on  wood ;  and  the  aeriee  of  pic* 
turea  repreaenting  the  Childhood  and 
Death  of  Chriat  are  by  Juan  de  Bor- 
gofia,  1516.  O9  the  left  ii  a  fine  plater- 
eaque  tomb  with  an  alabaater  lying  effigy 
of  Biahop  GbatUlo^  ob.  1521.  Oppoaite 
ia  a  tomb  of  exquiaite  atyle,  in  imitation 
of  the  Saracenic  art  of  18th  century, 
with  an  Arabic  inacription.  It  ia  the 
tomb  of  the  Tdedan  algnaiil  Feman 
Gudlel,  ob.  1278.  In  hia  epitaph  he  ia 
aaid  to  haTe  been — 'may  onrrado  ca- 
Tollero^'  and  'muy  laxedor  de  algo. 
Sirrio  bien  i  Jeauchriato,  e  i  Sancta 
Maria,  e  al  Rey,  e  i  Toledo,  de  nocte  e 
dedia.' 

On  paaaing  thia  chapel,  on  the  wall 
ia  the  uaual  painting  of  San  CHatobal, 
50  ft  hi^  and  therefore  juatly  called 
Criatobalon ;  thia  Chriatoa  ferena  waa 
repainted  1686,  by  G.  de  Baeda.  Op- 
poaite to  it  ia  a  Taluable  ptotore  of 
Luia  Triftan  repreaenting  St  Frandade 
Paole. 

The  interior  portal  de  loe  Leoim  ia 
exquiaite,  and  Qotho-platereaqae.  Ob- 
aerre  the  fine  Gothic  tomba  with  reliert 
The  learea  of  the  doora,  aa  before  atated, 
are  elaborately  worked,  and  gema  of  the 
kind;  they  date  16th  century.  Over 
the  portal  \m,%  medallion  repreaenting 
in  meno-relieTO^  the  genealogical  tree 
of  the  Virgin  Mary,  among  the  branehea 
of  which  we  aee  the  Patriarchy  foi«« 


TOLEDO— OATHKDRAL. 


447 


&then  of  the  Viigiii,  who  crown  the 
work,  holding  the  Ohild.  Abore  thiB» 
and  in  the  centre  of  a  atorey  or  etMfjN)  of 
plateresqne  architeotue,  with  el^^ant 
balostraded  pillara  and  good  statoea  of 
DaWd  and  another  prophet,  ia  a  fine 
marble  medallion  of  G.  de  BoigoAa, 
repreeenting  the  Coronation  of  the  Vir- 
gin. The  other  •oulptnre  here  ia  fiill 
of  good  ornamentation  and  detaila,  by 
Co^n,  Aleas,  Salmeron,  and  othen. 
The  roae-window  oyer  thia  ia  20  ft.  in 
diameter,  and  with  ^oriona  colonra. 

Capilla  de  SUl  Idtcia  (htx,  whence 
ahe  is  the  Patron  Saint  of  occnliata,  and 
corea  diaeaaea  of  the  ai^t).  On  the 
aides  of  the  entrance  are  two  pictnree^  a 
St  John,  ascribed  to  Ribera  by  some, 
and  to  CaraTaggio  by  other  iiMigmUes; 
and  to  the  right,  San  Bsrtolome^  by 
Maella,  1786,  one  among  the  least  bad 
of  this  indifferent  artist  The  medal- 
liona  are  modem,  and  aa  to  the  Mar- 
riage of  the  Yiigin — ^thooe  who  aee  it 
need  not  be  assored  that  it  ia  erroneoualy 
aacribed  to  a  eikffr€  Wamdiqm,  This 
small  Gothic  chapel  is  interesting^  aa 
being  among  the  earliest  built  It  waa 
founded  by  Archbishop  Bodrigo  de  Bade, 
and  contains  aepulchral  inacriptiona  of 
the  18th  century. 

CapiUa  d$  IUye»  Ft^.— Founded  in 
1290  by  Archbishop  Palomeque,  under 

and  called  ao  to  distinguish  it  from  that 
of  Lm  Bityes  Nu$vo9.  It  took  thia 
name  when  the  Chapel  de  Santa  Crus 
was  remoTcd  to  it  The  iron  reja, 
painted  red  and  gilt,  ia  a  masterpiece  of 
C^^edea,  1529,  and  of  the  platereaque 
atyle.  The  retabloa  of  the  altars  are 
platereaque,  1680,  by  Frandaco  Comon- 
tesL  Obserye  yery  particularly  the  pic- 
turea  here,  intereating  aa  data  for  the 
history  of  oil  paintin^g^  aa  they  data 
1418  1  They  are  all  by  the  Toledan, 
Juan  Alfon.  Orer  the  high  altar  are 
The  Coming  of  the  Hdy  Ghoet,  Reaur- 


rection  of  the  Lord,  the  Lord  Appearing 
to  the  Virgin,  His  Apparition  to  tht 
Magdalen,  Katiyity,  Baptism,  Trana- 
fignration,  Aacension,  etc  The  email 
walnut  atalla  that  compoee  the  small 
choir,  used  exdusiyely  by  the  Capellanea 
Beales^  are  plain  and  good. 

Ooqritta  d$  la  TrinitUuL^A  fine  pU- 
tereaque  railing. 

C4>illa  de  San  Ildafonao.— One  of 
the  earlieat,  founded  by  Archbiahop 
Bodrigo.  Thia  yery  elegant  octagon 
Gothic  chapel,  considerably  beautified 
and  somewhat  modified  towarda  the 
end  of  the  14th  century  by  Cardinal 
Albomoi,  ia  dedicated  to  San  Ildefonac^ 
the  great  lion  with  Toledan  hagiologiBta^ 
and  yery  popular  with  Spanish  painters^ 
legend-mongers^  and  aaoristanea. 


Tins  niat  wm  bom  at  Toledo^  in  690^  and 
was  odcbnted  m  an  doQocnt  oonliovcnialist 
and  advocata  of  the  dogma  of  the  laiiaanihla 
Conception.  The  Vngin,  by  way  of  gratttoda, 
casMdownfron  beavuif  and  attended  atiMtine 
in  the  cathedial,  aittiag  in  Sl  Ildefeoao't  aeaL 
Atanodwr  time  ahe  aligiilad  iathe  cathedial, 
and  placed  00  the  Mine  adnft  •hoolden  the 
catmlU  (caseock)  iHiidi  is  (MiShpr)actiia]|ykcpt 
in  the  famous  area  at  Oriedo.  TIms  aaiat,  who 
became  Primata  of  Toledo,  died  ia  617.  His 
giand  lestiral  takes  place  here  oa  Jamiaiy  as. 

The  yeijaa  at  the  entrance  are  by 
Kaeae  Paulo.  The  altar  ia  modem,  and 
a  substitute  for  the  Gothic  flamboyant 
one  remoyed  about  1788.  It  waa  de- 
aigned  by  the  RA'a  of  the  end  of  the 
last  century,  headed  by  Ventura  Bodri* 
gues.  Here  ia  buried  the  Archbishop 
Cardinal  Albomos,  who  died  1884,  in 
Italy,  and  for  the  oonyeyanoe  of  whoee 
body  in  an  economical  way  Pope  Urban 
y.  granted  plenary  indulgenoea  to  all 
thoae  who  would  cany  it  any  distance 
on  their  ahonlders.  Seyeral  other  mem- 
bera  of  that  puissant  clerical  family  are 
buried  here,  and  the  plattteaque  tomb 
of  hia  nephew,  the  Biahop  of  Ayila 
(ob.  1514),  is  quM  remarkable^  and  a 


448 


TOLEDO — CATHEDRAL — CHAPELS. 


gem  of  ita  kind.  ObieiTe  the  beasi- 
relieyi  niohei^  medaUioni,  etc,  picked 
out  in  white  and  gold  (estofado)  by  one 
'Tegada»  1646.  There  ia  anotiier  fine 
Gothic  tomb  of  Don  Iftigo  de  Mendoza, 
▼ioeroy  of  Sardinia,  who  died  at  the 
degb  of  Granada  in  1491.  Obaerre  the 
details  of  armoory  and  dreaa.  It  is,  on 
the  whole,  a  striking  work.  Obaerye 
the  aomewhat  norel  treatment  of  the 
Taulting  riba,  fringed  with  coapa  and 
large  traceried  windows. 

OaplUft  de  Santiaco,  a  pendant  to 
former. — One  of  the  fineat,  and  of 
the  rich  Gothic  of  the  16th  oentniy 
(1486).  It  ia  a  gem  of  taate  and 
elegance.  The  chapel  is  in  the  form 
of  an  octagon,  and  all  of  atone,  both 
exterior  and  interior.  The  three  doors, 
roo£i,  walla,  pillara,  etc.,  are  most 
elabmtely  decorated  with  rich  Gothic 
filigree  Saracenic  work.  It  waa  founded 
for  hiitf  family  rault  by  Don  Alraro 
de  Lnna,  the  constable  of  Caatile, 
daring  hia  greater  privoMU  (fkronrit- 
iam).  See  his  arms,  a  white  moon 
(/una).  The  outward  appearance  is 
that  of  a  castle,  aa  it  is  fiidahed  with  a 
battlement  and  orerhanging  torreta  at 
the  anglea.  The  Gothic  altar  oppoaite 
the  entrance  datea  1498,  and  is  the 
work  of  Gnmiel  and  othera.  The 
retablo  is  diyided  into  fifteen  compart- 
menta ;  in  the  centre  is  an  eqneatrian 
statae  of  Santiago.  Obaerye^  among 
other  early  pictures  (none  of  great 
▼alne),  the  portraits  of  Don  Alyaro  in 
hia  dress  of  Grand  Master  of  the  Order 
of  Santiago,  and  hia  daughter  Dofta 
Maria.  Orer  the  retablo  is  a  colossal 
meoo-reliero  Santiago  on  horseback, 
slaying  infidela,  aa  became  the  patron 
aaint  of  medinTal  Spain.  The  other 
two  altars  are  indifferent  and  modem. 
The  tomba  are  very  fine,  and  deserve 
doae  inspection.  In  the  centre  rise 
two    white    marble    mausoleums    of 


Gothic  style  and  faVL  of  sculpturing^ 
with  recumbent  effigies.  In  that  to- 
the  right  liea  the  founder,  Don  Alyaro 
de  Luna;  hia  wife^  Dolia  Joana,  is 
buried  in  that  to  the  left  (ob.  1468). 
At  the  comera  are  statuea  of  knights 
of  Santiago,  kneeling  in  prayer.  At  the 
founder's  feet  is  a  helmet  crowned  with 
ivy  and  laurel,  and  close  by  a  kneel- 
^S  WS^  perhapa  the  very  one  who, 
Jtel  hasta  en  la  muaie^  accompanied 
the  constable  to  the  scaiFold  at  Yalla- 
dolid,  where  he  was  executed,  1461. 
Don  Alvaro  lies  in  armour,  which  is 
partly  concealed  by  his  robes  of  the 
order,  his  handa  croased  devoutly  over 
his  heart.  The  fkoe  looka  older  and 
more  austere  than  he  is  said  to  have 
been  when  he  died.  There  ia  a  mixed 
expression  of  sadness  and  reaignation 
on  his  face.  Here  he  liea,  now  but  a 
mere  object  of  liatless  curiosity  from 
the  passing  traveller,  who  adcs  his 
name^  and,  knowing  it,  knows  but 
little  more  about  that  man  who  was, 
said  Pius  II.,  'of  a  very  lofty  mind, 
aa  great  in  war  aa  he  waa  in  peace, 
and  whose  soul  breathed  none  but 
noble  thoughts.'  He  certainly  wa% 
like  most  favourites^  'a  man  of  an 
unbounded  stomach.'  But  if  he.  waa 
ambitious,  he  grievously  answered  for 
this  crime ;  for  this  man,  who  waa 
almost  a  king,  whose  power  and  riches 
were  unlimited,  and  who  inspired  so 
much  love  and  so  much  hatred,  died 
like  a  murderer,  and  waa  buried  by 
charity.  The  firat  mausoleum  he  had 
erected  to  himself  waa  very  fine,  and 
the  recumbent  efiigy  ao  constructed 
that,  when  mass  waa  said,  the  automa- 
ton, dad  in  armour,  used  to  rise 
dowly,  and  remain  kneding  until  the 
service  waa  ended,  when  it  would 
resume  its  former  posture.  It  is  said 
to  have  been  wilfully  destroyed  by  hi& 
old  enemy,  Don  Henrique  of  Aragon, 
when  he  entered  Toledo ;  others  assert 


TOLEDO — GATHEDRAI* 


449 


that  Queen  leabeU*  had  it  remored,  as 
■he  considered  it*  raj  jnsUy,  profane 
and  irreverent  At  tiie  oomers  of  his 
wife's  maosoleinn  stand  foor  Fnmcis- 
can  monks.  The  ill-iated  and  gentle 
DoAa  Jnana,  daughter  of  Oimde  de 
BenaTente,  is  drened  most  plain}/, 
with  her  lady-in-waiting^  some  great 
friend,  no  doabt,  who  is  at  her  feet 
reading  prayers  oyer  her  good  mistress 
(oh.  X488).  Thejr  are  both  the  work 
of  Pkblo  Ortis,  and  were  erected  hj 
their  daughter,  Dofia  Maria.  Ohserfe 
also  the  fine  Gothic  tombs  of  Arch- 

• 

bishop  Geresoela,  Don  AItsto's  nnde 
(ob.  1448),  end  that  of  Arohbiahop 
Don  Pedro  de  Lons,  another  nnde  of 
his  (ob.  1414),  both  remarkable  for  the 
details  of  drees  and  modelling.  That 
on  the  side  of  la  Epiitola  is  of  a  Lona, 
also  called  Conde  de  Santistiban,  a  fine 
statae^  with  rich  sncient  armonr.  Here 
ii  also  inteired  the  Archbishop  of  To- 
ledo, who  died  in  1857. 

CapiUa  d$  Beyn  AWeoot.— The  Royal 
Chapel,  fonnded  for  the  interment  of 
the  princes  of  the  bastard  line  that 
began,  after  Don  Pedro's  mnrder  at 
Montiel,  with  his  brother,  and  lasted 
for  five  generations.  It  was  founded 
for  his  and  their  burial  by  Henrique  XL 
'Before  that  spot,' says  heinhiswiD, 
dated  Boigoe,  1874,  '  where  the  Yiigin 
8t  Mary  ali^ted  end  stood  when  she 
presented  the  cassock  (or  chasuble)  to 
San  Alfonso  (Udefonso),  in  whom  (the 
Yiigin)  we  hare  great  fidth  and  ooq- 
fidenoe,  because  ^e  helped  us  out  of 
many  difficulties  and  dangers  when  we 
stood  in  need  of  aid.'  Bnt,  as  it  was 
ill  placed,  end  in  the  way  of  cloister 
processions,  etc,  it  was  remored  in  the 
16th  century  to  its  present  site,  when 
this  chapel  was  buUt  up.  Alfonso  de 
CoTarrubias  was  the  arishitect  named 
by  ArchUshop  Oardinsl  TaTsra,  by 
whom  all  the  expenses  were  defrayed. 
It  is  a  gem  of  the  plateresque,  full  of 

2 


elegance  and  taste.    Obserre  the  beauti- 
fnl  entrance-arch,  with  statues  of  kings- 
at-anns^  holding  the  escutcheons   of 
Osstile  and  Leoi,  and  an  exquisite 
bronae-gQt  r^a  by  04spedes.     Hence, 
through  a  small  dark  ante-chi^>el,  we 
enter  the  capilla  itself^  consisting  of 
one  nsTc,  grained  with  a  three-sided 
Tault,  formed  by  two  richly-decorated 
arches.    The  joints  of  the  stones  are 
picked  out  with  gold  and  blue  fillets; 
The  fire  altars  are  classical,  and  de- 
signed by  y.  Bodrignes,  1777— a  sad 
substitution  for  the  former  ones  of  the 
16th  century.     The  painting  is  all  by 
'the  poor  Maella.    Ohserfe  the  stand- 
ard, kept  in  a  leathern  purser  said  to 
haTs  been  taken  at  the  battle  of  Salado^ 
1840,  and  a  complete  suit  of  armour, 
ascribed  by  some  to  the  Moorish  prince 
Abu  Mal^    Under  rich  gold  niches, 
admirably  decorated,  are  the  tombe, 
with  jacent  effigies,  of  Henrique  II. 
(ob.  1878)  and  his  queen  DoAa  Juana 
(ob.l881),  both  on  the  side  of  the  Eran- 
gelio.     On  that  of  the   Epistola  lie 
Henrique  III.  (ob.  1407)  and  his  queen 
Dofia  Gatalina  (ob.  1418),  also  John  of 
Qaunf s  dau^ter,  DoAa  Ostalina  de 
Alencastre  (Lancaster).    The  kneeling 
statue  of  Juan   II.    is   by  Juan  de 
BcrgiAa,  and  good.     Obserre,  more- 
orer,  the  plateresque  niches,  with  the 
tombs  of  Juan  II.  and  DoAaLeoncr 
(oK  1890  and  1888),  with  statues  by 
Ccntreras.     The  effigies  of  Henrique 
II.  and  DoAa  Juana  were  the  work  of 
artists  their  contemporaries,  and  there- 
fore liksoesses  of  the  fhttriddal  Tras- 
tamara.     The   sculptor  was   Maestro 
Anrriqnei      The    usurper'  holds    the 
sceptre  with  a  firm  and  anxioos  grasp» 
as  if,  eren  after  death,  he  was  not  sure 
it  would  not  be  wrested  from  him,  as 
he  wrested  it  from  Don  Pedro. 

OapUta  dd  Sagnno,^ThB  imsge  of 
the  Virgin,  which  is  here  held  in  great 
Tcneration,  is  certainly  Tery  eariy,  as 
O 


450 


TOLEDO— GATHSDRAL. 


there  ia  no  doubt  it  wis  already  in 
the  fonner  cathedial,  and  is  laid  to 
have  been  broa^t  l^  San  Engenin^ 
and  to  be  one  of  the  many  uniqus  and 
authmUie  portimita  of  the  Virgin.  The 
eiBgy  ii  of  wood,  darkened  hj  time ; 
but  it  ii  all  ooncealed,  eaTe  the  ftoe 
and  handa,  nnder  a  maaa  of  aQyer  and 
tawdry  rnimtoi,  and  the  rich  throne 
apon  which  ahe  ii  aeated  ia  alaosoaroely 


Where  thia  portion  of  the  cathedral 
(including  the  oohavo^  oiBoea,  aacriatj, 
and  teaoro)  now  atand%  there  atood 
formerly  an  hoei^tal,  and  aereral  priTate 
hooaei^  which  were  all  pnlleddown  by 
ArohUahop  Qniroga,  at  the  end  of  the 
16th  eentory,  and  the  pveaent  bnildingi 
were  deaigned  and  executed,  1692,  hj 
Kioolaa  de  Yergara,  the  younger.  It 
was  completed  in  1616  by  Arohbiahop 
Sandoral  y  Bojaa,  who  employed  Mone- 
gro  and  othera  aa  architeetak  Thia  edi- 
ilce  ia  all  of  atone^  of  cliwical  atyle^ 
and  diTided  into  three  large  portiona— 
Tis.  lat^  compriaiiig  the  Chapel  of 
Santa  Ifarina,  aagrario^  ocharo,  and  ita 
Teatibule;  2d,  ante  aacriaty,  aacriaty, 
▼eatry-room,  where  the  cuatodia  ii  kept; 
8d,  patio^  minor  doiatera,  treaaure- 
houae,  etc  We  ahall  briefly  deecribe 
them.  OapiUa  de  Sta,  ifar<iia.<-Juat 
before  the  entrance^  and  on  the  pave- 
ment»  obeerre  a  plain  large  copper 
alab,  with  the  laconic  inacription  in 
gUt  letters  :  'Hie  jacet  polyia,  dnia, 
nuUua*  ( 'here  liea  du8t»  aahea,  noogjit') : 
this  ia  the  tomb  of  the  great  Oardinal 
Arehbiihop  I>on  Luia  Fernandas  de 
Portooarrero  (ob.  1709),  a  kingmaker, 
who  contributed  chiefly  to  the  aucceaa 
of  the  French  party  in  the  war  of  auo- 
cearion,  and  thua  it  ii  that,  curioualy 
enough,  the  present  Queen  of  Spain 
owea  her  crown  to  an  ancestor  of  Eu- 
genia Montyo  de  Teba,  Gusman  y  Por- 
tocarrero.  The  entrance  ia  all  of  pie- 
dons  marblea  (1610).    The  frescoes  of 


this  ante-capilla  are  by  Oardncho  and 
Oaz^  There  are  two  pUlars  of  rich 
jaaper%  and  the  floor  is  of  predoua 
marbleaL  The  portrait  of  Oardinal  San- 
doyal  and  a  Crucifixion  are  by  Luia 
Triatan.  The  Chapel  of  the  Sagrario 
ia  86  feet  aquare  in  extent ;  it  ia  most 
richly  and  gaudily  ornamented  with 
marbles,  gilt  bnmses,  etc.  The  altar, 
all  of  iflyer  gilt^  coat  upwarda  of 
£11,000.  Here  are  the  tomba  of  the 
Sandorala.  The  freacoea  are  by  the 
pitUaret  deeaimara^  Oardncho  and  Cax^ 

North  Sid4  qf  Tra0utpL^TlM  interior 
portal  of  the  dock  or  feria.  The  inte- 
rior door  ia  divided  into  two  folda,. 
which,  aa  already  atated,  are  daboratdy 
worked  by  the  Madrilenian  modema, 
Zurreno  (1718),  who  carred  that  on 
the  left^  and  Domingues  (1716),  who 
made  the  right  one^  both  inferior  to 
those  of  the  Puerta  de  loe  Leonea^ 
Orrer  the  door  are  atatuea  of  the  Virgin 
praying  and  Arohbiahop  Gabrid,  by 
Nicolaa  de  Veigara  the  dder,  and  T.  B. 
Vasquei  (16th  coitury).  On  the  key- 
stone of  the  arch  there  ia  a  drcular 
medallion  with  a  mesao-rdiero  oom* 
podtion  of  Gregorio  de  Borgofta,  1642; 
representing  the  apparition  of  Sit  Leo- 
cadia  to  St  Udefonao.  The  medalli<ma 
at  the  aidea  are  by  Vasquei.  At  the 
ddea  of  thedodc  are  chiaroacuro  figurea 
by  Comontea.  Two  antomatona^  by 
Copin  de  Hdanda,  atrike  the  hours. 
Over  the  door  ia  a  fine  rose-window, 
20  ft  in  diameter.  The  other  paint- 
inga  are  indiflerent;  and  of  the  17th 
century. 

Chfitta  de  Son  iWro.— Founded  in 
the  bf|;inning  of  the  16th  century  by 
Cbrdind  BoJaa.  It'ia  of  the  Gothic 
florid,  and  waa  oonaiderably  repaired 
and  embdliahed  by  Oardinal  Lorsn- 
Sana,  who  unfortunatdy  had,  to  aeAor 
mama,  avail  himadf  of  the  poor  Bayen 
aa  the  painter.  The  founder'a  tomb  ia 
here^  with  a  good  jaoent  atatoe  of  the 


TOLEDO — CATHEDRAL. 


451 


16th  centoij  (oik  1422).  The  altars 
are  clasrical,  and  gandily  decorated. 
The  Chapel  qf  La  FUa  BauHsnuU  has 
an  elegant  Toja  hj  C^epedea  (1634), 
with  platereeqne  medallions.  On  the 
walls  are  two  early  retabloa  bj  Fran- 
cisco de  Amberes  (1607). 

The  AUar  of  La  Antigua  has  little  to 
call  onr  attention,  ssts  the  image  of 
the  y  iigin  and  Chfld,  before  which  the 
banners  of  the  Spanish  king's  troops 
nsed  to  be  blessed  on  the  ere  of  any 
expedition  against  the  Moors.  The 
Chapel  of  El  Criito  de  lae  Cucharae  is 
Gothic,  and  founded  in  the  16th  cen- 
tury by  the  wife  of  the  Mariscal  de  Lo- 
pes de  Padilla.  See  their  arms,  broad 
huge  cucharas  called  padillas,  paddles, 
patonillas — punning  canting  arms  be- 
ing as  much  the  fashion  in  Spain  (see 
lunae,  mpatae)  as  in  the  rest  of  medi- 
eval Europe. 

Capilladela  Torre^cirdeloeOomimigoe. 
—Founded  by  Cardinal  Tayera,  with  a 
fine  plateresque  iafade  by  Aleas,  Gre- 
gorio  de  Borgofta^  and  others.  The 
chapel  was  dedgned  by  Antonio  de  Co- 
varrubias  (ob.  1688).  The  marble^  with 
black  and  gold  fillets,  stalactite  arte- 
sonado  rool^  is  in  great  taste.  The 
three  altars  are  all  plateresque.  Ob- 
senre  a  fine  crucifix  canred  hj  Yeigara 
el  Yiq'o,  a  Yiigin  and  St  John,  chUro- 
scuro  paintingi  by  Comontes. 

CapiUa  de  la  Virgk^  de  Fiedra,-^ 
This  is  belieTed  to  be  the  site  of  the 
high  altar  of  the  former  cathedral,  and 
the  Tery  spot  where  the  Virgin  alighted, 
on  her  risit  to  San  Ildefonso^  wImu,  on 
passing  by  her  statne  (now  at  the 
Sagrario  Chapel),  she  embraced  it 
afiectionately,  and  then  proceeded  to 
invest  her  theological  champion  with 
the  caiuUa,  as  if -it  were  a  knight's 
manta*    A  small  chapel  was  raised  on 

*  See  Cakleroa*t  coflaedy  of  '  La  Virgoi  del 
Sagrario  hallada,  perdida  y  rccobnda/  b  which 
the  Virgin,  on  naJctiig  a  present  of  the  cmsmlbi. 


the  spot,  which  was  enlarged  and  beau- 
tified by  Archbishop  Fonseca,  and  railed 
in  by  Ihe  present  d^gant  r^a  in  1610, 
by  Cardinal  Sandoral  y  Kojas.  Its 
shape  is  pyramidal,  all  of  marble,  picked 
out  with  gold,  and  about  10  ft  square. 
At  the  foot  of  the  altar  is  inteired  Car- 
dinal Mosooso  of  Sai^doyal  (ob.  1666). 
The  altar  and  retablo  are  of  alabaster 
and  gilt  bronzes.  The  sculpturing  of 
the  retablo  is  by  the  two  Borgoftss, 
Corarrubiaih  and  Almonadd.  The  cen- 
tral medallion  represents  the  Descent 
of  Our  Lady,  and  dates  1688.  On 
the  side  of  ^e  Epistola  is  enclosed, 
within  red  jasper,  the  stone  on  which 
the  Yiigin  slighted,  which  is  kissed  and 
touched,  and  thus  (etymologically 
speaking)  really  adored  by  all  devoUm 
de  Maria  SanUUima. 

iSocriffy.— Built,  as  before  stated 
(Capilla  del  Sagrario),  by  Archbishop 
Bojas,  at  beginning  of  17th  century. 
The  large  room,  called  ante-saoristia,  is 
42  ft  long  by  20  ft  wide^  and  86  ft 
high.  The  tombs  of  the  first  arch- 
bifiiops  of  Toledo  that  were  elected  after 
the  reconquista,  are  indifferent ;  the 
pictures  are  mostly  by  Cig4s,  Oardueho, 
and  Ricci ;  a  Fli^t  into  Egypt,  by 
Jordan.  Here  we  enter  a  glorious  sa- 
loon, 100  ft  long  by  88  ft  wide  and 
60  ft  high,  with  a  pavement  of  white, 
black,  and  red  marbles,  and  the  roof 
finely,  though,  as  usual,  too  hastily, 
painted,  by  Giordano,  truly  Luca  Fa 
Presta  lliere  is  a  good  painting  by 
Greece,  representing  Christ  stripped  of 
his  garments,  one  of  the  Boman  sol- 
diers being  the  painter^s  own  portrait 
There  are  also  the  Taking  of  Christ,  and 
Mount  Oliyet,  by  Goya ;  the  Apparition 
of  Sta.  Leocadia  to  San  Udefonso ;  Ka- 


the  Saiot  that  the  nm  itself  it  dark  ( 
pared  to  this  gtittering  chasuhle,  'Take  it, 
than,'  she  sajs»  *  asd  try  to  look  w«n  io  it  oa 
my  festival  For  as  thou  hast  ptochiimed  Bt 
te  dmmm^  I  wish  yoa  to  dress  to  my  futey.* 


452 


TOLEDO — CATHEDRAL. 


tiyity  and  Adorfttion  of  Kings,  hy  Pedro 
Orrente ;  the  Deluge,  by  one  of  the 
Basaanoe ;  St  Angnatin,  etc  etc,  by 
Jnan  de  Pantoja.  The  atatne  of  the 
Cardinal  Borbon,  Archbiahop  of  Toledo 
(ob.  1828),  ia  by  Salvatierra,  and  indif- 
ferent Obaenre  also  an  Apoatolado  by 
el  Qrecoa  The  pictures  on  the  roof 
represent  the  Descent  of  the  Yiigin 
Maiy,  and  placing  of  the  chasuble  on 
San  Ildefonso.  The  painter's  portrait 
ia  next  the  window  to  left  of  altar. 

Fesiuario. — The  roof  of  this  square 
room  was  painted  by  Claudio  Coello 
y  Donoso,  in  1671.    Pictures, — Baptism 
of  Christ^  by  Qiordano ;  a  fine  copy  of 
Raphael's  Holy  Family  and  St  John  ; 
a  Crucifixion,  by  Titian  (f) ;  a  portrait 
of  Pope  Clement  YII.,  by  Yan  Dyck ; 
a  Circumcision  of  Our  Lord,  by  Fran- 
cesco Bassano;  a  Katiyity,  by  his  father, 
Jacob  Baasano  ;  a  Samaritan,  ascribed 
toMengs;  aYirgin  and  Child,  ascribed  to 
Rubens ;  Jesua'  Burial,  by  Juan  Bellini; 
San  Carloa  Borromeo  and  St  Philip 
Neri,  by  Guido  Reni ;  David  playing 
on   the    Harp,  by   Guerdno;    a   St 
Francis  of  el  Greece's.    Obserye  six 
finely-executed  flower-pieces,  by  Mario 
del  Fion ;  statue  of  St  Francis  by  Ac 
Oano.       VestmmtM. — The    Achly- em- 
broidered clerical  vestments  are  .worth 
a  visit     Examine  especially  Cisneroa' 
ternos,  and  others  embroidered  by  the 
great  bordadores,  Buitrago,  Talavera, 
Marcos  de  Covarmbias,  etc    Admirers 
of  embroidery  may   inquire   for   the 
tapestries,  frontala  of  high  altar,  etc 
In  the  Ouarto  de  la  (htHodia  is  kept 
this  glorious  masterpiece  of  Enrique  de 
Arfe,  who  made  it  for  Archbiahop  Cis- 
neros  in  1524.    It  belongs  to  the  florid 
Gothic,  is  9  feet  high  of  a  pyramidal 
ahape,   and   profusely  decorated  with 
260  statuettes.    It  ia  all  silver  gilt,  and 
weigha  fifteen  airobas.      The  central 
oustodia,  placed  within  to  keep  the 
boat,  was  made  with  the  gold  brought 


first  by  Columbus,  and  ordered  to  be 
made  by  Queen  Isabella. 

The  wardrobe  of  the  Yiigen  del  Sa- 
grario  is  well  worth  seeing  for  its  wealth 
is  almost  unrivalled  by  the  toilettes  oi 
the  most  extravagant  queens  in  the 
world.  Her  momlo  for  gala  days  is  all 
silver  and  gold,  with  78,000  pearls  em- 
broidered on  i^  and  diamonds,  rubies, 
and  countless  emeralds.  Her  other 
more  ordinary  robes  are  equally  splen- 
did, of  different  colours  and  embroidery. 
All  these  are  presents  of  kings  and 
queens,  popes,  archbishops,  and  private 
devotos  de  la  Yiigen,  ladies  especially. 
Her  imperial  crown  dates  16th  century, 
and  cost  upwards  of  £5000,  not  includ- 
ing the  stones.  The  bracelets,  made  by 
Julian  Honrado,  acelebrated  silversmith 
of  end  of  16th  century,  are  also  fine  and 
valuable^  about  £2000  ;  the  present 
queen  has  added  countless  gifts  of  brace- 
lets and  diamond  pins,  and  is  her  mis- 
tress of  the  robes,  comuurera  magar,* 

The  jewels  of  the  cathedral,  justly 
called  la  JSieo,  are  very  valuable ;  though 
many  disappeared  during  the  French 

*  The  Vurgin  alwayi  wean  in  Spain  the  royal 
cnywn,  and  ranks  as  a  queen.  She  has  got  a 
household  composed  of  the  greatest  ladies  of  the 
kingdom,  who  take  care  of  her  wardrobe,  altars, 
chapels,  processions,  etc. ;  she  has  also  landed 
estates,  less  now  than  before,  but  still  consider' 
able,  and  these  Uetus  dt  la  Vtrgen  are  admini- 
stered in  her  name,  and  the  revenue  invested 
for  the  use  of  her  adto.  At  Toledo,  she  was 
suaperain  lady  of  the  tovm  of  Agi^nn,  four 
leagues  from  the  city,  and  on  her  festival  women 
were  allowed  to  enter  the  cathedral  choir  during 
the  service.  Our  Saviour  is  treated  as  a  king 
(ooostitntional),  called  'His  Divine  Majesty,' 
and  when  the  host  passes  by  any  barrack,  the 
guard  turn  out,  present  arms,  and  the  royal 
anthem, '  La  Marca  Real,'  is  played.  Villages, 
and  even  the  poorest  lugar,  boast  of  their  Cristo 
de  k  Lus,  de  k  E^piha,  del  Socorro,  delCami- 
nante,  and  a  hundred  others,  and  of  their  Viigen 
de  k  Niebe,  de  k  O,  de  k  Paloma,  La  Blanca, 
etc,  and  when  rival  processions  meet,  the  co- 
frades  have  more  than  once  insulted  the  rival 
image,  pelted  it,  and  defended  theirs  with  the 
knife  and  bludgeon. 


TOLEDO — CATHEDRAL. 


453 


inyaaion,  the  rest  being  sent  to  Oadis. 
Obeeire  the  Gnion  or  Aichiepiecopel 
Croes,  the  raj  one  cairied  by  the  Cfran 
CknrdmuU,  Mendosa,  end  planted  on  the 
AUuunbra  at  the  taking  of  its  fortreas^ 
January  2, 1 49S.  The  four  parts  of  the 
world,  or  globes,  giren  by  Mary  Ann 
of  Kenbnrg,  Oharles  II's  wife ;  the 
sword  of  Alfonso  YL  ;  a  fichly  iUomi- 
nated  Bible  of  the  18th  centoiy,  giren 
by  St  Louis,  Bishop  of  Toulonse;  and, 
in  a  oomer,  within  a  paltry  nm,  the 
bones  of  kings  Wamba  and  Beccession* 
thus. 

The  Oehavo  isa  long  room,  ornamented 
with  marbles,  and  so  called  from  its 
octagon  (oeAo,  eight)  form.  The  bronzes 
were  the  work  of  a  Roman  aQrersmith, 
called  Alexander  Bracho.  Thefresooes 
are  by  Oarrefio,  Maella,  Ricd,  and  other 
worthies.  The  reliquaries  are  reiy  rich, 
especially  for  the  tnUrimic  Talue,  num- 
bering altogether  116  ;  amongst  them 
is  one  whid^  contains  part  of  the  reil 
from  Sta.  Iicocadia,  anotiier  Yiigin,  who 
Tisited  that  lucky  man,  San  Ildefonso, 
when  he  cut  it  with  the  ivory  poniard 
of  King  Reccesrinth ;  a  letter  of  St 
Louis ;  bodies  of  San  Eugenic  and  Sta. 
Iieocadia ;  jawa^  teeth,  Imee-caps,  feet 
and  IcgSi  skulls,  nerres,  and  other  ana- 
tomical subjects. 

ChapUr  ffou$e,  —  The  antesak  is 
Gothic ;  the  statues  it  contains  are  by 
Copin  (1510).  The  artesonado,  excel- 
lent The  capitular  sala  is  splendid. 
The  square  portal  is  by  Bernardino 
Bonifado,  and  is  purely  If  oorish,  with 
the  arms  of  Cisneroe.  It  was  designed 
by  Maese  Pablo  or  Paulo,  1610.  Then 
is  asumptuous  grandeur  about  this  hall 
well  suited  to  tiioee  mitred  kings  who 
sat  on  stalls  conrerted  by  art  into  un- 
rivalled thrones,  and  whose  councils 
gOTemed  the  world.  It  is  adorned 
with  precious  marbles  and  mosaics,  a 
glorious  artesonado  roof^  painted  blue 
and  red  and  gilt,  and  most  Alhambraic 


in  the  goigeous  ornamentation  and  styles 
begun  by,  Lopes  Arenas,  the  great  Seril- 
lian  orfeKmifta,  end  of  16tib  century, 
and  finished  by  Luis  Medina  and  Alfonso 
Sanchei,  in  1610.  The  frescoes  on  the 
walls  are  by  Juan  de  Borgolka,  who  also 
painted  the  portraits  of  tiie  ei|^ty-two 
arohUshops  of  Toledo,  from  St  En- 
genius  to  Zimenes,  all  likenesses  de 
eapriehOf  except  Cardinals  Mendosa  and 
XLnenes,  which  are  portraits.  The 
stalls  are  reiy  elaborately  carred,  the 
work  of  Copin  of  Holland  (1618).  On 
the  backs  the  series  of  Archbishops 
from  Ximenes  is  continued  to  this  day, 
and  painted  by  Borgofia,  Comontes, 
Luis,  Carbigal,  Tristan,  Riod,  G<^ra» 
etc 

Oloi$t0n, — ^The  lower  cloister  is  en- 
tered by  the  Puerta  del  Mollete,  so 
called  firom  the  old  conrentual  custom 
of  distributing  loayes  (moUdm,  small 
loaves  made  <Mf  the  finest  flour,  whence 
round  and  plump  cheeks  are  called 
'  ffioUfte,' the  mola  of  YiigiL—J^Mid; 
iv.  parts).  It  has  a  small  Gothic  fayade 
of  beginning  of  16th  century.  On  the 
site  of  the  doister  the  Jews  originally 
held  their  market  or  Al-Ean4h ;  this 
lasted  until  ArohUshop  Tenorio  pur- 
chased it  from  them  end  erected  this 
edifice  (1889),  entrusting  it  to  the  archi- 
tect of  the  cathedral,  Rodrigo  Alfonso, 
It  is  Gothic,  all  of  stone^  and  composed 
of  four  galleries^  each  measuring  186  ft 
lon^  l^  87  ft  wide^  and  60  ft  high. 
The  former  altars  and  pictures,  prior  to 
the  16th  century,  were  taken  away 
about  the  middle  of  the  last  century, 
and  substituted  by  frescoes  of  Maella 
and  Bayeu,  most  of  which  the  damp- 
ness of  the  walls  (being  lower  than  the 
streeto)  had  eilaced.  Conrado  and 
Castillo  hare  painted  others,  mostly 
copies  from  Giordano.  In  this  cloister 
it  a  white  marUe  slab^  the  oonsecratioii- 
stone  of  the  cathedral,  founded  in  1691. 

Summer, ChofUr  SmUk  (library).    It 


454 


VMWIt  bjrCkidmal  limemm  U  t^ 
oT  tW  Utib  ecBtvy;  it »  BO  loi0er 
0  Htde  to  attnct  Botiea^ 
Mdflnfaed  ia  1«44.  Ofcr 
ItlttiboUbrarTortW  eitbadsd.  It 
«M  fbndod  bjr  AiebbMbop  TcMrio  ia 
ISaO,  bat  iBtinlj  nbult  Md  CBkfged 
by Cbtdlaol  TfwwM  ItisTctyzkh 
is  ]Cfl8.t  flMm  00  thsa  in  printod  booki. 
Tbo  oirij  eoQoetioB  of  OndiBol  Tnoiio, 
md  7000  TofaniMt  and  MSa  Iroai^ 
from  BoBM  bjr  Ovdinol  LoffCBBDOy  the 
Hebmr^  Orodc,  and  Axob  MSa  oT  gnot 
Taloo— works  of  Axiitotle  (eopieo  nuide 
in  tho  ISUi  and  15tli  oflBtoriM) ;  Franeh 
amd  ItoUoii  mrfy  yoeiij ;  mennl  He- 
bfow  Biblof  with  rommiintiriot,  ▼cry 
ondent;  a  Ifnzonibie  miml  of  the  10th 
centitry ;  prayer-book  of  Crasy  Jane, 
and  miaaal  of  Charlea  Y . ;  aome  oodioes 
with  adndiabla  inliiiatTifft,  ▼ignetteai 
and  initial  mnminated  lettera  of  the  8th 
to  16th  eentory,  by  Alejo  Oimenei^  Yas- 
qnei^  Boitrago,  Arroyo,  Common  tea, 
Juan  do  Salaar,  etc  fV  PermiaBion 
to  rifit,  readt  or  oopy,  ia  neoeanry  from 
the  Archbishop  of  Tdedo^  and  ia  not 
rery  easfly  obUined. 

CfapiUa  d$  San  Bla$,^ln  the  angle 
formed  by  the  N.  and  IS.  cloisters,  tiie 
Qothie  portal  leading  to  it  ia  elegant 
The  chapel  was  founded  by  Caidinal 
Tenorio,  who  ia  bnried  here  (ob.  1899), 
dose  to  hia  chaplain,  Balboa.  The 
paintings  orer  the  three  altars  are  by 
Blaa  del  Prado^  PhiUp  Il'a  piiUar  de 
Cfamara.  The  tenebrario  and  candela- 
brom  for  the  Cirio  Paacnal  are  modem 
works  and  indiiferent  In  the  upper 
cM$Ur$,  erected  by  Ximenea,  ia  kept 
the  momtmeiUo  exhibited  during  the 
ftinctiona  of  the  Holy  Weel^  very  mag- 
niHoent  here,  and  only  surpassed  in 
Spain  by  thooe  of  SeriUe.  It  ia  reiy 
gandy,  all  of  silyer  and  gold,  and  coat 
£16,000.  It  dates  1807,  at  a  time  when 
the  money  had  better  hare  been  em- 
ployed in  raising  troops  to  defend  the 


land.     The 
boildiBglaof  two 
tiiaiBteriar 


cBploysd   in  ttr 


dfridediato 

The  ataiaed  ^aas  i%  waduak, 
hen  to  tiiat  of  SeviD^  aad  iaSesiartD 
Leoo.  JatBM  Dottn  (a  Hcaun^  no 
doabt),  painted  all  those  of  ^  ^ait, 
aad  aioand  it,  in  1418.  Ho 
oeeded  as  aMuafrv  iriSfitn  by 
Lots  and  Gaaiivtn  of  Utrecht  ;(1429|, 
Yaoeo  of  Troyea  (U08),  sad  Alberto 
da  Holaada  0526).  In  164S,  ^ 
Chapter  fatahlished  a  aehool  of  paint- 
ing on  i^aas,  and  the  Yeigauas  sae- 
ceeded  each  oUmt  in  the  professoiahip. 
These  mfftfrt  had  all  titeir  secret 
tooehes  snd  ways  of  preparing  whidi 
they  would  not  eaafly  diacloae,  the 
pMar  d  futffo  amongrt  others  (see 
General  Information :  iMi/M^),  and  in 
1696,  Frandaoo  Oliaa,  then  flMciAns  lie 
loi  tidrimtu^  refoaed  to  initiate  sereral 
popili^  bot'Sanches  ICsrtines  disoorered 
his  secret,  snd  waa  named  in  his  room, 
1718.  In  1721,  he  wrote  a  book  on  his 
art  which  he  dedicated  to  the  Chapter. 
The  different  perioda  of  this  art  can  be 
studied  here,  sncoessiTely,  if  we  b^gin 
with  the  head  of  the  chinch  in  the  cen- 
tral nave  (subject!,  saints,  and  patri- 
archa),  and  end  with  thooe  in  the 
lateral  narea,  placed  in  drcolar  framea 
(subjects,  smaller  figurea,  Isndscq^fs, 
and  scenes).  The  subjeets  are  gener- 
ally from  Holy  Scripture^  liTea  of  the 
sainta,  arma  and  derioea,  etc.  The 
characteristics  are,  glorious^  Tirid,  very 
richly-tinted  colouring  in  the  eariier 
portion ;  the  drawing  easy,  the  atti- 
tndea  stUt  and  the  draperiea  rigid  and 
hard.  The  greena,  reds,  and  yeUows  of 
the  more  modem  portiona  are  alaof^eah 
and  admirable,  matt  transparent  in 
aome,  wanting  in  depth  of  colouring 
aomewhat  orer-omamented  in  thooe  of 
the  16th  century,  but  the  drawing  freer. 


T0LKD0-H3AN  JUAN  DB  LOS  BSTXS. 


455 


tho  exprwsioii  grMtor,  and  mots  life, 
9ue,  morementy  and  Tigoor  In  tlie 
groupliig;  dimpeiiea,  etc 

SimmS. — On  the  whole,  thie  saperb 
itruclure  ttuidi  nnznralled  in  many 
pointa,  and  ia  one  of  the  fineat  and 
laigeat  eathedrala  in  the  woild.  Ita 
aaaoeiatlona  with  the  eariiy  timea  and 
latter  days  of  the  Gothic  empire— ita 
celebrated  coondla,  the  great  monarcha 
who  were  crowned  her^  the  heroee  who 
enriched  ita  altara  wiUi  the  apoila  of 
Tictorj,  and  the  maater-minda  of  gene- 
rationa  of  racea,  in  politica,  and  arta^ 
and  lettera — ^render  it  aa  important  aa 
St  Peter'a,  independently  of  the  beauty 
of  itaatyle  and  more  Chriatian  character. 


San  Joaa  do  loa  Be7M.^Thia  bean- 
tiM  Gothic  pile  belon^i  to  the  Florid, 
or,  we  may  be  allowed  to  term  it,  Moro- 
Gothic,  period,  and  conatitotea  one  of 
the  richest  specimens  in  Spain.  It  was 
erected  in  1476  by  the  Catholic  Kings 
in  thanksgiving  for  the  Tictoiy  of  Toro, 
where  the  defeat  of  the  King  of  Porta- 
gal  dealt  the  death-blow  to  the  party 
and  anppoaed  righta  of  'la  Beltraniga ' 
to  the  crown  of  Castilei  Their  inten- 
tion was  to  found  a  collegiate  church 
and  place  of  sepulchre ;  but  the  erection 
of  a  royal  chapel  at  Granada  subse- 
quent to  the  conquest,  and  aome  diffi- 
cnltiea  that  arose^  made  them  abandon 
the  idea,  and  it  was  conyerted  into  a 
monastery  for  Franciscan  monks,  who 
had  founded  an  establishment  extra 
muros,  in  1280.  The  architect  who 
deeigned  the  church  and  cloisters  was 
Juan  Quaa.  The  Florid  Gothic  con- 
tinued to  pfodominate  in  the  worka 
unto  the  death  of  Guas,  when  the  style 
warered  aome  time  between  Gothic  of 
Decline  and  beginning  of  Beriyal, 
passed  quickly  through  the  Plateresque 
to  fall  into  .the  bastard  Gr«co-Boman, 


and  that  Gongorism  of  ahshiteoturs 
called  Churrigneveaque^  a  style  sprung 
from  a  transition  state  of  sodety,  and 
in  unison  with  the  periwigi,  JaboU, 
rufBes,  etc.  etc.  The  edifice  is  an  ob* 
long  square  somswhat  rounded  in  the 
abris^  and  the  interior  in  the  ahape  of 
a  Latin  eroaa  with  a  droular  prsabyteiy. 
It  is  aOO  ft.  long  by  78  ft.  wide,  and 
80  ft;  hig^  The  ahape  ia  aquare, 
rounded  (^  at  the  cheret 

3xUrior,^-ThB  apse  is  most  elegant 
and  chaste,  with  two  stagea  of  ardiea, 
flanked  by  six  pillais  with  filigree  pin* 
naolea,  decorated  with  atatuea  The 
stone  of  which  it  is  made  ia  Berroquelka 
on  the  outside,  and  white  and  creamy 
inside  ;  open-woiked  galleries^  aeries  of 
diminutive  archleta,  elaborate  nichea, 
with  statuea  of  kings-of-anns  under 
airy  light  canopiea.  From  the  waDa 
hang  a  number  of  chaina  anspended  as 
ez-Totoa  by  captiTea  deUvered  after  the 
capture  of  Granada.  The  principal  en-  * 
trance  was  originally  at  the  extremity 
of  the  nave,  opposite  to  the  high  altar. 
The  present  one  was  designed  and  put 
up  by  A.  de  Ck>TarruUaa,  who  built  it 
in  1568,  for  PhUip  IL,  and,  being 
finiahed  in  the  I7th  century,  beara  the 
tracea  of  the  styles  preralent  at  differ- 
ent perioda,  and  ia  between  the  decline 
of  Gothic  and  Plateresque.  Obsenre, 
besides,  the  aix  statuea  of  aainta  of  the 
Seraphk  order,  the  eflBgy  of  St  John 
the  Baptist,  the  tutelar  patron  of  the 
Cathdie  Kings ;  whence  the  name  of 
this  church,  and  the  royal  arms,  with 
the  badges  and  initiala  F.  and  T.,  and 
two  Boman  warriofs,  at  the  aidea.. 

/lUiKor.— One  nave,  of  four  bays, 
Teiy  spacious^  with  indifferent  chaiwla 
ontheaidea.  Theweatembayhaaadeep 
groined  galleiy  coeral  with  the  main 
portion.  The  former  magnificent  re- 
taUca,  ita  saperb  stained  windowa, 
walnut  atalla,  and  pictorea,  amongst 
them  the  authentic  portraita  of  Uia 


4S0 


TOLBDO — 8AM  JUAM  DX  LOB  BSTU. 


Gttibolk  Klsfi  hf  BlaeoB,  oT  vUdi 
Umm  art  00000  st  Onaad*  Gatbednl 
Md  Hadiid  Pktm  Oidlcrj  (Odr  0ri- 
ff^MtZf  ar»  ol  Madrid,  UtoMO  da  la 
THakUd),  ofym^  ate.,  wen  dculrojied 
b)r  ft  fpnt  ftnia  1B09, «  fid  Iom  to  arl^ 
If  wo  Mkro  Poni»  idio  taw  tbcm 
CViojoporE^oft^'ToLL)  TIm  pra- 
f«t  lilo  nadorn  Altar,  fmitatiiig  maiiilfl^ 
aad  tho  8aa  ICartiii  daub,  now  le^aoo 
tboat  fMML  Tho  itaUa  are  beoehea  of 
pinawoodf  and  moat  of  the  windowa 
vi%  bloekad  op.  Tba  high  ch^iel  ia 
dreular,  aoihle»  and  lifted  up  l^  two 
aUinad  window^  among  tho  fow  Teadgea 
that  remain  bora  after  tlie  firo.  Tlio 
emoaro  or  Iranaept  ia  tlie  gem  of  the 
adiilea.  Obaerra  the  Saraoeale  deco- 
ration on  the  wane,  of  the  moat  elabo- 
rate intrioate  atoooo-work,  the  ooloaaal 
ihielda  and  the  Latin  and  Spaniah  in- 
aoriptioiia  which  fringe  them  and  refer 
to  the  royal  foonden  of  thia  truly  royal 
ohapeL  It  ia  a  perfSsct  apedmen  of  the 
herddio-moreaqna  peonliaritiea  of  atyle 
adopted  in  the  rdgn  of  the  Catholie 
Kingi.  The  raiaed  lantern  ia  roofed 
with  an  octagonal  Tanlt,  with  pen- 
dentiyea.  Obeenre  the  moat  ezqniaite 
tribnnea  or  ambona  for  the  royal  fimily, 
placed  at  aome  height  in  the  anglea  of 
the  tranaept ;  they  look  like  irory  work. 
OloUtmt, — They  form  a  square— 
each  galleiy  ia  80  ft.  lon^  and  with  a 
fine  groined  roo(  compoeed  of  twenty- 
four  boTcdaa,  eroaaed  hj  ariataa.  Theae 
doLetera  and  church,  though  mneh  de- 
teriorated, are  among  the  fineat  and 
richeat  aramplea  of  Florid  Oothio  in 
Europe ;  not  of  the  pureat  period,  but 
▼erging  on  ita  dedine,  and  when  ita 
lore  of  ornamentation  and  effect  knew 
no  bounds,  and  was  already  paving  the 
way  for  that  reaction  wlddi  uahered 
in  the  style  that  was  called  Orsco- 
Roman.  Obaerra  the  foliage  of  the 
capital^  the  birds  and  other  animals, 
the  ilne  statues,  and  the  friese^  with  a 


k«g  inacriptten  in  psaiae  of  the  Ostha 
lie  Kingii.  The  whole  of  the  weatan 
gUleiy  erambled  to  the  ground,  and 
all  the  reat  aoliaed  a  great  deal  from 
^  fire  iddeh  took  place  in  160«,  aa 
also  from  the  hand  of  Oadiata  and  jN^ 
mmekmdmdm:  Cor  it  is  singular  how 
doady  related  rdigioaa  indifferfsiwi  ia 
to  aopentitaon.  The  latter  aooietimea 
becomea  the  rdigion  of  thooe  that  have 
none^  bot  olteoer  atill,  linked  by  the 
law  of  'lea  extrteea  ae  tooehent,'  to 
athfiatJcal  moral  paralyeia.  Thna  may 
be  explained  the  mntilationa  and  haToc 
of  churchea  done  by  Spaniarda  with 
greater  wantonneae  than  eren  Chnn- 
well'e  aoldieta  in  England.  Obaerra 
on  the  north-eaat  angle  a  fine  plater^ 
eeque  ataircaae  leading  to  the  upper 
oldster,  which  was  dwdgned  by  Cow- 
rubiaa.  The  upper  ddater  is  now  need 
for  the  poor  Huaeo  ProTindaL  Orer 
the  prindpal  portal  of  the  couTont  ia  a 
ooloaaal  croas,  and  at  the  aidea  atatnea 
of  the  Yirgin  and  St  John,  aaid  to  be 
efBgiea  of  the  Oatholio  Kings,  and 
certainly  of  that  epoch.  There  is  some 
talk  of  repairing  the  doisters  and 
churdi,  £6000  behig  the  aum  neceaeary 
to  carry  on  the  rtatemracUmn  which 
have  partly  begun.  'Yerteioe  ;'  but 
meanwhile  Tidt  the  cloister-garden, 
once  ftdl  of  ahady  treea  and  laughing 
water  and  chirping  birds,  but  now  deeo- 
late  and  frill  of  creeping  herbe,  the 
ivy  ahd  wild  Tine^  the  gatuAa  (reat- 
luurrow)  and  other  weede,  thooe  only 
frienda  in  the  world  that  lore  to  cling 
to  what  is  ruined  and  neglected,  who 
haTs  healed  many  a  acar  inflicted  by 
the  hand  of  time  and  man  on  thoae 
walls,  and  whoae  ahining  deep  green 
contrasts  with  the  fretted  fringes  dT  the 
niches,  capitala,  and  canopiea,  that, 
like  ydlowed  and  worn  rich  old  laoe, 
hang  about  and  aboTO  the  grareatone 
aainta  that  cast  thdr  mystvioos  sha- 
dows on  the  walla. 


TOLEDO — 8AMTA  MARIA. 


457 


The  niuil  church  close  hy  wis  built 
in  the  I7th  centmy,  and  ii  doted. 

Santa  Maria  la  BloML—TldB  and 
El  Traneito  were  among  the  finest 
synagogoes  erected  hj  the  wealthy  and 
powerM  Jews  of  Toledo  in  this  their 
own  barrio  or  qnartier.  The  bnilding 
belongs  to  the  Moorish  style  of  Tran- 
sition, or  second  period  (beginning  of 
12th  centory).  In  1406  the  neighbonrs 
of  that  bairio  were  roused  by  the  fio- 
lent  preaching  of  San  Vicente  Ferrer, 
and  ezpeUed  the  Jews.  It  was  then 
conTerted  into  a  dhnroh,  nnder  the 
adTocation  of  Santa  Maria  la  Blanca 
(Notre  Dame  des  Keiges  of  the  French), 
till  about  1550,  when  Oardinal  Arch- 
bishop Siliceo  enlarged  it,  and  tomed 
it  into  an  asylum  for  trairiaiat  retired 
from  business ;  but  repentance  amongst 
these  ladies  becoming  every  day  rarer, 
this  0jtmpkuri8vma  fumdatiof\  as  the 
Spanish  writer  calls  it^  had  to  cease  in 
1600.  It  continued  as  a  church  till 
1791,  when  Spamsh  troops  were  quar- 
tered in  it  From  a  barrack  it  became 
amilitary  store,  a  dancing  hall,  etc.  It 
is  now  Mng  repaired.  The  mUMt  is 
plain  and  almost  repulsiTe.  It  is  pre- 
ceded by  a  patio.  Its  ground-plan  is 
that  of  a  basilica,  and  forms  an  oblong 
square  81  ft  long  by  68  It  wide,  and 
diyided  into  fiTs  nares,  of  which  the 
central  is  60  ft  high  and  15  ft  wide^ 
whilst  the  lateral  ones  are  only  12  ft 
broad,  and  raiy  gradually  in  height 
from  50  ft  to  40  ft  These  naves  are 
formed  by  twenty-eight  horseshoe 
arches,  that  spring  from  thirty-two 
octsgon  piilarB,  the  capitals  of  which 
are  varied  in  shape  and  details,  and 
erinoe  the  influence  of  the  Byiantine 
taste.  They  are  full  of  originality,  not 
devoid  of  elegance.  Ovor  the  arches, 
whose  spandrels  are  decorated  with 
graceful  arabesque  rose  patterns^  rises 
the  eusped  wall  arcade  that  separates 
the  navee^  and  which  is  ornamented 


with  the  al-haraca  work.  Stalactite 
arohiets  run  over  those^  and  rest  on 
psired  pillarets,  crowned  by  an  ela- 
borate (Hese,  with  minute  work.  The 
fine  artesonado  roof  is  of  alerce  {fiiMU 
larix)  wood,  and  has  coupled  beams, 
and  was  once  all  gold  and  colours. 
The  three  small  chapels  which  were 
added  by  Oudinal  Siliceo  are  plater- 
esque.  The  retaUo  is  sseribed  to  Ber- 
ruguete,  but  is  more  likely  by  some 
pupil  cf  his ;  it  ii  elabon^y  sculp- 
tured, gilt,  and  'estofado.'  The  pave- 
ment is  worthy  of  notice. 

Tran»Uo.^^So  called  from  the  pas- 
ssge  (Irofu  in)  from  this  life^  or  the 
death,  of  the  Tligin.  This  was  anothar 
synsgogue^  built  at  the  beginning  of 
the  14th  century  by  the  RabU  Meir 
Abdali  for  the  wealthy  treasurer  of 
Don  Pedro,  the  Rothschild  of  that  age, 
Samuel  Levi  It  was  completed  A.D. 
1866.  At  the  expulsion  <^  the  Jews 
in  1492,  the  Catholic  kings  gave  it  to 
the  Order  of  Calatrava,  and  called 
it  de  San  Benito.  The  archives  of 
an  eoomienda  of  this  <»der  and  of 
Alcantara  may  be  seen  here.  This 
synagogue,  built  in  the  days  of  Jewish 
prosperity,  when  the  Grenadine  florid 
style  had  reached  its  acme,  is  built  of 
brick  outside^  but  the  walls  of  its  only 
nave  are  most  superbly  decorated  wi^ 
stuccoed  Alhambnic  work.  This  nave 
is  76  ft  long  by  81  ft  5  in.  wide,  and 
44  ft  high.  Observe  especially  the 
western  wall,  in  the  oentre  of  which 
was  placed  the  pulpit  from  which  the 
Rablds  explained  the  Law,  and  which 
is  now  replaced  by  the  high  altar  and 
retablo.  It  is  covered  all  over  by  the 
richest  ornamentation.  About  as  high 
as  the  middle  of  the  N.  and  &  waUs 
runs  a  wide  fHeae  fHnged  by  stuccoed 
vine-leaves  twined  with  ribbons  and 
star  patterns.  Below,  and  on  the  four 
sides,  spreads  a  series  of  fifty  arcades 
embedded  in  the  waDs  and  resting  on 


458 


TOLEDO — ^MINOR  CHUBCHKS. 


filient  half  pfllan.  The  arehet  are 
oompoaed  of  an  ogive,  diatribated  into 
aeren  droolar  portiona  orlobea.  The 
piUareta  are  of  excellent  Bysantine 
atyle.  The  capitala  raried  in  deaign  ; 
and  the  lattice  woik  or  agimeaee  moat 
elaborate  and  ehaate.  The  ceiling  ii  a 
rich  arteaonado  made  of  cedar.  On 
right  and  left  of  altar  are  long  Hebrew 
inaoriptiona  jdaoed  nnder  ^ielda  of 
Oaatile  and  Leon  (a  tribate  of  gratitude 
and  homage  to  Don  Pedro^  tibe  Jewa' 
protector).  Theae  inacriptiona,  now 
illegible,  were  the  object  of  much 
learned  oontrorerqr  between  Heydeck 
and  the  Spaniah  Academia  de  la 
Hiatoria,  which  will  be  foond  in 
Andrada'a  'Crdnica  de  laa  Ordenea 
Militarea,'  where  alao  ii  fonnd  the 
original  inacription  and  the  trana- 
lation,  made  bj  a  Jew  in  the  16th 
century,  when  it  waa  atill  legible.  It 
alludea  to  the  founder,  and  praiaea 
the  Caatilian  king.  Among  other 
thinga,  the  Jewa  of  the  14th  centuiy 
aay — 'And  we  who  inhabit  thia  land 
haTC  built  thia  houae  with  a  atrong  and 
powerfhl  arm.'  The  picturea  <^  the 
retablo  repreaent  San  Benito  and  St 
Bernard,  and  are  indiiBerent  The 
other  retabloa,  which  fill  the  apot  al- 
lotted  to  the  women'a  tribune^  are  alao 
indifferent.  The  other  inaoriptiona  on 
K.  and  S.  walla  are  portiona  of  DaTid'a 
Fkalma,  the  8Sd  and  99th.  Beaide 
the  anna  of  Don  Pedro  are  the  three 
flenra-de-lya  appertaining  to  hia  Queen 
Blanche.  N.B.  —  AXi  around  theae 
aynagoguea  extended  the  narrow  atreeta 
inhabited  by  the  Toledan  Jewi^  whoae 
houaea  they  judidonaly  endeaToured  to 
make  aa  humble  and  pbdn  aa  poaaible, 
partly  from  ararice^  P*i^7  from  tradi- 
tional Eaatem  habita,  and  not  a  little 
to  avoid  the  enyioua  eye  of  the  Ohiia- 
tian.  TherowerotwoJewiya  at  Toledo^ 
La  Juderia  ICayor  and  La  Juderia 
Manor ;  the  former  waa  defended  by  a 


fortreaa  garriaoned  by  Jewa  alone ;  and 
ao  numerous  indeed,  were  they  here, 
that  on  the  Inquiaition  being  eatab- 
liahed  at  Toledo  in  1478^  17,000  Jewa, 
who  went  by  the  dubioua  name  of '  Con- 
▼eraoa,'  ahrewdly  offered  inatantly  to 
'  reoonoiliarae  con  la  Igleaia.' 

Minor  Ohnrohea.  Samto  Toms, — 
A  moaque  rebuilt  and  embelliihed  at 
the  beginning  of  the  14th  century  by 
Sefior  de  Orgas,  whoae  deaoendanta  wera 
counta  of  the  aame  name.  The  great 
gem  of  thia  edifice  ia  the  celebrated 
picture  of  the  miraouloua  burial  of  thii 
pioua  peraonage,  which  waa  miraouloua- 
ly  attended  hj  St  Auguatin  and  St 
Stephen.  The  miracle  took  place  in 
thia  very  church  in  1812.  Thia  picture 
ia,  according  to  all  connoiaaeurB,  El 
Grecco'a  maaterpiece.  '  It  waa  painted 
in  1684  by  order  of  Don  Qaapar  de 
Quiroga,  CWdinal  and  Arohbi^p  of 
Toledo.  The  execution  reaemblea  Tin* 
toretto.  The  reality  of  the  picturea  in 
the  lower  part  ia  wonderful,  but  the 
upper  portion  ia  aomewhat  inferior.' 
(See 'Handbook  of  Painting;'  the  Span- 
iah, etc.,  Schoola,  lat  ed.,  yoL  ii 
p.  82;  and  Palomino,  yoL  iii  pp. 
426-29.)  The  tone  of  it  ia  Venetian. 
The  figurea  an  not  extraYagantly 
lengthy,  and  of  that  aahen  grey,  whi(^ 
ia  the  oharaoteriatic  of  thia  maater; 
they  aro  all  portraita,  the  prieat  holding 
a  book,  in  the  foreground,  being  that 
of  Andrte  NuAea,  the  pariah  prieat,  who 
gaYe him  24,900r8.  to  paint  it  'The 
YiYid  colouring  of  El  Greoco  auita  ad- 
mirably the  dead  body,  and  the  armour 
in  which  it  ia  clad  ia  beautifully  paint- 
ed. '  The  heada  of  innumerable  by- 
atandera  an  finely  drawn,  but  want 
warmth,  and  the  four  burning  torchea 
an  aa  UYid  aa  their  fium'  (Hoakina' 
'Spain  aa  it  la,'  yoL  ii  p.  128.) 

The  church  itael(  once  a  moaque,  of 
which  the  ateeple  '  *      ^aa  been 

modemiiedand  *  tba 


TOLXDO— MIMOR  CHUROHE& 


459 


Sto.  Tomas  orer  the  retablo  ii  a  dmhj 
pictiire  of  Don  Yioente  Lopes,  a  oon- 
temponry  R.A* 

Santa  CVuc^This  former  hospital, 
now  the  Infantry  OoUega^  was  founded 
in  1494  by  El  Oran  Oardenal  Mendoas 
who  confided  the  '  slructme  to  En- 
riqne  de  Egas,  and  ordered  him  to  build 
it  in  the  shape  of  a  cross  of  Jerosalem 
(or  Malta),  of  which  he  was  styled 
Bishop,  in  which  he  had  much  fiiith, 
bnilding  the  Colegio  Mayor  of  Yallado- 
lid  in  the  same  shape.  Hediedinl496, 
end  the  works  were  begun  by  <»der  of 
his  trastee,  the  Catholic  Qoeen,  1504. 
It  was  completed  in  1514,  and  is  a  yery 
large  building  the  area  measnring  not 
less  than  500  ft  long,  by  800  It  wide. 
It  is  one  of  the  BeWyal  buildings  first 
erected  in  Spain,  and  constitntes,  there* 
fore,  an  important  monument  for  the 
student  of  Spanish  architecture,  who 
will  notice  that  its  better  defined  char- 
acter is  essentially  different  from  the 
Italian  Reriral  of  the  same  period. 
The  style  is  seen  dawning  in  the  Cole- 
gio Mayor  de  Santa  Cms  of  YalladoUd, 
1480-02,  and  it  is  seen  still  in  the 
Colegio  Mayor  of  Salamanca,  1581.  It 
is  considered  by  connoisseurs  as  one  of 
the  gems  of  the  world. 

The  S.  and  principal  portal  is  of 
white  Rosa  stone,  with  decorations  snd 
plateresque  figures.  The  two  patios 
are  ezqidsite  and  admirably  decorated. 
The  staircase  is  a  gem  of  the  Transi- 
tion style,  between  florid  Gothic  and 
plateresque.  Its  balustrades,  moro-pla- 
teresque  artesonado  too(  etc,  would 
baffle  pen  and  pendL  Qbeerre  every- 
thing,  the  upper  and  lower  galleries, 
the  door  between  the  first  and  second 
patios,  the  columns,  many  of  which 
were  dug  up  in  the  ruins  of  the  Gothic 
church  of  Santa  Leocadia,  and  therefore 
curious.  The  staircase  of  the  chapel  is 
the  gem  of  this  gem,  and  consists  of 
four  grand  elliptiad  arches,  with  lofty 


buttresses,  elaborately  ornamented,  and 
with  escutcheons  of  the  Mendosas  and 
their  mot^ .' Atc  Maria,  gratia  plena.' 
The  retablo  mayor  is  plateresque,  and 
is  sscribed  to  Frandsoo  of  Antwerp^  the 
subject  being  alluslTe  to  the  foundation 
of  this  edifice.  Orer  the  lateral  altars 
are  some  good  copies  of  Guide  and  Lan- 
tnaoo ;  ^  rest  are  ascribed  to  Giorda- 
no, and  are  indiibrent,  thou^  the 
cathedral  tapestry  was  nuide  after  them. 

7il#  HJk^  ckmrtkea  are  OMMlly  uainteresttiif 
for  dM  ofdtfMiy  tountt  \  yt%  only  awooa  CnMi 
with  tbair  chftnicteffittica. 

Sm$i  R^tmm.'^K  tonuu  motqot ;  a  Moorish 
Steele,  much  mod«niiied,  vtry  rti— rirahte. 
Its  Tuilts  deaerre  hupectioe. 

Lm  SiU$.  SU.  DtmtMf.'-^lvBac  duqid; 
boautiful  aftMOBMio  ccinny. 

SmH  CUmtmU.'^yiotlL  ekgaBt  porUl ;  pla* 
taraqiM  and  Banrufuete-lika. 

Oritto  de  la  Xnc—This  is  a  most 
interesting  remnant  of  Moorish  archi- 
tecture. It  is  said  by  some  authors  to 
haTs  been  erected  by  the  Moors  on  the 
site  of  a  small  dhurdi  built  by  the  Goth 
Athansgild,  and  of  which  some  columns 
were  pieserred  snd  placed  in  the  build- 
ing. The  great  simUarity  of  the  general 
dflrign,  as  well  ss  details,  with  the 
mosque  of  Cordora,  seems  to  oonfirm 
the  assertion  that  it  belongs  to  the  first 
period  of  Moorish  architecture,  and  was 
built  most  probably  about  the  middle 
of  the  11th  century.  It  was  standing 
a  well-known  moeque^  at  the  time  of 
the  entrance  of  Alfonso  YI.  into  Toledo, 
on  Sunday,  May  86,  1085.  The  king 
stopped  in  his  progress,  entered,  snd 
had  the  first  mass  said  here  by  the  Ab- 
bot D.  Bernard,  the  celebrated  French 
Archbishop  of  Toledo^  to  whose  care  it 
was  entrusted,  and  who  had  it  repslred, 
enlarged,  and  probably  somewhat  modi- 
fied as  to  stylsi  It  derives  its  name 
from  a  legend,  according  to  which,  as 
the  Cid's  horse  one  day  passed  by  this 
church,  the  steed  stopped  and  rereren- 
tially  <nelt^  upon  which  the  wall  oppo- 


460 


TOLEDO— HOSPITAL  DB  TAVERA. 


site  was  opened,  end  Christ'e  Image 
was  foimd  within  a  niche^  lighUd  up  by 
the  identical  lamps  that  had  been 
placed  there  bj  the  Goths  seTeral  oentn- 
ries  before.  It  snbeequentljr  became 
the  property  of  two  military  orders,  San 
Juan  and  Bel  Yiso,  and  additions  took 
place  at  different  periods.  The  main 
portion  and  most  of  the  features  of  the 
former  mosque  still  subsist  It  is  a 
small,  square  edifice,  being  only  22  ft. 
in  erery  sense.  The  space  is  divided 
into  six  narrow  naves,  three  of  which 
cross  each  other  in  an  opposite  direc* 
tion,  forming  thus  nine  vaults,  formed 
by  intersecting  cusped  ribs,  each  of  a 
different  design.  Four  heavy  horseshoe 
arches  spring  from  each  capital,  which 
latter,  as  well  as  the  low  circular 
columns^  belonged  to  the  original  Ooihic 
building.  They  are  without  basement, 
reminding  us  of  those  in  the  mosque  at 
Cordova.  Over  the  arches  and  a  string 
oourse,  the  walls  sre  generally  pierced 
with  five-lobed  open  arcades  (another 
feature  of  the  Manritano<^rdovan  pe- 
riod) ;  but  in  the  central  compartment 
the  agimei  double-arched  windows  are 
seen  elegantly  cusped  and  supported 
by  shaftih-the  third  and  fourth  stages 
in  this  compartment  having  widls 
pierced  with  skylights  of  Moorish  de- 
sign. The  apse  is  a  later  addition  ;  the 
retablo^  altar,  and  images  deserve  no 
mention ;  the  outride  is  built  of  brick 
and  stone,  decorated  with  Moorish  ar- 
cades. 

Cfriito  de  2a  TigNi.— Formerly  the  Ba- 
silica of  Sta.  Leocadia.  The  original 
buUding  was  erected  in  the  4th  century, 
A.o,  on  the  site  of  Sta.  Leocadia's  mar- 
tyrdom. The  Goth  Sisebute  rebuilt  it 
in  the  7th  century,  converting  it  into 
a  magnificent  church,  and  four  among 
the  most  important  Councils  of  Toledo 
were  held  here.  In  6M  Sta.  Leocadia 
appeared  here  before  San  Ildefonso  and 
Beooeswinth,  on  the  day  of  her  festival. 


when,  after  she  had  complimented  the 
theologian  on  his  brilliant  defence  of 
the  Virgin's  purity,  he  with  the  king's 
dagger  cut  off  part  of  her  veil  as  a  token 
otherrmtmpenonms,    Jtwasapreto- 
riensis  church,  that  is,  royal-privileged, 
and  the  finest  then  in  the  Peninsula 
(most  of  the  columns  were  subsequentiy 
removed  to  Oudinal  Mendoza's  Hospi- 
tal de  la  Cms,  and  othen  placed  behind 
the  choir  of  the  cathedral).    Destroyed 
by  the  Moon,  it  was  partly  rebuilt  in 
the  15th  century,  and  repaired   and 
altered  in  the  18th,  to  be  destroyed 
once  more  during  the  French  invasion. 
All  that  now  remains  is  the  apse  of 
Chapel  del  Oristo  de  la  Vega.    The 
present  imsge  was  recenUy  put  up 
(1816),  to  repJace  the  former  one  which 
was  destroyed,  and  was  held  to  be  a 
miraculous  image,  which,  according  to 
a  legend  which  we  suspect  must  have 
been  written  by  some  young  lady,  held 
down  its  arms  to  confirm  the  promise  of 
marriage  made  by  a  volant  youth,  and 
at  the  request  of  the  offended  seftorita. 
Other  legends,  of  a  less  poetical  kind, 
eay  that  the  arm  fell  down  with  a  ges- 
ture of  assertion  as  a  Christian  was 
claiming  befne  its  image  a  sum  which 
a   Jew  had  received  from  him ;  but 
Jews  were  always  ImuUrt,  and  the  con- 
trary may  be  supposed. 

Hospital  do  Tarara. — Outside  the 
town,  whence  better  known  as  Hospital 
de  Aiuera.  A  magnificent  charitable 
institution,  founded  by  the  Cardinal 
Archbishop  Tavera,  1640,  for  the  rick 
and  invalids,  and  now,  through  mar- 
riages, relationship,  etc,  has  become 
the  pairtmato  d$  mmgn  of  the  house  of 
Medina  CelL  It  was  designed  and 
carried  out  by  a  familiar  of  the  Cardi- 
nal Bartolomi  Bustamante,  who  became 
a  Jesuit  and  a  well-known  architect  U 
Ids  time.  He  was  succeeded  by  Lara 
and  the  two  Yergaras,  who  followed  his 
plans.    It  was  begun  in  1641,  and  oom* 


TOLEDO— ALOAZAR. 


461 


pleted  In  1684.     The   ana   fonni  a 
■qiiAre,  800. feet  on  each  side,  with  four 
patios,  and  the  ohmoh  in  tiie  oentre. 
There  are  portiona  that  have  remained 
unfinished,  such  as  the  ia^ade^  one  of 
the  two  towers,  etc     The  patioa  are 
Teiy  grand  and  effeotiTe,  with  Doric 
and  lonio  oolnmns.     The  portals  be- 
long  to  the  second  period  of  Spanish 
RoTiTaL    Obeerre  the  one  sitoi^ted  at 
the  extremity  of  the  portico  orer  the 
Doric  piUars  and  cornice,  the  statues  of 
warriors  holding  the  foander*s  escut- 
cheon.     It  is  ascribed  to  Berrugnete 
(Alfonso).     It  leads  to  the  church. 
This  latter  is  spadous,  in  the  shape  of 
a  Latin  cross,  and  consisting  of  a  aingle 
nare  some  140  ft  long  by  80  ft  wide 
in  the  transept,  and  100  fL  high.    The 
style  is  elasBical,  and  the  whole  is  plain, 
of  Tast  proportions  and  not  wanting  in 
elegance.      The  three  altars   are  by 
Domingo   Theotocopuli   (El   Grecco), 
and  indifferent    The  gem  here  is  the 
founder's  mausoleum;  it  stands  isolated 
in  the  centre  of  the  transept  and  Is  the 
last  work  which  Berrugnete  erer  exe- 
cuted.   He  sculptured  it  in  1559,  when 
nearly  eighty  years  old,  assisted  by  his 
son.    He  died  whilst  working  on  it  in 
1561,  and  the  allegorical  statues  of  the 
Four  Yirtnes  are  ascribed  to  his  son. 
Kothing  can  exceed  the  admirable  wax- 
like execution  of  the  elaborate  details ; 
the  composition  is  equally  good,  and 
there  is  great  elegance  and  taste  with- 
out exuberance  of  decoration.    Obserre 
the  eagles  with  spread  wingi  on  the 
comers  of  the  urn ;  the  reUeros  and 
medallions  which   represent  different 
subjects,  the  groups  of  children  with 
garlands  of  flowers,  death's-heads,  etc. 
The  recumbent  eflBgy  of  the  cardinal  ii 
equally  well  exeouted,andthe  expression 
that  of  repose,  piety,  and  beneTolencei 
The  details  of  mitre,  restments,  etc, 
are  very  minute 
CapUla  de  Sati  /cstf.^-Choir  classical 


and  indifferent  Three  good  paintings 
by  El  Qrecco  of  San  Joe4  and  the  In- 
fknt  Deity  in  central  retablo,  and  in 
the  lateral  ones  Virgin  and  ddid^  and 
San  Martin  sharing  his  cloak  with  a 
beggar. 

Public  .Bdlfloes  ^Aloasar.  — The 
site  of  the  palace  of  the  (Gothic  kings  is 
not  known  ;  it  stood  probably  dose  to 
Puente  San  liartin.    There  was  here  a 
Boman  citadel  which  the  (3oths  pre> 
serred  as  such.     Alfonso  YL,  after  the 
conquest  of  the  town,  built  a  palace 
hers ;  more  of  a  fortress,  no  doubt  as 
his  new  sutjeots  in  the  city  were  all 
Moors  who  had  to  be  kept  in  check. 
The  ad  was  entrusted  with  the  Alcaidia 
of  it  and  lired  close  by  on  the  site  now 
called  FlasueU  del  Hospital  de  Santi- 
ago, and  towards  the   comer  of  the 
house  which  was  formerly  the  Oasa  de 
Caridad.  It  was  subsequently  strength-  ^ 
ened,  enlarged,  and  embellished,  espe-' 
dally  under  Alfonso  Z.,  Juan  IL,  and 
the  (Catholic  KingSi  of  whose  time  there 
are  still  some  rooms,  and  the  X.  andW. 
£ifadea.    GhariesY.  andhissonPhilip 
rebuilt  most  of  the  edifice  on  a  new 
plan,  but  it  was  seriously  iigured  and 
almost  destroyed  by  a  fire  in  1710, 
&nned— say,  as  usual,  Spanish  modems 
— ^by  the  IbigUdi  troops,  and  prompted 
from  sheer  enyy.    But  first  <tf  aU,  the 
troops  quartered  hers  in  1710,  during 
the  war  of  Succession,  were  composed 
chiefly  of  Portngueie^  Dutch,  and  (kr- 
mans,  under  (3eneral  Starembeig ;  and 
it  is  weU  known  that  it  was  the  Portu- 
guese Commander  Atalaya  who  set  fire 
to  the  building.    Cardinal  Loreniana, 
the  last  of  the  kingly  Archbishops  of 
Toledo^  restored  it  1772-75,  and  con- 
Terted  it  into  a  charitable  institution; 
his  architect  Y.  Bodriguei^  altering 
little  or  nothing  of  the  former  plan.  In 
1810,  the  French  ifiti  set  fire  to  it  as  a 
&rewell/m  tTarH/ki,  and  what  we  now 


462 


TOLEDO. 


see  are  bat  rains— the  exterior  and  in* 
terior  walli,  the  arcadea  of  the  patio, 
the  staircase,  and  a  few  empty  rooms. 
Sach  rains  look  like  tombs  wherein  a 
whole  nation  lies  buried,  and  their  ne- 
glect and  loneliness  are  sad  and  serere 
epitaphs.  little,  therefore^  remains  of 
the  works  of  the  greatest  arehitects  of 
Spain,  the  OoTarrabias,  Yegas,  Yillal- 
pandos,  Larras,  Herrera,  the  Egas, 
Gils,  etc.  Obserre^  nererthcless^  the 
K.  plateresqne  facade  of  1551,  most  ex- 
quisitely decorated,  and  the  work  of 
Enrique  ^gas  after  designs  of  Covarra- 
bias  ;  the  8.  facade,  designed  by  Juan 
de  Herrera,  1571-84,  who  also  designed 
the  staircase  and  diapel,  all  of  which 
Martin  Banena  executed.  It  is  Doric, 
with  four  stages  decorated  with  pilas- 
ters. It  is  considered  by  most  con- 
noisseurs as  inferior  to  the  fomer  for 
elegance  and  effect  The  W.  fa9ade  is 
of  the  15th  century,  the  time  and  reign 
of  the  Catholic  Kings,  but  the  door  and 
ornamentation  were  added  by  Ooyarra- 
bias,  and  are  plateresque.  The  £. 
facade  is  of  the  18th  century,  end  its 
castellated  walls  with  cubo-tuirets,  its 
buttresses,  etc,  bespeak  sufficiently  the 
times  of  Alfonso  El  Sabia  The  inte- 
rior might  be  called  Derastation  Hall, 
and  weeds  and  bats  lord  oyer  it  The 
patio  was  truly  worthy  of  this  palace ; 
it  is  an  oblong  surrounded  by  upper 
and  lower  galleries,  each  of  which  con- 
sists of  thirty-two  arches  resting  on 
Corinthian  columns,  all  of  stone,  and 
with  the  escutcheons  on  stone  also  of 
the  many  kingdoms  and  prorinces  oyer 
which  Charles  Y.'s  eagle  could  soar 
and  call  his  own.  This  patio  is  the 
masterpiece  of  Yillalpando,  who  was 
aided  by  Ckmxales  de  Lara  and  Qaspar 
de  Yega.  Stedreaae, — ^Facing  the  en- 
trance is  the  admirable  staircase^  one  of 
the  finest  in  Spain,  designed  by  Coyar- 
rabias  andcanied  out  by  Yillalpando 
and  Yega,  and  finally,  in  1581,  com- 


pleted by  Juan  de  Herrera.  It  is  of  a 
regal  style,  and  worthy,  as  it  wa%  of 
PldUp  II. 's  attention,  who  used  to  send 
his  instractions  about  it  firom  London, 
where  he  was  when  Heirera  was  design- 
ing it  (1555).  The  anecdote^  therefore, 
which  relates  that  on  his  first  M'^^'MJipg 
it,  Charles  Y.  exclaimed  that  when  he 
was  on  that  staircase  he  really  felt  he 
was  an  emperor  and  king,  is  a  ikble, 
for  it  was  finished  when  he  was  at 
Brussels,  and  the  year  before  his  abdi- 
cation. The  steps  are  each  of  one  block 
of  stone^  and  measure  50  ft  in  length, 
and  its  eaja  (the  nare  in  which  it  is)  is 
100  ft.  long  by  50  ft.  wide.  The  chapel 
is  classical,  and  was  repaired  1775,  but 
the  cupola  is  wanting  and  the  floor  also; 
it  is  tiierefore  an  edifice  'sin  pi^  nl 
cabeza.'  A  few  empty  and  indifferent 
rooms  are  shown,  and  the  stables,  built 
for  hundreds  of  horses. 

OadUo/San  CerwMite.~Three  tur- 
rets and  a  few  ruined  walls  are  all  that 
remain  of  that  edifice^  formeriy  called 
de  San  Senrando^  an  old  castle  built 
and  rebuilt  oftentimes,  and  which  be- 
longed to  the  Templars  till  the  suppres- 
sion of  their  order  tn  1802.  The  Moors 
strengthened  it,  end  hays  left  two 
horse-shoe  arches  as  Testiges  of  their 
passage.  In  Calderon's  days  fashion- 
able duels  used  to  take  place  here 
(see  'Cada  uno  para  si'),  and  before 
his  time  Lope  de  Yega,  in  his  comedy 
of '  Amar  sin  saber  quien,'  mentions  it 
likewise. 

Town-HalL— These  Cases  Consis- 
toriales  date  mostly  17th  century,  as 
the  foraier  edifice  of  15th  oentuiy  has 
been  often  remodelled.  It  ia  not  want- 
ing in  elegance  and  effect,  and  is  sfter 
designs  by  Jorge  Theotocc^mli,  Greece's 
son.  ,  It  is  of  the  classical  order,  and 
was  completed  in  1618.  The  interior 
has  little  toiniite  the  tourist'sattention ; 
the  inscription  orer  the  K.  facade  is 
very  fine  and  allusiye  to  the  Comgl- 


TOLEDO. 


463 


dora ;  it  wis  oompotadby  the  odelmted 
poet  Jorge  HtDiique  for  his  relatiTe  D. 
Gomes  Mannqne^  who  wis  thefint  Cor* 
r^dor  Toledo  erer  had  :— 

Nobles,  diacretM  ▼aronM 
Que  gobeniais  k  Toledo, 
En  sauestoe  eecsloiies 
Pcicchid  Ias  aficiooeSf 
Codida,  temor  y  miedo. 
Pot  km  coimtMiBce  pcovechofc 
Dejad  k»  partScukres ; 
PuesTosfiio  Diot  piUres 
De  tan  reqmMinoe  techoe, 
E«tad  finiiea  y  derechos. 


There  are  two  good  likenesses  of 
Charles  II.  and  his  qneen  Mariana  of 
Nenberj^  by  Carrefto,  and  a  Tery  curious 
plan  of  Toledo  sad  its  monies  drawn 
up  by  El  Greooo.  In  the  summer  Sala 
de  Sesiones  is  some  good  asulcjo-work 
and  paintings  of  battles  between  Span- 
iards  and  Flemings. 

Areki^pueopalJPaJtiee, — dose  to  the 
cathedral,  with  which  it  oommunicates 
through  a  coTered  gallery*  It  is  modem, 
large,  end  indifferent,  the  former  palace 
of  the  18th  century  having  been  often 
and  completely  remodelled.  There  are 
some  good  artesonado  ceilings  in  the 
oldest  portion  of  it,  especially  in  the 
Salon  de  los  Condlios,  so  called  because 
many  of  these  were  held  here  after  the 
16th  century.     * 

JtfkMO  /VovincisZL— This  building 
occupies  portions  of  the  Cloisters  of 
San  Juan  de  los  Reyes ;  the  704  pic- 
tures of  which  it  condsts  were  removed 
here  from  sereral  conrents,  when  these 
were  suppressed,  though  the  best  were 
taken  to  the  Madrid  Picture-GaUery. 
Of  the  number  mentioned  there  are  not 
abore  fifty-eight  which  are  either 
authenticated  or  ascribed  to  different 
painters ;  all  the  rest,  and  most  of  the 
best^  are  nothing  but  daubs.  There  are 
a  few  that  deserve  attention ;  two  Ri- 
bens,  signed,  a  Morales,  and  others  by 
Orrente,  Ribalta,  Maella,  etc;  but  the 
school  of  Toledo  is  not  to  be  studied 


here,  but  in  the  cathedral,  churches,  and 
noblemen's  houses,  and  at  Madrid.  In 
this  large  room  was  the  cell  inhabited 
by  CardLial  Cisnerot. 

BibUoteoft  Fublioa.— Opened  daily 
to  the  publici  from  9  a,u.  to  2  p.m.  It 
is  also  called  arxoUspal,  and  is  situated 
in  the  lower  or  ground  floor  of  the 
Archbishop's  palMS.  It  was  estab- 
lished under  Charles  III.  after  the  ex- 
pulsion of  the  Jesuits,  and  classified 
and  augmented  by  Cardinal  Lorenzsna. 
It  contains  some  80,000  volumes,  never 
carefully  investigated,  and  of  value ;  es- 
pecially in  theological  and  ecdesisstical 
history,  as  the  Jesuits' libraries  scattered 
about  diurches  and  colleges  at  Toledo 
formed  the  nucleus;  there  are  many 
MSS.  of  early  Spanish  poetry ;  valuaUe 
editions  and  MSa  of  Spanish  His- 
tory, and  upon  America.  There  ii  a 
Museo  de  Antigiiedades,  interesting  to 
arch«ologists^  containing  slabs  with 
inscriptions  in.  Hebrew,  Arab,  Gothic, 
etc.,  a  good  collection  of  coins,  a  good 
portrait  of  the  historian  Mariana,  and 
a  fine  marble  bust  of  Juanelo  Tuniano^ 
the  Toledan  hydraulist,  but  a  native  of 
Italy,  by  Berruguete,  and  several  plans 
of  edifices,  etc.  There  is  also  a  good 
collection  of  S^anidi  marbles,  plants, 
woods,  birds,  and  other  otjeots  of 
natural  history. 

Jl<m^faetur^  qfAnm, — It  is  twenty 
minutes'  walk  from  the  town,  and  really 
not  worth  seeing,  unless  for  the  sake 
of  the  -world-wide  celeMty  of  Toledo 
blades,  which  was  great  even  under  the 
Romans: — 

laa  toUtano  pHBdagant  ilia  culcra^ 

Abdur-rhaman  IL,  in  the  9th  cen- 
tury, raised  its  reputation  still  higher. 
The  swords,  poniards,  and  other  armti 
hknuhOf  were  manufactured  first  by 
independent  armourers,  who  subse- 
quently formed  a  powerfrd  guild,  '  Los 
armeros  de  Toledo,'    The  best  swords 


464 


TOLEDO. 


date  from  the  16Ui  oentniy  (see  for  de- 
tails, history,  etc.,  Gencml  Informa- 
tion :u<rm«).  The  present  mannfactoro 
is  poor  even  as  a  mnsenm,  and  it  is  not 
here  bat  at  the  Madrid  aimooiy  that 
is  to  be  studied  the  admirable  work- 
manship of  the  Ortn&os,  Oonientes, 
Hartines,  Rois,  Lona,  PortaUi^  Fer- 
nandei,  etc.  Here  are  produced, 
yearly,  some  8500  swords,  though 
in  some  years^  as  in  1867, 1082  swords 
have  been  the  sole  produce.  The  most 
erer  obtained  has  been  12,000.  The 
steel  and  iron  come  mostly  trom  Eng- 
land and  France,  and  the  workman- 
ship is  now  but  indifferent  TheTagus 
has  nothing  to  do  with  the  tempering,  as 
the  waters  used  are  brought  from  a 
well  The  secret  lies,  or  lay  rather, 
with  the  armourer  and  his  process. 
The  'espadas  de  rosea,'  which  bend  and 
curl  up  like  a  Toledan  mazapan  in  a 
box,  are  a  curiosity,  and  are  worth 
from  1  to  4000rs. ;  small  daggers  may 
be  purchased,  as  a  sourenir^  for  three  or 
four  dollars. 

Palaeio  d$  OaHema,  —  None  but 
antiquaries  and  lorers  of  the  past 
ought  to  Tint  these  ruins,  more  re- 
markable for  associations  than  for  any 
intrinsic  merit ;  for  of  the  proud  palace 
of  the  Moorish  Infanta  we  see  now  but 
a  few  ruins  conrerted  into  a  stable,  a 
kitchen,  and  storehouse.  Through  tiie 
smoke  some  horseshoe  srches,  and 
Arabic  inscriptions,  may  yet  be  guessed. 
The  tradition  about  it  is  poetical^ 
'n^re  au  possible,'  as  the  French 
would  say.  Galiana,  the  imaginary 
daughter  of  the  imaginary  Oakft«^ 
king  of  Toledo  —  her  courtship  by 
Chifflemagne  (who  nerer  was  in  Tole- 
do), and  his  duel  with  the  giant  riral 
Bradamante — the  blind  lore  of  the 
father  for  his  daughter,  and  the  fairy 
palace  he  built  for  her,  and  of  which 
these  are  ruins— such  are  the  principal 
features  of  this  legend,  which  may  be 


seen  and  studied  in  Duran's  '  Collection 
of  Romances,'  Oayangos'  'Moham. 
Dyn.'  ToL  ii  p.  888.  In  the  'Ber- 
nardo '  of  Balbranas,  Moratin,  and  the 
contemporary  Tomai^  Rod.  Rubi  (La 
Infimta  Galiana),  hare  made  it  the 
subject  of  ballads,  dramas,  etc 

Galkiw  de  Toledo 
Mity  henaoie  A  mumiolla 
La  okmh  mis  cdcbntdfH 
Detodala 


On  the  blackened  waUs  are  traces  of 
Moorish  windows  and  designs  not  un- 
worthy of  the  Alhambra. 

Oatea,  Bridffos,  tlqiiarea.  Streets, 
Prout-bits.— Toledo  is  a  shrine  of  me- 
di»Tal  art,  and  its  admirers  cannot  but 
perform  ihM  pflgrimage  with  all  fer> 
▼our,  and  risit  tiie  dty  in  aU  its  de* 
tails. 

The  OaU$  are  not  the  least  pic- 
turesque characteristic.  Pusrta  M 
Sol: — The  date  of  erection  is  not 
known,  but  it  was  doubtlessly  built  or 
rebuilt  by  the  Arabs.  The  pointed 
horseshoe  arch  forming  the  entrance 
is  flanked  by  two  high  turrets ;  one 
square  with  windows  and  built  up 
against  the  wall;  the  other  circular 
and  in  an  an^e.  The  entrance  arch 
is  more  pointed  than  the  second  inner 
one,  which  is  circular,  and,  like  the 
third,  seems  to  be  fast  assuming  m 
Ck>thic  character.  Orer  the  first  arch 
runs  a  series  of  intersecting  brick  ar- 
cades, circular  and  pointed,  but  Moorish 
work  of  the  transition  period,  or  re- 
stored by  Oastilians  not  long  sfter 
the  conquest  of  Toledo.  Orer  the  se- 
cond arch  is  a  Virgin  with  Tarioui 
figurea.  Within  is  a  nidely-ezeeuted 
baseo-relieTo^  lepieseuting  the  punish- 
ment of  an  Algnaiil  mayor,  who  had 
outraged  two  ladies ;  upon  which  Fer- 
ninand  III.  had  his  head  cut  off,  which 
is  seen  here  borne  on  a  dish.  This 
gate^  with  its  warm  orange  tintSi  that 


TOLBDO— OATE»  BRIDQBS,  SltX 


465 


oontrait  so  admiraUj  with  the  lapis- 
kzali  axure  of  the  doudlees  akj,  its 
batUement  fringing  the  top,  and  open- 
ing Tiatas  of  meet  novel  aspect^  is  a 
treasure  for  an  artist  Pueiiade  Fita- 
gra, — ^The  side  of  the  dtj  towards  the 
Vega  is  the  onlj  one  not  well  defended' 
hj  natore,  a  defect  which  the  me- 
di»?Bl  militiry  art  snpplied ;  and  aboat 
1102  Alfonso  VI.  enclosed  the  space 
left  open  between  the  two  bridges 
by  a  walL  Three  gates  then  opened 
on  the  y^ga ;  to  the  N.  Vissgra ;  to 
the  E.  AlmofalK  and  to  the  W.  Bib- 
al-Makarah,  subeeqaentlj  Oambron. 
There  are  two  drcumrallations.  We 
hare  mentioned  the  one  made  by 
Alfonso,  which,  beginning  at  the 
Puente  de  Alcantars,  went  by  Las 
CoTachnelas  to  Pnerta  Lodada,  and 
joined  the  older  line  dose  to  the  La- 
natic  AaylnuL  The  former,  or  older, 
was  built  by  Wamba,  and  began  also 
at  the  Alcantara  bridge^  then  followed 
by  the  gate  de  Ice  Dooe  Cantos  to  the 
back  of  the  church  '  Del  Carmen  Cal- 
sado,'  to  gates  of  Sta.  Cnii  and  Cam- 
bron,  and  finally  to  the  bridge  of  San 
Martin.  San  Cerrantes,  the  Alcasar, 
and  the  bridges  and  gates,  constituted 
the  prindpal  defendre  works.  Pu£rla 
d$  Vitagruk  (erroneoudy  derired  from 
Via  Sacra).— From  Bib-ShiJcrah,  Bed 
Gate,  or  Bib-SharAh,  Gate  of  the  Fields 
(ElCkmpo)\  itisnowcalledLaPuerta 
Lodada.  It  is  purdy  Moorish,  and  of 
9th  century,  and  is  just  as  it  was  in 
887,  when  Hizem*s  gory  head  dangled 
from  its  buttresses.  Its  prindpd  horse- 
shoe arch  springi  from  heayy  pUlars, 
leading  to  two  narrower  ones.  The 
second  is  of  a  rery  narrow  passage  and 
winding,  an  habitual  military  precau- 
tion with  the  Moors.  The  New  CkUe 
of  Vissgra  was  built  in  1676  by  Philip 
II.  It  rises  between  two  cubo  towers, 
forming  a  large  srch,  orer  whidi  are 
the  arms  and  esgle  of  Charles  Y.,  with 

2 


St  Michad  and  other  statues  by  Ber- 
rognete. '  Inside  ii  a  statue  d  San 
Engenio,  Bidiop  of  Tdedo. 

Tom  ds  la  Abade$.^litn  (m  dice) 
Archbishop  Bernard  and  his  plucky 
abbots  fooght  and  drore  away  the  be- 
sieging Mocks,  for  in  those  ages  the 
Church  was  Iruly  militant^  snd  gene- 
rslly  triumphant^  whUe  St  Michad 
fooght  like  a  hero  at  the  Puerta  de 
Almagrsri,  performing  as  great  a  bene- 
fit as  he  did  once  before  to  another 
friendly  army,  according  to  Scripture. 

Fuerta  del  Omiftrofk— The  m  in  this 
name  is  to  be  carefully  pronounced,  to 
ardd  other  etymdogies.  A  fine  Moor- 
ish horse-shoe  substituted  in  1676  for  a 
former  one  of  the  time  of  the  Goths, 
placed  somewhat  lower  and  called  Al- 
MikAra.  Its  four  tonets  are  also  of 
the  16th  oentuiy,  and  the  image  of 
Sta.  Leocadia^  bcMtifully  executed  by 
Bermguete,  was  remored  to  the  Town- 
Hall  during  the  French  inradon,  but 
brought  back  again.  The  indifierent 
Puaria  Nuera  was  built  in  the  19th 
century  as  a  substitute  to  the  former 
gateof  AlmofidliL 

Bridge  of  AloaatariL— The  bridges 
of  Alcantsraand  San  Martin  were  boilt 
to  replace  two  earlier  ones,  in  the  18th 
and  14th  centuries.  The  former  Al- 
Kantarah  (Arabic^  a  bridge)  was  boilt 
by  Al-Manssoiir  in  997,  to  replace  one 
of  the  8th  century,  and  is  a  wonderfril 
work.  It  was  fortified  by  Henrique  I., 
▲.D.  1217,  who  erected  an  imposing 
tower  that  leads  to  the  dty  by  three 
arches,  one  ogird,  snd  the  others  of  the 
horse-shoe  form.  An  inundation  oc- 
curred in  1268,  after  which  it  was  en- 
tirdy  repaired,  not  to  say  rebuilt^  by 
Alfonso  d  Sdno  (not  the  wim  bat  the 
IdKenti—Sapiens,  $amm(). 

PuenU  d$  Sem  iforiMi.— The  centrd 
aroh  ii  96  ft  high,  snd  140  ft  in  dia- 
meter. It  was  baht  in  the  18th  cen- 
toiy  (1212).  According  to.ligend% 
H 


466 


lOLSDO— -flTBXBT& 


dia  Architect,  ai  it  was  aboat  to  be 
eompleted,  found,  ai  many  oihen  hare 
•inoe  and  before  him,  that  hia  edifice 
would  cmmbledown  when  the  scaffold- 
ing ahoold  be  remored,  owing  to  a  vice 
in  the  conatraetion ;  npon  hearing 
which,  hia  aeftora  one  night  aet  fire  to 
it,  and  thus  aaved  her  ailly  lord  from 
diicredit  The  works  were  now  better 
carried  oat,  which,  howerer,  did  not 
prerent  its  being  obliged  to  be  rebnilt 
in  1800  hj  Archbishop  Tenorio.  The 
towers,  with  buttresses  at  the  extremi- 
ties^ are  of  the  aame  date,  though 
Moorish  in  ahape.  The  original  Moorish 
one  wasboUtby  the  Ehalif  Mohammed 
in  the  middle  of  the  i^  century,  and 
aitoated  more  K.  than  the  present 
There  are  a  feV  madionei  remaining^ 
and  a  tower  on  the  city  side. 

On  the  river  side  here  is  a  Moorish 
alcoba,  or  arched  recessed  tower,  open 
on  the  fonr  sides  like  a  payilion,  made 
of  briok.  The  ogire  and  horse-shoe 
are  seen  on  the  hqtudm ;  it  is  called 
Loe  BaMos  d$  Florinda,  and  alao  El 
Sa§o  <U  la  Cava,  an  ontrageons  epi- 
thet applied  to  the  danghter  of  Count 
Julian,  who,  legends  say,  was  seen 
bathing  here  by  King  Bodrigo ;  a 
tableau  too  vivant,  whidh  coat  him  his 
throne. 

The  Streeta  of  Toledo  are  rery 
narrow  and  ill  pared,  and  generally 
wanting  in  character ;  the  ahopa  moat 
indifferent  JV.^.— About  Christmaa 
time  the  oonfiteriaa  are  decked  out 
with  all  the  unpalatable  dainties, 
mof^'auM  and  jMstot,  of  that  season  of 
jollification,  agttinaldagt  and  indiges- 
tions. Toledo  is  celebrated  for  ito 
wiampauMi,  a  heayy  pasty  compound 
made  of  almonds,  burnt  sugar,  eta, 
and  made  to  assume  the  most  fimtaatic 
ahapes  of  aerpenta,  fishes,  horses,  sainta. 
These  are  placed  in  boxes  and  deco- 
rated with  arabeaquea  in  gilt  paper,  red 
silk,  yellow  wool,  eta      If  digestion 


is  the  conscience  of  a  good  atoanach, 
pray  eat  only  with  your  eyea— the  eight 
of  ciiurriguflreaque  pastry  will  beenoogh 
to  satiafy  you :  the  apricota  are  better 
things,  and  we  recommend  them  aa 
deaenring  at  least  one-fourth  of  their 
reputation.  The  principal  atieet  ia 
that  leading  from  the  Zocodorer  to  the 
cathedraL 

The  Zoeodover  is  a  Moorish  square, 
so  called  ftx>m  Zoko,  AmlM,  Thura- 
day,  on  which  day  cattle-marketo  were 
held,  and  are  held  stUl  in  Morocca 
The  Christiana  continued  to  hold 
a  mircado  here,  which  was  fitmeo — 
that  is,  exempted  from  taxea.  The 
ZocodoTcr  was  a  most  picturesque 
spot  in  the  16th  and  16th  centuriea, 
the  rendesTOUs  of  soldiers  out  of  work, 
of  weU-doing  bonditti,  of  traders  in 
ailks  and  stufls  from  all  parta  of  the 
world ;  it  was  the  former  Puerta  del 
Sol  of  Madrid,  the  MoorishVibairambla 
of  Granada,  the  Perohel  of  Malaga,  the 
Potro  of  SeTille,  eta  Now  there  are 
but  conmionplaoe  houses,  a  few  aqualid 
oonsumptire  trees,  and  ^ent  groupa  of 
proeaic  blackguards  and  oily-akinned, 
yellow-thumbed,  threadbare  shopkeep- 
ers. In  the  erening  it  is  resorted  to 
by  lounging,  yawning,  hands-in-the- 
pocket  amerengado  aefioritoe,  aa  emni 
almost  aa  the  word  ia  itself,  and  good 
honeat  Toledanoa  settling  the  affairs 
of  the  world,  which  they  see  through 
the  smoke  of  their  papelitoa 

Prirate  Honaea.  — Many  of  the 
houses  of  the  old  nolnlity  have  re- 
tained theb  peculiar  charaeteristies ; 
they  generally  belong  to  the  15th  and 
16th  centuriea,  and  partake  of  the 
Moorish  style  and  pliiereequa  The 
house-portids,  the  prqjecting  door- 
posts, the  cannon-ball  {la  bola)  orna- 
ment^ the  aoifits  and  lintel^  deeerre 
dose  attention.    Visit  first  of  all  the 

CSuKi  cb  ifeso,  oppr  H 

of  San    Roman. 


TOLEDO — ^LUNATIO  ASYLUM. 


467 


built  alter  the  conquest  bj  Esteban 
Ulan ;  though  a  shadow  now  of  what  it 
was,  the  saloon  shown  to  Tisitors  is 
still  admirable,  and  is  60  ft  long  by  22 
ft.  wide,  and  86  ft  high.  The  walls 
are  corered  with  exquisite  stucco  lace- 
like tracery  of  Taried  patterns.  The  roof 
is  a  beautiful  artesonado ;  at  one  end 
is  a  fine  agimes  window,  Moorish  in 
form  but  with  almost  Gothic  details ; 
the  alcoba  is  also  elegant 

Taller  del  Maro — In  the  Calle  del 
Moro^  S.W.  of  the  town,  so  called  be- 
cause it  was  turned  into  a  workshop 
for  the  cathedral  It  was  buUt  by  a 
wealthy  Moor,  and  belongi  to  the  third 
period  of  Moro-Andalnirian  architecture. 
What  remains  forms  an  oblong  square^ 
with  three  rooms.  The  saloon  is  64  ft 
long  by  28  ft.,  richly  decorated  with 
stucco-work.  It  has  been  sadly  ne- 
glected ;  the  other  two  rooms  are  equally 
curious  and  fine.  It  is  a  fine  example 
of  Christian  artists  imitating  Moorish 
art  The  Gothic  portal  was  added  by 
Cardinal  Mendosa. 

L(u  Tomerias, — Moorish  also ;  early 
style.  There  are  houses  also  dote  to 
San  Miguel ;  one  towards  the  W.  of 
this  church  bears  several  inscriptions 
that  hare  been  translated  by  Sr.  Gay- 
angos;  the  one  orer  the  door  runs 
thus  :  '  May  riches,  plenty,  and  perfect 
security  fall  to  the  lot  of  the  owner  of 
this  mansion,'  etc  We  shall  mention 
also  those  of  the  Toledos,  an  illustrious 
family,  dote  to  Ayuntamiento ;  of 
Conde  de  Fuensalida,  Munarriz,  del 
Temple,  de  D.  Diego  or  Conral,  etc 
The  palace  of  Cardinal  Ximenes  was 
behind  San  Juan  de  los  Beyes  ;  that  of 
Samuel  Leri,  whom  the  Jews  called 
'  Gran  Fabricador  y  en  todos  los  pueblos 
poderoeo^'  was  in  the  Jewry,  and  be- 
came alter  his  time  the  palace  of  the 
medinval  necromancer,  D.  Enrique  de 
yUlena.  It  is  now  abandoned  to  the 
wind,  the  bat,  and  the  rain ;  and  ii  un- 


dermined by  subtenaneous  caves,  in- 
habited by  doubtful  paupers.  There 
are  also  Tcstiges  of  good  Moorish  and 
Mauresque  work  about  the  steeples  of 
Santa  Vagdalena,  S.  Torcuato,  S. 
Marcos,  S.  Miguel,  S.  Justo,  S.  Juan, 
etc,  and  the  house  No.  6  in  Calle  de  la 
Plata,  which  latter  is  well  worth  a 
▼isit 

The  Palace  qf  the  Ooihie  Kinge  was, 
it  is  coi^jectured,  situated  dote  to  and 
orerhanging  the  Tagus,  towards  the 
Bridge  of  San  Martin ;  but  the  tower 
and  supposed  ruins  of  it  belong  to  the 
former  bridge  already  mentioned. 

The  LunaHc  Aeifhim,  Casa  del  Nun- 
cio^  is  a  modem  construction,  built  on 
a  site  of  a  former  establishment  for  the 
same  purpose,  which  was  erected  in 
the  end  of  the  16th  century  by  a  Tdedan 
canon,  Frandsoo  Ortis,  who  was  Pope's  . 
nuncia  The  present  house  was  bidlt 
by  Gardinsl  Lorenzana  as  a  substitute 
for  the  former,  which  is  the  one  m^« 
tioned  in  Don  Quixote,  and  is  placed 
in  another  part  of  the  town,  and  now  ^ 
belongs  to  a  prirate  person.  It  is  very 
well  conducted — on'  prindples  of 
humanity  and  order,  though  not  per^ 
haps  according  to  the  best  methods 
used  in  (Germany  and  England.* 

*  Madneat  it  not  a  nuJady  of  Spain,  whert 
the  brain  is  Mldom  troobled,  and  where 
lation,  ambition,  political  pawioni 
like  champagne  and  then  coUapae.  There' 
only  •384  lunatics  in  Spain  in  i860,  ct  whom 
945  were  females.  In  1861  there  were  ssot,  of 
which  97a  were  females.  The  provinces  that 
furmsh  the  most  are  Valemia,  Sarafoaa,  Gra- 
nada,  Madrid,  Barcelona ;  and  the  least,  Logo 
(only  a  IX  Orease,  Canary  Islands :  and  pntho* 
logically  fnraminf>d  the  percentage  is ;— Maniac 
enltation,  31.91 ;  monomaniacs,  ss':  mdaa* 
choly,  6;  derangement  of  mental  ficnltie^ 
00.33  :  imbecility,  6.15 ;  epileptic  made  em,  it ; 
undetermined,  ia4X.  The  most  usual  canass 
are:  lore  (}t»kmf,  sorrow,  disappointment, 
etc):  physical  disorders,  ill  attended,  especially 
in  fenttles:  politics  (ambition,  the  ptesi^  revo- 
Itttions,  etc);  speculation,  money,  etc,  Tery 
Now  the  proportion  with  other  < 


468 


T0LED0-T-SXQUB8I0NS. 


ProuMU—Th^  0at6  of  Heroolet 
will  tempt  all  loren  of  the  mureUoiiB. 
The  entnnoe^  now  welled  ap^  ie  tn  the 
Chinch  de  San  Gin^  It  ia  aaid  to 
extend  three  leegoea  fieyond  the  Ta- 
gaa,  and  ia  Ml  of  chapela  (Mdiee)  and 
manrela  of  Roman  art ;  hut  woe  to  the 
explorer — niahing  aoonda  are  heard, 
eto.,  apectree  aeen,  and  Roderik  him- 
aelf  on  Tentnring  within  almoat  died  of 
it  (Sonthej,  W.  Irdng,  *Leg.  of 
Conq.  of  Spain/  pp.  160-14.)  The  fact 
ii^  that  it  haa  nerer  been  riaited  aa  it 
maj  deeerTe»  and  thoee  that  will  do  ao 
may  meet  with  aome  interesting  relica 
of  the  paat^  snch  aa  hare  been  foond  at 
Onarrazar  (see  Madrid :  Araumry), 

Fromanadee. — The  Paaeo  de  las 
Boaaa  and  Alameda  are  pretty  and  the 
▼iewa  fine.  The  statnea  of  Wamba, 
eta»  are  all  modem.  Ontaide  the 
dty,  nnder  ita  walla,  are  the  ruina  of  ita 
Roman  amphitheatre  and  Kanmachia, 
the  eireoit  of  which  can  with  difficolty 
be  made  oat  (about  1040  ft  long  by 
880  ft  wide),  and  the  mina  are  indif- 
ferent and  few.  On  the  hilla  are  the 
Toledan  Tilla%  with  orohaida  and  no- 
riaa  called  here  arU$,  The  Tillaa  are 
called  Cigairalea,  from  the  Arabic 
Zigofrr,  *  a  place  of  treea ; '  aome  derire 
it  from  On^arro ;  Pisa  aaya  it  ia  ayno- 
nymona  wiUi  Piarralea.  They  are  en- 
doaed  with  a  atone  wall,  and  fumed  by 
a  few  atraight  walk%  with  olire  and 

tries  is  this,  Accordiiif  to  Eiqnirol, '  MMedne 
dcs  PMsioQs:'  London,  i  to  soo  inhabitaocs: 
Paris,  s  in  cwy  sss;  Gsiro,  i  to  •3.571;  and 
Madrid,  I  to  3. 3sa  It  is  be^des  to  be  nmem- 
bered  that  htnacy  Is  not  well  nnderrtood  b 
Spain,  and  that  nttny  p^*^i»t*s  plsffd  in  these 
establishments  are,  moceoyer,  pemns  gmlty  of 
aorder  and  other  crimes,  but  often  i  emoted 
here  throufh  a  certificste  of  a  short-sighted 
doctor, '  que  hace  la  vista  gorda ; '  end  the  song 
is  ri^  which  says  :— 

Un  loquito  del  hospfcio 
Me  dijo  en  una  occssion, 
Ni  son  todos  los  que  estin, 
NlcstintodosW^qoeson.  | 


almond  treai^  and  a  amall  indifferent 
honae  in  the  middle. 

Xaounloaa,  Terj  tenqiting  to  architects  and 
slcetcheis,  can  be  made  along  the  banks  of  the 
Tagos  and  the  hilly  slopes  of  the  Moolee  de 
Toledo,  Sierra  del  Duqne^  etc  We  adrise 
tourists  so  diqwsed  to  obttin  accurste  inibr 
■^nfi^ffi  nnecting  the  state  of  *^  roads,  and 
eq>ecially  if  the  country  be  ftee  of  rtteroe, 
bandittL  etc.  for  these  *»*<■*»*■  have  swarmed 
with  than,  and  amaleun  noecand  then  continue 
tofiIlupthe*GacetiUa  de  U capital'  with  ex- 
ploits, most  of  which  are  reduced  to  carrying 
the  unguarded  passenger  to  the  mountains  and 
addng  for  a  nmsooL  Visit,  if  possible,  the 
most  pictnreeque  old  fyf*L*t  of  Montalban, 
TocrUos,  Mora,  Almonadd,  Oigax.  All  this 
part  of  Spain,  «HUh  its  %rild  soenevy,  traditions, 
legends,  histerical  assonations,  and  intrinsic 
artistical  merit,  has  never  been  properiy  inves- 
tigated :  study  it  well  befora  leaving  Toledo ; 
procure  lettcn  of  recommendstion  for  the  ad- 
''*"*'f**adoTcs  of  these  real  'Chateaux  en  Es* 
pagne ;'  attend  to  the  provender,  end  obtain  a 
guide  well  acquainted  with  the  localities.  The 
angler  need  not  be  idle,  as  the  Tagus  is  'pi*- 
costts,'  even  according  to  Strabo  and  Mafttal : 
and  there  is  good  shooting  in  the  monies. 
iV.^.— The  casa  mayor  is  plentifiil,  and  ama- 
teurs of  wild-boar  hunting,  with  fftoiUrts  or 
without  them,  with  Mkmtm  or  not,  will  do 
well  to  obtain  an  introduction  and  permission 
to  aooompaoy  the  bold  and  amishle  young 
Maiqute  de  Mirabel,  whoee  pmrtidmt  have 
often  laid  low  upwards  of  fifty  or  seventy  heads 
ia  the  season.  The  Tagus  itself,  whose  very 
naoM  is  poetry,  will  not  &il  to  awaken  bterest. 
Is  the  Tagus  navigable  t  Could  it  not  connect 
Madrid  and  Lisbon  T  In  1581,  two  Italians, 
Antonelli  of  Naples,  and  Juanelo  Turriano  of 
Greaaona,  a  friend  of  Charles  v.,  whom  he  ac- 

Philip  II.,  which,  through  want  of  funds,  was 
overlooked;  but,  aococding  to  a  memoir  written 
by  the  minJitnr,  Lopes  BaUostaroa,  by  order  of 
Ferdinand  VII.,  the  Tagus  was  navigable  in 
1381  from  Toledo  to  Lisbon ;  and  tnx>ps  were 
sent  to  Lisbon  from  Heirera  by  tuniog-'a 
system  adopted  and  inqaroved  by  that  same 
Antoaeffi.  In  1755,  at  the  faMtigation  of  the 
minister,  Richard  Wall  (an  Irishman),  Sioion 
Portero  repeated  the  saaM  tour.  In  1899,  an 
engineer,  Agnstin  Marco  Artcs,  went  by  water 
to  Lisbon ;  left  April  8,  s8s8,  arrived  on  May  1 7, 
and  returned  in  thirty^ht  days,  perfonning 
the  Journey  in  a  saaaU  boat  wkh  a  lateen  salL 
The  schemes  and  trials  have  ended  here :  and 
the  proposed  railway  along  itt  banks  has  put  aa 


VALENCIA. 


469 


Old  to  ftntlier  projects.  Tuiriano  nisad  tho 
wftter  of  the  Tagus  to  the  Alcaatf  bj  meam  of 
a  a»oat  ingenioos  marhtne  called  a  fWS(^(clodc)» 
and  of  ti^ch  there  are  vcattget  atiU  opposite  to 
Saa  Cenrantes.  The  iUustrioos  engiDeer  was 
promised  a  laige  reward  before  the  scheme 
succeeded,  and  obtained  next  to  nodiing  after 
its  success. 

B0tk$  ^ R^trtnct. — t.  '  Toledo  pintoresca,' 
etc.,  bj  Amador  de  los  Rios;  Madrid,  Botn, 
1845,  with  woodcots.  Vety  interesting,  eqw 
didly  with  req>ect  to  Spanbh  architectiire. 

9.  'Album  aztistico  de  Toledo,'  by  M.  de 
Assas,  with  prints ;  Madrid,  1848,  foL  An  ex- 
cellent work,  exhibiting  great  erudition  and 
judgment  The  Arabic  inscriptioos  are  most 
accurate,  and  the  work,  we  beUere,  of  Sr.Gay- 
angos. 

3.  'Toledo  en  la  Mano,'  by  Parro  ;  Toledo ; 
Fando,  1857,  s  Ttrfs.,  and  a  handy  abridged 
edition  of  1858.    Excdlent  and  reliable. 

4*    Summi  Tcmpli  Tdetam  pew|uam  graphica 
Descriptio,'  etc.,  by  Orti&    (Bib.  of  Escurial, 
C  vw.  14.) 
^  5.  '  Explicadon  de  la  Inscripdoa  Gotica  de 


la  Lapida  de  Consagradoo,'  of  the  Cathedral, 
by  Paloanaras,  MS.  Acad.  Hist,  vol  iiL  of 
'varies  tratadosf  00  the  chronology  of  Spain. 
Read  to  this  Academy,  and  shoiring  ^at  it 
means  '  .Ara  DCXXV.' (^#.  587X  and  not '  Era 
DCXXX.'  etc,  as  some  have  awstttd. 

6.  'Da  Toletaao  Hebrmonun  Temple,* by 
Bayerio,  MS.  in  Acad.  Hist  (X  s86).  Coo- 
tains  the  full  descriptioo  of  El  Trsnsito. 

7.  The  books  treatii«  of  the  mirsde  of  San 
Ildefonso's  i$imaHimr9  by  the  Viiginars  SMvljf 
drawn  nom  fiilsined  chrnnicleSi 

The  best  worin  on  the  Jews  of  Toledo  are 
those  of  Amador  de  los  Rios,  Adotfb  de  Castro 
(Cadis,  1847).  The  latter  has  been  transbted 
into  English  by  F.  Kirwan.  There  are  also 
some  worin  on  the  sub|ect  written  by  James 
Finn,  1841,  and  by  E.  H.  Lindo^  8^0^  London, 
1848. 

On  the  Gothic  ritual— The  original  Gothic 
ritual  was  printed  at  Alcali  de  Henires,  1500^ 
by  order  of  Cardinal  Ximenes;  reprinlsd  by 
Cardinal  Lorensana,  in  1770^  in  Mexico  (at 
Puebla  de  los  AngelesX  aiid  a  second  edition 
at  Room,  in  1785-1804. 


VALENCIA  (The  Kinqdom  of). 


Oeogn^hioAl  and  AdminiatrAliTe 
Dlrliions,  BiTen,  etc.— This  fonner 
Beino  de  Valencia  consisted  of  some 
611  tqnare  leagnes,  and  now  fonns 
three  proyinces,  each  separately  go- 
yemed,  hat  all  under  the  military  an- 
thoritj  of  the  Capitan-General  of  Va- 
lencia. It  occupies  all  the  S.E.  portion 
of  Spain,  extending  from  the  Cenia 
(dyer),  on  the  frontiers  of  CatalnBa, 
to  the  Tower  de  La  Haradada,  the 
limits  of  the  kingdom' of  Marda,  on 
the  Mediterranean.  Popolation  of 
provinces  (1861) :— Valencia,  617,977  ; 
Alicant^  890,566 ;  Castellon,  267,184  ; 
in  all,  1,876,676.  The  first  is  now  289 
square  leagues ;  the  second,  164 ;  the 
third  andlast,  168.  Hostof  itconsisto 
of  hills,  the  tahle-landi  occupying,  only 
an  extent  of  240  square  leagues.  The 
principal  riyers  sre,  the  Tniia,  or  Qua- 
dalayiar,  which  flows  down  from  the 
mountains  of  Teruel  and  Albaradn; 


the  Jdcar ;  from  the  same  hiUs,  the 
Albayda,  Alcoy,  Juanes,  which  inter- 
sect it  from  W.  to  E.;  the  Myares  and 
Palanda,  Oenia,  ete.  It  is  hounded  to 
the  N.  by  the  range  of  mountains 
which  rise  and  extend  like  a  harrier — 
yiz.  Sierra  Molina,  Muda  de  Ai^ 
which  separate  it  from  Catalufia ;  to 
the  E.  by  the  Mediterranean ;  W.  by 
the  Ouadalayiar,  Cuenca ;  8.  \tj  Sierra 
Mayor  and  Muroia.  *  The  highest 
mountains  are  the  Sierra  Picochera  to 
W.,  and  the  Ayora  and  Bigaron  ranges 
toS.W. 

History. — The  history  of  the  pro- 
yince  is  that  of  iti  capital ;  Cartha- 
ginians, Romans,  Ck>ths,  and  Moors, 
hare  in  snceession  possessed  this  lair 
kingdom,  the  brigjhtest  pearl  in  the 
diadem  of  the  Queen  of  Spain ;  and 
although  it  deriyed  benefitf  from  each* 
it  is  especially  the  offspring  of  the  Moor, 
who  loTed  it,  and  lavished  on  it  his 


470 


VALBMOIA. 


gold  and  Uood.  Under  tlieMosleuinila 
YileneU  became  the  garden  of  Spain, 
and  here  the  Mooraplaoedthefarparadiae, 
andoalleditacai^talMedinah-Ta-Tarab, 
theCityofllirUL  Ita  riches,  oonaiating 
of  thoae  of  the  aoil,  natural  and  inex- 
hanttible,  as  well  as  thoae  accnmnlatad 
b J  generationa  of  wealthy  nilera,  and  an 
enterprising  predatory  ^people,  tempted 
the  Christian ;  and  his  faith— we  ahall 
more  aimply  call  it  coretonsneas  ex- 
hanated  aU  the  means  within  its  reach 
to  wrest  such  treasores  from  the  ab- 
honed  infidel  The  Cid  was  called  to 
interrene  in  domestic  fends  and  internal 
dissensions,  and  in  1096  the  kingdom 
became  his.  It  was  subsequently  an- 
nexed to  Aragon,  and  was  finally 
merged  in  the  crown  of  CastUe'  and  of 
Spain.  Thia  proTinoe  suffered  ytrj 
considerably  at  the  hands  of  Philip  Y., 
whose  cause  it  would  not  espouse,  and 
of  the  French,  during  the  Peninsular 
War.  The  principal  datea  of  its  history 
are:— 

Foundatkm  of  Valencia  bj  Juntnt  Bnitiii, 
136  B.C    (See  page  48*.) 

Gothic  rqle  established,  413  A.C 

Conquest  of  the  Moon  under  Abdn-f-Axif, 
7XS,  when  it  fonned  part  of  the  Ununeyikh  Kha> 
li&te  of  Cocdoba. 

BecasM  an  indfipflwdftwt  Moorish  kiiMdoB^ 
in  S096. 

Capture  of  Valencia  bj  the  Gd,  io94-5. 

Independent  kingdom  mled  by  the  Od,  and 
hit  dealh  here,  1099. 

Conquest  of  Valencia  by  Jaime  L  of  Angon, 
SepC  aS,  lasS  (or  1939X 

Annexation  to  crowns  of  Castile  and  Angon, 
16th  century. 

Expulsion  of  the  Moors,  and  fint  death-blow 
to  its  prosperity,  i6ia 

Philip  V.  and  the  War  of  Succession,  17x8. 

Surrender  of  the  capital  to  Suchet,  181a. 

Evacuation  by  the  Frendi,  i8ij. 

Oharaotar,  Dreas,  Ooatoma. — ^The 
'  Yalendaneta,'  as  they  call  themselTes, 
speak  a  sort  of  Limousin  dialect,  the  old 
Langue  d'Oc,  which  Don  Jaime  intro- 
duced from  Catalufia.  The  pronuncia- 
tion and  meaning  of  some  words  differ 


from  that  spoken  in  the  Principado,  and 
the  softer,  more  harmonious  termina- 
tions used  here  indicate  the  proximity 
of  Andalusia — ^heat—nndgreaterloisure. 
The  principal  featurea  of  character  are, 
superstition  ;  rerengeful,  relentless 
spirit^  ni  oMdo  ni  perdono;  lore  of 
pleaaure,  dandn^^  lore-making,  sipping 
the  delicious  cool  horchata  de  chuiEiis,  a 
local  drink.  The  people  are  laborious, 
perserering,  generally  honest ;  fond  of 
bright  colours  and  pomp ;  in  Tiolent 
lore  or  hatred,  sullen  and  mistrustfuL 
(Mme,  arising  from  jealousy*  enyy, 
family  dissension,  and  tarem  brawls,  is 
frequent,  and  attended  with  hyena^ike 
fierceness.  The  escopeta  and  trabnoo 
are  used  with  wonderful  precision  by 
the  labourers,  who  seldom  go  without 
one,  as  ulHma  roHa,  or  timely  adrer- 
tisements  about  wages,  and  mere  trifles. 
They  are  withal  Urely,  imaginatire, 
rery  intelligent^  enterprising,  and  the 
upper  ciswii  moet  polished  and  agree- 
able^ of  unbounded  charity  and  gene- 
rosity. The  darker  shadea  of  their 
character  would  be  considerably  bright- 
ened up  by  interior  enlightenment^  as 
all  is  night  still  in  their  minds ;  and 
education  would  eorrect  and  refine  the 
conditions  of  their  fine,  nenrous  tem- 
perament, excited  snd  irritated  as  it  is 
by  a  burning  sun,  and  perfectly  un- 
checked. To  the  stranger  they  are 
aflable,  kind-hearted,  and  hare  pride  in 
ahowing  off  their  cities,  their  huerta, 
their  diess,  and  eren  their  expeditious 
way  of  suppressing  their  intimate  ene- 
mies. In  a  word,  as  the  Qoth  exj^ains 
the  Asturian,  and  the  Celtiberian  the 
Basque,  the  key  to  the  character  of  thia 
strange  and  poetical  people  must  be 
sought  in  the  East  As  to  their  physical 
appearance^  they  are  tall,  manly,  statu- 
esque, wiry ;  indefatigable  walkers,  dark 
complexioned,  with  fieiy  black  eyei^ 
irory  teeth,  and  an  expreaaion  of  mo- 
bility natural  to  their  constantly  ex- 


VALENCIA. 


471 


citedf  nenrouB  tempennioiit.  The  wo- 
men $n  a  complete  contnst  to  the  men, 
and  are  hiontU  €  grtutoUSf  like  the 
Yenetlana.  They  are  admirably  fonned, 
hat  rather  inclined  to  mbonpainl,  with 
a  melancholy  smile  on  their  months, 
and  a  soft  racant  gaze.  They  go  little 
abroad ;  praotising  the  Moro-Castilian 
'  Gada  nno  en  sn  casa  y  Dioe  en  la  de 
todoa,'  only  sallying  oat  in  the  morn- 
ings toshopvcomarMiiMiM^  and  to  mass. 
They  are  fond  of  dress,  which  is  rery 
pictaresqae  and  Eastern,  and  wear  their 
beaatifal  hair  in  all  sorts  of  fantastical 
shapes — ^mostly  pleasing  and  beooming. 
The  dress  of  the  men  consists  of  a  richly- 
embroidered  yelret  jacket^  or  rither 
waistcoatyWith  open  shortsleeTesandfili- 
gree  battons  ;  worn  more  especially  on 
holidays ;  then  come  white  linendrawers, 
or  kiltSi  Tery  wide,  loose  and  folded,  and 
called  with  an  Arabic  name  (Sarahnells). 
Their  legsaregeneraUynaked,  admirably 
formed,  sinewy,  and  black  as  the  Hin- 
doos'. Sometimes  they  wear  stockings 
withont  feet,  or  hempen  sandals  (espor- 
dinffea),  tied  ap  with  blue  coloored 
strings ;  a  purple,  black,  or  red  silken 
sash ;  the  many-coloured  manta,  thrown 
OTer  the  shoulder ;  and  the  gay  yellow 
and  red  kerchief  binding  the  head  like 
a  turban,  showing  the  long  hair  in  the 
upper  portion  of  tiie  head,  complete  the 
oostome,  and  volo  d  Deu,  who  will  find 
fault  with  it  f  The  women  wear  a  short 
boddioe,  silk  or  cotton,  according  to  the 
means ;  a  relret  jacket^  and  a  silken 
kerchief  carried  orer  their  heads ;  the 
roll  of  hair  is  pierced  with  a  sUrer-gilt 
pin,  with  knobs,  called  Arilla  derodete 
(literally  in  Catalan,  wheel-pin),  and  a 
Tery  high  sUrer^t  comb»  caUed  {xin- 
teta,  now  worn  lower  than  it  used  to  be 
formerly.  Jewels  (Jcyaa)  are  also  pro- 
fusely worn,  and  are  mostly  heirlooms 
handed  down  from  mother  to  daughters, 
and  dating  from  the  earliest  times  dT 
the  discoveiy  of  America.    The  forms 


are  most  classical,  and  the  stones,  eme- 
ralds^ and  amethyst^  often  large  and 
fine,  but  seldom  cut  Sereral  dlorms 
are  also  worn,  such  as  small  silTer  images 
of  local  saints,  and  of  the  great  local 
patroness,  Kuestra  SeAora  de  Desam- 
parados^  a  sflrer  filigree  crosa^  etc  The 
popular  holidajs  and  festlTities  are 
mostly  religious,  and  the  Corpus,  Holy 
Week,  Dia  de  San  Vicente  Ferrer,  the 
tutelar  of  Valencia,  etc,  are  rery  well 
worth  seeing,  as  spectacles  of  a  bygone 
race  and  age 

Affriooltiire,  Mines,  Trade. — ^The 
Huerta  of  Valencia  presents,  with  the 
Vega  of  Qranada,  the  spectacle,  unique 
in  Europe,  of  the  most  luxuriant  vegeta- 
tion of  tiie  tropics,  and  of  almost  incre- 
dible  fertility;   the   hortelanos  Hare 
wisely  followed,  and  practise  to  this 
day,  the  maTJms  and  methods  be- 
queathed to  them  by  the  great  hydran- 
list  Moors.    This  wonderful  plain  is 
coTcred  with  a  net-work  of  canids  and 
aqueducts,  Sangrias,  aoequias,  regueras, 
with  norias  or  water-wheelB,  the  distri- 
bution of  water  (liquid  gold  here)  being 
subjected  to  strict  regulations  emanat- 
ing from  the  Tribunal  de  las  Aguss. 
(See  General  Information:  AgrimUwrt,) 
Thus  irrigated,  liyified  by  a  tropical 
sun,  an  ererlasting  summer,  and  thickly 
manured  (often  with  guano,  of  which 
15,000  tons  were  used  in  1862),  the  soa 
yields  four,  fire,  and  six  crops  in  suc- 
cession.   The  alfalfa  (lucerne)  is  mowed 
fourteen  or  serenteen  times ;  the  orange 
(the  most  important  tree  here),  the  rice^ 
the  melon,  mulberry,  grow  in  enormous 
numbers ;  oora,  maise,  are  admirable 
Cochineal  is  successfully  reared  on  no- 
pals^ and  cotton  would  succeed  wonder- 
fully were  it  seriously  tried.    There  are 
some  manufactures,  especially  of  siUu^ 
velvets,  doths,  dgara,  glass,  aminos, 
tinctures,  spirits,  etc    The  mines  are 
rare,  and  of  little  imp<xtance  ;  quick- 
silver, copper,  lead,  and  in  the  moun* 


472 


VALENOIA. 


tainfl^  marblet,  coal,  and  alabaster. 
There  is  tome  trade,  especially  with 
England,  in  fniit,  nllcs,  rioe,  etc.,  and' 
there  are  signs  everywhere  of  rapidly- 
increasing  prosperity  and  wealth.  Some 
excellent  wines  are  produced,  which  call 
loudly  for  more  improved  processes, 
which  wonld  fit  them  lor  exportation  ; 
soch  are  those  of  Alicante,  Fondillol, 
Benicarl^  La  Torre,  and  a  hundred 
others.  The  national  dish  of  the  coun- 
try is  poUo  con  arroz,  or  arroz  k  Is  Ya- 
lenciana,  chickens  stewed  with  rice, 
sausages,  pimientos  (red  peppers),  cho- 
rises,  hsm.  It  is  most  savoury,  whole- 
some, and  belongs  to  thepositivist,  not 
poetical,  school  of  gastronomy,  whose 
adepts,  according  to  Brillat-Savarin,  eat 
to  live,  and  do  not  live  to  eat  The 
great  culinary  oracle  also  said — 

La  Mte  ae  ttattrrit.    Lltomme  maiigw. 
L'homine  d'espril:  leul  nit  dtntr. 

The  gazpacho  is  another  favourite 
dish.  But  fruits  are  considerably  eaten, 
and  with  a  melon,  aValencian  eats, 
drinks,  snd  washes  his  face  and  hands. 
For  a  towel  he  uses  his  manta,  that 
which  also  serves  as  doak,  towel,  bag, 
and  horse-cloth,  all  in  commoiL 

Boutes,  Olimate,  eto.— The  climate 
is  generally  delicious^  though  variable, 
and  well  suited  to  invalids.  Fevers, 
terdanas,  are  of  frequent  occurrence  in 
the  vicinity  of  marshes  and  irrigated 
lands.  Mortality  is  great  among  the 
labourers  who  are  employed  in  such 
districts  as  about  Oropesa,  the  Tucar, 
etc. ;  but  in  the  rest  of  the  reino  the 
atmosphere  is  balmy,  very  soft  and 
mild,  and  considered  very  supei)or  to 
that  of  Italy.  The  cities  are  dull  and 
devoid  of  interest,  with  the  exception 
of  Valencia,  which  is  a  dean,  social, 
and  polished  dty,  containing  numerous 
fine  works  of  art  In  its  neighbourhood 
also  are  the  ruins  of  Murviedro.  It 
must  not  be  forgotten  that  tins  is  the 
native  land  of  Luis  Yiv^,  called  the 


Spanish  Baeon,  of  the  OanmiUes,  Ma» 
deu,  Sempere^  and  other  critics  of  note ; 
of  the  painters^  Juanes,  Ribalta,  Ribera, 
Espinosa,  Orrente,  and  Mardi,  only 
equalled  by  the  schools  of  Seville  and 
Madrid ;  of  the  printers,  Mallen,  Cabre- 
rizo,  Salvd,  etc;  of  the  dramatists, 
Guillen  de  Castro ;  of  the  poets,  Yimea^ 
Factor ;  of  OU  Polo,  Mosen  T.  Juan 
Jardi,  of  the  great  engraver  Esteve  ;  of 
the  military  worthies,  Nicolas  de  Pro- 
dda,  Boil,  Moncada,  etc  The  roads 
are  good,  secure,  and  well  kept,  and 
railways  are  springing  up  everywhere. 
The  principal  interest  in  the  kingdom 
is  in  connection  with  the  novd  luxuri- 
ant vegetation  of  some  districts ;  the 
dress,  or  rather  absence  of  any,  of  the 
peasantry,  who  remind  us  of  Albanian 
peasants,  etc.  The  places  deserving  of 
a  visit  sre  Elche,  a  city  of  palms  ;  Ja- 
tiva,  Garcagente,  and  their  forests  of 
orange-trees  ;  and  the  Albufera,  for  its 
capital  shooting  and  fishing  (see  Va- 
lenda).  Every  season  is  favourable, 
save  Ihe  summer,  when  the  heat  is  in- 
supportable, even  by  the  sea-side  It 
is  a  region  of  Spain  which,  from  its 
many  attractive  features  of  sky,  dress, 
etc,  proves  very  engaging  to  the  artist 
The  extraordinary  atmosphere  of  golden 
lights  the  purple  morado,  the  tint  of  the 
mulberry  (which  colour  the  douds  at 
sunset),  .and  the  rich,  warm,  red  browns 
of  the  Huerta,  Bibalta,  Eqpinosa,  and 
other  painters  of  the  Yalendan  school, 
were  fond  of  transferring  to  their  can- 
vas. Objects  under  this  fogless  clear 
sky  come  out  with  great  relief,  whilst 
the  vaporous,  hazy  atmosphere  often 
thrown  over  Spanish  views  by  English 
painters  veils  details  which  impart  cha- 
racter to  the  whole 


itt 

Vftknda  to  Alicante, 

s. .  laU. 
Elche,  d. 
Orihuela,  d. 
Miircia,d. 


Xouttt.  ad. 

Valencia  to  Liria,  d. 
Ses;orbe,  d. 
Alcira,  r.       ) 
Albocacer,  r.  VsmaU  d. 
Mofdla,r.    j 


472 


VALENOIA. 


tainfl^  marblw,  coal,  and  alabaster. 
Then  it  some  trade,  especially  with 
England,  in  fruit,  silks,  xioe,  etc,  and' 
thm  are  signs  OTerywhere  of  rapidly- 
increasing  prosperity  and  wealth.  Some 
excellent  idnes  are  produced,  which  call 
londly  for  more  improTed  processes, 
which  would  fi't  them  lor  exportation  ; 
soch  are  those  of  Alicante,  Fondillol, 
Benicarl^  La  Torre,  and  a  hundred 
others.  The  national  dish  of  the  coun- 
try is  poUo  con  arros,  or  arroz  k  Is  Ya- 
lendana,  chickens  stewed  with  rice, 
sausages,  pimientos  (red  peppers),  cho- 
risoi^  hsm.  It  ii  most  sayoury,  whole- 
some, and  belongs  to  thepositivist,  not 
poetical,  school  of  gastronomy,  whose 
adepts,  according  to  Brillat-SaTarin,  eat 
to  live,  and  do  not  lire  to  eat  The 
great  culinary  oracle  also  said — 

La  Mte  ae  nomrii,    LlKHnme  mamgt, 
LlioauM  d'eqwit  teal  «uc  Mntr. 

The  gazpacho  is  snother  fayourite 
dish.  But  fruits  are  considerably  eaten, 
and  with  a  melon,  a  Valendan  eats, 
drinks,  and  washes  his  face  and  hands. 
For  a  towel  he  uses  his  manta,  that 
which  also  senres  as  doak,  towel,  bag, 
and  horse-cloth,  all  in  common. 

Boutes,  Olimate,  eto.— The  dimate 
is  generally  delicious,  though  Tsriable, 
andweU  suited  to  iuTalids.  Fevers, 
teroianas,  are  of  frequent  occurrence  in 
the  vicinity  of  marshes  and  irrigated 
lands.  Mortality  is  great  among  the 
labourers  who  are  employed  in  such 
districts  as  about  Oropesa,  the  Tucar, 
etc ;  but  in  the  rest  of  tlie  reino  the 
atmosphere  is  balmy,  very  soft  and 
mild,  and  considered  very  8upei)or  to 
that  of  Italy.  The  cities  are  dull  and 
devoid  of  interest,  with  the  exception 
of  Valencia,  which  is  a  dean,  social, 
and  polished  dty,  containing  numerous 
fine  woriu  of  art  In  its  nei^bourfaood 
also  are  the  ruins  of  Murviedro.  It 
must  not  be  forgotten  that  this  is  the 
native  land  of  Luis  Yiv^  called  the 


Spanish  Baam^  of  the  OavmniUes,  Ma» 
deu,  Sempere,  and  other  eritics  of  note ; 
of  the  painteriB,  Juanes,  Ribalta,  Ribera, 
Espinosa,  Orrente,  and  Mardi,  only 
equalled  by  the  sdiools  of  Seville  and 
l^Mlrid ;  of  the  printers,  ICallen,  Oabre- 
riso,  Sdvd,  etc;  of  the  dramatisti^ 
Guillen  de  Castro ;  of  the  poets,  Yiruea^ 
Factor ;  of  Oil  Polo,  Mosen  T.  Juan 
Jardi,  of  the  great  engraver  Esteve ;  of 
the  military  worthies,  Nicolas  de  Pro- 
dda.  Boil,  Honcada,  etc  The  roads 
are  good,  secure,  and  wdl  kept,  and 
railways  are  springing  up  everywhere 
The  prindpal  interest  in  the  kingdom 
is  in  connection  with  the  novd  luxuri- 
ant vegetation  of  some  districts ;  the 
dress,  or  imUier  absence  of  any,  of  the 
peasantry,  who  remind  us  of  Albanian 
peasants,  etc  The  places  deserving  of 
a  visit  are  Elche,  a  dty  of  palms ;  Ja- 
tiva,  CSarcagente,  and  their  forests  of 
orange-trees  ;  and  the  Albufera,  for  its 
capital  shooting  and  fishing  (see  Fo- 
Unoia).  Every  season  is  fovourable, 
save  Uie  summer,  when  the  heat  is  in- 
supportable, even  by  the  sea-side  It 
is  a  region  of  Spain  which,  from  its 
many  attractive  features  of  sky,  dress, 
etc,  proves  very  engaging  to  the  artist 
The  extraordinary  atmosphere  of  golden 
lights  the  purple  morado^  the  tint  of  the 
mulberry  (which  colour  the  douds  at 
sunset),  .end  the  rich,  wsrm,  red  browns 
of  the  Huerta,  Bibalta,  E^osa,  and 
other  painters  of  the  Yalendan  school, 
were  fond  of  transferring  to  their  can- 
vas. Objects  under  this  fogless  dear 
sky  come  out  with  great  relief,  whilst 
the  vaporous,  hazy  atmosphere  often 
thrown  over  Spanish  views  by  English 
painters  veils  details  which  impart  cha- 
racter to  the  whdc 


itt 


R0mU$, 


Valcocb  toAUcante, 

t.,  laU. 
Elche,  d. 
Orihuela,d. 
MvcMf  d. 


Valeodato  Ltria,  d. 
Sef^ofbef  d. 
Akira,  r.       ) 
Albocacer,  r.  VmuB  d. 
Mofdla,r.    j 


YALKNOIA — ^BOTJTEa 


473 


nt 

AnBssn»  nuL 
Alciia,  raiL 
Valencia,  rafl. 
(Id  a  wade) 


RmU$»  ad. 

Tofftosaf  d* 
Viaaroi,  d. 
Bemaad,d. 
Ofopatat  d* 
Casielkm.  d« 
MorviedTOy  laiL 
"  ,  laiL 
(In  a  weak.) 


Valencia. — OapiUl  of  proyinoe  of 
Mune  name  ;  Inshop't  see,  Primate  of 
Spain— population,  107,708  (1861) ;  a 
seaporL 
BonteaaadOonTeTanoee.— 1.  From 
BamtUma  bj  rail  through- 
out^ with  the  exception  of  a 
few  miles,  84  hoori^  be- 
tween Yentalloe  and  Tortosa.  Barce- 
lona to  Tarragona,  diet  101*74  kiU 
Time,  8  hrs. ;  Cues,  41r.  66a,  88r.  18o. 
Tarragona  to  Valencia,  diet  261  kiL 
Time,  114  l^n.  ;  Cues,  Olr.  87c.,  58r. 
70o.;  in  all,  144  hn.  Tickets  taken 
at  Barcelona  or  Valencia  indode  the 
diL  com.  Office  at  Barcelona,  at  La 
RamUa.  The  time  is  regulated  alter 
the  Madrid  meridian.  The  difference 
between  the  latter  and  the  Barce- 
lona time  ii  of  88m.  28s. ;  and  between 
Madrid  and  Tarragona  time,  ItaL  48s., 
which  most  be  added  to  the  time  fixed 
for  trains,  which  is  the  Madrid  time. 

Deaoription  of  Bouie. — ^The  scen- 
ery is  picturesque,  and  assumes  here 
and  there  a  moet  Oriental  character. 
The  fertility  of  the  soil  is  most  erident. 
There  are  some  moet  lovely  views  on  ap- 
proaching Tsrragona,  Valencia,  etc  On 
fearing  Barcelona,  tiie  railway  crosses 
the  fertile  and  weU-culUvated  tract  of  Ca- 
talu2U ;  near  HtrnpiUdA  a  model  Cum- 
house  has  been  established  which  thrives 
very  well.  The  liobregat  river  is  met 
several  times,  which  waters  the  plains, 
and  ii  also  applied  to  manufactures. 
Close  to  JMint  is  the  beautiful  stone 
bridge  of  Llandoner,  on  the  old  hi^ 
road  to  Tarragona.  The  Liobregat  ii 
crossed  on  approaching  Martorell,  and 
not  far  from  the  famous  bridge  del 


DUMo  (see  Martoiell)  the  view  of  the 
dty  and  its  environs  is  very  beantifuL 
Thedistantview.oftheMonsenat,  Call- 
hM,  and  Olesa  is  striking: 

MartorelL— 4187  inhabitants.  Iim: 
Possda  de  la  Cfarus.  This,  the  Roman 
Tolobris,  is  situated  at  the  foot  of  a 
very  hi|^  hi]l«  which  shelters  it  fhun 
the  8.  winds.  A  dirty,  irregularly 
built,  but  thriving  town,  in  the  pro- 
vince of  Barcelona.  There  is  no  object 
of  interest  here,  save  the  magnificent 
Roman  PiuinU  del  Diablo  over  the  Lio- 
bregat ;  this  is  one  of  the  finest  Roman 
works  in  Spain,  the  rival  of  those  at 
Alcantara,  Merida,  etc  It  was,  there 
is  little  doubt,  originally  built  by  the 
Oarthaginiani^  and  ascribed  to  Hanni* 
bal,  581  B.a,  in  honour  of  Hamilcar. 
It  is  buUt  of  a  reddish  stone,  and  with 
the  ntmoet  regularity.  The  bold,  cen- 
tral, ogival-pointed  arch  is  188  fL  wide 
in  tiie  span,  and  a  work  of  the  Moors. 
At  one  extremity  is  a  triumphal  arch, 
perfectly  preserved,  plain,  massive, 
mijestic,  monumental,  il  characteristios 
of  its  Roman  architects.  Thebridgeis 
narrow,  and  so  steep  on  both  sides  that 
it  is  inaccessible  to  vehicles.  It  was 
repaired  in  1768.  The  scenery  about 
it  is  a  fit  frame  for  such  a  monument^ 
for  the  eye  sweeps  over  well-cultivated 
plains  watered  by  the  liobregat 
Olesa  and  Collbat6  appear  in  the  dis- 
tance^ and  above  and  beyond  soars  ma- 
jestically into  the  blue  heaven  the 
Monserrat,  seen  in  all  its  grandeur  and 
fhll  proportions.  A  little  beyond  the 
bridge,  portions  of  Martorell  appear  on 
the  slopes  of  the  hill,  and  the  Noya, 
which  washes  its  projecting  portions, 
and  flows  fh>m  Igualada,  joins  the 
Liobregat  Conveyances  to  mineral 
baths  of  La  Puda ;  oonveyances  to  £s- 
parraguera,  Igualada,  and  Monsenat 

Villaraaa.— 400inhabitant&  Shoray 
alter  leaving  that  village  the  travdler 
enters  the  Sierra  de  Ortal,  and 


474 


VALENOU— BOUTSa 


the  fine  bridge  of  LUndoner,  thrown 
boldly  orer  a  deep  ravine  between  two 
hills ;  the  road  is  good,  and  the  scenery 
piotoresque  and  garden-like ;  the  fer- 
tility of  the  soil  ii  most  evident. 

Villafranca  dels  Paaadea  (cf  ih» 
Baken). — 6600  in)iabitants.  A  good 
Qothio  chnrchy  bnt  modernised.  A 
dnll,  backward  town.  Some  very  early 
palaces  of  kings  of  Aragon,  Connt  of 
Bocafort,  etc..  La  Casa  Pia  Almoina, 
etc.,  of  no  great  interest  At  7i  m.  off 
the  high  road,  and  on  a  hill,  ii.tlie 
hamlet  of  San  Martin  de  Sarroca,  the 
chnrch  of  which  is  perhaps  the  porest, 
and  certainly  most  exqoisite,  tjrpe  of 
the  Byzantine  in  Cataln&a ;  10  m.  off 
in  anotiier  direction  ii  Sitjes,  where  ex- 
cellent white  wine  ii  produced,  one  of 
the  many  in  Spain  which  are  as  yet  un- 
known. YiUairanca,  founded  by  Ha- 
milcar,  was  the  earliest  Carthaginian 
colony  in  Catalulka.  The  road  be- 
tween Arbos  and  Tarragona  is  charming; 
following  the  Mediterranean,  now  dose, 
now  at  some  distance,  which  here  does 
truly  '  lend  enchantment  to  the  view.' 

VendrelL— 4300  inhabitants.  Most 
picturesque  from  a  distance.  On  left, 
the  sea  (half-an-hour  off),  to  rights  well 
oultivated  plains.  Further  on  we  see 
the  Boman-built  'Portal  de  Barra.' 
Elegant  and  well-proportioned,  the 
span  of  the  arch  is  some  17  feet  wide  ; 
the  inscription  formerly  here  ran:  '£z 
testamento  L.  Licini  F.  Serg.  Suns 
consecratum,'  but  was  defaced  by  Gene- 
ral Van  Halen,  to  make  room  for  a 
pompous  eulogy  on  Espartero,  which 
was  likewiie  destroyed. 

Close  to  Altafulla  the  Oayi  is  crossed 
on  a  stone  bridge.  To  the  right,  to- 
wards the  sandy  '  plagas  Uargas,'  on  a 
small  mound,  is  the  'Torre  de  los 
Esdpiones,'  supposed  to  be  their  tomb 
(|Me  Tarragona),  Now  the  road  winds 
a^>ng  the  shore^  and  on  a  hill  in  the 
distance  rises 


Tarroffona  (see  that  name).  Leaving 
Tarragona  and  proceeding  on  oar  Jour- 
ney to  Valencia,  Saiou,  the  rival  port 
of  Tarragona,  it  reached.  The  ^nes 
around  it  produce  some  good  red  wines, 
which,  to  procure  readier  sale,  are  much 
encabesados.  The  Moscatel  is  exquisite. 
The  scenery  here  is  charming,  snd 
the  sea  scarcely  ever  lost  sight  of. 
The  peasants'  dress  and  appearance 
change  about ;  this  place,  become 
less  Catslan  and  more  Valencian — 
that  ia,  lose  the  Carthaginian  char- 
acter and  assume  the  garb  and  mien 
of  the  Berber  and  Bedouin.  At  San 
Carlos  de  la  Bdpita,  not  far  ofli; 
the  ill-fated  madcap  General  Ortega 
landed  some  years  sgo  with  a  few 
troops  he  had  enticed  to  follow  him, 
accompanied  by  the  foolish  Monte- 
moulin,  and  his  no  wiser  brother. 
The  discontented  officers  turned  against 
the  leader,  and  a  '  sauve  qui  pent '  was 
resorted  to  by  the  princes  and  generaL 
The  former  were  politically  allowed  to 
escape,  bnt  the  young  and  handsome 
Ortega  wss  taken  and  shot,  malgri 
the  intercession  of  the  generous  Em- 
press of  the  French,  a  friend  of  other 
days. 

The  country  teems  with  fruit-trees 
and  vines.  AmpoUa  nestles  in  the 
heart  of  the  miniature  gulf  which 
bears  its  name.  The  sea  is  scarcely 
lost  sight  ofl 

rortcwi.— 22,000  inhab.  A  fortified 
city  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Ebro.  Its 
importance  is  derived  from  the  dtuation 
in  a  military  view,  and  as  a  trading 
port,  exporting  for  upwards  of  twenty 
millions  of  reals  yearly.  On  leav- 
ing this  station,  and  crossing  the  Cenia, 
the  province  of  Valencia  is  entered. 

Ftnoros.— The  Duke  de  VendOme 
died  here  in  1742.  The  Castra  Aetia  of 
Sertorius,  who  wintered  his  troops  here^ 
lies  0}  leagues  from  Morella,  which  con- 
tains a  curious  I^eaia  Mayor  of  1817 ; 


VALENCIA — ROUTEa 


470 


withapictoreofRibaltaa.  Cabrera, who, 
had  hia  adyice  been  followed  by  the  Pre- 
tender, would  now  reign  Prime  Minister 
and  probably  Grand  Inquisitor,  scaled 
the  castle  by  ropes  on  the  night  of  Jann- 
try  25,  1888,  defeated  near  its  walls 
the  queen's  troops,  and  was  made  Conde 
de  Morella.  The  warm  and  picturesque 
Morellana  blankets  are  made  here. 

JBemeourlS,  —  6000  souls  ;  a  fish- 
ing port.  Here  is  produced  the  cele> 
bnted  strong;  rich,  heady  Wine,  which 
Ib  sent  to  Bordeaux,  Bayonne,  eta,  to 
strengthen  light  Macon  and  give  body 
and  sweetness  to  the  poor  add  piquette. 

Akdld  (de  Chisbert).  —  Near  this 
station  is  the  very  ancient  little  Tillage 
of  Pe&iBOola,  said  to  be  Diodoms,  Aera 
Leuki,  founded  by  Hamilcar,  and  upon 
whose  altars  young  Hannibal  swore 
Tengeance  against  ihe  Bomans. 

CatUUon  (de  la  Plana). —Buffet,  16 
m.  Fonda  del  Ferro  Oarril;  22,000 
inhabitants.  A  modem  and  most  un« 
interesting  city,  which  owes  its  pros- 
perity to  the  enterprising  and  intelli- 
gent '*  labradores "  of  the  country 
around.  Admirers  of  the  Yalencian 
school  of  painting  will  do  well  to  visit 
its  parish  church,  which,  indifferent  in 
other  respects,  contains  a  fine  Asuncion 
by  the  Italian  Carlo  Maratta  (17th  cen- 
tury), a  good  Ribalta  orer  Altar  de  las 
Animas,  and  in  the  choir  a  St  Anthony, 
abbot,  St  Ellis  and  Sta.  Lucia,  by  same, 
and  a  Descent  ascribed  to  Zurbaran. 
There  are  besides  sereral  Bibaltaa^  etc., 
scattered  in  the  six  other  churches  of 
this  place.  After  a  few  stations,  cross 
the  river  Palenda,  and  reach 

Murviedro. — (See  Falenda,  Excur- 
sion to  Murviedra) 

The  road  continues  to  Valencia  amid 
plains  teeming  with  the  vine,  rice,  etc, 
studded  with  small  whitewashed  Tetuan- 
like  cottages^  and  Valencia  appears  in 
the  distance  situated  amid  pahns  and 
i'ypmscs. 


From  Hadrid,  by  rail ;  time,  14] 
hrs. ;  two  trains  a-day ;  dis- 
tance, 806.miles ;  fares,  1st 
d.,  217r.  ;  2d  cL,  167r. 
250.;  8d  cL,  lOlr.  25c  Buffet  at  Al- 
mansa,  where  the  Alicante  to  Valencia 
train  is  waited  for,  and  carriages 
changed.  For  description  of  route,  see 
Madrid  from  Faleiuia.  Betum  tickets 
at  reduced  prices  during  June,  July, 
August,  and  September. 


Trom  Baroelona,  by  sea  (by  lan^ 
Btetupra),  Occasional  En- 
glish and  Spanish  steamers^ 
such  as  those  of  the  CompaAia  de  Na- 
yegadon  6  Industria,  which  go  to  Liver- 
pool, touching  at  Alicante,  Cartagena, 
Almeria,  Malaga,  and  Algedras,  and  the 
Asturian  ports.  The  Tarraconense^  82 
tons,  26  hone-power,  leaves  twice  a-' 
month  (offices,  Calls  de  Ases,  No.  1) 
for  Tarragona,  touching  at  Si^es,  Vil- 
lanueva,  and  Amporta.  The  Catalan 
leaves  on  Tuesdays  and  Fridays.  Offi- 
ces at  Valencia,  Calle  San  Vicente  No. 
69.  Lopez's  leave  7th  and  22d  at  10 
AX.,  arrive  at  Valencia  8th  and  28d. 

From  MjurseiUes. — ^The  most  direct 
route  is  by  the  splendid 
steamers  of  Messageries 
Imp^risles.  Berths  and 
all  information  may  be  obtained  at 
Valencia,  of  Agenda  General  de  Va- 
pores  de  las  Messageries  ImpMales, 
etc  ;  at  Marseilles,  Place  Boyalc 
Steamen  leave  for  Valencia  (on  their 
way  to  Oran  and  Algiers ;  leave  Oran 
on  9th,  19th,  and  29th  of  each  month  ; 
there  is  besides  a  land  service  every 
other  day)  every  Wednesday  at  4  p.m., 
and  arrive  on  Fridays  at  7  am.  (leaving 
three  hours  after  for  Oran).  Fares, 
1st  cL,  104fr.  ;  2d  d.,  75lr.  ;  8d  cL, 
86fr.  The  passenger's  living*  is  in- 
duded  in  the  1st  and  2d  dass  tickets. 
Tending  an^  Carriage  to  railway  office 
at  MarMilles  also  induded.    Luggage, 


476 


YALENOU — ^ROUTSa 


lit  cL,  100  m,  ft«6 ;  2d  a,  60  Idl ; 
8d  cL,  80  kfl.  Children  under  two 
yeen  of  age^  free ;  from  two  to  ten,  lialf 
tut,  Betam  tickets  ayailible  for  four 
months.  Senrante  are  receired  aa  paa- 
aengers  between  deek%  or  can  be  ad- 
mitted to  apeeial  cabins  at  a  reduction 
of  20  IdL  on  the  fore  cabin  passage. 
The  Oie.  de  Narigation  Mixta  of  Ar- 
nand  Tonache  Fr^na  despatch  steamers 
to  Algiers,  which  touch  at  Cette,  com- 
bining with  trains  of  South  French 
Baihray,  and  at  BarodonA.  They  leare 
twice  a-month,  on  16th  and  80th, 
steamers  of  600  tons.  The  Cie.  Mar- 
seillaise de  NaTJgation  k  Yapeur  of 
Fndssinet  et  Cie.  lesTe  on  the  7th  and 
17th  of  each  month,  touching  at  Bar- 
celona and  Valencia,  on  their  route  to 
Alicante^  Almeria,  Cartagena,  Valaga, 
(Hbraltar,  and  Cadis,  and  leare  the 
latter  for  Valencia  and  same  route,  on 
the  8th  and  18th.  For  details  on  Mar- 
aeilles,  see  ifocirifi 

Vrom  Oraa  the  Messageriea  Imp^ 
riales  steamers  leaye  ereiy  Wednesday 
at  10  A.U.,  arriTing  on  Thursdays  at 
2  P.M.,  and  leaTing  8  hrs.  after  for  Mar- 
aeilles.  Fares,  1st  cL,  52fr. ;  2d  cL, 
42fr. ;  8d  cL,  15fr. 

Trom  ICalaffa,  by  aea,  17  houra. 
See  mpra,  fiom  JBmrctlana,  Occasional 
steamers  may  be  heard  of  at  Zorillas, 
Cortina  del  Muelle  88,  etc. 

Prom  AUoaate,  by  aea,  steamers  of 
Cie.  NsTegadon  h  Indua- 
tria,  10  hn^  and  occasional 
steamers.  By  rail,  119  milea;  Two 
trains,  8  hrs.  86  m.  (mail 
train).  Fares,  Ist  cL,  79r. ; 
2d  a,  81r.  690.  ;  8d  cL, 
26^".  26o.  Change  carriagea  at  Almanaa, 
where  the  Madrid  to  Valencia  train  is 
waited  for.  A  good  buffet  For  de- 
scription of  route  to  Almanaa,  see  Ali- 
eamU/rifm  Madrid;  and  from  Almanaa 
to  Valenda,  see  Madrid  frcm  Falmcia. 


Vrom  Zaragosa. — ^Tlie  tourist  may 
also  go  by  rail  from  Zaragoca,  fay 
Daroca  and  Teruel,  48  to  60  houra ;  by 
diligendaa,  Postas  de  Ara- 
gon,  and  by  Smpresa  Turia 
'Valendana ;  distance^  64) 
leagues.  Fares,  berl,  240r. ;  int,  200r. 
The  road  is  weariaome,  mdnteiesting^ 
and  not  much  frequented.  The  ecde- 
siologist  d  outnmee  may,  howerer, 
gather  some  interesting  imprewions 
at  Daroca  and  TerueL 

On  leaTing  Zaragosa,  the  Canal  Im- 
perial is  crMsed,  and  OarHlimM  (2000 
inhabitants)  is  soon  reached.  There 
are  here  acTeral  traoea  of  the  Gothio 
and  Moorish  periods — a  subterranean 
chapel,  forroeriy  a  moaque ;  and,  dose 
to  Uie  modem  parish,  a  square  tower, 
once  the  property  of  the  Knights  of  St 
John.  On  the  slopes  of  the  hills  situ- 
ated S.  of  the  city  grow  the  Tines  from 
which  the  excellent  Carifiena  white 
wine  is  made.  Shortly  after  leaTing, 
the  Puerto  de  San  Martin  is  trsTeraed, 
and  finally  we  reach 

DarooA.— 2600  inhabitants.  A  Tery 
fine  ancient  city,  situated  in  a  hollow, 
and  surrounded  by  hi^  hills  (a  good 
posada).  These  Idlls  are  crowned  by 
Moorish  walk,  flanked  by  144  towers, 
and  producing  a  most  picturesque 
effect  The  town  itself  is  dull,  and 
looks  poor,  although  the  chief  place  of 
a  district  which  teems  with  com  and 
wine.  The  sights  are  the  Colegiata,  a 
Gothio  edifice  built  middle  of  16th 
century  by  Juan  IL  of  Aragon,  and 
modernised  in  1687.  A  Doric  chapel 
is  ornamented  with  a  fine  platareaque 
retablo,  with  Salominic  columns.  The 
Ascension  is  the  work  of  Frandaoo 
Franco^  1682.  Here  are  kept  the  cele- 
brated relica  called  Los  Santos  Oorfo- 
rdU$  (the  napkins  where  the  sai^ 
wafers  are  k^),  placed  in  a  golden 
reliquaxy,  a  ^ft  of  Ferdinand  the 
Oatholio.    Amrding  to  legend,  those 


YALBNOU — ^ROUTSa 


477 


mirtoaloiis  oorponles  were  used  on  the 
day  of  a  battle  againit  the  infidel  (in 
1S89),  when  Don  Berengaer  Denteuxa 
was  besieging  the  oastle  of  Ohio,  in 
the  proTinoe  of  Valencia.  The  Moon 
attacking  a  party  of  Ghristianfl,  the 
latter,  who  were  in  the  act  of  taking 
the  sacrament,  came  oat  to  repel  them ; 
the  priest  wrapped  up  the  wafers  in- 
tended for  them  in  the  corporales,  hid 
them  in  a  bosh,  and  after  the  defeat 
of  the  infidels  the  oorporales  were 
found  to  contain,  instead  of  six  wafers, 
six  bits  of  bleeding  flesh — ^the  mystery 
of  transnbstantiation  being  thns  eri- 
dent  They  are  exhibited  to  the  pub- 
lic on  Corpus  Christi  Day.*  The  other 
sight  here  is  the  mina,  or  tunnel  built 
to  afford  an  outlet  to  the  orerflowing 
water,  when  the  rains  threaten  to  in- 
undate the  dty.  It  is  2840  ft.  long, 
24  ft;,  wide,  and  24  ft  high,  and  the 
work  of  a  Frenchman,  Herre  Bedel 
(1660).  The  Jiloca  rirer  is  followed 
some  time,  and  its  affluent  the  Pan- 
crudo  is  crossed. 

TerueL — ^A  decent  Fonda  in  Calle  de 
los  Ricos  Hombres ;  7166  inhabitants  ; 
the  chief  place  of  one  of  the  three  pro- 
Tinces  which  formed  the  ancient  king- 
dom of  Aragon.  This  old  dty  is  pic- 
turesquely placed  on  the  slopes  of  a  lofty 
hill,  watered  by  the  Quadalquiyir  ;  the 
old  crumbling  walls,  wretched  houses, 
and  dirty  streets,  are  in  unison  with  the 
appearanceof  its  inhabitants.  The  sights 
are  not  many. 

The  Cathedral  is  alargeedifice  dirided 
into  three  naves.  It  is  sombre,  and  has 
been  cruelly  disfigured  by  modemisers. 
The  elaborate  retaUo  is  the  work  of  a 
French  sculptor  of  1688,  whose  style 
and  handling  are  Italian-like,  Gabriel 
Yoli  or  Joli ;  obserre  also  a  picture  of 
the  11,000  viigins,  on  right  of  transept, 
by  sn  excellent  Yalendan  painter,  An- 
tonio Bisquert ;  the  reiy  fine  diapel  de 
la   Epilania,  the  well-canred  classical 


siUeria,  the  rdaNo  in  OapiUa  de  los 
Beyesi  also  by  Bisquert ;  the  ooro  screen, 
and  two  excellent  silTer  cuttcditu,  one 
especially  of  the  plateresque. 

Ckurth  qf  Samtiagc-^A  first-rate 
retablo,  and  a  grand  Dead  Christ,  by 
Bisquert,  whom  study  attentirely  here, 
as  his  works  are  Tsry  scarce,  and  his 
style  almost  unknown. 

Chapil  of  $1  Salvador  contams  the 
celebrated  miraculous  image  of  the 
'  GUsto  de  las  tree  Manoa.' 

Torr4  de  Sam  Martin. — A  square 
Moorish  belfry  tower.  It  rises  over  an 
ogiyal  arch,  which  constitutes  one  of  the 
entrance  gates  of  this  gloomy,  solid 
Aragonese  dty.  Notice  tiie  interlaced 
details,  arabesque  traceiy,  and  raried 
azulejoa. 

Churek  qf  San  iWro.— Other  admir- 
able spedmens  of  Bisquert*s  are  the 
pictures  of  the  tutelars,  San  Joaquin 
and  Sta.  Teresa  ;  the  fine  retablo  is  by 
TolL  In  the  cloisters  lie  buried  the 
celebrated  Amantes  de  Teruel,  Juan  de 
Mardlla,  and  Isabella  de  Segura,  who 
died  1217,  and  whose  bodies  were  found 
perfectly  preserred  as  late  as  1666 ;  they 
were  brought  here  in  1708.  Their 
pathetic  story  has  formed  the  subject 
of  several  dramas  and  poems,  both  old 
and  modem,  from  Peres  de  Montalban 
and  Taque  de  Sales  to  Hartiembush. 

There  is  also  a  celebrated  aqueduct 
to  riait  here,  which  is  one  of  the  finest 
in  this  part  of  Spain,  and  the  work  of 
Pierre  Bedel,  the  able  French  engineer 
who  made  the  DarocaMina.  It  was  built 
in  1660,  and  carries  the  water  to  the 
town  from  ahill  three-quarten  of  a  mile 
off*,  and  orer  140  stone  arches. .  Close  to 
the  city  the  double  arches  thrown  oyer 
ravine  measure  about  60  ft.  span,  and 
160  ft  in  height  Thoee  of  the  lower 
stage  are  circular,  and  those  above 
Gothic  From  Teruel  several  roads 
diverge ;  one  leads  to  Cuenca,  riding 
19)  leagues  amid  Alpine  scenery  and 


478 


YALBNOU — ^ROUTES. 


diftricti  hitherto  unexplored,  end  add 
to  be  of  greet  interest  to  geologists. 
The  hi^est  peek,  U  Mnela  de  San 
Joan,  is  5280  ft  high.  There  is  also 
some  good  sport  Alharaidn  may  be 
made  head-quarters.  A  local  guide  is 
indispensable.  Madrid  can  be  easQy 
reached  from  Cnenca  (see  Madrid  flrom 
Oumea), 

Another  ronte^  snitable  for  carriages, 
leads  to  Oalataynd,  26  leagaes,  by  the 
old  Boman  road  from  Tarraco  to  Bilbilis, 
across  fertile  districts. 

The  third  ronte  constitntes  the  car- 
retera  between  Zaragoza  and  Valencia. 

Jeriea  is  crossed ;  an  old  semi-Moor- 
ish city,  with  an  imposing  rained  castle. 
The  Palenda  is  crossed  on  a  fine  bridge 
made  by  the  Bishop  of  Segorbe,  Joan 
de  Mnhatones,  in  1670. 

Segcrbe,'-6200  inhabitants.  On  the 
slopes  of  two  hills  and  left  bank  of  the 
Palenda ;  a  bishop's  see.  This  very 
pictnresqne  and  andent  dty  possesses 
still  its  curious  Boman  walls  and  three 
fine  Doric  colomns,  which  once  formed 
part  of  a  temple,  and  now  decorate  the 
lafade  of  a  modem  paJado  bdonging  to 
the  Dnke  de  Medina  Cell.  The  streets 
in  the  older  portion  of  the  dty  are  pre- 
dpitons,  ill-pared,  winding.  The  newer 
qnartier  looks  commonplace,  and  con- 
tains no  objects  of  interest  The  CkUhs- 
dral  is  in  itself  poor  and  indifferent, 
bat  contains  a  yery  fine  retablo,  with 
pictnrea  by  Joan  de  Joanes,  representing 
soenes  from  the  life  and  death  of  the 
SaWoor.  The  cloisters  are  of  good  style. 
In  the  Church  of  San  Martin  obserre 
some  fine  pictures,  and  among  others 
the  Christ  in  Limbo^  by  Bibalta,  and 
the  Vinon  of  the  TuteUr. 

Sereral  indifferent  villages  are  now 
trarerMd,  and  leaying;  on  left  the  Con- 
Tent  of  San  Mlgud  de  los  Beyes, 
founded  1541  by  the  Duke  of  Calabria 
for  his  burial,  and  of  which  the  doisters 
are  worth  seeing;  we  enter  the  fertile^ 


sunny  Huerta-  of  Yalencia,  which  wi 
follow  for  some  time  before  this  dty  is 
reached. 

From  Balaario  lalands.— Frwn  Pal- 
ma,  touching  at  Yjisa,  Tapores  oorreos 
leave  on  Sundays  at  8  a.m.,  and  on 
Thursdays  the  Jaime  II.  at  8  p.m., direct 
The  former  leaves  Yvisa,  Sundays  at  6 
P.M.  (see  Balmmic  I$Umds). 


Ths  Cldcatx  or  Yaudioia. 

Valenoia  is  dtuated  85*  2r  16*  N. 
lat,  and  8*  IS'  E.  long,  of  Madrid ; 
89*  28*  80*  N.  lat,  and  16*  84'  l6ng.  of 
Paris;  89*  28*  N.  lat,  and  0*  28*  W. 
long,  of  Greenwich.  From  iti  particu- 
lar dtuation,  being  as  it  isshdtered  by 
lofty  hills  firom  the  cold  and  dry  con- 
tinental winds  which  blow  fit>m  W.  and 
K.,  and  opened  and  much  exposed  to 
the  warm  moisture  of  the  sea-breese, 
beddes  its  high  latitude  and  being  built 
in  a  pldn  teeming  with  vegetation, 
which  partly  owes  its  luxuriance  to  great 
and  constant  irrigation,  the  imperme- 
ability of  a  clayey  and  calcareous  sub- 
soil, Yalencia  possesses  sll  the  characters 
of  a  warm  yet  moist  temperature  essen- 
tially depressing.  According  to  Mi- 
fiano's  Tables,  Bomagosa*s  *  Aho  Clinico 
de  Cin^jia,'  etc,  the  prevalent  Wind  is 
the  Levanter,  which,  from  December 
1840  to  December  1841,  was  fdt  622 
times,  whilst  the  western  was  fdt  only 
206  times,  the  north  102  times,  and 
the  due  south  Wind  (scorching  Sahara 
breath)  only  28  times.  The  Levanter 
sweeps  over  the  Mediterranean,  and 
therefore  absorbs  its  moiiter  vapours 
before  arriving  at  Yalenda.  Thus  it 
tempf*s  the  summer  heat,  and  adds  but 
little  to  the  edd  in  winter.  When  the 
K  wind  turns  to  S.  and  beeomes  the 
dreaded  sirocco  (the  Boman  eurus— S.K)^ 
which  is  often  the  case,  it  beoomea  warm. 


TALBNOIA. 


479 


lowering,  oppvessiye,  thongli  it  oontiiines 
to  be  moist  The  W.  wind  oomesAcrosB 
the  denuded  plains  of  La  Manbha  and 
the  arid  sandy  plateaux  of  GastHe,  and 
breathes  on  the  town  an  atmosphere 
horning  in  summer  and  cold  in  winter, 
always  dry.  The  S.W.  is  rainy  and 
precursory  of  storms.  The  most  dreaded, 
but  fortunately  the  rarest  of  all,  is  the 
Si ;  it  is  the  breath  of  the  des^  and 
tnmsforms  Valencia  into  an  oven,  be- 
sides which  it  crosses  the  marshes  and 
rice-grounds  near  the  Albufera,  and 
thus  Ib  charged  with  mephitic  paludian 
miasms ;  the  Tory  sky  then  becomes 
iron-grey,  birdi^  insects,  and  plants 
show  signs  of  depression,  and  man  lies 
prostrate. 

Bain  is  not  frequent  The  average 
number  of  days  is  88,  on  'an  arerage  of 
five  years.  According  to  D.  Edwin 
Lee,  it  rarely  rains  unless  with  an  E. 
wind.  The  autumn  and  spring  are 
the  rainy  seasons.  The  dew,  especially 
in  winter,  is  very  great ;  and  as  much 
as  6r  (after  8au8sure*s  hygrometer) 
have  been  calculated  during  eight 
months. 

TempenUun, — ^The  average  heat  is 
18*  42^ ;  wmter,  11*  4' ;  spring,  17*  8* ; 
summer,  24*  O';  autumn,  19*  G',  the 
thermometer  seldom  falling  to  zero,  and 
never  below.  Snow  is  among  things 
unknown.  This  medical  station  is 
placed  within  the  third  isothermio  zone, 
determined  by  Alex.  Yon  Humboldt, 
on  the  line  which  crosses  Naples,  Cape 
Matapan,  St  John  of  Hese,  and  Ben- 
der-AbassL 

If^/lueniee  <m  EeaUK  and  Diteam — 
The  market-place  is  here,  as  elsewhere,  a 
&ithful  and  palpable  evidence  of  tiie 
peculiarities  if  tiie  climate ;  and  here 
local  proverbs  are  not  to  be  scorned. 
Thus  the  Zaragosans,  who  drink  bad 
water,  which,  being  muddy,  etc,  has  a 
bad  influence  on  the  health,  say  : 

Mm  comemos  de  lo  qoe  bebeaMM. 


Whilst  the  Yalendans  say : 
Gune  et  Tetdora  i 
Verdura  ts  agua ; 
Honnrcs  son  uiugoicsy 
Ymugeret,  nada. 

The  influence  of  this  climate  is  there- 
fore depressing^  not  stimulating.  This 
is  exhibited  in  the  people,  who  are 
pale,  with  a  flabby,  pnSSed-up  skin, 
and  a  great  predisposition  to  corpu- 
lence. The  drains  of  the  town  are 
badly  managed,  and  the  Levanter 
often  brings  with  it  the  abominable 
emanations  of  the  Tail,  near  the  Baala. 
The  streets  are  sunless ;  the  houses 
hi^  and  ill-aired.  The  water  drunk  is 
drawn  fix>m  a  well,  with  which  each 
house  IB  furnished;  it  is  considerably 
charged  with  lime,  and  therefore  does 
not  dissolve  soap,  and  makes  the 
vegetables  hard.  It  often  impedes  easy 
digestion,  and  is  disagreeable  to  taste. 
Globules  of  quicksilver  have  been 
sometimes  found  in  the  water,  as  there 
Ib  a  deposit  of  it  which  goes  throu^ 
the  day  stratum  which  passes  under 
the  town  at  a  depQi  of  2  ft.  only,  and 
from  E.  to  W.  (Bomagosa).  The 
dimate  is  suited  to  those  of  nervous 
temperament^  whose  skin  ii  dry  and 
the  sensibility,  great  and  irritable. 
Owing  to  the  sudden  transitions  of 
temperature  caused  by  the  change  in  the 
sea  and  continental  wind%  bimichitis, 
quinsy,  pneumonias,  and  pulmonias  are 
frequent  During  the  hot  season  if 
iced  drinks  be  taken  in  excess  gastric 
(even,  diarrhcaa,  eta,  inmieduUely 
ensue.  In  cases  of  consumption  this 
climate  is  not  fiivourable,  espedaUy 
when  the  symptoms  are  as  yet  of  an 
alarming  character;  and  it  is  known 
to  have  often  prevented  the  hemop- 
tysia ;  but  in  cases  of  tertiary  symp- 
toms it  should  be  carefully  avoided, 
for  it  would  prove-  deadly,  owing  to 
its  dissolvent  and  depressing  ohaiacter. 
N^g^ected  catarrhs,  which  frequently 
occur  in  the  summer,  especially  among 


472 


Y^LBHOUl 


iMina,  nuurUee^  coal,  and  alabaster. 
There  is  some  trade,  especially  with 
Sn^^d,  in  fruity  sUks,  lioe,  etc,  and' 
there  are  signs  eYer3^here  of  rapidly- 
increasing  prosperitj  and  wealth.  Some 
excellent  wines  are  prodnced,  which  call 
londly  for  more  improred  processes, 
which  woold  tit  them  for  exportation  ; 
soch  are  those  of  Alicante,  Fondillol, 
Beniear^  La  Torre,  and  a  hundred 
others.  The  national  dish  of  the  conn- 
try  Ib  poUo  con  arroB,  or  arros  k  la  Va- 
lendana,  chickens  stewed  with  rice, 
sanssges,  pimientos  (red  peppers),  cho- 
risos,  hsm.  It  is  most  saroury,  whole- 
some, and  belongs  to  thepositlTist,  not 
poetical,  school  of  gastronomy,  whose 
adepti,  according  to  Brillat-SaTarin,  eat 
to  live,  and  do  not  lire  to  mt  The 
great  culinary  oracle  also  said — 

La  Wee  se  m^mrii.    LlKMBme  mmh^v. 
L*houiie  (fespnt  muI  sait  ditur. 

The  gazpacho  is  another  faroniite 
dish.  But  fruits  are  considerably  eaten, 
and  with  a  melon,  aYalendan  eats, 
drinks,  and  washes  his  Uob  and  hands. 
For  a  towel  he  uses  his  manta,  that 
which  also  senres  as  cloak,  towel,  bag, 
and  horse-cloth,  sll  in  common. 

Boutds,  Olinubte,  eta— The  climate 
is  generally  delicious,  though  Tsriable, 
and  well  suited  to  inyalids.  Ferers, 
terdanas,  are  of  firequent  occurrence  in 
the  Ticinity  of  marshes  and  irrigated 
lands.  Mortality  is  great  among  the 
Ubourera  who  are  employed  in  such 
districts  as  about  Oropesa,  the  Tucar, 
etc ;  but  in  the  rest  of  tiie  reino  the 
atmosphere  is  balmy,  Teiy  soft  and 
mild,  and  considered  Teiy  superior  to 
that  of  Italy.  The  dties  are  dull  and 
deroid  of  kiterest,  with  the  exception 
of  Yalenda,  which  is  a  dean,  sodal, 
and  polished  dty,  containing  numerous 
fine  works  of  art  In  its  nei^bourhood 
slso  are  the  ruins  of  Kurriedro.  It 
must  not  be  forgotten  that  this  is  the 
natire  land  of  Luis  Yir^  called  the 


Spanish  Baoom,  of  the  OsTinilles,  Mat* 
deu,  Sempere^  and  other  critics  of  note; 
of  the  paintei%  Juanee^  Ribalta,  Bibera» 
Espinosa,  Onrente,  and  Mardk,  only 
equalled  by  the  sdiools  of  Seville  and 
Madrid ;  of  the  printers^  Mallen,  Oabre- 
riso,  SalT^  etc;  of  the  dramatisti^ 
Guillen  de  Oastro ;  of  thepoete,  Yiruee^ 
Factor ;  of  Gil  Polo,  Moeen  T.  Juan 
Jaidi,  of  the  great  engrayer  Estere ;  of 
the  military  worthies^  Nicolas  de  Pro- 
dda.  Boil,  Moncada,  etc  The  roads 
are  good,  secure,  and  wdl  kept,  and 
railways  are  springing  up  everywhere. 
The  prindpal  interest  in  the  kingdom 
is  in  connection  with  the  novd  luxuri- 
ant vegetation  of  some  districts ;  the 
dress,  or  raUier  absence  of  any,  of  the 
peasantry,  who  remind  us  of  Albanian 
peasants,  etc  The  places  deserving  of 
a  visit  are  Elche,  a  dty  of  palms  ;  Ja- 
tiva,  Caroagente,  and  their  forests  of 
orange-trees  ;  and  the  Albufera,  for  its 
capitol  ahooting  and  fishing  (see  Fo- 
lenda).  Every  season  is  &vourable, 
save  the  summer,  when  the  heat  is  in- 
supportable, even  by  the  sea-side  It 
is  a  region  'of  Spain  which,  from  iti 
many  attractive  features  of  sky,  dress, 
etc,  proves  very  engaging  to  the  srtist 
The  extraordinaiy  atmosj^ere  of  golden 
lights  the  purple  morado^  the  tint  of  the 
mulberry  (which  colour  the  douds  at 
sunset),  .and  the  rich,  warm,  red  browns 
of  the  Huerta,  Bibslta,  Eq^osa,  and 
other  painters  of  the  Yalendan  sohod, 
were  fond  of  transferring  to  their  oan- 
vaa.  Objects  under  this  forces  dear 
sky  come  out  with  great  relief,  whilst 
the  vaporous,  hazy  atmosphere  often 
thrown  over  Spanish  viewa  by  ED^^ish 
painters  veils  details  which  impsrt  cha- 
racter to  the  whdc 


lit. 


Valencia  toAKcante, 

a..  faiL 
Elche,  d. 
OrihtwKd. 
if  vcia«  d. 


R0mi*t.  ad. 

Valencia  to  Liria,  d. 
Sc^orbCfd. 
Akm,  r.       ^ 

lforeUa,r.     ) 


48S 


YALBNOIA. 


U  bonolM^  OB  Uadn  njoa  blra  d«at 
Urtgud;  em  noin  d^moiu  de  U 
Hoerto  ont  poor  fcnunes  des  ftiiges 
bkaeiL'  Tbm  tn  no  booki^  and  Tory 
littb  art;  tba  OtUMdial  and  Homo 
at«  in  mlitj  tfaa  only  ai^t^  and 
ona  long  d^  wUl  sniBee  for  t£em  ;  bat 
to  tba  real  artift  than  will  ba  ampla 
aompanaation  in  tba  itody  of  tha  popu- 
lation in  tba  maricat  and  on  tba 
Mnalla ;  and  of  tba  aoanery  in  tba  an* 
Tirona  and  bj  tba  aaa-aida. 

Hiatorloal  Votioa^— Tba  nama  Ya- 
lencJamaymaantbaettyofBaly  ormajba 
'  darirad  from  tha  LatinValantia,  atrengtb, 
powar,  aa  Bomai  in  Graak,  aigniflaa  tba 
atma.  It  waa  probablj  an  aarij  PboD- 
nidan  eolonj,  and,  aeeording  to  lArj, 
waa  granted  bj  Junina  Bnitaa,  wbo 
waa  confol  in  Spain,  to  tbraa  Tetenna 
of  Viriatna,  188  B.a  Pompaj,  wbo 
waa  dafaatad  bj  Sartorina  on  tba  banks 
of  tba  Tnria,  daatioyad  it  It  waa 
rebuilt  by  Sartorlua,  became  a  eo- 
Ionia  and  tba  ca^tii  of  tbe  Bdetani, 
Tba  Gotba  took  poeaeadon  of  it^  418 
▲.a,  and  tba  Barbara  nndar  Yoaaof, 
714,  wbo  enlarged  tba  email  Boman 
cironit  wbicb  tbe  Gotba  bad  preaenred. 
Tbe  Mooriab  line  of  walla  onoe  extended 
ftt>m  tbe  Temple  to  Pnerta  de  Serranoi^ 
Oalla  del  fla^ario,  Portal  de  Salinaa, 
Oalle  de  Laa  Danaa ;  tben  went  on  by 
Oalle  Nnera,  tbat  of  Oem^ieroa,  wbicb 
it  left  balf -way ;  tamed  to  the  rigbt  by 
Homo  de  la  Pelota,  to  Oalle  de  Barce- 
lona, Plasa  San  Vicente  ;  tamed  to  left 
bebind  San  Jorge^  and  by  tbe  aide  of 
present  Sta  Tomaa  retamed  to  tbe 
Temple.  Tbia  last  drcoitwas  enlarged 
by  Pedro  lY.  in  1866.  Thewallabowa 
tbe  external  line.  At  tbe  general  die- 
tribation  of  Arab  racee  all  orer  Spain, 
tbe  Syriana  obtained  this  portion.  In 
1020,  an  independent  kingdom  waa 
founded  bere  by  Abel-Ajda,  wbicb 
lasted  till  1094.  A  league,  aided  by 
*hb  Cid,  was  tben  formed  againat  ita 


prineea.  Tbia  bero  beaisged  tiia  town, 
wbicb  at  laat  aarrendoed  ▲.D.  1094<^ 
Here  be  goremed  aa  a  cmel  and  abao- 
late  dictator  ontU  bia  deatb  in  lOM. 
No  aooner  bad  tbe  tidingi  of  bis  deatb 
spread  oTer  tb^  land  tban  tba  wbole  of 
tbe  AlmoraTide  army  baatily  marched 
againat  tba  dty  tbat  Ximena  defended. 
In  tbe  plains  of  Cnarta  tbe  two  armiea 
were  aoon  in  presence  of  each  other. 
Tbe  Christian  army,  greatly  redneed 
in  nnmben^  placed  the  body  of  tba 
Od  npon  bia  well-known  ateed 
Babieca,  at  whoae  eight  tbe  tenrified 
Moon  opened  way,  and  tba  Oaatiliana 
withdrew  in  all  haate^  abandoning  a 
dtj  which  they  coold  no  longer  de- 
fSand.  It  waa  rec^tored  from  tlia 
Moon  September  88, 1288,  by  Jayma 
el  Oonqaistador,  wbo  added  it  to 
Aragcm.  Tbe  Yalendana  foraied  part^ 
under  the  warlike  kings  of  Arsgon, 
of  sereral  important  military  and  nayal 
expeditions,  with  which  Boger  de 
Lauria's  name  is  aaeodited.  It  waa 
brou^t  under  tbe  Spanish  crown  by 
tba  union  of  Ferdinand  and  Isabdla, 
Yalenda'a  proaperity  waa  now  at  an 
end.  The  Mortscoea,  who  bad  created 
ita  atrength  and  power,  onltiTated  tha 
T^gas  and  buerta,  bad  been  ita  magical 
ardiitecta,  and  bad  raiaed  ita  woodroua 
palaoea  and  bcidgea,  wen  expelled  by 
Philip  IL,  1809  ;  and  the  war  of  auo- 
cession,  in  which  it  aided  with  tba 
Archduke  of  Auatria,  dealt  the  death- 
blow. Its  frieroa  wen  taken  ttom  it 
by  Philip  Y.  after  bia  rictory  at  Al- 
mAnaa.  During  tbe  Peninsular  War, 
tbe  city  roae  to  defiend  the  throne  of 
Ferdinand  YII. ;  tbe  monk,  Pladn 
Bico^  headed  tbe  mob ;  Canon  CalTo 
organised  it ;  Moncey  was  beaten  back ; 
but  on  March  5, 1810,  Suchet  eaaily 
captured  the  town,  which  waa  all  con- 
ftision,  and  the  uaual  fighting  for  power 
and  peraooalidadea  between  Blake  and 
tba  Junta.    Queen  Chriatlna  abdicated 


VALENCIA— OAIHKDRAL. 


483 


here;  Eepartero  wee  neined  Regent, 
•ad,  in  1848,  Naryaei  wee  raiaed  to 
the  Gnndeia»  with  the  title  of  Dnqne 
de  YalendA.  It  is  emphatically  called 
•Yalenda  del  CSd,'  as  haying  been  the 
court  and  capital  of  that  ballad  hero. 

Sichta.— Oathedral,  Oolegio  del  Pa- 
triarca,  Minor  Ohnrchei^  honitk,  TTni- 
Teraity,  Picture  Gallery  (Muaeo),  Pri- 
TateHouaee^  etc 

CitlctriL  ffittarietd  A'Mca.— AU 
religions  haye  sought  to  erect  their 
principal  temples  on  the  site  of  those 
which  they  came  to  destroy,  and  here, 
as  in  almost  erery  city  in  Spain,  the 
present  Sta.  Maria,  Christian  church, 
rose  on  the  ruins  of  the  great  mosque, 
which,  in  turn,  was  erected  on  the  site 
of  a  temple  of  Diana,  dedicated  by  Pub. 
and  En.  Sdpio  to  that  goddess.  The 
present  cathedral  was  built  by  Bishop 
Fr.  Andrte  de  Albalat,  who  laid  the 
first  stone,  June  22,  1262.  It  was  con- 
siderably enlarged  by  Yaldomar  in 
1482,  and  was  modernised,  especially 
the  interior  and  portions  of  the  exte- 
rior, in  1760.  Its  popular  name  is  la 
Sto  (The  See),  and  it  is  one  of  the  few 
cathedrals  in  Spain  which  are  wanting 
in  intrinsic  interest  or  that  deriyed 
from  pictures  and  other  objects  of  art 

Style,  Proportions, — ^The  interior  is 
classical ;  the  exterior  mostly  belongs 
to  the  Qothio  of  the  18th  and  15th 
centuries ;  the  length  is  660  ft.,  and 
the  width,  taken  from  the  transept^ 
216  ft 

JBxUHor, — It  has  three  principal  por- 
tals. The  MigwleU  entrance  is  at  the 
foot  of  the  tower  de  San  Miguel,  and 
opposite  to  the  fine  street  de  Zaragoxa. 
The  tower  del  Micalet  rises  162  ft  high, 
but  was  intended  by  its  architect,  Juan 
Frank,  to  hare  been  860  ft  high.  It 
is  octagonal  in  plan ;  the  circumference 
is  equid  to  its  height  It  is  dirided 
into  four  stages,  the  lower  being  quite 
]dain,  and  ^e  upper  one,  or  belfry, 


enriched  with  elegant  crodketed  pedi- 
ments oyer  the  windows  and  panel* 
ling.  The  yiew  trcm  the  top  is  one 
of  tiie  most  striking  in  Spain  and  must 
not  be  omitted.  The  entrance  itself  is 
of  a  poor  hybrid  style,  Qotho-classical, 
and  none  at  aU.  ^le  statues  of  local 
saints  are  yery  indifferent^  the  best 
sculpture  here  being  the  reUeyo  repre- 
senting a  gloria  with  angels,  and  the 
Virgin's  monogram,  eta,  by  Ignado 
Yeigara.  Tht  Portal  de  lo$  ApoMeeiM 
Ogiyal,  with  figures  of  yirgins  and  sera- 
phims.  The  third  is  in  a  square,  not 
far  from  the  Archiepisoopal  Palaoe, 
and  called  del  Palan.  It  is  dreular, 
early,  and  curious.  Obserye  oyer  the 
door  fourteen  small  heads  sculptured  in 
a  row  under  the  oondoe,  half  male  and 
the  other  female  heads.  These  repre- 
sent the  seyen  knightswho  were  married 
to  young  women  of  seyen  neighbouring 
yillages,  and  constituted  the  ancestors 
of  Yalendan  nobility.  Obserye  slso 
the  rich  traceries  on  the  rose  window, 
the  gabled  canopy  oyer  the  arch,  and 
oyer  this  again  a  crocketed  pediment^ 
with  tracery  on  the  spandreU  It  is 
a  fine  work  altogether,  and  must  be 
ascribed  to  architects  of  the  14th  cen- 
tury. 

Interior. — Consists  of  three  nayes 
diyided  by  twenty-fiye  square  piers  with 
Corinthian  pilasters.  It  is  hcayy  and 
wanting  in  harmony.  The  dmborio 
and  transept  are  fine,  and  of  the  16th 
century.  The  noble  lantern  dates  1 404. 
The  lateral  nayes,  some  27)  ft  wide, 
go  round  the  high  chapel  and  form  in 
its  circular  termination  eight  small  cha- 
pels, ffigh  Chapel,  built  by  Arch- 
bishop Alfonso  de  los  Cameros  in  1682. 
is  all  of  precious  marbles.  The  formet 
altar,  of  silyer,  was  burnt  in  1408,  then 
restored,  to  be  again  melted  and  destroy* 
ed  by  the  French  in  1809.  Obserye 
carefully  the  fine  door  panels,  with  six 
pictures  by  Pablo  Ar^ggio  and  Fiances- 


484 


YALBNOIA — OATHEDRAL. 


00  Neapoli,  both  papOi  of  Leonardo  da 
Yinoi,  1605,  to  whom  they  are  ascribed 
bj  many  connoiaseon.  They  were 
painted  for  Bodrigo  Boigia  (Pope  Bor- 
gia, oelebrated  alike  for  hia  yioes  and 
splendid  protection  to  artists).  The 
saljeots  are  from  Life  of  Christ  and  the 
Virgin.  The  fresco  walls  are,  or  rather 
W9r$,  by  the  same  artists.  Here  the 
work  of  restanradon  has  been  sad  alsa 

Ooro, — ^The  njas  are  modem.  The 
walnut  stalls  are  classieal  and  plain. 
The  trtuoaro  is  decorated  with  fine  ala- 
baster scenes  from  Scripture,  in  alto- 
relieTO,  date  1466.  In  the  transaltor 
are  aflne  plateresqne  tomb  and  excellent 
ptfatiwl  idass. 

Chapdi. — These  are  mostly  of  no  in- 
terest Notice  only  OapiUa  de  San 
FiBdro,  where  part  of  the  old  grand 
rotable  is  kept  Oboerre  the  Sayioor 
by  Joanes,  and  Jesus  giving  the  keys 
to  St  Peter,  by  Palondno.  Over  the 
baptismal  font^  a  large  Joanes,  Baptism 
of  the  Sayioor.  Orer  the  door  of  one 
of  the  three  sacristies,  and  dose  to  them, 
obserre  two  fine  Ribaltas — Christ  mock- 
ed before  Pilate,  and  Christ  bearing  the 
Cross,  a  copy  of  Seb.  del  Piombo  now 
in  the  Madrid  Picture  Gallery ;  and  a 
Deposition,  by  Bellina  In  the  mcKf- 
UaiBA  Sayioor  and  Ismh,  by  Joanes, 
and  an  ezqoisite  Holy  Family  hj  Joanes. 
Joanea's  List  Sopper  is  finely  coloured, 
also  a  Conyersion  of  St  Paol,  by  Joanes^ 
a  gem,  and  on  each  side  of  It^  Sto. 
Tomas  de  Villanueya,  by  Joanes,  and 
£1  Beato  Ribera,  by  Bibalta,  a  good  St 
John  and  the  Lamb^  by  Antolines,  and 
a  St  Frauds,  by  same. 

7!ks  SeHeaHo  is  not  interesting. 
Here  is  one  of  the  numerous  authentic 
'santo  calls,'  said,  of  course,  to  be  the 
Tery  one  used  at  the  Last  Supper,  but 
it  is  fine  aa  a  piece  of  medisyal  silyer 
work ;  oboerye  the  pattern  also.  The 
temos  are  truly  magnificent^  some  of 
them  were  purchased  at  the  sale  of  St 


Paul's  (London)  Roman  Oathdic  oma- 
ments,  and  represent  subjects  fit>m  Life 
of  the  Sayiour ;  there  is  also  a  missal 
which  bdonged  to  Westminster  Abbey ; 
and  the  spurs  and  bridle  which  bdong- 
ed to  D.  Jayme  d  Conquistador,  and  of 
which  he  made  a  present  to  his  master 
of  the  horse,  Juan  Pertusa,  the  day  he 
entered  Ydenda. 

Ths  Chapter-room  dates  1858,  and  is 
▼ery  fine.  In  the  Altar  de  San  Migud 
is  a  Virgin,  small  but  beantiftil,  by  Saa- 
soferrato,  soft  and  exquisite.  In  the 
sala  capitular  is  a  fine  orudfix  caryed  by 
Alfonso  Cano,  and  most  authentic.  In- 
quire for  a  p<^trait  of  the  Priest  Agnedo^ 
by  Joanes. 

OapUla  de  San  iSifiaiMdM.— Seyenl 
Orrontes,  the  best  is  his  picture  of  the 
TuteUr. 

CapiUa  de  San  Fedro.—A  Christ 
with  Chalice  and  Wafer,  by  Joanes; 
Christ  Bearing  the  Cross,  by  Ribdta. 

Ohuroh  of  the  Ck>legio  de  Oorpua, 
or  del  Fairiarea.—A  classical  diureh 
founded  by  Archbidiop  Juan  Ribera  in 
1686,  and  finished  in  1605.  Thediapd 
is  a  noble  structure,  designed,  it  is  said, 
by  Herrera.  It  is  purposely  rendered 
dark  (the  Windows  are  small),  so  aa  to 
make  the  churdi  oerem<mie8  more  im- 
presdye ;  there  are  a  fine  sacristia  and 
good  dasrical  doisters. 

The  Piehirei. — But  the  great  and 
prindpd  attraction  here  is  the  i^etnre^ 
which  are  numerous,  mostly  originals, 
and  excdlent  examples  of  the  Vdendan 
school,  the  Ribaltas  especially  bdng 
humorous  and  magnifioent  In  the  first 
chapd  to  the  lett,  on  entering  is  the 
Sayiour  with  Saints  yidting  San  Vi- 
cente Ferrer  on  his  sick-bed,  a  master- 
piece of  Ribalta ;  good  colouring  grand 
compodtion.  On  Eigh  AUar,  a  superb 
Last  Supper,  by  Ribdta.  The  Judas 
in  the  foreground  is  the  portrdt  of  an 
ftTaoting  ^oemaker  by  whom  he 


VALKNCU— nOrURX-OALLERT. 


485 


constantly  pestered  for  payment  Most 
Yenetian-like  in  colouring.  The  effect 
of  chiaroscnro  is  wonderf oL  Over  this, 
bat  too  high  to  be  seen  well,  is  a  Holy 
Family  by  same.  The  two  pictures  on 
the  sides  of  the  altar,  representing  Ohrist 
Bearing  the  Gross  and  Ohrist  at  the 
Column,  are  ascribed  to  Juanes.  The 
fresco  cupola  represents  the  martyrdom 
and  miracles  of  the  tutelar,  by  Bartol- 
omi  Matarana,  and  is  indifferent  In 
the  sanctuary  is  a  fine  Espinosa,  repre- 
senting the  Martyrdom  of  St  Peter. 
In  the  relicario^  the  altar  is  painted  by 
Juanes.  Here  is  also  kept  a  fine  ivory 
Florentine  crudfiz,  which,  however,  is 
surpassed  by  the  admirable  one  in  the 
church,  which  is  among  the  finest  carv- 
ing in  Spain — the  workman  is  not 
known.  In  the  sala  capitular  are  kept 
four  good  pictures  by  Juanes  Stradanus. 
In.the  rector's  room  are  some  fine  pic- 
tures— ^vis.  Portrait  of  the  Founder  by 
Juan  de  Zarilkena ;  Ohrist  in  the  Gar- 
den of  Olives,  by  Ribalta ;  Christ  at 
the  Column,  by  same ;  Portrait  of  a 
Beata,  ditto ;  a  Ohrist  Bearing  the 
Oross,  by  Morales. 

N,B, — Ladies  are  allowed  to  visit 
only  the  chapel,  but  gentlemen  may,  on 
application  to  the  keeper,  enter  the  co- 
legio.  Tourists  should  by  no  means 
ne^eet  to  witness  in  this  chapel  the 
grand,  impressive,  though  theatrical 
ceremonies  on  every  Friday,  at  10  A.M. 

Santo  Tomas  delaOongregaoion.— 
The  only  attraction  here  is  a  magnifi- 
cent Leonardo  da  Vinci,  representing  a 
Virgin  and  Ohild.  The  li^t  is  bad. 
The  chief  merit  lies  in  the  colourings 
and  high  but  easy  finiAing 

Ban  Andres. — ^A  very  fine  plater- 
esque  portal,  the  interior  indifferent^ 
but  possesses  good  pictures  by  Ribalta, 
Vergara,  Orrente,  Camaron,  and  other 
wortiiies  of  the  Valendan  school. 

Stos.  Juanes. — A   Comoepcion  by 


Juanes,  which  he  produced  after  pre- 
paring himself  by  confession,  fasthig; 
and  prayer :  the  finest  Juanes  in  Val- 
encia ;  fine  Genoa  marbles,  carved  by 
Italian  artists,  and  frescoes  painted  l^ 
Palomino.  Over  hi^  altar,  a  grand 
Dead  Christy  by  Ribalta,  and  frescoes 
by  Camaron.  The  S&  Peter  and  Paul 
are  of  the  style  and  school  of  Espinosa. 
The  Churches  of  the  San  Esteban  and 
Sta.  Oatalina  were  formerly  mosques, 
so  was  El  Temple,  so  called  because  it 
once  belonged  to  tiie  Knights  Templars. 
Cfaaa  Natalieia,  where  the  popular  and 
much-revered  patron  of  the  town,  Saa 
l^cente  Ferrer,  was  bom,  was  situated 
Oalledel  Mar  No.  91 ;  the  site  of  which 
is  marked  by  an  oratorio. 

EUui  Nioolas.— A  museum  of  Juanes. 
His  best  are  Last  Supper  and  a  Head 
of  Christ,  behind  the  hijg^  altar.  The 
former  is  not  inferior  in  painting  to  the 
Purisima  Conoepcion. 

Picture  Oallery. — Open  from  9  A-M. . 
to  8  P.X.,  daily.  This  provincial  mnsec^ 
established  in  the  former  Ccmvent  del 
Carmen,  contains  600  or  700  pictures 
which  were  oolleoted  from  the  different 
convents  suppressed  in  1886,  in  the  pro- 
vince. It  is  the  third  largest  and  most 
important  in  Spain,  and  although  con- 
sisting chiefly  of  rubbidi,  possesses 
several  very  fine  specimens  of  the  Val- 
endan school,  which  is  alone  to  be 
studied  here.  (See  General  Informa- 
tion :  JPainttn.)  The  best  pictures  are 
placed  in  the  Sala  de  Juntas ;  the  rest 
are  to  be  hunted  about  the  galleries. 
As  usual,  the  catalogue  'esta  en  pivpa- 
radon,'  and  therefore  the  present  num- 
bers are  likely  to  undeigo  changes. 
The  Juanes  have  been  generally  spared 
by  the  greedy  restauradores.  The  Ri- 
baltas  have  not  escaped  so  well,  and 
are  over-varmshed. 


486 


VAIXNOU — ^FIOrURK-QALLBRT. 


(bon  1628 ;  di«d  1697). 

Voa.SS9,M4,S4e.  S*Tioiin»  inbif 
vnul  ityU^  and  Tarjiog  little  from  the 
well-known  etdtade.  The  Utter  of  the 
three  it  fomewhet  leddiah,  hat  theez- 
jffeMJnn  is  foil  of  diTine  loTe  end  gen- 
tleneHL  The  fint  two  exhibit  greet 
Yjgoor  and  delieeqr ;  thej  are  on  a  gilt 
ground,  which  giree  their  anperb  coloor- 
ing  great  relief  and  thej  are  so  min- 
nl^ J  fhiiahed  that  ereiy  hair  of  the 
beard  may  be  diatingniahed. 

286.  Aaramption  of  the  Virgin,  on 
a  yellow  baekgitNind.  The  angela  are 
admirable^  the  expreeiion  eqnallj  eo, 
and  the  oolomingalmoet  Venetian.  The 
Safionr'a  Head,  on  the  ri^t  of  the 
Queen  of  Spain'a  portrait^  ii  injured. 

San  Frandaoo  de  Paula  leaning  on  hia 
Stafi^  fbrmeilj  at  the  CouTent  de  loe 
Minimoa,  Tery  broadly  painted,  and  one 
of  hia  beat  hoe. 

JKteXto  (bon  i661 ;  died  leSS). 

418,  69.  Two  Virgfai&  The  latter 
haa  been  aaoibed  to  Vergara. 

Aaaumpcionox  tne  ViignL  ine  vir- 
gin and  Child  are  well  dimwn. 

San  Vicente  preaching.  The  attitude 
good,  and  ezpreaeion  ezceDent  For- 
merly at  Consent  de  Sto.  Domingo. 

San  Fnuiciaeo,  formerly  at  Conrent 
de  loe  Gapuchinoa, 

870.  St  Hibhael  eonquering  the 
DeriL  Said  to  be  in  imitation  of  Ouido'a 
•tyle;  finely  coloured. 

864.  Virgen  de  Porta OcbIL  <The 
ChiU,  and  a  head  to  the  left,  very  ex- 
quiaite ;  well  drawn  and  nice  colouring; 
but  the  featurea  of  all  the  figoree  are 
large  and  unintereating'  (HoaJdna). 

860.  San  Udro  (not  San  laidoro,  aa 
Mr.  Hoddna  haa  it).  Fine  ezpreaeioa 
of  peaaant^  aomewhat  uniform  in  colour. 

861.  St  Franda  embracing  Chriat 


upon  the  Croae,  icminda  one  of  ail  at 
moat  aimilar  anbject  by  KuriDo^  at  the 
Profindal  Picture-OaUety,  SeriUe ;  the 
edlouring  haa  become  too  dark. 

264.  AOuciflzion,byJuanBibalt^ 
much  iigured.  Thia  once  important 
paintini^  better  drawn,  perhape^  than 
cdoured,  waa  the  painter'a  work  when 
he  waa  only  eighteen  I 

268,266,  268,  260,  ifiptMMit  SS. 
John,  Paul,  Peter,  and  Bruna  'The 
fleah  Teiy  brown'  (Hoekina). 

220.  Ooronation  of  the  Virgin,  ez- 
finiahed.    Smallin 


EgfhuM  (bom  1600 ;  died  1680). 

112.  San  Lnia  Beltiaa.  Acairalier 
a  piatcd  at  thia  aaint^  who  hadra- 
proTed  him,  and  indebted  fSor  hia  life  to 
the  miraculoua  intenrention  of  God;  the 
image  of  C9iri8t  ianmig  fhmi  tiie  piatol'a 
barrel  inatead  of  the  belL  The  pic- 
ture, though  ii^ured,  poeaeeaea  moat 
of  the  qu^itiee  of  thia  painter— bold 
and  powerftil  drawing  Michael  Angd- 
eeijue  attitudea,  anatmny,  and  erprea< 
aion. 

878, 876.  The  Preaentatkm  at  the 
Temple  ia  the  beat 

420,  421,  428,  424.  lOrgin  and 
Angeli.    Euellent  drawing. 

270.  Communion  of  the  Magdalen, 
<  The  white  cloth  in  her  hand,  and  the 
head  and  garmenta  of  the  prieat,  are 
admiraMe'  (Hoekina).  The  prieat  ia  a 
portrait  of  the  eccleaiaatio  wlu>  ordered 
the  picture. 

280.  Jeeua  Bearing  the  Croea. 

414  and  42a  Seriea  of  paintingi  re- 
preeenting  the  hiatory  of  the  fint  Qtfii- 
tian  King  ;  injured,  but  atill  fine. 

100.  Tranafiguration.  Somewhat  in- 
jured, but  excellent 

Ormte  (bon  1660 ;  died  1644). 

160.  Sto.  Domingo.  A  aeene  from 
hii  life  which  repreeenta  the  aaint^  who, 
baring  called  to  life  a  man,  ia  accuaed 


YAIiENCU— PIOrUBS^LALLKBT. 


48T 


of  murder  and  exonerated  by  the  mur- 
dered man. 

Prooeaaion  in  honour  of  the  Yiigin. 
Yerjgood. 

ZarmmuL 

862.  A  Yligin,  St  John,  the  ICag- 
dalen ;  and  84&»  three  amall  paintingi, 
repreaenting  St  F^anda,  a  Biahop,  and 
a  St  Ghriatopher. 

206.  San  Jacinto  and  San  Loia. 

Borroi. 

78and74(in8a]AdeJQnta8).  Death 
of  St  Jerome,  beantifiil;  and  Flagella- 
tion of  the  Saint,  excellent  In  the 
catalogue  of  1850  ihe  former  ia  aacribed 
toHtfoh. 

297  to  814.  Hard  but  moat  cnriona. 
The  beat  are  Christ  on  the  Croaa,  and 
297>  Hell  and  Pnigatory. 

164.  Adoration  of  the  MagL 

288, 284.  St  Sebastian,  and  Christ 
Bearing  the  Croaa.  'The  Utter  the  beat, 
almoat  equal  to  hia  master,  Joanea' 
(Hoakinf). 

Fray  Antonio  de  ViUwMma  (bom 
1714). 

Seriea  of  pictniea  from  Life  of  St 
Franciaoo  de  Assis,  of  no  great  ralue. 

Oatpotr  do  la  Euorta  (bom  1646 ; 

died  1714). 
146.  Adoration  of  the  MagL  Power- 
fully drawn. 

Joo^do  Vorgara  (bom  1726). 
466,468,470.  Of  no.  great  merit 

Ch/nuwon» 
02.  Vision  of  a  Pedro  Paaoud^  Well 
eoloured. 
880.  YiigiA  and  Child.    Excellent 

SiAora, 

Of  thia  great  Yalencian  master  then 
ia  but  little  here. 

706.  In  Sala  de  Juntas,  to  the  right, 
k  a  fine  Martyrdom  of  San  Sebastian. 


The  Samta  Tonoa  is  ezoellent»  bnl 
haa  been  much  ntimtada, 

Mardi. 

Four  grand  batallaa,  powerftdly 
drawn  ;  great  moyement  and  life. 

19,6a  St  Jerome  and  St  PauL 
Ribera-like.  Aacribed,  the  fomiar  to 
Planea,  the  latter  to  QaaulL 

ViooiUoLopa, 

In  one  of  the  gidleriea,  440,  La  IHr- 
gen  de  la  Merced.  The  gronp  of  angels 
ara  portraita  of  hia  ohildien ;  the  eldeat 
aon  ia  actually  j^inior  cb  ouiiaftk 

Ooya, 

Adharming  portrait  of  a  lady,  all  life, 
freahneas,  and  eapafiolisma 

Ooromo  BooA  {SI  Boooo), 

Oboerre  the  three  curiona  ^ctorea, 
once  at  the  CouTent  de  Sto.  Domingo, 
representing  the  Crowning  with  Thoma, 
the  C9irist  at  the  Pillar,  and  Chriat  in 
the  Garden.  Theae.predoua  data  for 
the  yet-to-be-written  hiatory  of  carica- 
tore,  were  intended  to  ridicule  the  uaoal 
exaggerated  typea  represented  in  holy 
subjects. 

278.  Sta.  Tereaa,  by  Yaccaro,  aigned 
with  his  monograuL 

Inquira  for  the  interesting  CapilU  de 
la  Yida  (1879),  and  obaerre  the  charm- 
ing Yiigin  tilting  the  InfentDeity  to 

rei^ 

In  the  oocrdaria,  or  aecretary'aroom« 
notice  a  good  nnfiniahed  portrait  of 
Bayen,  by  Goya,  and  a  portrait,  alwby 
the  latter,  of  Satere^  the  great  Spaniah 
engraTer. 

The  tif  0  small  portraits  of  MnriUo 
and  Yelazques,  in  the  SaU  de  Juntas^ 
ara  ascribed  to  these  two  paintera  (f) 

262  haa  been  erroneoudy  aacribed  to 
Andrea  del  Sarto,  whoae  style  of  coloor- 
ing  haa  been  aimed  at  with  little  ano- 


48a 


YALDfOLi— PIOnnUtGALUBT. 


Then  if  BO  teaHptan,  except  a  good 
group  hy  YergjKn,  repreeentiiig  St 
Hkhael  deetnTing  the  DeriL  It  is 
eoloitred. 

0 

Tho  AoadmnU  do  Bon—  Artoe,  in 
tbo  ■ttno  loeilitj,  waa  eetaUiahed  by 
CSieriee  lU^  whoioe iti  appendage  'do 
San  Oarioa.'  The  pitpil%  who  number 
200  to  800,  are  allowed  to  atnd j  gratia. 

FHtoIo  Oonorioo. — Then  are  aere- 
ral,  aa  tho  Yalendana  were  alwaja  a 
poUte^  refined  people,  fond  of  art  al- 
ways and  at  one  lime  not  leaa  bo  of 
booka.    Theae  gaUeriea  majbeiiaited 
on  application  l^  writing  or  card. 
GdlerjofelSeftorXaOaKK&ti.* — 
St  Fnmei^  by  Zorbazan,  excel- 
lent 
Christ  and  the  Yizgin,  aacribed  to 

Mnrillo. 
Joamu, — ^Two  email  paintings  of 

Saints. 
Obmaffo.— St  John  and  the  Lamb. 
FnmeiKoHmrmnA  rt90.— Death 
of  St  Joeeph  ;  bold,  and  alto- 
gether Tory  fine. 
Lui»  Tristan,— 'A  prieat 
Oardued  (Ftncfiuio).— Christ 
AUmao   Ohio.— Christ  at  the  Co- 
lumn. 

Tm  ncura  Ifwxnny  bcfbra  onr  Saviour 
my  exqoisito,  aod  th«  compoiition  of 
thb  little  piclara  ynry  good.  (Hos- 
IdM.) 

Muriilo.'^Two  landscapes  with 
flocks  of  sheep,  signed. 

At  the  /Vtfiiio,  in  tiie  Qoremor's 
priTate  room%  there  are  also  some  pic- 
tores,  amongst  which  sereral  lUbaUai, 
Obeenre  especially  a  Deposition  and  a 
Replica  of  the  Museo's  Craoifizion  ;  a 
Cracifixion  by  BtpinoM  ;  a  good  Month; 
by  Joamn^  St  Jerome,  Sta.  Armonica, 
San  Francisco  de  Asda^  Sta.  Clara— 
Tory  highly  finished. 

Pieiwr§-aaUery€/0imd$d4  ViOanal 
—A  beantiAd  Joana,  representing  three 


snljeets-Tix.  '^igfai  and  Child,  St 
John  and  Erangelista.  St  Joseph  and 
St  Oadierine. 

Onmi  qf  Fanmts  CfaXUrif,^A,  ino 
StpkumOf  DepoaitioQ  from  the  Oroaa; 
faar  Battle  Scenea,  by  Joan  de  Toledo^ 
a  Yalendan  painter  (bom  Itfll) ;  a 
Sapper  at  Wmmans,  by  Bibalta. 

In  the  palace  of  Harqn^de  la  Bomana 
are  aix  excellent  Camarons^  and  aerenl 
Joanea'  andGoyaa. 

The  coUeetion  of  Seftor  Campo^  tiie 
Salamanca  or  Hndaon  of  Yalenda,  ia 
nnmerooa  and  good. 

Ito^Ja.— Thia  building  waa  raiaed  by 
Compte  in  148S,  on  the  eight  of  the 
Alcasar,  built  by  a  daughter  of  tho 
Moorish  king  Al-hakem,  and  which 
the  Cid  inhalHted.  It  is  Gothic,  and 
of  no  great  effect  In  the  interior  is  a 
spacious  noble  hall,  with  an  elegant 
entrancs^  180  feet  long  by  75  it  wide^ 
which  is  diirided  into  tl:^  naves  by 
most  elegant  fluted  spiral  Sdominio 
pillars,  of  which  only  ei^t  stand 
isolated.  The  uf^per  stage  of  tho  left 
wing  is  elaborately  decorated,  and  is 
terminated  by  a  striking  parapet^  with 
circular  medallions  enclosing  heads. 
The  general  eflect  of  the  edifice  is  most 
plea^Dg.  The  building  is  used  as  the 
Sflk  Exchanga  The  garden,  with 
shady  walks,  is  ftiU  of  orange-trees  and 
sweet-eoented  flowers^  and  canopied  by 
a  spotless  Uue  hearen.  This  is  an 
enriable  place  for  transacting  busineai^ 
combining  poetry  with  n^gocUm, 

The  AMdUnda  is  a  noble  building; 
spacious  and  lofty,  of  16th  century. 
In  the  halls  inside  are  a  series  of 
not  indifferent  portraits  of  Yalendan 
worthies. 

Aducma, — ^The  Oustom-House  dates 
1768.  It  ia  now  the  Fabrica  de  Cigar- 
roe,  employe  8500  women,  and  pro* 
ducea  about  120,000  Iba.  of  tobaooa 
Permission  is  granted  by  the  director 
toTisitit 


YALKNOLL 


489 


The  tXXk-mimvvifiuiwnn  are  actlTe, 
•nd  aome  800,000  Ibt.  are  yearlj  pro- 
dnoed,  with  which  yelrett  and  oth«r 
stuffii  are  made.  The  aOk  produced  in 
thia  hot  climate  Ib  Tery  fine  and  delieate^ 
bat  the  atofia  are  inferior  in  woriunan- 
ahip  to  Lyona  and  Sn^^d,  and  are 
notlaating. 

Iiibrariea.— The  FvJtiUc  lAbrwry  of 
the  Uniyeraity  oonaiata  of  40,000  Tola. 
A  Talnable  collection  of  Biblea,  early 
editiona  of  the  Fathera  of  the  Chnrch ; 
an  excellent  and  predona  collection 
of  booka  of  chiyal^  worthy  of  Don 
Quixote;  a  rery  early  edition  of 
Tirant  lo  Blanch;  the  Poem  of  La 
Concepdon  de  la  Yiigen,  printed  in 
1474.  It  is  also  Tery  rich  in  editiona 
of  16th  century.  Open  daily  from 
0  ^.M.  to  1  P.M. 

Biblicieea  del  AnMspado, --Tht 
palace  was  formerly  a  corn-exchange. 
The  chapel  contains  aome  good  pic- 
tures. The  library  poaaeases  10,600 
vols. ;  open  from  9  to  12  a.m.,  and 
three  hours  in  the  afternoon ;  admit- 
tance gratis.  See  the  few  but  raluable 
MSS.  which  have  been  aared  bom  the 
fire  in  1812.  The  fine  private  library 
of  Sefior  D.  Vicente  Salvi  numbers 
8000  vols.,  and  possesses  some  curious 
MSS.  and  excellent  specimens  of  old 
Spanish  binding. 

Frivftte  Houaoa.— We  recommend 
the  ia^e  of  house  of  Marqu^  de 
Dos  Aguaa  (Gasade  laa  Rocas)  for  its 
excellent  sculpture,  though  it  borders 
on  the  churrigueresque ;  that  of  Conde 
de  Pinohermoao,  La  Bomana,  and  the 
earlier  onea  here  and  there  in  Calle  de 
Gaballeroa.  The  artist  should  not  hH 
to  visit  the  Mercado  at  eight  in  the 
morning,  Plasa  de  Sta.  OataUna,  the 
portion  or  barrio,  N.E.,  between  the 
Puertas  del  Mar  and  del  Beal. 

Oardens,  Promenadea,  Theatres. 
— There  ara  aome  very  pretty  gardens 
in  the  environi^  interesting  for  speci- 


mens of  African  and  American  plants 
which  grow  here  with  all  the  luxuri- 
ance of  their  native  dimes.  Yidt, 
especially,  Bl  Botamieo,  now  bdonging 
to  a  German  banker  at  Madrid,  Mr. 
Ettling;  that  of  the  IT^vatvOy  (a  card 
of  director  required);  of '  La  Boca,'  in 
OaUe  Odradis  de  loa  Sastres ;  of  D. 
Andr4s  Sancho,  of  Count  de  Parsent^ 
Campos^  etc  The  Jardin  de  U  Beina 
isthebest;  seen  on  Thursdayswith  card 
of  Sr.  Intendente  dd  Beal  Patrimonio: 
orange-treea  are  seen  here  in  all  their 
splendour. 

The  moat  faahionable  paseo  in  Win- 
ter is  the  Alameda,  from  8  to  6  p.m., 
N.E.  of  the  dty,  between  two  bridgea 
on  the  Tnria,  driving  and  walking. 
The  drivings  or  rather  standing,  of 
Tartanas  in  a  row,  leading  to  open-air 
tertulias,  is  quite  a  ai^t  The  summer 
promenade  ia  the  charming  Qlorieta, 
from  0  to  11  P.M.,  where  the  band  plays. 
It  Ib  laid  out  with  box,  orange-treea,  and 
palma. 

The  Yalendans  are  very  fond  of 
cock-fighting  and  pigeon-shooting  so 
amateurs  may  expect  aome  '  amuse- 
ment at  the  Feehiria  on  Thursdays, 
and  Reliidero  de  Gallos  in  the  Llano  de 
Is  Zaidia,  on  Thursdays  and  Sunday 
afternoons.    ' 

The  Plasa  de  Toros  is  one  of  the 
finest  in  Spain,  and  was  built  1860. 
The  corridss  here  are  excellent,  the 
Yalendans  being  fond  of  everything 
that  leads  to  fight,  blood,  and  death. 
Thdr  gesticulations,  thdr  exdtement 
at  theaa  speotades,  are  very  local 
'Mare  Deu  1'  ' Becontrapacho  de  c,' 
and  other  aimilar  'deaahogos^'  fill  the 
air. 

ir,B, — Excellent  duck-shooting  at  La 
Albufera.    See  bdow. 

Thaatrea.— Two  good  theatrea.  The 
Teatro  Prindpal  is  the  moat  fashion- 
abl^  datea  1832;  operas,  nrguelsa^ 
dramas^  good  companiea ;  ladiea'  toil- 


490 


YALKNGLL 


ettn  «re  'en  eridenoe.'  Teatro  de 
U  FrinoMi,  on  the  site  of  s  OooTent 
de  U  Ponded,  detes  186S ;  eomediei^ 
denoei^etc.  There  i%  betidee,  s  hi^fio- 
drome^  etc. 

Greet  Holidejew— The  prindpel  ie 
m  Die  de  Sea  Y  iceIlt^  the  tateler  of 
Velende^  The  5th  of  April,  his  bep- 
tism,  is  oommemortted  with  dressed 
cheiteter%  ete.  The  mindes  of  the 
saint,  which  ere  represented  in  the 
streets  during  his  '  Norenerio,'  most  be 
etndied  for  their  medijBYal  cherscter. 
The  prindpel  most  then  be  eon^t  et 
Mercedo  Orende^  Fleza  de  le  Congre- 
gMkm,  Froe  sit,  etc  The  prooesdon 
dd  Corpos  is  rtrj  fine  end  ohenus- 
teristic. 

Direeior  y »— iAwutiie.  ~~  xi.  jj,jm,  •  — ~ 
Charles  Barrie,  Eeq.,  Calle  dd  Tomo 
de  San  Cristobal  Na  5.  Framee — 
M.  Ed.  Fleniy,  Plaza  de  las  Barcas 
Ka  28.  AuiirUk—J),  Mariano  Bojo^ 
Odle  de  Caballeroe  Na  50.  Belgium 
—Henry  Trenor,  Eeq.,  Odle  dd  Trin- 
quote  de  Caballeroe  Ko.  8.  PnuHa — 
p.  Vicente  Ferrer,  of  Bartual,  Cdle 
Tomo  de  Sen  Cristobd  Na  2. 

IJ^MOwrt.— Messrs.  Trenor,  CalleTrin- 
quote  de  Caballeroe  Na  8,  an  dd- 
establidied  English  house ;  Messrs. 
Whiter  Llano^  and  Monand. 

Jfon^  Cftoiiper.— Calle  dd  Mar  Na 
81. 

/>N<ori.— Dr.  Battik ;  speaks  Eng- 
lish and  has  redded  in  England  ;  he 
cannot  be  too  highly  recommended. 
There  is  also  a  French  doctor.  Roncal, 
Plasa  de  la  Constitudon,  is  a  good 
apothecary. 

AMteOiiu— Malleu ;  AguOsr,  Calle 
dd  Mar;  Odweriso  in  Celle  de  San 
Vicente. 

JBqMlMpfiiuitfria. -:  Ferment,  Calle 
dd  Mar,  and  by  Lopei's  steamers. 

Fmfvmm  amd  JSToMnMNr.— Tiifon, 
48  Calle  dd  Mar. 

AlbaetU  Knfim  amd  Dn^yen.— Good 


specimens^  half-a-yardloQ^  for  40r.,may 
be  had  in  shops  in  Odle  de  San  IHeente. 

iSV£bt.— Puchals  y  SantakH  Plea  de 
San  Lorensa 

Mamtaa  Fafmeitmai.'^Thmt  Tsrioos- 
cdoured  Orientd  plaids  or  blankets  era 
often  porcheeed  for  door-hangingi^  aofas, 
eta  The  best  shop  is  Vicente  La- 
jam's,  Calle  Loiga  dd  Acdte  (which 
eee  m  pamuU^  near  the  market  A 
good  ordinary  manta,  induding  tswfli, 
may  be  bou^t  for  70r.,  the  laigeet  and 
best  to  be  had  for  $8  a80r)  •  it  must 
then  be  of  the  stuff  called  tda  d»  la 
roao.  The  fHnge  is  called  d  JUeo,  and 
the  tssselstfd  work  d  goto.  They  can 
be  eent  from  the  shop  to  liTerpool,  cost 
little,  and  are  f^  of  duty,  but  pay  in 
France.  The  blue  MoreUana  blankete 
are  much  cheaper. 

AmU^09  are  Tory  wdl  made  here ; 
Tidt  the  fabrics  at  Manises,  a  Tillage  in 
theenTirons. 

LoeoU  JetMZf .— Vidt  the  Plateria,  for 
the  locd  ear-ringswomby  the  peesantry, 
who  formerly  wore  predous  stones  of 
great  ydue;  some  may  still  be  eeen, 
but  are  &8t  disappearing.  Obeerrn  the 
different  diapee  de  mvo,  de  tiuMito,  de 
bareo,  the  silTer-gilt  comb  {la  pimiela), 
etc. 

Oraaces.— Theee  are  sold  outside  the 
gatee  for  a  mere  song^  and  in  the  Mer- 
cedo for  Ir.  to  2r.  a-donn.  They  ere 
placed  orer  a  hoop,  and  thoee  that  fdl 
through  are  left  adde.  They  are  ex- 
quidte.  Mdons  and  sandias  are  here 
in  their  natiTC  land.  Obeenre  how  they 
are  piled,  how  weighed.  The  Valendan 
declaree  he  sees  three  uses  in  a  sandia 
(water-mdon)  eetinft  drinking  and 
washing  his  fSMse. 

On  Thursday,  at  18  o'dock,  tourists 
should  not  fidl  to  witness  the  dtting  of 
the  Tribunal  de  las  Agues,  under  the 
porch  of  the  cathedral,  and  which  de* 
ddoi,  without  i^ped  on  all  mattan^ 
I  disa^reementi^  etc.,  connected  with  the 


YALKNOIA— XZCUBSIOMB. 


491 


distribation  of  water  for  iingfttioii  c^the 
Hnerta.  It  Is  composed  ni  seyen  Sin* 
dicos  elected  by  and  among  the  horte- 

lanoe  themaelTee.    This  canons  demo- 

* 

eratic  institntion,  which  has  always 
exercised  a  salntaiy  inflnenoe,  was 
estshlished  by  the  Moors,  and  has  been 
respected  by  ereiy  Qoremment. 

Bzotirsions  to  Murriedro^  BoigMot» 
Lake  of  Albnfe^^  eta 

Mnrriedro.— By  rail,  Ist  6L,  12r.  ; 
2d  cL,  8r. ;  8d  cL,  5r.,  including  re- 
turn ;  time,  1}  hr&;  three  trains  a-day. 
Station  of  CMtellon  (Barcel<ma),  and 
Yalenda  railway.  Antiquaries  should 
not  leave  Valencia  without  Tinting  the 
site  and  ruins  of  Saguntum.  Inn — 
Parador  de  Diligenciaa  Population, 
6900  inhabitants  ;  on  the  Palenda,  and 
once  a  seaport,  but  the  sea  gradually 
retiied  3  m.  fStfther.  In  the  space  bo- 
tween  the  shore  and  the  town,  ezcaya- 
tioQS,  pureed  without  funds,  method, 
or  intelligent  direction,  turn  up  now 
and  then  Roman  remains  of  ralue  and 
interest  It  is  a  yiigin  land  of  ruins, 
worthy  of  a  Botta  or  a  Layard,  but,  in 
the  words  of  Longfellow,  is  truly  past 
here  and  '  cannot  come  back  again ; ' 
and  oneof  thefinest  mosaics  in  the  world, 
found  out  by  chance  in  1795,  as  the 
Ostalufia  road  was  undergoing  repairs, 
has  disappeared,  perierB  rvinmt  It  was 
24  ft.  long  by  12  ft.  wide,  and  repre- 
sented Bacchus  riding  a  tiger  and  hold- 
ing the  thyrsus^  amid  wine-growen^ 
bacchantes,  etc  The  modem  town 
(Murriedro  is  deriyed  from  muHseforsf^ 
ffttuvt  vi^)  is  miserable,  and  silent, 
as  befits  the  tomb  wherein  sleep  the 
glory  of  Bome  and  the  bones  fA  genera- 
tions of  heroes.  iSSo^wiiiMifi  was  founded 
by  the  Greeks  of  Zante.  Its  si^  by 
Hannibal  can  only  be  compared,  for  the 
heroism  of  the  inhabitants,  to  those  of 
Jerusalem,  Numantia,  and  modem 
Zaragoa.     The  town  succumbed,  but 


was  the  cause  of  the  second  Punic  war/ 
It  was  rebuilt  by  the  Romans,  and  was 
much  celebrated  for  its  edifices^  strong 
position,  its  mint— which  struck  twenty- 
seren  different  coins— its  Uieatre,  and 
red  pottery,  the  calices  Saguntini  of 
Martial  (xri  108). 

The  principal  mins  ars  :  —  Thm 
Theatra,  on  a  slope  abore  the  town. 
It  belongs  to  the  Tuscan  order  of  sichi- 
teotuie,  and  is  built  with  smsU  bluish 
stones,  beautifully  cemented,  so  as  to 
appear  like  huge  entire  blocks.  It  is 
ascribed  by  some  antiquaries  to  the 
Sdpios,  by  others  to  the  Smperor 
Chmdius  Oermanicus.  It  is  perhaps 
the  best  presenred  specimen  that  can  be 
seen  anywhere^  not  excepting  Italy.  All 
the  principal  cUstributions  of  the  Roman 
tiieatre  are  extant — the  scenium,  pro- 
scenium, postcenium,  choru%  and  or- 
chestra ;  tiie  thirty-three  tiers  of  grees 
(gradus)  on  which  the  spectators  sat  and 
stood,  the  especial  entrances  for  the 
kni^ts,  magistrates,  people,  women, 
etc.    It  could  easily  hold  1200  persons. 

Oastillo.— Here  ars  traces  of  Sagun- 
tine  walls,  serring  as  foundations  for 
subsequent  Roman  woiks,  upon  which  ^ 
tiie  Moors  haye  built,  and  then  the 
Spaniards,  strata  and  substrata  of  the 
oonrulsions,  revolutions,  primary,  secun- 
dary,  tertiary  periods  of  Spain  histori- 
cal, alike  almost  in  formation  to  those 
which  geologists  show  us  in  the  earth. 
The  citadel  occupies  the  site  of  the 
Saguntine  keep^  and  the  castle  that  of  a 
Rcmian  temple.  Here  the  trareller's 
attention  is  drawn  to  a  wonderful  echo^ 
which  beats  in  sonorousness  and  extent 
an  the  lions  of  Switserland,  SaToy,  and 
Ireland  ;  and  eren  traer  than  some  in 
tiie  latter  country.  There  ars  a  few 
mutilated  fragments  of  sculpture  in  the 
gobemador's  rooms.  The  riews  from 
the  castle  ars  extensiTe,  but  the  scene 
is  one  of  desolation  and  ne^ect  The 
Oimu  MaoBimMi  has  almost  all  dis^ 


493 


YALKNOIA — ^KXCUBSION& 


petnd,  and  orehiidsftnd  weedi  entomb 
theraina. 

To  BwtgatoL — ^A  ikToorita  fmnmer 
retort  of  the  Velenclani  on  the  rood  to 
Tungona;  diligeneet  daily.  The 
onlj  attracdona  are  the  Mo^riah  mas- 
maria^  or  caTea,  where  the  eom  was 
and  ia  atOl  pieaeiied  aa  in  granariei^ 
free  from  damp^  rata,  inaeetSy  and  man. 
The  local  name  ia  Sichea,  the  Spaniah, 
Siloa;  thej  nomher  foTt]r-one  alma- 
cooea  or  crjptai  yerj  deep^  Terj  apaciona 
nnder  groiuid,  andeorered  bjraUack 
and  hhie  jaaperpaTement^  which  aerrea 
aa  a  paaeo^  uid  from  whidi  the  view  of 
Valencia  and  aorroonding  orchaida  ia 
fine  and  pleaaant ;  th^  can  hold 
22;S70  eahicea  of  com. 

To  Bl  Orao.—Bj  rail  SfuL,  in  a  few 
minntea  ;  doring  the  aeaaon,  traina 
leare  and  come  back  ererj  half-hoar, 
fSnr  Sr.,  2r.,  and  Ir.  A  pleaaant  drire 
in  s  tartana  for  lOr.  El  Orao  {Orado^ 
Oradm,  tUpt  to  the  8ea)~27M  inha- 
bitanta.  The  summer  lonnge  of  the 
Yalendana,  who  come  for  aea-bathing 
in  the  Oaba&al,  where  decent  Alqnerias 
maj  be  hired  bj  the  month  on  mode- 
rate terma.  A  good  hotel  daring  the 
aeaaon,  and  at  all  timea  a  well-proridcd 
Kngiiah  grocery  ahop^  kept  by  Dake, 
whm  aodk-water,  ale%  batter,  etc.,  can 
be  had.  The  port  ia  not  completed, 
bat  worka  on  a  conriderable  acale  are 
going  on  to  enlarge  it,  and  two  piers 
are  to  prolong  the  Maelle.  The  Tem- 
porado  de  los  Ba&oa  ia  rery  gay,  and 
Madrileniana  flock  thither  hj  thoa- 
aanda.  The  baths  are  thatched  with  rice- 
atraw,  and  are  rery  aaperior  to  any  on 
that  coaat,  bat  the  water  to  Englishmen 
will  appear  lakewarm.  Boats  from  and 
to  steamers,  a  tariff,  4r.  each  person  ; 
2r.  for  a  portmanteau,  etc. 

7>  Lmkt  if  Athmfnnm.—'Bf  nSl  (ValeocM 
aad  IfjKlrid  lat)  lo  u  £u>  as  SiUm,  which  b 
doM  to  the  hks,  ij  luL,  k  aj  ■>•  («•*!  trata), 
^  Sr*  39C*  :  4^.  3C  etc.  Thk  great  bgooo, 
erhadi  HHMt  eoeM  day  or  odier  be  dried  op  for 


IS  ft.  betac  its  gieateet  depth.  Vhm 
houn  are  leQuiicd  lo  go  rouad ;  5&  hoon  by 
thelaiMijMle.aadiibo««bythetca«de.    It 

i^OB  theS., 

iefedby  the  TWiaaMfAccqakdellUy.  It 
to  the  Cbades  de  Las  Tones, 
given  to  Godoy  (Principe  de  k  Pte), 
Mv  is  the  property  of  the  Omm.  SndKt, 
in  stia,  was  aaide  by  Napoleon  Dnc  de 
rAtbufers,  after  the  captors  of  Valencia. .  It 
was  at  that 

Toe  ugooo  fiOs  up  n  wiiiter«  and  then 
a  wondeiftU  preserve  of  fiih  and  wiU  fcwL 
There  are  upwards  of  seventy  sorts  oi  nrds 
who  bred  in  the  reeds  and  biMh»  and 
Myriads  that  the  heaven  is 
by  their  fiigfat;  wild  docks,  wild  geese,  die 
fyf^  etc,  are  Bost  sbundant 
The  dehesa  Ulweca  the 
with  gslHnrfs*  (woodcocks),  rabbits,  cSc.  On 
ixtfa  and  ssth  November  Aooring  and  fishing 
are  allowed,  when  500  or  600  boats  skim  die 
water,  and  the  agoe-stricken  fiumers  living  in 

4ftftMi.  Besides  thcM  public  days,  shoociag 
permits  are  sometimes  granted,  by  applying  to 
Tnfcndmfe  del  Real  Patriamoio,  at  Valencia. 


sobre  la  Hiitona  Nat.,  Geogr.  Agric,  Pbbla- 
don  y  Fnitos  dd  Rcino  de  Valencia,*  by 
Joseph  CavaniDes ;  Madrid,  Imprenta  Real,  s 
fid.  vols,  with  prints.  The  aotbor  was  one  of 
the  most  illostrious  Spanidi  boCanists.  The 
antiqaities  here  are  well  evsminH,  and  the 
inibimation  to  be  derived  great  and  reliable. 

a.  '  Discrtacion  Historica  de  la  Feslividad  y 
ProcesioB  dd  Corpus,*  at  Valencia ;  t  iplsining 
the  symbols,  /cmt,  etc. ;  most  curious  and 
interesting^  by  Mar.  Ortk;  Valencia,  Oqga, 
x7i9,4to. 


by  AhriBana,  y  Bokmll  y  Broci  ; 
Arisy  Tumet,  1849,  s  vols.  4to. 

s.'Diilogo  sobie  los  Bancs  Antignos  de 
Tknagooa,'  by  Fognec,  MS.  EtaMishes  the 
difference  between  the  Barros  Tamcooeaaes 
and  those  of  Morviedro,  as  Spanish  aatiqnn* 
ries  osuaOy  give  the  mune  of  Soguatinos 
to  aD  those    prodnced  doring   the 


3.  -  rnsertadoB  sobre  Barros  y  AUuerias  de 
Tarragona  en  tiempo  de  los  Roamnoa,'  by 
Cons  de  Pbsada,  Ibl  MS.  Acad.  HiMory 
(X067),  with  sooM  700  marks  and  signs  of  the 
&brics,^&ni:bm^esc    FaB  of 


VALLADOUD. 


493 


PMtt  (ICooMtery  bmt  Tanagoaa).  —  t. 
'  P^>blet,  m  Origea,  Fimdacion,  BeOecM,'  etc, 
by  A.  de  Bofitfull  j  Brock ;  Tanagowi,  Ant. 
Boiz,  1848,  Sro. 

Ttnttl*'—^t*  ^/M  AnMuites  (M  Xsrady  cpopcjTft 
tragic^*'  by  Yaque  d«  Sabs ;  Yaknda,  Mey, 
i6i<f^  Sto. 

a.  '  NoCidaa  historicas  aobre  Im  Amantcs  de 
Teniel,'  by  AntOlon;  Ifadiid,  FotnteMbro, 
1806,  8to. 

3.  Histom  de  Im  Aaumtes  de  Terad,  000 
docomencot  josttficataTot,' ^c.,  by  GabanU; 
Valencia,  Oiga,  x84a,  Sro. 


^4y»r«r.— '  AntigOedad  de  la  IgL  Cktod.  da 
Segccbe,'  by  Villagnaa,  Valencia ;  VOIagnaa, 

'  Jn tfWMwrv.^i.  Deicfipcioo da  Tcatro  Sar 
guntmOy  by  Dean  ICait^  inaefted  by  I^na  in 
▼oL  iv.  of  hie  *riMge  de  EepaBa.' 

a.  '  DiMrtadoa  aobca  d  Teatro  y  Grco  da  la 
Gndad  de  Sagunto  ahoim V.  de  Manriedro^'by 
Paloi^  Navano ;  Valencia,  FaoU^  1793,  410.  A 
print 

3.  'Viage  afquitectomco  da  K^wJia,  d 
Deacripdon  dd  Teatro  SagvnCiao,'  by  Oitis ; 
Madrid,  Inqiienta  Real,  foL,  ttx  prints,  1807. 


VALLADOLID. 


The  Ancient  capital  of  Oastile.  Capitil 
of  proTinoeof  samename;  bishop's  lee, 
sofinigKi  of  Toledo;  pop.  48,861  (1861.) 

Boutai  and  CtonTOTanoes.  —  (8u 
cAort)  Fnm  Madrid  by 
nO;  distttioe,  U2  kSL; 
'time,  6  his.  50  m.;  fares^ 
Ist  oL,  97r.;  2d  cL,  72r.  76o.;  three 
trains  a-day.  N,B, — The  express  has 
only  1st  class  as  far  as  Bmgos^  then  Ist^ 
2d,  and  8d  are  admitted.  Korthem 
line  station  at  Madrid.  (See  for  details 
of  Inggage-tickets  on  this  line,  Madrid 
amd  Bt^fcnne,)  For  information  re- 
specting the  route,  see  Madrid  fnm 
Bayonne, 

Jtrom  Bayonne  hj  rail. — Bayonne 
to  Iron,  Franoh  sendee  and  Paris: 
honrs^  1  hr.  15  m^  8  trains  a-day; 
fares,  4L  25c,  8f.  20o.  U.  85c.;  dis- 
tance, 284  i>^  Then  leare  by  Spanish 
sendee  and  Madrid :  honrs^  Iron  to 
Yalladol^  12  hrs.  20  m.  (maU),  four 
trains  ;  889  kit ;  £ues,  1st  cL,  17lr. 
50c.;  2d  cL,  128r.  50c;  8d  oL,  77r.  50c 
Buffets  at  Miranda,  Bnrgoe,  and  Bafioc 
(See  for  details,  Madrid  fnm  ^oyitmiM.) 

ITrom  Burgos,  by  rail,  line  from 
Bayonne  to  Madrid;  time,  8  hrs.; 
distance,  121  klL ;  fans,  47r.  50c,  etc 

Trom  Iieon,  Oriedo,  Vice,  Oo- 
mna,  etc,  see  thoee  names. 

From  Salamanca.  To  Medina  del 
Oampo^  by  diligence  (see  Salamamai), 

Ttom.    Salamanoa,   hj  Zamora» 


whence  by  rail,  8i  honrsi    line^  Mad- 
rid to  Bayonne 

Biders  may  go  12  leagues 
by  Oslsada,  Cnbo^  and  Oor- 
^rsles,  to  Zamora,  by  rail  to 
Medina  del  Gampo,  84 ;  2  tiainsa-day; 
following  most  of  the  route  below :— 

fetit  ■■■  ■  III! 

Selamanca  to  Foente  Saoeo* 


» 


n 


M 


** 


Tolo    . 

Vniaerta 

Toideiaias 

Siiaancae 

VaUadolid 


16  hoim,  t4pi»  3a 

Farea  between  ZanMm  and  VaUadolid,  beri., 
8or. ;  mL,  tot.  ;  n^kt,  tfor. 
Tordeaillaa    and    VaUadolkl, 
beri.,  3ar.;  int.,  aSr.;  inip.,a4r. 
Sinuttcas  and  VaUadolkl,  bed^ 
Mr. ;  bt.,  tar.;  iap^,  lor. 

Description  of  Bont«.— This  route 
is  interesting  only  to  those  who  wish  to 
Tisit  Spanish  towns  now  utterly  de- 
cayed, but  whose  associations  with  the 
early  and  medinral  Spanish  history 
render  them  the  olject  of  the  artist's 
and  historian's  pOc^imagc  The  road 
is  fair  enou^  The  diligences  neither 
worse  nor  better  than  they  generally 
are— bad  enou^  to  make  us  appreciate 
railways,  and  sufficiently  good  to  be  pre- 
ferred to  stumbling  jacas. 


*  From  Salamanca  to  Zamora.  is  L  by  diL  y 
bn.  6or.:  from  Zamora  to  VaUadolid,  9  hn. 


494 


YALLADOLID — BOVTES. 


Zamonk — ^Inm  :  Potada  de  U  Mo- 
ren,  del  Peto,  ete^  all  wretched.  Popa- 
lation,  8880.  A  rerj  Andent  city,  pro- 
bablj  tlie  OeeUmn  duri  of  the  Roman 
Itineraiy,  the  eje^  the  cap  of  the 
Doero ;  the  actual  name  la  aaid  to  be 
the  Mooriah  SamoriLh  {Ardbieif  tor- 
qndaea).  Othera  contradict  thia.  Be 
thia  aa  it  may,  thia  dty,  being  oond- 
dered  an  important  military  podtion, 
and  the  kej  of  Leon,  waa  atronglj 
fortified  by  OaatiHane  and  Moors,  and 
the  object  therefore  of  aereral  degee 
and  battlea.  Al-Mannaoiir,  the  Attila 
of  the  Moors,  destroyed  it,  radng  it, 
mar$  tw,  to  tlie  ground ;  bat  achieving 
thia  not  without  reaiatanoe,  which 
went  ao  far  aa  to  deaerre  the  proyerb^ 
*i  Zamora  no  ae  gan6  en  una  hora' 
(985).  Zamora  waa  rebuilt  by  Ferdi- 
nand I.,  about  the  middle  of  the  11th 
century.  It  waa  near  its  walla  that 
YeUido  Dolfoa  waa  murdered,  October 
7,  1072,  when  the  dty  waa  boieged  by 
Don  SMicho,  and  it  waa  here  that  the 
five  Mooriah  kings  brought  him  tribute 
and  aaluted  him  with  the  title  of  the 
Champion  Prince,  Gid  (Sdd)  Cam- 
peador. 

SightawThe  CkUhedral,  under  the 
adTOcation  of  the  Transfiguration  of  the 
Lord,  ia  Byzantine,  and  datea  from  the 
Cid'a  own  time.  Obaenre  the  S.  en- 
trance, the  truncated  tower  and  arches, 
the  cartels  of  the  pillara,  the  rpae-win- 
dowa,  dmborio^  and  dome.  The  re- 
tablo  ia  fine,  of  alabaster,  with  red 
Jaaper  {rfllara  and  bronze  ornaments  ; 
the  subject  is  the  Assumption,  and 
abore  ia  the  statue  of  the  Redeemer 
opening  Hia  arma  to  GUa  mother  and 
to  mankind.  The  stalla  date  1490, 
and  are  Tedeaque  in  atyle,  and  elabo- 
ratdy  carred.  Among  other  tombs 
that  of  Bemardua,  the  first  bishop 
(1149) ;  near  the  door  that  of  the  con- 
fessor of  Ferdinand  I.,  Bishop  Pedro 
(1254) ;   an  early  retablo   with   very 


early  pictures,  ascribed  by  some  to 
Fernando  Qallegos^  in  CapUla  de  8an 
Miguel,  are  worth  doae  examination. 
The  cloisters  of  1591  were  modernised 
when  partly  rebuilt  in  1621. 

La  MoffddUna,  of  the  12th  century, 
belonged  to  the  Templars^  and  ia aireiy 
fine^  perfect,  and  wdl-presored  example 
of  that  atyle. 

Among  pront-Uts  we  may  adeet  the 
Plaza  de  loa  Momoa,  for  its  quaint 
houses;  the  ruins  of  Do&a  Unaca'a 
palace^  built  at  the  extreme  point  of  the 
dty  (Do&a  Unaca  was  the  daughter  of 
Ferdinand  L,  who  granted  Zsmora  to 
her,  in  1065) ;  the  wUU,  biahopric,  and 
doae  to  the  latter  the  ruins  of  a  house 
in  which,  $$  diee^  lodged  the  Cid.  We 
shall  merdy  mention,  for  the  aake  of 
ecdedologists,  thenamea  of  thechurchea 
of  San  yicent^  San  Miguel,  and  Sta. 
Maria  de  la  Horta. 

Tore  7000  inhabitants,  on  the 
Duero,  and  in  the  8.  extremi^  of  that 
boundleas  plain  called  Tierra  de  Cam*' 
poa,  the  granary  of  Spain  and  riTal  of 
Sicily ;  a  name  of  which  it  would  be 
worthy  were  it  better  cultirated,  mors 
densdy  peopled,  and  the  roada  im- 
proTcd.  Thia  Tery  andent  town,  now 
decayed,  with  but  a  few,  and  thoae  not 
yeiy  interesting  edifices  (such  aa  Torre 
dd  Rd4  houae  de  los  Fonaecaa,  and 
Byzantino-Gothic  Colegiata),  has  i^yed 
an  important  part  in  Spanish  hiatory. 
It  waa  often  the  reddence  of  the  kinga 
of  Castile,  and  the  acene  of  trsgic  erents, 
the  occurronce  of  which  is  so  firequent 
in  the  annals  of  medi»Tal  Castilian  hia- 
tory. Here,  for  instance,  it  was  that 
Alfonao  XL  sssssmnsted  the  Inlante 
Don  Juan  (1827) ;  here  that  Don  Pedro 
d  Crud  and  hia  rird  brother  came  in 
turn,  reigned  acme  days,  and  were  done 
homage  ta  The  Cortes  were  often  as- 
sembled here,  and  enacted  that  code  of 
munidpd  laws  and  regulationa  that  goea 
by  the  name  of  '  Las  Leyes  de  Toro ;' 


VALLADOIilD— BOinxa 


495 


ftnd  finall J,  it  was  here  that  the  Cortes 
solemnlj  reoognised  the  rights  of  Orazj 
Jane,  and  proclaimed  her  and  her  frail 
husband,  Philippe  le  Bel,  king  of  Spain, 
with  the  regency  of  Ferdinand  the  Ca- 
tholia  MoraUi  de  Toro^  sitoated  a  few 
miles  forther,  claims  the  honour  (^hay- 
ing glTen  Urth  to  the  great  Qneen  Isa- 
bella. 

At  ViOalair,  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Homilla,  is  preserred  the  post  on  which 
were  stack  and  exhibited  the  heads  of 
the  ringleaders  of  the  Oomoneros  (see 
TdUdia),  Padilla,  Bravo,  and  Maldon- 
ado,  who  were  put  to  death  April  28, 
1521,  baring  been  made  prisoners  at 
the  battle  which  thej  fonght  and  lost 
Their  remains  were  taken  np  in  1821, 
and  remored  to  the  cathedral  of  Za- 
mora. 

Tordasinas.— Hear  theBaero,  8600 
inhabitants.  Iim$:  Parador  de  Val  de 
Hnertos,  and  de  Tlsta  Al^gre.  The  city 
contains  six  parish  churches,  among 
which  visit  San  Antolin  for  the  fine 
sepulchre  of  Don  Pedro  Qons.  de  Alde- 
rete,  Oomendador  en  1*  orden  de  San 
Jnan ;  it  is  the  masterpiece  of  the  local 
sonlptor  Qaspar,  and  dbtes  1527.  This 
is  a  beantif^  example  of  the  plater- 
esqne.  Visit  likewise  the  nnnneiy  of 
Sta.  Clara,  which  OTerlooks  the  riyer, 
for  its  artesonado^  and  Chapel  de  Sal- 
dafia  (Sal  Danha),  of  1485,  and  fine  re- 
table,  ssid  to  hare  belonged  to  Jnan  II. 
To  this  oonTent  Crazy  Jane,  the  mother 
of  Charies  Y.,  retired  to  die,  wmtching 
to  the  end  the  coflEb  of  her  Pithless 
Felipe  el  Hermosa  She  died  April  11, 
1585,  sged  serentj-six,  one  (^  the  many 
Spaoish  monarchs  who,  after  a  long^ 
wearisome  life-stmg^e,  were  wont  to 
seek  the  quiet  and  peace  found  in  those 
days  only  in  the  cool  solitary  cloisters, 
near  altars^  and  amid  tombs.  Crazy 
Jane,  dying  at  the  nunneiy  of  Sta.  Clara, 
her  son,  Cliarles  Y.,  at  the  monastery 
of  Yuste^  and  Philip,  her  grandson,  in 


his  cell  at  the  Eso<msI,  did  no  more 
than  follow  the  example  of  the  Alfimsos^ 
Bermudoe^  and  other  numberiess  kings 
and  queens  who  had  ended  their  exist- 
enoe  in  humility  and  prayer,  after  a  life 
of  pomp^  power,  and  often  excess.  Buo- 
naparte was  lodged,  Dec  25, 1808,  in  a 
house  adyoining  thii  ocmTent  Torde- 
sillas  wss  the  centre  of  the  Communal 
morement  until  the  defeat  of  the  ring- 
leaders by  the  Conde  de  Haro. 

CUmaacas.— /Miw.*  Fondftdel  Puente^ 
and  a  poor  Meson  de  los  Arrierosi  It 
may  prore  a  conTenience  to  those  who 
oome  here  to  consult  the  srohiTss,  to  be 
j^orided  with  good  letters  of  reoom- 
mendation  to  the  Arohireso  Msyor,  and 
to  some  dtisen  at  whose  house  he  may 
be  more  eomfortably  settled.  About 
two  diligences  and  the  mail  return  daily 
to  Yalladolid,  in  which  seats  may  be 
obtained.  The  diligences  usually  pass 
at  8  r.M.,  and  the  hours  for  eramining 
the  archiTes  are  from  9  A.M.  to  8  r.M. 
The  best  plan  (circumstances  permit- 
ting) would  be  to  hire  a  caniage  at  Yal- 
ladolid by  the  week  or  month.  It  is 
about  1)  hr.'s  drire,  and  onebould  then 
aToid  B  flats  and  F  shsrps  at  the  Si- 
mancssinns. 

This  smsll  Tillage  (000  inhabitants)  is 
situated  on  thePiraerga,  whichiserossed 
on  a  fine  bridge  of  serenteen  srches,  and 
is  girdled  by  strong  waDs.  Here  are 
kept  the  ArchiTos  del  Beino,  and  thou^ 
▼ery  sererely  injured  by  the  I^enoh, 
who  used  many  inTiluable  documents 
as  waste  paper,  they  are  an  inexhaus- 
tible mine  of  infonnation,  as  yet  but 
superficially  iuTestigated,  and  seldom 
troubled  \tf  natire  authors.  Erery 
facility  is  most  obliging  granted  by 
the  ArchiTeeo  Mayor,  and  some  of  the 
oflldals  understand  French.  A  permis- 
sion to  see  papen  later  than  1700  and 
to  copy  and  make  extracts  is  indispens- 
able. 

The  archiTes  were  established  hers  by 


496 


YALLADOUD. 


Older  of  Cardinal  Ximenea.  The  arohi* 
tecta  who  repaired  the  old  boflding  were 
Herrera,  Alo.  Bermgoete,  and  Mora»  and 
OharlesY.  'a  aecretaiy  Ay^lft  waa  chaiged 
with  the  arrangement  of  the  papers^  for 
which  he  waa  paid  100,000  maraTodia 
a-jear.  Beaide  atate  papers,  charta, 
correspondence  of  ambanadora^  etc., 
there  are  rery  important  private  docu- 
menti^  elndditting  many  donbtftil  points 
in  the  histories  not  only  of  Spain,  bat 
of  England,  France,  the  Low  Oonntries, 
and  Italy,  of  which  aeveral  writers,  such 
aa  Mr.  Waahington  Iiring^  IVeaoott, 
and  ICr.  Fronde,  haye*  already  availed 
themselyes.  The  easnal  visitor  may  in- 
quire for  the  Becerro  of  Alfonao  XL, 
which  contains  a  curions  account  of  all 
the  renta  paid  to  the  crown ;  the  original 
deed  of  capitulation  at  the  surrender  by 
Boabdil  of  the  city  of  Granada;  the 
famoua  and  now  proverbial  ouentaa  del 
Gran  Cat^tan  (Gonzalo  de  Cordoba),  and 
hia  original  despatohea ;  the  Reeamara, 
or  inventoriea  of  Queen  laabella'a  jewels, 
library,  armoury,  etc.,  at  Segovia  ;  her 
will  and  that  of  Charles  Y.,  etc. 


FaUaMid. 

Hotola. — 1.  Fonda  del  Korte,  in 
OaUe  de  Santiago,  dose  to  the  Arooand 
the  railway  station,  is  veiy  good  and 
comfortable.  Kept  by  D.  Mskin  Ber- 
ben,  who  is  moet  civil  and  reaaonable ; 
very  Mr  cuisine  and  good  attendance ; 
no  flre-plaoea  ;  chaigea  24r.  to  80r.,  all 
included,  whether  dining  at  table 
dlidteorin  private  rooms.  Aaitting- 
room  and  two  best  bed-rooms,  medb 
included,  i8r.  to  52r.  A  aervant's  room 
and  meals.  16r. 

2.  Fonda  del  Si^o  de  Oro^  in  centre 
ni  town ;  charges  higher,  newly  fur- 
nished ;  Italian  cook ;  diligence  oiBce. 

8.  Fonda  de  Pari%  opposite,  in  Pla- 
luela  de  Sta.  Ana,  decent  and  dean. 


IfOdging.HouflM.— See^  for  thess^ 
advertisementa  in  the  local  papers. 

OUmat«.— Lat  K.,  41*  43f,  and  42m. 
long.  W.  Madrid. 

Yalladolid  la  wholesome,  the  air  pore 
and  genial,  and  the  aky  genoally  dear 
anddoudleas.  The  prevdent  winds  are 
K.K.B.,S.,andaW. ;  theB.  ia  aoarody 
ever  fdt,  and  the  W,  aa  rardy.  The 
average  thermometrie  temperature  is^— > 


Winter 
Spring 
Stunmcf 
AiiConui 


3.56 
8.33 
•a6s 
lag 


The  quantity  of  rain  that  fidls  in 

Winter  ii  6  in^et  3a  fisMS  (^MurfdO 
Snrinflr       «    ..  <     .. 


Spring  7  „  1  „ 
Sununer  •  „  18  „ 
Autumn  7    „      46    „ 


There  are  no  endemics  or  epidemica 
at  Yalladolid.  The  prevalent  illneaaea 
in  spring  and  autumn  are  rheumatiam 
and  affectiona  of  the  aeroua  and  mu- 
ooua  membranes  ;  in  summer  intermit- 
tent fevers,  and  ague  among  the  lower 
classes,  who  live  by  the  river-side ;  and 
catarrh  in  winter.  'This  climate  ia  ill 
auited  to  invalida  generally,  and  eape- 
cially  to  thoae  whoee  cheat  ia  affected, 
or  with  a  predispontion  to  be  sa  The 
time  to  visit  it  is  the  autumn.  The 
water  which  is  drunk  is  generally  whole- 
some^ cryatalline^  and  pure ;  the  best^ 
and  that  ia  really  liquid  cryatal,  ia  that 
firom  Fuente  de  la  Salud  and  Fuente  de 

There  were^  in  1890,  00  inhabitanta 
between  the  agea  of  80  and  100.  The 
mortality  ia  1-25. 

Oenaral  Deeoription. — Yalladolid 
ia  dtuated  in  a  wide  and  aeemingly 
boundleaa  wind-blown  plain  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Pisueiga,  which  bathea  it 
on  the  W.,  and  flows  K.  to  a  for  2 
leagues  before  its  confluence  takea  place 
with  the  Duero^  which  it  divides.  The 
interior  of  the  dty  ia  divided  K  to  W, 


YALLADOUD. 


497 


bj  one  of  the  two  irms  into  which  the 
EagnevE  branohei  oIom  to  it,  the  other 
aim  flowing  outside^  until  both  meet 
and  flow  into  the  Fisnerga  below.  The 
city  liei  about  2100  ft.  abore  the  see, 
and  the  absence  of  trees  allows  the  wind 
to  blow  freely  about  it  The  heat  in 
somnier  is  often  great ;  both  for  this 
reason  and  becanse  the  soil  on  which  it 
stands  is  sandstone^  with  a  thin  and 
deeplT-snnkstratamofolayejmarl — day 
being  preTalent  only  to  tiie  right  of  the 
canal,  and  towards  Simancaa,  as  far  as 
Tordeaillas.  Few  cities  in  Spain  are 
better  sitoated  for  trade  and  mannfitc- 
tnres;  there  is  abundant  water  amid 
the  tienas  de  Campos,  which,  ill-cnlti- 
Tated  as  they  are,  yield  some  six  millions 
of  fim^gas  yearly.  Communicating  with 
the  Atlantic  hj  the  Duero,  witi^  the 
centre  and  sonUi  of  Spain  by  railways 
and  canals,  its  prosperity  (which  had 
been  accidentally  checked  by  the  remor- 
al  of  the  conrt  to  Madrid,  and  depressed 
by  continoed  war  and  civil  strife)  is 
rapidly  retoming^  and  manufactures 
riM  up  ererywhere.  Companies  de 
ri^,  etc.,  are  improring  the  nature  of 
the  soil  around ;  a  bank  has  been  estab- 
lished with  a  capital  of  £60,000,  streets 
are  being  pared,  enlarged,  multiplied, 
and  the  sun  of  civilisation,  as  the  local 
pspen  say,  is  at  last  rising  once  more 
on  this  ac^ire,  busy,  and  historical  town. 
General  sight-seeing  here  is  of  no  great 
importance,  and  one  day  will  suffice ; 
but  the  amateur  of  sculpture  may  study 
the  few  but  not  indifferent  masters  that 
Spain  boasts  of^  and  of  which  numer- 
ous and  first-rate  works  exist  scattered 
in  tiie  different  churches^  and  collected 
atthelfuseo. 

Hlstorloal  ITotioe.— We  think  the 
reader  will  thank  us  to  omit  quotations 
of  an  that  has  been  written  on  the  ety- 
mology of  this  town,  or  to  attempt  an 
answer  to  the  inquiries— Is  it  the  Pin- 
da  of  Ptolemy,  the  Yale  of  Conflict, 

2 


Yalle  de  Lid,  or  the  Moor's  Belkl  Wa- 
lid,  LandoftheWalid?  Be  this  as  it 
may,  the  first  time  this  name  is  men- 
tioned in  any  authentic  dooumeot  is  in 
the  reign  of  Sancho  IL  of  Leon  (1072), 
when  he  proposed  to  his  sister  Dofta 
TJrraca,  whom  he  was  fraternally  be- 
sieging at  Zamora,  to  exchange  the 
latter  for  Bioseoo  and  'el  infantaj^  de 
Yalladolid,'  which  she  would  not  accede 
to.  At  the  coronation  of  Alfonso  YIII. 
as  King  of  Castile,  Leon,  and  Galida 
(in  1072),  this  town  was  granted  by  the 
monarch  to  his  follower  and  friend  the 
wealthy  and  puissant  Conde  Don  Pedro 
Ansures,who  may  be  c<msidered  as  the 
real  founder;  he  fortified  and  embel- 
lished it,  raised  a  palace,  buflt  churches 
and  bridges,  etc  After  his  death  the 
grant  relapsed  to  the  crown,  and  under* 
Juan  n.  it  became  the  residence  of  the 
kings  of  Castile.  Here  Juan  was  mar- 
ried to  Maria,  daughter  of  King  Ferdi- 
nand; and  on  Leonor  of  Aragon  passing 
throu£^  Yalladolid  on  her  way  to  Por- 
tugal to  be  married  to  the  In£uite 
Duarte^  great  jousts  and  tournaments 
took  pla^  in  her  honour,  of  which  the 
King  of  NaTarre  and  D.  AlTaro  de  Luna 
were  the  heroes ;  at  night  there  was  a 
grand  ball  and  sarao  in  the  ConTent  de 
San  Pablo^  when  all  were  so  merry  that 
<m  the  fair  Brianda  de  Luna  insisting 
on  4f^"""g  a  'sambra'  with  the  Arch- 
bishop of  lisbon,  the  prelate  gallantly 
rejoined,  'Si  sopiera  que  tan  apuesta 
Sefiora  me  habia  de  Uamar  k  bail^  non 
tragera  tan  luengas  Testidurasr  The 
King  of  Castile  Inroke  three  lances  with^ 
Buy  Dias  de  Mendoa,  to  whom  he  guve 
hyi  own  steed,  magnificently  o^Mrison- 
ed ;  and  100  knights,  led  l^  AlTaro  de 
Luna,  and  dad  in  white  and  red,  ap- 
peared at  the  last  tournament  Jofge 
Manrique  mentions  them  in  the  wdl* 
known  tusos  :^ 


Qoe  M  hiso  «l  Rty  D.  Juaat 
Lm  In&atM  <le  Aragoi^ 


498 


VALLADOUD. 


Qutftehideroof 

Qutf  futf  de  tanto  galanf 

Qui  fue  de  tmnu  invencion, 

Cono  tnOeioo? 

Lm  Jostas  tf  lot  tonieot 

Eomeimt. 

Fueton  imo  deyaneotf 

Qutf  fberoo  ano  verdurw 

DebtcrMf 

Here  this  nine  Don  Alvaro^  once  the 
royal  j»ritMKio^  waa^  by  the  king's  orders, 
pat  to  deftth  in  the  Plaza  Mayor,  June 
7,  1458,  on  which  occasion  he  begged 
Banasa,  who  was  the  Infante  Don  En- 
riqne's  Master  of  the  Horse,  to  entreat 
his  master  to  recompense  his  servants 
better  than  the  king  had  done  hiuL 
The  king  died  the  next  year,  full  of  re- 
morse and  griet  Isabella  was  married 
to  Ferdinand  in  the  building  now  La 
Andienda,  October  18,  1469,  and  the 
first  decree  of  enlistment  in  the  army 
was  issued  here  and  by  them,  January 
1498,  calling  on  every  dtisen  from  the 
age  of  twenty  to  forty-fiTe  to  serre^  the 
deigy,  hidalgoi^  and  mendicants  only 
being  excluded.  Here^May20, 1606,  on 
Ascension-day,  Oolumbus  breathed  his 
last  at  his  modest  dwelling  No.  2  Calle 
Anciia  de  la  Msgdalena.  His  body 
was  placed  in  the  ConTent  of  San  Fran- 
cisco^ and  remoyed  six  years  after  to  La 
Oart^{a  de  las  Cueras  at  Seville,  to  be 
sent  across  the  seas  he  had  discovered. 
It  was  conveyed  to  Sto.  Domingo  (1686), 
and  finally  removed  in  1796  to  Cuba, 
where  it  now  lies. 

Here,  again,  on  May  81, 1627,  Philip 
II.  came  into  the  world  in  a  laige  house 
opposite  San  Pablo^  and  reoenUy  pur- 
chased by  8r.  Beinosa  Here  GShiffles 
y.  remained  ten  days  on  his  way  to 
Tusta  The  first  auto  tU  fl  that  took 
place  here  was  celebrated  in  the  Plasa 
Mayor,  May  21, 1669,  under  the  presi- 
dency of  DoAa  Juana,  the  heir  to  the 
crown,  and  the  young  Don  Juan  of 
Austria.    Such  was  the  eager  curiosity 


manifested  by  all  classes  to  witness  this 
spectacle,  that  seats  were  sold  for  the 
then  enormous  sum  of  five  shillings ; 
and  thousands  crowded  to  the  square, 
filling  the  streeti^  and  swarming  on  the 
very  roofik  Fourteen  culprits^  all  Lu- 
therans, were  executed,  and  the  bones 
of  a  female  who  was  suspected,  from  a 
moral  poet-mortem  examination^  to 
have  been  tainted  with  heresy,  were 
burnt  there  and  then,  as  her  case  had 
been  overlooked  whilst  she  was  alive  I 
Philip  II.  was  present  at  another  OMio^ 
which  took  place  here,  when  thirteen 
persons  were  burnt  alive ;  and  yet  he 
raised  tiie  Escorial  in  memory  of  one 
who  was  considered  a  great  heretio  by 
those  who  martyred  him,  San  Lorenso^ 
who  was  burnt  alive  for  his  fidth. 
Philip  took  a  great  fimey  to  this  dty, 
and  after  the  great  fire  of  1621  rebuilt 
a  laige  portion  of  it,  and  embellished 
other  parts.  Valladolid  was  at  this 
time  tiie  most  frequented  and  prospe- 
rous dtyin  Spain,  numbered  100,000 
inhabitanti^  was  the  usual  resort  of  all 
foreign  princes  and  artists,  and  the  court 
of  the  Berruguetes,  Juni,  Herrera,  and 
the  Arphes.  Its  university  was  fre- 
quented by  French  and  Italians,  as  well 
as  by  the  natives  themselves ;  and  Na- 
v^ero  says,  'Sono  in  Valladolid  assai 
artefed  dl  ogni  sorts,  4  se  vi  lavora  ben- 
essimo  de  tntte  le  arti,  e  sopim  tutto 
d'aigenti,  e  vi  sono  tanti  aigenteri  quan- 
ti  non  sono  in  due  altre  terra.'  ('Yiag- 
gioinSpagna,'foL66.)  With  all  this, 
it  was  the  paradise  of  housekeeper^  as 
1  lb.  of  meat  was  to  be  had  for  2d.,  aloaf 
(wei^iing  21  Ibai)  for  the  same,  and 
an  asumbre  of  excellent  wine  (half-a- 
gallon)  for  24d.  The  fStes  at  the 
christndng  of  Philip  IIL's  son  have 
seldom  beat  equalled  since.  England 
was  here  worthily  represented  by  her 
ambassador,  Lord  Howard,  who  came 
accompanied  by  fifty  noblemen,  most 
of  than  knights  of  the  Oolden  Spor. 


i 


YALLADOUD— MUSIO. 


499 


but  wliote  somewluit  pUin  dieases  and 
high  boots  oontrasted  sorrily  with  the 
sfttins  and  sflken  stockiiigs  of  the  hi- 
dalgos. Philip  made  Lend  Howard  a 
present  of  Jewels  to  the  yalae  of  45,000 
docati^  besides  8000  to  his  servanti^ 
horses,  swords,  etc. — a  generosity  which 
excited  many  romonrs  fed  by  enry, 
and  resumed  in  these  satirical  yerses  of 
Gongora's : — 

Parid  la  Reina,  el  Lutorano  tiao 
Cob  aeiacMntoa  neregn  y  herafias 
Gaatamoa  on  nilloii  en  qtnnce  dia> 
Eadariesjoyaa,  hoqtediO*  y  vino. 


Quedamos  pobfei,  fotf  Lotero  rioo ; 

Mandaronse  eacribir  estas  haiaBas 

A  Don  Qu^ote,  ik  Saadio  j  to  juraento. 

This  last  allusion  to  Cervantes  is 
explained  by  the  fact  that  he  was  or- 
dered to  write  a  description  of  those 
fHes,  which  stQl  exists,  though  it  does 
not  bear  his  name.  This  great  writer 
lived  here  in  the  small  house  behind 
the  Hotel  del  Norte,  No.  11  (antigno), 
Plazaela  del  Rastro,  near  a  small 
wooden  bridge  orer  the  Eigaeba. 

Philip  XL  removed  the  Conrt  to 
Madrid,  and  although  PhiUp  III.  was 
tempted  to  retom  to  Yalladolid,  he 
could  not  carry  his  wish  into  effect,  and 
this  change  proved  the  death-blow  to 
the  prosperity  of  Yalladolid.  During 
the  Peninsular  war,  Napoleon  entered 
the  city,  January  6,  1809,  remained 
tUl  the  17th,  and  lodged  in  the  Palado 
Real  The  French  remained  four  yeari^ 
and  left  after  the  battle  of  Salamanca ; 
and  on  July  80,  the  Duke  of  Welling- 
ton made  his  public  entry  by  the  gate 
de  Santa  Clara  amid  great  enthusiasm, 
and  lodged  at  the  bishop's  palace, 
now  Colegio  Mayor  de  Santa  Cms. 
The  French  returned  with  Joseph  Buona- 
parte (1813),  but  left  soon  after,  and  for 
the  last  time. 

Sights.— Museo  and  churches  con- 
taining sculpture,  Cathedral,  San  Pablo, 


Col^o  de  San  Gr^gorio^  8aa  Benito^ 
University,  Palado  Beal,  etc. 

Musao. — ^The  statues,  carving  and 
pictures  that  could  be  collected  at  the 
suppression  of  conyents  im  this  pro- 
vince have  been  placed  in  this  fine 
building,  once  the  Colegio  Mayor  de 
Santa  Cruz,  founded  by  Cardinal  Men- 
doca  in  1479,  land  whose  €9tiidioi  and 
privileges  were  assimilated  to  thoJe  of 
San  Bartolom^  at  Salamanca.  The 
museo  consists  of  a  grand  salon,  six 
rooms  (miat)  with  pictures,  and  three 
Ailed  witii  sculpture.  For  permissi<m 
to  Tirit»  copy,  etc,  apply  to  the  8r. 
Director,  who  is  most  obliging  and 
intelligent;  in  his  absence  a  sOrer 
key  will  open  the  door.  The  gallery 
is  undergoing  the  general  mimtminag^  • 
that  is  going  on  in  all  the  Spanish 
museos,  and  ^  old  catalogue  is  being  al* 
tered,  and  a  new  one  will,  «<  Diot  fnimi^ 
be  terminated  OMMuIo  Diot  jiciim. 

PICTURES.    SALAlA. 

No.  XL  Tentadones  de  San  Antonio, 
by  Bosch. 

16.  Sto.  Domingo  de  Gusman  giving 
Bread  to  the  Poor,  by  Cardenas  (done  in 
Portugal,  1647,  a  pupU  of  Coellos), 
formerly  in  San  Pablo. 

16.  A  small  Gothic  retablo  with  four 
compartments  and  quaint  figures,  of 
16th  century. 

Portrait  of  Sto.  Tomas  de  Bippa,  by 
Martines. 

The  columns  and  carving  of  a  retablo, 
with  a  copy  of  Raphaels,  are  by  Berm- 
guete. 

8ALA  2a. 

2.  San  Geronimo^  a  dauby  copy  of 
Ribera. 

Adoration  of  Shepherds  and  Adora- 
tion of  Kings,  by  Cardenas  (Nos.  4-18). 
Injured,  but  pure. 

17.  St  Gerome.  Yenetian  school,  b) 
Giacope  Palma  (t). 


500 


YALLADOUD— MUSEO. 


SALA  8a. 

4|  6,  0.  Copies  of  Rabens;  have  been 
Moribed  to  Abraham  Diepenboke,  bia 
pupil,  and  some  repainted  Oiordanoe ; 
more  probably  copies. 

14  and  10.  Two  early  pictores  of 
Bishops,  ascribed  to  F.  Qallegos.  An 
Adoration  of  the  Shepherds  and  Flight 
into  Egypt,  by  Bermgnete;  formerly 
in  San  Benito. 

SALA  4a. 

Marriage  of  the  Virgin,  by  Palomino 
(formerly  in  Capachinos). 

10.  San  Antonio  (formeily  in  Con- 
▼ent  de  San  Francisco),  ascribed  to  Van 
Dyck! 

17.  Coronation  of  the  Virgin,  escnela 
deM.  Angela 

SALA  5a. 

A  fine  Annunciation  by  Hartines, 
signed,  formerly  in  Chapel  de  Fabio 
Nelli,  at  San  Agnstin. 

A  Ribera-like  San  Geronimo. 

Obserre,  as  a  cariosity,  the  twenty- 
four  pictures  representing  the  Passion, 
and  painted  on  mother-of-pearL 

A  good  portrait  of  Duke  of  Lerma. 

SALON  GRANDE. 

Two  fine  sillerias.  The  best  by  ^• 
mguete,  and  formerly  at  San  Benita 
Caspar  de  Tordesillas  worked  at  it  alsa 
Orer  each  stall  is  the  Saint  and  coat-of- 
arms  of  eveiy  Benedictine  conTent  in 
Spain. 

83,  84,  86,  80,  all  boldly  ascribed 
to  A.  Diirer,  poor  man  t 

1.  Assumption,  by  Rubens  ;  12,  St 
Anthony  ridng  to  Heayen.  The  14  is 
the  Stigmats.  All  anthentio  and  from 
the  Conrent  de  FuensaldaAa. 

18.  Last  Supper,  by  Antonio  Paieda 
of  Valladolid  (1599-1478). 

161.  A  Bodegon,  ascribed  to  Velas- 
qnss. 


18L  San  Bruno,  ascribed,  with  some 
season,  to  Zurbaian. 

186.  Portrait  of  OliTares.  The  Christ 
aboYe  is  ascribed  to  Velasquez. 

4.  Virgin  and  ChUd,  by  Fraudsoo 
Meneses,  Murillo's  faTourita  pupH 

6  and  e.  San  Miguel  and  San  Juan, 
by  Berruguete. 

8.  The  Jubilee  of  La  Porciuncula,  by 
Diego  Valentin  Diaz. 

A  Holy  Family,  very  fine  compo- 
sition, signed,  Didacus  Diaas  pictor, 
1621. 

Holy  Family,  by  Giulio  Romano. 
Very  beautiftiL 

8aUphift,^Jn  the  Salon  Grande  ob- 
serre the  magnificent  Ivonae  effigies 
of  the  celebrated  prime  minister  and 
priyado,  the  Duque  de  Lerma,  and 
of  his  duchess,  by  Pompeio  Leoni, 
formerly  in  the  Conrent  of  San  Pablo, 
of  which  they  were  the  founders.  They 
wei^  48  quintiOs,  and  coat  $48,000. 
The  expression,  attitude,  modelling, 
and  details  of  dress  ars  aU  fttj  fine. 
The  ygi'ftl*^  model  of  the  Conyent  del 
Prado  in  Sala  la  is  by  Col  GU  de  Pala- 

do%  and  reiy  good  jut  ^ifisrif. 

SALA  IJL. 

88.  Virgin  and  Dead  Christ,  and 
the  TwoThieres,  also  called  LaPiedad, 
from  the  Conrent  de  las  Angustias, 
a  grand  composition,  by  Gregorio 
Hernandez.  The  Two  Thieres  are 
likewise  by  Hernandez,  though  often 
ascribed  to  Leon  Leoni,  Pompeio's 
brother.  The  reUero  medallion  which 
represents  the  Baptism  of  tiie  Lord  by 
St  John  the  Baptist^  proceeds  from  the 
Conrent  del  Carmen  Descalia  and  is 
also  by  Hernandez.  The  anatomy  and 
draperies  sre  admirably  finished ;  it  is 

painted. 

San  Benito,  of  coloassl  sise^  formeriy 
in  the  Retablo  Mayor  of  San  Bsnit% 
by  Berruguete. 


YALLADOUD — CHURCHB8. 


501 


•      SALA  2a. 

An  earlj  Gennan  Gothio  retablo  of 
14th  centniy ;  veiy  interestiiig. 

SALA  $▲. 

16.  San  Antonio  de  Padna;  and 
SO,  San  Bnmo ;  both  bj  Jnan  de  JnnL 
The  latter  U  a  maeterpieoe. 

Burial  of  Ohiist,  by  Joni,  with  figores 
of  the  Magdalen,  Virgin,  etc.,  another 
inaeterpieoe,  eomewhi^  attitndinarian, 
but  remarkilble  for  the  wonderfol  yigonr 
of  escpreesion,  great  breadth  of  compo- 
sition, and  anatomy. 

Santa  Teresa  de  Jesus,  from  Conrent 
del  Oarmen,  a  masterpiece  of  Her- 
nandez. 

A  smaller  Sta.  Teresa,  by  same. 

Upon  a  table  a  dead  Head  of  St 
Pad,  by  Villabrill^  1707.  Vciy  fine, 
une  belU  harrmrf  but  endent  man- 
nerism. 

A  Concepdon,  by  Hemandes ;  bean- 
tifnl,  as  also  are  his  Virgins  here. 

Christ  Bearing  the  (^oss,  by  same ; 
grand  and  powerful 

Virgin  giving  the  Soapulary  to  Simon 
Stock,  by  Hemandes ;  excellent 

Notice  all  the  statuettes  and  statues 
by  BeiTUguete. 

San  Fnncisoo,  by  Hemandes. 

All  tiie  sculpture  round  No.  11  is  by 
Juan  de  Juni,  and  from  the  CouTent 
de  San  Francisoo. 

SALA  DE  JUNTAS. 

Besides  a  good  portrait  of  Oardinal 
Hendoa,  obsenre  a  fine  irory  Craci- 
fizion  by  Pompeio  Leoni,  the  mother- 
of-pearl  esoritorios  made  for  Philip  V., 
etc. 

N,B, — ^All  the  forcing  picturss  and 
sculpture  are  being  daily  mored  from 
room  to  room  ;  and  the  new  catalogue 
not  being  yet  published,  we  haye  pUoed 
the  pictures  and  statues,  now  mostly 
without  numbers,  in  the  Salas  where 
we  saw  them  last 


Ohnrohea  containing  Boolpttirea 
and  Paintings.  La  Magdal&na,  — 
Qothic,  of  1670;  architect,  Rodrigo 
OiL  A  magnificent  Oorinthian  retablo, 
the  work  of  Esteban  Jordan,  1607.  The 
marble  eflSgy  of  the  Bishop  Pedro  de 
Oasca»  who  founded  this  church,  by 
Jordan.  This  prelate,  Bidiop  of  Pa- 
lencia,  was  sent  by  Charles  V.  to 
America  to  inyestigate  into  and  repress 
the  Tiolent  goremment  of  Pizsaro. 

ScmLortmm, — Paintings  by  Blasco, 
1621,  and  in  saeristia  a  procession  of 
the  Virgin,  which  was  Inou^t  to 
Maria,  wife  of  Philip  IIL  A  fine  Holy 
Family,  by  Hemandes. 

SanJuliom  y  San  ARgtUL-^-ThA  clas- 
sical retablo  of  the  three  orders  hss 
meszi-relieTi  representing  NatiTitj 
and  Circumcision,  by  Qaffpar  Becena. 
The  statue  of  St  Michael,  formerly  in 
the  church  of  San  Pelayo^  and  tiie 
Apostles^  ars  ascribed  to  Pomp.  LeonL 
The  Tcry  fine  irory  cmdfiz  on  the 
altar-table  is  uniTersally  ascribed  to 
Michael  Angeb.  The  San  Frandsco 
on  the  side  of  the  CTsngelio^  and  the 
San  Ignaoio  de  Loyola  on  the  side  of 
the  epiBtola  of  the  collateral  altars^  are 
by  Gregorio  Hemandes.  Obsenre  here 
also  the  fine  sepulchres  and  elBgies  of 
the  founders^  who  were  Condes  de  La 
FuensaldaBa. 

In  tht  Ante-Sacristia  ii  an  Infant 
Deity  holding  the  terrestrial  (^obe, 
a  copy  of  Corregio,  according  to 
Bosarte,  but  perhaps  a  replica  by  him 
of  same  sulject^  formerly  in  Boyal 
Palace  at  Madrid.  In  the  Saeristia,  a 
fine  San  Franoieoo  breathing  his  Isst, 
most  effectiye,  by  Ribera,  or  at  least 
worthy  of  him,  and  in  his  style.  In  a 
small  chapel  in  this  saeristia  are  a  San 
Ignado  and  St  Francis  of  Borgia,  both 
fine  examples  of  Qregorio  Hemandes. 
Obserre  here  also,  forming  part  oi  a 
Relicario^  the  delicately-moddled  heads 
of  the  four  Doctors  of  the  Ghureh. 


602 


VALLADOLID— CATHEDRAL. 


N.  S.d$  la  AfUigua,^T\M  was  the 
fint  ehurch  bnilt  \j  Conde  D.  Pedro 
Aniurei,  and  seirod  as  Colegiata  until 
109fi.  The  Bjzantine  edifice  was 
altered  in  the  14th  century,  by  Alfonso 
XI.,  but  though  the  interior  is  Qothio^ 
the  exterior  has  preserred  mnch  of  the 
primitlTe  style ;  thus  obserre  its  brick- 
built  tower  and  fifteen-arched  portico 
on  one  side  of  the  cloister.  Its  high 
altar  is  aU  the  work  of  Juan  de  Juni, 
who  endearonred  to  surpass  here  Ber- 
ruguete's  similar  work  at  San  Benito  ; 
but  pressed  for  time  he  could  not  finish 
it  himself  and  most  is  by  his  pupils. 

San  NicoiUu.  —  Founded  by  Conde 
Ansurei^  repaired  and  altered  in  1644. 
Here  is  buried  the  beato  Fr.  Miguel  de 
los  Santos,  ob.  1625.  The  Ecce  Homo 
in  a  chapel  is  by  Hernandez  (?). 

San  MarUn, — Prior,  most  probably, 
to  12th  centuiy,  with  a  Byantine 
tower,  Tery  sinidlar  to  that  of  La  An- 
tigua; modernised  1621. 

iSMiavo.— Prior  to  the  18th  century, 
repaired  in  1490,  Qothic  now.  EfBgy 
of  the  tutelar  ascribed  to  Hemandes ; 
but  the  finest  sculpture  is  an  Adoration 
of  the  Kings,  a  masterpiece  of  Juni's. 
Obsenre  particularly  the  dassicalYiigin. 

La  Farion,  — A  Conrent,  aggregate 
of  San  Lorenio^  ohurrigueresque.  In 
the  collateral  altars  to  the  mayor  one 
are  a  Christ  Bound,  and  a  Christ  Pray- 
ing on  Mount  OliTct,  both  masterpieces 
of  anatomy,  by  Qregorio  Hernandez. 

N.S.d4la$  AngvMias,— Of  1604,  but 
of  earlier  foundation,  and  formerly  eren 
in  another  site.  The  building  has  been 
erroneously  ascribed  to  Herrera,  who 
was  dead  when  it  was  begun  by  Fran- 
cisco de  Prares.  The  high  altar  is, 
with  its  statues,  ascribed  to  Pomp. 
LeonL  The  Yiigen  de  las  Angustias 
is  ascribed  to  Hernandez.  The  ad- 
mirable effigy  of  N.  a  de  los  Cuchillos 
(of  the  knires  or  daggers)  is  the  mas- 
terpieoe  of  Juan  de  JunL     The  St 


John  and  Magdalen,  and  Christ  Bound, 
are  by  Hernandez. 

Sta,  Oiia.— Classical,  of  1595*  again 
not  by  Herrera,  although  the  arohitect 
is  ignored.  Compare  the  N.  S.  de  los 
Dolores  on  its  high  altar,  by  Hernandez, 
with  Juni's  similar  subject  in  Las 
Angustias,  allowing,  of  course^  for  the 
cruel  repainting,  which  has  altered  the 
expression.  The  Christ  is  inferior  to 
this.  In  the  collateral  altars  are— A 
Christ  Bound,  and  Prayer  on  Mount 
OliTet  A  grand  Paso*  the  Descent,  a 
Yiigen  de  U  Candelaria  (Candlemas), 
and  a  Veronica,  all  works  of  diffoent 
merit,  each  by  Hernandez. 

In  the  Church  of  Jesus  Kasareno^ 
the  effigy  of  Christ,  a  reiy  popular 
peso  in  the  Yalladolid  Good  Friday 
prooesdons^  is  ascribed  to  Hernandez ; 
but  the  good  and  stuff-manufeeturing 
Yallisolitanos  only  see  and  admire^  on 
such  occasions,  the  purple  tnnie  em- 
broidered with  gold. 

Nunndry  of  Sta,  JsoM.^  Founded 
1472,  by  DoAa  Isabel  de  Hermosilla. 
Obsare,  on  the  epistola  side  of  the  Co- 
rinthian rotable,  a  reiy  beautiM  kneel- 
ing St  Francisco  of  Assisi,  by  Juan  de 
Juni ;  the  head,  according  to  Bosart, 
rivals  that  of  tJie  Laocoon  in  the  ex- 
pression of  pain,  mingled  here  with 
humility,  piety,  self-denial,  etc. 

In  BudffOi  BmIu^  a  wonderful  re- 
table  by  Hernandez^  dated  1616. 

CitleSftL— This  noble  fragment  of  the 
granite  edifice  which,  were  it  comi^eted 
as  it  was  designed,  was  to  be  a  toio  tin 
iffual^  which  its  architect,  Herrera, 
asserted  with  greater  reason  than  mo- 
desty, was  built  on  the  site  of  the  for- 
mer Cdegiata,  founded,  end  of  11th 
century,  by  the  Conde  Pedro  Ansurez. 
The  primitiTe  design  was  entrusted, 
1527,  to  Pedro  Ria&o,  who  died  before 
the  works  were  eren  begun.  These 
were  then  continued  by  Rodrigo  Gfl  de 
Onta&on  and  oth*^  ••*'*  «««tlT  by  Joan 


H 


YALIADOLID. 


503 


de  Herrera.  This  arcliitect  fonned 
new  pUns  and  destroyed  what  had  been 
already  bnilt,  intending  to  niee  a  monu- 
ment bearing  the  stamp  of  the  new  style 
he  was  addicted  to,  and  intended  thns^ 
he  said,  to  '  desterrar  de  Sspafta  la  bar- 
barie  y  soberbia  ostentadon  de  los  an- 
tigaos  edificios.'  Bat  a  few  yean  had 
elapsed,  when  the  works  had  to  be  a 
second  time  intermpted,  on  Herrera 
beingcaUed  by  Philip  IL  to  Madrid  and 
entrosted  with  the  bnilding  of  the  Esco- 
riaL  Diego  de  Prayes  endearonred  to 
prcsecnte  the  works,  but  on  the  Court 
being  remoTod  to  Madrid,  the  chapter 
found  no  iimds  wherewithal  to  pursue 
them,  and  the  edifice,  unfinished  as  it 
was,  was  habilitado,  and  opened  for^the 
public  sendee. 

StyU  and  PrqporHont, — ^The  ground- 
plan  inside  forms  an  oblong  411  ft. 
long,  by  204  ft  wide.  On  the  left 
wing  of  the  principal  fiifade  Herrera 
had  intended  to  build  a  square  cloister, 
176  ft  long;  a  chapter-house  and  offices ; 
the  style  of  it  is  Grsco-Boman,  har- 
monious^ and  simple^  but  cold  and 
serere. 

BaoUrior.-^Jkftic.  The  principal 
portal  is  160  ft  high,  and  is  decorated 
with  statues  of  SS.  Peter  and  PauL 
The  entrance  is  formed  by  an  arch 
24  ft  wide,  and  50  ft  high,  with  a  stone 
Assumption  of  the  V iigin,  monotonous 
and  cold  as  the  rest  In  the  second 
stage,  so  to  speak,  of  the  facade  are 
statues  of.  the  Doctors  of  the  Church, 
and  pagan-like^  unmeaning  signs  of  the 
Sun  aiui  Moon,  signs  also  of  a  sculptor 
turned  into  a  lunaHc  by  a  stm-stroks^ 
called  Alberto  Churriguera,  but  «f»  htmor 
d$  la  v&rdad  9ta  didiot  those  futilities, 
as  well  as  the  statues,  balustrade,  and 
escutcheons^  were  not  Herrera's  doing, 
though  the  granite  balls  and  pyramids 
terminating  the  edifice  are  his,  and  con- 
•titute  a  clumsy  detail,  which  he  lored 
*-  — -"woduce  ererywhere.    Of  the  two 


projected  towers,  one  only  was  flnJA^, 
and  thii^  which  was  270  tL  high,  liaU 
May  81,  1841.  About  a  half  only  of 
the  edifice  is  finished,  and  to  compete 
it  22,000,000  reals  would  be  necessary; 
80  calculated  Y.  Bodrigues,  in  1768  1 

JnUrioT, — The  ornamentation  is  Co- 
rinthian and  sober.  Thero  aro  three 
nares,  the  central  being  60  ft  wide, 
with  chapels  all  round.  The  founds 
of  Yalladolid,  Pedro  Ansuies,  is  buried 
near  the  high  altar,  with  a  rude  eflSgy 
and  some  Teises  of  15th  century,  almost 
worthy  of  this  hero,  and  iDce  him, 
TaronUes,  manly : — 

Aqui  yaoe  teiNiltMlo 

Un  Coode  digno  <M  frina,  etc 

•         .    •  •  • 

La  Tida  de  1m  pumAm 
Reprehende  A  lot  praMnlM 
Ya  tales  tomot  toRiadot 
Que  el  raentar  lot  enterrndoc, 
Ei  tiltn^  A  loe-vmentet. 
Ponnie  la  fiuna  dd  boeoo 
Lastima  por  doode  Toela, 
Al  boeoo  ooo  la  cqmcU 
Y  al  mahrado  ooo  d  freao. 

and  ends,  with  this  other  cut— assharp 
as  the  good  Conde*s  sword,  no  doubt, 


eo  este  daio  cAp^)o 


Agota  tiene  CatriHa 
S^nn  lo  dd  tienpo  Tieja 

And  deserredly  so^  for  Yalladolid,  la 
patria  of  the  Junis,  Hemandes,  tlaspar, 
etc,  selfishly  followed  the  ungrateftd 
example  fA  other  towns  in  Spain,  and 
Pedro  Ansures  has  no  statue  in  the 
town  he  founded  and  loyed  so  welL 

CkapeU—De  S<mUitUhm,^A  St  Ber- 
nard, by  Giordana 

OapUia  dd  Sagrario, — Pictures  by 
the  same,  who  painted  ihtmpndimmo. 

OapiUa  de  Im  Dohn$,—Tht  founder 
Yelarde's  portrait  is  absurdly  ascribed 
to  Yelaiques.  The  famous  Cristo  de 
k  Cepa,  formerly  in  San  Benito^  il 
rererently  kept  here. 

OapiUa  ds  San  Jwtn,—A  picture  (St 


504 


VALLADOUD. 


Pftol),  hf  Giordano^  and  Bfmanl  small 
ones  bj  Martiiies.  Transfignratioii,  by 
Giordano  ;  retouched  hf  Gonzalez ;  pic- 
tores  bj  Martinez. 

In  a  small  altar,  in  the  entrance  of 
coro  hf  the  side  of  the  Gospel,  is  afine 
copy  of  Baphael's  Transfignration,  and 
copies  of  ^tian  and  Baasano ;  and  a 
St  Anthony,  dose  by,  of  Giwdano's. 
The  silleria,  formerly  in  San  Pablo,  is 
Tsry  fine,  of  the  dassical  style,  and  de- 
signed by  Herrera.  Orer  the  preUte's 
stall  is  a  fine  Adoration  of  KUigs,  by 
Giordano.  Observe  particularly  in  the 
Sacristy  an  exquisite  costodia  of  Joan 
de  Aife. 

Minor  Ohnrohes.— iSmi  Polio,  and 
CoUgio  de  San  Ordgoric—The  OmTent 
of  San  Pablo  was  founded  by  Queen 
DoAaYiolante,  about  1276.  The  church 
dates  1286,  and  was  built  by  Queen 
DoAa  Maria  de  Molina,  and  embellished 
in  the  15th  century  by  the  Abbot  of  Yal- 
ladolid,  Fr.  Juan  de  Torquemada,  who 
made  the  roof  higher  and  b^gan  the 
first  storey  of  the  splendid  fii^ade,  one 
of  the  finest  in  Oastile.  The  Duke  of 
Lerma,  at  the  beginning  of  the  17th 
oentuiy,  completed  the  edifice  and 
&fade ;  the  style  of  the  latter,  therefore^ 
differs  according  to  the  period,  the 
earliest  being  Gothic,  and  the  latest 
Graco-Boman.  The  chivch  was  defiled, 
defaced,  and  gutted  by  the  French,  and 
has  not  been  repaired  since.  The  ex- 
quisite cloister  was  demolished  by  the 
Uustrado  Goremment,  and  used  as 
building  materials  for*  the  presidio 
models  in  the  Campo  Grandej  now 
caTalry  barrackai  7%$  Colsgio  de  Stm 
Oregorio  is  adjoining;  and  was  founded 
in  the  15th  centuiy  by  Alfonso  de  Bur- 
gos, Bishop  of  Palenda  and  confessor 
of  Isabella,  with  the  object  of  proriding 
education  to  'poor  church  students.' 
The  edifice  and  patronage  were  giren 
oyer  to  the  Oatholic  kings  by  the  founder 
in  1496,  on  its  being  competed.    It  is 


a  fine  specimen  of  Gothic  architecture 
elegant,  original,  and  well  oonceiTed. 
Obserrethe  daboratelydecorated  ttuftA^ 
with  niche-work,  heraldic  trees  sup- 
p<»rting  huge  coats  of  arms,  and  orer 
the  entrance  arch  the  royal  coat  of  arms, 
with  lions  and  heralds.  Obsenre  also 
the  warriors  and  wild  men,  etc.,  and  the 
relicTorepresentingthefounder  kneeling 
and  dedicating  this  good  work  to  Saint 
Gregory.  Visit  the  elegant  patio,  with 
an  agimes  gallery,  spbal  pillars,  and 
the  yoke  And  bundle  of  arrows,  the 
canting  arms  of  the  Oatholio  kings. 
Visit  likewise  the  charming  staircase, 
artesonado  hall,  once  the  Ubraiy,  and 
the  chapel  where  the  founder's  tomb 
was  placed,  whose  eflSgy  by  Berruguete 
was  beautiftil,  and  compand  to  that  of 
Juan  U.  at  the  CSartuja  de  Mirafloies 
(Buigos) ;  but  thii^  the  books,  pictures^ 
statues,  etc.,  were  all  destroyed  by  the 
French.  The  building  is  now  turned 
into  offices  of  the  Ciyil  Goreinment 

San  Benito. — Henrique  II.  ordered 
in  his  will  that  his  son  Juan  I.  of  Oastile 
should,  to  expiate  his  sins,  found  two 
monasteriesL  This  king^  therefofs^ 
erected  San  Benito,  and  the  Paular  at 
SegoTia  (end  of  14tii  oentuiy).  It  was 
completed  1 604.  The  church  is  Gothic^ 
of  three  nares,  elegant  and  lofty. 
The  cloister,  of  two  galleries^  Doric  and 
Ionic,  has  been  ascribed  to  Herrera,  but 
was  built  by  one  Birero.  The  gems  of 
this  couTent  were  its  silleria,  pictures^ 
etc,  of  which,  the  former  by  Berm- 
gueta^  is  now  at  the  Museo^  the  conTont 
being  turned  into  infantry  barracks. 

UnimenUff, — ^According  to  some,  this 
would  be  the  earliest  in  Spain,  being 
founded  in  Palenda  in  the  18th  cen- 
tury, by  Sancho  I.  of  Castile,  and  re- 
moTed  hither  that  same  century  by 
KingSt  Ferdinano.  Be  this  as  it  may. 
howcTer,  the  present  building  is  of  re- 
cent date  as  its  churrignresque  style 
too  sufficiently  ppoTSSL     It  ia^  nerer- 


VALLADOIID. 


505 


tliel«H^  large,  aoUd,  not  waating  in 
elegance  and  grandeor,  yeiy  tfft^rt, 
and  haa  been  latterly  oonaiderably  Im- 
proTed> 

Palaeio  JZaoX.— Of  beginning  of  17th 
oentnry,  bnilt  for  the  DiJce  of  J^erma  bj 
Philip  IIL  It  ia  elegant,  well-propor- 
tioned, with  a  Teij  noble  patio,  which 
haa  two  galleriea  of  the  BoTiTal,  with 
eoiiona  capitala,  and  a  aeriee  of  boata 
of  Roman  emperora  and  eaentcheona  of 
all  the  proTincea  of  Spain.  They  are 
Bemgiiete-like,  and  probably  the  work 
of  aome  papil  of  hia,  bat  not  hff  him, 
aa  often  aaaerted,  aa  the  eacnteheon  of 
Portugal  la  among  the  reet,  which  king- 
dom waa  not  annexed  until  1680,  and 
BenTigaete  died  in  1669. 

FriTate  Honaea.— Yliitthefine  jNi<<ot 
of  the  Oaaa  del  Tnfantado^  oppoaite  San 
Gregorio^  of  the  AnoUapado,  of  No.  11 
Oalle  de  Herredarea.  The  /offluiM  of 
La  Oaaa  del  Sol,  once  the  abode  of  the 
great  and  learned  Oonde  de  Gondomar, 
Philip  lY.'a  ambaaeador  to  the  court  of 
Jamea  L  of  England ;  that  alao  of  the 
palace  of  Fabio  Nelli,  the  Mnoenaa  of 
Yalladolid  ;  alao  the  hooae  of  Marqu^ 
de  yillaTeId^  Otm  Berilla,  De  Yilla- 
rante^  etc 

Sgoarea,  Btreeta,  Prout-bita^ — ^The 
principal  atreet  ia  OaUe  de  Santiago, 
where  the  beat  ahopa  are.  Hera  is  tiie 
Arco  de  Santiago,  an  indifferent  heavy 
brick  edifice  ^  FranoiBco  de  Prarea, 
with  a  atatnette  of  Saint  Michael,  who 
waa  the  tnteUr  of  Yalladolid  nntQ 
1746,  when  its  present  one,  San  Pedro 
Begilado,  waa  canonised.  The  Plaaa 
Mayor  is  a  rery  fine  aqnare,  190  ft.  long 
by  180  wide,  aorroonded  by  symmetrical 
honaea,  with  three  tiers  of  balconiea, 
and  aroaded.  It  waa  bnilt  by  Philip 
IL,  and  waa  the  model  of  that  of  the 
aame  name  at  Madrid.  In  the  Plata 
de  Ounpo  Grande  Napoleon  reriewed 
86,000  men.  It  waa  formerly  the  aite 
of  toomamenti^    jousts,   aiitoa-dA-f<6, 


decapitationa,  bnll-fighti^  privrnte  ren- 
desTona  with  naTi^jaa,  and  other  anoh- 
like  medi«Tal  and  popolar  jollificationa. 

Pnmi'hiii.-'Otm  de  laa  AigoUaa. 
Here  Alraro  de  Lona  waa  oo^Bned, 
awaiting  hia  exeontion.  In  the  first 
hooae  to  the  ri^t  on  going  oat  of  the 
Plasoek  Yi^'a  into  GkUe  de  San  Martin, 
Alfonao  Oano  is  said  to  hare  aasaaai- 
nated  his  wife  In  a  fit  of  angry  Jealoaay, 
but,  la  Terdad  en  mi  lugmr,  and  there- 
fore periiapa  not  here  in  the  oAy. 

Berrognete  lived  near  San  Benito  el 
BeaL  Miago^  the  dd  Mattre  d'HOtel 
of  Pedro  Anaoiei^  is  baried  in  San 
Eateban;  over  hia  tomb  labia  baat  and 
theae  qaaint  versea : 

Aqd  yace  Ptodro  Mkfo* 
Qne  de  lo  mio  me  fiigo ; 
Lo  qde  oomi  j  b^  penU ; 
Lo  <ine  sea  deM  BO  lo  ta, 
Yelbienqoefise^fiJlL 

He  therefore  died  a  beggared  YateL 

BepeBol  que  canta 

O  raUa  o  DO  tieae  Uanca  (a  cofa^ 

labrariea.— i^tft/iotatt  Prcvimaial.^ 
In  the  aame  bailding  of  the  Moaeo, 
14,000  Tola.,  200  MSS.,  a  good  coUeo-* 
tion  of  coins,  globes,  and  mapa.  Among 
the  MSS.  are— thelibio  beoerro  de '  Laa 
Behetriaa  de  OaatOla,'  copied  firom  the 
original  MSS. ;  a  ooUectbn  of  Oortea  y 
Ordenanxaa,  etai.  Open  to  the  pablie^ 
free  admission  daily,  except  on  holidays^ 
from  10  A.M.  to  8  P.M. 

D$  la  ITfiuwrfuiadL  — 10,678  Tola., 
mostly  from  enppreased  conTcnta,  of 
no  great  merit  Inqaire  for  a  MS.  on 
Tellom  of  a  Hebrew  Bible,  a  fragment 
of  the  worka  of  Oicero ;  the  0.  a  O 
of  Joan  de  Mena,  Seville  edition  of 
1612.  The  Pregantaa  y  Beapoestaa 
known  aa  thoae  of  £1  Almirante  de 
OastiUa,  etc  ;  the  library  dd  8mi- 
nario  OomdUar  ia  only  beginning  to  be 
formed. 

Theatrea,  Fromenadea,  ate. — 7%a 
Nmo  ThMin  de  Lope  de  Yega  la  yeiy 


50G 


VIGO — BOUTEa 


pfettj  and  comfortable,  and  can  hold 
1800  spectaton ;  a  stall,  8r. ;  zannelaa, 
dances,  etc  The  older  theatre  is  indif- 
ferent 

The  Plam  de  Tar6$  holds  10,000 
spectators.  The  corridas  take  place 
during  the  flair  of  September,  between 
the  20th  and  80th  of  that  month. 

Oatino. — ^There  is  a  good  casino  and 
reading-room.  Trayellers  are  free  for  a 
month  on  introduction  by  a  member. 

The  Promenades  most  frequented  are 
Paseo  del  Espolon,  on  left  bank  of  the 
Pisnerga ;  it  is  the  fashionable  summer 
erening's  walk.  During  the  winter  the 
farourite  paseo  is  Accra  de  Becdetos, 
in  the  Gampo  Grande^  with  a  fountain 
crowned  by  a  statue  representing  For- 
tuna  Duplex. 

Oarrlaga  and  Omnibas  Hire^ — 
There  are  sereral  stands  of  carriages^ 
yeiy  decent^  and  with  good  motion. 


BytlMhoar— 

•• 

r. 

By  day    .... 

4 

By  night  .... 

6 

Bythecoone— 

By  day,  for  the  lint  hoar 

lO 

For  every  other  hour    . 

.       i8 

Flrom  twilight  to  midnight 

For  lint  hoar 

so 

le 

For  every  o0»er    . 

so 

Fhun  midnight  to  dnyfamk 

Every  hoar . 

se 

«4 

To  rftil,  etatioo  bdoded. 

Omm'hiin, 

r. 

For  Mai  perMP    . 

• 

e 

SmiU  pnroel  . 

• 

s 

Large     „     .       .       . 

• 

e 

Post  Oflloo.— FlasueU  de  los  Aroes. 
Ckmies  in  from  Madrid  at  8.20  jlh.  and 
leayes  for  Madrid  at  6.40  p.il  Cornea 
in  fix>m  Parish  Bey  Buigos^  north  of 
Spain,  at  7.20  p:m.  and  leayes  at  7.40 
A.  iL ;  send  letters  in  half -an-hour  before 
the  abore.  Open  from  8  to  1,  aaid  from 
4  to  6. 

Telegraph  Q^— -First  floor  of  Go* 
biemo  Civil. 

Direotoiy.  —  Dodare.  —  Qu^ano, 
CaUe  Dofta  Maria  de  Molina  ;  Alan,  in 
Plaxuek  de  San  Miguel,  both  well  re- 
commended. Apothecary.  —  Ruis,  in 
Calle  Santiaga  fi^JOMf.— Stampa,  21 
Plasa  de  U  Constitucion.  The  skins 
here  are  excellent,  and  they  are  yeiy 
cheap  and  lasting.  Library, — Juan 
NucTo.  J^iMs.— Calle  de  los  Esp^tos, 
closed  in  winter ;  also  rirer  baths  in 
summer,  cold  and  tepid.  Wtnee,  14' 
qewre. — Pasteleria  Suiza,  dose  to  the 
HdteldelNorte.  Try theold  BuedAwin^ 
which  will  some  day  become  a  &Tourite 
at  London  dinners. 

iS^i^Mfwiit^At.— C^Ue  de  PUterias  at  la 
Fama  de  la  Yiuda;  local  ear-rings,  etc. ; 
but  these  descendants  of  the  Arfes  are 
sadly  degenerated,  and  French  paootille 
isprefenred. 

Oaf6.— The  best  is  Caf4  Suiso. 

Botkt  tf  R^ftrmu.'—x.  'Oompendio  Hiito* 
lien  y  Dcacrip.  de  VaOndolid,'  with  cntnlogne 
oritsMineo(flcalptaresandpnintings):  VnBn- 
dolid(  PiMtor,  1843. 

a.  '  Notion  Hitfotkn  del  MoonateriodeSna 
Benito  el  Rcnl  de  ValUdoUd.' foL  MS.  Acnd. 
Hist  (G.  89.) 


VIQO. 

Vigo.  —  In  the  pvorinee  of  PoUte- 1  dUigenoe  senrice  to  Orense  (see  M«fl»K 
Tedra  (GalidA) ;  population,  11,282.        2i  days,  dafly,  same  (area.    Orense  to 

Vigo  by  Biyadayia,  16]  leagues ;  fares, 

BontM  and  CtonToyanoas.  1st.  700r.  (Tsry) ;  tim^  about  10  to  12 
Vrom  Madrid,  b7  rail  to  Astorga  by  hours.  The  road  has  been  recently  ra- 
Yalsncia  and  Leon,  whence  by  Sotillos'  I  paired,  and  is  Tery  practicaUa. 


yiOO — BOUTBS. 


007 


Orente  to  Riradavia 

PtWBl 

Vigo 


.    4l 

.    7 
.    4l 

i6 


The  roate  is  mkinterestiiig.  The 
prinoipftl  liTen  the  timyeller  meets  are 
the  Mi&o  on  leaving  Orense ;  Berban- 
tino,  doae  to  Berbantes;  the  Avia, 
which  gives  its  name  to  BiTadavia ; 
and  the  Tea,  near  Pnenteireas.  The 
Tillages  are  all  small  and  indifferent. 
BiTsdavia  is  piotoresquely  sitoated, 
and  has  a  pretty  bridge  of  three  arches 
on  the  AtU  ;  population,  1816. 

ad.   Vrom  Santiago.   Id  leagues. 


Santiago  to  PadfOD 

.     4 

CaldasdelRey     .       . 

.    3 

PoDtcvccura 

.      9- 

Pnento  San  Payo  . 

.      I 

RedondeU     .       .       . 

.     4 

Vigo                     • 

.    a 

i6 

This  route,  by  continuing  to  Tuy, 
and  ooming  back  to  Lugo,  is  a  pleasant 
tour  in  the  summer  months.  The 
oountry  is  charming.  Obserre  on  the 
road,  and  after  passing  the  hermitage 
of  N.  S.  de  la  EsdaTitud,  formerly  a 
sanctuary  for  criminals,  the  Pico  Sagro, 
a  conical  hill  of  crystallised  quarts. 
El  Padron  was  the  Boman  Irai  Flavia ; 
population,  8208.  Easter  Monday 
(Pasoua  de  Besurrecdon)  is  the  great 
Fiesta,  Feria,  and  Oattle  Fair.  It  was 
here  that^  according  to  tradition,  San- 
tiago's body  was  first  landed,  haying 
been  borne  hither  from  Joppa  in  a  boat, 
and  performing  the  journey  in  seren 
days  I  The  UUa  is  crossed  at  El 
Puente  de  Cesures  (Pons  OBsaris), 
built  by  the  Bomans,  and  rebuilt  in 
1161  for  the  psssage  of  pilgrims  from 
Portugal 

Caldoi  d$  Ji^.— Warm   mineral 


baths,  temperature  8S*  Bh. ;  excellent 
in  all  cutaneous  diseases.  Wretched 
accommodation.    Population,  1660. 

P&iiUvedfa, — Capital  of  the  prorince 
of  same  name ;  762S  inhabitants.  The 
Boman  Pons  Yetus  or  Duo  Pontes; 
suffragan  of  Santiago.  It  is  situated 
in  a  pleasant  Talley,  about  10  m.  in 
extent  Although  a  rery  ancient  dtjr, 
it  is  dean  and  pleasant ;  the  streeto 
well  payed  and  straight ;  the  alamedas 
pretty ;  the  Parador  Nuero  good.  It 
is,  or  rather  was  formerly,  a  yery 
aristocratic  town,  as  may  be  ga- 
thered from  the  armorial  shields  of 
some  almost  tenantless  old  houses. 
Visit  the  picturesque  arcaded  Plasa  de 
La  Teucro,  the  Gothic  church  of  Santa 
Clara.  The  religious  festiyals  of  the 
Blessing  of  the  Tea,  celebrated  October 
6th,  and  the  Buada  de  la  Peregrina, 
August  8th,  are  exceedingly  curious 
and  andent. 

The  scenery  between  Ponteyedra  and 
Bedondda  is  quite  charming ;  the  fields 
teem  with  fruit,  com,  maise,  yines^  and 
flax. 

B$dondila. — ^Tlus  small  dtjr  stands 
in  the  Bia  Tigo  ;  it  is  shdtared  bom 
the  Atlantic  1^  the  Islas  de  Bayooa. 
(The  latter  lies  4  leagues  from  Yi^ ;  is 
yery  old,  and  is  mentioned  by  Milton 
in  '  Lyddas.')  I  to  hams  are  cdebrated, 
and  Uie  French  Bayonne  jambom  are 
but  a  usurpation.  It  forms  a  yery  fine 
bay,  secure  and  shdtered ;  population, 
8400. 

Sd.  Vrom  Tnj  (pcoyinoe  of  Pon- 
teyedra). 


Tvy  to  PanBo 
Yigo 


a 
a 


TVy.— A  yery  andent  dty  (11,766 
inhabitanto),  and  mentioned  by  Pliny. 
In  700  ▲.!>.  it  was  the  reddenoe  of  the 
Qothio  king  Witisa,  and  aftsr  teysfal 


^08 


VIGO. 


reigna  was  destroyed  by  the  Moon  in 
716,  and  rebuilt  916  by  Ordo&o  I. 
For  its  country  and  climate  it  might  be 
named  the  Qalidan  Malaga;  and  the 
T^gas  teem  with  the  orange,  the  vine, 
(winefl  are  excellent  here),  and  com.  The 
climate  is  delicions ;  and  froit^  good 
meat^  salmon,  and  tront  aboimd.  The 
angler  should  explore  the  ATia,  Tea, 
and  Lonro.  The  sayalos,  mngQos, 
salmonetes,  etc.,  are  excellent  The 
cathedral  is  of  middle  of  12th  centoiy, 
and  has  all  the  appearance  of  a  castle 
as  well  as  a  church.  The  stalls  are 
fine,  the  cloisters  spacious  and  interest- 
ing. The  situation  of  Tuy  is  charming ; 
it  is  placed  on  a  plateau,  the  base  of 
which  is  washed  1^  the  waters  of  the 
Mifta  On  the  opposite  bank  is  the 
fortified  frontier  town  of  Yalenza, 
belonging  to  Portugal  A  museo  at 
Ck>l^^  da  San  Fernando,  with  books 
and  pictures. 

4th.  Vrom  Oronsa  by  Ponte- 
Tedra.  From  former  to  latter  only  16 
leagues  by  Msside.  This  new  ramal 
reaches  Msside  and  joins  the  Orense  to 
Yigo  road  not  far  from  Barbantes. 

6th.  From  Lugo*  Lugo  to  Santiago 
by  Mellid  and  Anna,  and  Santiago  to 
Yigo  «<  supra. 

6th.  Frmn  Ftrrol  and  U  ChrutUi,  see 
the  latter. 

7th.  From  ^anU$  (St  Nasaire) 
steamers  of  French  Oompagnie  Fluviale 
et  Maritime  erery  16th  at  12,  arriTC 
18th  ;  fores,  180  and  120fs. 

8th.  From  XMon,  Oporto,  OadtM, 
CfibraUar,  and  Mdiaga,  besides  ocoa- 
sional  steamers  whose  departures  are 
•duly  advertised  in  the  local  papers  and 
time-taUei^  the  abore  Frendi  com- 
pany run  a  regular  serrice  on  the 
8th,  18th,  and  88th  of  erery  month. 
Agents^  Tnpia  Hermanos,  12  Calls  del 
ArenaL 

Vigo,  though  ancient,  has  little  to 
interest  the  antiquary  ; '  Heureux  les  1 


peuples  qui  n'ont  pas  dlusioire  I  *  Al- 
though an  exception  to  the  latter,  il 
has  been  a  victim  to  its  position ;  has 
been  often  sacked,  and  its  bay  the  scene 
of  many  a  combat  An  English  fieet 
of  twenty-fiye  sail,  under  the  Duke  of 
Ormond,  Rooke^  and  Stanhope,  entered 
the  bay  October  22d,  1702 ;  and  not- 
withstanding the  fire  of  the  Spanish 
batteriei^  garrisoned  by  20,000  man, 
defeated  them,  captured  six  French 
and  five  Spanish  ^ps,  and  destroyed 
most  of  tiie  others.  The  bay  and 
town  were  taken  October  11,  1719,  by 
Lord  Cobham.  In  February  1809,  tha 
place  surrendered,  almost  without  a 
shot^  to  the  French  under  Frmnceschi ; 
but  was  retaken  March  27th  by  the  in- 
hmbitants  themselTes,  headed  by  a 
priest,  el  Abad.  de  YaUadarea. 

Yigo  eigoys  a  delicious  climate^  well 
suited  to  the  invalid,  and  not  auffi- 
ciently  studied  ss  yet  ss  a  medical 
station.  Its  bay  is  most  beautiAil. 
The  town,  rising  in  amphitheatre  on  the 
slopes  of  a  hUl,  with  its  gay  white- 
washed houses,  diversified  with  red  and 
green,  lies  amid  an  Oriental  scene  of 
palm,  ocange-groves,  flowers,  and  or- 
chards. The  bay  is  about  80  m.  deep^ 
and  narrows  between  the  headlands  of 
Banda  and  Bestias. 

The  castles  of  San  Sebastian  and  del 
Castro  crown  the  heights,  and  are 
intended  to  defend  tha  place ;  that  of 
San  Julian  is  also  a  »oi  ditani  defence. 
The  view  from  thoae,  especially  tha 
Castro^  is  truly  magnificent  The  old 
walls  and  gates,  ^  steeps  winding 
narrow  streets,  tiie  craft,  the  dress  cif 
the  peasants^  .the  rich  tints,  soft,  mel- 
low, and  violet  of  the  distant  hil]% 
serving  ss  background  to  the  town, 
convent^  Castillo,  and  road,-  as  seen 
from  the  bay,  all  are  well  worthy  of  an 
artist's  sketch-booL 

Thesi^^tsareindiflerent;  the  church 
is  modem,  of  the  classical  styl^  and. 


2ARAG0ZA— BOUTSa 


509 


though  rimple,  is  of  good  ptoportioiiay 
and  desenres  to  he  oompleted.  There 
•  ia  a  small  theatre,  and  channing  pro- 
menades hj  the  Pnerta  del  Placer  and 
Pnerta  del  SoL  Trade  Is  improring ; 
and  this  port,  a  rival  of  La  Conilia,  will 
some  da^  outstrip  it  in  prosperitjr>  espe- 
cially when  the  projected  and  approred 
railway  is  completed.  Now,  there  are 
ahont  800  ships  that  enter  the  port 
annually,  with  a  tonnage  of  86,000  to 
40, 000 ;  Uie  importation  and  exportation 
being  estimated  at  aboat  £120,000. 
ffoUU.—Za  ViMoadma,  on  the  Plasa; 


Letm  de  Oro,  on  the  market-place ;  and 
La  AlammoL  Villas  to  hire  in  the 
nei^bonrhood,  bat  where  anything 
like  comfort  mnst  not  be  expected. 

OonmU,'—H.B.M:$,  Yen  OiflTord 
Niohokfl^  Esq.;  UniM  8UUm  of 
Am$Hea,  Mr.  Robert  W.  Sanfelda ; 
B4iffiumf  Seftor  Joan  Hortega ;  JETam- 
5iffy,  W.  ML  Bazcena ;  /M^^  J.  D. 
Pkada 

Bo^  0/  R^fortmet,  K«»»'DMcripcioa 
Topognphica.'  'HiMorica  de  k  C  de  Vigo, 
to  Ria,'  «lc,  bjr  Taboada  j  Leal;  Saaliato, 
CompiJkl,  1841.    4ta,  with  a 


ZARAQOZA. 


iSVM.— Capital  of  the  prorince  of  the 
same  name.  Bishop's  see.  Oaptaincy- 
General  of  Aragon ;  population,  67,428 
(1861). 

Boutas  and  OonTOTaaoes.— 1.  From 
JTcMlritf  I7  raO,  time  10)  to 
16  hrs.  (according  to  trains) ; 
two  trains  a-day.  At  Ma- 
drid, station  Puerta  de  Atocha.  Farea : 
1st  cl,  160r.  26c. ;  2d  cL,  116r.  60c 
i^.i^.— Erery  class  admitted  by  all 
traina  up  and  down ;  distance,  841  kiL 
Of  the  t&e  mentioned,  about  80  min. 
are  spent  at  station  of  Oalatayud.  For 
details  of  road  see  Madrid;  2d,  from 
Baycmiuhy  Zaaragomg, 

2.  From  BarteUma,  12  hrs.  47  min. 
(see  BarctiUma,  2).  N.B.—Th^  rail- 
way time  is  that  of  Barcelona,  which 
is  based  on  the  Ummpo  medio. 

8.  From  A^ohms,  see  MadHd  2, 
from  BayonmM  by  Zaragoaa.  From 
JPiamplona  by  rail  6  hrs.  16  min.,  three 
trains  a-day ;  distance,  179  IdL  Farea : 
1st  cL,  79r. ;  2d  cL,  69r.  76c. 

4.  From  FaUnda  by  Daroca  and 
Teruel ;  40  hrs.  ;  offices,  Postas  de 
Aragon,  on  the  Coso  (see  Valencia), 

6.  OdnveyafHcei  to  and  from  AlmuiUa^ 
by  diligence,  2  hrs.,  erery  other  day  ; 
offices,  P]asa  de  la  Constitucion.   Ckiip$ 


bjdiL  erery  other  day,  12  hrs.;  offices, 
Plasa  del  Pikr.  From  Oaspe  a  diL 
serrice  to  Escatnm,  whence  by  paa- 
sage  boats  snd  steamers^  on  the  Canal 
Imperial,  to  Mequinensa,  Tortosa,  and 
Amposta ;  badserrice^  irregular.  Bofja 
ereiy  other  day,  7  hrs.  dH ;  office, 
Plasa  del  Carmen,  OasaSalda&a.  BaiM§ 
of  La  JStda,  to  station  of  Olesa,  rail  to 
Barcelona,  whence  by  diL  6  hrs. 
CbHM«fia  (great  wine  produce)  by  the 
compsny  Postas  de  Aiagon,  dfl.  (to 
Valencia). 

6«  From  JVNTOi^ofia.— Fnuu  Tura- 
gona  to  Yimbodi,  by  rail,  2  hrs. ;  dis- 
tanc^  66  kil.  Farea:  1st  cL,  26r.  47a  ; 
2d  cL,  21r.  81c  At  Yimbodi,  diL  ser- 
Tice  in  attendance  to  Lorida  station 
on  the  Barcelona  to  Zaragon  line; 
whence  by  rail  to  latter  in  about  6  his. 
Take  tickets  throughout  Farea :  1st 
cL,  78r.  26c;  2d  cL,  66r.;  8d  cL, 
40r.  26c  At  Lerida  a  good  French 
buffet,  extortionate 

Desoription  of  Boute  from  Tar- 
ragona.-—The  road  to  Yillaseca  is  most 
picturesque  and  pleasant 

Bona.— A  small,  but  yeiy  thriTing 
manufacturing  town,  28,166  souls.  In 
prorince  of  Tarragona ;  one  league 
from  the  Puerto  de  SaloUt  one  of  the 


510 


ZARAGOZA — BOtrrBS. 


•ifatt  ports  in  that  ooMt»  with  an  ez- 
eellent  bottom  and  sheltered  from  the 
Leranter ;  the  principal  ohjeeti  of  trade 
and  mannfactnre  are  siUci  and  cotton. 
The  Tiew  from  the  Church  of  San  Pedro 
is  extensire  and  fine.  Bens  is  the 
title  giTen  in  1848  to  Qeneral  Prim, 
one  of  the  genenJs  of  the  last  Mo- 
rocco ezcorsion,  and  more  snccesifiil 
as  a  sabreor  than  as  a  diplomatist  (vide 
hit  Mexican  diplomatic  campaign). 
There  are  upwards  of  100  large  factories 
worked  by  steam,  one  of  which  em- 
ploys 600  workmen. 

Montblanoh. — 1200  inhabitants ;  in 
a  fertQe  plain  watered  by  the  Francoli, 
and  giidled  by  ancient  crombling 
walls  snd  gates.  A  few  miles  from  it, 
at  the  entrance  of  a  sweet  Talley  called 
'  La  Conca  de  Barbera,'  is  the  dilapi- 
dated and  ndnous  bat  most  interesting 
oonyent  of  '  Poblet,'  foonded  5th  cen- 
tnry  by  Bamon  Berengoer,  once  the 
Esoorial  of  the  kings  of  Aragon,  whose 
bodies  haye  been  not  long  ego  remored 
to  the  cathedral  of  Tarragona.  The 
villages  of  Esplnga,  Jnna,  Hartega,  etc., 
between  this  and  Lerida,  are  all  unin- 
teresting. On  this  portion  of  the  road 
the  railway  works  are  actively  con- 
tinned. 

Iierida. — Capital  of  prorinoe  of  same 
name ;  on  right  bank  of  the  Segre ;  po- 
palation,  19,667  (1861).  ffotsU.—JPHh 
$ada  eU  Sam  Luii  and  dd  HotpitdL  A 
Boman  Mnnidpiam,  and  much  patron- 
ised by  the  Goths,  who  raised  it  to  a 
bishopric,  ▲.!>.  646,  and  held  here  a  cele- 
brated conndL  The  town,  which  con- 
sists chiefly  of  one  long  winding  street, 
is  destitute  of  genend  interest  Eodesi- 
ologists  will,  howeyer,  do  well  not  to 
omit  a  Tisit  Chwrtk  (f  San  Juan, — 
Bysantine ;  obsenre  especially  the 
principal  portal  (8.) ;  some  portions  of 
it  offer  very  interesting  specimens  of 
the  architecture  of  the  12th  century. 
Lerida's  name  said  to  come  ttom  Celtic 


Q  vt  kU^  city  or  fortress ;  snd  ard  m 
wd^  a  height  Made  by  OctaTius 
Cbsar  a  municipium,  and  flourished 
much  under  Bmperors  of  Bome,  and 
sorrendered  to  Monna  and  Tarik  in 
716 ;  retalEen  by  Ludorieo  Pio's  troops 
in  9th  century;  retaken  by  Moon, 
who  kept  it  till  1149,  when  Berenguer 
lY.  recaptured  it  It  has  been  often 
sacked  and  besieged,  a  reason  why  sc 
many  of  its  audent  monuments  no 
longer  exist 

The  aneieni  CkUhsdral—Then  are 
Testiges  still  here,  and  most  magnifi- 
cent, of  the  Byzantine  and  semi-Moorish 
architecture  in  Spain,  which  render  it 
a  Tcry  interesting  si^^t  The  front  is 
Gothic ;  the  statues  of  the  apostles  that 
are  wanting^  and  the  Virgin  to  place  in 
the  pillar  dividing  the  door,  are  to  be 
seen  in  the  small  diureh  of  San  Pablo^ 
but  are  worth  little.  By  a  curious  ex- 
ception the  cloisters  precede  the  church 
itself  and  are  interesting,  Byzantine^ 
and  evidencing  much  Moorish  gusta 
The  church  is  a  Latin  cross,  with  a 
dmborio  in  centre,  and  large  apsis  at 
the  end.  At  each  end  of  the  transept 
is  a  portada—that  to  N.  is  purely  1^- 
xantine.  This  church  is  now  a  store- 
house and  barracks,  and  became  jo  when 
Lerida  w;^  taken  by  the  troops  of  Philip 
v.,  and  the  storeys  were  made  with 
walls  and  partitiona.  It  has  three 
naves  ;  the  capitals  of  the  columns  are 
a  perfect  and  complete  study  of  the  By- 
zantine-Gothio  ornament,  grecas^  mon- 
sters, serpents^  curious  combinations  of 
leaves.  There  is  a  great  deal  of  the 
crypt  about  this  portion— such  as  the 
low,  heavy,  denuded,  damp  roof,  the 
low  baseless  pillars,  the  dubious  light, 
etc  The  windows  are  Byzantine  and 
almost  unique  in  Spain,  and  daily  be- 
coming rarer  to  meet  with.  The  Gothic 
seems  to  spring  from  a  happy  oombina- 
tion  of  Byzantine -Moorish.  The  S. 
door  of  transept  is  of  an  original  and 


ZARAGOZA. 


511 


qnaiDt  stjle.  Obsenre  the  semidrcalar 
arch,  doable  cylinden,  Toy  deeply  re- 
cessed, restmgonpiDtn,  withfkntssticftl 
snimaiB  on  the  capitils  and  arabesques 
and  rope-work.  Orer  the  door  an  in- 
scription in  mtgnscole  Byzantine-Qothio, 
containing  beginning  of  the  Yiigin's 
Salutation  and  the  date  1216.  This 
portada  is  crowned  hj  a  cornice  with 
Auitastic  figures  and  sculptured  heads. 
The  best  portion  of  this  cathedral  is  the 
great  latnal  portal  called  dels  Fillols, 
or  Infantes,  dose  to  Chapel  de  Jesus ; 
it  is  wide  and  lofty,  composed  of  nume- 
rous arches  with  many"  details.  The 
cornice  and  ererything  else  is  full  of 
details  and  patterns,  semi  -  Moorish, 
Byzantine,  and  partly  Gothic^  and  most 
interesting  possible. 

This  ancient  cathedral  was  begun 
July  1208  by  Pedro  L  the  CathoUc, 
and  was  consecrated  in  1278.  The 
architect  is  said  by  some  to  hmve  been 
one  Pedro  Dercumba,  as  appears  on  a 
slab  placed  between  the  Presbytery 
and  the  transept  The  cloisters  were 
erected  for  and  under  Amaldo  Ges- 
oomes;  Bishop  of  Lerida  in  the  14th 
century.  At  the  taking  of  Lerida,  un- 
der ndlip  y.,  the  French  Governor 
d'Aubign^  sacked  the  cathedral,  de- 
stroyedthemagnificentepiscopal  palace, 
etc.  In  1769  Charles  III.  granted  to 
the  chapter  a  site  for  the  new  cathedral, 
and  240,000r.  a-year  until  its  comple- 
tion, 'i^e  actual  one  is  Grseco-Roman, 
grandiose,  lofty,  consiBting  of  three 
naves,  the  choir  in  the  centre,  with 
goodish  sculpture,  and  numerousdiapels 
on  the  sides.  It  was  designed  by  Cer- 
meAo  and  Sabatini ;  the  altars  by  Juan 
Aden,  an  R.A.  who  came  on  purpose 
from  Italy.  The  choir  is  by  Boni&ce, 
and  imlifferent  The  Corinthian  order 
has  been  strictly  observed  throughout 

In  the  sacristy  of  the  new  cathedral, 
among  other  relics,  are  kept  Christ's 
swaddling-clothes,  sent  by  Saltan  Sala- 


din  to  the  king  of  Tunis,  1288,  whence 
a  Lerida  captive  woman  saw  it^  and 
quietly  robbkig  it—'  il  est  aveo  le  del 
des  accommodaDents* — sent  itto  Bishop 
Geraldo.  Lerida  is  the  second  town 
in  Catalnlia,  and  is  on  the  highway  to 
prosperity,  thanks  to  the  railway. 
From  Lerida  to  Zaragosa,  see  ^ofvstoNa. 

Zaragoia. 

no%elM.-~ItdUl  d4  V  Vfdimn,  well 
dtuated,  dose  to  the  two  cathedrals ;  a 
newly -bmlt  establishment  containing 
107  rooms,  comfortably  ftimiahed,  and 
several  with  fire-places;  aFrendicook; 
charges  moderate ;  8r.  a  bed-room  ;  5 
to  6  fir.  a  dtting-room.  Table  d'hote 
breakfkst  at  11  o'dock,  2  fir. ;  toble 
d'hote  dinner  at  6  clock,  8  pesetas. 
French  papers  taken  in ;  tolerable 
French  and  local  wines. 

Fimda  de  JSwopa, — On  the  Goto; 
better  aspect  and  gayer  than  former ; 
kept  by  Swiss  Italians;  better  cooking; 
most  dvil  people;  indifferently  fur- 
nished, and  service  not  good ;  same 
charges.  There  are  besides  several  third- 
rate  inns,  the  most  decent  of  which 
are  Cuatro  Nadones  and  Yiicaina. 

Climate.— The  climate  ii  generally 
wholesome,  but  the  weather  changes 
suddenly,  and  is  variable,  owing  to  tiie 
proximity  of  the  Moncayo  hilla^  and 
the  range  of  Sierra  de  Guars,  from 
which  the  winds  are  icy,  and  the  ther^ 
mometer,  when  they  blow,  often  falls 
8  to  10  degrees  Bh.  Mortality-tobies 
are  1 .80  and  1. 81,  old  age  being  uncom- 
i^on.  The  most  firequent  illnesses  are 
pneumonia,  catarrh,  etc,  and  during  the 
summer,  intermittent  fevers.  The  most 
prevalent  wind  is  the  cold  W.  or  Cierzo^ 
which  lasts  sometimes  very  long.  That 
which  comes  from  the  E.  is  called 
Bochomo,  and  is  very  warm  (whence 
abochomado) ;  that  from  S.  is  the 
Castdlano,  and  the  N.  is  called  the 
Solano.    'The  water  ii  brackish,  wliencs 


512 


ZARAGOZA. 


the  load  aajiDg,  '  Mas  oomemot  de  lo 
qne  hebemot ' — i,$, '  we  tai  our  drink.' 

M«an  annual  bnrom.  prcanire              .  74*>96 

((        If        tcnpefatoTS  '5*7 

Miyhnnm  temperature  (Aug.  15)  44.4 

Mininuim          „           (J«n-  »3)  3-« 

Number  of  rainy  dayi .       ...  6a 

Quantity  fidlen     ....  364.3 

Genend  Daeoription.— Zaragon  ia 
pleasantly  situated  in  one  of  the  mo^ 
fertile  Tegas  in  Aragon,  watered  by  the 
'EtftOf  Gallego^  Jalon  ('qui  fernim 
gelat')  and  the  Hnerba.  The  ooontiy 
aroond  is  stadded  with  oUre-groTes, 
whose  dark,  melancholy  foliage  con- 
trasts with  the  whitewashed  and  gay- 
looking  Tillaa.  Time-honoored  Zara- 
goca,  ^  stronghold  of  the  prond  and 
independent  Aragonese^  the  &Toared 
dty  of  Santiago,  and  'patronised  by 
the  Yiigin— who  lisited  it  occasionally 
herseli^  and  bestowed  npon  it  and  its 
prorince  all  manner  of  blessings  and 
especial  mercies' — is  one  of  the  cities  in 
Spain  which,  firom  their  out-of-the-way 
situation  and  other  canses,  hmre  pre- 
senred  all  their  charming  peeoliar 
eouliwr  loeaU,  and  pristine  character. 
There  are  bat  yeiy  few  and  unimport- 
ant restiges  of  the  Roman  period ;  the 
Gotiia  hmve  likewise  left  Imt  shadows 
of  their  rule  and  time  ;  but  the  spirit 
of  the  Moor  and  medisyal  Spaniard 
remains,  and  that  quaint  and  charming 
style  of  architecture  —  Tis.  the  Ara- 
gonese  pUteresque— which  arose  firom 
the  amalgamation  of  both  races^  is 
here  exhibited  in  serend  bnfldings,  and 
more  especially  in  prirate  houses. 
The  numerous  patios  decorated  with 
fountains  and  flower-Tsses ;  the  nanow 
and  winding  lanes  (a  system  9f  defence 
both  against  man  and  heat) ;  the  richly- 
carred  soiBts  and  painted  rafters  ;  the 
Tari^gated  coloured  tfles  on  some  Imfld- 
ings  snd  domes ;  the  yeiy  inhabitants, 
whose  fiery  features,  with  the  yet 
melancholy,  dreamy  eye,  tawny  aUn, 


bare  sinewy  legs,  arms,  and  chest, 
their  handkerchieb  tnrbaned  round 
their  ezpressiTe  heads,  and  the  manta 
loosely  thrown  across  their  shoulder — 
all  bespeak  the  long  dominion  of  the 
Berber  (rather  than  the  Moor),  and 
hmye  a  most  striking  snd  norel  sppear^ 
anoe  to  the  tourist  who  comes  from 
France.  This  dd-foshioned  dty  will, 
moreoTcr,  interest  the  tourist  by  its 
monuments  and  edifices,  the  Pilar,  the 
Seo,  and  its  orientd  Torre  Nuera  and 
Tenerable  Loig»— all  of  which  may  be 
seen  in  one  day. 

In  another  and  more  podtire  sense, 
Zaragosa  is  dull,  backward  ;  and  booka 
and  sdenoe  are  here,  together  with 
trade  and  manufactures,  among  thingi 
utterly  unknown  or  neglected;  but 
the  railway,  which  places  it  on  the 
high  and  most  direct  road  between 
the  Mediterranean  and  the  Atlantic, 
will,  let  us  hope,  dter  things,  and  shed 
prosperity  and  the  light  of  the  age 
on  tiUs  somewhmt  gloomy  and  ailent 
dty. 

Historioal  Kotioa.— The  monkish 
historians  of  that  hmppy  age,  when  those 
who  were  not  called  upon  to  break  each 
other's  heads  found  leisure  to  patar  $1 
nUo  in  cool  doiiters,  if  such  was  their 
pleasure,  and  make  that  nilotheir  whole 
life,  were  often  wcmt  to  amuse  them- 
sdyes  and  their  few  readers  with  idle 
researches  de  r$  $eihili,  but  more  espe- 
cially et  qitibuadam  aUii,  and  thus 
hare— not  grardy,  we  think— asserted 
that  Zaragoza  was  founded  by  Noah's 
nephew  Tubal,  in  the  year  248  po§t 
dil%»9iwmt  omitting  to  state  the  month, 
day,  and  hour.  But  whether  Salduba, 
its  former  namc^  means  in  Chddaio 
the  property  of  Tubal,  or  City  of  the 
Sun,  we  can  only  state  that  its  stra- 
tegical importance^  as  it  commands  the 
passage  of  the  Rbro^  did  not  fidl  to 
attract  the  Soman's  eye,  that  Omst 
Augustus  walled  it  in,  granting  to  it 


ZABAGOZA. 


613 


besides  the  tdTuitsges  of  a  CMmUa 
imtmmU,  snd  qmrt^iiig  here  seyenl 
legions  to  watch  oyer  the  importtnt 
•ad  troaUesome  Roman  proTinoes  of 
Kdetania,  •  Oeltiberia,  and  Vaaconia. 
It  then  was  called  Ogsarea-Angnsta ; 
which  the  Moors  oonTerted  into  Sara- 
costa,  to  become  flnallj  Zengon. 
Taken  by  the  SneTi,  nnder  Becchario, 
in  452,  and  from  these  by  the  Goths, 
in  466,  the  dtj  in  the  8th  century 
fell  an  easy  prey  into  the  eager  hands 
of  the  Berber  Tazik,  who  made  it  the 
stronghold  and  capital  of  his  eastern 
dominions,  and  waged  war  against 
the  Khalif  of  CkMrdota.  In  777  the 
Sheik,  Snleyman  ben  Alarabi,  sent 
Oassim  ben  Ynssnf  to  Paderboni,  and 
implored  the  aid  of  Charlemagne,  the 
great  KarOldi,  who,  seizing  this  oppor- 
tonity  of  acquiring  territories  in  Spain 
and  crashing  the  infidel,  rushed  into 
Spain  headlong  like  a  torrent  by  the 
defiles  of  Iba&eta  and  Altabiscar,  bat, 
on  the  general  rising  of  the  Berbers 
against  him,  had  to  retire,  and  lost 
most  of  his  Frank  caralry  at  Bonces- 
Ta]le%  where  the  Basques  rushed  out 
of  their  dens  on  the  foe,  uttering  the 
Ir-rimi  war-cry.  CMl  war  ensued, 
till  Seif*el-Daul4h  surrendered  the 
town  to  Alfonso-el-Batallador  (1118)^ 
after  a  si^  which  lasted  fire  years. 
Under  the  kings  of  Aragon,  Zaragoza 
was^  alternately  with*  Huesca,  the 
capital  of  the  kingdom,  until  the 
marriage  of  its  king,  Ferdinand  II., 
with  Isabella  of  Ga8till^  when  both 
theee  kingdoms  were  united.  (For 
more  detailB,  see  Aragcn,)  In  modem 
times,  Zaragoza  has  been  the  scene  of 
strife  and  destruction,  and  its  name  is 
associated  in  the  annals  of  the  Penin- 
sular war  with  one  of  the  most  cele- 
brated sieges  any  dtjr  has  eyer  sus- 
tained. On  its  first  rising,  in  1808, 
against  the  French,  General  Lef^rre 
Desnouettes  besieged  the  town,  assert- 


2  I. 


ing  he  would  soon  reduce  it,  '  ma]gr4 
les  80,000  idiots  qui  s'y  opposeraient ;' 
but  his  mHitaiy  skill  prored  of  no 
aTail  against  th»  testarudo  (headstrong) 
Aragonese,  who,  HI  proTided  as  they 
were  with  arms  and  ammunition,  con- 
trired  to  succeed  in  repelling  erory 
attack,  obliging  the  besieging  army 
finalfy  to  withdraw.  The  second  siege 
begin  December  SI,  1808,  when  a 
formidable  army  (18,000  men),  under 
Moncqr,  Lannes,  Junot,  and  Mortier, 
well  supplied  with  si^  artillery, 
made  their  appearance^  and  instantiy 
commenced  the  attack.  The  defences 
of  the  town  consisted  of  some  ill-pro- 
Tisioned  forts^  hurriedly  repaired,  on 
the  Ebro  and  Huerba,  and  its  0ne$imt4 
consisted  of  a  wall  8  ft.  thick,  and 
10  ft.  to  12  ft  high.  Then  was  within 
it  no  organised  army ;  no  establiahed 
goremment ;  and  the  sole  anthcrities 
which  the  people  would  obey  were  some 
stout  peasants  elected  by  them  for  the 
oocasion,  and  young  Palafoz,  a  hand- 
some but  not  an  intelligent  officer  of 
the  king's  body-guard,  who  was  an  kifo 
of  Zaragoza,  and,  moreoTer,  as  bold  as 
any.  The  siege  lasted  sixty-two  days 
of  constant  attack  and  resistance,  when 
<  war  to  the  knife,'  'Guerraalcuchillo,' 
Zaragoza  no  se  rinde,'  etc,  were  the 
Spartiato  dogged  answers  of  the  besieged 
to  any  proposal  of  c^tulation  on 
honourable  terms.  Famine  was  m^lring 
sad  haroc  among  the  defenders,  erery 
house  became  an  hospital ;  and  yet  the 
hungered,  emaciated  peasant,  under  the 
drunkennessofareligious  feeling,  actire- 
ly  kept  up  by  the  example  and  words  of 
tiie  priests,  who  were  fighting  for  their 
golden  reliquaries  and  power,  went  one 
after  another  firing  his  eeoopeta  or 
blunderbuss,  whilst  houses  were  crumb- 
ling down  in  all  directions,  and  the 
deafening  roar  of  the  cannon  and  ito 
Tirid  fleshes  made  the  scene  fiendish. 
The  city  was  maddened  with  patriotism 


514 


ZABAQOZA. 


and  hatred  of  the  foreigner,  and  there 
waa  inanlting  ainging  and  dancing  about 
the  atreeta,  and  prooeadona  to  ii»  Yir- 
gen  del  Pilar,  who  waa  proclaimed  cap- 
tain-generaL  Heroiam  waa  the  nanal 
nature  of  erery  man,  naj  of  women 
also^  who  played  a  prominent  part  in 
thedefence^  and  were  headed  by  Agua- 
tina,  a  very  pretty  girl  aged  only  22, 
and  poaaesBing  the  aofteat  atyle  of  femi- 
nine beauty.  She  fought  ride  by  aide 
with  her  loTer,  an  artilleiyman,  and 
when  he  fell  mortally  wounded  ahe 
worked  the  gun  heraelf. 

Ye  who  dttU  manrel  when  you  hear  her  tale. 
Oh  I  had  yoo  known  her  in  her  aofter  hoar, 
Maik'd  her  hbck  eye  that  mocfca  her  coal- 
black  TeQ, 
Heard  her  light,  lively  tones  in  lady's  bower. 
Seen  herlooclodcs  that  foil  the  painter'spower. 
Her  tiSxf  ium,  with  won  than  female  grao^ 
Scarce  would  you  deem  that  ZmngouL*%  tower 
Beheld  her  an^  in  danger's  Gorgon  fecc^ 
Thin  the  dosed  Fanks,''and  lead  in  glory's  fear- 
ful chase. 

Her  knrer  dnks— ehe  sheds  no  ill-timed  tear  ; 
Her  chief  is  slain— she  fills  his  fetal  post : 
Her  fellows  flee— she  chedcs  their  base  career : 
The  foe  retires— she  heads  the  sallying  host ; 
Who  can  appease  like  her  a  level's  ghost! 
Who  can  avenge  so  wdl  a  leader's  fellf 
What  maid  retrieve  when  man's  flush'd  hope 

ishMtf 
Who  hang  so  fierody  on  die  flying  Gaul, 
Poil'd  by  a  woomn's  hand,  before  a  battec'd 

waUf 

Yet  are  Spaing  maids  no  net  of  Amaaooi^ 
But  formed  fer  all  the  witching  arts  of  lov«. 

In  ioftnesB  as  in  firmness  fer  above 
Remoter  females,  femed  fer  sirlrening  prate ; 
Her  mind  Is  ndder  sure,  her  diarms  perrhanre 


CUJU^  ^orvA/,  Cantos  hr.  hL  Ivil 

Aguatina'a  portrait  waa  painted  by 
Wnide. 

At  length,  and  after  aereral  deaperate 
aanulti^  10,000  French  mahed  into 
the  town,  frenzied  with  the  direftil  ro- 
aiatance.  The  aiege  continued  in  the 
atreet,  on  the  roofe  of  houaea,  in  the 
cellan ;  ereryhouae  became  a  fortreaa; 
the  beUa  of  Torre  Kueya  rang  when- 


eyer  the  watchman  deaeiied  that  a  gun 
waa  about  to  be  fired ;  at  that  ftmereal 
aound  dancera  and  aingera  would  ceaae 
on  the  Coao^  the  people  kneel,  croaaing 
themaelTea;  and  the  ezplodon  orer, 
reaume  their  aublime  folly,  or  ruah  to 
the  mock  ramparta  and  take  the  place 
of  thoae  who  had  fallen.  15,000  were 
now  dead  or  dying ;  Ptdafox  bedridden 
and  delirioua ;  and  aa  an  inatanoe  of 
the  leaiatance,  fifty  guna  aoaroely  auf • 
floed  to  reduce  a  oouTent  which  had  to 
be  aaaaulted.  The  old  building  of  the 
UniTcraity  burnt  like  a  helliah  bonfire. 
The  combat  in  the  atreeta  continued 
for  twentjr-one  daya;  but  finally,  *]e 
21  f(Syrier,  (1809)'  writea  H  Thiera, 
'10,000  fantaaaina,  2000  cayaliera, 
pttea,  maigrea,  abattua,  difil^rent 
dcTant  noa  aoldati  aairia  de  piti^ 
Ceux-ci  entrb«nt  enauite  dana  la  <M 
infortun^  qui  ne  pr^aentait  que  dea 
ruinea  rempliea  de  cadavrea  en  putr^feo- 
tion.'  The  Junta  had  at  laat  agreed  to 
aurrender,  but  on  the  moat-honourable 
terma.  Thua  ended  a  aiege  which  haa 
few  paralleU  in  ancient  or  modem  time% 
aare  in  Spain  herself^  that  dura  teilus, 
who  gare  other  and  aa  great  examplea 
at  Saguntnm,  Kumantia,  Calahonra, 
etc 

•  Bighta.  —  Cathedral  of  La  Seo^ 
Cathedral,  del  POar,  Loi^a,  Tom 
NncTa,  Ayaferia,  minor  chuicheai  and 
priTate  houaea. 

C|f  €it|ctfil— Xa  Sio;  itt  BUtory,-^ 
The  See,  Sedea,  and  here  from  the 
Limouain  Sen,  ia  the  name  applied  in 
CataluBa  and  Aragon  to  all  tiie  cathe- 
dral ehurohea.  Thui^  La  Sen  de  Uigel, 
delfanreaa,  Baroekma,  etc.  Zaragoaa 
poaaeaaea  two  cathedral^  of  which  the 
preaent  oneia  theearlieat.  Theantiquitjr 
of  thia  aerere^  aombre^  and  noUe  pile  ia 
great,  f<v  it  already  eziated  in  290, 
when  ita  biahop  waa  St  Yalcrio.  It 
waa  turned  by  the  Berbera  into  their 
principal  moaque,  to  return  to  ita  for* 


ZARiLGOZA— CATHSDBAL. 


510 


mer  otjaet  in  1119,  when  the  cathedral 
WM  oonaeented  to  the  Smonr.  Oon- 
dderable  lepein  and  enlaigement  of 
portione  now  b^gan,  but  progreaeed 
yery  ilowly  thr<ragh  want  of  tanda. 
Indeed,  In  the  aappoeed  offm  o/fitUhf 
faith  wu  somewhat  leluotant  to  give 
up  any  mon^  for  its  own  anpport  and 
that  of  the  dergy,  and  it  wu  only 
after  centnriee  of  ordained  limoanaa, 
taxes  on  food,  land  rerenae,  etc., 
that  the  cathedrals,  whioh  we  now- 
a-days  repair  in  a  hw  years  through 
Yolontary  ^bsoriptions,  were  bnilt 
or  enlsiged.  Thus  Bishop  Pedro 
Fam^  had  to  apply  to  Clement 
III.  (1188)  to  enforce  and  generalise 
the  good  and  pioos  habit  of  donations, 
bequests,  etc  ;  anathemas  wera  pro- 
nounced against  those  who  should  resist 
or  in  any  way  oppose  the  measure. 
About  1818  the  central  nave  was  built, 
and  the  two  lateral  ones  rose  up  not 
long  after.  Towards  the  end  of  the 
16^  century  the  foundations  partly 
gare  way,  and  to  remedy  the  eVil  the 
greatest  architects  of  the  day  wera 
called  to  meet  the  emergency ;  thus 
Enrique  de  I^  came  from  Toledo, 
Barcelona  despatched  Juan  Font,  etc 
The  dmborio  was  rabuUt,  but  not  com- 
pleted till  1520.  By  the  sdvioe  and 
with  the  protection  of  Archbishop 
Fernando  de  Aragon,  who  considered 
that  the  church  was  too  wide  for  its 
length,  two  rows  of  arches  were  sdded 
(1650)  to  each  of  the  flye  nayes. 

8tyU  and  PnportUmi.—Tht  edifice 
hss  preserved  but  few  and  unimportant 
yestiges  of  the  original  period.  The 
apse,  and  portions  around  it,  the  two 
Byzantine  windows  towards  the  Archie- 
piicopal  Palace,  etc,  eiempUQr  the 
style  of  that  epoch  ;  the  Hooridi  art 
has  had  no  influence  and  left  no  traces 
here  The  exterior  is  of  different  styles. 
The  interior,  althouc^  dating  of  the 
14th,  15th,  and  16th  centuries,  is  not 


wanting  in  homogeneitjr,  the  &ol  being 
easfly  explained  by  the  general  rspain 
that  it  underwent  in  the  15th  centuiy ; 
and  the  general  style  is  Gothic 

Jfastorior.— The  8eo^  or  Salyad^,  is 
situated  in  a  large  squara  to  the  rij^t 
of  the  arohieplsoopal  palace,  and  almost 
opposite  to  the  sombre^  time-honoured,* 
and  yery  charaoteristio  Loi^a.  ^he 
first  impression,  and  indeed  the  last 
(of  the  facade),  is  unlayourablc  The 
style  belongs  to  that  pseudo-classical 
ciJled  Omco-Roman,  and  disfigures 
the  entrance  to  this  noble  old  Gothic 
basflica.  Corinthian  pillan  decorate 
the  first  portion ;  and  aboye^  in  niches, 
ara  placed  the  statues  of  88.  Peter  and 
Paul  on  the  sides  of  an  effigy  of  the 
Sayiour.  This  is  the  work  of  one 
Julian  Yarsa,  who  put  it  up  about 
1688,  the  statues  by  GiraL  Obserye 
hera  and  then  the  portions  of  original 
Moorish  brick-work  which  haye  escaped 
the  classical  mania,  and  mora  especially 
the  Cmx  of  the  wall  at  the  N.E.  angle; 
the  Bomanesqne  or  Byzantine  lower 
portion  of  the  apse,  and  seyeral  of  the 
buttreases.  The  Tower  is  octangular, 
lofty,  diyided  into  three  stsges,of  dassi- 
calstyl^  and  decorated  with  Corinthian 
piDan  and  allegorical  statues,  sll  the 
work  of  Juan  Bantista  Contini,  1686, 
who  was  aided  by  natiye  seulpton  and 
architects.  The  statues  of  1700  an  by 
one  AralL  It  is  light,  not  wanting  in 
elegance,  but  quite  out  of  keeping  with 
the  character  of  the  buHding.  It  was 
struck  by  lij;htning  in  1850,  when  the 
upper  portion  was  destroyed.  The 
other  tower  was  dmgntdf  but  is  un- 
finished, and  wHl,  it  is  to  be  hoped,  re^ 
main  always  so.  The  facade  and  Puerta 
de  la  Payc^eria  ara  better,  plateresque, 
not  wanting  in  elegance ;  and  with  a 
noble  loiga.  It  is  the  work  of  the 
Moorish  artist  Al-Bami,  and  dates  about 
1498. 

/fUmor.— The  entrance  is  nnfortn 


616 


ZARiLGOZA.— OATHSDRAU 


nately  placed  in  an  an^^eof  the  edifice, 
the  choir  Uooking  np  the  central 
nave ;  these  two  d^eeti  contribute  to 
darken  the  interior,  mar  the  general 
Tista,  and  diminiah  the  apparent  aize ; 
and  yet  the  effect  ia  grand,  eren  when 
seen  after  other  and  laiger  Spanish 
chorohea.  It  looks  broader  than  long^ 
hatf  two  aisles  on  each  side  of  the  naye^ 
and  chapels  between  the  buttresses. 
There  is  great  soberness  of  ornamenta- 
tion, excepting  the  chapels,  aiiy  light- 
ness abont  the  pillars^  which  are  of  the 
purest  Gothic,  and  great  loftiness  and 
boldness.  Ceremonies  of  great  import- 
ance, state,  and  splendour,  hare  teken 
place  here ;  and  this  was  the  Bheims  of 
Aragon,  where  its  kings  were  anointed 
and  crowned.  Solemn  Jnras  of  cortes, 
watches  or  Teladaa  of  knights  postu- 
lants, the  Christmas  mass  sidd  by  Pope 
Benedict  XIII.  in  1410,  etc  ;  and  in 
1487  the  Christmas  religious  perform- 
ance in  the  preaence  of  Ferdinand  and 
laabella,  when  a  myfffiy  was  acted,  the 
subject  of  which  was  the  NatlTity  of 
Christ.  In  the  srchiTcs  of  this  dihe- 
dral are  the  curious  data  respecting  it^ 
and  an  account  of  the  expenses  that 
were  incurred.  Among  the  latter  we 
read  : — '  Seren  sueldos  for  making  up 
the  heads  of  the  bullock  and  donk^,  in 
the  stable  at  Bethlehem ;  six  sueldos  for 
wigi  for  those  who  are  to  represent  the 
prophets.  Ten  sueldos  for  rix  pairs  of 
gloTcs  to  be  worn  by  the  angds,  etc. 
The  fire  spaotoua  nares,  roofed  at  the 
same  lerel,  are  dirided  by  twentjr  piers, 
of  fiye  in  a  row,  the  capitals  of  which 
bear  the  Taultiiog.  Tlie  groining  is 
oorered  with  ogee  lieme  ribs,  and  is 
decorated  with  heavy  bosses  and  gilt 
pendants  which  bear  the  arches.  Bach 
pier  is  formed  of  groups  of  shafts,  and 
rests  on  yellow  marUe  pedestals  and 
bases.  The  c^^itals  haye  earrings  of 
fkt,  nuda  cherubs,  supporting  coats  of 
arms,  a  detail  which  assigns  a  later 


period  to  portions  of  the  interior  than 
is  generally  beUered.  The  sharp  ogive 
of  the  arc^ves  is  of  the  best  Gothic 
period,  and  ftill  of  elegance.  The  pave- 
ment, with  its  variegated  marbles  and 
rays  dlTcrging  from  the  bases  of  the 
piers^  is  intended  with  its  colours  and 
design  to  reproduce  or  reflect^  as  on  a 
miiTor,  the  tracery  of  the  roof  studded 
with  rosettes  and  wheels;  it  is  the  work 
of  Maestro  Muza,  a  Moorish  artificer 
most  probably,  and  dates  1482. 

Eigh  AUar, — It  is  placed  under  the 
cimborio^  which  the  founder  of  the 
high  altar.  Archbishop  Don  Pedro  de 
Luna,  caused  to  be  shaped  into  a 
tiara ;  but  a  century  later  it  was  turned 
into  an  octagonal  form,  and  the  cornice 
and  niches  of  the  statuea  were  adopted 
to  the  plateresque.  The  moon  and 
other  canting  arms  of  the  founder  may 
be  seen  sculptured  on  the  lateral  arches. 
The  three  arched  windows  above  the 
niches  are  Gothic^  and  between  both 
portions  runs  a  plateresque  frieie 
formed  by  a  long  Limousin  inscription 
giving  tlie  history  of  the  dmborio. 
From  the  cornice  spring  the  airy  but- 
tresses which  rise  to  support  the  dome, 
which  is  decorated  with  aixteen  golden 
Fburona.  The  dmborio  is  opened  in 
the  upper  part^  thus  allowing  the  oc- 
tagonal lantern  being*  seen,  which  is 
lifted  by  skyli^ts. 

BaitMo  Maiyor.'^'n^  is  all  of  ala- 
baster and  excellent  Gothic  style,  and 
is  divided  into  seven  compartmenta.  It 
dates  1456,  and  is  the  work  of  Dalmau 
de  Mur.  Observe  the  groups  repre- 
senting Martyrdom  of  San  Lorenso, 
Burial  of  San  '^^cente,  San  Yalero  in 
preeence  of  the  *tira&o,'  and  the  mir- 
acle of  casting  off  a  devil  from  another 
poor  devil's  body  which  was  effected  by 
the  preeence  of  the  head  of  this  sain^ 
when  it  was  removed  fhxn  Bhodes  to 
Zaragoza  in  1160.  On  the  sides  ars  effi- 
gies of  San  Valero  and  San  Yioenta. 


ZARAOOZA — OATHSDRAL. 


517 


The  priiicip«l  portion  is  filled  up  hj 
three  fine  ML  reUeroe  repreeenting  in 
the  centre  the  Adoration  of  Kings^  and 
at  the  aidee  the  Tranafignration  and 
Aaeenaion.  Theae,  with  the  anffda  bear- 
ing ahieLda,  etc,  are  bj  Martinei  de 
Donatelo.  Obeerre  the  fine  plateree^e 
aedilia.  Behind,  on  the  Go^el  aide^  ia 
bnried  Maria,  dan^^terof  Don  Jaime  el 
Oonqniitador,  ob.  at  Zaragom  1207. 
The  archbiahop^  8.  Joan  of  Aragon, 
brother  of  Ferdbiand  the  Oatholic,  lies 
buried  here  alao.  Obaenre  hia  reeom- 
bent  effigy  and  platereaqne  tomb.  The 
son  and  nephew  of  Ferdinand  Y.,  both 
archbiihopa  of  Zangon,  are  likewise 
bnried  here ;  and  to  the  left  ia  depoait- 
ed  the  heart  of  the  Infante  fialtaaar 
Carlos,  eldest  aon  of  Philip  lY.,  who 
died  here,  aged  17,  1646,  and  has  been 
ao  often  painted  by  Yelazqaes. 

Choir. — ^In  the  centre  liea  the  founder, 
Archbiahop  Mnr,  whose  ahield  ia  carred 
on  the  prdate'a  chair.  The  tUUria  ia 
Gothic  and  plain.  The  UeUm  and  ham 
ofih*  argtm  are  elaborately  carred,  and 
date  1418. 

Tra$eoro,^li  ia  of  atucco^  day,  and 
marble,  oat  of  which  hare  been  worked 
the  preaent  fine  platereaqne  relieroa 
representing  martyrdom  of  San  Lorenao 
and  San  Yicente,  whose  statnea,  etc.,  are 
all  by  Todelilla  of  Tarasona,  1688. 
They  are  Italian-like,  boldly  handled, 
and  moat  efiectiTe ;  wanting  perhapa, 
in  delicacy  of  execution  and  finiah  of 
details.  A  tabemade  with  aiz  Solo- 
minic  Uack  marble  columna ;  canopies 
in  the  centre  of  the  trascoro ;  an  indif- 
ferently carred  crndfiz;  and  to  the 
right  ia  the  kneeling  atatue  of  Canon 
Funea,  to  whom  the  Yirgin  apoke  in 
thia  Toj  apot— in  what  tongue  ia  not 
aaoertained.  But  he  would  be  a  bold 
man  who  would  renture  to  hint  to  a 
Zaragosano  that  the  language  apoken  on 
this  oooaaion  waa  not  tiie  pureat— not 
Caatilian,  for  that  would  not  do— but 


Aragoneee  Spanish,  with  a  broad  limoa* 
ain  pronunciation. 

(^apelt, — ^They  are  moatly  churri- 
guereaque,  tawdry,  heary,  and  without 
good  i^tnrea,  etc ;  the  rq}aa  endoaing 
them  are  better— those  especially  of  San 
Gabrid,  San  Migud. 

OapOJa  de  Stm  Bmmmrdo. — Founded 
by  Ardibiahop  Fernando  de  Aragon, 
who  liea  here  oppodte  to  his  mo&er, 
with  a  fine  statue  and  rdieroc  The 
alabaater  retablo  lepreaenta  scenes  of 
life  of  the  Saint  *whom  the  Yligin 
auckled,  and  to  whom  die  dictated 
booka.'  The  arohbiahop'a  effigy  is  Teiy 
findy  executed  by  Diego  Morlanea.  The 
amall  alabaater  'Resunection'iabyBe* 
cerra.  The  recumbent  atatue  of  the 
founder'a  mother  ia  alao  by  Diigc 

Ohmth  cf  Stm  OabrisL'^A  fine  ape- 
dmen  of  platereaqne,  founded  by  one 
of  the  Zaporta  fimiily ;  ob.  1679. 

Ohureh<ifS«m  Ifti^iidL— Founded  by 
Archbiahop  Luna,  who  liea  here. 

SaeHtHa, — Notice  on  entering  the 
fine  dnquecento  doer,  and  aee  the 
magnificent  temoa;  one  formeriy  be- 
longing to  the  Oathedrd  of  St  Paul  at 
London,  and  bought  it  the  time  of  the 
Befonnation.  To  the  ri^t  of  the  aa- 
oriafyia  the  Sala  Capitular,  where  there 
are  beaides  aererd  indifferent  pictnrea 
— aome  by  Bibera,  and  two  Zurbarana ; 
of  the  ktter  the  Dead  Chriat  ia  eapedally 
fine,  but  the  light  ia  very  bad  and  iM- 
grtUa,  Yidt  the  rdiquaiy  and  Jewda. 
Obaenre  the  dlTer  eustodia  of  1 687,  the 
cross  of  gold  on  which  the  kings  of 
Axagon  took  the  oath  to  respect  the 
fberoa  of  Aragon,  the  temo  of  Ardi- 
biahop Fernando  de  Aragon.  Do  not 
leare  the  church  without  noticing  in 
the  aide  oh^wl  of  San  Migud  a  pano- 
quia  of  the  Cathedral,  and  ^e  fine  tnnb 
and  effigy  of  Ardibiahop  Don  Lope  de 
Aragon,  ob.  1888. 

Citldfillcl  von.— A  contrast  wi^ 


018 


ZABAGOZA— OATHXDBAL. 


La  Seo,  as  to  stjle  and  character  of  the 
times,  not  all  to  the  adyantage  of  the 
more  modem. 

Aooording  to  the  legend,  the  Apostle 
Santiago^  after  the  cmcifizion,  came  to 
Spain  to  preach  the  gospel  abont  a.  d.  40. 
When  he  had  readied  Zaragosa,  and 
was  asleep,  he  was  Tisited  by  a  celestial 
vision;  Tlie  Yiigin  appeared  standing 
on  a  Jssper  pillar  and  sorrounded  by 
angels.  She  spoke  to  him,  expressing 
a  wish  to  haye  a  chapel  boilt  on  that 
Tery  spot  Santiago  hastened  to  com- 
ply with  this  desire^  and  erected  a 
small  and  modest  chapel,  which  the 
Mother  of  God  was  often  wont  to  yisit 
to  attend  dirine  seryice.  On  this  spot 
also  was  raised  the  present  cathedral, 
1686.  It  was  boilt  after  designs  by 
Heirera  el  Moco,  and  partly  rebuilt, 
decorated,  and  defaced  by  Yentura 
Bodrignes.  It  is  a  yery  large  edifice, 
600  ft.  long,  and  occupying  all  one 
side  of  the  spacious  Plaza,  plain  out- 
side and  unfinished.  The  interior  con- 
sists of  three  nayes;,  yery  wide,  yery 
lofty,  and  not  wanting  in  grandeur  and 
eiTect,  but  marred  by  the  abominations 
of  the  ornamental  style  introduced  in 
18th  century.  The  domes  with  rows  of 
green,  yellow,  and  white  glazed  tiles 
look  most  Oriental  and  elTectiye  from  a 
diBtanoe^  though,  of  course^  out  of 
keeping  here.  Twelye  huge  and  clumsy 
piers  diyide  the  nayes. 
'  Samia  Ovj^iUa.— This  chapel  within 
a  chapel  is  of  elliptical  shape,  with  three 
ingresses,  and  in  the  shape  of  a  Corin- 
thian temple,  with  a  large  cupola 
painted  al  fresco  by  A.  Velazquez,  not 
Ou  one.  In  the  centre  of  its  high  re- 
tablo  is  the  image  of  the  Virgin  point- 
ing to  Santiago,  and  on  the  right  the 
linages  of  the  Nine  Conyerts,  the  work 
of  one  Baminez.  Over  the  fine  jasper 
pillars  that  support  the  cupola  are 
placed  seyenteen  banners  and  flags, 
:fiiOBti^  captured  from  the  Moors.    The 


statues  around  Uie  altar  are  indifferent 
On  one  side  is  the  Holy  Image  with 
the  pillar.  A  heayy  manto  conceals 
the  image^  a  sQyer  rcja  encloses  it. 
The  payement  is  of  precious  marbles. 
Seyeral  ez-yotos  in  gold,  siWer,  and 
wax,  hang  round  from  the  roof  in  token 
of  miracles  performed  by  the  interces- 
sion of  the  Virgin,  and  in  the  shape  of 
hearts,  legs,  arms^  etc.  There  is  a 
small  pantiieon  underneath  where  are 
placed  the  heart  of  the  bold  Don  Juan 
de  Austria,  the  great  Zaragoza  bene- 
factor Pignatelli,  etc  The  domes  of 
the  church  are  by  the  Bayeus  and 
Qoya,  but  the  great  gem  here  is  the 

RdoMo  ifoyor.— The  masterpiece  of 
Damian  Forment^  era  1609-16,  and 
which  cost  18, 000  dtfcats.  It  is  mostiy 
of  alabaster.  The  relieyos  represent 
scenes  from  the  life  of  the  Yix^  and 
of  Christ  Tl|e  composition  and  exe- 
cution are  yery  fine. 

«Sto/fo.— They  are  the  work  of  Este- 
ban  de  Obray,  1642-48,  aided  by  Juan 
Maieto  and  Nicolas  de  Lobato.  There 
are  three  rows  of  stalls,  numbering  alto- 
geUier  116.  The  excellent  cairing  re- 
presents batfles,  toumamenti^  pastoral 
scenes,  scenes  from  Scripture,  etc. 

Obserye  also  the  fine  reja  by  Celma, 
with  plateresque  details,  1674. 

The  chapels  are  beneath  mention. 
In  the  sacristy  of  that  of  San  Lorenzo 
there  is  a  good  Martyrdom  of  the 
Tutelar,  by  Bibera. 

In  the  sacristy  de  la  Sta.  Capilla  ob- 
senre  what  now  remains  of  the  former 
Tesoro  de  la  Virgen,  and  which  was 
plundered  by  the  French  to  the  yalue 
of  £28,000.  Obserye  the  large  pearls 
in  the  shape  of  hearts,  boats,  rabbits ; 
diamond  necklaces^  etc.  Visit  the 
Virgin's  wardrobe,  whose  mantos  exceed 
the  yalue  of  many  a  queen's  toilet ;  but 
the  most  rational  gem  here  is  a  fine  and 
authentic  Titian  in  tiie  sacristia,  an 
Ecoe  Homo.     Under  it  is  a  bull  grant« 


ZABAQOZK 


619 


*  ing  forty  days'  indulgence  to  thoee  who 
wiU  say  a  crodo  before  it  Thereisalso 
a  good  small  medallion  painting. 

Minor  Ohnrohos. — SUl  Bngracia, 
extra  mnros,  also  csUed  de  las  Santas 
MasaSy  so  called  becanse  here  were  de- 
posited the  ashes  of  an  infinite  number 
of  martyrs,  smong  which  those  of  Sta. 
Engraoia,  San  Lamberto,  San  Lnperdo, 
etc,  who  wisre  martyrised  in  ▲.!>.  800, 
at  the  time  of  the  tenth  persecntion  dT 
the  Chnrch.  It  is  one  of  the  earliest 
dhnrches  in  the  town,  and  it  was  mostly 
destroyed  by  the  French  in  1808,  and 
in  1819  greatly  defaced  by  some  igno- 
rant  hieronymites  who  undertook  to 
repair  it ;  it  is  still  worth  visiting  snd 
pieserfes  portions  of  the  earlier  period. 
The  finest  thing  here  is  the  platmsque 
fiifade  and  statnes  flanking  the  en- 
trance^ all  by  the  Marlanes,  1505  (Joan 
and  Di^).  It  was  rebnilt  by  the 
Oathdio  Kings,  and  completed  by 
Charles  Y. ;  the  semi-MooriiJi  cloisters 
by  Tadelilla. 

San  i\iMo.  — Dates  1259;  a  good 
fafade.  Obseire  the  high  retablo  by 
Ferment  A  fine  tomb  of  Bishop  of 
Huesca;  staUs  which  date  1600-20. 
San  MiguiL -^Caxiovui  bassi-relieTi  of 
Pssdon,  San  Pedro^  and  San  Joan  ; 
early;  it  has  a  very  elegant  Moorish- 
like  tower.  SanHago, — On  the  site 
where  the  Apostle  lived.  The  retablo 
represents  the  Virgin's  yisit  to  the 
Saint  San  Felipe  y  SanHago,  — An 
elegant  portal  with  Salominio  black 
marble  pillars  and  statnes.  Santa  Gnu, 
Greek  orndform ;  Tery  early,  enlarged 
in  1499,  modernised  in  1780. 

IfOQja  (or  JBcdUni^). — It  was  bmlt 
in  1651,  and  is  a  cnrions  medley  of 
styles.  Its  distribntion  is  Gothic,  its 
windows  drcnlar,  but  mostly  belongs 
to  the  Gotho-plateresque.  Obserre  the 
rich  projecting  soffits,  the  towers  tiled 
with  white  and  green  asulejoe ;  the 
circular  door  is  flanked  by  windows  of 


the  ssme  form.  Observe  the  four  light 
turrets  at  the  comers,  the  relievo 
figures  and  busts.  It  is  ^oomy,  severe, 
and  dungeon-like  outside.  Interior, — 
Consists  of  a  square  hall  divided  into 
three  naves.  Bound  the  cornice  runs 
.an  inscription  with  date  of  completion, 
1551,  '  Beynando  Donya  loana  y  Don 
Carlos  su  l^jo,'  etc  Observe  the  four 
amblasoned  shields  with  the  lion  ram- 
pant of  Zaragosa,  and  griffins  snd. 
angels  ss  supporters;  and  over  the  door 
and  walls  the  relievo  gilt  escutcheons 
of  Spain  with  lions.  Here,  and  close 
to  a  small  chapel,  are  kept  the  gigan- 
tone%  giant  pssteboard  figures  that 
represent  the  four  parts  of  the  world, 
and  which  men  carry  about  on  great 
public  festivities ;  near  them  are  the 
minor  monsters  called  Los  Cabesuelos. 
On  the  whole,  the  Ixuga  is  not  worth 
the  trouble  of  a  visit,  looking  for  ad- 
mittance, etc,  and  the  porter's  fee 

Arehiepieeopal  Pakue, — Uninterest- 
ing. Consists  of  long  empty  rooms 
on  the  river,  and  a  collection  of  dauby 
portraits  of  the  archbishops  of  Zara- 
gosa. 

AW^ria.'^lt  is  situated  outside  the 
town,  fifteen  minutes'  drive  firom  the 
Coso.  It  was  the  palace  of  the  Moorish 
kings  or  sheiks,  and  became  afterwards 
the  residence  of  the  kings  of  Aragon. 
It  was  bmlt  by  Aben-A^afa,  whence 
its  name  It  has  also  been  used  for  the 
palace  or  tribunsl  of  the  Inquiridon 
when  the  antos-da-ft  took  place  in  the 
Plasa  del  Meroadc  This  edifice,  now 
converted  into  bsrraoks,  bears  traces  of 
different  styles  and  periods.  Observe 
remains  of  the  former  mosque  in  the 
first  patio ;  the  srcades  in  the  second  ; 
the  ornamentation  of  the  Sala  de  Pa- 
bellones  ;  the  gallery  and  ceiling  of  the 
Salon  de  Sta.  Isabel,  so  called  because 
it  is  said  that  the  holy  Queen  of  Hun- 
gary was  bom  in  it,  1271.  A  Gothic 
inscription  bears  the  date  1492»  which 


520 


ZAIULGOZA. 


ii  that  of  the  ctptore  of  GnnftdA.  The 
ceUing  wts  gilt  with  the  first  gold 
brought  bj  Ooliunbiii  firom  America. 
The  itaircaae^  now  much  injured,  was 
once  a  gem.  Inquire  alio  for  a  email 
chapel  called  de  San  Martin.  On  ite 
northern  side  if  adaik  cell  or  dungeon, 
called  la  Torreta.  Within  ite  waUa,  it 
ie  easerted,  wts  confined  the  unhappy 
lover  of  Leonora,  with'whom  are  fimi- 
liar  all  those  who  hare  heard  Verdi's 
charming  'Troratore'  (the  libretto  is 
by  Osrcia  Gutierres). 

Tcm  Numm, — ^It  is  a  lofty  octagonal 
isolated  tower,  Gotho- Arabic,  as  it  was 
built  after. designs  made  and  executed 
jointly  by  Spaidsh  and  Arab  architecti^ 
about  1604.  It  is  inclined  a  little  like, 
but  not  half  so  much  as,  the  Pisa  tower, 
and  is  84  ft.  high.  From  the  summit 
(2<S0  steps  to  ascend  I)  the  view  of  the 
city  and  oountry  around  is  extensive 
andfinei 

Publie  and  J^vaU  Bd{/Ue$.—Tht 
Hoepital  General  is  one  of  the  laigest 
in  Spain ;  the  new  UniTersity  is  a  noble 
quadrangle.  The  Oasa  de  Misericordia 
is  a  sort  of  hospital  where  from  (SOO  to 
700  poor  are  taken  in  and  employed  at 
different  trades. 

The  old  houses  belonging  to  the 
Aragonese  nobility  sre  well  worth  visit- 
ing, and  oonstitttte  excellent  examples 
of  the  Italian-Aragonese  style  of  pla- 
teresque,  differing  in  many  points  from 
its  counter-type  theSerille  lioro-Italian, 
or  strictly  Andalnsian  style,  applied  to 
private  dwellings. 

PnvaUDwtUing$.'~''Whnat  feudalism 
was  alive  the  Ricoe-homes  and  heredi- 
tary nobles  lived  in  their  castles  on  the 
mountains,  and  the  principal  houses 
belonged  to  rich  dtisens  and  plain  ca- 
balleros,  not  of  war  pursuits^  but  mer- 
chants and  magistrates ;  the  two  classes 
of  nobility  were  almost  blended  in  the 
liSth  century,  and  the  nobHitj,  with  the 
laU  of  feudalism,  lived  more  in  cities. 


Trade  was  oireumseribed  about  the 
Square  Mereado,  and  the  quarter  and 
streets  adjoining  the  Oalle  ICayor ;  most 
sre  of  1600,  and  thereabouts^  with  por- 
tals resting  on  half  pilasters,  square 
patios  with  istriated -pillan,  with  an 
antilo  or  ring  about  the  middle,  plater- 
eeque  galleries^  and  artesonado  stair- 
cases. Ckua  dd  Oomereio. — ^In  Oalle  de 
Santiaga  It  was  before  Oasa  deTorrel- 
las,  now  belongi  to  ICarquis  of  Ayerve, 
of  oblong  shapes  style  soni-Gothic  and 
plateresqne.  Oapitals  with  griffins  and 
sphinxes  crown  tiie  six  oolumns  of  the 
lower  storey  or  ground-floor.  The 
arches  of  Uie  elegant  gallery  spring 
from  chiselled  Gothic  pillars  of  no 
great  purity  of  style,  but  graoeftd  ;  the 
gallery  hasums^  oomucopias,andGnBOO- 
Roman  ornaments.  Over  this  upper 
gallery  are  Gotho -Moorish  windows; 
the  staircase  is  also  plateresque.  Over 
one  of  the  doors  that  lead  into  the  gal- 
lery is  a  Gothic  one  with  a  scutcheon 
over— a  lion  and  three  tumti,  the  cant- 
ing arms  of  the  Torrellas^  and  their 
motto,  'Omnibus  didid  prodesse,  no- 
cere  nemiuL'  CkuaZapofla. — Superior 
in  style  to  the  former,  and  plateresque, 
also  called  'de  la  Infanta,'  because  in 
the  end  of  the  last  century  it  was  the 
residence  of  'La  Yallabriga,'  married 
to  the  Infante  Don  Luis,  who  was 
exiled  to  Zaxagosa  for  his  marriage. 
Its  patio  is  of  cd^t  istriated  oolumns^ 
formed  in  its  hi^er  part  of  groups  of 
satyrs  and  nym|^  whose  heads  support 
the  capitaL  Over  this  capital  are  two 
mascarons  of  men,  women,  and  animala 
The  friese  is  delicately  worked  out  with 
medallions,  monsters,  ribbons. 

From  a  denteHated  cornice  springs 
the  upper  gallery,  presenting  six  arches 
on  each  side,  and  a  prof^on  of  relievos 
wonderfully  done.  The  pedestals  of 
its  light  pOlars  have  a  masearon  sonlp- 
tureu  The  antepecho,  or  pan^wt,  has 
medallions  with  busts,  some  in  the 


ZASLAQOZk. 


521 


^reai  of  the  16th  oentiny,  and  all  sword 
in  hand.  The  archiTolt  of  tha  drooler 
arohes  ia  of  a  most  graoefol  onrra,  is 
artesonadoed,  and  its  Jemhi^  oomiosb 
•eto^  proliisely  sonlptnrad.  The  stair- 
case balnstn^es  reprodnoe  the  same 
hosts  aa  on  the  gaUerj.  Behind  the 
Seminario,  PlaioeU  de  San  Oarlos, 
there  are  also  two  or  three  hooses  with 
splendidlj  deoorated  windows.  The 
MoseoisfollofrohUah.  AttheOasino 
is  a  portrait  of  Goya's. 

Lfbrariei,  0^.— ArohiTO  de  la  Dipo- 
tadon  ProTinoiaL  Here  sohsists  what 
little  ooold  be  sayed  from  fixe  in  the 
celebrated  siege.  The  Aotos  de  las 
Cortes  de  Aragon  are  nomeroos.  The 
UniTersity  possesses  a  Ubraiy  of  80»000 
Tolomes,  mostly  modem. 

iVvmsnacfes.— The  Coso  is  the  prin- 
dpal  street^  and  here  toomaments  osed 
to  take  place. 

The  Paseo  de  Sta.  Engrada  is  the 
fashionable  walk.  It  basins  at  the 
Core  and  finishes  at  the  Poerta  of  Sta. 
Engrada.  There  is  in  it  a  poor  statoe 
of  Pignatelli,  a  benebotor  of  the  town, 
whose  name  is  aasodated  with  the 
Canal  Imperial  and  many  other  poblio 
works.  Take  a  carriage  and  follow 
this  itinerary,  which  wfll  gije  yoo  a 
good  idea  of  the  town  and  enTirona  : — 
To  Torero^  from  whence  the  French 
entered  the  town,  which  in  1808  was 
strongly  held  by  the  Speniaids  at  ftni, 
bot  abandoned  throo^  the  ignorance 
•of  their  leaden  ;*  follow  the  Canal 
Imperial,  go  on  to  Boena  Yista,  tnm 
which  another  general  Tiew  of  the  dty 
•can  be  obtained,  Monte  Oscoro  on  the 
rights  and  the  range  of  San  Qregorio  on 
the  left,  fiMsing  the  town.  Then  follow 
the  canal  again  throogh  oliTo-groonds, 
and  obeerre  the  corioos  effect  prodoced 
by  the  canal  crossing  a9$r  the  Hoebra. 
Go  to  Casa  Blanca,  where  Marshal 
Lannea  signed  the  stipolations  for  the 
sonendering  of  the  town ;  and  come 


back  by  the  cayaliybanadci^  AQaferia, 
PlaadeToros. 

Jfteorfrw.— El  Prindpal  and  Yarie- 
dades.  Tbe  Unt,  which  is  the  best,  is 
generally  open  from  end  of  September 
to  81st  of  Mi^.  Spanish  plays  and 
dancing;  84r.  a  paloo  plataa,  and  a 
stall,  called  botaea  or  siUon,  6r.  to  8r. 

The  great  festiTity  is  on  October  12, 
the  annirersaiy  of  the  Tisit  of  the 
Tiigin  to  St  James.  On  soch  occa- 
sions mofe  than  40,000  pjlgrima  have 
been  known  to  flodc  to  Zaragosa  and 
the  holy  ahrine^  which  is  then  most 
gotgeoosly  deoorated  and  lighted  opi 

A  good  auino/  admittance  for  a 
fratnif^t  throng  a  member's  intro- 
doction.  aVV.  — El  Soiso  at  Pteso 
de  Sta.  Engrada.  Oaniagm, — ^At  the 
hotels.  Ko  tariff;  settle  price  before- 
hand. 

TOtgrofh  Ci^— At  Gob.  GiTil; 
open  always  bj  day.  Ftd  Q/leB, — In 
the  Coro.  Mails  airire  with  the  direct 
morning  trains^  andleaTO  with  the  last 
erening  one.  The  borean  is  opened 
from  7.80  to  18  ▲.!!.,  uid  tnm  5  to  10 
p.ic.  DmCot.  — D.  Manoel  Daina; 
speaks  French.  N.  B.  —  TMt  the 
dlTevamith's  at  La  FUt8ri%  and  ob- 
aerre  the  peasanta'  ear-rings  of  Tsiy 
antiqoe  style  :  a  pair  with  stones  coets 
aboot  10  dollars.  Kotioe  also  the 
nomberless  images  of  the  Yiigln  on  the 
pillar,  crosses^  medals^  rings^  etc,  and 
worn  as  a  charm.  Taste  the  wines  of 
PmfUa^  Oarinena,  Ir.  to  2r.  the  bottle. 
BoAm, — ^In  snmmer  at  the  Hoebra  and 
at  Maraoos,  Plan  de  la  Oonstitadon, 
and  de  Zaoaria%  Salon  de  Sta.  En- 
grada»  ir« 

Bontas  flrom  Traneh  F]rr«naM  to 


BttmU  1.  A.  8L  J§tm  PUdd4PoH  te 
Pamphntk— 71  k£L  between  St  Jean 
and  Pamplona,  ride. 

B.  SL  Jmm  FM  d$  FtH  io  FalmrUt. 


6S3 


ZAEAOOZA. 


—Hie  rifw  Yaloolo^  a  tiibataiy  of 
tiie  mre,  dhridet  the  two  ooontriet ; 
tiie  Tillags  of  the  nnie  name  ia  the 
int  Spaaiali  oim^  and  Ondanle  the 
kat  Fnoeh ;  part  of  the  waj  can  be 
pflt^onned  in  a  oaniage;  hot  thia 
mnat  depend  on  the  aeaaon  of  the  jear. 
mne  ISoreata  of  eheetmit-tieee  and 
efana  m  eioand,  then  to  BoneearalleB 
(Boneefaiix.) 


StjMs  P.  <kPtet,toVal- 


Zubin 
Zmraldica 


4 

4 

s 

3 

The  aoenery  ia  magnificent^  Swiae- 
Mke  and  Alpine.  At  St  Jean  a  hone 
and  a  goide  may  be  hired  for  the  whole 
Joonej  for  80fr.,  the  guide  paying  hia 
own  keep^  and  no  return  moiuy. 

Take  alter  Yalcailoe  the  oentnl  of 
the  three  mountain -rontea.  By  thia 
aame  ralley,  where  Charlemagne  was 
nmted,  the  Black  Prince  led  hia  Icgiona 
to  the  Tietoiy  d  Kayanete  (February 
1807),  and  Joeeph  Buonaparte  fled  after 
hia  defeat  at  Yitoria. 

The  hamlet  of  Bonoearallea  (Boeoida 
YaUii)  atanda  in  the  ralley  of  Yal- 
carloa.  A  good  little  inn  oppoaite  to 
the  ohnreh  of  the  untenanted  conrent 
of  our  Lady  d  the  Yalley.  In  778, 
the  army  of  Charlemagnfl^  with  all  hia 
peerage^  hXl^  routed  and  mowed  down 
by  the  independent  Beaqueei  ICany 
were  the  legends  written  after  HhiM,  and 
among  them  the  Baaque  8ong  of  Alta- 
biMar,  of  which  the  following  ii  an 
abridged  tranalation.  The  original  may 
be  found  in  M.  Fnmdaque  Michel's 
work,  'LeP^Baaque.' 


"Th&f  art 


tiwy  an 


Mid 


•  For  FwploM,  iM  Mm^id/rwmAtrmtu. 


Basque  to  his  Ma.   'Child,ooiiat 
BUM  nooc' 
.  One,  tw^  tlvec^  Ibor,  tn%  mm 


'Twcaty  and  tfaooaads— lo. 


twenty, 
and 


'  But  the  cngs  M  they  an  crash 
the  blood  flows ;  gory  lenaim  fie 


tered  here  and  tliert.  Oh, 
liab  l-oh,  that  ocean  of  blood  I 
'They  fly,  they  ran  away  | 
their  hedge  of  speant    How  naay 
now,  childt    Covat  theM oat,  and  ■ 


TwelfSi,  eleven,  tea^ 
five,  three,  two,  one.' 
'Itkdonel    ItisaU 
'And  at  night  the  c^^  and 
coaw  down,  and  feed  npoo  that  Mangled 
and  aO  thcM  booM  owst  bbn^  Sbt 


▼nltarM  will 


f 


At  Zubiri  and  Huarte  the  Aiga  ia 
eroeied ;  and  at  Yillaba  Tehiolee  can 
eaaily  be  obtained  to  reach  Pamplona, 
a  few  milee  ofL 

O,  By  Oa  d4  JMojetf.— at  Jaan  to 
Yalcarioa ;  then  take  road  on  left,  and 
by  the  Col  de  Bentaatc^  1222  yards 
high.  Kot  80  picturesque  or  woody, 
more  mountainous. 

J).  BySL  mimws  d§  Baigorry.^SL 
Jean  to  Ronoeranz  or  Bugnete  ;  then 
turn  Ew,  passing  by  the  Alduidee  and 
Banea  Foundry.  Better  roads ;  not  so 
{detnreaque.  Indlflierent  accommoda- 
tion. Yehidea  from  Bmguete  (and 
ATis)  daUy. 

£ouU  2.  A.  TaroUts  to  Ampltmo.^ 
1.  By  Ochagariaand  Lumbier,  118  kil. 
To  Lanran,  the  laat  Fkench  Tillage,  in 
a  carriage  (0  kiL),  then  riding  by 
Ochagaria  (1800  iiUiabitantB),  on  tho 
Zatoya  and  AnduAa.  Lodge  at  the  old 
Hermitage  de  Nuestra  Selkora.  Some 
sulphureous  watera  in  the  Ticinlty,  an 
old  manaion-houae^  and  two  mediiBTal 
caatlee;  then  eroesing  the  Salasar  to 
Keraaen^  from  thia  to  Lumbier,  aoaa- 
ing  again  the  SaUsar;  the  aceneiy  is 
very  fine^  and  the  latter  town  (popn- 


ZARIGOZA. 


523 


ktion  liSOO  inlialntaiits)  pletnnsqnely 
ritoftted.  The  roadi  m  bad,  Irat  pne- 
ticable  in  sommer  and  aQtamn ;  then 
following  the  old  road  i^om  Zangosa  to 
Pamplona,  leaving  the  fine  ninetj- 
seTen  arched  aqnednct  on  the  rigiht,  the 
latter  town  is  reached. 

B.  2.  By  SanaU  and  Ti$rma$,  lliS 
kiL— Roncal,  444  inhabitant^  on  the 
Ezca.  The  road  ia  not  interesting  or 
pleasant  Diligencea  from  Tiennaa  to 
Pamplona  ererj  other  day,  and  one  by 
Sangfteaa. 

8.  BofpUrtt  d$  Ludkcn  to  Za/ragotOf 
by  Yenaaqoe  and  Barbastro,  riding  or 
walking  in  three  days  to  Barbaatra 
Magnificent  scenery  and  tolerable  ac- 
commodation. Ladiea  may  be  carried 
in  portable  chairs.  First  diay—Lnchon 
toYenasqne,  either  by  Port  de  Yenaaqoe 
or  Port  de  la  Gleyre ;  the  latter  is  a 
better  road,  the  former  sometimes 
perilous.  This  beaatifol  valley  is  7 
leagaea  long  by  18  in  droumference. 
Veiuuque. — Inns:  Bronssean,  or  at 
Pedro  Farras ;  fiBres,  8  to  lOfr.  a-day ; 
population,  500.  A  dirty  town ;  the  old 
Yercelia.  On  the  Esera,  8829  feet 
above  the  sea :  two  churches^  one  of  a 
Romanesque  style ;  a  pictnresqne  castle, 
and  curious  old  houses ;  the  If  aladetta 
in  the  distanoe,  grand ;  the  valley  of 
Yenasque,  magnificent  Second  di^ — 
Sleep  at  Santa  liestra,  not  an  easy  road 
for  travelling  but  picturesque.  Third 
day-^To  Barbastro  ;  Barbastro  to  Zara- 
gon,78kiL 

4.  BtifftUm  d$  Luehon  to  Zairagom 
hy  Jaoa,  —  By  Lourdes^  Canijano, 
Urdea^  Jaca. 

Eamm  Chavd&t  to  Zaragom, — First 
to  Gabas,  then  by  OoL  des  Moines,  or 
Col  de  Sompert  (the  first  more  difficult, 
but  shorter),  to  Ganfranc,  and  Canfrano 
to  Jaca,  Jaca  to  Zaragosa. 

Bagnh^  do  Bigorrt  by  Lourdm,  £$- 
teiU,  Urdoi,  Canrftanc^  ofnd  Jaoa, 

Attend  to  provender,  take  a  lopal 


guide,  and  sleep  in  private  houses  in 
preference  to  posadaa.  Pass  the  beau- 
tiful valley  of  Jena,  4  leagues  long. 
K.  to  S.,  8  wide ;  11  leagues  circum- 
ference. Watered  by  the  G411^go 
Salient;  the  ohiaf  hamlet^  Pantioosa, 
here  also. 

Pa/ntieooa, — A  decent  French  inn, 
and  the  Etablissement  The  bathing 
accommodation  far  from  good.  Dif- 
ferent springs ;  the  principal,  del  Es- 
tomago.  Herpes,  Hi^ido ;  season  from 
June  to  September.  Boute  to  Eanx 
Bonnes^  12  hrs.  stout  walking ;  can  be 
ridden.  To  Gauterets  by  Gol  de  Mar- 
cadaut  desolate  and  difficult,  8  hrs. 
ride.  Pass  several  lakes,  pass  the  crest 
of  the  CoL  in  2)  hrs.,  whence  in  4  hr. 
to  Gauterets  (Hdtel  de  France),  when, 
by  diligence  or  caliches  to  Tarbes, 
whence  by  rail  to  Pan  and  Bayonne. 
Scenery  magnificent,  especially  the 
Lao  de  Gaube  and  Pont  dlspagne. 
Here  the  Yignemale  is  seen  well ;  the 
Petit  Pic  is  10,000  ft  above  the  sea, 
and  has  been  ascended;  the  Lao  de 
Gaube  is  one  of  the  most  elevated  in 
the  Pyreneea.  Though  there  are  nasty 
portions  to  descend  with  hones,  we 
have  found  them,  from  personal  ezpe- 
rience^  level  ground  oompared  to  many 
in  South  Andalusia  and  N.  W.  of  Spain. 
From  Pantioosa  in  2  hrs. ;  steep  side 
to  Sallient  (Spanish  custom-house), 
whence  into  France  by  W.  Puerto  de 
Formigal,  which  is  tbie  easiest,  or  by 
Gnello  de  Sova  and  La  Tocqueta,  hy- 
the  Yalley  d'Ossau,  much  firequented 
and  highly  picturesque. 

Jf.^.— -See  for  the  mineral  springe,. 
General  Inf onnation :  Mineral  WaUn^ 
de. 

Oamioreti  to  iVm^fooM.— 9  hra.  hard 
walking.  First,  from  Gauterets  to  Pont 
d'Espagne;  then  follow  the  Gave  dc 
Marcadan,  leave  the  Antilles  lake  on 
left,  croes  the  Portde  Marcadan  (2  hrs. 
now  to  Panticoea).    Pantlcosa  to  Jacai 


624 


ZARIGOZA. 


80  klL,  ride  or  walk.  One  can  alto  go 
from  Oantereta  to  Pantioosa  by  the 
Yignemale,  road  wont.  There  ii  a 
diligeiioe  aerrioe  between  Fanticoaa  and 
Zaragoaa— in  22  honra. 

oUrtm  te  JoM  by  Oat^nmc — Oloron 
to  IJxdoa,  40  IdL ;  IJrdoa  to  Croix  da 
Somport ;  the  eroaa  marka  the  limita  of 
thetwocoimtriea.  The  Aragon,nearto 
Yenta  San  Antonio^  at  the  laat  bridge 
before  Canfranc,  pay  Ir.  80m.  perhorae 
or  mole. 

Cfan^flramc,  on  right  bank  of  the 
Aragon*  140  inhaUtanta ;  one  only 
atreet;  a  pietmeaqne  caatle,  time  of 
Philip  IL;  thenoe  by  Pefia  Oolorada, 
eroaa  aereral  defilea^  and  to  Jaca»  whenoe 


Cfavtumii  to  JaoL — 4\  hra.  walk 
from  QaTamie  and  ita  Gbqne,  and  by 
tha  Ara»  which  ia  oroaaed  to  Bonchard, 
where  aleep ;  and  from  it  to  Pantiooaa^ 
7  hr8.»  by  the  monntain  of  Tendenera, 
from  Girqne  de  QaTamie  by  Valley  de 
Gedre  to  Baregea,  St  Sauvear,  Cantereta 
by  Pierrefitte. 

Pan  to  Pantico— 

FVom  TariMs  to  FuiticoM 


BacB^rwd* 

(MoroQ,  8  iMifUM,  dM  beat  road,  oaly4 
ikSdan,  and  dM  raat  ia  a  camag*. 

Zaragon  to  Bagnkru  d$  Bigom, — 
By  rail  to  Selgna  (line,  Zuagosa  to 
Barcelona),  Tehidea  in  attendance  for 
Barbaatro^  10  kiL 

Barboitro, — On  the  Yeao,  population 
4200»  a  biahop'a  aee^  Poaada  Baiaa, 
aitoated  on  vneren  ground  in  a  hollow, 
and  on  the  alopea  of  a  hill  whoae  aom- 
mit  ia  erowned  bj  the  oldeat  portion 
of  the  dty ;  reiy  narrow,  ateep  atreeta^ 
that  in  winter  become  torrenta  and 
caaeadea ;  a  fewhooaea  have  aoffita^  etc, 
of  16th  eentmy  atyle,  but  moat  are 
brick  and  mortar  work%  and  indiiferBnt 
In  the  Oalle  del  Coeo  ia  a  apedmen  I 


of  home  arehitectnre  of  16th  eentmy. 
At  one  extremity  of  it  a  apedmen 
of  the  platereaqne  with  BoTiTal  pillai% 
aoolptitfed  ad&ta  (alero),  and  a  galleiy 
with  open -worked  pendanta^  and  in 
Oalle  dd  RJancho  ia  a  good  example  of 
the  hooae  architecture  of  end  of  16th 
century.  The  Yero,  a  hnmble  rirnlet^ 
goea  throQ|^  the  dty.  The  cathedral 
really  datea  of  end  at  16th  eentmy,  for 
the  former  portion,  now  called  la  Maea- 
trie,,  waa  mnch  reduced  when  the  pre- 
aent  edifice  waa  erected ;  we  may  pJaoe 
the  datea  d  foondation  between  1600 
and  1688.  Pope  Nicdaa  Y.  ereeted 
thia  See  into  a  Odegiata  in  1448.  The 
prindpal  entrance  (if  it  may  ao  be  tailed) 
ia  pdtry  beyond  meaaore^  and  haa  to  be 
hunted  for.  The  dimendona  are  not 
great — 140  ft  in  length,  three  nayea 
alike  in  height^  the  groining  apringing 
from  the  capitala  of  the  column%  and 
ooyered  wiUi  (>gee  lieme  ribe.  The 
pillara  are  light  and  graceftU,  and  look  ^ 
like  a  bunch  of  pillareta  tied  up  by  a 
capital  made  of  foliage^  angel%  and 
flowera.  At  the  extremity  of  the  three 
naTca,  the  archea  form  a  atar,  in  centra 
of  which  ia  the  hi^  chapel,  and  in  the 
two  other  lateral  onea  thare  are  chapda 
with  platereaque  altera  diTided  into 
numeroua  oompoaitiona.  The  higih  altar 
ia  of  1660-1602,  and  waa  errooeoody 
attributed  by  aome  to  Damian  Ferment, 
who  died  end  of  16th  eentmy.  It  ia 
indifferent  Thia  church  haa  ndther 
cupola  nor  tranaept  The  li^t  cornea 
frmn  the  ogird  windowa  pboed  orer 
the  chapda ;  under  them  runa  a  firieie 
all  round  Uie  church  with  laige  gilt 
lettera  of  16th  and  I7th  centuriea^  re- 
cording ita  oonaeeration  in  1681.  Thia 
edifice  ia  aaaodated  with  no  great  tradi- 
tiona  of  art  or  hiatoty ;  there  are  no 
aepuldiraa.  Tlie  choir  hi  centrd  nave ; 
ataUa  of  plateraaque  atyle,  1684-16H 
with  goodly  executed  oolumna  iatriated, 
maaearona,  and  minor  aoulpturea.  Ttmn 


ZABAGOZA. 


526 


m  tan  or  more  ehapelay  mottlj  ehmri- 
goerotqne  and  indiffereiit  There  !• 
ftlao  a  road  here  to  Hoeaca  and  to  Hon- 
ion  ;  attend  to  the  prorender,  and  on 
to  Naval,  where  isa  great  trade  in  ealt 
^{sMo.— <)noe  the  eapital  of  Sobrarre, 
now  a  poor  (800  Inhabitanti)  hamlet 
The  two  ohnrohea,  andflDt  moeqnee. 
On  the  Flan  de  Annas,  the  old  palace 
<tf  the  kings  of  Sohrarre,  S)  k£L  off;  is 
the  iamons  Cms  de  Sohnnre,  placed  in 
remembrance  at  the  one  which  appeared 
to  King  Qarcia  Ximenes,  about  to  en- 
connter  the  infidel ;  ererj  year,  Sep- 
tember 14,  a  great  festlTal  takes  place 
aronnd  it  By  Jhurtoku,  here  two 
roads  to  Bagnkes  1st  Bj  Col  de  Sesa 
andBielsa;  2d.  LaCinca;  go  on  direct 
to  Gistain,  800  inhabitants ;  follow  np 
the  Cingaeta,  and  to  Col  de  la  Pej,  at 
the  foot  of  Pic  dn  Midi,  and  by  the  ad- 
mirable ralley  de  Lonron,  whence  to 
Bagnkes. 

Zaragoaa  to  ./aca.— Distance  194 
leagues.  By  a  diligence  to  Ayerre^  12 
leagues,  in  abont  10  honrs.  Then  in 
one  day's  hard  riding  or  two 
dayi^  to  Jaoa,  by  bad  roads. 

Zsni|OM  to  Znsni  *    4 

3 

5 

•—II 

5 

'- :?H 

•/ook— Population,  8200  inhabitants. 
The  scenery  around  is  picturesque, 
/nil.*  Posada  del  Canfrano;  dose  by  the 
riTer  Gas  joins  the  Aragon.  A  bishop's 
see.  The  cathedral  was  built  in  314 
by  King  Bamira.  It  is  massiTe  and 
sombre,  diyided  into  three  nares. 
There  are  some  curious  and  Toy  early 
details.  The  present  groining  was  put 
np  in  the  10th  century.  OajpUt/a  d$ 
sim  MiffUiL—A  fine  plateresque  door. 


CfapiUa  d$  la  TrinUdatL^A  fine  marble 
reteblo.  OapOla  d$  Su  MagttUuL—A 
grand  tomb  of  a  bishop.  The  dty  was 
takenbyH.P.Oato^A.alOS.  Potions 
<tf  the  Boman  wall  then  erected  remain. 
In  706  the  battle  of  Las  Tiendas  took 
pUuse  here^  when  Don  Asnar  defeated 
00,000  Moors,  the  women  fighting  like 
men.  On  the  first  Friday  of  May,  on 
the  site  of  the  battle^  the  Jaca  women 
go  through  a  sham  fi^t  A  church 
was  raised  here  also.  In  Jaca  was  held 
the  first  parliament  on  record,  and  its 
Fuero  or  municipal  charter  is  among 
the 'earliest  in  Spain.  Sjcenrsions  can 
be  made  to  the  mines  and  pine-foresti 
of  Orrel,  and  the  picturesque  and  legen- 
dary Benedictine  Conyent  of  San  Juan 
de  la  Pefia,  also  to  Eauz  Chaudes  by 
Canfrano,  the  latter  8i  hrs.  ride. 

Fmuh  Pifrmtei  imio  Spain. — From 
Pan  to  Bayonne,  by  rail ;  dirtance,  10^ 
kiL;  time^  8  hrs.;  tkns,  1st  cL,  lit 
20c.;  2d  cL,  St  40a;  8d  cL,  Of.  16c.; 
and  from  Pan  to  Jaca;  walking  or  riding 
(by  IJrdos),  and  from  Jaca,  either  to 
Sanguesse,  and  then  rail  to  Pamplona 
or  Zangosa,  or  direct  to  Huesca,  whence 
to  Zaragosa  line. 

From  Zaragam  to  Cfautortti,  Zara- 
gooa  to  JBTiMSoa. — By  rail,  Zaragoia  to 
Tardienta,  1)  hr.  At  Tardienta,  branch 
line  to  Huesca;  distance,  21  kiL; 
time^  40  to  60  m  ;  total,  2|  hn. 
6hr8. 

JIuomk — Oaca  Uargetes,  named  by 
tlie  Romans  Yictiiz,  coined  the  much- 
prised  money  called  Oscense  which  was 
preciously  carried  to  Boma.  Huesca 
was  the  dty  of  predilection  of  the  Ara- 
gonese  kings  of  the  first  dynasty,  and 
the  court  of  BamiroIL  The  cathedral 
is  in  a  spadous  quadrflong  square. 
About  1827,  it  is  supposed,  the  Bis- 
cayan  Juan  of  Olotnga  designed  the 
plan  of  it,  and  the  buflding  was  finished 
in  1616.  The  portal  mayor  or  W. 
doorway  is  l^  him,  and  its  seren  cgiTal 


626 


ZARAGOZA. 


taehm  m  supposed  to  hare  been  placed 
to  represent  the  seveA  heaTens.  It  is 
ornamented  with  biena-yentondos  ac- 
cording to  their  hierarchy,  and  the  pre- 
cedence supposed  to  rule  in  the  em- 
pyrean— thus,  in  the  inner  arch  are 
placed  eight  prophets;  in  the  third, 
ten  angels ;  in  the  fifth,  fourteen  Tir- 
gins ;  and  in  the  serenth,  sixteen  mar- 
tyrs, all  canopied.  The  other  arches 
are  decorated  with  flowers  and  scroll- 
work. Orer  the  door  the  tympanum 
has  the  Yiigin  and  Child  adored  by 
the  three  Kings  of  the  East^  and  Jissus 
appearing  to  the  Magdalen  i  also  es- 
cutcheons of  city  and  benefiMstorB.  On 
each  side  of  the  W.  door  are  seren  large 
statues  representing  Apostles^  etc.,  and 
the  martyrs  of  Huesca,  called  Lorenzo 
and  Vicente.  The  execution  indifferent 
The  ogive  was  awkwardly  interrupted 
by  a  salient  portico^  and  OTer  it  is  the 
upper  portion  of  ths  front  oomposed  of 
four  turrets  at  the  angles^  and  a  centnd 
rose-window.  This  portion  dates  of  be- 
ginning of  16th  century,  it  is  supposed. 
On  the  right  is  the  belfry,  most  indiffer- 
ent There  are  two  other  early  door- 
ways worthy  of  examination.  InUrior, 
— ^Three  naTes,  cruciform.  The  central 
roof  has  Reriral  florones^  for  which  1800 
gold  florinswere  giron  in  1616  by  Bishop 
Juan  de  Arsgon  y  Nararra.  The  tran- 
sept has  painted  glass  at  the  extremities, 
but  in  the  rest  of  the  church  there  is 
none.  The  principal  rotable  in  high 
altar  is  a  masterpiece  of  Ferment  on 
alabaster  1620-88,  for  10,000  sueldos. 
The  first  pedestal  is  diyided  into  two 
orders.  The  first  order  is  composed  of 
seren  relieyes  of  Passion  of  Christ,  etc 
The  work  is  fine ;  not  pure  Gothic,  rather 
plateresque.  Choir  in  centre  ;  ijie  tra- 
sooro  formed  as  an  altar  crowned  by 
Faith ;  crucifix  in  centre,  and  on  sides 
S.  Loranso  and  S.  Vicente,  all  Gr»oo- 
Boman  stylei  The  extenial  side  of 
choir  is  of  1402,  the  former  silleria  was 


rejdaced  by  the  present  one,  which  is  the 
work  of  natire  inferior  artistic  1587* 
1694,  style  of  BeTlTal,  mezse-relie?os 
in  upper  row ;  the  arms  and  backs  are 
mudi  worked.  The  chapels  sre  indiffer- 
ent InoneistheCristode  losMilag* 
ros,  whose  sweat  fell  on  the  man  who 
bore  him  in  a  procession  (1497),  whidi 
took  place  with  an  object  to  propitiate 
Diyine  Proridenoe.  hk  the  archiTes  of 
the  chapter  are  sereral  curious  boQk% 
the  ori^mal  actas  of  the  Councils  (^ 
Jaca  (1068),  and  well-illuminated  bibles 
and  breriaries.  The  doirters  are  an- 
terior to  the  present  cathedraL  The  door 
from  latter  to  former  is  Byzantine^ 
with  figures  of  saints.  The  cloisters 
still  retain  specimens  of  their  primitiTe 
Byzantine  style.  Bishop  FenoUet  in 
1468  erected  a  whole  wing,  which  was 
Qothic ;  all  the  rest  is  ruin  and  ne^g^ect 
The  sepulchres  are  indifferent,  and 
mostly  without  inscriptions.  On  that  of 
a  kni^t  called  Ordas  is  his  escutcheon 
with  a  bell,  in  memoiy  of  his  head 
being  cut  by  the  enemy  and  plaoed  to 
sound  a  belL  Some  are  with  inscrip- 
tions of  12th  to  14th  century,  but  those 
sre  few  and  of  no  importance  One  of 
the  Rerival  style  was  eraeted  by  Fer- 
ment to  his  pupil  Mufios.  TheUshop's 
palace  is  indifferent  The  Town-Hall 
has  a  plateresque  halL 

PoHth  Cnmrdi  <f  Am^i^tK.— 12th 
century ;  the  asylum  and  burial  of  the 
Bey  Monge^  much  spoiled  by  war  and 
the  Moors,  but  Byzantine  formeriy. 
The  retablo  of  1241  was  magnificent, 
but  was  replaced  by  the  present  one  oif 
1608.  The  choir  dates  of  the  begin- 
ning of  16th  century,  Gothic^  I^ain, 
and  elegant  enough.  In  a  chapel  here 
are  the  remains  ^  the  children  Justo  y 
Pastor,  martyrised  at  Alcalide  Henares 
by  Dadan's  orders,  whose  bodies  were 
found  in  the  caTe  of  ahermit  in  the  9th 
century.  Theywereobjectsofmuchpioaa 
coretousness  at  Alcali  and  other  dtlea. 


J 


ZABA002A. 


527 


Opposite  are  the  Ctsaa  ConeiftoriAlee 
in  Um  ityle  of  16th  centoiy,  end  on 
one  Bide  the  Epiaoopel  Paliuie.  Here 
WM  fonnerlj  one  of  the  finest  mosqnea^ 
which  was  pnrified  end  oonaeonted  in 
KMNS,  and  pnlled  down  in  14th  oentoiy. 
It  is  the  capital  of  a  prorinoe  of  the 
same  name ;  pepnktion,  10,000.  Uni- 
venity,  Plaza  de  Toro8»  and  a  seminary; 
—ft  bishop's  see  sitoeted  in  its  rich 
plain,  called  Haga,  oontains  many  old 
and  well-preeenred  edifices.  Now  a 
decayed  and  backward  doll  town.  It 
was  ah  important  city,  according  to 
Plutarch,  under  the  PAmat^f.  s^q 
L9renao  is  said  by  some  to  hare  been 
bom  here.  The  chief  street  is  Bl 
Coso.  The  town  is  cheap  and  well 
supplied.  The  Psntanob  near  Asquis, 
4  leagues  N.  of  Huesca,  is  a  fine 
hydraulic  work,  by  Artigas. 

Hueeca  to  Panticosa,  88  kiL  Cbn- 
terets  nine  hours'  walldng  either  by 
the  Yignemale  or  the  liarcadan. 

Luehim  to  ^^awtB^MCk— Walking  or 
riding  in  8  ^days,  thus  diyided ;  the 
distance  is  given  in  hours ;  a  guide  ne- 


TntDOAT. 

Saa  Qdlas  to  Bamas  (good  road) 
Fomnifa  .       .       .       , 
Venta  do  Soala  Loda 
Venta  do  Gfaoos  (bnakfiM) 
Pnebla  do  Castro 
CapiUa  do  San  Roqno 

Barea  do  Fdbi  la  Gaoibni. 
Eoa 


iti$urmry;  niST  DAT. 

Lttcboa  to  Orcpie  de  la  Giho 
Port  de  la  GIbo  (Frontier)    . 
Hoepfee  de  V^naaqoe  (brc»kfiMt}  . 
Town  of  VtAuMqno  (sleep)     . 


o 

o 
3© 


a 
t 
I 
a 


At  Barbastro,  Oalle  del  Portillo^  Na 
9,  there  is  a  diL  office  where  tickets  sie 
dellTered  to  Zaragon^  railway  oom- 
prised.  The  station  is  Selgua  (that  of 
Monson  is  only  ff  kiL  from  Selgua), 
fares  by  .the  small  diUgenoe^  between 
Barbastro  and  Selgua,  8  hra. ;  and  l^r. 
for  each  10  kUc^grammei^  ezoess  of 
l«>88>g«»  distance,  10  kiL 

By  rail,  from  Pan  to  Tarbes,  80  kiL 
24)  miles.  From  Tarbas,  riding  or 
walking;  6  days,  but  can  be  done  in  4 
days. 

IHmfrmry:  wmn  ©at. 

A.  tn. 
Tarbes  to  JdOaa,  6  kiL        .       .       .    o   40 

g«««»»«ka. Z 

[  Pontaroq,  to  kfl. ,0 

Nay  (we  have  walked  from  Nay  to  Bag. 

de  Bifores,  a  charmi^ 

bmJifMt here),  soldi 
Rebenac,  la  kiL    . 
Lottvie,  10  UL 


I 
t 

I 


nOOND  OAT. 

V^jsasqno  to  Eristtf        .       .       .       .    o 
ChapeOe  to  Goient        .       .       .       .    o 

Sahon o 

N.B.—FcXhw  now  the  upper  roote^ 
as  the  kmer,  thodgh  shorter,  is 
•toeper  and  dangeroas  for  hoiBeB. 
Chia  (a  nasty  bit  to  descend)  .    a 

^eira  (very  bMl  track)    ....    a 
Can^o    (breakfast),   most  pictareai|iio 

fo'goi a 

Murillo  .......    t 

San  Qniks  (where  sleep)       ...    a 


Si 


3© 
«5 


aacowo  oat. 

LouTie  to  ChapeOo  de  BleOo  .    s 

ColdeliariUanca(amlo-tmck)  .    • 

Escottes,  9  IdL      ...  • 

Bedoas(break&st)'i9kL      .  '.       !    t 


Urdos  (where  sleep) :  it  is  so  kiL  ftoa 
thePort 


o 
o 
o 
6 


o 
o 

3«> 

o 

3© 


THIKD  DAT. 

Urdos toLaaaret    .... 
Forges  of  Feyraneire  (the  Bh^k  or 

Rock  Stone) , 

Psailette  (excellent  road) 

French  frontier  (119  kit  from  Pan)       .   e    ti 

Spanish  Dooano ,     ^ 

Canfrane  (breakfrst)      .       .       . 


o    IS 


e 

e 


538 


dM 


day: 


Jaemte 
To  Ml* 
Vcalad* 
VoMtdolaFdbi 
Mmaio  .  . 
Bn>ig<  01  Ml 
Eras   (riwf  ; 


•  « 


•  • 


to  Ayvbi^ 


0  SO 
«  «5 

«  3«» 

9  o 

1  so 

«  30 

»  45 

«  30 

s  o 

o  IS 

«  30 

7 


RFTB  OAT. 


Ef  to  OmttM  dd  Coihgo 

Sno  vbcn  um  noidsoi  tfowr>  and 


Lo  Boica  (wImio  tfao   Colago  b 
OMMQ  oa  a  HByi  •       ■       •       • 
Zoom  (good 


4  o 

•  30 

e  IS 

o  15 


•A 


of  the  tailway  fioB 


A. 


«.  'LAmdc 
lalfkmdcla 
>S79 


—  I.  ^'natodo  do  k 
dot  SMvador  do  Zo- 


do 

do 
160c,  bf 


(MSa 


V. 


3.  Apooi;batioi 
deZM^OM,' 
No.  4a,  iHa 

HatdcIUH^'bf  1 

obiOcr,  stis.  •  ^'••fc  4to. 

widik«o^Mt,inMfto.Mdol 

tfao  Imioit  of 


7  BrocA; 


•ofan  la  Topognio  y 
doIUH^'bf  Ankvol:  Madrid, 
I  voL  4I0. 


aska.    Fteoa 
cL,  6r.  a9e.:3dcl.,4r. 
a-dayto 


a. 

la  40 


.:ad 


MADRID  ToBADAJOZ,  LISBOTf  &  OPORTO, 


A  *■  C  J)U<-lc.K<luJmrfV 


PORTUGAL. 


Genena  Ide*.— Portugal  potMBSw 
great  attnctionf  in  the  varied  range  of 
iti  aoenery,  though,  from  the  aomewhat 
rednoed  acale  of  ita  natural  featores,  it 
seldom  acquires  that  character  of  wild 
grandeur  and  inblimity  which  ia  found  in 
8|>aniBh  landscapes.  Independently  of 
this,  it  possesses  the  great  and  permanent 
charm  of  aclimate  generally  pleasant  and 
wholesome^  a  simple-hearted,  primitiTe 
peasantry  (pietaresqne  and  altogether 
novd  in  dress  and  appearance),  and  his- 
iorical  associations  dear  to  ereiy  EngUah- 
man.  Portugal  will  fiiUl  to  interest  the 
ordinary  sightseeing  tonristi,  and  all 
art  amatenis.  Nor  is  the  lack  of  monu- 
mental records  of  the  past  anywise 
compensated  for  by  the  cheoing  spectacle 
of  modem  activity  and  enterprise,  for 
here  Queen  Indolence  reigns  supreme  orer 
a  sunrfed  population,  w1k>,  as  derotees  of 
'sweet  nothhig-toHdo,'  afford  another  in- 
stance of  the  fact,  that  whererer  nature 
assumes  her  queenly  robes,  man  is  her 
dare^  Mid  never  becomes  her  master. 

TrareUing  is  now  comparatiTely  easy 
to  what  it  used  to  be  but  a  few  years  ago : 
roads  are  generally  well  kept  up^  and 
perfectly  secure ;  and  a  very  fair  idea  of 
the  country  may  be  obtained  in  an  easy 
and  rapid  manner  by  following  the  rail- 
way lines  which  cross  the  most  important 
portions,  connecting  the  principal  cities. 
In  the  larger  towns,  the  accommodation 
is  good,  ai^  the  food  very  tolerable ;  but 
whoever  intends  visiting  the  more  out-of- 
the-way  districts,  and  exploring  the  hills 
and  their  romantic  scenery,  must  be  pre- 
pared to  rough  it  The  chargea  at  hotels, 
and  the  railway  tariffs,  are  pretty  much 
the  same  aa  in  Spain. 

Orography.  —  Portugal,  the  most 
westerly,  and  one  of  the  most  southeru 
kingdoms  of  Europe,  lies  between  8<S*  6(f 
and  42*  lO'  lat,  and  the  7th,  8th,  9th, 
and  lOthlong.  W.  Greenwich.  Its  great- 
eat  breadth  from  K  to  W.  is  about  168 
miles;  its  greatest  length  N.  to  8.  of  some 

2 


868  miles;  and  its  sufiMe^  86,180  square 
miles.  Save  on  the  west,  where  it  is 
washed  by  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  Portugal 
it  hemmed  in  on  every  side  by  Spain, 
fh>m  whidi  it  is  divided  by  &o  well- 
defined  natural  ihmtier.  It  is  really 
nothing  but  an  estrangement  of  portions 
of  Estremadura,  Oastile,  and  GalUcia,  in- 
habited by  a  people  of  the  same  origin, 
who  have  gone  astray  from  the  mother 
country.  She  stUl  claims  it  as  of  her 
own  raoe^  and  trusts  the  runaway,  how- 
ever hostile  hitherto,  may  some  dsy 
resume  her  proper  pUioe  among  the  aister 
provinces. 

Mountaina*— The  oountry  is  hilly, 
but  contains  some  very  flat  districts. 
The  hills  never  reach  in  height  anything 
approaching  to  the  Spanish  Pyrenees  or 
Siena  Nevi^  the  greatest  altitude  being 
7880  feet  (Onteiro  Maior).  The  oro- 
graphic system  ruUng  Portugal  may  be 
easily  explained.  Four  main  chaina  of 
mountains,,  each  a  prolongation  of  coiie- 
sponding  Spanish  ranges,  eroas  the  ooun- 
^,  and  gradually  subside  aa  they  near 
the  Atlantic,  into  which  they  ]dunge,  the 
last  links  of  the  riveting  .chain.  1.  La 
Seira  da  Estrelia,  the  Roman  Hmmmimi 
MoHif  forms  the  bifokbone  of  Bvtugal, 
extends  from  the  Spanish  main  oentral 
Guadanama  range^  a  prolongation  south- 
wards of  the  Pyrenean  system,  runs  east 
to  west,  and  reachea  at  its  hi^eet  peak, 
that  of  Canaris,  an  altitude  of  7600  feet 
2.  Sena  de  Gerei,  on  the  north,  whose 
highest  peak  is  7400  feet  8.  Serra  de 
Ossa  and  San  Mamedi^  a  prolongation  of 
the  Montes  de  Toledo,  2400  feet ;  and  4. 
Serra  de  Monchique  hi  the  south,  a  pro- 
longation of  Sierra  Morena,  and  whose 
highest  peak,  O  Foya,  reaches  4060  feet 
The  sea-coast  line  is  about  600  miles  in 
length,  low  on  the  north,  but  craggy  and 
steep  more  towards  the  centre,  depressed 
in  the  southern  portion  of  Alont^  and 
with  few  sandy  islets  of  any  importancs^ 
save  the  B9rlengas  groups  east  of  Penieha. 

M 


530 


PORTUQAL 


With  the  ezoeptton  of  the  Montednho 
hill,  near  Braganxa,  7100  feet»  there  are 
no  hiUe  with  perpetiud  snow. 

BiTart. — ^The  prinoipel  riTen  are  the 
Tagua  (d  T^),  which  flowa  through 
Toledo^  nms  a  oouse  parallel  to  the  Serra 
de  Brtrell*  and  Gnadamuna,  and  diMm- 
bognea  at  liabon,  being  partly  naTigable ; 
the  Dooro  (Span.  Dutn),  which,  to  a 
certain  extend  dividea  Portogal  ftom 
Spain ;  the  Guadiana,  between  Andalnoia 
and  Alemt^o,  flowing  oat  into  the  Atlan- 
tic aonth  of  the  kingdom.  There  are  a 
great  numj  more  beddee,  of  len  import- 
ance, anch  at  the  Minho^  Mondego,  Lima, 
Oarado^  Sado^  Zenre,  Tamega — upwards, 
in  all,  of  800  wateroonnes,  many  of  which 
are  dther  Tery  low  or  dried  up  in  sum- 
mer, and  become  torrents  when  swollen 
by  the  rains  and  molten  snows. 

IjakeSy  eto^ — There  are  a  few  moun- 
tain lakes,  but  of  no  importance;  salt 
marshes  et  Setubal,  and  salt  water  springs 
at  Rio  Maior,  near  Santarem.  Ifinenl 
springs  are  not  wanting^  there  being  as 
many  as  200,  the  most  important  of 
whidi  are— that  of  Rainha,  in  Bstrema- 
dura,88*Fahr.;  of  Geresandtheaulphur- 
eous  of  Alca9arias,  near  Lisbon. 

01imat«. — The  climate  is ,  generally 
healthy  and  tempetrate^  more  especially 
on  the  sea-coast  and  tiie  table-lands  in 
the  interior.  The  heat  in  summer  is 
greater  than  in  Spain,  and  insufficiently 
tempered  by  the  sea-bresMS.  The  cold 
season  begins  end  of  NoTcmber,  and  lasts 
till  end  of  February.  December  is  rainy 
and  Tery  windy ;  tiie  snow,  abundant  in 
the  northern  disteicts,  is  rare  in  the  Talleys 
of  the  interior ;  and  apring  is  ererywhoe 
roost  delic^tfd.  There  is  great  variety, 
according  to  the  situation,  differences  of 
altitude^  proximity  to  the  sea  and  hiUs. 
Ooimbre  is  said  to  be  more  temperate 
than  Liabon,  but  more  rainy  and  less 
healthy;  Oporto  is  wet  and  cloudy  in 
winter ;  colder  then,  and  warmer  in  sum- 
mer, than  any  other  place  in  the  aame 
latitude.  The  dimate  of  the  prorince  of 
Algarre  is  delightftil  in  winter  and  spring. 
The  districts  south  of  Tsgus,  Tidnity  of 
Setubal,  etc.,  are  unhealthy.  The  most 
agreeable  and  best  suited  to  invalids  is 
perhaps  that  of  Ointre  (see  Lisbon). 


Natuml  Prodaotiona. — ^The  soQ  is 
generally  rich  and  very  fertile  in  the 
watered  Talleys.  The  flore  ia  yaried.  The 
hills  are  clothed  with  firs,  holm-oaks,  oaka, 
chestnuts,  and  birch,  which  latter  are  met 
on  the  higher  aummits.  Oak-forssts 
succeed;  and  gradually  lower  the  ooik- 
tre^  carob^  kermes,  lemon,  orange^  oUtc, 
and,  in  the  warmest  sheltered  rei^oos,  the 
aloe  and  date.  The  moat  characteristio 
flora  of  Fortttgal  is  found  in  the  vidleys 
of  Minho  and  Beira.  FraiVtrees  of 
all  kindi  thrive  plentiftilly:  upwards  of 
200  million  orangea  are  yeariy  gathered, 
and  are  perfaapa  the  best  in  tlM  world; 
seven  million  kilogrammea  of  flga  are  pro- 
duced; com  grows^  especially  on  the 
table-lands  of  Alemt^  TrasKW-Mcotss^ 
and  Minho.  The  vaUeys  prodnee  excel- 
lent wine,  each  as  Oporto  (port  wine),  of 
Gaicavelos,  andSetnbal,  of  which  threemil- 
Uon  hectolitres  are  yeariy  obtained.  Cattle 
and  sheep  are  reared,  thwe  being  upwards 
of  two  and  a  half  million  heads  of  latter; 
but  both  the  flesh  and  wool  are  of  inferior 
kind,  owing  to  the  want  and  poverty  of 
pasture-land.  Mules  and  asses  are  almost 
exclusively  used  as  beasti  of  burden,  and 
hoFMS  are  of  an  inferior  breed.  Excellent 
fish  abound  in  the  riven  and  on  the 
coasts,  and  there  is  some  good  shooting 
during  the  winter  months. 

Manufkotvrea  are  backward,  and 
limited  to  woollens  at  Fortalegre,  cotton- 
spinning  at  Thomar,  fine  linens  at  Gui- 
maraens,  Jewellery  at  Braga,  and  ailka  al 
Bragansa.  Lisbon  and  Porto  are  the  chief 
centoes  of  the  manufacturing  as  well  as  of 
the  commercial  movement  of  the  kingdom. 
The  mineral  wealth  is  said  to  be  great, 
but  very  much  ne^ected.  Mines  are  now 
being  wmked  in  Bitremadura.  Oopperis 
found  and  considembly  extracted  at  Fil- 
hal ;  lead  at  Brafal,  in  the  aame  district 
The  principal  mine  is,  however,  the  copper 
one  of  S.  Domingo,  near  Y  ilUoeal,  in  the 
Algarve.  Some  coal  is  found  near  Buareoa; 
and  fine  marble  quarries  are  numerona. 

Trade. — ^The  principal  exports  are 
wine  (vines  occupy  a  smfMe  of  about 
812,600  acrea),  which  is  carried  on  prin- 
cipally by  En^^ish  firms;  vinegars,  oil, 
dry  tram,  com,  etc  In  1805,  the  impoiti 
amounted  to  24,822,684   milrais  ;   the 


FORTUOAL. 


631 


exports,  22,181»608 ;  maldiig  a  to^  of 
46,064»042.  The  prindpel  foreign  ports 
with  which  trade  is  carried  on  are  Ei^^h 
or  BrasiUan.  In  1866, 19,000  ihipo  left 
and  entered  Portagneae  ports. 

StaMsMot,  cle^— Portngal,  tonaetlj,  and  &r 
mora  natunOf,  divided  into  aerea  pcoriDcet  or 
kingdonw,  hat  been  rabdivided,  since  ifjs,  into 
seventeen  districts  or  admidstngOet.  The 
former  MittMc  now  contains  die  district  of 
Braga,  Vienna,  Porto ;  that  of  TVn-^MmUt, 
Brafana  and  ViOafeal ;  JMns,  ATeiro»  Castal- 
lobranco,  Coimbra,  Goarda,  Visen.  Mshwmm 
durm  cmmiiises  Lisbon,  Ldria,  and  Santarem ; 
theoldkii^domof  ^(psmr.  Faro;  AUmi^0, 
Beja,  Evora,  and  Portalegre.  Each  is  sub- 
divided again  into  ooncelhos,  tlie  Aatorian  con- 
ccjos,  and  those  into  parishes. 

The  popolatioo  of  continental  PMtngal  is 
3,986,558;  of  its  European  isknds  and  BCndeiia, 
363,658;  of  its  African  and  Asiatic  colonies, 
3,88i,oea ;  making  a  total  of  8,33x,s38.  The 
aKHUudiy  is  constitutional,  with  two  houses  of 
paifiamant ;  and  the  budget  lor  1867-68  was 
lefeuus,  16,884,419  mifaeis ;  the  expenses, 
^^5*979  niheis;  the  public  debt  (1865), 
191,045,054  mibeis.  The  army  (1867)  was  of 
84,848  men,  exclusive  of  soose  ai,ooo  colonial 
troops :  its  cost,  £f9(>^ooo.  The  navy  consists 
of  47  ships,  out  of  which  a6  are  armed  with  343 
guns,  mwffTv>4  by  3493  fmfw  and  marines,  and 
M6  ofliceis,  widi  a  yearly  cost  of  /s4o^ooo. 
There  are  sixteen  ioctified  places,  of  which 
Elvas,  Estremos,  Peniche,  Va)en9a,  are  the 
most  important  The  chief  ports  are  Lisbon, 
Porto,  Rgueira,  SetuvaL  Public  instruction  is 
well  orga^sed :  a  good  untveisity  at  Coimbra, 
and  academia  at  Porta 

Uatavy.— The  Portuguese  are  thought  to  be 
of  Celtic  origin,  and  formed  the  largest  portion 
of  Roman  tetania,  so  called,  say  the  learned, 
from  Lysias,  the  son  of  Bacchus ;  Portugal,  its 
subsequent  name,  being  derived  from  ^  city 
of  Porto,  near  whidi  stood  the  Roman  town 
Calle,  which,  beii«  Joined,  made  Porto-Calle : 
though  it  may  be  mote  likely  to  suppose  that 
tbe  former  La  tm  appellation  was  dropped  when 
tbe  otner  most  important  territory  about  Porto 
was  repeopled,  and  die  dty  rebmlt  by  Gascons 
and  rVench ;  whence  Portas  Callus,  or  GaUo- 
ram.  ^le  Roman  dominion  lasted  five  cen* 
turies  and  a  half;  die  Visigothio  began  A.D. 
588;  the  Moorish,  714.  From  the  Moors, 
PMtttgal  was  wrested  by  the  Asturiaa-Spaniards. 
It  subsequently  became  part  of  die  kingdom  of 
Leon,  whose  king,  Alfonso  VI.,  in  1095,  be- 
stowed it  in  fief  to  Count  Henry  of  Burgimdy, 
grandson  of  Duke  Robert  I.,  one  of  the  many 
fortune  seeking  nobles  of  that  age  who  resorted 


to  Spain  to  fi|^  the  infidd  and  better  their 
pronects.  He  was  enunently  successful  against 
dm  Moor,  and,  as  a  reward,  obtained  dm  hand 
of  the  monarch's  natnrsl  daughter,  with  Portu- 
gal as  her  dowry.  Afibnso  Henriques,  die 
Countfs  son,  became  independent,  and,  after 
die  battle  of  Ouriqne,  1139,  was  prodaiawd 
king  of  PortQgaL  The  house  of  Burgundy 
lasted  until  1385,  iHien  Pbttugal  roee  to  great 
political  importance  and  commfidal  proepenty. 
The  kingdom,  originally  limited  to  the  territory 
between  Mmno  and  the  Xagus,  was  consider* 
ably  aggrandised  by  the  successive  annexatione 
of  Aleaitejo,  dktrict  of  Lisbon,  part  of  Spanish 

AfibnsoL,  and  of  the  Algarves,  under  Aftmso 
in.  Themonardisof  the  house  of  Avis,  who 
succeeded  during  die  years  1385  lo  1580^  ob- 
tamed  important  Iciiilones  in  N •  Africa, 
founded  colonies  in  India  and  Bnril,  and  pro- 
Bsoted  the  great  discoveries  of  die  age.  August 
4,  1576,  was  fought  the  disastrous  battle  of 
Alcocer  Quibir,  celdMrated  for  die  routing  of 
uie  P'^TtuguTfft,  and  m  which  the  flower  of  the 
nobifity  was  mowed  down  by  die  Moots.  Tim 
disappearance  of  King  Don  Sebastiaa  was  the 
origm  of  an  extraotdamry  supctstnoo,  which 
roee  ahnftst  to  a  sect,  ctdled  dm  Sebastianists, 
who  firmly  believed  in  the  indnortaKty  of  their . 
king  O  enooberto,  uie  hidden  one  who 
was  to  return  from  captivity  and  restore  the 
kii^dom  to  its  ancient  qilendour.  Thisdelnsioa 
has  not  ceased  to  this  day,  though  it  is  now 
limited  to  the  ignorant,  rude  inhabitants  of  the 
wild  mountam  districts.  On  the  death  of  the 
King>Cardinal  Henrique,  in  1580^  the  sucom 
sion  to  die  crown  was  diqmted  by  Philip  II.  of 
^Mun,  who  was  descended,  by  his  modier,  of 
the  royal  blood  of  PMtugal;  by  Jolo,  Duke 
of  Bragansa ;  and  many  other  pietenders.  The 
claims  of  Philips  supported  by  die  Duke  of 


Alva's  armies. 


sucoessfuDy  asserted ;  and 


the  Spanish  dominion,  called  by  the  Portuguese 
dm  'Sixty  Years'  Captivity,'  kstad  till  1640^ 
when,  under  Philip  IV.,  a  conspiracy  broke  out 
at  Lisbon,  headed  by  the  Duke  of  Bn^ama, 

don  the  country.  Under  the  house  of  Bra- 
gansa,  which  sdO  reigns,  Portugal  recovered 
part  of  her  former  proq>erity.  On  the  French 
invasion,  in  1807,  the  Court  retired  to  BraaiL 
The  Portuguese,  allied  to  Spaniardi,  rose 
against  the  invader,  requesting  the  help  of  Great 
Brifrun,  never « b  perMe  Albion.*  whan  her  aid 
is  wanted.  In  vain  did  die  best  Frea^  amr- 
shab— Massena,  Junot,  Souh— endeavour  to 
repress  nie  movement  of 
Anglo-Pottngueee  army  was 

and  after  several  campaigns  and  strategic 
wiDcaakh%h 


5S2 


PORTUOAU 


of  Eng<and*«  aS&taiy  glory,  die  Frendi  wtrt 
•xpdled.  The  Court,  till  i8ai,  conrinued  to 
fcside  in  Braiil,  when  Don  JoAo  VI.  at  the 
rammons  of  the  Cortes  returned  to  PortugaL 
Braiil  became  an  independent  empire  die 
ensuing  year,  with  the  king*!  son,  Don  Pedro, 
for  emperor.  A  civil  war  broke  out  at  the 
deadi  of  Don  JoAo,  who  had  left  the  crown  to 
his  daughter  Domm  Maria  de  Gloria,  on  con- 
dition of  her  marrying  her  undo,  Don  Miguel 
Once  mme  did  an  English  army,  15,000  strong, 
enter  Portugal  and  put  things  to  r^ts;  and 
since  that  time  the  country,  constitutionally 
govetned,  is  prosperous  on  the  whole,  though 
doomed,  as  dl  southern  nations,  to  occasionsl 
outbreaks  of  ▼itrfence  and  snatches  of  undo- 
fined  independence  common  to  climes  where 
political  consdtutioos  either  burst  or  mdt— 
regions  of  Tines  and  volcanoes. 

Tianguago— lAtegaturerf— The  language  of 
Portugal  is  derived  finom  the  Latin,  and  coa> 
tains  a  great  oumy  Celtic^  Gothic  uid  Aiabic 
words,  and,  more  latterly,  some  French.  It 
bean  great  resemblalioe  to  the  Gallidan  dialect, 
the  Romanic  tongue  of  that  part  of  Spain  vary- 
ing  somewhat  both  as  to  proounciatioo  and  ex- 
pressions according  to  pnudmity  to  Estremadura, 
Andalusia,  or  the  north  Spanish  provinces.  It 
Is  softer  than  Spanish,  being  firee  finom  the  harsh 
Arabic  gutturals,  and  abounds  in  words  and 
terminations  of  great  ddicacy  and  clurm,  but  its 
nasal  sounds  are  not  pleasant ;  and  though  grave 
and  sonorous,  somewhat  *  finchado,*  it  is  on  the 
whole  inferior  to  the  more  harmonious,  ridier, 
and  more  nervous  Spanish.  English  and  French 
are  spoken  only  in  the  large  cities,  and  this  to 
no  extent  Save  on  die  fiontiers,  even  Spanish 
is  scarcely  understood.  Portuguese  literature, 
though  not  considerable,  and  less  important 
than  thatof  anyother  southern  European  nation, 
has  nevertheless  produced  several  writera  of 
genius  and  great  scholarihlp.  The  sixteenth 
century  was  the  Augustan  age  of  Portugneae 
letters^  bringing  forth  such  men  as  r*— »^»— 
among  poets,  the  greatest  of  the  country,  and 
author  of  'As.Lusiadas,' xst7>x579;  the  pas- 
toral poet,  SaHi-Miranda;  in  the  draasa,  A. 
Perriera,  x7s8-69;  GQ  Vicente,  1480-1557;  the 
historians,  toAo  de  Barras,  1570 ;  Albuquerque, 
>4S**X5 :  Biito,  etc ;  and  in  the  seventeenth 
oeirtury  Maniino's  ^lic  poems;  Ptoreira  de 
Castro,  X57i-i63« ;  Mascarenhas,  Maoedos,  etc ; 
and,  Uter  still,  Herculano,  the  best  historian ; 
the  cosmographen  and  discoverers,  MagaUuMos 
(oar  MageOan),  B.  Dias,  Vasoo  de  Gama,  etc 
(See  GkMary.  p.  534.) 

Ma*  Arts.— In  this  raspecc  POftqgal  ruda 
very  kyw  among  nations.  Artists  of  talent  there 
have  been,  but  no  ssan  of  genius  except  Gran 
Vaaopb  who  lived  in  the  fifteenth  ceatuiy,  and 


whose  best  pictures  are  seen  in  Lisboo.  lathe 
seventeenth  century  there  were  a  few  good 
painters^  such  as  Bento  Coelho,  Diogo  Pmira 
Manoel  Pereira,  d'Avellar,  and  Fkandscol^eira, 
in  the  e^hteeitth.  The  characteristic  ieatura 
oftheir  painting  is  colouring,  the  subjects  mostly 
rdigious  or  all^:orica],exceptVieira,  who  painted 
forihe  Court.  Of  architectural  renuuns  of  any 
importance  there  are  few,  and  these  moidy  mo- 
dernised, owing  to  finequent  earthquakes  hijur- 
ing  the  former  buildings,  to  the  devastations 
committed  during  wan,  and  the  mania  of  re- 
building  peculiar  to  the  eighteenth  century. 
The  principal  bniMiags  to  notice  are— Church 
of  Bdem  and  Carmo  (Lisboo) ;  the  fourteenth 
century  Church  of  Batalha;  Cathedrals  of 
Coimbra  and  Braga :  Akobafa,  Lamego^  etc 

Tho  Peoplo,  PrsBS,  etcp-'nie  chararter  of 
the  peasantry,  their  dress  and  manners,  differ  a 
good  deal  according  to  the  provinces.  They 
are  on  the  whole  remarkable  fiv  their  piety, 
bordering  on  superstition,  their  loyalty,  primi- 
ttveness,  and  sinq^licity,  want  of  enterprise,  ac- 
tivity, love  of  'siesta'  and  'ssafiona,'  in  a  word 
that  tMM/ig/'fMm/r  which  qmrs  on  less  lavoored 
peoples  to  work  and  looking  about  They  ara 
silent,  trustworthy,  sensitive,  temperate,  fond 
of  grandiloquence,  of  no  great  physical  beaitfy, 
devoid  of  quickness,  readywit,  or  of  much  ima- 
gination. The  feoules  are  very  domestic,  ami- 
able, and  retired.  The  dress  is  picturesque, 
especially  in  the  N.  provinces,  but  not  so 
pleasing  or  striking  as  it  b  in  Spain. 

.  TraTellingSeMon.— The  belt  season 
if  aatomn  and  springy  aod  espedslly 
inmmer  in  some  of  the  northen  hilly 
districts.  September  and  October  are 
Ytrj  agreeable  months,  as  well  as  April 
and  part  of  May. 

Inns.— Hotds  of  any  importance  mnst 
not  be  looked  for  except  in  the  laigest 
towns.  In  the  rest,  there  are  small,  gener> 
ally  ill-proTided  inna,  called  'estidj^em,' 
and  roadside  pot-honses  or  Tendss.  The 
charge  at  hotels  Taries  firom4s.  to  7s.  a^y. 

OonTeyanoea. — In  the  interior  of  the 
country  roads  are  seklom  good.  Here 
and  there  hired  carrisges  with  two  places, 
drawn  by  two  males,  can  be  obtained  for 
short  Jonraeys ;  they  are  called  TVu^ni* 
ianhoi.  Where  there  are  no  roads, 
litters  (UtHnu)  are  used,  carried  by  mulea, 
one  at  each  end.  Some  eight  leagues 
a-day  can  be  performed  in  this  manner, 
and  at  the  rate  of  8a.  to  4s.  a  league. 
IVavelling  on  mules  Is  also  resorted  to ; 
it  costs  some  lis.  to  14s.  per  league  for 


to  be  proei 
Owtranon 
MnlinMii] 
oout.  Ti 
drtnk.  TI 
delldani  i 

ld0ll4    OTVQ 


Tluha  rail 
thaplDt. 

gtl  mtj  i 
GngUnd,  1 
Soathunpl 
Oompui^ 


*80i.  -oi« 
LiaboD :  P 
elo.)  cm  ( 
log,  Inthii 


bdolld,  Zi 

MoDtM-^ 

■(inPottug 


Joi,  bf  nl 

dUigsocs  0 

Skalab 

toanpid 

Portapl:- 


68i 


POBTUOAL. 


OOBBIHT  OonfAOI. 


Namt. 


Copp&T, 


Olneordi  6  rate 

Dizraii  lOreis 

1  Vintem  20  reii 

IPlkUca  40raii 

Silcet, 
Heio  (i)  toftao  60  rail 
IT^sUo  100  ni8 

Doit(2)te8to«i200rais 
Oinco  (5)  tee- ) 

to«i,orhAlf-  >  600  rate 

dollar    .      ) 

'^?n«.liooo»i. 

(ML 


Eaglkh. 
0    0| 

0   oi 

0    1    (aboat) 
0    2 

0    2* 
0    6 
0  10 

2    8 


4    0 


£    *.    ^. 
118 


1  2 

2  4 


2i 
6 


Mo6dA(Moidon)    4800  rais 
MeiaOoroa(half- )  ^^^  ^ 

crown    •    •    ) 
1  Coroa  .  10,000  rate 

The  cento,  equlTalent  to  one  million 
rate,  te  equal  to  about  £222. 
1  Franch  franc-piece  » 260  raia. 
60  Oentimee=l  testao. 
6  Fnno-pieceslOOO  rait. 
Sptfiiah  nal=s60  reis. 
21  Reates  1000  rate. 
1,000,000  Betes 21,040  raals. 

"Welshia  and  Meaaurea— iTeafiiret. 

^The  pound,  or  arraiel,  te  divided  into 

two  marcas8  ounce8=s8  oitarees72 
graini.  The  arratel  te  equal  to  460 
French  grammes.  82  amUeii  make  1 
arrobe,  or  14  kilogrammea,  688  grammes ; 
and  4  arrobes  1  quintel = 68  kilogrammes 
762  grammes.  Long  Meantre — ^The  Por- 
tuguese foots 82  centimetres  86  milli- 
metres. The  Tara  « 1  milUmetra  10  centi- 
metres. The  coTados68  centimetres, 
llie  land-measura  geiraa-68  ares  276 
centians.  The  Portoguese  league  of  18 
to  a  degraes6  kOoroetres,  662  metres: 
about  8  miles,  2  furlongs,  188  yards. 
T%e  tfjuU  vMosiirs*— 1  almnde  s  16  Utres 
061  decilitres.  1  quartilho,  about  half^ 
litre.  The  alqueira  (used  for  grain)  sl8 
litras816decmtres.  The  dedmal  system 
te  obligatory  in  Portugal 

A  abort  Oloaaary  of  some  of  the 
most  useful  words : — 


EngUah. 

Gireme 
Some  bread 

meat 

wine 

beer 

fruit 
An  orange 
Anaprioot 
Beef 
Mutton 
Veal 
Ham 
Boast 
BoUed 
I  haye 
To  hare 
Bring  me  * 
Tea 

Bgg« 
Butter 

Milk 

A  knife 

A  fork 

A  spoon 

Aplato 

A  napkin 

Abottie 

AhOFM 

Muleteer 

A  ferry 

Post-office 

Fountain 

Asquara 

A  shop 

Palace 

lliehour 

One,   two,   three»< 
four,  five,  six, 
seyen,      eight, 
nine,  ten,  eleyen, 

.  twelve,  thirteen, 
twenty,  thirty 

One  hundred 

One  thousand 

A  church 

Apark 

Road 

House 

What  te  the  name 
ofthatt 

First-class 

Luggage 

BaUway 


D6me 

Pad  (akXa^fBran) 
Oune(/.) 
yinho(M.) 
Oerfnta(/.) 
Fmta  (/.) 
Uma  lara^Ja  (/.) 
Um  damasoo  (».) 
Vaca(/.) 
Oanieiro(«k) 
Vitella  (/.) 
Frasunto(«k) 
Assado 
Oosida 
Tenho 

Hayerortsr 
TYase-me 
Ohi(«k) 
Oyos(«k) 
Msnteiga  (/) 
Leito(m.) 
Uma  faca  (/,) 
Um  garfo  (si.) 
Uma  colher  (/.) 
Um  prato  (m.) 
Uma  toalha  (/.) 
Uma  garrafa  (/.) 
Um  cayallo  (ak) 
Arrieiro(ai.). 
Uma  barca  (/.) 
Corraio  (m.) 
•  Chafarixe 
Largo  or  praoa 
Uma  loja  (/. ) 
Paco 
Ahora 

Um,  dousytres,  cua- 
tro,cinoo,'seis,sete, 
oito,  noTe,  des,ou2e, 
doie,  treae,  yintSb 
trinta 

Cem 

MU 

Ignja 

Umatapada 

Oaminho 

Oua 

I  Oomo  se  ehama  iato  t 

Um  primeiro  logar 
Bagagem 
Oaminho  da  ferro 


bS6 


LISBON. 


AM^port  0^iitelorPoitQgi],aiidof 
the  ProTinoe  of  Brtranadim.  Ardi- 
bithoprie.  Pop.  276^000,  tabubt  in- 
cluded. 


tht  Royd  MdlStMa  PkdMt 
Coapftny  dwp>>ch.  a  tttMMt 
from  SovthaapCoa  on  9th  of 
every  mooth,  imk«  that  date  thoold  &11  on  a 
Sunday,  when  it  leaTes  the  followinf  day.  The 
paoMge  ia  pafonned  in  3}  days.  Fares,  i^ie, 
ii^ia  Steamers  of  the  Peninsular  and  Oriental 
Steam  Navigation  Company  leave  SoothampCon 
on  7th,  STth,  and  STth  of  every  month,  lognineas: 
ejwidlent  accoouiodation,  cuisine,  etc. 

By  rail  to  Pferis,  Bordeaux, 
embark  to  Lisbon  (see  yrvm 
Fr€mct),  or  Havre,  or  Marwines, 
'  going  round  by  the  Spanish  coast 
oe^  by  sea.— From  Havre,  steam- 
ers of  Compagnie  Franoo-Ame- 
ricaine,  leave  on  ad  of  every 
month.  Four  days.  Fares, 
ssofr.s;^^.  Excellent  Also,  every  fifteen 
days,  a  steamer  of  Compagnie  Gle.  dea  Bat 
h  Vapw  Fluviale  et  Bfaritime;  fares,  ist  cL, 
i6ofr.  They  proceed  afterwards  to  Cadis, 
Gibraltar,  and  Malaga.  From  Bordeaux,  3I 
days.  The  first-rate  steamers  of  Messageries 
Imperiales  leave  S5th  of  every  month.  Fares: 
i(^t9,and;C6:6s.;  children  under  ^  free ;  from 
3  to  8,  quarter  fare,  etc. 

By   rail,    Paris  to   Bayoone, 
whence  either  by  Madrid,  or  by 
Gaticia,  to  OpoctOk  or  by  Estra- 
madura. ' 
OCbvaltar.  by  sea.— Steamers  of  Com- 
pagnie Fhiviale,  Maritime,  leave 
6th,  16th,  and    86th  of   cnch 
month.    Fare,  /^ ;  time,  36hrs. 
From  Cadis,  by  same  company's  steamers, 
leave,  7th,  17th,  and  STth.    Fare,  ;C3- 
VnmSeviUa.— Diligtnce  and    riding  by 
Fnente  de  Cantos,  or  by  Niebia, 
S.  Lucar  de  Goadiana,  B^a, 
thence  by  rail:   or  by  rafl  to 
"Badi^  and  direct  raiL     Not 


Madrid,  the  flMSt  direct.— By  rail 

throughout,   distance,   879  kil. ; 

time,  96  hrs.  4>  min.     N.B.^ 

Lbbon  tioM  is  %$  minutes  slower 

'than  Madrid.     Fares:   ist  cL, 

jSor.  50c. ;  ad  cL,  a9ir.    46  "  —**^ 


I  Spanish  real ;  tSo  nSamt 
Merida,BadiOoc,Abraates,SantareaL  €oup^ 
with  beds,  may  be  obtafaiod,  10  per  cent  00  price 
of  three  fir8t<lam  tidceta.    Madrid  tenalnus  of 
Atocha.    Follow  Madrid  to  Alicante  line,  as 
fiir  as  Alcaaar  de  San  Juan.     Carriages  are 
^\^m^  S5  Bin.  stopu    The  Andahnian  line  b 
now  followed  to  Mansanares,  where  carriages 
are  changed  again,  IS  min.  stopu    Vines  and 
well-cultivated  pbhis  are  aeen  in  every  direc- 
tion, and  Dmhmtl  is  reached ;  an  fanportant 
town  of  La  Mancha,  13,000  inhab.,  ill  buih, 
and  devoid  of  interest      The  fertile  cotn- 
growing  and  pasture  land  around  it  is  known 
bythenameof 'ElCampo  de  Caktrava,' for- 
merly the  estates  of  the  wealthy  military  order 
of  that  name,  suppressed  S5S3  by  the  Catholic 
Kings ;  but  existing  stiQ  in  a  modified  manner. 
i4i!NM|^,  14,000  inhab.,  appears  onlefkof  the 
line,  once  exclusively  inhabited  by  nsonks  and 
Calatniva  knights ;  now  hwpottant  as  being  the 
chief  manufiKitaring  town  of  La  Mancha,  where 
blondes  and.  lace  are  smde  and  exported  to 
Psris.     Sooie  lace-manufacturers  empkiy  as' 
many  as  9000  work-women.     On  leaving  Al- 
magro,  the  country  becomes  triste  and  ua- 
btere^ii^.  The  sombre  olive  clothes  the  sk)pes 
of  SiiemMorenaonourright ;  after  crossing  Mig- 
oeltmia,  we  readi  CiMdmd  Rtml^  is,ooo  inhab., 
capital  of  province  of  same  name,  andfbrmeriy 
of  U  Mandm  ijlnmti  Fonda  de  Miraddo,  de 
ks  MorerMX      In  a  plain  watered  by  the 
Gnadiana,  an  old  dty  with  little  to  hiterest  save 
the  Colegiate,  a  Gothic  churdi  of  one  very 
large  nave,  a  good  Coro,  and  well  sculptured 
retablo,  widi  figures  and  scenes  from  New  Tes- 
tament   Near  ArgmtmmtUU  it  Cmimirmpm  b 
the  rivulet,  and  not  far  from  it,  the  hamlet  of 
Tbteafuera,  the  birthplace  of  Sanchoe  Panais, 
Doctor  Pedro  Reck>,   when    Don  Quixote's 
squire  became  governor  of  Barataria.    Onthe 
right  stretches   Sierra  de  Sante  Brigida,  the 
country  becomes  tasner  and  tasner,  and  several 
wretched  depopulated  hamletsare  croeaed :  the 
watering-pbce    of    Puerto  Mano  (a   fcrrug. 
spring):  the  minii^  A  ftmmdm  (see  that  name) ; 
the  coal  district  of  Bdmes,  to  which  a  special 
rail  from  Aimmvkm,  and  we  arrive  at 

MdridA.— /iMU  .*  Fonda  del  Leon,  de 
lai  Diligendai ;  pop.  5000.  Thk  town, 
the  Borne  of  Spdn,  to  which  its  mine 
bear  testimony,  and  considered  by  tome 
•8  its  rival,  is  sitnated  on  the  ri^ht  bank 
of  the  Gnadiana,  and  Is  oroased  by  » 


636 


LISBON. 


Bomaa  bridge  of  eighty-one  anshee, 
2576  ft  long,  26  fL  broad,  and  88  fL 
aboTe  the  river.  M^rida,  onoe  ao  proeper- 
ona,  great,  and  denaely  peopled,  ia  now 
truly  fallen  firom  ita  blgheat  atate,  poverty- 
atridLen,  and,  like  the  lion  of  the  fable, 
^dien  he  had  grown  weak  and  hii  dawa 
were  worn  out,  ia  baaely  aoomed  and  ne- 
^ected  by  thoae  npatart  citiea  oyer  which 
ita  ahadow  onoe  extended.  Ita  walla  were 
6  leagnea  in  eiicumferenoe^  and  were 
atrengthened  by  oubo  towera,  and  pierced 
by  eighty-four  gatea;  80,000  foot  aoldiera 
and  10,000  horaemen  formed  ita  garriaon. 
It  ia,  indeed,  a  city  of  manrela,  little  and 
imperfectly  known,  and  the  Moor  Raais 
had  it  that '  qnenonha  home  en  el  mnndo 
que  enmplidamente  paeda,  oontar  laa 
maravillaa  de  M^rida.  Smerita  Angnata 
waa  founded  28  B.a,  and  the  yeterana 
(Emeriti)  who  had  aerved  in  Calabria  were 
quATtered  here  by  Angnatoa.  It  became 
the  capital  of  Lnaitania.  The  Ootha 
apared  the  Roman  worka  and  built  an 
alcasar.  It  waa  taken  by  Alfonao  the 
Learned  1220.  Hie  principal  aighta  are 
El  Ti^amar,  a  Boman  dyke  of  maaonry 
executed  to  protect  the  bridge  againat  in- 
undationa.  The  Arch  of  Santiago,  44  fL 
high,  built  by  Tn^  aa  well  aa  the  bridge 
and  much  mutiUted  temple  of  Diana, 
now  the  Palado  of  Oonde  de  loa  Corboe, 
where  admire  the  columna  and  other  Tea- 
tigea  of  Boman  art  The  mine  of  the 
temple  of  Mara,  the  amphitheatre  outaide 
the  town  to  eaat— called  familiariy  Laa 
aiete  Slllaa,  fh>m  the  aerentiera  into  which 
the  aeata  are  divided.  The  proeceninm 
la  wanting  alone  that  it  ahould  be  perfect 
The  nanmachi*— commonly  called  Ba&o 
deloaBomaooa.  The  celebrated  aqueduct, 
which  conaiated  of  three  tiera  of  archea, 
and  brought  the  water  4  milea  diatant, 
and  of  which  there  only  remain  now  aome 
thirty  pillara  called  Loa  Mflagroe ;  another 
aqueduct,  alao  Roman,  and  which  conaLsta 
of  140  archea.  The  Circua  Maxiroua, 
once  the  Roman  Hippodrome,  in  a  hollow 
to  right  of  Madrid  road,  1860  ft  long  by 
886  ft  wide ;  eight  tiera  of  aeata  atiU 
remain ;  from  it  the  view  of  M^da  will 
pleaae  the  artiat'a  eye.  The  forum  atood 
near  the  convent  de  laa  Deacalzaa,  of  which 
aome  faw  ahafta  of  cdumna  are  all  that 


remain.  Vlait  alao  the  aemi-Mooriah 
palace  of  Oondea  de  la  Roca;  an  excnraioa 
may  be  made  8  m.  north  to  Lago  de  Pro- 
aerpinaand  GQiaroa  de  la  Albufera.  The 
huge  Boman  reaervotra,  the  towera  of 
which  are  atill  called  Rodnea.  6  m.  from 
Tn^illanoe  ia  another  large  reaervoir  called 
Albuera  de  Oomalvo. 

BadajOB.-vrnjif ;  Laa  IVea  Nadonea^ 
and  El  Panaeco.  Pbp.  22,896  (1860). 
Capital  of  province  of  aame  name^  and 
captaincy-general  of  Eatremadura»  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  Guadiana,  which  la  joined 
here  by  the  Rivillaa.  The  town  atanda 
pictureaqudy  on  the  alopea  of  a  hill,  which 
are  crowned  by  the  rnina  of  an  old  caatle. 
Though  the  largeat  town  in  Eatremadura, 
and  a  biahop'a  aea^  it  ia  but  dull,  without 
many  hiatorical  aaaodationa.  The  Oampo 
de  San  Juan  ia  a  large  aquare^  where  atand 
the  cathedral,  town-hall,  theatre,  prindpal 
ahopa  ;  in  the  centre  ia  the  ahady  aalon, 
the  moat  faahionable  promenade.  The 
churchea  are  not  remarkable.  The  ca- 
thedral, aa  becomea  a  church  dtuated  on 
an  expoeed  firontier,  partakee  of  the  for> 
treaa  atyle,  and  ia  bombproof.  The  in* 
terior  conaiata  of  three  navea,  with  an 
unmeaning  high  altar,  and  a  line  tomb  of 
Biahop  Marin  dd  Rodema  .The  aOleria 
ia  well  carved.  There  are  aome  good  pie- 
turea — a  Magdalen  by  Cereio,  and  in  the 
chapd  the  Sta.  Ana.  Several  pictuna  by 
Moralea,  a  Badi^  artiat,  and  called  1^ 
aome  the  Parmegiano  of  Spain.  The 
doiatera  are  fine.  In  the  church  de  la 
Ooncepdon  are  two  Moralea,  unfortunately 
retoudied.  The  bridge  aeroaa  the  river 
ia  a  fine  woric  of  Herrera.  Bad^|os  ia 
familiar  to  readera  of  hiatory  of  the  Penln* 
aular  war.  It  waa  bedeged  by  Maiahal 
Soult  in  February  1811,  and  thouf^  the 
place  waa  well  fortified,  and  had  a  atrong 
garriaon  under  the  crdera  of  General 
Menacho^  and  moreover  waa  protected  by 
an  auxiliary  force  eatabUahed  in  the  iiH 
trenched  camp  of  Santa  Engrada,  it  at 
length  aurrendered  to  the  French,  thla 
aucoeaa  being  principally  the  reault  of  the 
death  of  the  governor,  and  the  previoM 
anoceaaftil  attack  and  poaaeaaioo  of  the 
camp  ;  but  no  aooner  had  the  worka  be«k 
repaired,  than  Marshal  Bereaford,  who 
commanded  the  AnghhPortugneae  army, 


LISBON. 


537 


muldenly  appesrad,  and  faiTwted  the  town. 
Manhil  Soult,  who  was  than  at  Oadis, 
hastened  back  at  the  head  of  17,000  men. 
The  allied  annj  met  them  at  Albnera, 
fought  braTdy,  yet  would  hare  lost  the 
day  through  the  weakened  position  occn- 
pi^  by  Marshal  Beresfoid,  who  even 
ordered  the  retreat^  but  was  ssTed  by  Earl 
Harding  and  the  67th.  The  French  loss 
amounted  to  between  8000  and  9000  men, 
and  that  of  the  allies  to  5828.  TheDuke 
of  Wellington,  after  the  capture  of  Oiudad 
Rodrigo,  lost  no  time  in  attacking  Badi^oi, 
March  1812.  The  i^ace  wss  defended  by 
PhUippon  and  5000  French.  The  trenches 
were  opened  the  Tery  day  of  the  Duke's 
arrival,  for  no  time  was  to  be  lost,  as 
Soult  was  on  his  march  ih>m  SeriUe,  4nd 
Marmont  from  Osstile.  On  Aprfl  8,  the 
assault  took  place  on  the  8.B.  of  the  dty. 
The  resistance  was  tremendous.  Oolrille 
Bumard's  troops  were  mowed  down. 
Walker's  division  (the  5th)  got  in  at  the 
San  Vicente  bastion  W.  of  the  town,  and 
Picton  carried  the  castle  to  the  N.B.,  thus 
winning  the  day.  The  town  was  sacked, 
and  the  Duke  and  officers  were  unable  to 
prerent  most  deplorable 


The  Portuguew  frootier  is  reached  toon  after 
leaving  Badt^ ;  the  river  Cayad  is  croMed, 
which  separates  here  Spain  from  Poftugal,  near 
which,  in  138s,  King  Fernando  I.  of  Portugal, 
heading  an  army  16,000  strong,  including  isoo 
English  soldiers  under  the  Earl  of  Cambridge, 
met  the  CastiKan  troops  commanded  by  Don 
Juan,  and  witnessed  a  tournament,  in  which 
Miles  Windsor  was  knitted  by  '  the  souldich 
de  b  Trane.' 

Ehuu,  the  first  Portuguese  town,  pop.  19,000, 
bishop's  see,  the  most  important  fortified  city  in 
the  kingdom,  situated  on  a  rugged  hill  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Guadiana.  Its  fortifications 
are  among  the  strongest  in  Europe.  They  were 
principally  the  work  of  Prince  Lq>pe  Bflckebufg, 
and  date  from  the  last  century.  The  city,  the 
key  of  the  Portuguese  frontier  00  the  left  side, 
is  almost  impregnable,  betag  defended  by  Fort 
Sta.  Lada,  a  quadras^gular  work  sooth  of  city ; 
Fort  Lippe,  which  contains  a  tank  capable  of 
hokling  a  depth  of  water  of  34  feet,  filled  by 
means  of  an  aqueduct  with  three  rows  of  arches. 
Elvas  has,  beiides,  a  Gothic  cathedral,  with  a 
grand  marble  safc<^agus,  and  a  reourkable 
painting  of  the  Assumption  by  L.  Grsmeira :  a 
theatre,  a  cannon-fbundry,  etc  Fine  views 
from  the  ramparts. 


Pttrttiitgn^  6500  iahabilaali,  biihop^s  aeea 
province  of  Alemlitia  The  Cathedral,  Oaaade 
Csmani, etc.,  are  not  intersating sights.  lathe 
vicinity  fine  marble  (luarries ;  the  Serra  of  that 
name  is  ssoo  ft  Shortly  after  leaving  Crato, 
formerly  the  principal  head^iuarters  of  the  Por* 
tugoese  knights  of  Malta,  the  Seda  is  crossed 
00  an  iron  bridge,  and  we  readiifJrmsilli;  This 
city  (pop.  5''oc^,  an  important  military  position, 
rises  on  the  plateau  of  a  hin  clothed  widi  olives. 
The  retreat  of  the  French  army  under  Marshal 
Junot  came  here  to  a  dose,  and  was  so  adaair- 
ably  carried  out  as  to  cause  Wapoleoo  toreward 
his  general  with  the  dukedom  of  Afarant^ 
The  church  of  San  Fcandaco  is  well  worth  see- 
ing.  Soose  trade  in  com,  brandies,  and  fruit 
The  soil  is  very  fertile,  and  the  aspect  of  the 
country  very  pleasant  We  are  now  in  Estre- 
madura.  Near  Barquinha,  two  lines  join ;  that 
of  Lisbon  to  Oporto,  and  of  Lisbon  to  Badi^iot. 

.StfMAwMi^  9oooinhabitants.  ttmt:  Hotel  da 
Fdida.  The  Roman  Scalabis,  or  Prassidiumju- 
lium:  <^M>- ftf  ■«  ndministr**'^**'  ■«*<»*no/i^i— g» 
Yrene,  about  whom  there  is  a  local  legend.  The 
dty  stands  00  a  knoU,  north  of  the  Tagus,  and 
is  defended  byan  old  castle  Thetownisi0lNi3t; 
the  streets  narrow  and  winding.  It  was  the 
residence  of  the  kings  of  Portugal  from  Anooso 
III.  (1S54)  to  the  rdgn  of  Joio  L  Its  churches 
are  inten^ting,  but  eUher  modernised  or  de- 
fiiced;  such  as  S.  Joio  de  AlporAo,.now  a 
theatre,  but  with  good  romanesque  remains  and 
a  fine  tower,  and  W.  Marigold:  Churdi  of 
Gra^  with  a  very  fine  tomb  of  its  founder, 
CbuutofOurem.  Here  was  buried  P.  A.  Ca- 
bral,  the  discoverer  of  BnuiL  The  moeaks  of 
the  Church  of  the  Jesuits;  the  13th  century  Sta. 
Maria  deMarviOa:  the  Church  of  St.  Francis: 
a  convent  of  sanM  period,  with  a  fine  crucifiai  00 
left  of  the  principal  doorway.  Remains  of 
ancient  walls :  ruins  of  castle  where  the  Cardinal 
King  Don  Henrique  was  bom  and  rnsitiiwl  his 
crown,  and  was  buried. 

VUl^framcm^  said  lo  have  been   built  by 
French  crusaders  after  the  capture  of 
from  the  Moors :  pop.  470a    The  line 
salt  nmrshes,  pasture  land,  then  fiuther  001 
olives,  and  orchards,  and  Lisbon  u  reached. 

For  omnibuses,  etc,  see  Directory. 

U8B0N. 

Hotels.— 1.  The  Hotel  Braganxa.  A 
large  red  building,  very  oonspicuously 
situated  on  a  hill  in  the  osntre  of  the  dty, 
and  with  a  splendid  view  of  the  Tagus  aikd 
of  the  anchorage.  It  is  the  most  aristo- 
cratio  of  the  hotels  here,  but  someiriiat 
dear,  and  the  attendance  not  the  besk    A 


038 


UBBON. 


long  front  to  the  8.  shalterad  from  oold 
winds. 

2.  Hotel  Oentnl,  on  the  Ctee  (qnay) 
of  Sodre,  doee  to  the  riTer,  ia  more 
generally  preferred.  It  ia  ezceedinglj 
Urge,  end  very  conTenientl  j  litnited.  8. 
Durend'e  Hotel,  kept  by  en  BngUeh  lend- 
ledy,  in  the  Lugo  de  QaintUla,  ii  com- 
fortable^ Tery  reepeoteble,  end  oniet  Hm 
prices  ere  generally  1800  reis  (ebout  Ss.) 
e-dey,  for  eech  person  occnpying  e  bed- 
room only,  and  dining  at  table  d'hdte. 
Senrice  is  6d.  a^y.  AtDnrand'saseoond 
floor,  large  bed-room  and  sitting-room, 
£1  arday  for  two  persons.  Wine  and  ale 
are  not  indnded.  There  are,  besidee, 
cheaper  hotels  in  the  Ghiada  At  Mrs. 
Lawrence's  Boarding-Honse  (Boa  Saora- 
»mento  da  Lapa),  Bnenoe  Ayies,  good  de- 
cent rooms  may  be  obtained. 

Boetanrants,  called  '  Gases  de  Pasto.' 
Few,  and  not  good.  Hie  best  is  MaUa\ 
Rna  do  Ouro,  with  Tiews  on  the  bay  and 
Qoay  de  Sodre.  Dinners  i  la  carte,  480 
reis.  /sufro's,  in  Boa  do  Ferregial  de 
Baixo  No.  16,  i  la  cart^  8«0  to  400  reis. 

Oafte. — ^The  largest  end  best  is  Loja 
de  Neve  (literally  Ice-Shop),  in  Laigo  de 
Camroens,  neer  Theatre  de  D.  Maria. 
Cair<&  Hespanhol  and  Freitas  in  the 
Bodo^  end  Marrare's  in  the  Chiado^  which 
hare  seperate  rooms  for  ladies. 

In  point  of  sitnatipn,  Lisbon  stands 
almost  unequalled  in  the  worid,  being 
comperable  only,  in  this  rsspect,  to 
Ooostantinople,  N^>les,  end,  we  may 
add,  Stockholm.  The  trayeller,  es  he 
softly  glides  elong  the  'anriferi  ripe  beeta 
Tagi,'  beholds  at  once  the  dty  rising  glori- 
ously from  the  Tery  benks  of  the  broe^, 
glittering  Tigus,  on  a  succession  of  bills, 
the  highest  of  which  is  that  of  Buenoe 
Ayree,  with  Centra's  picturesque  range 
on  the  left,  and  the  ooest  studded  with 
cheerfU  Tillas  nestling  emid  orange  groTee. 
Uor  many  conyente,  pelaces,  end  public 
buildings  sre  ndther  lost  or  confnsedly 
grouped  in  the  dense  mess  of  the  houses, 
or  masked  by  dipe  or  wells,  but  stand 
out  boldly  isolated,  end  in  the  AiU  view 
of  indiTidual  character.  The  houses  corer 
en  area  of  some  4  miles  B.  to  W.  On 
the  N.  and  firom  its  icy  blasts  the  dty  ii 
ehdtered  by  a  range  of  high  hills,  which 


extend  from  the  sea  coast  to  Alhaadia  on 
the  Tagus.  The  entrance  or  mouth  of  the 
riTer  is  defended  by  sereral  forts  vA 
batteriee.  The  harbour  is  excellent,  and 
can  shdter  10,000  ships  et  a  time.  The 
quays  'caes'  are  broed,  and  built  on 
a  Urge  scale,  end  the  Uigest  menK>f-war 
anchor  doee  to  the  dty.  But  except  for 
the  edyantages  of  its  wonderful  dtuatioo, 
Lisbon  is  far  from  being  a  handsome  or 
an  interesting  dty.  It  U  defident  in 
thoee  olyects  which  form  the  usuel  attrac- 
tions of  Spanish  or  Italian  dtiee ;  for  the 
buildings,  though  in  meny  casee  hand- 
some, are  moeUy  modem,  of  uniform 
style  and  unartistio  appeerance.  lliere 
U  a  complete  lack  of  picture-galleries, 
fine  old  diurchee,  omementid  squares,  of 
gardens  or  drives. 

General  Desoription. — lisbon  is 
divided  into  six  'bahrroe,'  or  district!— 
vii.,  AlUma,  Bairro  Alto,  Mouraria,  Santa 
Catherine,  Bodo^  and  Belem.  It  contains 
366  streets,  12  squares,  6  theetres,  96 
public  fountains  (chafariaas),  200  churches. 
The  oldest  portion  of  the  d^  liee  between 
the  cestU  and  the  river,  constituting  the 
district  of  Alfama.  The  streets  are  more 
like  lanes,  and  have  retained  the  charac- 
teristics of  the  Moorish  and  Pntoguese 
medisBval  ages,  being  narrow,  willing, 
steep^  irregular,  and  we  must  add,  veiy 
dirty  and  ill-paved.  The  more  modem 
portion,  dtuatod  west  of  the  former,  and 
on  lower  ground,  was  rebuilt  after  the 
great  earthquake  of  1766.  The  streetehere 
are  well  paved,  deen,  end  with  handaoroe 
houses.  Still  f^irther  west  is,  however, 
the  most  fashionable  and  most  firequented 
section,  the  reddence  of  the  English, 
foreign  diplomatists,  eta — via. ,  thedistrict 
of  Buenoe  Ayres.  The  practice  with  Por- 
tuguese of  saving  nicknamee,  not  only  to 
pereons  but  to  stieets,  mekee  it  somewhat 
difficult  for  a  strenger  to  find  hk  way  by 
reading  the  names  marked  et  the  comen. 
Thus,  few  can  point  out  the  offldaDy  deno- 
minated Bua  BdU  da  Bainha,  but  every 
one  Imows  its  more  familiar  appelUtion, 
BuadaPrata.  Thesame  happens  with  Boa 
Nova  da  Princesa,  better  kniown  as  Bua  dos 
Fanqudroe;  etc.  The  most  important 
ftreetsere:  Bua  da  Prata(of  silver);  B. do 
Ouro(ofgold);  B.doChiado;R  Augusta^ 


LISBON. 


539 


etc    Hie  principal  iqiiares  are :  Pm^a  do 
Cammereio,  better  known  to  English  resi- 
dents as  Black  HoraeSqaere.  It  18686  feet 
B.  to  W.,  by  6896  N.  to  a;  and  is  aitnated 
in  tiie  lower  and  more   busy  district, 
which  was  rebniU  after  the  earthquake, 
by  order  of  the  Harqnis  of  Pombai    It 
is  better  known  as  Terreiro  do  Pofou    It 
is  washed  on  its  south  side  by  the  Tagns, 
tnm  which  it  isseparated  by  a  broad  quay; 
and  on  its  three  other  sides  fonned  by 
handsome  bnlldings— tIs.  the  Stock  Ex- 
change (Boloa),  a  large  classical  ediiloe^ 
erected  1776  ;  the  Ooirtom-honse, '  Alfan- 
dega,'  the  India  House,  the  magnificent 
naral  arsenal,  the  public  offices,  oaotral 
Telegraph  Office,  and  Town  HalL    On 
the  north  side^  leading  to  Una  Augusta, 
stands  a  fine  triumphal  arch;  in  the 
centre  is  the  fine  bronse  statue  of  King 
Jos6  I.,  erected  by  the  lisbonenses  to  the 
'  rei  sabio,'  who  ordersd  the  rebuilding  of 
their  dty.     Profa  do  Itoeio,  oflkdally, 
Frofa  de  D.  Pedro,    A  fine  broad  quad- 
rangle, curiously  paved   with  coloured 
stones.      Here  stands  the   Theatre  de 
Donna  Maria,  on  the  site  of  the  Inquisi- 
tion.   The  Church  of  Carmo  is  seen  fh>m 
tills  square,  rising  on  a  hilL    The  streets 
are  safe  by  night,  as  well  as  by  day;  the 
inhabitants  obliging,  and  willing  to  come 
in  aid  to  the  rambling  stranger;    but 
walldng,  and  driilng  even,  are  far  from 
pleasant,  on  account  of  the  great  dilTer- 
enoes  of  lerel,  the  extent,  and  the  intri- 
cacy and  difficult  nomenclature  of  the 
streets.   The  principal  maiket-plaoee  are : 
Prafa  da  Figueira,  near  the  Rodo,  at  the 
top  of  Bua  da  ^ta,  where  firuit,  Tege- 
tables,  poultry,  eggs,  milk,  and  flowers 
aresold;  RibeiraNoTa,orfish-fflariEet;etc 
The  principal  fountains  are— A  Samari- 
tana,  Belem,  etc— of  no  interest     8000 
'  Gallegos,'  or  OaUdan^paniards,  are  em- 
ployed in  carrying  the  water  from  theee 
chaefarines  to  the  houses.    Theee  honest, 
hard-working  fellows  are  the  best  snd 
most  numerous  dass  of  serrants  both  in 
Portugal  and  Spain. 

Histoxyw— Lisbon  is  said  to  be  derived 
tnm  Olyssipo,  Ulyssipus,  corruptions  of 
Ulysses,  who  is  daimed  hy  natire  writers 
as  the  founder ;  others  say,  from  a  PImb- 
nidan  word,  *alis  ublxv  meaning   *a 


delidous  bay.'    Howbeit  Usbon  and  its 
district  were  of  no  importance  under  the 
Bomans,  when  it  was  called,  in  honour  of 
J.  Obsar,  Fdidtas  Julia.    During  their 
rule,  MMda  (BmeriU)  was  the  capital  of 
Ludtania,  and  the  Suerian  kings  held 
thdr  court  at  Porto.    It  fell  into  the 
hands  of  the  Moon  soon  after  the  battie 
of  Guadalete,  ftom  whom  it  was  finally 
taken,  in  1147,  by  its  first  king,  Alfonso 
Henriqnes,  after  a  protracted  nege.    In 
the  rdgn  of  Jdk>  L,  it  became  the  capital 
of  the  kingdom,  and  was  raised,  1894,  to 
the  rank  ii  an  archbishopric     There  is 
Uttle  doubt,  we  beUeire^  that  had  Philip 
of  Spain  raised  this  sea-capital  to  be  the 
metropolis  of  his  monarchy,  the  secesdon 
would  not  hare  taken  place ;  and  what 
with  Barcdona  and  OadJs  as  emporiums 
of  trade  with  the  east,  and  the  situation 
of  Lisbon  with  respect  to  the  trade  with 
America,  it  is  difficult  to  say  to  what 
extent  tiie  prosperity  of  the  Peninsula 
would  hare  been  oanled.    At  tiie  very 
time  lisbon  had  reached  the  acme  of  its 
splendour  and  commercial  importance, 
the  great  earthquake — more  important 
than  those  which  preceded  it,  and,  let  us 
hope,  the  last  of  tiioee  with  which  geolo- 
gists stUl  threaten  the  dty— todc  idace, 
1776,  causing  the  deatii  of  SaOOO  inhabit- 
ants, and  the  destruction  of  property  to 
the  amount  of  twenty  millions  sterlLng ; 
shattering  to  pieces  splendid  edifices  and 
untold  treasures  of  arl    From  so  terrible 
and  sweeping  a  calamity,  lisbon  has  not 
as  yet  completely  recoTued. 

Olimato* — ^The  climate  is  Tery  tem- 
perate^ but  Tariable,  and  not  suited  to 
invalids ;  but  it  is  beneficial  to  oonyales- 
cents,  and  most  weak  constitutions.  The 
mean  annual  temperature  is  81* ;  winter, 
62* ;  spring,  80)  ;  summer,  70)  * ;  and 
autumn,  60)*.  The  mean  annnal  range 
is  80*,  the  mean  extremes  being  84* 
and  04*;  and  the  mean  daily  range, 
during  the  twenty-four  hours,  16*.  It  is 
dry  Mid  bracing;  The  prevalent  wind 
during  nine  months  comes  from  the  N.; 
during  the  three  remaining  months^  the 
S.W.  is  the  most  frequent  The  middle 
of  summer  is  a  trying  season,  on  account 
of  the  extreme  differences  of  temperature 
betwMn  day  and  night,   duing  that 


540 


LISBON. 


Mtson.  Frost  tnd  raow  art  yerynn; 
high  winds  not  nnoommon ;  hat  winter 
usually  mild  and  agroeable.  The  mor> 
tality  is  reckoned  at  6766  for  the  mean 
snnnal  range.  NoTember  and  December 
are  yeiy  nSaj,  The  spring  begins  at  a 
▼ery  etfly  season,  and  is  beantiftaL 

Sights.— Palaces:  das  Necesidades, 
Ajuda;  Ohurehes:Oathedral,San Vicente, 
etc  Graca,  etc. ;  Aqueduct  of  Aguas  Lines. 

The  Falaoe  das  NeoapidAdea,  the 
residence  of  the  kings  of  Portugal,  stands 
on  a  hni,  and  commands  a  fine  and  ex- 
tensiTe  view.  It  was  built  near  the  site 
of  a  hermitage,  under  the  inrocation  of 
Our  Lady  '  of  Wants,'  which  was  rebuilt 
into  a  royal  chapel.  It  is  itself  of  no 
architectural  merit,  but  contains  a  fine 
collection  of  works  of  art  and  vertu,  got 
together  by  K.  Dom  Fernando,  besides  a 
libruy  fiill  of  precious  M8S.  The  gar- 
dens are  fiill  of  aviaries,  exotics,  and 
fountains,  llie  present  king,  howcTer, 
ordinarily  inhabits  the  Pahee  da  Ajuda, 
a  Tery  large  but  unfinished  building, 
erected  by  King  JoKo  YI.  The  state 
apartments  are  spacious,  and  contain 
some  pictures  by  Portuguese  artists,  and 
allegorical  statues  of  no  merit  The 
soTereign,  on  great  occasions  or  'gala- 
days,'  holds  lerees,  or  Beija-ma&i,  Utenlly, 
*  Hand-kisiing.'  The  Palace  de  Belem, 
built  by  Jotto  V.,  contains  a  fine  suite  of 
apartments.  On  the  north  of  it  is  the 
Quints  de  Oima,  another  royal  residence ; 
and  on  the  south,  the  Laigo  of  D.  Fer- 
nando, and  the  broad  quay  of  Belem. 
Palac$  pf  Bmnpotta,  a  large  white-wanhed 
building,  faced  with  stone,  on  north  side 
of  Lisbon,  built  by  Catherine  of  Portugal, 
widow  of  Charles  II.  of  England,  towards 
the  end  of  17th  century.  Uninteresting, 
and  now  turned  into  a  military  college^ 

e|c  CttKlrsl.  caUed  U  8^  (Sedee,  See), 
rises  on  high  ground,  below  the  Cantle  of 
St  George,  and  not  far  fh>m  it  It  was 
built  on  the  site^  and  probably  with  the 
ruins,  of  amosque,by  AiTonso  Henriques,  In 
1147 ;  was  conidderably ii^ured  by  Mrrtnl 
earthquakes,  partly  rebuilt  and  modern- 
ised sfler  that  of  1766.  Of  the  Gothic 
period  it  has  retained  the  principal  front, 
the  choir,  and  apsklal  chapels.  It  it  a 
plain  building  on  the  whok^  with   a 


^oomy  interior,  gingerbiead  rococo  gild- 
ing here  and  there,  «Dd  some  fine  railings. 
It  contains  a  maniMlenm  of  Alfonso  IV., 
who  restored  it  1844 ;  the  relics  of  San 
Vicente^  patron  saint  of  Lisbon;  and  a 
miraculous  image.  Around  the  building 
may  be  seen  Testiges  of  the  great  earth- 
quake. 

Church  San  V%cmU$  ds  ^Vm,  so  csUed 
because  it  was  built  'outside'  the  city 
walls  by  Alfonso  Henriques;  but  was 
knocked  down,  and  the  present  church 
erected,  by  Philip  U.,  1682.  The  west 
fh>nt  is  100  feet  in  brasdth,  and  147  to 
the  summit  of  the  tower.  It  is  one  of 
the  finest  churches  here^  end  was  the 
burial-place  of  the  kings  of  the  house  of 
Braganxa. 

Chmreh  NottaScmhora  da  (Trafo. — ^A 
cruciform  couTentual  churoh,  without 
arches;  dates  1666,  and  contains  the  cele- 
brated image  of  that  Viigin,  rery  gandily 
dressed,  holding  a  sword,  snd  surrounded 
by  numberless  ez-Totos.  The  domic  ba- 
silica of  JSflrvtta,  or  Corsfao  de  Jesus,  is 
a  reduced  copy  of  St  Poter'a  of  Rome, 
erected  1770  by  Queen  D.  Maria  L  It 
it  said  to  hare  cost  16  million  crusadoa, 
It  is  OTeromsmented,  but  the  marbles  srs 
Tery  fine  and  raried,  and  the  view  fttim 
the  dome  one  of  the  grandest  in  Lisbon. 
ScM  Rogme  contains  a  fine  chapel,  built  in 
Rome  by  order  of  Joas  V.,  padied  up  and 
sent  here,  where  it  was  erected  anew.  It 
it  said  to  hare  cost  14  millions  of  cru- 
sadoa. Mid  \m  most  remarkable  for  the 
display  of  its  magnificent  Roman  mosaica, 
with  subjects  of  paintings  by  Raphael,  M. 
Angelo,  8.  RenL  The  msrt>les  are  also 
▼ery  beautifril ;  the  pilasten  are  fonned 
of  porphyry,  lapis-Uxuli,  Terd-anttque, 
and  other  precious  marbles.  We  may 
also  menti<m  Teiy  briefly,  Lonito,  the 
most  fashionable  church  in  Lisbon  ;  the 
ruinous  but  interesting  Carmo^  built  1389, 
160  ft  long,  whose  fine  tower,  and  the 
remains  of  its  W.  fhmt  snd  walls,  should 
be  noticed  ;  No,  So,  das  Mcrccs,  whose 
choir  contains  the  finest  picture  of  Gran 
Vasco.  There  is  also  an  English  nun- 
nery, the  Brigittine  Oonrent  The  nuns 
are  successors  of  those  who  were  expelled 
fttim  Sion  House,  the  seat  of  the  Dukes 
of  Northumberland,  at  the  suppfsssieocf 


LISBON. 


541 


ooiiTeDta;  there  is  alao  an  En^li  ooUego 
for  the  educatioii  of  Boman  Ottholioi  in- 
tended  for  the  priesthood.  The  cemeteries 
are  deroidof  any  peenlkrity,  sare  thename 
of  the  largest,  which  is 'Os  Praieres '  (plea- 
sure-land) ;  but  was  so  called  from  heiiig 
the  site  of  the  groimds  and  conTsnt  under 
the  ioTocation  of  O.  L.  'doe  Fraseres.' 

The  MotUko  de  Belem,  or  Jerotifuum 
(the  name  by  which  it  is  better  known), 
is  situated  outside  the  dty.  This  very 
fine 'church  was  built  by  King  Mano^ 
(1600),  on  the  site  where  Vasoo  deGama 
embarked,  July  8,  1407,  on  his  great 
journey  of  discorery,  and  on  the  site  also 
of  a  small  heremitical  chapel,  where  that 
groat  disoorerer  and  his  oompanions  passed 
ihe  night  previous  to  their  departure.  It 
ifl  Gothic  in  its  style,  yery  richly  deco- 
rated, constructed  on  piles  of  pine-wood, 
and  tiie  stone  warm  and  richly  tinted. 
Though  commenced  in  1500,  a  period  of 
Gothic  decline.  It  was  not  concluded  tiO 
long  after  th«i  Oinquecento  had  intro- 
duced its  worst  and  latter  features.  The 
8.  portal  is  most  elaborately  decorated 
wiUi  an  exuberance  of  statue,  niche-work, 
and  pinnacles.  In  the  apez  is  the  statue 
of  our  Lady  of  Kingi,  and  abore  the  cen- 
tral shaft,  dividing  the  double  doorway, 
stands  the  efllgy  of  Prince  Don  Henrique, 
the  great  promoter  of  discoTeries,  and  one 
of  the  most  enlightened  princes  that  erer 
lired.  Hie  nare  and  transept  are  of  the 
latest  Flamboyant;  but,  though  generally 
eflTectiTe,  its  detaOs  will  faU  to  satisfy  the 
real  artist.  There  are,  doubtless,  some 
exquisite  bits  of  architectural  earring; 
but  they  are  lost,  and  buried,  so  to  say, 
amid  that  proAision  of  gorgeous  detailing 
and  decoratire 'modistry.'  ObserTe,how* 
ever,  the  eastern  arches  of  the  gallery, 
supporting  the  upper  portion  of  the  choir, 
which  latter  is  classical ;  the  singular  plan 
of  the  transepts ;  the  tombs  of  D.  Manoel 
the  fortunate,  and  his  queen  Donna 
Maria,  on  the  north  side ;  and  on  the  south 
those  of  Jotto  IIL  and  his  queen  Ca- 
therine. The  cloisters  are  among  the 
finest  in  Portugal,  richly  decorated  and 
striking.  They  belong  to  the  lateGothic 
style.  Great  similsrity  has  been  found, 
both  of  design  and  detail,  between  this 
church  and  ti^  Scotch  chqwl  <^  Roslyn. 


'lliere  is  no  doubt,'  says  Feignsson,  'of 
their  common  origin.* 

Aqueduot  of  Agnaa  IdTreSi— A 
msgniftcent  Roman-built  work,  erected 
1729,  by  King  Joiio  V.,  to  supply  Lisbon 
with  water.  Hie  worics  were  conducted 
under  the  direction  of  Manoel  Maio^  and 
were  finished  in  twenty  years.  The  water 
is  conreyed  from  a  spot  three  leagues 
N.  W.  from  Lisbon,  to  a  nserroir  in  the 
dty,  near  Praca  do  Bato.  A  large  square 
tower  fiontsins  a  hall,  with  .an  enormous 
tank  in  the  centre^  The  view  fit>in  the 
top  of  it  is  Tcry  extensiTC.  Descend  to 
the  aqueduct,  which  is  8  feet  high,  6  feet 
broad,  and  consists  of  127  stone  arches, 
the  Ughest  of  which  is  268  feet 

These,  with  the  handsome  Cortes,  Mint 
(Casa  de  Moeda),  on  the  banks  of  the 
Ttegus;  the  twihstoreyed  huge  Custom- 
House,  A{/imtUffa  Cfrimde;  tiie  Arsenal 
do  Exerdto,  or  Fundi9lo,  ccmtaining  the 
cannott^oundiy  and  a  fine  collection  of 
weapons  and  engines;  and  the  well- 
organised  Anmal  de  Marmha,  constitute 
the  most  noteworthy  public  buildings  in 
Lisbon.  There  are,  besides,  scTcral  well- 
managed  hospitals  {S,  Joti^  BilheCsUes, 
Cava  Pia,  a  Casa  de  Misericordia),  and 
the  llke^  which  do  not  interest  the  general 
tourist  Artists  and  literati  are  not  ta 
expect  much  from  either  the  Academia 
ds  BMoM  ArUi,  which  contains,  besides  a 
good  school  of  design,  eta,  some  pictures 
of  Portuguese  srtists,  and  a  library— «pen 
daOy,  fhmi  9  to  8 ;  Muteo  Rial,  with 
a  tolerably  good  collection  of  Portuguese 
paintings  aiMl  historical  portraits,  and  in 
the  ground-floor  a  ooUeotion  of  stuffed 
MiiimliM,  minerals,  and  Chinese  and  Indian 
curiosities;  or  th^  BMMMtea  PubVok-- 
open  daily,  '9  to  8,  tn&  admittance; 
BMiotkeea  daAcademia,  80,000  Tolumes 
— tnb  admittance;  and  the  ArchiTo  do 
Torre  do  Tombo^  which  contains,  howerer, 
some  raluaUe  documents^  to  examine 
which  a  special  order  is  required.  Botan- 
ists will  do  weU  to  Tisit  the  Jardim 
Botanico,  adjoining  Hospital  de  8.  Josft, 
which  is/ open  didly  to  the  public;  as 
well  ss  that  of  Palace  de  Ajuda,  open  to 
puUic  on  Thursdays.  Tlie  most  fh>- 
quented  prommade  is  PuMttio  PwbUeOf 
near  the  Bodo;  and  the  Ywy  wall  laU 


5i2 


LISBON — BNVIRONa 


out  and  pleasant  Pastiio  da  Siirdla^ 
near  the  SngUah  buiial-gronnd,  where  a 
hand-of  mnd^  often  plays  in  the  evening. 
Publlo  Amuaementa.— There  are  six 
theatres — Stm  Carlat,  Italian  Opera, 
open  only  during  winter:  performanoos 
on  Sondays,  Wednesdays,  and  Fridays— 
120  boxes  (called  camarotes),  in  llTe  tiers 
(orders).  Thwin  ds  Dana  Maria,  in 
the  north  end  of  the  Bodo ;  a  yery  pretty 
mUa:  Fbrtngnese  dramas  and  operas. 
Oywmaiio:  small,  much  frequented;  vau- 
de?illes  and  farces — the  best  actors  in 
Lisbon.  During  the  summer  there  are 
several  open-air  entertainments.  There 
are^  besides,  a  middling  bull-ring^  where 
bnll-flghts  take  plaoe^  very  inferior  to 
those  in  Spain;  horse  circuses,  eta 

iSNVlKONa 

Hie  environs  of  lisbon  abound  in 
besutifU  scenery.  The  country  is  fer- 
tile, well  watered  and  carefully  culti- 
vated, planted  with  trees  of  every  variety, 
and  interspersed  with  pretty  villas  ('  quin> 
tas ')  surrounded  by  gardens  and  orcharda. 
Tourists  should  not  fkQ  to  visit  Clntra 
andMaf^  the  principal  excursions  around 
the  capital 

Ointra,  4600  inhabitants,  is  distant 
fourteen  miles  fh>m  Lisbon,  whence  it  is 
reached  by  small  omnibuses,  which  leave 
early  in  the  morning  and  return  the  same 
day  at  4  p.ic ;  but  it  will  be  found  more 
pleasant  either  to  ride  or  drive.  A  two- 
horse  carriage  coats  4500  reis  to  Ointra 
and  back.  Osrriages  of  Oia.  Lisbon- 
ense,  Largo  de  8.  Roqu»— to  ICafra  and 
back,  two  days,  for  two  persons,  12,000 
reis.  The  road  is  very  pretty.  On 
leaving  Lisbon,  through  the  suburb  of 
*Sete  Rioa,'  the  tourist  passes  by  several 
handsome  villas :  the  iint,  that  of  Laran- 
jeiras  (orange-grove),  is  the  property  of 
Oonde  do  Farrobo;  the  grounds  are  wdl 
laid  out,  and  ornamented  with  cascades, 
ponds,  fountains,  Idoska,  pavilions,  sta- 
tuary, etc — to  visit  which,  apply  at  the 
owner's  house^  in  Laigo  do  Barol  de 
Quintella.  Two  roads  branch  at  Sete 
Rios,  one  leadfaig  to  Oampolide  and  Bem- 
ilca,  and  the  other  to  Ointra,  Oolltfss,  and 
MaAra,  which  we  shall  follow.  The 
Palace  of  Ramalho^  comes  in  view.    It 


was  once  the  residence  and  the  plaee  ol 
confinement  of  the  Bmprese-queen,  Ou^ 
lotto  Joaquinha,  wife  of  Jotfo  VL,  who 
reftised  to  swear  to  the  constitution  of 
1822.  Two  or  three  small  hamlets  are 
croased,  a  few  uninteresting  villaa  are 
passed,  and  CSntra  comee  fsiriy  in  view. 
The  village  stands  near  the  month  of  the 
Tsgns,  on  the  edge  of  the  rocky  Sara  de 
Ointra,  whose  altitude  variee  between 
1800  and  8000  feet  There  are  two  or 
three  good  hotels :  the  best  are  Victoi'a 
and  Mrs.  Lawrence's,  both  kept  by  dvil 
and  oUiainff  Bnsiiah-boni  Isndfadins 
There  are  also  several  good  lodging-honaea. 
Ointra  is  the  summer  resideiice  of  the 
upper  cissies  of  Lisbon,  and  a  great 
favourite  with  English  residentB^  who 
have  bunt  several  of  the  prettiest  villaa. 
It  is  very  gay  and  pleasant  during  the 
season;  sprfaig  being  the  best  time ^  the 
year  to  make  an  excursion.  The  ehiel 
objects  of  interest  are  the  Palace^  the 
Penha  Oonvent,  Moorish  Oastle,  etc ;  but 
the  scenery  itsdf  is  the  principal  attrao- 
tion.     Lord  Byron  exclaims : 

Lol  Ciatn't  gioriout  Edea  intenrowa. 
In  Turiegmt«d  nan  of  mount  and  glen : 
Ah,  me  I  what  hand  can  pencfl  gnida,  or  pio. 
To  fi>llow  half  oo  which  the  eyt  dilatwl 

Southey  declares  it  to  be  *  the  most  blessed 
spot  in  the  habitoble  world!'  The  moun- 
tains, the  ancients'  Montee  Lun«,  lie  N.  B. 
and  S.E.,  terminating  in  the  Oape  de 
Rocca.  On  the  south  side  their  aspect  is 
not  pleasfaig;  and  the  country  itaelf;  barei 
parohed-up,  and  arid,  affords  a  wild,  dreary 
prospect,  very  forcibly  contrasting  with 
that  on  the  north  side. 

The  Falaoe,  to  see  which  permission 
should  be  obtained  fhmi  the  superintend- 
ent, Almocharife,  is  a  medley  of  Moorish 
and  Ohristian  anshitecture,  having  once 
been  the  Alhambra  of  the  Moorish  kings 
of  Lisbon,  and  subsequently  eontinued  to 
be  the  favoivite  summer  reeort  of  ita 
Ohristian  monarchs.  It  was,  however, 
mostly  rebuilt  by  King  JoiKo  I.,  and  com- 
pleted by  Don  Manod.  Don  Sebastian 
lived  hen,  and  left  it  to  go  to  Africa ;  and 
Don  AiTonso  VL  was  ooitaAjirilhln  a 


LISBON — BNVIRONa 


543 


•rabatqne  tnoery-work,  mingle  not  in- 
luffmonionalj  wHh  f eatiires  common  to  an 
architeetnre  to  different  as  a  wholes  yet 
similar  in  many  details.  Among  other 
halis,  the  Sala  das  Pogas,  the  magpie's 
saloon,  is  remarkaUe,  and  so  called  from 
being  painted  all  orer  with  magpies  hold- 
ing each  a  white  rose^  the  emblem  of 
innocence;  and  in  their  beak  a  legend, 
with  the  woids  'Por  Bem,'  'All  Fair,' 
'  Ponr  le  bon  motif,'  being  aUnsiTe  to  the 
reply  which  Kins  JoKo  L  gare  to  his 
qneen,  the  Bngliu  Princess  Philippe  of 
Lancaster,  on  being  discoTcred  in  the  act 
of  kissing  one  of  her  maids  of  honour ; 
npon  which,  moreorer,  that  re  galantoomo 
ordered  the  present  painting,  by  way  of 
ont-satarislng  satire.  Another  haU, '  Sala 
doe  Oerros,'  is  abo  interesting^  fh>m  the 
arms  of  serenty-fonr  of  the  Portognese 
nobility  being  painted  on  the  dronlar 
roof^  each  dependent  from  a  stag's  (cer?o) 
head,  those  of  the  hons^  of  TsTora  and 
ATeiro  being  erased,  for  tiie  part  they  took 
in  the  attempt  against  the  life  of  King 
Joe6  L  There  is  also  a  line  marble 
chimney,  scnlptoied  by  Michael  Angelo^ 
and  the  gift  of  Pope  Leo  X.  to  King 
Manoel. 

Fena  Falaoe. — ^Donkeys  and  a  gnide 
(400  reis)  are  hired  to  ascoid  the  granite 
hill,  on  the  snmmit  of  which  rises  this,  a 
former  hieronymite  conTent,  repaired  and 
enlarged  by  King  D.  Fernando^  at  the 
suppression  of  conTents.  Its  appearance 
is  that  of  a  Gothic  castle,  though  retaining 
partly  the  character  of  its  former  monastic 
distinction.  In  the  chapel  may  be  seen 
a  fine  transparent  marble  ratable^  with 
wen-carred  scenes  from  the  New  Testa- 
ment by  an  Italian  artist  The  grounds 
and  gaMens  an  yery  charming,  and  the 
▼iew  fhym  the  highest  point  striking  and 
almost  boundless. 

Mocriah  Oastle. — Proceed  next  to 
the  summit  west  of  latter,  which  com- 
mands Ointra  and  its  Tidni^.  Half-way 
are  some  Moorish  ruins,  with  a  bath  50 
feet  long,  17  feet  broad,  and  Taulted. 
The  grounds  an  eztensiTC,  and  tastefrilly 
improred.  The  Cork  OonveiU  was  found- 
ed by  D.  JoKo  de  Castro.  It  oonsista  of 
twenty  cells  buUt  in  the  rock,  and  lined 
with  cork  to  keep  out  the  damp.    It  is 


desert  now  of  ita  good  Frandsean  monka 
of  yore.  'The  recess  is  shown  which  was 
inhabited  by  the  celebrated  hermit  Hono- 
rius,  about  1608,  at  the  age  of  ninety-ilTe^ 
who  retired  hera  at  the  age  of  sizty-lhr% 
toezpiate  a  temptation  which  he  Avoided. 
Mere,  therefore, 

'  HoBociot  loQff  did  dwell, 
la  hopes  to  Berit  heeyen  br  maldag  earth  a 
hdL* 

Fenhlk  Verde^ — ^TUs  beantifU  quinta 
was  once  the  reaidence  of  D.  JoiKo  de 
Castro,  the  celebrated  Portuguese  n»Tig»> 
tor,  and  Viceroy  of  Indiea.  It  is  now  the 
property  of  C6nde  de  Penameor. '  The 
grounds  ara  everything  that  dimate^  care^ 
and  taste  can  make  them.  The  chapel, 
buUt  1643  by  thai  great  Portuguese 
hero  on  his  return  from  the  Indies,  con- 
tains his  heart,  so  true^  so  honesty  and  so 
bold.  Among  other  villas  we  may  men- 
tion, mora  especially,  the  beautiftdpalaoe> 
like  mansion  and  gaidena  belonging  to 
Mr.  Cook.  Tickets  for  admission  are  to 
be  procured  in  Usbon,  of  Mr.  Payant,  in 
front  of  Marq.  of  Louie's  '  Seti&es,'  idiera 
the  Duke  cf  Wellington  and  Manhal 
Junot  signed  the  convention  of  1808, 
which  saved  Portugal  from  n  Wench 
invasion,  and  is  the  fsshicnable  evening 
jffomenade. 

An  excursion  may  be  made  to  the  Bock 
of  Lisbon;  also  to  the  beautiful  valley  of 
Vanee  and  the  town  and  wino^rowing 
district  of  Collaies^  1  league  fhmi  Chitra, 
on  the  elopes  of  whose  hiUs  it  is  situated; 
and  to  the  lake  or  '  Tanque'  of  Vanee ; 
to  the  chestnut  forest  of  Mate.  The  best 
way  to  make  these  excursions  is  on  don- 
keys. 2  testo^  or  lid.,  are  charged  for 
a  donkoy,  for  the  tHide  afternoon,  and  4 
tested  for  the  donkey-boy;  but  at  the 
hotel,  these  charges  are  dearer.  To  the 
Rodt  of  Lisbon  an  excursion  may  be  also 
made,  for  tiie  view  exclusively. 

Mnfrn^SO  miles  N.W.  of  Lisbon. 
8260  inhabitants,  /niu.— Hotel  ManoeL 
The  road  leading  to  it  from  Cintra  Is  not 
interesting.  The  huge  building — atonce 
n  palace,  a  convent,  and  a  barrack — was 
a  poor  imitation  of  the  Bsoorial,  built  by 
King  D.  Jo«o  v.,  after  the  designs  of  the 
German   (f)  arehitset   Ludovid*   in7» 


544 


LISBON — ENVmONa 


thirtMQ  ymn  being  emploTad  in  its  oon- 
■tniotlon,  wldch  ooet  npwardf  of  19 
mOlioni  of  crowns  (ootom).  The  ohnreh 
was  ooneecnted  in  1780.  The  building 
Amns  a  penllelognm,  770  fSeet  N.  to  8. 
The  qoeen's  apmrtmenta  are  on  the  8.; 
those  of  the  king  look  towards  the  N. 
In  the  centre  is  the  chnreh;  the  palace 
on  one  side,  and  the  conTsnt  on  the 
other.  The  palace  is  four  storey*  bigh, 
and  of  the  classical  order.  The  building 
is  said  to  contain  860  rooms,  5000  doors, 
and  0  conrii ;  and'the  roof  would  hold 
10,000  soldiers  at  a  Umei  The  interior 
is,  howerer,  as  great  a  failnre  as  oopies 
always  are.  The  library,  800  feet  in 
lengUi,  has  a  fine  marUe  paTement,  and 
book-cases  of  beaatiAil  wood:  80,000 
Tolomes.  Hm  belf^  and  clocks  are  one 
of  the  cariosities  in  the  palace— the 
qnantity  of  metal  need  for  bells,  etc, 
amoonting  to  14,600  arrobes  for  each 
tower,  'At  church  is  the  richest  and 
most  striking  portion  of  the  whole ;  and 
seldom,  if  erer,  has  a  grander  display  and 
greater  Tariety  of  predons  marbles  been 
seen.  The  magnifloenoe  of  paTcments^ 
domes,  walls,  etc.,  owing  to  this  material, 
baffles  all  description. 

In  the  Tapada  Real,  doee  by,  is  a 
model  farm,  established  by  the  late 
qoeen,  carried  on  with  English  imple- 
ments^ and  prosperous. 

From  Mafra,  through  Guadil  and 
Azueira,  military  tourists  may  reach 
Torres  Vedras,  a  town  of  8800  inhabit- 
ants, with  a  poor  inn.  It  is  ezdusiTdy 
interesting  on  account  of  the  celebrated 
lines  of  fortifications  which,  in  1810,  were 
established  by  the  Duke  of  Wellington. 
They  extended  .40  milee — tmm  Alhandra, 
on  the  Tigus,  to  the  mouth  of'  the  riyer 
Sizandra— and  consisted  of  180  forts, 
redoubts,  and  batteries.  They  aro  among 
the  finest  examples  of  military  engineer- 
ing ;  and  their  execution  and  design  wero 
more  creditable  than  the  gain  of  man  j  a 
battle^  often  the  result  ot  <*!*■'><»* 

We  must  also  mention,  around  Lisbon, 
the  Torre  de  Bdem,  distant  1  league  west 
fhNU  Torrdro  do  I^i^o.  It  was  pr(i;|eoted 
by  King  JdKo  11.,  and  erected  in  the 
rdgn  of  HanoeL  It  was  constructed  in 
the  Tery  bed  of  the  ri?er,  but  Is  now  con- 


nected with  the  shore  by  a  sandy  strip  of 
land,  formed  by  the  waters.  It  is  most 
picturesque,  and  deser?es  a  visit:  admis- 
sion eadly  procured.  It  is  of  no  military 
importance,  but  interesting  for  Its  situa- 
tion, architecture^  and  the  onuunentation 
on  its  walls;  the  device  more  usually 
occurring  bdng  carved  orossee  of  Christ, 
of  which  order  (established  by  Khig  Dinis, 
to  succeed  that  of  the  Templars)  the  king 
was  grand-master.  The  view  fh>m  the 
top  is  very  fine.  The  Sala  Rcgia  is  a 
laiige  room  with  an  elliptic  roof,  and 
remarkable  for  its  echo:  two  persons 
on  the  oppodte  sides  of  the  room  can 
hear  the  voices  of  each  other,  whilst  they 
are*  inandible  to  any  other  standing  be- 
tween them.  The  OaeOe  </  SL  George 
is  the  dtadd  of  Lisbon,  whidi  it  com- 
mands, fh>m  the  hei^t  on  which  it  is 
standing.  On  the  north  is  the  gate- 
way of  Memmonis,  named  after  the 
gdlant  soldier  of  that  name,  who  kvt 
his  life  in  endeavouring  'fMilitar  as 
hostes  de  Alfonso  Henriquee,  a  entrada 
de  Cidade.'  The  grounds  and  castle 
formed  part  of  the  former  Moorish  town. 
Within  are  banacks,  prisons,  battniea,. 
eta  We  may  also  mention  Qiuim,  a 
palace  built  by  Pedro  IXL,  of  no  interest 
The  bed  is  shown  on  which  that  Ung 
expired:  It  is  placed  in  the  room  de 
Don  Quixote,  so  called  firom  the  panels 
with  sceoee  from  that  popular  hero  s  Vdt, 
In  the  oratory  is  a  monolithic  pillar  found 
at  Herculaneum.  The  gardens,  «i— tgnH 
after  those  of  Marly,  near  Paris,  aro 
worth  vidting.  Bemilea  is  the  prottiest 
suburb  of  the  capital,  and  contains  up- 
wards of  8000  inhabitants.  It  is  charm- 
ingly situated,  and  contains  several  pretty 
villas  and  gaidens,  and  a  manufactory, 
once  a  fine  Dominican  convent,  the  red- 
dence  and  burid-place  of  King  Luis  de 
Sousa. 

Direotory.— JEMIM  XiyaliMm,  Rna  de 
9w  Frsndsoo  de  Borga ;  ComtukUe,  Bua 
da  Aleerim.  jS!pcMus4  Legaiien,  Rna  da 
Annundadda;  Cmsii{a<i^  RuadaBmenda. 
U,  S.  qf  Awmiea  Legatitm,  Rna  do 
Sacramento;  OanmUale,  Rua  do  Bra- 
gansa.  Chitreh  <(f  MngUmd  Smxim 
British  Chi^)laln,  Rev.  F.  R.  Brown 
A  Ptotestsnt  osmetsiy.    Andhirs.— M 


Krn  and  Oo.,TnTHMi  d>  Pedni  Nogiu ; 
K.  W.  WjmL  AiotMUtra.  — Tlnn 
BMlniid  B  rahai,  IS  Bo*  Uttjtm ; 
IntfUi  worki,  at  LawtM'i,  30  Btw  Nan 
do  Oumo;  n«oBh,  it  SUt*'*,  In  tba 
Rado.  SsO*  (BanliM).— Natnnl  mm 
biU^lMOifldil  In  tiMiuaatIa  aflMloas, 
AUa^ariiu,  In  lAigo  do  IHgO;  ootd, 
tepid,  ate.  Boa  Hon  ds  8.  DamingM^ 
Ho.  13.  Th«rs  h  aoma  ai«allant  aw> 
bathing  on  tlia  hfiu^  ootilds  tlia  ilnr, 
betwaan  Balcm  and  Pafo  d'Arooa.  na 
■and  !■  aa  aoft  ai  Taln^  and  batlian  can 
go  to  an;  dapUi.  LltUa  tanti  are  aet  np 
on  tlie  aandi  bj  hnndrada,  dortng  tba 
aeaaon ;  tba  oharga  ta  Sd.  for  tha  ma  of 
them,  and  tliat  of  the  mnnU*  plat- 
fonn  of  planka,  from  which  one  jnmpa 
Into  tba  mtv.  Ttttn  •!«  aha  good 
■audi  at  Oaacaaa,  etc,  bnt  aum  aipoaed 
to  tba  AtUotiB  Ulkm*. 

Aal  t(fia. — Latten  iMva  tat  north 
and  aait  erair  annlnft  Bad  airlTe  tTtrj 
moralnsat  Olm.  LattMtniiMtbepaated 
bafora  8  r.M.;  *i«  nodtad  till  E  p.m. 
One  BtBtDp,  SS  tell,  tnnki  a  letter  mdar 
I  of  an  muMa ;  two  atampa,  one  under  |, 
ate.  One  additional  atarap  (or  btbtt 
addltlooalt  ofBomnaa,  Newifiapan,  na- 
tin  or  foi^gn,  prepaid  for  Gr.  aUmp.  Let- 
ten  to  Euglaod  ihonld  ba  ant  vis  f^rmtet, 

Tdtgrapk  Oglet — Prafa  do  ODDuaardo. 

DeMrt, — Die.    Bain,   '. 


S: 


Tha  CBirlagaa  of  Oomi^ 
Largo  da  Elin  Boqna— an  benv :  eiuigai 
— bU  the  daf,  8600  nU  tat  torn  panuM, 
and  SOOO  for  two  pereoM ;  hBlf-B-dsr, 
half  tha  abara;  aadihoiiraflartiralTe  at 
night,  400  and  too  lata.  FUr  two  bona, 
1100  and  MWiaia.  ThejalaahaTeehaia- 
■•ban^  Mding  alna  pOMna,  and  h' 


aarrioaa  to  CSntra,  eta 

SmMvnvmt,  CMl— Olnb  Llabon- 
anae.  In  Laiga  do  Qumo;  admlttanee  co 
Inlrodnstlan  hj  a  number.  Oramlo 
Utaaila :  laine  eoodtUana.  Baadlng- 
Tooma  of  Aaao^lelo  Craiualrdal,  b  Bla<^ 
Hone  Square ;  raedve  BngUth  and  Fnnch 
papera.     The  oOdal  gaMtt*  1*  '  Dlario  do 

BoaU, — To  go  or  ooma  from  ataamera 
In  the  bay,  600  reb.  OommMaun, 
or  gallego^  are    paid    SOO    ida  lor  a 

HorBBB  mar  be  hired  for  rldea  naar 
Liaboo,  or  toura  in  the  DOnntrj,  at 
AlmgidaX  Boa  Aree  da  Bandain,  Mid  at 
rnita'a  in  Trarean  da  ngneira. 


m.  'NmCindoTi^ulatB  LU>iH,'w>d 
iwnaBiqr.     Br  Bnnlalo ;  Run  AnfuitB. 
I.  A  iDod  'Liibaa  Guide.'     By  L.  C  da 

4.  '  Diirrium  Te^atntsu,'  etc     Br  T.  da 
Siha:  iljs- 

5.  'Daci^dciRealUeMiredeBdH.-  Br 
Cutni«SsBH:  tl». 

&  ' Cintn Piebinaa.'    Liebgn;  iljl: 
The  biM  Bail  ■  ihal  pulilialKd  bjr  the  Socialr 
fK  iha  DUnisB  of  Uidol  Kwwkdce. 


546 


OODIBBA. — ROUTEa 


qom  ottotmry,  and  to  whom  ndi  advutafM 
•rt  Mooodary,  wiU,  of  ooone,  do  better  to  fol- 
low lOttto  A 

» 

i?Mi(<r  ^  .—TIm  fint  ttatioa  after  leaviiv  the 
jimctioo  m  that  of  TA§mmu;  4000  inhabitanti. 
/«iw.»Hoepedaria  do  Coitin,  ia  Roa  da 
Tim  town,  the  aodent  Concordia, 
the  lite  ot  N abantia,  ff"*|f  p*C" 
tumqiiely  on  the  NabaO.  It  m  one  of  the  few 
hMerntinff  towns  b  Portugal,  with  respect  to 
its  eoderidlofy.  Its  prin^ial  sights  are-^on 
die  hin  whidi  rises  west,  the  huge  Convent  of 
the  Order  of  Chriit,  the  Bridge,  Churches  of 
S«  John,  etc* 

TAt  Cmvmi.'^lt  is  the  most  rsmaifcable  one 
hi  the  kii^dom,  after  that  of  Bamlha,  and  was 
once  considered  .among  the  finest  m  Kurope* 
The  Templars,  n^  entered  Portugal  under 
die  reign  d  Count  Afimso  Henriquesb  settled 
sooM  tiflse  afterwards  at  Thonuur,  erected  a 
ftrtm^  5^f»iff^  wud  miKmfiilljf  repelled  the 
munerotts  army  ct  ICoors  wbidi  besieged  die 
dty  in  11901  At  the  supprrssion  of  that  order, 
Kteg  Dinis  inetitnted  that  of  Christ  (1319), 
whidi  succeeded  to  the  formei's  piopcity,  and 
whose  principal  ssat  was  finaUy  fixed  at  Coim- 
bra,  ia  1449.  Before  entering,  notice^  doee  to 
thewaUiy  the  renmins  of  Chapd  of  Sta.  Oate- 
rina;  and  also  a  finely  sculptured  tomb  and 
efligy  of  a  knight  The  Teaqilais'  Gsstle  lies 
a  fittle  to  S.  BL,  and  now  beloi^  to  Count 
Thonuur,  better  known  as  Costa  CabnJ.    The 

OOO^BOt  OOQStttS  Os   IU06  ^flOtSvCfS^      Allft  SQttC* 

duct,  doee  by,  was  commenced  by  Philip  II.: 
finished  by  PhtUp  III.,  in  1613.  Thechnrdiis 
entered  by  a  fine  S.  door,  decorated  with 
statues  of  St  Maiy,  and  saints ;  and  the  orna- 
mentation is  of  the  Godiic  dffBnt>  Tiry  ezu* 
frff^af  mmI  tasteless,  ^***g  scarcely  redeemed 
by  the  nordty  and  originality  of  the  plan.  The 
high-ekar  is  in  the  centre,  and  the  trascaro  pa- 
nellings are  richly  decorated.  '  Notice  the 
vaulting  with  arms  <^  Portugal,  Don  Manod's 
sphere,  cromti  of  Christ,  the  ridi  east  end,  the 
chancdHtfch,  and  wcst-oid  door.  The  dnque- 
cento  two-«toreyed  doister,  sondi  of  diurch, 
should  also  be  seen.  In  the  east  tower  hangs 
the  largest  bdl  m  the  kii^dom,  The  CJhtrcJk 
</'.?/ 3^ -Ai^^Me  has  a  fine  west  flambojrant 
door,  a  choir  with  asukdos,  with  painrings  by 
Gran  Vasoo^  and  a  tower  with  an 
spire. 

The  JMi^  is  Godttc,  and  mos 
The  Romaaeeque  Churdi  of  N.  S.  doe  OUvaes 

ktifribud  to  lilt  Temslaia.  Notice  the  choir, 
apsidal  windows,  *iti^»t«»<w*^wSi^  of  t^wdi  airiSi 
a  fine  west  rose-window,  and  west  door.  We 
shall  also  mention,  to  ecdesidogists,  theChapd 
ofSanGrcgorio,tfaatofLaPiedade.etc.    The 


town  is  thriving^  and  eoniaias  a  large 
manufoctory,  etc. 

C««#  i£r  if Mtf,  a  tunnel,  ao89  foot  m  lM«th : 
and  another,  1968  foot,  at  AUtrgmrim,  The 
river  Soura  is  crossed  at  Vtnmll,  and  PmAml 
ierenched.  Thii  imall  hut  snmeuhal  intmnst 
ing  town,  of  4900  inhabitants,  was  founded  by 
the  Teasplan  ia  nSi.  There  are  aoom  If  oor- 
ish  mins^  the  rsssaiasof  the  Tessplai^  Roasan- 
esque  Chur^  and  the  modem  Igr^  Matiis, 
interesting  as  having  been  for  eonw  tiam  the 
burial-plaoe  of  die  celehta|ad  Marquis  of  Poas- 
bal,  one  of  Portugal's  greatest  srstewseiy  born 
Mi^  13,^699.  Proceeding  on  our  Journey,  we 
croM  the  ICondcgo  at  Smmirm,  and  soon  after 
arrive  at  Coimbra. 

R^mU  B,  by  Aloofaafa  and  BataBm.  Most 
interesting  to  ecdesidogists,  and  those  who 
wish  to  e^foy  the  scenery  of  this  part  of  Poit» 
gaL  Ftom  Lisbon  by  ndl,  as  for  as  Caitepido^ 
36  kiL,  f  hi; ;  whence  to  Caldas  da  Rainha  by 
a  difi^nce,  which  leaves  three  tinws  a-week,  or 
a  carriage,  which  is  sentbyjoetf  Paulo  of  Cd- 
dai»  on  writing  to  him.  It  is  a  whole  day's 
Journey  to  Csklas,  where.sleep,  in  the  good  inn 
belonging  to  the  owner  of  the  carriage.  Next 
morning,  leave  by  the  same  carriage,  and  get 
in  that  evening  at  Bataiha,  visitiiV  Akdkafa  on 
the  way.  The  third  day,  to  Pombal  or  Con- 
fourth  day,  early  in  the  moniini. 
Farm:  4900  reis  per  day  for 
carriage  and  amies,  and  500  reis  to  driver  per 
day,  esKlusive  of  his  keqt.  Bade  drniga  of 
carriage  to  Csldas  to  be  paid.  Lisboi 
that  of  diligences,  Rua  Arco  Bandeira. 
are  decent  rstslsgfm'i  (inns)  at 
Bataiha,  Pombal,  and  Condrixa.  The 
are  called  'estacaos  do  nuida.*  Shortly  after 
leaving  Csiregado^  AUtmfmtr  ie 
old  city,  with  Moorish  wdb,  and 
foctuies.  The  country  becoams  woody 
Cmrrnrmt.  Ia  die  dismace  is  seen  the  salt  lake 
Lagoa,  connected  with  the  sea  by  a'dmnad; 
and  CttUtu  0U1  KmmMm  is  nm  liiiil  fwamH^Lwi 
5000  mhabitants.  This 
hydro-sulphuretted  firings  ars : 
stands  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Amoya,  at  the 
foot  id  Sierra  do  Boira:  is  dean  and  well 
paved,  and  surrounded  by  pretty  gardens.  The 
nded  by  Queen  1 
the  first  to  draw  phyiicisni*  attention 
the  springs.  It  was  rebuilt  by  Joio  V. 
are  five  yinga,  withatempsratiireof  9e*Fahr. 
The  water  is  hnqiid  and  very  gaseom,  contain- 
ing 16  per  cent  of  caib.  and  solplid.  add. 
The  accommodation  is  eaodlent  TheChnch 
of  N.  S.  do  PopuBo,  which  forms  part  of  the 
hospital,  has  sonw  good  sculpturs,  an 
bdfry,  and  the  walls  in  the 


COIMBRA. — R0X7TB& 


547 


curious  asukjoc  The  Cmuio  Libfary  oonteint 
sone  interestiaf  books.  The  country  between 
this  and  Akobefa  is  irery  chenning ;  the  road 
is  steep.  Those  who  can  spare  time  should 
visit  OMm,  3I  miles  S.  W.  of  Caldos,  a  curious 
medimral  little  town,  abounding  inGoduc  and 
Moorish  remmns,  and  containing  sevenchufAes, 
with  curious  tombs,  etc 

Atctbmfo,  1500  inhabitants,  situated  at  the 
junction  of  the  rirers  Alcoa  and  Baga,  two 
small  watercourses  which  have  formed  its 
name.  The  town  n  dean  and  pretty.  The 
sights  hcse  are :  the  very  interesting  Church  of 
Akobaga,  the  largest  Cistertian  convent  in  the 
world,  and  the  Moorish  Casde. 

The  convent  was  founded  1148,  by  Alfonso 
Henriques,  who  peopled  it  with  monks,  sent 
expressly  by  St  B^nard,  at  that  king^  re- 
quest. It  was  finished  in  sssa.  lu  total 
length  is  960  feet,  its  height  about  64.  The 
style  is  said  to  be  purely  Cistertian ;  the  work, 
that  of  a  French  architect  The  front  is  plain 
and  mqnepoesessiqg.  In  the  centre  rises  the 
gable  of  the  church,  fianked  by  two  towen, 
and  crowned  with  a  statue  of  the '^Hrgin.  On 
eadi  side  extend  plain  bare  wings.  The 
interior  is  of  a  pure  Gothic  style,  heautifti]  and 
simile.  It  consists  of  a  very  huge  nave,  with 
twelve  very  high  pier«rches.  There  is  no  trt- 
forium  or  clerestory.  There  is  a  circular  apse, 
a  presbytery  with  nine  chapels  round,  transepts 
with  aides.  Thus  are  formed  three  naves  out 
of  the  centnd  one :  the  central,  dedicated  to  the 
Virgin;  that  on  left,  to  St  Michael;  and  that 
on  ri^t,  to  St  Bernard.  The  apse  contains 
strikingly-beautiful  windows^  and  these  tran- 
septs are  terminated  by  two  fine  rose-windows; 
but  the  most  important  feature  are  the  tombs. 
In  the  south  transept  chsqiel  are  the  tombs  of 
Afibnso  IL  and  Alfonso  IIL,  and  their  queens. 
Notice,  more  particulariy,  in  a  chapd  on  the 
right,  the  mausoleums  ik  D.  Pedro  and  the 
celebrated  (Da.  Ignes  de  Castro.  The  two 
lovers  have  been  placed  foot  to  foot,  in  order, 
according  to  tradtrion,  that  at  the  resurrection, 
on  rising  fitmi  their  tombs,  the  first  ot:»}ect  that 
should  meet  their  eyes  might  be  eadi  other^s 
beloved  forms.  Nothing  can  exceed,  in  exqui- 
rite  delicacy  and  grace,  the  queen's  tomb,  and 
her  lace-like  ornamentation.  Da.  Ignes^ 
effigy  was  sculptured  under  the  king^  own 
eyes:  the  bassi  relMvi  represent  f£t  Last 
Judgment,  Purgatory,  Resurrection,  and  the 
suffo^ngs  of  the  eariiest  martyrs— all  most 
beautifully  carved.  The  chapeb  in  the  left 
wing  are  overloaded  with  fasfelem  ornaments, 
and  contain  a  few  plaster  statues  and  asulega 
pavements.  There  is  a  fine  west  door,  of  seven 
orders.  The  central  cknster,  called  dt  D. 
JMeiir,  is  die  finest   A  grand  staircase  leads  to 


the  large  fibtary,  whoee  former  S5,ooo  volumet 
and  500  MSS.  have  been  rsmofed  to  BibL  Nac 
Lisbon.  Impmtant  works  fA  restoration  art 
being  carried  on,  and  attended  with  great 


The  Mtmridk  CmMiit  retaias 
features  of  past  inqMNtanca.  On  leaving  Alco- 
baga,  the  river  Alcoa  is  uossad,  and  A||obar- 
rota  reached— a  village  of  no  interest,  save  for 
its  association  with  the  great  battle  of  that 
name,  fought,  August  15, 1385,  between  Join  I. 
and  the  Castillians,  which  decided  the  inde- 
pendence of  the  kingdom,  and  in  memory  ol 
which  that  kti«  erected  the  Convent  of  Batalha. 
inm  scenery  loses  now  all  its  former  diarm, 
and  the  road  becomes  very  sleep,  till  we 
die  celebrated  convent,  edkiee  pinnacles 
seen  rising  duough  the  trees. 

Bmtmlkm.'—Tbit  village  of  that  name,  1300 
inhabitants,  rises  on  the  banks  of  the  Lena.  Its' 
principal  sight— its  only  one, .indeed — is  the 
beautiful  convent  of  that  name,  which  is  con- 
sidered tk0  fuMSt  architectural  monument  in 
PortugaL  The  whole  buildii«  consists  of  five 
portions:  the  diurch,  the  founder's  chsqiel,  the 
doisters  and  diapter>room,  the  smaller  dobten 
and  monastery,  imd  the  chsqiel  called  CapeOa 
Imperfeita.  It  was  built  by  King  Join  I.,  in 
compliance  with  a  vow  he  had  made  during  the 
battle  ni  Aljubarrota,  and  completed  in  1513. 
The  grouiKis  and  buOding  were  given  by  that 
monarch  to  the  Dominican  monks  in  1388, 
diree  years  afler  the  victory  achieved  by  him 
over  ^  rsstillians  The  ardutects  «^  de- 
signed the  plan  are  said  to  have  been  a  Portu* 
gueee,  Alfonso  DomiiOues,  and  an  Irishmen 
called  Aquet,  or  Huet,  by  die  natives,  but 
more  likely  Hacket  The  st]^  is  German- 
Gothic,  with  an  admixture  of  French  details 
and  orientalised  decoration.  Tnoet^i  defective 
in  its  proportions,  the  general  design  is  good ; 
and  there  are  portions,  sudi  as  the  sepulchral 
rhapels,  whidi  redeem,  bowefei  madi  the  rest 
nmy  disappomt  the  obeerver.  The  omamenta^ 
tion  M  of  the  richest  character,  often  attainmg 
a  very  high  ucgiee  of  beauty  and  perfection. 

Tkt  Ckmrth.'^lt  is  cradform  in  plan,  not 
unUke  dmt  of  an  Italian  beriKrs,  a  three*aided 
nave,with  two  chapels  at  the  eastern  part  of  each 
transept  7ne  extent  nom  west  to  east  is  of 
410  feet ;  that  from  north  to  south,  mdoding 
the  monastery,  541  feet  The  portal,  which 
stands  twelve  stqM  hitler  than  the  levd  of  the 
ground,  is  a8  feet  wide  by  57  Ugh,  and  deco- 
rated with  numberlem  stati 
Moses  and  the  prophets,  saints, 
popes,  kings,  etc,  eadi  resting  en  a  nchly- 
moulded  pedestal  and  its  peculiar  attributes. 
The  portal  itself  Ims  still 
aboutit    A  niche  of 


548 


OOIMBIU. — BOXTTEa 


tbt  •ffgy  of  our  Sariour  Mated  on  a  thitMia,  a 
globa  IB  one  hand,  wbakt  tha  ri^  ona  is  ax- 
tended  in  tba  act  <^  dicteting  to  tha  four 
avangafaH^  whoaa  afligias  itend  round.  Tba 
interior  ia  grand  and  phin.  Tha  liaglh  of 
choir  and  nava  ia  o66laac;  diahai^i^9o;  tha 
bays  ara  ai^  in  ntiBBbar.  Tha  piar-aidMa 
riaa  to  a  hei^t  d  6$  iaat ;  and  thare  is  no  tri- 
forioB.  The  high  ogival  wfaidows  ara  richly 
painted.  Tha  first  cfai^Ml  to  tha  north  is  dadi- 
catad  to  St:  Barfaarst  and  conteins  tha  tomb 
and  dafiwad  sUalds  of  tha  D.  of  Aveiro:  tha 
naxt,  of  N.  8.  do  Roaario»  contahis  that  of  D. 
Isabd,  wifa  of  Alfonso  V,  Tha  soodi  diapal 
is  tha  borying-plaoa  of  tha  fiunily  of  tha  Da 
Smiaaa.  The  thtir  ia  of  no  intarast^  and  iu 
dataib  nodaniaad.  Bafbra  tha  Ai(rl  «/ter  is 
tha  tomb  of  tha  fotrndai's  son,  Don  Duarto, 
and  his  quaan,  Laooor  (1433*38). 

Cm^tlU  d»  Flm$4lddfr.  ^T}m  btaresting 
ffm^un  haia  consists  in  tha  original  plan.  ^*^***g 
that  of  'tha  largest  Gothic  dome  attempted.' 
The  octagonal  hiatem  is  40  feet  in  diameter, 
and  rssts  on  eight  large  pios,  with  exquisitely 
designed  archBa,  with  mouldings  gilt  and 
colotuad.  Notice  everything  here:  the  win- 
dows»  vaulting,  and,  above  all,  the  magnificent 
■sausolauma  of  D.  Joio  and  hb  queen  PhtUppa 
of  Lancaster,  who  is  said  to  have  influenced 
the  choice  of  the  design,  and  contributed  to  the 
beanty  of  many  poftioaa.  Their  effigies  are 
very  fine:  obaarve  the  arms  of  Portugal  doae 
to  the  order  of  the  garter,  and  die  royal  OMtto, 
'  n  me  plait,'  alternately  with  the  Pbrtnguese 
'  For  Bern.'  In  niches  on  south  side  are  the 
tomba  of  the  founder's  fiwr  younger  children^ 
vis.  the  celebrated  Prince  Deo  Henrique  with 
his  motto,  'Talan  ob  bixn  Fmmm  ;'  Fcnmndo, 
Crand-master  of  Avis,  with  his  sMtto,  'Lb 
BiBN  MB  PuiiT ;' Don  Pedro,  with  his '  Dbsib  : ' 
and  OB  that  of  ^ofio, '  Jb  ai  bibn  baison.'  The 
ahars,  once  with  painrings  by  Gnm  Vasco,  are 
of  no  interssL  This  bouitifid  chapel,  as  well 
as  other  portiona  of  the  structure,  has  been 
ii^urad  ailid  partly  defaced  by  the  French,  but 
is  being,  hka  aH  the  rest,  very  carefiiUy  restored, 
in  a  st]^  wordiyof  this,  one  of  the  most  superb 
eramples  extant  of  Gothic  dacocativa  art. 

CMtiert  ara  entered  through  a  plain 
vaulted  sacristy,  whidi  fonteins  no  object  of 
intersst  save  a  few  refics  of  Jofio  L  The 
diapter-house  (Casa  do  Capitulo)  is  one  of  the 
moat  interesting  and  beautilul  parts  of  the 
building.  It  is  an  almost  perfectly  square  haD, 
with  a  magnificant  stone  cupola,  lighted  by  an 
exquisitely  dawgnad  thraa-Ught  window  with 
colourad  glass:  subject,  the  Passion  of  Our 
Lord.  It  is  the  mastaipieca  of  Mateo  Far- 
its  architect  In  the  centre  ara  the 
wooden  oottns  of  Affimso  V.  and  his 


queen  Donna  Isabel  Tha  cloistafs  ara  aasoag 
the  finest  in  the  world.  Tha  entrance  to  them  is 
moat  beautifial,  though  soasewfaat  heavy.  The 
proportions  are  180  feet  square,  each  side 
pierced  with  seven  windows,  of  BMSt  effective 
tracery.  Tha  sculpture,  the  fiwntehis^  the 
N.  W.  angle  and  its  ornamentation,  ara  aS 
most  strikingly  beautifiiL 

CmJtUm  Im/tK/Uia,  so  called  becaaaa  it 
was  never  completed,  is  an  octagonal  T^^p*^ 
built  by  Don  Manoel  in  that  fiaa^oyant,  over' 
oraamented  Gothic,  peculiar  to  asany  Porte* 
guese  erections.  Ite  principal  feature  ot  in- 
terest consiste  in  iu  wonderfully  decorated 
western  arched  entrance  which  exceeds  all 
that  fimcy  could  imagine  The  principal  deco- 
rative subject  seems  to  be  a  series  of  knotted 
cables,  with  the  often  repoOed  and  hithnto 
nnexflained  words,  '  tenyas  erei,'  and  the 
globe,  the  canting  arms  adopted  by  Deo 
ManoeL  The  portaon  allotted  to  the  dwaOiag 
of  the  BBonks  waa  burnt  in  tSto;  andttha 
grand  spire,  wfaiui  rose  M.  W.  of  traaaept^  waa 
struck  by  lightning,  the  preaent  fine  one  being, 
however,  a  good  substitute. 


LHrim,  which  ia  next  reached  on  hiaiiiig 
Batalha,  pomemes  no  ol^lect  of  interesc  Ite 
cathedral  is  a  irvw^rft  building,  and  ite  ra^V^ 
once  very  strong  and  in^Mttant,  is  all  in  ruins. 
Pmnkai  is  the  next  town  of  any  iaqtortance  on 
the  road.  From  latter,  through  JP^dSwA^,  we 
get  to  Cmtdiism,  a  dous  little  town,  ot  laoo 
inhahitents,  ia  the  province  of  Beira,  is  kih. 
firom  which  stands 


X^mit  C— By  Tones  Vediaa  (see  that 
and  route  from  LisboaX  whence  by  Fanwihal, 
a  league  left  firom  which  is  the  little  vSlage 
and  battlefield  of  Visseiro^  where^  Augnt  st, 
1808,  Sir  Arthur  Welleoley  defeated  Junot's 
army,  which  led  to  the  oooventioa  of  Gatra : 
then  continue  by  Roliga,  thaaoaneof  a  hard- 
Caught  •*•*"*■*  >!*■»  Mills  ■Hmth  and  vaar.  •»»«i 
but  a  few  days  befi>re,  between  Sir  A.  Wellea- 
ley  and  the  Ftendi  foroea  under  DeLaborde^ 
die  result  d  which  was  not  dedeiveb  but  un- 
fevourable  to  tha  Hritieh  troops,  whose  progress 
was  aMmentarily  chedted.  Hence  to  Obaloe^ 
already  described.  Route  A,  whence  an  excur- 
sion can  be  nmde  to  Cape  Penile  and  the 
Berleogas,  ot  little  intcrett  to  the  gensral 
tourist;  but  the  fonner  of  which,  being  one  of 
the  moat  Important  fortificatioBs  m  Portugal^ 
the  mifitary  tourist  win  do  well  to  visit.  The 
peninsula  of  Pankhe  is  i|  league  fai  drcnaa- 
tfff^p^i  contains  3000  inhabitantiu  Ite  church, 
da  la  Misaricordia,  contains  55  oil-paiBtiaga  af 
aooMBMrit.  A  good  harbour.  Cape 
at  the 


OODCBRA. 


549 


BerlenfM  oppcMite  are  •  moat  daogerous  fronp 
at  rocky  idttMit,  thA  laifcst  of  wfaidi  Jb  ut- 
fcabitod.    A  UgfathooM  and  a  Ibtt. 

OOUCBRA. 

Jloieb. — ^The  beat  are  Hotel  do  Mbn- 
dego  and  Hotel  do  Caminho  de  Ferro— 
neitlier  flntnte.  Chaigaa  aboat  1000 
r^  a-day,  all  included. 

The  dtaation  of  this  city,  on  a  rocky 
hill  and  ita  alopei,  at  the  foot  of  which 
flowa  the  Mondego,  ia  moat  piotiireaiiQe 
mnd  pleating.  It  ia  no  leaa  intereeting 
for  iti  hiatmical  aaaodationi,  the  enTi- 
rouB,  and  the  ezecmiona  which  are  to  be 
made  in  the  Tidnity.  The  streeta  are 
narrow,  ateep^  and  dirty.  '  Ooimbra,' 
saya  Ifnrphy,  'ia  about  aa  rooky  aa 
Oporto ;  in  either  place  it  ia  impoaaible 
for  old  and  gonty  people  to  walk.'  It 
waa  for  a  long  time  a  Mooriah  atrong- 
hold,  bat  waa  wreated  fh>m  the  Infidel  in 
1064  by  the  armiea  of  Don  Fernando  the 
Oreat  and  the  celebrated  Oid,  Don  Bod- 
rigo  de  Birar.  Ooimbra  became  the 
capital  of  the  kingdom  till  the  reign  of 
Jotto  L,  alter  whoee  election,  and  at  the 
reqaeet  of  the  nobility  and  cortea,  the 
aeat  of  goremment  waa  tranafened  to 
lisbon.  The  dty  haa  figured,  moreorer, 
Tery  conspicaonaly  in  modem  timea  too» 
for  it  waa  in  ita  Tidnity  that  the  cele- 
brated battle  of  Buaaco  waa  fought, 
September  27, 1810,  between  the  Duke 
of  Wdlington,  at  the  head  of  40,000 
men,  moat  of  which  were  Portagoeae 
reemita^  and  llaaaena'a  foroea,  numbering 
65,000,  the  reanlt  of  which  waa  a  gloriona 
▼ictory,  won  by  Britiah  disdplkM  and 
the  irreaiatible  onaet  of  the  0th  Recent 
There  ia  aome  actiTity  in  the  town,  and 
acTeral  mannfaetnrea.  The  UniTenity, 
originally  founded  at  Liabon,  waa  trana- 
fened to  thia  dty  by  Jotto  IIL,  and  aoon 
became  one  of  the  moat  important  in 
Southern  Europe.  It  ia  atOl  held  in 
hi^  repute;  and  ita  fiTe  'fiMmltiea' — 
Tis.,  of  theology,  law,  medidne,  mathe* 
matica,  and  philoeophy — are  much  fre- 
quented, the  number  of  atudenta  amount- 
*  ing  to  upwarda  of  960.  The  principal 
ai^ita  are— the  Cathedral,  Sta.  OUm, 
UniTerdty,  Bridge^  and  the  Quinta  daa 
Tiagrimaa, 


There  are  two  cathedrala.  The  new 
one  ia  a  modem  unintereating  building ; 
the  earlier  one,  '  Se  Yelha,'  ia  aaid  to 
have  been  built  on  the  aita  of  a  moaque, 
and  retaina  portkma  of  the  original^ 
buildings  of  the  time  of  AiTonao 
Henriquea.  Obaerre,  among  other  ob- 
Jeeta  of  intereat,  D.  Sianando'a  tomb, 
1260,  on  the  ri|^t  of' the  N.  entimnce  ; 
the  fine  flamboyant  retablo  of  the  high 
altar ;  the  Bomaneaque  windowa  in  & 
tranaept ;  the  tomba  on  either  aide  of  the 
hi^i-altar ;  the  escellent  weat  door  end 
whidow,  of  the  Bomaneaque  atyle ;  1^ 
asul^Joa,  uaed  ererywhere^  almoat,  and 
often  with  great  eflioct;  the  fine  chapel 
of  the  twdre  apoatlea,  etc  The  other 
eic^t  pariah  churohea  fail  in  intereat,  aave 
that  of  Sta.  0^  built  1616,  by  D. 
Manoel — e  nave  of  five  baya,  tomba  of 
the  firat  kingi  of  Portugal,  Aifonao  Hen- 
riquea and  Sancho  L  An  upper  shoir, 
whoee  atalla,  aeventy-two  in  number,  are 
moat  beautifully  carved ;  the  fine  flam- 
boyant doiateia  and  cara  do  ciqpitalo. 
In  the  'Santuario,'  doee  by,  are  aeen 
aeveral  intereeting  relica  of  Aifonao  Hen- 
riquea, etc.  TheChmnhiifSanSakndcr 
ia  a  email  Bomaneeque  building  of  ^D. 
1169,  founded  by  ErtevMo  Martins,  with 
a  diapel  of  that  name^  worth  aedng. 
The  Uni9tniip  oondata  of  a  aerlea  of 
buildinga  atanding  on  the  plateau  of  a 
hill,  of  great  extent,  butno  magniJkpance. 
There  are  eighteen  ooUegea  in  all ;  a  Ibe 
library  containing  60,000  volumea,  moat 
of  which  paaaed  from,  the  Ubrariee  of  the 
auppreaaed  conventa  of  8.  Bento,  Sta. 
Cms,  and  othen.  The  ooQectiona  of 
natural  hiatcny,  the  laboratoriea,  obeova- 
tory,  etc.,  are  on  a  large  acale,  and  admir- 
ably conducted.  Ao.  Clara^  now  all  in 
mina,waaonoeafinemonaater3r;  founded 
byDon*MorI>iaa,1886.  Itiaintereatfaig 
aa  having  been  the  firat  burial-plaoe  of 
Dona  Ignaa  de  Oaatro^  who,  aeven  yeara 
after  her  death,  waa  diaintened,  to  be 
crowned  in  pomp^  and  be  awom  fealty  to 
aa  queen  of  FortagaL  QtiitUa  dot  Lagri' 
wiaSf  on  the  farther  aide  of  the  river,  waa 
the  leaidenee  or  refuge  of  the  Uit  and 
poetical  Ignea  de  Oaatro^  who  waa  aecretly 
married  to  the  Infante  Don  Pedro^ 
AflSmao  IV/a  mm ;  and  Ym%  January  7. 


550 


PORTO. 


1866,  ihe  mm  barbMomly  mmderad  in 
thftt  king's  prasenoe^  and  by  hit  orden; 
on  letrning  which,  Don  Ptodro  rote  againtt 
hii  filler,  laid  waste  the  whole  of  Minho, 
and,  on  Ids  aooesdon  to  the  throne^  pat 
the  mnxderen  to  death,  proclaimed  his 
marriage,  and  ordered  tiie  coronation  of 
the  corpse.  The  story  forms  one  of  the 
most  ^matic  episodes  in  history,  and 
has  inspired  many  a  poet  besides  Caih- 


The  miinta  is  now  the  piopeitj  td 
Don  Miguel  Osorio  Oabral  de  Osstro^  wlw 
allows  tonrists  to  Tisit  the  gardens ;  the 
springs  shaded  by  beantiftil  cedars,  called 
Fonte  doe  Amores.  The  Tiew  of  Uie  dty 
and  rijer  is  Tery  striking.  The  bridge 
and  aqnednot,  the  botaniod  garden,  i^idi 
is  also  the  most  frequented  promenade, 
ahonld  also  be  Visited. 


PORTO  (Oporto). 


Capital  of  prorince  of  Bntre-Donro-e- 
Minho  <Minho),  an  episcopal  see,  sea- 
port ;  population  upwardi  of  90,000  in- 
haUtants,  including  the  suburbs. 


Mtmiu0fA€m*,  I. 
en  Icsve  London,  Liverpool,  and  Ghagow,  at 
regnfaur  intervals  for  Opoito,  which  thoy  wach 
in  four  days,  but  fivt  more  gtoerally ;  passagrt 
bting,  of  coarse,  longer  fai  winter.  London 
agents,  JuUus  Thoesson  *  Ca :  the  '  Storia,' 
and  the  '  Beta  *  leave  London,  off  Bast  Lane 
Stairs,  twice  annonth ;  agents,  A.  ft  G.  Robin- 
son,  so  Mark  Lane.  From  Bristol,  one  a-SMnth, 
by  Ttaner,  Edwards,  ft  Co.*s  steamers. 

of  Oe.  Poitif 


gaise  de  Nav.  k  vap.,  leave  on  tsth  of  eadi 
month ;  agents  at  Havre,  Messrs.  Fehr  ft  Co. , 

3.  Vrom  Spaluw— Besides  the  tiding— tours, 
etc.,  (for  iHuch  see  p  553,  'Excorsioas  in 
quest  of  Scenery  Ol  by  Ttty  and  ^Hgo,  byasmall 
diligence  service  between  Vigo  and  Oporto. 
Vigo  to  Tby,  it  mSes.  From  Tkiy,  either  by 
Valen^a,  two  days  Joomey  to  Opoito,  or  by 
steaaMTS  that  go  down  die  liver  bstwecn 
Valenfa  and  Coimbra,  and  from  latter  to 
Vienna  in  a  carriage,  and  thence  to  Oporto  by 
diligence.    Coimbra  to  Oporto,  t6  hours. 

4.  Vrom  ZdaboB,  by  sea,  by  steamers  of 
Empresa  Portuense,  in  so  hours,  several 
times  a  asonth,  etc ;  by  land,  the  most 
direct,'  by  rail  throu^  Coimbra,  distance, 
33s  kit ;  '  time,  l|  hrs.  (exprem  train) : 
fares,  ist  d.,  6300  rds :  sd,  4900  reis  (ist  and 
ad  cL,  no  3d  cL)  Buffets  at  Carrsgado,  San- 
ff^^  the  JnnctioB  ( w^  TiTBfyft't****)i  and 
Coimbra.  Omntbuses  in  attendance  at  the 
latter  station.  For  description  of  route  as 
for  as  Coimbra,  see  that  nasM.  The  scenery  on 
leaving  Cotssbra  is  of  no  interest,  and  devoid 
of  an  beauty.  From  the  station  tiMmlkmdm^ 
andondierii^  is  seen  rising  ia  the  distance 
the  Sewa  de  Bussaco,  the  site  of  the  battle  of 
that  aame,  fought  ia  ttio  between  the  British 
and  Frsndk  troops,  and  wUdi  added  a  laurel 


more  to  the  Duke  tJl  WeOiagtoa's  crown  of 
glory.  Apfirf,  7000  inhab  This,  the  Roman 
Averiun^  a  bishopTs  see,  stands  on  the  Ria  of 
that  name,  pomeirai  a  port  ntuated  on  die  left 
bank  and  at  the  asouth  of  the  Voi^a.  The 
Riaisasak  lake,  separated  from  the  sea  by  a 
bar  of  sand.  Salt  and  fish  are  the  prindpal 
articles  of  trade.  Variero  sailed  from  ^is  place 
when  he  discoversd  Newfoundland. 

Opmr,  so^ooo  inhab,  on  the  river  of  the  same 
name,  and  $  kiL  only  from  the  Atlantic,  is  a 
pro^MTOus  town,  busily  engaged  la  exports  to 
the  colonies  and  N.  coast  of  Africa.  Fish  is 
also  an  important  article  of  trade.  It  is  ua- 
wholesoese  and  subject  to  nmhria. 

ViUmm09m  da  Gmim  is  abeadya  suburb  of 
Forto,  with  iHiich  it  is  connected  by  a  suqien- 
SMW-bndge. 

POBTO  (or  Ofomo). 

Hotola.-!nie  best  are  Sotd  ISmik- 
/brt,  in  Bna  do  D.  Pedro^  kept  bj  an 
Bni^ishwoman ;  and  D*  dtin't,  or 
.9i^^i7oM;inBnadeBebolein.  The 
chsiges  are  about  1600  r^;  they  are- 
both  comfortable  and  quiet 

This  Tsry  andent  and  oommsreial  dty 
is  buUt  on  the  N.  side  of  the  Douro^  on 
the  slopes  of  the  two  hills  '  Da  8^'  and 
'  Da  Victoria,'  about  ilTe  miles  fh>m  tha 
sea.  It  is  diTided  into  three  districts  or 
bairros,  and  has  four  suburbs,  which,  wiUi 
the  former,  cofer  an  area  of  about  two- 
miles  in  length.  Its  thickly- grouped 
buildings  rise  in  amphitheatre^  wtth  por- 
tions overhanging  ths  beautiftil  rirer  and 
its  partly  wooded  banks.  On  the  oppo- 
site bank  stood  the  old  (kh,  now  Qaya, 
which  is  said  to  have  giren,  coupled  with 
Porto^itspressntnametoPortugaL  Thia 
dty  luM  dways  taken  a  ptuminent  pari 
in  politics,  and  was  one  of  the  first  that 


PORTO. 


051 


rote  againtt  the  Frendi  inTiden  during 
the  Peninsular  wv.  In  May  llf  1809, 
the  daring  passage  of  the  Dooio  by  the 
Duke  of  Wellington  was  witnessed  by  its 
wondering  and  elated  inhabitants — a  feat 
so  bddly  snd  suddenly  aocomplished, 
that,  meanwhile,  Mar^al  Sonlt  was 
quietly  sitting  down  to  a  dinner,  which 
was  eaten  by  the  snooeasfnl  duke  and 
his  staff:  The  dty  is  Aill  of  life  and 
prosperity.  The  streets,  some  of  them 
broad  and  handsome,  are  generally  spesk- 
ing  Tery  steeps  dirty,  and  lll-paTedL  The 
houses  are  mostly  of  inegnlar  oon- 
stmetion,  but  comfortable  inside.  There 
are  Tsry  few  yehides^  on  aooomit  of  the 
dilferenoes  of  lereL  The  qnays  are  built 
on  a  Tery  large  scale,  and,  like  the  streets, 
are  well  lighted  with  gas.  The  principal 
streets  are:  Rna  Nova  doe  Tngletss, 
which  is  broad,  handsome^  and  Tery  dean ; 
over  it,  on  a  steep  crag,  is  seen  rising  the 
Bishop's  Palace ;  on  ttio  left,  stands  one 
of  the  largest  boildings  here^  the  English 
factory,  bnilt  1790.  Obsenre  the  gilt  and 
painted  balconies  of  the  booses.  Rna 
das  Flores  is  the  best  paved  and  wealthiest 
street  in  Porto,  and  is  lined  by  gold- 
smiths' and  doth  merchant's  shops.  In 
the  former  may  be  noticed  the  sntiqae 
crosses  and  Moorish  filigree  trinkets. 
The  gold  was  reckoned  not  long  ago  the 
purest  in  the  world.  In  the  CUbnia  do§ 
dengoi  is  the  fine  tower  of  that  name, 
which  is  210  ft  high,  an  erection  of  1779, 
made  at  the  expense  of  the  clergy  of 
POrto,  whence  the  name.  Theriewfircmi 
the  summit  is  eztenslTe,  and  will  repay 
the  trouble  of  ascending  the  hi^^  granite 
steps.  In  and  aboutRoa  de  8.  Ddefooso 
live  saddlers  and  hatters.  Am  dot 
HorUu  is  curious  for  the  richly  gilt  and 
painted  bdconies  of  the  houses  iHiich 
line  its  sides.  There  are  twdre  squares, 
the  most  remarkable  of  which  are,  Profs 
de  Sih  Lamro,  well  planted,  and  with 
convents  at  the  sidee ;  and  the  Campo 
do$  MarUrudaPtUria,  with  a  handsome 
hoepital,  courts  of  law,  the  Foundling 
Asylum,  in  which  may  be  seen  the  whed 
where  infuts  are  depodted.  The  new 
market-place,  called  Oordoaria,  well  sup- 
j>lied  with  meat,  fish,  fruit,  and  vege- 
tables, and  which  should  be  vidted  on  a 


Saturdsj  morning.  There  are  besides 
several  pretty  promenades,  fountains,  and 
dtes  from  which  grand  and  eztendve 
views  can  be  obtained,  such  as  '  Campo 
do  Dnqne  de  Brannsa,'  'Torre  doe 
Clerigoe,^  <  Laigo  das  Yirtndes,' the 'Ton- 
tainhas,'  etc.  The  Portuenses  are  active, 
enterprising,  and  more  enlightened  than 
intherestof  PortugaL  Beddes  the  wine 
trsde^  which  constitutes  its  most  Im- 
portsat  trade^  there  are  several  manufac- 
tures and  banking  establishments.  The 
largest  warehouses  bdong  mostly  to 
Snglish  firms  by  whom  most  of  the 
fordgn  trade  is  conducted. 

Sights. — Although  Porto  is  a  very 
andent  dtj,  it  is  very  poor  in  monument^ 
and  will  fail  to  interest  dght^eers ;  we 
shall  therefore  cursorily  mention  the  prin* 
dpd  featuree  of  the  OathtdreU,  or  'Be,' 
sdd  to  have  been  rebuilt  by  Alfonso  Hen- 
riqucs,  and  which  rises  on  the  summit  of 
a  hill,  cruciform  in  plan ;  early  pointed 
in  style ;  has  a  nave  with  five  bays  with 
ezoeUent  dustered  piers ;  eastern  diapds 
to  the  transepts.  The  eariy  Gothic  cloi- 
sters sre  worth  vidting ;  notice  the  sculp- 
ture and  asuk()o  bases  with  subjects  fh>m 
the  Song  of  Solomon;  a  fine  W.  end, 
with  two  dssriral  towers  and  a  magnifi- 
cent roee-window.  There  are  no  tombs 
of  interest,  save  one  in  the  doistsn  of 
Pedro  DurSo^  ob.  1291.  The  Episcopal 
Palace,  dtuated  aW.  of  the  cathedral, 
commands  a  very  fine  view ;  its  library  is 
said  to  be  good,  and  the  staircase^  the 
woric  of  Bi^p  Mendoca,  is  very  much 
admind.  Oose  by  is  ttie  Jtngiuk  Fac 
torg  ffoum,  erected  1790;  it  Is  all  of 
white  granite  and  Is  one  of  the  handsom- 
Qttbuildlngi  in  the  dty;  H  4s  said  to 
have  been  bnilt  fh>m  the  designs  of  Hr. 
Whitehead,  formeriy  British  Consul  at 
Oporto.  It  is  now  a  sort  of  dub^ionse^ 
tiie  ground-fioor  of  which  Is  used  as  an 
ezdMi^e.  There  are  a  good  library,  read- 
ing-rooms, dining-rooms,  a  ballroom  66  ft 
long  by  80  in  breadth.  Strangers  are 
introduced  through  a  member.  Hie 
churchee  are  all  modernised,  sad  offer  no 
sul^Ject  of  Interest  Ths  Ckmtk  €if  Am 
Mairtimhn  de  CedefeUa  (Cito'  VaoU)  re- 
tains  some  curious  Romanssqne  vestiges, 
especially  Its  N.  and  W.  doors.    Tlie  In- 


662 


PORTO — ENVIRONS. 


UHer  ^JShm  Fnmdioo  it  a  strange  maai 
of  rlbhlj-gili  looooo.  It  it  crodfonn,  and 
oontaint  a  flue  W.  window.  Hie  jyrind- 
pal  public  bnildingi  are: — the  Orphan 
Atylnm  of  Gra^a ;  Oua  de  Relano ;  the 
wagnifloent  Hospital  Real ;  the  San  OtI- 
dio  Barrackt,  which  can.  hold  8000  eol- 
dien,  and  the  Town-HalL  There  it  a 
good  public  Ubrary,  66,000  Tolumet  and 
enrioot  MBS.;  a  handsome  exchange, 
newlj  boilt ;  a  pictnre^lery  formed  by 
Mr.  Allen,  now  the  property  of  the  town, 
and  which  oontaina  also  a  fine  ooUectioo 
of  natural  history;  two  dnhe — ^fii.  At- 
samblea  Portnense  and  Fbitoria  Ingleia ; 
a  small  bat  pset^  theatre ;  a  fine  well 
laid  oat  cemetery ;  a  pleasant  '  passsto»' 
and,  on  Sundays,  the  ehanning  gardens  of 
Oount  de  Rsaoide  are  thrown  open  to  the 
public^  and  should  be  Tisited. 

Hie  celebrated  port- wine  stores,  'ar- 
maien%'  are  sitoaied  in  the  suburb  of 
VUlanofa  de  Gaya.  Tlie  aferage  export 
amounts  to  86,428  pipes  Sryear,  of  which 
87,294  are  ssot  exefosirely  to  the  United 
Kingdom.  The  Tintages  of  the  Upper 
Doiuo  may  be  reckoned,  on  an  aTerage^ 
at  70,000  to  80,000  pipes.  The  oidium, 
whidi  ilrst  ajqpeared  here  in  1868,  has 
greatly  diminished  the  production,  and 
contrnmted  in  a  way  to  the  growing  lis- 
Tour  in  Kngiand  for  good  French  wines, 
fStNT  which,  in  reality,  port  wine  was  ori- 
ginally adopted  as  a  substitute,  the  duties 
on  the  former  being  ezoessiTe.  The  prin- 
cipal winegrowing  (juintas  are  those  <Sf8r. 
D.  Gap.  OannaTaro^  Yisoountess  d'Alpen- 
durs,  Oount  de  VQlaTerde^  8r.  Dnartedm- 
Teba,eto.;  among  the  prineipel  wine-mer- 
chants we  may  name  Mr.  Sandeman,  etc 

The  JETorftoir  is  what  is  called  a  bar 
harbour,  and  therefore^  though  rery  capa- 
cious, is  not  secure,  being  eeldom  practic- 
able by  Tesseli  drawing  more  than  16  feet, 
and  by  others  only  at  high  water.  The 
Osstle  of  a  Jolo  de  Vol  is  situated  at  the 


entrance^  from  which  aledge  of  rods  and 
sandy  banks  extends  aW.,  the  largest  of 
whidi  is  FUgudrs,  seen  on  left  on  enter- 
ing the  bay.  It  1%  moreorer,  rendered 
dangerous  by  sodden  swellings  or '  freshes,' 
especially  at  the  period  when  the  moun- 
tahi  tonents  are  swollen  by  the  melting 
snows — the  rise  of  spring-tides  bdngfrxmi 
10  to  IS  feet 

Jtwoifmu. — A  pretfy  drive  may  be 
taken  to  St  Jolo  de  Foe,  a  sea-bi^hing 
hamlet  of  8000  inhabu,  with  good  accom- 
modation, and  which  can  also  be  readied 
by  steamers  which  stop  at  the  Jetty  of  La 
Ckntareira.  Bxeorsions  are  often  under- 
taken to  the  bin  of  SKo  Gens,  N.W.  of 
Porto,  the  Tiew  fix>m  which  is  beantital ; 

toMatosinhos.  *  near  the  Leea.  whose 
shrine  is  the  ol^eot  of  pilgrimage^  as  many 
often  as  80,000  pilgrims  lloddng  thither 
snnually  to  wordiip  this,  the  most  frrnous 
among  the  miraculous  images  of  Poit^gaL 
To  hill  of  Sita  Cosme  and  Tillage  of  Yal- 
lofgo^  doee  to  which  are  the  boMtiftil 
antimoay  mines,  which  deeenre  a  Tialt 
To  Villa  de  Fdra,  the  Roman  Locobriga, 
6  leagues^  Tisited  for  its  picturesque,  Tery 
andent,  end  iry-dad  ruinous  csstle.  Thoe 
are,besides,seTecal  tot  j  jiretty  Tfllas  worth 
Tisttin^  more  espedallyforthegroands  and 
the  msgnillcsnt  i^m^THas  and  magnolias 
grown  bk  them.  Among  others  we  sbUl 
mentioii  that  of  Freixo^  which  cnntahis 
besides  some  beantiftd  asumoe  (asorscho); 
and  that  where  Ghariee  Albert,  King  of 
Sardinia,  died  July  29,  1849  ;  the  four 
quintas  in  Bntre  Quintas,  and  especially 
that  'Do  Mdc^'  whichcontaine  a  magnolia 
whoee  branchss  corar  an  area  of  60  feet 
in  diameter. 

DktUary,^H.  B.  if.'s  CbiMiO— P.  J. 
V.  Ghtwfbid,  Esq. 
■ffflfiJhfTf. — ^MesfTi.  Ssndenan  9l  Go.* 
BootelZsnL— SQTa  Gulmarsns^  9  Ron 
dee  Gsldersiros,  and  Mot%  6  Roa  doe 
GIsrigoa. 


6ff3 


Minor  OitleB,   and  XxounionB  in  guest  of  Scenery. 

BRAQA  (MiNHO). 


by  tlie  mafl  ooadi 
(ouda  poita),  which  leATM  dailx  bctwticm  s  ud 
6  p.M,  or  tht  6aStf  diligenoe.  50  kfl. ;  good 
cwmfe  road ;  the  coontrjr  veiy  pleasant  At 
ViUanova  do  Famahicao  two  roads  braadi: 
one  leads  lo  Braga  by  the  hi^mMu^  the  odier 
goes  by  GoiniarMns  (17,000  inhabitants). 

iBnv»— PopdatioB,  is»9oo  inhabitants:  the 
Roaan  Bracara  Angnsta.  /mm.— De  Dois 
Amigos  and  Cordeiro  d'Ovo ;  decent  accom- 
modation. The  Soevi  choM  this  old  Cartha- 
ginian dty  for  their  capitaL  It  is  one  of  the 
oldest  Portuguese  cities  of  the  second  order ; 
and  iu  archbishop  disputes  with  that  of  Toledo 
the  primacy  of  all  the  Spains.  Braga  rises  on  a 
hill,  sunrnrnded  by  old  walls,  and  amid  a  plain 
entered  by  the  Cavndo  and  the  Deste.  Its 
streets  are  broad  and  its  hoiMes  veiy  old* 
There  are  two  squares  and  asaay  rhafsrinas 
(fountains).  The  sighu  are:  the  Cathedral, 
Archbishop's  Fslace,  Gardens,  and  the  Pil- 
grimage Cbapd  of  the  Bom  Jesus.  The 
Catktdt'ul  is  a  fine  large  building  oftheisth 
oentbiy,  but  has  been  rebuilt  bk  the  latest 
Gothic  style  and  partly  BMdemised.  llM«)gh 
small,  it  contahis  a  few  interesting  portions. 
Obeenre  the  tombs  of  Cbunt  Henriijoe  and  D. 
Tar^Ja  on  tim  sides  of  the  high  altar;  the 
dnquecento  canred  stalls,  in  Corondto ;  a  fine 
organ.  Cka^b^Tho&t  of  S.  P«lro  do  Rates, 
of  S.  Ovidio,  of  N.  S.  do  liorunento.  There 
are  soaM  fine  rtUct ;  a  golden  chaHoe  with 
bdls,  of  s6th  century,  etc.  Outside,  obeenre 
the  W.  entrance  and  arches,  and  the  Roman- 
esque S.  doorway.  ArckhUkoft  Pmiaet^-^K 
good  Ubraiy,  and  a  series  of  ^otraits  of  Arch- 
bishops of  Brsga.  Ckmnck  ^  Sim,  Crms.^ 
Built  164a ;  a  fine  front  The  Church  of  St 
Benedict  contains  rery  good  asulejos.  Visit 
also  the  fine  square  called  Campo  doe  Reme- 
dies, and  Campo  Sta.  Ama ;  also  the  gardens 
called  Praca  dos  Canralhos.  3  miles  E.  of 
dty  is  the  Pilgrimage  Church  of  the  Bom 
Jcnis  do  Monte ;  it  b  picturesquely  rituated, 
and  a  mudi  frequented  and  renowned  pilgrim- 
age. The  view  of  the  Geres  from  this  high 
standing-ground  to  after  all  the  most  interesting 
ntiinrf 


Pbfftdia,  X  L;  Barca,  x  L;  Aicoe,  x  L;— 8. 
A  very  bad  road :  a  guide  may  be  procured  at 
the  inn  close  lo  duirdi.  Mdra  dM  ascent  on 
E.  side^  by  Soaso  and  Adrfin;  $  hrs.  ara  re- 
quired. The  view  from  the  summit  exceeds 
description,  raoging  orer  die  ralleys  of  the 
Lima,  Vet,  and  Mhiho»  tim  distant  Attontic, 
part  of  Spain,  and  the  BstreUa.  Half,  tim 
ascent  can  be  perfonned  on  horseback.  The 
Onleiro  may  be  seen  to  advantage  from  a  hiU 
on  right  of  Barca,  crowned  by  the 
castle  of  Aboim  de  Nobrega. 


A»c9ni0fiht  Onieirf  MmUr.'~hak  8  leagoei^ 
tide, throi|{h a beaudlul country:  ByPontedo 
PnidOk  X  league;  Pico  de  Regaladoi^  x  L; 


Brmgrn  U  PtmU  d»  Limm  mmm  Vmltmfm,  10 
Ifisgiies  —A  most  picturesque  country ;  one  of 
thoee  most  frequently  undertaken.  Tlie  finest 
scenery  fies  about  Ponte  de  Lima,  which  to 
considered  tkt  most  lovdy  in  all  Portugal, 
and  deserved  the  name  it  received  from  the 
Romans—Yix.  the  'Elydsn  fields:*  the  Lima 
river  they  also  called  the 'Lethe,' or  River  of 
Oblivion.  A  decent  estakgea  to  to  be  fiNud 
in  the  shady,  narrow  town  of  Lima :  1900  in- 
habitants. The  site  of  the  Roman  Forum 
Limioorum.  Don  Ptodro  I.  enlarged  it,  and 
built  the  a4-arched  bridge  over  the  river. 
'The  envtoons  of  P.  de  lima,'  says  Lord 
Carnarvon, 'are  truly  ddightfiiL  The  horiaon 
to  bounded  by  a  fine  range  of  mountains,  and 
the  intervening  plains  are  tidily  wooded, 
while  vmes,  trained  over  trdna-woric,  hanging 
down  in  festoons,  and  covering  a  great  exiient 
of  country,  looked  like  an  endkm  succcmion  of 
luxuriant  arbours.'  The  banks  of  die  Lima 
equal  anything  Europe  contains,  so  fitf  as 
beauty,  lovelimsss,  and  colour  ara  expressed. 
Salmon,  trout,  and  barbds  abound.  It  to  navi- 
gable s  leagues  lo  flat-bottoeaed  boats.  The 
portion  over  the  Lmkrmfm  ma  Serrm  to  very 
beautifiil  and  makes  tq>  tut  the  hadnsii  of  die 
road.  At  Xmh'mtt  die  Coun  to  ciowtd  on  a 
fine  stone  bridge.  In  the  distance  are  descried 
the  rsnge  of  UUs  between  Vigo  and  Ortaae, 
Valence,  T^,  and  the  Minho. 

ymUmcm,  rfioo  inhabitants,  a  strong  fottius 
and  frontitf  town,  to  situated  on  the  left  bank 
of  die  Minho,  on  a  picturesque  luD.  It  con- 
tains a  parish  diurdi,  hospitsl,  and  barracks. 
Cloie  ty  to  the  vSlage  of  Gm$t/U,  with  a 
church,  early  but  nmdsrnJsed.  Vilasci  to  ^^go 
by  Tuy,  4  leagues. 

Bmiim  U  A  w^wwnfe— Very  fine  ec— iiy, 
riding  or  walkiag.    &aga  to  Bom  Jesa,  40 
Cddas  das  TsipM,  x|  hr. ; 


£64 


MIMOR  OmES,  AND  SXOURSIONa 


s|  hr. ;  Gftldat  de  Viidla,  i  hr.  to  nun.; 
Fenafid»  4  hn.;  Amanuite,  4  lin.Bt3  hn. 
A  day  or  two  •hould  be  tpeat  at  Bom  Jesus, 
for  the  sake  of  the  scenery  aroond,  eq;>eciaUy 
about  the  Falpena  hills,  wfaida  should  be 
ascended.  Two 'decent  inns^  Cm/mmfmimg 
inn  oppoeite  the  duirch— «s  an  ancient  dty, 
of  17,000  inhabw,  on  the  ri^  bank  of  the  Ave, 
and  dote  to  river  AaeviOa.  In  the  okkst  part 
of  the  town  are  the  rains  of  a  castle,  the  biith- 
place  cl  Aflbaso  I.,  D.  of  Brscanat;  the 
Church  of  N.  &  Da  OUreirs,  once  beautiAil, 
has  been  modernised !  a  valuable  collection  of 
Moorish  towen,  manufikcture  of 
fine  table  linmi,  etc.  Caldmt  de 
yjmitm  eaccllent  snlph.  springs  There  is  a 
road  Isading  direct  finom  GtumanMBS  to.Araa- 

Bntgm  U  CaUmt  de  GImnt.— A  ride  of  6| 
leagaes.  Magnificent  totany,  Reomlns  of  a 
isth  centniy  csstle  at  PimMrw.  At  the  inn 
here  procure  a  guide  to  St  Mamede,  a  chapd; 
the  view  firom  die  summit  is  very  fine.  A 
df<?ent  f<*fi1ygem  at  CfM^*^  whence  excursioas 
are  to  be  made  to— ist  PorteUa  de  Homem, 
4hours;  a.  to  convent  of  Abbadia;  3.  to 
Sfi^fiTiM>pdej  4  leagues  j  4*  to  the  twwT*  of  the 
mountain,  which  is,  however,  soesewhat  diffi- 
cult, and  inferior  to  Onteiro  and  Estrdla. 

Brmgm  U  CAmtm,  14  leagues  riding  or  walk- 
ing. The  ride  is  interssting  enough.  At 
Rmiwmt  the  Sena  de  S.  Mamede  is  seen  to 
advantage.  Ckmm§  6000  inhabitants— (the 
Roman  Aqum  Flavim)  rises  on  a  plateau, 
watered  by  the  Tamega;  a  strong  foitificatiao, 


and  really  dwsfnnng  its  name  ciKtyt  (Obmsr 
for  Clmves  or  CAaoe»),  a  Romanesque  duudi, 
the  burial-place  of  Alfonso  L  Good  hot  qiriags, 
I  S3  Fahr.  An  unhealthy  district.  From 
C^ves  an  escursion  should  be  mode  to  Moato- 
legre,  6  leagues.  Charming  scenery.  jVmUW- 
Ugre,  150  inhabitants.  An  uninteresting  cathe- 
dial  and  old  castle.  Sceneiy  veiy  pretty  in 
the  district  of  the  Gerss  hills.  Also  another  to 
Bn«aaai,  riding  by  Mm^finrU  d»  RU  L»rt, 
4000  inhabitants— of  no  interest,  .ffntfisiifa. 
An  estakgem  kept  by  A  Montanha.  A 
fortified  city  <^  5000  inhabitants.  The  Roman 
Brigantia  on  the  river  Fervensa;  a  bishop's 
see;  a  cathedral  very  insignificant ;  a  very 
fine  Ttif*Vfj  a^iere  the  marriage  took  place 
between  Podro  I.  and  Ignes  de 
teresting^  and  with  a  magnificent  view, 
impoitant  woollen  and  velveteen  w^i^^i^rif  tm t ^ 
Interesting  as  having  given  its  title  to  the 
present  reigning  fiunily.  Was  erected  into  a 
duchy  in  144s. 

Brmgm  U  Vimmmm  P0mU  dt  Umm  mmd 
^rvMd— Braga  to  Valenca  (»/  ntprm).  From 
latter  to  Vienna  by  the  steamer,  or  a  boat  to 
Caminha,  or  by  dfl.  to  Osminha     At  latter  a 

iSth  century.  Vimmmm^  7000  inhabitanta.  A 
British  vice-consulate,  hn  important  fortified 
place;  a  good  harbour;  a  flaadMyant  cathe- 
dral ;  convent  and  churn  01  &  Doanago,  a 
handsome  clsssir  structnrs ;  a  good  iaa  in  Rna 
de  S.  P«dro  No.  U,  Ftom  this  dty  to  Arcea 
6  leagues,  through  a 
Return  to  Biaga  ^  Pinheiro. 


ASCENT  O  F  THE  E8TRELLA. 


From  Oporto  03!  leaguei^  riding  or  waDdiv. 
Sleep  first  night  at  Cahe^aes  a  decent  ii|n; 
next  day  at  S.  Padro  do  Sul,  or  Vi^en,  At 
latter  9000  inhabitants;  a  good  inn,  kept  by 
Pinto ;  a  bishop's  see ;  an  interesting  cadie- 
dral,  contsining  the  best  pictures  known  of 
Gran  Vasoo  (boni  155a) ;  a  handsome  seauaary. 
Cm,  aooo  inhabitants;  wretdied  inn;  go  to 
sleep  at  Noosa  Senhora  da  d'Estarro^  whose 
sexton  procures  good  accommodation.    Take 


Ansehao  as  a  guide.  Visit  the 
Zeaere,  the  Cootara,  pnd  irtnlkk, 
lakes  found  in  the  EstrsDa 
interssting  of  whidi  is  Lj^oa 
be  fn^Tiirnlris  The  ascent  of  die 
may»  and  the 
in  five  hours;  the 
tmlw*  another  dav.  thouch  deemed 
beauty  to  the  Gersa.  The 
Estrella  is  very  grand  and 


of  the 
the  four 


said  to 

IS 

be 


in 
die 


Ospital  ofprofviaea  of  AImH^o. 
hah.— AithbiBhop*fttee. 

i?Mf<M.— The  most  direct  from 
the  railway ;  distsnce,  116  kiL 
jooor.:  ed,cL, 
aboat />fs«r  is  most 


inbab.,  is  pidaresqnely  situ- 


EVORA. 

atedoathe  banks  of  the  Q|aiha,aad 

aoU 
ffafiiMi  or 
where  two  Baes  branch,  one  to  Evora  and  die 
other  to  B^ 

/mw.— Hotel 
ia  the  beet. 


is  by 
tstcL, 


IN  QUEST  OF  80ENERT. 


55& 


Evont  k  considered  one  of  die  most  interest- 
inf  dtiee  in  Portugal,  and  is  certainly  one  of  its 
most  ancient  ones,  hang  founded,  it  is  ieiuved, 
in  the  6th  century  B.&  (I)  Q.  Sertorius  took 
the  dty  So  B.C,  imd  under  him  and  J.  Caosar 
it  became  very  impmtant  and  prosperous.  It 
fen  into  the  hands  of  the  Moors  in  715,  but 
was  recovered  from  them  towards  the  middle 
of  the  isth  century,  by  Giraldo,  sumamed  Sem 
Paror,  a  truly  Portuguese  chevalier  urns  ^fttr, 
but  not  MWf  re^racA^,  since  he  was  expdkd 
from  Affonso  Henrique^s  court  on  account  of 
his  misconduct,  and  took  to  robbing  on  a  huge 
scale,  but  was  easily  pardoned,  as  may  be  as 
easily  imagined,  ti^en  he  offered  this  dty  to 
the  inoemed  monarch,  n^  rewarded  him  with 
the  goremorship  of  the  place.  Thedtyismost 
charmii^ly  ntuated  on  a  plain,  planted  with 
oranges,  ^ves,  and  fig>trees,  and  very  well 
cultivated.  Tlie  streets  are  Tery  narrow, 
winding,  and  dirty.  The  most  remaifcable 
sights  are :  the  Cadiedral,  the  ArdiiqNacopal 
Library,  and  several  Roman  antiquities  of 
great  interest  and  good  preservatioo.  The 
Cmikidr^,  aa4  ieet  long  by  58  broad,  is  a  fine 
buildiog  of  die  tsdi  century,  with  additions  ot 
end  of  tath.  Its  most  remarkable  features  and 
obtfects  worthy  of  notice  are:  the  transepts,  the 
ridily-deconUed  choir,  the  work  of  Lndovid, 
Archbishop  of  Mafira.  Ckmnck^S^Fnmcite* 
dates  of  the  reigns  of  Joio  II.  and  D.  Manod, 
and  mnfains  pictures  ascribed  to  Gnm  Vaaoo. 
Visit  its  chamel«house  and  crypt,  vdiich  are 
curious.  The  ArtkUfitnpml  LUnay  was 
founded  s8os,  by  Ardi.  Cenaculo^  and  coo- 
tains  05,000  volumes  and  8000  MSS.;  but  it  is 
more'tmportant  for  the  fine  collection  of  paint- 
ings, said  to  be  by  Gran  Vasco»  representing  a 
series  of  subjects  out  of  the  Virgin's  life.  The 
best  are  said  to  be  the  Repoee  and  Adoration. 
There  are,  besides,  tome  early  pictures,  haakt, 
curious  shells,  aaid  a  magnificent  Limoges 
enamelled  triptych,  rspresentiag  the  crudfixioo. 


mounted  in  mosaio-gold.  It  belooged  to  Fran- 
cis L  <^  France,  and  was  found  on  the  battle- 
field  of  Pavia.  Among  the  Roman  antiquities 
we  may  mentioo  the  Ttw^  ^  Dimma,  68  feet 
long  by  40  broad,  principally  striking  for  its 
beautilul  Corinthian  columns;  and  fhitAfmt- 
dmi  ^fStrUrimtt  restored  by  Joio  III.  It  ie 
4  kiL  in  length ;  its  arches  are  built  with  brick, 
die  rest  of  irregular  stones.  It  is  terminated  by 
a  most  pictureeque  and  beautilttl  Roman  drcu- 
lar  tower,  or  'castellum,'  ts  feet  6  indies  in 
diameter,  and  surrounded  by  Ionic  columns. 
Its  preaorvation  is  most  remariraMe,  since  it  is 
amsrted  that  ita  erection  dates  70  b.c 

Bxcunmu  may  be  made  to  B^fm^  by  railway 
direct;  Evoca  to  junction  of  Casa  Branca, 
whence  by  rail  direct:  89  IdL  in  all;  tim^  3I' 
hours ;  fares,  ist  d.  x%y»  reis.    B^m,  6000  in- 
habitants ;  an  episcopal  see ;  the  Romas  Julia 


or  Pace,  situated  on  a  hill;  is  interesting  only 
on  account  of  the  many  Roman  antiquities  it 
contains,  among  i^iich  are  the  perfectly  pre- 


served north  waUiy  the  south  gate,  aqueduct 
and  inscrq;Kk>os,  etc,  kept  in  the  Qua  de 
Oimara.  The  OMdimval  casde^  built  by  Kh« 
Dinis^  is  weQ  preserved,  and  most  interestiiv  as 
an  example  of  that  qwdal  architecture.  The 
view  from  the  top  m  very  extensive*  The  only 
remarkable  church  is  thatof  N.S.daCoBsei(fio. 

AntiktrtscurtimiWKfht  made  from  B^ 
tdViUa  Vi(osa,35oo  inhabitants,  a  handsome 
/oAior,  once  the  ducal  residence  of  the  Brsgan- 
sas,  with  portraitt  of  that  femily.  A  fine 
obiwc*,  founded  by  the  Constable  WnnoAhraies 
Pcreira;  and-  in  the  vidnity,  die  Coutada,  or 
ducal  forests,  five  leaguea  in  drcumference, 
andwalledin.  This  was  also  die  seat  of  die* 
military  order  of  that  name^  founded  in  1818. 
From  this  dty,  OU^ettam  may  be 
lo^ooo  inhahitanta.  An  'rrrpiwlan' 
frontier  town,  commnnicatii«  with  Badsjoa  by 
agoodrood. 


■T^ 


^r>- 


^VK-T"  'i.%yy.n|«    »■■!■  I     >^  I  I     ^  ».  t    ■■     ■*<■ 


\ 


Edinl)Tir^  Pul 


I 


INDEX. 


oHpfccti  MMfwy  Nranwl  to  w 


AlMiiii%882 
Almites,  687 
Agricultural  zzzIt* 
Aguilar,  806 
Aguitinft  (rat)»  Sii 
Ai]i8«,625 
Alar  del  Rey,  86S 
Almyor,  8C5 
Albafer%  Ukb,  492 
AlbiiMra,888 
Aloda,476 
AloiOi    de    iM 

211 
AloiOi  de  Qwidaln,  189 
Alctli  (de  Henlne),  1 
Aloeli  la  Beel,  188 
Akantara  and  Mdga^  89 
Alooba^a,  647 
Jdoojf  6 
Aleira,866 
Alemqaer,  648 
AlfoiiM)  tlie  Leaned  (letX 

212 
Algedrasy  98 
Albania,  188 
AlbamVra,173 
AlheDdin,  187 
Alieaiito,8 
A^uberrota,  647 
Ahnaden,  18 
Almagro^  686 
Almanea,  866 ;  (rat)  6 
Almeida,  868 
Almeria,  14 
Almodorar,  871 
Alphoniiiie  tabke  (aitroB. 

work),  8 
AIpi^arraR,  202 
A]Miiiia,247 


Abola,86 
Amandi,  881 
Amontinado,  zIt. 
Andaliuia,  18 
Andorra  Vallej,  89 
Amgon,  Izziz.,  18 
Am^uei,  20 
AraUdona,  184, 189 
Ardbttectnra^  Iz. 
Arabiteota,      celebrated 

8panl8b,lzT. 
Arabitectoral  terma,  IzfL 
ArabiTee  kflpt  at  EUmaii- 

caa ;  $m  ValladQUd,  498 
Arana  (Arenya),  88 
Aigaiida,264 
AigdAa-euMner,  82 
Araeotonai  nBineral  apring, 

ArmB,  fTnaniBbi  oiL 

AiTisafa,121 

Anoyo  del  Paarao^  89 

Ait4,868 

Anilla,421 

Aatorga,128 

Aitiirla%24 

AndAJar,  110 

Anteqnera,  184 

Anto-de^l      (YalladoUd), 

498 
Aftiro,660 
ATerroea  (biitbplao^  Oor- 

d<nra),  118 
ATiia,  28  ;  (ret),  248 
ATilea,884 
Aj[,89 

Ayamonte^  108 
Axemoor,  421 
Amalfaraohe^  418 
Asooita,86 


AxpeitK86 
120 


4 
I 


B 
Badidoi,688 

Baeiia,  188 
Baleario  Ulaiid^  841 
Barbeatra,  81 
Barbaatro^  624 
BaraaloD%  81, 41 
Baaeaia,84 
Baecjve  Phyrinoii,  68 
Batalba,647 
Batataa,zL 

Batoeoaa,  La%  867 

BbaUo^eiz. 

BayoiiD^  248 

B^666 

BeUegaide  f ort^  88 

BeUiniig»81 

Belhrer,41 

Beimel,  686 

Bembibra^  124 

B«bAo4,644 

Benamfijl,  188 

Beaafeute,  886 

B«nloarid»476 

BflNBger,  OoQBt  BaysMMid, 

iT^42 
Beingiiete    wlndowib  •>* 

am^oC  4 
Bemmdei,   birtbnlaee   ci, 

180 

126 
,187 
BiaRiti,244 
Bible,     My^    Iditte 

(OoaplvtaMiaa),  8 


^58 


IMDKZ. 


BidiMOft  (rhrer),  246 

BUUo»  68, 66 

fiUek  Prince  (rat),  64 

BoUdfll^  806 

Bom  Jetiif,  658 

Bonanxa,  878 

Borriach  Tow«r,  87 

B<Mort,40 

Botany,  zzzL 

Boaloa,  88 

Braga,  658 

Braganza,  564 

Bridge  at  Bonda,  164 

Boll-flghti,  xawL 

Buonaparte   (raib.)»    851, 

496 
Bmgaaot,  492         ^ 
Bnxgoe,  68 


Cabn,168 
Gloeni,  88 
Cacbnoba,  zdL 
Gadii,  91 
Oagotf  (raoe),  829 
Oalahorra,  68 
Oaldaa  de  Montbaj,  88 
CUdai  da  Rainha,  646 
Oaldaa  de  Beji,  607 
Caldetaa,  86 
CamplUoa,  164 
Oamprodon,  40 
Oanida,zz. 
Canftanc,  624 
Cangaa,  888 
OaniUo,  89 
Cape  Finifterra^  149 
Cape  St  Yinoent,  149 
Carcagente,  255,  472 
CariAena,  476 
Cannona,  871 
Oarpio,  El,  866 
Oarraoedo^  289 
Cartagena,  108 

Do.,  teeohartiSuingp.  5 
Oatalnfia,  106 
Carteya,  169 
Carti^a  (La)  Bingoa,  85 
Cartt^a,  the  (Jerai),  214 
Oaia  Blanoa,  110 
OaaaTma,94 
Oaatagnettea,  xdL 
OaateUon,  476 
OnrtUe  (new  and  oldX  106 


OattUian  language^  liL 

Cattillo,491 

OasteJon,64 

Oea,  654 

Ceramic  woric,  IxzziT. 

Cerda  Bridge,  89 

Cenrantea '  birthplaoe  (Al- 

caU),    4;    (wf.),    44; 

when    he    wrote    Don 

Quixotet  110;  hia  houae 

at  Yalladolid,  499 
Ceapidea  (birthplace  Cor- 

doTa),  118 
Oeatona,  66 
CSiariea  I.  (rat),  868 
Chariea  Y.  at  Bareelona,  48 
Chariet  Y.,  aoene  of  hit 

death    at    Ynate,    90; 

(n&.),  862,  498 
Chefa%  664 
Chiclana,94 
Chinchilla,  828 
CM,poem,liiL 
Cid,  the  lock  of;  at  Borgoa, 

81 ;  birthpkoe,  82 
CIgan    and  dgaratte^    o. 

ct 
antra,  542 
Cinxa,  828 
Ciudadela,  856 
Ciudad  Seal,  18,  686 
Ciadad  Bodrigo,  857 
Climate  xzriiL 
Coimbn,  646,  648 
Coina.  dU. 
Collioura,  82 
Colnmbna,    honae    whera 

he  died  at   YaDadolid, 

498 
Complntnm  of  Bomana,  1 
Oondeixa,648 
Con^iera  (island  ol),  846 
Cono,  882 
Cordona,  41 
C6TdoTa,  110 
Coria,90 
Ooni,zlii. 

Oortea,  Heman  (rat),  416 
Conicedo  (Lake),  289 
ConiAa,122 
Coatumes,  za 
Cotton,  zlL 
Coradonga,  882 
Caenca,  263 
Cnera  del  Qato^  164 


BaggwedL 

Dances,  zd. 

Daroca,  476 

Datea,  12 

Dera,  160 

Diligences,  zlL 

Don  Qnixote ;  $m  Qnizola 

Donane  88  ;  atat,  89 

Donro,  paasage  of  the  hj 

Wellington,  660 
Drama,  Spanish,  zflliL 

Dnnnge  86 
Dntiea,  chr. 


ElBodon,868 

ElCarpiellO 

Slohe,  10,  472 

E10rao,492 

Bine  82 

BlTae687 

Blfoybar,  66 

En  Camp,  89 

Bicaldae89 

BMado,40 

EBcorial,128 

Bspartero's  raaideaee  64 
Brtepona,  161 
Eitralle  aaeentofthe 

664 
Brtramadnn,  144 
Bqpinoaede  240 
Brora,  564 
Bzohange  oriiL 
B7bar,66 

Fandange  zoiL 

Fane  z^ 
Fdipe  (San),  266 
Ftedinand    and     Isabella 

(borial-place),  197 
Ftenan,  Knnee  ^^ 
Fterol,128 
FoatifaJe  IkzxtL 
Fee  421 
Fignene  88 
Finance  S^aniah,  chr. 
Finistera,  Gape  149 
Fiahing,  zdz. 
Foiz,89 
I  Fonda  del  FenoOMril»  475 


niDiz. 


559 


'iji*^ 


^r**^ 


j 


I 


_4 


»  *.  * 


^^■■^  » 


•^  • 


9onD0nters    (Idaiid    of), 

866 
Fos,  St  JoVo  del,  662 
Faeogirola,  ^161 
Faeiimayor,.64 
Fnente  de  PiadriL  806 
Faentenmbia,  244 
FaentM  de  OSoro,  868 
Fundi,  Spanieh,  dT. 

a 

Qaleras,  xir. 

ChdicU,  146 

Omrdeni,  zzziiL 

Oftadn,  163 

Oaiifei,668 

Oanndnl,  160 

Qeneralife,  108 

<;toogn,ph7  of  Spain,  six. 

Geology,  zxL 

Oerona,  84 

Gibnlttf,    140;     Stnitis 

160 
Oiian,  160 
GU  BlM  (ret),  881 
GisUin,  626 
Glaa»>p*inten,  IxriL 
GloBsaiy,  Ut. 
Golden  Fleece  (knights  of), 

(ref.)  48 
Qongon   (birthplaoe   Gor^ 

doya),  118 
Gothic  early  lemaina,  IzU. ; 

later,  bdlL 
Gothic  kings,  ilTiiL 
Gradefes,  241 
Gneco-Boman  aroliiteekare, 

IxiT. 
Grammar,  liiL 
Granada,  161;    Prefinoe, 

208 
Grai^Ja,  La,  200 
Gran61lers,  88 
Grao,]Sl,402 
Graxalema,  216 
Guadali^ara,  262 
Guadalete,  battle  of  th^ 

212 
Gnimarens,  662 
Gnimaraens,  664 
Goiiando^    San   Geronimo 

(ATila),  oon?en^  20 
Oons,  ciU. 


Haga,627 

Hamiloar,  foimdsr  of  Bai^ 

oelona,  42 
Haranna  dgais,  oL 
Health  statlstks,  sdx. 
Hellin,828 
Hensres  river,  1 
Hendaye,  246 
Herbaries,  zzziiL 
Henera,  862 

Herrera,  Jnan  de,  btrth- 
.  plaoe  (ret),  881 
History  of  Spain,  zlTiL 
Holy  Week,  IzzzfiiL 
Hospltalet,  80 
Hotels,  hints,  zHiL 
HnelTS,  108 
Hnelgas,  oonTsnt,  84 
HnerU  of  Valeqda,  478 
Hnesca,81 
Hnesoa,  626 
Hunting,  zdz. 


Ignatius  Loyola's  birthplaoe 

at  Axpeltia,  66 
Invalids,  hints,  zziz. 
Irrigation,  zlL 
Irring,  W.  (ret),  44 
Iron,  246 
Isabella,  Qneen  (ref.),  406, 

408 
IsabeUaof  Partogal'stomb^ 

86 


LaOuTao4,102 

Lago(Bl),  240 

Lagrimas  wins^  zhl 

Langreo,  160 

Lsnguage,liL 

Laijaron,202 

Laraoh^421 

Lanan,622 

La  Boca,  98 

Lead-ore  worka^  0 

Leiria,648 

Leon,  216,  218 

Lerlda,  81,  610 

Letter^  zr. 

Ubrary  of  the  BMorial,  180 

lima,  Ponte  de^  668 

Linares,  110 

Lisbon,  686,  687 

literature,  liz. 

Llaborse,40 

Llorasa,881 

Lodgings  (hints),  ZfUL 

Logrolko,  64,260 

Loja,  166 

Lora  del  Rio,  871 

Lotteries,  zoriiL 

Lope  de  Bneda,  dramatis^ 

zdr. 
Lncar,  San,  874 
Lncan  (birthplaoeOotdofi). 

118 
Looena,  168 
L«igo^l24 
Lm,  St  Jean  da.  246 


Jaoa,626 

Jaen,161 

Jan^  Orasy  (ref.),  406 

JatiTa,  266,  472 

Jeres,210 

Jerica,  478 

Jimena,  160 

JoTellanos,  bon  at  GQon, 

160 
Jnan  IL's  tomb,  86 


Kings  of  Spain,  zliz. 


Madrid,  242,  266 

Madrigal,  Alfonso  d^  20 

Mafra,648 

Mahon,  866 

Mairena,160 

MaiM,zzzriL 

Malaga,  806 ;  nine,  zlri. 

MaDe-poste,  ziL 

Mallorea  (Island),  846 

Mancha,La,  686 

Mantilla,  zo. 

Mansanilla,     874;     wiM^ 

zhL 
Maps,zzL 
Masiion,87 
Maragatsris»  240 


560 


IMDBX. 


Utngfiitm  (race),  216 
HarbUU,  161 
Marehena,  160 
ManeiUfli,  256 
Martoren,478 
MataM,87 
Matoiliihoe,  552 
Maiireia»  82 
Maurice,  Bishop,  tomb  of, 

In  Bnigoa,  71 
Manianarea,  110 
ICayor  (Island),  878 
Measures  and  Weights,  ex. 
Medini  del  Campo,  248 
Mena,  de,  Jnan  (birthplaoe 

Oordoya),  118 
Me^jibar,  110 
Menor  (Island),  878 
Menoroa  (Island),  854 
Meqninex,  421 
Mereadal,  855 
Merens,  89 
Merida,685 

Minorca  (see  Menoroa),  854 
Miranda  de  Bbro,  247        ' 
Mieres,  881 
Mineral  Springs,  xzx. 
Mines,  xzT. 
Montbnj  Baths,  56 
Monaoor,  858 
Monastie  Orders,  IL 
Monej,    cri;  hints,  ciz.; 

taUes,cTii. 
Monforte  de  Rio  Lihre,  554 
Mongat,  87 
Monistrol,  66 
Montalegre  Monastery,  87 
Montblanoh,  610 
Montemor,  584 
MontUla,  122,  806 ;  win^ 

ZlTlL 

Montolegre,  554 
Montpensier,  Bake  of  (r«f .) 

872 
Montsenj,  88 
Monserrat  Monasterj,  56 
Monson,  81,  862 
Moore,  GenerU  (reflk),  124, 

865 
Moorish  arohiteetnre,  Izir. 
Moorish  Khalifl,  zliz. 
Monies,  de,  A.  (birthplaoe 

Oordora),  118 
Morales,  Izxii ;  pletaras  aft 

Oaoeres,  ete.,  89 


Moroeoo,  421 

Moron,  872 

Moeoatel,  zItL 

Motril,  167 

Monntains,  zzir. 

Mount  Lanonz,  40 

Monnt  Pedronz,  40 

Monnt  Rialp^  89 

Mnla  Hacen,  202,  205 

Mnrcia,820 

Morillo^  IzxtL     See  also 

Madrid  and  SoTille 
Mnrraj,  General  (rel),854 
Mnrviedro,  401 
Mnsio,  bcDCT. 

N 
Nagera,  64 
National  Dress,  ze. 
NsTarre,  827 
Nararrete,  64 
Niebla,  874 
NoreUla,  5 
Numismatics,  oiii. 

O 

Obidos,  546 
OchagaTia,  622 
(VDonnel,  Marshal    (ret), 

420 
Olirema,  555 
OUtss,  TTTJr. 
011a,zliii 
Onteiro  Maior,  558 
Oporto,  550 
Orange^  zzziz. 
Orbigo,128 
Oranse,  865 
Orihuda,  828 
Osuna,  169 
Orar,  550 
O?iedo^880 

P 

Padioii,el,  507 

Padu],208 

Painting,  schools  of;  Izrili 

Madrid   (Vdaiques), 

IzriL 
Serine       (Murillo), 

IzzUL 
Toledo       (MonOes), 

IxzIL 
Yalendn     (BOMfm), 


Pi^i«i«%880 

Palencia,861 

Palma,  846 

Palm-trees  at  Eloh%  11 

Pamplona,  248 

Paukr  (el),  210 

Pantiooea,  528 

Pansa,  Sancho  (ret),  685 

Passports,  xir. 

Paredea  de  Nava,  218 

Pasture,  zlL 

Patema,211 

Pedro  Abad,  110 

Pelayo,  tomb  ci,  882 

PelUscola,  475 

Peipignan,  88 

Perri£e,648 

Pemusa,880 

Perthuls,88 

PhUip  IL  (reft .)  •«  BMorial, 

129,  209,  210,  498,  eta 
Pioton,  General  (ret),  858 
Pio  de  Tabe^  89 
Pie  St  Barth4l4mx,  89 
PiisiTa,806 
Platereeque     arehlteeturs^ 

ijdU. 
Flasenda,90 
Pombal,546 
Ptanpey  (lef.),  64 
Ponferrada,  240 
Population,  zxL 
Ponteredra,  507 
Porcelain,  IzzzIL 
Port!,  40 
Portalegrsb  587 
Porto,  550 
PortfWine  stores,  552 
Port  Vendres,  82 
Portugal,  529 ;  ooast,  149 
Posada  de  la  Posts,  874 
PoetK>flloe,  ZT. 
Postage  stamps,  zri. 
Pottery,  IzzzIL 
Printing  (first  introdueed 

at  Barcelona,  1471),  48 
Pronuneiation,  brlL 
Profinces,  zz. 
Puente  del  DUUo^  478 
Puerto  Mano,  585 
Puerto  de  Sta.  Maria,  101 
Puerto  Beal,  102 
Pnyoerda,  89 
Pyrenees  Orientalei,  40 
Pyimeei^  ^aalah,  18 


INDEX. 


561 


QaieksilTer  miiiM  aft  AI- 

mAdciiy  18 
QaintUian  (Uiihplaoe),  68 
Quixote,  Don  (rafik),  4,  29, 

110»  168,  686 


BaawayiyZiL 

Baisins,  zL  ;  Alicante,  9 

Bamon  Lnll  (rel),  860 

Redondttla,  607 

Bdnosa,  862 

Bens,  600 

Barenton  Phaa,  210 

Bibadeaalla,  881 

Bibalte  (pakter),  IzzL,  ete. 

Bibera  ^painter^  IzzL,  «to. 

Bic^zL 

Biding  (hinte),  ziii 

Biera  (rirer),  846 

BipoUo,40 

BiTadATia,  607 

BiTadeo,884 

BiTers,  zx. 

Boberti,  Darid  (nt),  218 

Bobla,880 

Boda,160 

Bodrigo,  CSndad,  867 

Boman  ramains,  Ldi. 

Boncal,  628 

Bonda,168 

Bonoesyallfli,  622 

Bote,  878 


S 

8alwdeU,82 

Saffh>n,zliiL 

Sagnntam,  401 

8ahagan,218 

St  Ignatiiia  (LoyoU),  82 

St  Jean  de  Lux,  246 

St  JoXo  de  Foi,  662 

Salamanca  (Leon),  866 

Salamanca,  battle  of;  860 

Salazar,  622 

Salden,80 

Sally,  421 

Sandoval,  241 

San  FeUce  de  OanoTellai, 

88 
San  Juan  de  Teira,  40 


Sanhioar,  102 

San  Loear,  108,  874  • 

San    Pedro    de    Hontea, 

280 
San  Boman,  241 
SanBoqne,  161 
San  Sebaftian,  246. 
Sante  ¥6, 166,  208 
Santiago,  864 
Santiago  de  Peftalfa,  288 
Santaader  (ABtuias),  861 
Santarem,  687 
Santillana,  881 
Santoario  de  San  Miguel 

del  Fay,  88 
Sari&ena  atetion,  81 
Sonlptona,  Izzz. 
Soaljpioi%  prindpal,  IzzzL 
Sea-bathings  zxz. 
Sebastian,  San,  246 
Segorbe^  478 
SegoTia,868 
Se]gaa,81 
Seneca    (Urthplaoe    Oor- 

dova),  118 
SepnlTeda  (birthplaoe  Oor- 

doT^,  118 
Sena  de  Baasaoo»  660 
Sertorioos  {ntX  64 
Se?ille^871 
Sheep,  zliL 
Sheny,  zUt. 
Sidon  (andent),  94 
Sien»  Nevada,  201 
Silk,zlL 

Silla  del  Moio,  196 
Simanoaa,  496 
Signensa,  260 
Smith  (Adam),  (lef.),  97 
SoUer,  868 
Solsona,41 
Soria,268 
Sot  de  Boma,  208 
Spagndletto  (painter),  9m 

Bibera,  bdi!,  etc 
Spanish  language^  lit 
Springs,  nxi. 
Sport,  zoriit 

Stained  windows  at  Bar- 
celona, 49 
Stanhope,  Earl  (ret),  864 
Steameia,  ziT. 
Steamship  (first)  at  Baiee- 

lona,  AJ).  1648,  48 
Steely  Spanish,  dL 

2o 


Streeto  first  pared  at  Oair- 

doTa,119 
Sogar-cane^  zL 
8irafd%  dL 


Tangier,  417 

Tftranoon,  264 

Tardienta,  81 

Tarifa,  98,  169 

Taiiib,dT. 

TUngona,424 

Ttfrasa,  82 

Tsiihish  (andent),  96 

l^ba,  164,  806 

Telegraph,  zriL 

Teresa,  Sta.  de,  29 

Terra  ootta,  IzzziL 

Teniel,477 

Tetoan,  419 

Theatres,  »«<<<- 

Thermometer,  zzz. 

Thomar,  646 

Titian  (painter),  i«f.,  278 

TobaccQ-mannfactars  (All* 

cante),  8 
Tobacco,  c. 
Tbcon  station,  166 
Tbledo,480 
Toledo  blades,  di. 
Tolosa,  66,  247 
Tomb  at   Qerona  (Onmt 

Bamon*s),  86 
TVndesillaa,  496 
Toio,494 

Toro,  Mofales  de,  496 
Torre  de  Belem,  644 
ToiTesyedras,644 
TortDsa,474 
Tonloiise,  89 
Trafslgar,  94  ;  Gape,  160 
TVarelUii^  QdnfB),  iz. 
TreTeles,202 
Ttty,607 


nrgel,41 
Urn  at  Aleak,  8 
Utrera,872 
Ussat»  89 


562 


INDKX. 


Valearios,  522 

ValdepefUt,  110 

Valencm,  558 

Valencia  (kingdom  of),  490 ; 
(capital),  478 

Valenza,  508 

Valladolid,  498,  406 « 

ValUigo,  682 

Valldemosa,  358 

Vallecas,  254 

Yall^  88 

Valparaiso,  hermitages,  1 21 

Valsain,  palace  of,  200 

Vedras,  Torres,  544 

Vejer,  04 

Velazqnes,  IzzriL ;  see  also 
Madrid,  etc;  father-in- 
law,  pictures  by,  160 

Velez  de  Benadulla,  1^ 

Velez  Malaga,  166 

Venasque,  523 

Vendrell,  474 

Venta,  04 

Venta  de  G&rdenas,  110  • 

Venta  de  Balkos,  248 

Vergara,  65 

Vianna,  554 

Vicente,  San,  882 

Vich,  40 


Vioosa  Villa,  555 
Vierzo  (the),  237 
Vigo,  506,  508 
Vilassar,  87 
Villafranca,  537 
"^nilafhoioa     del     Vioixo^ 

124 
Villafranca  dels  Panades^ 

474 
Vfllalar,  405 
Villalba,200 
Villanoya  da  ChOa,  550 
ViUanneTa,  81 
Villarana,  473 
ViUavidosa,  881 
Villareal,64 
Villarcijo,  254 
^miegas  tomh^  Bnrgos,  76 
^^m]ena,5 
Vimeii^    battlefield      of, 

548 
Vinalap6,  rirer,  5 
VinaroK,474 
Vines,  zzxriiL 
Vitoria,  247 
Vocabulary,  IyIL 


-       W 

Weights,  ozli 


Wellington,  Dnke  of;  estate, 

203  (ret),  857, 860,  400, 

548,  548,  550 
Wine,  zlir.;  CHiaooll,  66; 

Montilla, :  122 ;    Oellan 

of  Jerss,  218 
Wine,  Port,  stores,  662 
Working-classes  Church  of 

Sta.    Maria,  Barcelona, 

boUt  by,  40 


Ximenes,  CSardinal,  2,  8 


Tuste,  OmTent,  00 
YTiii,  Island  of,  855 


Z 

Zahara,878 

Zamora,  404 

Zaragoza,  500 

Zaranz,  65 

Zamosa,  65 

Zuibaraa  (painter),  band 


FrmUdfy^  ft  R.  Cuune.  Bdimhtitk, 


Jl 


MONEY  TABLE  IX)B  BEADY  BBOEOND^U. 


TnwMOL     |porroGuns.| 

SpAMtnL        1 

^ 

Cent- 
«3 

Mo- 
nk. 

• 

Bkii- 
dot. 

RmJi. 

Ctnt- 

1 

i 

$ 

CM|ti 

•  • 

•  • 

33 

0 

50 

i\ 

ti 

•  • 

a7 

•  • 

45 

• 

1 

•  • 

3i 

s 

•  • 

•  • 
I 

8 

•  • 

•  • 

•  • 

90 

8 

4 

•  • 

•  • 

• 

10 

10 

30 

I 

35 

•  • 

335 

5 

•  • 

i 

as 

I 

48 

<i) 

350 

5 

50 

3 

38 

I 

61 

•  • 

370 

6 

•  • 

3. 

30 

I 
3 

88 
«5 

•  • 

•  • 

151   :: 

7 
8 

•  • 

•  • 

ii 

35 
40 

3 

4a 

•  •. ' 

40s   .. 

9 

•  % 

I0| 

45 

2 

6q 

•  • 

44$  10 

10 

•  • 

3 

li 

SO 

% 

97 

® 

500 

•  • 

U 

'%' 

3 

4 

^  ^ 

56 

4 

4 

•  • 

668 

•    • 

18 

•  • 

3 

t ' 

76 

5 

39 

•  • 

890 

0 

20 

•  • 

4 

4 

I 

1 

6 

3 

0 

1000 

•• 

» 

4 

4 

71 

I 

IS 

13 

6 

3 

•  • 

•• 

44 

8 

9 

3i 

s 

M 

«3 

47 

3 

335 

0 

60 

•  • 

10 

«i 

3 

S« 

a; 

94 

4 

455 

(i3> 

100 

•  • 

31 

l« 

5 

4 

MtlM 


Tlii,Mld4»Ml 


This  preservation  photocopy  was  made  and  hand  bound  at 

BookLab,  Inc.,  in  compliance  with  copyright  law. 

The  paper  is  Weyerhaeuser  Cougar  Opaque 

Natural,  which  exceeds  ANSI 

Standard  Z39.48-1984. 

1993 


'52044019  043  330 


The  bonower  must  return  this  item  on  or  befcm 
the  last  date  stamped  below.  If  another  user 
places  a  recall  for  this  item,  the  borrower  will 
be  notified  of  the  need  for  an  eaiiier  return. 

Non-receipt  of  overdue  notices  does  not  exempt 

the  borrower  from  overdue  fines. 

Harvard  College  Widener  Librarr         I 
Cambridge,  MA  02138        617-495-2413 


I 


Please  handle  with  care. 

Thank  you  for  helping  to  preserve 
'     s  at  Harvard.