The west of Scotland in history : being brief notes concerning events, family traditions, topography, and institutions

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1

I V

THE

WEST OF SCOTLAND IN HISTORY:

BEING

BRIEF NOTES

CONCERNING

Events^ Family Traditions^ Topography^ and

Institutions.

BY

JOSEPH IRVING,

AiUhar of " The History of Dumbartomhire," •* Annals of our Time,**

GLASGOW:

ROBERT FORRESTER, i ROYAL EXCHANGE SQUARE.

1885.

^rve Hundred Copies printed^ of which this is No,..

TO

JAMES H. STODDART, Esq.,

THESE BRIEF SKETCHES IN WEST COUNTRY HISTORY

ARE

RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED.

J. L

PREFACE.

Prefatory matter, or " Fore-words," as now sometimes used by scholars, better
befits the langunge of cxptaiuttion than apology. Oer two centuries since a
famous Episcopal Puritan, Archbishop Tillotson by designation, wrote of his
once popular Sermons, " I shall neither trouble the reader, nor myself, with any
apology for publishing of these Sermons, for if they be in any measure truly
serviceable to the end for which they are designed, I do not see what apology
is necessary; and if they be not so, I am sure none can be sufficient"
Explanation in such a case may be made in terms equally brief. The slight
desultory Sketches making up the following pages have for the most part already
appeared in print, as prepared in the hurrj- of journalistic work for publicatioD
in the " Glasgow Herald," daily or weekly, and " Evening Times." The writer
is not unconscious that in their imperfect form, and for which he is alone
responsible, the Sketches only touch the edge of the subject — the mere hem
of what is historical, and can in no sense be considered exhaustive. A
certain picture. Goldsmith wrote, would have been better had the artist
taken more pains. So of these Sketches ; more and better may follow, should
what is written meet with any moderate acceptance of public favour. Reference
having occasion to be made from lime to time in the articles as originally
written to events of a passing or ephemeral nature, these in the following pages
have been either omitted altogether, or explained, it is hoped with sufficient
fulness, by the use of dates mthin brackets. Being rather Notes on History
than History itself, the writer did not at first contemplate publication in a
separate form, and e\en now only yields to the frequently expressed wish of
a few friends that the Sketches might be placed in a handier and more permanent
fonn than could be secured through their appearance in any newspaper of
the day, however popular and widely circulated.

J. IRVING.

lIiLLiiKAD House, near Paislbv,
St. James's Day,

CONTENTS.

PAGB

Queen Mary and Darnley in Glasgow, i

- Corehouse and the Cranstouns, lO

Battle of Langside, i6

auchinleck and the boswells, 23

The Mures of Caldwell, 29

John Glassford of Dougalstone, 36

CaTHCART AND ITS EARLS, 43

The Steuarts of Coltness and Allanton, s^

A Daughter of the House of Coltness, 54

Andrew Stuart of Torrance and Castlemilk, 59

The Lollards of Kyle, 65

The Earl of Eglinton Shot by a Poacher, 72

V^Carnwath and the Lockharts of Lee, 77

/ Dalrympls and the Stairs, 81

The Master of Stair and Glencoe, 85

Kelburne, Hawkhead, and Earls of Glasgow, 91

DUNDONALD AND ITS EARLS, 98

coilsfield and the montgomeries, i03

The Earldom of Carrick, 109

The Lockharts of Milton-Lockhart, 113

Ardgowan : THE Stewarts and Shaw-Stewarts, 119

POLLOK AND THE MAXWELLS, 1 25

Sir Thomas Munro, K.C.B., 133

John Knox and the Abbot of Crossraguel at Maybole, ... 140

The Story of Glenfruin, 146

V The Great Douglas Cause, 161

Montrose Family Descent and Possessions, 167

Montrose Peerage Contest, 176

Cumbernauld House and the Flemings, 181

CONTENTS.

Cumbernauld House and the Elphinstones iB6

Glasgow Burgh Records, igi

Glasgow Cmamqer of Commerce, 206

Old Glasgow Houses, 213

A Glasgow Cathedral Relic, 217

The Spreulls of Glasgow, 221

Andrew Melville in Glasgow, 223

Lord Provost Patrick Colquhoun, LL.D,, 219

Sheriff Alison, 332

Graham of the Mint, 238

General Roy of Carluke, 242

Burns and "Highland Marv," 250

Kilmarnock, 256

St. Michael's, Dumfries, 260

Dumfries Rood Fair 265

Renfrewshire Records, 268

The Renfrewshire Witches 278

Paisley Adbey 284

Paisley Grammar School, 289

Alexander Wilson, Ornithologist, 293

Motherwell and Cunningham, 302

The Barns of Ayr, 306

Rambles in Galloway, 309

The Herries Peerage, ■ ■ ■ ■ 31S

A Galloway Character 320

V Drumlanrig and the Douglases 324

The Scotts of Buccleuch, 329 ,

St. Columba, 33S 1

Cunningham, 339

Leadhills and Wanlock 343

The Fullabtons of Fullarton, &c,. 34? 1

iNVEkKip to West Kilbride, 353 J

THE WEST COUNTRY

IN HISTORY.

QUEEN MARY AND DARNLEY IN GLASGOW.

Queen Marv, beautiful, accomplished, and rich also in gracious, persuasive ways,
was not more remarkable among Sovereigns of her own day than for the romance
which has ever since surrounded the story of her life, from its chequered opening to
that tragic close in the halls of her ancestors at Fotheringay. Partly through her
connection with foreign Courts, and partly in spite of that connection, Mary's
position as wife of the Dauphin, as Dowager of France, as Queen of Scotland, and
as next in succession to her cousin Elizabeth on the English throne — all tended,
whether consciously or unconsciously, to make her the centre round which were
devised that series of cunning plots and counterplots which disturbed the peace
of other nations than Scotland, and ultimately led to serve as excuses for her long,
dreary imprisonment, for her unconstitutional trial, and for her cruel execution.
"False witnesses did rise up; they laid to my charge things that I knew not," is
the motto selected from the painful experience of the Psalmist by the most
imaginative of modem painters for his portrait of the unhappy Sovereign, fitted
more for adorning the gay Court of Bourbon than for controlling or even modera-
ting the pretensions of her own rapacious nobles in the North. Queen Mary
may have known innocence; peace but seldom. Cradled amid the storms of the
Reformation, she was a prisoner even in infancy, and before she could speak must
have been often alarmed by the contentions of violent, unprincipled men. The

necessity of protecting her youthful person lirom seizure led to her first appearance
in the West, The Protector Somerset, failing to follow up his success gained on
the field of Pinkie in September, 1547, the Queen-Mother took advantage of the
temporary quietness which succeeded that engagement to prepare for removing
Mary to the French Court, where, it was thought, she would be safe from the .
machinations of England, and the no less dangerous factions which existed in
her own country. With this object the young Queen was removed with her mimic
Court from her retreat in the monastery of Inchmahome, where the remains of
her child garden may yet be traced, and placed in Dumbarton Castle to await the
arrival of a French fleet in the Clyde, An entry in the Exchequer Record (Register
House) fixes the removal as on the last day of February, 1548, when the Queen
was about three months over six yeara of age. Here she would appear
to have sickened of small-pox, without, however, having her beauty impaired —
an experience which enabled Mary twenty years afterwards to bestow sympathy
with her sister of England on casting off a complaint which in these days was little
short of a national scourge. It was not till the first week in August that the Queen
could safely embark with her "Four Maries" and other attendants. The little
Lady was observed to shed tears after she had received the malerna! blessing and
farewell kiss of the only parent she had ever known; but, trained even thus early
in the regal science of self-control, she offered no resistance, but permitted herself
to be carried on board the galley of the King of France, which had been fitted up
and sent expressly for her accommodation by the fatlier of her future husband.
Suspicious of hostile ships at sea, the Admiral in charge (Villegaignon) selected
a circuitous course to steer by, so that it was six days before Brest was made, when
the Queen commenced her progress to the palace of St, Germain, where she was joy-
fully received by the French monarch, and a household appointed for her at the
public expense. ^Vith Mary's residence in France, and her training at the Court of
the Guises, little mention need be made here, beyond the brief facts that she married
the Dauphin at sixteen {1558), was Queen of France for sixteen months, and a
widow at eighteen. Never entirely trusted by the Guises, and anxious at the same

Q UEEN MAR Y AND DARNLE Y JN GLASGO IV. 3

time about affairs in Scotland, Queen Mary left France to land at Leith, 19th August,
1561. Hunting and otlier graver duties frequently led her afterwards to the
West. Early in July, r563, the Royal Household Book shows her to have been
in Glasgow about a fortnight, during which time she visited her kiosman, I^rd
Claud Hamilton, at Paisley Abbey, and other members of the family at Hamilton.
She next passed to Dumbarton and Rossdhu, and on the 19th set out for Inverary
on a visit to her half-sister, the Countess of Argyll, daughter of James V., by
Elizabeth, daughter of John Lord Carraichael. This Lady would not appear to
have been blessed with the sweetest of tempers, inasmuch as her domestic troubles
were- reported to have given the Queen an ojiportunity for requesting the good
offices of John Knox. The story is told in " Calderwood," voL ii., p. 5. In this year
of her visit, at the third conference between Queen Mary and Knox, Her Majesty
requested him again to use his good offices on behalf of her sister, the Lady
Argyll, who, she confessed, was not so circumspect in everything as she could
wish; "yet," she added, "her husband failelh in many things." "I brought them to
concord," said Knox, "that her friends were fully content; and she promised
before them she should never complain to any creature, till I should first be made
acquainted with the quarrel, either out of her own mouth, or by an assured
messenger." "Well," said the Queen, "it ta worse than you believe. Do this
much for my sake, as once again to reconcile tliem, and if she behave not herself
as becometh, she shall find no favour of me; but in no case let my Lord know that
I employed you." Knox, in consequence, WTote to the Earl on the Countess'
behalf, exhorting him to bear with the imperfections of his wife, seeing that he was
not able to convince her of any crime since the last reconciliation, but his letter
was not well received.

In this same year of grace, 1563, Queen Mary began to manifest increased
feelings of respect for Matthew Earl of Lennox, then living under the protection
of England with his Countess Margaret, daughter of Margaret Tudor, mother oi
James v., by her second marriage with the Earl of Angus. Their son, Henry
Lord Damley, had thus a common ancestry with thCQueen, and might in certain

TBE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

contingencies be looked upon as a rival in the English succession. Marriage
negotiations, which had been commenced almost upon the death of the Dauphin,
were carried on with the most fruitless result till the summer of 1565, when the
Queen put an end to all further suspense by announcing that she had resolved to
unite herself in marriage with her cousin, Henry Lord Darnley. Damley, a lusty,
well-made young fellow, but totally devoid of judgment or dignity, met the Queen
for the first time at Wemyss Castle, Fifeshire, i6th February, 1564. He was then
19 years of age, and the Queen in her 33rd year. The tradition of a courtship and
residence at Cruikston Castle, Renfrewshire, rests on no foundation worth
examining. The fabric would appear to have been even then in ruins, while all
the letters known to exist from the Earl and Countess of that date are dated from
Houston or Inchinnan. {See D. Semple's "Tree of Crocston," 1876.) The ill-
starred marriage between Mary and Damley was solemnised in the chapel of
Holyrood House on the morning of agth July, 1565. Up to this date Damley
had signed simply as "Lord Henry Darnlev," as King Henry of Scotland he
afterwards signed "Henry R." In conformity with other high honours bestowed
upon him at marriage, a special seal was engraved for his use, bearing the familiar
Scottish lion surmounted by a crown, and the less known initials, recalling the
fact now not generally remembered that for a few months a Henrj- bore the title
of King in Scotland. A coinage also was issued bearing the joint names of Mary
and Damley; but too much suspicion can hardly be entertained regarding what is
known as the "Cruikston Dollar," or "Mary Ryall." The coin, well enough known
to collectors, bears, not a yew-tree, either of Cruikston or elsewhere, but a palm-
tree, as may be ascertained from the records of Privy Council authorising its issue,
a2nd December, 1565. Immediately after her marriage, Mary took active steps
to break up the faction headed by her natural brother the Earl of Murray, which
had manifested great opposition (0 the match, and was generally believed to look
to the English Court for direction and support Daraley for a time aided her
in this attempt, but with characteristic folly and ingratitude he afterwards allied
himself with her opponents, and finally ahenated all affection the Queen may ever

QUEEN MARY AND DARNLEY IN GLASGOW. 5

have felt for him by consenting to, if not originating, that scheme of hostility to
her government which ted to the murder of her favourite, David Rizzio. From
this period revenge dignified as far as such a passion can be dignified, and ill-
concealed by either her levity or despondency, seemed to take possession of the
mind of Mary ; nor did the birth of a Prince, which look place on the 1 gth of June
following, very seriously change the current of her thoughts. From playing false
with Mary, Damley, to secure tlie crown matrimonial, began to play false with
his fellow-conspirators. The poor misguided youth was now encompassing his own
destruction as swiftly as possible. The Queen was not likely to stop short in
extreme measures of retaliation; nor were Morton, Mailland, Lindsay, or the grim
Ruthven, the men to place themselves in the power of a fickle, soft-spoken and
lather loose-living lad. At this crisis in his history he is smitten down with disease,
brought on, it has often been said, through his own excesses, and he thereupon
resolved upon a journey to Glasgow, that he might consult physicians and be at
the same lime beyond such personal danger from the Queen's friends or foes
as he feared equally at Holyrood and Stirling. This brought the Queen to Glasgow,
where the mysterious "Casket Letters" were alleged to have been sent by her
Majesty to Bothwell — letters, whether genuine or not, which proved full of evil
consequences in her after career.

Sick in mind and body, alienated from all friends at Court he ever had, and
excluded, it is thought, at the Queen's express desire, from the ceremonies incident
to the baptism of his son. Prince James, Damley withdrew from his sullen
seclusion at Stirling on or about Christmas-Day, i;66, and arrived at Glasgow
certainly before the closing day of the year. His father, the Earl of Lennox,
would not appear to have been in the City at the time ; nor was even the Castle
open to receive the King; so that it is inferred, but only inferred, that he took
up his residence in the bumble dwelling close at hand, long after known as
Damle/s Cottage, and removed from Cathedral Square in quite recent years.
Openly disclaiming any knowledge of the " Bond " entered into at Whittinghara
by Bothwell, Archibald Douglas, Secretary Lethington, and others, for the

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

"removal" of Darnley, but in suspicious compliance with the spirit of its design,
Queen Mary left Edinburgh on the iist January, 1567, and, proceeding byway
of Callendar, reached the bedside of her sick husband in Glasgow on the
afternoon of Ihe asrd. That the design of the Queen was the rentoval of her
husband to the east country is endent enough from the circumstance that she
brought a " litter " with her for the purpose of facilitating the journey, or, aa
her defenders put it, for the purpose of making the journey less hurtful to the
invalid than it would otherwise have been. Cralgmillar was the place first
suggested, but this came to be changed to Kirk-of-Field, Edinburgh, where the
tragedy was to be consummated, and which Bothwell was at t)ie moment
preparing for the reception of the victim. Hearing that the Queen had been
speaking of him with unusual severity, Darnley sent Captain Crawford, of
Jordanhill, a trusted friend of his own, and of the Lennox family (and afterwards
Lord Provost of Glasgow) to meet Her Majesty four miles from the city, with
a message excusing himself for not waiting upon her in person. He was still
infirm, he said, and did not presume to come to her until he knew her wishes
and was assured of the removal of her displeasure. To this Mary btieily replied
that there was no medicine against fear, and that he (Darnley) need have no
fear if he did not feel himself faulty. The Queen then passed with her escort,
being joined at this point by tlie Lairds of Luss, Houstoun, and Caldwell, with
forty horse. The narrative at this point rests in a great measure on letters said
to be her own, and afterwards referred to; but for conversations between the
Queen and her sick husband in his Glasgow lodgings, much reliance came to
be placed on a deposition made by Captain Crawford before the informal
Commission at Vork in December, isfiS, when Mary was a prisoner in Bolton
Castle — a deposition, however, it may be proper to explain, not only sworn to as
accurate, but based on conversations taken down at Ihe time, and still existing
as endorsed by Cecil. Crawford reports that Darnley asked what he thought
of the Queen's taking him to Craigmillar? "They treat your Majesty," said
Crawford, " too like a prisoner. Why should you not be taken to one of your

^

1

QUEEN MARY AND DARNLEY IN GLASGOW. 7

own houses in Edinburgh?" " It struck me much the same way," answered Daraley,
"and I have fears enough; but may God judge between us, I have her promise
only to trust to, yet I have put myself in her hands, and I shall go with her
though she should murder me," (Crawford's " Deposition," State Paper Office.)
On another occasion Crawford heard Darnley say to the Queen, ■' If you promise
me on your honour to live with me as my wife, and not to leave me any more,
I will go with you to the end of the world, and care for nothing ; if not I shall
stay where 1 am." " It shall be as you have spoken," she replied, and thereupon
gave him her hand and faith. The Queen remained in Glasgow from the a3rd
to 37th January, and between these dates, mostly in the evening, four of the
eight celebrated " Casket Letters " purport to have been written by the Queen
to Bothwell. That these letters may have been obtained surreptitiously, or even
stolen from the page Ualgleish when conveying them from Edinburgh Castle to
his master Bothwell; that they were irregularly, and therefore improperly, used
in evidence against the Queen at York (and about this there cannot be much
doubt), and that they were improperly destroyed as implicating the memory of
his mother by King James after ascending the English throne— all this maybe
true, but not necessary to discuss here. It is not even necessary in a light
sketch of this kind to discuss their authenticity— whether they were written by
the Queen in French, or forged originally in Latin or Scots by Buchanan at the
instance of Murray and other Lords, whether they were ever intended for, or
sent to Bothwell at alt, or whether some of them at least were not letters from
Mary intended for her husband Darnley, and therefore removed from the region
of censure. It is sufficient that the letters, genuine or not, existed at one time,
and exercised a powerful influence in the Queen's condemnation. Buchanan
describes the casket in his " Detection " as " ane small, gilt cofer not fully ane
foot long, beying gamishit in sondry places, with the Romaine letter F under
ane Kyngly crowne (presumed to be the arms of Mary's first husband, the
Dauphin, Francis II.) quhairin were certain letters and writynges well knawin,
und by othes to be affirmit, to have been written with the quene of Scottes awne

-,. v^iaiiioiul Hridge. The caskrt, .
xli'Cd with ollur papcis by I'.olhwcll in I'Alinburjh '
III ( n \u>\\\ Millibar. 'J'husc letters, first produccil \\ i.
iu.\t'r s'jl)iiiiii(.(l to the (^iiccn lierscif or to her Coi
inly disclaimed as authentic by all concerned in heri^
rs, naturally jealous of the rights of individuals i
Irown, have generally condemned this feature in
1 Mary. Some of them, indeed, have gone the
iesired to be as assuredly convinced of her inn<
trial. The first and longest letter, from Gl
leth, as well as Mary's arch-foe, Cecil, indicattng
s Queen, for whom, perhaps, it was translated or
png evidence against their authenticity is the
stion pervading them. " Oursed be this pocky felloir^
g from Damle/s bedside), who troubleth me thus mi
' to discourse unto you but for him. He is not much
1 I thought I should have been killed with his
icle's, and yet I was set no nearer to him than in a
I by the further side of the bed." Again — " I have
;. You have heard the rest We are tied to two &
tie us from them. God forgive me, and God knit ut
t faithful couple. I am ill at ease, and glad to write n

hand to the Erie Bothwell." This casket, intercepted as mentioned above,
contained letters written from Glasgow, Stirling, Linlithgow, and the Kirk-of- Field,
a series of twelve sonnets, and two contracts of marriage. These important
documents were presumed to have been preserved by Bothwell both as pledges
of her affection and as proofs of her assent to the murder of Uamley, and also
of her own abduction at Cramond Bridge. The casket, it is further presumed,
was lodged with other papers by Bothwell in Edinburgh Castle when he brought
the Queen from Dunbar. These letters, first produced when Mary was a prisoner,
were never submitted to the Queen herself or to her Commissioners, and were
uniformly disclaimed as authentic by all concerned in her defence. Constitutional
lawyers, naturally jealous of the rights of individuals as against the power of
the Crown, have generally condemned this feature in the proceedings against
Queen Mary. Some of them, indeed, have gone the length of saying that they
only desired to be as assuredly convinced of her innocence as that she had an
unfair trial. The first and longest letter, from Glasgow, bore the initials of
Elizabeth, as well as Mary's arch-foe, Cecil, indicating that it was inspected
by the Queen, for whom, perhaps, it was translated or transcribed. The most
damaging evidence against their authenticity is the coarseness of thought and
suggestion pervading them. " Gursed be this pocky fellow (she is represented as
writing from Damley's bedside), who troubleth me thus much, for I had a pleasanter
matter to discourse unto you but for him. He is not much the worse, but he is ill
arrayed. I thought I should have been killed with his breath, for it is worse than
your uncle's, and yet I was set no nearer to him than in a chair by his bolster, and
he lieth by the further side of the bed." Again — " I have taken the worms out of
his nose. You have heard the rest We are tied to two false races. The good
year untie us from them. God forgive me, and God knit us together for ever for
the most faithful couple. I am ill at ease, and glad to write you when other folks
be asleep, seeing that I cannot do as they do, according to my desire, that is
between your arms, my dear life, who I beseech God to preser^'e from all ill and
send you good rest, as I go to seek mine, till to-morrow in the morning." Such

QUEEN MARY AND DARNLEY IN GLASGOW. 9

" Night Thoughts" in Gla^ow came to an end on the ayth January, when Darnley
was conveyed by way of Callendar and Liniilhgow to the " prepared " lodging in
the ruined premises at Kirk-of- Field, Edinburgh. On Sunday, 9th February,
according to what is known as the Regent's Diary, the Queen and Bolhwell supped
with the Bishop of the Is!es, and passed aftenvards with Argyll and Huntly to the
King's chamber, where Bothwell and his accomplices " putt all things to order,"
About two hours after midnight (Hepburn confessed), when the Queen had retired
from Basiian's wedding festivities in Holyrood, " a loud noise like the bursting of
a thunder-cloud awoke the sleeping city. The King's House was torn in pieces and
cast into the air, and the King himself slain." Whether suffocated beforehand or
kilted by the explosion, it is impossible now to determine from the conflicting
testimony of the ruffians concerned in the outrage. With indecent haste Bothwell
was acknowledged by Mary as her friend, and before she had been three months a
widow was accepted by her as a fitting successor to that husband whom he was
believed to have murdered. But so unfortunate was the issue of Mary's affairs from
the date of her union with Bothwell that, in little more than four weeks afterwards
she was compelled to surrender to the nobles confederated in arms against her at
Carberry Hill ; and on the day following that surrender she was, in violation, as
some think, of a solemn promise to the contrary, conveyed a captive to the castle
of Lochleven, Bothwell himself contrived to escape at Carberry, scouring the
northern seas afterwards as a pirate, and dying a maniac in the lonely Danish prison
of Draxholm. The remains of certain minor conspirators executed were conveyed
to Glasgow and hung up, in token of al least a small measure of justice meted out
to the murderers of one so intimately associated by descent and title with tlie West
of Scotland as Henry, Lord Darnley. The lands of the lordship of Darnley, which
includes the mill of the barony, make up the south-west comer of Eastwood
Parish, Renfrewshire, and passed from the Dainley Stewarts first to the Monirgse
family, by purchase, from the Duke of Lennox and Richmond, and then about
fifty years later, or in 1757, to Sir John Maxwell of Nether Pollok, whose descen-
dants are still in possession.

THE WEST CO VNTR Y IN HISTOR Y.

COREHOUSE AND THE CRANSTOUNS.

SpRtTNO from the old house of Crailing, near Jedbuigh, George Cranstoun may be

thought to belong more to the East than the West, but the fine residence close on
Corra Fall, Ijinark, is so closely identified with the life and leisure of one of the
foremost men of his day at the bar, that little apology is required for recalling the
memory of a scholar profound as well as witly, an advocate full of enthusiasm for
his client, and a judge whose judgment could always be relied on. Without the
slightest pretension to the literary culture or many-sided readiness of Jeffrey, or even
to the crisp conversational power of the great critic, it is not too much to say that,
with the exception of Jeflrey alone, George Cranstoun stood in the very front of
that group of young Whig lawyers which made the early years of the present century
so memorable in the history of the Parliament House. He may not have had the
homely familiarity of Cockbum with a jury, but Cranstoun had persuasive powers of
another kind in grace and culture which rivalled in effect the delicious humour of
*' Henry," and kept him abreast in the race wiili the gay, light-hearted Fulierton, as
well as of the silver-tongued Maitland. In matters of feudal law he was acknowledged
to have no rival, either on the bench or at the bar— no rival at least which he needed
to fear ; and there were in his day either on the bench or at the bar names so
historical as Robert Blair of Avonton, Robert Macqueen of Braxfield, and Hay
Campbell of Succoth, Cransloun's career is at once an illustration and explanation
of what has often appeared a puzzle to readers t^fing to make themselves familiar
with the inner life of these harsh exclusive Tory days. How, it is asked, if public
life was then made so very irksome — how did the young Whigs find their way to
such high distinction and such great practice ? No doubt, they got on ; but they
had to force their advance, and in hands less competent success would have been
impossible, even although aided by the spell which seemed to have fallen on the
Tories since they excluded Erskinc from the office of Dean of Faculty, and elected
Robert Dundas of Amiston. Step by step the resolute youths beat their foe, but it

COREHOUSE AND THE CRANSTOUNS. ii

died hard and made a mighty commotion in its death-throes. Sydney Smith was
neither joking nor exaggerating when he wrote that his chief desire to know Horner
proceeded from a camion given him by some excellent but feeble people who
represented him as a person of violent political opinions. " I interpreted this to
mean a person who thought for himself, who had firmness to take his own line in
life, and who loved truth better than he loved Dundas." Tyrant as he was in all
things political, Henry Dimdas was personally and socially one of the most delightful
men of his time, and we cease to wonder that his power became all but irresistible
when he had practically unUmited power of patronage in almost every department of
His Majesty's service— patronage in the army and navy, in the Customs, and in the
Post Office, at home and in India — places suited for everybody, from a tide-waiter to
a colonial governor. Representative freedom Scotland had none. Dundas named
the sixteen peers, and forty-three out of forty-five commoners sent by counties and
burghs to Parliament. The county voters or freehoidets, few in number, were
generally managed by some intriguing local magnate, while the burgh members were
chosen by a self-elected council, generally sleeped in servility and jobbing corruption,
Id this way the party of progress came to be not only avoided in society, but were
rudely treated by the bench, and, indeed, for the most part, by those holding other
oflicial stations. Second son of George of Longwarton, who was in turn seventh son
of the fifth Lord Cransloun, George passed as advocate in 1793, the year after Scott,
and one year before Jefirey ; so that he may be said to have entered on professional
life when Pitt and the Dundas dynasty lay heaviest on Scotland. Pitt had been ten
years First Lord of the Treasury; his friend, Henry Dundas (afterwards Viscount
Melville) was leaving the Home Office to take up the duties of War Secretary, which
he held for seven eventful years ; a nephew, Robert of .\miston, before referred to,
was Lord-Advocate, anxious, it may be, concerning the trial of Muir of Huntershill
for alleged sedidous practices, which look place in August. George Cranstoun was
originally intended for the army, and during his first year or two at the bar was so
annoyed with the bitterness of party feeling that he had serious thoughts of carrying
out the earlier determination. The story goes, whether true or only meant to

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

k

tonnent the decorous young advocate it is neither easy to say nor necessary to
inquire, but it runs that he intended to enter the Austrian army, and consulted his
friend Lord Swinlon as to the propriety of joining a service in which it was said
officers were hable to be flogged. His Lordship, who had a sound horror of a
Jacobin, replied — '"Deed, Mr. George, ye wad be muckle the better of being
whuppit." But, truth or jest, the step indicated was never taken. Sohcitors and
clients began to feel confidence in the abilities of the young advocate who had
spumed the written " test " proposed by David, afterwards Baron Hume, nephew of
the historian ; and the whip, instead of being applied to his own back, was laid with
inimitable cleverness on the shoulders of most of the grave " Fifteen," who then looked
down on the bar from the bench. Mr. Cranstoun was generally credited with the
authorship of the famous "Diamond Beetle Case," being an imaginary report of a
preposterous action given out as raised by a well-known Edinburgh jeweller for
having had his Diamond Beetle described as only an Egyptian Lcuse. The involved
style of Bannatyne, the predilection for Latin quotation of Meadowbank, the brisk
manner of Lord Hermand, the anti-Gallic feeling of Lord Craig, the broad dialect of
Folkemmet and Balmuto, and the hesitating manner of Lord Methven, are all
playfully but admirably caricatured. There is room for only a few sentences here.
Craig — " By an Egyptian louse I understand one that has been formed in the head
of a native Egyptian, a race of men who, ai\er degenerating for many centuries, have
sunk at last into an abyss of depravity in consequence of having been subjected for
B time by the French. I do not find that Turgot or Condorcet or the rest of the
economists ever reckoned the combing of the head a species of productive labour,
and I conclude therefore that wherever French principles have been propagated, lice
grew to an immoderate size, especially in a warm climate like that of Egypt I shall
only add that we ought to be sensible of the blessings we enjoy under a free and
happy constitution where lice and men live under the restraint of equal laws, the
only equality that can exist in a well regulated State." Hermand — " I should have
thought the defender would have gratified his spite to the full by comparing the
beetle to a common louse, an animal certainly vile enough for purpose of defamation

COREHOUSE AND THE CRANSTOUNS. 13

— [shut that door there]— but he adds the epithet of Egyptian ; and I well know
what he means by that epithet. He means, my lords, a louse that has fastened on
the head of a gipsy or tinker, undisturbed by the comb and unmolested in the
enjoyment of its native filth. He means a louse ten times larger and ten times
more abominable than those with which your Lordship and I are familiar. The
petitioner seeks redress for an injury so atrocious and so aggravated, and, so far
as my voice goes, he shall not ask in vain." Balmuto — " Awm for refusln'
the petition. There is more lice than beetles in Fife. What they ca' a beetle
is a thing as lang's ma airm, thick at the ae end and sma' at the ilher. I
thocht when I read the petition that the beetle, or bitill, had been a thing that
women ha'e when they are washing towels or naipery, a thing for dadding them
wi' ; and as the petitioner is a jeweler to his trade, I thocht he had ane o' the
beetles, and set a' roun' wi' diamonds ; and I thocht that a fuilish and extravagant
idea; and I saw nae resemblance it could ha'e to a louse. But I find I was
mistaken, my Lord ; that now the beetle clock the petitioner has, but in my
opinion it's the same as it was before, and I am, my Lord, for refusing the petition ;

and I say, " . Polkemmet— " It should be proved, my Lord, that what is called

a beetle is a reptile well known in this_ country, 1 ha'e seen raony o' them on
Drumshorling Muir. It is a little black beastie about the size o' my thoomb nail.
The country folk ca' them cloks, and I believe they ca' them also ' Maggie wi'
the mony feet,' but it is not a bit like ony loose I ever saw ; so that in my opinion
though the defender may have made a blunder through ignorance in comparin'
thero, there does not seem to have been any animus injuriandt. Therefore I am
for referrin' the petition," Among the greatest speeches of Cranstoun at the Bar,
prominence has generally been given to thai on behalf of Edgar, a Glasgow
teacher tried with another (1817) before the High Court of Justiciary for
administering unlawful oaths to members joining 3 Parliamentary Reform Society,
in so far as it implied a design to upset the Constitution by either physical or moral
force, as the case might require. In addition to certain technical objections as to
the form of the libel, Mr. Cranstoun contended specifically that even on the

u

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

supposition that the oath purported what the public prosecutor said it did, still it
would not imply an obligation on the part of the prisoner lo commit treason. It
must be proved, he held, in such treason cases that there was an expressed
intention to accomplish the King's death or to levy war against him, and in the
latter case the possession of arms must be proved, as well as meetings for drill.
Twenty or thirty individuals doing particular things by force was not a levying of war ;
and though they were doing what would constitute treason if they were armed,
Btiil It would not be treason if they were not. The Lord-Advocate (Colquhoun)
withdrew the indictment. The opinion of Lord Corehouse, delivered from the
bench, on academical subscriptions was worthy of his judicious forethought and
enlightened liberality of spirit. " I dissent," he said, " from that resolution, that all
professors shall be required to subscribe the Confession of Faith of the Church of
Scotland. It is proper and necessary that the Theological Faculty should belong
to the Church established in this part of the kingdom ; but to extend the same
rule to the other Faculties by which not only dissenters of every denomination, but
members of the Church of England, are excluded from teaching science and
literature, appears an inexpedient restriction in the choice of professors. It is
true that subscription is enjoined by the Act of Parliament cited in the Report,
but the circumstances and opinions of the country have materially changed since
that period ; and, in particular, the number of Episcopalians has increased among
the best educated classes in the community. Accordingly, the practice of
subscription has, for a long time, been generally discontinued in the Universities ;
and I am of opinion that those statutes, now fallen into disuse, instead of being
enforced should be repealed." Cranstoun's practice at the bar became in a few
years steady and lucrative, while his official promotion was reasonably rapid. He
was appointed a Depute- Advocate during the short GrenviUe Administration of
i8ofi; chosen Dean of Faculty in room of Matthew Ross, of Candie, 1S23, and in
iSa6 elevated to the bench on the death of George Fergusson, Lord Hermand,
when he took the title of Lord Corehouse from his estate situate amid the Falls of
Clyde, a few mites south of Lanark, but in the east of Lesmahagow parish. The

CORBHOUSE AND THE CRANSTOUNS.

'5

beautiful mansion of the name, in the manorial style of Queen Elizabeth's reign,
was begun In 1824 from designs by Blore, and the grounds afterwards laid out in a
style so exquisite as to make it diflicult to say whether the tasteful fittings of the
house corresponds more with the fabric than the winding walks and flowery
parterres do with the exquisite scenery bordering them on every hand. Here Lord
Corehouse was visited by Sir Waiter Scott in 1827, the friendship between the two
dating as far back as the College class days of 178S. They had also been
associated together on a committee appointed to make inquiry concerning the
method and expense of transplanting trees practised by Sir Henry Stewart of
AUanton. Bowed down as he was by the death of Lady Scott in the summer of
the preceding year, pleasing reference is made in " The Diary" regarding this visit
to his old friend at Corehouse. The ruined tower, originally the fortified residence
of the proprietors, stands a few hundred feet from the present mansion, and,
though often looking as if it would topple over with some heavy spate in Clyde, it
is thought the foundations are not greatly weakened since its erection, many
centuries since.

Relatives of Lord Corehouse have been often referred to in records far
removed from mere family or local history. His cousin James, eighth Lord
Cransloun, was a distinguished naval ot!icer under Rodney and Comwallis, came
home with despatches announcing the great victory over De Grasse, 12th April,
178a, and three years later received the thanks of Parliament for his skilful
handling of the " Bellerophon" in another action with the French fleet. One sister,
Helen D'Arcy, author of " The tears I shed must ever fall," became the second
wife of Professor Dugald Stewart ; another, Margaret, married William Cunningham
of Lainshaw, Ayrshire ; and a third, Jane Ann, one of the earliest friends and
literary advisers of Scott, became Countess of Purgstall, Styria. After the death
of her husband, and of a son, the hope of her life and the last of his illustrious
line, the Countess shut herself up in a solitary mountain Schloss, and all but
forsook intercourse with the world. Captain Basd Hall fared better than others
who had sought refuge in these Siyrian Valleys. He was warmly invited, hospitably

i6

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

entertained by the somewhat eccentric lady, and not pennitted to go back to the
world beyond the valleys with either his wife or family, till he had fulfilled a
promise, given under extreme pressure, of seeing her laid in the grave. Many
interesting particulars of this visit, and of the Countess herself, will be found in
that author's " Schloss Hainfield ; or a Winter in Lower Styria," The uncle of
Lord Corehouse, then Captain W. H. Cranstoun, was mysteriously, but, as it turned
out, innocently mixed up with the affairs of the notorious Mary Elandy, executed
at York for poisoning her father — one of her allegations being that the captain
sent hei poison from Scotland, after an acquaintanceship made when recruiting
with his regiment at Henley.

Stricken with paralysis, and otherwise in poor health, Lord Corehouse retired
from the Bench in 1839, but survived in retirement, at his beautiful seat, till
36th June, 1850, when death removed the old Judge, whom it is difficult to over^
estimate in his zeal as an advocate, for his impartiality as a judge, or even for
his scholarship, so full, ready, and informing. Corehouse fell to be possessed
by E. Cranstoun Charles Harris, fourth son of J. Cunningham of Lainshaw, who,
in 1869, succeeded his aunt, under the entail. The present possessor of this
historic seat is C. E. H, Edmonstoune-Cranstoun, Esq., bom 1841, succeeded
1869.

BATTLE OF LANGSWE.

Early in May, 1568, the news of Queen Mary's escape fi-om Lochleven flashed
through Scotland, and across the Borders to England and the Continent On
the evening of the and, through the connivance of a page known as "Little Douglas,"
the keys of her prison were abstracted from the castellan, and a boat being in
readiness she was rowed across the Loch, with one of her young lady attendants,
to the lands of Caldon, where she was received by Lord Seaton, John ^Beaton,

BATTLE OF LANGSTDE.

•7

{brother of James, Archbishop of Glasgow), and other friends, Tyller \iTitea
of her as then taking horse to ride at ful! speed south to the Ferry, which she
crossed, and held on her gallop, accompanied part of the way by Lord Claud
Hamilton with fifty horse, till Niddry Castle was reached, where the royal fusitive
passed her first night of freedom. Here a hurried despatch was sent to France,
and Hepburn, of Riccarton, instructed to proceed in the first instance to Dunbar
for the purpose of demanding delivery of the castle, and then to pass seaward
to Denmark, that his master Bothwell might be made aware of her deliverance.
Next day a south-western course was taken by way of Mid-Calder and Shotts,
till Hamilton was reached, a distance somewhat over thirty miles. Here Mary
felt herself in safety, and had hardly halted till plans were being devised for
summoning friends to her assistance. The Earls of Argyll, Cassillts, Eglinton,
and Rothes, the Lords Somerville, Yester, Livingstone, Herries, Fleming, Ross,
Borthwick, and many others, all crowded into the camp at Hamilton with their
followers.

Nor were the lesser barons overlooked, the Laird of Nether-Pollok {Sir John
Maxwell), among the rest, being written to on the 5th : — " We dowt not bot ye know
that God of his gudness has put us at libertie, quhome we thank maist heartlie.
Quhairfore desires you wt aSl possible diligence fail not to be heir at us in Hamylton
with all yor folks, friends and seruands bodin in feir of weir, as ye will do us
acceptable service and pleasure. Because yor constancc. We need not at this
put to mak langer Lyr, but will byd you fainveilL — (Signed) Mary, R. Dated
off Hamylton, ye v. of May, 1568," Tradition, generally of a very loose kind,
has connected many places with the presence of Mary during her few busy days
in and around Hamilton — pre-eminently Castlemilk (Stuart) and Craignethan,
then occupied by the infirm Earl of Arran, third of the name, whose reason had
become affected by the Queen's refusal to accept him for a husband. Unlike most
of the other members of his family, he was in early life actively inclined to favour
the Reformers. It is on the whole difficult to see why Mary should for any
purpose remove beyond the bounds of the protection afforded by her kinsmen

i8

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

and supporters at Cadzow or in and around Hamilton proper, where in a very few
days about six thousand men mustered in her cause. Mary's letters during
her stay are all dated like the above, as from or "off" Hamilton, and it waa
certainly at Hamilton she held her great Council to declare that consent to the
coronation of her son had been extorted by the fear of death. An Act of Council
was thereafter passed to make treasonable aD the proceedings by which Moray
had become Regent, and a Bond drawn up in defence of their Sovereign which,
in the enthusiasm of the moment, was signed by nine eails, nine bishops, eighteen
lords, twelve abbots and priors, and nearly one hundred barons. Two versions
have come down to us of Mary's proceedings at this time. In one she is opposed
to civil war, and is said even to have made overtures to the Regent for reconciliation
and forgiveness. Another will have it that she was no way averse to the Hamilton
policy of striking a decisive blow at the Regent's party, and would certainly make
no effort to avoid a conflict.

Since a day or two before Mary's escape on the and May, the Regent had
been in Glasgow with a small following administering justice and holdiog courts
of various kinds. Anxious to attack at once before either Huntly or Ogilvy, with
their northern followers, could join the royal forces, but wishful at the same time for
a breathing space to gather men, Moray issued a proclamation declaring his
determination to support the King's Government Mar thereupon despatched
reinforcements and cannon from Stirling. Grange took command of the horse;
Hume, after foiling Hepburn in his attempt to seize Dunbar, joined the Regent
with six hundred ; Edinburgh sent a small force of hagbutters ; and important as
any, Andrew, chief of Arrochar, marched in from Lochlomondside, followed by
six hundred of "the wild Macfarlanc's plaided clan." It thus came about that
between Sunday, and May, the day of Mary's escape from Lochleven, and Thursday,
13th May, an army, irregular it is true, but full of enthusiasm, and numbering
at least four thousand, had gathered round the Regent Thursday was the day
fixed by the Queen to advance towards Dumbarton Castle, kept all along in her
interest by John, fifth Lord Fleming. Their design, if one can gather it from

V

I
I

BATTLE OFLANGSWE. rg

dubious authorities, was to aroid the City of Glasgow, where they well knew the
Regent lay encamped with his men, and cross the Clyde lower down, probably
at Renfrew or Dunglass, the river then being easily crossed at these points during
low water. With roads hardly existing in the sense now understood, it is not
known what route the Queen and her army took on leaving Hamilton, but from
what followed it may be presumed to have been by way of Blantyre and
Cambuslang, where a westward movement was effected in the direction of Langside.
At anyrate the Regent was (ally informed that through the village of Langside
the Queen's forces must pass. Had it been sincerely intended to avoid a contest,
a safer road to the Clyde, south of Cathcart, might have been found.

Early in the morning. Grange had examined Langside and neighbourhood,
while the Regent was mustering his men on the Buigh Muir, off the Gallowgate.
Informed of the intention of the Queen's party to march along the left or south
bank of the Clyde, he returned in haste lo the muster-ground, mounted a
hagbutter behind each horseman, and having rapidly forded the Clyde, a
little above the frail old bridge, he placed them advantageously among the
cottages, hedges, and gardens skirling each side of the narrow rising lane up
which the Queen's troops must defile {" Melvill's Memoirs," pp. 200-301.) Moray
with the main body, and Morton with the advance, crossed Clyde by the bridge,
and, ascending Camphill and langside Hill frona their western slopes, out
of view of their opponents, arrived on the ground just in time to meet the
Queen's forces. The vanguard, two thousand strong, was commanded by Lord
Claud Hamilton, but the disposal of the troops generally was in the hands of
Mary's brother-in-law, Archibald, fifth Earl of Argyll, whose commission as
lieutenant of Scotland had been signed at Hamilton early in the morning. The
writer of the " Diurnal of Occurrents " mentions that the advance of Hamilton
got involved within narrow passages, or "fauld dykes," when rushing to attain
the crest of the hill, and being fired on in this disorganised state, they "gaif
bakis and fled." Others in the rear sought to push on, and so far succeeded,
but were neatly exhausted when they found themsdves face to face with the

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

Regent's advance, well rested and in firm order. Tytler, relying on Melvill,
describes this portion of the force as composed of the choicest Border pikeman,
led by Hume, Kerr of Cessford, and other barons of the Merse, who all fought
on foot Obeying Grange's coramand to keep pikes shouldered till the enemy
had levelled theirs and then push on, the most severe struggle of the day now
took place for possession of the hill side. Melvill (the Queen's secretary), who
was present, describes the long pikes as so closely crossed and interlaced that,
when the soldiers behind discharged their pistols and threw them on the staves
of their shattered weapons in the face of their enemies, they never reached
the ground, but remained lying on the spears. Reinforcing the Barons of
Renfrewshire, with the followers of Lindsay and Balfour, a sharp united attack
on the Queen's party was made by Moray and Grange, with disastrous results
to their opponents. They wavered, broke up, cast aside their weapons, and
fled. The route was completed by a chaise on the part of the Macfarlane
men, with the leaps and yells peculiar to their mode of fighting. Even the
Hamilton cavalry, greatly superior as it was to anything on the side of the
Regent, became mixed up in the confusion, and when relieved, could do little
but turn and disperse, although every incitement to renewed effort was given
by the presence of the Queen, who witnessed the scene with sorrow from an
eminence adjoining Cathcart Castle. About 300 were set down as being slain
on the Queen's side, and many distinguished leaders captured — among them
Lords Seaton and Ross, the eldest sons of the Earls of Eglinton and Cassillis —
and the Sheriff of Linlithgow, a Hamilton, who bore the royal standard in the
vanguard. The Regent's loss was trifling — not more, it is thought, than half-
a-dozen, but three of his trusty supporters — Hume, Ochiltree, and Andrew Car
of Faudonsidc, were severely wounded.

With much humanity, the Regent checked his followers in pursuit, and even
liberated certain of the captives condemned to death. One so released was that
John Hamilton of Bothwellhaugh, destined within two years to cause the death
of his deliverer by shooting him when passing in triumph through the streets of

^

BATTLE OF lANGSWE. «t

Linlithgow. The authorities on which reiiance can be placed for information
regarding the battle or " Field," as it was called, of Langside, are neither weighty
nor very informing. No letter or despatch from the Regent regarding the en-
counter is known to exist. The "Memoirs of Melvill" and the "Diurna!," published
by the Maitland Club, as well as the " Herries' Memoirs," issued by the Abbotsford
Club, although each in their way pretending to the authority of observers or actors
concerned in the events narrated, have all had their accuracy questioned. Among
the Scottish documents in the State Paper Office, London, is a printed "Adver-
tisement of the Conflict in Scotland," bearing dale three days after the engagement;
but it is brief, and otherwise imperfect through decay. On only one point are all
agreed — that the encounter lasted only a short time, not many minutes over half-
sn-hour. It was long enough, however, to check, if not dispel, any notion Queen
Mary might have indulged in of again ascending the throne of her ancestors.
Wrung in spirit by disappointment, yet resolute as any Guise of them all, she
turned hastily from her exposed resting-place to urge her horse southward, accom-
panied by a few valued friends like Herries, Melvill, Fleming, and Livingstone,
not foigetiing even in her grief the page "preltie" George Douglas. Her route
and destination on the evening of that day are still matters of conjecture. His-
torians have said Dundrennan Abbey, near Kirkcudbright. Herries writes of a halt
as being made at Sanquhar before proceeding to his own house at Terregles, not
(ar from Dumfries, but on the Galloway side of the Nith. Mary herself, in the
pathetic letter to Elizabeth, written from Workington, Cumberland, three days
after the battle, says she rode sixty miles across country the first day : — " It is," she
writes with touching simplicity, "my earnest request that your Majesty will send for
me as soon as possible, for my condition is pitiable, not to say for a Queen, but
even for a simple gentlewoman, I have no other dress than that in which I
escaped from the field. My first day's ride was sixty miles across the country;
and I have not since dared to travel except by night," Sixty miles agrees better
with the Herries narrative than any other theory, and it may be that Sanquhar was
the fitst place halted at, and reached by routes not known now, but roughly

aa THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

maiked out by the present road leading through East Kilbride, Strathaven, and
Douglas, from which Sanquhar is distant only about twelve miles. Dundrennan
could be easily reached the second day from Lord Herries's residence at Terregles,
and beyond Dundrennan the Queen's movements can be traced almost daily during
the long years of imprisonment which followed on carrying out the ill-advised
scheme of submitting her troubles to tlie gracious consideration of her " Sister "
Elizabeth, of England. The Regent, on returning to Glasgow with his forces,
received a warm welcome from the inhabitants, attended a special thanksgiving
service in the Cathedral, and was afterwards entertained by the Magistrates.
Besides renewing or extending former privileges enjoyed by certain crafts, the
Kegent, before leaving the City, and in consideration of the uncommon exertions
made by the bakers, to supply bread to the troops, working as they did not only in
the mills but in their own houses, gave them a grant of what was known as the
Archbishop's mill at Partick, which had then become the property of the Crown,
and also a piece of land adjoining, annexed to the Royalty of Glasgow in the first
session of the first Parliament of Charles II.

AUCHINLECK AND THE BOSWELLS.

Lyino almost longitudinally across mid Ayrshire, but slightly to the east or I^nark
side of the countiy, the little strip of Auchinleck parish appears as if likely to be
crushed down on Cumnock by Som, were it not for the soft mossy barrier which
"serves it in the office of a wall, or moat defensive." This dreary upland waste,
bleak and barren in itself, is yet classic as Marathon to the descendants of those
who there contended to the death for religious liberty. Beginning about a mile
and a half east by north-east of Auchinleck village, this battle-ground of the
Covenant extends nearly six miles north-eastnaid towards the course of Ayr Water,

AUCHINLECK AND THE BOSWELLS. 23

a small portion projecting into Muirkirk parish as a boundary on the east, and
coiresponding so far with the sinuous division made by "winding Lugar," which
divides tlie west point of Auchinleck from OchOtree, and most of the south from
Cumnock. Poor, cold, and thin, even aa pasture land, the Lugar in modem days
may be looked upon as another Pison compassing treasures beneath the surface
more precious than the gold of Havilah. Nor is the parish quite without anti-
quarian remains of interest, as within its bounds stand the ruined Castle of Kyle,
a few miles south-east of the village; and within Auchinleck poUcies there is what
remains of the Boswell's ancient family " keep," along the mouldering walls of
which Dr. Johnson himself clambered. Auchinleck (the "Affleck" of natives and
neighbours) may claim even a slight additional literary distinction, in so far as it is
the bjnh-place of that keen controversial Protestant, William M'Gavin, and of the
smooth-flowing, if somewhat colourless, essayist and divine, "A.K. H. B." Cameron
fell on its dark heath, and Peden, afier innumerable escapes, was laid in the
churchyard, but not befoie visiting his young Mend's lonely grave in the moss,
where he knelt and prayed fervently, while " Oh ! to be wi' Ritchie " was " still his
bitter cry." To the shame of any Government, except the shameless Government
of Charles, the remains of the brave old Covenanter, whom Providence had
permitted to breathe his last, concealed in the house of "one of his own people,"
were disinterred, removed to Old Cumnock, and flung with ignominy into a pit
beneath the public gallows.

In the first years of the sbtteenth century the lands of Auchinleck, correspond-
ing, it may be presumed, with something like the present parish boundaries, aa
two-thirds of its rental still remain in the Boswell family, was granted by James IV.
to Thomas Boswell, of the Balmulo line, who had married a daughter and co-
heiress of Sir John Auchinleck of that ilk. The early history of the land or family
is not necessary to be set forth here. Exactly 200 years after Auchinleck had
passed to the Boswells, or in 1704, the James Boswell of the day, a lawyer of
some eminence, married Lady Elizabeth Bruce, daughter of Alexander, second
Earl of Kincardine, by whom, besides other children, he had an heir and

A

34 THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

taccenor, Alexander, who was trained for the bar, and admitted adrocate 39di
December, 1729. He acted for two yeara as Sheriff-Depute of the cotmtjr of
Wig;town, but resigned in 1750 ; and on the resignation of David Ei^ine, of Dons,
in i7S4i was elevated to the bench as Lord Anchinkck. On the death of Hew
Dalr}^plc of Dnimmorc, a few months later, he was nominated a Lord of
Justiciary, He resigned the laner appointment in 1780, but retained the former
tilt his death, which took place on 25th August, 1781, in tbeserenty'sixth yeaiof his
age. This old gentleman seems to hare experienced no greater grief in the worid
than that his son should have become the companion of Dr. Johnson. "There's
nae hope for Jamie, mon," the Judge said to a friend, "Jamie is gacn dean gyte.
What do you think, mon ? He's done wi' Paoli — he's aff wi' the land-louping
scoundrel of 3 Corsican ; and whose tail do you think he has pinned hlmsel' to
now, mon?" Here old Auchinleck summoned up a sneer of most sovereign
contempt " A dominie, mon — an auld dominie ; he keeped a schule, and cau'd it
an academy." When Johnson was at Auchinleck the conversation one evening
became more than usually animated between the Covenanting Judge and his Tory
guest. " And pray," the latter asked, " what good did Cromwell ever do to his
country ?" "God, doctor! he gart Kings ken they had a iitk (joint) in their
neck." The Judge and his son appear to have been two very different men, the
one being solid, composed, and slow ; the other vain, frivolous, and volatile.
Riding together one day James appeared impatient to get on a little faster, " for,"
■aid he, " it is not the exercise that fatigues me, but the hinging upon a beast"
"What's the matter, mon," his father replied, "What's the matter, mon, how a
chield hings, if he dinna hing upon a gallows?" Lord Auchinleck died 25th
August, 1783, aged 76. Towards the later years of his life (or about r 771), he
pulled down the old family mansion, and built a new, elegant, and comfortable
residence.

James Boswell, son and heir of Lord Auchinleck, and author of one of the most
eitccmcd biograiihics in the English language, was bom in 1740, studied at
Glasgow and Uircclit for the bar, and passed advocate 1766. Visiting London in

AVCIIINLECK AND THE BOSWELLS. 25

1J63, he made the acquaintance of Johnson at the hospitable table of Mr, Diily,
and though they were never together so long nor so frequently as might be inferred
from the "Life," Boswell, in spite of his many fraillies, and probably in a great
measure because of these frailties, was able to make such good use of his oppor-
tunities as to cause all readers to be thankful that one so prone to talk as Johnson,
and who talked so welt, should have been brought into close contact with one so
zealous and able to record. But Boswell did more than record, lie suggested
and planned for Johnson schemes which Johnson himself would never have thought
of, or, if thought of, would have been cast aside through his habitual or rather
constitutional indolence. But for Boswell, who suggested the whole project, and
accompanied his friend from first to last, there would have been no " Journey to
the Western Islands of Scotland," where as a denizen of Fleet Street the sage saw
so much that was "surprising in modes of life and appearances of nature." In
Boswell he admits to have found "a companion whose acutencss would help his
inquiry, and whose gaiety of conversation and civility of manners were sufficient
to counteract the inconveniences of travel in countries less hospitable than those
through which they passed." To have earned such praise, Boswell must have been
something mote than a mere fussy, obsequious gossip, the meanest and the feeblest
of mankind — "a fellow," the Doctor said, in one of his cross moods, "who missed
his only chance of immortality by not being alive when the 'Dunciad' was written."
That he was indolent there is other evidence besides his own excessively frank and
frequent confessions. Through various causes not necessary to explain here, the
casual introduction at Dilly's table began to ripen so soon into close friendship
that Johnson that very season insisted on accompanying Boswell as far as Harwich,
from which he was to proceed to Utrecht for the purpose of continuing his law
studies. A lady passenger with them spoke of never permitting her children to be
idle. Johnson replied — " I wish, madam, you would educate me, too, for I have
been an idle fellow all my life." On her rejoining that she was sure he had not
been idle, he resumed, " Nay, madam, it is very true ; and that gentleman there
(pCHnting to Boswell) has been idle. He was idle at Edinburgh ; his father sent

36 THE WEST CO VNTR Y IN HISTOR Y.

him to Glasgow, where he continued to be idle. He then went to London, where
he has been very idle ; and now he is going to Utrecht, wliere he will be as idle
OS ever." Besides passing as advocate in Edinburgh, James Boswell was called
at the English Ear, and went the Northern Circuit, where many droll stories were
circulated regarding him, particularly one invented at Lancaster Assizes, where,
at the instigation of a waggish brother, he is said to have moved the Court for a
writ "Quare adhaerit paviraento." "I never heard (said the Judge) of such a
writ ; what can it be that adheres pavimento ? Are any of you gentlemen at the
Bar able to explain this?" The Bar laughed. At last one of them said, "My
Lord, Mr. Boswell last night adharit pavimeiito. There was no moving him for
some time. At last he was carried to bed, and he has been dreaming about
himself and the pavement." With the exception of the " Douglas Cause," in which
he was mixed up aa a kind of volunteer on the winning aide, Boswel! had hitle
call to appear often in Court, although he had all his life the esteem and friendship
of the Scottish Bencli and Bar. Of a festive, convivial turn of mind, he was
simple and unconstrained to an almost reprehensible degree, and occasionally, it
would appear, he found those as high in social station as himself willing to minister
to his vanity. His great work (for his books of travel have been forgotten), the
" Life of Dr. Samuel Johnson," appeared In two volumes 4to, 1790 — nearly six
years after the death of his hero. Boswell himself died June 19, 1795, aged 55,
leaving Alexander, his heir, with James, a barrister, and friend of Malon^
Shakespearian commentator.

Alexander Boswell (shortly before his melancholy death, Sir Alexander, Bart),
was one of the most popular Scottish gentlemen of his day, and in the course of
his too brief life there came to gather round him an interest as varying in kind as
it was unique in character. Efficient as a magistrate, he was also foremost in
all that related to the public business of his native county of Ayr, while his
accessibility to the humblest neighbour, joined to an unaffected appreciation for
good-humoured social enjoyment, made him one of the most delightful of com-
panions in the hunting-field or the race-course. His favourite riding colours,

AUCHINLECK AND THE BOSWELLS.

2J

blue and white stripes, were often landed first at the post, and none ever received
warmer or more sincere congratulations on victory. He was not only the writer
of two or three Scottish songs of far above average merit, but he sang them socially
with a polished humour and fiery earnestness all his own. A sound scholar, not
either public or private business — not even the exacting demands of the Muses,
lessened his appreciation of these family treasures of old Scottish lore which he had
inherited in the family library at Auchinleck, and which the luxury of a private
printing-press he indulged in made familiar to more readers than would otherwise
have been the case. There Scott picked up the romance of "Sir Tristram," and
there Sir Alexander himself re-issued his interesting reprint of the discussion at
Crossraguel between John Knox and Quentin Kennedy, 1562. Sir Alexander,
bora October 9th, 1775, was educated at Westminster and Oxford, and created a
baronet for his patriotic zeal during the threatening Radical disturbances of i8ar.
He was not spared to enjoy the honour for any long season. The political
atmosphere was charged with influences unusually exciting. Men given far less
than Boswell to either light-heartedness or humour were led to think, and say,
and write things not to be defended. One or two "squibs" from his pen, printed
in the "Glasgow Sentinel," bore somewhat ungraciously on a leading Whig of the
day, James Stuart, W.S,, younger, of Duneam. The most oflcnsive was in the form
of a Whig song, "supposed to be written by one of the Jameses, certainly not by
King James I. or King James V., but probably by one of the house of Stuart."
A few of the lines appear to have been studiously calculated to give ofience : —

"There 's stot-feeder Stoart,
Kent tor that fiit cow-art.
How glegly he kjclcs ony ba', man.
And Gibson, lang cliiel, man.
Whose height might serve wecl, mnn.
To read his nin name on a via', man.
Vonr luiighti o' the pen, man,
Are a' gentlemen, man,

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

Ilk body 's a limb o' the law, man ;

Tacks, bonds, precogni lions.

Bills, wills, and pcti lions,

And ought but a tri^er some draw, man,"

Tlie manuscripts given up by the printer Borihwick, and the editor Alexander,
were afterwards sworn lo as in the handwriting of Auchinleck. A hostile meeting
thereafter took place on 26th March, 1822, on the fann of Auchtertool, Fifeshire,
when John Douglas, brother to the Marquis of Queeosberry, acted as second to
the Baronet, and the Earl of Rosslyn for Mr. Stuart. The principals stood at
twelve paces distant. The Earl of Rosslyn gave the word, and the parties fired,
when Sir Alexander received Mr. Stuart's ball in the right shoulder, which broke
the clavicle of the bone and injured the spine. Sir Alexander immediately fell, and
was carried to Balraulo House, the seat of his relative Lord Balmuto, where every
professional assistance possible was rendered, but without avail, and the tin-
fortunate Baronet, then only forty-seven years of age, gradually sank, and expired
on the afternoon of the following day. Sir Alexander, in his last moments, exi)res3ed
regret for not making his intention to fire in the air more distinct; but admitted
that Mr. Stuart took the only course open to him in insisting on a "meeting."
It had been intended lo arrange matters in the neighbourhood of Edinburgh, but
the Sheriff of that county bound the parties over to keep the peace, and Fife was
only thought of at the last moment, as preferable to the Continent, which had been
partly arranged for. Mr. Stuart left the ground, after an ineffectual attempt to
express his sympathy with the wounded Baronet He surrendered for trial before
the High Court of Justiciary on 10th June, same year (1822), where he was defended
with unrivalled ability by his fi-iends Jeffrey and Cockburo. The jury, after the
address of counsel and a summing up by I-ord-Justice Clerk Boyle, returned a
verdict unanimously finding Mr Stuart not guilty. In relief of mental distress,
he afierwards travelled in America, and returning to London edited the Liberal
"Cotmer" for some years, when he was appointed Inspector of Factories, which
position be held at his death in 1849, aged 74 years. Certain citcumstances

1

THE MURES OF CALD WELL, 39

connected with the above hostile meeting were reproduced by Scott in the dud
scene of "St. Ronan's Well." Sir Alexander Boswell left one daughter, married to
Sir W. F. Elliot of Stoba and Wells, and a son, James, who succeeded him; bom
1S06, and married, 1830, Jessie Jane, daughter of Sir J. Montgomery Cunningham,
Bart., with issue, two daughters. Young Sir James died in 1857, a few years after
he had succeeded in reducing what was intended to be a very strict entail of the
family estate, as designed by Lord Auchinteck and his son, James, on the ground
that certain letters written on or over an erasure were not referred to in the
testing clause of the deed. Lady Boswell died March, 1884. The valued
rental of lands composing Auchinleck parish is entered at ^24.797, about two-
thirds being held by the Boswell family, and the rest divided among the Marquis
of Bute with ten other proprietors.

THE MURES OF CALDWELL.

Mure, Moore, More, for the same name has in process of time assumed all these
and at least as many other forms, carry the mind back to public transactions in
Scotland earlier than to what well-authenticated history can testify, and earlier also
than the time when any uniformity in spelling was observed. A settled
nomenclature has justly been described as one of the niceties of modem
orthography. Of the Mures it may be said with hteral exactness, " Kings have
come of us, not us of kings." Smitten by the charms of his cousin, the " Beauty of
Rowallan," while living in retirement at Dundonald, the young Stewart, Earl of
Strathaven, afterwards Robert 11,, by marrying Elizabeth Mure, under a dispensation
from Holy Mother Church, made her the maternal head of the whole Royal race of
Stewart. Without making any pretensions to be the parent stem of this ancient
family the house of Caldwell has ever ranked high for the public spirit and energy

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

of its representatives — in later days for judicial wisdom and intellectual culture.
Early in the fourteenth century, Easter Caldwell passed from the family of that
name to the Mures through the marriage of Gilchrist Mure with the last heiress of
her race, whose ancient ruined tower may still be seen within the grounds of
Caldwell.

One of the earliest existing family documents (1496) is an instrument of
sasine of Sir Adam Mure's — NoblU vtri Ailm Miir de Catddvel — peaceably and
legally conveying a small hamlet called Kempisland, otherwise " Breadsorrow," so
named because of the " grate sorrow it bred in debating and contesting for the
hereditable right thereof." The term "kemping" has been explained as an old
Scottish word for striving and fighting — a commentary, it is further explained, of a
disputatious age, when Border chiefs, great coveters of Nabolli's vineyard, converted
many an adjoining field into a campus belli, of which the strongest man reaped the
harvest with his claymore. This Adam is described by contemporary annalists as
" a gallant, stout man, having many feuds with his neighbours, which were managed
with great fierceness and much blood-shed." Hector, a son, is mentioned as killed
in 1499 by the Maxwells of Pollok, whose laird narrowly escaped the wild justice of
Hector's brother John in retaliation. The feud remained long an heirloom in the
families, but that it ultimately came to be "staunched" may be noticed from a
pleasant adventure mentioned below. John Mure was not only indicted for
laying an ambuscade to capture Maxwell and "his man" with "wikid malice,
wrongwislie and violentlie;" but in 1515 we find him paying so little respect to
the Church as to engage with Lennox for sacking the palace of Archbishop
Beaton at Glasgow, and breakmg down the same with artillery. An inventory,
curious enough in its way, but too long for quotation here, will be found In the
" Caldwell Papers " (vol i, p. 54) of the "gutds and geir," the scarlet gowns
lined with fur, the gold rings and precious stones, the plate, ordnance, and
"vivers" seized on the occasion. The dying voice of another of the family
recorded in 1640 expresses with a quaint solemnity not to be misunderstood the
fast-approaching troubles of the Cromwellian period : — " For so mickle as at this

THE MURES OF CALDWELL.

31

tyme thair ia great appeirance of trubles and warrcs in thia land, whilk God of His
infinit mercie prevent, and grant ane happie and guide reformationie to the glorie
of His name. Howbeit, I, Robert Mure of Cauldwell, am now baith weill and
haill in bodie, spirit, and raynd j yet, considering there is nothing more certaine
nor death, and nothing more uncertaine nor the tyme and manor yrof. . , .
thairfore I heirby mak my latter will and testament."

Good and thoughtful Robert of Caldwell might well think of " trubles and
waixes" when the Commons in London were not only refusing subsidies to the
King, but impeaching Strafford and Laud. Robert, the lesLator, would seem to
have been soon "called away," for when the storm burst the owners were minors,
and it may be said to have passed with comparative gentleness over the house of
Caldwell Putting aside at this time any account of the part taken by the
Caldwell Mures in the great national commotions which followed the Reformation,
the oppression to which they were subjected for supporting the Covenant party,
and their Hanoverian loyalty during the Jacobite "risings," the dale of 1753 is
easily reached, when Wester Caldwell was again joined to the old estate by
William Mure, Baron of Exchequer. It is mainly with this William Mure, and
partly with bis grandson, the accomplished historian of Greek literature, the
present article is concerned.

According to Professor Jardine — who, however, it should be remembered, had
been the youth's tutor in Paris — William Mure came nearer up to his idea of a wise
man than any he had ever known. Born in 1718, his father, also William, died
suddenly a few days after his election for Renfrewshire; so that the infant heir
was left under the sole guardiansliip of his mother, a woman of sense and piety,
who, in course of time, wisely introduced into the house as teacher, William
Leechman, promoted in after life, partly by the interest of his pupil, to be Principal
in the University of Glasgow. A Continental tour was undertaken in due course,
but schemes being already devising to send him to the House of Commons as
member for his native county, his time there was more limited than might
otherwise have been the case. One incident in it affords a happy illustration, that

3>

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

long before that lime the feud of ancient standing between the Mures and
Maxwells had been buried in oblivion as a cause of strife. Thirty years afterwards
the Baron's son, Colonel William, recorded in his journal that he remembered
goinj;; to see the Chateau de Sceaux, belonging to the Count d'Eu, a descendant
of Louis XIV., almost a rival to Versailles at the time, but plundered and
destroyed at the Revolution. In the fine park was a large piece of water which
led the guide of the party to mention that many years ago two impudent
Englishmen, who had been permitted to see the place on a very hot day, took
advantage of not being observed, as they supposed, to bathe in the lake. The
Countess, however, got word of what was going on, much to the consternation of
the bathers, who had just time before she came up to regain their clothes and
effect a retreat into the wood. The guide added that the strangers were both
above six feet high, and that as they hurriedly dressed themselves and slunk away,
the Countess remarked, " What fine fellows they art" On repeating this story to
my father at home, he asked if our cicerone had told us the names of the two tall
Englishmen, and on my answering that he had not, he said: "Then I will
tell you ; the one was the late Sir John Maxwell of Follok ; the other,
myself."

From a very early period in life, at least long before his elevation to the
Exchequer Bench, William Mure displayed, in addition to other excellent qualities,
an agreeable faculty for forming and maintaining the friendship of distinguished
men — " Principibus placuisse viris non ultima iaiis est" Among these, foremost in
the fi^nt rank, were John, Marquis of Bute, Prime Minister, and David Hume,
liistorian and philosopher. From the year of his election for Renfrewshire, on the
death of Alexander Cunningham, of Craigends (1742), till his promotion to the
Bench in 1761, William Mure spoke but rarely in the House; but his solid sense
and cautious ways made him so much of an informal chamber-counsel on Scotch
politics, commerce, and manufactures that Lord Bute not only handed him over
the management of much of his own dilapidated properly, but placed at his
disposal a very considerable amount of Government patronage in Scotland — an

THE MURES OF CALD WELL.

33

influence great at the tirae, "and preserved by his own personal character long
after political power had passed away from his patron." Short as Lord Bute's
tenure of office was, he writes to Mure ; — " I was long tired of the anxiety, envy, and
disgust of a situation ill-suited to my temper or habitudes of life." His physical
powers unfitted him for battling with the active, and sometimes unscrupulous, oppo-
nents by whom he was beset : — " Many reasons," his Lordship again wrote, " justify
this resignation in a prudential light, but none of these should have had weight
with me at present if my health had permitted my continuance; the state of that
made it impossible, and I yield to necessity." ("Caldwell Papers," vol. i., p. 175-6,)
Again, he writes on the death of one of Jiis brotliers : — " Attachment, gratitude,
love, and real respect are too tender plants for Ministerial gardens : attempt to
raise them, and they are either chilled on their first springing, or, if they once
appear, they fade with the very nourishment that is given them." This fdrly
corresponds with, and even justifies, Macaulay's description of the naixed motives
which he surmises may have led to Bute's sudden resignation. His habits, the
historian explains, had not been such as were likely to fortify his mind against
obloquy and public hatred. He had reached his forty-eighth year in dignified
ease without knowing by personal experience what it was to be ridiculed and
slandered, when all at once, without any previous initiation, he found himself
exposed to such a storm of invective and satire as had never burst on the head
of any statesman. But to linger with Mure and Bute detains us from a historical
character of still greater and more permanent interest. Bom seven years before
William Mure, David Hume survived the Baron only a few months, but sufficiently
long to deplore " as a loss irreparable the death of the oldest and best friend I
had in the world ;" adding, " I should be inconsolable, did I not see an event
approaching which reduces all things to a level." The friendship appears to have
been of a most cordial description in the philosopher's Paris days, when he
acted as Secretary to the Embassy of Lord Hertford, and where, as Walpole puts
it, Hume, Whist, and Richardson {of "Pamela" fame) was the only Trinity in
f^hioD. The intimacy was renewed and kept up by personal intercourse in

THE WEST COUNTRY [N HISTORy

Edinburgh, Mrs. Mure, who professed, no doubt sincerely, to "admecr" David,
being always at home in her own house on the Abbey Hill when he called for a
rubber at whist, or a friendly infonnal chat. His proficiency in the history of
card kings, as set down in the "Caldwell Papers," would not appear to have
been rated high by the professors of Hoyle in these days, although on this point
Hume did not willingly bear criticism ; Mrs. Mure, keen in the game as Sarah
Battle herself, was often " down " on the philosopher without mercy. One night
it is recorded they got into Buch a warm discussion on his play that even the
good-natured Hume lost his temper, and would stand it no longer. Taking up
his hat, and calling a pretty Pomeranian dog accompanying him, "Come away,
Foxey," David walked out of the house in the middle of the rubber. The
family were to start next morning for Caldwell ; and Hume, who then lived in St.
Andrew's Square, a good mile distant, was at the door before breakfast, hat in
hand, with an apology.

Another card story connected with an intimate friend of the Mures, and
showing David in another light, although hardly new at this time of day, should
not be omitted. Before building his house in the New Town, Hume occupied a
lodging in the lofty block, known as St James's Court, on the Mound. On the
floor below lived Mrs. Campbell, of Succoth (a Wallace of Elderslie), mother of
the Lord President, Sir Hay Campbell. One Sunday evening, Hume, who was on
friendly habits with Mrs. Campbell's family, stepping do^vn to take tea with her,
found assembled a party of pious elderly ladies, met to converse on topics suitable
for the Sabbath. David's unexpected entrance on such an occasion caused some
dismay on the part of the landlady and her guests ; but he sat down and chatted
in w easy and appropriate a style that all embarrassment soon disappeared. On
the removal of the tea-things, however, he gravely said to his hostess — " Well,
Mrs, Campbell, where are the cards?" " The cards, Mr. Hume ! Surely you have
forgot what day it is." " Not at all, madam," he replied ; " you know we have
often a quiet rubber on a Sunday evening." After vainly endeavouring to make
him retract this calumny, she said to him, " Now, David, you '11 just be pleased to

THE MURES OF CALDWELL. %%

walk out of my house, for you're not fit company in it to-night" When young,
Hume is said to have courted a well-bom beauty of Edinburgh, and was rejected;
but, records the historian of the house of Caldwell, several years afterwards, when
he had obtained celebrity, it was hinted to him by a common friend that the lady
had changed her mind. "So have J," dryly replied the philosopher. As
became the best-natured man of his day, Hume quitted the world and his lady
friends at peace. On talcing leave of Mrs. Mure, with whom he had had many a
critical rubber, he gave her as a parting gift a complete copy of his history.
This tradition is circumstantially confirmed by the existence in the Caldwell
library of his own last edition of the great work (8 vols. 8vo, 1773), inscribed on
the title-page of the first volume, " From the Author." She thanked him, and
added in her native dialect, which Mrs. Mure and the historian spoke in great
purity, "O, David, that's a book you may weel be prood o'; but before ye dee,
ye should bum a' your wee bookies !" To which, raising himself on his couch, he
replied with some vehemence, half-offended, half in joke, "What for should I
bum a' my wee bookies ?" But feeling too weak for further discussion of the point,
he shook her hand and bade her farewell. David Hume died August 25, 1776,
fully five months after his friend, Baron Mure, who died the preceding gth March.

When Baron Mure retired from Parliament to ascend the Exchequer Bench
in 1761, he was succeeded in the representation of Renfrewshire, at the general
election of that year, by Patrick Crawford of Auchinames. Three years afterwards
Baron Mure was elected Lord Rector of Glasgow, an honour likewise conferred
upon his son and successor, Colonel William of Caldwell (1793-4), friend of Sir
John Mure, and by Anne, daughter of Sir J. Hunter Blair, Bart., of Dunskey,
father of William Mure of Caldwell, D.C.L., another Lord Rector (1847-8), but
wider known among students at home, on the Continent, and over Europe as one
of the most profound scholars of the century, especially in all that concerned the
language and hterature of ancient Greece. It was intended to have noticed at some
length the writings of this distinguished ornament of the house of Caldwell, the
minuteness of his researches, and the extent to which they have been appreciated,

36 THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

of his place and influence among Homeric scholars, and to give a glimpse, in
addition, of the entirely new "setting" into which he fixed early legends, and of
the clear light his researches have thrown on ancient customs and ancient habits
of thought. But the space already occupied warns us at present from entering
on such enchanted ground. One sentence more must suffice. Dr. Wm, Mure,
who sat, as his grandfather had done, for Renfrewshire in Parliament, was succeeded
on his death in April, i860, by his eldest son, Lieut-Colonel Wm. Mure, who twice
successfully contested the county (1874, 1880), and died 9th November, 1880, leaving
by his wife, Constance Elizabeth, third daughter of the first Lord Leconfield, one
son, Wm. Mure (bom 1870), the present youthful representative of his ancient and
distinguished house.

Situate in parts of three parishes, Bcith, Dunlop, and Neilston, the lands of
Caldwell mark the boundary line of North Ayrshire and South Renfrewshire. The
mansion house was commenced by Baron Mure in 1773 from designs by Robert

JOHN GLASSFORD OF DOUGALSTONE.

AtoNo with William Cunninghaju of Lainshaw, James Ritchie of Busby, and
Alexander Spelrs of ElJerslie, each to be noticed on another occasion, John
Glassford of Dougalstone has always been reckoned as one of the merchant
princes who planted the tree of commercial prosperity in Glasgow, and was
happily spared not only to see it spread and flourish, but to enjoy an abundant
store of its rich fruit. And yet neither his origin nor upbringing was in any
way superior to that of hundreds of others who were then tr>'ing to cultivate
such small trade as was carried on in the City. His father, James Glassford,
was a worthy but not wealthy Magistrate and trader in Paisley, and, like many
more in his walk of life, the best aid John ever received towards future greatness,

JOHN GLASSFORD OF DOUGALSTONE. 37

was a fair education at the ancient Grammar School of his native town. A
peaceable man himseir, and engaged in commercial pursuits which should always
tend to peace, Glassford's life touches curiously enough upon some of the
more threatening turbulent occurrences of his day. Born in 1715, a year when
the peace of the country was seriously menaced by a Jacobite " rising " in
favour of the exiled Stuarts, his earliest days corresponded with the period
when Glasgow undertook to send into the field 500 men armed and provisioned,
and also protected the City so skilfully by entrenchments, as to lead to a Royal
recognition for the first time of the chief magistrate {Provost Bowman) as " My
Lord." So much for the old Pretender. While one of Glassford's early
Glasgow residences was the then superb mansion of Whitehill, north from Duke
Street, he latterly, when still more prosperous, purchased the great fabric in
Argyll Street, known as the Shawfield Mansion, which had been so seriously
injured by the malt-tax rioters in 1725 as to warrant compensation money
being paid almost equal in amount to what the owner, Daniel Campbell, paid
for a large portion of the Island of Islay. Here, curiously enough, the old
Pretender's son, Charles Edward, took up his quarters on entering Glasgow
with his ragged, starved, retreating followers, that dismal day after Christmas, 1745.

Again, the revolt of the colonists in Virginia, and ultimate independence
of the States, affected few merchants more seriously than John Glassford, whose
tobacco trade, which this new " rising " ultimately ruined, was amongst the
most extensive in the world. Writing to a friend regarding his appearance
before a committee of the House of Commons, selected to consider the involve-
ments likely to arise through the resistance by colonists to pay claims made
on them by British merchants, William Rouet of Belritero (now Auchindennan,
Lochlomondside), records in February, 1766 — '-I heard Glassford say that
his mere private debts in the colonies amounted to ^£50,000." In connection
with an introduction to the great merclianl, Smollett mentions in " Humphrey
Clinker," the latest of his novels, that during the last war Glassford, whom he
took to be one of the mightiest merchants in Europe, " was said to have had

38 THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

et one dme Sve-and-twenty ships, with their cargoes — ^his own property — and to
have traded for above half-a-million sterling a-year," Great Britain had so much
strife on hand in these days, that " the last war " may be judged as of uncertain
meaning; but as the novel was partly written and published in 1771, it may
have been the expulsion of the French from Lower Canada, when Woife fell
fighting so bravely on the heights of Abraham above Quebec, or the war with
Spain of 1762, when Havana, Trinidad, and Manilla were seized.

Like most other merchants of his time, John Glassford took a deep interest
in the construction of a Canal between the Forth and Clyde, although he was
satisfied it could not be altogether so successful as its more sanguine promoters
represented. For mineral, stone, timber, and general miscellaneous trafiic, its
utility, he thought, could hardly be overrated ; but lie doubted if the manu-
facturers of either Glasgow or Paisley would much avail themselves of that
mode of transit. The cost of cartage to them from point to point appeared
to him as trifling compared to what they were likely to reckon on as possible
damage from water and delay in transhipment, Glassford's corresjwndence
shows him to have been in frequent communication on this subject, and also
on the Scotch paper currency, with his friends William Mm^e of Caldwell, Baron
of Exchequer, ex-Provost Cochrane, Riichie, and Colin Dunlop, Writing in
1762 to Baion Mure, Glassford expressed a hope that when the Earon came
to Glasgow the Canal scheme might be a little riper for judging as to the
expediency of taking any concern with others in carrying out the project.
" I hope then to have the pleasure of seeing yon, and that you will do me
the favour of lodging in my house, as you lately gave me some reason to
expect. You will be entirely at your own freedom. (Signed), John Glassford."
In the course of the year above-mentioned {1763}, Francis, Fifth Lord Napier,
employed two surveyors to examine the ground from Carron at Abbotshaugh,
about two miles from the place where that river discharges itself into the
Forth, to the Clyde at Yoker Burn, about five miles below Glasgow, and his
Lordship likewise caused accounts to be taken of the quantities of goods carried

1

JOHN GLASSFORD OF DOUGALSTONE. 39

betveen the two friths, and of the expense of carriage. In 1764 Smeaton
declared himself strongly in favour of the route now so familiar to travellers
by road and rail, and Lord Dundas, one of the leading promoters of the scheme,
pushed an Act through Parliament for its construction. The works, the most
difficult of the kind undertaken in the kingdom up to that time, were commenced
in 1768, but lack of capital led lo a delay of nearly twenty years, the canal
not being finished till 1790 (by Whitworth, one of Brindley's pupils), when
the opening of the new communicalion between east and west was celebrated
with great rejoicing, the chairman of the Canal Committee, Archibald Speira
of Elderslie, symbolically performing the feat by launching a hogshead of Forth
water into the Clyde at Bowling Bay terminus. It is but right to say that the
name of John Glassford does not appear in the original list of the company
formed under the Act of 1768 to cany out the canal worka. There, however,
will be found John, Earl of Glasgow, George Murdoch, Lord Provost of Glasgow,
James and Richard Oswald, Archibald Stirling, and Patrick Miller of Dalswinton,

Powerful in the City as a "Tobacco Lord" alone — for he might daily be
seen marching in front of the Tontine in his scarlet cloak, with curled wig,
cocked hat, and gold-headed cane — John Glassford had also a large share in
such lucrative concerns as the Cudbear Purple-dye Manufactory, the Pollokshaws
Dyeworks, and the Glasgow Tanwork Company, the largest business of the
kind then known. All these were in addition to his interest as a shareholder
in the Glasgow Arms Bank, established 1753, and the Thistle Bonk, set on
foot some five years later. When Glassford commenced business 00 his own
account in Glasgow about 1740, the population was put down at a little over
17,000, while the Clyde shipping made up an aggregate carrying power of
S,6oo tons, represented by sixty-seven vessels, fifteen of which traded to Virginia,
four to Jamaica, and sLx to London. For some years after the tobacco trade
was opened up by the Union, Glasgow had only one ship of its own, a vessel
of sixty tons, built at Greenock, and the precious weed had to be conveyed
froiQ the Plantations for the most part in vessels built at Whitehaven. Not-

J

43 THE WEST COUyTRY IN HISTOMY.

withstandiiig the pawkj rule bid down bj Balie Xicol Janie abotf 'pKUag
io their ain pocknenk.* so £u as cancaixd liaaie«ade goods far eqartatian,
or at the worst, being aUe to bnjr ^j'^j* ncvdi-cmiitif wares fhwpfT erca
than English merdunts, the princqile^ if dennfaie^ ooold not ah^s be canied
out Dr. Cailyle of JoTcrcsk, a Mtidait far two jcan at the Unireni^ (1743-44))
and a shrewd observer, found that ^dle the duef brandies of txade m daiBDV
then was with Mrginia in tobaicco, and with the West Indies in sogar and
rum, there were often not enoo^ maan&ctnrBd goods eitba in the Ci^ or
Paisley to make up a soitablc cargo to sndi farcin martel^ and far dtak
purpose shippers were obliged to have lecuuiie to Mancfaestg. The -■— •*—■*!,
be admits, were men of hoiHMir, indosti;, and enterprise^ leadf to tene nth
eagerness and prosecute ^-igorously ererr new scheme in cou u uc m e which (vo-
mised success; but manu^tures among tbentsehes were in their infancy, die
single Inkle factory commenced in 1732, and ezteoded in 1743 by the purchase
of land in Ramshora Yard, being shown cautiously to stisngers as a great cmiosity.

The tobacco trade may be said to hare reached the height of its prosperity
in r773 and 1774. In the fiist-mentioned year, when the Clyde shipping was
over (io,ooo tons, thirty-eight Glasgow firms imponed the unprecedented quantity
of 43197" hogsheads {over 35,000 from Virginia), and, with stock-on-hand, were
able to export to Fiance, Holland, and other countries 47.77S hogsheads.
Next year forty-mx firms imported 40.543 hogsheads, and exfoited 34,146, learing
a stock on hand at the close of the year of 6,347 hogsheads, ^iaiters in the
Sutes took a threatening turn in September, when the first Congress assembled
at Philadelphia; but reconciliation with the mother-countiy can hardly be
described as hopeless till April, 1775, when the first blow for independence was
struck at Lexington. In June following Washington was appointed Commander-
in-Chief of the American Continental Army. In October of this eventful year
Franklin requested one of his correspondents to iDform a common friend that
itritain, at an expense of three mUHons, " has lulled 150 Yankees this campaign,
which is /Jao,ooo a-head ; and, at Bunker's Hill, she gained a mile of ground,

JOHN GLASSFORD OF DOUGALSTONE. 41

half of which she again lost by our taking part in Ploughed HilL During the
same time 60,000 children have been born in America. From these data his
mathematical head will easily calculate the time and expense necessary to kill
us all and conquer our whole territory." No foreign force, however brave,
numerous, or well equipped, could strive successfully against the grim deter-
mination here shadowed forth. The tobacco trade in Glasgow was not only
doomed, but, so far as monopoly was concerned, had already become a thing
of the past The leaf or ''weed," it is true, on hand rose first from 3d. to
6d. per lb., and, greatly to the profit of Lainshaw, ultimately to 3s. 6d. per lb.;
but the time was fast hastening when the proud '' Tobacco Lords " could hardly
find their favourite stock in the market at any quotation. Fortunately for
Glasgow, the West Indies at this juncture could be kept open for sugar, as well
as material for the favourite punch beverage, and a powerful impulse was at
the same time given to the mineral and manufacturing industries of the district

John Glassford, as has been mentioned, removed from his pleasant residence
at Whitehill to the more spacious Shawlands mansion in Argyll Street. It had
been built in 1712 by Daniel Campbell of Shawfield, M.P. for the Clyde Burghs
1716-1734, and sacked by the mob in 1725 from resentment at his vote in Par-
liament for extending the malt-tax to Scotland. Campbell, who had acquired
a lai^e fortune through farming the Customs in the Firth of Clyde, was awarded
^6000 as compensation, to be paid by the City from a tax on ale and beer,
and, investing his money in the Islay property, sold the dilapidated Argyll Street
house to M'Dowall of Castle-Semple. Although occupied by the Young Pretender
during his brief, unwelcome visit to Glasgow in 1745, the rooms would never
appear to have been restored to their early splendour, as in 1760 M'Dowall sold
it to Glassford, with all the ground stretching to the Back Cow Loan, now
Ingram Street, for 1700 guineas. Here the enterprising merchant, still in the
prime of life, lived and dispensed a wide hospitality for six or seven years, or
till 1767, when he purchased Dougalstone estate (originally probably Dougal's
town, seat of Dougald of the Lennox family), in New Kilpatrick parish, from

49 THE WEST COUNTRY irf BISTORY.

John Graham, advocate, the representative of a branch of the Montrose family
whose chief residence, before Buchanan House came to be built, was at the old
Castle of Mugdock, near to Dougabtone, although in a different parish. The
east side of New KJlpatrick parish and the west side of Strathblane touch each
other in this neighbourhood, the first being mostly within the county of Dum-
barton, the other in Stirlingsiiire. The mansion-house, which stood upon the
site of the fine new one erected by the present owner, Robert Ker, Esq., merchant,
had been built in 1707 by John Graham, then of Dougalstone. Besides possessing
property m the east end of Glasgow, this branch of the Montrose Family owned
the western suburb of Grahamaton, extending from what is now the south-west
comer of Union Street west to a Utile past Hope Street, and backward to a line
slightly north of Gordon Street. (See paper on Grahamston by C. D. Donald,
Jun., "Glas. ArchKoIogical Pro.," pt. 2, vol. H.) On entering Dougalstone as his
country residence, John Glassford laid out the grounds anew in the most orna-
mental style, and at the same time greatly enlarged tlie mansion. As appears
from a memorial tablet in the western wall of the Ramshorn burying^^ound,
Mr. Glassford was three times married, his last wife being Lady Margaret Mac-
kenzie, daughter of George, last Karl of Cromartie, whose son, James Glassford,
raised an unsuccessful claim to the ancient Cromartie peerage, dormant for a
time, but now held in her own right by Anne, present Duchess of Sutherland.
John Glassford died in Glasgow, August 27th, 1783, aged 68. His son, Henry,
Ut in the Commons for Dumbartonshire, i8o»-6, when he resigned, and again
1807-10, when he was succeeded by Archibald Colquhoun of Killermont, Lord
Advocate of Scotland. Henry (iUssford died unmarried, 19th May, 1819, aged 54.
In 179J he sold the family town mansion of Shawfield to a builder for ;£9,8so.
The fabric, not very old as wc have ocen, but which had experienced strange
vicissitudes, was then removed for the purpose of opening up the well-known
ttrect stretching northward from the junction of Argyle Street with Trongate,
And which now bears the name of tlic greatest merchant of his time.

CATffCAUT AND ITS EAULS. 43

CATHCART AND ITS EARLS.

** I WAS told the other night (wrote Horace Walpole to the Countess of Ossory)
that Lady Cathcart, who is still living, danced lately at Hertford, to show her vigour
at past four score." The Lady Cathcart of that day (1770) was originally Sarah
Malyn, daughter of a Southwark landowner, who married first James Fleet, lord of
the manor of Tewing, Hertfordshire ; secondly. Captain Sabine, also of Tewing;
andy thirdly, in 1739, Charles, eighth Lord Cathcart, whose first wife, and mother
of the ninth Earl, also Charles, had been Marion, only child of Sir John Shaw of
Greenock, an honorary title still enjoyed by the eldest son of the Cathcart
family. In May, 1745, fully four years after the death of her husband. Lord
Charles, at sea, Lady Cathcart, then fifty-four years of age, married Hugh
Macguire, an Irish ofhcer in the Hungarian service, who, alarmed, as her fourth
husband at the suggestive motto round one of her wedding rings — " If I survive,
I shall have five " — took her ladyship over to Ireland, and kept her in confinement
till his death, which, to her great satisfaction, happened in 1764, when she returned
to England, and eight years later, when over four score, showed much of her old
native sprightliness by dancing, as mentioned above, at the Welwyn Assembly.
In the novel of "Castle Rackrent," the Edgeworths published many interesting
particulars regarding the harsh treatment of Lady Cathcart by Colonel Macguire.
She appears to have survived her imprisonment of nearly 20 years by living on in
high spirits for another quarter of a century. Lady Cathcart died 3rd August, 1784,
in her 98th year, having lived under the reign of five English Sovereigns — viz.,
William and Mary, Queen Anne, and Georges I., II., III. It may also be added
that she enjoyed the life-rent of the manor of Tewing for six years over half a
century. She was bom in the year after the Batde of the Boyne, and lived to hear
the first peal of the French Revolution in the taking of the Bastile a fortnight
before her death. Lady Cathcart had no issue by any of her husbands. Her
first alliance, she is said to have remarked, was for the purpose of pleasing her

44 THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

parents ; the second for money ; the third (with Lord Cathcart) for title ; and the
fourth, with the fortune-hunting Hibernian, " because the de^il owed me a grudge,
and must punish me for my sins."

This Charles, the eighth Lord Cathcart, born in 1686, or five years before his
second wife, who survived him nearly 50 years, came of an old distinguished slock,
who, taking their title from the pleasant lands south of Glasgow, marking the
junction of North Lanark with East Renfrewshire, won high distinction in
countries far removed from their own as servants of the Crown. So early as 1178
Rainaldus de Kethcart (Cart Castle), founder of the house, was witness to a
charter by Alan, son of Walter the Steward, " dapifer regis " of the patronage of
the church of Kathcart to the monastery of Paisley. A succeeding Sir Alan of
Cathcart gave Bruce unwavering support throughout all the fierce struggle for
independence. At Loudonhill, where Pembroke was defeated in 1307, he was next
year with Edward Bruce in Galloway, and joined in the engagement against St.
John, Barbour writes of

"A knifilil that then was on his rout,
Worthy and wight, stalwart and stout;
Courteous and fair, and of good fame,
Sir Alan Cathcart was his name."

The wife of a modem descendant, as we have seen, look to herself four husbands
in succession, so Sir Alan's wife, of the house of Wallace of Sundrum, was fourth
husband of Eleanor Bruce, Countess of Carrick. A grandson, another Alan, the
first Lord Cathcart, added largely to the family estate by the purchase or gift of
property in Ayrshire — Auchincruive being obtained in 1465, while Dundonald,
with the keepership of the Royal Castle there, was granted by James IIL
in 1482. The ancient fortress of the family overlooking the Cart, and of
which a ruined ivy-covered tower above the village is now all that remains, is
thought to date as far back at least as the early part of the fourteenth century.
With walls about ten feet in thickness throughout, loop-holed windows, and lofty

C ATM CART AND ITS EARLS.

45

battlements, Cathcart Castle not only gave a secure shelter to the inmates with
such "gear, plenishing, and supplies" as was deemed essential to a household in
these unsettled times, but its position as a watch-tower, overlooking the pleasant
valley below, now studded with evidences of industry and comfort, made it serve a
purpose favouring the peace of the country lor miles around. On a neighbouring
eminence, now known as Camphill, wilhiti two miles northward, and also, like
Cathcart, overlooking Langside, traces still exist of another stronghold, older far
than the age of Bruce or Wallace; older even, there is some reason for thinking,
than the period of Roman occupation in Scotland, and dating, in all probability,
back to a time in Caledonian history impossible to illustrate by any other memorial
than is furBished in its own design and manner of construction.

Successors to Alan, first Lord Cathcart, were his grandson, John, second
Lord, and father of three sons (slain with their Sovereign at the fatal field of
Flodden) ; Alan, killed at Pinkie, 1547— a year after he had conveyed the lordship
to a kinsman connected with the Sempill family ; and another Alan, fourth Lord,
one of the Reforming nobles, who sallied out with his vassals to fight for the
Regent Murray on his own ancestral domain of Langside, where, ftora a site still
I)ointed out by tradition as " Court Knowc," within the shadow of the old castle
walls. Queen Mary saw her last array of armed men beaten back in confusion by
baroQs like Cathcart, who waged wnr against her in name of the infant King.
Three other Alans of the family, less prominent tlian predecessors in public affairs,
brings the family pedi^jree down to Charles, eighth Lord Cathcart, already
mentioned as son of the seventh Earl, by Elizabeth Dabymple, second daughter of
James, first Viscount Stair, and Margaret Ross of Balneil, Wigtownshire, the
reputed original of Scoti's I,ady Ashton, mother of the " Bride of Lammermoor."
Born in 1686, Earl Charles wiis trained early for military service, and obtaining a
captain's commission when only seventeen years of age, passed across to Flanders,
where he obtained a company in Macartney's regiment, and rapid promotion
afterwards under his relative John, second Earl of Stair, then engaged with the
allies against France in the war of the Spanish Succession. Colonel Cathcart

4«

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

joined Argyll's forces during Mar's "rising" of 1715, and, as might have been
eitpected, rendered efficient service on the doubtful field of Sheriffmuir, Later in
life (1740), and eight years after he had succeeded his father as eighth in succession
to the honours of the house, I^rd Chades was appointed Commander-in-Chief of
the British forces sent out to attack tlie Spanish dominions in South America.
About two months after leaving Spiihead he was seized with sudden illness, and
died at sea, as already mentioned, being buried on the beach of Prince Rupert's
Bay, Dominica, where a monument was erected to the memory of the gallant
soldier. By his first marriage with Marion, only daughter and heiress of Sir John
Shaw of Greenock, Lord Cathcart had, besides other sons and daughters, Charies,
who succeeded as ninth Lord, famous as any of his family for services in the field
and as a diplomatist at foreign Courts. Earl Cathcart's second wife, by whom he
had no issue, was the Mrs. Sabine, or Malyn, referred to in the opening sentence of
this article. The young Earl Charles, for he was only 19 years of age when he
Bucceeded his father, served under Stair at Dettingen, and under Cumberland at
Fontenoy, where he was severely wounded, and his only brother, Shaw Cathcart,
slain. Present and active on the field of CuUoden, his Lordship was next year at
Laffeldt, where he was wounded once more ; and within a few months passed to the
Court of France, where he resided as one of the hostages for t!ie delivery of Cape
Breton to Louis XV,, under that Treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle which concluded the
war of the Austrian Succession, waged originally between Marie Theresa and
Frederick IL of Prussia, afterwards known as Frederick the Great. On returning
home, Lord Cathcart, who was then promoted to the rank of colonel, represented
the King for many years in succession as Lord High Commissioner to the General
Assembly, and in 1763 was invested with the Order of the Thistle, having two
years earlier been appointed Governor of Dumbarton Castle. In 1768 at a critical
point of the struggle between Russia and Turkey, Lord Cathcart was appointed
Ambassador Extraordinary to the Court of St, Petersburg, where he resided for
three years. Lord Charles died, August, 1776, aged not more than 56 years ; but
over thirty of which had been spent in active service at home or abroad. Lady

1

CATHCART AND ITS EARLS.

47

Cathcart was Jane, daughter of Lord Archibald Hamilton of Riccarton and
Pardovan, sister of Sir William Hamilton, K.B., eminent as an antiquarian and
art collector, who married the beautiful but humble-born Emma Haite, famous
afterwards for her connection with Lord Nelson. Lady Cathcart bore a family of
nine children — five sons and four daughters — William Shaw becoming tenth lord,
and a younger brother, the Hon. Charles Alan, serving with distinction in America
and in India, being especially prominent on duty against the French in the trenches
at Cuddalore. Charles Alan, like his grandfather, died at sea, being overtaken
with a fatal illness in the Straits of Banca, on his way to open up commercial
intercourse with China, under instructions from the East India Company, He was
then (1783) only 29 years of age. Of the daughters, the eldest, Jane, became
Duchess of Athol, The next daughter was that Mary destined to become famous,
not only for her beauty and accomplishments, but whose early death, in 1792, led
her husband, Thomas Graham of Balgowan, to temper his sharp sorrow, by
throwing himself at middle age into that military career in which he became for
ever famous as Lord Lynedoch, \ictor of Barossa, and otherwise one of the ablest
of Wellington's lieutenants, as he proved at Victoria, San Sebastian, and the
Bidassoa. William Shaw, tenth Lord Cathcart, also won high honour for services
in the field, his most prominent achievement being the bombardment of
Copenhagen in the summer of 1807, when the Danish fleet, with its wealth of
ammunition and stores, was seized and brought to England. Before the year had
closed he was elevated to the British peerage as Baron Greenock of Greenock, and
Visrounl Cathcart of Cathcart, the higher title of Earl following in 1814, after his
return from a special mission to St, Petersburg. Full of years and honours — he
was 88— yet vigorous, the Earl passed away in June, 1843, being at the lime senior
General in Her Majesty's service. His eldest son, William, who commenced a
naval career under Nelson in the Medusa frigate, died young, from yellow fever, at
Jamaica, nearly forty years before his father. The succession thereby passed to
the second son, Charles Murray Cathcart, who became eleventh Baron and second
EarL As Lord Greenock, he served with the army in Ireland, the Mediterranean,

48 THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

at Flushing, and through most of the Peninsular war, till AVaterloo, where he was
present and look part in the action. Soon after succeeding to the Earldom, he
was appointed Commander-in-Chief of the forces in Canada, and Colonel of the
3rd Dragoon Guards. Dying in July, 1859, Earl Charles was succeeded by his -
son, Alan Frederick, Lord Greenock, the present Earl of Cathcart, born 1828, and
married, 1 850, Elizabeth Mary, eldest daughter and co-heiress of the late Sir Samuel
Crompton, Batt., vrith issue five sons and five daughters. Frederick, third son of
the first Earl, served in the Scots Greys, was present with his father at the
surrender of Copenhagen, and brought home the despatches relating thereto. He
married Jane, daughter of Quentin Macadam of Craigengillan, AjTshiie, taking
thereafter the additional surname of Macadam. The fourth and youngest son of
Earl Charles was the well-known Sir George Cathcart, who served with his
father in Germany and France, being also present at Quatre-Bras as aide-de-camp
to the Duke of Weliington, Sir George commanded at the Cape in 1851, but on
the breaking out of the Crimean War became Lieut.-General of Fourth Division of
the British army, and, to the regret of all who knew him, fell fighting at Inkermann
on a hill which has since borne the name of the brave soldier,

About the lands of Cathcart, it may be thought proper to say a word or two.
The parish itself, as arranged in modern times, makes up portions of two counties,
Renfrewshire east, Lanarkshire west, and includes the pleasant districts, suburban
lo Glasgow, of Langsidc, already referred to. Mount Florida, Crossmyloof, New
Cathcart, and Prospect Hill. The territory originally formed part of the extensive
estates conferred by David I. on Walter, founder of the house of Stewart, before
the middle of the twelfth century. The church with all its pertinents passed to
the Monastery of Paisley, and remained under the control of that richly-endowed
religious house till the Reformation, when the monastic possessions were broken
up, with the exception of that portion sold about 1546 by Alan, third Lord
Cathcart, lo his wife's kinsman, Gabriel Sempill of Ladymuir. In this branch 01
the Sempills, the lands then known as Cathcart, although shorn of their original
extent, continued till about 173O) when they were sold to John Maxwell of

CATHCART AND ITS EARLS 49

Williamwood. Towards the close of the century the old family possessions were
slill further broken up, the castle and principal messuage being acquired by James
Hill, from whom in 1801 they appropriately passed by purchase to the first Earl
Charles, who afterwards added the property of Symshill, another portion of the
original Cathcarl estate. Regarding the dale when the old castle was reared on
the steep height above the Cart nothing is known, and conjecture therefore useless.
For probably 500 years at least, we may repeal, the original square tower fixjwned
over the valley below, and afforded protection not only to its inmates, but to the
fruitful gardens round about, of which mention is made by various writers. So
strong and thick were the walls, that the systematic attempt made to demolish it
about the middle of last century had to be abandoned in despair. Not far from
the castle stands Cathcart Cottage, the modern residence of the family, and where
some sbity years since there was built into the front wall a sculptured stone,
removed from Sundrum, showing the arms of Cathcart quartered with those of Stair,
indicating the marriage connection already referred to between Alan, seventh Lord,
and Elizabeth Dalrymple, daughter of Viscount Stair. Dull and polluted as the White
Cart now is in many of its reaches, it flows through Cathcart parish amid scenes of
natural beauty, well fitted to suggest pleasant memories to poets like Grahame, of
"The Sabbath," and Thomas Campbell, who had each played on its banks. The
poet of " Hope " almost becomes the poet of " Memory " when he recalled those

" Scenes of my childhood, so dear to my lieart.
Ve green wiving woods hy ihc margin of Citt ;
How blest in the morning of life have I strayed,
Bj the stream of Ihe vatc, and the grass-covered glade.

But hosh'd be Ihe sigh that untimely complains.
While Friendship and all its encbantment remains,
While it blooms like the flower of a winterless clime.
Untainted by chance, unabated by time."

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

THE STEVARTS OF COLTNESS AND
ALLANTON.

Few properties in the upper Ward of Lanarkshire, or, indeed, few properties
in any part of the county, have continued to present in our own time so much
of their early sylvan amenity as Coltness, and this, altliough surrounded in
every direction with coal and iron works, sending out continuously suggestive
if not attractive evidence of the mineral wealth being wrought beneath the
surface. Within Cam'nethan parish, but on its extreme northern limit, where
the winding South Calder divides it from Sholts, Coltness passed through the
Somervilles to the Logans of Restalrig, and from them to the Slcuarts, at a time
when coal and iron were in but little use, and not dreamt of in the way of a
national industty, as the term is now understood. The Jacobite Laird of the
family, too gracious with the Prince at Holyrood, returned from an eighteen
years' exile in 1763 to cultivate his favourite science of political economy in
the pleasant shades of Coltness — a harmless pursuit varied frequently by a
personal superintendence of improvements made in his time on the paternal
acres and the pleasant mansion they still surround. His son, General Sir James,
educated for the most part abroad during the period of exile, was guilty of two
serious errors during his long life— an expensive intimacy with George IV.
and the Duke of York, and a zeal surpassing even the zeal of his father for
agricultural improvements. Between the constant hospitality of a great country-
house and the usual results of gentleman- farming on a wide scale. Sir James
contrived to dissipate the whole of the goodly inheritance that had devolved on
him. He died a landless man at Cheltenham; but it is recorded he appeared
unconscious of what had occurred as to his worldly fortunes, and might be seen
now and then marking trees in the Long Walk of the Old Spa, as if he were
stiU at Coltness. — ("Qr. Rev.," vol. 70, p. 37a.) This Sir James, the last in the

THE STEUARTS OF COLTNESS AND ALLANTON. 51

direct line of Coltness, was bom so far back as 1744, the year preceding that
which wrought his father so much trouble, and when he died in 1839, at the great
age of 95, was, as colonel of the Scots Greys, the senior general ofEcer in Her
Majesty's service. He is not yet quite forgotten as the inventor of certain improved
tactics in cavalry warfare. His cousin. Sir Henry B. Steuarl, of CoUaimie,
Fifeshire, succeeded as fifth Baronet of Coltness, the property itself passing,
by purchase, in 1842 lo Thomas Houldswortb then M.P, for Nollingham. Mr.
Houldsworth died in 1851, when Coltness went first to his eldest brother,
William, then to Henry, father of another Henry, at whose death, in i868,
the property passed to its present owner, James Houldsworth, Esq., bom 1825.
(See W. Promphrey's "Old Lairds of Coltness." Wishaw, 1879.)

The adjoining property of Allanton (or AUerton), another possession of
a stil! more ancient branch of the house of Steuart, was long the seat of Sir
Henry, of the name, celebrated for his skill as an arboriculturist, and as the
first who practised on any considerable scale the art of transplanting trees, with
a success which even to an experienced planter like Sir Walter Scott appeared
almost marvellous. Sir Henry was enabled to cover a whole park at once with
groups and single trees, combined with copse and underwood of various sizes, all
disposed in exquisite taste. Independent in circumstances, as has been mentioned,
and attached by taste and habits to rural pursuits. Sir Henry resided for the
most part at Allanton, to which, little distinguished by nature, his wonderful
exertions gave within a comparatively short period of time all the beauty that
could, according to the usual modes of improvement, have been conferred in
the course of forty tedious years. The soil naturally is described as moorish,
and the view from the front of the house must, before it was clothed with wood,
have consisted of irregular swells and slopes, presenting certainly no striking
features either of grandeur or beauty— probably "just not ugly."

Allanton was visited by many intelligent judges disposed to inquire with
sufficient minuteness into the reality of the changes effected there, and so far as
an opportunity was affotded for knowing, the uniform testimony of those visitors

THE WEST CO UNTR Y IN HISTOR Y.

corresponded with the account given by Sir Henry Steuart himself. Rather over
sixty years since, or in September, 1823, a committee of gentlemen, supposed to
be well acquainled with country matters, was appointed by the Highland Society to
inquire into the management of Allanton plantations, particularly with reference
to (i) single trees and open groups on lawn which might appear to have suffered
from the operation of transplanting; (a) inclosed groups or masses of wood
planted together ; and (3) the cost of transplanting. From the facts which they
witnessed the committee reported it as their unanimous opinion that the art of
transplantation, as practised by Sir Henry Steuart, was calculated to accelerate in
an extraordinary degree the power of raising wood, whether for beauty or shelter.
The committee consisted of Robert, eiglith Lord Belhaven ; Sir Archibald
Campbell of Succolh, Sir Walter Scott, George Cranstoun (afterwards Lord
Corehouse), and Alexander Young of Harbum, Five years later, or in 1828,
Sir Henry published his " Planters' Guide," describing in detail the measures em-
ployed by the author to anticipate in such a wonderful manner the march of time,
and " to force, as it were, his woodlands in somewhat the same manner as the
domestic gardener forces his fruits, upsetting thereby the old saying, ' Heu ! male
transfertur senio cum indumit arbor?'" Sir Henry, son of James, tenth baron of
Allanton, was created a baronet of the United Kingdom, 1814, with remainder
to his son-in-law, Reginald Macdonald of Staffa, who succeeded as second baronet
on the death of Sir Henry in March, 1836, and whose son, the present Sir Henry
James Seton Steuart, is now the third in descent of the new Allanton creation, and
represents, besides the Setons of Touch, hereditary armour-bearers to the
Sovereign and squire of the Royal body. The learned author of "The Planters'
Guide" was an F.R.S., an LL.D,, and well known among scholars for his edition of
"Sallust." He died, as has been just mentioned, in 1836, aged 77. The area of
Allanton is put down at 3,673 acres, and the rental at ;^4,076, fully one-half being
for minerals.

But it is now necessary to say something of an earlier member or two of the
house of Coltness than any yet noticed. The first of the line was Sir Jtunes

i

THE STEUARTS OF COITNESS AND ALLANTOIC. 5J

Steuart, merchant, and Provost of Edinburgh, 1649-50, and who, although a strait
and rather intolerant Presbyterian, protested against the execution of Charles I. but
presided officially at that of Montrose. He is said by the family genealogist to have
treated the illustrious victim with personal courtesy and decorum, rebuking even
"the grim Geneva ministers " for their savage rudeness on the scaffold. All this,
however, did not save him at the Restoration from being fined and imprisoned as
"stiflT and pragmatic" The family genealogist, indeed, admits with a kind of
stem satisfaction thai it was lucky for the Provost he was confined in Edinburgh
CasUe when the rash insurrection of Pentland Hill took place. His domestic
chaplain, the youthful Hugh M'Kail, was prominent among the leaders of the
outbreak, and being seized armed on his way to Libberton, was subjected to the
form of trial then gone through, put to the torture of the " boot," condemned
and executed, two grandsons of Provost Steuart attending him to the place of
execution at the Cross of Edinburgh, and receiving his Bible from the youthful
martyr (he was only 26), a memorial long treasured al Coltncss,

When Sir James turned his attention to the Collness property, within two
miles of bis elder brother's hereditary lairdship of Allanton, the lands were
described as having " a convenient little tower-house, freehold of the Crown
and giving a vote at elections." Obtaining his liberty by paying a fine so heavy
as almost to ruin his estate, the old knight paid a brief visit to Coltness during
his last illness, when well advanced in years. At Muiryet, a rising ground about
two miles east from Allanton, where he had often halted, he is recorded to have
turned his horse, looked around, and remarked, "Westsheild, Camewath Church,
and I-anrick, my early home and haunts, farewell 1 Alertoun, Coltness, and
Cambusnethan Church, my later abodes, farewell ! ye witnesses of my best spent
time, and of my devotions ! Tis long since I bid lo the vanities of the world adieu."
Sir James died soon after, and was interred with honour as one of the Fathers of
the City in Greyfriars' Churchyard.

The eldest son. Sir Thomas, or " Gospel Coltness," as he came to be called,
made great additions to the old tower, and otherwise added to the beauty of the

THE WEST COUNTRY IN BISTOSY.

grounds ; but his ital as a Coirenanler «o &r imperiUerf the family estate u to
nuke ttim flee to Holland, from which country be was pennitted to retnm in
poverty {t6^6) through the good offices of WDHna PeoB, wt» had nude hit
acquaintance at the Hagi^e. A yoiu^er lirother, James Stnunt, more compliant,
rOK to eminence at the bar, filling, as he did, the post of an Under Secretary of
State and of Lord-Adrocalc from 1693 till his deaih in 1713. The "Gospd"
laird's tine failing in the person of Sir Archibald, family genealogist, the
honours fell on ihc lawyer's descendant, James Denham Steuart, of Goodtrees,
already referred to as involved in the Jacobite rising of 1745, influenced a good
deal, it is believed, by his wife. Lady Frances, a daughter of the Earl of Wemyss,
and lifter of the attainted Lord Elcho. Sir James was well known in his day as a
lawyer and political economist — thought, indeed, by many to have anticipated
principle« laid down by Adam Smith in the latter department of knowledge. His
reputation a« one of the founders of the modem science of political economy,
symptonsof regret for rashness in 1745,03 also for his subsequent scheming at
the French Court, and the general appreciation of the amiable qualities of Lady
Frances and himself in private life, procured for him a free pardon from George
in., in 1763, when he relumed to Coltness, to live in retirement, after an exile of
18 years. Sir James's works, complete in six vols., were published in 1805 by his
•on, General Steuart, who also published in 1818, at Greenock, the correspondence
between his father and Lady Mary Wortley Montague, whom he had met at
Venice in 1758.

A DAUGHTER OF THE HOUSE OF COLTNESS.

Lkarnzd OB Sir James Stewart was in his day, his books, on the whole, now
interest readers leas than that "Diary" of home and foreign travel left by his
sister, wife of Mr. Caldcrwood of PoUon, a gentleman of moderate estate in
Mid-Lothian, Her mother was a daughter of Lord-President Daliymple, created
Viscount Stair, so that ihe was niece of that other daughter of the Lord-

A DAUGHTER OF THE HOUSE OF COLTNESS. 55

President, famous in history and romance as the "Bride of Lammennoor," Mrs,
Calderwood's own sister, Agnes Stewart, was married in 1739 to Henry David,
tenth Earl of Duchan, and mother, therefore, of the eccentric Earl David, and
his two celebrated brothers, Henry and Lord Erskine. Earl David, the story goes,
enlarging on one occassion to the Duchess of Gordon regarding the abilities of
his family — "Yes (sharply remarked her Grace), yes, my Lord, I have always
heard that the wit came by the mother's side, and was settled on the younger
branches." Mrs, Calderivood was also grandmother of Admiral Sir Philip Calder-
wood Durham, G.C.B., a naval officer who saw much service in his day, and at
his death full of years, in April, 1845, was thought to be the last surviving officer.
if not the last of all the crew, of the "Royal George," sunk at Spithead in 1781,
the year he joined the great but unfortunate ship as one of the four lieutenants
saved. But to the "Diary" of Mrs Calderwood, the record of a carriage journey
to London, undertaken with her husband in 1756, for the purpose of visiting
her brother, the political economist, then taking the waters of Aix-la-Chapelle.
Mrs. Calderwood, who appeared to have managed all the business of the road,
although never on the Continent, most likely never out of Scotland before, had, as
her lather's daughter, been brought up in the best of Edinburgh Society, and
was in addition naturally of a quick, lively, observing disposition. It is her quaint
audacity, her narrow prejudices, national as well as personal, her lofty preference
for everything Scottish as against England or the Conrinent, and her shrewd,
sarcastic, self-complacent readiness, which makes her "Diary" one of the most
delightful records known of travel or criticism by a lady who had strong "views"
about ail her experiences and all persons she saw or conversed with.

The route was the familiar east road from Edinburgh to London, by way of
Dunbar, Berwick, Durham, York, and Stamford. The couple travelled in their
own post-chaise, attended by John Rattray, a steady serving-man, on horseback,
with pistols in his holsters and a good broad-sword at his belt. There was also a
case of pistols in the carriage, which it has been shrewdly fancied the lady,
notwithstanding the mild and elegant countenance hanging on Polton walls, would

56

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

have been more likely to make fit use, had there been any occasion for it, than the
worthy laird with his pocket Horace. The party does not appear to have been
encumbered by any Abigail or lady-attendant. From i3 to 14 hours were occupied
with each day's travel. At Durham, Mrs. Calderwood gives indisputable evidence
that she had never passed the threshold of any place of worship where Christian
people kneel when they pray, or think it more decent to stand than to ait when they
sing psalms.

June 6, it is recorded — "We dined at Durham, and I went to see the
Cathedral ; it is a prodigious bulky building. It was on Sunday, betwixt sermons,
and in the piazzas (cloisters) there were several boys playing at ball. I asked the
girl that attended me if it was the custom for the boys to play at ball on Sunday ?
She said, 'They play on other days as well as on Sundays.' She called her
mother to show me the church, and I suppose, by my questions, the woman took
me for a heathen, as I found she did not know of any other mode of worship but
her own ; so, that she might not think the bishop's chair defiled by my sitting down
in it, I told her I was a Christian, though the way of worsliip in my country
diflered from hers. In particular, she stared when I asked what the things were
that they kneeled upon, as they appeared to me to be so many Cheshire cheeses,
I asked the rents of the lands about Durham, and was told by the landlord they
were so dear he had no farm, for they let at 30s, or 40s. per aiker near that toun;
that a cow was from £^i, to £fi sterling, and they gave (at the best) about eight

Scots pints per day. Tiiat night we lay at Northallertoun I could

have little conversation with the people I saw, for though they could have
understood me, I did not them, and never heard a more barbarous language, and
unlike English as any other lingo. I suppose it is the custom in a publick-house
for strangers to roar and bully, for I found when I spoke softly they had all the
appearance of being deaf. I think the Cathedral of Durham is the most ridiculous
piece of expense I ever saw— to keep up such a pageantry of idle fellows in a
country place, where there is nobody either to see or join with them, for there was
not place for above 50 folks besides the performers."

J

A DAUGHTER OF THE HOUSE OF COLTNESS. S7

Again— "Any of the English folks I got acquainted wiih I liked very well They
seem to be good-natured and humane ; but still there is a sort of ignorance about
thctn wth regard to the rest of the world, and their conversation runs in a.
very narrow channell. They speak with a great relish of their publick places, and
say, with a sort of flutter, that they shall to Vauxhall and Ranelagh, but do not
seem to enjoy it when there, As for Vauxhall and Ranelagh, I wrote
you my oppinion of ihem before. The first, 1 think, but a vulgar sort of
entertainment, and could not judge myself in genleel company, whiles I heard a
man calling, 'Take care of your watches and pockets.' I saw the Countess of
Coventry at Ranelagh. I think she is a pert, stinking-like hussy, going about
with her face up to the sky, that she might see from under her hat, which she had
pulled quite over her nose that nobody might see her face. She was in dishabile, and
very shabby drest, but was painted over her very jaw-bones." [The editor of Mrs.
Calderwood's "Journal," the late James Dennistoun of Dennistoun, makes no
particular mention of this " pert hussy," but it may be well for the reader to keep
in mind that the Countess of Coventry, whom the good lady encountered, was none
other than Maria, one of the three " beautiful Miss Gunnings," married four years
previously to George William, sixth Earl, These kdies will come across us again
in connection with the Hamilton and Argyll Families.] " I saw only three English
Peers, and I think you could not make a tolerable ene out of them. , , I saw
very few, either men or women, tolerably handsome. . . The ladies pass and
repass each other with very little appearance of being acquainted, and no company
separates or goes from those they come in with, or joins another, and, indeed, they
all seem to think there is no great entertainment; but, however, they are
there, and that is enough. ... I went one morning to the park in hopes to
see the Duke— 'Culioden' Cumberland, son of George II.— review a troop of
the Horse Guards, but he was not there. The Guards were very pretty. Sail
Slackwood and Miss Buller were with me; they were afraid to push near for the
crowd, but I was resolved to get forward, so pushed in. They were very surly;
and one of them asked me where I would be; would I have my toes trode off?

^

TBE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

'is your toes trode off?' said I. 'No,' said he. 'Theu give me your place,
and m take care of my toes/ 'But they are going to fire,' said he. 'Then
it 'a time for you to march off,' said I ; ' for I can stand fire. I \t'ish your troops
may do as well.' On which he sneaked off, and gave me his place. I paid
BOmc visits, and went to see Greenwich Hospital, which is a ridiculous fine thing.
The view is very pretty, which you see just as well in a rary-show glass. No
wonder the English are transported with a place they can see about them.

" Kensintoun Palace looks better within than without, and there is some very
fine marbles, pictures, and mirrors in it But I could not see the private apartment
of the old goodman [George II.] which they say is a great curiosity. There are a
small bed with silk curtains, two saltin qutlts and no blanket, a hair mattress ; a
plain wicker basket stands on a table, with a silk night-gown and night-cap on it ;
a candle with an extinguisher; some billets of wood on each side of the fire. He
goes to bed alone, rises, lights his fire and mends it himself, and nobody knows
when he rises, which is very early, and is up several hours before he calls anybody.
He dines in a small room adjoining, in which there is nothing but very common
things. He sometimes, they say, sups with his daughters and their company,
and is verry mery, and sings French songs, but at present he is in very low spirits.
Now, this appearance of the King's manner of living would not diminish my idea
of a king. It rather looks as if he applied to business, and knew these hours were
the only ones he could give up to it without having the appearance of a recluse,
and that he submitted to the pagantry rather than make it his only business."

Mrs. Calderwood on English dinners is especially notable as well as
quotable : — " As for their viclualls they make such a work about, I cannot enter
into the taste of them, or rather, I think they have no taste to enter into. The
meat is juicy enough, but has so little taste, that, if you shut your eyes, you will
not know by either taste or smell what you are eating. The lamb and veall look
ts if it had been blanched in water. The smell of dinner will never intimate
that it is on the table. No such effluvia as beef and cabbage was ever found at
London." [Alas 1 alafll] "The fish, I think, have the same faulL As for the

ANDREW STUART OF TORRANCE AND CASTLEMILK.

59

salmond, I did not meddle with it, for it cut like cheese. Their turbet is very
small by ours, but I do not think it preferable. Their soil is much smaller, and
not so much meat on them ; they are like the least ever you saw ; were it not that
they are long and narrow, I should think them common flounders. Their lobsters
come from Norway or Scotland."

The views of Mrs. Calderwood on the future of Scottish trade may excite a
smile among Glasgow merchants and shipbuilders, particularly as coming from
the pen of one whose brother was a master in the principles and exposition of
political economy :—"' Most of the reproaches our country meets with can only
be the want of inquiry or reflection. I once thought that Scotland might carry
on a greater trade than it does, from its advantageous situation for the sea; but if
they should import, who is to take it off their hands? There is no country
behind ihem to supply who has not the advantage of seaports, which is the case
of Holland, who has all Germany to supply ; neither have they a great demand at
home, like England, which is a great country, and most part of it inland, that must
be supplied from the trading towns on the coast. Or to what country can they
transport their merchandise, when they have imported more than serves them-
selves, that cannot be as cheap served by nearer neighbours ? They have no East
India goods, which are almost the only goods that are demanded by all the world;
so that no country which has not one or more of these advantages can ever become
a country of great trade."

ANDREW STUART OF TORRANCE AND
CASTLEMILK.

Prominent as he was in his day, influential too, and useful withal, Andrew Stuart
of Torrance almost requires a process of restoration to be made familiar to
present-day readers. To all Scotland, and England too, for the matter of that,

6o

THE WEST COUNTRY IN niSTORY.

he was known in his own time as an accomplished lawyer of indefatigable industry
and of undaunted courage, as a poUtician unswerving to the princi])les he professed,
and, as a member of society, distinguished by birth and education. Andrew Stuart
was indeed no common man. He carried two elections for his native county of
Lanark ; he was Keeper of the Signet, and Commissioner of Trade and
Plantations ; he fought a duel with a lawyer so eminent as Thurlow, afterwards
Lord Chancellor j and he was an exact historian and antiquary, when neither
branch of learning was cultivated with exactness or even with thoughtfulness. But
it was in the great " Douglas Cause " he won his spurs, and with this stupendous
Inw-plea his name must remain for ever associated as the supreme working agent
in the interest of the infant Duke of Hamilton and his guardians. That he was
unsuccessful in the final Court of resort militates nothing against the prudent zeal
and weighty knowledge of the agent on whose shoulders the Case against the house
of Douglas largely rested. Lord Mansfield himself, "long enough his country's
pride," did not quail more under the envenomed attacks of Junius than under the
brisk fire of Stuart directed by common sense, and arising from a knowledge of the
Case far more profound than his own, Chief-Justice though he was. Although
considerable obliquy was incurred in high quarters during the progress of the suit,
men like Dunning, Wedderbum, and Adam Ferguson did not fail to do justice to
the high honour and the gallant zeal, almost romantic in its self-denial, with which
the Hamilton agent carried on the case through its intricate windings and varied
fortunes. Second son of Archibald of Torrance (who was the seventh son of
Alexander), by Elizabeth, daughter of Sir Andrew Myreton of Gogar, Andrew
Stuart wag educated for the law, and passed as a W.S., or Writer to the Signet,
r759. He early secured official notice, fully as much, however, from his own
ability as from the accident of his connection with a branch not far removed from
the main stem of the ancient Royal house of Scotland. Having for some years
carried through much of the Edinburgh business connected with the Hamilton
estates, it was found, on the early and unexpected death of James, sixth Duke, in
March, 1758, that Mr. Stuart was named in his settlement as one of the guardians

ANDREW STUART OF TORRANCE AND CASTLEMILK.

of his son, James George, seventh Duke, then only three years old, and he
naturally fell thereby to be the chief agent in carrying on the business portion of
the trust The other guardians were the wife of the deceased Duke, or Dowager-
Duchess as she came to be called {the second of the three " beautiful" Misa
Gunnings, mother of the boy, and afterwards Duchess of Argyll, and mother of the
sixth and se\enih Dukes of that house) ; Alexander, sixth E^l of Galloway j and
William Mure of Caldwell, aflern-ards a Baron of Exchequer. " Ah ! that
baron Mure," threatened the Duchess of Douglas on one occasion, and, shaking
her dainty little fist in the air, as if in the face of the guardian of her antagonist —
" Ah ! that Baron Mure, if I catch him, I '11 mak' him as barren a rouir as ony in
Scotland" On the death of Archibald, first and only Duke of Douglas, in July,
1761, a somewhat eccentric old nobleman, who had married Miss Margaret
Douglas, of Mains, laie in life, but left no issue, the guardians of Archibald
Stewart, a reputed surviving son of his sister. Lady Jane Douglas, proceeded
without delay to vest him in the feudal right of his uncle's estate by getting him
served heir of entai! before a jury of competent witnesses. The case was one of
unusual delicacy, clear proof being required that Archibald Stewart, then 13 years
of age, was a surviving twin bom in Paris when his mother, the deceased Lady
Jane, was 50 years of age. The jury found in favour of Lady Jane's reputed son,
who soon after completed his title by a charier from the Crown, and thereupon
entered formally into possession of the wide Douglas estates in Lanarkshire,
Renfrewshire, and other counties. Dissatisfied with the verdict of the jury, the
guardians of the Duke of Hamilton resolved to investigate the matter thoroughly
in his interest, and also of his brother. Lord Douglas Hamilton, as heirs-male of
the Duke of Douglas through his great-great-grandfather, Lord Selkirk. Andrew
Stuart now commenced his researches in earnest ; nor was he long in submitting
important results to his brother guardians. His discoveries appeared to himself and
his colleagues to amount to nothing short of a proof that the whole slory of the
pretended birth, as set forth in the service of Mr. Douglas, was an absolute fraud ;
and in December, 1762, an action was raised in the Criminal Department of the

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

Parlmment of Paris, accusing Sir John Stewart of Grandtully, husband of Lady
Jane, and Mrs. Hewitt, her travelling companion, of the crime ot partus suppoiitto,
ot procuring false children when in France. This action was taken secretly
against Sir John, and the witnesses bound over to give evidence in Scotland, while
the charge, being of a criminal nature, precluded him from interfering in favour of
his son. As instructed by Stuart, the Hamilton lawyers now look up the position
that Lady Jane was never confined at all; in particular, that she was not con-
iined in the house or in the presence of Madame La Brunne, inasmuch as no
such person existed ; and that there was imposture, mystery, and concealment
regarding the movements of all the principal parties in and around Paris during the
July of 1748. Stuart was also able to establish on indubitable evidence the
all-important fact that two children, answering to the description of the twins,
were stolen from their parents in Paris on or about the date in question. In due
course, in the summer of 1767, the great "Cause" came before the Court of
Session, or " The Fifteen," as it was commonly called, the " advising " taking up
seven days in July. On the 15th the Court gave judgment, when seven voted on
each side. Lord-President Dundas thereupon gave his casting vote in favour of
the pursuer, the Duke of Hamilton. Among the lawyers engaged at one time or
another in the case, besides many elevated to the Bench during its progress, ivere,
for the pursuer, Andrew Crosbie, the reputed original of Scott's " Counsellor
Pieydell," Sir Adam Ferguson, Sir David Dalrymple, afterwards Lord Hailes, and
Thomas Miller, then Lord-Advocate, afterwards Lord Justice-Clerk; for the
defender (Douglas), Islay Campbell, Robert Macqueen, afterwards Lord Braxfield,
Francis Garden, afterwards Lord Gardenston, and James Boswell, friend of
Johnson, a conlributor to the prolific literature of the contest in the form of what
he called " The Essence of the Douglas Cause." Following this failure in the
Court of Session, an appeal was immediately entered upon for Mr. Douglas before
the House of I^rds. A year and six months afterwards (27th February, r769), a
decision was given in that last Court of Appeal in favour of Mr. Douglas as
pursuer, which secured him the estates as lineal heii of Duke Archibald.

^

ANDREW STUART OR TORRANCE AND CASTLEMILK. 63

Such a Rnish did not take Mr. Stuart by surprise. " Last night (he wrote to a
friend the following day) oui fate was decided agreeable to the prediction I Knt
you." The decision was received in Edinburgh with much rejoicing and some
tumult The counsel who spoke before the Lords were — For the appellant
(Douglas), the Lord-Advocate (Montgomery) and Sir Fletcher Norton; for the
respondents, Wedderburn and Dunning. The Lord -Chancel lor (Camden) and
the Chief-Justice (Mansfield) spoke widi marked ability in favour of Mr, Douglas.
A man of quiet, retired habits, and an excellent landlord, he was raised to the
Peerage as Lord Douglas of Douglas, 1790, and died universally respected,
December, 1827. Stuart's "Letters to Lord Mansfield" on the case, a weighty,
dignified, and closely-reasoned remonstrance regarding the opinions expressed by
his Lordship, appeared in January, 1773, with many apologies for unavoidable
lateness. In the later stages of the " Cause," when papers were being prepared
for the House of Lords, Mr. Stuart look objection to the quaint Galhcism used by
Thurlow, " a mean coiniiur." As a lawyer, equal in education and characler, and
greatly his superior both in birth and social connection, Stuart resented the phrase,
and a hostile meeting in Hyde Park with swords and pistols was the result.
According to the cautious prints of the day, he was attended as second " by bis

brother, Colonel ," Thurlow having for liis " Mr. L , member for a city

in Kent," The first may readily be identified as Colonel J. Stuart of Torrance,
younger brother to Andrew, the other, probably, was Mr. W. Lynch, member for
Canterbury. Both gentlemen discharged their pistols, which, however, did no
harm. They then drew their swords, but their seconds interposed and put an end
to the aRair.

In the summer of 1767, when the decision of the Court of Session stood
in favour of the Hamilton family, Mr. Stuart contested Lanarkshire in anticipa-
tion of the dissolution of Parliament the following year, the sitting member,
Daniel Campbell of Shawfield (and Islay) being expected to retire. His opponent
was John Ross (Lockhart) of Balnagowan, Ross-shire. That the contest was
conducted keenly enough is apparent from a short note by Mr. Stuatt (then

THE WEST COUNTRY m HISTORY.

generally described as of Craigthom) to a friend, dated September rath, 17^7: —
"My brother and I have been consorting here with our father (who, I have the
pleasure to tell you, is much better) the plan of operations for the contest We
sally forth early to-morrow morning by different routes in order that the applications
may be made as rapidly as possible In all the different comers of the county, —
Yours most sincerely, AsDW. Stuart." Mr. Stuart was unsuccessful at the poll,
as he mustered only 26 freeholders against 41 who voted for Ross. Mr. Stuart
was successful at next general election, 1774, and again in 1780, holding the seat
till 1784, when he was succeeded by Sir J. Stewart Denholm of Coltness.

Mr. Stuart's great achievement in the way of literature was his " Genealogical
History of the House of Stewart," published in r798, and still an authority in its
own special department. While a subsidiary object of the book was to refute
the pretensions of Lord Galloway as representing the Royal House, and establish
the claim of Castlemilk, which the author came to represent, there is much
collateral information concerning successive generations of Stewarts of Damley,
Lennox, and Aubigny, supported by abundance of raluable "proofs" and "refer-
ences." In particular, and more important than all the rest, there are the documents
long lost sight of, but discovered by Mr. Stuart in the Vatican, in the form of two
Dispensations relating to Robert the Stewart of Scotland (Robert II.) for his
marriages with Elizabeth Mure and Eupheraia Ross, settling once and for ever the
question of the legitimacy of the Stewarts, so fiercely debated among the genealogists
of last century. Mr. Stuart's position in the claim for family honours was that on
the death of Cardinal York, then living, the representation of the male line of the
Stuarts of Damley and Lennox must devolve upon the person who was able to
prove himself descended from Sir William Stuart, the next brother of Sir John
Stuart of Damley and first Lord of Aubigny. The necessary conditions, Mr.
Stuart contended, were found, not in the Galloway family, but in his own ancestor,
Sir William Stuart of Castlemilk. Over 40 years since the most learned genealo-
gists of the day contended that the early Stewarts were clearly represented by
Christian-Anne, Elizabeth, and Charlotte, daughters of Andrew of Torranct His

THE LOLLARDS OF KYLE.

65

succession to the older and larger portion of tlie family estates came late in life
and were enjoyed for only a brief season. The eldest brother of the family,
Alexander, died 23rd March, 1796, when Andrew succeeded to the romantic
estate of Torrance; and in January of next year (1797) his cousin, Sir John of
Castlemiik, died, when Andrew again succeeded as nearest heir-male to the
deceased. The latter days of his life were spent largely in keeping up a wide
correspondence, and in those congenial antiquarian researches which had occupied
so much of his active career. It only remains to be mentioned that Andrew
Stuart married Margaret Stirling, daughter of Sir William Stirling of Ardoch,
and latterly sat in the House of Commons as one of the members for Weymouth.
He died at his London residence, Berkeley Square, 18th May, 1801, aged 73.
Major-General James Stuart, brother of Andrew, saw much active service in India,
as well as in North America, and the west India Islands, and after having bravely
won the highest honours in his profession, returned to Castlemilk, where he died,
and February, 1793, without issue. The present proprietor of Torrance is
Lieut. -Col. Robert Edward Harrington-Stuart, eldest son of Robert Harrington of
Crutherland, by Charlotte, daughter and co-heiress of the above Andrew Stuart of
Torrance and Castlemilk. Lieut. -Col on el Harrington-Stuart married, 1863, Louisa-
Alice, daughter of the Hon. Robert Arthur Arundell, and succeeded to Torrance
on the death of his aunt, 1879,

THE LOLLARDS OF KYLE.

riNG Cunningham on the north from Carrick on the south, the third
ancient middle division of Ayrshire, known as Kyle, is itself divided by Ayr W.-iicr
into two rather unequal portions, Stewart-Kyle and King's-Kyle, the former
stretching in one direction to the fertile holms along the Irvine, the latter from the
Ayr southward towards Maybole and Dailly in Carrick. Kyle district comprehends

66

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

in all twenty-one parishes, Tarbolton, Symingtonj and Dundonald lying north of the
Ayr, while southward is Dalrymple, Coylton, Ochiltree, and Stair. Richly
cultivated, beautiful in itself, and full of associations in romantic and legendary lore
this old district of Kyle has an interest of a still higher order for the historical
student wishful to enlarge his knowledge by adding to stores already collected
one of the most interesting chapters in ecclesiastical annals concerning the great
movement carried on against the Papacy by Reformers before the Reformation.
The blood of martyrs has been affirmed on high authority to be the seed of the
Church J and so, no doubt it has proved on many occasions ; but Persecution,
when relentless enough, and well directed, has also had its evil victories. A war
distinguished, Macaulay writes, even among wars of religion by its merciless
atrocity, destroyed the Albigensian heresy in the early part of the thirteenth
century, and with so-called heresy perished the prosperity, the civilisation, the
literature, and even the national existence of what was once the most opulent and
enlightened part of the great European family. Then also arose as part of a
system designed to strengthen the Church, that dreaded Inquisition, whose
tribunals completed on system the destruction of such remnant as might by
accident have escaped the sword. For about a century and a half, or till 1380,
the Church did not judge itself to be seriously annoyed by heresy, and largely
through the aid of her new order of Mendicant Friars, Rome became once more
the mistress of the world, with kings for her vassals.

Next came the great Schism of the West, with two Popes, each having a
doubtful title, and fulminating anathemas against each other from Avignon and
Rome. By this time Wickliff, who was reared in the Church, and only kept from
expulsion, if not a worse fate, through the help of powerful friends, had protested
against Trao substantiation. He also declared that pilgrimages and monastic
vows had no authority from Scripture. More important than all, the judicious, if
not very courageous Rector of Lutterworth completed a translation of the Bible
into the language of his countrymen in the year above-mentioned. Although
known to a few only by manuscript fragments, there can be no doubt that it

H

THE LOLLARDS OF KYLE. 6;

powerfully toiluenced the refonning movement among the common people in this
country, as well as on the Continent. The most recent researches among auch of
his manuscripts as have escaped the destructive zeal of enemies show \Vickliff to
be justly entitled to dignity as Day Star of the Reformation; and such praise
is now doubly deserved, as for more than two centuries after his death all that was
recorded of him was set down by adversaries. The earUest, Netter of Walden,
reputed author of the "Zizaniorum," published some years since in the "Rolls"
series, was WicklilTs bitterest opponent, as might almost have been expected from
his official position as Provincial of the Carmelite Order in England. Wodeford in
his answer to the "Trialogus" was unwearied in setting down calumnies; and
Nicholas Harpsfield used an Ecclesiastical History largely for the purpose of
defaming his memory. Dr. James, the first librarian appointed by Sir Thomas
Bodley to his newly-founded library at Oxford, 1602, was amongst the earhest
scholars who undertook to vindicate the memory of the great divine.

The fears of the Church as to the effect of the new doctrines were not ill-
founded. The instinctive dread of Rome that Scripture knowledge in any other
than her own form should be imparted to the people once more roused her " from
idle torpor to unholy zeal. Laymen and even priests secretly discussed the new
doctrines in England, while missionaries, in the guise of students or' merchants,
carried them to France, Saxony, Bohemia, and the distant towns of the Lower
Danube." A Council, as usual, was called — this lime, however, for the threefold
purpose of healing up schism, reforming ecclesiastical abuses, and condemning
heresy as well as heretics. This important gathering, ranked among the great
Councils of the Church, sat down to business in November, 1414, the place of
meeting selected being the fortified but still beautiful City of Constance, on the
Swiss side of the Lake bearing the same n.ame. Tins Council, known in Church
hbtory as that of Constance, is said to have been reluctantly opened by the
anti-Pope himself (John XXIIL), in presence of the Emperor Sigismund, a6 princes,
140 counts, more than zo cardinals, 7 patriarchs, zo archbishops, 91 bishops,
600 other prelates and doctors, and about 4000 priests. The Council lasted three

68

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY,

years and a-halT, or till ApriS, 1418, the anti-Pope having by that time abdicated,
and been succeeded by Cardinal Colonna as Martin V. In the course of various
sessions held during 1415, John Huss and Jerome of Prague were condemned to
the stake, and suffered death for teaching (he new doctrines, sometimes called after
Wickliff, but more commonly known as "Lollard." Forty-five articles said lo have
been extracted from the writings of Wickliff were condemned as heretical and
erroneous, while the Reformer's dust, which for over 30 years had been lying within
the quiet churchyard of Lutterworth, was with senseless malignity, ordered to
be separated from the "faithful," if possible, and cast upon a dunghill. Thirteen
years later this sentence was executed by the Bishop of Lincoln, as demanded by
Pope Martin. Instead, however, of being thrown on a dunghill, the disintened
bones were burned, and the ashes thrown into a neighbouring brook called the
Swift, which, wrote Fuller in his quaint way, "conveyed them into the Avon,
the Avon into the Severn, the Severn into the narrow seas, and they to the main
ocean; and thus the ashes of WickHff are the emblem of his doctrine, which is now
dispersed all over the world," The rage of the Council also fell heavily on such
disciples as its far-reaching power could grasp. Some, it would appear, submitted;
some Red; some sealed their faith with their blood; some received the wages of
apostasy. Sawtrey was burnt; Repingdon died a cardinal ("Qr. Rev.,"vol. t04,p. 148).
The flame which Wickliff lighted is admitted by his enemies never to have been
quite trampled out even by the iron heel of persecution. But to those who
have examined the position most carefully, it seems that the flame kindled
by Wickliff, which burnt so brightly, was nearly all but extinguished, because
neither England nor Scotland, for a century and a-half following his death, were
so well prepared as in his own time for shaking off the most corrupt form of
the most corrupt church ever known to exist So utterly had the new doctrines
been trampled down, that in 1451, when Cade put himself at the head of a revolu-
tionary population, not one of the demands made touched upon religious reform.

Among the disciples who fled northward, and sought to propagate the new
doctrines, the two best known are John Reseby, and Paul Crawar, a Bohemian,

THE LOLLARDS OF KYLE. 69

both executed for holding Lollard principles — the first at Perth, 1407, the other at
St. Andrew's, where he had taken up his residence. 1433. The opening sentence
of Knox's " History of the Reformation " is to the effect that in one Record,
vaguely described, in some now unknown Register, as the " ScroUis of Glasgu,"
mention is made of one " whais name is not expressed, that in the year of God,
1422, was burnt for heresye ; bot what war his opinions, or by what ordour he was
condempned, it appearia not evidentile." Historians have frequently fixed upon
Reseby as the name intended to be " expressed," but the dates vary so widely that
it is safer to conclude reference is made to some other poor Lollard, nameless, no
doubt, but doubtless also, like so many of his brethren, zealous and venturesome.

Where or when the term "Lollard" came to be first applied lo those who
held the new doctrines, or even how the word itself came to he so applied, are
points far from clear. Antwerp would seem to have been the early home of the
sect, and the word may be taken from Low-German " lollen," as expressive of a
lullaby or chanting of prayers. It has, however, affinities with the English "loll"
and " loUers," equivalent to loungers or idle vagrants. In this sense " Lollard "
might be used by orthodox Churchmen as a term of reproach towards the
followers of WicklifT, From such terms in the language of scorn it is known we
have " Puritan," " Quaker," and even " Christian " itself, the disciples being first
so called in derision by the nirable-witted citizens of Antioch. But how originated or
when first applied need not occupy more space. By the early part of the fifteenth
century the name had come to express in Scotland a well-defined set of religious
principles hostile to the Church as it existed, and also to the priests who ministered
at her altars. ^Vyntotm, in his "Metrical Chronicle," composed about 1420,
writes of Robert, Duke of Albany, appointed fifteen years earlier Governor of
Scotland, as " a constant Catholike, all Lorrard he hatyt, and Hereticke." The
execution of Reseby at Perth during his exercise of power, siiows that the
compliment such as the worthy Prior of Lochleven intended was not ill merited.
The prevalence of Lollard opinions is still more evident from the terms of an oath
framed for the newly-founded University of St. Andrews in June, 1416, requiring

7«

THE WEST COUNTRV IN HISTORY.

ihat all who commenced Masters of Arts should swear, among other things, that
they would resist all adherents of the sect of Lollards. Again, in 1414, and
suggestively enough in Perth, the city of Rcseby's martyrdom, a Parliament of
James I. passed an Act "Anentis Heretikis and Lollardis," providing that "Ilk
Bischop sail ger inquyr be the Inquiscione of Heresy, quhar ony sit beis fundyne,
and that thai be punnyst as lane of Haly Kirk requiris ;" and, finally, that secular
power be called in for helping of the Kirk.

It is under the conditions proi'idcd for in this Act of Parliament that we are
brought face to face with the Lollards of Kyle. In 1494, the sixth year of the
reign of James IV,, when Luther was a lad at Mansfeldt School, and 23 years
before he had nailed his famous challenge thesis to the church door of Wittenberg,
information was conveyed to Robert Blackadder, Archbishop of Glasgow, that
about 30 people within his jurisdiction, most of them in Kyle, but a few in
Cunningham, were infected with the Lollard leprosy, introduced into that quiet
pastoral district, it was unknown by whom, but spreading with alarming haste.
Blackadder, of the house of TulUallan, who had been Prebendary of Cardross and
Bishop of Aberdeen before his elevation to the see of Glasgow, was much engaged
in his day in missions to the Papal Court, and must have known well all about the
rise and progress of Lollardism in hia native country as well as on the Continent,
The daring heretics were instantly summoned to answer for their offence at a
Council, held in presence of the King. Among those who answered to the charge
were George Campbell of Cessnock, Adam Reid of Barskimming — (ol
" Blaspheming," VautrouUier transcribes in his very defective edition of Knox's
" History") — John Campbell of Newmilns, Andrew Shaw of Polkeramit, the Lady
Polkellie, related to Cessnock, and Marion (or Isabella) Chalmers, Lady Stair,
from whom descended Lord-President Stair.

The charges made before the Council against these early Worthies of Kyle
amounted to 34 in number. Briefly stated, they were accused of believing that
neither images nor the relics of saints were to be worshipped ; that the " power of
ihtiteys" ended with the Apostle Peter himself j that tithes ought not to be paid;

1

THR LOLLARDS OF KYLE. JI

that every faithful believer waa a priest ; that the Pope was not the successor of St.
Peter, and deceived the people by bulls and indulgences ; that the blessing of a
Sishop was of no value ; that excommunication was not to be feared ; that priests
might many ; that prayer ought not to be offered up to the Virgin ; and, worse still,
for it lay at the core of all heretical teaching, that the pretended sacrifice of the
mass was idolatry. "Adam Reid (said the Bishop) believe ye that God ia in
heaven?" Reid answered — " Not as I do the Sacraments seven;" "whairat the
Bischop (we now follow Knox), thinking to have triumphed, said — ' Sir, so he
denys that God is in heaven;' whairat the King, wondering, said, 'Adam Reid,
what say ye 1' The other answered — 'Please your Grace to heir the end betwixt
the churle and me.' And thairwith he turned to the Bishope and said, ' I
nether think nor beleve, as thou thinkis, that God is in heavin ; but 1 am
most assured that he is not only in heavin, bot also in the earth. Bott
thou and thy factioun declayre by your workis, that eyther ye think thaJr is
no God at all, or ellis that he is so shut up in the heavin, that he rcgardis not what
is done into the earth ; for yf thou formerlie believed that God war in the heavin,
thou should not mack thy self check-mate to the King, and altogether forgett the
charge that Jesus Christ the Sone of God gave to his Apostles, which was to
preach his Evangell, and not to play tlie proud prelatts, as all the rabill of yow do
this day. And now, sir (said he to the King), judge ye whither the Bischop or 1
believe best that God is in heavin.' Whill the Bischope and his band could not
Weill revenge thame selhs, and whill many tantis war gevin thame in thair
teith, the King, willing to putt ane end to farther reasonying, spoke to
the said Adam Reid, 'Will thou burae thy bill?' (a sign of recantation).
He answered— 'Sir, the Bischope and ye will.' With these and the lyik
scoflis the Bischop and his band war so dashed out of countenance that
the greatest part of the accusatioun was turned to lawchter." Bishop Blackadder,
it may be mentioned, who is described by Lesly as "ane noble, wyse, and
godlie man," died in the summer of 1508, soon after he had set out on a
pilgrimage to the Holy Land.

71

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

No more prosecutions for belief are heard of till the youthful Patrick
Hamilton acquired the undying distinction of being the first Scottish maityr for
Refonnation principles by suflering at the stake in front of the College of St. Sal-
vador, St. Andrews. Ayr, however, was not much later in furnishing a confessor
"faithful unto the death" in the person of young Kennedy — he was only eighteen —
who in 1539 was burnt in Glasgow at the instance of Bishop Gavin Dunbar, and
certain assistants, whom Knox described as "beasties," sent west by Cardinal
Beaton. Young Kennedy, whose Christian name is conjectured to have been
Thomas, suffered along with Jerome Russell, a learned and pious Cordelliere
Friar. They both met death with gre.tt heroism, each inciting the other to en-
durance at the stake here for the life of blessedness to corae — " Playing the man,"
as honest Hugh Latimer expressed it to his fellow- sufferer, "Master" Ridley, and, too,
like these later martyrs for the same principles, "lighting a candle in Scotland which
should never be put out." " I am ready to die (said Kennedy), and free from the
fear wherewith I was once oppressed."

THE EARL OF BGLINTON SHOT BY A POACHER.

In the prime of life, high in official station, popular wherever he was known, and
esteemed by his tenantry, as most of the house of Montgomery have ever been,
few deaths could have been more unlookcd for, and none less likely to be the result
of violence, than Alexander, tenth Earl of Eglinton. In ihe fatal aitercalion with
his assassin on the shore at Ardrossan, it almost seemed as if humane confidence
led him for a moment to forget the cautious motto of his house — " Gardez Bien" —
" Takegood care." His father was that Alexander, ninth Earl, less known probably
for his exertions in favour of the Hanoverian succession during Mar's Rebellion in
1715, or even for having cleared the estate of encumbrances and added to its
extent, than for having as third Countess the amiable Susannah Kennedy of

THE EARL OF EGLINTON SHOT BY A POACHER. 73

Culzean, whose perfect beauty and channing manner may still be recalled in a
distant way through the pages of Allan Ramsay and Hamilton of Bangour. Her
family became distinguished for what was known as "the Eglinton air;" nor was her
eldest son, the tenth Ear!, less distinguished than the others for manly grace and a
frank, accessible manner. These, however, could not be discerned when he
succeeded to the wide inheritance of the family in 1729. The new Earl was only
three years old. Minorities are usually favourable for "nursing" an estate when in
the hands of judicious guardians, nor is there any reason for thinking that his
youthful Lordship was in any other hands than the most competent. But, as the
unexpected always happens, so does the unforeseen sometimes occur. In the
summer of 1730, the year after his succession, a desolating storm of hail spread
over three baronies of the earldom lo the almost utter destruction of the crop. The
calamity gave rise to a litigation extending over several years, but at its weary close
the Court of Session decided that the tenants were not entitled lo pay rent for that
year. Even the miller obtained compensation for deficiency in multures.

Being only sixteen years of age at the Jacobite " rising" in the perilous '45, the
Ear! was able to avoid personal involvement on either side ; but, as his father's son,
he must often have heard of the narrow escape made by his W'intoun relative after
Mar's attempt in 1715. Following the troubles of '45 came the Act for abolishing
heritable jurisdictions, under which the Earl got ;i^7,8oo in full payment of a larger
claim made for the redeemable Sheriffship of Renfrew, the bailairy of ihe regality of
Kilwinning and the regality of Cunningham. Governor of Dumbarton Castle, a
Lord of the Bed-Chamber at the Court of George III., he was also a Scottish
representative Peer, and look an active part in passing through Parliament a
useful measure abolishing the optional clause permitting the Scotch banks to
refuse payment of their notes in cash for six months. But it was as an improving
agriculturist that he made his most memorable mark, inasmuch as he thereby
not only benefited his own estate but set an example which was soon copied all
round. Regarding the preservation of his game, he was neither more strict nor
less considerate than his neighbours. That he intended having a shot on his

74

TSE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

own grounds the day he met with his death is evident enough from a gun being
placed in his carriage on setting out ic the forenoon. He not only planned but
personally superintended much work in the way of planting, reclaiming, enclosing,
and building. Earl Alexander, indeed, was seldom off the estate, and it was in
the course of inspecting such operations that he came to his untimely end. The
murderer and his victim had encountered each other at least once before.

Mungo Campbell, described as an excise officer at Aidrossan, was bom
at Ayr in 171Z, and reputed to be one of twenty-four children. His father was
ot one time Provost of that burgh, but meeting with heavy losses in business, the
family were left only indifferently provided for at his death. Mungo was taken
charge of in infancy by his godfather, Comet Campbell, and on growing up
enlisted into the Scots Greys, went with them to Dettingen, was discharged in
1744, and on returning to Scotland received a commission in the excise through
the patronage of the Earl of Loudoun, whom he had accompanied in a humble
capacity to the Highlands. Esteemed on the whole for his military experiences
as well aa his gentle descent, and fond of the gun, he had a loose kind of per-
mission to ramble over various properties in that portion of Ayrshire where he
lived. On Eglinton's ground Campbell was not permitted to encroach, The
Earl had come across him on one occasion at Parkhead after shooting, and
only let him off with a stem warning, incited thereto, it was said, by one of the
Castle servants named Bartlemore, who had been detected by Campbell in
assisting to smuggle inland a quantity of mm. On the 24th October, about ten
o'clock forenoon, Campbell, carrying a gun, and accompanied by a tide-waiter
named Brown, set out from Saltcoats to walk to Montfode Bank by a common
road leading through the Eglinton grounds, the primary object of the journey,
it was alleged for Campbell, being the detection of smugglers either at Montfode
or Caattecraigs.

They were returning by the sands, and within flood mark, when Earl
Alexander passed them in his carriage on the Largs and Saltcoats road.
Informed, or knowing otherwise, that they had been poaching over his grounds

THE EASt OE EGIINTON SHOT BY A POACHER.

75

\

his Lordship left the carriage, mounted a horse, and accompanied by some of
his servants, rode up to Campbell, charging him with faithlessness after the
promise he had made to abstain, and demanding at the same time possession of
the gun, Campbell refused, declaring, with an oath, that he would rather part
with his life than bis gun. The Earl now dismounted, and although unarmed
sought to circle round and gradually close in on Campbell. Campbell, on bis
part, followed every movement of his Lordship, and slightly stooping kept the
gun closely and firmly by his thigh, always pointing full in the direction of the
Earl. Exasperated and like to be beaten, for one of the servants had hurried
to the carriage for the gun, Campbell shouted, " Keep off, my lord, or (with
another oath) I will shoot youl" Nothing daunted, his Lordship replied, "I,
too, can use a gun" {although the servant had not yet brought up the weapon),
and kept pressing in on Campbell. The latter, retreating a few steps, yet still
looking full at Eghnton, stumbled and fell. Gathering himself together, in a
moment he aimed direct at his Lordship, pulled the trigger, and lodged the
charge in his left side. Campbell then rushed on the servant, who had reached
the ground with his Lordship's gun unloaded, seized it from him, and took aim
in a general way, but as if intent on more mischief. After some little rough
usage, which the wounded nobleman sought to moderate, Campbell was secured
and conveyed to Irvine prison, then to Ajt, and finally, under a strong guard, to
Edinburgh, to be tried before the High Court of justiciary. Finding himself
mortally wounded. Lord Eglinton rested for a few minulcs on a stone by the
shore, and then desired to be conveyed to his carriage, that the Castle might be
reached as soon as possible. The party arrived there a little after two o'clock,
but, although skilful physicians were there before him, it was found that any effort
to save his Lordship must be fruitless. He employed the few remaining hours
of bis life in giving orders and written directions about his affairs, in making
pro^-ision for his servants, and comforting with much self-possession the mourning
friends around his bed. He died about ten o'clock next morning, or as near as
possible twelve hours after the encounter.

THB WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

Campbell's trial came on in Edinburgh before the High Court, February a6,
1770— the Lord Justice-Clerk presiding. Certain technical objections had previously
been taken to the libel, but its relevancy was supported by all the Judges, who,
however, allowed the panel full liberty to prove any facts in exculpation or
which might alleviate his guilt. The evidence presented to the Court by the
Crown Prosecutor was in substance according to the facts mentioned above.
The only statements of any importance made in defence were that the Earl
was hasty, threatening, and angry, none of which were proved. The jury, by •
a majority, returned ft verdict of guilty, and Campbell was sentenced to be
executed, nth April — a doom which he avoided by hanging himself in prison
on the evening of conviction.

Alexander, tenth Earl of Eglinton, was succeeded by his brother Archibald,
a military officer of considerable repute, and M.P, for Ayr county, 1761-68,
As tending to modify the grief caused by the great calamity which overshadowed
the house of Eglinton, it is pleasant to remember that the mother of the two
young Earls, the Countess Susannah mentioned above, was spared, with what
was thought almost increasing attraction, till 17S0, when she died in the house
ofAuchans at the great age of 91. Late in hfe she was visited by Dr. Johnson
on his return from the Hebrides, when it came out in conversation that she
was married the year before he was born, upon which she pleasantly said to
him that she might have been his mother, and that she now adopted him.
When we were going away (Boswell records), the Countess embraced him, saying,
"My dear son, farewell." "My friend (continues Boswell) was much pleased
with this day's entertainment (November 1, 1773), and owned that I had done
well to force him out."

An intcrejlln* Mtmoriil of ihe tragedy on Ardrocan Sands Mil! eiini in iho fonn of a gold finstr rins. pfe«nled
br Ihf dying Kul lo AmlHvr Wil»n, Fiscil of hii Damny Cduh of Bnth. and bsd-stoward for ihal portion of (he
EfllinLon property. Mr- WIIjod acconpaDied hit lordihip on the fatal day. >wu prHcot at the encounter, and ho
becune oaturally one ot Ihc chitt witocuej relied on hy the Crown, lo secure a conviclion ngainil Campbell. After
the Earl wju that. Mr. Wilton audited him home to Eglinton Culle, und remained there till be died. Shortly hcTare
the end came, the Earl uked Mr. Wilion if he would like ta have anything from him as a keepuke. Mr. Wilson

liiver, and put it on Mr. WiUon'i finger, uking him to wear it for hii nke. Thii ring it now in the poueuion of
■ gieai-^rand^m of Mr. Wil«n'i, ind owing lo in interesting hiaory hai been handed down at *n heirfomn in the
ftmily. Mr. Wiltun gave it lo hii danghler, }iaa, who married Robert Taulds, Banker, Beilh, from whom it came
tlieir only ion, James FaulJi, Writer and Banker, tlcifh, *bo gayc it lo hii ton, Andrew Wilson Faulds, and in
whole potteuioD it bow is-

CARNWATH AND THE LOCKHARTS OF LEE.

CARNWATH AND THE LOCKHARTS OF LEE.

Had no " Talisman " ever cast the glow of romance over the House of Loclchart,
ihe family, in any other country than Scotland would have been held noble,
dating back, as it does at the least, to that Sir Simon of the name knighted by
William the Lion, and who held under Walter the Stewart of Scotland the lands
in two counties, now known as Symington of Kyle and Symington of Lanarkshire.
The cradle of the race, so far as known to history, would appear to have been
the east side of the Upper Ward, the Lanarkshire Symington, abutting close on
the county of Peebles. Camwath acquired from the Somervilles, Lords of
Camwath, in comparatively recent times, is so far north on the same side of
the county as to be divided from Dunsyre by the southern range of the
Pentland Hills. Lee, again, the present delightful seat of the family, is almost
in the centre of Lanarkshire, being only three miles from the county town,
and two from those Cartland Crags bridged over by the genius of Telford.

In [339, the young Sir Simon of his day accompanied Sir James Douglas
in his expedition to the Holy Land with the heart of Bruce, and, undeterred
by the loss of the precious relic in a conflict with the Moors near Tebas,
Andalusia, continued his journey eastward, but added then, it is recorded, a
heart to the original armorial padlock on his banner, with the motto still used,
"Corda serata pando" — "1 lay open locked hearts." It is this Sir Simon
whom tradition identifies as the Lockhart who brought home from Palestine
the famous charm known afterwards as the " Lee-penny," and used with such
dramatic effect by Scott in his novel of "The Talisman," generally acknowledged
as the best of his Crusader tales. What is historical in the tradition may not
be of surpassing accuracy, but it is at least interesting, and is briefly set forth
by the great novelist in the introduction to his story. Fighting as a soldier of
the Cross, Sir Simon Lockhart had on one occasion taken prisoner an Emir
of considerable wealth and consequence. The aged mother of the captive

•fi

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORV.

came to the Christian camp to redeem her son from his state of captivity.
Lockhart is said to have fined the price at which his prisoner should rsnsom
himself; and the lady, pulling out a large embroidered purse, proceeded to lell
down the ransom like a mother who pays little respect for gold in comparison
of her son's liberty. In this operation, a pebble inserted in a coin, some say
of the Lower Empire, fell out of the purse, and the Saracen matron testified so
much haste to recover it as gave the Scottish knight a high idea of its value,
when compared wlh gold or silver. " I will not consent," he said, " lo grant
your son's liberty unless that amulet be added lo his ransom." The lady not
only consented to this, but explained to Sir Simon the mode in which the
talisman was to be used, and the uses to which it might be put The water
in which it was dipped operated as a styptic, as a febrifuge, and possessed
several other properties as a medical tahsman.

Sir Simon Lockhart, after much experience of the wonders which the charm
wrought, brought it to his own country, and left it lo heirs, by whom, and by
Clydesdale in general, it was, and is still, distinguished as the Lee-penny, from the
name of his native seat of Lee. The most remarkable part of its history, perhaps,
was that it so especially escaped condemnation when the Church of Scotland
chose to impeach many other cures which savoured of the miraculous, as occa-
sioned by sorcery and censured the appeal to them, " excepting only that to the
amulet, called the Lee-penny, to which it had pleased God to annex certain healing
virtues which the Church did not presume to condemn." The efficacy of the
charm is said to have been tested with fair success even during the present century,
but the risk of injurj' or loss, when out of proper custody, was so great that the
" Talisman " was dipped in water at home, the water being sent out in bottles to
patients or others who desired to test its power.

Sir James Lockhart of Lee, the sixth in descent from the above Sir Simon, and
son of Allan, slain at Pinkie, became in 1630 one of the Commissioners of Estates
for the county of Lanark, and in 1645 a Commissioner of Exchequer, The
following year he was made a Lord of Session, succeeding on the Bench that Sir

CARNWATH AND THE LOCKHARTS OF LEE. 79

Alexander Gibson, Lord Dune, deceased, who was scarcely better known in his
day from a ponderous volume of " Decisions," than for having been kidnapped
by a daring luoss-trooper known as Willie Armstrong, or " Christie's Will," and
carried off to a lonely " pee! " or fortress in Annandale, where he was kept in
confinement till my Lord Traquair, Lord High Treasurer, had got some law case
in which he was concerned settled after his own mind. After taking part in the
exploit known as the " Engagement " to relieve King Charles from captivity in
England, Lord Lee was himself laken prisoner .it Alyth, August 1651, shipped off
to England, and confined for years in the Tower, till relief came through the
intercession of his eldest son, Sir William Ixickhart, Governor of Dunkirk, and
otherwise prominent as a diplomatist during the Commonwealth. Mazarine is
said to have ofTered him the baton of a marshal of France if he would favour the
plans of Louis XIV. regarding the cession of Dunkirk and Mardyke. Lord Lee's
second son was that distinguished lawyer, Sir George Lockhart, President of the
Court of Session, shot on Sunday, March 31, 1689, in a close off High Street
leading to his own residence, by John Chiesley, of Dairy, in consequence of having
given a decision in favour of Chiesley's wife as one of the arbiters in a suit for
aliment Chiesley, known in his day as a regardless rufBan, was first put to the
torture by warrant of the Estates, and, confessing the crime, had his right hand
struck off the Wednesday following. lie was hanged immeduilely thereafter, and
his body hung in chains between Leith and Edinburgh. The Lord President,
known as Sir George of Camwalh, purchased that estate from the Earl of Carnwath,
to whom it had come from the Somervilles through the Mar and Buchan families.
The eldest son of the Lord President, also a George, known from his intrigues
with the Jacobites as " Union Lockhart," acted as a sort of confidential agent
between the Pretender and his Scottish adherents. Exiled to Holland for a brief
period, he was permitteil, in 1728, to return to Carnwath, where he lived un-
molested till 1732, when he was unfortunately killed in a duel. George Lockhart
wrote " Memoirs of Scotland, from the Accession of Queen Anne till the Union,"
published, but without his consent, in 17 14; and left behind him "Papers on the

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

Affairs of Scotland, 1720-25," printed 1817. A younger brother, Philip, shotasa
rebel at Preston, was father of Alexander of Craighouse, raised to the Bench under
the title of Lord Covington. Carnwath, since 1639, has given the title of Earl to
the family of Dal^e'l of Daliell, presently represented by Henry Burrard Dalzell,
eleventh in descent from Sir Robert, first Earl.

From Lord Lee the family succession was carried on by Sir William Lockhart,
whose second wife, Robina Shouster, was niece by her mother of Oliver Cromwell,
Lord Protector. Cromwell Lockhart, their eldest son, succeeded to Lee, but, failing
issue, the estate reverted for the third time to a brother, James, on the death of
whose son, John, the succession opened up to Count Lockhart VVisharl. After him
came another George of Carnwath, a strong partisan of the House of Stuart— James,
who added tlie name of Wishart to his own, and became a Count of the Holy
( Roman Empire. A younger brother, Charles, married Elizabeth, only child of John
Macdonald of Largie, and from them descends the present representative of the Lee
and Carnwath Lockharts. On the death of John Lockhart, last of Lee, in 1777,
James succeeded to that estate; but his son, Charles, dying In iSra without issue,
the foreign Jionours of the family became extinct, and the estates of Lee and
Carnwath devolved upon his cousin, Alexander Macdonald, eldest surviving son of
Charles Lockhart and Eliiabeth Macdonald of Largie.

On inheriting the estate and representation of the family, Alex. Macdonald
resumed the name of Lockhart, and was created a baronet of Great Britain, 34th
May, 1806. With two daughters, he had three sons — namely, Sir Charles, second
baronet; Sir Norman, third baronet; and Alexander, M.P. for Lanarkshire from
1837 to 1841, The eldest son, Sir Charles Macdonald Lockhart, married Emilia
Olivia, daughter of Sir Charles Ross, sixth baronet of Balnagown, and had two
daughters. On his death, 8th December, 1 832, he was succeeded by his brother, Sir
Norman Macdonald Lockhart, who died in 1849, when his son, Sir Norman
Macdonald Lockhart, bora 1845, became the fourth baronet. Sir Norman died
1870, and was succeeded by his brother, the present Sir Simon Macdonald Lockhart,
fifth baronet, bom 1849. l«e House, greatly enlarged and improved in 1822 from

DALRYMPLE AND THE STAIRS. 8i

' James Gillespie, Edinburgh, stands in an extensive and well wooded
valley, near the bottom of the sloping hills which form its northern boundary.
Technically speaking, it may now be described as an extensive building of a square
castellated form, having circular embattled turrets at each comer, and an embattled
parapet top. The principal entrance is in the lower part of a central tower in the
east front, and immediately above is a square window, which lights the entrance
hall. The building is surrounded with a high, broad terrace walk, The best view
of this stately mansion and the fine woods around is thought to be from the road
carried over Cartland, which passes along the brow of the hills on the north, and
gives the spectator some idea of "a giant fortress in fairyland."

DALRYMPLE AND THE STAIRS.

Separated from the western corners of Dumfries and Galloway by the wide parish
of Dalmellington, and from the sea by Maybole, Dalrymple, lying along the north or
right bank of the Doon, is like Stair, on the south or left bank of the Ayr, included
within that subdivision of central Ayrshire known as King's Kyle. The one point
marks the northern, the other the southern, Hmits of this portion of the country, and
are only separated from each other by portions of Ochiltree and Coyhon, With the
exception of Craigie, north of tlie Ayr, Stair is the least thickly-peopled parish in
Kyle, and, with the exception of Barr, in the centre of Carrick, smaller in point of
numbers than any within the entire county. The figures in the last census show
734 for Stair and 1412 for Dalrymple, the latter coming thus to be classed also
among the minor parishes so far as population Is concerned. Yet, insignificant
as these two Ayrshire parishes may appear under the application of a mere statistical
test, it is within their bounds we must search for the cradle of a race devoted
beyond most families to the public service of their country. No way overlooking

1

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

or extenuating the dark crime of Glencoe, it is still lo the Dalrymplea the historian
must turn for some of the brighter examples of eminence in literature and law, in
arms and diplomacy. It is indeed hardly open to doubt that we have in the career
of James, first Viscount Stair, the highest example of a race of statesmen in which
Scotland, up to his time, had by no means been so prolific as might be supposed, if
judged only by what she won through her sturdy spirit of independence. From
evidence not to be put lightly aside, it would appear that about the middle of the
fifteenth century (1450), the year when King James, second of the ill-starred line,
brought home Maiy of Gueldres as his bride, a certain William, son of John of the
barony of Dalrymple, acquired the lands of Stwr, or Stair- Montgomery, through his
marriage with the heiress, Margaret Kennedy, daughter of Malcolm of Carrick.
Their son, William Dalrymple of Swir, is set down as having married Marion,
daughter of Chalmers of Gadgirth, a lady who, as we have already described, was
summoned before the King's Council as belonging to that religious reforming band
known as the Lollards of Kyle. A grandson, James of Stair, was among the first
who openly professed the reformed doctrines. In later years his enemies — and he
had many of them— did not fail to taunt James, first Viscount Stair, with his lowly
descent; but, if an offence was intended, it did not appear to disturb either his
equanimity or his dignified bearing as President of the Court of Session, The place
of his birth is thought to have been Drummurchie, Barr parish, Ayrshire, and the
date 1619.

The future Lord-President's father was James of Stair, and his mother Jannet
Kennedy of Knockdaw. Stirring as his career was, it may be stated in a very few
lines from the period when he passed from Mauchline school to Glasgow University,
till his elevation to the peerage a few years before his death. Commanding for three
years a company of foot in Glencaim's regiraent, he afterwards turned his attention
to philosophical studies, and in 1641, after a competitive examination, he became a
professor or regent of the logic class in his old University, This appointment,
however, would appear to have been only a preliminary step towards the perfecting
of his legal studies, which enabled him to pass as advocate in 1648, Although one

DALR YMPLE AND THE STAIRS. 83

of the Commisaioners to Breda for the purpose of inviting Charles II. to Scotland,
Dalrynipte was made a Judge by Cromwell on the recommendation of Monk. The
appointment was confirmed at the Restoration, and the dignity of a baronetcy
added, to be followed at no distant interval by promotion to the chair of the Lord-
President. The work known as "Stair's Institutes," long familiar to lawyers, judges,
and statesmen, and hardly yet superseded, appeared in 16S1, a year otherwise of evil
import to the great jurist, since his resistance to the ensnaring Test Act, pressed on
by the Duke of York, led to his removal from the bench and flight to Leyden for
safety. This step was taken on a hint from Sir George Mackenzie, Lord- Advocate,
to the effect that if the bigoted Royal Duke pressed matters as he threatened, even
the author of the "Institutes" could not be saved from imprisonment at least. His
tenantry and dependants were also at this time much harassed by soldiers, and
sharply fined for non-conformity or church irregularities.

At Leyden, Dalrymple made the acquaintance of Claudius Salmasius, a now
all but forgotten controversialist, whose defence of King Charles would, in the
author's own day, have fallen into oblivion had it not called forth Milton's stinging
but scarcely less abusive "Defence of the English People.'" The Revolution of
1688 brought 'Such measure of relief and honour to Dalrymple, as is best indicated
by his restoration to the Presidentship of the Court of Session, and his elevation
to the peerage as first Viscount Stair, Lord Glenluce and Stranraer. Death took
place at Edinburgh, November, 1695, when Lord Stair had reached the age of 76.
As opposed to the bitter judgment of Burnet, Sir George Mackenzie left on record
that what he most admired Stair for was that in ten years' intimacy he never heard
him speak unkindly of those who had injured him. Scott writes of Stair as one of
the most eminent lawyers who ever lived, though the labours of his powerful mind
were unhappily exercised on a subject so limited as Scottish Jurisprudence.

With the original of Scott's " Lady Ashton " for a wife, the domestic life of
Lord Stair is interwoven with that painful tragedy of Fate known as " The Bride of
Lammermoor," elaborated with unwearied care and skill by novelists, musicians,
and dramatists. Lady Stair was originally Margaret Ross, co-heiress of Balneil,

J

84

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

Wigtonshire. She has been described as an able, politic, and high-minded woman,
BO successful in what she undertook that the vulgar, no way partial to her husband
or her family, imputed her success to necromancy. According to the popular
belief, as mentioned by Scott, this Dame Margaret purchased the temporary
prosperity of her family from the master she served under a singular condition,
narrated in these words by the historian of her grandson, whose descent leads
Macaulay to add an additional touch of blackness to his portrait of the son,
Master of Stair, first Earl, and the execrated of Glencoe. Lady Stair lived, writes
an "impartial hand," to a great age, "and at her death desired that she might not
be put under ground, but that her coffin should be placed upright on one end of it,
promising, that while she remained in that situation, the Dalrymples should
continue in prosperity. What was the old lady's motive for such a request, or
whether she really made such a promise, I cannot take upon me to determine ; but
it is certain her coffin stands upright in the aisle of the church at Kirkliston, the
burial place of the family." The daughter of the family, and original of " Lucy
Ashton," the " Bride " was Janet Dalryniple, betrothed to Lord Rutherford, but
compelled by her mother to marry a new suitor in the person of David Dunbar,
son and heir of David of Baldooa. The bridal feast was followed by dancing,
during which, as was usual, the bride and bridegroom retired to the nuptial
chamber. Suddenly wild and piercing shrieks were heard proceeding from the
apartment. It was then the custom, writes Scott, to prevent any coarse pleasantry
which earlier times tolerated, to entrust the key of this room to the bridesman or
"best man." He was called upon, but at first refused, to give up the keys till the
shrieks became so hideous that he was compelled to hasten with others to learn the
cause. On opening ihe door, they found the bridegroom lying across the threshold,
dreadfully wounded, and streaming with blood. The bride was then sought for.
She was found in the comer of a large chimney, having no covering save her shift,
and that dabbled in gore. There she sat grinning at them, mopping and moaning,
as I heard the expression used ; in short, absolutely insane. The only words she
spoke were "Tak up your bonny bridegroom." She survived this horrible scene

A

THE MASTER OF STAIR AND GLENCOE. 85

little more than a fortnight, having been married on the 24th of August, and died
on the Tith of September, 1669. The unfortunate Baldoon recovered from his

wounds, but sternly prohibited all inquiries respecting the manner in which he
had received them. The satirists of the day did not fail to turn the tragedy to the
discredit of the house of Stair, one lampoon of exceptional bitterness writing of
"Stair's neck, mind, wife, sons, grandson, and the rest," as "wiy, false, witch, pests,
parricide, possessed."

Besides the unhappy Miss Janet Dalrymple, Lord Stair left issue, John
" Master" of Stair, second Viscount and first Earl, who will be written of at length
next chapter in connection with Glencoe ; also Sir James, designated first of
Borthwick and afterwards of Cousland, progenitor of the present Earls ; Sir Hew,
the first baronet of North Berwick ; and Sir David, founder of the Hailes family,
and grandfather of the distinguished historian. Lord Hailes. The Hailes offshoot
from the Stair prolific stem is now represented by Charles Dalrymple, Esq. of
New Hailes, M,P., younger brother of Sir James Fergusson of Kilkerran,
through the second marriage of Lord Hailes with Helen, youngest daughter of
Lord Kilkerran, senator of the College of Justice, a learned jurist, elevated to the
Bench on the death of Adam Cockbum of Ormiston.

THE MASTER OF STAIR AND GLENCOE.

Eldest son of the first Viscount Stair, Sir John Dalrymple, or the " Master," as
he was commonly called, had about twenty years' experience at the Bar or on
the Bench, when, in i6gi, he was promoted by King William from the position of
Lord-Advocate to be one of His Majesty's Principal Secretaries of State. An
unnatural alliance happened to exist at the moment between Jacobites and
Presbyterians, the one writhing as much through loss of power as for the fall of

8«

THE WEST COUNTRY IN msTORY.

the hierarchyj the other sallen and discontented at the promotion of tirae-serving
politicians like the Stairs, who had suffered little or nothing in the "good cause," and
even held office when that "cause" was being subjected to its most trying ordeaL But
Daltymple was not to be daunted, either by such a combination, or by the personal
haired of intriguers like Hamilton and Athole. The tolerant King, it is well known
had no particular objection to Episcopacy even for Scotland ; indeed, his earliest
schemes for settling the peace of the North would seem to have proceeded on the
assumption that the system might be continued as the established form of belief.
But Carsiairs knew the temper of his countrymen better, and exercised the great
influence he justly possessed with the King in private to promote the design openly
advocated by Daliymple for setting up Presbyterianism on a just, rational, and
moderate footing. The settlement of 1690 was never put to a more severe trial than
during the discussions which took place three years later on the Oath of Assurance,
providing for the admission of Episcopalians within the fold of the new Establish-
ment, provided they acknowledged William as King dejure and tk facto. Those whom
it was intended to relieve clamoured for a far greater measure of relief, while the
Church it was intended to strengthen looked askance at the proposal as full of
Erastianism — nothing short of bending the knee to Csesar. The part taken by
Dalrymple at this precise stage has never been made very clear, but it is fairly
open to infer that he promoted the resolution ultimately arrived at, of leaving the
settlement of 1690 undisturbed

The tragedy of Glencoe, standing alone as it does in Scottish history for cool
treachery and merciless atrocity, may yet be said to have a kind of remote
connection with events of over two years preceding its consummation. It was
even connected in no indistinct way with that great confederation of princes
concerned in protecting the liberties of Europe under the direction of William of
Orange. Wishful to transport to the Netherlands such troops as could be spared,
the King declined following up the advantage gained at Killiecrankie in tlie summer
of 1689, with the result that the clans became more disorderly and threatening timn
ever, and perplexed statesmen with far higher scruples than any to which Dalrymple

1

TBE MASTER OF STAIR AND GLENCOE. 87

ever pretended. To get some measure of peace restored iii what was to him a
remote and worthless part of the kingdom, William gladly Ibteoed to a proposal for
securing the allegiance of the chiefs by the offer of an indemnity and the division
among them of ;£i 2,000 as a gratuity. To Lord Breadalbane was committed the
invidious task of distributing the fund, and, though no doubt was ever cast on his
honesty in this matter, it is certain there was never any real justification for his
sharp retort to Nottingham on being asked to account for the money — " The
Highlands, my Lord, are quiet, and the money spent; that is the best accounting
among friends." The Highlands were not quiet even when the oaths came to be
taken at the close of 1691. Tarbafs gratuity plan was from the first opposed by the
Master of Stair, who plainly said that the only way to restore and maintain order in
the Highlands, was to enforce with a firm hand obedience to law, and to draft off a
large portion of the population kept up by rival chiefs for purposes of pride or
robbery. His natural hatred of the Highland race as turbulent and troublesome
was roused to fury as he saw chance after chance pass away of suppressing what he
described as " a thing deplorable in any Christian country." The taking of the oath
gave the Master another opportunity for which he was watching. He seems lo
have originally contemplated nothing leas than breaking up and extirpating the
entire clan system. In a letter to Sir Thomas Livingston, dated January 7, 1692,
he says, " You know in general that the troops posted at Inverness and Inverlochie
will be ordered to take in the house of Invergarrie, and to destroy entirely the
cotmtry of Lochaber, Lochiel's lands, Keppoch's, Glengarie's, and Glencoe:" He
adds, "I assure you your power shall be full enough, and I hope the soldiers
will not trouble the Government with prisoners." In sending Livingston tha
instructions, signed and countersigned by the King on the nth January, "to march
the troops against the rebels who had not taken the benefit of the indemnity, and
to destroy them by fire and sword," he said in his letter as a hint to Livingston
how to act — " Just now my lord Argyle tells me that Glencoe hath not taken the
oath, at which I rejoice. It is a great work of charity to be exact in rooting out
that damnable sect, the worst of the Highlands." Additional instructions, bearing

88

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

date i6th January, were sent to Livingston, and in the letter containing tliem,
Secretary Dalrymple said, " For a just example of vengeance, I entreat the thieving
tribe of Glencoe may be rooted out to purpose," A duplicate of these instructions
was at the same time sent by him to Colonel Hill, governor of Fort-William, with
a similar letter.

The oath fell to be taken on or before the ist January, 1692. Old Maclan
Macdonald of Glencoe offered to comply at Fort-William on that day, but found
the Sheriff had gone to Inveraiy, and the inclement season made the second
journey unusually tedious. The roll was ultimately returned with a certificate
explaining the cause of delay. The certificate was first suppressed and Macdonald's
name afterwards deleted from the roll — a fraud for which the Master of Stair
has had to bear even a greater share of the odium than his Royal Master who
signed an order to the Commander of the Forces in Scotland: — "As for Maclan
of Glencoe and that tribe, if they can be well distinguished from the other
Highlanders, it will be proper for the vindication of public justice to extiqiate
that set of thieves." In his defence of William, generally admitted to be more
ingenious than convincing, Macaulay discusses " extirpation " as in itself an
innocent legal term, expressive of the primary duty of a Government to extirpate
all clans whose chief business was to steal cattle and to bum houses. This,
however, does not meet the case, evading as it does, and not very adroitly,
the graver portion of the charge made against King William and his government
in Scotland. It may, and no doubt is, as the hislorian insists in many passages
of his writings, one of the primary duties of a Government to protect life and
property, and therefore, naturally, to take all proper means for "extirpating"
thieves. But this surely cannot be set down as meaning that every thief is first
to consider himself as pardoned, then to be entrapped into a display of friendly
hospitality to his rulers, and finally to be murdered in his sleep without the
pretence of even a form of trial It is the mingled treachery and ruthless
cruelty which burned the recollection of Glencoe into the hearts of all Scotsmen
at home and abroad, and even threatened complications with Continental allies.

'i

%

THE MASTER OF STAIR AND GLENCOE. 8g

The soldiers appointed to carry out the deed of darkness were no in number,
and mostly Campbells, hereditary foea of the Macdonalds. They entered the
glen early in February, were received wilh unsuspecting hospitality, and basely
repaid the kindness by rising at a concerted signal about four o'clock on the
morning of the nth to carry through their bloody mission of "mauling them
in the long nights of winter." Men, women, and children, to the number of
38 in all, were treacherously put to death, many of them in their bed unconscious,
and about 150 escaped to the hills, to endure hardships worse to face than death.
The body of the old chief himself was found among the slain, his gray hair
dabbled in blood. During the month of March, as mentioned before, it
was known in a general way in Edinburgh that the Macdonalds had come to
an untimely end, but it was not till April that the "Paris Gazette" published
the news to the world. Even then theerwas so little popular excitement on the
subject that Dalrymple continued lo hold unmolested the offices of Scottish
Secretary and Lord -Advocate. But details of the treaciierous outrage could not
be long concealed. Public indignation rose in proportion as each terrible fact
got whispered about; and to anticipate as far as possible any action which might
be taken in the Scottish Parliament, Dalrymple resigned his ofBces before the
end of that year so fatal to the reputation of King William and himself. With
a dilatoriness not creditable to the King the Report of a Royal Commission
regarding the massacre was delayed for over three years, when a resolution
was come to "that William's instructions afforded no warrant for the measure;"
but, "considering that the Master of Stair's excess in his letters against the
Glencoe men has been the original cause of this unhappy business, and hath
given occasion in a great measure to so extraordinary an execution, by the
warm directions he gives about doing it by way of surprise, and considering
the station and trust he is in, and that he is absent, we do therefore beg that
your Majesty will give such orders about him for vindication of your Government
as you in your royal wisdom shall think fit. And likewise, considering that the
actorg have barbaroualy killed men under trust, we humbly desire your Majesty

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

would be pleased to send the actors home, and to give orders to your Advocate
to prosecute them according to law," It is but right to say that letters to and
from Breadalbanc, in the charter-chest at Taymouth, give colour to the opinion
that King William was cogaisant of all that passed in Scotland, discussing in
particular this Highland matter so frequently with Stair, Queeusberry, and Tarbat,
as to make it ail but certain that Glencoe fell into the trap prepared really for
Keppoch and Glengarry. "Tarbat (writes Stair) thinks that Keppoch will be
a more proper example of severity, but he hath not a house so proper for a
garrison, and he hath not been so forward to ruin himself, and all the rest.
But, I confess, both's best to be ruined."

The Lord-President succeeded his father as second Viscount in November
of the same year (1695), but public feeling regarding the Glencoe outrage had
increased to such a pitch that he declined taking his seat in Parliament for five
years. Soon after the accession of Queen Anne he was sworn a Privy Councillor
and created Earl of Stair, As one of the Commissioners for framing the Treaty
of Union the Earl of Stair gave it powerful support in its passage through
Parliament. The Earl died suddenly January 8, 1707, his last speech being
delivered that day in the course of an animated debate on one of the closing
articles of the treaty providing for the election of representative Peers and the
number of members to be sent to the Commons. Active and prominent as Stair
had always been in the public service of his country (except during the Glencoe
retirement), he had yet not reached the age of more than fifty-nine years at
death.

An e\il destiny still seemed to follow the family, notwithstanding all their
gifts and worldly prosperity, John, second son of preceding, and successor in the
Earldom, having the misfortune when a mere boy to shoot his elder brother by
accident Earl John had seen service under Marlborough at Ramilies and
Malplaquet. As British Ambassador at Paris he manifested considerable hostility
to the schemes of Law, the Finance Minister, which led to his being recalled,
when he took up his residence at Newlislon, to pass his leisure time in planting

i

KELSURNE, HAWKBEAD, AND EARLS OF GLASGOW. 91

trees and cultivating caTibages i[i the open air for the first time in Scotlani^.
On the dissolution of Walpole's Ministry in 1742, Lord Stair was recalled to
public life, appointed Commander-in-Chief of the allied army in Flanders, and
fought with King George at Dettingen. Earl John died at Edinburgh, 1747,
aged 74. Among his successors were Captain John Dalrymple, fifth Earl
(cousin of William, fourth Earl of Dumfries, and also fourth Earl of Stair, under
the patent), author of various political treatises, and John, eighth Earl, son of
Sir John DalrympJe of Cranston, author of " Memoirs of Great Britain and
Ireland" The present holder of the honours is John, tenth Earl of Stair, who,
when Lord Dalrymple, sat as M.P. for Wigtownshire, 1841-56 ; and was
Lord High Commissioner to the General Assembly of the Ciiurch of Scotland,
1869-72, His eldest son, Viscount Dalrymple, unsuccessfully contested Wigtown-
shire in the Liberal interest, when he was defeated by Sir Herbert Maxwell
(Conservative), the voters polled being 768 to 782.

KELBURNE, HAWKHEAD, AND EARLS OF
GLASGOW.

Descended from a house famous over five hundred years since for its long
descent — famous even among houses of such high repute as the Corayns and
Mures, the Boyles of Kelbume have for generation after generation taken a
prominent part in the pubhc business of Ayrshire and Renfrewshire, and, indeed,
of the West of Scotland generally. Seated almost as early as authentic records
reach at Kelbume, Largs parish, the most northerly in Cunningham or North
Ayrshire, a marriage with an heiress of George, Lord Ross, brought, about the
middle of last century, the lands of Hawkhead, Renfreivshire, to the Boyle of

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORV.

his day (1754), then John, third Earl of Glasgovr. A Richard Boyle, of Kelburne,
is knonrn to have married, about iz6o, Anicia, daughter of Sir Gilchrist Mure,
of Rowallan, by his wife, daughter and heiress of thai Waiter Comyn who had
early in the reign of Alexander III. (1249-86) succeeded in expelling the Mures
from their Ayrshire possessions. Sir John Boyle, a descendant in the sixth
generation, adhered to the cause of James III. as against his son, put forward
by the discontented nobles, and fell on the field of Sauchiebum, near Stirling,
where the King himself wa.<< treacherously murdered, 148S. As the houses of
Cochrane and Eoyle came to have an early as well as a late connection through
marriage, so had the Boyles a double connection with the Rosses, Lords of
Hawkhead, for in addition to the heiress, Elizabeth, mentioned above, John Boyle,
son of the John who fell at Sauchie, married Agnes, daughter of the first
Lord Ross of Hawkhead. He afterwards fell at Flodden (1513), where his
brother-in-law, John, Lord Ross, was also slain. A son, John Boyle, got a
charter of the lands of Ballehewin, Meikle Cumbrae, and was also made
hereditary coroner of the island. An only surviving son was John Boyle of
Halkshill, whose great-grandson, David, married his cousin, the heiress of
Kelburne, and carried on the family succession. This heiress was Grizel Boyle,
daughter of John of Kelburne by Agnes, only daughter of Sir John Maxwell of
Pollok, and Margaret, daughter of William Cunningham of Caprington; issue
three sons and one daughter. The eldest, John of Kelburne, sat as member for
Buteshire in the Parliament of 1681. By his marriage with Marion, daughter of
Sir William Steuart of AHanton, John Boyle, left with a daughter, two sons,
David, raised to the peerage as first Earl of Glasgow, and Wilhara, a Commissioner
of Customs for Scotland, who died in 1685.

David Boyle of Kelburne, after sitting as member for Bute in the Convention
Parliament of 1689, was sworn of the Privy Council, and on 31st January, 1699,
created a Peer by the title of Lord Boyle of Kelburne, Stewarton, Cumbrae,
Largs, and Dairy, with reminder to his issue, male and heirs-male whatsoever.
By patent, dated 12th April, 1703, Lord Boyle was advanced to the dignity of

^

KELBURNE, HAWKHEAD, AND EARLS OF GLASGOW. 93

Earl of Glasgow, the Crown acknowledging thereby his zeal for the Protestant
succession and patriotic endeavour to check the plots of disaffected Jacobites.
Earl David some years earlier had succeeded the Duke of Lennox as Bailie of
the Regality of Glasgow, an office which empowered the holder to appoint the
Provosl as well as the lesser Magistrates of the City, In 1706 Earl David was
appointed Lord High Commissioner to the General Assembly of the Church of
Scotland, and filled that office for four successive years afterwards. Chosen for
a second time a representative Peer at the general election of 1708, he was the
same year constituted Lord-Clerk Register for Scotland, and discharged for six
years the duties of that high office of State, which has since again fallen to his
descendant, the present George Frederick Boyle, sixth Earl of Glasgow, At a
threatening period of Mar's rebellion in 1715, Earl David made offer to Gcoige I.
of 1000 men at his own expense for the service of the Government, and personally
took an active part besides, in training the fencible men of Ayrshire, fiis
Lordship died ist November, 1733. Earl David was twice married, first to
Margaret Crawford, eldest daughter of Patrick of Kilbirnie, sister of John, first
Viscount Gamock, and in whose right, under an entail, the estates of Crawford
Priory, Kilbirnie, &c., came into the possession of George Boyle, fourth Earl of
Glasgow, on the death of I^dy Mary Lindsay Crawford, unmarried, 1833. lly
this, his first marriage, Earl David had four sons, the eldest being John, his
successor and second Eari, born 1697; a younger, Patrick, studied for the law,
passing advocate 1712, and was elevated to the bench as Lord Shewalton on the
death of James Elphiostone, Lord Balmerinoch, December, 1746. Lord Shewalton
died at Drumlanrig, 31st March, 1761, unmarried. Earl David married secondly,
Jane, daughter and heiress of William Mure of Rowallan, and by her had two
daughters— ^i) Anne, who died unmarried, and (z) Jane of Rowallan, married to
Sir James Campbell of Lawera, a distinguished military officer who fought at
Dettingen, and fell at Fontenoy, commanding the British horse, 29th April, 1745.
Their son, James Mure-Campbeli of Lawers, succeeded as Earl of Loudoun, and
assumed the additional surname of Muir OD inheriting the Ayrshire estates of his

94 ^ii& WEST COUNTRY W HISTORY,

grandmother, the second Countess of Glasgow, mentioned above, who died
September, 1734. Earl David died ist Novetnber, 1733, and was succeeded by
his eldest son, John, as second Earl.

John, second Earl of Glasgow, bom 1C87, died at Kelbume, May, 1740, aged
53 years, leaving by his wife Helen, daughter of William Morrison of Presto ngrange,
with other issue, two sons — (1) John, his successor, and (2) Patrick, father of David
Boyle, Lord Justice-General, and President of the Court of Session (1811-1852),
from whom descended that family of the Boyles of Shewalton, presently represented
by David, Captain R.N., son of Patrick, of Shewalton, born May, 1833, and
married July, 1873, Dorothea, eldest daughter of Sir Edward Hunter Blair, Bart.,
with issue three sons and three daughters.

John, third Earl of Glasgow, born 4th November, 1714, entered the army, in
which he rose to the rank of captain, and was severely wounded in two historical
engagements— Fontenoy, April, 1745, and Laffeldt, July, 1747. In 1764 he was
called upon to fill the office, previously in his family, of Lord High Commissioner
to the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland, and continued the same for
eight successive years. Earl John died on 7th March, 1775, the memory of the
brave soldier being affectionately commemorated at the desire of his widowed
Countess by the erection of a marble memorial in a romantic situation within the
grounds of Kelburuo, on the banks of Kelbume Water. Earl John married
Elizabeth, second daughter of George, thirteenth Lord Ross of Hawkhead, and sole
heiress of her brother William, fourteenth Lord Ross, who died August, 1754, after
enjoying the honours of that very ancient lordship for only a few weeks. In a
settlement made by the above George Lord Ross, in 1751, the destination was
confined first to heirs-male of his body, and, failing them, to his daughters and their
heirs. The Ross Barony of Hawkhead thereupon passed to John, third Earl
Glasgow, and has ever since remained in the family, the succeeding Earl George,
father of the present Earl, being in 1815 made a Peer of the United Kingdom as
Baron Ross of Hawkhead. The other Ross property of Balnagowan, Ross-shire,
passed, after a brief litigation, to his Lordship's cousin, Sir James Lockhart, second

r

KELBURNE, HAWKHEAD, AND EARLS OF GLASGOW. 95

baronet of Carstairs, whose mother, Grizel, was the third daughter of William,
twelfth Lord Ross. In the Parliamentary Return of Owners of Lands and
Heritages {1874), Hawkhead is entered as comprising 4453 acres, with a gross
annual rental of ^6811, exclusive of minerals, £,^%o. The mansion-house —
originally a plain, square tower — built near a bend of the White Cart, but well
screened from that now scarcely pure stream, and with ground on every side
otherwise well wooded, was greatly added to in 1634 by James, fourth Lord Ross,
and his lady. Dame Margaret Scott, eldest daughter of that Walter, first Lord Scott
of Buccleuch, by Mary, daughter of Sir William Kerr of Cessford, and sister of
Robert, first Earl of Roxburghe, her husband being celebrated also in Border
minstrelsy as directing the rescue of " Kinmont Will " from Carlisle Castle. At
Hawkhead an entertainment is said to have been given in October, 1681, by the
loyalist William tenth, Lord Ross, to James, Duke of York {aflerwards King James
IL of England), kinsman to that Countess Anne of Buccleuch who, "in pride of
youth and beauty's bloom, had wept o'er Monmouth's bloody tomb." This
Countess Anne was grand-niece of Dame Margaret Scott, mentioned above as
having married James, fourth Lord Ross, progenitor of the noble host who enter-
tained Monmouth's uncle at Hawkhead, For much of its modem attractions— its
trim gardens, its pleasant walks, and its shaded bowers — Hawkhead, house, and
grounds, is indebted to the care and munificence of Elizabeth Ross, Countess of
John, third Earl, who in 1782 gave her old family mansion such thorough repairs
and seemly additions as has made it one of the most desirable residences in the
county. It was lately (1884) occupied by the Hon. T. Cochrane and his wife,
the Lady Gertrude Boyle, eldest daughter of the Ear! of Glasgow.

Succeeding John came George, fourth Earl of Glasgow, G.C.H., F.R.S., born
36th March, 1766, and elevated to the British Peerage as Baron of Hawkhead,
Renfrew, nth August, 1815; a Captain in the West Lowland Fencibles; Colonel of
the Renfrewshire Militia; Lord-Lieutenant of that county, and afterw.irds of
Ayrshire; a representative Peer prior to his elevation as Baron Ross of Hawkhead ;
and Lord Rector of Glasgow University, 1817. On the death of his relative, Lady

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

Maiy Lindsay Crawford, unmanied, 1833, Earl George succeeded to her in-
heritance in the lands of Crawford Priory, Fifeshire, as well as to others in
Kilbimte parish, Ayrshire. The first mentioned is entered in the Pariiamentary
Return already referred to as consisting of 5625 acres, with a gross annual value
(exclusive of;^6o los. for minerals) of ^9024. An addition to the family property
was also made about this time by the acquisition of the Garrison lands, Isle of
Cumbrae, in addition to others already in possession of the family. The "Garrison"
is so named from the original residence slightly fortified, built there in the middle
of last century by Andrew Crawford, commander of the first revenue cutter placed
on that station, George, fourth Earl, who died 6th July, 1843, married twice— (i)
4th March, 1788, Augusta, daughter of James, fourteenth Earl of Errol, and had issue,
John, Viscount Kelburne, a naval officer, bom 1789, died 181S ; James, fifth Earl;
William, born iBoz, died 1819; Isabella, Elizabeth, and Augusta, the latter
married to Lord Frederick Filzclarence. Earl George married (2) November
1894, Julia, daughter by a second marriage of the learned and patriotic statesman.
Sir John Sinclair, Bart, of Ulbster; Earl George died 6th July, 1843, and the
Countess Julia 19th February, 1868, leaving George Frederick, present Eari, and
Diana, who in July, 1849, married the Hon. John Sl.iney Pakington, second Lord
Hampton, eldest son of Sir John Pakinglon, first Lord Hampton, an esteemed
servant of the Crown, 1S53-68. The Hon. Lady Diana Pakington died 1st
January, 1877.

James, fifth Earl of Glasgow, bom loth April, 1792; entered the navy, 1807;
became lieutenant, 1814; and subsequently captain. As I>ord Kelburne he in
1837 contested Ayr county unsuccessfully against Sir John Dunlop of Dunlop, but
on the death of the latter in 1839, Lord Kelburne again came forward against
Mr. Campbell of Craigie, whom he defeated by a large majority, and held the seat
till called to the House of Lords on the death of his father in 1843, His Lordship
was master of the Renfrewshire hounds, and an ardent, honourable, although never
a very lucky, patron of the turf. Earl James died loth March, 1S69, when, there
being no issue by his marriage with Miss Mackenzie, daughter of Edward Hay of

KELBURNE, HAWKHEAD, AND EARLS OF GLASGOW.

91

New Hall, Cromarty, the succession devolved upon his half-bralher, the sixth or
present Earl of Glasgow.

George Fredericlc Boyle, born 9th October, 1825 ; educated at Christ Church,
Oxford, talcing his B.A. degree 1847, and M.A. 1850 — represented Buteshire in
Parliament for a. few months during i86g, having defeated his opponent, J. Lamont
of Knockdhu, on the elevation of David Mure to the bench, but was in turn
defeated in the second contest which took place on occasion of the general election
in autumn of the same year. Before this date, or in 1843, Mr. Boyle had not only
erected the beautiful little church of St. Andrew's within the Garrison policies,
Cumbrae, but built at his own charge from designs by Bulterfield, and on a
commanding site within the bounds of the same family property, the extensive,
costly, and ornate Cathedral Coliegiate Church of the Isles, intended for the three-
fold purpose of giving assistance to the clergy of the diocese, to aiford a retreat for
a limited number of aged or infirm clergj'men, and to prepare a few students for (he
service of the Church, more especially in Gaelic districts. The College, governed
by a Provost, with the Bishop of Argyll as visitor, was taken possession of by
students and choristers in November, 1850, the church being opened for service the
following year, and consecrated 1876. Succeeding to the family honours on tlie
death of Earl James in 1869, Lord Glasgow had restored to him on the death of
Sir W. Gibson-Craig (1878) the high honour held by an ancestor of Lord-Clerk
Register of Scotland, and keeper of the Signet. His Lordship is also convener of
the county of Bute (succeeding the late A. B. Stewart, Esq. of Ascog, 1880), and
Chief Magistrate of the Burgh of Millport— duties which he discharges with un-
wearied attention and courtesy, the latter none the less from the circumstance that
the Garrison residence on the Island was long occupied and much improved by his
mother, the Dowager- Countess, and himself. The Earl George Frederick, married
^glh April, 1856, the Hon. Miss Montagu Abercromby, only daughter of George
Ralph, third Lord Abercromby, and has issue Gertrude Julia Georgiana, born islh
November, 1861, who married Hon. Thomas H. A. E, Cochrane, with issue a son
and daughter; and Muriel^Louisa Diana, bom iSth November, 1873.

THE WEST COUNTRY IN mSTOJiY.

DUNDONALD AND ITS EARLS.

Unlike the square divisions or plots into which land is parcelled out in new
and thinly-peopted countries, parishes in Scotland — nor is England much different
— have been made to assume every variety of odd fantastic shape. In some cases,
indeed, they are made up of portions of land quite detached from each other, and
not unfrequently in dilTerenl counties. An explanation of this apparent irregularity
both as to shape and size, must be sought for, at least partly, in the conditions
under which the land came to be laid out in distinct portions, parishes, or town-
ships. There is first, if any reliance is to be placed on the most recent researches
into early land tenures, the village commune, where the inhabitants not only held
the soil in common, but frequently stocked and cultivated it in common. Then,
when we come down with clearer vision to a point almost touching authentic
history, there is possession of Ihe soil by the Crown alone, often gifted with
wonderful munificence to relations and followers; but the origin of the possession,
not even yet understood with certainty. After this the inquirer gets a more stable
footing within the period of documents, or at the very least of assured tradition.
Next comes the feudal period, when the baron held land, doing suit and service for
the same to the sovereign, and dividing it again among his own retainers on nearly
the same condition of mustering under his banner in the field. Running parallel
with this feudal tenure, but having interests of its own of a more beneficent
character, there was the parish as a diocese or district assigned to a particular
Church, and where, in process of time, the teinds in its support could only be
collected within strictly defined limits. After this, and as presently existing, the
parish boundaries came to be affected by the necessities for local self-government,
and the administration of the law relating to parochial relief. All these conditions
have helped to make parishes what they are in shape and size. Dundonald, with
which we are more immediately concerned, presents an outline so irregular as to

DUNDONALD AND ITS EARLS.

99

make the " beating of its bounds," were such a ceremony necessary, an undertaking
requiring the nicest observation and thorough parochial experience. Its broadest,
or northern part, extending from Riccarton to Fullarton, a distance of some seven
miles, marked wholly by the course of the Irvine, is touched by no fewer than four
parishes — Irvine, Dreghom, Kilmaurs, and Riccarton, Kilmarnock almost edging
in within the last two. Along its eastern side there is Symington and Monkton, but
on the west, bending for the most part smoothly inland, there is nothing but the sea
or Firth of Clyde for another seven miles from Fullarton to Monkton, which
Dundonald overlaps for a short distance on the south. The only break on the
westward line may be said to be Troon Point, which with the port lies within
Dundonald parish.

Crowning the summit of a pleasant hill west of Dundonald village, the now
ruined Castle, so closely identified with the history of the parish, and dating as it
does from the thirteenth, or probably the twelfth century, may be said to correspond
in time with the arrival of the first Noiman Stewarts in Scotland, and was
certainly occupied by them long before any succession to the throne had opened up
to that high oSicial in the Royal household which gave name to the family. Here,
till he was long past middle age, lived Robert 11., first of the Royal race, reused to
the throne under an Act of Settlement as son of Walter the Stewart and Marjory
Bruce, daughter of the great King Robert and half-sister of Bruce's son, David II.,
who died in February 1371. At Dundonald Robert II. married, under a Papal
dispensation, that Elizabeth Mure of Rowallen who had become attached to the
Stewart while he was living at the old castle in retirement during the brief usurpa-
tion of Edward Baliol. Here, too, full of years, the first sovereign of the Stuart race
died in peace, 1390, having withdrawn from Dunfermline when the power of the
Crown was practically wielded by a son. Earl of Fife, in name of the heir, an elder
brother, John, known better in history under the more popular title of Robert III.
A loose tradition has been handed down that a still earlier castle, on the site, was
built of wood by a certain Donald Din or Dun Donald, who acquired great fame in
this part of Kyle through discovering a pot of gold as revealed in a dream, like so

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

many similar stories of sudden riches current in lands far beyond Ayrshire. The
present castle, greatly dismantled by the Cochranes to build their new house of
Auchans adjoining, still presents, even in ruin, many traces of ils ancient grandeur.
It is two stories in height, and measures 130 feet by 40 feet, On its western wall
traces may still be found of the Stewart armorial bearings, as also of a " keep " or
prison, and a wide protecting moat The fabric, with a few roods of land adjoining,
is the last remnant of Ayrshire property possessed by the Cochrane Earis of
Dundonald, famous in Renfrewshire before being ennobled as lairds of the Barony
of Cochrane, an estate on the west side of Paisley Abbey Parish, now mostly
included within the lands owned by G. L. Houstoun, Esq. of Johnstone.

In addition to Cochrane, the Sir William of the day (1640) possessed the
Ayrshire lands of Dundonald and Auchans, and, in consideration ofhis loyaltyand
munificence to the Crown during the civil war, was in 1647 created a Peer as Lord
Cochrane of Dundonald. The higher title of Earl of Dundonald, with that of Baron
of Paisley and Ochiltree, was conferred in 1669 by Charles II. A few years before
this date Earl William had, for 160,000 pounds Scots, acquired the rich lordship of
Paisley from the Earl of Angus, trustee for James, second Earl of Abercom, who in
1621, fell heir as grandson of the Commendator, Claud Hamilton, "grey Paisley's
haughty Lord," Earl William resided at the Place of Paisley, and from memorial
stones still to be seen there, would appear, in or about 1675, to have made
important additions to the original fabric. In 1658 he disposed of the superiorities
of the burgh to the Bailies and community, and gave ihem power at the same time
to elect their own magistrates, up to that dale nominated by himself, in terms of
clauses contained in the charter of 1488 granted to Abbot Shaw, by which Paisley
was erected into a free burgh of barony. A charter was obtained for the burgh
from Charles II. in 1665. The Earl died in Paisley, 1686, and was buried at
Dundonald, leaving, by his wife Euphame, daughter of Scott of Ardross, Fifeshire,
one son, known early in life as Sir John Cochrane of Ochiltree, much mixed up
with the Presbyterian plots of his day, and uncle of John, second Earl, whose father
William had predeceased the first Earl. The daughter, Lady Grizel Cochrane,

J

I

DVNDONALD AND TTS EARLS.

became first mfe of George, tenth Lord Ross of Hawkhead, Renfrewshire, a family
connection to be renewed in after years by the marri^e of the Hon. Thomas
Cochrane, second son of the present Earl, with Lady Gertrude, eldest daughter of
George Frederick Boyle, present and sixth Earl of Glasgow.

Among later members of the family who greatly distinguished themselves were
William, seventh Earl, sprung from the Cochranes of Kilmaronock, Dumbartonshire,
killed in 1758 when engaged in the siege of Louisbourg; Tliomas, of the house of
Ochiltree, eighth Earl, engaged in the fight at Prestoopans, and who left at death
eleven sons, by his wife Jane, eldest daughter of Archibald Stuart of Torrance.
Charles, third son, was killed while serving in America under Sir Henry Clinton;
James, fifth son, was vicar of Mansfield, and author of various treatises in theology
and chemistry; Basil, also an author, purchased the barony of Auchterarder,
I'erthshire; while Sir Alexander was a prominent naval officer in his day, and wrote
several esteemed books of travel. Archibald, ninth Earl, is now less known for his
numerous scientific treatises than as the father of the great Thomas, Lord Cochrane,
tenth Earl of Dundonald.

Bom in 1775, Lord Cochrane entered the navy when only ten years of J^e, and
while but a youth was promoted by admiral Keith, for exceptionally courageous
services, to the command of a sloop of fourteen guns, in which many daring and
successful feats were undertaken against Spanish ships of war. Early in 1806, when
commanding the Pallas frigate, of 31 guns, he ascended the Gironde, 20 miles above
the Cordovan shoals, and boldly cut out a frigate lying under the protection of two
heavy batteries. But the crowning achievement of this period (1809) of Lord
Cochrane's life, was his attack on the French Heet then being blockaded by Admiral
Gambier in the Basque Roads. Here he personally conducted the explosion ship
with such terrific results to the enemy that popular enthusiasm was no more than
satisfied when he was created a Knight of the Bath. Lord Cochrane had been
previously twice returned to Parliament — first for Honiton, and in 1807 for West-
minster. Opposing as a Radical Percival's Tory Ministry; and disliked otherwise in
Parliament through a misunderstanding of certain charges he had brought against

THE WEST COVSTXV IX HISTORY.

I

Adnmil Gsmbier, odraiUge wm t^eo to by, fiae, ud inipnKW the pBaot olScn'
00 S CJMiKCf CfKCMOMMiy wsot, J> WM aBawaRB pRwed, of betng nfttd np with
certain Stock Eidiange traBaiciiom cameeted with a Edie tqMrt of Na pnie o a ' i
defeat b7 the alliea. Lord Co d ta ao e wa» afao deprived of bit boaom and &»aed
the MTTice Retvaed aj^atn for WestmtiuteT, he band it hopelen at the time
either to terve hb conuitoents or vindicate himself as be wished, and aa offer there-
fore was gladlj accepted to cotDtBand the Chilian fleet on the cooat of Sooth
AiDcricft. The new ftag under which he served once more triomphed over Spain,
and towards the close of ihe war of Independence Lord Cochrane passed, wiifa
Incresaed honour, into the terrice of BraziL In 1830, when the Wliigs got into
power, and a year before socceedtng his father in the Earldom, Lord Cochrane, then
looked upon as the victim of party spite, was restored to his rank in the British
ntry. Yean brought additional honours to the hnr^ly used officer, being made a
Vtce-Admfail in 1 847, Connnandcr on the North American and West Indian stations
1848-54, and Rcar-Admiral of the United Kingdom 1854. Thomas, tenth Earl of
Dnndonald, died October 31, i860, leanng by his wife — danghier of Thomas
fiamcs, Essex — four sons and a daughter. A nephew. Captain J. D, Cochrane, was
well known In his day as an eccentric pedestrian trareller over most of the continent
of Europe and Siberian Tartary.

The eldest son of Admiral Dundonald, Thomas Barnes, Lord Cochrane, present
Earl, bom 1814, succeeded on the death of his father, and by marriage (1847) with
Louisa Harriet, daughter of W. A, Mackinnon of Mackinnon, his issue two sons and
four daugliteni, the eldest being Douglas Mackinnon, Lord Cochrane, bom October,
185a, and married (1858) Winifred, only surviving daughter of Robert Bamford
Hetketh, Gwyrch Castle, Denbigh, with issue one daughter, Grizel \Vinifred Louise,
bom May, 1880. A second son, the Hon. Thomas Horatio Arthur, late Lieutenant
of Scots Guards, born md April, 1857, married and December, 1880, Lady Gertrude
Boyle, daughter of George Frederick, 6th and present Earl of Glasgow, with issue
Louisa Gertrude, bom 8th January, i88a, and Thomas George Frederick, bom
19th March, 1883. The Hon. Mr. Cochrane, with Lady Gertrude and family,

{

COILSFIELD AND THE MONTGOMERIES.

»o3

lately (18S4) occupied Hawkhead, the barony brought to the Boyles, Earls of
Gla^ow, through the inamage of John, third Earl, vith Elizabeth, daughter of
George, Lord Ross.

COILSFIELD AND THE MONTGOMERIES.

Whether the old Eglinton mansion of C'oilsfield was renamed altogether out of
deference to Uurns's fine lines, descriptive of those " banks and braes and streams
around the Castle o' Montgomery;" or whether it was to keep fresh those tender
memories of ■' Highland Mary," so closely associated with the house ; or whether it
was judged to be a seemly compliment to the name of its early owners — whether for
any of these reasons, or for all of them, with others added, the substitution of
"Montgomery Castle" for Coilsfield has at least avoided the possible degradation
of the name to "Culsfield," as has happened with a parish only a few miles south,
but on the other side of Ayr water. Coylton years ago had degenerated in the
common speech of its natives to " Culton," an unmeaning corruption, having no
sort of apparent affinity, as it should have, with either Kyle or Coila. Coilsfield
itself, as has been mentioned, although nearly in the centre of Kyle district, is not
in Coylton, but in Tarbolton parish — on the right bank of the Feale, below the
Abbey ruins, greatly altered since Burns's day by modern classic additions, but still
embowered in those woods where " Simmer first unfaulds her robes." The traveller
in this region of song may catch a glimpse of Montgomery Castle by approaching
coastward from Tarboiton village, from which the mansion is distant only a good
mile, or, if more convenient, he may travel westward from Mauchline, by way of
Failford, a good deal longer but equally romantic route. The estate, within which
tradition affirms the remains of " Old King Coil " were laid, is now in the
possession of Mr, William Paterson,

104

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

Putting aside mere minute genealogical details, with which these sketches are
not much concerned, it may be stated generally that Hugh, third Baron of the
family, and first Earl of Eglinton, was fourth in the line from that Sir John
Montgomery, seventh laird of E^lesham, who distinguished himself at Otterburn
by capturing the fiery Hotspur, as detailed in the familiar old ballad of the light : —

"Tlie PercjF «nd Montgomery mel,
That either of other were fain,
Tliey swapped swords, and Ihey Iwa swil,
And aye the blood nn down between."

The patent of creation in favour of Earl Hugh was dated aoth January, 1508.
After him came a succession of four Hughes, all Earls of Eglinton, the last of
this early line of Montgomeries, Hugh, fifth Earl, being succeeded in i6ii by his
cousin, Alexander Selon, father, among others, of James of Coilsfield, who, by his
wife, daughter of John Macdonald, Kintyre, had a son, Hugh, from whom
descended the present Earls of Eglinton. Hugh married twice — (1) Jean,
daughter of Sir William Primrose, with issue three daughters; (2) the famous
beauty, Katherine Arbuckle, widow of John Hamilton of Letbara. By her first
marriage Mrs. Hamilton had, among other sons, Basil, who married Mai^aret,
daughter of Clerk of Brackleken, whose family held large estates in Argyllshire as
far back as the reign of James II. Their daughter, Bazil!, married Captain Henry
Beatson, of Glasmont, Fifesbire, grandfather of the Beatsons and Lacys of
Campbeltown. By her marriage with Hugh Montgomery of Coilsfield, Katherine
Arbuckle bore, with two daughters and three sons, Hugh, who took up the honours
of the family on the death (1796} without male issue, of Archibald, eleventh Earl,
brother of Alexander, tenth Earl, shot on Ardrossan sands by a poaching exciseman,
named Mungo Campbell, as described in a former papen The elder Hugh of
Coilsfield was also father of that James Montgomery, a Lieutenant-General in the
army, Grand Master in the masonic lodge of Tarbolton, of which Burns was made
Depute-Master, 1784-5. In one of his early Edinburgh letters (March 8, 1787),

i

COILSFIELD AND THE MONTGOMERIES.

"OS

addressed to Gavin Hamilton, the poet makes reference to his right worshipful
brother, the General, in connection with an aliment case before the Supreme Court,
of some interest in its day to Ayrshire people,

Coilsfield House, purchased by the Montgomeries from Cunningham of
Capriogton, is connected with the life of at least two of Burns's heroines.
" Montgomery's Peggy," whom he had met first at Kirkoswald, when attending
Rodger's school, passed afterwards into the Coilsfield family as a housekeeper or
upper servant, and permitted herself to be wooed and sung of by the youth of
twenty for some six or eight months, when she informed him that her heart had
already been given to another. Peggy Thomson, with whom the good lass has
been identified, became the wife of a person named Neilson, and lived long in
Ayr. But it is with " Highland Mary" that the most tender memories of Coilsfield
are entwined. Bums himself threw such an air of mystery and perplexing fancy
over his connection with Mary Campbell that little more than surmise regarding
either her movements or position is now possible ; but it is not going far beyond
what is known to presume that some time in the summer of 17S5 she passed from
service in Gavin Hamilton's house to Coilsfield, there to act as dairymaid, or, it
may be, as nurse to some of the younger children of Hugh Montgomery. Within
the grounds, and not far from the junction of the Faile with the Ayr, it is almost
certain that romantic meeting and parting took place on the second Sunday in
May (r4th May, 1786), when they swore everlasting fidelity to each other, as
recorded in the famous Bibles now appropriately placed in the monument at
Brig 0' Dooa after a curious enough history. This brief episode — for it was
little more — in the poet's career— was dosed by the death of "Highland Mary"
in her father's house at Greenock sometime, it is thought, during the month of
Ociober following.

When Hugh Montgomery succeeded as twelfth Earl of Eglinton, only a
portion of the then wide estates passed to him with the title, a valuable share
falling to Lady Montgoraene, elder and only surviving daughter of the preceding
Earl, Archibald. Bom in 1739, Hugh Montgomerie entered the army in 1755,

te6

TSM W£S7 COUNTRY IN BrsTORY.

nul^ after Mning with dudnctkm in Araenca, ni appototed nojor m ibe AisjD
or Wealeni Fencibles ^len hostilities troke ottt with France in 1778. Sti yean
later, when known ai Hugh ai Skelmoriie, hi* lather living at CoOsfidd till 1783,
he fooceeded Sir Adam Fcrgusson of EHkeintn, in the representatjoo of Ayrshire
and fat till 1789, «4ien, on being appointed inspector of military roadi, he was
succeeded in turn by Sir Adam. Hogh Hontgomerie again entered the Comntoni
for a few months in 1796, bat on succeeding to the Earldom that yeai as heir-
nule, the scat was won by Colonel Fullerton of FulleitoiL Eail Hngjii had some
yean before this been appointed Lieut-Governor of Edinburgh Castle, in room of
Lord Elphinstone, and Colonel of the Western Fendbles. a Lowland i^ntent
noticeable for havmg worn the Highland dress. A representative Peer froro 1798
to i8otf, Earl Hugh was in the lait-roentioned year rmsed to the British Peetage
as Baron Ardro&san. He was now becoming known as one of the most
munificent, patriotic, and enterpTiaing noblemen of his time, carrying out as he
did valuable improvements on the estate, especially in the neighbourhood of
Kilwinning, commenced, so far as planting was concerned, by a predecessor,
Alexander, tenth Earl. Between 1797 and 1800 Earl Hugh also rebuilt Eglinton
Castle, from designs by Paterson, on a scale of princely magnificence, worthy at
once of his own long-descended house, and of the beautiful site it occupies on
the banks of the Lugton. Sut even this was (o be surpassed by his noble
ambition 10 construct a grand harbour at Ardrossan for the purpose of making
that place a principal port of Glasgow, with which it was to be connected by a
canal passing through Johnstone and Paisley. Only a portion of this latter scheme
was carried out, the application of steam to purposes of navigation, as well as to
the conveyance of goods by land, coming to supersede the original scheme con-
templated by the Earl. Commenced in i8o6, the works at Ardrossan were
brought to a standstill in 1815, when, although ^100,000 had been expended,
the Engineers, Telford and Rennie, indicated the likelihood of ;^3oo,ooo more
being required. The works were resumed in 1833, when Archibald William,
thirteenth Earl, came of age, and then completed on a reduced scale, but not

I

i

COILSFIELD AND THE MONTGOmERIES. 107

before the entire expenditure was found to have reached ;;^2oo,ooo. This lavish
expenditure on public projects, without any return in his day, began to exhaust
even Earl Hugh's rent-roll, and various properties were sold to meet pressmg
obligations. Now, it is thought, also commenced the burdening of that wide
Eaglesham estate, sold outnght to Mr. Gilmour about 1840 by Earl Archibald,
after having been in possession of the Montgomery family for over five hundred
years. A brave soldier, but a strict disciplinarian, his easiness of access to
tenantry, and an unbounded hospitality, suggesting more of the ancient baron
than the modem nobleman, made Earl Hugh extremely popular among all classes
in the West Country. An enthusiast in music, even to the extent of keeping a
family piper, the Earl had no great taste or desire for public speaking. In his
"Earnest Cry and Prayer," Burns describes his patron as

"Sodger Hugh, my watchman stented,
If bardies ere are represented,
I ken that if yonr sword were wanted

Ye'd lend your hand ;
But when there's ought to say anent it

Ye're at a stand."

Earl Hugh died 15th December, 18 19, having had by his wife Elenora, daughter
of Robert Hamilton of Bourtreehill, two sons and two daughters. The elder
son, Archibald, Lord Montgomery, a Major-General in the army, predeceased his
father, leaving two sons, Hugh, who died young, and is commemorated by a
marble column erected by his grandfather in a retired part of Eglinton woods, and
Archibald William, who became thirteenth Earl.

Bom at Palermo in 18 12, Earl Archibald had a long minority, not unfavour-
able to the nursing of his estate, and which enabled him, as has been mentioned,
to complete some of Earl Hugh's schemes in a moderate way. A leading patron
in all manly sports, Lord Eglinton was much liked in the hunting-field as well
as on the racecourse, where a fair measure of luck fell to horses he had trained

T08

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

or purchased, the fame of Flying Dutchman, and the match with Lord Zetland's
Voltigeur at York Spring Meeting in 1S51 being still a landmark in turf annals.
An attempt, sadly marred by the weather, was made by his Lordship in August,
1839, to recall even the bygone splendour of the Tournament by a display within
Eglinton grounds which kept society in talk for months, and drew countless visitors
from all parts of the kingdom, and many from the Continent, The hospitality at
the castle far surpassed anything ever seen in the best days of Earl Hugh, but at
a cost which touched heavily on the well-gathered savings made in by-gone years
for the young EarL Served heir to the attainted title of Winton in 1840, the Earl
of Eglinton twice dlled, with an acceptance amounting to enthusiasm, the office
of Irish Viceroy in the Ministry of Lord Derby — 1852-58. As early as 1843 he
was appointed Lord-Lieutenant of Ayrshire, and in 185a Earl Archibald William
was elected Ixird Rector of Glasgow University, the Order of the Thistle being
conferred upon his Lordship the following year. High-born, Lord Eglinton was
also high-minded, and, with a handsome figure, allied to fascinating manners, all
Scotland may be said to have felt proud of her son, whether he was discharging
public duties at home, improving the holdings of his tenantry and promoting
education among them, or smoothing down the asperities of Irish life by his
winning courtesy at Dublin Castle— a courtesy, it is but right to say, manifested
equally to all, of whatever creed or political profession. His death occurred with
startling suddenness in the house of his friend, Mr. Whyte Melville, St. Andrews,
4th October, 1861. By his first marriage with Theresa Newcomen, widow of
Commander R. H. Cockerell, R.N., Earl Archibald left two sons, the eldest being
Archibald William, present Earl, born 3rd December, 1841, and married Lady
Sophia, only daughter of second Earl of Yarborough, with issue four daughters.
At present, therefore, the heir-presumptive to this ancient house is his Lordship's
brother, Hugh Seton-Montolieu, late lieutenant in Scots Fusilier Guards, bom
1846, and married 1870, with issue one daughter, deceased.

THE EARLDOM OF CARRICK.

THE EARLDOM OF CARRICK.

Less in size than many of the northern earldoms, none of them— not even Angus,
Fife, or Huntly, not Stratheam itself, the patrimony of the mighty Malise— can be
made to render up a more romantic or interesting story than is connected with that
Carrick division of south Ayrshire, lying between the Doon and the northern boundary
of those princely feudatories in Galloway who more than once held the Crown in
check. The Carriclc district makes up only about a third part in the area of one
county, and that only seventh in size among the counties in Scotland, From
Bridge of Ness, Loch Doon, following the river course north-west to the sea or Ayr
Bay, the distance is about sixteen miles; from the mouth of Doon, mostly southward,
but tending a Uttlc west, to Galloway Burn, Glenapp, the distance is not much, if any-
thing, over forty-five miles. Carrick district first comes under the notice of historians
about the middle of the twelfth century, when it was held by a succession of
Uchtreds and Gilberts as part of the lordship of Galloway, Towards the close of
tlie same century Carrick was erected into an independent Earldom, and granted
by William the Lion to Duncan, held to have founded the Abbey of Croasraguel
about 1240. Following Duncan came a son, Nigel, or Neil, second Earl of Carrick,
one of the Regents and Guardians of Alexander IIL, who died in 1256, leaving by
his wife Margaret, daughter of Walter, High Stewart of Scotland, an only child, a
daughter, named also Margaret, or Marjory, who became Countess of Carrick in her
own right. Legend and tradition now get mixed up with anything that ever was
historical in the early history of the Earldom. The Norman, or rather the Yorkshire,
Bruces had acquired the Lordship of Annandalc from David L as early, it is
thought, as 1140, the honours of the family being held when Marjory succeeded lo
Carrick by Robert de Bruce, fifth I^rd, who came to be known in after years as the
Competitor, in virtue of being heir nearest the Crown in degree through his grand-
mother, Isabella, second daughter of the Earl of Huntingdon, younger brother of

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

I

William the Lion. John Baliol claimed as great grandson of the eldest daughter
Margaret The Competitor's eldest son, also Robert, accompanied Edward I. of
England (then Prince Edward} in his crusade to Palestine (1270-72), where he is
presumed to have fought along side of an Adam de Kiikonath, husband of Marjory
of Carridc, but slain on the field when charging the infidel hosts of the Sultan.
Returning to Scotland with the shattered remnant of Prince Edward's expedition,
young Bruce is reported to have been riding on one occasion near the Carrick
fortress of Turnberry, when the widowed Countess was out hunting with a retinue
of squires and fair dames. Struck, so the story goes by the nobility of his
appearance, Countess Marjory invited the young knight to join her in the chase
and be her guest for a time in that family stronghold, the ruins of which still overlook
the sea from Turnberry Point. Aware of the peril incurred by paying undue atten-
tion to a King's ward, as the Countess then was, Bruce courteously evaded the
invitation, but the gallant lady's wish was not to be so easily put aside, and on a
signal, given, it has been recorded, by herself, the retinue dosed in around him,
while the Countess seized his bridal reins, and led him off with gentle violence to
her castle. Within a fortnight they were married, and King Alexander soon after-
wards was induced to overlook the youthful indiscretion on payment of a heavy
fine. The second Robert Bruce thus became Earl of Carrick in right of his wife,
and she became mother of that stilt more famous third Robert Bruce, the hero of
Bannockburn and restorer of Scottish independence, born nth July, 1274.

It was within the walls of Turnberry that the most powerful Scottish and
English barons met on the death of King Alexander III., r2S6, to subscribe that
bond declaring that they would henceforth adhere to and take part with one another,
on all occasions, and against all persons, "saving their allegiance to the King of
England, and also thL'ir allegiance to liira who should gain the kingdom of Scotland
by right of descent." The Countess Marjory died some time before 1292, as in
November of that year Bruce, then in full possession, to avoid homage to Baliol,
resigned the Earldom of Carrick into the hands of his son Robert, then seventeen,
and afterwards retired to his English estates. Besides Robert, King of Scots,

THE EARLDOM OF CARRICK.

ihe Countess bore her husband five sons and seven daughtera— among them
being Edwaid, sixth Earl and King of Ulster; Thomas and Alexander, captured
in Galloway when bringing supplies to their eldest brother, and executed at
Carlisle by order of Edward I.; and Neil, a young man of exceptional comeliness,
taken at Kildrummie in 1306 and also executed. Of the daughtera, Lady
Christian married Bruce's attached friend, Sir Christopher Seton, also put to
death at Dumfries by the English in 1306.

As the career of the great King Robert belongs more to the history of
Scotland generally than to Carrick in particular, two circumstances only fall
to be specially mentioned. It was to Tumberry Bruce fled with his wife and
children after wasting the lands of William, Lord Douglas, Knight of Liddesdale;
and it was from the towers of his own paternal inlieritance that a fire, accidentally
kindled, became a signal for him to cross the firih from Arran for ihe purpose of
attempting the delivery of his country. One of the earliest feats to carry out the
resolve was a successful attack on Percy's English troops in Tumberry before
Bruce withdrew for safety to the mountain fastnesses of Carrick, but not before
he had put almost the entire garrison to the sword.

After King Robert the Earldom of Carrick was held by Edward Bruce, and
in succession by three of his illegitimate sons — Robert, slain at Dupplin, 1332;
Alexander, who fell at Halidon Hill, 1333; and Thomas, on whose death in 1334,
without Issue, the honours reverted to the Croivn in the person of David II. Held
for a very short time by Sir William Cunninghame, the King made a new grant to
John Stewart, Lord of Kyle, great grandson of King Robert I., and son of Robert
Stewart of Scotland, Earl of Siratheam. Succeeding to the throne as Robert HI.,
the title fell to his eldest son, the unfortunate Duke of Rothesay, who became
twelfth Earl of Carrick. In 1404 the King last mentioned granted in free regality
to his second son, James Stewart of Scotland, afterwards James L, the whole lands
of the Stewartry of Scotland, including the Earldom of Carrick. The title thus
came to be hereditary in the Royal Family as Princes and Stewarts of Scotland;
and since the union of the Crowns has been borne, as at present, by the Sovereign's

THE WEST COUNTRY m HISTORY.

eldest son. The Webh dignity is conferred from life to life by patent, but it is in
virtue of the Scottish Act of Settlement of 1469 that Albert-Edward, present Prince
of Wales, Ls by hereditary descent also Duke of Rothesay, Earl of Carriclc, Baron
of Renfrew, and Lord of the Isles. An attempt was made in the early part of the
seventeenth century to get the Carriclc honours revived in the person of John
Stewart, second son of Robert, Earl of Orkney, a natural son of James V.; and,
although King Charles did not seem disinclined to favour the suit, especially as
Stewart had got possession of certain lands in the Earldom, yet, when the patent
came up for discussion, Sir Thomas Hope, Lord- Advocate, had courage lo remind
the Council that the title of Earl of Carrick belonged to the King's eldest son, tlte
Prince of Scotland, and was not communicable to any subject He therefore
recommended the Council to advise with His Majesty on the subject before
anything " forder wer proceedit herein." The difficulty was panly got over by the
elevation oi Stewart to a similar title, but alleged to be taken from lands in
Orkney. His Lordship died in 1653, without male issue.

In mentioning the boundaries of the Earldom it has been judged best to treat
it as making up the district known as Carrick in modem times, for purposes civil,
ecclesiastical, and legal But there is some reason for thinking that long after its
separation from Galloway the Earls had jurisdiction far north of the Doon into
Kyle, and probably into Cunningham. The Kyle men especially were ever valiant
and faithful to the Bruce cause, and are often noticed by historians as mustering
with alacrity to defend the patriot king, either when he was concealing himself
among them or raised his standard elsewhere. Speaking topographically, the
Carrick locality of Ayrshire, as understood in modem times, is made up of nine
parishes — Ballanlrae, B.irr, and Colmonell ; Daily, Girvan, and Kirkmichael;
Kirk Oswald, Maybole, and S trail on. Each of these parishes has a history
interesting in itself, apart from any connection with the old Earldom, and, if not
already noticed, will come up for future illustration. Maybole and Kirkoswald are
especially rich in associations with the past — the first mainly ecclesiastical as
relating to its once richly endowed and beautiful Abbey, now in ruins ; the other as

ThE LOCKHARTS OF MJLTON-LOCKHART. 113

having Turnbeny and Culzean within its bounds, and Cassillia mansion on Its
borders, famous in the history of the Kennedies, from the wicked Gilbert, " King of
Carrick," downwards. Kirkoswald, besides its memories of the exciting smuggling
days and the building of smuggling craft, is also pre-eminently a Burns portion of
Ayrshire. Here, under the very shadow of Tumberry ruins, was the farm of
Shanter, thrown iiito another in recent years, but occupied in the poet's day by
that Douglas Graham, the original of the stalwart, thoughtless, and undying " Tam."
In ihe village adjoining, too, Bums himself for some months attended Rodger's
mathematical school, and is likely to have written there one of his very earliest
pieces, " My Father was a Farmer upon the Carrick Border." In population the
district of Carrick has rather fallen ofT during late years, the census for 1831
showing 25,536, and i88r only 23,366.

Certain other minute particulars concerning the Earldom of Carrick —
especially touching the legitimacy in succession of the three sons of Edward Bruce
— will be found in a small volume issued at Edinburgh, 1857 (T. G. Stevenson),
entitled " Some Account of the Ancient Earldom of Carrie," by Andrew Carrick,
M.U. Edited by James Maidment

THE LOCKHARTS OF MILTON-LOCKHART.

^V■ITH a pedigree reaching as far back as Stephen of Clcghom, armour-bearer
to James III. (1460-88), the family of Milton-Lockhart may be looked upon as
among the oldest, if not the very oldest, offshoot of the house of Lee. Another
Stephen, great-grandson of the founder, married Grizel, daughter of Walter
Carmichael of Hyndford, and had a family of three sons — { i ) William, who fell at
KulHon Green, supporting the cause of the Covenant, and whose line became
extinct in 1776 on the death without issue of his grandson, Sir Wm. Lockhart

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

Denhun, Bart; (2) Robert, of Birkhill, who also supported the Covenant, and
having first had a horse shot under him at Bothwell Bridge, afterwards died from
exposure, a fugitive, in the wastes of his own parish of Lesmahagow : and {3)
Walter of Kirkton and Wickctshaw, who, after espousir>g, like his brothers, the
cause of the Covenant, entered the Koyal aitny, in which he rose to the rank of
captain, became paymaster of Forces in Scotland, and died in Edinburgh Castle,
1743, aged eighty-seven. William, a successor in Birkhill, married Violet Inglis,
niece and heiress of James Somerville of Corehouse, and left among other sons and
daughters, Major-General William Lockhart, who died 1S17; and John, who
studied for the Church and became a D.D. of Edinburgh University.

Licensed by the Presbytery of Stirling, 1785, the Rev. John Lockhart was
ordained minister of Cam'nethan parish the following year, in succession to
Alexander Ranken, translated to Ramshom (now St. David's), Glasgow. In
1796, about ten years after his ordination, Dr. Lockhart was presented by the Town
Council of Glasgow to the church of Blackfriars or "College Kirk," vacant by
the death of John Gillies, who had ministered there for the long period of fifty
four years. Dr. Lockhart himself may be also classed among the aged ministers of
his day, surviving, as he did, till December, 184;, when he had reached the eighty-
second year of his age and the fifty-seventh of his ministry. He published " The
Covenant of God, the Hope of Man," and one of many sermons preached on the
death of the Princess Charlotte. Twice married, Dr. Lockhart had by his first
wife, Elizabeth Dinwoodie of Gcrmiston, William, his heir, bom 1787, who acquired
part of the old family estates adjoining the barony of Millon-Lockhart, and repre-
sented the county of Ljinnrk in rnrliamcnt from 1841 till his death in 1856, when
he was HUccccdctl for a brief period by A. D. Baillie-Cochrane of Lamington.
William Ixickhart, nteemcd in liii day as one of the most useful public men in
the connty, wa* T.icutcnant-Coloncl Commnndanl of the Lanarkshire Regiment
of Yeomanry Cavalry, and Dean of FacuUicR of the University of Gta^ow.
Dr. lyickliArl rmurlqd secondly KJixabeth, daughter of the Rev. John Gibson, of
8l Cuthlwrl'l, }<4llnl>urt(li. I)^ Ihli mnnlage there was issue, with other sons

THE LOCKHARTS OF MILTON^LOCKHART. ng

and daughters, John Gibson Lockhart, bom in 1793, to be aftenrarfia referred to;
Lawrence, bom 1796, who succeeded to Milton-Lockhart, and Robert, who
entered upon a mercantile career.

Lawrence Lockhart, second son, as above-mentioned, studied, like his father,
for the Church, and like him also came to be honoured with the degree of D.D,
He was licensed by the Presbytery of Glasgow, t8zi, and ordained to the charge
of Inchinnan, in succession to William Richardson, D.D., in August of same
year. Dr, Lawrence Lockhart filled the charge of Inchinnan from iSja till
i860, when he resigned the living and took up his residence at Milton-Lockhart,
to which he had succeeded on the death of his half-brother, William. Dr. Gillan,
of St. John's, Glasgow, succeeded to the charge of Inchinnan. Like his father
in many other respects, Dr. Lawrence Lockhart was also twice married, his first
wife being Louisa, daughter of David Blair. Dr. Lawrence married secondly,
1849, Marion, eldest daughter of William Maxwell of Dargavel, and on his
death in 1876 left issue David Blair, now of Wicketshaw and Milton-Lockhart,
referred to below. Dr. Lockhart's second son was the well-known Colonel
Lawrence William Maxwell, of the 92nd Highlanders, who served with distinction
in the Crimea, and, like his uncle, John Gibson, occupied an honourable position
in the literature of his day. He acted as correspondent for the "Times " in the
Fran CO- Prussian war, wrote various popular novels, " Fair to See" among the
rest, and was a contributor to "Blackwood," highly appreciated by readers, and
most sincerely respected by the publisher. Colonel Lockhart died at Mentone in
March, 1882, leaving issue by his marriage wiih Katherine, j'ounger daughter
of Sir James Russell of Ashestiel, Selkirkshire, one son, Lawrence Archibald
Somerville.

The eldest son of Dr. John LockJiart, Blackfriar's Church, by his second
marriage with Miss Gibson, was the eminent critic and novelist, John Gibson
Lockhart, biographer of his illustrious father-in-law. Sir \^'alter Scott Bom in
the manse of Cam'oethan, 1795, he was educated at the University of Glasgow,
and passed on a Snell Exhibition to Baliol College, Oxford. Selecting law as a

ii6

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

profession, he passed advocate in 1816, but made an appeanuice in Court only
on rare occasions. Even during the legal studies necessary to qualify for the Bar,
Lockhart showed such a sirong leaning towards htcrature, that after forming the
acquaintance of Scott in 1818, little persuasion was needed to make authorship his
chief reliance, his first work being issued the following year in the form of
"Peter's Letters to his Kinsfolk." Known as the "Scorpion" of the Chaldee
MS. inserted in an early number of " Blackwood," Lockhart may be said to have
been from the commencement of that magazine the leader of that mischievous
band of young Tories who furnished its most biting and brilliant papers. His
connection with the periodical, of which he was erroneously reputed to be editor,
led, in 1821, to a hostile correspondence with John Scott, of the "London
Magazine," the quarrel ending in a duel, in which Scott fell mortally wounded by
Lockhart's "friend," Mr. Christie, who had got himself involved in the unhappy
quarrel when negotiating for an apology. After "Valerius," Lockhart's first
novel, sent out iSai, "Adam Blair," "Reginald Dalton," and "Matthew Wald"
followed in quick succession; till in 1826 he succeeded Gifford as editor of the
■" Quarterly Review," which he was spared to conduct, with rare ability, for the long
period of twenty-eight years. Proud in spirit, and rather cynical and disdainful
in his manner, Lockhart's domestic life was severely tried by affliction, first
through the death of his favourite son, the "Hugh Littlejohn" of Scott's "Tales
of a Grandfather;" then of his wife Sophia, Scott's eldest daughter, in, 1837;
and finally of his only surviving son, a comet in the 16th Lancers, who, after
ruining a fine constitution, died unmarried, January 10, 1853, at the early age
of twenty-seven. Mr. Lockhart's only surviving child, Charlotte, named after her
grandmother, Lady Scott, became the wife of J. R. Hope, Q.C., who assumed the
name of Scott, and had an only child, Mar)--Monica, who became wife of the
Hon. J. Con St able- Maxwell (now Scott) of the Herries family, present proprietor
of Abbotsford through his wife, great-gran d-d aughter of Sir Walter. Of this
marriage there is issue several sons and daughters.

In addition to the writings above referred to, Lockhart translated a collection

A

THE LOCKHARTS OF MILTON-LOCKHART.

■^1

of " Ancient Spanish Ballads," about the accuracy of which critics differ, although
none dispute the flowing rhyme or animated descriptive power. He also wrote
a few pieces of a patriotic and humorous character — the best known being
"The Broadswords of Old Scotland," the inimitable "Captain Paton," and,
probably, "The Great Glasgow Gander" in the "Noctes." One or two other
occasional pieces in the form of " Epitaphs" on friends may also be mentioned.
That on the accomplished but unfortunate Dr. Maginn has been much admired
for its neatness. It is dated simply—

WALTON-ON-THAMES, AUG., 1842.
Here, earlj to bed, lies kind William Maginn,
Who, with genius, wil, IcamiDg, Life's Iropliies to win,
Had neither great Lord nor rich cit of his kin,
Nor discretion to set himself up as to tin;
So, his portion soon spent (like the poor heir of Lynn),
He tum'd author, ere yet there was beard on his chin —
And, whoever was out, or whoever was in.
For your Tories his fine Irish brains he would spin,
Who received prose and rhyme with a promising grin —
"Go ahead, you queer fish, and more power to your fin !"
Bui to save from slarvltion stirred never a pin.
light for long was his henrl, thoogh hia breeches were Ihio,
Else his acting, for certain, was equal to Quin;
But at lost he was beat, and sought help of the bin —
(All the same lo the Doctor from claret lo gin).
Which led swilUy to gaol, with consumption thereia
It was much, wheri the bones rattled loose ia the akin.
He got leave to die here — out of Babylon's din.
Barring drink and the girls, I ne'er heard of a un —
Many worse, better few, than bright broken Maginn.

A companion epitaph on Theodore Hook is

less known, but those familiar with

it8

THE WEST COUNTRY m HISTORY.

it think it not quite so genial, while one or two lines make the piece less suitable
for publication. Broken, aa has been said, in spirit, and shattered in health,
Lockhart laid aside the cares of the "Quarterly" in 1853, and, like Maginn, turned
his back on " Babylon's din," proceeding northward in the summer of next year,
with the view of recovering some measure of physical vigour, and, it may be, of
recalling the early delightful days spent with his wife, her father, and her father's
friends at Chiefswood. Hailing for a short rest with his relative at Milton-
Lockhart, the invalid passed on to Abbotsford, but, so far from recruiting amid
scenes full of agreeable associations, he gradually became weaker, and died
there, asth November, 1854. The remains of J. G. Lockhart were laid within
the ruins of Drybur^h Abbey, beside those of his father-in-law. Sir Walter, and
with much appropriateness, for it is not too much to say that the Memoir of the
one from the pen of the other will live as long as "Waverley" novels are read.
The memoir appeared in 1837-38.

The present proprietor of Milton-Lockhart is David Blair Lockhart, also of
Wicketshaw, a Lieutenant-Colonel in the 107th Foot, eldest son of Rev. Lawrence
Lockhart, D.D. He represents two other old families — the Cleghorn branch in
the male line, and in the female line the Somcrvilles of Cam'nethan. Allan Eiiot
Lockhart of Cleghorn, Lanarkshire, and Borthwickbrae, Selkirkshire, son of
William Eliot, was descended from another Allan Lockhart, said to have
witnessed charters in the reign of James II. {1437-60). The later Allan studied
for the bar, passed advocate 1824, and sat as member of Parliament for Selkirk
county from 1846 till 1861, when he accepted the ChiUem Hundreds, and was
succeeded in the representation by Lord Henry John Scott, after a contest with
the Hon. W. Napier.

c

ARDGOWAN: THE STEWARTS AND SHAW-STEWARTS, 119

ARDGOWAN: THE STEWARTS AND
SHA W-STEWAR TS.

If what was once a chief fortalice of those early Stewarts descended from Robert
III. is now the ruined, grim, and roofless tower at Blackhall, close on Paisley, the
splendour of the new residence at Ardgowan gives not only manifeat tokens of more
peaceable times, but suggests much otherwise concerning the Royal race from
which the lairds, knights, and baronets of the old castle sprung. It should also be
kept in mind that while Ardgowan has long been the principal mansion of the
family, the property, with its own old fortress, now forsaken like Blackhall, was
amongst the earliest of their possessions in Renfrewshire. Certain antiquaries
make mention of it as the first property granted by King Robert to his son John
Stewart ; but more exact inquiry would fix the charters as passing the Great Seal in
the following order: — Auchingown, 1390; Blackball, 1395; Ardgowan, 1403, or
three years before the King died in Rothesay Castle, partly, it is thought, through
grief at the capture on the high seas by the English of his only surviving legitimate
son, Prince James, while being conveyed to France for safety. The Greenock and
other acquisitions of the Blackhall Stewarts will be noticed below in connection
with the Shaw family, Situated on a fine natural terrace on the left or south bank,
about two miles below the Cloch Lighthouse, and therefore beyond the point
where Clyde bends from its westward course southward to the Firth, Ardgowan
commands magnificent views along both shores of the estuary, and as far down
as the rugged peaks of Arran. The present mansion, designed by Cairncross, was
built early la last century by the then Sir John Shaw-Stewart, fourth baronet,
and fifteenth in direct male descent from John, son of Robert III., and founder of
the house. Blackhall then {1710) became the farm-house of that property. Sir
John also enclosed the beautiful grounds amid which the mansion-house stands,
and planned the gardens, walks, and plantations. Unlike Blackhall Tower, now

Tim WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

tittle more than an uiuecmty encumbrance within an ordinary fann-yard, the old
and only remnant of the first family reaideace at Ardgowan has been so far caied
for u to impart interest to the landscape. Mouldering and i*7-ctad, the ruin yet
cairiei the mind back even beyond the days of that James Stewart who, in 1576,
obtained from James VI. a charter creating the three properties mentioned above
into a barony. John Stewart had by Margaret, daughter of Stewart of Castlemilk,
one >0D, Archibald, of Blackhall, who sat in Parliament as Commissioner for the
ihire of Renfrew. He was also chosen as a Privy Councillor by Charles L, and
advanced to the dignity of knighthood. By his first wife, a daughter of Bryce Blair
of Blair, Sir Archibald had issue three sons and two daughters — (i) John, who
predeceased his father, but left by his wife Mary, daughter of the house of Keir,
among other sons, Archibald, who succeeded to the family honours in 1658; (2)
Archibald, who obtained the lands of Scotston through his wife Margaret, daughter
and heiress of John Hutcheson ; (3) Walter, who married Elizabeth, daughter and
heiress of Robert Stewart, and succeeded thereby to the lands of Pardovan, leaving
iHUe one son, Walter, jirominent in the Church Courts of his day as a debater, and
frequently in correspondence with Woodrow, Of the two daughters of Sir
Archibald Stewart, Annabel married Sir George Maxwell of Pollock, while Margaret
married Sir David IJoswell of Auchinlcck. Sir Archibald, first knight, was
succeeded, as menlioncd above, by his grandson, also Archibald, who was created a
baronet of No^a Scotia. Married to Anne, eldest daughter of Sir John Crawford
of Kilbirnic, the second Sir Archibald had, with other issue, a son, John, father of
Archibald, second baronet, and of Michael, third baronet, who succeeded to llie
title and estates on the death of his elder brother, without issue, in 1724. It is
now necessary to turn lo the Ardgowan connection with the family of Shaw, of
Greenock, through tlic marriage of the Sir Michael just mentioned as third
baronet, with Ilclenor, eldest daughter of Sir John Housloun, third Baronet of
lloustoun, and Margaret Shaw, his wife, daughter of Sir John Shaw, second
baronet of Greenock, and Eleanor, eldest daughter and co-heir of Sir Tliomas
Nicolson, Bart., of Camock,

1

ARI>GOiVAN.- THE STEWARTS AND SffAlV-STE WARTS. lai

Tracing their descent, in common with the Wemyss family, to Duncan,
fifth Earl of Fife, tne Shaws of Sauchie, Stirlingshire, are early found making
alliances with the best families in Scotland. One member, during the fourteenth
century, married a daughter and co-heiress of Malcolm Galbraith, described as " of
Greenock," but Lennox in descent, and thereby acquired a moiety of the barony
known as Wester Greenock, the other co-heiress carrying Easter Greenock into the
family of Crawford of Kilbimie, from whose descendant it was purchased in 1669
by Sir John Shaw, Wester Greenock passed first lo a younger son of Shaw of
Sauchie, but, on failure of that line, Greenock eventually succeeded to Sauchie,
and became chief of the name. John Shaw of Greenock and Sauchie {son of
James Shaw of Wester Greenock, by Margaret Montgomery, and grandson of John
and Elizabeth Cunningham), was knighted on the field of Worcester, 1651, and
created a baronet, 1687. By his wife, Jean Mure, daughter of the house of
Rowallan, Sir John left one son. Sir John, second baronet, and five daughters,
one of them marrying into the family of Smollett of Bonhill. By Eleanor, eldest
daughter and co-heir of Sir Thomas Nicolson of Carnock, as mentioned above, the
second baronet of Greenock had issue besides John, his successor, other four sons,
all killed in the wars of the Low Countries, and one daughter, Margaret, who in
1714 married Sir John Houstoun, third Baronet of Houstoun. Lady Margaret
Housloun died in 1750, leaving issue one son, Sir John, the fourth and last baronet
of Houstoun, who married Eleanora, eldest daughter of Charles, eighth Lord
Cathcart, without issue; and two daughters, (i) Helena, who married, as already
mentioned. Sir Michael Stewart, third baronet of Blackball; and {2) Anne, who
married Colonel William Cunninghame of Enterkine. Joanna, sisicr of Margaret,
died unmarried. Sir John Shaw, second baronet of Greenock, was succeeded by
his son, also Sir John, who in 1700 married Marion (or Margaret), eldest daughter
of Lord-President Dalrymple, by whom he had one daughter, Marion, who in
1718 became wife of Charles, eight Lord Cathcart, ancestor of the present Alan-
Frederick, Earl Cathcart, heir-general of the house of Shaw of Sauchie. Sir John
died at Sauchie Lodge, Clackmannan, April 5, 1752, without male issue. The

Hi

THE WEST COUNTR V IN fflSTOH K

unentailed estate or Sauchie passed to his daughter, Lady Cathcart, while the
Greenock, or entailed property, fell to the heir of his sister, Lady Houstoun, John
Stewart, eldest son of Sir Michael, third baronet of BlaclchalL

John Stewart thus came to represent the families of NicoUoo of Camoclc, and
Houstoun of Houstoun, as well as that of Shaw of Greenock. Sir John Shaw-
Stewatt, fourth baronet of Greenock and Blackball, represented Renfrewshire in
Parliament from 1785, when William M'Dowall of Garthtand resigned, till his
death in 1796, when he was succeeded by Boyd Alexander of Southbar, who held
the seat for six years. Dying in 1812, and leaving no issue by his wife, Frances
Colquhoun, widow of Sir James Maxwell of Pollock, Sir John was succeeded by
his nephew, Michael Shaw-Stewart, only son of Houstoun, younger brother of
Sir John, by Margaret, daughter of Boyd of Portertield.

Sir Michael Shaw-Stewarl, fifth baronet, Lord- Lieutenant of Ren&ewshire, and
to whom Ardgowan owes many of its charms, married in 1787 his cousin,
Catherine, youngest daughter of Sir William Maxwell of Springkell, by whom he
had six sons and three daughters, the eldest being Michael-Shaw, sixth baronet
referred to below. Housloun-Stewart, ICC.B., third son, was bom at Springkell,
1791, and educated chiefly at Chiswick, near London. Entering the navy when
little more than fourteen years of age, he served uniler the daring Thomas, Lord
Cochrane, afterwards tenth Earl of Dundonald. He was at the siege of Flushing
(iSoij), and commanded the "Benbow" at the bombardment of SL Jean d' Acre, In
November, 1846, Captain Housloun-Stewart was appointed Comptroller-General
of the Coastguard, an office which he held till February, 1850, when he became a
Lord of the Admiralty. In 1851 he attained the rank of Rear-Admiral, and in
February, 1853, was elected M.P. for Greenwich, but only retained his place in
Parliament till July of that year, and in the following December, on the fall of the
first Derby Ministry, Admiral Houstoun Stewart ceased to be a Lord of the
Admiralty. In 1855 he was created a Knight-Commander of the Bath, for his
services as second in command of the naval forces ofT Sebastopol in that year. In
1858 he was appointed a Vice-Admiral. Dying December 10, 1875, Admiral

I

ARDGOWAN: THE STEWARTS AND SHAW-STEWARTS. 123

Sir HousloLin-Stewart left issue by his wife Martha, daughter of Sir William Miller,
Lord Glenlee, among other sons and daughters, the present Sir William Houstoun-
Stewart, K.C.B. Entering the navy, like his father, when about fourteen years of
age, he served with distinction in operations on the north coast of Spain, 1836-37;
in Syrian war, and bombardment of St. Jean d'Acre, 1840; at bombardment of
Sebastopol, i354, and operations in (he Baltic, and bombardment of Sweaborg,
1855; was successively Superintendent of Chatham, Devonport, and Portsmouth
dockyards, and Comptroller of the Navy. Admiral Stewart was among the few
permitted to accompany the Czar's yaciit "Lividia" on her first cruise from the Clyde
to the Black Sea, Admiral William Houstoun Stewart has been twice married,
with issue, besides other sons and daughters, Lieutenant Houstoun, R.N.,
bom 1854.

The fifth son of Sir Michael Shaw-Stewart, fifth baronet, Patrick Maxwell,
bom 179s, sat as M.P. for Lancaster from 1S31 till 1837, and for the county of
Renfrew from 1841, when he carried the election against Colonel William Mure
by a narrow majority, till his decease in October, 1846, when Colonel Mure was
elected without opposition.

Sir Michael, sixth baronet of Greenock and BlackhaU, eldest son of Sir
Michael, fifth Baronet, succeeded Lord Archibald Hamilton in the represen-
tation of Lanarkshire, 1B27, and held the seat for three years, when he was
elected for his native county of Renfrew, in succession to Sir John MaxweU,
younger of Pollok, In the first Reformed Parliament, Sir Michael, who had
been a consistent supporter of "the Bill," was re-elected for Renfrewshire by 700
votes against 41a tendered in favour of R. C. Eonline of Ardoch, and held the
seat till his decease in 1836, when it fell to George Houstoun (Conser\'ativc), who
held it over a second contest till 1841, when Patrick Maxwell Stewart, men-
tioned above (described as a Liberal) was returned by 959 votes against 945
recorded in favour of Colonel William Mure, Liberal-Conservative. Sir Michael,
sixth Baronet, manied, i8rg, Elizabeth Mary, only child of Robert Farquhar of
Newark, and had issue, with other sons and daughters, Robert, the present

t»4

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

Sir Michael Shaw-Stewart, bora 1826, and, rare in the history of Scottish
families, the sevenleerth in direct male descent from the John Stewart first
mentioned as son of Robert III., whose reign extended over 1390-1406.

Presently Lord-Lieutenant of Renfrewshire, Sir Michael succeeded to the

representation of the county in Parliament, 1855, when Colonel Williani Mure
accepted the Chiltem Hundreds, and held the seat as a Liberal-Conservative
without a contest til! 1865, when it was won by Mr. A. A. Spiers of Elderslie
(Liberal), with 938 votes against 836 tendered in favour of Sir Michael. Bora
in 1836, the present Baronet married in December, 1852, Lady Octavia Grosvenor,
sixth daughter of Richard, second Marquis of Westminister, K.G., and has had
issue five sons and four daughters, the eldest and heir-apparent being Michael
Hugh Slewart-Nicolson of Carnock, born nth July, 1854, a Captain in the
Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders, married, i4lh November, 1883, Lady Alice
Thynne, daughter of John Alexander, fourth Marquis of lintii.

Among the more recent additions to the Ardgowan property there falls to be
mentioned Finnock, Leven, Duchal, Flattertoun, and Dunrod, the latter famous
in Renfrewshire history as a resort of witches who kept company with that "auld
Dunrod" who sold the barony in 1619 to Archibald Stewart of Blackball. Making
up, as it does, over Iwo-thirds of the parish of Inverkip, Sir Michael's Renfrew-
shire property is entered in the Parliamentary Return of Owners and Heritages
(1874), as consisting of 4,773 acres, with n rental of £^\ip\i, exclusive of ^458
for quanies and ^^700 for minerals.

Note. — It cannot, in the nature of things, happen frequently for the local or
family annalist to record events of permanent historic interest as mere news.
Yet it would be ungracious, less far than dutiful, not to make special mention of
the fact that young Lieutenant Houstoun-Stewart, R.N. (bom 1854), mentioned
above as son of Admiral Sir William, K.C.E, cousin of the present Sir Michael
of Ardgowan, fell in the Soudan so recently as the ' forenoon of Thursday

POLIOK AND THE MAXWELLS.

1=5

(Maich 13, 1884), while commanding the guns of the Naval Brigade, opened with
such stem puq)ose against the desert troops of Ostnan Digma, fighting in name
of the Mahdi, otherwise known as the False Prophet. Houstoun-Stewart was senior
lieutenant at the time of H.M.S. " Dryad," Son of Sir William, presently Com-
mander-in-Chief at Devonport, Houstoun-Stewartj who has fallen so nobly, entered
the Navy as cadet 1866, became midshipman two years a^etwards, and Lieutenant
in September, 1876.

POLLOK AND THE MAXWELLS.

Of the five baronetcies held by families named Maxwell — Pollok, Caldcrwood,
Cardoness, Monreith, and Springkell— the first named has been long esteemed
the most ancient, starting as it does with that Aymer dc Maxwell (son of Sir
John, Sheriff of Tevioldale), who in the reign of Alexander II, appears as witness
to a charter proceeding from Walter the Great Stewart, gifting the churches of
Dundonald and Sanquhar to the Monks of Paisley Abbey, Aymer, Chamberlain
of Scotland (or his son John, for genealogians are not agreed on the point),
would appear from such slender evidence as exists to have married Mary, the
heiress of Roland of Mearns, and thereby brought into the family that portion of
the Renfrett^siiire property, as well as Nether Pollok, or Police, which now makes
up a large portion of the parish of Eastwood. Herbert, the eldest son of Aymer,
is claimed as ancestor of the Maxwells of Caerlaverock, afterwards Lords Maxwell
and Earls of Nlthsdale, now represented in pursuance of a decision in the House
of Lords (1858) by Marmaduke Constable-Maxwell, baron Herries of Terregles,
From John, second son of Aymer, the family of Nether Pollok would appear to
be more immediately descended. His name appears as witness to two donations
of land in the Meams which Herbert gave to the monks of Paisley in the end
of the thirteenth century. In one deed the Abbey Cartulary makes mention of

I

ia6 THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

him as "Johannes de Maxwell, dominus de Polloc inferiori," while in the other
John Maxwell is simply described as the brother of Herbert. (Cart., pp. 104-380.)
The name has generally been accepted as comiug from that Macus who, about
the year 1116, witnessed the inquisition made by David, Prince of Cumberland,
afterwards King David I., into the possessions of the Church of Glasgow. Thus
there would be first "Macus" only; then "Macus' vil," or town of Macus; until
mere superfluity appears in the now familiar " Maxwell town" of the Herries barony.
Other derivations, however, have not been wanting, and are yet maintained by
scholars of high reputation, as the Gaelic "PoUag," a little pool, and "weil," or
circling eddy in a stream, as also "well" itself. In any case, such names as
TJndwyn, father of Macus, and of Liolf, his son, may be accepted as indicating a
Saxon origin for the family.

Pollok proper, or Upper Pollok, as it was frequently called, was held
possession of by a family of that name for over six hundred years, or from 1163
till 1794, when, on the death of Sir Hew Crawford of Jordanhill, the baronetcy
was taken up by his eldest son, Robert, in whose person the families of Pollok,
Kilbimie, and Jordanhill became united. Dying without issue in August, 1845,
Sir Robert was succeeded by his nephew, Hew, in the properties of Pollok and
Kilbimie, and also in the baronetcy of Kilbimie, which last dates from 1638. By
his wife, Elizabeth Oswald, daughter of Matthew Dunlop, Sir Hew Crawford
had, besides one daughter, Jane, a son. Hew Crawford -Pollok, bom 1843, the fifth
and present baronet of Kilbimie, who succeeded to the family honours on the death
of hia father, 5th March, 1867. Tracing a common ancestor in the very earliest
of the Maxwells of Nether Pollok, the house of Calderwood springs more
immediately from Sir John Maxwell, who, under a deed, dated at Dumbarton,
iSth December, 1400, setlled the family lands on his eldest son John, by Isobel,
daughter of Sir James Lindsay, and the barony of Calderwood, with other lands,
on his younger son Robert, who in 1402 married Elizabeth, daughter and co-heir
of Sir Robert Deanistoun of Dennisloun, by whom he had two sons — one, John,
hia heir; and George, ancestor of the Maxwells of Newark. The present Sir

POLLOK AND THE MAXWELLS.

127

William Maxwell of Calderwood, bom nth August, i8i8, is the tenth in descent
of the Nova Scotia baronets, an honour first conferred on Sir James of Calderwood,

March, 1627 — Sir James being at (he time heir presumptive of Sir John of Pollok,
but afterwards passed over in favour of George Maxwell of Auldhouse. The
present Sir William of Calderwood succeeded on the death of his father, Sir Hugh
Bates, ninth baronet, February, 1870.

Third in descent from that Aymer de Maxwell of Caerlavcrock, mentioned
above, was Sir John, son of Sir Robert of Pollok, who, by his marriage with Isobel
Lindsay of Crawford, daughter of Walter the High Steward, had, with other sons
and daughters (1) John, his successor, who greatly distinguished himself at
Otterbitm (1388} by capturing Sir Ralph Percy, brother of the noted Hotspur;
and (2) Robert, ancestor of the Maxwells of Calderwood. Another John Maxwell is
found afterwards succeeding to Pollok, and leaving by his wife, Ehzabeth, a
daughter of Sir Patrick Houstoun of Houstoun, an only child, Elizabeth, sole
heiress of Pollok, who brought the estate to her husband, Sir John, son of
George Maxwell of Cowglen. This Sir John was knighted by Queen Mary,
summoned to repair in her support to the muster-ground at Hamilton after the
escape from Lochleven, with all his servants " bodin in feir of war," and fought in
her army at Langside, on tlie borders of his own estate, May, 1568.

The Sir John Maxwell, last mentioned, fell at Dryfe Sands while aiding his
chief, Lord Nithsdale, Warden of the West Marches, in an attack on the
Johnstons, Scotts, Elliots, and other Border clans, 7th December, 1593- Sir
John had some eight years previously finished building the now ruined castle of
Haggs, as appears from an inscription all but illegible on a triangular stone over
the main doorway : —

" I53S'

Nl DOMIN,

jEdes Sthvxe,

RiT Frvstra Strvis,

Sir John Maxwell of Pollok, Knight,

And D. Margaret Conyngham,

His Wife, bjggit this House."

tsS

TUB WEST COUNTUY IN HISTORY.

The Dame Margaret Cunningham here mentioned was Sir John's first wife, a
daughter of the Laird of Capringlon, and mothn of one daughter, Agnes, who
mairied John Boyle, of Kelbume, ancestor of the Earls of Glasgow, and one son,
Sir John of Pollok, at whose death, in 1647, without male issue, the estate,
heriuble and moveable, went to his cousin George of Auldhouse, although not
without several attempts on the part of the Calderwood branch to disturb the
succession. The Springkell Maxwells, who acquired the barony of KJrkconnel
and Springkell, Annandale, 1(109, ""d "viz^g created Baronets of Nova Scotia,
1683, claim to represent the male line of the Pollok family through an earlier
George of Auldhouse. The second wife of Sir John, founder of Haggs Castle,
so long a jointure-house in the family, was Marjory, daughter of Sir WQliam
Edmonstone of Duntreath, descended from Robert III. through the Princess
Mary. This Royal connection was again renewed in the family by the above
George of Auldhouse marrying {1646) Annabella, daughter of Sir Archibald
Stewart of Bbckhall and Ardgowan.

The name of Sir George Maxwell is associated with a case famous in the
superstitious annals of Renfrewshire in connection with the reputed crime of witch-
crafi. Nearly twenty years before ihc local Presbytery had its attention directed
with sach fatal results to the deplorable case of Christian Shaw, of Bargamui.
Sir George was taken suddenly ill while in Glasgow on the night of October 14,
1677, and afterwards confined to his mansion at Pollok, suffering severe bodily
pain. A vagrant girl named Janet Douglas, who pretended to be dumb, was
considered a clever witch-finder, and owing some of his tenants a grudge, accused
several of them of bewitching Sir George. To confirm her assertions, she
contrived, in one or two instances, to secrete small wax figures of the suffering
knighi. stuck with pins, in the dwellings of the accused persons. A special com-
mission was issued for the trial of the case on the spot, and after a long
investigation, at which were present, besides some of the Lords of Justiciary,
most of the leading men of Renftewshire, the following unfortunate creatures,
namely, Janet Mathie, widow of John Stewart, under_ miller in Shaw Mill; John

J

POLLOK AND THE MAXWELLS.

139

Stewart, her son; and three old women, the parties accused, were condemned to
be strangled and burned; and Annabil Stewart, a girl fourteen years old, the
daughter of Mathie, ordered to be imprisoned. A local ballad on the tragedy
makes mention of the story as

"Told by legends old.
And by wjthertd dune and sire.
When they sit secure Trom the winter's cold,
All around Ihe evening firt

" How ihc faggots bUicd on the Gallaw-green,
Where ihey hung the witches high,
And their mouldering forms were grimly seen,
7111 darkened the lowering sky."

Besides three daughters who married into the families of Dreghom, Upper
PoUok, and Calderwood, Sir George left at his death in 1677 one son, Sir John
Maxwell of Pollok, created a Baronet of Nova Scotia by Charles II., April li,
1683, with extension of the title, in virtue of another patent, March 37, 1707, to
Ills heirs-male whatsoever. In July, 1683, Sir John Maxwell was imprisoned for
refusing to take the test, and December a, 1684, he was fined ^^8000 by the
Privy Council for allowing recusants to live on his lands, and refusing the Bond
and Test The Council, however, declared that if paid before the end of the
month the fine would be reduced to _;^iooo. In 1689 Sir John was sworn a
Privy Councillor to King \Villiam. The same year he represented the county of
Renfrew in the Convention of Estates. lie was afterwards Commissioner for the
same county in the Scots Parliament. In i6g6 he was appointed one of the
Lords of the Treasury and Exchequer. On the 6th February, 1699, he was
admitted an Ordinary Lord of Session, and on the 14th of the same month
nominated Lord Justice-Clerk. In the latter office he was superseded in 1703,
He died July 4, 1732, in his ninetieth year, without issue.

■s«

THE WEST CO VNTR Y IN IIISTOR Y.

I

His cousin, Sir John Maxwell, previously styled of Blawerthill, succeeded as
second Baronet of Pollok, He was the son of Zecharias Maxwell of Blawerthill,
younger brother of Sir George Maxwell of Auldhouse and Pollok. He married,
first, Lady Ann Carmichael, daughter of John, Earl of Hyndford, and had a son,
John, and two daughters; secondly, Barbara, daughter of Walter Stewart of
Blairhall; issue, three sons — (i) George, of Blawerthill, who died unmarried; (a)
Walter; (3) James; and two daughters; thirdly, Margaret, of the family of
Caldwell of Caldwell, without issue. He died in 1753.

His eldest son. Sir John Maxwell, became third Baronet On his death, his
half brother. Sir Walter, succeeded as fourth Baronet, and died in 1761.

Sir Walter's only son, Sir John, became fifth Baronet, but died nine weeks
after his father.

The title and estates reverted to his father's youngest brother, Sir James,
sixth Baronet. This gentleman married Frances, second daughter of Robert
Colquhoun of St. Christopher's, of the family of Kenmure; issue, two eons —
(i) John, his successor; (z) Robert, a Captain in the army, died without issue; and
two daughters — (i) Frances, wife of John Cunningham of Craigends; (?) Barbara,
married Rev. Greville Ewing, Sir James died in 1785.

Sir John, seventh Baronet, was the first M.P. for Paisley under the Reform
Act of 183a, as many as 777 votes being tendered for him in opposition to 180
given in favour of Mr. M'Kerrell of Hillhouse. He held the seat, however, for
only two years, when he accepted the Chiltem Hundreds, and was succeeded by
Professor Sir D, K. Sandford, after a contest with John Crawford, another Liberal,
and Lieutenant J. E. Gordon, Conservative. He married (1788) Hannah-Anne,
daughter of Mr. Richard Gardiner of Aldborougb, Suffolk, by whom {who died
aiat July, 1841) he had issue— John, eighth Baronet; Harriot-Anne, died un-
married 1841 ; Elizabeth, marrried ist June, 1815, Mr. Archibald Stirling of
Keir, and died gth September, 1S22, leaving (with two daughters, who both died
unmarried) a son, Mr. William Stirling of Keir, M.P., the late Sir William
Stirling-Maxwell, ninth Baronet of Pollok.

POLLOK AND THE MAXWELLS,

131

Sir John died 30th July, 1844, and was succeeded by his only son, Sir John,
who was bom on the 12th May, 1791, and married 14th October, 1839, Lady
Matilda- Harriet Bruce, daughter of Thomas, Earl of Elgin and Kincardine, which
lady died 31st August, 1857, Sir John sat in Parliament successively for the
counties of Lanark and Renfrew. He died without issue, 6th June, 1865, when
the Baronetcy devolved, in pursuance of the limitation of the patent of lyoj,
upon his nephew, Sir William Stirling- Maxwell, K.T., who assumed the surname
of Maxwell, after his patronymic, Stirling.

William Stirling, only son of Archibald of Keir, was born at Kenmure, near
Glasgow, 1818, educated at Trinity College, Cambridge, where he took his degree
in 1839. Succeeding to the estate of Keir and Cadder on the death of his father,
1847, he took an early opportunity of disentailing these properties, and, besides
greally enlarging Keir House, built the beautiful memorial church of Lecropt,
near his family inheritance. Stirling Maxwell married at Paris, 26th April, r865,
Anne-Maria, third daughter of David, eighth Earl of Leven, and by her (who
died 8th December, 1874) had issue — (i) John Maxwell, present Baronet; (a)
Archibald, bom 1867. He married secondly, ist March, 1877, the Hon. Caroline
Norton, daughter of the late Thomas Sheridan, and widow of Hon. Georga
Chappie Norton, brother of Fletcher, third Lord Grantley, She died isth Juna
following. Sir William was highly esteemed as one of the most accomplished
scholars of his day, especially in the department of Spanish art and literature.
With strong natural artistic tastes, refined by study and travel, Sir William made
many important contributions to critical and historical literature, and published
also a volume of "Songs of the Holy Land," 1846. Among his best known
works are: — "Annals of the Artists of Spain," 1848; "Cloister Life of Emperor
Charles V.," 1852; "Velazquez and his Works," 1855; two sumptuous privately
printed books, relating to the victories and processions of Charles V. ; "Don John
of Austria;" "Essays concerning Proverbs, &c, and the Arts of Design." It was
remarked concerning Sir William's "Processions" of Charles V. that, while the
greatest and most illustrious historians had vied with each other in preserving the

i5»

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

likeness of the Emperor's person, aaother in preserving the record oX his famous
achievements, it was no small addition to even his fame that in this our age,
the taste, the learning, and the muniticence of a Scottish gentleman, aided by
the arts of the nineteenth century, should have raised such a literary monument
to his greatness. Sir William was a trustee of the British Museum, 1872, and
of the National Portrait Gallery; Lord Rector of Edinburgh University, 1871;
Chancellor of Glasgow University, 1875; a Member of the Scottish Education
Board; a D.C.L. and LL.D. As a Commoner, he also received the exceptional
honour of being created a Knight of the Thistle. He sat in the House of
Commons as a Conservative for Perthshire (1852-68), and from 1874 till his
lamented death, which took place somewhat suddenly at Venice, i6th January,
1878, when the succession to Pollok opened up to his eldest son. Sir John
Maxwell Stirling- Maxwell, the tenth and present Baronet, born 6th June, 1866.

The house of Nether Pollok— a large and handsome structure of four
storeys — is situated on the right bark of the White Cart amidst highly- em belli shed
pleasure grounds and beautiful plantations. The building was completed in
1753 by the then Sir John Maxwell, second Baronet, a few weeks before his
death. The castle which had been previously occupied by the family was
demolished about the same time. It stood on the site of the offices attached to
the present mansion. Upon an eminence about 300 yards to the eastward
of the house there stood a still older castle, the remains of the drawbridge and
fosse belonging to which were in existence in Crawfurd's time.

In the Parliamentary Return of Owners and Heritages (Scotland, 1874),
Pollok estate is entered as consisting of 4,773 acres, with a rental of ^13,011,
exclusive of ^458 for quarries, and ^700 for minerals. Sir William's other
properties were entered — Stirhngshire (Keir), 1,487 acres; rental, ;^a,37o, Lanark-
shire (Cadder, &c), 5,691 acres; rental, ^£8,741 ; minerals, ;^3,23i. Perthshire,
8,863 acres; rental, ;£s,73i.

1

S/Jt THOMAS MVNJIO, JC.CJ.

SIR THOMAS MUNRO, K.C.B.

Uncom MEM ORATED as yet by any statue in the city of his birtb, of his upbringing,
and of his education, the fame of Sir Thomas Munro has been otherwise well
cared for by a still fresh affectionate regard which connects him with all that was
brave and of good report as a soldier, no less than with what was wise and
humane as an Indian Governor. An equestrian memorial, car\'ed out by the
skilful hand of Chantrey for the inhabitants of Madras— a memorial which even
native chiefs have been seen to salute with affection — recalls one phase of
Governor Munro's career; a choultry and tank at Gooty for the accommodation
of travellers, another; while a third is conspicuous as a tomb at Putteecondahi
where the hero of the Maharatta war fell a victim to his zea! in that service oi
the Crown which had been the pride of his life, for the long period of eight-and
forty years. His moderation in war was not more remarkable than his homely,
disinterested career during such brief periods of peace as service in the Eas(
during his time permitted any of the Company's officials to enjoy. Forty yeats
a soldier, for the most part high in command, and eight years a Governor in the
wealthy Presidency of Madras, Sir Thomas Munro, with the uncontrolled
management of provinces larger than many European kingdoms, died as he had
lived, faithful to his public trust, and possessed of only a modest competence.
But still more should be remembered to his credit. Pounded as English rule
in India was by the matchless bravery of Clive, and built up by the policy of
Hastings, the India of Munro's day was a country still looked upon by most
Europeans as a place to get rich in as soon as possible; so that every greedy
factor, however petty his station, thought it no shame to extort from the poorest
peasantry in the world whatever could add to his dreams of boundless wealth.
Eurke was scarcely exaggerating when he declared in the Commons that Indian
civil servants were almost universally sent out to begin their progress and career

■S4

THE WEST COUNIRy IN HISTORY,

d

in active occupation and in tiie exercise of high authority at that period of life
which, in aU other places, was employed in the course of a rigid education. "To
put the matter in a few words," said the orator, "these civil servants are transferred
from slippery youth to perilous independence, from perilous independence to
inordinate expectations, from inordinate expectations to boundless power. School-
boys without tutors, minors without guardians, the world is let loose on them
with ill its temptations, and they are let loose upon the world with all the powers
that despotism involves," Munro has been fitly classed with Elphinstone and
Metcalfe as having done their best to supersede such gangs of public robbers
by a body of functionaries not more distinguished for ability and diligence than
by integrity and public spirit.

The absence of any memorial here to a citizen so distinguished as Major-
General Munro is apt to excite increased surprise when it is remembered that he
was a son of Glasgow, not alone by the mere accident of birth or education, but
it was a locality seldom absent from either his waking thoughts or dreams. Even
when exercising supreme power over the dusky myriads of his Presidency, and
amid scenes altogether different, he never forgot or ceased to be influenced by
recollections of his eariy home at North Woodside, on the banks of the then silvery
Kelvin. " The Father of his People," never appeared in happier mood than when
writing or speaking regarding the land of his fathers and the old house at home,
removed in 1869, when the ground was being laid out for the thriving new
suburb of Kelvinside. To Munro the comfort of his parents, their country house
and their garden, remained with him as fresh as if he had never left the paternal
roof. But his sister (afterwards Mrs. Henry Erskine) would appear on the whole
to have been his favourite correspondent. His tone has been noticed as changing
whenever he addressed her, and the recollections and expectations of his heart to
well out in their greatest fulness. One written from the camp before Cuddalore,
on the eve when General Stuart (of the house of Torrance and Castlemilk) was
making his successful attack on the fort kept by the French, supported with native
troops under Tippoo Saib, may still be read with interest and profit: — "I have

J

S/J! THOMAS MUNRO, K.C.B.

135

never yet been able to divest myself of my partiality for home ; nor can I now
reflect without regret on the careless, indolent life I led in my father's house,
when time fled away undisturbed by these anxious thoughts which possess every
one who seeks earnestly for advancement in the world. I often see my father
buaied with his tulip beds, and my mother with her myrtle pots ; I see you
drawing, and James lost in meditation : and all these seem as much present to me
as they did when I was amongst you. Sometimes, when I walk on the sea-shore,
I look across the waves and please myself with fancying tliat I see a distant
continent amongst the clouds, where I imagine you all to be," Replying on
another occasion to his sister, who had proposed a visit to Ammondell during his
first return home in 1808, after an absence in the East of nearly thirty years,
Colonel Munro wrote playfully; — "I have been twice at North Woodside, and
though it rained without ceasing on both days, it did not prevent me from
rambling up and down the river from Clayslap to the aiiueduct bridge. I stood
above an hour at Jackson's Dam, looking at the water rushing over. The rain
and withered leaves were descending thick about me, while I recalled the days
that are past. The wind whistling through the trees, and the water tumbling over
the dam, had still the same sound as before; but the darkness of the day, and the
little smart box perched upon the opposite bank, destroyed much of the illusion,
and made me feel that former times were gone, I don't know how it is, but when
1 look back to early years I always associate sunshine with them ; when I think of
North Woodside, I always think of a fine day, with the sunbeams streaming down
upon Kelvin and its woody banks. I do not enter completely into early scenes
of life in gloomy, drizzling weather. I mean to devote the first sunny day to
another visit to Kelvin, which, whatever you may say, is worth ten such paltry
streams as your Ammon," Sentiments tike these show that Munro was something
more than a Scotchman; he was a Glasgow Scotchman, fully as much as either
Lord Clyde, Sir John Moore, or Thomas Campbell, or, indeed, any other whose
image has been judged worthy of being set up in George Square.

Munro came of a good old Glasgow family, his grandfather being Daniel

I3«

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

and his father Alexander, both merchants of note in the City when the lucrative
tobacco trade was reaching its greatest height It is, indeed, more than probable
that but for commercial Huctualions arising out of the unnatural warfare carried on
by British troops and German mercenaries in America, the future LJeutenant-
Ueneral and Governor of Madras might himself have paced along the Tontine
pavement as a scarlet -cloaked and periwigged tobacco lord or Virginia Don. The
desire of his father and mother was that Thomas, their third son, should be
trained for ineTcantilc pursuits; nor diil their wish appear likely to be interfered
with till the Act of Confiscation, passed by the American Congress in 1776,
involved the ruin of his tobacco house, and reduced Alexander Munro to a slate
of distress which in after life it remained for his sons, Thomas, and an elder
brother, John, a writer in Madras, to completely alleviate.

Bora in May, 1761, Thomas Munro was at the period of his father's
calamities fifteen years of age, and had been fully two years attending Glasgow
University. His progress there cannot be set down as very marked. Like
Outram, the Lawrences, and other Indian heroes, his boyhood wa^ distinguished
less for book learning than as a leader in athletic and other healthy sports,
particularly swimming in Jackson's mill-stream, near his father's house, an exercise
for which he retained a great partiality in after life. It appeared distressing to the
lad that young ideas should be stifled by logic. "A few pages of history (he
wrote in after life) give more insight into the human mind, and in a more
agreeable manner, than all the metaphysical volumes that ever were published.
The men who have made the greatest figure in public life, and have been most
celebrated for their knowledge of mankind, probably never consulted any of these
sages, from Aristotle downwards." Munro was now a devourer of books ; and at
sixteen, being justly told that no English translation can convey an adequate
notion of "Don Quixote," he made himself a sufficient master of Spanish to
relish his favourite romance in the original — a trait of zeal and enthusiasm which
ought to have been more valuable in the eyes of his parents than a whole hamper
of prize books. The first step in the career of Munro was to get himself rated as

SIR THOMAS MUNRO, K.C.B.

'37

a midshipman on board the East India Company's ship "Walpole;" but this was,
soon after, fortunately commuted for a Madras cadetship, and in the year 1779 he
proceeded to the scene of his future useful and distinguished life. Hyder Ali,
the most formidable single enemy tliat ever threatened the Company's possessions,
then hung over the Camatic; and Munro, after passing six months at the
Presidency, most part beneath the hospitable roof of David Halliburton, Persian
interpreter, was attached, in 1780, as ensign to the i6th Madras Native Infantry,
under the immediate orders of the Commander-in-Chief, General Stuart, before
referred to. The unfortunate defeat of Colonel Baillie'a detachment, on its march
to join the main army, is related in a letter from Sir Thomas to his father.

Munro's dauntless bearing all through the Mysore war waged by Lord
Comwallis against Hyder Ali attracted the notice of his superiors, and, after he
had been promoted to the rank of Lieutenant, his talents and discretion obtained
for him, in August, 1788, the appointment of assistant in the Intelligence Depart-
ment. In this capacity he served under the orders of Captain Alexander Read,
in the occupation of the ceded district of Guntoor, until the breaking out of the
war with Tippoo Saib in 1790, when he again took the field with the army, and
remained with it till the hollow peace of 1 79a. On the cession by Tippoo of the
Baramahl, he was again employed imder Captain Read in the civil administration
of that district till 1799. In the ensuing campaign Captain Munro served in the
army of Lord Harris as secretary to his friend, then Colonel Read, who com-
manded a detached force; and, after the fall of Seringapatam, he was appointed,
with Captain, afterwards Sir John, Malcolm, joint-secretary to the Commissioners
for the settlement of Mysore. Next he was nominated by Lord Mornington
{afterwards Marquis Wellealey), then Governor-General of India, to the charge of
the civil administration of Canara, a wild and rugged province on the western or
Malabar coast of the peninsula.

Lieutenant Munro wisely described Tippoo as incomparably the most powerful
and dangerous enemy of the English at that time, and condemned as preposterous
the notion, then prevalent, of attempting to preserve a balance between Powers so

138 THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

unequal as Mjisoie and its neighbours. "But everything now is done by moderation
and conciliation ; at this rate, we shall be all Quakers in twenty years more. I am
still of the old doctrine, that the best method of making all princes keep the peace,
not excepting even Tippoo, is to make it dangerous for thera to disturb your quiet"
During all this dangerous and harassing period, the young officer's letters home
continued to be of the most minute, playful, and affectionate character. His
lister had advised him to get married, but he judged on the whole that such a
itep would add but little to his happiness. "Would it not be a very comfort-
able matter, about the end of the century, to read in the 'Glasgow Courier' —
'Vesterday was married Lieutenant Munro, the eldest subaltern in the East

India Company's service, to Miss , one of the eldest maiden ladies of this

place. The ceremony was performed by the Rev. Mr , in the Ramshom,

and immediately after the happy couple," &c. I have no relish, I suspect, for
what is called domestic felicity. I could not endure to go about gossiping, and
paying formal visits witli my wife, and then coming home and consulting about
a change in our furniture, or physicking some of the squalling children that
Providence might bless us with. You will say — 'You will be a more respect-
able character at home, settled with your family, than wandering about India
like a vagabond.' But I cannot perceive that the one situation is more credit-
able than the other. . . In a place Uke Glasgow I should be tired in all
companies with disputes about the petty politics of the town, of which I know
nothing; and anecdotes of families, in whose concerns I am in no way interested.
Among the merchants I should be entertained with debates on sugar and
tobacco, except when some one touched upon cotton, which would give me an
opportunity of opening ray mouth, and letting the company know that I had
been in India, and seen one species growing on bushes, and another on trees
taller than any that adorn the Green. After thus expending all my knowledge,
I should not again venture to interrupt the conversation." After the fall of
Seringapatara and the final overthrow of Tippoo's power (\^^<)), Captain Munro
waa raised to the rank of Major and made Governor, as mentioned above, of

H

A

SlJi THOMAS MUNRO, K.C.S.

»3^

the disturbed district of Canara, ceded by the Nizam in corarautation of subsidy.
He was in frequent communication with Colonel Wellesley (afierwards Duke of
Wellington), who forwarded to Munro a long account of one of his earliest successes
in India — the defeat and death of the daring usurper known as Dhoondee,
"King of the Two Worlds," near Yepulpurry, in the Kistra country. . In 1808,
af^er an absence of 38 years, Major Munro obtained leave of absence on a
visit to his native country, and renewed acquaintance with his early haunts at
and around North Woodside. A notice of his reference to them in a letter to
his sister has already been given. He was at this time also examined by a
Commitee of the House of Commons regarding a renewal of the Company's
Charter, and the judicial as well as the commercial features of recent Indian
legislation. After a sojourn here of about six years, Munro, then enjoying the
full rank of Colonel, re-embarked for India, having shortly before, in oblivion
of his early diatribes against matrimony, been united to Jane, daughter of
Richard Campbell of Craigie, Ayrshire, a lady whose society formed the comfort
and delight of his after life. Colonel Munro distinguished himself in the
Pindaree and Maharatta wars (1817-19), and led Mr. Manning to express in
the House of Commons his warm appreciation of the plans carried out by him
for the subjugation of these troublesome neighbours. Europe, it was said, never
had produced a more accomplished statesman, nor India, so fertile in heroes,
a more skilful soldier — words, Munro wrote in a private letter, malting it "worth
while to be a Governor to be spoken of in such a manner by such a man."
At the conclusion of the Maharatta War, Colonel Munro resigned his military
command, and, accompanied by his family, again visited England, where he
arrived in 1819. In November of that year he was invested with the insignia
as a Knight Companion of the Bath. In iSao, with the rank of Major-General,
he returned to Madras as Governor of that Presidency in succession to the
Hon. Hugh Elliot; and, as a farther reward for his distinguished services, he
was created a Baronet of the United Kingdom, June 30, 1825. The Burmese
war prevented him from retiring from India so early as he wished ; and, sacrificing

140

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

his personal wishes and convenience to the public service, he retained office till its
conclusion, At length, in 1827, Sir Thomas made eveiy arrangement Tor returning
to enjoy well-earned honours in his native land, but before his departure
proceeded to pay a farewell visit to the people of the ceded districts, for whom he
had continued to feel a strong interest, but was attacked witli cholera on 5th July,
then prevalent in the country, and expired next day at Pulleecondah, near Gooty,
where he lies buried. Sir Thomas was then in his sixty-sixth year. He left a
family of two sons — (1) Thomas of Lindertis, Forfar counly, second and present
Baronet, some time a Caplain in the 10th Hussars, bom 1819; and {i) Campbell
Munro of Fairfield, Lyme Regis, late a Captain of the Grenadier Guards, married,
with issue sons and daughters. Lady Thomas Munro survived her illustrious
husband twenty-three years, dying in September, 1850. Concerning the property
of North Woodside, so intimately, and — as has been shown — so affectionately,
associated with the memory of Sir Thomas Munro, a few sentences will be given in
another chapter.

yOHN KNOX AND THE ABBOT OF
CROSSRAGUEL AT MAYBOLE.

Connected, il is thought not very remotely, with the Renfrewshire Knoxes of
Ranfarly and Craigends, it is only in a secondary degree the aim of this paper to
give local significance to that remarkable passage in the life of the Reformer
generally described as the "Crossraguel Disputation "^the only debate of the
kind known to have taken place in Scotland during the great strife between the
Churches. The aim of the writer is twofold, and on the whole wider in purpose
than anything merely local. He desires, in the first place, to show how such a
discussion became possible through the condition of the Church in Scotland

t

JOHN KNOX AND THE ABBOT OF CROSSRAGUEL.

immediately prior to the Reformation; second, to give some account of the
discussion itself, known only in a general way to other than special students in
Church history. That the Roman Church in Scotland was in the early part of
the sixteenth century corrupt and inefficient beyond all precedent at home,
indolent and ignorant beyond anything heard of in either Italy or Spain, requires
little argument beyond the plain statement of fact that, when her fall came, she
fell almost without a struggle, and with hardly the honour of a dissolution. Had
the old Church not reformed herself in a degree second only to what was pressed
for by the Reformers, she would have died and made no sign— crumbled away
to forgetfulness under the pressure of her own incompetence. But she did
reform herself, and won through poverty and persecution a spirit of toleration
and a wealth of learning to which for generations earlier she had either been a
stranger or a remorseless foe. This made the Romanism of later years something
altogether different from the Romanism by which it was preceded— different in
character as well as different in influence — and the good change has been carried
on with ever- in creasing force til] our own day. A like "revival,'' but on a mote
gigantic scale, took place in the south of Europe after the preaching of Luther.
Almost at the moment when "Friar" Martin was challenging Romish doctrine at
Worms (1521) under protection afforded by the Elector, there passed out from
the Theatine Convent of Venice that Ignatius I^yola, in early life a Spanish
hidalgo, but now poor, lame, and obscure, yet destined to found an Order famous
in the histories of Churches as well as of States, for infusing new zeal into every
department of knowledge — the pulpit, the press, the confessional, and the academies.
As scholars, physicians, merchants, and missionaries, the Jesuits came to be found
everywhere and under every disguise, uniting philosophy, literature, and science
to the early orthodox teaching in rehgious belief and personal subjection to the
will of the Church. Loyola was boni 1491, eight years after Luther, and died
1556, when Knox was preaching the reformed doctrines in Geneva.

Long before the year last mentioned the fair ecclesiastical system built up
by King David was tottering to ruin. Nor can it be said that the foundation of

149 THE WEST CO UNTR Y IN HISTOR Y.

even such seats of learning as St Andrews, Glasgow, and Aberdeen could either
save it or vindicate its existence. The later Provincial Councils of the Church
appeared heariless in procedure or divided in council — sometimes both — and
thus sounds of only an uncertain kind came to be given out for the guidance of
the faithful, With one half of the land in possession of the Church, prelates had
naturally become arrogant and indolent, and lay nobles discontented, while the
rapidly rising middle class, strongly favouring for the most part the " new learning "
from Germany, were severely hostile. This unhappy state of matters was but ill
compensated for by swarms of wandering friars, who usurped the place of parochial
priests without discharging any duty to the common people. In the higher ranks
of the clergy immorality had become so common that it ceased to be spoken of as
a vice, and the illegitimate children of archbishops, as well as of the lesser
dignitaries, ranked so high among the nobility as to make even Royal alhances, of
which descendants boasted. It is not quite correct to say that this corrupt
system was overthrown by the influence of a rapacious nobility. In the unjust
division made of Church property at the Reformation most of them no doubt
exhibited all the greed of sacrilegious zealots, eager to share the spoil ; but the
reforming lords ivcrc few in number— not more than half-a-dozen — the most
notable being Argyll, Glencairn, Cassillis, and Rolhes. The Hamiltons, Gordons,
Douglases, and Athols—the Regent himself till the eve of the Reformation— alt
remained on the side of the old Church, or were identified in only a remote degree
with the establishment of Presbytery. In Scotland the Reformation was in the
main effected through a few resolute scholars, backed by the lesser barons, gentry,
burghers, and the great body of the common people a degree or two above mere
serfdom, whose rising power the Church so blindly failed to recognise. It was to
such classes the keen satires of Lindsay and Dunbar specially appealed. Failing
lo assimilate itself to the new complicated conditions of life, and remorselessly as
she put forth her power early in the struggle, Romanism fell in Scotland when the
weapons of carnal warfare were withdrawn from its grasp. Blind enough herself,
but full of suspicion towards the people, she sought in a hesitating way at first to

3

t

JOHN KNOX AND THE ABBOT OF CROSSJiAGUEL.

143

check the fury of the storm bursting over her by cautioning the clergy to avoid
controversy with any one assailing either her purity or her proud pretensions.
This advice, cunningly enough devised, as she well knew, is thought to have been
all but universally observed. The only known exception now falls to be noticed
as occurring in the experience of Quentin Kennedy, last Abbot of the rich founda-
tion at Crossraguel, near Maybole, Ayrshire.

In the summer of 1562, when Knox was labouring in the West Country,
denouncing Popery as Antichrist, Quentin Kennedy, with more bravery than
discretion, stepped forward to dispute the point with the dauntless Reformer.
The Abbot belonged to one of the first families in Scotland, his father being
the famous Gilbert, second Earl of Cassillis, and bis nephew, also Gilbert, third
Earl, the pupil and patron of George Buclianan, who wrote one of his early
satires against the Franciscans while residing with the young Earl at Cassillis.
The Abbot's grandnephew was the rapacious and unscrupulous fourth Earl
Gilbert, best known as "King of Carrick," but still more notorious in the
annals of violence for having roasted Quentin's successor in the Abbey lands,
Allan Stewart, Coromendator, before a fierce fire in the dark vault of Dunure
Castle, for the purpose of extorting a grant of that properly, as lying contiguous
to his own estate. Abbot Quentin Kennedy also possessed what many of his
brethren lacked: he was of blameless lifi;, and something of a scholar. With
but narrow notions of statecraft, and even little of that dialectic or theological
skill which distinguished Knox, Abbot Kennedy was yet probably the foremost
champion at the lime Rome could have expected to appear in Scotland in her
defence. His first appearance as a polemical writer was in 1558, four years
before his encounter with Knox, when he published a short synopsis of Catholic
belief, known still to collectors of curiosities as the " Compendious Tractive,"
showing "the ncrrest and onlie way to establish the conscience of a Christian
man " in all matters which were in debate concerning faith and religion. This,
as explained, was nothing else than implicit faith in the decision of the Church.
When any point of religion was controverted, Scripture might be cited as a

144

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

witness, but holy mother Church was to be the judge. It was held to be
sufficient for those who did not occupy the place of teachers that they had a
general knowledge of the Creed, the Ten Commandments, and the Lord's
Prayer, according to the sense In which they were explained by the Church:
while as to the Sacraments and all other secrets of Scripture every Christian
man was to "stand in the judgment of his pastor." On the 30th August,
according to MCrie, Abbot Kennedy read in his chapel at Kirkoswald a number
of articles respecting the mass, purgatory, praying to saints, and the use of
images, which he said he would defend against any who challenged them; but
in the meantime promised to declare his mind more fully respecting them on
the following Sunday, Knox, who is presumed to have been living at the time
with Lord Ochiltree (whose daughter became the Reformer's second wife), no
way reluctant to accept the challenge, set out for the scene of controversy on
the day indicated. In the morning he sent forward certain gentlemen who
accompanied him to inform the .'kbbot of the purpose in view, and desiring
him either to preach according to promise, or to attend a sermon to be delivered
by the Reformer himself. The Abbot did not appear, but on coming down
the pulpit stairs a letter from him was put into Knox's hand. This led to an
epistolary correspondence almost as curious as the " Disputation " itself, but
too lengthy for quotation or even further reference. Knox wished the debate
to be conducted publicly in St. John's Church, Ayr. The Provost's house in
Maybole was afterwards mutually agreed upon. " Ye sail," writes Knox, " be
assured I sail keip day and place in Mayboill, according to my writing, and
1 haif my life, and my feit louse." The date was fixed to be September a8,
at eight o'clock in the morning; forty persons to be admitted by each champion
as witnesses, with " as many more as the house might goodly hold, at the
sight of my Lord of Cassillis." Notaries or scribes were also chosen on each
side to record the papers which might be given in by the parties, and the
arguments put forward. The particulars of the controversy were printed at
the time in a now unique black-letter tract, entitled "Coppie of the Resoning

i

JOHN KNOX AND THE ABBOT OF CJROSSHAGUEL.

which was betwixt the Abbote of Crosaraguell (Quentin Kennedy) and John
Knox, in Mayboill, concerning the Masse, in the year of God a thousand five
hundred three score and two yeires. Edinburgh [printed by]: Robert Lepraik,
1563-" A copy of this original, very rare black-letter pamphlet was discovered
by Sir Alexander Boswell in the Auchinleck Library, and reprinted at Edinburgh
'\n facsimile, i8ia. Even this reprint is now a choice curiosity difficult to obtain.

The opening scene of the controversy was highly characteristic. When partita
on each side were duly gathered together, Knox desired the Abbot to offer up
public prayer; "whereat the Abbot was soir offended at the first; but when the
said John wold in nowise be stayed, he and his gave audience, which being ended,
the Abbole said, ' Be my feilh, it is wcill said.' " The debate itself was entirely
confined to the interpretation of that text in the Old Testament, where it is said
that Melchisedec brought out bread and wine in presence of Abraham and his
company; the Abbot asserting that those elements were brought out as an
oblation to God; and Knox, that ihey were produced merely for the refreshment
and consumption of the visitors, contending that the mysterious King of Salem
was the figure of Christ in that he offered bread and wine unto God ; so, continued
the Abbot, it behoved Christ to offer in His Last Supper His own body and blood
under the forms of bread and wine. The second day was again mostly taken up
with Abbot Kennedy, who urged against Knox that Abraham and hrs company
had a sufficiency of provision in the spoil taken during their late victorious engage-
ment at Dan, and did not therefore need Melchisedec's bread and wine. When
parties met on the third day the Abbot presented a paper, in which he stated
certain other objections to the view taken of the text by Knox, who in turn pressed
his opponent to produce proof for the final argument on which he intended to rest
his case. The Abbot appeared indisposed to do this verbally, but put into Knox's
hand a small book on the subject, presumed to have been, although Knox does not
mention it distinctly, Kennedy's "Familiar Commune on the Mass," printed the
preceding jear. By this time the audience expressed feelings of weariness. The
gentlemen present had not been able to find suitable entertainment either for

themselves or retinue in Maybole, so that, remarks M'Crie, had any person
brought in vine there and then among thero it is thought they would not have
debated long concerning the purpose for which it was intended. Knox proposed
that they should adjourn to Ayr, and there finish the dispute; but to this the
Abbot objected. He expressed himself, however, as willing on some future
occasion to proceed to Edinburgh for the purpose of renewing the debate, pro-
vided he could obtain the Queen's permission. Upon this the company dismissed,
never again to have the privilege of listening to a debate in which Rome staked the
issue on appeal to reason as distinguished from tradition and authority. The
dispute was never resumed, although Knox writes of having applied to the Privy
Council for the necessary permission. Abbot Kennedy died in August, 1564,
and is mentioned by Dempster as having been canonised—" Aug. 22. — Monasterio
Crucis regalis obilus Bcati Quintini Kennedii Abbotis," &c. The name, it is but
right to say, does not appear in the Roman Calendar. Among the objects of
interest in and around Maybole, and there are many — some to be afterwards
referred to in these pages — not the least suggestive is the still existing fabric
known as "The Provost's House," in which the singular encounter above described
took place.

TI/E STORY OF GLENFRUJN,

4

I

It has been the fashion lately among historians who think lightly of
James VI. as a statesman, to contrast to his disadvantage the famous
Settlement, or Plantation, as it was called, of Ulster, with the disorder he
permitted to exist at the same time along his own Highland line, better
known, it has been argued, and even easier of access. This story of the

J

THE STORY OF GLENI-RUIN.

147

Raid or " Conflict " of Glenfniui, may be taken as at least one pregnant
illustration of the difference in disposition prevailing among the quiet thrifty
emigrants of the North of Ireland and the turbulent chieftains of Western
Scotland, who despised alike the peace of their neighbour and the power
of their Sovereign. The year 1603, memorable in British history from the
Union of the Crowns, is especially conspicuous in this western part of the
island by an encounter of unusual fierceness, even for these days, which
took place between the Clangregor and the ancient family of Colquhoun of
Luss.

That the Macgregors for many years prior to 1603 were considered a
disorderly clan is not seriously disputed, except, it may be, among a few
family enthusiasts whom the grace of Parliament in the reign of George III.
permitted to resume their own name. In 1563, their excesses had reached
such a height that Queen Mary, by an Act of Privy Council, granted i>ermission
lo several noblemen to pursue them with fire and sword, and prohibited the
lieges from receiving or assisting them in any way whatever. In 15S9 the
murder of John Drummond in the forest of Glenartney— a murder attended
with circumstances of appalling atrocity — again let loose the terrors of the law
against the clan; but to so litde purpose that in 1594 the Macgregors, along
with the Macfarlanea of Arrochar, occupy iffe unenviable distinction of being
the first-mentioned clans against whom the statute for the punishment of " theft,
reiif, oppression, and soming" was directed. It has been alleged tJiat the
extensive possessions held by the Macgregors in Perthshire and Argyllshire
had been iniquitously WTested from them by the Earls of Argyll and Breadaibane,
and that, therefore, the clan was justified in treating with contempt those laws
from which they so often experienced severity, and never protection. But this
allegation, even if correct, could have only a secondary bearing in iheir dispute
with Colquhoun of Luss, as it is not even hinted that this family either shared
in the plunder or abetted others in their attacks upon the Clangregor.

In order lo strengthen their position, the Macgregors, about the close of

148

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORV.

the sixteenth century, entered into alliances, offensive and defensive, with certain
families reputed to be connected with them by "auld descent" or otherwise-
One was concluded at Kilmoric, on the 6th June, 1571, between James
Macgregor and Lauchlan Mackinnon of Strathardill; and another, twenty years
later, between Alexander Macgregor of Glenstray and Aulay M'Aulay of Ardincaple.
The latter, "understanding out name to be M'Calppins of auld," bound himself
to assist Macgregor, and to pay the "calpe" in token of submission. Before
the close of the yeai in which this last "bond" was signed, the King's Secret
Council were called to listen to a complaint by Buchanan of Culcreuch, that,
under pretence of revenging the slaughter of certain of his men by the Buchanans,
M'Aulay had conceived deadly haired against the complainer, and under colour
of His Majesly's charge, had brought within the Buchanan territory a great
number of Macgregor's men, all of them "broken men and somers, to som, harry,
and wrack the complainet's lands and possessions."

Regarding the origin of the feud between the Macgregors and Colquhouns,
no very precise information has ever been forthcoming. Sir Walter Scott tells a
story on which, however, much reliance cannot be placed. Two of the Macgregors
(he says) being benighted, asked shelter in a house belonging to a dependent of
the Colquhouns, and were refused. They then retired to an out-house, took a
wedder from the fold, killed it, and supped off the carcase, for which they offered
payment to the owner. The Laird of Luss, so goes the story, unwilling to be
propitiated by the offer made to hia tenant, seized the offenders, and, by the
summary process which feudal barons had at their command, caused them to be
condemned and executed. The Macgregors confess to verify this account of the
feud by appealing to the proverb current among them, execrating the hour
(mult dhu an carbail ghil) that the black wedder with the white tail was ever
lambed.

If the dying declaration of Macgregor of Glenstray can be believed— and there
seems no strong reason to question his veracity — the feud was kept up, if not
originated, by the artful machinations of Archibald, Earl of Argyll, who in January,

^

THE STORY OF GLENFRVIN.

149

1593, obtained a commission for repressing the violence of "the wicked
Clangregour, and divers other broken men of the Hielands;" with power to
charge "all and sindrie persoris of the surname of Macgregour, thair assisstara
and pairt takaris, to find souirtie, or to enter plegeis as he sail think maist
expedient, for observatioun of his hieness peace, quietness, and guide reule in the
countrey;" and, if necessary, to "persew and assege their housis, and strengthis, raise
fyre, and use all kynd of force and weirlyke iogyne " against that clan. In these
circumstances (says Pitcaim, whose valuable " Criminal Trials'* throw so much
light upon the " Raid of Glenfruin ") it might be supposed that it was Argyll's
interest, as it certainly was his duty, to have done all in his power to retain the
Clangregor in obedience to the laws ; but, on the contrary, it appears that
from that time he first, as King's lieutenant, acquired complete control over
the Macgregors, the principal use he made of his power was artfully to stir
up the clan to various acts of aggression and hostility against his own personal
enemies, of whom, it is well known, Colquhoun of Luss was one. It is therefore
to be remarked that at the period of the conflict at Glenfruin both parties were
in a manner equally armed with the royal authority — the Laird of Luss having
raised his forces under a commission emanating from the King himself, while
the Macgregors marched to invade the Lennox under the authority of the
King's lieutenant.

With "Commissions of Pursuit" in the hands of leaders like Argyll, and
subordinates, like the Laird of Culcreuch, it is little wonder that the restless,
though brave, Clangregor had recourse to desperate measures, both of defence
and retaliation. In i6oz, their forays upon the lands of Luss became so frequent
and aggravated, that the King, upon complaint being made to him, issued the
following warrant, dispensing, in favour of Sir Alexander Colquhoun, with the
provisions of the Act anent the wearing of guns and other weapons: —

" We vnderstanding that sindrie of the disorderlie thievis and lymmaris of the
Clangregour wyth utheris thair complices dailie makis incursions vpoun and
within the boundis and landis pertaining to Alexander Colquhoun of Lus, stealls,

ISO

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

reiffs, and awataks divers gret herschipps fra him and his tenants; likeas thay
tak greater bauldness to contincw in th.iir said stouth and reiff becaus thay ar
mamiit wyth all kynd of prohibit, and forbidding weapponis. Tbairfor, for the
bettir defense of the Laird of Lus and his saidis tennants, guidis, and gear, fra
the peraewit of the saidia thievis and broken men, we have given and grantit,
and be the tenor heirof give and grant licence and libertie to the said Alexander
Colquhoun oi Lus, his househald men and servantis, and sic as sail accompany him,
not onlie to beir, weir, and shuitt wyth hagbmtis and pistoleitis in the following and
persewitt of the said thievis and lymmaris, quhilk is lauchful be the act of
parliament, but alas to beir and weir the same hagbuttis and pistolettis in ony
pairt abune the water of Levin, and at the said Laird's place at Dunglas and
landis of Colquhoun, for the watching and keeping of thair awn guidis without
ony crime, scaith, pains, or dainger to be incurred be thaim thairfra, in thair
personois, landis, or guidis in ony manner of way in tyrae coming, notwithstanding
our acts, statutes, or proclamations in the conlrar thafranent or pains therein
contenit, we dispens be thir presents. Given under our signet and subscrivit
wyth our hand at Hamiltoun, the fyrst dai of September, and of our reign the
xxyj year, 1602, James."

In the early part of 1603, the Macgregors and Colquhouns are described in
several works as desirous of terminating their feud by a friendly conference;
but, with characteristic imprudence, they each seem to have made secret pre-
parations to follow up that conference with instant measures of hostility if its
results were not satisfactory. Judging from the records of the burgh of Dumbarton,
the alleged peaceable intention of the Macgregors does uot appear to have made a
strong impression on the burgesses. On the 8th January of that year (1603) —

" It ia ordained that al! burgesses within the burgh be sufhcientlie fumissit
with armor, and that sik persones as the baillies and counsall think fitt sail be
fumissit with hagbuttis, that they half the samyn with the furnitear thairto,
uthirs quha sail be appointit to haif jak speir and steil-bonnat, that thay be
fumiasit with the samyn, and that the Baillies and counsall on the xxt of this

J

THE STORY OF GLENFRUIN.

instant make ane catholok of ihe saidis personis names with their armor, and
they be chargeit to haif tlie said arraor redey, and to present thame with the
samyn at muster, and this to remaine in all tymes under the pane of x ptmds,
the ane half to the Baillie, the uthir to the use of the burgh. Item, that ilk
merchand or ctafttsman keipand buith haif ane halbart within the samyn under
the pane of v punds. Item, that na burgess be maid heirefter without produc-
tioun of his armor at his crealioun, and that he sweir the samyn is his own."

As no record relating to any conference between the families at feud has
been preserved, it is more than doubtful if it ever took place; and the allega-
tion made against the Laird of Luss, that he treacherously attacked the
Macgregors at its termination, is not substantiated by documents of the slightest
value. Neither, on the other hand, can more credence be attached to the
statement that the Macgregors on this particular occasion were the assailants.
All that can safely be affirmed of the occurrence is, that on the 7th of February,
1603, both parties, fully prepared for hostilities, met in the Valley of the Fruin,
or Glen of Sorrow — a name singularly suggestive of the events of the day, as the
victory proved not more fatal to the vanquished than the victors. This now
quiet retreat, so familiar to the angler and botanist, runs west from Loch Lomond
in the direction of Dumfin and Dnimfad, and then slightly north towards the
source of the Fruin, near Strone Hill, in Row parish.

Regarding the force by which each chief was supported, various contra-
dictory statements have been made. Alexander Ross, the historian of the
Sutherland family, puts down Macgregor's force at 300 footmen ; and, notwith-
standing the manner in which the clan was broken up, there is no room to
doubt that he would be able lo raise at least that number to attack such an
enemy as the Laird of Luss. But when the same authority states Luss' force
to have been 300 horse and 500 foot, the assertion must be received with
great caution, as it is not likely, even with the aid he received from the burgh
of Dumbarton, that this chief could, in a single district of the Lennox, raise
an anny equal to what on some occasions obeyed the behest of the King. Hit

n»

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

footmen are not likely to have much outnumbered Macgregot's, and if anjr
horsemen were foolhardy enough to accompany Luss to the scene of the con-
flict, the nature of the ground must have made their services perfectly useless.
The locality was of the worst possible description for a fair trial of strength,
but admirably suited for such desultory attacks as the Clangregor had been
long in the habit of waging. The only wonder is how the Laird of Luss, who
must have known the place thoroughly, ever ventured to encounter an enemy
in such a place. With great forethought Allister Macgregor divided his force
into two divisions — one led by himself, which advanced against the vanguard of
Luss' party; and the other led by his brother, John Macgregor, who attacked
them in the rear. The possession of the glen was stoutly contested for a short
time, but Colquhoun's force, finding itself unable to contend with success against
the enemy, commenced a retreat which was almost as disastrous to them as a
conflict; for, besides having to fight their way through the force led by John
Macgregor, they were closely followed by Allister, who, finding his brother
slain, reunited the two divisions, and hung upon the fugitives to the very gates
of Rossdhu. Numerous stragglers who had become detached from the main
body in the flight, were seized and slain without mercy, while the weak and
the defenceless, who had taken no share in the conflict, were also sacrificed
by the infuriated Macgregors. ^Vhen the flight had terminated a scene of
murder, robbery, and destruction commenced wliich finds no parallel in even
the bloody raids of the period. In the language of the indictment against
their chief, the Macgregors seized six hundred kye and oxen, eight hundred
Bhe«p and goats, fourteen score of horse, set fire to the houses and bam-yards
of the tenantry, and, in a word, carried off or destroyed the " haill plenishing,
guids, and gear of the fourscore pund land of Luss." In the conflict and
retreat, the Colquhoun party lost about one hundred and forty, while the
Macgregors, it is said, did not lose more than two men— -a slender excuse for
the atrocities with which they disgraced their victory. Among those slain while
aiding the Colquhouns were — Peter (or Patrick) Napiei of Kilmahew; Tobiaa

A

THE STORY OF GLENFRUIN. 153

Smollett, bailie of Dumbarton {an ancestor of the novelist) ; David Fallisdaill,
burgess there; his two sons, Thomas and James; Walter Colquhoun and John
Colquhoun, Barnhill ; and Aiiam and John, sons of Colquhoun of Camstradden.

In addition to the slaughter in the open field, the Macgregors are accused
of massacring in cold blood a party of students whose curiosity had led them
from Dumbarton to the scene of the conflict in Glenfruin. Some doubt is
certainly thrown upon this statement from the circumstance that it is not
mentioned in the indictments against the Macgregors; but it seems not indis-
tinctly alluded to in the record of the Privy Council proceedings against Allan
Oig M'Intnach of Glencoe, who, in ifiog, was accused of assisting the Clangregor
of Glenfruin, and of having, with his own hand, there " murdered without pity
the number of forty poor persons, who were naked and without armour," The
Macgregors themselves did not deny there was a massacre of unprotected people
who were present as spectators, but they impute the cruel deed to the ferocity
of a single man of their tribe— Dugald Ciar Mhor, or the dun coloured, who
is said to have been an ancestor of Rob Roy's. The deed is said to have been
committed during the time of the pursuit ; and on the chief of the Macgregors
asking after the safety of the youths on his return, the Ciar Mhor drew out
his bloody dirk, exclaiming in Gaelic, "Ask that, and God save me."

Hardly had the pursuit ceased and the plunder been secured, when justice
in its most relentless form was let loose upon the track of the Macgregors. The
measures taken against them, from their very severity, often defeated the object
they were designed to serve ; and hence, in seeking to extinguish the clan and
abolish the name, more was done to keep alive a knowledge of both than anything
the Macgregors themselves could have accomplished. Almost as soon after the
conflict as the bodies could be stripped, Sir Alexander Colquhoun appeared before
the King at Stirling, accompanied by the female relatives of the slain, each clad in
deep mourning, and bearing alofl the bloody garments of their kinsmen. The
idea of this impressive spectacle seems to have originated — not with Sir Alexander
Colquhoun, but with some of his advisers, Sempill of Fullwood, and William

>H

THE WEST COVNTRV m SISTORY.

I

Stewart, Captain of Dumbarton Castle, being referred to in an epistle, addressed
to Sir Alexander, immedialely after the conflict, by Bailie Fallisdaill, Dumbarton \—

" Ryt honorable Sir, — My deutie wyt service remembrit Plass you the Lard
of Fulwood and the Capatine thinking ihat you ma adres yourself wyt als monie
bludie sarks, as ather ar deid, or hurt of your men, togetter wyt als mony women,
to present them to his Majesetie in Stirling upon Tysday, for thai ar boyth to lyd
thair upoune Tysday, quha will assist you at thair power. The meitest time is now
becaus of the French Imbassador that is wyt his Majestic."

King James, peculiarly susceptible of such emotions as this spectacle wai
calculated to produce, vowed vengeance against the lawless clan. By an Act of
the Privy Council, dated 3rd April, 1603, it was made an offence punishable with
death to bear the name of Macgregor, or to give any of the clan food or shelter.
After this they were hunted like wild beasts, their dwellings were destroyed, they
were loaded with every epithet of abhorrence, and every corner of the country was
ransacked where there was the least possibility of them taking refuge.

As it was the Earl of Argyll who was responsible lo the Privy Council for the
conduct of the Macgregors, to him was chiefly intrusted the execution of the
severe measures adopted towards them. Amongst the first against whom he
directed the full force of his new powers was Aulay M'Aulay of Ardincaple, who,
as has been seen, so far back as May, 1591, had entered into a bond of clanship
with Allister Macgregor, admitting that he was a cadet of his house, and promising
to pay him " The Calp." Proceedings were therefore instituted against him for
having aided and abetted the Macgregors at Glenfruin; but as he was among the
train of the Earl of Lennox in the King's journey to England to take possession of
the Throne, a seasonable warrant was issued by His Majesty to the Justice-General
and his deputies, commanding them to "desert the dyett" against M'Aulay, aa
he was " ahogeddir free and innocent of the crymes allegit agains him." To other
offenders no such leniency was shown. On the 28th of April, Allister M'Kic,
Gilchrist Kittoche, and Findlay Dow M'Lean were " dilattet of certaine poyntis of
thefts," and for "cuming to the Laird of Lussis boundis in companie with the

i

THE STORY OF GLENFRUIN.

Laird of Macgregour, and being airt and pairl of the tnurtliour and reiff committat
thairin" in February. Being found guilty, "the justice be the mouth of James
Hendersone, dempster of Court, ordaint tliame, and ilk ane of thame, to be tane
to the Bonowmure of Edenborough, and to be hangit vpone the galloise thairof
quhill they be deid; and all thair moveable gudes to be escheiL" On the zolh
May, Gillespie M'Donald, M'Innis Dow, Donald M'Clerich or Stewart, and
John M'Coneill M'Condochie, were severally accused of being " airt and pairt in
the lait grit slauchter and crewall murthour of sevin scoir persones in the Lennox,
all friendts and servandis to the Laird of Luss; and of the thiftous steiUing and
reiffing of aucht hundreth osin, ky, and ilher bestiall, and herrieing the haill
cuntrie;" and being found guilty, were sentenced "to be tane to the Castell-hill of
Edinburghe, and to be hangit thair on ane gibbit, quhill they be deid." On the
5th of July, Gilliemicheli M'Hissock with Nicoll M'Pharie Roy M'Gregor; on the
14th, John Dow M'OncoalicIv M'Gregor; and on the 12th August, Dugall
M'Gregor with Neil M'Gregor Prudache, were dealt with in a similar manner;
but the most of these being merely servants, the Privy Council found it necessary
to take still more stringent measures than they had yet done, to bring some of
the leaders within reach of the law. This appears more distinctly from a document
among the law papers, in the form of a deliverance of the Council regarding a
supplication presented by " the gentlemen of the Lennox," who seem to have been
afraid that proceedings would be adopted against them for having "intromittit with
the guids and gear of the Macgregors."

Notwithstanding the close manner in which he was hemmed in, Allister, the
Chief of the Macgregors, contrived to elude the vigilance of his pursuers for
nearly a twelvemontii. Tlie Sheriff of Argyllshire (Campbell, of Ardkinlass)
attempted his capture, by inviting him to a banquet, but, detecting the trick
before it was accomplished, Macgregor sprang out of the boat in which he was
placed, and swam to the shore in safety. With the Eail of Argyll he was not so
fortunate. Under pretence that he would either obtain a pardon from the King or
convey him safely out of Scotland, Argyll managed to bring the wily old Mat^regor

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

from his hiding-place; but, as Birrel says, the Earl kept only a Highlandman's
promise, for he first marched out of Scotland with his guest as far as Berwick,
and then, having satisfied himself that he had fulfilled the letter of his engagement,
carried him back as prisoner to Edinburgh. They arrived there on the evening
of the i8th January, and next day Macgregor made a confession, in which —
making due allowance for the imtation he must have felt at being entrapped by
Argyll— a fair account appears to be given of the affray at Glenfruin. The
document itself is much too long for insertion here, but he specifically declared
that since he was first His Majesty's man he had never been at ease on account
of Argyll's falsehood and inventions — " He moveit my brother and some of my
friendis to commit bailh hcrship and slauchter upon the laird of Luss; also, he
persuadit myselfe with messages to weir agains the Laird of Boquhonene, quilk I
did refijse, for the quilk I was conlenowalie bosiit that he sould be my unfriend;
and quhcn I did refuse his desyre upon that point, then he iniysit me with uther
messingeris, as be the Laird of M'Knachtane and utheris of my friendis, to weir
and tnible the Laird of Luss, quhillc I behufiic to do for his fals boutgattis." On
the aoth January — two days after his arrival in Edinburgh— Al lister Macgregor,
along with four of his party, was brought to trial ; and, as appears from the Books
of Adjournal, they were all found guilly and executed the same day — the gibbet of
Allister, it is said, being his own height above that of his friends. As the bodies
were at once dismembered, the inhabitants of Dumbarton now enjoyed a savage
kind of revenge in ornamenting iheir Tolbooth with the heads of the
MacgregoTB:—

1604. — 13 Feb. — The Baillies and Counsall of Dumbarton "conctudit and
ordanitthat the I^rd of Macgregor's heid wl Patrick Auldochy his heid be put
up in the lolbuith on the most convenient place the baillies and counsall thinkis
guid." [From another entry it appears that a sum of 24 merks was paid as part
of the expense incurred in carrying this order into eflect.]

1604, — 17 April. — "Feiring the creueltie of the tyrannous persons of the
nune of the Clangregor and fyiing of the toune be tbame Thairfore it is statut

THE STORY OF GLENFRUIN.

157

and ordanit that the toim be devydit in aucht pairts and ilk aucht pairt to watche
ane nychL The watches to be armit and placit nytly by the quarter- master chosen
by the baillies. And quha keipis noclit watche according to the Baillies ordinance
gif he bes at hame himself and in his absence ane sufficient man, to paye ffourtie
sh for his disobedyances and the samyn to be payit Co the watchers and that the
baillies cheis aucht quarter-masters. Item that na dwellers wtn this toun ressaif ony
slraingers puir or rich wtout making the baillies foreseen undir the paine of ffourtie
sh toties quoties, the lua pis to the toun and the third to the baillies."

In April, 1605, the Privy Council urged on the pursuit of the Macgregors by
ordaining that whoever should present any of that clan quick (alive), or failing
that, the head of any of them, should have possession for nineteen years of all the
lands and goods belonging to such Macgregor, or a money recompense, to be
paid by the landlords of the district.

As it is not intended (o detail at length the trials of the other Macgregors
(seeing that nearly the same form was observed in each), it may be stated generally
that from tiie number executed under form of law, and the still greater number
slain as outlaws, the survivors in 1612 were described as "bot unworthie miserable
bodyis." Indeed, the " Raid of Glenfruin " seems to have been a last desperate
effort on the part of the clan, for very soon afterwards Lord Fyvie wrote to King
James that if all the great Highland clans were reduced to a like point, he "wold
think it ane grait ease to the commonn weill, and to his Majeslie's guid subjects
in Scotland;" while, about the same time, the Lords of Privy Council state that
the Clangiegor is so impoverished that it is impossible to extract from them what
will pay for their removal to other countries. Still Luss seems to have had cause
for anxiety, as he writes to the King in November, 1609, that his enemies had
entered upon their former courses, and praying tlial "lymous remeid" might be
provided. Next year, accordingly, in September, we find the Privy Council at the
old work of extirpation, an enactment being then issued prohibiting owners of
boats from transporting any of the "rebellious and barbarous thieves and lymmaris,"

158

THE WEST CO UJV TRY IN HISTORY,

bairns, or servands," across Lochlong, Lochgoil, or Loch-
1611, the Council eclipsed all its former encouragements to

or their "wives,
lomoDd.

In January,
revenge by enacting that

" Whatsomevir person or persones of the name of McGregour who sail slay
ony persone of the same name being of als good ranke and qualitie as him self and
sail prove the same slaughter befoir the saidis Lordis That everie suche persone
slayar of ane McGregour of the rank and qualitie forsaid sail hai ane free pardoun
and remissioun for all his bygane faultis, he finding suirtie to be ansuerable and
obedient to the Lawis in tyme comeingj And siclike that whatsomever uther
persone or personis will sUy ony of the particular personis underwritten Tbay are
to say Duncan McEwne McGregour now callit the Laird, Robert abroch
McGregour, Johne Dowe McAllister McGregour, Galium McGregour of CouU,
Duelchay McGregour and McRobert McGregour his bruther or ony utheris of the
rest of that race, That everie suche persone slayar of ony of the personis
particularlie abone-written or ony utheris of that race sail half ane reward in
money presentlie payit and delyverit unto thame according to the qualitie of the
persone to be slayde, and the least soume salbe ane hundreih merkis, and for the
chiftancs and ringleidaris of thir M'gregouris ane thousand pundes apiece,"
Proclamation of this to be made at the Market Crosses of Dumbarton, Stirling,
Doune in Monteith, Glasgow, and Auchterarder, All the inhabitants of the three
first-mentioned places between the ages of sixteen and sixty were thereupon
summoned: — "That thayand eueiyone of thame weele bodin in feir of weir for
thair awne defence and suirtie convene and mete at the heid of IjOchlowTnond
vpoun the xij day of Februair now approaching and to transport and carye fra the
said yle, the haill boilis and birlingis being upoun the same to the said loche of
Lochketterine, wherby his Majesties forceis appointed for persute and hunting
of the saidis woulffs and thevis may be transportit inlo the yle within the saide
loiche vnder the pane of tinsall of lyfTe landis and goodis." On the 23rd May,
j6ii, the Lords of Council ordained that "The haill bairns that are past xij yearis

4

THE STORY OF GLENFRVIN.

159

auld to be sent to Ireland be your lordships warrant to sic Scotchmen as your
lordships thinks metest that dwells thair, be whose advyce thair name be changit
and maid hindes, and thair to remain under pain of dede.

"As anent those that ar wythin xij yearis auld that they be your lordships
warrant be transplanted besoulh the waters of Forth and Clyde, conform to his
Majesties will to Justices of Peace of these boundis at thair next general meeting
whilk is the fyrst Tyesday of Feb. ; and be thair advyce to be placed and assigned
in tounes and parochinis and ihair name changit, and thair to remain vnder pain of
dede ; with power to the said Justices of Peace to give and allow ane fyne to even
iik ane of these for the help of thair sustenance ; and when they come to xij yearis,
that they be transplanted to Ireland."

Two years later the Chancellor (Alexander Fyvie, Earl of Dunfermline)
requires the presence of the Laird of Luss on the occasion of a report being
presented as to the proceedings against the Clangregor. About this time several
of the unhappy fugitives seem to have fallen into the toils prepared for them by
the Council. In a document among the Luss papers, bearing to be " The narnis
of the Clangregours that ar outlawis, and hes nocht fund cautioun," there is marked
against four of them the expressive memorandum, " hangit the xxij. of June, 1613."
Their names were Eune Cowbroche, Allister (bastard son to John Grahame),
Duncan M'Phatrick, and John Dow M'Condochie. On the last day of November,
1613, the Council arranged that the landlords should not be called upon to pay
any contribution, provided they took the Clangregor bairns according to the
proportion of their lands, and made them forthcoming when called for until
eighteen years of age, when they were to be exhibited to the Privy Council, and
their subsequent fate decided upon. If any of these unfortunate captives
happened to escape from his keeper and be recaptured, the child so escaping, if
under fourteen, was to be scourged and burnt on the cheek for the first attempt,
and hanged for the second. If above fourteen, they were to be hanged at once
without further ceremony. Seven years later — after Shakespeare, during the life
of Lord Bacon, In the country of Buchanan — the Lords of His Majesty's Council

l6o

THE WEST COUNTRY JN HISTORY.

are agaia engaged in the barbarous work of eKterminaiing the hapless children

Clan Alpin : —

"Quhairaa {it is recorded, August 29, 1631) thair is s new broode and
generatioun of this clan risstn up quhilk daylie incressis in nomber and force
and ar begun to haif thair raeitingis and gois in trotipis athorte the cuntrey
armed with all offensive weaponis, and some of the ringleaderis of thame who
anes gave thair obedyence and fund cautioun ar brolcin louse and hes committit
sundrie disordouria in the cuntrey, as namehe upoun the Duke of Lennox and
Laird of Craigcrosten, That thairfoir the former Act maid aganis suche of the
Clangregour as wer at Glenfroone and at the hershippis and burning of the
landis pertening to the Lairdis of Gtenurquhy and Luss and Coline Campbell
of Abirurquhill, That they sould toeare «o armoure but a pointks knyffe to cutt
thair meale, be renewit, with this addition. That the said act be extendit

ACANIS THE WHOLE NAME."

With enactments of this kind in even partial operation, the existence not
of one "Rob Roy," but of scores, was less 3 wonder to our ancestors than
to us. Such legislation continued to disgrace constitutional law till the reign
of Charles IL, when, in consequence of the uniform attachment the Macgregors
had exhibited to the cause of a misguided father, his first Parliament passed
an Act restoring to them the full use of their family name and all the other
privileges of liege subjects. In i<i93, however — a year after Glencoe, and a
part of the same policy it was thought— the penal Acts against the Macgregors
were renewed, without any special reason being assigned; and though put into
execution only on rare occasions, they were not finally swept from the statute
book till a British Parliament interfered in the reign of George IIL, 1784.

THE GREAT DOUGLAS CAUSE.

THE GREAT DOUGLAS CAUSE.

Earl Home's somewliat sudden death (summer of 1881), naturally directed
renewed attention to the relation in which he stood to the successful litigant
in the great legal contest of last century, between the houses of Douglas and
Hamilton— a contest not only of unsurpassed magnitude so far as the estates in
dispute were concerned, but which created an amount of excitement in Scotland,
and even on the Continent, altogether unparalleled. Raised in the dry technical
form of an action for "reduction of service" the inquiry revealed many features
of romantic interest, and engaged for eight years the highest legal talent at
both the Scotch and English Bars. Without searching amid the mists of
antiquity for matter to illustrate the annals of the renowned house of Douglas,
the "Cause" may be briefly mentioned as originating in events connected with
the life of ^Villiam, eleventh Earl of Angus, created Marquis of Douglas by
Charles I., June, 1633. As King's Lieutenant on the Borders the Marquis
kept up a princely hospitality at Douglas Castle, and during the Civil War
supported the cause of the King equally against Cromwell and the Covenanters,
He was twice married— first to Margaret Hamilton, sister of the first Earl of
Abercorn, and, secondly, to Lady Mary Gordon, daughter of the first Marquis
of Huntly, whose descendants came to represent the Hamilton party in the
Douglas plea. By his first wife the Marquis had, among other issue, a
son, Archibald, Earl of Angus, who died before his father, but lel^ a son,
Ja:nes, who becama second Marquis, and father of Archibald, third Marquis,
first and only Duke of Douglas, bom in 1694, and I^dy Jane Douglas, born
in Doughs Castle, 17th March, 1698. With the Duke and his sister this
narrative is more immediately concerned. The second Marquis died in 1700,
leaving a son atid heir, six years, and a daughter, two years old. In con-
sideration of his illustrious descent and the signal services rendered to the
Crown by his ancestors, Archibald, third Marquis, was created a Duke in 1703,

i6f

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

when he wa< yet a minor, and Eignalised his adherence to the Hanoverian
Goveniinent by enga^^ as a Volunteer at Sheriffinuir, 1715. This, however,
was almoct the only appearance he ever made in public An unfortunate and
fatal encounter with a distant kinsman of his mother, named Kerr, led to his
withdrawing to the Continent, and, aflcr remaining in hiding there for some
yean, he secretly returned — a morbid, melancholy misanthrope— to shut himself
up in gloomy seclusion nt Douglas Castle, seeing no one except a few greedy
interested dependents. His sister, Lady Jane, by this time grown up to be
a handsome accomplished woman, he systematically refused to see, and she was
more than once turned ignominiously away from the doors of the castle in which
she was bom. Disappointed in a matrimonial alliance with Francis, Earl of Dat-
kcilh, afterwards second Duke of Bucclcuch, Lady Jane rambled in an unsettled way
over the Continent for several years; but in August, 1746, when she had reached
the mature age of forty-eight, and was getting considered by society as a somewhat
fantastic and faded beauty, privately married Captain John Stewart, younger
brother of Sir George of Grandtully, the Captain at the time being a widower of
fifty-eight, with n grown-up son. The marriage took place in Edinburgh, and a few
days afterwards Lady Jane, accompanied by her companion, Mrs. Hewitt, and
two maids, again fict out for the Continent, where she was afterwards joined by
licr husband. In the spring of 17.58 the marriage, hitherto kept secret, was
communicated to several persons on account of Lady Jane's condition, which,
it was said, could no longer be concealed. The family party left Aix-la-Chapellc
for Paris, and, always in poverty, moved about from one obscure lodging lo
another till they landed at the house of one La Urunne, where, on the sirth
day aflcr her arrival, and when she was fifty years of age, Lady Jane gave birth,
or, atf the Hamilton party afterwards pleaded, was alleged to have given birth
to twins. Her recovery was certainly rapid, for nine days after her confinement
the lodgings were again changed to the Hotel d'Anjou. There may have been
no connection between the two circumstances, but the Hamilton executors
afterwards established in evidence that about the period in question two male

J

THE GREAT DOUGLAS CAUSE.

163

children, answering to the description of Lady Jane's, were stolen from their parentB
in Paris. One of the twins was strong and healthy, and accompanied Lady Jane
and the Captain to Rheims, where he was baptized in August, by the name of
Archibald. The other twin, being we.ik and sickly, was said to have been
left at nurse in the neighbourhood of Paris, under the charge of Pierre La Marre,
ihe accoQcher, who thought it necessary aa soon as he was born to baptize him
Sliolto, according to a form used in such cases by midwives in France, Both
the children were invariably acknowledged by Lady Jane and Captain Stewart
as theirs, and presented as such to all their friends. On returning to London
in December, 1749, the unfortunate couple became plunged in even deeper
poverty than before. The Duke, who had always behaved with great indifference
to his sister, now willidrew even the small pension he had hitherto allowed.
Mr. Stewart was overwhelmed with debt, prosecuted by his creditors and cast
into prison. He has been described as. a reckless, light-hearted "bon vivant,"
who had no objections to indulge his o\¥n selfish tastes at the expense of
the narrow means possible lo be scraped together by his self-denying wife.
As is shown by a correspondence carried on between them, and which it is
impossible lo read without compassion, Lady Jane in her shabby lodgings at
Chelsea was reduced to such straits as to sell her clothes and any trifUng
ornaments she possessed in order to buy bread for her children and supply
her imprisoned husband with pocket money. Among those who interested
themselves in her behalf were General the Earl of Crawford and Lindsay
and Lady Shaw, widow of Sir John Shaw, of Greenock. They failed to
mollify in any way the feelings of her brother the Duke, but obtained from
the Government of the day a small pension. Sbolto, the weaker twin, died
in May, 1753, the sorely-tried mother herself dying, November following, in
Edinburgh, Help for the family soon came from an unexpected quarter. To
the surprise of anybody who interested themselves in the affairs of Ihe recluse
at Douglas Castle, the Duke in March, 1758, married Miss Margaret Douglas
of Mains, Netded, it was given out, at some alight put upon her by the Duke,

TBE WEST COUNTRY IN mSTORY.

the new Dadicw becmie ;

I paituaji of tbe i

: of jrooBg AidiiaU I

Dongbs u heir of ha diQdleH hadnod. and, in coune of lime^ Maieriallf J
tided him ■itb meaiu to cif r j on his ezpauire axitesL The Dacbea^ i"<*ffi^ I
becanw only too keen in ber patronage of the friendles* boy. She ofleadedfl
the Dokc, sod a tcmporaiy tcpamioa took place. Horeitr, tbcy vera i

brod^t together again, and i

the

year 1755,

the Duke denied hii 1

cMate "to his own nearest bein whalerer,' vHhotU making any exception u
to I^ady Jane'* son. In 1760 the Duke cancelled certain deeds in ixntca of
the Hamilton lamily, and a stiort time before his death in July, 1761, be
entailed his whole estate in fa\-our of the hdrs of tbe body of bis (alher, and
executed at the same lime a deed setting forth that as his sister's (L^y Jane)
■on Archibald would be his heir, he appointed his Duchess, as veil as the
Duke of Queensberry and several other persona, to be his guardians. In 1739
the youth's reputed father, after years of pm-erty and misery in jail, succeeded
lo the family estate of Crandtully, and became Sir John Stewart He lived
about five years after, ami married a third wife, a daughter of Lord Elibank.
Sir John made a suiublc provision for his son by I^y jane Douglas, and in
1764, on the eve of death, made a solemn declaraiion that Ihe twins were the
children of his lawful wife. Lady Jane's companion, Mrs. Hewitt, made a
similar declaration.

Upon the dL-ath of the Duke of Douglas in Queensberry House, Edtnbuigh,
July, I76r, the guardians of Archibald Stewart (now Douglas) proceeded without
delay to vest him in the feudal right of his uncle's estates by getting him
served heir of entail and provision before a jury of competent witnesses. Being
a case of exceptional delioicy and importance, proof much fuller than usual
was entered upon, and the whole appeared so satisfactory that the jury served
Ardiiliald heir to llic Duke, or, in other words, found by their verdict, from
evidence documentary and oral, that Archibald Douglas was the son of Lady
Jane. Mr. Douglas soon after completed his title by a charter from the Cronn,
and thereupon entered formally into possession of the immense Douglas estates

■

TBE GREAT DOUGLAS CAUSE. 165

in Lanarkshire, Renfrewshire, and other counties. Unsatisfied with the verdict
of the jury, the guardians of the Duke of Hamilton resolved lo investigate the
matter thoroughly in Iiis interest, as also in that of his brother, Lord Douglas
Hamilton, as hcirs-male of tlie Duke of Douglas through their great-great-
grandfather, Lord Selkirk. An active guardian and a powerful agent was
found in the person of Andrew Stewart of Castlerailk and Torrance, the
accomplished historian of the Royal House of Stuart. His discoveries appeared
to himself and his colleagues to amount to nothing short of a proof that the
whole story of the pretended birth, as set forth in the service of Mr. Douglas,
W.1S an absolute fraud, and in December, 1 762, an action was raised in the Criminal
Department of the Parliament of Paris accusing Sir John Stewart and Mrs. Hewitt of
the crime di partus utpposilh, or procuring false children. (See "Torrance.") This
action was taken secretly against Sir John, and the witnesses bound over to give
evidence in Scotland; while the charge, being of a criminal nature, precluded him
from interfering in favour of his son. Tiie doubtful or weak points connected with
this puzziing case are so apparent that it is only necessary to mention briefly tlie
contentions of the pursuers — that Lady Jane was never confined at all, and, in
particular, that she was not confined in the house or in the presence of Madame
La Qrune, inasmuch as no such person e.xisted; and that there was imposture,
mystery, and concealment in the movements of all the principal parties in and
around Paris during the July of 174S. The discovery of the two stolen children
has already been mentioned. In due course the great "Douglas Cause" came
before the Court of Session, and on July 15, 1767, a decision was given in favour
of the Hamilton plea for "reducing the service" by the casting vote of Lord-
President Dundas. The voting stood: — For the Duke of Hamilton — James
Erskine, Lord Barjarg; Andrew Pringle, Lord Aleniare; James Veitch, Lord
EUiock; John Campbell, Lord Stonefield; Robert Bruce, Lord Kennet; Sir David
Dalrj-mplc, Lord Hailes; and Sir Thomas Miller of Glenlee, Lord Justice-Clerk —
seven in all, For Mr. Douglas — Alex. Frazer, Lord Strichen; Henry Home,
Lord Karnes; Alexander Boswell, Lord Auchinleck (father of Dr. Johnson's

i66

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

biend); George Brown, Lord Coalalon; James Fergusson, Lord Pitfour; Francis
Gardine, Lord Gardenslonci and Jaraes Burnett, Lord Monboddo — seven in all
Between July 7 and 14 each Judge spoke in the order of seniority. The inter-
locutor formally declaring the decision of the Court in favour of reduction was
dated 15th July. Among the lawyers engaged at one time or another in the case,
besides many elevated to the Bench during its progress, were — Andrew Crosbie,
the reputed original of Scott's "Counsellor Pleydell;" Alexander Wedderburn,
afterwards first Earl of Rosslyn and Lord Chancellor of England; Robert
Macqueen, afterwards Lord Bra<cfield ; and James Boswelf, friend of Johnson, a
contributor to the prolific literature of the case in the form of what he called
"The Essence of the Douglas Cause." Another busy writer of the time in favour
of Archibald Douglas was a distant north-country kinsman, Francis Douglas,
farmer and journalist, and afterwards rewarded with a life-rent of the Douglas farm
of Abbotsinch, near Paisley. Poj-ular sympathy running strongly in favour of
Mr. Douglas, several threatening letters were received by the Lord- President, to
which he simply drew the attention of the Court, but rewards for discovering the
authors of which were offered by each of the parties concerned in the suit.

On the failure of Mr, Douglas's case before the Court of Session in Scotland
there was an immediate appeal to the House of Lords, and two years afterwards
(February 27, 1769) a decision was pronounced in favour of Mr, Douglas which
secured him the estates as lineal heir of Duke Archibald. The decision was
received in Edinburgh with much rejoicing and some tumult. The counsel who
spoke before the Lords were, for the appellant (Douglas)— the Lord-Advocate and
Sir Fletcher Morton; for the respondents (Yarke) — Wedderburn and Dunning,
The Lord-Chancellor (Camden) and Chief-Justice Mansfield spoke with weighty
eloquence in favour of Mr. Douglas. A man of quiet, retired habits, and on
excellent landlord, he was raised to the peerage as Lord Douglas of Douglas,
1790, and died universally respected, December, 1827, His friend the Duchess
died at Bothwell Castle, October, 1774.

Lord Douglas married (i) in 1771 Lady Lucy Graham, sister of the Duke

A

t

MONTROSE FAMIL Y DESCENT AND POSSESSIONS.

167

of Montrose, by whom he had Archibald, who succeeded as second Lord Douglas,
and died unmarried January, 1844; and Charles, who also succeeded as third
Lord Douglas, and died September, 1848; also Jane-Margaret, Lady Montague;
(3) in 1J85, Lady Francis, sister of Henry, third Duke of Buccleuch, and had
with other sons and daughters, James, who of all the second family alone survived
to succeed to the honours of this ancient and distinguished family. The Rev,
James, fourth and last Lord Douglas, half-brother of two preceding Lords, and
eldest son by second marriage of Archibald, first Lord Douglas. Taking holy
orders, he became Rector of Marsh Gibbon, Buckinghamshire, 1819; Rector
of Broughton, Northamptonshire, 1825; succeeded his half-brother, Charles, as
fourth Lord Douglas, September, 184S; married, 1813, Wilhelmina, daughter of
the Hon. General James Murray, and died at Bothwell Castle without issue in
April, 1857, aged sixty. This was tlie last male descendant of the Douglases of
Douglasdale, the title becoming extinct, and the wide estates devolving on Jane-
Margaret, widow of the second Lord Montague, and on her death in 1858, on
her daughter, Lucy- Elizabeth, who, in 1831, married Alexander, tenth Earl of
Home, descended from the old Northumbrian line of Cospatrick, the parents of
Alexander, eleventh Earl, whose sudden death within his grounds of The Hlrsel,
Coldstream, in the summer of 1S81, was lamented by friends and. tenants.
The deceased Eatl was succeeded in the family honours by his eldest son, Charles
Alexander Douglas, Lord Dunglas, born in 1834, and educated at Eton and
Cambridge.

MONTROSE FAMILY DESCENT AND
POSSESSIONS.

Some misapprehension existing as to the position occupied by the present Duke,
or Hfth in the line of descent, the marriage of his Grace to a lady of
his own name (1876), piesenta a favourable opportunity for mentioning a

1 68

THE WEST COUl^TRY IN HISTORY.

few fads connected with a family not more distinguished for activity in public
affairs than the private merits of some of those who in modern times have
borne the honours of the ancient house of Montrose. Passing lightly over such
occurrences as may have happened withia the fabulous period of Scottish
history, extending from King Fugene in the fifth to Malcolm Canmore in
the elcveDth century, a firm fooling within a time of law and record is reached
in the reign of Bruce. In exchange for lacds in Cardross, ihe lands, it may
be presumed, where the great King ended his days, as described by Froissarl,
Sir David Graham of Kincardine obtained the properly of Old Montrose,
Forfar, and was succeeded by his son, another Sir David, made prisoner at
the battle of DuAam in 1346. A grandson. Sir Patrick of Dunduff and
Kincardine, was one of the hostages througli which the release of King
David II. was ultimately obtained. By his first wife, Matilda, Sir Patrick
had issue, among others, William, his successor; and by his second, Edgidia
Stewart of Ralston, he had Patrick, who became Earl of Stratheme In virtue
of his marriage with Euphamc, Countess Palatine. Dy his first wife, a
daughter of the house of Oliphant, Sir William Graham had a son, Alexander,
who predeceased his father, leaving Patrick to succeed to the honours of the
house; and by his second marriage with Lady Mary Stewart, daughter of
King Robert III. (who had been twice a widow before, and afterwards
married a fourth lime), there was issue among others two sons, founders of
branches famous in the history of the family. TJie eldest, Robert, was
ancestor of the Grahams of Fintry and Claverhouse; the latter, in the person
of James, created Viscount Dundee in 1688, about a year before his death
on the field of Killiecrankie. A younger brother, William, founded the
house of Garvock, from which descended in due course Sir Thomas Graham,
Lord Lyndoch, the renowned hero of Barossa. Patrick Graham of Kincardine,
above referred to, one of the Lords of the Regency during the minority of
James II., was elevated to the dignity of a Lord of Parliament, with the title
of Lord Graham, in 1445. Patrick left William, who, by his marriage with

'■■1

MONTROSE FAMILY DESCENT AND POSSESSIONS.

169

Lady Anne Douijhs, daughter of the Earl of Angus, left another William,
third Lord Graham and first Earl of Montrose. The additional honour was
conferred for gallantry shown on the field of Sauchieburn, where hia Royal master,
James III., lost his life; and, in fitting harmony witli the loyal traditions of
his house, Earl William fell at Flodden with King James IV. and the flower
of the Scottish nobility. He was twice married — first to Annabella, daughter
of Lord Drummond, by whom he bad William, the second Earl in succession ;
and second, to Janel, daughter of Sir Archibald Edmonstone, by whom be
had Patrick, ancestor of the Graham of Inchbraikie. From Mungo, youngest
son of William, second Earl, descended the house of Killeom. John, third
Earl, posthumous son of Lord Graham, who fell at Pinkie in 1547, was first
Chancellor and then Viceroy of the Kingdom of Scotland. His son John,
fourth Earl, was appointed President of the Council in i6z6, but dying the
same year was succeeded by James, the only son of his wife, Lady Margaret
Ruthven, eldest daughter of William, first Earl of Gowrie,

The career of this James, fifth Earl and first Marquis, known in history
as the great Marquis of Montrose, falls rather within the history of Scotland
than the annals of a single family, even though it be as illustrious as the
house of Graham. A very few sentences, therefore, must serve to indicate
the part he look in the affairs of the nation during what was probably the
most troubled period of its history. Coldly received, as he imagined, at the
Court of Charles L, Earl James, afterwards Marquis, threw himself with
characteristic ardour into the cause of the Covenanting party, and in company
with Argyll assisted to keep in check movements made by the more active
Royalists in the north. In thia ivay he came to be mixed up with the attack
on the house of Ogilvic, famous in song as "The Bonnie House of Airlie,"
and referred to by the "great Argyll" himself in presence of the hte Duke
of Montrose so late as 1864, the occasion being a dinner at Stirling in
connection with the Highland and Agricultural Society's show. "You mil go
(so ran the instructions of Argyll to one Dugald, witii so many hundred men)

170

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

B Edi

into the country of my Lord Ogilvie, and you will lift his cattle, and you will
drive them to Straanmare; and you will proceed to the house of my Lord
Ogilvie, and you will destroy the said house, and you will pull down the
yells and windows, and gin it be langsome ye will fire the house." CasUe
Campbell suffered for this in after days. Suspicious of the sincerity of the
Covenanting party, annoyed it has been said at their excesses, and anxious it
may be concerning the ultimate fate of Monarchy in the strife, Montrose, after
a second audience of the King, passed over to the Royalist party about the
close of 1639. "Division (writes Principal Bailiic in October of thai year)
is much laboured for in all our estate. They speak of great prevailing with
our nobles— Home evidently fallen off, Montrose not unlikely to be ensnared
with fair promises of advancement." During a lull in the military operations
of 1640 there was offered for signature to Montrose a new covenant or bond,
suggesting that Argyll should be named Captain-General, with arbitrary powers
north of the Forth. Stung at the proposal, the Marquis suddenly quitted his
division of Alexander Leslie's army on Dunse Moor, and took horse for
Cumbernauld, the house of the Earl of Wigtown, where he met Home, Atholc,
Mar, and other friends. A new bond was then drawn out, acknowledging
obligation to the covenant already signed, but stipulating for their mutual aid and
defence in case of need. For five years Montrose continued to be the most promi-
nent and successful leader on the Kiny's side. In six well-disputed conflicts against
superior armies — at Tippermuir, Bridge of Dee, Castle of Fyvie, Inveriochy,
Aulderne, and Alford — the gallantry and military genius of the great Marquis
prevailed. "Tell," it has been written, "those traitors of proud London town that
the spears of the North have encircled the Crown." But for Naseby all might
have gone well with the King. At Kilsyth, the last and crowning victory, Montrose
appeared to be master of all Scotland. His troops, according to Earl Stanhope,
spread over the low country like a torrent, and only sucli castled crags as
Edinburgh, Stirling, and Dumbarton could lift themselves above the general
inundation. Argyll and the other leaders of the Covenant fled for safety to

H

MONTROSE FAMILY DESCENT AND POSSESSIONS.

Berwick. Montrose himself entered Glasgow in triumph, while young Napier,
pushing forward to Linlithgow and Edinburgh, had the delight of freeing from
captivity his father, wife, sisters, and uncle, Stirling of Keir. John Lord Graham,
only surviving son of the Marquis, was still held a prisoner by the chiefs of the
Covenant. After these brilliant victories, Montrose was surprised and defeated
in September, 1645, by General David Leslie. Detention at Oxford appearing
irksome to the King, he adopted the foolish plan of entrusting his person to
the Scots army at Newark, then negotiating with ilie leaders of the English
Parliament for their arrears ot pay. The Scots in turn delivered their Sovereign
up to his English adversaries at Newcastle. Royal instructions were thereafter
issued that Montrose should lay down his arms and leave Scotland. * He was
absent about two years. On the execution of the King, in 1649, ^^^ Marquis
tendered his allegiance to Charles II., and took an early opportunity of presenting
himself in the midst of the exiled Court at The Hague. There is still extant in
the chatter-chest at Buchanan House Montrose's key for secret correspondence
with friends at home at this time. The Earl of Roxburghe, whom the Marquis
suspected of double-dealing with David Leslie, is designated "The Fox;" David
Leslie himself is "The Executioner," from his cruelties after the day of Philiphaugh;
the Marquis of Huntly is " The Moor Game," from hia having lurked so long
in the northern hills; Argyll is "Ruling Elder," and sometimes "The Merchant
of Middleburgii." In an unfortunate attempt to draw the Highlanders once
more to the Royal standard during the spring of 1650, Montrose was taken
prisoner by MacLeod of Assynt, and conveyed under secure guard to Edinburgh.
Exposed to many insults by the way, it was only when he reached Dundee
— where great suffering was yet felt from his army— that clothing and other
necessaries suited to his rank were provided. At Edinburgh the Covenanting
magistrates received him in mock solemnity, and with all the indignity which
triumphant malice might be supposed to suggest, conveyed him from the Water-
gate to the Tolbooth,

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

" By soriy slceds in urvile cart
A high'backcd cbair Is borne—
The sitter he has turned liU Toce —
\i\\'j start yaa, young Lord Lornc ?

"Good Eoolh in yon poor captive dies
The dreadcst of your foes ;
Dut chained and tied to hangman':, cart
Ye dire not meet Monlrosc ! "

From ihe Tolbootli Montrose was taken on Monday to the Parliament House,
and there, "in the place of delinquents, on his knees, received sentence to be
hanged on a gibbet at the Cross of Edinburgh, with his book and Declaration tied
on a rope about his neck, there to hang for the space of three hours until he be
dead ; and thereafter to be cut down by the hangman, his head, iiands, and legs to
be cut off and dislribuled as follows ;— viz., his head to be aflixed on an iron pin,
and set on the pinnacle of the west gavel of the new prison of Edinburgh ; one
hand to be set on the port of Perth, the other on the port of Stirling ; one leg and
foot on the port of Aberdeen, the other on the port of Glasgow. If at his death
penitent, and relaxed from excommunication, then the trunk of his body to be
interred by pioneers in the Greyfriars : otherwise, to be interred in the borough-
moor, by the hangman's men under the gallows." The sentence was carried out
in all its revolting details, the head remaining for ten j^cars a ghastly spectacle on
the top of the Tolbooth. By the adventurous spirit of Ixidy Napier the heart was
recovered, embalmed in the most costly manner, and was last heard of in India.
Thus died James, first Marquis of Montrose, a nobleman described as tlie only
person in modern limes who recalled the heroes described by Plutarch. This
was said by Cardinal de Retz, and he knew Turenne and Conde. Being an only
son, he appears to have married early, as he had by his wife Margaret Carnegie,
daughter of the Earl of Southesk, two sons when twenty-one years of age.

James, second Marquis, recovered the family estates on the Restoration of

MONTROSE FAMILY DESCENT AND POSSESSIONS.

173

Cbarles II., and was made a Privy Councillor. By his wife, Isabel, daughter of
William, second Earl of Morton, and widow of Robert, first Earl of Roxburghe,
he had a son, James, who succeeded as third Marquis of Montrose, and married
Christian, daughter of John, Duke of Rolhes. Their son, James, fourth Marquis,
filled the office of Lord -President of the Council previous to the Union, and on
the accession of George I. was appointed one of His Majesty's principal Secretaries
of State. He was installed as Knight of the Garter in 1706, and on 24th April,
1707, created Duke of Montrose. By his wife. Christian, daughter of the Earl of
Northesk, he had David created a Peer of Great Britian, with the title Earl Graham
of Belford, Northumberlant', but who died unmarried during the lifetime of his
father; William, who succeeded as second Duke, and George, a Captain in the
Royal Navy, who died unmarried, 1747. Duke William married Lucy, daughter
of second Duke of Rutland, and had issue, James, who succeeded, and Lucy,
married to Archibald, Lord Douglas. James, third Duke, married first Jemima-
Elizabeth, daughter of Earl Ashburnham, by whom he had an only son who died
in infancy, and second Caroline- Maria, daughter of fourth Duke of Manchester,
by whom he had issue :— James, who succeeded; Montague William, M.P.,
Captain in the Coldstream Guards; Ceorgiana-Charlotte Caroline Lucy, married
Edward Earl Powis, with issue; and Emily, married to E. T. Foley, Hereford.
James, third Duke of Montrose, was a K,G., Lord-Justice General of Scotland,
and Chancellor of the University of Glasgow. He died 30th December, 1836, and
was succeeded by his elder son, James, the late Duke. Born i6th July, 1790, he
married, 15th October, 1836, Caroline Agnes, youngest daughter of John, second
Lord Decies, and had issue, James, Marquis of Graham, born 7th Feb., 1845, died
31st January, 1846; James, also Marquis of Graham, Lieutenant First Life Guards,
born aand June, 1847, dii;d unmarried, 3rd April, 1S72; Douglas Beresford Malise
Ronald, present Duke, bom 7lh November, 1852; Agnes Caroline, married,
1859, LicuL-Col. Murray Polmaise; Beat rice- Violet, married, 1863, Algernon W.
F. Greville, son of Lord Greville, with issue; and Alma-Carlotta, married,
1873, to Earl of Breadalbane. The late Duke succeeded his father as

\

>74

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HTSTORY.

Chancellor of Glasgow University, and was made a K.T. He acted as a
Commissioner of the Board of Control from Februarj', i8a8, to December, 1830;
Lord Steward of Her Majesty's Household, from February to December, 1852;
Chancellor of the Duchy of Lancaster, from Feb., 1858, to June, 1859; and
Postmaater-General in Earl Derby's second Ministry, 1858, and again 1866-68.
Some incidents, arising out of liis famous contest with the Earl of Crawford and
Balcarres, concerning the Dukedom of Montrose, may be more appropriately
mentioned in another page. The late Duke was known to be a considerate
yet improving landlord, courteous and easy of access with all whom his varied
relations brought him into contact, and his death, 30th December, 1874, was
regretted all the more that a little over two years previously he had the affliction
to see his son and heir, then a young man of high promise, laid before him in the
burying place of his house. The present Duke married Violet Hermoine,
daughter of Sir Frederick Ulric Graham, of Netherby, by Lady Jane Hermoine
Sl Maur, eldest daughter of Edward Adolphus, Duke of Somerset, K.G, The
father of the present Baronet of Netherby, the second in descent, was Sir James
Graham, the eminent statesman and Cabinet minister, and his mother Fanny,
daughter of Colonel Callander, Craigforth,

The lands of the Montrose family lie principally within the counties of
Stirling and the adjacent borders of the neighbouring counties, Dumbarton and
Lanark. The lands of Buchanan parish surrounding the family mansion were
purchased from the trustees of the last Buchanan of that Ilk in i68z, and the
lands of the Dukedom and Regality of Lennox from Charles Duke of Lennox and
Richmond in 1702. Among other Lochlomond islands now included within these
lands are Inchmurren and Inchcalleocb. The former, now used as the Montrose
deer park, is full of historical associatior\s connected with the Lennox family, here
being the old stronghold of the house to which the Duchess Isabella repaired to
spend the close of her days in acts of piety and munificence, after the cruel wrath
of James I. bad sent her father with her husband and two sons to the
at Stirling. In this lonely retreat the Duchess lived long enough to

le scaffold J

hear the J

MONTROSE FAMIL Y DESCENT AND POSSESSIONS.

175

1

dreadful fate of a king who had cut her ofT from all living kindred. It was to her
piety and munificence Dumbarton was indebted for its old Collegiate Church,
of which only a solitary arch now remains, and among the last of her kind deeds
was the gift of certain lands in Kilmaronock parish to tlie Preaching Friars of
Glasgow to secure prayers for the welfare of her soul and the souls of her kindred.
This island was repeatedly visited by James VI. for hunting purposes. " These
ate to give you notice (it was written on one occasion) that His Majesty has
concluded to dine at Inchmurrcn, where his dinner shall be sent, and there are
tents to be provided for that eDect, and you must expect a good number of sharp
stomachs." Inchcalleoch, or " Old Woman's Isle," was the site of the parish
church, and in an adjoining graveyard lie the remains of several members of
the cl.in Grcgor:

" And answering Lomond's breezes deep,
Soothe many a chieftain's endless sleep."

As is shown by a report of the Historical Commission, the Lennox papers at
Buchanan House are numerous and curious, one among others of extreme interest
being a grant by King Robert Bruce to Malcolm, Earl of Lennox, of a right of
girth or sanctuary for three miles round the Church of Luss, in honour of the blessed
Saint Kessog. Other lands of the Montrose family are situated within the parish
of Strathblanc, where they had as a residence the old Caslle of Mugdock, from
which many Lennox and Graham charters are dated. On the forfeiture of the great
Marquis, in 1644, Mugdock barony fell in the way of compensation to Archibald,
Earl of Argyll, but it was restored to the Graham family in 1656. Mugdock appears
to have been their first residence in the west, after disposing of the original
Kincardine property. From an inventory of "stufle," preserved at Buchanan
House, the removal would appear to have taken place in 1666. Arras hangings
are described as being brought from Kincardine, and other furnishings from
Angus and Strathera. At Catler, now the factor's seat, are the remains of a

176

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

moothill or seat of judgment. Donald, sixth Earl of Lennox, in granting 3 diarter
to Maurice of tlie lands of Buchanan, allowed him the privilege of holding courts
of life and limb iviihin hia terriiory, only on the condition, however, that everyone
sentenced to death should be executed on the Karl's own gallows at Calter. In
the return of owners of lands and heritages (Scotland) the area of such of the
Montrose estates as are refi^rred to above is set down:— Buchanan House, Drj-mcn,
2,588 acres; Stirlingshire, 68,878 acres. It lias been found that figures in this
return are liable lo correction.

In immediate connection with the descent of Montrose honours, it may be
judged appropriale to mention a few details regarding a famous contest for the
honour of a title borne by some of the most illustrious statesmen and soldiers who
have figured in the stormy scenes of Scottish history. Rather less than thirty
years since, and after a contest in which various members of the "lichtaome
Lindsay" family were concerned, the House of Lords confirmed the Earldom of
Crawford to James Lindsay, Eari of Balcnrres, afterwards known as the Earl of
Crawford and Balcarres. Following up this success, and Iiavingatthe same time
a certain relation to well-known incidents in the history of the Crawford family,
the Earl, in February 1850, presented a petition to Her Majesty claiming the
Dukedom of Montrose conferred upon his predecessor David, fifth Earl of
Crawford, by James III. in 1488. This petition was as usual referred to the
House of Lords, and a " Case " containing the evidence with arguments founded
upon it in support of the claim came in due course to be laid on the table.
The Earl, known throughout the subsequent proceedings generally as the
Claimant (the Duke being the Petitioner in opposition) affirmed in the first
instance— (r) That the patent of the Dukedom of Montrose, iSth May, 1488,
Btill subsisted, and was valid and effectual in law; (2) That the limitation lo
"heirs"— a temi, he held, of confessed flexibihty in Scottish law and practice,
denoted and signified "heirs-male;" and (3) That he, the Claimant, was heir-
male of the first grantee. The reader will observe that the title only was claimed.
James, late Duke of Montrose, thereupon presented a counter petition, praying that

^

MONTROSE PEERAGE CONTEST. 177

lie might be heard before the Committee of Privileges, through counsel or agents,
that he might have liberty to submit a Case on his own behalf; and in order to
permit himself and all other peers interested to make the necessary investigations,
that all proceedings in the claim be stayed till (he following session of Parliament.
The claim, it was urged, if successful, though it did not challenge the honours and
dignities enjoyed by the noble petitioner, would manifestly be a matter of incon-
venience and injustice to him in different ways, and would at the same time alter
the whole rights of precedency of that order of the peerage in Scotland to which
the petitioner belonged. During the recess the claimant discovered what be called
new evidence, proving the Dukedom of Montrose, which he claimed, to be entirely
different in style, designation, and derivation from that held by the noble petitioner,
and precluding him, it was urged, from being admitted as a party in the case.
On this crucial point the claimant contended (i) That the Dukedom of Montrose
conferred in 14S8 was derii'cd exclusively from the royal burgh of Montrose,
created and incorporated by the patent into a Dukedom with free regality in favour
of David, Earl of Crawford, and his heirs, who thereupon added to their escutcheon
a single red rose, the arms of the burgh, to denote derivation oi the honours.
But he contended (a), That the Graham Earldom, Marquisate, and Dukedom
were derived, not from the royal burgh of Montrose, but from the private estate
of the family called "Auld" or Old Montrose, some miles from the burgh, with
which it had no connection whatever, and was held by quite a different tenure.
James IV., it was yet urged, by charter 3rd March, 1514, created and incorporated
the "terras de Aid Montross," solely "in liberam baroniam et comitatum
pcrpetuis futuris temporibus baroniam et comitatum de Montross nuncupandum."
This, urged the claimant, was the original written constitution of the title of Earl
of Montrose, in the family of Graham, and it was exclusively founded upon at the
ranking of the nobility in 1606, by John, Earl of Montrose, direct male descendant
and representative of the grantee, in order to prove the antiquity of his earidom.
Moreover, William, the original grantee, is expressly styled in two public deeds
executed by the burgh of Montrose as "William, Earll of Aid Montross;" and

178

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

I*»fy (3)1 That ihc grants and patents of the Marquisate and Dukedom of
MoDtrose in the Grahams are mere repetitions or elevations of the original or
comital fief (as it stood) into the higher titles or designations of Marquis and Duke
of Montrose. The charter or patent the claimant held, obtained by Earl David
from James HI. in May, 1488, elevated the Earldom of Crawford into the
hereditary Dukedom of Montrose, and conveyed other subjects to be held "in
libera regaliute" under a general limitation to himself "et heiedibus suis." The
King was then in arms against a rebellion of the barons headed by his eldest son,
afterwards James IV., and the advance in honour was understood to be in acknow-
ledgment of a force of eight thousand horse and foot brought by the Duke and bis
family in support of the Royal standard No charter of the Dukedom was extant,
but there was an entry in the Register of the Great Seal of a charter of the date
referred to. In June following, the King was slain at Sauchiebum, or "The
Field of Stirling," as it was sometimes called, and on the coronation of his successor
a proclamation was issued annulling all recent grants made by ihe late King to his
adherents. In October of the same year (148S) Parliament passed an Act known
as the Act Rescissory, annulling all alienations of lands and creations of new
dignities granted since the preceding February by the late King, which might be
prejudicial to the young King, because, in the judgment of Parliament, such
alienations, gills, and privileges were granted in aid of perverse counsels, and
contrary to the good of the realm as causing the slaughter of the King's father.
The Earl of Crawford was removed from certain high ofiices, yet allowed to
retain his estates, and ultimately, as the petitioner admitted, was so far restored to
royal favour as to obtain a renewed grant of the honour of the Dukedom of
Montrose— for life only — "pro toto tempore vitas sua;" — with the burgh of
Montrose, its rents and customs, and the lordship and castle of Kinclevin. The
original charter was not extant, but the Act of Parliament and Register of the
Great Seal were held to prove its terms with sufficient accuracy. The late Duke of
Montrose, therefore, as petitioner against the claim, undertook in his first case to
establish two fundamental propositions: That the charter of 1488 did not subsist,

MONTROSE PEERAGE CONTEST. 179

or iras not valid in law; and that even if it could be held as subsisting, the claimant
was not the heir under the limitations of the patent In seeking to establish the
first point, the petitioner contended — (i), That there was reason for doubting whether
the charter of May, 1488, was ever completed; (2), that if ever effectual it was
annulled by the Act Rescissory; (3), that David, Earl of Crawford, was not re-
cognised as Duke of Montrose until after a new grant in Parliament and relative
patent of Dukedom ; (4), that the Act Rescissory was not inoperative, as the
claimant held, and in particular that it cut down the charter of the Dukedom of
Montrose of 1488; (5), that the same Act was effectual in annulling the Earldom of
Glencaim, an honour granted in similar circumstances; (6), that the Act was
effectual against other grants; (7), that a statute alleged to have revoked the Act
was not intended to affect it; (8), that the new patent for life was the only valid
creation; and (9), that the other proofs of the Dukedom being a grant for life only
are corroborated by the fact that the Duke's son and subsequent heirs never
assumed the title nor asserted any claim to it, or the possessions which accom-
panied the honour. The Duke's son, John, it was said, was a prosperous person,
and married to a daughter of Home, the Chamberlain, among the most influential
Scotsmen of his age. He was employed in many offices of trust, and on good
terms with James IV., whose side he had taken in the struggle against his father.
To this the claimant answered Chat Earl John was all his life in a situation
encouraging the Government to tyrannise over and oppress him. Independently
of prodigality and recklessness, he had murdered his elder brother, Alexander,
Master of Crawford, whereby the succession opened up to him, and the legal
consequences of the crime hung suspended over his head till his death on the
Field of Floddcn. Da\id Edzell, ninth Earl of Crawford, restored the honour and
estates to the son of the "Wicked Master;" but from his time the family retrograded
till their fortunes were shipwrecked in the person of David, the twelfth or
" Prodigal Earl," confined in Edinburgh Castle so long as to obtain for him the
title of the " Comes Incarceratus." Succeeding Earls again were soldiers of fortune
in Spain, Flanders, and Germany. The question of "heirs" hercdibm suU, gave

i8o THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

rise to a lengthy and intricate ailment on the law of Scotland touching the descent
of dignities, but which it would be difficult to malte interesting to ordinary
readers. The claimant contended that the words carried the honours to him — a
collateral heir-male, descended from the uncle of the pitentee; while the
petirioner held on the other hand that for anything submitted heirs of the body of
the patentee might still exist, and in particular that the practice of describing
" heirs" only as " heirs-male," and not as " heirs general," by which the succession
opened up to females, was confined almost exclusively to the family of Crawford.
So far as concerned the confusion likely to arise from the use of similar titles,
though even this was not without precedent, the claimant expressed his intention,
in the event of the claim being admitted, to continue the title of " Crawford," borne
by his predecessors for 700 years, and thereby avoiding even the appearance of
inlringing " upon a title consecrated by history to the gallant race represented by
the noble petitioner," This was put aside by the latter, who also insisted upon
the connection of his family not only with the lands of Old Montrose, but with
the Burgh of Montrose. The case carae before the Committee of Privileges,
14th April, i8gi, on which day the Duke of Montrose was permitted to appear in
opposition. Mr, Rolt, Mr. Hope Scott, and Mr. Cosmo Innes appeared for His
Grace as petitioner; Sir Fitzroy Kelly, Mr. Bethell, and Mr. Wortlej-, with Mr.
Riddell, appeared for the Earl of Crawford and Balcaries as claimant. Tiie
Attorney-General and Solicitor-General watched the case for the Crown.
Arguments on the merits were heard between iSlh and 33rd July, 1853,
Documentary evidence— consisting of charters, precepts, sasines, and accounts —
was also submitted during the month, the documents being for the most part
spoken to by Mr. G. Melville, writer, Edinburgh, and Mr. W. Eraser, Register
House. Sir Fitzroy Kelly was heard two days at the close in reply for the
claimant. On slh August, with Lord Redesdalc, as usual, in the chair, the
committee came to the resolution, "that the charter bearing date i8th May, 1488,
by which James HI. of Scotland granted the Dukedom of Montrose to David,
Earl of Crawford, et heredibus sui's, was annulled and made void by the Act of

CUMBERNAULD HOUSE AND THE FLEMINGS. i8i

the first year of the reign of King James IV. of Scotland, called the Act
Rescissory; that the grant of the Dukedom made by King James IV- to the
said David, Earl of Crawford, in 1489, was a grant for the term of his life only;
and that ihc petitioner (claimant), James, Earl of Crawford and Balcarres, has not
established any title to the Dukedom of Montrose created in 1488," This resolu-
tion was re(}orted in due form to the House, and ao the ingenious claim fell to the
ground. The then Earl of Crawford and Balcarres was succeeded December,
1669, by his son, Alexander William Crawford, Lord Lindsay, eighth and
late Earl, the accomplished author of " Lives of the Lindsays," and of the
"History of Christian Art," The Duke of Montrose died 30th Dec, 1874,
and was succeeded by his only surviving son, Douglas-Beresford-Malise-Ronald
Graham, the fifth and present duke, bom November, 1852, Lieutenant sth
Lancers. The Montrose Dukedom dates from 1707, the Marquisate from 1684,
and the Earldom from 1504. The knightage goes back to the earliest period of
our national history. Other titles carried by the present Duke are — Marquis of
Graham and Buchanan, Earl and Marquis of Montrose, Earl ol Kincardine,
Viscount Dundaff, Lord Graham, Aberuthven, Mugdock, and Fintry, in the
peerage of Scotland; Earl and Baron Graham, of Bclford, Northumberland, in the
peerage of Great Britain.

CUMBERNAULD HOUSE AND THE FLEMINGS.

Built in 1731, and occupied for only ajshort period by chiefs of the Fleming
family, the mansion destroyed in March, 1877, came to be associated in an
indirect way with many stirring events — national as well as domestic— in the
history of a once powerful house. Originally from the Low Countries, Baldwin,
the first recorded Fleming, appears as settled at Biggar in the reign of William

iBa

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

I

the Lion, while a Sir Malcolm of the name was appointed Sheriff of Dumbarton
in the reign of Alexander III. The family came strongly to the front as
adherents of Bruce in the early struggles for national independence, and rose
in a great measure on the ruin of Bruce's powerful rival, Comyn of Buchan.
The Sir Malcolm of the day is said to have witnessed the slaughter of the
Red Comyn at the altar of the Minorite Friars, Dumfries, and to have so
thoroughly identified himself with the cause as to follow Bruce in his flight to
Glasgow, and witness the absolution in the Cathedral, while the blood of his
rival was scarcely dry upon the dagger. Even earlier than this the Coniyns
of Cumbernauld had smarted under the resentment of Bruce's party. Bishop
Robert Wischart, ghostly confessor to the young patriot, begged timber for
the spire of our Cathedral from Edward I., then ruling in Scotland as Overlord,
and received forty oaks from Darnaway, sixty from Ettrick, and twenty stags
for his own table. But, as Dr. J. Robertson shows, the spire of St, Kentigem
was not yet to be buitt. The faithless prelate had scarcely digested the last
of King Edward's venison before he turned the oaks into catapults and man-
gonels, and with them laid siege to the garrison which kept the Comyn's Castle
of Kirkintilloch. The barony of Kirkintilloch, known in later times as the
Lenzies, and including all the lands of Cumbernauld, passed from Bruce's
opponent to Bruce's friend, King Robert granting a charter conveying to
Malcolm Fleming that barony formerly held by John Comyn. This Malcolm
was also created Earl of Wigtown; but in 1371 this title passed by a formal
deed to Archibald, Earl of Galloway, a branch of the Royal Family of Scotland.
The title was, however, revived in later days in favour of the Flemings of
Cumbernauld. A second Sir Malcolm, son of the above, was present at the
disastrous battle of Halidon Hill, igtb July, 1333. Making a skilful retreat
from the fatal field, Sir Malcolm secured the person of the young Prince
Uavid, with his consort Joanna, and hurrying with them to Dumbarton Castle,
of which he was governor, fortified the place against all attack. From this
fortress the young couple were removed in safety to France, where they remained

A

CUMBERNAULD HOUSE AND THE FLEMINGS.

183

between seven and eight years. A descendant, Sir David, of Cumbernauld,
distinguished himself at the battle of Otterburn, and was one of a Commission
appointed to treat for peace with England in 1405. Having seen Prince
James, son of Robert III., set sail on what was uodeistood lo be a voyage
to France for liberty, but which turned out in reality a long captivity in
England, Sir David was murdered on returning by Douglas of Balveny, at
Hermandstonc, near Edinburgh, and buried in the chapel of Holyrood. The
Cumbernauld family appear lo have been ennobled about 1460, Robert Lord
Fleming appearing in the records of Parliament, 1466. As a diplomatist in
the stormy time which succeeded the death of James IV,, few sustained a
more conspicuous part than John Lord Fleming of Cumbernauld. In the
spring of 1520 he was appointed ambassador to the Court of France to secure
the return of Albany to Scotland as Regent, and to accomplish, if possible, the
still more delicate task of undermining the friendly sentiments which it was
thought Francis I. then entert^ned for Henry VIII., and with whom he had
afterwards a romantic interview on the "Field of the Cloth of Gold." A
daughter, Mary Fleming, who became the wife of Maitland of Lethington,
was said to have been in her youth one of the Queen's celebrated "Four
Marys,' although one version of the popular ballad describes the enticing group
as made up from the families of Hamilton, "May HamUton," Seaton, Beaton,
and Carmichael. In 1526 James V. ratified and approved "a charter of new
infeftment maid to Malcolm Lord Fleming, making the touns of Biggar and
Keikentulloch burghis of barony, with the mercat dais, in all punctis " as
other burghs of barony. Soon after the imprisonment of Queen Mary in
Lochleven, a party professing adherence to her cause, and known as the
" Queen's Lords," finding themselves removed from all ofiBces of importance
under the new Government, betook themselves to the Castle of Dumbarton,
then held by Lord Fleming, zealous in the Queen's support, and there entered
into a bond to release and protect their captive sovereign, and, if possible,
bring to punishment the murderers of her husband. King Henry, Lord Damley.

i84

THE WEST COUNTR Y IN HISTOR Y.

After the defeat at Langside, and when the unfDrtunate Queen had so far
carried out the doubtful scheme of submitting her case to her sister of
England, Mary writes to Eiiiabeth regarding Lord Fleming of Cumbernauld : —
"As for my Lord Fleming, seeing that upon my credit you have suffered
him to go home to his house, I warrant you he shall pass no further, but shall
return when it pleases you. But for Dumbarton I answer not when ray Lord
Fleming shall be in the Tower, For they which are within it, will rot forbear
to receive succour if I don't assure them of yours; no, though you should
charge mc withal, for I have left them in chaise, to have more respect unto
my servants and to my estate than to my life." The coniidence reposed by
the Queen in Lord Fleming is further brought out during an interview, when
it was proposed to remove her from Carlisle to Bolton Castle, this being the
first decisive step taken by the English Court to dispose of her person against
her will. " I require " (said the fugitive Queen in anger), " I require the Queen,
my good sister, either that she will let me go into France, or that she will put
me into Dumbarlon, unless she will hold me as a prisoner, for I am sure that
her Highness will not of her honour put me into my Lord of Murray's hands."
Straitly besieged by the Regent Lennox, Fleming ventured to bring under
notice of the Queen's Commissioners the persecution he was being subjected
to, and the destruction to which his private property was exposed. Among
other enormities perpetrated by Lennox, particular stress is laid upon the
slaughter of the white kye in the forest of Cumbernauld "as the lyke was
not manteint in ony uther pairt of this He of Albion." When the Castle oF
Dumbarton was surprised by the intrepid daring of Crawford of Jordanhill,
Lord Fleming made his escape to the Clyde, and afterwards got on board a
vessel proceeding to France. Lady Fleming was captured, but dismissed with
many marks of the Regent's favour, Hamilton, Bishop of St. Andrews, deeply
implicated in the murder of Damley, was taken to Stirling and executed. During
the civil war the Cumbernauld family threw in theii lot with the King and
served loyally under Montrose. It was in the old Castle of Cumbernauld

^

i

CUMBERNAULD HOUSE AND THE FLEMINGS.

i8s

that Montrose and his party in August, 1640, entered into that bond which
first brought them into direct hostility with the Covenanting party they had
up to that time supported. In September, 1650, the Committee of Estates,
considering the Castle of Cumbernauld to be a place of great importance,
ordered it to be victualled and garrisoned. Sir William Fleming, then with
Charles II. at Breda, was, as appears from the Wigtown family papers,
despatched on a special mission to Scotland, the King's instructions being of
ibis tenor: — "In case my friends in Scotland do not think lit that Montrose
lay down arms, then as many as can may repair to him. You shall see if
Montrose have a considerable number of men ; and if be have you must use
your best endeavours to get them not to be disbanded; but if he be weak
then he should disband, for it will do me more harm for a small body to keep
together ihan it can do me good." Some days before the dale of the "instruc-
tions " Montrose h.nd fallen into the hands of his enemies, and Fleming arrived
in Edinburgh only to learn that the Marquis had terminated his career on the
gallows. The old castle, it may be remarked, after being deserted by the
Cumbernauld family in favour of the spacious new mansion, was set fire to
by a party of Highlanders during the rebellion of 1745 and burned to the
ground. The parish of Cumbernauld was detached from Kirkintilloch about
1649. The first minister, Thomas Stewart, was ejected for n on -conformity in
1661, and his successor, Gilbert Muschett, seems to have been much troubled
by the predilection his parishioners manifested for conventicles. Even after
the Revolution had transformed the Episcopalian rebel into a Presbyterian
Dissenter, the spirit of hostility continued as strong and active as ever. Thus,
in July, 1688, after denouncing twelve persons as fugitives, the parish clergyman
thought proper to enter in the seasion-book that "the meeting-house preacher
is ane rebell, and not pardonded ; excommunicate, and not relaxed ; and ane
slander and leising-making, alienating the hearts of His Majesty's subjects by
not keeping the three late thanksgivings." The ancient dignity of the family,
it may be mentioned, was revived in 1606 by James VI., John Lord Fleming,

t86

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY,

successor of ihe Governor of Dumbarton Castle, being then created Earl of
Wigtown and Lord Fleming of Biggar and Cumbernauld. John, sixth Earl,
following the loyal traditions of his house, passed with James II. to St Germains
at the Re\'olution, but returned to Scotland and took an active part in opposi-
tion to the Union negotiations. Suspected of complicity in Jacobite plots, he
was committed prisoner to Edinburgh Castle in 1715, but was afterwards
liberated by order of the High Court of Justiciary, and took up his residence
at Cumbernauld, where, in 1731, he erected the Hne mansion — the destruc-
tion of which in 1877 was so much regretted. Earl John died in 1744,
and was succeeded in his titles and estates by a brother Charles, who died
unmarried 26th May, 1747. The estates thereupon devolved on 8 niece, only
daughter of Earl John, the Lady Clementina Fleming, who in 1735 had married
Charles, afterwards tenth Lord Eiphinstone. One or two of the descendants
of Lady Clementina merit special notice. Her eldest son, John, succeeded to
the Eiphinstone honours; Charles, R.N., was lost in the "Prince George," burnt
at sea in 1758 when proceeding to the Mediterranean, the loss by this calamity
being 485 out of a total of 745 on board Admiral Broderick's war-ship; a third
son, William, had a son, Charles, lost in the "Blenheim," 1707, the mysterious
fate of this war vessel forming the subject of a once popular ballad by James
Montgomery, The fourth and youngest son of the Lady Clementina was
George Keith Eiphinstone, Admiral of the Blue, a naval officer of very high
reputation, created Lord and afterwards Viscount Keith. By his first wife,
only daughter and heiress of William Mercer of Aldie, Viscount Keith left one
daughter, Margaret Mercer, married to the Count de Flauhault, French
Ambassador at the Court of St. James". Viscount Keith married secondly Hester
Marie Thrale, who survived till 31st March, 1857, when she passed away at the great
age of ninety-three, the last surviving member of the once renowned Johnsonian
circle at Streatham. (See also pp. 187-191,) The mansion of Cumbernauld had
been only partly tenanted during the last seventeen years. In 1875 the estate ,
was sold by the Hon. Comwallis Fleming, nephew of Admiral Fleming, to j

CUMBERNAULD HOUSE AND THE ELPHINSTONES. 187

Mr. John William Bums of KJlmahew, Dumbartonshire, for j^ 165,000. The pro-
perty was then described as consisting of 3,807 imperial acres, whereof 2,833 were
arable, and the remainder as plantation or rough pasture. The gross rental
was then set down at ^^4,692, and the public burdens at ;£4ai.

Making a pleasing addition to personal as well as family history, the
" Memoir of Admiral Lord Keith," completed by Mr. Allardyce, was an altogether
fresh work in biographical literature, and bore at the same time not remotely
on the stirring events occurring in Egypt. The closing scene of Admiral Keith's
official life was intimately associated with the memorable simeniler of Buonaparte
to Captain Maitland, of the "Bellerophon," during the command of the Channel
Fleet by the gallant Viscount. On his shoulders rested the responsibility of
transferring the fallen monarch on board Sir George Cockbum's ship, the
" Northumberland," preparatory to being despatched, with a few chosen attendants,
to his lonely banishment on St. Helena. It cannot be forgotten, however, by
students of the great Revolutionary war, that some fifteen years before the
"Surrender" Keith-Elph in stone commanded the fleet which carried out Sir Ralph
Abercromby with a British force to Aboukir, when the French power in Egypt was
broken for the time, and where Sir Ralph fell mortally wounded as the enemy
retreated to Alexandria, preparatory to a full capitulation within a few months.
In announcing the accomplishment of the expedition to Egypt, General Hutchinson,
who succeeded the brave and popular Abercromby, wrote to the Secretary of
State: — "I cannot conclude this letter without stating to your Lordship the
many obligations I have to Lord Keith and the navy, for the great exertions
they have used in forwardmg us the necessary supplies, and from the fatigue
they have undergone in the late embarkation of a considerable number of
troops and stores, who were embarked on the new lake, and proceeded to
the westward under the orders of Major-General Coote. The utmost despatch
has also been used in sending the French troops lately captured to France,
which in our present position was a service of the most essential consequence."
The despatch of French prisoners would appear to have been not the least of

THE WEST CO UNTR Y IN HISTOR Y.

the troublesome duties laid on Admiral Keith, during his command on the coast
of Egypt. AVhile the troops from Cairo were on their way down to Rosetta,
Menou made an offer to get rid of a number of his non-combatants in Alexandria,
and sent a brig out of the harbour, under cartel flags, with a large company of
"savants," members of the Institute and of the Commission des Sciences et
des Arts, who wished to get home with their archieological booty. "But as
I did not consider it froper," says Lord Keith, in his report to the Admiralty,
"to allow any person whatever to depart from a town long since blockaded,
and, I hope, immediately to be besieged, 1 have advised them all to return, and
acquainted General Menou that I shall observe a similar conduct towards the
invalids and blind if he sends them out, as proposed in his despatches." With
grim humour the Admiral offered to surrender to him a company of French
comedians who, sent by the French Government to enliven the garrison of
Alexandria, had been captured by the British cruisers; but Menou obstinately
refused to accept this addition to his garrison. So actively, however, did his
Lordship expedite matters for the despatch of the garrison of Cairo, that he was
able to announce to the Admiralty on 21st July — "The transports for the reception
of the French corps from Cairo are far advanced in preparation, and will be
ready before they arrive at Rosetta; notwithstanding we suffer much interruption
by the almost constant swell and impracticability of the bar." The embarkation
began on ist August, and was completed, in spite of the enormous quantity of
baggage, wilhin eight days; and the convoy, consisdng of six of His Majesty's
ships and nearly 50 British and Turkish transports, was despatched without delay.
Fifth son of Charles, tenth Lord Elphinstone, George Keith, whom history has
ranked among the first of British naval commanders, was born in his father's
old tower of Airth, Stirlingshire, early in January, 1746, a critical period in the
history of Scotland, for only a few miles off the remains of Prince Charles's
retreating expedition were intensifying, if possible, the terror and distress of
civil war by a final desperate effort to reduce Stirling Castle. His mother,
Lady Clementina Fleming, one of the beauties and toasts of Edinburgh society

i

CUMBERNAULD HOUSE AND THE ELPHWSTONES.

.85

in her youih, was strongly imbued with Jacobite principles, and in addition to
the extinct earldom of Wigtown, came to unite in herself the two attainted honours
of Marischal and Perth. Young Keith was named after his grand-uncle, the
Earl Marischal, who had taken part in Mar's rebellion, and was then living in
exile at the Court of Prussia, sharing in the favour which Frederick the Great
had extended to his illustrious brother, Marshal Keith. Encouraged by the
advice of his grand-uncle, Keith Elphinstonc followed the exam[ile of his brothers,
Charles and William, by entering the navy in his fifteenth year, being received
as midshipman on board the "Gosport" at Portsmouth, with but slender thought that
a peerage-and the baton ot commander awaited him in the profession he had
selected. The commander of the " Gosport" was Captain John Jervis, afterwards
ennobled as Earl of St. Vincent, for his memorable defeat of the Spanish fleet. The
naval service becoming unsettled by the reduction of the fleet after the peace of
Fontainbleau in 1763, Elphinstonc ser^'ed for a short time on board his brother's
vessel, under the flag of the East India Company, but again, through the friendly
influence of the Eatl Marischal, whose attainder had been reversed in consideration
0/ services rendered to England al the Court of Spain, Keith rejoined the Royal
Navy as second lieutenant on board the " Trident," from which he passed in 1773
with his first commission as commander of the "Scorpion," of 14 guns, employed on
the coast of Minorca and in (he Gulf of Genoa. From 1776, when Elphinstonc
entered upon his first duties on the American station, his career becomes associated
with all that is most memorable in the naval history of England, and can only be
glanced at here in the briefest manner. He commanded a detachment of seamen
on shore in the reduction of Charleston, was present at the attack of Mud Island,
November, 1777, and being sent home with despatches from Admiral Arbuthnot,
was appointed to command the "Warwick," of 50 guns. On tiie conclusion of the
American war in 1793, Captain Elphinstonc returned home, and was elected M.I'.
for Sltrlingshire, having previously sat for Dumbartonshire, after a contest of
uncommon closeness carried on during his absence on the American station with
Lord Frederick Campbell, brother of the Duke of Argyll. When the war of the

IQO

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

Revolution broke out with France, Elphinstoue was again on active service, joining
Lord Hood in the Mediterranean, and rendering services worthy of official
recognition in the famous descent on Toulon, August, 1793. Rather more than a
year later, on hostilities occurring bctneen England and the Batavian Republic,
Elphinsione, then Rear-Admiral of the " White," sailed to the Cape of Good Hope,
and in conjunction widi General Clarke compelled the Dutch, who advanced to
the relief of the colony, to surrender at discretion wiihout firing a gun. Pursuant
to instructions received from the Admiralty before soling. Admiral Elphinstone
next entered the Indian Ocean, where he first secured to the British Crown the
important possessions of Ceylon, Cochia, Malacca, and Molucca^ but, on returning
to the Cape, captured the entire Dutch fleet, which had been sent out under Lucas,
and taken up a position in Saldanha Bay with the view of striking a decisive blow
for the recovery of the colony. In 1779 the mutiny at the Norc called out the
Admiral's highest qualities in the way of gentle persuasion and concession, coupled
with a judicious firmness, necessary to be directed towards the leaders of the revolt.
The mutiny was ultimately found to spring from two veiy different causes — one a
well-founded disaffection with pay, provisions, and pensions; second, a dangerous
spirit of Republicanism springing directly from the principles and examples of the
French Revolution. Scarcely was subordination restored at the Nore, when the
Admiral (now Lord Keith) was hurried off to Portsmouth to procure a ship and
act as second in command of the Channel Fleet under Lord Bridport, tiie distrust
which had been excited by the conduct of the seamen, as well as the numerous
services which were to be performed in the Channel, making the Admiralty anxious
to strengthen Lord Bridport's hands. He was ordered to hoist his flag on the
"Queen Charlotte," which had been the chief centre of the Spithead mutiny. At
the close of 1799 Lord Keith took command in the Mediterranean, which ill-health
had compelled Lord St. Vincent to resign. In March he blockaded the harbour
of Leghorn in co-operation with the Austrians, and was mainly instrumental, by
the rigid blockade maintained, in reducing the French troops under Massena to
such straits as resulted in his surrender. Engaged successfully in restoring order

CUMBERNAULD HOUSE AND THE ELPHINSTONES.

throughout the islands of tfie Mediterranean, Lord Keith experienced the keen
distress of seeing from shore the burning of his noble flag-ship off Capraja, when
no fewer than 673 perished in the water or by the flames, and only 156 were saved
from the burning wreck. Prominent services discharged later in life were con-
nected with the operations of Abercromby in Egypt, and the command of the
Channel Fleet when Napoleon surrendered in 1S15. On being transferred from
the "Bellerophon" to the " Northumberland," the ex-Emperor repeated his former
protestations against being sent to St. Helena, or being treated in any other way
than as a distinguished prisoner of war. " I do not (he said to Admiral Keith)
voluntarily go from this ship or from England. It is you, Admiral, who take me."
To this the Admiral replied, " I hope, Sir, that you will not reduce an officer like
me to do so disagreeable an act as to use force towards your person." lie
answered, "Oh, no; you shall order me." I replied, "I shall attend you at your
convenience in my barge. I beg not to hurry you." This, wTites his biographer,
Mr. Allardyce, was the last important service that Lord Keith was to perform for
his country, and he doubtless felt proud that his public career should be wound up
by so memorable an incident. Seventy years of age when he quitted the service.
Lord Keith spent other seven active years in improving his estates, and, dying at
Tulliallan Castle in March, 1822, was buried in the old church of Overnewton, in
his own parish, which he had selected as a mausoleum for his family. Created an
Irish Baron in 1797, Admiral Keith was four years afterwards created a Peer of
the United Kingdom, as Baron Keith of Barrheath, Dumbartonshire, and presented
at the same time with the freedom of the City of London and a magnificent sword
by the Directors of tlic East India Company. Lord Keith was twice married —
first to Miss Mercer, of Aldie, Perthshire, in the line of succession to the attainted
Barony of Naime, by whom he had an only child, a daughter, Margaret, who in
1817 married the Count de Flahault, aide-de-camp to her father's last distinguished
captive, and in after days attached to the Court of Louis Philippe, as well as of
Louis Napoleon. The Countess Flahault died in 1867, three years before her
husband, when the Barony of Naime, to which she had succeeded, descended to

jtja THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

her daughter, the Dowager- March ion ess of Lansdotme. The second Lady K«ith
was the daughter of Dr. Johnson's friends, Mr. and Mrs. Thrale, the latter after-
wards, to the Doctor's distress, Mrs. Fiozzi. Born in 1764, she had been dandled,
and even partly educated, by Johnson, had, it has been affirmed, refused the hand
of Samuel Rogers, and died in Piccadilly, London, so laie as 1857, when she had
reached the extraordinary age of ninety-three, the last survivor, and in her youth an
adored member, of tlie once brillianl Strealham circle The materials for Mr. Allar-
dyce's delightful memoir were chiefly taken from the journals, despatches, and
ofRcial letters of Lord Keith preserved in the chaiter-room of TullialliiD Castlei
rerlhshire.

GLASGOW BURGH RECORDS.

Atari altogether from his official conneciion with Glasgow as Town Clerk, there
was good ground for expecting tliat the attention of Mr, Marwick, as Secretary to the
useful Burgh Record Society, would soon be turned in the direction of that pile of
old deeds and minutes gathered together for centuries by the different law advisers
of the Corporation. Their existence was known to many far removed from the
circle of immediate official connection. In November, 1831, Mr. John Smith,
youngest, presented to members of the Maitland Club a volume composed of
selections from the Records between the years 1572 and J581. Owing to the
local interest excited by the infonnation contained in that collection, further
investigation was prosecuted, and the result given to another select circle in the
shape of a dumpy, but now scarce quarto volume, entitled, " Memorabilia," giving
(with the exception of a score of pages at the commencement relating to Ayr
burgh) a series of Glasgow notices extending somewhat irregularly from 1588 to
1750, Previous to being printed off in a book form, this latter volume of selections
from the minute-books had appeared in the "Courier" newspaper, conducted by

GLASGOW BURGH RECORDS.

•93

Mr. Mot!ier.vi:ll till liis deatli in 1835. In 1868 Mr. West Watson, City Chamber-
lain, prinicd Tor private circulation a similar series of " Memorabilia " from the
minutes, commencing also in 158B, but continued down so late as June, 1743-
Volumes earlier than 1573 are thought to have been in existence about the
middle of last century, but recent inquiry for recovery has been unavailing, and
llie reference in Gibson's History, published 1777, appears to be all ihat is known
regarding them. Mr. M.irwick's diligent search, however, has been rewarded in a
ivjy not more interesting to his readers than wc ate sure pleasant to himself. He
has discovered four volumes unknown in modern times to predecessors in office.
One extends from May, 1581, to April, 1586; a second from October, 1594, lo
May, 1597; a third from November, 1598, lo October, 1601; and the fourth from
June, 1605, to June, 1610. The handsome volume now issued by the Scoltish
liurgh Record Society, under the care of Mr. Marwick, embraces the period
btitween January, 1573, and September, 1(142; but, even with his good luck in
bringing the four lost volumes to light, there are still five provoking breaks within
the period, one of them indicating so long a time as ten years — from 1613 lo i6aj.
Still, the selection is as complete as can at present be made, and contains, the
editor writes, everjthing to be found in that aeries of local records illustMtive of
the constitution of the burgh, its municipal government, and the social life of the
people. Although some of the matter inserted has only a limited or technical
interest, Wr. Marwick wisely resolved that in a case of this kind, where the
original records were frail and practically inaccessible, it was expedient to err on
the side of loo much rather than too little. Modem in date compared with thi;
fine series of Aberdeen minutes issued by the Spalding Club, this new volume
presents a more enticing and accurate picture of Glasgow growth and daily life
of the burgesses than any smooth- written history or compilation, however compre-
lienaive may be its pretensions. For such special excellence, indeed, the reader is
inclined to feel a personal regret that the record docs not open a few years earlier
than 1573. One single volume would have let us see how Glasgow received the
Regent Murray and his troops before the swift advance to Langside in the summer

■94

TSS WBST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

ot tS^t awl nifia tma have descnbed the wdatBie ffttn to the haftei Hair
bovdf when die umti to vkk her nek hutbaad before hu tuqncioa* raaonJ to
the Kirk-ofFieM. Crawford of Jordanbill, atiervardi Chief Magistrate of the
City, beard T^amlcy ur to the Queen ia his lod^ng, " If jou promise ote on yoor
boDOtir to lire with me as my wife, and not to leave tne any more, I will go mth
yon to the end of the world and caie for nothing ; if not, I will nay where I aoL"
" It shaD be as you have wpolun," she replied) and thereupon she gxre him her
hud and Euth. Thif was in Glasgow on the 17th January. The tragedy of the
Kiifc-of-Field took place on 9th Fdmtaiy following, Mr Marwick's volume ii
Joat raflicintly near the time to let us hear an after-dap or two of the great
Refofiaatloa itnigg^ in 1560. We do not see, it is tnie, that gallant defence of
lh« Cathedral by the crafts with Deacon Rabat at their bead, when the commons of
Renfrew, Barony, and Gorbals marched in one fair morning to purge the old
fabric of Popish nick-nackets, and actually succeeded in removing the images from
the shrinc), breaking them afterwards, as they said, by ScHpture warrant, and
flinging the pieces into what wiw then the silvery Molendinar. Vet we see early
in the work that the Church was cared for, even though it might be in desolation
— " with dust on her forehead, and chains round her feet." Here is a portion of a
resolution come to, »i»t August, 1574, avoiding, for the comfort of the reader, as
much a« possible the anliijuatcd sifclling : — The I'rovost, Bailies, and Council,
with the deacons of craftH,* and divers other honest men of the town, convened in
the Council-houNc, and having'rcHpect and consideration into the great decay and
ruin ihat the High Kirk of Glaigow is come to through taking away of the lead,
■late, "and utcr grayth thairof, in this trublus tyme bygane," so that such a great
monument will utterly fall down and decay, without it be remediedj and because
the helping thereof is so great and would extend to more than they might spare;
and that ihcy are not indebted lo the upholding and repair thereof by law, yet of
their own free-will, uncompclled," and for the zeal they bear to the kirk, of mere
nwms and liberality, have consented lo a tax and imposition of two hundred pounds
money for helping to repair the said kirk and holding it watcrfast.

J

GLASGOW BURGH RECORDS. 195

Among other encouragements given lo the labours of the Record Society,
Mr. Marwick mentions that the present Provost, Magistrates, and Council have
authorised the translation and printing of a volume of charters and kindred
documents relating to Glasgow, from its erection as a burgh about 1175 till the
middle of the seventeenth century. This will tend greatly to complete a view of
our City in the old days, and be highly useful for general historic purposes. A
little over forty years since, when the Royal Commissioners were busy with their
Reports on Municipal Corporations in Scotland, it was remarked of Glasgow that
it did not appear when the inhabitants first began to enjoy any peculiar rights or
privileges under the protection of the bishops; but, as they were not tenants or
vassals of the Crown, they could originally have had no such political existence as
belonged to the burghal vassalage of the king, and there even seemed good
ground for supposing that the whole territory of Glasgow was originally included
within the bounds of the royal burgh of Rutherglen, erected by David I. Under
the powerful patronage of the Church, however, the people of Glasgow were at an
early period enabled, by royal authority, to exercise some of the more limited
rights of traffic, and about 117a King William the Lion granted to Bishop Joceline
permission to hold a weekly market, and gave a general protection at the same
time lo the persons and chattels of the bishop and burgesses. About 1197, and,
as Dr. J. Robertson thinks, in immediate connection with the consecration of the
Cathedral crypt, the privilege was conceded of holding an annual fair, often
referred to in Mr. Marwick's volume, and still kept up with stinted show, of eight
days' duration, at the octave of the feast of St. Peter and Si. Paul. In virtue of
these early charters Glasgow became what has been called a free burgh, but the
Reports describe it as a mistake to suppose that it was thereby erected into a
burgh royal. It was then on the contrary what came to be described in later
days simply a burgh of barony. Ji was afterwards erected into a burgh of regality,
but in this as in all analogous cases there was an interposed or mid-superior
between the Crown and the burgesses; and their rents or mails (census burgales),
whatever they may have been, were due, not to the Crown, but to the Bishop.

\

196

THE WEST COUNTRY nx HISTORY.

The presumed inferiority of the early burgesses became so iniolerablu that in
i2j6 Alexander II. granted a charier prohibiting the people of Rutherglen from
taking loll or custom in the town of Glasgow, or nearer than the Cross of
Schetelston. Dumbarton was also unwearied in its opposition, so far especially as
Clyde trade was concerned; and even so late as the period embraced by the new
record volume, scores of entries are taken up with the contention of the two
burghs. In 1241, twenty years after Dumbarton bad been erected into a Ro)'al
burgh, Alexander II. granted a charter declaring that the burgesses of Glasgow,
Argyll, and Lennox, and Ihroughout the whole kingdom, might go and buy or sell
all kinds of merchandise as freely, ijuietly, fully, and honourably, without any
impediment from the Bailie of Dumbarton, as the burgesses and men of Glasgow
were able to do before any town or burgh was erected at Dumbarton. The
charter of regality in favour of Glasgow was obtained by Bishop Tumbuli from
James II. In the exercise of their high prerogative the Bishops continued for
about a century to nominate the Provost and Magistrates. This came to be
raodi6ed in 1554 by the introduction of a leet of names suggested to the Hishop
apparently by the burgesses as a whole; and for a year or two at the Reformation
they exercised the privilege of electing their own Magistrates. Shortly before the
abdication of the See by Archbishop James Beaton in 1559, he had appointed
the Earl of Arran and his heirs to be bailies of the regality, Ihey, on the other
hand, becoming bound to protect the See in all its rights and privileges; but, in
spite of this precaution, the opportunity was seized by the citizens of electing
their own Magistrates, and the contending rights of the See and the burgh can
hardly be said to have been adjusted till the abolition of Episcopacy under the
Revolution Settlement. The system of leets is in operation at the commencement
of Mr. Marwick's volume, the first Provost mentioned being Robert, Lord Boyd,
elected October, 1574, on the recommendation of Archbishop James Boyd.
Robert, Earl of Lennox, Lord Damley, was nominated and apj>ointed in like
manner in 1579-

Anothei event of more than local interest, illustrated by this Record

GLASGOW BURGH RECORDS.

19?

1

volume, is ihe famous Assembly of 1638, pre^ded over by Alexander Henderson,
and commonly described by Presbyterians as the Second Reformation. Buchanan's
pupil — Andrew Melville— had clamoured among others for the instant destruction
of Ihe Cathedral as a monument of idolatry, whither superstitious people
resorted for devotion, but which by its vastness was all unsuited for the
simplicity of orthodox rites. But laj^e as the building was, it was too small
for the crowd described as surging round it in December of that year, "while
within Covenanted Ministers and nobles gorged with Church plunder were
defyirig their King and excommunicating their liishops." Burnet says, "It
was perhaps the greatest confluence of people which ever met in these parts
of Europe — yet a sad sight to see, for not a gown was among them all, but
many had swords and daggers." Great excitement is said to have been
manifested as the "Jericho of Prelacy was smitten down, and the curse of
Hiel the Bethelite pronounced against all who should attempt to rebuild it."
The High Church was put in order for the occasion, and, as appears from a
minute of date November 3, a special guard was appointed to watch the town
night and day. Acting on instructions received from the Council, Commissioner
Provost Bell was among those who voted for coniinuing to sit in judgment on
the Bishops after the formal dissolution of the Assembly, and for repealing the
Five Articles of Perth as "unfree, unlawful, and null" During the sittings
the poor were kept off the street and maintained in their own houses. There
is much also in the volume concerning the arming and maintenance of the
men sent from the West to support the cause of the Covenant under General
Alexander Leslie at Dunse Law; and about all local institutions and topo-
graphy—college, schools, churches, and hospitals — wells, streets, and marches —
old customs and old trade regulations — unfailing information will be found.
The volume concludes with about forty pages of extracts from the Burgh
Accounts, extending over a period similar to that embraced by the Minutes of
Council There is here room for only a sample of the " Items." The sums
must be understood in each case as of Scots currency : —

198

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY,

"iS7S> J*"- 6' I'<2"i o" Fastrinis ewin, to ane fule with the treyn suerd
xviijd. — Item to the pyper callit Ryall Dayis for playing xviijd. — Sept 8, Item
to Malcolm Hammiltoua, for scurgeing of ane wod hussy throw the toune \%.—
1576, Jan. 3, Item Co ane boy to rin in the nicht to Dumbartan to caus the
baillies and thair clerk cum on the morn iijs.— June 16. Item to Eufame
Campbell, spous to Andro Baillie, for xvj quartis wyne propynit to my Lord
Bdyd, prouest, sen Vitsondaye last iiij lb. xvjs. — July 24. Geivin to David
Kaye for the price of the knok and vpsetting of hir in the tolbuyth quhilk vves
borrowit fra Thomas Garne jc lib, — 1582, June 2. Item for ane lok to put on
the theif that brunt the wyfe of the Cowcadennis, xxs. — 1583, June i3. Item gewin
to James Lyoun for denneris, aftemoonis drink to the proveist, bailleis, counsell
and deacones the tyme the proveist reraanit in this town for pacifeing of thee
trublis betuix the merchandis and craftismen, xlviij. li. iiijs. — 1584, Oct 9.
Item, gewin to Barbara Rarasaye, ane pure wowman with mony bamis, in
almous, xxs. — 1610, Sept 27. Item to Margret Young for candill fumlst be hir
that nydit the lyre was in Salt Mercat, xxs. — 1612, Feb. 15. Item gifin to ane
young man quha was lubbit of his pak xls. — i6a8. Item to Johne Clydsdaill
for carying of ane ctippill mane to Pasley xxvjs. — 1638. Item, debursii for
particularia when his Majesties commissioner the Marqueis of Hamilloun was
in the tolbuithe xxxiiij. li. xvijs. iiijd. — Item to Quintein Muir for instructing
of the young men to handill thair annes xi. li. — 1640. Item for oulreiking of xj
sojoris that went iu the commoun caus with Colonell Monro Ixxxxv. li. ixs. jd —
Item to maister Zacharias Boyd for ane termes annuall of 3 markis, Ixxx. li. —
1641. Item to ane Wind minister xxvij, li. — Item to George Andersone, prenier,
for his yeirs pensioune, Ixvj. li. xiijs. iiijd."

Mr. Marwick's volume is illustrated by a Plan ot the City in 1773; and,
better still, has a Table of Contents and Index so minute as to allow of the
book being easily consulted by the most Inexperienced reader. For much of
its completeness in this respect a graceful and appropriate reference is made
lo Mr, Renwick, who copied the records for press, collated the proof-sheets,
and prepared the Index of this interesting City volume.

GLASGOW BURGH RECORDS.

199

Dry as record study may appear at first sight to the student who knows
how to work in the mine and how to employ the discoveries certain to reward
patient, intelligent labour, it is not only an informing but a delightful pursuit.
Portions of what may be called history, touching at one point or other almost
the entire domain of human knowledge, no historical research worthy of the
name can be conducted without a careful study of the records pertaining to
the period, or the subject, it may be, under investigation. This is true of all
history, but true in an especial manner of local or municipal history. In
this way books like Dr. Marwick'a " Extracts from the Records of the Burgh
of Glasgow " come to have a double value — they suggest and they authenticate ;
they suggest new lines of inquiry, and authenticate what may have been only
imperfectly known before. Even more than this often happens. Attention
in tho study of known records leads to the discovery of kindred records not
known to exist, or which may have been removed from their proper resting-
place. In rewards of this kind Dr. Mar«'ick has been more than usually lucky.
While directing the preparation of the first Glasgow record volume the Town-
Clcrk was fortunate enough to bring to light four MS. volumes of Council
minutes unknown to predecessors in ofGce, one extending from May, 1581, to
April, 1586; a second from October, 1594, to May, 1597; a third from Nov.,
1598, to October, 1601 ; and the fourth from June, i6og, to June, 1610. This
first volume, printed for the Scottish Burgh Record Society about seven years
since (see p. 193), embraced the period between Jan., 1573, and Sept., 1642 ; but,
even with Dr. Marwick's good fortune in bringing the four lost volumes to
light, there were still five provoking breaks within the period, one of them
extending from December, 1630, till May, 1636. But this MS. was also found
after the first was printed, and is now included in the new volume, which other-
wise covers the period between May, 1641, and December, 1662. Like the
first volume, the second contains everything to be found in the Council records
within that period illustrative of the constitution of the burgh, ita municipal
government, its relation to other local bodies, and many glimpses, to be had

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

nonhere else, of the social life of the people in those days. This arises, no
doubt, partly from the meddlesome over-legislation by local Magistrates in the
sixteenth century — a meddlesomeness which would be now felt as intolerable —
but which yet permits the present generation to see ancestors in the manner
as they lived. The reader may leam from these records "how offences against
the law were created and how they were dealt with ; how civil war originated
and how it was conducted ; how property was acquired and how it ivas pro-
tected; he may see the people worshipping in the church and trading in the
marketplace; how they dressed, how they lived, and how they talked; and
he may leam if he pleases what calamities saddened and what festivals rejoiced
the hearts of the old burgesses who live again in the pages of their own records."
When not otherwise mentioned money value is to be calculated in Scots currency,
or one twelfth sterling. The first entry in the volume {December iS, 1630)
is suggestive enough of tlie motto, " I-et Glasgow Flourish by the Preaching of
Ihe Word," the treasurer on that date receiving "aoe warrand for fouriie pund
gevin be him to Miuster Andro Stewart for preitching Godis AVord, as helper
to Maister John Maxwell quhill he transportit his wyff, baims, and familie to
this burghe, and that be the space of fyftein weikis or thairby, as was promeist
to the said Maister John for his supplie." The second entry, on the same
date, has reference to the building of the now familiar Tron steeple, five pounds
(Scots) being then paid to Gabriel Smith "for scharping of the measoun irncs
for the wark." Many following entries relate to this erection, one in May, 1630,
ord^ning the treasurer to "have ane warrand for fourtie pund gevin be liim to
Mungo Huitschaw for gilling of the cok, glob, and vaines of the stipill in the
Trongait, as the Proveist and Deacone of Gild agreit with him." A laudable
desire for the repair and preservation of the Cathedral, or " Metropoliiane Kirk,"
as it is called, is shown by many entries relating to payments for lead, wood-
work, and painting. On <lh July, 1633, Matthew Colquhoun undertakes the
glass windows of Outer Kirk and Quire, and " to sweip and keip clein the haill
battilmgis and spoutis, and to sweip and keip clein the haill tumpykis and pillar

GLASGOIV BURGB RECORDS.

heidis of bailh kirkis, and speciallie the pcnd heidis and pillar heidis abone the
Counsall aait, and all uther plads neidfull, quhair tlie kirk officeris cannot win
to," Some notion of the extent, and even an outline, of the streets may be
had from the election of constables for the year 1C31. The proportion was
arranged as follows :— " Abone the Wynd heid, 5 ; fra the Wynd heid to the
Cros, on baith sydis of the gait, 7 ; Gallowgait, on baith the sydis and outwilh
the port, 5; Trongait on baith the sydis, 3; out of the West Port, on baith
sydis, 3; StockwalJgait, 3; Eriggait, 3; Saltmercat, 4; Waster Wynd, 2; New
Wynd and Maynis Wynd, 2."

Regarding national events, the first low breathings of the coming storm with
the King maybe traced in an order regarding drilling of a4lh August, 1633, a
few weeks after Charles had paid his ill-starred visit to Edinburgh in company
with Laud. On that date the treasurer is instructed to give "to James Ailchisoun,
dreil maister, for allevin scoir buikes, ane less, send be him to this burghe, beiring
the forme of dreilling, fourtie punj; and ordanes ilk young man of ane mid and
guid qualitie that hapins to be ressavit burgessis heirefter ressave ane of them for
four schilling to the treasurer, and he to be compatabill theirfoir." The day aiier
the King's execution the Magistrates were busy negotiating with Sir Robert
Douglas for the purchase of Gorbals, at the price of 110,000 merks, "with some
little moir befoir the bargane give up." On 15th July, 1650, the day when
Charles II., having previously accepted the Covenants, was proclaimed King at
Edinburgh, it was appointed that a levy of 150 men be "presentlie outrcikit," and
public intimation made that "quhasoever hes ane mind willinglie to offer themselfis
for defence and saftie of the Covenanlis, King and Kingdomes, to go out, aither
upone horse or (iit, that they wuld come presentlie to the laich Tolbailhe, and give
up their names, certifieing all suche quha sail not come betwixt and iwa eftcr-
noone that besyde they will be layablc to the fynes contenit in the Actis of
Parliament that they will be appoyniit lo goe out and to fumeis men in thair
rowmes with thirittie dayes provisioun, Lykas, it is heirby declarit that quaha so
offeris themselfia to go out that they sail be (He of the putting out of the propor-

^

2oa THE WEST CO UNTR Y IN HISTOR Y.

tioune of the 150 futt appoynted presentlie to goe out." On 12th August, 1650,
when Cromwell was moviog northward by way of Berwick, " it being showne the
danger that the countrey stands in fra the IngUs, and that thair is ane ongoeing
of the shyres of Air, Lanerick, Galloway, and Ranfrew to associat thair forces for
thair continuall saiftie, it was thairfor resolvit to joyne with them thairin, and that
the Proveisl (George Porlerfield) and the Clerk goe the mome to attend the
meiting at Kilmarnock for that effect, with ample commissioune." September 2
(same year, and the day before the cause of the Covenant was shattered by
Cromwell's Ironsides at Dunbar), it was appointed that 1200 "bisket breid be
Sent east to the sojouris that were outreikit be the toune," and then serving under
General David Leslie. Towards the close of the month, when Cromwell was
advancing on Glasgow, one iiartion of the town's bonds and Hutcheson Hospital
bonds were sent for safety to Avondale Castle, and later in the year another portion
Were conveyed to Carrick Castle. \Vhen the English garrisoned Hamilton in
December a weekly cesa was fixed on Glasgow of " threttie boUis meill, threttie
boUis horse corne, ten bollis malt, and that by and besyde great quaniiieis of cheis,
candlle, salt, and breid, certefetng that if they wer not thankfullie payed and
readilie answerit therof they wuld plunder the toune and give it over to the
mercie of insolent sojouris; and these wha were Magistratis and Counsellouris of
the poore toune for that tyme haveing left and dcsarted the same in so sad
condition, and many poore and uther honest people wha remained crying out for
help in so distressed estate and condition, it pleased God of His goodness to stir
upe the harts of ane ceftane number of young men, burgessis and burgessis sones,
wha teuk upone tliem in name of the communalitie to find out meanes and wayes
to get the Inglisch satisfeit, and so the toune thairby preservit from outer mine,
and haveing nothing quhairwith to do the same bot ane voluntary collection
quhilk was uplifted weiklie be their severall mylnes," &c, &c Account of charge
and discharge to be entered. Pressed on by the King for supplies, the Provost,
on April, 165 1, read a new demand of another kind, contained in letters from the
Lieuten ant-General and Major Montgomery, with two Acts, "one appoynting to

GLASGOW BURGH RECORDS.

ao3

give the publict quhat pistollis the towoe hes, and the other to give Ritmastet
fiuntein ane thowsand merkis. To the first it was desyret to wryt that the towne
Wnew not of ony pistollis in tlie place, and for the nixt it was fund that the towne
had no money to give, but coramittil to the magistrates to doe their best with the
Ritmaster to put him by, on easie terms if possible." In May, King Charles
writes from his Court at Stirling, desiring that the Magistrates, Council, and com-
munity of Glasgow would advance in loan ^^500 sterling, a portion of which was
raised from the telnds and by advances from four private burgesses — William
Home, James Armour, Thomas Campbell, and James ICincaid. The sad shifts
to which the burgh was reduced between the exactions of Charles and Cromwell
is brought out with much simple pathos in a resolution come to, we may well
believe, reluctantly, to close Hutcliesons' Hospital, completed only two years
previously, " for the entertainment of poor, aged, and decnpit men to be placed
therein." On June 3, 1652, "ihe Froveist, Balyeis, and Counsell, haveing
seriouslie takine to their consideratioune the present estaite and conditioune of the
foiresaid Hospitall, and finding that the haill sowmes of money now awine to the
house will scairce pay the debt awine for its pairt of the Gorballis boght, and that
there is no rent quhairwith to keep the boyes in the house or to hold the scool-
maisler as he hes bein heirtofoir, seeing the haill rent, almost that the said
Hospitoll hes to susteine any of these consistis most of the lands of Gorballis,

quhilk has now beine eattine upe and destroyed these twa yeiris bygane

It is thairfor resolvit that the fyve poor boyes that is presentlie in the house be put
home to thair parentis, and the maister of the hous to pay thair parents for thair
enterteinment as he and they best can agree." In like manner the Deacon-
Convener of the Trades' House, Manasses Lyie, made an appeal to the Council in
November of the same year regarding the "poore decayit brethrein" impoverished
through the wasting of Gorbals lands belonging to the Crafts. On Christmas Day
certain skilled men were instructed to be chosen to divide the Gorbals barony
among the three purchasing bodies— the Council, the Hospital, and the Trades
House. Matters would appear to have mended with the town a little before the

304 THE WEST COUNTR Y IN HISTOR Y.

Restoration, as in June, 1660, high public rejoicings trere held in celebration of
the event, and two hogsheads of wine provided for the use of the soldiers in

town.

Next to exactions by Cronnvell, Glasgow suffered grievously from pestilence
and fire during the period embraced in the new volume of "Minutes," and
referred to in many common histories of the City. The pestilence would appear
to have been most virulent in the summer of 1648, quartermasters being appointed
on 22nd July to inspect the town, to discharge the inhabitants from repairing to
wine or alehouses, and to refrain from wandering about tlie streets. On 5th
August the pestilence is described as " grownc hotter nor hes beine scene heirto-
foire," and ten new persons were appointed special inspectors, with magisterial
power. Seven days later, when travelling to Edinburgli was prohibited, the disease
is described as still increasing " in ane more hot nianer than hes beine scene and
knowne heirtofor to any now liveing, quhairby manie faniilees are removeit out to
the Muir." Two thousand merks were at this time voted by the Council for relief
of the poor sufferers. Later in the season an additional surgeon was introduced
into the City, " Becaus of the neid the towne stands in of some qualified
chirurgeonne, and that thair is ain large commendatioune gevine to Arthour
Tempill, ane of that professionc, iharfor ordaincs the Deene of Gild and his
brethrein to rcccave him burges and gild brother in hopes of his good service."
Under date aand June, 1652, it is recorded, " Forsameikiil as it has pleased God
to raise on Thuirsday last was the 17 of this instant, ane suddent fyrc in the house
of Mr. James Hamiltoune above the Croce, quhilk has consumet that close, the
haill close on both sydes belonging to William Stewart, Thomas Norvell, and
others, .... the haill housis bak and foir upon bolhe syds of the Salt-
mercat," with houses on the west of Gallowgatc and north side of Briggale,
"quhairby efter compt it is fund that thair will be neir four scoir closses all
burnt, estimat to about ane thowsand punds, so that unless spedie remidie be
useit and help sought out fra such as hea power and whois hartis God sail move,
it is lyklie that the towne sail come to outer niein." Coinmissioners were at once

GLASGOW BURGH RECORDS. 205

sent over the country for contributions in aid of the distressed; tradesmen were
permitted to be drawn from any quarter they could be got, and in September
Parliament made the welcome grant of ;^i|Ooo sterling, from the treasury of
sequestrations in Scotland, for relief of the sufferers.

Among the more miscellaneous entries, several of great interest (only to be
mentioned briefly here) will be found, relating to Ilutchesons' Hospital and
School, to Zachray Boyd and his " Mortifications," to the University, to Principal
Robert Baillie, translated from Kilwinning to Glasgow, and to nearly every craft
incorporated within the burgh, the latter frequently complaining of the inter-
ference of non-freemen, and the injury of their patrimony by the English.
Some notices also occur of the Grammar-school and Library-house, James
Colquhoun receiving on 3rd January, 1634, one hundred and ten pounds for
completing the latter, "casting the town's arms thairon, gilting of the Bischop's
armis, for the pains taken be him at Robiestoun Loche, and in making ane of the
]youn*s mouthis at the spoutis of the Tolbuith." Sharp steps would appear to have
been taken ' November, 1635, ^^^ raising the status of the Water Bailie, the Council
having then considered " the great contempt the place of watter bailyearie within
this burgh is fallen in be the admissioun thairto of divers decayed and depauperat
persounes, quhilk tendis greatly to the prejudice of the haill inhabitants of this
burgh and river, and thairfor they being most willeing to raise the same into the
old worthie and laudable estait quhairin it once wes, they haif concluidet ane of
the best sort and rank of the Counsell to be electit and choysen for dischargeing
of the said place, and his electione, with the forme thairof, and his jurisdictionn to
be set down on Settirday next." The Fleshers are censured July, 1647, i^ so far
as they had slighted the town by sending in no flesh to the market, and "becaus
it is verie needfull that the townc be servit with vivers,'' it is ordained, &c, "to
grant licence and libertie to all men in the countrey to bring in flesche, or Lcif
and muttonne, and all other sort of flesche, all the dayes in the weik, and they
sail have libertie to sell the same at all occasionnes frie of payment of any excyis
till Lambes nixt" In January, 1651^ attendance at Council came to be regulated

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

with greater strictness than formerly. It was then appointed that " al! quha comes
not in tymeouslie without ]awfull reasone shall pay sax shillings, to be immediatlie
put in the poores box."

GLASGOW CHAMBER OF COMMERCE.

Under the somewhat unpromising title of "Curiosities," a contribution of great
and permanent interest to local literature has just (1881) been made by Mr. George
Stewart, librarian of the Ciianilwr of Commerce, now within a short time of
completing the hundredth year of its useful existence. " Curiosities of Citizenship "
is not only apt by itself to convey an erroneous notion of Mr. Stewart's labours,
but the phrase falls much short of doing justice to the contents of his book. It is
in only a very remote sense a collection of " Curiosities" at all, whether the word
is taken as applicable to individuals or to the manner in which they become vested
with citizenshi]). Our early Buchanans, Glassfords, Stirlings, Monteiths, and
Finlays were nothing of the nature of " Curiosities," and might rather have been
inclined (o resent the application to themselves of such a term. " Bob Dragon "
was certainly a typical Glasgow "Curiosity" in person as well as in habits, but to
run the risk of including such a character in a history devoted to men like David
Dale, or the Tennants, or Orrs, besides those already mentioned, is apt to lead to
serious misapprehension. It can only now be hoped that Mr. Stewart's work will
not be judged by its title-page exclusively. Our early merchants, no less than the
Chamber they had the far-seeing wisdom to establish, well deserved such a full,
accurate, and appreciative record as has been put together by Mr. Stewart con-
cerning them. If their rise was not curious in the sense of being odd, it must
always remain wonderful; and yet, apart from their exceptionally humble
beginnings, their enterprise, thrift, and industry only secured the reward still daily

1

GLASGOW CHAMBER OF COMMERCE, 207

reaped in the shape of affluence, position, and power. Mr. Stewart has arranged
his book on the most simple and obvious lines, admirably fitted to carry out the
design contemplated in publication. Some time ago, he writes, the directors of
the Chamijcr of Commerce suggested the preparation of a few notes descriptive of
the circumstances giving rise to the Chamber, and of the early transactions
forming subjects of deliberation and discussion. Mr. Stewart readily acted upon
the suggestion, and confesses that he found the study one of great interest. It
occurred to him, however, that many curious and complicated details might be
rendered more attractive and interesting if, instead of being presented in a dry
historical or statistical form, they could in some way be associated with the lives
and labours of the most notable of those men who were the early directors and
members of the Chamber, and to whom, it is no exaggeration to say, modem
Glasgow owes a debt of honour and gratitude she can never pay. Preceded by a
chapter on the condition of Glasgow at the Union of the Parliaments, there falls
to be noticed in this way at considerable length the Buchanans of Drumpeller and
Mount Vernon in connection with the great Virginia trade, Charles Tennant
of St. Rollox, with the Macraes of Ayrshire, and bleaching chemicals; David
Dale of Rosebank, and the rise of the cotton industry ; George Macintosh
of Dunchattan, and his cudbear works at the Craigs Park, Ark L.ine; John
Monteith of Anderston, and early weaving; the Siirlings of Cordale and
Dalquhurn, famous for their calico printing and dyeing ; Henry Riddell, Virginia
merchant, deeply concerned in the extension of the City westwards to George
Square, J. C. Campbell of Clathick, John Robertson of Plantation, and Robert
Carrick may be confidently accepted in illustration of such commercial enterprises
as were represented in their day by the Thistle Bank, the Glasgow Arms Bank,
and the Ship Bank. Following these, Mr. Stewart presents a facsimile list of
the original subscribers to the Glasgow Chamber of Commerce, and a historical
sketch, which tnight have been much enlarged to the advantage of the reader, con-
cerning the origin and objects of the Chamber, followed up by a notice more
or less minute of almost every merchant connected with it In early days

zo8

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

resident in Glasgow, Greenock, or Paisley. Mr. Stewart describes the com-
mercial prospects of Glasgow at the close of the iViiierican War in 1783 as of
the most gloomy kind The great Virginia trade, he writes, which for a long
scries of years emjiloyed tiie largest share of the city capital, was then lost.
Cotl on-spinning, with its accompanying industries, was yet unknown ; in fact,
except a growing traffic with the West Indies and the manufacture of a few
domestic fabrics, the trade of the town was extremely limited. It therefore
became apparent that a means of combined action for opening up new sources
of trade and commerce, and of organising a method whereby direct and efficient
communication between the trade of the ^Vest and the Government and Legis-
lature could be established, was a pressing necessity. The result of much eager
discussion was the formation of the Glasgow Chamber of Commerce, the first
institution of its kind in the kingdom, the Edinburgh Chamber, not being
established till nearly three years later (December, 1785).

Guided by strictly official records, Mr. Stewart is no doubt correct in
mentioning that the first form.al meeting of the Chamber was held early in
January (most likely Thursday the and), 1783 j but, as appears from the news-
papers of the day, the scheme had been wrought into practical shape a month
or two earlier. In November, 1782, intimation was made that a plan for
establishing a Chamber of Commerce and Manufactures in Glasgow, compre-
hending the towns of Paisley, Greenock, Port-Glasgow, and places adjacent,
had been submitted by the Lord Provost to the consideration of the merchants,
traders, and manufacturers in these towns. In November, 1781, many merchants
had concurred in what came to be the real, practical objects of the Chamber
as more minutely defined at a later date— viz., to promote such branches of
trade as are more peculiar to this country; to establish local rules for the
convenience and assistance of foreign and inland traders and manufacturers;
to discuss all memorials and representations from members of the Charaljcr
in matters regarding trade ; to afford them assistance and relief in negotiating
public business; to assist in procuring redress of any grievance, hardship, or

GLASGOW CHAMBER OF COMMERCE.

209

L

oppression affecling any particular branch of trade or manuracture ; to consider
all matters affecting the Corn Laws in this part of the United Kingdom, for

the purpose of supporting the industrious poor ; and, in generaJ, to take cognisance
of every matter and ihin^ in the least degree connected with the interests of
commerce or manufactures. It was agreed at this preliminary meeting in
November, 1782, that the care of the Chamber should be committed to the
thirty Directors, chosen from the most intelligent class of merchants and
manufacturers. The names of those selected at the first formal meeting
in January following may recall some of the then important Glasgow houses
to our older readers :— Patrick Colquhoun, Lord Provost (afterwards the well-
known London Magistrate), chairman ; James M'Gregor, deputy- chairman ; John
Glassford, James Dennistoun, sen., Wm. Cunningham, J. Campbell (Clathick),
Wm. French, James Somervill, Henry Riddell, Robert Dunraore, John Robertson,
Wm. Coates, John Lawrie, George liogle, Robert Cowan, Gilbert Hamilton,
Archibald Graham, James Ccmmell, Hugh Moody, John Stirhng, John Brown, jun,,
Walter Stirling, James Finlay, William Lang, Uavid Dale, Dugald Bannatyne,
Alex. M'Alpine — nearly all of Glasgow; Robert Fulton, John ^ViUon (father
of "Christopher North"), and William Carlile, Paisley. At an adjourned
meeting held on the 8th January in the Assembly Room, Gilbert Hamilton,
merc!iant, was appointed secretary, and John Maxwell of Dargavel, writer,
clerk of submissions to the Chamber. Early in August members held their
first meeting under the Royal Charter obtained 31st July, when a vote of
thanks and presentation of plale was resolved on to Lord Provost Colquhoun,
LL.D., "for the uncommon attention and pains bestowed by him upon the
business of the society." Dr. Coliiuhoun, engaged from youth in the Virginia
trade, purchased part of the estate of ^Voodc^oft, now Kelvingrove, but removed
in 1792 to London, where, as police magistrate, he wrought out a variety of
important reforms in the police system of the Metropolis. At present ( 188 1) the oldest
living members of the Chamber are Mr. Walter Buchanan, ex-M.P. (chairman
in 1836), with W. F. Burnley and W. H. Debbie— the latter now of Edinburgh.

14

TBS WEST COtTNTlt Y IN BtSTORY.

tlie Cha»bcr «w oor tons ni 9X6t% to tke Kiiaai voric bdoK it fai
eonMfaw vUi Ite iUppfaifr g MiwibHu i i afe ad geaed co waimii l calapriK
of fte time. In i66«, »tth the *iew <rf orerojoBng the (BfBatlties of the nnx,
tbea n a itate of natore, the Ma^ralw of the City porchased Mxty acres of
giDODd at Newark (or the poipow of buadtng New, or, as it afieiwaids came
10 be called, Port, Glasgow. As certaia tndefa so^t ■ramaiiciny to evade
tlw dnes levied at th^ port bjr landa« tbcir good* al other places on the ClTde.
the Merchanti* Hoose in 1705 went m far as it cooW in passing a resolution
ordaining, andei severe penalties, thai all vessels bomid for that river should land
the cargo at Port-Glasgow, except in cases of necessity. At the second annna!
meeting of the Chamber of Commerce held in the Town Hall, January, 1 784, it was
resolved to apply to the Commissioners of Customs and Exchequer for an establtsh-
roent in Gla^ow for "proving" merchandise, as in London, wherd)y the necessity
of opening debenture and bountj- goods at the ports of exportation might be
rendered unnecessary in future. The Chamber naturally contended that if their
desire was carried out many existing abuses would be pre^-ented, whDe it would
tend at the same lime to remove the prejudici>s against local manufactures,
"which, by being opened, exposed to the weather, and improperly repacked,
often occasioned them to be found in bad order when landed at a foreign
market." Another serious matter engaged the attention of the same meeting,
representations being then made that certain traders between Greenock and
America, had been in the habit of plundering the revenue and defrauding the
underwriters, by first landing their goods surreptitiously and then wilfully
destroying their vessels. The Chamber therefore resoh-cd to use every effort
for the purpose of bringing such persons to justice, and in addition pressed upon
shipowners the necessity of exercising increased precaution in the engagement
of seamen. That the action of the Chamber in this grave question was not
premature, may be inferred with certainty from criminal proceedings which
look place at Edinburgh on the asrd April following. On that day, and at
the instance of Robert Hunter and others, underwriters in London, James

H Herdu

H^ jointly

I

GLASGOW CHAMBER OF COMMERCE.

Herdman, John M'lver, and Archibald Macallum, merchants in Greenock, and
jointly concerned in the ownership of the brigantines "Endeavour"and "New York,"
were committed to the Tolbooth, charged with feloniously sinking ships at sea
with intent to derraud the underwriters. Application for their imprisonment
on the capital charge was made before the Judge of the High Court of Admiralty,
but an additional reason for the prisoners being then in Edinburgh arose from
an apprehended attempt at escape, through the bad condition of the prison
in Paisley, and the overcrowded state of that of Glasgow, in which jails they
had been confined for some time past. The trial came on before Judge Pringle,
i9lh May following, when, after an argument on the statutes dealing with capital
and arbilrary punishments for the offences charged, the Crown restricted the
indictment, and the jury found the panels guiliy. The sentence was — "That
they shall stand at the pillory in Glasgow, July 18 (Wednesday), for the space of
one hour with a rope about each of their necks, and bare-headed," with the
following label affixed to their breasts: — "Here slands John M'lver and Archibald
Macallum, infamous persons, who did wickedly procure holes to be bored in
the ship 'Endeavour,' in order to sink the same and thereby defraud the
underwriters." They were also banished Scotland for life, and, in case of their
return, were to be imprisoned for one year, and to be publicly whipped on the
first Wednesday of every month during such imprisonment A Bill of Suspension
was presented to the Court of Justiciary, but the Judges repelled the reasons,
and, finding no just cause for mitigation of punishment, the panels were duly
pilloried, agreeable to their sentence. The prisoner Herdman was tried z8th July,
and being found guilty was sentenced, like his companions in guilt, to stand
in the Glasgow pillory, and be thereafter banished the kingdom.

Although the "Wealth of Nations" was not published till 1776, twelve years
after Adam Smith resigned his professorial chair in Glasgow University, yet
his teaching had begun to exercise a strong influence in his lifetime among
members of the Glasgow Chamber of Commerce, as may be gathered from the
proceedings at a. meeting of cotton and muslin manufacturers called in August,

J

ai2 THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

1784, fur the purpose of prblestii^ againtt tbc new scale of duties tbeo imposed
upon thor goods. The minates Kt forth that vben the first cUss of cottons
and muslins peculiar (o the West Country trade were taken at a ixa average,
the new tax would be about 5 per cent, of the value, but as the second class
would chiefly include the kind of goods known as 6-4ths muslins, the tax of
ad. 6-30tbs per yard would amount on an average to 7 or 8 per cent, of talue.
Expressing a hearty willingness to itharc in the general burdens of the country,
the Glasgow manufacturers yet considered themselves unfairly matched against
tbc East India Company, tn so lar as their home produce was selected for
taxation at a time when Ihe Company was supported at the public expense with
little short of one million of money, free of interest, which would nearly equal
t'lC whole produce of the tax on cottons. The manufacturers therefore concluded
by protesting against the competition as unfair, partial, and unwise, at least so
long as the Company enjoyed its English monopoly and pecuniary aid from
the Slate. Many readers still engaged in business will recollect that one of
Kirkman Finlay's great services was the assistance he gave to break up this
monopoly, and the examiilc he set in opening up the extensive Indian trade.
The first ship direct from the Clyde to India— the van of a vast fled, Mr. Steivart
justly remarks — was freighted by Kirkman Finlay, the "Buckinghamshire," of 600
Ions, being sent out for Calcutta direct

Organised mainly for the purpose of serving commerce, the Chamber has
occasionally unbended from its high duties and gracefully acknowledged services
rendered indirectly to merchants, forgetting even for a moment that her symbols
arc those of peace and not of war. In the course of the great struggle fur
independence by the American Colonies, aided by France, a number of the more
important West India Islands— Tobago and St. Christopher among the rest-
was seized on behalf of his Most Christian Majesty by General the Marquis
Uouill^, famous in many lands before that for magnanimity no less than bravery,
and destined to high command afterwards in the unhappy contest carried on
by his brother nobles against the Republic. Having done all that was possible

OLD GLASGOW HOUSES. 213

to protect property in the islands— and in much of it Glasgow merchants had
a deep interest — the Chamber of Commerce in the first year of its corporate
existence, agreed to present a sword to the gallant Marquis, in testimony of
their appreciation of the high qualities manifested in his late command, when,
in the career of victory, "he softened the horrors of war in a manner hitherto
unknown, and protected the property of individuals in those moments of distress,
when the vanquished were accustomed to experience devastation and ruin."
The sword, made after an ancient Scottish pattern, and reputed at the time
as the finest eves made in the country, was conveyed by General Melvill to the
Marquis, who duly acknowledged the gift with expressions of esteem for Great
Britain, and the most lively sentiments of gratitude to "the gentlemen of the
Chamber of Commerce."

The above incident, taken almost at random from the first year in the
history of the Chamber, may indicate to Mr. Stewart in what manner, if not to
what extent, he might have usefully shown, with more minuteness than he has
done, the more important questions taken up from time to time by the Chamber,
as well as the influence it may be presumed to have exercised in theu: settlement
With this exception, no words except words of praise need be used in describing
his labour. The merchant, the historian, the genealogist, will all find it full
of excellent matter fitly arranged. Even those curious on the subject of street
nomencbture will find it of much use, for many an important thoroughfare, many
a street, lane, and square owes its name to members of the Chamber described
by Mr. Stewart

OLD GLASGOW HOUSES.

Some years since there was issued a handsome folio volume filled with 100
highly-finished photographs of mansions in and around Glasgow, historically
interesting, as being associated with the names of old City merchants, or

ar4

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

with the families of landed proprietors. In addition to the excellent pictures
by Annan, each mansion had devoted to it a few pages of letterpress, descriptive
of iu age and history, with some account of the families, past and present,
reared within its walls. When it is mentioned that many of these sketches
came from the pen of our amiable and accomplished friend, the late John
Buchanan, LL.D., assurance was given that the duty of preparing the text
had been committed to most competent writers, familiar alike with the details
of burghal life and property, as well as trained in the somewhat special pursuit
of genealogical investigation. The impression was limited to a httle over
loo copies, almost instantly taken up by subscribers. Since the date of
publication the chance of obtaining the volume has only rarely been aRbrded
by sales when libraries were being broken up, and when nobody thought
of grudging a very large advance on the original cost. The book was a rarity,
and it was besides — what is not always the case with book rarities — a substantial
and valuable addition to local historical literature. There was room at any
time for a new impression. Under these circumstances, and as applications for
the work were much increased of late (18S2), Mr. Maclehose issued a new edition
of 225 copies, fully subscribed for, in like manner to the first It is, indeed,
in some respects rather a preferable volume, the opportunity of reprinting
the sheets having been taken advantage of to correct a few unavoidable slips in
names and dates, as well as to bring in a general way the family records to
a point nearer the present day. Annan's photographs are still perfectly fresh
and lustrous. They have been taken in almost every instance from such a point
of view as gives a fair notion of the fabric, with the exception probably of
Garscube, where we miss the fine old English manor front, designed with so
much taste by Mr. Bum, In a book otherwise handsome, entertaining, and
useful^ — a book, besides, which hardly makes any appeal to the general public
for patronage, it may appear ungracious even to refer to apparent defects; but
one or two will be noticed in turning over the leaves. Tlie photogra))hs,
though strictly speaking coraect and bright, are yet cold and stiff — a result

k

OLD GLASGOW HOUSES. aifi

largdy due to the fact of many of them having been (aken in the winter season,
when trees stand bare of foliage, and produce startling pictorial effects with
their skeleton branches. In many cases the bleak aspect outside contrasts
strongly with the comfort and good cheer which it may be presumed was
enjoyed within. Then the two maps of Gla^ow, showing the City at different
dates, arc on much too small a scale to permit of tracing out streets or properties
refi^rred to in t!ie text. A full-page, or even a double-page, map of the dates
given would have been of considerable service lo the reader. Lastly, we miss
■ or two mansions interesting on their own account, or as being associated
with Glasgow merchants. There is Cordale, with its memories of the elder
Stirlings, Campbell, Sir William Hamilton, and "Cyril Thornton;" there is
the stately pile of Tillichewan, acquired by one who was in many respects a
typical merchant of the early years of the present century; and there is the fine
old house of Gartshore, now absorbed in the Gartsherrie connection.

The rise of the great industries of Glasgow not dating much beyond the latter
quarter of last century, the history of these old merchants comes to be really a
history of the commercial enterprise of the period read in the hght of their daily
experience and domestic usages. Would we know the facts about the tobacco or
wine trade, about coal or iron, about spinning or weaving, where need we look
with more confidence than in the family records of citizens so prominent as the
Buchanans, the Bogles, and the Glassfords, the Hamiltons, Douglasses, and
Dunlops? It is only a pily the labour was not undertaken earlier. Between
improvement schemes and railway operations the City has become a new place to
citizens who might be offended if they were called elderly. The Cathedral, to be
sure, Sl Andrew's, and the Tron Steeple still remain ; there is a Gallowgate and a
High Street in name, though the first is changed to a broad and well-built
thoroughfare, and the last pulled down in many quarters beyond hope of identifica-
tion with old land-marks, but no assurance can be given for the preservation even
in name of old buildings in the omskirts. Of the loo mansions figured in the
work, tea have gone since it was first issued. North Woudside and Camplefield

9l6

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

were spared just long enough to bave theii features taken in 1870; since then
Annfield, Gilmorehill, Kelvinbank, Kclvinsidc, Meadow Park, Fossii, Stobcross,

and Whitehill have all disappeared. It is appropriately remarked in tiie
introduction that those whom people here used to own as their natural leaders
were "kent folk," who made no pretence to count them their equals, but who
shared their feelings, opinions, and prejudices — who spent their lives within
hearing of the Tolbooth chimes— who found in Glasgow, kirk and market, the
centre of their interests in business and out of business. Every year the nolables
of our day grow more of strangers to the place that tliey live by— spend fewer hours
in its smoke and din ; outside their o\vn little circle are more and more unknown
even by face, till it has come to this, that a man may be in the foremost rank on
'Change, may by all who know him be looked up to and recognised as exception-
ally fitted by talent, knowledge, and force of character for the higiiest post in the
gift of citizens, and may yet to the bulk of these be so unknown that his
candidature is resented as the intrusion of a stranger.

Mention has already been made of the important services rendered to the
volume by the late John Buchanan, LL.D. Availing themselves of his account
of Slatefield, where his mother, Catherine Miller, was born, the editor of the new
issue takes occasion to refer in a few graceful and appropriate lines lo some of his
many merits. It ts mentioned of him that he was well read in general literature,
and in history, especially Scottish history; but his favourite study was archsology,
and most of all the archaeology of his native City. "He loved old Glasgow with
a lover's love, and he made it such a study from boyhood that a knowledge of it
died with him, never to be replaced. A diligent student may recover as much of
the past as lies buried in books and cartularies, and there ia some hope that this
work may erelong be done by one every way fitted for it. But John Buchanan
had a minute personal knowledge of those who once lived here that records cannot
give. The Glasgow of a hundred years ago he knew as few know the Glasgow of
to-day. Its old merchants and bankers, its ministers and professors, its beaux
and its belles, still lived for him ; he had known them from their cradles, and

A GLASGOW CATHEDRAL RELIC. 217

their fathers and mothers before them ; he knew where they had been trained, and
the use they made of their training ; whom they had married, and whom they had
tried to marry ; where they lived, and how they lived ; where they died, and where
they lie. And he had the rare art to make them live again for our benefit At
his bidding they rose from the Ramshom or the High Kirkyard, and once more
paced the planestanes in red cloak and cocked hat, or tramped the Trongate in
pattens and caleche." In the " Mansions " his help was invaluable. No one but
himself could have written "Kelvingrove," "Stobcross," and other papers readily
recognised. It was hoped he would have given his help to the new issue,
but his final illness prevented him from doing more than making a few verbal
alterations on what he had already written. Dr. John Buchanan died (June, 1878)
as the " Country Houses " was being finished. In a brief introductory advertise-
ment, the publisher, Mr. Maclehose, expresses warm thanks to his friends, John
Guthrie Smith and John Oswald Mitchell, for the unwearied labour they also have
bestowed on the new volume. The papers, it is mentioned, have been not only
revised and enlarged, but in many cases entirely re-written by them. Only those
who have tried this kind of work can have any idea of the amount of research and
patience that is necessary to secure accuracy ; and none but those who have been
associated with Glasgow and its history could have accomplished the task. The
result is a work which the publisher may well describe as rare in character, if it be
not indeed the solitary example of its class.

A GLASGOW CATHEDRAL RELIC.

A SCULPTURED memorial, suggestive in the highest degree of the ancient
ecclesiastical dignity of Glasgow, was removed in 1878 under circumstances
somewhat unusual; yet at the same time extremely interesting and appropriate.

>i8

THE WEST COUNTRY m HISTORY.

While the Cathedral itself was saved from destruction at the Reforoiatioa by
the energetic action of the City trades, the adjoining Archieprscopal Castle or
Palace was allowed to fall gradually into decay. So late, compaiaCively, as
1715 it was hastily fitted up as a prison for 300 Highland rebels, but for all
really useful or permanent purposes it may be set down as having been in ruins.
In 1720, a Robert Thomson, merchant, who lived near the fabric, represented
to the Barons of Exchequer ihat the Palace, not having been inhabited for
many years, was then in ruins, and men were getting so barbarous and unjust
as to carry off stones and timber for their own use " to the shame and disgrace
of the Christian religion." Nothing, or rather worse than nothing, was then
done to arrest decay, and in 1755 the Magistrates (George Murdoch being
Provost at the time) gave formal permission that Robert Tennant, builder,
might use the castle as a quarry, wlierein stones migjit be obtained for the
purpose of building the old Saracen's Head Inn. Not far from the castle,
and giving direct access to its chief entrance-hall, was the gatehouse and arched
gateway, erected by Archbishop Gavin Dunbar, 1524-47, and adorned with
what must have been at the time a most effective sculptured emblazon of his
own family armorial bearings, surmounted by the Royal Arms of Scotland.
When the work of spoliation was going on at the palace, this portion of the
plunder would appear to have fallen into the hands of one, Charles Selkirk,
who, being a man of some little taste, as it was understood in those days,
and actuated probably by some feeling of compunction regarding the abuse
of ecclesiastical ornaments, saved the armorial, and aftenvards inseited it high
up in the back part of a tenement erected by him near the foot of High Street
in 1760. This building now forms part of the prcnnses known as No. 22
(east side), owned by Messrs. John Millar & Sons, drapers, as figured and
described in "Glasgow, Ancient and Modem." This interesting memorial of
Archbishop Uunbar may be described as consisting of three portions, measuring
in all 7 feet by 3 feet 3 inches — (1) The Royal Anns of Scotland, a lion rampant
within the double tressure, and unicom supporters bearing the letter I. and

A GLASGOW CATHEDRAL RELIC. 219

figure 5, most likely by permisaion of King James V. himself, who had in
early Ufe been the pupil, and to its sad close at Solivay Moss, continued to be
the friend and patron of the archbishop ; (2) The armorial bearings of that
branch of the Dunbar family to which the arch-prelate belonged, vi/., Dunbar
of Mochrum, Wigtownshire, three cushions within the double tressure of Scotland,
being the arms of Randolph, Earl of Moray, assumed by the family of Dunbar,
subsequent to the marriage of the son of the Earl of March Lo a daughter of
the former house. It is possible there may have been a mallet or some such
ornament occupying the space between the three cushions, but now mouldered
away. Tlie third or lowest division in the group is made up by the armorial
bearings of James Marshal, Sub-Uean of the Cathedral, friend and executor
to the archbishop — viz., a chevron cheque, between two martlets in chief and
one in case, a rose occupying the middle chief point. Under each shield is
a scroll which may have borne an inscription or motto not now to be traced.
On either side are two ornamented pillars, the dexter, or right, now slightly
broken. A line or two regarding the archbishop's career will best explain the
story of the removal of this interesting memorial. A younger brother of Sir
John Dunbar of Mochrum, by Dame Jannet Stewart, of the house of Garlies,
Gavin was educated at the University of Glasgow, became Dean of Moray,
tutor, as has been aheady mentioned, to the young Prince James, and was also
raised lo the dignity of Prior of Whithorn, a religious foundation in his native
county, reared in commemoration of the labours of St. Ninian. By a curious
coincidence this earliest of Christian missionaries in the north had fully a
thousand years before Dunbar's date consecrated for Christian burial the ground
by the Molendinar, where St. Mungo reared his first cathedral, and then passed
to Galloway, where he laid the foundation of that religious establishment governed
in later days by one who was also destined to fill a chief seat among the
hierarchy of the West. On the removal of Beatoun to the Primatal See of
St. Andrews in 1524, Gavin Dunbar was made Archbishop of Glasgow, and
filled the See till his death in 1547, when his body was placed within a tomb

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

prepared by himself in the Cathedral chancel. No portion of it is now to
be seen, but some traces of the erection and also of the remains were thought
to have been discovered in the course of [e{>airs made in May, 1856. As Dunbar
had succeeded one Beatoun, so he in turn was to be succeeded by another
James Beatoun, the Cardinal's nephew, and who proved to be the last of
the pre-Reforraation Archbishops, Dunbar was elevated to the dignity of Lord
Chancellor in 1518, and was made a Lord of the Articles in 1532, the year
when the College of Justice was instituted. The present (1878) lineal representative
of the Dunbars of Mochrum is Sir William Dunbar, eldest son of James,
second son of the fifth Baronet, Sir William sat for the Wlgtonm district of
burghs from 1859 to 1865, and was during the same period a Lord of the
Treasury and Keeper of the Great Seal for Scotland to His Royal Highness
the Prince of Wales. He also represents the Dunbars, hereditary Sheriffs of
Morayshire, one of whom, it may be mentioned, was Icilled at DonibristJc
Castle by Hunlly and his party, along with "the Bonnie Earl of Murray" of
ballad fame. Engaged in the erection of a new mansion on his Wigtownshire
property, and hearing through ex-Bailie Salmon that the memorial stone from
the Archbishop's gateway was stil! where it was placed, in much the same
condition as in 1760, Sir William indicated a desire to rescue it from obscurity,
and give it a place of honour in the new residence of the family to which tlie
great churchman belonged. Coming to hear of the wish. Bailie Millar, pro-
prietor of the premises in High Street, readily placed the old armorial stone
at the disposal of Sir William. The offer being accepted in the same courteous
spirit in which it was made, the stone was withdrawn from its secluded and
all but inaccessible niche to adorn the family pile of the Archbishop's home,
and to revive his fame within a few miles of the priory where he bore rule.

THE SPREULLS OF GLASGOW. 221

THE SPREULLS OF GLASGOW.

Representing through his mother the old Glasgow family of Spreull, and in
possession besides of several curious memorials relating to " Bass John/' Mr. J.
W. Bums of Kilmahew and Cumbernauld, rendered a service to general as well
as local history by gathering together and printing in a neat form the miscellaneous
papers concerning one who was at once an intelligent advocate of the truth and a
sharp sufferer in its behalf. Bom in the year of King Charles's surrender to the
Scottish army at Newark, John SpreuU was nearly old enough to remember the
execution at Whitehall, and is almost certain to have been engaged in business
soon after the Restoration. Seized during the '' killing" time which set in after
the affair at Bothwell Brig, and declining to give any information to the Privy
Council, either as to his connection with Cargill or knowledge of the pretended
plot against the Duke of York, John Spreull was first subjected to the cruel torture
of the ''boot," fined ^^500 sterling, and then thrown into the noisome Bass
Prison, where he lay with other sufferers for over six years, when he was released
unconditionally. The story will be found told at considerable length in Woodrow*s
" Sufferings," the historian, who appears to have been acquainted with Spruell,
making special mention of the different examinations before and after torture, and
of the public indignation excited by the cruelty manifested throughout the pro-
ceedings against this unoffending victim of tyranny. From his long imprisonment
Spreull acquired the name of " Bass John," whereof (writes Woodrow) " he needs
not be ashamed" In later and happier days the sufferings in and out of the
Bass suggested a family crest of a palm-tree held down by two weights on cither
side, with the motto, " Sub pondcre crcsco'^ Although connected with a long line
of Glasgow Spreulls, " Bass John" was of Paisley birth. His father was a bailie
and merchant of that burgh, connected with the Cowden family, suffering, like his
son, for refusing to accept the ensnaring oaths of the day, but of high repute
among his townsfolk for having purchased from the Dundonald family the right

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

of electing their own magistrates. His wife was Janet, daughter of James Alexander,
Paisley, and Janet Maxwell of Pollok. Failing issue from any of his three sons or
four daughters, "Bass John's" position as head of the family passed to James
SpreuU, surgeon, Paisley, who married his cousin Ann, only child of John
Spreull or Shortridge, lown-clerk, Glasgow, author of "Some Remarkable Passages
of the Lord's Providence." From this marriage came an only daughter, who, in
1700, married James Shortridge, and carried with her as "tocher" the property
adjoining the old Hutcheson Hospital, north side of Trongate, on which site came
to be built ihe entailed property long familiar to readers of the "Herald" as
"Spreull's Court." In "Glasgow Past and Present" mention is made of the
town-clerk's name as being originally Shortridge, but changed under the condi-
tions of a legacy left by Miss Spreull. The descent is not so clear at this point
as a genealogist would like, but from William Shortridge, of Messrs Todd &
Shoriridge, of Levenfield Printworks, came Mrs. Bums, wife of the late James of
Bloomhill, Cardross, and mother of the present John William Bums of Kilmahew
and Cumbernauld. After the Revolution Settlement " Bass John" would appear
to have taken an active part in the politics of his day, and, as a prosperous
Glasgow merchant, subscribed what was then the large sum of ;^i,ooo towards
the Darien scheme of his friend Paterson, whom he a good deal resembled for
knowledge and enterprise in commercial affairs. Woodrow describes John Spreull
in general terms as an apothecary, but long before the Union he would seem to
have been engaged in an extensive foreign trade, as he mentions in the "Account
current betwixt Scotland and England," pubhshed in 1705, that he had dealt in
pearls for forty years and more, "and yet, to this day, I could never sell a
necklace of fine Scots pearl in Scotland, nor yet fine pendants, the generality
seeking for Oriental peari, because farther fetcht; yet, for commendation of our
own pearl, at this very day I can show some of our own Scots pearl as fme, lucid,
and more transparent than any Oriental; it's true the Oriental can be easier
matcht, because they are all of a yellow water, yet foreigners covet Scots pearl"
Another personal glimpse of John Spreull is presented through a " Representation"

ANDREW MELVILLE IN GLASGOW. 223

in reference to a seat in the Tron Church, wherein mention is made that "in or
about anno 1686, sometime before the late glorious Revolution, I was, in God's
good time and providence, delivered out of my prison in the Bass, and then had
my abode and dwelling-house in Provost Gilson's land, and so consequently I was
a parishioner in the Outer High Church, in which I could never procure a seat
for myself and family until Provost Pedie gave one in anno 1693, for which 1
willingly and duely paid the rent, and kept my own Parish Church, under the
Rev. Mr. Alexander Hastie's ministry, in obedience to the comely Order of
Christ's Church until anno 1700; when I had built my house in the Trongate, by
which I became a parishioner in the late Rev. Mr. Neil Gillies' quarter in the
Tron Church ; after which I tryed for a seat in that church, and often regrated my
want of a seat to my minister, the said Mr. Neil Gillies, while alive, and he
desired me to delay a little ti!l the new church was finished, and then it would be
endeavoured, by the help of the Lord, to amend, rectifie the disorders and
inconveniences in the seats of the kirks, that had been given promiscuously, to
persons of different parishes, contrary to the rule of God's Word, the practice of
purest churches, and contrary to the Acts of our General Assembly." These
" Miscellaneous Writings," by John Spreull, were admirably printed at the University
Press by Mr. Maclehose, illustrated with a number of facsimiles of documents
relating to the imprisonment in the Bass, and a characteristic portrait of the old
merchant, from an original by Sir Godfrey Kneller. Mr. Bums deserves thanks
for his pleasant, dainty little quarto volume.

ANDREW MELVILLE IN GLASGOW.

Grave as the subject is, and scholarly as should be the treatment, it is not easy
to repress a smile when remembering that fuss and folly have before now paid an
unconscious tribute to wisdom by directing the attention of thinking people to

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

some fact or circumstance liable to be overlooked even by those who make
ecclesiastical history a special study. Neither the time, place, nor manner of
bringing such things up may have any sort of appropriateness — it is on most
occasions far otherwise — but none the less a good end through time comes to be
secured. The discussion (1S84) on Andrew Melville's alleged advice to pulldown
the Cathedral as a seat of idolatry may well be lifted from the dusty area of the Tron
Kirk, and looked at in connection with the presence in our City of a University
dignitary rivalled by Buchanan alone among scholars of the Reformation period for
learning and courage. Historically inaccurate as we judge Dr. Burns to be in his
general statement — based on S pott is wood— the assumption prefacing the statement
is still more liable to objection. So far from their being "little doubt" about the
imputed vandalism, it lias been disputed over and over again since Dr. MCrie's
Memoir of Melville appeared; nor even yet, with all the busy search made among
ancient documents, has anything been found corroborative of a statement, not
probably extraordinary in itself, considering the circumstances of the limes, but
made, it must be remembered, so far as known, on the sing'c authority of a keen
and active ecclesiastical opponent — an opponent none the less keen and active
because he had himself been a pupil of Melville's in Glasgow, and undertook
various repairs on the fabric of the Cathedral during his occupancy of the See.
The harshness and even unfairness of Spottiswood lo Melville has been frequently
commented upon by historians and critics, some of his own communion, like
Zouch, going the length of saying that the Archbishop was uniformly unfriendly to
the memory of the great Presbyterian who, more than any other of his later days,
combined the rarest gifts of learning with a spirit of independence, scorning
danger however near, and hostility however powerful. Melville's valiant battle
for the independence of the Kirk as against the State, bigoted and even mistaken
as it may now appear in peaceful times, recalled lo his contemporaries in no
remote manner the mighty pretensions of Hildebrand and Beckct. In answer lo
the charge made by Archbishop Spotliswood — a charge, it should always be re-
membered, otherwise unsupported, and, even if correctly staled, should no more

ANDREW MELVILLE IN GLASGOW. 22$

be measured by present-day feelings or sentiments than tlic Cathedral itself should
be confounded in its decay during Melville's lime with its noble restoration in our
own — the answer to the otherwise unsupported charge is of necessity based mainly
on a kind of negative evidence, but, as will be shown below, on negative evidence
not to be put lightly aside. Bom 1545, only three years after Queen Mary, and
one year before the martyrdom of George Wishart at St. Andrews, Melville was
close on thirty years of age when he accepted an invitation from the General
Assembly, backed by his preceptor Beza, to become Principal of Glasgow
University, an office vacant through the death of Princifwl Davidson, who had
struggled manfully, but with indiflerent success, to save a remnant for learning from
the remorseless plunderers of the old Church. As the professors of the higher
branches had no salaries, but depended on their Church livings for support, the
classes accustomed to gather round such chairs as then existed were broken
up in the strife and well-nigh scattered abroad when Melville arrived at Glasgow
in the autumn of 1574 — only two years after the first Presbyterian minister
obtained a fooling in the City. Willocks had previously officiated as a Protestant,
but Lauder, described as the last Roman Catholic "parson of Glasgow," was
allowed to retain the benefice till his death. Roused into action through his
natural zeal for Reformation principles, Melville selected a number of young men
fairly grounded in the Latin language and introduced them to the knowledge of
Greek, logic, rhetoric, mathematics, and geography, moral and natural philosophy,
history and chronology, Hebrew, Chaldee, and divinity — a course of study
designed to be completed in six years. James Melville, son of Richard, of
Daldovy, and nephew of the Principal, was appointed to the office of "Regent"
or Professor; but, in the course of a year or two, branches of learning were
apportioned to other scholars, and ere the time arrived for closing the second
session the drooping fortunes of the University founded by Bishop TurnbuU were
so far restored that students were preparing for attendance in all parts of the
kingdom. In 1577 a new foundation by Royal Charter was obtained, and a gift
made of the valuable living of Govan— a gift valuable to the Principal— less in a

'5

»*

TBE WMST COUSTRY IN HISTORY.

moKefpeim of view Am btatm it pn« Um^mmm bibc Chmth Cowt* to
ddfecisMe apoK, aMie, ad dbett |be MtdoBeM of «
fM^ Ar MidewM ■ bM Am. Mcbffle i
Mqr be — W m J h ot Si t le enry aoifi fi caboB of Pidacj, and in I
Md It EOabmpi, Mamh, 1575— ibe fint iriiidi bsd ocaned «
ID dHynr— not onlf ipoke m a Pnrfewr of Dmntj agaimt that mode of
toCltmMKiU gotcnHMHt, odl uecJiuc A iDcnber of a (on mit tee sppoiBted
pR^afedie Seoond BotAof Diidplnw: Amid the diwuwioiii tetataae to the j
CoMltaitkm far the Choicfa, Untvcisitj edocatioD recencd a tail ahaie of AS'
AHnntHy'f attemioo, and the revolution to erect a thedo^cal senunaiy vrithm
St Afldmrt led to the removal of Meirille from GUagov. His office of Frindpal
wa« fonnall)' re>i{(aed towarda the end of November, 1580, "with infinite tears
on both tidet, thOK who had at fint misliked and opposed him being forward to
tcttify their regret at hii departure." Isaac Walton, in like manner, alihou^
ditpleaned with the freedom which Melville took with his favourite Church, does
jiuttce to hti talents, judging him as second only to Buchanan, who may be said
to belong to on earlier period, although he died advanced in age two years after
Melville took up his residence in St. Andrews, The time spent in Glasgow, it will
thus be seen, was a few months over six years. The only writing he is known
to have published within thai period was his "Carmen Mosis," a poetical para-
phnuc of the song of Moses, and a chapter of the book of Job, printed in Latin at
Bailc, IS73-

So for as the serious statement made by Archbishop SpotUswood ia concerned,
if the advice lo pull down the Cathedral was ever given at all, it must have been
among the last years of Melville's residence here— probably :s79 — as King James,
bom Mny, 15(17, '" incidcnlalty spoken of as not quite thirteen years of age. The
Archbishop's narrative, written il may be parlly when he filled the See of Glasgow,
to which he was elevated on the death of Archbishop Bethune, 1603, thus
proceeds : — " In Glasgow the nevt spring there happened a little disturbance by
this occasion— The Magistrates of the City, by the earnest dealing of Mr. Andrew

H Melvil

■ build,

ANDREW AfELVlLLE IN GLASGOW.

Melvil and other ministers, had condescended to demolish the Cathedral, and
build, with the material thereof, some little churches in other parts for the ease of
the citizens. Divers reasons were given for it, such as the resort of superstitious
people to do their devotion in that place ; the huge vastness of the church, and
that the voice of a preacher could not be heard by the multitudes that convened
to sermon ; the more commodious service of the people ; and the removing of that
idolatrous monument (so they called it) which was, of all the cathedrals in the
country, only left unruined and in a possibility to be repaired. To do this work a
number of quarricrs, masons, and other workmen were conducted, and the day
assigned when it should take beginning. Intimation being given thereof, and the
workmen, by sound of a drum, warned to go into their work, the crafts of the City,
in a tumult, took armes, swearing, with many oaths, that he who did cast down
the first stone should be buried under it. Neither could they be pacified till the
workmen were discharged by the Magistrates. A complaint was hereupon made
and the principals cited before the Council for insurrection ; where the King, not
as then thirteen years of age, taking the protection of the crafts did allow the
opposition they had made, and inhibited the ministers (for they were the
coraplatners) to meddle any more in that business, saying 'that too many churches
had been already destroyed, and that he would not tolerate more abuses in that
kind.' " So far Spottiswood, as printed in the " Church and State of Scotland " Ity
Spoltiswood Society, vol. ii., p. 258. The reader must remember that the above
tumult, from whatever cause it may have arisen, is not to be confounded with any
excitement which may have been caused by the action of the Royal Commissioners
under the somewhat drastic minute for "purification" of such edifices, passed by
the Reformers in the summer of 1560. It is this earlier throiring out of the
"idolatrous statues of saints" Scott is understood to have made Andrew Fairservicc
describe with such graphic force rather than an occurrence of twenty years later, when
the images had been broken, the shrines rifled, and the fabric itself, much as it
was prized by the City authorities, was fast hastening to decay, apparently through
the poverty rather than the apathy of the people. Spared as the bare walls were

S38

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

at tbe tinie tbrou^ die eanest intercesaoa of the inbabitimts, (he architectatal
glory of the West had, as Sir Walter mentionE, nearly "slipped the girths in gaon
through Biccan rough physic." Indeed the veneration entertained for the old
fobric furnishes the best possible indirect answer to the charge brought against
Melville and the City authorities of bis day. Amid all the troubles which beset our
local magistnites at and for years after the Refonnatioo, few are more creditable
to their enlightened zeal than those relating to watching and maintaining the
Cathedral, of which they then became custodiers. Broken as the very earliest records
are in sequence, those relating to this period are happily preserved in fair con-
dition, and have been printed quite recently (1883) for the Butgh Records Society.
Entries of the kind referred to regarding the Cathedral are so numerous that it is
not easy to accept any statement regarding its proposed demolition in Melville's
time, whether coming from friendly or hostile sources, without having corroborative
evidence either from Council Minutes or Treasurer's Accounts, both of which are
in existence, so far as known, in a complete fonn. But no entiy, direct or indirect,
lends any colour to such a charge. There are, on the other hand, as has been
■aid, many tending to disprove it With a circumstantiality hardly, it must be
admitted, in keeping with pure invention. Archbishop Spottiswood makes mention
of an appeal being made to the Council — presumably the Scottish Privy Council,
although this need not be rashly accepted, the "Council of the King" continuing
to be a term of varj'ing import during the reign of James VI., as it had ever been
from its first appearance in constitutional historj-. Sometimes it was subordinate
to, and sometimes it overawed, three very distinct bodies concerned in the
administration of justice — the Lords of the Articles, the Lords Auditors for
Complaints, and the Court of Session. But if the Archbishop's reference ia to
the Council, as generally understood, here also the Records are silent as to any
such complaint, or any other proceedings connected with the proposed destruction
of the Cathedral A recent volume of the series of Privy Council Records, edited
under the authority of the Lord Clerk-Register by Professor Masson, embraces a
period long anterior and subsequent to that in dispute (1579), and no such

rLORD PROVOST PATRICK COLQUHOVN, LL.D.
case is found recorded. Nor is there, so far as known, any corroboration to
be had from other ecclesiastical historians — say Bishop Keuh or Calderwood,
or from any letter or memoir of the time. However frequently it may have
been repeated, the whole story rests on Spotliswood, and for reasons above
suggested, needs clear confirmation from other sources, especially as the Arch-
bishop himself is known to have interfered without much ceremony in the
election of Glasgow Magistrates.
LORD PROVOST PATRICK COLQUHOUN, LL.D.

Centennial celebrations have now become so common in connection widi
events as well as with individuals, that a fresh occurrence of the kind hardly
calls for more than a passing notice, even although it may combine features
peculiar to both. And yet the presentation to our Chamber of Commerce of
a portrait so suggestive of by-gone days as that of Lord Provost Colquhoun,
LL.D., is of more than ordinary interest, because such events in the nature
of things must be of rare occurrence. The present year (1S83) is the
centenary of the Doctor's magisterial reign, and the centenary also of some of
the useful local institutions originated by him in the course of his long and
active public life. Then Patrick Colquhoun was something more than even 3
Glasgow Magistrate, important as such an honour is justly considered. Serving
his own City well in early life, and held in high esteem by all classes, he removed
to London about middle life, and exercised a power in the police administration
of the Metropolis as salutary at the time as it is likely to be of long continuance.
Faithful and painstaking in discharging the onerous duties of a police magistrate,
Patrick Colquhoun yet found time through his rare gifts of method and applica-
tion to make such contributions to the social, educational, and commercial
questions of his day as might have made a lasting reputation for any writer,

A

devoting his whole time to a single branch of such studies. This latest addition
to the Chamber Gallery has thetefore a double interest, attaching in the first
place to the character of an enlightened philanthropist as represented by the
artist, and to citizens who may worthily desire to emulate his usefulDess.
Patrick Colquhoim started in the race of life with no gifts of fortune beyond
what all may acquire through a moderate education joined to unflagging per-
severance. He was bom, it may be mentioned, in that year of turmoil and
peril, 1745, in the west end of Old Kilpatrick parish, and therefore almost
within the family inheritance of the ancient Colquhoun race. His father, wJio
died at the early age of forty-four, while holding the office of Keeper of Sasinca
for the county of Dumbarton, had been a class-fellow of Tobias Smollett in
the Burgh School, and it was there young Patrick received the first part of
his education. He went to America early in life, pretty much, it may be sur-
mised, on his own account, being an orphan, and, settling in Virginia, conducted
affairs so successfully as to be able to return to Glasgow in a position for
carrying on the business of a merchant when only twenty-one years of age.
Mr. Colquhoun's residence (long since removed) was on the north side of
Argyll Street, nearly opposite the Buck's Head Hotel, and here in 1773 he
took home his young wife, a namesake of his own, and daughter of James
Colquhoun of Kewlands, Provost of Dumbarton, 1783-89. Patrick Colquhoun
was elected Provost of Glasgow on the death of Hugh Wylie, February, 1782,
and about the same time lie was appointed to take a general superintendence
of the Tontine Buildings at the Cross, a project which the Chief Magistrate
is thought to have originated, and certainly promoted with his customary vigour.
The name of Patrick Colquhoun stands first on the list of proprietors for
two shares, in name of his sons, Adam and James, followed by Walter Stirling,
Campbell of Ciathick, and other well-known Glasgow merchants. In the
year of hia Provostship he also obtained a Royal Charter for tJie present
Chamber of Commerce, originated by him to promote and improve such
branches of trade as are peculiar to this country, to establish rules for the

LORD PROVOST PATRICK COLQ.UHOUN, LL.D.

23 1

I

convenience and assistance of foreign and inland traders and manufacturere, to
discuss memorials regarding trade, to assist in procuring redress for trade
grievances, to consider the Com Laws in so far as they affected the industrious
poor, and, in general, to lake cognisance of everything in the least degree
connected with commerce or manufactures. In November, 1789, Mr. Colquhoun
removed with his family to London, mainly for the purpose of promoting a
Scottish trade there. Having, however, composed several popular treatises
on the subject of Police Government, he was, in 1792, when seven police offices
were established, appointed to one of them through the influence of his friend,
Henry Dundas, afterwards Viscount Melville. Three years later he published
a treatise on the Police of the Metropolis, which passed through six editions,
and brought him the honorary degree of LL.D, from Glasgow University.
He was also appointed by the local legislature of the Virgin Islands, in the
West Indies, agent for the colony in Great Britain. In 1800, Mr. Colquhoun
published his important work on the Police of the River Thames, containing
an historical account of the trade of the port of London, and suggesting means
for the protection of the River and adjacent wharves and warehouses. His
plan was afterwards adopted, and a new police office erected at Wapping. As
some acknowledgment of the success of his endeavours to promote the safe naviga-
tion of the Thames, it is mentioned by his biographer that the West India merchants
presented him wiih^^^joo, while the Russian Company voted him a piece of plate
valued at loo guineas. Mr. Colquhoun's early publications in Glasgow, at least
eight in number, had chiefly reference to the cotton trade and the exchange of home
manufactures with foreign countries. While on tlie Police Bench in the
Metropolis he issued "Friendly Advice to the Labouring Poor" {1799); "Police
of the River Thames," already referred to (1800); "Suggestions, drawn up
at the desire of the Lords of Council, for the Encouragement of Soup
Establishments" (1800); "The Duties of a Constable" (1803); "A New
System of Education" (1806); "Indigence," exhlbiring a general view of the
national resources for productive labour (1S06) ; and finally, his largest, if not

aja THE WEST COUNTHY IN HISTORY.

most important work, on "The Population, Wealth, Power, and Resources
of the British Empire in every quarter of the World, including the East Indies "
(4to, 1814), The career of this active, practical philanthropist was closed in
London in April, iDzo, when it was found he had bequeathed the interest of
;^30o for division yearly among poor people of the name of Colquhoun,
residing in the parishes of Dumbarton, Cardross, Bonhill, and Old Kiljjatrick,
not in receipt of parochial relief. Dr. Colquhoun died at his residence, St. James'
Street, Pimlico, and was buried in the Churchyard of St. Margaret's, Westminster,
adjoining the Abbey, A memorial tablet near the west door of the church
(the old parish church of Westminster) makes lengthy mention of Dr. Colquhoun's
varied labours and attainments, the well-merited eulogium concluding by
making mention of his mind as "fertile in conception, kind and benevolent
in disposition, bold and persevering in execution."

SHERIFF ALISON.

Time, exercising its usual influence, has smoothed down many asperities arising
out of controversies in which Sir Archibald Alison was concerned as a poliUcian
or historian. Dead now (Dec., 1882) for over fifteen years, it is pleasant to
brush aside opinions on social questions, erroneous as we thought them at
the time, although held with unflinching sincerity, and think only of the im-
partial painstaking Judge, the industrious author, the high-minded accomplished
gentleman. Parliamentary Reform, the Currency, the Corn Laws, and even
Education, have all moved from the lines for which Sir Archibald battled with
unwearied persistence, but years us they roll on have in no way lessened the
justly high reputation of the courageous magistrate whom neither conspirators
nor rioters could intimidate. The two new handsome volumes, modestly

SHERIFF ALISON.

m

St) led "Some Account of my Life and Writings," edited with much intelligent
discretion by the present Lady Alison, proceeds on the principle now widely
recognised, that an author who has met with any degree of success owes a
brief account of his career, on private as well as public grounds— to the family,
that his memory may not be injured after death, as happened on a recent memo-
rable occasion, by the indiscreet zeal of surviving friends or the injudicious
rfisclosures of partial biographers; to his country, that readers may know by
what means success was obtained, and how often it falls to those who apply
themselves with industry to such task as they undertake. Sir Archibald Alison
would appear never to have kept a "Journal," in the ordinary sense of the
term, but when he died in May, 1867, he left in manuscript an Autobiography
written at various times of leisure from 1851, and which was complete from
his earliest years to the close of his literary career in 1863. Avoiding all
appearance of vanity, no part of the "Autobiography" was to be published
or even to be shown to any one during Sir Archibald's life. His primary
object, as explained by himself, was to convey to future times, if the work
should live so long, a faithful portrait of the eventful period in which he lived
and of the many eminent persons he had met during a long and varied life.
By his will the Sheriff constituted his eldest son, now famous as General Sir
Archibald Alison, his literary executor, and expressed a wish that the work
should be printed at as early a period as might be deemed advisable, A few
years ago it was thought the time had arrived when this might be done, but
the nature of the younger Sir Archibald's military profession would appear
never to have left him the quiet and leisure necessary to revise the manuscript
The task was therefore undertaken by his wife, Lady Alison, and executed
with much fidelity, as a labour of love. Son of the Rev. Archibald, a clergyman
of the Church of England, author of two volumes of Sermons, but still more
widely known for his finished "Essay on Taste," and connected through his
mother with the memorable Edinburgh family of Gregory, the Sheriff's very
early days, or from his birth in 1793 till tSoo, were passed in the parsonage

THE WEST COUNTR Y IN HISTORY.

of Kenley, Shropshire. Chiefly for the purpose of securing a sound education
for the family, his father, during the last-mentioned year, accepted the post
of senior minister in the Episcopal Chapel, Cowgate, Edinburgh, and at the
University there some years later study for the law was carried on till he passed
as advocate in December, 1S14. In the spring of that year the future historian
made his first Continental trip, in company with P. F. Tytler and David
Anderson of Moredun, and, although many years was to elapse before publica-
tion, it was the military displays in Paris during its occupation by the Allies
which suggested the voluminous "History of Europe during the French Revolu-
tion," Earlier works were an anti-Malthusian Treatise on the Law of Population,
and a useful book on the Criminal Law of Scotland, published in 183a. With
a fair professional connection from the commencement of his career, official
promotion naturally followed, his friend Sir William Rae, the Tory Lord-Advocate,
bestowing on Alison in 1822 a Deputeship, which he held till 1830, when the
Wellington Ministry was defeated on a division regarding the Civil List. The
connection with "Blackwood" began with the first of a series of papers on the
French Revolution, January, 1831. The appointment to the Sheriffship of
Lanarkshire was made in 1834, during the period of Sir Robert Peel's first
but short-lived Ministry,

A domestic interest surpassing anything connected with either the Sheri&hip
or the Baronetcy centered in two sons while on their first active service in the
Crimea with the 72nd Highlanders, under Sir Colin Campbell as General of
Division. The first interview of Captain, now General Sir Archibald, with
Sir Colin is told graphically enough. Uncertain one night where to place hia ,
men in the trenches, he politely solicited instructions from his General, who '
was met by accident. "Don't ask me," replied Sir Colin; "I don't even
know where I am." " Oh," resumed Captain Alison, " I think I can show
you where you are," and with these words he drew from his breast a drawing
of the trenches which he had copied in the inside of an envelope. Having
pointed out the locality and placed his men, Sir Colin, after a little further

SHERIFF ALISON. 235

conversation, said — "Well, Sir, you seem to be a sensible fellow; come to my
chateau at two in the morning, when all is quiet, and we will have some talk."
Captain Alison naturally complied, and found the GeneraUs chateau to be a
little hollow in the earth, just capable of holding two or three persons, in the
middle of the trenches occupied by the Highlanders. They remained there
for a short time in the dark, talking of the siege, and then separated to return
to their respective duties. Captain, soon after to be Major Alison, accompanied
Lord Clyde as military secretary during the Indian Mutiny, and was present at
the relief of Lucknow, where he lost his left arm.

Projected, as has been mentioned, so early as 1814, it was not till fifteen
years later that the composition of the "History," the great literary labour of
Sir Archibald's life, was seriously begun. The first volumes appeared in 1839,
the last of the Revolution set in 1842, the planning and writing thus extending
over twenty-^ight years, or five years longer than Gibbon devoted to his " Roman
Empire." When Su: Archibald had completed his last page, far into a summer
morning at Fossil, the words of Gibbon on a similar occasion, in the summer-
house at Lausanne, naturally enough recurred to his mind — not that the books
were to be compared with each other, but he felt that his labour had been
pursued with as much perseverance, and had been the source of at least equal
pleasure. Sir Archibald's work was generally accepted as upon the whole a
valuable addition to European literature, such defects as were manifested being
rather matters of taste and political opinion than literal inaccuracies, although
there was no lack of these in the early editions. So far as the expression of
political opinion was concerned, some readers approved, others overlooked
them, and even the most fastidious admitted that it did not materially interfere
with the great plan of the work. Its merits were admitted for minuteness and
honesty — qualities which were accepted as a reasonable excuse for even a faulty
style, strong political prejudices, and exaggerated declamation. His narrative
of war operations especially were admitted to be not only minute and spirited,
but to display considerable scientific knowledge. The different battlefields.

S36 THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

it was Tcmarked, had been surveyed with the feeling of an artist and the pre-
cision of a tactician. A strong and manly sympathy with militaiy devotion
never blinded Sir Archibald to the sufferings inflicted by war, but pennitled
him always to give wann and impartial praise to every brave action on what-
ever side.

Wordy the " History " was no doubt found to be, and wordy, too, many
wondered, with less variety In expression than might have been expected from
Sir Archibald's long literary experience. The same defect frequently crops up
in the "Autobiography." In the "Continuation" almost every statesman
referred to is somewhat unnecessarily described as a "remarkable man." Thus,
"Lord Grey was beyond all doubt a most remarkable man." Daniel O'Connell
is " a very remarkable man." Lord Eldon is " one of the most remarkable men
who ever sat on the woolsack." Thiers is "undoubtedly a very remarkable
man." Louis XVIIL is "undoubtedly a very remarkable man." Then
Canning's talents for business and debate "were of the very first order."
Palmerston's talents for diplomacy and administration "are unquestionably of a
very high order." And so fond had the historian become of the phrase, or so
expressive did he deem it, that it is used with reference to the same statesman
a second time on the same page. Lord Melbourne alone hardly comes up to
Sir Archibald's standard, or at least only in a hypothetical sense, as " if his
talents were not of a very high order." In like manner the " Autobiography "
sets down what is no doubt quite true, but not needing expression, that the
Marchioness of Londonderry was "a very remarkable woman." Dr. Whewell
was "a man of very great abilities." Sir Henry Rawlinson is "a very remark-
able man." Monckton Milnes, only a page or two onward, is also " a remark-
able man." Lord Palmerston turns up again as "one of the most remarkable
men of the age." Mr. Secretary Walpole is also "a superior man." A con-
versation with the Princess Mary of Cambridge was "very remarkable." Lord
Provost Clouston is another man of "remarkable intelligence." The Hon. Mr.
Vernon and the late Colin Campbell, Colgrain, are each simply " superior " men.

SHERIFF ALISON.

nl

But John Hope was a "remarkable man," as was also Professor Wilson and
Duncan M'Neill ; and so on through both volumes, till we come to poor l.ord
Elgin, ■< although not a man of very remarkable talents."

Apart from Interlocutors, and some were so elaborate and interesting as
almost to reach the dignity of literature, the chief book-work engaged in by
Sir Archibald in his later years is represented by the volumes making up the
"Continuation" of the "History" from the battle of Waterloo to the accession
of the Emperor Napoleon III., the early volumes of which were issued in 1853;
and the lives of the half-brothers, Castlereagh and Londonderry, completed
ia i86r. The first added little or nothing to his fame as historian of the
"Wars of the Revolution," being, indeed, frequently spoken of as a "Book of
Fallacies" and exploded political crotchets. Nor did the second fare much
better, Castlereagh himself being an unpopular subject since the power of the
people has become a iacL The Marquis, in his prime one of the most dashing
cavalry officers who ever served under Wellington, was latterly known as an
unsuccessful diplomatist, a vain, fussy statesman, and might have been forgotten
altogether had it not been for Seaham harbour, docks, and railway, in which
the Murat of the British army exhibited all the enterprise and shrewdness of
a Sunderland skipper. The preparation of the Londonderry volumes led Sir
Archibald on more than one occasion to Wjnard and Seaham, the first, in addition
to its famous Ghost Story, having suffered more from fire in recent days than
any mansion of its kind; the second, purchased from Mr. Mitbanke, father of
Lady Byron, the marriage of the poet having taken place within the modest
mansion on the estate. Although the Marchioness of Londonderry was, as
Sir Archibald records, a "remarkable" woman, even when she was an "infant"
but wealthy ward in Chancery, he admits that he never was able to divest himself
of a certain degree of awe, or feel altogether at ease in her company. While
there is much — rather too much — in the "Autobiography" regarding visits to
great people and great houses, all readers will peruse with pleasure the graphic
details given by one who not only saw but took part in suppressing the Cotton-

»38

THE WEST COUNTRY m HISTORY.

spinners' Corobioation, the Glasgow riots of 1848, the lesser Briggate rising
concerning the Stone Pulpit, and, indeed, who was familiar with all the ups
and downs of Glasgow life, from the passing of the Reform Bill to a period
even beyond the trial of Mrs. M'Lachlan, in which he was concerned, and
describes. Every reader of the "Autobiography" will turn over its pages with
pleasure, not only because it records the opinion and the experience of a careful
observer, or even because he was a painstaking and intelligent Judge.Jjut because
they will see therein retlectcd a generous appreciation of politicians who differed
from him in thought, as his fine review of Macaulay's "History" still bears

GRAHAM OF THE MINT.

Latest and, to all present appearances, last scientific Master of the Mint, Thomas
Graham was also the last of that brilliant group of inquirers who did so much to
reveal the wonders of chemical science during the first half of the present
century. Berzelius, given to Sweden in 1779, one year after the death of his
illustrious countryman, l.innKus, was spared to carry on his researches till Graham
had established for himself a world-wide reputation, first in the Andersonian
Institution here, as successor to Ure, and afterwards in University College,
London, as the successor of Professor Edward Turner. Bom in 1805, Graham
was busy with experiments when Davy was called away ia 1S29 at the early age
of fifly-ooe. Dahon, bom in 1766, was spared till he reached seventy-eight; while
Faraday was only five years younger when he died in 1867, two years before hia
friend Graham, then Master of the Mint in succession to Sir John Herschel. Clerk-
Maxwell, a friend and favourite with all the scientific men of his day, was cut
off Nov., 1879, at the early age of forty-eight, while his successor in the new

GRAHAM OF THE MINT.

339

Laboratory at Cambridge, Lord Rayleigh, president of the British Association,
vasbom so recently as 1843. Graham's friend and pupil, Dr. Young of Kelly,
who died only last year (1883}, was spared till he had reached seventy-two. Without
making an^ pretensions to having been a discoverer herself, but justly esteemed
as a profound inteqireter of researches made by others, the case of Mary
Sonierville, who showed so wisely the " Connection of the Physical Sciences,"
remains still without a ijarallel so far as age and menial activity is concerned.
This good lady, known in youth as " The Rose of Jedwood," did not commence
publishing till she was near fifty, when Brougham induced her to undertake a
translation of Laplace's "Mecanique Celeste." Mrs. Somcrvillc lived till she was
ninety-two, her brilliant intellect remaining so vigorous that at the age of eighty
she sent out her famous treatise on that science of molecules which Graham had
ecolved with so much patience and ingenuity. Fascinating beyond the dreams of
romance as have been the discoveries made during the present century by
Graham and his brother scientists, it must be remembered at the same time
that they had a long line of predecessors, and are certain to have many after
them fitted by careful training lo pass on the torch of knowledge. As it is
impossible to eliminate altogether some notice of astrology in the history of
astronomy, so the early alchemists must be accepted as in some way preparing
the ground for our modern Wollastons, Stahls, Liebigs, and Lavoisiers. Earlier
even than the alchemists of the Middle Ages, earlier even than the introduction of
the Christian Era, Lucretius was speculating with much ingenuity and accuracy
concerning that atomic theory with which Graham's name is now so closely
associated, "Sunt igitur solida primardia simplicitate," &c, writes the poet in
his first book of Nature— all primordial bodies are solid in their simplicity, and
consist of the smallest parts closely united, not combined by a union of others,
but rather endowed with eternal simplicity.

Younger than Graham by twelve years, one of his most distinguished
followers was the late Dr. Angus Smith of alkali fame, who shortly before his
death in the spring of 1883 put together for the Graham Lecture Committee

»4»

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

of the Glasgow PhiIosoi>hical Society a brief memoir of bis M^nd, full of
suggestive matter concerning investigations pureaed by the Master of (be MinL
Kngaged in prq>2ring the paper as a lecture to be deliveied by himself before
Ihc Philosophical Society, Dr. Angus Smith was seized with his fatal illness,
but contrived amid much feebleness and effort to get the manuscript sent on
here, where it was read to members by Professor Ferguson. The title, " Ijfe
and Workg," is only correct in a modified sense. Tlie "Life" is admitted to be
but fragmentary in character, while "Works" rather indicate work accomplished
than present Graham's researches at length. The special value of the memoir
centres in the sixty-four letters hitherto unpublished, furnished by Dr. Smith,
and addressed by Graham for the most part to relatives at home— his mother,
sisters, and brother— although one or two of exceptional interest connect them-
selves with Liebig and Professor Johnston of Durham University. Here is a
pleasant glimpse flashed to his sister Margaret, from K<5chlin's Laboratory, at
Muthauscn, Alsace — "We found here the excellent chemist Schlomberger, who
has written the best papers on madder. The chemist was throng at work in
his blouse coat and wooden clogs. Kochlin is himself a most interesting
person. By the way, C. Thomson is studying with him ; he has a high
opinion of Waller Cnim, and pronounces him, now that James Thomson is
getting old, the most accomplished printer we have in England. The afternoon
we devoted to Mr. Hoffer's own establishment; John finds them exceedingly
communicative, and they seem to show us everything without reserve. He
thinks that he has already att^uned the most important objects of his mission,
and that he will be able on returning to produce the beautiful madder rose-
reds for which Alsace is famed, so that the journey will not be lost" Again,
and also to his sister, a ftw years earlier, when in Edinburgh — "The gingerbread
was excellent Mr. Johnston got away the last of it as a supply for his Durham
journey, thinking greatly of it from the scientific principles upon which it had
been baked." A prince of chemists in his laboratory, out of it Graham's life
glided on in the most uneventful manner, and may be condensed within the

GRAHAM OF THE MINT.

a4t

I

compass of a few lines. Bom in Glasgow, December, 1805, he passed first to

a preparatory school, then to the High School, when he was nine years of age,

and in 1819 to the University, where he remained seven years, taking his M.A,

degree in 1826. Graham was originally intended for the Church, but strong

predilections for a scientific career, especially as a chemist, caused him to

shape out a path for himself, much to the grief of his father, a merchant of

good position, who, not knowing much about the aims or scope of science,

may have been prejudiced in his judgment. From Glasgow the young student

proceeded to Edinburgh, where his scientific inquiries were carried on under

Dr. Hope.

Graham's progress afterwards may be thus indicated :— Lecturer on Chemistry

in the Mechanics' Institute; Professor in Andersonian Institution, 1830; succeeded

Dr. Turner in Chemical Chair of University College, London, 1837; Chairman

of Chemical Section, British Association {Birmingham), 1839; first President

of Chemical Society of London, 1841; Master of the Mint, 1855. It was

in Glasgow under the skilful teaching of Dr. Thomson, that Graham first

applied himself to chemistry as a science, for, however much his boyish mind

may have been attracted by the wonders of experiment, Dr. Smith believes

that it was at a very early age Graham began seriously to consider the

recondite laws of matter. In 1836 a paper was prepared by him on the

absorption of gases by liquids, and his shrewdness and calm mode of speculation

were as apparent at twenty-one as at any time of his after life. He supposed,

for example, that absorption and liquefaction of gases are regulated by the same

fimdamental properties. Three years later (1829), lie succeeded in demonstrating

what has come to be known as Graham's Law — that the diflusion of gases is

inversely as the square root of their density. Other rapid discoveries regarding

the nature and movement of gases and liquids soon placed Graham alongside

the foremost chemists of his day. In addition to many delicate experiments

connected with the gold coinage, much time was devoted by the new Master

of the Mint to the issue of a bronze coinage as a substitute for the once familiar

16

a4a THE WEST COUNTRY JN HISTORY.

copper pieces. When Graham died in September, 1869, the Mastership of
the Mint was not filled up, the coinage Act of next year providing for the title
passing to the Chancellor of the Exchequer for the time being, the practical duties
connected with the office falling to be discharged by the Deputy-Master. In
this way an end came to be put to an office which had been filled by the most
illustrious men of science from the days of Sir Isaac Newton, who called in
the vitiated coinage of his time, till Thomas Graham, who, in his own department
of physics, was no way overshadowed by the universal fame of even the great
astronomer. In addition to the text of the "Life," made up as indicated,
there is an appendix in the shape of "Critical Remarks," written by Dr. Smith,
and originally prefixed to the "Physical Researches of Thomas Graham,"
printed for private circulation eight years since by himself and Dr. James Young
of Kelly. A photographic portrait conveys a pleasing impression of Graham's
mild and retiring yet happy disposition, although even in these points it does
not surpass Brodie's fine statue in our Square, where the seated figure of the
great chemist (presented to the City by Mr. Young), and almost within earshot
of that useful Institution where he filled his first professorial chair, fitly matches
with Chantrey's wonderful delineation of the great engineer on the opposite or
western comer.

GENERAL ROY OF CARLUKE.

Forming, as it now does, the basis for most surveys within Great Britain and the
foundation also for all reliable maps, whatever scale it may be found necessary
to use, the Annual Official Survey Report just sent out in the form of a Parlia-
mentary Blue-book, suggests matter for reSection involving wider issues than the
usual duty of simply noting what progress has been made with this great national
undertaking. A hundred years (in 1884) has just run out since General Roy,

GENERAL ROY OF CARLUKE. 243

ihen a Colonel of Engineers, took the first real sdentific step in the enterprise,
by laying down, under command of His Majesty, the famous basis line of
triangulation on Hounslow Heath. Little being known of General Roy earlier
than what touches the busy middle-age portion of his life, time may not be
thought lost in setting down a few words concerning an officer who was at once
the foremost surveyor of his day, eminent beyond most in mathematical studies,
and, so far as Scotland was concerned, the father of geodetic science. Our
West Country has special reason for feeling proud of its connection with a scholar
who would have been great had he done nothing more than initiate the
Ordnance Survey and write "The Military Antiquities of the Romans in
Britain." The son of an intelligent grieve, who combined the duties of factor
with that of gardener on the estate of Hamilton of Hallcraig, Carluke parish,
William Roy was bom al Milton-head, 4lh May, 1726. Carluke village at the
time was in a slate of chronic decay. Small as the place was in the eariy days
of Charles H., a charter was obtained in the second year after the Restoration,
erecting it into a btirgh of barony under the name of KirkstyJe. Any improving
influences that might be supposed likely to spring from such an increase of dignity
would appear to have operated for only a short time, as at the birth of Roy the
burgh comprised little more than the parish church, the manse, and a very few
cottages. The population of the entire parish, ministered to in things spiritual
by the Rev. James Dick, was not much, if anything, over 1,460. The latest
census return (1881) gives the parish population at 8,552. In Roy's early days
the working of iron and coal which has made the district so prosperous, and it
may be even said famous, in the annals of industry was on the most limited scale.
Even cotton weaving, which first raised the drooping fortunes of the place, was all
but unknown. Only a very little is known concerning Roy's early education or
pursuits. It may be surmised, however, in a general way that he devoted con-
siderable attention to engineering studies before obtaining a commission in the
army as lieutenant in or about 1741. His brother. Dr. Roy, was born in the
same parish.

344 THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

The Rebellion of 1745 lirst brought Roy into notice as an engineei and
surveyor. After the "rising" had been stamped out in blood by Cumberland,
at CuUoden, in April of the following year, Government became more alive than
before as to the necessity of exploring and laying open a country so diOicult
of access as the Highlands of Scotland. It was determined, therefore, to cany
Toads through the most remote recesses, and establish efficient military posts
along the entire line. In this way it came about that the first methodical
operations for a military survey of Great Britain took place at the distant point
of Fort Augustus, in 1747. Genera! Watson, Quartermaster- General to Lord
Blakeney, was encamped in ihe fort at the lime, and by this officer the Highland
survey, afterwards known as "Cumberland's Map," was entrusted to his junior
officer. Colonel Roy. Although the original intention would not appear to
have embraced more than the Highlands, yet the surveyor gradually found his
way into the Lowlands, and even along the more important coast lines. The
field work was carried on in summer, and the drawings, on the scale of one
inch and three-quarters to a mile, prepared during the winter in Edinburgh Castle.
At the end of eight years the undertaking was advancing, but far from finished;
and when it was then suspended, Colonel Roy admitted that the survey, having
been carried on with inferior instruments, and the sum allowed very inadequate
for its proper execution, it ought rather ta be looked on as a fair military sketdl I
than an accurate map of the country. The breaking out of the war in 1756—
war waged against France in America, in India, and on the high seas — scattered
the surveyors, and called away from Scotland such engineers and foot soldiers
as could be spared. The Highlands for the time being crushed into peace,
the survey drawings were consigned to the Royal Library, unusually rich in
such collections, as any one may see by a glance at the formidable row of cases
in the British Museum, and there they lay, almost neglected, while geographers
like Ainslie were making private independent surveys, instead of perfecting,
as they might have done, the work of Roy. Even in the face of colonial troubles
the scheme of a national survey was brought up 'in Parliament from time to

GENERAL ROY OF CARLUKE. 245

time; and at length, in 1763, Government undertook lo propose a money vote
in aid. Yet even preliminaries were not finally settled for twenty years, or
in 1783, when Roy was engaged in measuring on his own account a base of
7744"3 feet across the fields between the Jewsharp, Marybone, and Black Lane,
near St. Pancras, as a foundation for a series of triangles carried on at the same
time, for determining the relative situations of the most remarkable steeples, and
other places in and about London, with regard to each other and the Royal
Observatory at Greenwich. Some little time before this a correspondence had
been going on between the Count d'Adhemar and Mr. Fox as lo the advantage
which would accrue to astronomical science by carrying a series of triangles from
the neighbourhood of London to Dover, there to be connected with the triangu-
lalion already executed in France. The King approved of the design, and agreed
lo share the cost with the Royal Society, thai body having taken a lively interest
from the first in all the proceedings, Roy was thereupon summoned to Windsor,
and instructed by the King to commence the survey. His first step was the
measurement of that now historical base-line on Hounslow Heath (5'i9 miles)
— measurements, it has been found, so careful that no essential error has been
discovered by the most rigid scrutiny of modem surveyors. The great three-
foot theodolite, constructed for the occasion by the optician Ramsden, after
being carried up the highest mountains, placed on the pinnacles of our loftiest
churches, and shipped to distant islands, is still in daily use, and as perfect as
when it left the hands of its cunning constructor. Ramsden, indeed, made
his instrument something more than a theodolite. It is also a quadrant and
transit instrument, and capable of measuring horizontal angles to fractions of
a second. To the same ingenious optician is also due the invention of the
survey measuring chain, superseding at once the varying deal-rod, and rivalling
even the glass-rods as a measuring line.

The importance of the base-line in triangulation, for the purpose of calculating
unknown distances, is stated with as much simpliciiy as the subject permits, by
the writer of an article on the "Cadastral Survey" in the "Edinburgh Review,"

946

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

vol. ii8. In substance it is this: If tlie distance between two given points is
accurately known, all that is necessary, in order to ascertain the distance of any
point that can be seen from both of them, is to observe successively from each
end of the known base, the angle subtended by the other end of the base and
the point to be determined. The length of the unknown sides may then be
calculated by the formula of plane trigonometry, and the distances so determined
become, in their turn, bases for the determination of fresh unknown distances.
By constantly constructing new triangles on the sides successively determined,
the whole country is at last covered by stations, the positions of which are known
with the nicest accuracy. The whole of the principal triangulation which has
consumed so many years of anxious toil, has been simply a series of repetitions
of this proceeding. The simplest instruments will suffice to do this work
roughly — the levels, the screws, the verniers, the reading microscopes of the
theodolite, are only inventions to secure precision otherwise unattainable. To
secure approximate accuracy would be easy enough, but lo do it in such a way
that the whole area of Great Britain — nearly raa,ooo square miles — no point
fixed by the triangulation shall be more than three, or at most four, inches out
of its true position, involved an amount of care and calculation not easy to
be imagined. The greatest inaccuracy which can possibly be laid to the charge
of one of the modem Ordnance Survey Maps, is far smaller than the breadth of
the finest line that the engraver can make upon the copper plate — smaller even
than the discrepancy discoverable in two measurements on the same map on
two successive days, when some variation of temperature has stretched or
contracted the paper on which it is printed.

Working in hannony with the French surveyors, General Roy proceeded
at once to carry his series of triangles from Hounslow lo the coast of Kent
and Sussex, and from thence westward to the Land's End. At his lamented
death (to be afterwards referred to) in ijgo, the burden of the work fell on
Captain Mudg^ of the Royal Artillery, and Isaac Dalby. Their "Account"
of the Trigonometrical Survey contributed to the "Philosophical Transactions,"

.1

GENERAL ROY OF CARLUKE.

=47

and published separately, 1799, was long ihe standard work of autliority 00
the interesting project with which they were so thoroughly acquainted. Among their
earliest proceedings was to test anew, with most satisfactory results, the original
Hounslow measurement, and to lay down a new base line on Salisbury Plain of
36,574-4 feet. This new line, on being triangulated in due course with Hounslow,
was found not to vary more than an inch from the actual measurement made on
the Plain. A third base was more recently laid down at Lough Foyle, primarily
in connection with the Irish Sun-ey, but with the extremely pleasing secondaiy
result that, in tracking across the country for the purpose of determining what
ought to be the Salisbury base, the discrepancy with actual measurement was found
to be not more than four inches and a-half in a distance of over four hundred
miles. It is now possible to measure an arc of parallel extending from Valentia,
on the south-west coast of Ireland, to the town of Orsk, on the extreme east of
European Russia, the longest ever likely to he measured.

The ingenious contrivances for perfecting the undertaking devised by General
Roy are endless, and can only be referred to here by a brief example or two.
Mention has aheady been made of the deal rods, glass tubes, and steel chains
used to secure accuracy in measurement But the expansion and contraction of
glass, as well as iron, introduced an element of doubt in the nicer calculations;
and, although it was known that the rate of expansion might be ascertained and
allowed for, provided the exact temperature of the bar all through was ascertained
at the time of observation, yet this could not always be done in out-door work.
Availing himself of the ascertained principle that, while metals contract or expand
differently at varying temperatures, they always bear to each other the same pro-
portion, Colonel Colby solved the difficulty by clamping together a bar of iron
and a bar of brass of the same length at a given temperature, with silver plates
let in to transverse bars for the purpose of marking certain immovable points,
Again, the heliostat, or revolving mirror, familiar now to newspaper readers from
its use by the armies in Afghanistan and Egypt, is in constant use by Ordnance
surveyors for flashing from point to point a knowledge of relative positions, even

THE WEST COUNTR Y IN BTSTOR K

although the extremities mif;ht be one hundred miles apart. Then it is necessary
to make the triangulation all over the kingdom consistent with itself— that is to
sa7, that the sum of the three angles in every triangle should be iSo degrees,
and the sum of all the angles round every station 360 degrees. Three unknown
quantities in an equation is generally considered a near enough approximatioQ to
the truth. The intrepid calculators of the Ordnance Sunxy face the solution of
equation with thirty-six unknown quantities.

The principal triangulation of the kingdom commenced, as we have seen,
by Roy in 1784, was carried on at intervab till 1858, when it may be said to
have been praaically completed. This survey was extended to Scotland in r3o9,
and continued with several breaks till 1813, when it was suspended for fifteen
years. The sun'cy is now finished, and maps on the 6-inch scale have been
published of the whole country, and for the most part also on the 25-inch
scale. The useful i-inch map is far advanced in two styles — contours only, and
hills. Nearly all towns and populous places have been issued on the 5-feet or
lo-feet scale. Regarding the battle of the "Scales," fought in the House of
Commons for over twelve years — 1851-63 — with a pertinacity hardly surpassed
by the battle of the " Guns," it is neither seasonable nor necessary to enlarge on
now or here. Nor can further room be occupied by any description of the
delicalc processes employed before maps can be submitted to the public for
acceptance in all their beautiful and accurate details. To the present Director
of the survey, Sir Henry James, R.E., belongs the high honour — first, of
connecting the triangulation of the United Kingdom with France and Belgium ;
second, calling in the aid of, and almost inventing, the art, known as
Photozincography, by which the maps, with all their delicate outlines, are
transferred through a simple method to such a permanent surface as has given
us the best copies yet produced of many precious ancient records — Domesday-
Book, Saxon Charters, and the most suggestive " National Stale Papers,"
illustrating the history of England, Scotland, and Ireland.

Mention has been made of the remarkable caie taken to preserve General

GENERAL ROY OF CARLUKE, 249

Roy's wonderfol Theodolite. With another of his survey in^'entions Fortune wis
less (avomable; his Standard Yard, used for measuring the Hounslow base line,
and afterwards placed in Exchequer Chambers^ Westminster, being burnt in the
great fire whidi in October, 1834, consumed the Houses of Parliament In this
case a Royal Commission on Weights and Measures had luckily provided some
years earlier that, if the General's standard measure was lost, it would be lawful to
renew it by means of the length of the seconds pendulum. General Roy's death
was of startling suddenness. Having prepared for the Royal Society, by command
of the King, an elaborate series of papers concerning the exact latitude of
Greenwich and Paris Observatories, he was revising the printed sheets at home
after a day's work in the office, June 30, 1790, when he was seized with an illness
of which he died in two hours. Besides being a Major-Geneml, at this time the
great military engineer was Deputy Quartermaster-General, Colonel of the 30th
Foot, Surveyor-General of Coasts and Batteries, and a Fellow of the Royal
Society, as well as of the Society of Antiquaries. In 1793 the latter learned body
issued the GeneraTi '' Military Antiquities" as a posthumous volume, folio,
profusely illtistrated with drawings. One year after his measurement of the
Hounslow line a paper on the subject, contributed to "Transactions of the Royal
Society," secured to V^cry the Copley gold medaL The most eminent mathemati-
cians of his day^Ivory and \a%\\c among the rest — did not fail to do justice to
his great merits, nothing more censorious being written of him than that he had
somehow failed to appreciate to its full extent a theorem first propounded by his
fnend Adrian Legendre, the theorem being to the effect that, if each of the
angles of a small spherical triangle be diminished by one-third of the spherical
excess, the sines of the angles thus diminished will be vety nearly proportional to
the length of the sides themselves; so that the computations with respect to such
spherical triangles may be made by the rules of plane trigonometry. Aided by this
theorem, drawn from the newer mathematics, it was thought that General Roy
might have simplified many of his calculations, and in the case of a few — only a
very few-^been more exact than he arrived at by the old system of calculation.

aso THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

Still, it was universally admitted that General Roy possessed a strong and vigorous
understanding; was an excellent draughtsman, and a profound natural philosopher,
as was abundantly established in his paper on the measurement of heights by the
barometer, printed in the " Philosophical Transactions," 1777. Nor was it judged
to be less to the General's credit that he pursued his abstruse studies at a time
when the British army afforded few instances of the kind either to encourage
him by example or rouse him by emulation, and when the connection between
mathematical science and his military art was but imperfectly understood.

BURNS AND "HIGHLAND MARY."

Burns incense is now offered up with such profusion each January as to make
the poet's joke about his own reputation rather a matter of history than
prophecy. Writing to his friend, Gavin Hamilton, on the occasion of the first
Edinburgh visit, he remarks — "I am in a fair way of becoming as eminent as
Thomas i, Kempis or John Bunyan, and you may expect henceforth to see
my birth-day inserted among the wonderful events In the Poor Robin's and
Aberdeen Almanacs along with the Black Monday and the Battle of Bothwell
Bridge," Popularity naturally incites inquiry, and many occurrences turn up
for discussion which in lesser or more obscure reputations would be allowed to
pass unnoticed. One of the unconscious services rendered by the warm admirers
of Bums is the inquiry they compel into facts and surmises associated with
his life, and so establishing more or less of what is clearly historic. The poet's
connection with "Highland Mary" has long had an interest of this kind for
plodding inquirers — an interest in no degree lessenerl, but rather strengthened,
by a mystery Burns has himself thrown around the story, quite out of keeping
with his usual candour in such affairs. The attachment has been described as
the purest and most elevated ever formed by the poet, and the songs iu praise j

BURNS AND "HIGHLAND MARY:'

=5'

of the simple Highland girl are justly ranked among the most finished efforts
of his muse. The "banks and braes and streams around the Castle o'
Montgomery" has become classic ground to thousands who never heard of the
wooded slopes of Parnassus; Doon has been found more inspiring than Castaly;
and to the Coilsfield dairymaid has been vouchsafed an immortality rivalling
the Laura of Petrarch or the Beatrice of Dante. On her merits and her fame
public opinion has long since set ils seal. It is so far as the subject touches
the poet that it has an interest for inquirers. Recent research would almost
lead to the conclusion that the "Highland Mary" attachment, instead of
being a thing standing apart in the poet's life as a permanent or earnest
feeling, was but an episode in a wider domestic drama — only an accident—
almost the accident of an accident. Bums may be permitted in the first instance
to tell the story in his own way. In the course of a few notes on some of the
Scottish songs printed in the "Museum," prepared for his neighbour the Laird
of Friars' Carse some time after 1788 — probably about 1794— the poet writes
of the "Highland Lassie" as "a composition of mine in very early life before
I was at all known to the world. My Highland lassie was a warm-hearted,
charming young aeature as ever blest a man with generous love. After a
pretty long tract of the most ardent reciprocal attachment we met by appointment
on the second Sunday of May in a sequestered spot on the banks of Ayr, where
we spent the day in taking a farewell before she should embark for the West
Highlands to arrange matters among her friends for our projected change of
life. At the close of autumn she crossed the sea to met me at Greenock,
where she had scarce landed when she was seized with a malignant fever before
I could even hear of her illness." In a similar strain the poet wTites to Thomson
in 1792, enclosing the song "Will you go to the Indies, my Maty?" "In my
very early years, when I was thinking of going to the West Indies, I look the
following farewell of a dear girl." It is now necessary to set down a few dates,
in order to avoid being misled by the poet's phrases about " very early life,"
and "very early years." It is known to all acquainted in even a slight degree

953

TtJE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

with the life of Bums, that the West Indies project occupied his mind only once,
and that was in the summer of 1786, when the Kilmarnock edition of his
poems was passing through the press, and when — and this bears closer on the
inquiry — when Jean Armour's father was threatening the hapless bard with
the terrors of a jail in order to compel him to provide for liis illegitimate
offspring. Burns at this time could hardly be described as very young. He
had quite completed twenty-seven on his last birth-day— not an early age in
affairs of gallantry for him who, at seventeen, addressed " Handsome Nell "
to his girl neighbour in the harvest field. If the surmise is correct, and no
other theory fits in so well, or fits in at all, with ascertained facts, the romantic
parting on the banks of Ayr took place in the summer of 1786— "the second
Sunday in May " being the 14th of the month. But the surprise does not
end here. Some months before this Bums had placed in the hand of his
friend Aiken an irregular but legal certificate of marriage with Jean Armour;
nor, 35 appears from one of the poet's own letters, was it destroyed till some
day between the 3rd and 17th of the preceding April. What the poet calls
the " pretty long tract of ardent reciprocal attachment " comes, therefore, within
thirty days of being inconveniently near formal obligations to his earlier love.
Destroyed though the declaration was, Burns was none the less bound by its
contents— a responsibility he appears to have overlooked or been misinformed
about when he presented Mary Campbell with the famous Bible that summer
afternoon. In one of the volumes may yet be seen in the poet's handwriting,
"And ye shall not swear by my name falsely — I am the Lord" (LeviL xvi. 12);
in the other, "Thou shalt not forswear thyself, but shalt perform unto the Lord
thine oath" (St. Matt. v. 33). According to Dr. R. Chambers, sound lawyers
have already given it as their opinion that the destruction of the informal
declaration in no way altered the relative position of the parlies, but only
introduced an element of difficulty, had it been necessary to establish the marriage
by evidence in Court The verbal testimony of any who liad seen or even
heard of the document would have gone far to fix the conditions it was originally

BURNS AND ''HIGHLAND MARY:' 253

intended to establish. When Burns became first acquainted with Mary Campbell
cannot be fixed with great precision. It is not likely to have been earlier than
1784, when he went with the rest of the family to reside in her neighbourhood.
Maiy Campbell is presumed at this time to have been in the service of Bums'
friend, Gavin Hamilton, in Mauchline, but removed, it is thought, afterwards
to Coilsfield, where, it is also surmised, she resided during the summer of 1785.
Wherever living, she would seem to have left Ajrrshire about Whitsunday, 1786,
the term day that year being the day following the parting with Bums — ''the
second Sunday in May." The date of this parting can otherwise be fixed with
reasonable accuracy. The Bible itself is of date 1782, and, in addition to
the verses quoted, bears the signature, ''Robert Bums, Mossgiel," a place with
which Bums had no connection till 1784, as mentioned above. In the absence
of positive information about the closing days of Mary Campbell, the Bibles
are not the least important link in the chain of evidence. Their history has
been singular enough. On the death of "Highland Mary" at Greenock, as
we think in October, 1786, the volumes were treasured by her mother. Burns
being a forbidden subject with her father. Mrs. Campbell died in extreme
poverty at Greenock, in 1828. Some time before this date the old woman
had presented the Bibles to her daughter, Mrs. Anderson, from whom they
passed through two sisters to her son, William Anderson, mason, Renton, Dum-
bartonshire. On emigrating to Canada, in 1834, the volumes were taken with
him, and for a time lost trace of; but, being heard of accidentally by a few
of the poet's admirers in Montreal, the precious relics were secured for £2$^
and handsomely restored to the old country for the purpose of being placed in the
monument at Brig o' Doon, where they are now to be seen in fitting company
with other memorials of the bard. There are other discrepancies not easily
reconciled in the account given by Bums of Highland Mary. He writes of
her as proceeding to the Highlands "to arrange matters among her friends
for our projected change of life." Very little appears to have been known
about Mary in the household at Mossgiel. Mrs. Begg recollected no sort of

"54

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

reference being made to her more than once when the poet remarked to John
Blane, gaudsman, that Mary had refused to meet him in the old castle — the
dismantled tower of the priory near Coilsfield House. Even presuming that
Bums as well as the Armours acted under a sincere though erroneous impression
that a complete and valid separation had been effected, it is difficult, from
what we know of Mary's cliaracter, to see how ihe sad position of Jean Armour —
a position as painful as it was notorious —could be accepted by her as a reason
for hastening on in any way a union to which she was previously averse. With
his passage taken out, his chest on the road to Greenock, and the sails tilling
with the breeze that was to waft him from old Caledonia, matrimony, one
would have said, was the last thing likely to be thought of by the poet, either
for his own advantage or the comfort of her on whom he had again set his
changing affections. Tliere is still anotlier particle of proof militating strongly
against a marriage at this dark period in Burns's history. On the aand July
of the year in question — 1786 — the poet executed a deed investing his brother
Gilbert with all his "goods, gear, and moveable effects," profits from poems
included, to be held by him in trust for the upbringing of his illegitimate daughter,
known as "Sonsie, smirking, dear-bought Bess." In particular, provision was
made by the same deed for continuing his daughter's exclusive interest in the
copyright after she had reached the age of fifteen years. With what then was
he going to endow Mary Campbell in the way of worldly goods? Maniage
in such circumstances was as indiscreet as after events proved it improper.
Months after the first blast of the Armour strife was over, early in January,
1787, when being caressed by the rank, fashion, and learning of Edinburgh,
he wrote to his friend Hamilton at Mauchline, " To tell the trutli, among friends,
I feel a miserable blank in my heart for the want of her," referring to Jean
Armour. All these relations and responsibilities are alluded to in the touching
" Farewell," wherein, however, Mary, whom he may be presumed to have just
asked if she would "go to the Indies," is not once mentioned; —

BURNS AND ''HIGHLAND MARY:'

255

Farewell, old Scotland's bleak domains.
Far dearer than the torrid plains

Where rich annanas blow;
Farewell, a mother's blessing dear!
A brother's sigh! a sister's tear!
My Jean's heart-rending throe !
Farewell, my Bess ! though thou 'rt bereft

Of my paternal care,
A faithful brother I have left.
My part in him thou 'It share.
Adieu, too, to you too,

My Smith, my bosom frien*.
When kindly you mind me^
Oh then befriend my Jean!

What bursting anguish tears my heart!
From thee, my Jeanie, must I part!

Thou weeping answer'st "No!"
Alas ! misfortune stares my face,
And points to ruin and disgrace —

I, for thy sake, must go.
Thee, Hamilton and Aiken dear,

A grateful warm adieu,
I, with a much-indebted tear,
Shall still remember you.

All hail then, the gale then

Wafts me from thee, dear shore !
It rustles and whistles —
I'll never see thee morel

Instead of returning from the Highlands after arranging, as the poet writes,
"for our projected change in life," Dr. R. Chambers (to whom all inquirers
on this point are tmder great obligations), thinks Highland Mary had agreed,
at the recommendation of a former patroness, to accept for the Martinmas
term a new situation at Glasgow in the family of Colonel M*Ivor. This careful
biographer also mentions as a tradition that the illness under which the fair girl
suffered at Greenock was superstitiously believed to have been inflicted by the cast
of an evil eye, and friends, therefore, seriously recommended her father to go to a
spot where two bums met, select seven smooth stones from the channel, boil
them in new milk, and give her the same to drink. Mary's illness was far
too serious for either charms or skill Bums's ''Highland Lassie" sickened
of fever, died in a few days, and was buried in a lair at the West Church
belonging to a distant relative of her mother, thus closing what the impassioned
poet described in after years as ''one of the most interesting episodes of my
youthful days,"

as*

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

KILMARNOCK.

A HANDY and useful addition was made to local literature by the issue of a new
or fourth edition of the late Archibald N'Ra/s well-known "History of
Kilmamoclc." It was somewhat over thirty years since the first appeared,
and two have been issued in the interim. Admirably arranged as the book
is, and full of infonnation, it is yet hardly full enough, and not quite so fresh
in details as the year on the title-page would lead one to infer. The new
preface is dated last June, yet among the worthies wlio figured in "Auld Killie,"
of whom brief— loo brief— notice is given, no mention is made of the fact
that John Kelso Hunter died so far back as February, 1873. It is just
between se^-en and eight years since J. K., "John Kobbler," otherwise "The
Cobbler Artist," was taken away from his "last" as well as his easel, to the
regret of many friends, aged a little over seventy. Neither the "Relrosi>ect"
nor "Life Studies of Character," nor "Memorials of West Country Men and
Manners," is so much as mentioned, and yet it is not to be disputed that
Hunter's writings have fully more to do with such fame as he enjoys than
any labour he ever undertook in connection with the "Kilmarnock Drawing
Academy," important as that institution might be in the history of art.
Hunter's portraits were in the main looked upon as wonders, the feeling
generally being, not that they should be done so well, but that in the cir-
cumstances they could be done at all. His books, on the other hand, were
the man all over, surrounded by portraits of another kind, coloured like those
on canvas, with the airy imagination of the artist. These must long continue
to be enjoyed by. all who esteem graphic accuracy with a strong dash of Doric
tincture. James Paterson, too, another Kilmarnock worthy by residence,
thoroughly Ayrshire also by birth and work, receives only a brief mention,
suggested apparently by his experiences on the local "Chronicle." And yet

KILMARNOCK.

357

James Paterson wrote the " History of Ayr," and transaibed " The Obit
Book of St. John the Baptist," not to speak of much miscellaneous work in
the way of compilation. Neither is it indicated in any way that such an
industrious labourer in the literary vineyard has been dead for two or three
years. Nobody can grudge the ample space devoted to Sir James Shaw, an
exceptionally prominent and worthy native of the town; but one pre-eminent
duty of a local historian, and one on which even readers beyond the bounds
of the locality look to him as an authority, is to give a reasonably complete
account of those who in the world of enterprise or thought did some good
work in their day, but probably not sufficient to merit any reminder in the
way of a public monument. The prominent can easily be held in remembrance;
but local history, to be properly written, must be made up of many people not
reaching a very high standard of effort, just as on the other it must deal with
many events having only a parochial significance. The general historian
requires so often to be indebted to the special or local that disappointment is
experienced when details are found to be less full than might be reasonably
expected, especially when opportunity has been afforded for increased care by
four editions. As slips occur in the way of omitting to mention death, so on the
other hand persons still living might have been described. An otherwise excellent
notice of Mr. Templelon, vocalist, is slightly marred by an absence of any in-
formation that he is still (1880) living, and must be about, if not over, eighty years
of age. The date of birth, instead of being only an inference from certain
other facts, should have been stated with distinctness. In the mere arrangement
of his matter no less than in simple directness of expression, Mr. M'Kay must
be judged to merit very high praise. There is some mention of the earliest
notices of the burgh, though, from the absence of ecclesiastical or municipal
records, these cannot be expected in I'ery great detail, nor might they be con-
sidered as adding to the usefulness of the book for popular purposes. The
town books extend no further back than 1686, and the earliest entry in the
roister of baptism is of date 1644. For its erection as a parish, for the date

J7

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

of its first church, or even for the period of the reputed St. Mamock, only
stray references of second or third rate value, so far as age is concerned, can
now be had. For the "Locartt" vassals of the great De Monille, who are
presumed to have placed the parish under the protection of Kilwinning, that
ancient mother of many fraternities, Time has preserved but little until a period
is reached so recent as hardly to be history when judged of in conneclion with
the event itself. Eariy in the seventeenth century — probably 500 years after a
village had begun to cluster round the church— Pont wrote of Kilmarnock as
having a weekly market, and "a faire stone bridge over the river which glides
past by the toune till it falls into the river Irvine. It hath a pretty church,
from which the village castle and lordship takes its name. The Lord Boyd is
now lord of it, to whose predecessors it hath belonged for many generations."
It was only a few years before this date, or in 15911 that Kilmarnock received
its first charter, being erected into a burgh of barony by Thomas, fifth Lord
Boyd. In 167a a second charter, conferring additional rights and privileges on
the town, was granted by Charles II. in favour of William, ninth Lord Boyd,
and first Earl of Kilmarnock, great-grandfather of the unfortunate William,
fourth Earl, executed on Tower Hil! for his sliare in the Rebellion of 1745.
From the third Earl Kilmarnock received a grant of the common greens of the
town, certain shops under the Tolbooth, the tron and weights, with the customs
of the burgh, including all connected with the fairs and weekly markets. When
this grant was made the Magistrates were elected by the Lord of the manor
from a list presented to him annually. So far as Parliamentary representation
or municipal government was concerned, Kilmarnock continued in this condi-
tion till 1832, when under the Reform Bill of that year it was included among
the fifteen towns in Scotland, not royal burghs, which were to join with others
in sending a member to the Commons. Gradually increasing in enterprise and
population, Kilmarnock came to be a place of considerable importance in the
West Country, and throughout the perilous times of the Covenant and Rebellion
lent a consistent and substantial support to the cause of religious and civil

q

KILMARNOCK. 359

liberty. Whig by conviction no less tban by tradition, several sons of KJlmamock
occupy an honourable place in the roll of Covenant martyrs, while several barbarous
executions took place within the burgh for the avowed purpose of overawing its
inhabitants. The moorlands of .Ayrshire were too near, as they were too well known,
to the dragoons for Kilmarnock to be kept free from their unwelcome presence. In
January, 1682, Captain Inglia complains that the countrymen will neither
sell corn nor straw to the troops, but shut up their doors on seeing the soldiers.
So far as the last rising in favour of the House of Stuart was concerned, although
its titular chief, through some personal resentment of his own, it has been
said, cast in his lot with the young Pretender, the townsfolk were prominently
active in support of the House of Hanover. In his petition to the King, the
Earl of Kilmarnock affirmed that he influenced neither tenant nor follower
to assist or abet the rebellion, but that, on the contrary, between the time of
the battle of Preston and his own unhappy junction with the rebels, he went
to the town of Kilmarnock, and pleaded the cause of His Majesty with such
effect, that zoo men were soon in arms, and remained moat of the winter in
Glasgow or elsewhere. As might have been expected from his long familiarity
with local men and events, Mr. M'Kay furnishes much interesting information
concerning Bums and his Kilmarnock friends, many of his " howfs " being
minutely described, and the men whom he mixed with or satirised noticed in
a pleasant informing manner. As indicating the extension of the town caused
by carpet weaving, engineering, and other industries, the population, it may be
mentioned, has increased within the present century from 8,079 '° •^<" '^ i4>07i
in 1871, At present the total valuation of the burgh proper, including railways,
is ;£83,7«, and of the landward portion, also including railways, is ^^22,392.
Mr. M'Kay's " Kilmarnock " is not a book of events only— although all the
more important are given, including fires and floods — but he very properly
deals with the pastimes of the people, their churches and schools, and all the
recent improvements for which the burgh has been so worthily distinguished
in recent years. Regarding all these points, and many more, on which space

a6o 7HE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

will not permit us to dilate, Mr. M'Kay'a book may be confidently taken in
hand as a trustworthy guide and authority, subject to such small exceptions
as are mentioned above.

-ST. MICHAEL'S, DUMFRIES.

Since even the memory of the just "smell sweet and blossom iu the dust,"
what high consideration should be meted out to those Old Mortality's who
so far defy "Decay's effacing fingers" as to keep ihe departed in green
remembrance by gathering togetSicr their memorials for wide and permanent
respect? The quaint old Knight of Norwich, Sir Thomas Browne, writes of
unsatisfied affection as receiving some pleasure from being neighbours in the grave,
"to lie urn by urn, and touch but in their names." In his "Memorials of St.
Michael's," the historian of Dumfries, following up, and indeed partly completing,
his previous labours, brought whole generations side by side, enabhng survivors at
home, or it may be in distant parts, to recall old associations and renew forgotten
friendships. He has discharged his somewhat mournful task with feeling and
judgment. Grave without being gloomy, informing but never dull, minute and
yet discriminating, the reader will find tn M'Dowall's meditations among ihe
tombs much that will enlarge the understanding as well as touch the heart
Names, he says, that appear of little note to strangers may be precious to some
humble household, as having belonged to those who, in happier days for the
survivors, were its chief prop or pride. All burial grounds — even the unconsecrated
— are counted sacred; but as a rule each bereaved mourner counts that spot
the dearest and most hallowed of all which contains the gem of his own circle.
Of some graves, half-neglected as obscure, noticed in the volume, the observation

ST. MICHAEES, DUMFRIES, 261

naturally arises, " Sombody's darling slumbers here." Without presenting anything
in the way of extreme antiquity, or even of that grotesque character which has
made epitaphial literature quite lively reading, having no pretensions to great
splendour or high historical associations, the burial ground of St. Michael's,
Dumfries (the "Auld Ku-kyard," as it is familiarly spoken of), yet calls up
recollections wide and deep peculiar to itself. For a provincial burial-place, it
is unusually large and yet unusually crowded with memorials. It has been for
centuries the grave of magistrates and burgesses, conveners and deacons, not
to speak of old country families of repute like the Maxwells, Sharpes, and
Fergusons. It is even hallowed as the grave of martyrs, one granite memorial,
renewing the testimony of an earlier but humbler stone, recording that ''near
this spot were deposited the remains of William Grierson and William Welsh,
who suffered unto death for their adherence to the principles of the Reformation,
January 2, 1667. Also of James Kirk, shot on the Sands of Dumfries, 1685.
''Rev. xiL II." But magistrates and even martyrs are to be found in other
churchyards. The special interest of St Michael's, Dumfries, is its connection
with the memory of Bums. The poet worshipped in the church, and in the
ground adjoining his dust, and the dust of his wife and family,
rests under the stately mausoleum designed by Tumerelli for the
poet's admirers. Here, too, and not far distant, is the grave of Jessie
Lewars (afterwards Mrs. Thomson) to be enrolled by fate "with native worth
and spotless fame." As a near neighbour in the street, and the daughter of
a brother exciseman, Bums had addressed to her the song, "Here's a health
to ane I lo'e dear," and it is pleasing to remember that his closing sickness
was soothed as far as it could be by her tender attention. John Lewars
himself is buried not far off, as is John Bushby of the "Election Ballads,"
and James Grade, banker, that "man of worth" — helpful when help was most
needed. More still. Within St. Michael's the graves are still to be seen of
Gabriel Richardson, "Brewer Gabriel'* of the epitaph, but known also as the
father of Sir John Richardson, an intrepid Arctic voyager; and of Colonel de

i6j

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY,

Peyster, "My honoured Colonel, deep I feel your interest in the poet's weal."
Tliis officer of the Dumfries Volunteers survived Bums more than a quarter
of a century, having been spared to the long age of ninety-six. With a
reputation for severity, acquired in the American war, the colonel appears to
have been in reality a modest, warm-hearted man. A few days before his
death he wrote, and it has been appropriately placed on his monument :-

Raise no vain slnacture o'er my grave,
One simple stone is all I crave.
To say, beneaih a sinner lies.
Who died in hopes again to rise.
Through Christ alone to be forgiven,
And filled for the joys of heaven.

A

It will thus be seen that Burns and his contemporaries furnish matter unusually
attractive for the " Memorials;" nor can it be said that the industrious compiler,
Mr. M'Dowall, has in any case failed to set forth in an attractive way the most
important facts necessary to be known of their personal history and the
associations naturally called up by the mention of the poet or his friends.
He is directly referred to or used in illustration between thirty and forty

All ask the cottage of his birth.

Gaze on the scenes he loved arid sung,
And gather feelings not of earth.
His fields and streams among.

They linger by the Boon's low tree^

And pastoral Nilh and wooded tyre.
And round thy sepulchres, Dumfries —

The poet's tomb is there.

I plan adopted to bring the "Memorials" into something hke order is
pie and natural, and wrought out in a way well suited to make the book

i,

ST. MICHAEVS, DUMFRIES. 263

useful for family or general reference. The work is divided into thirty-one
chapters, each taken up with a separate walk or section, in which all the

memorials of departed worth are passed under review, the inscriptions in many
cases being given in full, and in all as much interesting collateral information
presented as keeps the book from being a mere dull or monotonous chronicle
of the tombs. He does not claim, nor was it well possible, even if desirable, to
give the names of every member of the great company resting within the area
of SL Michael's, but from his minuteness, and the care with which for years he
is known to have passed through its quiet walks, it may be assumed that no
family burial-place with any memorial or noteworthy member has been passed
by unnoticed. The book has thus an interest for friends far distant and long
absent distinct from relatives nearer who may wish to renew their memories
by a personal visit to the graves, book in hand. Whenever, writes Mr.
M'Dowall, the persons commented upon figured in history or were connected
with important events, local or national, a brief biography or descriptive sketch
has been given. To town councillors and trades, with the provosts and bailies,
conveners and deacons — many of them heroes of John Mayne's "Siller Gun"
—considerable prominence has been given, as is the case also with those who
bore rule in spiritual things, or ministered to the bodily healdi, or looked after
the legal business of the lieges. The Latin epitaphs have in translation had
the benefit of the rare scholarship of Dr. Cranstoun, rector of the Burgh
Academy, whose "Catullus" and "Tibullus" most readers of old classics in
an English dress are familiar with. In the tenth chapter the walk naturally
leads our author to the cholera mound, and this in turn suggests an account
of the grievous pestilence referred to in the inscription : — " In this cemetery,
and chiefly within this enclosure, lie the mortal remains of more than 420
inhabitants of Dumfries who were suddenly swept away by the memorable
invasion of Asiatic cholera a,d. 1S3J. That terrible pestilence entered the
town on 15th September, and remained till 27th November, during which period
it seized at least 900 individuals, of whom 44 died in one day, and no more

264 THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

than 415 were reported as recovered. That the benefit of this solemn warning
might not be lost to posterity, this monument was erected from collections
made in several chmt:hes in this town." Among the oldest monuments in
St. Michael's is one erected by "a grateful spouse and pious children" to
commemorate the virtues of Francis Irving, merchant and magistrate, who
died November, 1633. In addition to a Latin Inscription, the following lines
have been added as expressing the personal opinion of the old citizen:—

King James at first mc lialive named
DnunTrcis on time me Provest darned
God bast for mc anc crowne reserved
For King and Countiie have I served.

We should not omit to mention that a fair index of names and subjects permits
Mr. M'Dowall's book to be turned up with the utmost readiness by all wishing
to know what can be known about the work done while it was day by the now
silent occupants of the old burying-place of St. Michael's, Dumfries.

DUMFRIES ROOD FAIR. 265

DUMFRIES ROOD FAIR.

While nothing is easier to note than the mere market or trade aspect of
fairs, there is a difficulty sometimes in accounting for the vitality of old customs,
which has helped to raise certain gatherings of this kind almost to the dignity
of national institutions. Fairs in Scotland have originated in various ways.
In days when the Church was learned as well as powerful, she invariably flung
her protecting arm round the little community gathered near the monastery or
cathedral, and even conferred upon them special privileges in the way of trade,
or exemption from dues. Glasgow and Paisley, Dunfermline and Brechin,
all owe their fairs to the Church. Ayr and Stirling, again, with Perth and
Inverness, are of civil or royal origin. A third class, such as Falkirk, Muir of
Ord, and Carman, may more properly be set down as "tiysts," or markets
originating from the ordinary necessities or conveniences of stock trading. Civil
in origin, yet with a brotherhood of Grey Friars in their midst, and possessed
at the same time of special "tryst" or market features, Dumfries Rood Fair
may be said to present features belonging to all three classes. The gathering
itself is of old date, in all probability coeval with the foundation of the buigh
by William the Lion. His character of erection is not in existence, nor has
any copy of it been seen in modem times. The usual form observed was for
the sovereign to declare to all concerned that the town or "vil" described, had
been raised to the dignity of a burgh, and possessed all the liberties enjoyed
by the King's other burghs. The burgesses were freed from tolls throughout
the kingdom, and a certain cohesion was given to their corporate existence,
by a grant of lands contiguous to the town. Stated fairs as a rule were also
permitted to be held in the coturse of the year, and toll and customs due to
the burgh, fell to be collected at places set forth in the charter. A second
charter of King Robert III., dated at Glasgow, 1395, confirms all previous

4

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

customs and privileges, with the addition of Nith fishings, excepting only such
portion as had been granted by predecessors out of Divine charity to the Minorite
Brethren. A formal but apparently uncompleted precept for a new chatter
by King James VI., in 1631, purports to confer upon the Magistrates and
Council authority "to have and use within the burgh upon ilk Monday and
Friday, ane publick mercat day, logidder with twa fairis in the year, the ane
thereoif to begin upon the [blank] day of Apryle, and the aither upon the fourtene
day of September yearlie, and aither of them to continue for the space of aucht
days theireafter." Influenced, apparently, by the festival day of the burgh's
patron, SL Michael the Archangel (Sept. 29), the autumn or Rood Fair was
fixed at a stated period between this date and the other Church festival known
as the Exaltation of the Holy Cross or Rood, " Exaltatio Sanctae Crucis." St.
Michael himself composedly trampling the dragon under foot, may still be seen,
as graven by a cunning hand, in front of the midsteeple buildings, the Town's
Chamber for many years before removal to Buccleuch Street. About this
St. Michael much amusing literature, diverting at any time, but especially
suitable at fair time, has been written by grave clergymen. In the "New Statistical
Account" one reverend gentleman, ignorant apparently of the traditions gather-
ing round the name of him who in Heaven made war against the Woman,
describes St. Michael as "a Popish saint of extreme sanctity," while another
identifies his "Kirkmichael" with the burial-place of the archangel. In early
days, and in accordance with what was known as " The Laws of the Four Burghs,"
after the peace of the fair was proclaimed, it was not lawful to capture or attack
any wrong-doer within the burgh, unless he had broken the peace of the fair,
or was a traitor to the King, or had been guilty of some misdeed for which
Holy Church itself could not give "gyrth" or sanctuary. None have as yet
been able to trace the " Pied Poudre " Court in Scotland, but from the readiness
with which appeals could be made to " the bailies of the fair " in the case of
articles lost or stolen, it may be inferred that such magistrates formed a ready .
court of reference in all disputes between the burgesses and the "dustyfoot " J

DUMFRIES ROOD FAIR.

267

or travelling merchant As a salutary warniog to evil-doers, market or fair
days were generally fixed upon for carrying out extreme sentences of the law.
It is mentioned in M'Dowall's excellent "History of Dumfries" that in April,
r6sg, nine unfortunate women, condemned as witches, were inhumanly strangled
and burnt at the usual place of execution, on a Wednesday afternoon. The
local clerg)', on this occasion, being unable to overtake the task of spiritual
consolation, was assisted on the day of execution by brethren from Galloway.
In the face of all the changes in trade caused by railways, the Rood Fair
gathering in the south has, from generation lo generation, been considered the
event of the year, Young and old have been alike interested in the return of
the welcome season; and to it in troops they flock from eveiy point of the
compass — from the green holms of Annandale to the solitary Glenkens — from
breezy Kyle to Solway shore— all direct their journey to "Maggie, by the banks
of Nith." Then they are of all classes. In the space between Church Place
and Assembly Street, there may be seen the laird and the factor, the farmer
and the cottar, wives and daughters, man-servant and maid-servant. Elderly
fair-goers have a habit of contrasting the splendour of the fair nowadays with
what it was in past times, when the seven incorporated trades turned out with
their gaudy trappings on the Thursday, or town's holiday, and a glimpse might
even have been obtained of King James' famous gift, "the Siller Gun," as it
was borne in triumph to their own hall. In "the shows," especially, the falling
off is described as a local calamity. And certainly with Jerry Wombwell on
the White Sands, and old Ord on the Green, a poor substitute is presented
by a gaudy show of shooting ranges and a ricketty caravan or two, even though
they do happen to contain Peruvian Pangythans. David Street, too, has been
shorn of its crockery display, and all the china or Staffordshire ware to be
seen there might be packed within the space of a common crate. Burwell's
Bazaar, a very Cave of Aladdin, with its sanded floor and gay contents, not to
speak of the desperate excitement of the lottery, was first removed from its
time-honoured stance in Buccleuch Street, and now seems to be altogether

a68 THB WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

improved out of existence. These are, no doubt, drawbacks of a kind, but
the real sjiectacle happens lo be the people themselves — the lads and lasses —
and here they have been in abundance, exuberant yet orderly, gay as holiday
altire can make them, but richer still in stores of health and strength won in
the harvest field. They gather to see each other, and care for little else. Mere
town sights are of little moment. Not an extra score of people find their way
to any of them. Burns, as he at one time wrote to Grose was likely, might as
well be lying in the quiet solitude of Alloway. The Observatory, made of
easier access from the Dumfries side, by the new and elegant suspension bridge
across the Nlth at the Dock, may attract a few specially curious, but they are
mostly townsfolk or visiting friends of townsfolk. The hostelries adjacent
to High Street supply the bulk of the entertainment wanted, and their resources
are taxed to the utmost. Royal Oaks and Crowns, Globes and Georges (the
hack "Supple Sam," in "Guy Mannering," belonged to the George) have all
been too little for the demands made on them by our lively south-country Jocks
and Jennies.

RENPJiEWSHIRE RECORDS.

Ih issuing a new series of selections from the Judicial Records of Renfrewshire,
Mr. Hector added a useful and entertaining volume to tlic historian's library, and
presented a series of details regarding the administration of law in the county, as
well as of the manners and condition of the people, interesting far beyond the
bounds to which the different papers specially refer. In drawing from those
Renfrewshire records, of which as Sheriff-Clerk he was official custodier, Mr. Hector
was in reality illustrating the history of Scotland in general, and that on points

RENFREWSHIRE RECORDS. 269

whose preceding writers of far higher pretensions were neither very full nor very
accurate. A list of rents, prices, and valuations may present a dry, forbidding
appearance to readers caring only for amusement or passing the time; but they
form the material out of which history must be constructed, if we really desire to
know how our ancestors lived at home or were controlled by civil authority. In
Mr« Hector's hands the various documents submitted become something more
than mere material for history. It is history itself, the Muse unrolling the historic
scroll in her own way. In addition to the '' libel " as presented to the Court for
discussion and settlement, Mr. Hector has always a few introductory remarks to
offer in the way of explanation, sometimes by way of contrast or comparison with
things judicial in our own time. These remarks as a rule are not only made with
brevity and intelligence, but are full of suggestive matter likely to occur only to a
mind familiar with the details of legal practice and trained in the strict application
of general legal principles. Nor are such details by any means as a rule of a dry
statistical character; in like manner to the first volume there is in the second
something for the merely curious to beguile a half-hour, and something also for
those who have earnestly laboured in modem times to bring about some improve-
ment in the local judicial business of the country. In this respect the attractive
qualities of Mr. Hector's book gives ground for hope that similar collections may
soon be issued illustrating the history of other counties in Scotland. Renfrewshire
is not richer than others in ancient judicial records; nor does Mr. Hector say so.
Rather otherwise. In all Scottish counties such records have been accumulating
rapidly since 1748, when the earlier records of hereditary officials and Bailies of
Barony were abolished by the Heritable Jurisdiction Act, and their records trans-
ferred to the new Sheriffs. From the absence of sufficient accommodation, as
Mr. Hector justly observes, or through want of due appreciation of their value,
the earlier as well as the more recent records were improperly buried and
injured in obscure comers where such portions as can be preserved still
await the attention of Government for publication, so far at least as the
documents might be judged historically important So late as 1873, the

a^Q

THE WF.ST COU^TTRY IN HISTORY.

judicial records of Renfrewshire were for the most part huddled on the damp
stone floor of the record room at Paisley — no inventories, covered with dust,
many missing, and all going to decay. So serious did matters !ook in this
department, that when Mr. Hector was appointed Sheriff-Clerk in that year he
found it necessary lo decline taking possession of the records, or to be held
responsible in any way regarding ihcm, so long as they were permitted lo remain
in their then condition. Through the active exertions of Sheri/T Fraser and
others funds were at length procured for putting the record room in order, and
steps taken to arrange and inventory such documents as remained. In carrying
out this congenial duty the Sheriff-Clerk naturally came across many papers
relating to the old hereditary courts and illustrative of the social condition of
the people. Believing that some of them might stil! interest the public, he
selected, annotated, and published portions in the press weekly during the last
three years. The result was the first volume of records issued from the tasteful
press of the Messrs. Cook, Paisley, early in 1S76. The second, with which we
are now dealing, has just been submitted to subscribers by the same careful
publishers. This series would appear, for the present at least, to close the
publication. Mr. Hector explains ihat his chief object has been to prompt other
custodiers of county records to follow his example, believing it to be a duty which
they should not shrink from ; and to press at the same time the duty laid upon
those in authority to provide sufficient accommodation for the safe and careful
preservation of official documents. The new volume is divided into eight
convenient sections; — r, County Representation, Freeholders, &c; 2, Old County
Families and Estates; 3, County Courts; 4, Social Condition and Mannet?;
5, Prisons and Prisoners; 6, the Burgh of Paisley (with a Plan, of date about
IS45' snd View of the Old Abbey "Yett House"); 7, Miscellaneous; 8, Rents,
Prices, &c., 1730-50. In addition to the illustrations just mentioned, a number
of well-executed facsimilies are presented of certain of the more imjxirtant
documents described and inserted in the text. The volume formally bears
to be dedicated by permission to Sir William Stirling-Maxwell, Bait. — " Eminent

RENFREWSHIRE RECORDS. ayi

as a legislator and author, and representative of one of the oldest and most
distinguished families in Renfrewshire;" but during its passage through the press
Sir William died at Venice. In accepting the dedication the accomplished
Baronet wrote that he had read the "records with great pleasure, and tendered
his thanks to Mr. Hector for the instruction and amusement they had afforded
him." The volume is to be had in two sizes— a handy octavo for use, and large
paper for book-fanciers inclining to luxury or display.

Curious rather than important, the gleanings of the late Mr. Hector from the
record room of his county have been strung together in a narrative of such
historic interest as entitles him to the thanks of readers far removed from the
circle of mere local antiquaries, and fully justifies the desire expressed that be
would gather into a neat, convenient book-form what was at first intended to serve
a more ephemeral purpose in the columns of a local newspaper. From the Sheriff-
Clerk's familiarity with Renfrewshire and his local knowledge of most record
repositories in the county, it is to be wished he could have seen his way to have
enlarged his scheme so far as to include not only records of older date than he
has referred to, but documents other than those which naturally fell under hia own
official custody. It would have been well, for instance, to have had set forth with
some local colouring that remarkable dispute described in the Abbey Cartulary as
occurring between the abbot and convent on the one hand and a contumacious
layman, known as Gilbert tlie son of Samuel of Renfrew, on the other, concerning
certain church lands on the north side of the Clyde, one properly being minutely
described as the great house made of wattles^" domus magna fabricata de virgis"
— intended for the entertainment of pilgrims journeying to the Shrine of St.
Patrick. It presents what is probably the earliest specimen furnished by ecclesi-
astical law of trial by jury, and is, besides, interesting as settled by evidence taken
on oath of witnesses familiar with the localities and persons described in the
process. The abbot and convent of Paisley appealed to Pope Gregory the Ninth
to vindicate the rights of their house, and His Holiness so far espoused their cause
as to issue at Spoletum, 8th June, 1133, a commission to the Deans of Carrick

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

and Cunningham and llie master of the schools of Ayr withia the diocese of
Glasgow, to redress, without appeal, the grievances complained of. The commis-
sion is afterwards described as silting at Ayr on the Sabbath iraraediately following
the Lord's-Day on whidi is sung "Quasi modi genile," 3olh April, 1234, Then
a search, say in the town-clerk's office under a trained eye like Mr, Hector's,
might be made to reveal something concerning that [ireposterous riot on the part
of Renfrew, referred lo in a letter addressed by James IV., 23rd December, 1490,
to John, Earl of Lennox, and Matthew Stewart, his son, commanding them, at the
instance of the abbot, to make inquisition for the discovery and punishment of
divers persons of the burgh of Renfrew, who, animated apparently by ill-will and
jealousy against the town of Paisley, shortly before erected by the Sovereign into a
free burgh of barony, had during the night-time riotously destroyed the stones and
hewn-work of the market cross of that town. Some more reference also to the old
families of Renfrewshire and their residences would have been a pleasant feature
in a collection of records relating to a county bo famous for its antiquarian interests
in these respects. Documents, judicial or municipal, public or private, are always
welcome when they can be connected with the traditions of such houses as the
Montgomeries and Cunninghams, Maxwells and Stewarts, or even with those of
lesser estate, though equally distinguished, like the Dennistouns, Napiers, and
Mures. Crawford, loo, of Jordanhill, a daring soldier of the reign of James VI.,
connects himself intimately with Paisley, by appearing early in 1570 before the
Abbey to take over the fabric on behalf of the King, along with the body of
Robert, Lord Sempill, under an assurance that all persons in the Abbey and
Place would be set at liberty, excepting only those under suspicion of being
concerned in the murder of Henr>', Lord Darnley, his Majesty's father. An
unlucky ordination dinner at lochinnan, where " the meat was not nyce/ and the
ale only "twopenny," as set forth with graphic vigour by Mr, Hector, hardly
requires the pleasant fancy of the author of "The Pen Folk," or even the
antiquarian enthusiasm of the historian of " Saint Mirin," lo connect itself with a
record known as "The Inventure of the graithe in Inchinane, nilh the auld rotten

RENFREWSHIRE RECORDS. 273

Papistrie thairin." "Item (sajs this record of about 1570) in chapcll, 2 mess
buiks. Item, ane yroage of the babe Jesus. Item, kaist ymage of our Lady, and
ane grit ymage witht ane ymage of Sanct Ann. Item, anc tittle ymage of ewii
bane that slud upone ane chandlar," &c

Thankful, however, for even the comparatively recent records of his office,
and glad to know that under his care they were lately arranged with a
view to reference as well as preservation, it is a more pleasant part of our task
to indicate Mr. Hector's own plan of arranging his materials, and to describe
how successfully he touched upon the various topics embraced in the volume
issued in such excellent laste from the Paisley press. Section first is taken
up with documenis illustrating that period generally described in Scotland as
"The Persecution;" sections two and three relate to the manners and customs
of the people from about the time of the Revolution to the end of last century;
section four recalls to readers the administration of law during the same years,
and shows by many well-selected cases how severely it bore upon all charged
with crime — young and old, woman or child— and what gross irregularity then
characterised the administration of justice in provincial courts. The closing
portion of Mr. Hector's very interesting volume is made partly up of a few
miscellaneous papers relating to some Renfrewshire families of note, and a
valuable, though ralher dry series concerning rents and prices prevailing over
the county during the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. Each legal docu-
ment produced from the archives of the Sheriff-Clerk is accompanied by a
page or two of explanatory matter, setting forth its main features and obviating
any necessity for non-professional readers losing time or patience over the some-
what cmbbed originals. In order, however, that these may be consulted by
the careful scholar with as much exactness as possible, a few excellent drawings
in facsimile have been introduced into the work. As was befitting the official
chief in an office where Motherwell wrote, Mr. Hector has been fortunate
enough to disinter a new Jacobite song out of a very unpromising bundle of

law papers ; but whatever zeal the author may have intended to show on behalf

18

374

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

of the exiled house, the merits of the piece are so very ordinary that James
M'AIpie, Sheriff-Clerk, and for some time Substitute, can hardly be said to add
to the interest of that department of hterature which includes such lyrics as
"Will ye no come back again?" and "Waes me for Prince Charlie." The
inconvenience and loss occasioned by " Black " or counterfeit Irish coins is
touched upon in the form of a complaint at the instance of the Procurator-
Fiscal, of date 1727. The grievance unfortunately was too common in those
days, and neither swift nor severe punishment could prevent fraud in the currency.
In June of the following year {1728), Patrick, second Viscount Gamock (of
whom something may be learned in Dobie's "Examination of the Claims of
John Lindsay Craufurd") writes to Hunter of Hunterston from Kilbimie: —
"Please lett me know, in answer to yrs. what i ou you o borrowed money,
which I think is a shilling sterline, and two or thereby halfpence." While
the general ignorance of the people and the uniform severity of those who sal
in high places are brought fully enough out in Mr. Hector's book, there is a
deficiency we did not expect in documents illustrating the darker superstitions
of the district — a matter to be wondered at all the more from the somewhat
evil eminence enjoyed by Renfrewshire in the annals of witches and warlocks.
Recent, historically speaking, though most of the documents are, some of them
almost touch the time when clergy and judges sent poor creatures to the gallows
or the stake for imputed crimes not possible to be committed. Some of the
victims, indeed, got a taste of the bitterness of death in both forms, being
first partly " wirrit to death " at a stake and then burnt. This sad chapter in
the history of ignorance and superstition is just touched upon in the case of
Perhie and others libelled in 1692 for the '-unnatural, barbarous, and unchristian"
crime of drinking the health of the devil, and scandalising in connection there-
with certain good citizens of Paisley. The punishment in this case was simply
exposure at the Cross. There is nothing about Mary Lamond and the other
Innerkip witches of 1662, who had been taught by Katherine Scott in Murdistane
to get milk from her neighbour's cow, " bidding hir goe out in mistie mornings,

RENFREWSHIRE RECORDS. ays

and tak with her a hairie tedder, and draw it over the mouth of a mug, sayings
in God's name send us milk and meikle of it Be these wayes she and the
said Kathrine got muckle of thair neibours* milk, and made butter and cheise
thairof Her experience, first at Ardgowan and then at Kempock, was that
<< The Deil, for ordinar in the shape of a black man with cloven feet, sang to
them, gave them wyne to drink, and wheat bread to eat When thay dandt
they war all verie merrie, and he kist them, ane and all, when thay skaillit,"
except once when his sooty highness nipt her on the right side, " but thairafter
straikit it with his hand and healed it" There is nothing even about '<Auld
Dunrod," another graceless son of Innerkip, who

-mnntit his stick.

His brnmestick muntit he,
And he flychter't twa three times about,

Syne o'er the Firth did flee.
But he foigot the rowantree

At the Rest-and-be-Thanfu* stane,
His magic brnmestick tint its spell,

And he daudit his head thereon.

It is possible that any official documents ever called into existence by such
cases may still exist in the record room of the Lower Ward, or, what is more
to be dreaded, they may have been withdrawn from the custody of officials
not so careful as Sheriff-Clerks nowadays to permit private friends to illustrate
narratives like the famous Bargarran imposture.

What mercy might be expected in those dark days by the victims of a
wicked superstition may be illustrated from what happened so late as 1770
to Jean Montgomery, a married woman, who, on a charge by no means
established in evidence, of stealing a cut of a piece of lawn of less value than
ten shillings, suffered four months' imprisonment before trial, one month
af^er trial, and, in addition to being banished from the country, was sentenced,
under form of law and justice, to be stripped naked to the middle, marched

976

THE WEST COUNTR Y IN HISTOR Y.

through the streets of Paisley in charge of the common hangman, and to be
by him publicly whipped on the bare back at four places, all duly yet inhumanly
set forth in the deliverance— ten lashes at the Townhead, ten at the head of
the New Street, ten at the foot of the New Street, and a Rnal ten lashes at
the Cross, after being marched down the Causeyside and up Saint Mirren's i
Wynd, with her hands tied, as they had been all through her dismal progress.
This terrible sentence, it is to be recollected, stands recorded not as witnessing '
against a distant age or a savage race— not in Dahomey or among black people
at all— but at home, in a community reputed to be civilised, and near enough
our own lime to have been witnessed by the fathers of the present generation.
From the fact of Jean Montgomery being described as a married woman, wife
of John Storie, weaver, there is a presumption that she must at some time of
her life have received in a kind of way the benefit of clergy, yet no voice is
raised for mercy on her behalf in pulpit or on platform. Even the members for
the county and burgh of Renfrew sit dumb in parliament, and this at a time
when the one was represented by a gentleman so well known as Wm. M'Dowall
of Castlesemple, and the other (embraced in the Glasgow group) by an official
of such eminence as Lord Frederick Campbell, third son of John, fourth Duke
of Ai^ll, afterwards a most efficient Lord Clerk-Register, and much talked of
even earlier, from his marriage with the widow of that Laurence Earl Ferrers,
executed at Tyburn for the murder of his land-steward. Had such a sentence
stood on record against either man or woman in the time of the Persecution —
say for "rabbling" some poor indulged curate or the like— there is no end to
the illustrations it would have furnished the Kirk with of the patience manifested
by the Covenanted opponents of a system only possible to be upheld by "the
Boot" of LauderdaJe and the sword of Dundee. Even in Boston at the time,
where the struggle for independence was just assuming precise form, a mere i
black slave, George by name, for halfmurdering a white man in his own house,
and then tarring and feathering him, received only two years' imprisonment
with the addition of forty stripes save one of the number meted out to poor Jean

RENFREWSHIRE RECORDS. 277

Montgomery for her alleged guilt in stealing a cut of a piece of lawn. In
Hogarth's Bridewell scene, the uplifted cane of old Inspector Suspercoll has
sometimes been described as out of place; but there Kate is tightly laced up,
and in the newspapers of the day special mention is made that Mary Moffat, the
type in her "Progress" of many a Hackabout, was then in confinement,
"beating hemp in a gown very richly laced with silver." The only alleviating
circumstance in the Paisley case is that the sentence might not, or could not,
be carried into effect. Mr. Hector, it is but right to state, gives no indication
of this being possible, and rather leaves the reader to infer that such an outrage
as the sentence indicates was not perpetrated. He writes of the deliverance as
being a disgrace to "our" records and to all concerned in carrying it out;
and so in every sense it is, but we fear that "our" records may be designed
to indicate a wider area than Renfrewshire. There is no reason we know of
for believing the people of Paisley to have been more blood-thirsty than their
neighbours, or their rulers to have been more Draconian. What occurred in
Paibley a century since need not be considered exceptional so far as Scotland
is concerned. The fact of the flogging may be a matter of certain and easy
proof. Whipping half-naked women through the streets, under form of law,
could never be so common even in Paisley but that it must have fixed itself
in the memory of some inhabitants likely to speak of the fact to many still
living. No doubt there were other important matters exciting discussion in
the bui^h that week— the trial, among others, of Mungo Campbell for shedding
in a poaching squabble the blood of another Montgomery, Alexander, tenth
Earl of Eglinton. But even he had such a measure of fairness shown to him
in the Justiciary Court that it could not altogether blot out of memory this
humiliating case of Jean Montgomery or Storie. Some countenance is given
to the merciful theory here suggested as to its being a mere formal sentence
from the circumstance that in May, 1735, a certain infirm old Mary Black
and her daughter, for what was described as "accession to fire-raising" in a
stackyard, were sentenced in the same county to be banished the district, but

278

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

previously to suffer twelve months' imprisonment, and every fourteen days each
of them was to be taken from prison, stripped naked to the waist, and flogged
by the common hangman at five different places, all duly set forth, in the streets
of Paisley, the younger prisoner in addition to be burnt on the face. The
flogging in this case was officially authorised to be administered with "a lash
of small cords, consisting of five lashes knit at the ends," For the sake of
humanity, one is glad to be able lo state that not even a hangman could be
found lo carry out the merciless decree, and the prisoners were liberated on
promising to banish themselves from the county. Thanks to that progress of
knowledge based on experience which has led in modem times to the necesdty
of tempering justice with mercy and punishment with decency, it is no longer
necessary to rely on the sensitive feelmgs of the common executioner for avoiding
such outrages on nature.

THE RENFREWSHIRE WITCHES.

In his now forgotten play of " The Drummer," Addison unconsciously anticipates
by way of a joke a sentiment which a few years later than his time continued to
be widely and sincerely entertained. When Truman explains that poor Dobbin is
bewitched neither by Goody Crouch nor Goody Flye, "Then, exclaims the coach-
man, it must be by Goody Gurton, for she is the next oldest woman in the
parish." The great humourist makes Sir Roger himself a sort of half believer in
the popular superstition. He would apparently have committed Mother White
for trial had his chaplain not been present, and though he openly acquitted her of
any concern in the wind which blew down his bam a month after her death, he
still betrayed by his manner a lurking suspicion that it was she after all who
brewed the blast. The reprint of a once popular West Country tract (Gardner^ 1877)

I

THE RENFREWSHIRE WITCHES. 279

affords an excuse for referring to a tragedy in which it is hard to say whether
superstition or imposture played the most prominent part A scnall old mansion
in Erskine parish, known 33 Bargarran, has earned the evil reputation of
being the scene of one of the maddest of all the mad delusions concerning
witchcraft which stain the judicial annals of Scotland. At Rirgarran, in the
summer of 1696, resided John Shaw, a man of moderate landed estate, with his
wife and a few young children — one in particular, Christian by name, being
noticed as of an unusual lively and oix;n disposition. While the " True Narrative
of the Sufferings and Relief of this young girl makes reference to occurrences
in August of the above year, its composition is of date many months subsequent,
and among the few really conteraporary documents bearing on the case which
have been saved, it is satisfactory to find a series of minutes so complete and
official as is furnished by the records of the local Presbytery. The Kirk, as
was usual in such cases, took the earliest steps to set the civil law in motion.
The first note sounded openly in the case came from the Rev. Andrew Turner,
minister of Erskine parish, who at Paisley, on the 30th December, 1696, repre-
sented to ihe Presbytery the "deplorable case" of Christian Shaw, with
details so minute as almost to supersede the necessity of referring to the pre-
tended experiences of the girl herself as made in the so-called " Narrative." Since
the beginning of September last (it was reported) she had been under a very sore
and unnatural distemper, "frequently seized with strange fits, sometimes blind,
sometimes deaf and dumb, the several parts of her body sometimes violently
extended, and other parts as violently contracted, and for several weeks past
she hath disgorged a considerable quantity of hair, folded up straw, un-
clean hay, wild-fowl feathers, with divers kinds of bones of fowls and others,
together with a number of coal cinders burning hot, candle grease,
gravel stones, &c., all which she puts forth during the forementioned lits,
and in the intervals of them is in perfect health, wherein she gives an
account of several persons— both men and women — that appear to her in
her fits tormendng her, all which began with her upon the back of one

aSo THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

Kalhrioe Campbell, her cursing of her; and though her father hath called
physicians of the best note to her during her trouble, yet the application of
medicine to her hath proven ineffeclual, either for better or worse, and that they
(the Presbytery) are ready to declare that they look upon this distemper as
toto-^itfrt preternatural," Failing the powers of physicians to do anything in the
way of alleviating the "distressed damsel," fasting and prayer was now enjoined by
the Presbytery; and with a view of ulterior proceedings, a deputation was
appointed on the same day to proceed to Edinburgh, in order that the whole
affair might be laid before the Lords of His Majesty's Privy Council. Soon
after this date a portion of Christian Shaw's " Narrative " is likely to have been
put together; but whatever she may have said was shaped and influenced so much
by different members of Presbytery, that it may be said to be rather the production
of the reverend court than a genuine account of personal experiences. In due
course the Privy Council granted a Commission to Lord Blantyre and other
gentlemen in the neighbourhood for the taking of evidence, and so preparing
matters that a formal trial, if necessary, might be made of any alleged to be
concerned in the mysterious visitation. In the course of their sittings at Renfrew
during February, 1697, the Commissioners obtained the "confession" of three
people — two lads named Lindsay and an Elizabeth Anderson— as accessories
with at least seven others in the bewitching of Christian Shaw. The Lindsays,
who testified against their grandmother, were only striplings of twelve or fourteen
years of age, while Anderson, who implicated her own father, was but seventeen.
The testimony of these witnesses was judged to be of such importance that on
the last day of meeting the Commissioners desired they should be severally kept
by turns in the houses of members of Presbytery, that the ministers might have
an opportunity of dealing with their conscience till further steps could be taken
by the authority. A report, to be afterwards referred to, was presented to the
Privy Council, and a commission appointed for trial in March. Meanwhile
spiritual efforts were not neglected. On the 24th of that month the Presbytery
of Paisley, "considering the great rage of Satan in this comer of the land, and

f

THE RENFREWSHIRE WITCHES. 281

particularly the continued trouble of Bargarran's daughter, which is a great
evidence of the Lord's displeasure so to let Satan loose among us," the Presbytery
therefore judge it necessary to set apart a day of solemn humiliation and fasting
to "wrestle with God in prayer, that he may restrain Satan's rage, and relieve
that poor afflicted damsel." The new Commission, made up of the best known
gentlemen in the West Country, with the accomplished Sir James Stuart as
King's Advocate, commenced their sittings at Paisley in April, when business
was preceded with a sermon by the Rev. Mr. Hutcheson from the suggestive
text, "Thou shalt not suffer a witch to live." An illegal deputation from the
Presbytery was also associated with the Commissioners for "dealing with the
conscience of those on whom the insensible marks are found, in order to their being
brought to confession, as they shall with the Commissioners concert the method
of the same." Following the course usually observed on such occasions, the
Commission would send a report of the evidence taken to the Privy Council,
but no trace of the document has been found in recent years. Some help as
to the nature of its contents may be found in an informal "Abbreviate of the
Precognition and Report," made by the first or preliminary Commission for
taking evidence. The occurrences there spoken to were of the usual marvellous
and impossible description. The deluded maid Anderson affirmed that she
had seen Satan speak to her grandmother in the likeness of "a black, grim
man," with a very cold hand; that she had been repeatedly at witch-gatherings
on Kilmalcolm Moor, above the village of Kilpatrick, and in the manse garden
at Dumbarton, Satan being always present, and engaging freely in conversation.
In particular, Anderson confessed to being present in Bargarran orchard when
the destruction of Christian Shaw was contrived. Some, she said, were for
stabbing, others for choking, and a third for hanging her; but fearing they
might be taken before next morning, their lord, as they called him — " the black,
grim man "—gave them a piece of unchristened child's heart to cat, telling them
that though they were apprehended they should never confess. So far as con-
fession was concerned, witness was threatened with being torn to pieces, especially

aSa

THE WEST COUNTRY IN mSTORY.

by Maggy Lang, or "Pinched Maggy," as she was called. After two hours, or
thereby (the witness gravely concluded) the whole party disappeared in a flight,
but she herself went home on foot. The testimony of the two Lindsay lads was
so similar in detail as to afford strong presumption that the monstrous story was
concocted by some person equally credulous but more experienced than them-
selves. From the want of any oflicial record of the court's proceedings it is
impossible to say how many were indicted, or "deleted," as it was called, for
these imaginary and impossible crimes. Even the victims who suffered can only
be indicated in a doubtful way. The number, according to all accounts, would
appear to have been seven, and from a note appended to the reprint by Mr. U.
Semple their names would seem to have been— John Lindsay, cottar, Barloch;
James Lindsay, cottar, Bilboe; John Reid, smith, Hapland; Margaret Lang,
Cartyrapen; Margaret Fulton, Dumbarton; Catherine Campbell, servant, Bargarran;
and Agnes Naismith, probably of Old Kilpatrick. On what strict principle of
law these seven could be found either more or less guilty than the other panels
on charges so preposterous as to be incapable of proof by evidence of any kind
is never likely to be ascertained. If the slightest reliance could be placed on
the incoherent ramblings of the girl Anderson, some of the women at least may
be presumed to have been well up in years — possibly old and wrinkled, poor
and friendless — in all these respects, unUke the witches of modern days, who
cast their spells over poor humanity under quite different conditions. There is
not only a want in the way of documents concerning the proceedings of the
Commissioners, but it would appear as if even the municipal records of Fiusley
failed to furnish any reference to this extraordinary series of executions which may
be presumed to have been carried out under authority of the burgh magistrates.
As the Kirk introduces us to the case, so is it from the Presbytery records we get
the last glimpse of the vicliras, Tiie burning was fixed for the lotli June, On May
19, three ministers of the Presbytery were appointed to converse as frequently
as they could with the seven persons condemned to die for witchcraft, and two
were appointed to preach special sermons on the day preceding the execution.

i

THE RENFREWSHIRE WITCHES. 283

A few days after this date, the prospect of the horrid end at the Gallowgreen
induced one of the prisoners to commit suicide in the Tolbooth of Paisley.
The final note in the tragedy is sounded in a minute of date June 9, when
the Presbytery "did appoint the whole members to spend some time this night
with the condemned persons who are to die to-morrow, and did allot to each
one or two of the brethren one of the sentenced persons to be dealt with by
them, AND WAITED UPON TO THE FIRE." The threatened sacrifice of six victims
would not appear to have rid the country as yet of the Evil One. He was
now at large — ^indeed, under form of law, more jubilant than ever, and in
appearance not unlike the Bargarran invention — "a black, grim man." And
yet the Kirk must not be made to bear all the blame. Belief in witchcraft
was a feature of the age, and that too in highly accomplished circles, legal and
medical, as well as clerical. Even in enlightened England, and fifty years after
this Paisley case, Ruth Osborne, aged seventy, was drowned in Herefordshire
by a disorderly mob for the imputed offence of bewitching her neighbours. One
of the ringleaders was certainly hanged for his share in the riot, but the occurrence
at Tring is sufficient to show how widely and recently the delusion prevailed.
So far as the Renfirewshire case was concerned, the King's advocate would
appear to have spoken as if he sincerely judged the stories in his brief to be
capable of verification, and were in point of fact verified by the witnesses pro-
duced. Nor can it be said that, in comparison with other trials of the kind,
he pressed unduly for a conviction. The law recognised the imputed offence,
and it must therefore be held as capable of proof Judging from such " Accounts "
and ''Abbreviates" as have been preserved, the Court may be said to have
looked with clear enough eyes on the case, but imhappily with lesser light to
guide them than shines in our better days. The most that may be inferred from
the case is that no profession of faith, however orthodox, nor any form of belief,
however sincerely entertained, can secure either just judgment or merciful conduct
From a case raised in the local courts soon after the trial, it would appear that
Neil Snodgrass, writer, was subjected to some abuse for the part he had taken

384

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

d

in defending the witches. Trials for witchcraft, or at least a belief in the super-
stition, still exist in the Highlands. The last execution for witchcraft in Scotland
took place at Domock, Suthcriandshire, in 1727, Although the month was
June, it has been handed down by tradition that the weather was very severe,
and the poor old woman victim, after being brought out to get tied to a tat
barrel, sat composedly warming herself by the fire prepared to consume her,
while the other instruments of death were being made ready, The Acts of Queen
Mary and King James authorising such executions were formally repealed by the
Parliament of Great Britain, in June, 1736. It became from that time incom-
petent to institute any suit for " witchcraft, sorcery, enchantment, or conjurations,"
and only a crime to pretend to exercise such acts, liable to be punished by
imprisonment and pillory. So far as the Bargarran family is concerned, it is
pleasant to know that they came to distinguish themselves more honourably in what
is now one of the most extensive industries of the district, the Lady Bargarran and
her daughters being the first to engage in the spinning of a fine linen thread,
"cheap and white, and known by experience to be much stronger than the Dutch,"
and the reputation of which they sought to protect by a trade-mark made up
from the family armorial bearing of three covered cups.

PAISLEY ABBEY.

Is noticing the " Judicial Records of Renfrewshire," occasion was taken to point
out how few of those gathered together by Mr. Hector bore in even an indirect
way on the history of the grand old Clugniac Abbey so intimately associated with
the ecclesiastical renown of the county. Soon after, a neat quarto volume was
issued from the Paisley press (Parlane, 1876), dealing exclusively with the Abbey,
and illustrating many noteworthy occurrences which took place within or around
the monastic fabric reared and endowed by the piety of the early Stewarts in the

PAISLE Y ABBE Y. 285

cradle of their race. While nothing but fair words need to be set down regarding
either the design or execution of the work, it still leaves large spaces in the
historic canvas to be filled in by some patient antiquary less intent on what
records suggest than on what they describe. The author is mentioned as
gathering some scanty lichens — antique, yellow, or gray, as they may happen,
encrusted through seven centuries in the Gothic mouldings of the Abbey. To
preserve some fragmentary leaves, too obscure it may be for the general
historian, yet precious, because history is a mosaic, and composed in its finest
pictures of infinitesimal details which are apt to be overlooked — to diverge where
divergence is useful, to linger where delay is sweet; this, and no more, do these
pages propose; no more do they offer to the reader; and, to avoid disappointment,
for no more should the reader look. With the delicious ease of a practised
writer, a hand at once firm and delicate, and an eye careless a little of things
near or common, but fond of setting forth affinities or relations, dim at first, apt
to be overlooked, but never quite inappropriate — the writer passes down through
century after century of the Abbey annals, reflecting a very large portion of the
country's ecclesiastical history. The rise of the first Stewards and the arrival on
the White Cart of the monks from Wenlock are illustrated by the foundation and
other charters of the Abbey. Of the founder himself much interesting information
is given in a series of chapters relating to Walter the Steward and his wife
Marjory, daughter of King Robert Bruce. In the early days of the Abbey,
when the Cart stole softly among lilies and reeds, when the outer land waved
with corn-fields, and the near land was white and red with orchard blooms,
nothing, says the writer, could have been fairer or more sweet to see than the
rich and low land set in its upland frame. But it is a picture of the past
Orchard and corn-fields are historical " In the black and slow winding water a
cress, or a lily, or a reed would now be as great an anachronism as if the
Crusading Steward who gave gifts to the Abbey long ago were to appear with
cross upon his armour in the dull, modem streets." Of Marjory it is remarked the
people will have her a Queen — a monument of unknown origin must be ''Queen

386

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

Blearie's Slane. " Marjory {so the story is lotd) on an autumn day was foUowii^l
Ihe sport she loved, chasing the fallow deer in her husband's oak forest of Paisley,
when she was thrown from her horse, not far from her own castle, and lifted,
with dead young face, from among the drifted leaves. They raised the cross of
stone on the spot where the Princess fell. Long after every vestige of the oak
forest was gone, among the low tufts of broom and wild roses stood this old
solitary cross. If ever inscription was carved upon it, it was long worn away,
but the fond tradition of its name lingered tenaciously around it, not to be
dispelled by any reasoning that Marjory was not a Queen, After having been
preserved for four centuries the cross was demolished. Some hundred years ago,
when Pennant wrote, part of it formed the lintel of a neighbouring bam — a
vandalism not to be wondered at when the Abbey itself was despoiled, and its
images, even then, lay broken in the open cloister among the rank neglected
grass (p. no). Imagination, it is mentioned elsewhere, can hardly realise the
despoiling of the Abbey by commniand of tiic reforming lords — how the monks
fied from their convent through the eager streets, gray old men who had almost
forgotten how the outside world fared, whose grandfathers remembered Paul
Crawar, the Bohemian, and his burning at St Andrew's Cross; and men in their
early prime, who were youths when Wishart, the gentle laird, preached on the
Mauchlinc Moor among the broom and the May flowers; and as vainly, it may be
asked, how the young Abbot Claude demeaned himself among his fiying
monks— how he brooked to see the crowd of townsmen assail his convent gates,
and to hear his voice derided and ignored within his own Abbey walls —
how he saw with helpless hands all the wealth of the shrines scattered, and
scorned by the meanest there as an unholy thing — scorned by poor weak men and
women who had often crept to the gate of the monastery, taken their dole from
the hands of the monks, and asked their blessing and their prayer. The work
of that August day laid choir and north transept in ruins, shattered the house of
the abbot, the guestan-house, library, scriptorium, filled the cloister-court with
the debris of the beautiful still retreatj but it left the nave entire, desolate,

PAISLEY ABBEY. 287

profaned indeed, but with no mark of violence. It left a church for the people
— a church for worship in the new form amidst the ruins of the old (p. 270).
Under some such conditions were the sacred shrines thrown down, and the
pleasant gardens laid waste. The splendour of the fabric may be inferred from
the circumstance that the mason work was held in charge by the same craftsman
who looked after Melrose and Glasgow — that Melrose, whose chroniclers gave
their old abbot no undue praise when they wrote — "Jocelinus episcopus
sedem episcopalem dilatavit et Sancti Kentegerni ecclesiam gloriose magni-
ficavit" The work of the despoiler in these days was authorised by a
missive commanding certain of those to whom it was addressed to pass
incontinent to the kirk, ''and tak' doun ye haill images yrof, and bring
furth till ye kirkyard, and bim them oppingly, and syklyk cast doun
ye alteris and picturis, and purge ye said kirks of all kinds of monuments
of idolatry." For much pleasant gossip concerning those who bore rule in the
Abbey, Abbot Shaw among the rest, for the erection of the chapel dedicated
to St. Mirren, and for the early burghal life of Paisley, the "lichens" themselves
must be turned over and the old-world fragrance inhaled Less is made of
some of the Abbey benefactors than might have been expected — pre-eminently
of the great House of Lennox — Saxon most likely in origin, but swarming in a
century or two with Celtic Donalds and Gilchrists. In consideration of various
pious motives set forth in charters, certain Earls of the first Lennox succession
granted lands in different parts of their wide domain to the stately Abbey
on the Cart, and gave the monks beside many valuable fishing rights within
the rivers Clyde and Leven. By one charter, dated on the day of St Valentine
the Martyr (14th February), 1273, Earl Malcolm granted to the Abbey and Convent
of Paisley certain fishings in the Leven, with land adjoining the highway to
Dumbarton; also wood from his grove of Bonhill, pasture for eight oxen, and
such wood and stone as might be required to carry on the fishing. Other
charters provide for the protection of the monks when passing through lonely
places to look after their Leven or other fishings.

i88 THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

To readers who care about contrasting times past with times present.
Paisley Abbey has an interest apart from even its own old chronicles. It is
not only one among the few ecclesiastical foundations spared from pre-Refomia-
tion tiroes, but it presents the still rarer disiinction of preserving some measure
of its seemliness amid all the noise, activity, and change incident to that modern
commerce by which it is so closely hemmed in and ovcrshadoivcd. With most
other old abbeys this is not the case. Lincluden, Dundrennan, and New Abbey,
in the south, are only so many charming ruins in their still wooded solitudes;
Crossraguel, a former dependency of Paisley, is as undisturbed by trade as
when Abbot Allan was roasted "quick" by Gilbert, the wicked Earl of Cassilis.
A transept gable at Kilwinning, the masonic glory of Hugh de Morville — the
honoured mother of a wide-spread family — still represents, amid quiet graves,
the crafts concerned in the rearing of that temple where

No wotknisui steel, no ponderous axes niog.
Like tome lall palm the ooiselest Eabric sprung.

Cambuskenneth still ilings its lone shadow across the quiet links of Forth;
the mouldering cloisters of Tironensian Lindores may slill be seen on the edge
of the majestic Tay looking out from her own sequestered hamlet of Newburgh
across to the sylvan quietness of Errol; Drj'burgh and Melrose, Kelso and
Jedburgh, all exist more or less amid the pastoral surroundings in which tlicy
were first planted. AVith Paisley Abbey all is changed— nothing but contrasts
between what was and is. The once rippling and silvery Cart now a sluggish and
pestilent drain; the trim gardens of the monks, the richly-laden fruit trees, the
waving grain and rich pasture land, the browsing cattle and frisking lambs, have all
been edged out of the scene by such modern conditions of hfe as made their
existence impossible. At Paisley Station any railway passenger may take in at
a glance from tlie train the most important elements in the past and present
forces of social life. On one side the mined Abbey, rich with the memory of
portly abbots, and still fragrant in imagination with the good cheer of the

PAISLE Y ABBE Y. 289

refectory; on the other a typical illustration of the triumphs of modem science —
an iron shipbuilding yard full of noise and bustle, and requiring ingenious
appliances in the way of machinery, none the less that room is scarce and the
situation unfavourable. Closer still to the traveller there is (1880) on one side of
the bridge a prison, rendered partly necessary by the want, misery, and temptation
which may be presumed to exist low down on the other side. When the last
School Board fight was at its keenest the poor and weary denizens at this point
on the Cart might have been seen basking with their bairns in that late spring
sunshine, visiting them as bountifully as when abbots bore sway, and enjoyed as
gratefully as when there was no prison to control their liberty or school board to
vex their ignorance. The Abbey fabric itself presents much of the contrast we
are indicating between the past and present The zeal of the Reformers spared
the nave, still used on Sundays, but the choir and transept, the library and
scriptorium, the abbot's house and the guests' chamber, were all so far destroyed
as only to be useful in reminding the student of days when churches could be
filled without << Revivals," and no part of the graceful fabric be considered useless
or unnecessary in the service : —

Behold a stately fane, by pious bailders

Raised of old, for worship of Jehovah;

AVithin its long, withdrawing aisles

Attendant monks in slow procession go,

Chanting praise of Him who died upon the Cross.

On festal days the people crowd its sacred courts,

And join in that triumphant hyvan. of Praise

To "God the Father,*' and to "Christ the Kmg of Gloiy,"

Which still swells the heart of gladdened worshippers.

And sends them home renewed in vigour for their daily life.

With a minuteness not likely to be thought tedious by any connected with

Paisley, tlie enthusiasm of ex-Provost Brown in the cause of his old "Pedagogue"

incited him to draw up a history of the Burgh Grammar School, not more

remarkable for accuracy of detail than profusion of illustration and order in

arrangement. From the old charter of foundation to a record so ephemeral as a

19

apo THE WEST COUNTRY IN EISTORY.

prize list ; from a poitniit of King James to a portrait of the janitor, not omitting

the author ; from a statement of old endowments to speeches by new subscril>ers
— all have been gathered into a volume certain to be treasured by many as a
memorial of days when they "were boys together," and useful to others at the
same time as a book of reference on all matters relating to the school. Nor
is it the least praise due Mr. Brown to mention that, while the teachers are
introduced to the reader primarily, of course, in connection with their work,
he also takes frequent occasion to notice their private or social accomplishments,
so that old pupils may renew acquaintance with a master and not be quite over-
whelmed by that severe dignity naturally associated with a real rector in office
like Peddle, or Hunter, or Brunton. Of James Pcddie, an English school
pupil so distinguished as " Christopher North " describes , his jubilee dinner as
only a fitting reward to a man as blameless as he was useful, and whose whole
life had been devoted to the training of youth in habits of decorum and rectitude.
Most others also appear to have shown the utmost consideration for their pupils,
or, like Goldsmith's teacher, " if severe in aught, the love they bore to learning
was in fault" Paisley Grammar School, to which the larger portion of Mr, Brown's
volume is devoted, was founded by King James VI., in 1576, the tenth year
of his reign and the tenth of his birth, this being probably due to the mediation
of the Rev. Patrick Adamson, first Reformed minister of the Abbey Parish,
but at the date of the grant acting as chaphin to the Regent Morton. The
deed provides for the government of the school by the magistrates and councillors
of the burgh, and for its erection and support grants to their successors for
ever, the altarages of St Mirren and Colcmba, of St. Ninian, of St Mary the
Virgin, St Nicholas, St Peter, St. Catherine, and St Anne, the chapel of
SL Roque or St Rollox, and seven roods of ground adjacent, with the pittances ■
of money, obit silver, and commons formerly possessed and lifted by the monks of
Paisley monastery, as appears from a stone still preserved but removed from time to
time as the building was changed. The first fabric was erected in 1586, and the
site Mr. Brown concludes, after some hesitation, was on the south side of the Old

PAISLE Y GRAMMAR SCHOOL. 291

School Wynd, then a vennel or passage leading to the Barnyard, where there was a
port, and to Oakshaw, on the site of the Chapel of St Nicholas. There appears to
have been two class-rooms, one used for the Grammar School proper, the
other as a singing or "sang school" The patronage, although formally vested
in the council, appear to have been practically exercised at a very early period
by the Church. In 1604 the magistrates remitted a candidate for the office of
master to the minister of the burgh and Presbytery of Paisley, for the purpose
of making trial of his doctrines and ability to teach. In 1626 another was
appointed after being found qualified by the Presbytery; and in 1689 a William
Stewart, who had become the subject of Church discipline, was apparently
dismissed by the council at the instance of the Presbytery. The magistrates,
however, appear to have been active enough in doing what was then judged
wise to keep up the reputation of the school. In 1647, when John Tannahill
was to be appointed, if found qualified, for his further encouragement the
council conclude that all men children shall go to the Grammar School, that
all woman schools be discharged from receiving boys imder pain of censure,
and that no woman whatever keep a school from All-Hallowday next but such
as upon their petition might be allowed by the council This resolution was
proclaimed over the buigh next year by " de tuck of drum." Formal visitations
would seem to have commenced in 1646, when the council appointed the school
to be visited once a month by the bailies and ministers. One instance of
undue severity occurs in the records this year, and may have something to do
with the "visitation." In June of that year "Doctor" Lawson was to be
absolutely discharged, that "he strike nane of the scholars within the school of
Paisley hereafter, and that he shall take no such authority on him; and if he
do in the future contrary, the first bairn he strikes it is concluded that he be
removed from the school" It is to be feared the warning was useless, as
dismissal followed within a few months. In immediate connection with his
subjects, and extremely interesting besides on their own accoimt, are the extracts
gleaned by Mr. Brown from the records of his own and other burghs, especially

spa THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

in so far as these throw light on the two great calamities of war and pestilence.
In December, 1645, the bailies and council of Glasgow, "talcing to their consider-
ation the lamentable estate and condition of the poor people within the town of
Paisley, and of the hard straits they are brought to by God's visitation of the
plague of pestilence lying upon them now for this long time, for this present
supply they have condescended to bestow upon them twenty bolls of meal."
During the January following John Park, mealman, Causeyside, for falsely
asserting that the bailies of Paisley had acted unfairly in dividing this meal
among the rich and not among the poor, was lined three doUais and laid six
hours in the stocks. Leprous persons could only be abroad two days of the
week for two hours at a time, "and not to go into any house, but to have
dappers to call the people out, under pain of punishment" At the dose of
1650, when Cromwell's troops were mardiing on the burgh, "the council
appoint that the shire's arms that are in the Tolbooth shall this night
be transferred thereof, and carried to come convenient place where the same
may be hidden from the enemy. The Royalist defeat at Worcester appears to
have led to an entire abolition of local courts. In April, 165a, the coundl agreed,
" because there may not be a head court holden, in respect that the English by
their declaration have discharged all courts, it is concluded that upon Thursday
next, the penult of this instant, which should be the head court day, the bailies
and council shall meet in James Alexander's, bailie, his heich hall, and there
shall elect a new treasurer for the aifairs of the town, and shall create any
burgesses that shall happen to be, and receive resignation if any be, and book
those having right into common lands." As became a body of patrons who as
far back as 1620 had subscribed to encourage "a pleasant Invention or Play,"
the council in 170Z made a grant of twenty pounds Scots towards expenses
incurred by the scholars in acting "Bellum Gramaticale," and the then "Doctor"
was allowed seven pounds two shillings Scots (tos. 6d.) to buy a new hat with,
" towards his farther encouragement, for pains in attending to the school by and
attoure his salary." Other town schools undertaken with a view of completing

ALEXANDER WILSON, ORNITHOLOGIST. 293

the work of education, or called into existence by some passing inefficiency in
the Grammar School, are carefully treated by Mr. Brown in separate chapters.
In this there is set forth in a way at once pleasant and instructive all necessary
details concerning the origin, history, and teachers of the English, Commercial,
and Low Parish Schools. By ''town's schools," Mr. Brown means schools over
which the council exercised more or less control, or at least in which they took some
special interest Denominational schools are not referred to, nor is the question
raised how they came into existence, what they have done, or what they have
cost This field is still open, and open in other quarters than Paisley. Another
chapter of Mr. Brown's book relates the more recent history of the Grammar
School and Academy, this necessarily involving an accoimt of the praiseworthy
efforts made by the author, as chairman of the committee of subscribers, to carry
out the erection of a suitable new fabric in Oakshaw Street, in which such a
curriculum would be observed as might fit pupils for proceeding direct to the
University, or entering upon the business of life. The period embraced by
this chapter extends from September, 1864, when the building was opened, till
the examination of June, 1873, when it ceased to be under the management of
the Town Council and subscribers, and came under the control of the local
School Board in terms of the Education Act.

ALEXANDER WILSON, ORNITHOLOGIST.

" Paisley reprints " being as a rule rather superior in appearance to the original
editions, it is pleasant to record (1876) that no falling off is presented by two
volumes containing the writings of a native so humorous as the author of
" Watty and Meg," and famous afterwards in the far different field of American
Ornithology. A reprint (Gardner) is hardly the word to describe the result of

Tim WEST COUNTRY m HISTORY.

Mr. Grosart's labours, nor, it is but fair to saj-, is it used by editor or publisher.
It is only a reprint in the very limited sense of presenting some matter which
had been in print before, and much which might have been but never was
gathered together in any orderly form, For the main facts m Wilson's life,
reliance up to this time had to be placed on two distinct authorities, domestic
and scientific. For the early home, or Paisley days, the unwearied labours of
Thomas Crichlon, Master of the Town's Hospital, gave welcome help to the
reader. Such outline as was given of American experiences had to be sought
for in the "Sketch" prepared by his friend Ord for the closing volume of the
"Ornithology," or in still more fragmentary notices written for new editions
of that work by Sir William Jardine, Prince C. L. Bonaparte, and Dr. W. M.
Hetherington, Under Mr, Grosart's care, Wilson's letters and miscellaneous
writings are now made to tell the story of Wilson's life. Of ninety-six letters,
forming by far the largest portion of the first volume, thirteen are here printed
for the first lime, and as many as seventy-four carefully corrected and edited.
This should surely satisfy the ambition of even a labourer so zealous and a
scholar so exact as the editor of the " Fuller Worthies," The first five letters
written in 1788-9 are addressed to David Brodie, schoolmaster, Quarrelton;
the other long and deeply interesting series — sent, some to Brodie, some to
his father, others to his friends, Bartram, Orr, and Duncan— extends from 1794,
the year of his arrival in the States, to 1813, the year of his death— the last,
from Philadelphia, in July, describing the writer as far from being in good
health. "Intense application to study has hurt me much. My eighth volume
is now in the press, and will be published in November, One volume more
will complete the whole." The letters are preceded by what Mr. Grosart calls
a " memorial introduction " from his own pen — throughout which he is very
far from following the charming simplicity of Wilson's style — and is most
appropriately closed witli various essays, prefatory or descriptive, from the
" Ornithology."

Before dealing with the second or poetical volume, a word or two on

ALEXANDER WILSON, ORNITHOLOGIST. 295

Wilson's early life is necessary to let the reader fully understand the great merit
of Mr. Grosart's work. Bom in what is still known as the Seedhill of Paisley,
6th July, 1766, Wilson's father, also Alexander, and his mother, Mary M'Nab, a
native of Row, Dumbartonshu-e, appear at a very early period to have entertained
an ambition that their "Alic" should enter the Church. This at least maybe
inferred from the ornithologist's own account in his "Solitary Tutor": —

His parents saw, with partial fond delight,
Unfolding genius crown their fostering care,

And talked with tears, of that enrapturing sight.
When, clad in sable gown, with solemn air.
The walls of God's own House should echo back his prayer.

It is not clear, however, that his training at the Grammar School (then presided
over by John Davidson) had any special reference to Church work, or that his
attendance there was an3^hing else than limited, interrupted, and imperfect As
his fame was to be won later in the woods, so was he sent early to the fields,
being employed as a herd laddie at the farm of Bakerfield in the neighbourhood.
The tradition is that he was a very careless herd, busying himself too often with
a book to keep the kye out of the com. In his thirteenth year, as appears from
the original indenture in Paisley Museum, Wilson entered upon a three years'
apprenticeship as a weaver to his brother-in-law, William Duncan, and on its
termination wrought for about four years at the loom as a joume3nnan, residing
over that time partly in Paisley and partly in I/Ochwinnoch and Queensferry.
At this latter place, and in conjunction with his first employer, Duncan, Wilson
commenced business as a pedlar or travelling merchant, and availed himself at
the same time of such opportunities as this line of life offered to obtain subscribers
for a small volume of poems, then ready for publication. To his experiences as
a packman readers of Scottish poetry are indebted for " The Loss of the Pack,"
"The Insulted Pedler," and kindred pieces, some of them read in the first
instance by the author to a promiscuous audience in the Pantheon, Edinbuigh.
The "Poems" appeared in 1790, and a second edition, with some alterations,

3^6

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

the following year. "The Spouter," included in the second of Mr. Grosait'a
volumes, seems below Wilson's average style, and may be the work of Some
other hand. The inimitable and ever fresh "Watty and Meg" appeared anony-
mously as a chap-boolt in 1792. Tradition of a sort has identified the two
principal characters in the drama with a certain Watty Matthie and Meg Love, of
Lochwinnoch; but more exact inquiry fixes upon the Seedhiils, Paisley, as the
exact locality, "Mungo Blue" being a certain William Mitchell, keeper of a
change-house there ; " Dryster Jock," a John Campbell employed in the
commit]; and "Pate Tamson," a tanner in the same place. "Watty" and
"Meg" also, Crawfords byname, were welt known to Wilson. Shortly after the
poem appeared, " Meg" is reported to Iiave said to her husband, " D'ye ken
what lang Sandy Wilson, the poet, has done? He has 'poemed' us." It is yet
open to an artist familiar with old Paisley life to make a reputation by setting
forth that exquisite street scene —

Folk frtie every door came kmpine,

Maggy cQnt them anc and a';
Clappit wi' her hands, and stamping,

Lost her bauchles i' the snaw.

Like many other enthusiasts, Mr. Grosart, to elevate Wilson, is somewhat lesa
than fair to others. Hector Macneil, for instance, the author of a kindred ballad |
to " Watty and Meg," known as " Scotland's Skaith," or " Will and Jean," i
spoken of as a vapid, watery imitator; and this, although the common people for 1
whom they were written, and who in such a case are the real test of popularity, 1
are known to have purchased ihera gladly at the rate of 10,000 in one month. I
Neither should it be forgotten that Wilson himself never again came up to the I
mark of "Watty and Meg;" while Macneil wrote such songs as "Saw ye my J
wee Thing?" " My Boy, Tammy," and " Come under my Plaidie," with none of ]
which can any of Wilson's songs be compared. Even "The Disconsolate
Wren," his next best piece, is only in the second or third rank of Scottish]
ballads. The incongruous combination of "snaw" and "sawing" in the first ]

ALEXANDER WILSON, ORNITHOLOGIST. 297

verse of "Watty and Meg" has been frequently pointed out, and many
ingenious theories started touching the kind of "sawing** in which the hero was
engaged, but none fits so well as the necessity occasionally laid on poets far
higher in reputation than Wilson of using words which simply rhyme or rattle
without much reference to fitness in other respects. A rhyme was wanted for
"blawing/' "snawing"was ready, even in seed time, and so "Watty" was left
to waste his treasure on the white drift till wearied, when, if the record is to be
followed, he

Danna'd doon to Mango Blew's.

Sometime about 1792 Wilson had resumed the loom in Paisley, but chafing
under ungenial restraint, in a time of great local excitement he launched the
shafls of his satire against certain well-known neighbours, described as "The
Shark," "Light Weight," &a The hapless poet was in consequence adjudged
guilty of libel, and thrown into prison. A painful letter to his friend Brodie,
marked as not printed before, reveals the sad straits to which he was reduced at
this time: —

"Paisley Jail, 2Ut May, 1793.
"Dear Sib,

"When I last wrote yon nothing bat absolute necessity woald have

prevailed on me to make the requisition I then did, and sorry I was that that necessity should

ever have cause to exist. I sincerely thank you for the token of friendship which yoa sent

me, which I will repay as soon as Providence shall open the door for my release from thb

new scene of misery — this assemblage of wretches and wretchedness — where the rumbling of

bolts, the hoarse exclamations of the jailor, the sighs and sallow countenances of the prisoners,

and the general gloom of the place require all the exertions of resolution to be cheerful and

resigned to the will of fate, particidarly those who have no prospect or expectation of liberty.

Being perfectly unable to pay the sum awarded against me, which is in toto ;^I2, 13s. 6d.,

I yesterday gave oath accordingly, and had the comfort to be told that Mr. Sharp was resolved

to punish me, though it should cost him a little money. However, I shall know after a little

more confinement of two days or sa Meantime^ to have a line or two from you would bo

an additional favour to,

"Dear Sir,

"Your obliged Servant,

"A. WILSON."

agS

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY,

Poor, discontented, looked upon as a suspicious character, and with no
encumbrance beyond what he recognised as existing towards his father's house-
hold, when liberty came, Wilson turned his gaze across the Atlantic to the
States where some friends had preceded him. Along with a nephew, William
Duncan, he left Belfast Loch in the ship "Swift," 23rd May, 1794, with a mixed
body of passengers, 350 in number, and arrived off Cape Delaware, nth July,
A long and affectionate letter was despatched to his father in a few days from
Philadelphia. Wilson's first employment was in a copper-plate printer's office,
a trade for which he is not known to have received any special training; then
the pack was resumed for a short time, and finally he settled down as a school-
master in the township of Kingess, about four miles from the Quaker city.
This fixed Wilson's career. From early life, as may be seen in his poetiy,
he had been fond of all feathered creatures. With the mavis and the blackbird,
the robin and the wren, and pigeons of all kinds, he was on the most familiar
terms. At Philadelphia was the garden of William Bartram, an experienced
botanist and naturalist, and a warm friend of Wilson's to the close of life; and
there, too, was Lawson the engraver, who willingly seconded his efforts at sclf-
iostniction and drawing from nature and etching. The beginning of Wilson's
great work appears to have been simple enough. In June, 1803, he writes to
his old friend Crichton:^"! have had many pursuits since I left Scotland —
mathematics, the German language, music, drawing, &c, and I am now about
to make a collection of all our finest birds." Henceforward, writes Mr. Grosart,
Wilson devoted himself to this casually announced collection of all America's
finest birds "with a consecration of intellect and heart, scrutinising observation,
and beautiful enthusiasm that thrill one across half the century and more. North
and south, east and west, he Journeyed, gun in hand, in forest, brushwood, reeded
swamp, river, lake, mountain, everywhere, with a burning passion, combined with
a modest patience of research very wonderful." In the fall of 1804, he under-
took a two months' pedestrian tour to Utica, making in some days forty-seven
miles, and traversing in all upwards of i,aoD. 1809 saw him as far south as

ALEXANDER WILSON, ORNITHOLOGIST. 299

Carolina, during which excursion, as he wrote to his father, he visited every
town within 150 miles of the Atlantic coast, from the River St. Lawrence to
St Augustine in Florida. Towns were visited chiefly from the facilities they
afforded for obtaining subscribers to the "Ornithology," not always a welcome
mission to the author. One entry in his diary runs— "Visited a number of the
literati and wealthy of Cincinnati, who all told me they would think of subscribing."
They are (Wilson dryly adds) a very thoughtful people. Another thought
such a book should not be encouraged, as it was not within the reach of common
people, and therefore inconsistent with Republican institutions. Worse still from
the Governor of Staten Island: "He turned over a few pages, looked at a
picture or two, asked my price, and, while in the act of closing the book,
added — 'I would not give a hundred dollars for all the birds you intend to de-
scribe, even had I them alive.'" Pleasant exceptions now and then occurred
to such treatment. One merits special mention, a landlord bearing the honoured
name of Isaac Walton refusing to take anything for keeping either the wanderer
or his horse : — " You seem (the diary records) to be travelling for the good
of the world, and I cannot and will not charge you anything. Whenever you
come this way call and stay with me — you shall be welcome." The great journey
to Pittsburg is referred to in a letter to his father, February 181 1: —

"My last route was across the Alleghany Mountains to Pittsburg, thence to
the falls of the Ohio — 720 miles alone in a boat— thence through the Chickasaw
and Choctaw country (nations of Indians), and West Florida to New Orleans,
in which journey I sustained considerable hardship, having many dangerous
creeks to swim, and having to encamp for thirteen different nights in the woods
alone. From New Orleans I sailed to East Florida, furnished with a letter
to the Spanish Governor there, and visited a number of the islands that lie to
the south of the peninsula. I returned to Philadelphia on the 2nd of September
last, after an absence of seven months. In prosecuting this journey I had
sometimes to kindle a large Are; I then stripped the canes for my horse, ate
a bit of supper, and lay down to sleep, listening to the owls and cheekwills,

300 THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

and to a kind of whip-poor-will that are veiy numerous. On the fourteenth
day of my journey I arrived at Natchez, Mississippi, after having overcome
every obstacle alone, and without being acquainted with the country, and, what
surprised the boatmen more, without whisky."

During this Southern journey Wilson picked up his famous Carolina
parrot, described with much minuteness in the third volume of the " Ornithology."
"When at night (he writes) I encamped in the woods I placed it on the
baggage beside me, where it usually sat with great composure, dozing and
gazing at the fire till morning. In this manner I carried it upwards of a
thousand miles in my pocket, where it was exposed all day to the jolting of
the horse, but regularly liberated at meal times and in the evening, at which
it always expressed great satisfaction. In passing through the Chickasaw and
Choctaw nations, the Indians, wherever I stopped to feed, collected around
me, men, women, and children, laughing, and seeming wonderfully amused
with the novelty of ray companion." Poor Poll was drowned in the Gulf of
Mexico.

HUMANITY OF WILSON.

The following reminds one of Bums' "wee sleekit, cow'rin', tim'roua
beastie " : —

" One of my boys caught a mouse in the school a few days ago, and directly
marched up to me with his prisoner, I set about drawing it that same evening,
and all the while the pantings of its little heart showed it to be in the most
extreme agonies of fear. I had intended to kill it in order to fix it in the
claws of a stuffed owl, but happening to spill a few drops of water near where
it was tied, it lapped it up with such eagerness, and looked in my face with
such an eye of supplicating terror as perfectly overcame me. I immediately
untied it, and restored it to life and liberty. The agonies of the prisoner
at the stake, while the fire and instruments of torment are preparing, could
not be more severe than the sufferings of that poor mouse j and insignificant

ALEXANDER WILSON, ORNITHOLOGIST. 301

as the object was, I felt at that moment the sweet sensation that mercy leaves
on the mind when she triumphs over cruelty."

Wilson appears to have obtained 250 subscribers to his <' Ornithology,"
but the total number printed is not exactly stated. A list of the
names and Institutions is given in the second volume of Mr. Grosart's work,
and among them it is gratifying to observe the University of Glasgow and
the Hunterian Museum. The first volume appeared in 1808, the eighth in 1814,
with the sorrowful annoimcement of the author's death. The end was
characteristic of the man. While sitting in the house of one of his friends,
enjoying the pleasures of conversation, he chanced to see a bird of rare species,
for which he had long been in search. With his usual enthusiasm he ran out,
followed it, swam across a river over which it had flown, fired at, killed, and
obtained the object of his pursuit; but caught a cold, which, bringing on
dysentery, ended in his death, 23rd August, 1813. His remains were deposited
in the burial-ground of the Swedish Church, Southwark District, Philadelphia.
While in good health he is said to have expressed a wish to be laid in some
rural spot where the birds might sing over his grave. It is in a business district
of the city, but on paying a pilgrim visit Mr. Grosart heard an ariole piping
softly and sweetly a few yards from the resting-place of the ornithologist The
two volumes with which we have been dealing present by far the most complete
picture yet sent forth of Wilson the poet and Wilson the ornithologist Here
he appears as he lived — a man possessed of genuine gifts and tender feeling,
allied to indomitable perseverance, unflagging power of endurance, and the
still rarer virtue of thorough simplicity in character. The memorial statue
erected within the enclosure of Paisley Abbey was a fitting tribute to the genius
of one of the most distinguished natives of the old burgh, and a recognition
no less of the increasing fame which Time is sure to gather round the memory
of Alexander Wilson.

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

MOTHERWELL AND CUNNINGHAM.

Similarity in taste, something in style, more in experience, and a great deal
in the fonn of contributions to the minstrelsy of Scotland, make it con-
venient to notice Motherwell and Cunningham together. So far as the work
known as Cromek's "Remains of Nithsdale and Galloway Song" is concerned, a
note prefixed to the latest edition, makes no apology necessary for continuing to
treat it as has been generally done since its first issue, over seventy years since,
as substantially the work of Allan Cunningham, Cromek himself was a fussy yet
useful man in his day, and, although somewhat credulous, did good service to the
ballad literature of Scotland, albeit he was a native of Yorkshire. In his memoir
of Blake as an artist, Cunningham writes of his early patron, the engraver, as
having skill in art and taste in Hteralure, although "honest Allan's" latest editor
sets him down as a sharp man of business, no way averse to take advantage oi
artists working for him. The history of the " Remains," in a published form, is
given with substantial accuracy in the prefatory note already referred to. \Vben
the songs of Bums had been given to the world with judicious care by
Dr. Curric, Cromek became so attracted by tJieir delineations of Scottish life
that he made a pilgrimage to the North, and collected material for his " Reliques
,of Robert Bums," pubiiahed in 1808, and for which lie was made a member
of the Antiquarian Society of Scotland. After its publication he again came
North, and it was during this second visit he met Allan Cunningham, and
secured the material which appears in the Nithsdale and Galloway "Remains."
Cunningham was at the time working as a mason in Dumfriesshire, but neglected
trade in his ardent pursuit of literature; and it was partly through Cromek'a
advice and influence that in the very year when the "Remains" appeared he J
went to London and became connected with the newspaper press. It is said I
that Allan presented some of his poetry to Cromek, but received only feeble |
praise for his productions, until the thought occurred to him that be might i

MOTHERWELL AND CUNNINGHAM. 303

secure more favourable criticisms if he appealed to Cromek*s weak side by saying
they were traditionary remains. The bait took; the patron became enthusiastic,
and the result was *' The Remains of Nithsdale and Galloway Song."

Certain general similarities between Cunningham and Motherwell have
ah-eady been pointed out, but it may be proper to mention in connection
therewith that they overlapped each other in their lives as well as their writings.
Bom in 1784 the boy Cunningham was just beginning to scribble his first lines
when Motherwell was bom in 1797. The first survived his brother poet seven
years, dying in 1842, at the age of fifty-eight, while the younger, born in 1797,
the year after Bums's death, was just spared to exceed the age of Bums by one
year, being laid with honour in our Necropolis in 1835 at the early age of thirty-
eight Cunningham commenced rhytning young, although his more important
printed pieces did not see the light till the "Remains" were printed in 1810,
when the poet had reached the mature age of twenty-six. Motherwell's earliest
work, in the " Harp of Renfrewshire," appeared in 18 19, when he was about
twenty-two. Each forsook his first business in life for journalism, Cunningham
contributing to the London press between the period when he abandoned the
mason trade in Scotland, when he became connected with Chantrey; while
Motherwell forsook his clerkly duties in the Sheriff's office to assume editorial
work, first in connection with the Tory "Advertiser" in Paisley, but latterly, and
with greater prominence, because in his best known days, on the Tory " Courier"
in Glasgow, firom 1830 till his death. Cunningham was nothing of a politician.
Motherwell, on the other hand, was both zealous and informed in the cause he
espoused; and, though it may seem a strange transition to pass from the serene
heights of poetry to the noisy jostling of party strife, the author of Sigurd's
'* Battle Flag" was early embroiled in the Reform excitement, and theijb is no
reason for doubting that he .wrote on politics with as much sincerity, and even
with as great a measure of contentment, as he brought to bear on his ballads and
songs, lliere was still other kindred work engaged in by the two poets.
Cunningham issued his collection of <<The Songs of Scotland, Ancient and

304 THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

Modern," in 1825, and Motherwell his Scottish "Minstrelsy, Ancient and I
Modem," in 1827, each having followed out in his own way the lines laid down
by Scott in his Border "Minstrelsy," issued from Eallantyne's Kelso press in
i8o3. Again, both poets were ardent admirers of Boms, and each issued an
edition of his works, which appeared the same year (1834), Motherwell being
associated in his task with James Hogg. Each of them also imitated the ancient
ballads, and amused friends with them as genuine antiques. In gifts they
were not far removed. It may be, and indeed it is certain, that there is
nothing in Cunningham quite up to the level of "Jeannie Morrison," or "My
Held is Like to Rend, Williej" but, as in the case of his townsman, Alexander
Wilson (see p. 296), it should be remembered that Motherwell himself
nowhere else rises to the same height So sound a judge as Miss Mitford doubted
if even among all the writings of Bums there was anything so exquisitely finished,
so free from a line too many or a word out of place as these two lyric ballads.
In other pieces, whether they be songs or ballads, the advantage will often be
found to lie with the author of "A \Vct Sheet and a Flowing Sea." For a lands-
man, never familiar with the sea beyond an occasional trip in a Margate hoy,
to have written such a song at all is in itself a marvel. "The Mermaid of
Galloway," and "Bonnie Lady Ann," both included in the "Remains," are
quite equal to either "The Master of Wcemys" or "The Song of the Danish
Sea King." But where so much is excellent in botli, further distinction or
parallel may appear invidious. The old words used by Motherwell in dedicating
the "Poems" to his friend Kennedy may be applied to each — "A posie of
gilly-flowers, each differing from other in colour and odour, yet all sweete."
The claim made by Dr. M'Connechy to a distinguished place for his friend
among the minor poets is not likely to be disputed, as he has undoubtedly
enriched the language with many noble specimens of song. The Doctor's
carefully written memoir of his friend, whom he succeeded in the editorial
chair of the "Courier," is prefixed to Mr. Gardner's "Reprint," as prepared for
the edition of 1846. "Christopher North" found concentrated in Motherwell

MOTHERWELL AND CUNNINGHAM. 305

clearness in perception, soundness in sense, and fine but strong sensibilities, all
leading him to the true haunts of inspiration — the woods and glens of his
native country, and the music of her old songs. The closing verses of *'Wearie's
Well** are inexpressibly touching —

Farewell, and for ever,
My first love and last;

May thy joys be to come—
Mine live in the past

In sorrow and sadness
This honr fa's on me;

Bat light, as thy love, may
It fleet over thee.

Then there is that plaintive touch of humble life in " Oh, wae be to the Orders,'*
which Motherwell placed first among his songs: —

I never thmk o' dancin*, and I downa try to sing,

But a' the day I speir what news kind neibonr bodies bring;

I sometimes knit a stocking, if knittin' it may be.

Syne for every loop that I cast on, I am snre to let doun three.

In a dedication to his friend, W. Kennedy, Motherwell writes of his Norse
legends as intended only to be a faint shadow of Norse poetry: — "All that is
historical about them is contained in the proper names. The first, 'Sigurd's
Battle Flag,' does not follow the story as given in the Northern Sagas, but only
adopts the incident of the Magic Standard, which carries victory to the party by
whom it is displayed, but certain death to its bearer. .'Jarl Egill Skallagrim's
Wooing Song' is entirely a creation, and nothing of it is purely historical, save
the preserving of the name of that warrior and Skald. From the memorials,
however, he has left us of himself, I think he could not well have wooed in a
different fashion. As for *Thorstein Raudi,' or the Red, that is a name which
occurs in Northern history; but, as may well be supposed, he never said so much
in all his life about his sword or himself, as I have taken the fancy of putting
into his mouth."

20

The Marquis of Bute's lecture on the "Burning of the Bams of Ayr" places
the history of this event in the clearest possible light before the reader, divested
alike of the fierce prejudices manifested against Scotland by early English
chroniclers, and of the equally misleading credulity swarming over the pages
of native rhymers of the " Blind Harry " order. That a representative member
of the Royal Stuart family so personally popular as the present Marquis of Bute,
connected moreover with Ayrshire by descent no less than possessions, should
address the people of the county on an event so interesting as the "Burning
of the Bams " by Wallace and his ancestor, Bruce, will be generally accepted
as an occurrence not more interesting than it was appropriate. The list of
royal and noble authors has in receots days got so much enlarged that Walpole's
once famous " Catalogue " of the order is now useful for little beyond purposes
purely antiquarian. Since his day there falls to be added, in English literature
alone, names no less important than Her Majesty, the Prince Consort, and —
to mention only a few others — living representatives of the houses of Argyll,
Keppel, Lennox, Mandeville, Wellesley, and Stuart. To Scotch audiences the
young Marquis of Bute has addressed at least two lectures — one to his neighbours
at Rothesay in the winter of 1875 on the "Daily Life of King Robert 1. at
Cardross," and a second at Ayr in the February of 1878, concerning that event
In the War of Independence known as " The Burning of the Barns of Ayr."
The brochure differs a little from the lecture as delivered. It contains some
matter which the Marquis had not before him at the time, and a good deal
also which he had written but omitted, in order, as he modestly explains, not
to be even more burdensome to a patient audience than the extreme dryness
and intricacy of the inquiry demanded. Second, the original lecture has been
altogether pulled to pieces, and arranged anew under the six following heads : —

THE BARNS OF AYR. 307

(i) The Capitulation of Irvine, July, 1397, with a sketch of the events leading to it,
being the epoch to which Lord Hailes believed that the burning waa to be assigned ;
(a) a sketch of the English invasion of 1293, which the Marquis believes to be the
time when any event possible to be identified with the " Burning of the Barns "
really took place; {3) a discussion as to who the burners were; (4) a notice of King
Edward's residence at Ayr and retirement from Scotland after the burning; (5) the
account of the burning in Blind Harry; (6) the executions connected by Blind Hany
with the burning. Disappointed with his campaign in Flanders, chafing under the
limitations imposed upon him by his Parliament at Westminster, and incensed
beyond endurance by the renewed hostile attitude of the Scottish patriots,
King Edward would appear to have crossed into Scotland by way of Berwick,
during the summer of iigS, in a mood boding but slight mercy to those concerned
in resisting his usurped authority. His army was great beyond all precedent
— ^magnificent, it has been said, and overwhelming. Burton, following contem-
porary authorities, writes of 7,000 mounted men-at-arms as being in the muster,
3,000 of theiQ in coats of mail; and this host, overwhelming as it was in numbers,
was joined by 500 other horsemen from Gascony. After this, footmen might
be reckoned of little moment, but the number has been put down at 80,000,
among them being many auxiliaries from Wales and Ireland. The disastrous
defeat at Falkirk followed on the zind. Wallace contrived to convey a small
body of his troops off the iicld, and made an attempt to hold Stirling. Finding
this useless, they destroyed what food could not be used, and marched, it has
been said, nobody knows whither, the commander and his followers alike disappear-
ing from the history of the war. In July of the preceding year (1297), Wallace,
according to the noble lecturer, would appear to have entirely dissented from
the conduct of those who swore aliegiance at the capitulation of Irvine. The
patriot and his friends left the army and retreated into the forest of Selkirk,
as a great part of the centre of Scotland south of Forth was then called. On
July 1 7, eight days later than the last documents of Irvine, it was proposed at
Koxburgh "that an attack should be made upon William Wallace, who lay there

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

then, and does still, with a large company, in the forest of Selkirk, like one who
holds himself against your Majesty's peace." Citing Hemingford as an authority,
Lord Hailes steps in at this point, with his explanation of the " burning,"
expressing it as his belief that the stoiy took its rise from the pillaging of the
English quarters, about the time of the treaty. Silent altogether as to the
burning of bams either at Ayr or Irvine, Hemingford's statement may yet be
accepted as evidence of a kind, that the English invaders treated the native
population with hardly a degree less severity than the Canaaniies experienced
at the hands of the remorseless Jew: — "When our people (the English) returned
to Irvine, it was told them that many of the Scotch and Galloway men had
plundered their baggage, after the manner of enemies, and killed more than
fifty men, women, and children. So they followed them, and slew about a
thousand of them, and came back with the prey doubled." Erroneous as the
Marquis thinks it by about a year, a brief paraphrase of Blind Harry's account
of the burning may be given as embodying the popular belief as early at least
as the fifteenth century. On the suggestion, he writes, of Aymer de Valence,
and in spite of the protests of Henry Percy, a Court of Assize was proclaimed
to be held at Ayr on June i8, 1297, under the auspices of a judge named Amwif.
To this Court the leading persons of AjTshire were summoned, with the secret
intention of putting them to death; and it was to meet in four great bams which
at the time stood in Ayr, and which had been built for the King when his lodging
was there — (not till 1298). One of the beams was furnished with abundance
of running nooses; the entrance was strongly guarded by armed men, and none
were allowed to enter but as they were summoned. Sir Reginald Crawford was
called first to do homage. Passing in he was immediately lifted off his feet,
a noose slipped over his head, and hoisted up to the beam, where he died. In
like manner died Sir Brice Blair, Sir Neitl Montgomery, with various Crawfords,
Kennedys, Campbells, Berkeleys, Boyds, and Stuarts. The minstrel reports the
bams as being burnt the same night, Wallace and his party looking on from a
safe point, known ever after as Bum-weill-hilL In explanation of various dis-

RAMBLES IN G ALLOW A V. 309

crepancies in Blind Harry, and between him and Barbour, the Marquis ventures
with considerable caution to submit an hypothesis, that between the burning
of Lanark and the attack on the bishop's palace at Glasgow, Blind Harry found
that Wallace had made an attack on an English judge at an ''Aire," which he
took to be the town of that name (instead of a Justice Aire), especially as he
also knew that Wallace was famous, among other things, for having burnt the
English quarters in that town. So he mixes up three things — the executions
in the bams, the attack on the judge, and the burning — working the whole into
a fancy narrative, with probably a good spice of plagiarism out of Barbour.
The lecturer describes himself as conscious that, applied to the myth which
finds its wildest development in the "Wallace," his treatment may be styled
a destructive criticism. He would, however, rather claim for the lecture a con-
structive tendency. His aim has been to place, or rather perhaps suggest, a way
of placing upon a sound historical basis an event in national and local history,
the obscurity of which has made it the victim alternately of credulity and
scepticisim. The authorities quoted throughout are, as far as possible, contem-
porary. Some of them, it is mentioned, have not yet been published, and of
those that have been, many are translated by the Marquis for the first time.
A map, illustrative of the marching and countermarching of King Edward in
Scotland, accompanies an inquiry full of interest in itself, and not without
importance as bearing on the development of popular beliefs.

RAMBLES IN GALLOWAY.

Valuable for what is suggested more than for what is completed, Mr. Harper's
"Rambles in Galloway" were thought seriously defective as a guide to the
pedestrian. Even better writing and fuller historical knowledge would not
have atoned for the want of any table of distances or any map of the district

3IQ

THE WEST COUNTRY m HISTORY.

traversed. It is no doubt open for travellers to ramble at their own will, gossiping
when they please and as they please about the traditional associations or
physical aspects of the hills and dales traversed; but it is difierent when, as in
the present case, the writer is desirous of making his district more widely known,
and of impressing on travellers the important, but by no means exaggerated
Iruth that he might fare worse by going further from home in search of scenes
of soft lowland beauty, or the stern and wild in mountain landscape. In such
circumstances the Rambler takes the place of a Guide where a map is essential.
The volume itself presents a most attractive appearance, so far as printing and
illustrations are concerned. The matter, if not so fresh or full occasionally as one
would like, is on the wliole presented in a quiet, business like fashion — altogether
free from the vice of exaggeration so apt to beset local chroniclers. Its merits,
indeed, in this respect tend rather to cross the reader's temper by presenting
what is attractive and useful, but compelling him at the same time to search
elsewhere for distances and routes. The "Rambles" are arranged under thirty-
three distinct chapters, treating of so many different journeys or localities, but
little help is furnished to the reader whether the country traversed from point to
point was six miles or sixty. Castle-Douglas to Auchencaim, eight miles, forms
one chapter or route; Castle- Douglas over Caimsmore to Newton-Stewart, about
thirty miles, forms another. A brief index, of proper names at least, would also
have been useful. The want of minuteness in the itinerary is the more to be
regretted, as Mr. Harper's own pages show that Galloway, or the two south-
western counties of Kirkcudbright and Wigtown, even since opened up by
railways, still possesses special attractions for the pedestrian, whether his taste
runs in the way of historical or traditionary lore. It is not easy in dealing with
works of this kind to cease wondering at the prolific genius and rare powers of
Scott Not a county or bit of coast-line in Scotland but has been touched by
the Enchanter's rod. From Kirkwall to Caerlaverock, from Colonsay to the Bass,
not an old castle, church, or mansion but has had a new interest added to it
by his writings. Galloway presents no exception to this rule, nor could it well

RAMBLES IN GALLOWAY. 311

occur with a correspondent of the novelist in the district so exact and enthusiastic
as Train. Endless scenes and incidents in the romances are associated with
Galloway. That "Young Lochinvar, who came out of the West," belonged to
the gay Gordons of Kenmure line. Helen Walker, who practised in real life
the virtues with which fiction has invested the imaginary character of Jeanie Deans,
lies buried in Irongray churchyard, with a memorial-stone set up by the novelist
to mark her humble grave. On a tragical incident in the history of the Stair
family Scott founded " The Bride of Lammermoor." Robert Paterson, prototype
of " Old Mortality," was a Galloway wanderer, and set up his first stone at Caldons,
Wigtownshire. The creeks of Warroch often sheltered Dirk Hatteraick; and
at Ravenshall the Smugglers' Cave is still pointed out Still earlier associations
of importance are rife in the district At Tongland lived the Italian fi-iar whose
ridiculous attempt at flying drew down the satire of Dunbar; and there, too,
within the old castle of Comstone, Montgomery is supposed to have written his
famous "Cherrie and Slae." Grounds now included within the Maitland
property are thought to be referred to in the verse —

How every blossom, branch, and bark,
To pen the pleasures of that park,

Against the son did shyne.
I pass to poets to compile
In high, heroic, stately stile^

Whase muse surmatches myne.
But as I looked myne alane

I saw a river rin
Out owre a steepy rock of stane,

Syne lighted in a lin,
With tumbling and rumbling

Among the rocks around,
Devalling and falling

Into a pit profound.

To the Kenmure family mentioned above an interesting reference is made in
the form of a letter to John Gordon, seventh Viscoimt, son of William, attainted,
written by the Young Pretender during his short stay at Holyrood, Oct, 1745: —

3 1 2 THE WEST CO UNTR Y IN HISTOR Y.

"The continued loyalty of your femily, with your father's unhappy suffering
in 1715, and the repeated assurances I have received from all hands of zeal and
attachment to my family, leaves me no room to doubt you will take the first
opportunity to appear in the cause of your King and country. Being determined
to make no longer stay in these parts than to give time to some friends who
are now on their way from the Highlands to join me, I juilge it proper you may
repair to the array with what men you can get together, without delay, when
you may be assured of meeting with particular marks of my favour anil friendship."
It was the old story; —

At length the news ran through the Lmd—

The Prince had come again;
Thflt night the Fiery Cross was speJ

O'ct mountain and through gleo;
And our old tiaron rose in might.

Like a liuii in his den.
And rode awny across the hills

To Charlie and his men.

In 1824 the Kcnnmre dignities were restored in the person of Viscount
William's grandson, to the great joy of the family bard, who exult ingly
wrote —

The Gonlon hath his father's name, renowned in love and war;

Hail him, Kenmutc's noble Viscount, and Lord of Lochiavar.

The title became extinct in 1847 o" the death of Adam, eighth Viscount.
Church matters, especially such as relate to the Covenanting period, but
suggested, naturally enough, by graves in lone moorland places, or, as at Wig-
town, indicating a great judicial crime, appear frequently in Mr. Harper's volume.
For the earliest settlement of all, St. Ninian's at Whithorn, he cautiously follows
the excellent memoir prepared by Bishop Forbes. Dedicated to St Martin of
Tours, from whom craftsmen were obtained to shape its walls after the Roman
fashion, the White House on the promontory became the burying-place of St.
Ninian himself, and was for ages famous as a sanctuary not only in North
Britain, but throughout the whole Anglo-Saxon Kingdom, and among the races of

RAMBLES IN GALLO WA K 3^3

Ireland. Even from Gaul, Alcuin, the counsellor of Charlemagne, sent epistles
to the brethren at Whithorn, while in later times the ancient shrine continued
renowned as a pilgrimage whither princes, churchmen, and warriors came from
distant parts by sea and land to pay their devotions. In days nearer our
own, and for another form of piety, a second shrine was found at Anwoth, in
the church of the "Godly Rutherford." "Blessed birds" he described the
sparrows and swallows to be who built their nests there. On removing to St
Andrews, and when known to be on his death-bed, he was summoned with
impotent malice to appear before the Privy Council "Tell them," he said,
" I have got a summons already before a superior judge and judicatory, and it
behoves me to answer that summons first Ere your day arrives I will be
where few kings and great folks come." When the messengers returned to the
Council and intimated that the author of "Lex Rex" was dying. Parliament,
with a few dissenting voices, voted that he should not be allowed to die in the
College. "Yes," remarked Lord Burleigh, "you have voted the honest man
out of his College, but you cannot vote him out of heaven." Crocketford,
near Dalbeattie, has an interest of a different kind — an interest centering not
in piety but in delusion — possibly fraud. Here Luckie Buchan and her
crazed followers set up their camp on being removed from Closebum parish,
and here the cunning old prophetess died (1791), and so late as 1846 was buried
in the same grave with the last of her followers. In expectation of her direct
translation to heaven, the body had for many years been secretly kept above
ground among her own people. She described herself, as most readers know, to
be the Woman clothed with the Sun mentioned in the Revelation, and
blasphemously pretended to have brought forth, in the person of the Rev.
Hugh White, the manchild who was to rule all nations with a rod of uron. " I
never heard (wrote Scott in * St Ronan's Well'), of alewife that turned preacher
except Luckie Buchan in the West" According to Mr. Harper, their fame
as wheelwrights and spinners extended all over the South of Scotland. The
Buchanite women introduced into Galloway the two-handed spinning-wheel,

314

THE WEST CO UNTR Y IN HISTOR Y.

and found employment in preparing linen yarn for families in the neighbourhood-
They possessed a community of goods, and appeared to live comfortably and
peaceably together, each in turn, as they paid the debt of nature, being intened
within a small plot of ground behind their dwelling-house in the village of
Crocketford. On visiting the spot, fourteen graves were pointed out to our
author by an old woman now occupying the premises, still owned, he was given
to understand, by a descendant of this strange sect of fiuchanites. Among the
old ecclesiastical foundations within the Stewartry, Mr. Harper gives short but
appreciative notices of Dundrennan, the last resting-place in Scotland of Queen
Mary after her flight from Langside; of Sweetheart, or New Abbey, the burial-
place of the munificent Devorgilla, daughter of Alan, Lord of Galloway, and
mother of John Balliol, for a short time King of Scotland; and of Lincluden,
now more emphatically than even in Burns' time a "roofless tower, where the
wa'flower scents the dewy air." Here the rambler may recall scenes associated
with the most stirring periods of Scottish historyj and here, too, he is brought
in presence of the last resting-place of Lady Margaret, eldest daughter of
Robert III., Countess of Douglass and Lady of Galloway and Annandale. She
died at Threave Castle about 1440, and was interred in a magnificent tomb built
into the north wall of the choir, near the altar, when that part of Lincluden
Abbey was erected by Archibald the Grim. The fabric, with lands around, has
for generations formed part of the patrimonial inheritance of the old Cathohc
house of Terregles, but munificent supporters, as they have always been, of the
new foundation of St. Andrews, at Dumfries, only little was laid out, and that
at distant intervals, to keep up a ruin so intimately associated with the ancient
faith as the Abbey of Lincluden. Drawings, however, are now (1876) being made
with the view of something being done to prevent the fine choir at least from
crumbling to dust Mr. Harper, our readers may be informed, does not enlarge
unduly upon, far less confine himself in rambling to what is old or ecclesiastical.
Threave and Bombie, Maxwells and MacLellans, Kircudbright Castle and Town,
Black Morrow Wood and Bucban forest — from Nitli to Dee, from Dee to

THE BERRIES PEER A GE. 315

Portpatrick — all places, families, and customs, are made to render up their quota
of entertaining matter. About things new and industrial he has also much
pleasant gossip. At Arbigland, the birth-place of Paul Jones, and at St. Mary's
Isle, which he plundered, the rover of the Solway naturally turns up in the
character of an American privateer. In his own neighbourhood of Dalbeattie,
again, the author has many fresh and informing notes to set down about the
granite works carried on there, and the important part such industry has played
in the erection of docks at Liverpool and embankments on the Thames. We
could have wished even more about that wandering minstrel, William or " Wuir
Nicholson. M'Diarmid's edition of his pieces is not very widely known nowa-
days; and when insipid watery versifiers are so rife it is not desirable, however odd
or thriftless he may have been, to let writers like the author of '* The Brownie of
Blednoch" slip into forgetfulness.

THE MERRIES PEERAGE.

One of the three noblemen recently (April, 1884) called to the Upper House as
a Peer of the United Kingdom is Marmaduke Constable-Maxwell, known in the
Peerage of Scotland as Baron Herries of Terregles. The new Peer, who was
bom in 1837, is eldest son of that William Constable-Maxwell of Everingham,
Yorkshire, declared by the House of Lords, in 1858, entitled to the Barony
of Herries of Terregles (Kirkcudbrightshire) as lineal heir of the body of Agnes
Lady Herries, daughter and co-heir of William Lord Herries, son of Andrew,
who sat as a Lord of Parliament in Scotland, 1505-6, and was slain at Flodden
9th September, 15 13. Agnes, Lady Herries, became the wife of Sir John
Maxwell, afterwards called of Terregles, second son of Robert, fifth Lord
Maxwell Judged to have claimed the dignity of a Peeress in her own right,

3i6

THE WEST COUNTR Y IN HISTOR Y.

by this marriage the Herries barony passed into that powerful branch of the
Maxwell family so prominently tnixed up in their day with all the events which
have become historically associated with Nithsdale, Annandale, and the southern
counties generally. The formidable fortresses of Caerlaverock and Threave
indicate but partly the baronial splendour of the Maxwells. In quite recent
tiraes at least two other interesting properties have fallen into the Herries branch
of the Maxwelt family. Through the marriage of William Maxwell, only son
of the attainted or fifth Earl of Nithsdale, with Catherine, daughter of Charles,
fourth Earl of Traquair, their descendant, Henry Con stable- Maxwell of Scarthing-
well Park, Yorkshire, uncle of the new Peer, succeeded to the Traquair property
in 1875 on the death of the venerable Lady Louisa Stuart, whose name he
assumed. By his marriage with Mary Monica, only daughter of Hope-Scott, Q.C.,
Joseph Constable-Maxwell, younger brother of the present Lord Herries, succeeded
to the romantic Tweedside property of Abbotsford, and adopted, like his father-
in-law, the name of Scolt. The Galloway property of Terregles has been kept
in the family by the succession ol Alfred Constable- Maxwell, second surviving
son of Peter, another brother of the late Peer, and nephew of Marmaduke
Constable-Maxwell, so long distinguished for the refined hospitality with which he
kept up the fame of a beautiful property, naturally looked upon in some respects .
as the cradle of the race from which he sprung. Constable-Maxwell died July,
1872, and is fittingly commemorated by an exquisite memorial chapel withio 1
the walls of that Roman Catholic Church in Dumfries wliich during life he had 1
supported with princely munificence. The recently erected convent crowning 1
the eminence known as Corbelly Hill, on the opposite side of the Nith, and
the establishment of the Marian Brothers in a fabric long occupied as the Royal
Infirmary, may serve to indicate the zeal with which the Herries Maxwells I
supported the ancient faith, from which they never swerved.

The earliest Maxwell of Caerlaverock mentioned in history is Sir John,
Great Chamberlain of Scotland, 1231, whose son, Aylmer or Emereus, also
Great Chamberlain, acquired the barony and castle of Meams by his marriage

THE HERRIES PEERAGE. 317

with Mary, only daughter and heiress of Roland, feudal possessor of the barony.
A younger son of this marriage acquired from his father the barony of Nether-
Pollock, and founded the family now represented by the young Stirling-Maxwells.
The eldest, Sir Herbert de Maxwell, was grandfather of that Sir Eustace who
defended Caerlaverock against Edward I., as described in the curious con-
temporary Norman-French poem, edited during the present century by Sir
Harris Nicolas. From this point the Caerlaverock Maxwells divide themselves
into two distinct and well-defined branches — the Maxwells, Lords Herries of
Terregles, and the Maxwells, Earls of Nithsdale. By the line last mentioned
tlie Herries honours were carried into the Yorkshire family of Constable, Lady
Winifred Maxwell, daughter of the attainted Lord Nithsdale, marrying in 1758
Haggerston Constable of Everingham. Their grandson, Marmaduke-William
Constable, was father of that William who established his right to the Herries
honours, which are now about to receive an augmentation in the person of his
son Marmaduke, the present Peer. The latter, as mentioned above, was bom
in 1837, and educated at Stonyhurst Roman Catholic College. In 1875 he
married the Hon. Angela Mary Charlotte Fitzalan Howard, second daughter
of Lord Howard of Glossip, and has issue two daughters, Gwendoline and
Angela Mary, both bom in 1877.

It is uncertain when the Herries barony was created. Herbert of the
name is known to have sat as a Lord of Parliament in 1489. But a still earlier
reference to the family, if not to the dignity, occurs in the person of a certain
Wflliam de Heriz, who witnesses various charters in the reign of William the
Lion. The first described as of Terregles (or Church lands of Linduden) is
Sir John " Hence," who obtained a charter of the lands from David 11. on the
resignation of the same by Thomas, Earl of Mar, in 1359. Nine years later
this same Sir John would appear to have received a grant of the lands of
Kirkgunzeon, within the Stewartry, which had previously belonged to the
Abbey of Holmculteram, in Cumberland. The most prominent of his descend-
ants was John Maxwell (Lord Herries), the friend and adviser of Queen Mary,

1

3i8

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

who accompEtnied her in the flight from Laogside, entertained her, it is thought,
at least one night in his mansion of Terregles, and, much againt his advice, saw
her sail aaoss the Solway from Dundrennan for the purpose of submitting her
case to her sister Sovereign, Elizabeth of England, The tenure of the bajony
is not free from doubt during its occupancy by Sir John Maxwell. In right of
his marriage with Agnes Lady Hemes, he became possessed of one-third of
the baronies of Terregles and Kirkgunzeon, and subsequently acquired the
two-thirds which had belonged to her sisters. On 8th May, 1566, King Heniy
and Queen Mary granted a charter to Sir John Maxwell of Terregles, and Agnes
Herries, his wife, and their heirs-male, whom failing, to the heirs-male of the
said Sir John Maxwell. This charter was ratified in Parliament on 19th April,
1567, when, as a favour, the holding of the lands was changed from ward and
relief to blench. Previous to this, and at least as early as izth March, 1566-7,
he had taken the title of Lord Herries, Sir James Balfour {Lord Lyon},
writing, however, long after the time, states that he was created Lord Herries
at the baptism of Prince James, on 17th December, 1566. It was inferred from
this statement, and other circumstances, that a new peerage was created in the
person of Sir John Maxwell, and limited to heirs-male. This, however, after a
lengthened investigation, the House of Lords found not to have been the case
(23rd June, 1858). They thought the original peerage created in the person of
Sir Herbert Herries in 1489 was to heirs general, and that Agnes Lady Herries,
the eldest daughter of William Lord Herries, was a peeress in her own right.
She was found to have been often called by herself and others Agnes Lady
Herries. There is no instance of her being called Lady Terregles from her
husband's title, although her sisters are found to have been called Lady Garlies
and Lady Skirling.

William Maxwell, fifth Earl of Nithsdale and Lord Herries, married the
Lady Winifred Herbert, youngest daughter of William, first Marquis of Powis.
The Earl having taking part for the Stuarts in the rising of 1715 was, 9th
February, ijiti, found guilty of high treason, and bad sentence of death pro-

THE BERRIES PEERAGE. 319

nounced against him. His Lordship, however, through the heroic aid of his
devoted and incomparable Countess, escaped from the Tower of London after
his conviction, and died at Rome, 20th March, 1744, leaving issue an only son
William, who married, as mentioned before, Catherine Stuart of the house of
Traquair, with issue Winifred Maxwell, who married, also as mentioned before,
William-Haggerston Constable of Everingham, Yorkshire, whose grandson
William established his right to the Herries honours. He petitioned in the
first instance for a reversal of the attainder and for the title of Lord Herries, as
the lineal descendant and heir of Herbert, first Lord Herries. An Act of Parlia-
ment being passed in 1848 reversing the attainder as regards the descendants of
William, Earl of Nithsdale, forfeited in 17 16, he again claimed the title of
Lord Herries, which was decided in his favour, June 23, 1858, by the House of
Lords, William Maxwell of Comichan, the heu--male, having opposed. William
Constable may therefore, but for the attainder, be considered the thirteenth
Lord Herries. He married Marcia, daughter of Hon. Sir Edward M. Vavasour,
Bart., of Hazlewood, Yorkshire, and had issue a large family of sons and
daughters, the eldest being the present Lord Harris, Marmaduke Constable
Maxwell, fourteenth Baron. On at least three different occasions during the
present century the ancient but still stately ruin of Caerlaverock has been the
scene of festivities on a great scale, which revived for a time the memory of its
former greatness. On the first occasion, in 1827, the tenants of Caerlaverock
and other friends dined in the ancient hall, when Wm. C. Maxwell came of
age; on the second occasion, in 1858, they met in the same place to hail
him as Lord Herries; and in 1859 his Lordship acknowledged the compliment
by treating his tenantry to a grand banquet and ball within the walls of the
Castle. The local historian (W. M*Dowall) seems to have had pleasure in
mentioning that the best of feeling existed in ancient times between the Maxwells
and their retainers, and continues down till the present day.

TBE WEST COUNTRY IS HISTORY.

A GALLOWAY CHARACTER.

- KzLTommx, that fledilia Yak," «ntlen of b^ Hzjne and dnvn by Faed, is
Glcdf to cone a^in to the front in conne ct ioo wilfa the ic^ofalicaticm of
Mtftfgg-**'- amonf "GaOovidiiD Eacydapse^a.' Bofs at Phnton, in the
patUi d Borpw— dboot 1800— "The Vtid^ b^ btkn KrimnhiB Fair was tt«
ai|^ in wludi I, 'fosmeial Johnnie,' fint opened my mooib in this wkked
wofld." The dcaign of his work is lo set before the reader the ot^inal,
antiiittaled, and natural airiosities of the South of Scotland, with sketches of
eccentric character* and carioitf places, and explanations of singuUr words and
phrases, interspencd with poems, talcs, and stories, iKustrative of the ways of the
peasaotfr. How and when the notion of stub a production arose the author
daorfbctbimselfatatalOMtoiajr:— "I am inclined to imagine that it is mostly
the work of imtinct, that the conception of it was cieaied in mj skull when that
thick dcuU itself was created, and afterwards expanded as it expanded; for, from
my youngest days, I have been a wanderer amid the wilds of tutoie, and keenly
Ibnd of every curious thing belonging to my native country, whDc Providence
has surely been very kind to me in this respect, for casting my lot in a nation
among a rare and nngular class of mankind." These few words of personal
explanation furnish the key-note to balance in criiical scales the humorous yet
grave absurdities, the grotesque confusion exhibited in etymology and folk-lore,
and the calm contented self-appreciation of the writer. If some books axe
valuaUe as warnings on account of their very badness, others again are doubly
welcome when they unconsciously reflect all the droll twists and (juecr fancies
characterising the imagination of an enthusiastic but ill-tiained son of genius.
No Advocate's Library was flung open to him; no Auchinleck MS. aided his
lesearchca; the whole is the work of habit and memory, of learning seized by
snatches, and a fevc hinU received from others. Scampering along in this way, as

A GALLOWAY CHARACTER. 321

he calls it, ''ram-stam," the author*s expectation is in a fair way of fulfilment, in
so far at least as the production of a book is concerned never likely to create
much noise, yet not forgot in a hurry, and to be found in the same ''bole"
with Bums, Allan Cunningham, Nicholson, Peden's Prophecies, and Rutherford's
Letters. Over Nicholson, indeed, "a wandering wicht of Homer's craft," and
author of " The Brownie of Blednoch," not noticed in the work, Mactaggart waxes
quite eloquent. There is about him, he says, a melancholy and an independence
that will ever cause him to be admired by true Caledonians. ''And should all
mankind desert him I hope he will never find me far away; whatever I can do
for the good of that man so shall it be.''

In arrangement, the "Encyclopaedia" partakes of an alphabetical character,
but, like the author's philology, it is only alphabetical after a kind. Under
" Borgue," for example, we do not get Deacon Macmin, the Borgue philosopher.
The word '* Deacon" must be looked up for that Nicholson is not under Nicholson,
but under " Wull," as is also the joyous Grade of the Tanaree at Millbum,
Kirkcudbright; and Ross Island is neither under "Ross" nor ♦* Little," but
" Wee," a matter more to be wondered at, as the author not only notices
"Janet Richardson," but appends a sad ballad on the wreck of Captain
Ormonby :—

So on did steer young Ormonby before the furious wind,
The tide being out along the shore, no harbour could he find;
The Little Ross no shelter was, the anchors would not hold,
So our noble tar upon the bar among the foam was rolled.

Deacon Macmin, as drawn by Mactaggart, is well worth taking a little trouble

to find out When the minister of Borgue died, some friends designed to

erect a monument in memory of his reverence, but ere proceeding far they

thought there would be no harm in taking the Deacon's opinion about the

business. "I ken na (said he) what ye wad say about him but that he's

there** indicating that his body lay there, and that no more in justice required

21

312 THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

to be said "So (remarks our author, gravely) the idea of a monument
blasted by the Deacon's sarcasm." In some other respects the Deacon
to have been a kindred spirit with the "Miller of Minnieive"—

I'm but Eiie humble, dusty miller,
No unco fond of grubbing siller.
Nor steering wi' a steady tiller

Through life's queer sea;
But (ak my dram wi' a cure killer,

My Joke like lh«.

ent was I

i

Under the heading "Naturalls," a tender subject for the author to meddle
with, will be found graphic descriptions of several of the unfortunate class well
known in Galloway — among the rest Davie Eddie, Wull Gourly, who played
tunes on his nose; Jamie Neilson, famous for "the plan " or "not the plan;" and
Girzey Whay, of Kirkcudbright, with her

Pocket napkin on a slifT,

To make the bu^ess bodies Uugh.

Laird Cowtart, the "obstinate man," who refused to avail himself of light from
Harris' candles on account of a slight quarrel, will also repay perusal. In
some respects our author has anticipated certain recent epics of later days.
Carrol's "Hunting of the Snark; an Agony in Eight Fits," is yet quite fresh.
Maclaggart quotes from a poem of his own, fortunately never published, "The
Rustic Madman, in Six Tornadoes." A Carlylean flavour is also thrown over
the account of Paul Jones — "A Gallovidian, I am rather sorry to say; but
he was a clever devil, and had strong talents of the infernal stamp." At othet
times our poet appears to have taken his pleasures sadly, if one may judge from
the style of his address, "Mac is Major," written on reaching twenty-one,
and after he had been a little time at Edinburgh University —

A GALLOWAY CHARACTER. 323

Now Mac upon the Solway shore,
Whax seamaws skirl and pellocks snore,

And whilks and mussels cheep;
Whar puffins on the billows ride,
And dive adoon the foaming tide

For siller fry sae deep.
Puir duel, his ane-and-twentieth year

He entereth upon;
My merry days are past, I fear,
And sad anes coming on.

Nae matter, I'll batter

As weel's I can through life;
Aye dash on, and brash on,
Throughout this worldly strife.

To refer to the " Encyclopaedia " in terms of more exact criticism might appear
ungracious and unnecessary — ungracious, because there is no end of good things
within the book, and unnecessary, because the author has said that the work
is presented just as he wished it As for errors, "let them rest on my own
broad back. Works of this kind are always fuller of errors than any others;
also, should any be displeased because I have not taken notice of some curiosity
which was a favourite of theirs, be it told that I was either not of their way
of thinking or that I knew nothing about it" In the face of such a direct
disclaimer it would be of little use trying to show that ** Hogmanay" could
hardly be derived from " hug-me-now," or that "Effie," not "Eppie," is the
endearing contraction of Euphemia. So at least Scott thought, Eppie being,
probably, rather allied to Eispeth. One story might have been given, seeing
it lay at our author's own door. His treatment of the " Laird of CouVs Ghost,"
and of ghosts generally, makes it matter for regret that Mactaggart did not try
his hand on "A true Relation of an Apparition, Expressions and Actings of
a Spirit which infested the house of Andrew Mackie, in Ringcroft of Stocking,
in the Parish of Rerrick, in the Stewartry of Kirkcudbright, in Scotland, 1695,
by Mr. Alexander Telfair, minister of that parish, and attested by many other
persons who were also eye and ear witnesses. Ephesians vi. 11 — *Put on the
whole armour,"' &c

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

DRUMLANRIG AND THE DOUGLASES.

By slow degrees, and at uncertain intervals, the antiquaries of the South of
Scotland are making up for their remissness in illustrating various sections of
local history, so thoroughly overtaken by the superior zeal of their brethren in
the North. It cannot of course o(ten happen that a single comer of Scotland
so prolific as Aberdeenshire or Moray in great names can send out within one
generation scholars of such rare culture as Robertson and Iiincs, Stuart and
Burton; but, putting for a moment great names aside, the common rank and
file of the antiquarian force have shown infinitely superior industry and enthusiasm
in dealing with such a tract of country as lies between the Grampians and the
Murray Frith. Here was the land of Barbour, who sung so well of the hero-king,
even although he was a Southerner; of gossiping old Spalding, who lights up
the sombre page of his "Troubles" with dashes of genuine humour, entitling
him lo the warm commendation of the most recent historian of that agitated
period. The pious Bishop Elphinstone, the Parson of Rothiemay, the "gay
Gordons," the valiant Keiths, not to speak of municipal records, and the very
"Breviary" of the old Church, have all found painstaking and loving commentators.
The " Spalding Club " was mainly instituted to illustrate the history and antiquities
of the north-east counties, and the useful series of volumes issued under its
auspices make it plain that it may serve as a model for some kindred association
in the neglected South. There matters are improving, but still far behind.
With the exception of M'Diarmid's "Picture of Dumfries," avowedly light and
sketchy, though full al the same time of his inimitable graces of style, and a few
dry and not very accurate " Statistical Accounts," there was hardly any literature
in existence relating to this part of Scotland, till M'Dowal! set himself with
cultivated ardour to put into continuous historic shape the existing traditions
clustering round "The Queen of the South." The part taken by the burgh ia

DRUMLANRIG AND THE DOUGLASES. s^S

events so recent as Mar's Rebellion, or the entry of the young Chevalier on the
retreat from Derby, could seldom be encountered except in the imperfect pages
of Peter Rae, or in the loose talk of some old burgess of the Johnny Gas type,
who might be spoken of as having at a very uncertain period the felicity of
encountering some plundering Celt "out" in the perilous '45. The notes
to Mayne's "Siller Gun" were thought to present as many genealogical
and traditionary facts as people in those neglected times needed to
care about Of charter lore, municipal records, or ecclesiastical history,
there was absolutely none. Public documents of that kind were neither
read nor cared for. Even yet in this respect the southern antiquaries
are but on the threshold of theu: work. Lincluden and Dundrennan, neither
of them possibly rivalling in magnificence the stately fane at Elgin, so roughly
handled by the " Wolf of Badenoch," or the surpassing beauly of the lonely
Kirkwall, saved by its isolation from the despoiler — still even Lincluden, Sweet-
heart, and Dundrennan have all a story to tell. Why are they permitted to
remain dumb? Why is no cunning hand engraving in detail the crumbling
fragments ere they pass from sight. Is it never to be known how the monks
of the South lived when the Church was independent without being rebellious,
zealous without being intolerant, the guide and home of the scholar, the patron
and instructor of the craftsman. Of "sweet Lincluden's holy cells," which
struck even the robust Bums with plaintive tenderness, little more is on record
than that there was interred Margaret, Countess of Douglas, daughter of Robert
III.; and there, also, in later and evil days, the barons assembled to decree the code
known as "Grim Lord Archibald's battle laws." Dundrennan, again, is chiefly
known in connection with the hurried flight of Queen Mary after the disastrous
overthrow at Langside, and to a few in modem times, who have not forgotten
how often the bench of tliis country has been adomed by the scholarly taste
and courtly bearing of its occupants, as giving an honoured title to the owner
of the Abbey mins, the genial and gifted Thomas Maitland. Holywood also,
with its Dmidical cromlechs, should be made to reveal something, unless, indeed,

I

3^6

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

as some students deem probable enough, the reputed Abbot of Sacrabosco is
a sort of doubtful creation. Then for family records. With the exception of
the Maxwells and Scotts, finished with such fine taste by Mr. Wm. Fraser,
the charter-rooms of the old houses in the South are almost virgin ground
for the student. Drumlanrig itself must contain priceless treasures in the
way of national, territorial, and family lore. Even a good catalogue or
calendar would be an acquisition to the working antiquary. A little gleaning—
hardly one sheaf out of the harvest, and this relating to a single historic season,
but certainly of exceptional interest — makes up a most interesting portion of the
" Memoirs of Viscount Dundee," by the late Mark Napier, Sheriff" of the County.
Raehills, again, must be full of memories of Johnstons, as Jardine Hall is of
Jardines, and Hoddam of the Sharpes— one member of the last, the accomplished
but odd " C. K. S.," being in himself alone worthy of the most delicate treatment.
Bonshaw and Wyseby, Robgill and Stapleton, might all be made to render up
interesting details of many a long line of Irvings and Bells, Edgars and Flemings.
The distinction indicated above between North and South, so far as antiquarian
study is concerned, cannot be explained by any deficiency of interest in the annals
of the latter. Mr. M'Dowall has already shown that these are full of unfailing
interest, while the natural peculiarities of the district — its crops and minerals,
its breezy uplands and rich vales, its luxuriant woods and fairy gardens, its wind-
ing streams and trouting pools, its linns and haughs and fertile holms, the brawling
Annan, storied Liddle, and, greater still, the sweeping Nith, "whose distant
roaring swells and fa's" — the very sough of the Caul— all go to furnish material
to the student of physical science, as rich as the floating traditions are to the
novelist or the poet. Nor are the sons of the soil naturally unfitted for dealing
with such attractive specialities. Were the honours of the eightieth birth-day not
so recent (1875), Mr, Carlyle might be referred to as able to speak for Annandale.
Telford, "Eskdale Tarn," knew a century since all the traditions then current
about Langholm and Canonbie. So long as Mr. Carruihers reigned in Inverness,
would take a bold man to plead that there was anything in the air of Dumfries-

Lirrent I

mess, I

nfries- ■

DRUMLANRIG AND THE DOUGLASES. 327

shire, disqualifying its natives from dealing with the higher elements of literary
criticism or chilling sympathy with the engrossing traditions of their birth-place.
Long since Arthur Johnstone wrote of the district —

Florida tot pingues hie tondent prata javenci,
Gramina quot vemo tempora fiindit humus.
lUius extemas saturant pecuaria gentes,
Et mensas oneiant Anglia soepe tuas.

Pleasantly paraphrased by Rev. Mr. Bennett, Moffat, as —

Full many a sleek and seemly steer enjoys the flowery fields;
Full many an herb, in genial spring, the soil ungrudging 3rields.
To distant lands her fruitful £urms their produce oft convey,
And load the board in England's halls on many a festive day.

But, better than all reasoning on such a point, here is Dr. Ramage, with his
little book confined to three parishes, and these not of supreme importance,
showing how every little comer has its pleasant record, when the eye has been
properly trained to decipher, and the ear to hear, the floating traditions of
the past. Having rather exceeded our limits with remarks designed to stir
up friends in the South to good work in the field of antiquarian study, it is
hardly possible to give extracts showing the extreme value and fidelity manifested
all through Dr. Ramage's very enticing work. But this is the less to be regretted,
as by far the larger portion has already found a wide audience in the pages of the
"Dumfries and Galloway Courier," and where, at the present time (1875), another
series of interesting topographical and genealogical notes are appearing from
week to week. Dr. Ramage has endeavoured, and fairly succeeded, in bringing
together about as much information as can at present be obtained regarding
the three parishes selected for illustration — Durisdeer, Closebum, and Morton.
Tumuli, cairns, stone and bronze celts, coins, remains of ancient camps, place-
names — the most enduring and probably the most important of all the means
of illustrating the occupation of a country — have been pressed into the service,
though, with a modesty almost unnecessary in his case, he explains that such

328 THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

studies demand a more varied knowledge than is commonly possessed by one
person. In connection witli Durisdeer parish — the burial-place of the Queensberry
and Buccleuch family — we naturally hear much of the Douglases, and of
the high state kept up by them at Drunilanrig, and much also about the
fabric itself, with its spacious apartments, and grounds around rivalling in
magnificence the fabled gardens of Alraira. " One Douglas {says Bums)
lives in Home's heroic page; but Douglases were heroes every age," In the
pages of the master of Wallace Hall, the old House appears to have been as
turbulent and discontented as their neighbours of lesser note, and equally
unscrupulous about the method of obtaining such "guids, geir, and plenishing"
as they might require. Minute genealogical delails of the House of Douglas
are given, the change in the succession indicated with exactness, many letters
and charters quoted, and a brief but quite intelligible account of various criminal
trials in which the House was concerned. One of these, Barbara Napier, sister-in-
law of Douglas, of Coshogle, tried and sentenced to be burnt for witchcraft in
1591, illustrates the old story of the charmed ring used to induce love, and
obtained by the poor victim, so it was said, from another notorious witch. Still
more attractive matter is set before us in Closeburn parish, visited frequently by
Burns, and the residence of " Lovely Polly Stewart," whose unfortunate story is
here told with even more minuteness than it merits. Dalgamock, too, close at
hand, has had a new interest added to it by the poet as the tryst or fair frequented
by that faithless wooer, taunted there and then by his discarded Phyllis as
improperly

Gaon up the luig loan to wj black cousin Bess;
Guess ye bow the jaud I could bear her.

Again, in Morton pariah, the reader is pleasantly introduced to another
celebrity, Robert Paterson, the "Old Mortality" of Scott, and tenant for
a time before he commenced his wanderings of the quarry at Gateley-
bridge. To turn out students so distinguished in after hfe as the present
Archbishop of Canterbury is no doubt a high honour to any educational

THE SCOTTS OF BUCCLEUCH. 329

institution, yet on the whole Wallace Hall bulks rather large in Dr. Ramage's
volume. When a new edition is issued, a map of the district would also be an
improvement. It might assist some unlettered tourist, used to gad about French
watering-places, losing his time and vexing the hearts of waiters, to know that
the Pass of Enterkin is amongst the most solitary and beautiful spots in this
southern county. So good a judge as the author of "Rab and his Friends**
found this out, and has written a pleasant paper thereon. We will be glad to
meet Dr. Ramage again in the field of parochial antiquities. Should his leisure
from graver responsibilities permit, he no doubt knows where to find suggestive
localities not far from home. Sanquhar and Wanlock are full of Covenanting
memories, and some noteworthy things in the way of modem industry. Or he
may turn his steps westward, passing under the shadow of Tynron Doon, and
enter Glencaim parish, where he will find at one end those who in modem
times represent "Sir Robert, the lord of the Caim and the Scaur/' and at the
other memories of the old historic house of Craigdarroch—

A line that had struggled for freedom with Brace;
And patriots and heroes must ever produce.

THE SCOTTS OF BUCCLEUCH.

Never quite so common a name, even in Southem Scotland, as natives are
apt to imagine, the Scott clan have yet been distinguished and powerful as far
back as either records or tradition can be safely followed. The novelist Sir
Walter fixes upon a certain Uchtred Fitz Scott, who flourished at the Court of
David I., as the earliest who can be properly identified with the fortunes of
the family; but he was not inclined to dispute the accuracy of the tradition

33°

TBE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

which carried the ancestors of Uchlred to the reign nf Kenneth III, (973-996)
— when they are said to have possessed the barony of Scotstoun, Peeblesshire.
It is to some dale approaching this that the not over-careful Satchells in his
"True History" of the family of Scott would refer the origin of the Buccleuch
name to a narrow escape of the King from the fury of a stag at bay which he
bad pursued through a laige portion of the Royal hunting grounds in Ettrick.
A certain John of Galloway, living in concealment at Buccleuch, or rocky
"cleft," on Rankleburn, overcame the stag, and, after slaying it, carried the
carcass up the sleep side of the "heugh" and laid it at the feet of the King.
The monarch is said thereupon to have made the doubtful remark —

And for the buck thou stoutly brought

To us up that sleep hengh.
Thy designation ever shall

Be John Scott in Bucksclcuch.

1q addition to the lonely farm of Buccleuch, situated among the overhanging
hills, there is lower down Rankle Glen, the site of the old church of Buccleuch,
and also the ruins of the family tower, the latter within three miles of Tushielaw,
ere reaching which the burn has found its way into Ettrick water at Cacrabank.
Even before the close of the fifteenth century the family historian finds himself
on solid ground for indicating the descent of the Buccleuch family. Sir David
Scott of Branxholm took a prominent part in public affairs during the reign
of James III., and sat in the Parliament of 1487 as "Dominus de Buccleuch."
Sir David would appear to have been the first of the family so designated. At
least one tower still remains of that old castle of Branxholm, which he
strengthened and enlarged to accommodate those " nine-and-twenty knights of
fame," with their squires and yeomen, so vividly described in the " Lay of the
Last Minstrel" as hanging their shields within the fortalice, to "carve out
their meal with gloves of steel, and drink the red wine through the helmet
barred." Branxholm, greatly modernised, and now used as a residence for
the Duke's "Forest" Chamberlain, was in those days one of the most important

J

THE SCOTTS OF BUCCLEUCH. 331

fortresses between Cumberland and the Tweed — ^a centre of princely Border
power and festivity in harmony with the lofty bearing of the baron who led
to the field that strong array —

All knights of metal trae,
Kinsmen to the bold Buccleuch.

Walter, a grandson of Sir David, was Warden of the West Marches, and
celebrated in his day for valour and magnanimity during the minority of
James V. To Sir Walter's period belongs the story of the "Lay," the
Baron himself making a narrow escape when attempting to release the King
from the custody of Angus. He afterwards distinguished himself at Pinkie,
^547; but five years later, as recorded in the poem, lost his life in the
streets of Edinburgh when engaged in an encounter with Kerr of Cessford.
A grandson, Sir Walter of Buccleuch, was also Warden of the West Marches,
and otherwise celebrated in Border song as making at the head of his clan a
successful sally on Carlisle Castle for the rescue of "Kinmont Willie," seized
and confined by Lord Scrope on a certain day of truce in the spring of 1596.
And he asks in anger —

Have they taken him, Kinmont Willie,

Against the truce o* Border tide;
And forgotten that the bauld Buccleuch

Is keeper here on the Scottish side?

Kinmont "Willie's" residence became in modern times the Annandale seat
of the Queensberry family. After the succession of James to the English throne,
Buccleuch was very active in quieting the Borders, and, to accomplish this end,
raised a regiment of resolute soldiers, whom he afterwards carried over to fight
against the Spaniards in Holland. Having obtained considerable renown in
the Netherlands as a commander under Prince Maurice, he was raised to the
Peerage of Scotland, with the title of Lord Scott of Buccleuch. He married
a daughter of the old foe of his house. Sir William Kerr of Cessford, sister of
Robert, first Earl of Roxburghe, and died in 161 1. An Earldom of Buccleuch,

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

with the secondary title of Eskdale, came into the family with Lord Walter (iSrp),
whose son Francis acquired Dalkeith from the Morton family, 1643.

Of two daughters bom to Earl Francis by his wife of the house of Rothes,
the eldest, Mary, became Countess of Buccleuch in her own right; but, dying
without any issue from her marriage with Scott of Harden, she was succeeded
in the family honours and wide estates by that amiable Countess Anne, who,
as the wife of the illegitimate but favourite son of Charles If. —

Had known adversity,

Though born in such a high degree;
In pride of place, in beauty's bloom,
Had wept o'er Monmouth'^ bloody tomb.

On his marriage in 1663, the Buccleuch dignity was elevated to a Dukedom,
and the name of Scott assumed by Monmouth. After the execution of her
husband for levying war against his half-brother, King James (1685), Duchess
Anne resided for the most part at Dalkeith or in the stately tower of Newark
on Yarrow, now a romantic ruin, but included within the beautiful grounds
surrounding Bowhill, where, in April, 1S84, Duke Walter breathed his last. It
was at Newark, the reader may remember, the " Last Minstrel " sung his " Lay "
to please the hospitable lady and her high-born dames. Wordsworth refers to
the place as —

That region left, the vale unfolds

Rich groves of lofiy stalute,
With Yarrow winding through the pomp

or cultivated nature.
And, rising from these lofty groves,

Behold a ruin hoary —
The shattered front of Newnrlt's tower,

Renowned in Border story.

To the last, even after she had made a second alliance with Charles, third Lord
CoTQwallis, the Duchess kept up the style of a Princess of the blood, being
ser\ed by pages on bended knee, and under a rich canopy, which none were
permitted to approach without permission. To prevent the Scotch titles becoming

THE SCOTTS OF BUCCLEUCH. 333

extinct at her death, the Duchess resigned them into the hands of the Crown,
and obtained, 1687, a regrant to herself, and after her death to James, Earl
of Dalkeith, her eldest son, and his heirs-male and taillie. The second son
became Earl of Deloraine. The Duchess survived till 6th February, 1732,
when she was a little over eighty years of age. The Earl of Dalkeith having
predeceased his mother, 1705, the succession on her death opened up to his
eldest son, Francis, bom 1695. In 1743 he obtained by Act of Parliament
a restoration of the Earldom of Doncaster and Barony of Scott of Tynedale,
two of the English honours of his grandfather, the Duke of Monmouth. He
married, first, 5th April, 1720, Lady Jane Douglas, eldest daughter of James,
second Duke of Queensberry, by whom he had a son, Francis, Earl of Dalkeith,
who predeceased his father, and, secondly. Miss Powell, but by that lady had
no issue. On the approach of the Pretender to Edinburgh in 1745, Duke
Francis sent his tenantry to assist in defending the City. He died 22nd April,
175 1. His son, the Earl of Dalkeith, had married Caroline, eldest daughter
and co-heiress of the famous John, Duke of Argyll and Greenwich, by whom
he had four sons and two daughters. His eldest son, Henry, succeeded his
grandfather. One of the daughters, Frances, married to Archibald, Lord Douglas,
was a posthumous child.

Henry, third Duke of Buccleuch, was bom 13th September, 1746. In
March, 1764, his Grace and his brother, the Hon. Campbell Scott, set out on
their travels, accompanied by the learned Dr. Adam Smith. The brother
was assassinated on the streets of Paris on the i8th October, 1766, in his
nineteenth year. His remains were brought home by the Duke, and deposited
in the family vault at Dalkeith. On the commencement of the war with France
in 1778, Duke Francis raised a regiment of Fcncibles chiefly among his own
tenantry, and, by his attention to the wants of the service, secured the affection
and esteem of all under his command. He married, in 1767, Elizabeth, daughter
of the last Duke of Montague, by whom he had three sons and four daughters,
viz., George, who died in infancy; Charles William Henry, Earl of Dalkeith;

334 THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

Henry James Montague, who succeeded as Lord Montague in 1790, on the
death of his grandfather, the Duke of Montague, but died in 1845, without
male issue, when the title became extinct; Mar}', married to James George,
Ear! of Courtown; Elizabeth, to the Earl of Home; Caroline, to the Marquis
of Queensberry; and Harriet, to the sixth Marquis of Lothian. On the decease
of William, fotirth Duke of Queensberry, " Old Q," without issue, 33rd December,
tSio, Duke Henry succeeded to the Duiccdom and to considerable estates in
Dumfriesshire. It was to the influence of this Duke of Buccleuch that Sir
Walter Scott was indebted for his appointment in December, 1799, to the office
of Sheriff-depute of Selkirkshire, and afterwards in 1806 to that of one of the
principal clerks of the Court of Session. His Grace died nth January, 1811.

His eldest son, Charles William Henry, fourth Duke of Buccleuch, and sixth
of Queensberry, was bom a4th May, 1772, and in 1807 was summoned to the
House of Peers as Baron Tynedale. He married, 23rd March, 1795, Harriet
Katherine Townshcnd, youngest daughter of Thomas, first Viscount Sydney.
Her Grace died in 1814. There is a touching correspondence on this event
between the Duke and Sir Walter Scott in Lockhart's life of the poet. The
Duke was a constant friend and correspondent of Sir Walter, and at an early
period of money difficulties gave his name as security for a loan of ^£'4,000.
He also bestowed on the Ettrick Shepherd the life-rent of the farm of Altrive,
on (he favourite braes of Yarrow. By his Duchess he had two sons, Walter
Francis, Earl of Dalkeith, wiio succeeded him as fifth Duke of Buccleuch, and
died April, 1S84, as before mentioned, in his forest retreat at Bowhill, aged
seventy-eight; Lord John Douglas Scott, an officer in the army, and sue
daughters. Earl Charles died at Lisbon, 20th April, 1819, The present Peer,
William Henry Walter, better known as Earl of Dalkeith, is the sixth Duke.

ST. COLUMBA. 335

ST. COLUMBA.

"Altus Prosator^ Vetustus Dienim, et Ingenitus'' — so opens that magnificent
hymn which the unbroken tradition of thirteen centuries connects with the name
of Columba, but of engrossing interest otherwise, in so far as it indicates modes
of thought prevailing in the early Church at a time when creeds, as we now have
them, were barely formulated. Athanasian only in so far as it expresses opinions
known to have been valiantly defended by Athanasius, certain prominent doctrines
embodied in the famous creed were expressed in language almost identical to
the brethren of lona by the Apostle of our Western Highlands. "Patris, et
Filii, et Spiritus Sancti una est Divinitas sequalis gloria, co-setema Majestas,"
declares the creed; so in like manner Columba — "Cui est Unigenitus Christus
et Sanctus Spiritus co-aetemus in glori& Deitatis perpetua." Subject or not
subject to Rome, here is belief, expressed at least as early as the Council of Nice
(A.D. 325), set out in language almost identical with what the Church put into
form some centuries later — ^probably not far removed from Columba's own day.
Welcome on its own account at any time, the student of our early poetry will
find a new interest added to the h3m[in through the care and scholarship of its
latest editor. Naturally incUned to such studies, and frequently engaged in them;
it occurred to the present Marquis of Bute that there were many persons who
would hail with pleasure a new handy edition of the "Altus" of St. Columba,
as well from veneration for the memory of the author as from appreciation of the
intrinsic merits of the work, and of its interest as a specimen of ancient Celtic
Latin poetry. The text has been taken from the edition, unhappily uncompleted,
of the "Liber Hymnorum," prepared for the Irish Archaeological and Celtic
Society by the late Dr. Todd, author of the well-known " Memou: and Mission
of St Patrick." To the words of the poem the noble Marquis has added a
most useful kmd of double commentary. First, a paraphrastic translation into

336

THE WEST COUNTR Y JN HISTOR Y.

English prose; and, secondly, a series of notes designed chiefly, though not
exclusively, to assist the reader by placing before him the passages of Scripture
cited or alluded to in the text, so far at least as could be done for the work of
a writer who was using a Latin version other than the present. The hymn itself
is not so widely known as to make a brief account of it altogether unnecessary.
After the first chapter or section, in which, as may be seen from the extracts
above, God is praised as He is in Himself, the thought of the author of the
" Altus" passes through three phases, in each of which he praises the Most High
for a special class of His works. The first is dedicated to the angelic world,
the second to tlie material cosmogony as understood by the writer, and the third
to the things which shall or may be hereafter. Each section comprises seven
chapters of twelve short lines each, with the exception of the prelude, which
runs out two lines extra. Here occurs the phrase noted before, "Ingenitus,"
" Unbegotten," yet natural or strictly in the course of nature. The editor
properly explains that no such expression is found in Scripture; but in the
Athanasian creed there is "Pateramullo est factus, nee creatus, nee genitus"^
"The Father is made of none, neither created, nor begotten;" and the word also
occurs in such Church Offices as the Trinity Sunday Antiplion at " Magnificat,"
in the Roman Breviary "Te Deum Patrem Ingenitum" — "Father unl>cgottcn,"
"Vetustus dierum" is evidently the "Antiquus dierum," or "Ancient of Days" of
Dan. vil 9, 13, and aa. The section relating to the angelic hosts partly repeats
views set out at greater length in that division of Adamnan's life of the Saint
known as "The Apparition of Angels," from which the reader gathers that in
Ireland, especially in and around his favourite Deny, as well as in lona, legions
of these ministering spirits were seen and conversed with. Montalembert makes
repeated reference in his life of the Saint to the encouragement and aid derived
through the angelic attendants—" Sed haberat c^Iestia in quibus privilcgia
ostenderet magnopere possibili fatimine" — "Heavenly creatures wherein to
graces as great as any utterance can express." The chapter on " Heaven,
ifl given at length as a fair specimen of this early Celtic poem, would seem,

.erivcd

vilcgia ^^^H
show ^^^^^k

ST. COLUMBA. 337

the Marquis writes, to imply that Columba regarded as identical that Paradise
in which God placed Adam with that Paradise which is the home of the saints,
still existing in some part of the world —

Plantatum a procemio
Paradisum a Domino
Legimus in primordio
Genesis nobiiissimo ;
Cujus exfonte flumina
Quataor sunt manantia;

Cujus et situm florido
Lignnm vitae est medio,
Cujus non cadunt folia
Gentibus salutifera ;
Cujus incnarrabiles
Deliciae ac fertiles.

The first eight lines are, of course, founded upon Genesis ii. 6-14; the next
on Rev. xxii. 2, where mention is made of the tree of life and the leaves " for
the healing of the nations;'' and the last two probably on Ezek. xxviii. 13 —
"In deliciis Paradisi Dei fuisti" — "Thou hast been amidst the pleasures of the
garden of God;" or, as our authorised version has it, "Eden, the garden of
God/* With the chapter commencing "Quis ad condictum Domini Montem
conscendit Sinai?" the poet passes to the third and last part of his work.
Having described the work of God in the creation and preservation of angels
and men, of the intellectual and material components of this planet and her
sphere (which to him was nearly, if not quite, the same thing as the Kosmos),
he projects thought forward to the time when this planet will be changed Then,
continues his editor, a pause is made for a moment to consider that there has
been but one whose drawing near to God, when revealing Himself in terror,
can ever have enabled him to know, however imperfectly, what the terror of
the end will be. To follow this chapter with wisdom, it is therefore necessary
to read in connection Exodus xix., particularly from ver. 16 — "Et ecce caeperunt
audiri tonitrua ac micare fulgiu^ et nubes densissima operire montem, clangorque
buccinae vehementius perstrepebat " — "And behold the thunders began to be
heard," &c. In this portion of the poem the Marquis naturally detects a certain
inclination to dwell upon the terrible, recalling so far that element in Columba's
character which sometimes cast shadows on the brightness of bis life, and

22

338

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

infused with a certain awe the veneration which surrounded his memory after
death. When King Dermot, sitting enthroned on Tara, gave judgment against
him in the dispute concerning the O'Donnell Psalter, which had been transcribed
with his own hand, Columba exclaimed in wrath, " I shall tell my brethren
and my kinsfolk how the rights of the Church have been violated in my person,
and the wrong shall be wiped out in blood. My humiliation shall be followed
by yours in the day of battle. Cursed be he who does evil. The thing which
he sees not comes upon him, and the thing which he sees vanishes from his
grasp." Columba afterwards found a friend in St. Brandan, of Bute, who,
having seen the column of fire which went before Columba and the angels
walking by his side, besought his brethren at Teilte to revoke the sentence
passed on one thus manifestly singled out for some high purpose. But Columba
by that time was getting disquieted in conscience. He had, it is said, begun to
doubt, not that victories had been won by his prayers, but whether he had been
right in applying so potent an engine to the discomfiture of mortal adversaries,
"I beseech you," be said to a holy monk named Abban, "to pray for the men
who have been slain in the wars waged by me for the honour of the Church.
I know that if you intercede they will obtain mercy, and the angel wiih whom
you daily converse will reveal to you the will of God concerning them." The
monk, prompted by a feeling of modesty, long refused his request At length
he prayed, and when his prayer was ended, the angel gave him the assurance
that all should be admitted to the bliss of heaven. Dr. Reeves interprets the
piece commencing " Causa quare voluil Deum laudare," as a prayer to be
forgiven for three battles he had occasioned in Ireland. On the whole, the
Marquis judges the intrinsic merits of the " Alius " to be very great, especially
in these latter and more imaginative chapters, some of which he thinks would
not suffer by comparison with even the famous "Dies Irae," It is by these,
indeed, he hopes the poem may commend itself to many who may not have
been aware of its existence, or may not have had no opportunity of consulting it
in a convenient form. As the editor has not judged it necessary to refer to the

CUNNINGHAM. 339

different legends regarding the composition of the "Altus," or the supernatural
advantages claimed for its recitation, it may interest readers who turn over its
pages for the first time to be reminded of its connection with Pope Gregory the
Great, an ancient tradition fixing its composition at lona in acknowledgment of
gifts sent to the monastery by his Holiness, who is further said to have listened
to its recitation, standing, out of respect for the author,, whom he knew not only
as a great missionary, but as possessed also of rare gifts in poetry and oratory,
with which he adorned his long, adventurous, and self-denying life.

CUNNINGHAM.

The work done by the Maitland Club in its day was so thorough, varied, and
scholarly that high expectations are naturally raised when a new volume is
submitted as practically one of the series, and prepared by a member with a view
to presentation when the club was in its palmiest days. Nor is it the least praise
due Mr. Dobie's "Pont" to say that it is entitled to take its place beside some
of the most useful volumes of the series. We miss indeed the old familiar title-
page, and also the roll of members so suggestive of the pleasant weaknesses
incident to a taste for tall folios and scarce quartos. But in other respects — in
its printing and binding, the compact yet clear page, a margin broad enough to
be agreeable to the eye, yet avoiding the error of unseemly waste, and the time-
honoured boarding — all tend to commend it to members as a fit addition to a
series of works not more remarkable for good taste than solid learning. To
readers composing a far wider circle it will be found an enticing addition to the
library of the working student or the topographical collector. Mr. Dobie, sen.,
well known as a sound authority on certain West Country pedigrees, commenced
his labours on "Pont" in 1825. It was afterwards repeatedly referred to in

34°

THE WEST CO UNTR Y IN HISTOR V.

" Mailland" Reports as a coniribution in preparation, but the sudden death of
the annotalor in 1853 prevenled the fulfilment of his design when on the eve of
completion. Fullarton's "yXccount of Cunningham," issued nearly twenty years
since, went over the same ground with, it is said, a rather free use of the result
of Mr. Dobie's inquiries. The MS., however, was preserved with fair care; and
oa the return to this country of Mr, J. S, Dobie, jun., in 1870, the present
publication was undertaken. AVhile the notes and illustrations of the annotator
remain intact the latest editor has endeavoured to supplement his notices of
places and families where they appeared deficient, and, what was equally esseniial,
has brought down the information 10 quite a recent date. Of Pont himself a
tt-ord or two is necessary. A son of Robert, minister of Edinburgh AV'est Church,
Timothy matriculated in SL Leonard's College, St Andrews, in 1579-80, and
from i6ot to 1608 was minister of the parish of Dunnet, in Caithness. His
lasle, however, lay in mathematics and kindred studies, and he is said to have
been the first projector of an atlas in Scotland. Having given up his parochial
charge, Pont personally surveyed all the counties and isles of Scotland, and
made drawings of such monuments of antiquity as tended to illustrate his descrip-
tive notes. The year of his death has not been ascertained with certainly, but
Font's papers arc known to have been placed under the charge of Gordon of
Slraloch, himself an eminent geographer and antiquary, At the instance of
Charles I. these papers were afterwards of great service to the Blaeus of
Amsterdam in the publication of that portion of their great work, " Geographia
Blaviana," relating to Scotland. The preface mentions the fifth part as a child
of which the parents were Pont and Gordon and the nurse Sir John Scot of
ScotstarveL The map of Cunningham given in Blaeu's work has been reproduced
in the original size for Mr. Dobie'a volume-
Cunningham, famous in rhyme for its corn and bere, would seem to have
been the most complete of Font's surveys. He appears to have gone over the
district with leisure, as he enumerates about 350 places. He omits, indeed, fev
of any importance, but is occasionally inaccurate in fixing the exact locality- J

CUNNINGHAM. 34i

Making up, as readers are aware, with Carrick and Kyle, the more modem
electoral division of North and South Ayrshire, Cunningham itself may be best
realised under three geographical divisions. The first or north part bending
westward to the Firth on one side, and marching with a large portion of South
Renfrewshire on the other; the second lower to the south-east, comprehending
the parishes of Stewarton and Dunlop; and the third to the lands on the banks
of the Irvine, which separates the northern division from Kyle — ^lands described
by Pont as "fertill and full of profitt," and so populous in his day that "at the
ringing of a bell in the night a few houres thcr has beine seen conveine 3000
men weill horsed and armed." Mr. Dobie's work has been so arranged as to do
the utmost possible justice to this interesting tract of country. Following an
editorial note by the editor, and a brief introduction by the annotator, Font's notes
are given in a continuous form precisely as they appear in the Balfour MS.,
transcribed by the late Professor Cosmo Innes. These notes are again repeated,
followed in each separate instance by such additions, corrections, and explana-
tions as the researches of Mr. James Dobie had brought to light in his day, this
new matter making up by far the larger portion of the volume. Regarding many
places curtly dismissed by Pont in a word or two new information is presented,
at once curious, minute, and interesting. Beith, for example, mentioned by the
old topographer simply as "a parochiall church situated neir the laick of
Kilbumy," is made to reveal quite a history of Scottish provincial life during
the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. " Kilbumy Castle, a fair bulding weill
planted, the heritage of Johne Craufurd, laird thereof," introduces the reader to
the Gamock family, and, as might be expected from Mr. Dobie, to the desperate
claim of succession set up in 1810 by the so-called John Lindsay Craufurd. In
connection with the Church of Kilbirnie a lengthy notice is given of that
Captain Thomas Crawford concerned in the capture of Dumbarton Castle, 1571,
whose monument is still conspicuous among the humbler memorials scattered
round the churchyard. Cunninghamhead, "a stronge old dunion seatted on
ye brioke of ye River Annock veill planted," is followed by a history of lairds,

343

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

eminent some of theco in the cause of the Reformation, and others in the
Revolution Settlement. Wodrow gives an anecdote of Sir William of the last-
mentioned period. In 1695 he had occasion to obtain an audience of
the King and Queen in presence of the favourite Portland: — "The King
(writes the minister of Eastwood) cast his eye on Sir William, and said,
Eoe as he heard him, to Porlknd, I know Sir William is a Scotsman,
but, pray, from what part of Scotland is he ? Portland answered, Sir,
he is a West-country gentleman. The King, looking to him, touched
his nose with his finger, and, smiling, said. Sir William, I warrant you, is a
great Whig; and went out to his coach. Portland on going out said, Sir
William, yon was as much as if the King had called you his sweetheart."
Glengamock has been identified by some as the residence of that HardykDUte
referred to in Lady Wardlaw's famous ballad. Rowallan, "a stronge ancient
dwelling belonging to ye surname of Moore, weill neir 400 yeirs. With them
K, Rob. and allayed," opens up t!ie history of a family too proud to claim descent
from kings, because kings had come from them, Elizabetli, wife of Robert II.,
being a daughter of Sir Adam Mure by Joanna, daughter of Sir Hugh Dennistoun
of Dennistoun. Nor is Caldwell, with its classic associations, quite forgot,
although it happens to be a little beyond the boundary of North Ayrshire. GiSec
Castle, a heritage of the almost Royal house of Douglas of Liddisdale, natm-ally
suggests many details concerning the resident branch of Montgomeries to whom
the estate fell "in days when good King Robert rang." Francis, one of the
representatives for Ayrshire in the Union Parliament, was sufficiently prominent
to be obnoxious to the satirists of the day, and is described in certain coarse
pasquils which the Jacobites were not ashamed to circulate as "ambling like
any paced horse;" another shares with him the unhappy distinction, "For rebellion
engrained you may each bear the bell." The Union was a sore subject in
other places besides Cunningham. In his life of Peden, Patrick Walker, "pack-
man of Bristo Port," mentions that one of the evil consequences of that
backsliding step was the mingling of ourselves with a people who, among other

A

LEADHILLS AND WANLOCK. 343

abominations indulged in^ trained their children to say Papa and Mamma instead
of Father and Mother^ which custom the author deprecated as one of the causes
of God's wrath to Scotland, evidenced in his day by the prevalence of burning
fevers and agues previously unknown. With Kilwinning Mr. Dobie appears
to have taken special pains, one view being given of the ancient doorway,
and another, presented by the Earl of Eglinton, of the somewhat dull, modem
church, but introducing effectively the remaining gable of the Abbey south transept.
The letterpress presents as fair a history of this important foundation as it is
possible to prepare in the absence of the Abbey Cartularly, lost apparently since
Font's time. Records connected with the Lodge of Mother Kilwinning are
not known to exist of earlier date than 1642. A French poem somewhat vaguely
refers to James Lord Stewart as receiving into his Lodge at Kilwinning the Earls
of Gloucester and Ulster. The Abbey was then ruled by Abbot William, who
sat in the Parliament held at Brigham in 1289. Ecclesiastical records connected
with the Presbytery of Irvine do not exist of older date than 1646, and those
of the Regality Court of Kilwinning, now in the General Register House,
Edinburgh, commence a few years later.

LEADHILLS AND WANLOCK.

Time redresses grievances in its own way, all the fuller in appearance sometimes
because redress comes in an unexpected form. Between forty and fifty years
since, when the Disruption controversy was embittering the social life of Scotland,
few noblemen were held up to greater obloquy than the late Duke of Buccleuch.
He not only insisted that the Established Church was the real Church of the
people, but refused to recognise the Seceders even to the extent of permitting
them to build places of worship on his land. For Thomhill a door of relief
was opened by the magnanimity of old Janet Eraser of Virginhall. To Free

344

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

Church miners in the dreary uplands of Wanlock no tenderness was shown.
The land quaintly described in old writings as "God's Treasure House in
Scotland " was to them a house of bondage. The gold of that Havilah might
be good, yet it was lo ihera mere earthly treasures which thieves might break
through and steal, and of small account compared with the spiritual riches
dispensed under the most unton-ard circumstances generally by their own pastor,
Mr. Hastings, but occasionally by divines so distinguished as Chalmers, Candlish,
and Guthrie. Time has now changed all this. Under the above title an account
of this auriferous region, written by the successor of Mr. Hastings, was respectfully
dedicated to the same Duke of Buccleuch, as "The generous patron of Art,
Literature, and Agriculture, whose benevolence as a landlord is universally
esteemed (even by the men of '43), and who, with the Duke of Argyll, gave a
noble example to the proprietors of Scotland in the gift of the patronage of his
numerous parishes to the people, without compensation." Ciiy charges like
Maitland Street need not, therefore, be looked upon as the only indications
going of changes in thought and feeling. The greater part of Mr. Portcous'
interesting little volume appeared from time to time in the columns of the
"Dumfries Courier;" but, it being deemed advisable to gather the detached
papers into a more permanent and accessible form, the opportunity was taken
of extending what was mainly an account of the parish of Sanquhar so as to
include Crawforii, Crawfordjohn, Leadhills, and Wanlockhead, with some notice
of the geology and mineralogy of the district, extended information as to the gold,
silver, and lead workings, details as to properties, owners, and workmen, and
some useful facts connected with the Church history of the district from the
Reformation to the present time. Tlie first chapter describes "The House" —
its geological formation, pasturage, streams, and temperature. The second
commences with "The Treasures," and the men who have wrought in gold, silver,
and lead, from Bcvis Bulmer, in the sixteenth century, to the exceptionally
high-class mining population for which Leadhills is famous in our own day. Of
"The Treasure House" itself, or earthen vessel, not much can be said, so far

LEADHILLSAND WANLOCK. 345

as outside beauty is concerned After travelling through the district, Dr.
John Brown describes Leadhills as a dreary, unexpected little town, but, like
all natives of such forlorn, out-of-the-world places, the people cannot understand
how any one can be happy anywhere else; and when any of them leaves the
wild unlovely pbce they accompany him with wondering pity to the outskirts
of their paradise, and never cease to implore and expect his return for good.
They are known to be thoughtful and solid, make good use of an extensive
library, gathered mostly by themselves, and are unwearied in their attendance
on ordinances. This deep religious feeling has no doubt received a colouring
from the memory of many Covenanting struggles floating about the district.
Here in an especial manner was the preaching ground of Cargill and Renwick,
of Alexander Peden and Richard Cameron. Only a few years since, "Black
Joan frae Crichton peel, a carline stoor and grim," celebrated the bi-centenary
of the famous Sanquhar Declaration, in terms of which first Cameron and then
Renwick denounced and disowned Charles 11. as a tyrant and persecutor.
Memories of a more pleasant nature are called up by the remembrance that
within a year after Renwick had closed the long line of those who in Scotland
sealed their testimony with blood, Allan Ramsay, the poet, was born at
Leadhills. His father was manager of the mines, and there did the author of
"The Gentle Shepherd" continue to live till 1701, when he removed to
Edinburgh to commence, at the age of fifteen, an apprenticeship to a wig-maker.
Another literary memory is associated with Wanlockhead. A few years after
Ramsa/s death, and while residing with his sister, Mrs. Telfer, in what is now
known as the Duke's shooting lodge, Smollett wrote his inimitable " Humphrey.
Clinker," a novel, we regret to say, of which Mr. Portcous thinks but lightly.
Tabetha and Lismahago, Matthew Bramble and Jerry Melford, might have
excited the humour of even a Free Church divine in the bleak solitudes of
Wanlock. Among other names of some distinction associated with the district
are James Taylor, John Hutcheson, and William Symington, all concerned in
the early experiments of steam navigation undertaken by Patrick Miller of

34« THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

Dalswinton. More remarkable, in some respects than even scientific reputation,
was the fame acquired by the grandfather of the Taylor above-mentioned as the
very oldest person who must ever have lived in those parts. Bom in 1637,
the year of Jenny Geddcs' exploit in St, Giles', and when Charles I, was yet
King, a tombstone in LeadhiUs Churchyard records that John Taylor, miner,
died there "at the remarkable age of 137 years." To "lie like a tombstone"
is proverbial; and to prevent disappointment on the part of those curious in
such inquiries, it may be as well to mention that there does not appear to
be much other than tombstone evidence for the remarkable longevity of John
Taylor. The succession of owners and lessees is described with much exactness
by Mr. Porteous. In 1562 a Royal grant was made to John Achisone and
John Alsowand, burgesses of Edinburgh, "to wark and wyn in the lead mynes
of Glengonar and Wenlock," and to transport the ore to Flanders; that the
silver may be there extracted, paying to the Queen "fortie-five unce of uter
fyne silver for every thousand stane wicht of lead." Thomas Foulis, goldsmith
in Edinburgh, succeeded; and his niece, Ann, marrying her advocate, James
Hope, after a successful defence of her claims, the I-eadhills workings passed
to the Hopetoun family, who have held them ever since. Last year, the company
working the mine raised about i,30o tons, or 24,000 bars of i cwt. each, selling
for the most part at £^21 per ton. The lordship is one-ninth to the Earl of
Hopetoun, with fixed rent of ^5^' '^^^■' '^^ company having all minerals, gold,
silver, and lead at its command. The Wanlock mines are wrought by a manager
in the interest of the Duke of Iluccleuch. Miners work live days a week, and
earn on an average all the year round fully £^^ per month. Mr. Porteous' book
is illustrated by a geological map of the district known as the "Treasure House,"
and a few engravings by typographic process from the author's drawings. A
ghastly view is also presented of what he calls the "Tree of the Christian
Church in conflict with Papa! fire," and a perplexing diagram of the divisions
and unions in the Church of Scotland since the Reformation. This last puzzle
is described as elucidated in the author's earlier work on the invincible position

THE FULLARTONS OF FULLARTON. 347

of Presbytery, concerning which he holds strong Covenanting principles, and
quotes approvingly: —

The braid blue bannet still may deed the pows in green Glencaim,
The laverock wake the mavis yet in howes o' auld Carsphaim;
But waes me for the Covenant psalm that echoed aince amang
The wastlin' hames o' Scotland, mair sweet than mavis sang.

For noo nae mair amang the glens, nae mair amang the hills,
The simple strains o' Covenant times the moorland shepherd trills;
Yell wander far afore ye hear the evening psalm ava;
The bonnie flowers o' Scotland's faith are nearly wede awa.

THE FULLARTONS OF FULLARTON, &c.

Tradition of a kind fixes Fullartons in Ayrshire as early as the beginning of
the twelfth century^ the first possessor of the barony so named, near Irvine, being
probably a follower of Walter, son of Alan, ancestor of the High Stewards who
obtained from the Crown grants of broad lands in the counties of Ayr and
Renfrew when the family left their Shropshire home to settle at the Court of
David in the North. The name has been set down, although not without
challenge, as derived from one of two employments — a "Fuller," or cleaner of
woollen cloth, and a " Fowler," an important hereditary officer in the Royal household
largely concerned in supplying the king's table. Nisbet, in his " Heraldry," seems
to have prefeired the last-mentioned derivation, and appeals for corroboration to
a certain charter in the Haddington collection; later writers rely with equal
confidence on an ancient washing-green or "bleachfield" on the south-west
bank of the Irvine over against the Royal burgh. The industrial origin of the
name is further accounted for by the circumstance that "Fowl" in Saxon is
"fugel," " fugel-bono," a fowl-killer. Adam, son of Alam, received a charter of

348 THE WEST COUNTRY m HISTORY,

FuUarton lands from James, High Steward of Scotland, about the close of the
thirteenth, or early in the fourteenth century. A son, Reginald, who was also
iofeft into the family lands, accompanied David II. to Durham, and being
taken prisoner with the king in that disastrous bnicle, was one of twenty hostages
left in England for payment of his Sovereign's ransom. Succeeding Fullartons
were — Rankin, first of the Drcghom branch; George, designed of Corsbie; and
at a long interval of time, James and Robert, brothers, the last thought to have
founded the Bartonholme family in the early years of the seventeenth century.
John, second son of the above James, served with honour in the French and
Gertnan wars, and acquired late in life the estate of Dudwick, Aberdeenshire,
which remained in his family till the close of the eighteenth century-, when it
passed to the family of Udny of Udny. A third son, William, became minister
of St. Quivox, Ayrshire, and ancestor of two branches of this prolific house —
the Fullartons of Thiyberg Park, Yorkshire, and of Carstairs, Lanarkshire, one
of whose successors sold the property to the late Henry Monteiih, Esq, James
FuUarton's eldest son, also James, was Sheriff of the Caillary of Kyle-Stewarl,
and Commissioner for the shire of Ayr in the Scots Parliament of 1643. having
also the distinction of being sharply fined by both Charles and Cromwell for his
zeal in the Presbyterian cause. He died in 1667, leaving by his wife, of the
house of Cunninghamhead, three sons and three dauglilers. The eldest of the
famij}', William, was apprehended on suspicion of being concerned in the affair
of Bothwell Pridge, but so far kept the fortunes of his family together as to
obtain a charter from Queen Anne C'7°7)i constituting Troon a free port and
harbour, and erecting the town of Fullarlon into a burgli of barony. On the
death of William, without issue, tlie succession in the estate opened up to his
next surviving brother, George of Dreghom, fatlier of Patrick, who practised as
an advocate at the Scottish bar, and predeceased his father, 1709. George's
grandson, William, buih FuUarton House, and otherwise greatly improved the
family estate. He died in 1758, leaving an only son, who became the well-
known Colonel Fultailon, but was little over four years of age when his father died.

THE l^ULLARTONS OF FULLARTON. 349

Colonel Fullarton received his academical education in Edinburgh, and at
the age of sixteen was placed under the care of Patrick Brydone, whom he
accompanied in his once popular Tour over Sicily and Malta. In 1775 (as
mentioned in the "Scottish Nation," young Fullarton was appointed principal
secretary to the embassy of Lord Stormont at the court of France. In 1780
he proposed to government the plan of an expedition to Mexico against the
Spaniards, which being approved of, he raised the 98th regiment of infantrj',
of which he was appointed colonel, though not previously in the army. He and
Lieutenant-colonel, then Major Mackenzie Humberstone, raised two thousand men,
at their own expense, with unusual despatch, and involved their estates to a very
large amount, by preparations for the expedition. The unexpected breaking out
of the Dutch war, however, caused it, instead of Mexico, to be sent upon an
attack on the Cape of Good Hope; and ultimately it was employed in the war
in India. Colonel Fullarton, with the troops under his command, served at
first on board Commodore Johnston's fleet, but in May, 1783, he received the
command of the southern army on the coast of Coromandel, a force consisting
of upwards of thirteen thousand men. His campaigns and operations with this
army, in that and the succeeding year, were attended with a rapidity and
brilliancy of success previously altogether unknown in that country. On his
return to Europe, Colonel Fullarton published "A View of English Interests in
India," together with an account of his campaigns there, 1782-84. He was
frequently a member of the House of Commons, and was twice returned for
his native county of Ayr. In 1791 he was ser\ed heir of line and representative
of the family of Cunninghame of Cunninghamehead, baronet (See vol i., p. 746.)

At the breaking out of the French war in 1793, he raised the 23rd light
dragoons, then called '' Fullarton's light horse," and also the loist regiment of
infantry. The same year, at the request of the President of the Board of
Agriculture, he wrote " An Account of the Agriculture of the County of Ayr,
with Observations on the Means of its Improvement," which was printed and
generally circulated. In 1801 he also wrote an essay, addressed to the Board

35°

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

of Agriculture in England, on the best method of turning grass lands into tillage.
The same year he was appointed governor of the island of Trinidad, but returned
home in 1803, when he preferred a charge against Sir Thomas Picton, the former
governor, for authorising torture on a female slave, which led to the trial of
that gallant officer. Colonel FuUarlon died at London, 13th February, 1808,
at the age of 54, and was interred within the church of Isleworth, where a
marble monument, with an appropriate latin inscription, was soon after erected
to his memory. The Fullarton estates at Irvine was purchased in 1805 by
William Henry, fourth Duke of Portland, and still remains in possession of
that family.

The family of Fullarton held, from an early period, lands in the Island of
Arran. A cadet of the principal family, said to have sprung from a second
son, named Lewis, settled in the island, and his descendants have always been
distinguished by the patronymic of M'Lewie, or M'Lewis. When Robert the
Bruce landed in Brodick Bay, whilst upon his peregrinations through the Western
Highlands, one of the Fullartons directed him to a place where some of his
adherents had taken shelter, and were employed in making a temporary fort.
For this and other services, the king granted lo Fergus Fullarton a charter,
dated at Arneale Castle, in Cunningham, 29th November, in the second year
of his reign (1307), of the lands of Kilmichael and others, with the hereditary
office of coroner of the bailiedom of Arran, The estate of Kilmichael and
Whitefarland, in the parish of Kilbride, worth about ;^8oo a year, still remains
in possession of the family, the rest of the island being the property of the Duke
of Hamilton. Alexander Fullarton (brother of Lewis Fullarton of Kilmichael
and Whitefarland) married Miss Macduff, Perthshire, whose mother was a
Menzies of Culdares. Charles Fullarton, daughter of Alexander, mairied
Mr. Bowden, father of Menzies James Bowden, Fullarton; Robert Bowden, and
Miss Eliza Bowden, of Newton Place, Glasgow.

The present Menzies of Culdares is thought originally to be a Stewart
whose ancestors assumed the name of Menzies. Old Menzies, the original family,

THE FULLARTONS OF FULLARTON.

351

entailed the estate, having ten sons and three daughters. The lawyer who drew
the deed, said, in joke, "After the ten sons and descendants you might put me
in." This was done, and strange to say, the lawyer's family ultimately got
possession — all the sons of the real laird and descendants having died out.
The Beresfords of Ireland made a move as next male-heirs to dispute the family
succession of the lawyer, but the deed was so clear that they did not push their
claim.

Colonel Fullarton, of the Skeidane family, another officer of high repute in
the Indian Army, and who look a leading part in the overthrow of Tippo Saih,
was some years subsequently taken prisoner in India by a chief of high caste
and great wealth. All overtures and money bribes for the release of the colonel
proved unavailing, but in time his liberty came about in a romantic and re-
markable way. Colonel Fullarton, who was a man of splendid appearance and
perfect manners, and knowing the native language fluently, became quite a
favourite with his captor, so one day this chief took a very beautiful daughter
to see his prisoner; both then parted feeling a mutual and instinctive admiration
for each other, and ere many days passed the "princess" found her way back
to the prisoner's quarters. In lime their attachment for each other became great,
and culminated in a marriage by the rites of her creed ; this secured the colonel's
liberty, when he was soon afterwards married by the rites of his Church. The
lady received a handsome dowry, and both set out for England and Scotland.
On arrival at Leilh they were met by his relatives and friends, and the handsome
couple were carried in slate befitting her rank lo Edinburgh, where, after a short
stay, they proceeded to his property in Aj'rshirc, where both lived long, happily,
and popularly. From this family of Skeldane were also descended the Fullartons
of Bumside, Largs, Overtoun, and Kerrelaw, Ayrshire. This last property is
now possessed by the sister of Mr. Gavin Fullarton, Helensburgh, in life-rent and
in fee to her son, who is heir to the baronetcy now held by Sir Heniy Kingston
James. The original Fullartons were of French origin — (see Scott's "Lord of
the Isles" and Notes}; and, besides their once vast estates in Ayrshire, held lands

35"

THE WEST COUUTKY ly HISTORY.

I

in Arran from the days of the Bruce. To that branch Bruce was much attached.
The Arran estates were entailed by the father of Dr. FuUarton of Ayr, cousin of
Skeldane, whose son, John, a dashing naval officer, long resided in Campbeltown,
having built the house of " Rosemount," near ihe residence of his brother-in-law.
Captain Beatson. Colonel James, the second son, a Knight of Hanover and
Companion of the Balh, married Miss M'Laveriy of Keil, Campbeltown, but
died without issue. Major Archibald, who lost his leg at Salamanca, in
the Peninsula, succeeded when quite an old veteran to the Arran estates, and
the male-heirs of his family predeceasing him, the property passed to his daughter
(Mrs. Bowdcn FuUarton, of Glasgow), by his marriage with Miss Peebles of an
old Glasgow family.

Mrs. Bowden FuUarton, dying in 1S75, was succeeded by her half sister.
Miss Jessie Spottiswoode FuUarton, now heiress of KUmichael, Brodick, and
Whiiefatland, Loch Ranza. It was Colonel James FuUarton, already referred
to, wlio first placed his cousin (by the female side), the present Lord Napier
of Magdala, in [he British Army — a mark of gratitude the gallant field-marshal
has in many ways recognised lo the family. Margaret, daughter of Dr. Lewis
FuUarton, of KUmichael, who died about 1859, was well known and esleenied
in Ayr. Another daugliter, Isabella, was the widow of Dr. Jolm Mackinnon, D.D.,
of Tjree, early in this century and for many years tutor to the Ai^le family.
Their son, Campbell, Inspector General of Hospitals, who took a con-
spicuous part at the siege of Delhi, for which he received the decoration of
the Balh, married Miss Beatson, Campbeltown, and by her left an only son.
Another son, the Honourable Lewis Mackinnon, of the Legislative Assembly,
died at Jamaica in iS3i.

John FuUarton, second son of William of the Carstairs branch, passed
advocate 17th Feb., 1798, when in his ^lxA year, and on i7lh Feb., 1829,
was elevated to the bench in ihe room of Lord Eldin, when he took the judicial
title of Lord FuUerton. He died 3rd Dec, 1S53, about three weeks after
resigning his seat on the bench.

INVERKIP TO WEST KILBRIDE.

INVERKIP TO WEST KILBRIDE.

With a fairly straight road running north to south, of little, if anything, over
twenty miles in length, there is nothing, of course, to prevent a pedestrian in
ordinary " form" from accomplishing in one day the entire distance between
"Auld Kirk" on the Kip and the more southerly parish, named, like its
church, after the pious St. Bridget. But if he desires, as most intelligent
travellers do, to linger over the supreme beauties of the locality through
which he is travelling, and to make himself acquainted at the same time with
even a few of those historic remains associated with stirring scenes in Scottish
history, he must deviate so frequently from the main path as to make a break,
for one night at least, all but necessary. This our friend, who may be presumed
as tramping along the shore road, knapsack on back, will be found, can most
conveniently be done by resting about the centre of the parish lying between
Inverkip and Kilbride, or say in the pleasant watering-place of Inirgs itself.
Here he may profitably spend an odd hour or two of a long summer day
by examining localities easily identified with that famous battle through which,
over six hundred years since, the victorious Alexander HI. freed Scotland onee
and for ever from the tyranny of Northern Sea Kings or Vikings, not unworthily
rqiresented by Haco and his plundering Norsemen from Norway, Denmark,
and Sweden. Even otherwise, a day's leisure would not be misspent among
the richly-wooded glens which open up every here and there eastward, or by
the side of one or other of the many sparkling yet secluded streams which find
their way through the valleys, rushing and leaping with joy till lost in the waters
of the opening Firth. Beautiful as Clyde is admitted to be at all points of its
journey — some io6 miles — to the sea; beautiful when it begins to show itself in
the upland pastoral solitudes of Crawford, when it is winding round the base of
Tinto, or overshadowed by the dark chasm of Cartland, or leaping over huge
Falls like Cora Linn, or winding gently, yet with majesty, among the orchards

354 THE WEST COUNTR Y IN HISTOR V.

and broad meadows and fair woodlands of Lanarkshire — none of llicse features
in the route of our noble river surpasses in beauty what borders its banks as
the river gets lost in the Firth, and the Firth in the sea. Here the attractions
are at once varied, interesting, and informing. Leaving behind us the princely
splendoure of Ardgowan, as already faintly described in these pages (see 119);
and even without troubling ourselves for a moment with the reflection that
Inverkip, as a parish, stretched as far eastward in pre-Refonnation limes as
Greenock, where the Church of St Lawrence stood, there is within little more
than a mile north-east from the parish church the ruins of that old Castle of
Dunrod, famous in the annals of Renfrewshire as the resort of both wizards
and witches, and not very for off— indeed, not quite so far away — an old arch
crossing the Kip bum known as the Roman Bridge, and which, in name at
least, may have been an antiquity when the battle of largs was fought

About a mile south from Inverkip village, the traveller enters the north
or Wemyss portion of Kelly or Bannatyne property, held by that family, it is
thought, for over 300 years. In 1792 the old Kelly property was purchased
by John Wallace, of Cessnock, Ayrshire, one of the leading Glasgow West
India merchants. He built the larger and older part of the present Kelly
mansion within the next year or two, and here he died, 4th June, 1S05, when
the property passed to hia son, Robert Wallace, of Postal Reform fame, to be
afterwards referred to. By various contracts of excambion the original \Vallace
purchase was extended southward beyond Kelly bum to Auchindarroch, and
norlhwatd to Wemyss Bay, the port of Ardgowan, in exchange for the lands of
Finnock conveyed to the then Sir Michael Shaw Stewart. Shortly after entering
Parliament, as iirst member for Greenock, under the Reform Bill of 1832,
Robert Wallace was obliged to part with that Kelly estate which he had done
so much to extend and adorn. The purchaser in the first instance was a Mr.
Alexander, an Australian merchant, but he was able to retain the property only
a few years, when Kelly fell into the hands of Mr. James Scoll, of Dalmonach
Print-works, and the Wemyss portion passed to Charles Wilsons Brown, Glasgow.

INVERKIP TO WEST KILBRIDE. 355

In i860, the Wemysa portion of Kelly was sold for Mr. Brown in two portions,
Wemysa Bay falling to the now venerable (1885) George Bums, Esq., one of
the founders of the great Cunard Steamship Company, who built Wemyss House
on the property from designs by Mr. Salmon, Glasgow, and erected abo the
beautiful Episcopal Church near by, in memory of Mrs. Bums. Wemyss
Caslle property passed to his son, Mr. John Burns, presently (1885) Chairman
and Managing Director of the Cunard Steamship Company (Limited)^a company
which in its early days he did more to develop and consolidate than any other
single person. To Wemyss Castle, as built for Wilsone Brown from designs by
Billings, Mr. John Bums has made important additions, and otherwise rendered
the surrounding grounds a feature of attraction, even to travellers who only see
them at a distance from a Clyde steamer. In 1867, the estate of Kelly proper
was purchased from Mr. Scott by James Young, Esq., of Dunis, F.R.S. and LL.D,,
a chemist of such high repute that he may almost be said to have created the
shale oil trade in this country as well as in America. Rising from but a humble
position as an apprentice cabinetmaker to his father in Gla^ow, Dr. Young first
availed himself of what httle leisure he had in taking lessons at the Andersonian
Institution, where, by assiduity and intelligence, he attracted the attention of
Professor Graham, who first made his young pupil assistant in Glasgow, and
then took him to London, when the Mastership of the Mint opened up to the
older accomplished chemist. After that came a few years' service, first in the
laboratories of Messrs. Muspratt, St. Helens, I,iverpool, and next of Messrs.
Charles Tennent & Co., in Manchester. It was while discharging duly at
this latter place that Dr. Young's attention was drawn by Sir Lyon Playfair
to the subject of oil of high quality flowing from a pit at Alfreton, near
Manchester. The discovery of the Torbanehill mineral was not long in
bringing Young's careful researches to a practical issue. The works were
established at AddiewcU and Bathgate, which prospered so greatly that in
t866, when his patent expired, they were sold to a Limited Company for
^^400,000. When these works were undertaken tlie yearly produce of oil

A

356

THE WEST COUNTRV IN HISTORY.

in Scotland was not more than 6,250,000 gallons. At the dale of his
death {i3lh May, 1883, when Dr. Young was in his 72nd year), the production
liad risen to 15,000,000 gallons, of which the Young Company produced about
one-third. Dr. Young continued on terms of the closest intimacy with Graham,
to whose memory he caused a most effective statue by Brodie, to be set up in
George Square, Gla^ow, besides joining with a young friend, Dr. Angus Smith,
in editing several of his scientific treatises. To Dr. Livingstone Young was also
much attached, unwearied, first in promoting his discoveries, and finally in
ascertaining his sad fate. A model of the hut in which the intrepid traveller
died was erected within the grounds of Kelly by two of the African attendants
who had remained with their kind master to the last

Continuing the shore road southward from Kelly, the next important property
in this part of Cunningham is Skelmorlie, noted in modem times for its excellent
Hydropathic Establishment, but still more famous for that old castle of the
Montgomeries, restored in 1852 by John Graham, Esq. (bom 1805), a pro-
minent Glasgow merchant, renowned in art circles as a munificent judicious
patron, and the happy possessor of a collection of pictures unrivalled in the
West Country, if not in the kingdom, for interest and value. Generous in all
matters connected with art, Mr. Graham may be said to have made his
private gallery public in the best sense of the temi, so that thousands have had
opportunities in this way of studying the finest examples of painters so celebrated
aa Gainsborough, Ary Scheffer, Rosa Bonheur, Wilkie, Turner, and Holman
Hunt A little south, but close at hand, is Bridgend House, also occupied by
Mr. Graham, and the mysterious Serpent Mound which has excited so much
discussion among antiquaries. From this point a walk of about an hour and
a-half lands the traveller in Large, where unending scenes of interest may be
enjoyed, even if he should not have leisure to examine the curious Skelmorlie
aisle and monument, or the graceful memorial set up in honour of the gallant
and learned Sir Thomas M'Dougal Brisbane, whose family patrimony lies to the
notth-eaet of the town. Omitting Keibume, as already noticed (p. 91), Lord

mVERKIP TO WEST KILBRIDE. 357

Glasgow's village of Fairlie, with its castle, glen, and yachting industry, is soon
in sight, as is also Hunlerstone, of high historical repute centuries before anything
was ever heard of its Runic Brooch; and lastly, on a ledge of rock stand-
ing well into the Firth, Portincross, one of the oldest fortresses in Kilbride
parish.

Within West Kilbride parish also, but backward a little from the shore, is
Carlung, purchased in 1877 from the trustees of James A, Anderson, Union
Bank, by the lale James Arthur, Esq. of Uarshaw, near Paisley. When
Mr. Arthur died in the summer of the present year (June 17, 1885), it was felt
that no unnecessary compliment was paid in describing htm as in many respects
one of the moat remarkable men connected with Glasgow enterprise during the
last half-century. Born at Paisley in 1819, he commenced business in a small
way while quite a young man. From the outset prosperity attended all his
efforts, but he was not long contented with the restricted field which
Paisley afforded for his unwearying energy. Removing to Glasgow, he began a
similar business in Argj-le Street under the firm of Arthur & Fraser,
Fraser & Sons, and here also his labours were crowned with growing success. But
it was not until a few years hter, when he founded the firm of Arthur & Company,
that his proper sphere was found. Mr. Arthur had not been many years in
Glasgow when he was discovered to be a man of great sagacity, singular
acuteness and swiftness of judgment Combined with these characteristics were
a mastery of detail and powers of organisation and arrangement rarely to be
found, while, as has been already indicated, his energy and enterprise were
unbounded. All these qualities he brought to bear on the management of the
tiusiness which he now established, and to the building up of which the
remainder of his life was devoted. From comparatively small beginnings it
has grown to be one of the largest, if not the largest, establishments of the kind
in Great Britain. In addition lo a home trade of vast extent, the firm has large
business connections abroad. In South Africt, Australia, New 2^aland, and the
Dominion of Canada, it is directly represented; and its agents are as well known

I

I

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I

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358

THE WEST COUNTRY IN HISTORY.

in each of these colonies as Ihey are over the length and breacUh of the United
Kingdom. In most of these fields of enterprise Mr. Arthur may be said to have
led the way, others following his example, and reaping the benefit of his far-seeing
sagacity. Uesides the gigantic establishment in Queen Street, where almost every
description of merchandise may be found, the firm have extensive factories in
Glasgow, Leeds, and Londonderry. Though assisted by able coadjutors, Mr.
Arthur to the very last took an active personal interest in the management of the
business of which he was the founder, and had daily placed before him, until laid
aside by illness, statements showing the position of the numerous departments into
which it is subdivided. Some years ago the firm was converted into a Limited
Liability Company, but it is imderstood that the membership is confined to Mr.
Arthur's own family and his former partners. In addition to his own business,
Mr, Arthur was largely interested in various other important commercial under-
takings connected with the West of Scotland, He was one of the promoters
and original directors of Young's Paraffin Company, and continued a member
of the board down to the time of his death. He was also chairman of the "Loch
Line" of ships sailing between this country and Australia; and latterly, along with
several leading capitalists in the West of Scotland, he originated the "Clan Line"
of steamers. A good many years ago he purchased the small residential estate of
Barsliaw, near Paisley, and more recently he acfiuired the estate of Carlung,
near West Kilbride, where during a considerable part of the year he resided.
Mr. Arthur was a Liberal in politics, but never took any prominent part in
public business. A member of the Chamber of Commerce, he, on several
occasions, was appointed to the board of Directors, and his counsel in all
matters affecting trade and commerce was highly valued. Mr. Arthur was a
member of the Free Church, but by no means narrow in his sympathies; and,
besides being a liberal supporter of the denomination to which he belonged, gave
largely to all worthy religious and benevolent objects. He left a widow, whose name
is honoured in the town of Paisley, to which she belongs, for the interest she
takes in all good work \ and a family, consisting of four sons and one daughter.

INVERKIP TO WEST KILBRIDE. 359

West Obride parish appears in the ''New Statistical Account" as having
been originally a dependency of the Abbey of Kilwinning, but since the
Reformation considerably altered and extended. In 1650 Southanan and Crosby
were annexed from Largs, and a little later Montfode, Knockewart, and Boydstone
were disjoined from Kilbride for the purpose of extending Ardrossan. Strictly
speaking, the modem parish may be described as made up of the following
seven baronies: — Southanan, the most extensive, and once the property of the
Sempills; Crosby, associated with the Crawfords of Loudoun, Sherifis of Ayr;
Kilbride proper, long held by the Boyd family. Earls of Klilmamock; Ardneill,
or Portincross, also once a Boyd property; Carlung, with DrumiUing, both Church
lands; and Hunterstone. It has often been stated, but the proof is not altogether
satisfactory, that among the distinguished natives of Kilbride parish were Professor
Dr. Robert Simson, of Euclid fame, and General Robert Lord Boyd, Lieut-
Governor of Gibraltar, under Lord Heathfield, during the memorable siege
of 1782. West Kilbride parish is about six miles in length, with an average
breadth of three miles, or an area on the whole of 8,650 acres Scotch measure.
The coast line, including many indentations, between Largs and Ardrossan, may
be set down at from seven to eight miles, for the most part low and sandy, except
at Portincross, where it presents a rocky front, steep and bold.

FINIS.

BELL AKD BAIN, PRINTKES, GLASGOW.

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